L'oreal Brandstorm by Clare Smith

CLARE SMITH BRAND STORM 2013

D E C L A R A T I O N

School of Art & Design I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that I have faithfully observed the terms of the approval in the conduct of this project. This submission is the result of my own work. All help and advice other than that received from tutors has been acknowledged and primary and secondary sources of information have been properly attributed. Should this statement prove to be untrue I recognise the right and duty of the board of examiners to recommend what action should be taken in line with the Universityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s regulations on assessment contained in its handbook. signed:

date: 14th February 2013

3,374 Words Excluding Quotations

CLARE SMITH: N0323821

C O N T E N T S 1. Introduction 2. Methodology 2a. Primary 2b. Secondary 3. Market 3a. Why South East Asia? 3b. The market 4. The Key Players 4a. What are they buying? 4b. Where are they buying? 5. What does the consumer want? 5a. Hair Types 5b. Hair Problems 5c. Regime 5d. Trend

7. The Humid Defence Consumer 7a. Consumer One 7b. Consumer Two 8. The Humid Defence Competitors 8a. Sunsilk Weather Defence Competitors Case Study 8b. Norwegian Hand Cream- Case Study 8c. Tresemme Climate Control 8d. Liese Hair Refresher 9. Summary 10. Appendices Illustrations References Bibliography

6. Recommendations 6a. Product Range 6b. Stripping Shampoo 6c. Nourishing Care 6d. Revitaliser and Refresher Spray

INTRODUCTION

I N T R O D U C T I O N With L’Oreal keen to capitalize upon the growing potential of the South East Asian (ASEAN) market they set us a task. The challenge was to source an existing hair care product from across the global market, adapt it and launch it to the South East Asian Consumer under the L’Oreal Paris name. L’Oreal want to give the ASEAN consumer something unique, something that will fit their specific needs and desires. L’Oreal asked us to focus on the whole of South East Asia which includes 10 countries as well as India. Each country will have natural differences in consumer behaviour and needs, however “The Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) covers ten countries, each with a unique culture, mirroring the personal care product markets of the European Union (EU). However, these nations do share some similarities”. (Cosmetics-business, 2011:Online). Research was carried out looking into each of the countries separately to find the common grounds and similarities in order to find a unique concept that could be applicable for the whole ASEAN area. Research however has shown that in specific countries there is more opportunity for success. For example, sales in Indonesia have grown 30% in the past four years and L’Oreal “sees sales in Indonesia growing 30 percent in 2013”. (Chatterjee, 2012:Online). It was therefore important to pay particular attention to this country as it is not only showing initial signs of success in the market, but it also has the largest population. L’Oreal has potential of reaching 241,030,522 people alone in this country. Fig 1:Splash, 2012/Online

METHODOLOGY

Method

Date

Sample & Purpose

Online interviews with Oct 2012 Southeast Asian consumers

Focus Group

Appendices

To begin the research and to gain an insight into the South 1 East Asian consumer online interviews were conducted asking 2 female and 1 male of varying ages. The aim was to find out about the lifestyle differences and also to gain information about Asian hair, needs, problems and desires.

22nd 2012

Nov 2 male and 2 female of varying ages from South East Asian 2 countries participated in a focus group. The focus group enabled team ABC to ask questions based upon initial research into the market, and to find out more about life in the target countries, and find specific issues and problems that could help gain inspiration for a potential idea.

Email with Matt Proud- 26th foot – Sales Manager 2012 for UK launches for L’Oréal

Nov Sales Manager Matt Proudfoot was emailed to gain an under- 3 standing about the development of new products in industry. Asking about launching a product and other marketing aspects.

t Retail research – Inter- 2 6 views Nov2012

Interviews dressers Market ages

with

Research

The manager from the Body Shop Oxford Street was inter- 4 viewed so the team could understand more about what the Asian consumer looks for when shopping and purchasing patterns.

hair- Nov 2012

Face-to-face interviews with 3 hairdressers from different sa- 5 lons in Nottingham.

Im- Nov 2012

Visiting UK stores helped identify L’Oreal branding and exist- 6 ing products as well as seeking new and existing products when searching for inspiration for a new range.

Emails with profession- 1 2 t h - 1 4 t h To gain a professional insight from first hand consumers and 7 al beauty bloggers in Dec 2012 potential target consumers. 3 Beauty Bloggers, Vivian Chua, SE Asia Rene Lorentzen, Darren Ang. Were asked a series of questions some basic to further our research into Asian hair types, but also to help confirm and eliminate any existing ideas the team had. Trip to Asia-Tokyo

4th Feb 2013

Late on in the project a trip was conducted to Asia were To- 8 kyo was visited. Although not the specific target market it was used to gain a feel for the Asian market as a whole. How products retail in these countries, including packaging and placement, which will be more beneficial to stage 2.

A large number of secondary sources were used to gain a deep understanding of both the Asian market and the hair care market. The research included looking at online reports such as: Euromonitor, WGSN and Mintel. As well as competitor reports from Unilever and Proctor and Gamble. Existing product have been studied online looking at reviews from industry bloggers to support our arguments. From looking at Asian trade shows and worldwide hair and beauty trade show websites gave us an insight into up and coming brands and products in the market.

3 MARKET

Fig 2: Lemon drop, 2012/Online

Fig 3: Map of South East Asia, 2012/Online

M A R K E T 3a. Why South East Asia?

