The Beautiful Truth

The Beautiful Truth

Clare Smith 1

N0323821 - FASH30001 7,682 Words Excluding References 2

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“I cannot say often enough how much I consider beauty a powerful and advantageous quality. Socrates called it “A short tyranny,” and Plato, ‘The privilege of nature.” We have no quality that surpasses it in credit. It holds the first place in human relations; it presents itself before the rest, seduces and prepossesses our judgment with great authority and a wondrous impression” (Montaigne, 2003 P232)

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Is there any trust/truth left in the beauty industry? Has there ever been any? Is there a new way that Brands can use more realistic marketing messages so consumers can shop with less scepticism?

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Contents 1.Introduction

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2.Methodology

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11.Appendix P81 1. Transcript of Skype Interview – Surri Graver 2a. Questionnaire 2b. Questionnaire Results 3a. Transcript Focus Group A 3b. Transcript Focus Group B 4.Department Store Images/Notes 5. Ethnographic Research 6. Transcript of interview with Nola Peach 7. Emails with Rowena Bernados 8. Mascara Experiment 9.Emails With Charlotte Green 10. Consent Forms 11. Critical Path 12. Tutorial Record Sheets

3.Perception of Beauty P17 4.Mirror Mirror on The Wall P21 5.The Advertising Fantasy P26 5a.The ASA 6.The Good The Bad & The Ugly P35 6a.Good- You Tube & Beauty Bloggers 6b.Bad- Beauty Counters 6c.Ugly –Journalists &Publications 7.Brands P47 7b.Dove- Case Study 7c.John Lewis

13.Ethical Checklist

8.Consumer Reaction & Fture Needs P53 9.The Future is Bright – Summary & Recommendations P59 10.List of Illustrations, References & Bibliography P71 10a.Illustrations 10b.References 10c. Bibliography 7

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1. Introduction

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Introduction

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efore I began my journey into exploring the fabricated beauty industry, an industry that is so oversaturated with falsified claims and advertisements, I never imagined the sceptical me would fall victim into this world. There are two sides to every story and having found myself on both sides I give you an analytical professional perspective on the subject in matter as well as being a consumer in this market.

I aimed to dissect the industry, to expose its flaws and to discover some truth into how it really works, I wanted to discover how they capture into the minds of women everywhere using various tactics to leer us into it’s world, where we’re desperate to have the latest product that promises unrealistic results.

I can only describe beauty like a drug, like an addiction, Journalists are the dealers and the latest copy of Vogue is the drug, the fix we long for. Not surprisingly according to a recent study: “one in three women wouldn’t leave the house without a full face of make-up.” (Harding, 2011: online) when it comes to cutting back, cosmetics are seen as an essential; and when cosmetics play such an important part in a woman’s life, it is important for a brand to get it right.

In todays digital age women are turning to ‘beauty blogging’ review videos before making purchasing decisions. The videos allow users to watch the product in action, understand its use, and make an informed decision before making the purchase. They want a more honest and genuine approach to product reviews, as well as a step by step guide into achieving a certain look.

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Brands like Revlon have quite rightly tried this way of marketing however “If companies post content that proclaims their product as the best, users view these videos as biased product propaganda, rather then insightful information.”

(Aspririn, 2012: online) Although the industry is at its height worth an estimated £1.38 billion pounds in the UK alone, my fear is for how long will consumers continue to buy into the falsities that make the industry so successful?

How would consumers react to more truthful campaigns, which promise to achieve more realistic results? Or does the consumer thrive on the feeling that she could too look like Eva Longoria in the L’Oreal Paris adverts should she buy that particular mascara?

Fig 1: Beauty Counter, 2012 11

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2. Methodology

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Method

Date

Sample & Purpose

Appendices

Initial Questionnaire

11th November 2012

25 women between the ages of 25-50+t o gain an initial insight into the consumer mindset and to determine their most valued aspect of the industry to continue with my research. In relation to my question I wanted to gain awareness from a mature demographic.

2aQuestionnaire 2b-Results

Focus Group A

1 2 t h N o v e m b e r Four beauty ‘enthusiasts’ including a Clinique sales consultant to also gain initial 3A 2012 awareness around my topic from a potential target group, to see if the answers varied to that of a more mature target group from the initial questionnaire.

Focus Group B

1 3 t h N o v e m e b e r Two regular female beauty consumers, to see their perspective of the industry and 3B 2012 to see whether their points of interest differed from people who consider themselves ‘enthusiasts’

Interview with Professional & MAC Make-up Artist Surri Graver

1 3 t h N o v e m e b e r To gain an opinion on the subject from both a personal, professional and brand per- 1 2012 spective. To ask her about the types of consumers who shop in store and what they look for.

Visit Department stores

26th November 2012

2a. Primary

Visiting the department stores in order to get a taste of the environment from a 4 consumer perceptive and also for general research on beauty counter culture. I interviewed Megan Coleman a sales consultant for Dior Harrods, to gain some inside information on her job role and what it entails in order to reveal some truth. Coleman declined the option to be recorded due to the environment of the interview (in store) therefore there are no transcripts from this interview.

Method

Date

Sample & Purpose

Ethnographic Research

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To understand beauty counter culture from a consumer perspective in order to gain 5 an insight into the pro’s and cons of this aspect of the industry in a bid to understand if recommendations needed to be made in this area.

Mascara Experiment

6th December 2012 I carried out an experiment to test advertising against their actual products. I showcased the adverts to 10 females each done in private environment so they could not be distracted or persuaded by peers. I asked a sample of 10 women how they felt about the adverts, what they looked for in a product, and which they would be inclined to buy based upon the adverts shown. I then asked them to blind test the mascara concealing the packaging. I then asked which one they would buy based upon the products they had tested. I did experiment to gain consumer opinions of product, advertising and personal requirements when looking for products.

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Appendices

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Interview with Nola 22nd December 2012 Following the analyzing of historic mascara adverts in my secondary research, I 6 Peach interviewed Nola Peach a teenager through the second world war. I wanted to gain an insight to how the industry was back then and how it compares to now, the motives behind make-up then in comparison to now.

Email Conversation with Beauty & The Bullshit

7th January 2013

Rowena Bernado is founder of Beauty and the Bullshit a blog that provides similar views to those of my own but in a straight talking no nonsense way, I emailed her some questions based around my core question to seek advice and opinion from someone who writes about this topic daily, and so has a deep understanding of the subject, and also she is an ex professional to the industry so has no values to a particular brand or company, which means her opinions are more likely to be honest.

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Email Conversation with Charlotte Green, Superdrug

16th January 2013

After my research lead me to my reccomendations, I contacted a Superdrug employee for advice on my reccomendation idea, and for added information on the Superdrug brand and for insight into the validity of my idea.

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Method

Date

Sample & Purpose

Appendices

Case Study- Dove

December 2012

I studied Doves Real Beauty campaign to gain inspiration and insight N/A for potentially creating my own marketing campaign. I looked at Dove as it had similar values to that of my project based around Trust.

Case Study- John Lewis

December 2012

Looking a John Lewis as it is considered a trust worthy brand. I wanted to see why it is trust worthy and if there were anyways I could adopt some similar themes and ideas into a potential marketing campaign in my future recommendations.

A Study of adverts through the ages

November 2012

I analyzed mascara adverts from different eras to compare how and if they had changed over the years, to see if there was ever any realistic approach to advertising, and to see if anything could be revitalized for a new campaign in my recommendations.

Marketing Reports

Continually Oct 12-Janurary 2013

I looked at Mintel to gain an understanding of the market in brief, to see the key leaders in the market and the understand more about the consumer.

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Articles

Continually Oct 12-Janurary 2013

From looking at articles, enabled me to gain other opinions on my own theories and ideas. It helped me understand topics of interest that had already been discussed in the media surrounding my themes.

N/A

N/A

2b. Secondary

Fig 2: Clarins Counter, 2012 15

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3. Perception of Beauty

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The Perception of Beauty The reality TV fan has boosted sales of fake tan by

89%

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t goes without saying that beauty is of some importance to everyone.

A recent article written by Dario Maestripieri, (a professor of comparative human development, evolutionary biology, and neurobiology at the University of Chicago.), explains that attractive people are more successful and therefore earn more money. He writes: “Beauty may just reflect self-esteem.

Perhaps people’s self-confidence manifests itself in their behaviour, so that their looks are rated more highly, and their self-esteem makes them more desirable and higher-paid employees,” (Maestripieri, 2012:online) The perception of beauty however is ever changing. Like anything else there will always be trends for example in the Elizabethan era ladies wanted to look as pale as possible, to show wealth and how they did not have to work outside. Today the reality TV fan has boosted sales of fake tan by 89% (Paxman, 2012:online) due to the influence of reality TV programs like ‘The only way is Essex’.

When I interviewed Professional and MAC make-up artist Surri Graver; I asked her what girls come in and what they ask for she said “It’s pretty mixed I mean we get a lot of I wanna’ be like Kim Kardashian, that’s a huge one” (Graver, 2012:interview), appendices 1, which supports this idea that girls want to reflect reality TV stars and people in the media.

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Castlebajac writes, “ Why do we give in to this relentless desire for self-improvement, this insatiable need to please?” (Castelbajac, 2011, P282) However when faced with the latest media including television, magazines and now social media there is now more desire than ever to impress. Consumers want to look a certain way, they want to appear more like their favourite ‘celebrity’ and the increase in sales derived by ‘The Only Way is Essex’ support this. Tornambes makes another point : “How can women, young or not, aspire to look like modern-day role models when the role models themselves don’t even look like their photos?”

(Tornambe, 2010:online)

The consumer is always going to want something different, whether be it an individual, or a group of people. The need for consumption particularly amongst the beauty market is going to get arguably worse given that social media amongst other things has encouraged this Narcissistic world we now live in where this type of consumer is most swayed into buying products that will enhance self image. “Years ago, actresses were glamorous, larger-than-life movie icons and role models that women looked up to and wanted to be like. But, now that you can follow celebrities on Twitter, read about their makeups and breakups on their blogs and in the tabloids, movie stars are becoming more like...you.” – (Tornambe, 2010:online)

It is Tornambe’s statement that outlines my ideas to recommend unique and more honest marketing strategies that could change the way consumers shop for cosmetics. To recreate or develop trust within a brand or potential new brand. Where this has been lost through unreliable advertisement, and falsities of the industry. It’s important to still give them that feeling of ‘glamour’ and ‘beauty’ yet not in the obvious way that Dove developed in their ‘Real Women Campaign’; just honest marketing.

With statements made by the likes of Maestripieri, it is not surprising the beauty industry is set to rise by £3.5 million by 2016 in the UK alone. (Mintel, 2012:online). If the industry is forecast to do so well you may ask why even bother? However, now sees a perfect opportunity to develop a new type of strategy which would allow a brand a chance to lead the market.

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4. Overview of The Problem 4. Mirror Mirror on the Wall Overview of The Problem

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44% of the women I asked could not live without mascara

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he question I raise is, for how long can brands deliver this feel good factor if the way certain brands continue to advertise using unrealistic images and claims?