L’Oreal has been keen to capitalize on reaching the South East Asian consumer and the company opened a plant in Indonesia in August 2012. “The plant will make 200 million hair and skin products next year under its L’Oreal Paris and Garnier brands, with 30 percent for the local market and the rest for export to Southeast Asia.” (Chatterjee, 2012:Online). It is not surprising that L’Oreal are keen to approach the South East Asian hair market with them hailing the market “The new frontier of Growth”. In 2011 31% of the cosmetics market consisted within the Asia Pacific and 25% of this accounted for hair. (L’Oreal (a), 2011:Online) In addition to this the acceleration of globalisation and the number of potential consumers of modern products are rapidly spiralling upwards, (L’Oreal (a), 2011:Online) which shows opportunity to launch something modern and innovative for this consumer. “With a sizeable and young population of 600 million, ASEAN is a market for many consumer goods including household and personal care industry,” (Shyan, 2011:online)

Shampoo: According to the L’Oreal hair care synopsis report; the main products sold amongst the South East Asian countries are shampoos and conditioners. Shampoos were a clear winner for each of the following countries listed; Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines and India. Professional Singaporean beauty blogger Vivian Chua explained in an email interview: “because we perspire a lot some people tend to have to wash their hair twice a day” (Chua, 2012:Email) (See appendices 7) This is one reason as to why shampoo would be as popular as it is, as the frequency use of the product is greater. The Synopsis supports this by saying Indonesians wash their hair every day for Religious reasons “in Islam, there is an obligation, after having sexual intercourse, to wash our body including our hair”. In addition to this the “excessive sweat due to weather and dirt on scalp may lead to itches and dandruff.” (L’Oreal Synopsis, 2012:Online)

Conditioner: Conditioners are less popular than shampoos but are still more popular than other hair care products. In Indonesia conditioners have seen a 13.5% increase in growth rates between 2010 and 2011(GMID, 2012). Conditioner is a product which is bought and used hand in hand with shampoo, also supporting the need for everyday cleanliness.

Hair Oils: Of the 3,480 people asked in India, 98% used hair oil. However, in the other countries listed by L’Oreal, not one consumer used it (L’Oreal Synopsis, 2011). Research showed that hair oils have been part of beauty regimes for hundreds of used and in India it is sold as commonly as shampoos and soap. (PRESSITT, 2011:Online) Both men and women use hair oils to prevent their hair becoming dry.

Hair Tonics: Specifically used in Indonesia, hair tonic “holds hair in the desired style, but it can also add moisture to dry hair, and lubricate a dry scalp” which helps reduce dandruff.(Elizabeth, 2012:Online) According to the L’Oreal hair care synopsis there were no popular signs of hair tonic use in the other countries listed.

THE KEY PLAYERS

K E Y

P L A Y E R S

4a. What brands of these are they buying Not Dissimilar to the UK, it is the bigger Umbrella brands that lead the South East Asian hair care market. Unilever lead the market with Sunsilk the top number 3 brand in Thailand, Indonesia and the Philippines. Unilever states in a recent report “Along the years, Sunsilk keeps to excite the market by launching the innovative variants apart of its core variants i.e. Silky Straight, Weighty & Smooth and Colour Lock. The launches of these fashionable variants was intended to bring the expertise and modernity” (Unilever, 2012:Online). This needs to be bought to attention when selecting/designing a product suitable for L’Oreal Paris. Ranges such as Co creations by Sunsilk is a key competitor for L’Oreal, as each range has much more variation and choice in the leading market product sector; shampoos and conditioners. Whilst Sunsilk has 8 ranges to choose from, L’Oreal only has 6, 4 of which claim to do very similar things: nourish, protect, strengthen and smooth. Sunsilk on the other hand have 8 ranges which each do very different and more specific things; straight, curl, clean and fresh, black shine, soften and smooth and protect damaged hair. Although each will most likely do similar things their concepts and the marketing of these concepts result in them being more desirable and appealing to specific problems, this creating a wider consumer.

Fig 4: Sunsilk Cococreations, 2011/Online

Proctor and Gamble follow leaders Unilever with their Pantene range. Proctor and Gamble is Indonesia’s fastest growing consumer goods company with continued double digits growth percentage (P&G, 2012:Online). Their mission statement is “to touch and improve lives of consumers everyday.” (P&G, 2012:Online).

Fig 5: ASEAN Portfolio, 2011/Online

When the focus group was conducted with a group of students from South East Asian countries Watson’s, South East Asia’s equivalent to Boots, was bought to our attention as being a key retailer. This information was supported from looking at Professional SEA bloggers and where they had purchased the products they were testing. (L’Oreal Synopsis, 2011). Sari-Sari stores are also popular, particularly in the Phillipines. (L’Oreal Synopsis, 2011). A Sari-Sari store is a hut like market stall, which means ‘Variety’.

HOME SELLING

Fig 6: Distribution Infographic, 2012/Own Image

GROCERY STORES

BEAUTY RETAILERS

When looking at the promotional aspect of the proposed range, distribution will be considered in more depth.

SUPERMARKETS

ISTRIBUTIO

4b. Where are they buying? From Looking at the L’Oreal Hair care synopsis we gained initial insight into where our potential consumers buy their hair care products. Supermarkets appeared to be the most popular place to buy shampoos. However, for hair care in general, the distribution was mixed between health and beauty retailers, supermarkets, and Grocery/ Non grocery stores.

S A C H E T S

Fig 7: Sachets, 2012/Own Image

Fig 8: Sachets 2, 2012/Own Image

Something that is well worth L’Oreal considering at the production and promotion stage is Sachets. Although predominantly used in the UK for sampling, sachets are extremely popular amongst the South East Asian consumers with 44% of Indians, 41% of Indonesians, and 72 % of Filipinos purchasing them. (L’Oreal Synopsis, 2011). “The importance of the single serve shampoo sachets in India can be gauged by the fact that it makes up more than 95% of industry sales in units, constituting 60% of sales value” (HAMMOND, 2007:Online) Sachets are popular mainly due to their very accessible and affordable prices and convenient size. According to the L’Oreal Synopsis other factors also included are; the portability and consumer exploration of new products. A recent trip to Asia gave us an opportunity to see this primarily and to see first hand how the ratio of sachets to bottles stood apart on the shelves. L’Oreal do already have some sachets available but products are limited. These products may be more desirable if packaged in the Sachet format. (L’Oreal Synopsis, 2011).

WHAT DOES THE CONSUMER WANT ?

“

The increasing demand for beauty products is driven by a growth in Indonesia’s middle-class, as Southeast Asia’s biggest economy maintains a strong growth rate above six percent, even as the global economy stumbles.” (GLOBE, 2012:online) 18

Fig 10: Hair Wash Frequency, 2012/Own Image

What does the consumer want?

Beauty giant and key competitor Unilever said in a recent report “A unique- in depth knowledge of Asian consumer needs forms the base of superior sustained category performance” (Unilever, 2007:Online). For L’Oreal to compete and further their status in the market we needed to do just this. We set about identifying the key consumers and what their needs were in comparison to UK consumers in order to propose an appropriate product. From looking at basic consumer analysis we looked at hair care regimes in South East Asia. We considered simple factors like how the consumers wash their hair in a bid to determine if there were any special characteristics or requirements our product/products must have to fulfil the consumer’s needs. It became apparent from research that consumers in the hotter climates wash their hair frequently with the average hair wash per week being 4.6 in Thailand, 3.8 in Indonesia, 9.4 in Philippines and 3.3 in India (L’Oreal Synopsis, 2011:online). Our focus group members and professional beauty bloggers supported this information. Oiling you hair might not seem a very attractive preposition but word has it that the benefits outweigh the greasy experience. (PRESSITT, 2011:online)

THICK STRAIGHT

COARSE

DARK Fig 11: Hair Types, 2012/Own Image

5a. Hair Types Between each individual there are different hair types and characteristics. Hair type is split into three main groups; Caucasian, Back Afro and Asian. Asian hair is the ultimate focus for Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Oreal as theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re seeking the South East Asian consumer. Primary research, including; speaking to professionals hairdressers (appendices 5 ), focus groups( appendices 2), interviews ( appendices1 ) and bloggers ( appendices 7) defined a range of commonalities in Asian hair.

Hard to style Hair Loss Hard to dye & curl Dried out from weather Oily Quickly H A I R

Fig 11: Stressed, 2012/Online

P R O B L E M S

RELIGION

Commonalities in hair problems were also identified: Religious factors are also important when looking at the consumer. For example, in India the Women wear Jilbabs, (in the western world known as head scarfs) “Wearing jilbab will make hair’s and scalp’s conditions damp and sweaty. Thus, this will make the hair become unhealthy” (L’Oreal Synopsis, 2011:Online)

REGIME

Not only do consumers in these hotter climates wash their hair more frequently, but also the way in which they do so differs. In the less economically developed countries consumers may not always have access to warm running water and so dippers (buckets) will be used. It is important when designing a range that this is considered as some thick heavy products can be hard to wash out ie: conditioner.

ASPIRATIONS

Derived Low Stated High

Derived High Stated High

Derived High Stated Low

Fig 12: Aspirations, 2012/Own Image

RECCOMENDATIONS

Fig 14: Lime Splash, 2012/Online

Fig 13: Asian Model, 2012/Online

R E C C O M E N D A T I O N

“The growing presence of products designed to address specific hair problems also helped to boost the unit price of hair care as a whole in 2011” (GMID: Online) The product range being proposed here has been suggested in order to justify this. According to Blue Planet the South East Asia’s average humidity level is from 70 to 90 % (2002) which causes the climate to become very muggy and sticky. Having witnessed from our focus group and professional beauty bloggers supporting this, the humidity levels are a major problem for L’Oreal’s target consumers. The humidity is not only a problem on their hair care regimes, but it also has a great impact on their day-to-day life.

Not only will it help the consumer to cope with the weather, but furthermore the range will solve the effects that humid weather actually has on the hair and scalp: oiliness, frizz and dandruff. The new range will include a Shampoo and Conditioner, which will add to the L’Oreal Paris 6 ranges that are currently offered. This will create a more specific option for consumers that are similarly offered by rival brand Sunsilk. The range will primarily start with 3 multifunctional Key products: A Revitaliser and refresher spray, a Shampoo and a Conditioner. Inspiration was taken from Treseme’s Climate Control range, as well as Sunsilk’s Frizz and Weather Defence range, the latter of which does not currently retail in the South East Asian market. Both brands focus on the climate element in their approach and appeal to consumers. (See Chapter 8 Pg 32 for competitor analysis). Our focus group raised the issue of hair fragrance saying that the humidity can often make hair smell and ideally they would like the lasting feeling of freshness. The manager of the Body Shop store on Oxford Street in London explained that Asian consumers are keen to buy products that have strong scents, for example Tea Tree. The manager from the Lush store in Nottingham supported this comment explaining that the consumers ask for fruity/floral scents as it makes them feel fresh and clean. When looking at the hair mapping report on the L’Oreal hair care synopsis, fruity and floral scents were shown as the most popular. The range will consist of a strong citrus fragrance, which supports the desires for fruit fragrances. The scent chosen by team ABC is also very appealing to both genders so the male consumer is not entirely alienated. Lemon and lime are also natural astringents, which will help to strip the hair of unwanted oil.

HUMIDITY

Fig 15: Citrus, 2012/Online

6a. Products/Range Based upon the research concluded, the team propose for L’Oreal to launch a Humidity Defence range. This has stemmed from both the South East Asian and Indian consumers need to feel clean throughout the day, (as initially raised in our focus group see appendices 2)

EMOVE

S T E P - O N E 6b. Stripping Shampoo The shampoo will be an enriching deep cleaning shampoo with a focus on keeping the hair fresh for as long as possible. Lorentzen explained her hair gets “More oily faster! Also it’s very dry here from the sun”. (LORENTZEN, 2012:Online) The shampoo would contain astringents to strip away oils and products from the hair, which causes build up and can cause the hair to have a greasy, dirty appearance. The shampoo will leave the hair feeling fresh and clean, which is what the consumer desires.

REPLENISH

S T E P - T W O 6c. Nourishing Conditioner â&#x20AC;&#x153;Humidity makes my hair frizz more in my opinion. People with finer hair may experience greasiness easily.â&#x20AC;?(Chua, 2012:Emails) The Conditioner will have anti frizz elements to restore the hair where it has dried out from the humid weather. The conditioner will also support the shampoo in giving the long lasting scent and freshness. With our consumers often using buckets to wash their hair with, the conditioner will be formulated so it can be easily rinsed out with cooler water, in case consumers do not have access to hot running water. The scalp being as important as the hair itself, the conditioner will help to nourish it and UV damage control will help protect the hair and scalp from the sunrays and heat.