I started out by looking at the beauty industry as a whole however the market is so vast and home to such a wide range of goods, I felt I needed to be more specific. I decided to let the consumer decide what lies as the most important area when it comes to beauty. I wanted to find a focus to base my ideas upon to tackle the most important first with the idea that eventually my recommendations could apply to all aspects of the beauty industry.

Asking a questionnaire to a sample of 25 mature women aged 25-50+ helped me gain an insight into the consumer, what their needs were, and what encouraged their purchases. This provided me with a clear focus for the remainder of my research. By asking a mature audience it helped me gain a further understanding into my question looking whether there has ever been any honesty in the beauty industry. I asked the respondents a simple question with no options for selection to get as many honest responses as possible, allowing no room for suggestions or persuasion; the question being ‘What three beauty products couldn’t you live without?’.

The responses were varied as expected, ranging from razors and perfume to foundation and lipstick. However 22

the responses gave a clear result in suggesting that the most important products in this group were those of cosmetics including; Eyeliner, Mascara, Moisturizer and Lipstick. Their influence for buying new products also varied including; recommendation from friends, price, and advertising, yet each individual was different.

68% of the consumers I asked also said that it does matter which specific brand of products they by and 64% of the consumers had been using these products for over six years.

See appendix 2a for a pilot questionnaire and appendix 2B for answers in full.

It was at this point that the focus steered towards cosmetics, focusing entirely on make-up, however this evidence wasn’t enough so I held a number of focus groups and discussions with a younger demographic.

My title states ‘Is there any trust left? Has there ever been any?’ and so by getting an insight from a younger audience who have perhaps only ever known the industry to be the way it is now, it would produce some different ideas and responses.

Two focus groups were held in two parts, the first part with four girls who considered themselves to be ‘beauty enthusiasts’. One participant (Faye Wilkinson,) is a SA for Clinique, knowing more than an average consumer about the industry, with the other two participants considering themselves as regular beauty consumers.

“ Fig 3: Focus Group Image 1, 2012 23

Confidence is becoming something of a luxury in the current economic climate yet, eight out of ten British women feel more confident when wearing makeup, sales in the market have continued to grow and will continue to do so for as long as the market delivers the feelgood factor� (Mintel. 2012).

Fig 4: Focus Group , 2012

Fig 5: Focus Group , 2012

Fig 6: Focus Group, 2012

Fig 7: Focus Group, 2012

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skin. Having used prescribed treatment for the acne it left her skin very dry and it was because of this that she tested the market to find the right product for her. People are very cautious of what they use, which is why honest advertising could work as people buy into brands they trust.

Faye, student and Clinique sales advisor, also raised a valid point that one of her chosen products was an eye cream, which had been given to her free of charge and that had it not been free she wouldn’t have used it initially. Could this suggest that maybe consumers need to be offered more free samples or introductory prices?

Fig 8: Focus Group, 2012

I asked the four girls to bring along the three beauty products they too could not live without and we discussed the reasoning behind their choice. Again there were variations in results yet some similarities 4/6 people chose moisturizer.

Of the second focus group, Nina a 21 year old student from Leeds explained “I do have specific moisturizers one for my face and one for my body but if I can only have three products then I would pick the body one as I could just use it on my face as well.” (Handley, 2012:Focus group) The girls agreed and this led to further discussion around ‘the hype’ of certain products.

Nina admitted that even though she buys two separate moisturizers (one for her face and one for her body), that they probably do the same thing. When I asked Nina why she wouldn’t just use this one moisturizer she had bought along with her she explained that as she had acne as a teen it was important for her to look after her

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Collectively with the information from both the initial questionnaire and the focus group, it become very clear that women want to ultimately look good on the outside and cosmetics appeared more important then any other beauty product.

Mascara, foundation and moisturizer became the 3 key products derived from this research.

Full transcripts of the focus groups can be found in appendix 3a; beauty enthusiasts, 3b; and regular consumers.

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5. The Advertising Fantasy, Past, Present & Future

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ith my research showing that Mascara is top of women’s priority when it comes to cosmetics, I explored the advertising of Mascara, looking at past and present adverts to see if I can conclude reoccurring trends in language, message and aesthetics to depict new ideas for more honest marketing strategies.

I looked deeper into cosmetic advertising and conclusions were also made from my initial questionnaire about what influences consumers purchase decisions. Along with Recommendations from friends, price and advertising were also mentioned. Recommendation was a result I expected, however I wasn’t entirely sure whether or not people still bought into advertising. With Mascara being the number one product that women cannot live without I investigated into the advertising of this product further.

Fig 9 :Actress Viola Dana endorsing Maybelline, 1926

The first mascara I ever bought was the Maybelline ‘Great Lash’ mascara in the infamous pink and green tube, Still a mascara available today. Maybelline is now also part of L’Oréal, whom spend the most money on cosmetic advertising from year to year; in 2011 their spend accounted for over 40% of the total advertising spend in 2011. (Mintel. 2012:online) My recommendation at this stage could be suggestions on how L’Oreal as a company could cut down on their advertising spend and gain more consumer trust with the use of new and more trustworthy marketing campaigns.

With this I analysed a set of Maybelline mascara adverts. When looking at the adverts side by side you can instantly see the similarities between the adverts from different eras. Although the older adverts are of an illustrative style, they still hold unrealistic messages and it appears the messages still remain the same. It is just the power of technology which has changed elements such as the actual product, and digital format in which the images are presented.

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Fig 10 :Maybelline Eyelash Darkener, 1933

I think the analysis of these adverts proves that advertising has always lacked the element of realism, in which case I ask myself ‘do consumers like the alluring feeling of being sold a fantasy through advertising?’

The suggestions, and language needs are similar “see how lovely you can look” “transform your lashes”, and “improbably long lashes”. As the adverts get newer the actual make up application gets heavier, the more recent the images are, the darker, thicker and more glamorous the make-up is. However this could be down to the availability of make-up and also the current trends as I mentioned earlier on in the report.

It appears Celebrity endorsement is not just a recent thing either. Actress Viola Dana appears in the 1926 Maybelline advert endorsing the product “revealing the secret of her beautiful eyes”. This is exactly how celebrities endorse products now, ‘claiming’ that this product is their secret.

Fig 11: See what a difference Maybelline makes, 1952

Having explored these adverts and keen to answer my question has there ever been a trust issue within the industry?, I wanted some first hand insight into the market back then.

To delve further I interviewed Nola Peach a 74 year old health worker, and a teenager who lived through the second world war (when cosmetics were very limited), to ask her about cosmetics and how she remembers the industry compared to that of today.

Nola explained that she first bought Maybelline Mascara in 1956 when she was 18 years of age, it then consisted of a block formula, in black or brown, similar to that in Fig 9.

She continued to use the block mascara until only 10 years ago when it simply wasn’t available anymore; Nola explained she even went to lengths of ordering it out of a magazine in a bid to get one. After it was discontinued she was forced to try out other mascara of which she bought Max Factor after a recommendation from a friend, and she hasn’t used another one since. This further supports the theory that consumers are reluctant to change unless they simply have to.

Fig 12 : Maybelline Ultra Lash Mascara in Velvet Black, 1964

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Past Present Future

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I asked Mrs Peach about advertising to which she replied “and of course there was no Television therefore no Television adverts”, she explained how it was a case of going into the likes of ‘Woolworths’ where you would go in and see it advertised. She said “I can’t even remember Boots selling make-up”.

I asked if she remembered why she first starting wearing make-up? To which she replied “It was after the war when we could start looking fashionable again, I was young and I started to go to dances, and that’s when we started but it was only the mascara and red lipstick” Nola explained that she was 18 when she started wearing make-up, and it was interesting that when I interviewed Make-up artist Surri Graver, she explained that girls are coming into MAC younger and younger, some as young as 11 and 12. (appendices 1) I also asked her that now there are more products available on the market has her make-up altered much over the years?

Mrs Peach said that she wears the same as she’s always worn; “mascara, lipstick and occasionally a bit of pancake”. The ‘Pancake make up advert that featured Movie star Merle Oberon was one of the examples of aspirational looks given

by Mrs Peach. Mrs. Peach explained they wanted to loo like movie stars yet it was rare for them to achieve that. The text on the older adverts has decreased in volume as adverts get newer, which I presume is because now image is so powerful in the sense we can retouch, that the text is no longer needed.

The advert reads, “Watch for a miracle of make-up”, “soft, smooth and young looking” “a beauty thrill”, “a few seconds to make up with ‘pan-cake and you’re glamorous. The alluring words again create a story that persuades the reader/viewer into buying this product.

People wanted a feeling of glamour then, just as they do now and it is suggested from these adverts that people like the fantasy elements within advertisement and the comforting hope that they can look a certain way.

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Fig 13: Pan-Cake advert, 1944

Improbably

long

lashes

5a. The Advertising Standards Authority

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am not disputing that there is anything wrong with a little fantasy, however it is when brands over step the mark and produce adverts with no truth at all. Despite selling a story, the disappointment to a consumer when trying the product has credential to damage a brands reputation and reduces trust towards the brand.

In the United Kingdom, the British Advertising Standards Authority has taken a tough line. In the last couple of years it has banned ads by Lancôme, Maybelline, L’Oréal Revitalift Repair 10 and DiorShow New Look Mascara.

The advertising standards authority states “Our aim is make sure that all UK advertising, wherever it appears is legal, decent, honest and truthful” “While we know that what all kinds of producers are promising us in ads and television spots is not exactly the truth and nothing but the truth, few are the cases when a major company is singled out for telling falsities.” (Gorgan, 2009 :online) Dior’s New Look mascara was banned earlier this year after failing to do as it claimed “spectacular volume-multiplying effect, lash by lash”. It was Rival L’Oreal who filed the complaint with the Advertising Standards Authority that the ad “misleadingly exaggerated the likely effects of the product”.

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Fig 14: Natalie Portman New Look advert, 2012

Dior defended by saying, “consumers expect professional styling and photography” in their adverts. So from this, what Dior is saying is that consumers don’t expect a ‘realistic’ image and they almost expect what they see to be exaggerated. Dior also stated that Portman had not worn false eyelashes in the photo-shoot, but they had added the appearance through digital enhancement using Photoshop. What Dior is saying is that because they didn’t use false eyelashes, they were in no wrong.

“let’s get back to -Sweney, 2011:online

Sweeny says, “This ban sends a powerful message to advertisers – let’s get back to reality.”

(Sweeny, 2011:online) I agree with Sweeny’s point. Why spend so much on advertising that could potentially do more harm than good?

Reality.”

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6. The Good The Bad and The Ugly

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Fig 15: Hannelore Knuts Natural Beauty, 2012

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Advertising is just one way in which consumers gain the desire to try a new product. However there are many more ways in which consumers seek advice and look for recommendations. The most key places being through journalists in magazines, the beauty counters themselves and more recently beauty blogging and YouTube videos.

Good Bad Ugly

I have analysed each of these influences, looking into which methods are the most ‘reliable/’trustworthy’, and which drive consumer purchasing.