EFRESH

S T E P - T H R E E 6d. Revitaliser and refresher spray The Revitaliser and Refresher Spray will act as a sort of deodorant for hair. “I wash my hair twice a day to clean up from the sweat/heat of our tropical climate and pollution” (L’Oreal Synopsis, 2011). The refresher spray will help consumers to cut down the number of times they wash their hair, or at the very least stay clean between washes. When looking at the characteristics of this product it has similar qualities to that of a Dry Shampoo, in the way it is battling greasiness in between washes. In an article written in the daily mail Superdrug stated “In the UK Dry shampoos account for a fifth of all shampoo sales.” Professional Singaporean beauty blogger Vivian Chau was emailed asking if there were dry shampoos available in South East Asia and if so how popular they were. Vivian responded saying “Yup there are. I am using one now, by Oscar Blandi from Sephora. I don’t think it is very popular but I do know some beauty bloggers use them. I guess it’s because nobody really knows about dry shampoo and what it does.” (Chua, 2012:Emails) This supports that there is not only a need for such a product in the market but also that there is a gap in the market for a brand such as L’Oreal Paris to launch one. L’Oreal is already a trusted brand which needs more exposure by presenting a new exciting product compatible with two basics will give consumers the desire to purchase and experiment with it. Talking about dry shampoo Coleman said “I agree that the concept isn’t the most appealing — a fragranced, powdery hairspray that you use in between washes to absorb oil and refresh the hair.” (Coleman, 2011:Online) For this reason a refresher spray was selected, and when it comes to suggesting the promotional and marketing strategies the product will be made to sound more desirable.

THE HUMID DEFENSE CONSUMER

W A N T S

T O

F E E L

C L E A N

7a. Consumer 1: Wants to feel Clean A commuter or someone with a job out in the open A hands on job Works long hours, Goes a long time without a shower A middle class consumer with not long term access to running water. Practical and looking for functionality Not fussy They care about wellbeing

Fig 16: Consumer 1, 2012/Own Image

W A N T S

T O

L O O K

C L E A N

7b. Consumer 2: Wants to Look Clean A city worker with an office job The need to want to look Presentable constantly A good social life From office to bar More urbanized consumer More fashion conscious Care about appearance Looking for convenience

Fig 17: Consumer 2, 2012/Own Image

THE HUMID DEFENSE COMPETITOR

Fig 18:Co Creations, 2011/Online

SUNSILK WEATHER DEFENSE

Sunsilk weather defense range has similar values to that of the humidity range proposed for L’Oreal Paris. Launched in 2011 the fairly recent range was produced to help hair withstand weather. Sunsilk makes these claims; “Weather defense products that work hard to replenish the hair’s essential moisture, which is affected by changing weather conditions. The whole range (including Shampoo, Conditioner, Light Cream and Shine Serum) contains weather-shielding technology as well as a special ingredient called rehalose, which works to reduce the effects of humidity

on the hair fibre and protect it from dryness for 24 hours.” (BEAUTY HEAVEN, 201:Online) The aim is to target rain, humidity or shine, whereas the range team ABC are suggesting is more specifically focusing on humidity as it is more specific to the Asian Market. Whilst the L’Oreal range will consist of 3 products; Shampoo, Conditioner and a Refresher spray, the Sunsilk range has 4 including Shampoo and Conditioner as well as a light cream and shine serum.

Sunsilk also capitalized upon the need for your hair to feel clean and free of product. Their shampoo similar to ours is built of a stripping formula, which strips build up. A blogger sampled the range stating that “The immediate results are wonderful” (BEAUTY HEAVEN, 201:Online) this is something that needs to be achieved in L’Oreal range, as people want quick results.

SUNSILK WEATHER DEFENSE From researching the range it is apparent that Sunsilk’s focus is on the protection of the hair from the weather. It is clear from their language used and strong science lead wording; “The formulation works by offering dual protection against the elements by balancing the level of moisture in your hair whilst shielding it from damaging UV rays.” (Sunsilk, 2012:Online) The inclusion of Trehalose adds an extra layer of protection by binding water in your hair fibers to reduce the damage caused by dryness, heat and cold. (Charles, 2012:online) The L’Oreal range will also focus on hair and scalp protection but really aims to capitalize upon the clean fresh feeling, which is often lost because of the weather. South East Asian bloggers had positive things to say about the range. Anna Ker reviewed the range and stated, “Previously, we didn’t have any products that protects our hair against UV damage, against the bad weather” (Ker, 2011:Online), which proves that the direction chosen is a positive one. The products retail at: Sunsilk Weather Defense Serum - $8.25, Sunsilk Weather Defense Leave On - $6.90, Sunsilk Weather Defense Conditioner - $6.70, Sunsilk Weather Defense Shampoo - $6.70. Something worth considering when moving into promotional launch.

Fig 19:Sunsilk Promo, 2011/Online

ORWEGIAN HAND CREA

Fig 20:Norwegia, 2012/Online 8b.Case Study Looking at products, which also focus upon the weather, Johnson and Johnsons Neutrogena Norwegian hand cream is a perfect example. The cream is specially formulated to protect hands and to help them cope under the harshest weather conditions. Just as the humidity range being proposed is to help the consumer and their hair cope in humid weather. The product is a market leader in hand cream (Butcher, 2012:Online) and very gender neutral, which also makes the product appealing. This is something team ABC wants to adopt in the marketing of the humidity range.

CLIMATE CONTROL 8c. Tresemme Climate Control Tresemme Climate Control is also a key competitor for the Range being proposed. The range states “Come hail or high water, you can have a gorgeous style every day! Don’t let wind, static or humidity destroy your style.” (TRESEMME, 2012:Online) This range is targeted more towards the general appearance of hair in humid weather as opposed to Sunsilk, which targets more towards hair care and hair protection from the humid weather. In addition this range has similar claims to the L’Oreal one in the way it will make hair look good in the humid weather. Neither of these ranges are available in all of South East Asia and India, however they do exist in some of the countries which makes them a competitor. A strong competitor given as they are Unilever brands that are leading in the South East Asian Market.

Fig 22:Tresemme Bottle, 2012/Online

Fig 21:Tresemme Advert, 2012/Online

Fig 24:Natural Asian Model, 2012/Online

Fig 23:Hair Refresher, 2012/Own Image

HAIR REFRESHER

8d. Liese hair refresher As a direct product currently being sold in the target Asian market, Liese hair refresher is a very similar product to the one being suggested. â&#x20AC;&#x153;There is nothing quite like the feeling of clean smelling hairâ&#x20AC;?(WORSHIPBLUES, 2012:Online) and this is exactly what this product does. The product removes the sweaty smell from the hair follicles and releases a cooling spritz to the scalp when applied.