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6a: Good - YouTube & Beauty Bloggers I touched upon in my introduction the popularity and rise of YouTube beauty bloggers. “Peer-to-peer word of mouth feeds into the wisdom of crowds theory, as peers influence purchases more than a brand ever can as they adopt the Mandy Rice-Davies defence of ‘all brands would say that, wouldn’t they?’

(Mintel 2012:online).

Reasons like this are why beauty bloggers appeal to so many consumers as consumers can really relate to them.

However when I interviewed Make-up artist Surri Graver she said “To be honest I kind of take things beauty bloggers say with a pinch of salt because a lot of them aren’t trained make up artists or hairstylists a lot of them just do it because they really enjoy doing it, which I do respect” That is an opinion from a professional, which differs from a consumers point of view that see’s beauty blogging as something that creates a more realistic view.

Fig 16: Michelle Phan for Lancome, 2012

Hannah Fowler (2012) that she was sceptical of beauty bloggers as more and more of them have been swayed by the industry, as Michelle Phann who was an original You Tube beauty blogger now works for Lancôme, (appendices 3a). (Bernados, 2012:online) 37

Fig 17: Beauty & The Bullshit

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his blog is written by an ex beauty insider, who goes by the name of Rowena. Her blog explores the ‘bullshit’ of the beauty industry and she writes in the biography of her blog “Alas, the real critics, individual beauty enthusiasts are kept privy from what really goes on with the products, so they only can react on the bullshit that reaches them.”

“consumers nowadays need to be impressed, shocked, surprised. Otherwise no living soul will buy the stuff the industry pushes down their throat with big, flashy ads. If you just put a plain and simple product (otherwise good) in a non-flashy, washed-out packaging with no sensational claims on it... you know very well it won’t sell.”(2012)

After exploring the blog I found an interesting comment from an ‘owner of a natural skin care company’ She writes

Rowena replied to the comment saying: “Truth, a little self deprecation and creativity (not the dishonest kind), so rare in this industry will be much valued and judging from 38

the response even of the few here, will be rewarded. But I do believe that producers have to have their financial ambitions in check. What lines are brands ready to cross just for the sake of sales?”

I take Rowena’s reply will confidence and finally look to my consumer before making a recommendation that could help solve the problem in question, creating both a profitable campaign for brands and to give consumers the reliable sources they need to choose products with achievable and desirable results.

Having liked the concept of Rowena’s Blog and valuing the act she has so many consumers interested and engaging with the topic I emailed Rowena to see if she had any views on my project. (appendices 7)

Beauty & The Bullsht

I asked her if there was any trust/truth in the industry and if she felt there had ever been any to which she replied, “Maybe at the start of the industry but need for more sales and growing competition has pushed the boundaries of lying further and further”. (Bernado, 2012:Emails) I also asked her opinions on if there were anything that brands could do to be more honest and she said that there were and that brands could use, design and be more daring. She added, “Unfortunately, with the bottom line orientation of companies, nobody really has a point of view anymore- they do whatever the survey says. The industry has no soul.”(Bernado, 2012:Emails).

Rowena’s views support that of my own and also that of my research. She states about growing competition being a reason for pushing the boundaries however, what if a brand takes themselves out of the competition and refuses to conform to what everyone else is doing? Would this gain more trust for consumers?

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6b: Bad - Beauty Counters

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e’ve all had them, those tooth-grindingly painful encounters at our local beauty counters. From the over enthusiastic SAs who turn us orange to the snooty brigade who look like they’d rather cop off with Barry Manilow than grace us with their attention.” Thompson, (2011)

Fig 18: Harrods Chanel Windows, 2012

and perfection women long for. However pleasure and service were far from which I received when completing my ethnographic research.

I thought it particularly important to research the beauty counter in department store environment, as department stores are becoming a destination purely for cosmetics shopping. So much so that earlier on this year Harvey Nichols opened their first Beauty Bazaar department store dedicated entirely to beauty and cosmetics.

I first spoke to Megan Coleman a Dior sales consultant at Harrods. She gave me some great industry insight into beauty counter culture. I asked her how long she had been in the industry and I was surprised to find only 6 short months, for such an established luxury brand/ store I consider this to be a very short amount of time. In addition to this Coleman explained she had no previous experience upon application to the role, and had only 5 days of intense training, saying that Dior is known for having one of the best training programs, she said the following “When I first went for the job it was pretty much like a model casting, girls with more experience than me were turned away just because of their looks” (Coleman, 2012:interview). It would seem Dior have their own perceptions of beauty and this is shown when hiring specific staff based upon looks, and they want these sales consultants to represent the brand image that women aspire to look like.

London is home to some of the worlds most glittering department stores; Harrods Selfridges, Liberty’s, to name just a few and in order to gain insight into this environment I visited a selection of the stores to engage with sales assistants and experience the ‘beauty counter” as a researcher and as a consumer.

Black describes the department stores as a “feminine paradise of abundance, pleasure and service” (Black, 1998, p50). Having experienced the department store for myself there is only so much of Blacks statement I agree with.

The first part I could not agree with more, when you enter the hall you are welcomed by the smell, colours, display 40

Despite having little experience a consumer would have no idea of this, looking for professional advice it is only natural you would seek it from someone like Coleman. She also explained that she works based upon commission which motivates her to sell more, great for the sales consultant but not so great for the uneducated consumer. Again this derives me back to my question of trust and truth, and that in this sector I feel the beauty counter lacks both of these. With the department store becoming a destination for beauty consumers it has the potential to do something different.

Fig 19: Benefit Counter, 2012

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aving gained some insight as a researcher I placed myself in the shoes of an uninformed consumer. I set my self a realistic scenario and went in search of achieving a smoky eye effect, having ‘seen it in a magazine’ The first make-up counter I visited was a brand named ‘Urban Decay’ having genuinely had good recommendation from friends about this brand I decided to test this recommendation. The sales consultant was sporting a similar look to what I wanted so it seemed a reasonable choice. I slowly approached the stand where I took time in browsing the various products. I then had to approach the consultant, as it was clear there would be no start of communication on her part. I explained the look I wanted to achieve and no recommendations of products were made.

Fig 20:Dior Counter Harrods, 2012

I hand picked a product from the shelf that had been mentioned in conversation with a friend, ‘Naked 2’ and asked if the assistant would be able to demonstrate the product on my face. Whilst three members of staff stood around in conversation with one another, the assistant explained it would be by appointment only, however they were not busy so she showed me to the chair.

It was here that she spent a miserable two minuetes layering eye shadow over my existing make-up. The results, I had no idea of the true colour, and more eye shadow lay upon my face than around my eyes. I became, distressed, uncomfortable, and disheartened, even though the experience was merely an ethnographic exercise in the name of research it highlighted how such a ruthless experience had affected the brands reputation, as I would never visit the brand again.

It was also raised in my first focus group of bad experiences on the beauty counter, and Bryony explained she had had a bad encounter with Yves Saint Laurent, which had put her off the brand of which she had shopped with loyally before. (appendices 3a) 42

I am the consumer

Fig 21:Urban Decay Ethnographic Research, 2012

Fig 22:Illamasqua Ethnographic Research, 2012

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After my bad experience at the Urban Decay beauty counter I decided Selfridges would be next to visit being known for their Colour Hall with a wide range of cosmetic brands. I purposely walked slowly around the counters waiting to be approached; Again no-body asked me if I needed any help. I proceeded to look around until a consultant stopped her conversation with a fellow consultant and approached me from behind the Chanel counter.

She was very polite and I explained the look I was trying to achieve and she pointed my in the right direction of some of their palettes, however the help stopped there and the consultant retained her conversation with her colleague.

I then came across a brand I was unfamiliar with, ‘illamasqua’ their eye capturing unique advertising encouraged me to look at the products. The friendly sales consultant asked if I needed any help, and I explained once more the effect I wanted and she started to tell me about the brand and products she thought I should be going for. Within minuets I was in the chair where she carefully took my make-up off and re built my make-up making me feel comfortable and at ease. I was very impressed with the service and the make-up. My experience on this counter has not only raised awareness of this brand for me personally but would encourage me to purchase from it in the future. This proves that the beauty counter and sales assistant can be successful if done properly, but one bad move can alter consumer’s perceptions and confidence rapidly.

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hilst undertaking work experience at a weekly fashion magazine which for the purpose of this report I will name *Lipstick, I was exposed to the lack of honesty in the industry. It was this work experience that encouraged me to research the market to get to the bottom of making the industry more trustworthy.

What a lot of consumers are unaware of is that journalists are delegated topics to write about and are sweet talked by brands (from my experience I witnessed a very expensive designer bag land on the desk of one of the editors in a bid to encourage her to write about their brand to create brand exposure and awareness.)

As a consumer myself I have always been inclined to buy products which have been recommended by ‘beauty readers’ or voted by ‘magazine awards’.

However I have often wondered who chooses the winning products of these awards, and this is what reads on the Cosmopolitan website: “The annual Cosmopolitan Beauty Awards are here again, and the key votes come from you, our beauty product loving readers.” (cosmopolitan, 2012:online) Cosmopolitan understand the power of the consumer and encourages them to complete the surveys online by tempting the reader with competition prizes. The survey that is completed gives options of products, and I can only presume these products have been selected by the journalists who are paid/bribed to write about them. So when purchase decisions are made upon looking at ‘beauty awards’ subconsciously it is the brand, and or journalist who have subconsciously swayed our decisions.

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6c: Ugly - Journalists & Publications

Whilst magazines continue to produce such articles week after week testing the thousands of products available on the market, it is clear that this method is still working, or brands would stop investing money into magazines and vice versa. When I interviewed MAC make-up artist Surri Graver she spoke about consumers in her job and said “often they will come in with products that they’ve seen in magazines on celebrities or trends” (Graver, 2012:interview) which also supports that the magazine industry is still influential.

However Surri’s own opinion was that she doesn’t think magazines are necessarily the best promotion for beauty products, her reasoning for this is because she knows from working in the industry that with magazines, they will use products that have been sent to them as opposed to the best product for a job.

Professional and consumer mind-sets are clearly very different as during the second focus group Nina explained she was a magazine Fiend, and if anything is rated as a five star product she has to have it. (Appendices 3b)

“

O

ften they will come in with products that they’ve seen in magazines on celebrities or trends” (Graver, 2012)

Fig 23 :BreatheLIFE featured in Elle Beauty, 2009

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7. Brands

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Thinking about potential marketing campaigns that could be developed upon my research I explored brands that have previously used variation in their marketing techniques that did not paint the usual ‘fairytale perfect’ image. I also looked at consumer reactions to these campaigns.

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o gain inspiration and insight for potentially creating my own marketing campaign, I looked at Doves campaign for real women. Launched in 2004 the campaign was not only introduced to sell their products after dove sales started to decline, but also “to make women feel more beautiful every day by challenging today’s stereotypical view of beauty and inspiring women to take great care of themselves.”