SUMMARY

9. Summary To conclude, from the research that has been undertaken, team ABC propose Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Oreal Paris to launch a new hair care range specifically formulated to target the issue of humidity strain on consumers hair in the South East Asian region. Furthermore a communication and promotional strategy will be developed to progress the range further, creating an alluring story to further persuade consumers into purchase.

Fig 25: Citrus Wedges, 2012/Online

1 APPENDICES

ILLUSTRATIONS Fig 1: Splash, by Anon,2012/Online, Available at: http://stureplan.se/ bloggar/hibbs

Fig 14: Lime Splash, 2012/Online, Available at: http:// filosofiasdecatarina.blogspot.com/2010/06/lets-be-green.html

Fig 2: Fig 2: Lemon drop, 2012/Online, Available at: http://www. dreamstime.com/corexjose_info

Fig 15: Citrus, 2012/Online, Available at: http://www.layoutsparks. com/pictures/orange-9

Fig 3: Map of South East Asia, 2012/Online, Available at: http://www. worldatlas.com/webimage/countrys/asia/seasoutl.htm

Fig 16: Consumer 1, 2012/Own Image

Fig 4: Sunsilk Cocreations, 2011/Online, Available at: L’Oreal Hair Synopsis Fig 5: ASEAN Portfolio, 2011/Online, Available at: L’Oreal Hair Synopsis Fig 6: Distribution Infographic, 2011/Own Image Fig 7: Sachets, 2012/Own Image Fig 8: Sachets 2, 2012/Own Image Fig 9: Sachets 3, 2012/Own Image

Fig 17: Consumer 2, 2012/Own Image Fig 18:Co Creations, 2011/Online, Available at: L’Oreal Hair Synopsis Fig 19:Sunsilk Promo, 2011/Online, Available at: www.sunsilk.com Fig 20:Norwegia, 2012/Online, Available at: http://jedrzejosinski.pl/ norwegia.htm Fig 21:Tresemme Advert, 2012/Online, Available at: www. tresemme.com

Fig 10: Hair Wash Frequency, 2012/Own Image

Fig 22:Tresemme Bottle, 2012/Online, Available at: www. tresemme.com

Fig 11: Hair Types, 2012/Own Image

Fig 23:Hair Refresher, 2012/Own Image

Fig 11: Stressed, 2012/Online

Fig 24:Natural Asian Model, 2012/Online, Available at: http://www. fotocommunity.com/pc/pc/display/14625159

Fig 12: Aspirations, 2012/Own Image Fig 13: Asian Model, 2012/Online, Available at: http://cuteasianhair.com

Fig 25: Citrus Wedges, 2012/Online, Available at: http://prettystuff. tumblr.com/page/8 41

REFERENCES

ABC, 2011, Southeast Asia – is ASEAN a single market? [Online], Available at: http://www.cosmeticsbusiness.com/technical/article_page/Southeast_Asia__is_ASEAN_a_single_market/64016, [Accessed 2nd December 2012] ANON, 2002, Southeast Asian Climate, [online], Available at: Southeast Asian Climate, [Accessed 13th December 2012]

GMID, 2011. Personal care in Malaysia [online]. Available via: Euromonitor HAMMOND, 2007, Buying less, more often: an evaluation of sachet HENNESSY, M, 2012. Reaching the Asian Consumer, WGSN [online] Available via: http://www.wgsn.com/content/report/Marketing/Consumer_Insight/2012/November/asia_consumer_summit.html [accessed 30 November 2012] http://pressitt.com/smnr/health-benefits-of-organic-hair-oils-fromfushi/13326/ [Accessed 23rd November 2012]

Butcher, E, 2012, Review of Neutrogena Norwegian Formula Hand Cream, [online] Availabel at: http://makeup.about.com/od/nailworks/fr/Review-Of-Neutrogena-Norwegian-Formula-Hand-Cream. htm[Accessed 12th December 2012)

IMAIZUMI, J., 2012. Characteristics of Asian Hair [online]. Available at: http://www.realbeauty.com/hair/asian/characteristics-of-asian-hair [Accessed 9th November 2012]

CHATTERJEE, N, 2012, L’Oreal sees Indonesia as fastest growing Asia market, [online], Available at: http://www.reuters.com/article/2012/11/07/loreal-indonesia-idUSL3E8M7BB320121107 [Accessed 2nd January 2012]

KULVE, P, 2012. Reaching the Asian Consumer, WGSN [online] Available via: http://www.wgsn.com/content/report/Marketing/Consumer_Insight/2012/November/asia_consumer_summit.html [accessed 30 November 2012]

CHUA, V. 2012. Email conversation with Clare Smith, [12 December 2012]

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COLEMAN, C. 2011. Sales of dry shampoo are rocketing - but which should YOU buy? (online). Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/beauty/article-1350883/Sales-dry-shampoo-rocketing--YOU-buy. html#ixzz2Jf5pBwuz (Accessed 30 Novemeber 2012). Elizabeth, A, 2012, What is the purpose of hair tonic? [online] Available at: http://www.ehow.com/about_5243334_purpose-hair-tonic_. html#ixzz2KcN0vZKp [Accessed 4th November 2012] Globe, G, 2012, Cosmetics Giant L’Oreal Opens Huge Indonesia Plant [online], Available at: http://purchasequantity.com/tag/jababeka/[Accessed 2nd January 2012]

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1. Consumer Interviews

2. FOCUS GROUP Nottingham University: 22nd November 2012 TRANSCRIPT.

Interviewee: Not sure, I think for individually.

Clare: So I’ll tell you a little bit about what we’re thinking. So by the research we’ve got at the minute we’re thinking of sort of launching like a thickening, hair thickening product. Urm, like urm, so urm, research that we have found has said that, I mean obviously I don’t know how true it is which is obviously where you come in, we found research that suggests that a lot of females in South East Asia, their hair tends to fall. They experience, not servere hair loss, but like due to climate, would you say that’s true?

Clare: So it’s not a massive problem?

Interviewee: Urrmm… well Singaporeans and Malaysians is very humid there, so either the skin type and hair is very oily. Obviously, men is more oily than women. It’s humid.

MALE: I would say it’s…

Clare: Ah right, so because of the humid weather their hair is more oily. Would you say like, do you know anyone that has experienced hair loss? Interviewee: Urmmm? Clare: Hair loss.

Interviewee: No I don’t think so. Clare: CAN’T HEAR… MALE: CAN’T HEAR…. Clare: Would you say it’s quite bad?

Clare: What age is that? Is it all ages? MALE: It would be from forty onwards. Clare: From forty onwards, Male: Yes. Clare: Do you find because your hair is darker, it is more noticeable?

Anna: Like thinning of the hair.

Interviewee: Maybe. Yeh, if guy is turning old, and going bald. Yes it is very obvious.

Interviewee: Urm, for myself, when I came to the UK, my hair is like falling like hundreds a day, I don’t know why, but home is better.

Clare: Ill just ask you, Ill just go through this, how old are you if you don’t mind me asking?

Anna: Maybe because of the climate?

Interviewee: 24

Interviewee: Some people tell me because of the water they use here.

Clare: And you were raised in, born in china.

Clare: What about other women?Anna: Is it a bad problem in Singapore? Do a lot of women have a problem with hair falling out.

Interviewee: Yes, Clare: and raised in Singapore?

Interviewee: Kind of migrate, so I’m not basically Singaporean. Yeah.

rub it in.

Clare: When you’re, your life at home. I suppose it’s very different from here, what’s like a typical day for you, when you’re back home?

MALE: oh yeh yeh.

Interviewee: hot, Summer? Clare: So like, I’ll get up in the morning, wash my hair, go to work, come back. Interviewee: oh.. Clare: Like is it a busy lifestyle.

Clare: Do they have it in Singapore do you know? Interviewee: Not sure. MALE: can’t hear. CAN’T HEAR… Clare: Do most girls you know wash their hair everyday?

Interviewee: Okay, well because basically Singapore is very very hot, it’s very easy to sweat, so we shower like three times a day.

Interviewee: Yes I think so, everyday.

Clare: three times a day?

Clare: Do you wash it here everyday?

Interviewee: Yeah, a lot. SO hot there.

Interviewee: Urm, yes, if I have to go out, I wash it, but if I have a lazy day and don’t go out no I don’t wash it haha.

Clare: Do you wash your hair a lot? Interviewee: Maybe once. I sometimes just was my body other time, once a day. Clare: But you wash it everyday? Interviewee: Yes, everyday. I wash it everyday, definitely everyday in Singapore. Clare: What’s the other hot country? Malaysia? Inteviewee: I’m not from there, but it is similar, the weather. Clare: Have you ever heard of the product, dry shampoo?

Anna: When you’re home do you wash it because it feels greasy and horrible? Interviewee: Yes Anna: or because of the way it looks? Interviewee: urmm, smells, feels is more important to me. Anna: Ok Clare: How would you describe your hair in thee words?

Interviewee: Drying shampoo?

Interviewee: errrr.. urmm.. I think my hair, kind of neutral, not too oily, not too dry. So neutral, black.

Clare: Like batiste

Clare: Sorry, did you say black?

Interviewee: I dunoo.

Interviewee: Yes, black, I dye it a bit, but it is pretty black. I can’t think of third!! Sorry!

Anna: Its like when you have greasy hair you spray it on and it goes white and you

Clare: ok, what hair products do you use in the UK?

Interviewee: I use that comes in a black bottle? Shampoo?

Clare: Is your hair naturally straight?

Clare: oh tresemme?

Interviewee: Yes

Interviewee: yes I think so, yes yes…

All: omg, amazing! Is it expensive?

Anna: Get a picture of that.

Interviewee: No it’s quite cheap.

Interviewee: Before I use L’Oreal, I use the red bottle for the coloured hair.

Clare: Is it?

Clare: Do you find dying your hair hard because it is so black?

Anna and Beth: Can you do it here?

Interviewee: Yes, it is really hard to dye, I use some problem at UK …… Because we are so black the hair so it’s not going to work.

Clare: No, it’s in China. Interviewee: Yes, I did it when I visited china and later when I visited Singapore.

Clare: Urm, so what was I going to ask you? Do a lot of girls in Singapore dye their hair

Clare: Do a lot of girls want curly hair?

Interviewee: Urm, no I don’t think so.

Interviewee: Yes.. In China yes.

Clare: no they don’t.

Clare: In Singapore do they want curly hair?

(Anna checks the picture of the tresemme picture)

Interviewee: No, I don’t think so, in uni my friends are Singaporean and Malaysian, they all like straight.

Clare: Do you use any styling products? Interviewee: I do the style, how do you say… I curl my hair. This is like permanent.

Clare: So do you think, like when you go home, do you think the lifestyle is like so different to here that people don’t, because obviously, like in England, girls like, were all doing our hair and makeup all the time, do you think that’s quite different from at home?

Clare: ahh, see this is what I want doing!! Interviewee: I did this in China when I went there.

Interviewee: It’s quite loose, like big ones.

Interviewee: Urmmm…. Girl loves to be beautiful. I think this is the same, but different ways. Maybe you guys go out for party and we go out for afternoon tea. It’s kinda like different, we do makeup and curl ourselves, our hair. If I don’t do permanent one, I curl it before I go out, sometimes.

Clare: And how long does it last?

Clare: Yeah.

Interviewee: I did it last summer, from April.

Beth: Do you find your hair holds curls well, like do they stay in?

Clare: It’s like a laser isn’t it?

Interviewee: No. No, It’s always getting loose, when I go out. In the UK it is very humid, I use Tony & Guy, for the styling, I spray it. Its not that good, I dno. Clare: What is it? A hairspray?

Clare: But this is where you would go to buy your shampoo? Interviewee: Yes, think so. Or supermarkets.

Interviewee: Yeah, a hairspray. It’s for the curly hair.

Beth: Are there any products in England that you cant buy over there that you really really like? So you would buy them here before you go home?

Clare: What products do you use when you’re at home in Singapore?

Interviewee: No..

Interviewee: Urmm.. Just use normal… (Conversation difficult to hear) L’Oreal popular in South East Asia.

Male: We have everything in Singapore. We have shampoos and stuff from Australia because we are so close. Also from places like japan, we have a lot of variety.