The campaign was based upon extensive global research, which revealed that out of 3,000 women in ten different countries, only 2% of women around the world would describe themselves as beautiful. Dove understood their consumers and became one of the first brands to enter the market in this way. They were a trendsetter to going against the typical stereotype beauty.

The Real Beauty Campaign however went two ways. Whilst first receiving praise for supporting ‘real women’ and opposing to use ‘typical’ models in their ad campaigns, it also received backlash after an advert appeared in the New York City Craigslist advertising for “flawless” non-models for the soap maker’s next commercial. “Beautiful arms and legs and face... naturally fit, not too curvy or athletic!” the ad read. “Beautiful hair & skin is a must!!!”

Dove quickly pulled the advert, however it was released and led people to believe that Dove had their own concepts and ideals when it came to beauty, which shows a lack of trust in the Brand and lessens not only the Dove brand credentials and everything the campaign supported. Another factor which made the Dove campaign less desirable were the marketing techniques used throughout one of Unilevers other brands Lynx. Lynx adverts and campaigns ooze sex appeal with glamorous women and attractive males, leaning more towards the ‘ideal’.

Whilst the campaign went under scrutiny the biggest question was ‘If we are beautiful the way we are why do we need to buy their firming creams?”

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Here are the claims that some of the Dove products make:

the body wash label says it “moisturizes to improve skin’s elasticity in 10 days”

the lotion label says testing proves “after two weeks, skin is noticeably firmer”

the cream promises that in two weeks “the appearance of cellulite is visibly reduced” “Although the campaign was scrutinized, in 2004 sales topped $1 billion within the first year of the campaign.”

(Thomas, 2010:online). But can I make recommendations, which are honest and genuine that both parties, the brand and the consumer can benefit from?

My opinion of the campaign is that the idea was there, with similar concepts to that of my own, challenging the ‘norm’ and presenting women with more honest views. However I feel Dove went against their public messages in a bid to make their campaign more successful which supports my argument surrounding trust and the sheer lack of it in the industry. Even though Doves message was that everyone is beautiful Dove themselves presented us with their own image of ideal/beauty.

I ask myself; can a beauty brand ever be completely honest when ultimately they are trying to sell products and feeding women’s burning desire to look good?

Fig 24: Dove Real Beauty Campaign, 2012

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ooking outside of the beauty market I looked into other Brands that are associated with trust; to discover. How do they gain consumer trust?

‘Never Knowingly Undersold’, John Lewis sums itself up with this emotive strap line. The strapline suggests comfort and trust for consumers by believing that John Lewis would never cheat them by delivering products that they don’t believe in themselves.

The website is made up of three main categories; Price, trust, and service which their brand identity is built upon. By offering a price promise guarantee this gives the consumer reassurance they need to make a purchase, as the consumer is comforted by the fact John Lewis is on their side by considering money values and the importance of paying a fair price. Their Price promise states: “We set highly competitive prices for all our products, with a dedicated team regularly checking them against other high street competitors. If we find a national high street competitor offering a better nationwide price for the same product, sold with the same service conditions, we’ll lower our price to match in all our shops and on our website, including when a competitor is having a sale.”

(Page, L, 2012:Online). The emotive language connects with the consumer allowing them to put their trust in the brand i.e.: Fig 25: John Lewis Logo, 2012 dedicated team.

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Fig27: John Lewis Advert, 2012

When reverting back to advertisement John Lewis have invested in four years of television advertising in order to build an emotional connection with consumers. According to Thinkbox, John Lewis Christmas sales have smashed records consistently every year both in store and online since using television advertising, and like for like sales have ended 10% up.

Fig 26: John Lewis POS, 2012

In terms of quality, John Lewis claims that they deliver the best quality products and the best prices, trading ethically at all times, yet another reason for consumers to trust them as it appears they are doing what is right for not just the consumer but as a bigger picture.

John Lewis offers consumers additional services once items have been purchased, which suggests that the brand cares about the consumer from start to finish.

Lloyd Page, head of Brand Communications at John Lewis says: “It has never been so important for us to emotionally connect with our customers and through television we are able to do so in such a way that has resulted in our advertising being amplified beyond all expectation.” (Page, 2012:online).

A recent article in the daily mail also suggested that consumers are more likely to trust John Lewis banking as opposed to popular high street banks, “John Lewis, bestknown for its ‘never knowingly undersold’ policy, came out top, with three in four adults saying they would trust it to take care of their cash.” (Barrow, 2012:Online)

By emotionally connecting with consumers it gives the consumer a reason to trust them as the brand gives the opportunity for the consumer to connect with them emotionally. John Lewis clearly portray a vision of honesty, however they are a brand a company that sell other brands which does leave the consumer with a choice once choosing John Lewis to shop with. When looking at Dove it is different as they are only selling one brand of product.

This proves that people are happy to put their trust in a Brand like John Lewis because of it’s honesty, and loyalty to consumers even though ultimately it is a Brand trying to make money.

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8. Consumer Reaction & Future Needs

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T

aking the prime product, (mascara) and generic advertising, I carried out an experiment to engage with consumers honestly to identify consumer’s reactions to this type of advertising. I showed each consumer three mascara adverts, and packaged the three corresponding mascaras so that they were not visible to the consumer.

I asked them to study each advert side by side and explain what they felt when looking at the advert, and which mascara they would be inclined to buy and why.

I then gave them the mascaras to test, again asking what they thought of the product and which one they thought it was. The purpose of the experiment was to not only test the products against their advertising claims, but to explore consumer purchasing patterns and motives for buying products. I aimed to find out if advertising is still working and consumers opinions on them. I also wanted to test whether the more expensive products are actually the best.

I tested Rimmel Scandal eyes, (£6.99), L’Oreal Paris False Lash Telescopic, (£10.99) and Maybelline Illegal Length, (£8.99). I carefully picked these three mascaras, as they were not dissimilar in price and whilst selecting them in Superdrug each point of sale in store gave me reasons to purchase including ‘Superdrug recommended favourite brand’. However, I struggled in choosing only three products, because of the choice available, which gave me an understanding on how hard it is for consumers to make decisions.

Through the experiment I identified a key point, that all consumers needs are different and so each consumer will prefer a different product to suit their needs, highlighting the need for personalisation within marketing and advertising.

For example Ebony Goodman wears false eyelashes and preferred the Rimmel mascara as it gave her the volume she wanted which created the false lash effect she desired. However Victoria Wardle does not wear false eyelashes and said she “wasn’t an eye make-up person”, she preferred the Maybelline mascara as it wasn’t too heavy.

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Fig 28: Experiment Rimmel, 2012

Fig 29: Experiment Maybelline, 2012

Fig 30: Experiment L’Oreal, 2012

8a. Experiment What do consumers want, how do they react to Adverts?

Fig 31: Oversaturated with Choice , 2012

Fig 32: Experiment Catherine Lamb, 2012

Fig 33: Experiment Ebony Goodman, 2012

Fig 34: Experiment Charlotte Hui, 2012

I predicted that the results would vary and the consumers would have mixed views on the best product, however L’Oreal which was the most expensive mascara, did come out on top with 50% of the consumers choosing that particular one. The advert claimed to lengthen the lashes, which it did, however not to the extent the advert claimed.

Each of the Consumers commented on the mascara wand used to apply the mascara stating it is the most important thing about the Mascara, something which is not shown in the L’Oreal advert. Jade Holmes stated when testing the L’Oreal mascara “I hate these brushes”, and Ebony Goodman stated, “the application was difficult due to the nature of the brush”, however Alice Wilkes had a different opinion commenting on the positives of the brush.

In terms of the advertising, one observation I concluded was that of all the consumers that participated in my experiment, were not swayed by the advertisements, and their attitude towards them was indifferent. The thing that effects their purchases most (when looking at mascara) was the brush and being able to see that brush first before advertising. This is a message to brands that they could capitalize upon this cutting back on advertising costs and fulfilling consumers needs by suggesting products for certain types. Charlotte Hui stated that being Asian she has naturally shorter lashes, and so the lengthening mascara by Maybelline was better for her as that is what she needs. Brands have the perfect opportunity to do this by giving the consumer the personalisation she longs for as opposed to selling a broad/fantasy story through it’s advertising.

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8b. The Future Consumer Mindset

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hen the advertising standards authority banned the Este Lauder advert of Julia Roberts even they were not allowed to see the pre-production photos of Julia Roberts because of contractual arrangements.

This to me suggests even Roberts who you could say is an ideal also feels the pressure to conform to narrow ideals, she must also have a real fear of confronting reality.

“People who invest in make-up clearly have an interest In looking good, so why would they been drawn to an advert that doesn’t” (Williams, 2010:online).

My research has found that each consumer’s needs and wants are different and are always going to be different.

Trends will change and the media will influence this, however what I can conclude is that each consumer has the desire to look ‘beautiful’. However, how will this change in the upcoming future? Consumer’s mindsets are likely to change and having cross-referenced my own research with future reports, (Beauty 2020:The Future of Beauty) I have concluded the following, which will be crucial when making future recommendations.

In the next Five years women will want to be part of the conversation, new communications need to be made between the brand and the consumer as the consumer wants a more personalised service and product, as the need for personalisation is growing. Women will aspire for real beauty aspirations, making the most of themselves and not conforming to an ideal.

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Part of the conversation New communications Personalised service Real beauty aspirations

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9. The Radiant Future- Reccomendation

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10. The Radiant Future

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of us we trust our friends and people we know whilst 34% of us trust anonymous recommendations. (Whitepaper Report, 2012:online) What if there was a way to put more trust in the anonymous users by connecting us with more likeminded people? In the near future consumers want to have more connection with brands, they want to be listened to, to be part of the conversation. By taking a store such as Superdrug, which already sells a variety of brands but is recognized for lagging behind beauty giant Boots, it has the opportunity to solve my initial question and help consumers shop with less skepticism.

What If we could see the face behind the beauty cards? If we could see what real people are buying, but also what they make of it. What would they change? The proposed platform shares the views of likeminded people so you can filter recommendations to that of people you are more likely to trust, or people who have the same problems as you. This would allow people to seek the advise of another consumer before seeking reviews of a product.

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Summary of Findings

Peers influence purchases more than a brand ever can

To conclude the main problem the industry is facing in the near future is that consumers are more aware of the negativities surrounding Brands, i.e. lack of trust.

This has been shown through media driven content, for example; magazines, and advertising, as well as purchasing over the counter.

Trust is something that is earned and my primary research showed that many people buy upon recommendation from friends, or people they know; these being the people they trust. The wisdom of crowds’ theory supports this, saying “Peers influence purchases more than a brand ever can” (Surowiecki, 2005 ).

If I were to attach a campaign or recommendation to one specific brand, although profits and heightened consumer trust could be the outcome, it would be going against why I have written about this topic and the views I have. Everything I have written has been steered towards rebuilding consumer trust and as I have discovered, beauty brands are no longer trusted. The brand could be subjective and biased in their promotions and this is something that needs to be avoided. It would therefore be hypocritical to suggest this recommendation for one brand and one brand only.

Taking this into consideration I have decided that the recommendation should be attached to a company, which already sells a variation and range of brands. The recommendation will therefore have more flexibility to be honest, and consumers will also have less motive to be skeptical. Furthermore all my own opinions remain honest, whilst making the project beneficial and profitable to the company and also to the consumer.

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”

S

uperdrug tried to challenge the Boots advantage card by launching their own ‘Beauty Card in 2011’.

However Boots remain dominate in the market “ Boots is the market leader with beauty and toiletries sales of £2.5 billion in 2010. It has stepped up investment in its Advantage card and customer services” (Mintel, 2012).

The campaign I have devised is a perfect opportunity for Superdrug to raise more awareness of their brand in the market and give it the brand values it lacks in comparison to Boots. Furthermore If Boots are stepping up in the area of customer service, then Superdrug not only needs to do this but to also take this one step further. My campaign will allow them to do this.

£2.5 billion After seeing potential in Superdrug to support my campaign idea, I contacted Charlotte Green a Superdrug employee of 5 years to brief her on a few ideas I had had.

Green explained that Superdrug’s aspiring mission statement is “to be the best in everyday accessible beauty and health “ and “to create good trusted brands but not have them behind a counter” (Green, 2012:email), which also supports all my negative concerns and research surrounding traditional beauty counter culture.

Superdrug now has the opportunity to launch a campaign of its own surrounding the issues I have raised within this report; trust, honesty, and having the tools to looking beautiful. Superdrug already has underlying themes through its brand messages that suggest that they already have an interest in consumer trust and happiness, which suggests they would be open to my campaign idea.

Superdrug already have a 100% happiness guarantee which states on their website “We want you to love our own brand products as much as we do. If you’re not 100% happy, we’ll give you a full refund & 25% off your next own brand purchase” therefore the right to please their consumer in a genuine way is already at the front of their brand. My campaign is a perfect way to capitalize upon this.

Green also explained that Superdrug’s own brand is also much less trusted than other competing brands for example Boots own brand No7 accounts for 15% of the markets cosmetics share. The campaign aims to capitalize upon trust and once consumers engage with this, the campaign will naturally encourage consumers to try Superdrug own branded products.

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The Face behind the Beauty Card

The Current Profiles are limiting and are visually poor

“Personal recommendations today could originate not just from friends, but perhaps wider word-of-mouth marketing including online user generated content. The important thing is that they don’t originate from the company or one of its ambassadors.” (Mintel (b), 2012) Superdrug withholds so much consumer data derived through their recent beauty card. Part of my campaign sees the need for Superdrug to share this information amongst consumers so that consumers can virtually engage with the people behind these beauty cards.

The information will not only display what people are buying but also what they think after they have bought the products. By displaying this data it gives the consumer the trust and knowledge that the consumer has actually purchased these items and has and reviewed them. It will be clear that these consumers are real people and want to help each other out by sharing their opinions on beauty.

The reviews and recommendations are coming from real people not brand ambassadors or employees that want to push particular brand sales. Their opinions are honest, they have no ulterior motive and this is what consumers trust.

Why would consumers want to share their private data?

Consumers want honest opinions before making purchasing decisions, traditionally turning to people they know for honest advice. By sharing their own purchasing history, in return they can view others, giving them the recommendations they long for. If needed Superdrug could also use incentives to drive consumers into sharing their information; this could be done in the form of bonus beauty points, vouchers, offers and promotions. It would be beneficial for Superdrug to do this as “The power of word of mouth is stronger online with an estimated 5 million people reviewing a brand online.” (Mintel (b) , 2012).

The Face Behind The Beauty Card We listen to our friends and go to them for advice because we know them, trust them but also because they are likeminded people. However, often one product that works for one friend may not work for the other because their needs are different. Even though we try the products recommended by our friends, we can often disagree as to how good the product is as opinions vary greatly between individuals.

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This is where the campaign “The face behind the beauty card” comes into play. Each persons information will be subsidized into categories, this could be into categories such as the following: • • •

Skin Type Hobbies & Interests Hair Type

The categories are an attempt to making life easier, attaining the need for personalization that the consumer needs and wants. By using this method consumers can log on to their account on the Superdrug website and rather than reading reviews on a certain product, which is often limiting and, as I mentioned earlier, the product may not be a bad product just not right for that particular person. They are then able to read reviews from likeminded people giving the consumer an easier, honest and more accurate way of sourcing products.

Fig 35: Mock up of Superdrug website 1, 2012

This idea would create the conversation that these future consumers want. It is a platform for consumer discussion. Furthermore these conversations and views are free insights and can be used for consumer research not only for Superdrug but also for other proprietary brands like L’Oreal, Barry M and Rimmel to name just a few. This information can not only help improve products and create new ones but also meet the expectations of consumers, which helps to devise and sustain trust.

The future consumer wants to tell the brand what she wants as opposed to being told what she should buy/ look like. This online platform will assist the consumer in doing just that. By Superdrug taking the time to read and answer these consumer problems, it will make them far more credible in the eyes of the consumer..

Fig 36: Mock up of Superdrug website 2, 2012

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What if I do not know my ‘type’?

When compiling my research something that was raised was that people don’t actually know what their hair type/skin type is, which would make it hard to assign themselves to a category on the website. Which leads me to the next part of the campaign: identifying your type Specialists In an attempt to identify skin types/hair types/skin tones, Superdrug would hire specialists in these specific areas that would visit different cities over a period of time to diagnose consumers with different ‘types’.

For example, dry skin or oily skin.

The specialists will not recommend specific products as this is down to the consumers using the online platform. What the specialists will aim to do is give consumers the directions they need in order to find the right products for them.

Dates of these events and cities will be highlighted to consumers through the use of Twitter and Facebook and the Superdrug website. This will also be a cost effective way of promoting the campaign all the while making the consumer part of the conversation.

The Facebook and Twitter pages created specifically for the campaign will allow consumer engagement, to share information and talk about the campaign. Consumer will be encouraged to post comments around the campaign, for example if they had their skin type diagnosed Superdrug would ask them; What did they buy? Does it work? Would they recommend it to others with similar skin?

What if I do not know my ‘type’?

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Multichannel Platforms

The specialists who will tour the country will have their own twitter accounts; for example @sarahsuperdrugspecialist as consumers trust people as opposed to the brand itself. If a tweet is sent out from a person as opposed to @Superdrug it will give the consumer a more personal and confident response.

The social media platforms will ensure that when the specialists are not out giving advice they can be answering peoples questions online making the campaign open online when offline is not attainable.

It is important that Superdrug and its specialists are fully onboard with the campaign responding to consumers, and acting upon their needs. In a recent white paper report it reads “Respond directly to customers’ input, answer their questions, and engage with them on social media. Then spread the word – let customers know you’ve taken action. When they know you care, they’ll come back with more feedback, and these conversations create a valuable loyalty cycle” (Whitepaper Report, 2012:online). Now, more than ever, Superdrug need the loyalty of consumers, which comes hand in hand with the consumers needs to regain their trust in Superdrug.

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Fig 37: Beauty Card Graphic, 2012

In order to optimize the campaigns full potential and make it accessible for the consumer, the customer database and reviews should be available on an array of platforms for both mobile and tablet devises.

By creating the app it will allow users to have the information they need at hand and allow them to create their profiles easily and upload photos to their ‘beauty card account’. The app will be a simplified version of the online (desktop) version, giving the consumer something to read on a lunch break. This provides the individual with access to the information when they need it most i.e.: when out shopping. It will be useful in this format if the consumer wants a second opinion on a product and is thinking of purchasing whilst out shopping.

Fig 38: Smart phone graphic, 2012

Having gained inspiration from the 02 Priority moments app which in brief does the following: “Whether you want pizza, prosecco, a new pair of trainers or money off everyday items, the Priority Moments app gives you access to loads of exclusive offers. Just for O2 customers. Download the app to your phone now to see the latest offers where you are.” (O2, 2012:online) The O2 app is easily accessible through smart phones and tailor made to wherever you are. I found in my research that consumers have a need for personalisation, and so an added feature to the app would be offers, which could be based upon products that have been recommended by other users.

Fig 39: Social media symbols, 2012

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Consumer Profile

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What’s in it for the consumer?

What’s in it for the Brand?

• Honestly and trustworthy recommendations • The chance to share and be part of the conversation with likeminded people • Try new products with more chance they will be worthwhile • Save time and money investing in products that are not right for them • Not conforming to an ideal • The chance to identify category types in order to shop for specific products where no brands are forced.

• The opportunity to tell the brands what they want as opposed to being told. (As the future consumer desires.)

• Brand Awareness • Journalists will have the option to write articles around the campaign increasing awareness, therefore more sales • Superdrug have naturally lower prices and so consumers would be likely to buy from here as opposed to else where, after choosing the product they need/want.

• Having specialists in store will drive footfall into store • Gain consumer trust from new and existing consumers.

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10. Illustrations, References & Bibliography

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10a. Illustrations Fig1: Beauty Counter, by Clare Smith, 2012/Original image Fig 14: Natalie Portman New Look advert, by Lance Acord, 2012/ http://uk.eonline.com/news/356445/natalie-portmanFig2: Clarins Counter, by Clare Smith, 2012/Original image s-mascara-ad-banned-in-u-k-for-misleadingly-exaggeratingthe-effects-of-the-product Fig 3: Focus Group Image 1, by Clare Smith, 2012/Original image Fig 15: Hannelore Knuts Natural Beauty, by Lernert & Sander, 2012/ Fig 4: Focus Group Image 2, by Clare Smith, 2012/Original http://www.youthareawesome.com/natural-beauty/ image Fig 16: Michelle Phan for Lancome, by unkown, 2012/ Fig 5: Focus Group Image 3, by Clare Smith, 2012/Original http://urban1972.com/blog/?tag=michelle-phan image Fig 17: Beauty & The Bullshit, 2012/ http:// Fig 6: Focus Group Image 4, by Clare Smith, 2012/Original beautyandthebullshit.blogspot.co.uk image Fig 18: Harrods Chanel Windows, by Clare Smith, 2012/ Fig 7: Focus Group Image 5, by Clare Smith, 2012/Original Original image image Fig 19: Benefit Counter HOF, by Clare Smith, 2012/ Fig 8: Focus Group Image 5, by Clare Smith, 2012/Original Original image image Fig 20: Dior Counter Harrods, by Clare Smith, 2012/ Fig 9: Actress Viola Dana endorsing Maybelline,by Original image 1926,online/ http://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/ companies/maybelline.php Fig 21: Urban Decay Ethnographic Research, by Clare Smith, 2012/ Fig 10: Maybelline Eyelash Darkener,by 1933,online/ http:// Original image www.cosmeticsandskin.com/companies/maybelline.php Fig 22: Illamasqua Ethnographic Research, by Clare Smith, Fig 11: See what a difference Maybelline makes, 1952, online/ 2012/ http://www.adclassix.com/a3/52maybellinemakeup.html Original image Fig 12: Maybelline Ultra Lash Mascara in Velvet Black, 1964, Fig 23: BreatheLIFE featured in Elle Beauty, 2009/ http:// online/ http://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/companies/ www.elleuk.com maybelline.php Fig 24: Dove Real Beauty Campaign, by Unknown 2009/ Fig 13: Pan-Cake advert by Max Factor, 1944/Beauty http://smr.lexispr.com/dove/impossibly-beautiful Imagined 72