Beth: In UK, do you think there is more variety in L’Oreal products? Interviewee: Urmm, I think so because it is more cheaper and more like popular? Anna: What type of products do they have in Singapore? Is it just like shampoo and conditioner? Interviewee:?????? Anna: Do they have any sprays or serums like here? Interviewee: No, I don’t see them. MALE says they do. Anna: Oh they do? Interviewee: I don’t see them haha. Clare: Where would you buy your shampoo and products from? Interviewee: like drugstore, supermarket. MALE SAYS SOMETHING CAN’T HEAR IT?! (Talking about a store over there that is similar to Boots)

Clare: That’s what I mean, because you have so much variety and choice there, It’s hard for us to single out, to create one product. When obviously the technology you guys have over there, is so much better than what we have here, so this is why we are finding it quite hard to … Interviewee: So this project is for you guys to create one in South Asia. Anna: For L’Oreal Paris… Interviewee: Oh my gosh, that is so hard! Clare: So if you could have like a dream hair product, what would it be? Interviewee: Maybe, he should figure one, because his hair is really oily. Clare: So you would want one that eliminates oiliness. Interviewee: Yes, I think that is the main problem in Singapore. Mans are very oily, as well as their skin. Clare: Ah right, do you think that is the same for women? Interviewee: Urm, because I’m not typical Singaporean, urm, I think they are ok type

Anna: Does it sell western products or more local products?

Clare: So if there was a product to stop your hair from being so oily would you buy it?

MALE SAYS SOMETHING?

Male: Yes definitely, because it’s humid and hot. And when it’s humid and hot it

makes your hair oily, sticky and smelly. Clare: And there is no product that does that at the moment? Male: They do have it but it doesn’t????? ??????? Chatting ?????? Anna: So you would want shampoo that would make it smell fresher for a longer time? Male: Because the sweat makes it smell bad, you would need a shampoo maybe with a flower smell and would keep the fragrance there for a longer time. Clare: Right. Interviewee: Men’s hair is really different from girls I think. Clare: Yeah, so you almost need like a spray to spray on during the day, …..or would that not be convenient. MALE: hmmm… SOMETHING ABOUT CARRYING AROUND. CLARE ANNA AND BETH DISCUSS SOMETHING. Clare: You would want something with a really strong smell. So you do like really heavily scented things? MALE: Yes. Anna: Are there any fragrances that people in your culture don’t like or are not very accepting of? Male: We use loads. Interviewee: I think for girls we, humid kills the curls. I would love to try that, I would buy that. Clare: What I’m thinking is a humidity range, in that would be…..

Clare Smith: How old are you?

AA: Yea fruity.

Alyssa Au: I’m 21

CS: If you could have any product for your hair, what would it be?

CS: And where are you from?

AA: Maybe something that would help me curl my hair because my hair is really straight. So its really hard to curl.

AA: Malaysia CS: How long, erm, how long have you lived there? AA: Erm. I was born there. CS: And do you go back much? AA: Erm once a year, in the summer. CS: What products do you use. How many times a week do you wash your hair, do you wash it every day?

CS: And would you say that goes for a lot of girls in Malaysia? AA: Probably yes, they all have very straight hair, and they use a lot of products on it. CS: Erm and we were saying like its really hot in Malaysia. Do you find that your hair gets oily? AA: Yea, that’s why I wash my hair everyday. CS: So it gets quite greasy quickly? Does it smell?

AA: Everyday.

AA: Yea.

CS: And what products are you currently using in the UK?

CS: So we were thinking, what about like a product that kind of cools the scalp down. So you spray it on.

AA: A lot (laughs) Erm, shampoo I use like Body Shop, the, I don’t remember. Something like ginger, I’m not sure.

AA: So something like a dry shampoo?

CS: Yea, Do you just use shampoo and conditioner?

CS: Yea kind of. Do you use dry shampoo?

AA: Yea.

AA: I tried (laughs) but it feels weird. I’d rather just wash it.

CS: And erm do you use any styling spray?

CS: Do you straighten your hair?

AA: Yea, erm I think its Aussie.

AA: Erm not really.

CS: Does it bother you what you use?

CS: Do you blow dry it?

AA: I like the smell.

AA: Yes.

CS: So you like something that smells nice?

CS: Because I guess like erm, your hair type is straight anyway. I bet not a lot of girls use straightening irons.

AA: Yea. Beth Roberts: What kind of smells do you like, flowery or fruity?

AA: Erm unless you want it really really straight.

CS: What products do you use at home, do they differ from the products that you use here?

CS: What do you find is your biggest problem with your hair, the one thing that you would change.

AA: I actually use L’Oreal in Malaysia, because things like the Body Shop is more expensive in Malaysia, its actually like double the price.

AA: Erm, I try to find something that volumises my hair because it is really flat.

CS: Do a lot of people use L’Oreal then?

CS: Do you not have products like that in Malaysia?

AA:Erm yea its quite a famous brand.

AA. Erm (laughs) I don’t really know.

Anna Heaton: What sort of products do L’Oreal have in Malaysia? Are they the same as the products you can get here?

CS: Do you have L’Oreal Elnett hairspray? The one in the gold bottle.

AA:We have a lot of the range actually. CS: Where do you buy your hair products from? AA: Drugstores.

AA: I don’t think so, I don’t really use hairspray. But I have the L’Oreal serum in the glass bottle. I think its orange. CS: What products do you think are used the most. Obviously shampoos and conditioners but after that do you think its serums?

CS: Which drugstores?

AA: Probably yes. I think it depends. You know the hair masks, they are good. Because I’m really lazy in Malaysia I get those done in salons.

AA: Guardian Pharmacy, and Watsons. And sometimes just like at the supermarket. We have it in Tescos as well.

CS: Do you dye your hair?

CS: Do you get dry shampoo over there? AA: I don’t think so, it could be really new but I haven’t seen it. And its just too hot so you just want to get a shower anyway. CS: So you shower a couple of times a day when you are in Malaysia? AA: Maybe twice a day, in the morning and in the evening. CS: And do you wash your hair just once a day? AA: It depends what im doing, but usually once a day. CS: Do you like to try new products? AA: Yea, sometimes if they are on offer or if somebody recommends it. I like watching you tube videos and beauty videos. So sometimes when someone talks about a product, I will try it out.