Fig25: John Lewis Logo, by Unknown, 2012/online at Fig 38: Smart phone graphic, by Clare Smith, 2012/Original image http://www.johnlewis.com Fig 26: John Lewis POS, by Unknown, 2012/online at Fig 39: Social media symbols, by Clare Smith, 2012/Original image http://www.johnlewis.com Fig: 27 John Lewis Advert, by Unknown, 2012/online at http://www.thinkbox.tv Fig 28: Experiment Rimmel, by Clare Smith, 2012/Original image Fig 29: Experiment Maybelline, by Clare Smith, 2012/ Original image Fig 30: Experiment L’Oreal, by Clare Smith, 2012/Original image Fig 31: Oversaturated with Choice, by Clare Smith, 2012/ Original image Fig 32: Experiment Catherine Lamb, by Clare Smith, 2012/ Original image Fig 33: Experiment Ebony Goodman, by Clare Smith, 2012/Original image Fig 34: Experiment Charlotte Hui, by Clare Smith, 2012/ Original image Fig 35: Mock up of Superdrug website 1, by Clare Smith, 2012/Original image Fig 36: Mock up of Superdrug website 2, by Clare Smith, 2012/Original image Fig 37: Beauty Card Graphic, by Clare Smith, 2012/Original image 73

10b. References

Aspririn, M .2012, YouTube beauty bloggers what marketers should know (online). Available at: http://socialogicmarketing. com/2012/09/17/youtube-beauty-bloggers-what-marketersshould-know/%20%20 (Accessed 2nd January 2013).

Maestripieri, D . 2012 The truth about why beauty pays (online). Available at: http://www.psychologytoday. com/blog/games-primates-play/201203/the-truth-aboutwhy-beautiful-people-are-more-successful (Accessed 27th December 2012)

Black, P.109. 1998, The Beauty Industry, Castebajc in Tunigate, M. 2011

MINTEL(a). 2009. Department store retailing: Mintel marketing report. London: Mintel International Group.

Barnardos, R. 2013 . Email conversation with Clare Smith, 7 January

MINTEL(b). 2012. Beauty retailing – UK-January 2012: Mintel marketing report. London: Mintel International Group.

MINTEL(c). 2012. Colour Cosmetics. London: Mintel Group LTD

Barrow,B 2012: 29th August http://www.dailymail.co.uk/ news/article-2195012/Millions-current-account-John-Lewisdisgraced-banking-giants.html#ixzz2Ij2bv5ot Cammarano,M et al, 2010, Beauty 2020:The Future of Beauty /Online at https://www.fitnyc.edu/files/pdfs/CFMM_ Beauty2010.pdf, (Accessed 27th December 2012) Castelbajac, J in Tungate, M 2011, P282. Branded Beauty: How Marketing Changed the way we look, Croyden:Koogan Page Gorgan, E . 2009 Estee Lauder Ad Banned for Making False Claims (online) Available at: http://news.softpedia.com/news/ Estee-Lauder-Ad-Banned-for-Making-False-Claims-101323. shtml (Accessed 2nd January 2012).

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Montaigne, M. 2003. p232, Accidental Philosopher, New York: Cambridge University Press Page, L, 2012, John Lewis Official Website/OnlineAvailable at:http://www.johnlewis.com/Magazine/Feature. aspx?Id=517 (Accessed 3rd Jjanuary 2013).

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Tornambe, R . 2010 . Be Realistic! How Technology Affects Your Perception of Beauty (online). Available at: http:// www.oprah.com/spirit/Your-Perception-of-Beauty-in-theDigital-Age, (Accessed 30 October 2012).

beauty, 2012 30 January. Mind Candy (online). (Accessed 30 December 2012).

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Dreyfuss, J. 2005. Perception of female Beauty and how It Is portrayed in the media 2005. 18 April. The Long and Winding Road (online). (Accessed 30 October 2012). Available at: http://blogs.setonhill.edu/JohannaDreyfuss/009092.html

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Newspaper Articles Anstiss, C. 2012 . Consumer Watchdog: consumer law Stymied, The New Zealand Herald (online). 7 October Available at: http://www.nzherald.co.nz/business/news/ article.cfm?c_id=3&objectid=10838954(Accessed 30th October 2012)

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Barnardos, R. 2013 . Email conversation with Clare Smith, 7 January

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Jones, T. 2012 . Even the most expensive cosmetic creams can’t live up to claims that they repair skin from within, study finds, Daily Mail (online). 1 October (Accessed 30th October 2012) Available at: http://www.dailymail. co.uk/femail/article-2211302/Beauty-NOT-skin-deep-Newresearch-shows-expensive-cosmetic-creams-penetrate-skinrepair-within.html?ito=feeds-newsxml

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76

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Bennett 2013 Cosmetics and Skin /Online: Available at: http://cosmeticsandskin.com/companies/maybelline.php (Accessed 19th December 2012).

Sedikides, C et al. 2007. The I that buys: Narcissists as consumers (online) Lawrence Erlbaum Associates.

(Accessed 18th November 2012). Available at: http://www. southampton.ac.uk/~crsi/Sedikidesgg07.pdf

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Websites

Cosmetics Business, 2012 UK beauty industry worth over £15bn /Online: Available at:http://www.cosmeticsbusiness. com/news/article_page/UK_beauty_industry_worth_ over_15bn/76258 (Accessed 10th December 2012).

Arthurs, D, 2012 What have they done to Demi Moore?:Troubled star unrecognisable after being heavily airbrushed for beauty campaign /Online: Available at: http:// www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2117110/Demi-Mooreface-photoshopped-Helena-Rubinstein-beauty-campaign. html (Accessed 29th December 2012).

Cosmopolitan, 2012, Win a beauty bag worth £200/Online: Available at: http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/ news/beauty-news/win-a-beauty-bag-worth-200-cosmobeauty-awards-2012#ixzz2Iq8FtX9s (Accessed 15th December 2012).

American Psychological Institution/Online: 1999 Maxims or Myths of Beauty? Available at: http://jonathanstray.com/ papers/Langlois.pdf (Accessed 21st November 2012).

Dawson, A, 2012 Clamping down on beauty product claims /Online: Available at: http://www.latimes.com/features/ image/la-ig-beauty-crackdown-20121028,0,4282901.story (Accessed 11th November 2012).

Fairfax Media, 2013. The Sydney Morning Herald (online). Available at: http://www.smh.com.au/lifestyle/ beauty/smile-youve-just-been-had--but-you-may-not-mind20120704-21gro.html (Accessed 23rd October 2012).

Aspririn, M . 2012 . YouTube beauty bloggers: what marketers should know/ (online). Available at: http:// socialogicmarketing.com/2012/09/17/youtube-beautybloggers-what-marketers-should-know/ (Accessed 2nd January 2012).

Bates, C, 2007 Researchers name and shame 11 companies for making ‘false health claims’ /Online: Available at: http:// www.dailymail.co.uk/health/article-486770/Researchersshame-11-companies-making-false-health-claims.html (Accessed 30th October 2012)

Gorgan, E . 2009 Estee Lauder Ad Banned for Making False Claims (online) Available at: http://news.softpedia. com/news/Estee-Lauder-Ad-Banned-for-Making-FalseClaims-101323.shtml (Accessed 2nd January 2012). http://www.businessinsider.com/attractive-people-aremore-successful-2012-9#ixzz2GvfKybM2 (Accessed 2nd January 2012).

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Peluso, A, 2012 When to Save and When to Splurge on Makeup /Online: Available at: http://littlepinkbook.com/ resources/my-style/beauty/splurge-or-save (Accessed 12th December 2012).

Helmanis, L 2012 Metallic Nail Polish/Online: Available at: http://www.redonline.co.uk/beauty/product-reviews/ metallic-nail-polish (Accessed 30th October 2012).

Hiestand, D .2012 Consumer Watchdog: Consumer law stymied /Online: Available at: http://www.nzherald.co.nz/ business/news/article.cfm?c_id=3&objectid=10838954 (Accessed 15th December 2012).

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Kiisel, T 2012 Is blogging a good idea to promote a small business?/Online: Available at: http://www.deseretnews. com/article/865565351/Is-blogging-a-good-idea-to-promotea-small-business.html?pg=2 (Accessed 30th October 2012).

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Sweeny, M .2011, L’Oréal’s Julia Roberts and Christy Turlington ad campaigns banned The Guardian (online). 27 July, Available at: http://www.guardian.co.uk/media/2011/ jul/27/loreal-julia-roberts-ad-banned (Accessed 30th October 2012)

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Paris, B, 2012 Your Say: Do you believe in there being “The Best” beauty product?/Online: Available at: http:// www.mywomenstuff.com/2012/08/your-say-do-you-believein-there-being-the-best-beauty-product/ (Accessed 30th October 2012).

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Hypocritical? /Online: Available at: http://theweek.com/article/ index/204565/doves-real-beauty-campaign-hypocritical (Accessed 6th December 2012).

Tornambe, R . 2010 . Be Realistic! How Technology Affects Your Perception of Beauty (online). Available at: http://www.oprah.com/spirit/Your-Perception-of-Beautyin-the-Digital-Age (Accessed 30 October 2012).

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11. Appendix

81

1. Transcript of Skype Interview - Surri Graver Monday 13th November 2012- 11.05am Skype Video Interview Clare: So could you tell me your official title?

Surri: Retail artist for MAC cosmetics and freelance makeup artist Clare: How long have you been working doing this role?

Surri: It’ll be 10 months Clare: What do you do in your day-to-day jobs?

Surri: erm so if I’m working on the counter it’s just helping customers with finding new products often they will come in with products that they’ve seen, celebrities or trends that they want help creating that look at home. Erm or we get girls who are going on a night out and want a product to help make them look a certain way.

If I’m freelancing it can be absolutely anything it can be shows or it could be promotions for certain brands to show of new ranges or to promote ranges new products or for shoots for people PR for websites.

Clare: So even though you’re employed by MAC when you’re doing your freelance stuff do you use other products?

Surri: Erm I use MAC I use my own kit because the makeups up to professional standard. But if I’m doing an event for a certain brand then I have to leave my opinions of brands behind not use our own kits and use their own products. Use what I’ve been given.