AA: No, but im thinking of dip dying it. AH: The L’Oreal Ombre has just been launched in the Philippines. AA: Oh really?! CS: My friends Chinese and she’s just done it and its so hard because her hairs so dark it doesn’t take it very easily. AA: Exactly, that’s why I’m really nervous about doing it because we have to bleach our hair first. CS: When you’re back home do you find that you do get really hot? Because we were thinking of creating like a hair deodorant. To keep you nice and fresh. AA: I guess it could work yea. CS: But not like a dry shampoo.

CS: Do you prefer natural products? AA: I don’t really think about it. CS: Is dandruff a big problem in Malaysia? AA: Sometimes, I think so. With the heat. CS: Do you think your hair is important? AA: I mean, its important to me. I feel like we are very like natural in a sense that we don’t put a lot of makeup and stuff on in Malaysia, because its so hot. I don’t even bother, it melts. I use more makeup here. CS: So would you say its more laidback at home? AA: Yea I think so. CS: Say if theres a new TV advert for a L’Oreal product, do you think it makes everyone want to go and buy it? Or do you think you’d listen to a recommendation from a friend. AA: They are aware but not a lot of people will go and take the steps to buy it. At least that’s what I think. Unless it really works. CS: Great, I think that’s probably everything. Thank you. END OF INTERVIEW.

Aaron: If you want to come up with a product for girls….I recommend, I guess, a kind of spray? To keep the whole head area cool for girls…you know? Clare: Yeah A: To keep like a bottle or spray, you know? C: Almost like a cooling spray for your hair? A: Yeah, ‘cause it’s so hot and humid in Singapore, sometimes you just, the girls, they will just want to keep cool, they like, these girls they like... Ok the girls will always want to keep cool, so they go into a err, a shopping mall, in Singapore we have so many shopping malls, they go into the shopping mall to keep themselves cool, but they can still go in the shopping mall and they can use like a spray, serum, whatever, spray to keep themselves cool from perspiring.

Anna: Yeah for hair… C: What influences when you try, do you try many new products? S: Yeah, yeah I do. C: And how do you know, like, what to buy? Do you look at adverts, like… S: Sorry, what? C: Do you look at adverts? How do you know when to like, how do you know what to buy? S: Read the, errr, ingredients. Read the, err, errrm, how do you say this… like I don’t, if I don’t recognise it, that’s really important to me. C: Yeah

C: To stop your hair from perspiring.

S: And the, and then the design of the bottle

Beth: Yeah

C: Yeah

Anna: So like locks down on your scalp and keeps it, like deodorant for your hair.

S: And…

C: Yeah, yeah. Like a deodorant for your hair. Sara: Sorry?

C: And like, and what magazines do you like, do you read, do you read fashion magazines?

S: Yeah! Yeah, yeah.

S: Err, we have a lot, like Vogue and everything. Err, but personally, I read some maybe like, Japanese magazines. But when I came, after I came to the UK I love to read this European and American titles and magazines and so…

A: Yeah. And when it’s hot.

C: Yeah. And are, are the American magazines quite big?

C: Ooh yeah that’d be so good.

S: Yes

A: Yeah because it’s so hot, I think if its something that would keep you cool so that they don’t sweat.

C: In Singapore?

B: My friend is allergic to anti-perspirant and she got a medicated antiperspirant that literally blocked her sweat pores so that she couldn’t sweat. So maybe something like that…but for hair?

C: Ahh right. Erm,

C: Like a deodorant for your hair.

S: Yes, yes

Anna: Have we missed any questions out?

B: When it comes to like, the design of a bottle, would you be attracted to something that was bright coloured, or …

Anna: ‘Cause we were reading online that some people from here, move over to like…

S: Yes

S: Yeah South Asia

B: It would be more...

Anna: Thailand and like, yeah. So I think that might be stress.

S: Yes, definitely. Colourful, like cute, some clever design or attractive…

B: Ok

B: Yeah.

A: Yeah.

S: More for the girls

C: Thank you

C: So girls want curly hair? S: Yeah, because we have always straight so we want something… B: You want what you can’t have. Anna: Yeah S: Yeah [laughter] A: What about, how much would you say you spend at home, spend on like hair products maybe? Do you buy them regularly or… S: Yes, I’m kind of the saving kind of type, I don’t use that much. So, I, I’d just have a squeeze and that’d be it so maybe 2 months? I could use it for. Yes. I think that’s like the individual, it depends like. C: But you don’t think, like you don’t think a shampoo that, you don’t think that hair loss, is like a massive problem? S: Yeah I do, but I don’t think that at home, I lose so much more hair here. I don’t know why. C: Yeah. S: Maybe stress? Anna: I was gunna say maybe it’s stress related C: Yeah 59

3. Matt Proudfoot

4. Retail Interviews Rhian - Manager of Body Shop. Oxford Street. ÂŁ8000 sales of tea tree oil that weekend. People take back abroad to their homes. Tea tree oil, repels insects, astringent, strips oil. They want to be clean, they like the smell.

5. HAIRDRESSER INTERVIEWS

Hairdresser Interviews Notes

2. Straight, coarse, thick

Questions

4. Slim down product, easier to blow dry.

1. Do you get many Southeast Asian clients?

2. How would you describe the hair type of those clients? 3. Is it hard to style?

3. Yeah, shorter can be hard to cut 5. Hard to curl, can’t perm.

6. Really strong perm solution.

4. Are there any specific types of products you use to combat difficulties with the hair? 5. Can you describe any difficulties people with this hair type face?

6. If you could imagine a miracle hair care product to use when dealing with this hair type what would it be?

Essensuals 1. Yes

2. Coarse

3. Colour – stronger colour needed. Styling – Varies, doesn’t bend easily, curly. 4. Curl cream/ serums, Brazilian blow dry. 5. Long-lasting smoothing cream. Toni & Guy

1. A few

6.Market Research- IMAGES 63

7. Bloggers Responses

8. Trip To Asia

9.Consent Forms

10. Blog & Pinterest http://lorealpariswinners.tumblr.com

http://pinterest.com/annaclaudia/because-we-re-worth-it/