Clare: Do you find that hard because in your job your have your preference on products you know what your prefer 82

Surri: definitely I mean the thing is I like high street brands especially for trends and stuff because they change so quickly you want something you can throw away It’s especially frustrating when you go to work for different brands for example Rimmel, as they don’t have products to suit every ethnic group for a start there’s no foundation for black people or Asian people, which was really awkward because you basically have to say to someone can’t do your make-up and generally the formula isn’t as good and things like that but I’m not bias against high end vs. high street but with high end you do get a better formula and product Clare: when your in mac serving on the counter say at a weekend sometimes do your feel there are better products outside of mac that would compliment someone better

say with a pinch of salt because a lot of them aren’t trained make up artists or hairstylists a lot of them just do it because they really enjoy doing it, which I do respect, but I think its yea just to look for new products and to see what people are saying about them, products can be expensive and its interesting to see what people think of them before I spend my money on them

Surri: Yea definitely I mean I have lots of different brands in my make-up bag that I use when I’m doing my own make-up I’m a big fan of Laura Mercier YSL, and brands like that erm and I do thin its nice as a makeup artist to explore all brands and to try not be biased to the brand you work for although with MAC it has a middle price point although it’s a premium beauty brand its not as expensive as some of the others

Clare: and do you always read reviews Surri: oh yea definitely if I know I’m going to spend money on a really expensive product erm I like to read a good few reviews before I do so.

Clare: What influences you when buying your own beauty products

Clare: and do you ever look to magazines for ideas on product testing on things.

Surri: recommendations form other people makeup artists we know what e needs to work with how products work

Surri: Occasionally but I have cut down on how many magazines I read I used to read a lot I look more for trends as opposed to products, because a lot of the time with magazines, they will use products that have been sent to them as opposed to the best product for a job but I am swayed by advertising, you know if I saw a Rimmel advert ad I really liked a lipstick I would go and buy it I dunno I don’t think magazines are the best promotion for beauty products necessarily.

Clare: do you think more importantly recommendations from professionals or Surri: yea definitely people above me in the industry I want to get the same results as them so use the same products Clare: Not just in terms of make up but what about other products like hair care

Clare: but you do think advertising in terms of cosmetics and beauty is still working

Surri: Hair care because I work closely with hair teams probably from what they recommend but mainly for things like that its more beauty blogs that I’ve read I follow loads of beauty blogs erm especially in my spare time when I’m looking for ideas of looks to wear to work as well at work we recommend things to one another products we’ve tried so yea it’s kind of just recommendations from bloggers and friends really.

Surri: yea definitely yea because every girl I mean they use really stunning girls a lot of the time that fit the stereotype of what you want to look like and girls will do what they can to look like that person wont they.

Clare: yea and erm what do you think is the stereotype form working as a professional makeup artist?

Clare: when looking at beauty blogs is it more for inspiration rather than a specified product?

Surri: erm Clare: What do people want?

Surri: to be honest I kind of take things beauty bloggers 83

products.

Surri: It’s pretty mixed I mean we get a lot of I wanna be like Kim Kardashian, that’s a huge one we just get a lot of girls wanting to look flawless,

Surri: errm Liz Earle cleanse and polish absolutely love that,

Clare: yea

Clare: What is that?

Surri: That’s the main thing I want my skin to look flawless I don’t care how much I spend or how many products I use I want to look flawless and obviously that’s not always achievable. There’s different levels adverts are photo shopped so you can never achieve that level of flawless.

Surri: It’s like a face wash it’s really good I absolutely love that that’s number 1 after that it’s MAC prolong wear foundation and then YSL mascara.

Clare: how long would you say you’ve been buying these products?

Clare: That what I’m looking into the fact advertising is it ill working but its given especially younger girls this new generation that this flawless skin is a real thing when it’s not it is photo shopped.

Surri: Well the MAC foundation since I was about 13 so 7 years, the face wash about a year now and the mascara a year now, I did buy it previously but wasn’t using it consistently.

Surri: The thing is they’re coming in younger and younger that’s the scary thing its just younger and younger girls its difficult in my position I don’t feel I should be doing it for girls as young as 11 and 12

Clare: And these particular products you buy regardless of cost and offers?

Surri: Yea definitely occasionally with things like mascara if I got given one I would use it but if I’m buying it wouldn’t be anything else.

Clare: Is it girls that young?

Surri: Yes I had one girl who had an argument with her mum the other day because her mum wouldn’t buy her the make-up her it is just too much and her mum was like your too young you don’t need to look like this.

Clare: Can you remember what encouraged you to buy these products?

Surri: erm well the skin care I bought because I developed acne after using medication, so it was more to help, well I was working in the beauty hall at the time and id heard really good reviews from the other girls, and it was only 13 quid so I thought I couldn’t go too wrong with it and a friend also used it so it was word of mouth really. More than anything.

It think it’s easier to buy something form somebody you trust

Clare: And this is because of the media that has influenced this Surri: Ye it is she had freckles and dint want them and its because to be honest how many adverts do you see with girls with freckles?

Clare: And what 3 products could you not you personally you in your day to day life what 3 products could you not live without and this can be anything in terms of cosmetics through to hair care to beauty

Surri: yea definitely and I knew the girl who worked on the counter as well she had really beautiful skin that 84

encouraged me Clare: did she work on the Liz Earle counter.

Surri: Yea she did Clare: but do you think, had she not been your friend you still would have bought it probably Surri: I would have you know her skin is just so lovely she looked really healthy naturally so, and that’s what you want you want to buy your skincare off someone who looks how you want to look Clare: And what about the mascara and foundation?

Surri: Mascara, I bought, I don’t actually know u think because it’s a cult product like their Touch E clait it’s just products that everyone’s heard off and I had a bit of extra money so I thought id treat myself to one and since then I’ve carried on being it.

Clare: So the high profile Surri: Yea and word of mouth again, and the foundation by chance I was in London, and it was before MAC was a big thing, but yea that was just form trying it out I think id heard of MAC through magazines and knew it was a better male up brad really.

Clare: You are more skeptical when reading things in magazines?

Surri: Yes because I know how the industry works magazines want brands on side and vise versa, erm I think I trust reader reviews you know how magazines do expert review and reader review Clare: yea Surri: I trust the reader review more I know a lot of

the time it’s PR so you have to be more cautious of their reviews Clare: And that’s it because you and I know that what regular women wouldn’t and it’s bridging that gap how can we make it where is it ok for them to lie to us I mean we want to look glamorous other wise there’s no point trying to sell a product but its how far can they push that I mean miracle in a bottle, well is it?

Surri: You read that all the time I mean BB cream is just tinted moisturizer, do you not what I mean Clare: I think a lot of the time women do know and just turn a blind eye to it Surri: Yea I think every women truly wants to believe that there is a solution in a bottle like there is something out there that will make them who they want to be that’s my truthful opinion on it Clare: I agree, and in terms of reasoning behind buying products you think the main reason is to enhance and to look good.

Surri: Yea there’s so much pressure now there wasn’t the pressure say in our own mums day as we do erm and I think obviously we have the pressure form social media that they didn’t have now but a certain type of girl is shown to us and we all want to be like that. We put pressure on each there if someone goes out and buys something and looks amazing we will go about and buy it. Friends put pressure on one another I don’t know friends on Facebook where’s that form? Friends copy each other whether they realize they are or not.

Clare: It’s hard to find a product but it’s hard for example I use a particular brand of hairspray, but I have naturally thick hair anyway so when I recommend it to people its not always going to be right for them and I think beauty writers and bloggers don’t take this into account they will test a product on themselves 85

Surri: they don’t take into account individuals.

Clare: do you think it would be good if there was a platform where you could enter your hair skin type, how much you want to spend, prices what price you want to spend Surri: I think you have hit it on the head that something that’s good for you might not be good for someone else girls come in MAC my friend has this foundation I want it even if its not right for them Clare: yea Surri: they want exactly what is right for someone else, and we need something that is aimed at different groups and different price points people kill themselves buying products they cant afford, priorities that.

Clare: Would you say price is the most important thing when people are coming in and buying a product or do you think they will buy it regardless?

Surri: I think with us its very mixed with some they don’t care how much they’re going to spend they know coming in MAC it will be more expensive than going into Boots then you get other people who want to look a certain way but wont spend the money to do so.

They will only buy the real essentials. They will try and get the look from a smaller budget.

Clare: And I think that’s everything Thank You 86

2a. Questionnaire Looking deeper into our make-up bags, how far does the media influence our decisions as consumers hooked into the world of beauty?

Are You Male Female Which age category do you fit into?

18-25 25- 32 32-40 40-50 50+ What 3 beauty & cosmetic products (either or combined) could you not live with out?

Does it matter to you what specific brand of these you use?

If No what motivates you in choosing the products you do?

If Yes what specific products do you use and why?

E.g.: if it’s moisturizer you cannot live without which brand do you use and why?

For How long have you been using these products?

What motivated you to first buy them?

What influences your decision when trying out new products?

87

?

0

0

18-­‐25 25-­‐32

Yes

32-­‐40 40-­‐50

No

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Which age category do you fit into?

14 14

12 12

10

8

6

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2

50+

Does it matter to you what specific brand of these you use?

18

16

14

12

10

8

6

4

2

88 Founda.on Eyeliner Mascara Moisturizer Concealer Lips.ck Lipgloss Razor Blusher Hide and Heal Bronzer Mineral Powder Perfume deodrant Cleanser Live Without Eye Cream Shower Gel Toner Eyebrow Pencil Eyeshadow Face wipes

2b. Questionnaire Results What 3 beauty & cosmetic products (either or combined) could you not live with out?

10 8

6

4

2

If No what motivates you in choosing the products you do?

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

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What motivated you to first buy them?

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If Yes what specific products do you use and why?

For How long have you been using these products?

18

16

14

12

10 8

6

4

2

0

12 7

10 6

8 5

6 4

4 3

2 2

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89

Less than 1 Year 1 Year 2 Years 3 Years 4 Years 5 Years 6 Years + No Answer

What influences your decision when trying out new products?

0

3a. Focus Group a- Full Transcript Focus Group 12th November 2012

Clare: I guess ultimately what I want to find out is how the hell do you know what to buy, because the market is so oversaturated?

I don’t believe what I read What your given in a magazine is a fantasy which is fine but how do you ever really know what to buy?

Hannah: One of my problems is beauty bloggers as I know some of them do get sponsored, like Michelle Phann on You Tube she now works for Lancome, and so now she has to use their products. It’s like where does the authority stop Clare: In magazines a lot of it is PR, like I say there needs to be something, for categories for certain types of skin, hair, that sort of thing Bryony: everything is kind of changing, you know like the Boots in Nottingham, well someone told me that they’ve now been taking over by someone American s that’s why we now have a whole new bumble and bumble counter, origins counter, Smashbox counter, and more and more have a personal assistant who will be like do you need help?

Clare: it’s only one person to recommend you on that product so its like, I dunno, Hannah: I got that number 7 thing done the other day, its really good Bryony: is it?

Clare: yours is very good actually Hannah: it is the perfect match to my skin Clare: it didn’t work when they did it on me they bought me up in 3 different colours Hannah: oh really Clare: yea then in the end they just matched me how they would normally match, but that’s the thing, it is a gimmick, a no 7 consultant they would know what colour you are Hannah: it’s cool to know I was like ooh I’m cool vanilla Faye: it’s the trust in machines aswell, eventually it is going to be machines that tell you what to have or machines that will airbrush it on for you, in 10 years time there is a future lab report this year that said in 10 years time were going to have diagnostic mirrors in our own homes which will smart link us to products.

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Hannah: oh my god Faye: in Japan they already have similar things, Elizabeth Arden have created a sensor thing which water you should use on your skin, it’s like is it a gimmick? And would you trust a machine Hannah: with beauty I like doing my make-up speaking and sharing I don’t know whether I like the idea of a machine, Faye: it’s a service thing going onto a beauty counter Bryony: but a lot of people find going onto a beauty counter really daunting All: Yea (agree) Bryony: Even I im quite confident but people are really rude sometimes especially in MAC in the one at home they are so bitchy, when you go over they are caked to the 9’s in make-up, you never feel like they really wanna help Hannah: I was gonna say that Bryony: Unless you know what you already want they don’t want to help, they wont really recommend I know from people ive spoken to that other people find it intimidating.

Faye: definitely I get that as well obviously being in store I’m on the flip side Clare: are you still working for Clinique?

Faye: yea I start back in 3 weeks time, this may not be a valid story but once I could see a transgender walking around looking over at the counter, I could see others had clocked him and were laughing and so I approached him, and he said thank you so much for coming over it was a really emotional thing for him, so I do get what you mean about beauty counters being intimidating, even though I work on a counter I wouldn’t go into MAC I don’t like it I feel they belittle me almost, its difficult there are flip slides to it.

Ladies that don’t know what they wont and they only have their pensions to spend, and they like coming for someone to talk to every year I get a Christmas card of one of my little ladies Jo. Bryony: Aww F: you can build a rapport and she really trusts me and will only come in to see me but then at the same time my advice is only an opinion what’s good for you. Someone else on the counter may say something completely different, it’s really difficult to weigh up whats’ best for somebody, a machine? A counter?

Its really hard 91

H: it is It would be nice to see the same person everytimeso they could be like did that product work or …

B: In John Lewis when I was working there I thought I had a lot of money and I used to go to the YSL counter where she would be like how are you getting on with your foundation? And that was really nice it was like I knew her I really enjoyed talking to her.

C: that’s the thing you trust people you know H: Yea C:I trust my friends far more than I trust anybody else as they don’t have any motive to lie they’re my friends B: I just don’t trust MAC, I don’t know what it is, I don’t know whether they work on commission but I feel like they just want to sell F: I think they do its owned by Este lauder, they own, MAC, Bobbi Brown, Clinique, Bumble and Bumble, loads and loads and loads C: Surri was saying that with MAC its very F&B: Does she still work there?

C: yea she was saying its very much about fashion make-up she was saying that all the people she has in at a weekend say on a Saturday come In with actual pictures and theyre ike right Kim Karashion had her make-up like this, and I want my makeup to look like that I think its more of a style thing than a logerity thing, like my lipstick is MAC I only wear on a night out I don’t see it in the day I see it as a more fashionable thing.

H: yea I know what you mean.

C: its not caring for your skin its about thick make-up B: yea I would never wear their make-up ive heard bad thing abiut the foundation H: yea my flat mate uses it and she said its actually quite good but its so thick in the bottle she get it out and its like B: no I also think what I say about people being intimidated on beauty counters its also about the layout of them as well in a tight space your perched on a chair H: Customers walking round you they’re all staring at you B: yea while your having your makeup done, I don’t like it when they take your makeup off to put it back on.

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C: the thing is though I bet you still buy MAC B: I don’t have that much H: I have the lipsticks C:I don’t particularly like the staff but ill still buy the stuff, because I like it H: like all my friends like buying MAC they going in for a make-over it costs like 40 quid but you get that back in products B: My friend had that done, she looked like a drag queen, you pay £30 H: My friend said 40 I dunno maybe its different B: And then you get 30 quid worth of products H: they get it for their birthdays C: that’s so good F: I used to do that aswell we don’t charge anything for the service but if they buy it great C: do you sell more makeup than you say you do skin products?

F: 60%skin, 40%make-up about 20% of that is foundation loads of serums and creams there’s so much of each we have to sell, when I was account manager over the summer what I had to do everyday was work out how much of what we had sold during the day its reall7 strict, quite surprising when you don’t realize but then it annoys me that I have to do that it takes the enjoyment out of my job I like talking to people making them feel good about themselves B: its like what Clare was saying about trusting someone being honest, not saying your dishonest but your obviously going to try and push someone into buying them F: exactly.

B: its like beauty bloggers who get paid C: I want some trustworthy platform that I can go to its like simple isn’t that simple, I’ve always used it but I went to Boots, and they were like no B: ive always used simple.

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F: like face wipes ! Never use them and if you do wash your face after ad the product is still on your skin, it wont take all your make-up off.

Amber: I use the facewash from No 7 C: that’s the one I use H: Yea me too its so good C: I use it with a face wipe F: That’s bad C: They told me at No 7 to do that B: Everyone says make up wipes are really bad F: its because your leaving that residue on your skin B: I Can’t believe how much make up my wipes don’t get off C: Everyone says different F: I’ve even spoken to the dermatologist as the whole reason I got into make-up was when I was, I’ve always had bad skin, I mean I’m 22 now, for abut 10 years I’ve had bad skin went to the dermatologist ands even they tell you to do different things, even doctors, I’ve been on the pill, antibiotics al for the past 10 years. Its always going to be that problem with opinion.

C: when I had acne I used Clynadmicne and it worked A: I had that but It didn’t work for me F: its always going to be like that but that life isn’t it, Cosmo give kiss of approval B: I know some bloggers do trust I think you can tell in their tone of voice I think sometimes they are starred when they got it free H: when they’re more honest you trust them more C: What products did you bring then?

F: So I’ve got Clinique eye cream, 94

C: what eye cream is it ?

F: its all abut eyes rich, because I’m starting to get rows feet, it these bits under here I don’t like, I’ve bought this mascara but I will use any I think it’s a gimmick its not this particular brand, and Rimmel nail varnish is my favourite ever C: did you buy Clinique because you work there or ?

F: We get sent all the awards and this is the one that comes up all the time so I wouldn’t have got this eye cream I would have gone to another store C: your not fussed bout mascara F: And Rimmel have the best colours and never chips C: How did you find out about them F: it’s the cheapest one and that’s why I chose it B: all nail polishes are the same, I wouldn’t spend a tenner on a nail polish C: What did you bring?

B: I’m not sure if these are the things you wanted but these are the things if I literally ran out I would have to go and buy, like if they run out that day I buy these every time.

B: my first one if Frizzease, its dream curl styling spray I spray it on whilst my hair is wet but I’ve literally been using it for years C: How long have you been using it?

B: id say 4 years, it stared because I found it in my mums cupboard and I stole it, then I’ve used it ever since its really good.

C: What about the Dove how long have you been using that?

B: Probably the same if not longer actually, that was more trial and error I’ve used other ones like Johnson’s, and tinted moisturizer, a lot of people have different preferences with smell and it’s the one I find the best the least greasiest I can sleep in it, the Johnson’s one smells.

B: My third one is y eyebrow pencil form MAC, 2 years I went into YSL and was pressured into one and I got home and it was gingery and I got really annoyed so I went to MAC and I picked one myself they didn’t help me, I liked the sound of it I looked on their website first, I was really annoyed because YSL didn’t help me to begin with.

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F: It puts you off B: it wasn’t my usual YSL lady it was a different counter and it put me off the brand C: Hannah What did you bring?

H: GOSH foundation primer, its actually just ran out and I need some more, that’s why I bought it I’ve been using it 2 years, you put it on before you apply your foundation it evens out skin tone., and makes your foundation go on smoother.

I’d read about primers online and it looked a good brand, the packaging and that.

H: My buffing brush, erm Real techniques buffing brush B: I should have bought that aswell H: I saw it bing used on one of the You Tube videos C: How long have you been using it?

H: Probably 6months, Boots Botanics moisturizer, C: Does it matter what moisturizer you use or?

H: erm I usually get the dry skin one, because I get dry skin, as long as its Botanics, I’ve tried simple but I’m allergic.

C: Amber what’s yours?

A: my first is E45 cream, I literally can’t live without it, I put it everywhere, face cream all the time.

C: how long have you been using it?

A: well when I was younger I had dry skin so it was always prescribed.

B: it always reminds me so much of being young A: yea from when I was 6 7 I’m 20 now so over 10 years it’s my savior A: My next is Maybelline Colossal, C: do you use that particular mascara?

A: with mascara I do like experimenting that’s the one thing I will experiment with, I don’t think you can get it wrong, I did experiment with max factor but it wasn’t good, with this it is always good it lasts me ages, it doesn’t dry out.

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C: Whats your 3rd one A: Boots essentials lip balm C: Do you always buy this one?

A: yea I do normally buy this one, because I used to I had what’s that make, the yellow one, Carmex I used that but I got this taste in my mouth that I didn’t like, I just didn’t like it but this one is cheap and its rose cloured so it looks like I’ve got lipstick on.

C: would you say the most important is cosmetics I’m just looking at everyone’s products is it how you look or to make you feel more healthy. If it was me for the rest of your life you would have a foundation or moisturizer id probably go foundation.

B, H: would you really?

A: I have to moisturize as soon as I’ve washed my face.

H: my face more than anything I want my face to look perfect B: I’m such a sucker for C: So it’s more important for it to look naturally good and enhance with make-up F: they always say to us in training I don’t know whether it is a gimmick but your skin is only as good as your skin is underneath your foundation.

C: thanks everyone you’ve given some really great insights

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3b. Focus Group b- Full Transcript Focus Group 2: 13th November 2012 Clare: So Nina you have moisturizer and foundation, what’s your third?

Nina: either eyeliner or its going to be bronzer, at least you look like a real person with bronzer on otherwise Charlotte: I was thinking eyebrow stuff, eyebrow pencil, because Sophie: so eyebrows and nothing else?

Charlotte: I’m not joking I need mine done now but I’ve had mine died now Sophie: maybe a bit too much today Nina: even conditioner I wouldn’t be able to brush my hair without conditioner, does that count?

C: yes Nina: this is too much this is Sophie: just choose 3 Nina: dry shampoo S: I never thought of that, is it to late to swap?

N: would you swap lip balm for dry shampoo?

S: actually no C: so does it matter to you what specific type of like, you say deodorant but do you have the same one on repeat: S: Yea erm the dove roll on C: do you buy this regardless of offers?

S: Yea 98

C: why do you buy it?

S: Because som are funny aren’t they some of them work and some of them don’t C: Have you tried other ones?

S: yea I don’t like the spray on ones C: how long have you been using Dove roll on, S: I dunno since I’ve been buying my own since I left home 3 years ago so since 2009 bought by chance I liked the smell.

C: Lip balm?

S: Nivea the blue one C: erm and do you always buy that one S: I used to use Carmex C: why did you buy nivea S: I just try different things until I know what I like, by recommendation, magazines, you know the pages where people test and rate out of 5 I look at them.

C: foundation?

S: MAC studio fix I always have that years since 2009 C: and what convinced you to buy that S: its only because I used it and was too scared to change, its too risky C: what would convince you to change S: probably if I got my make-up done and I liked it C: would it matter what brand?

S: it would have to be a good brand it couldn’t be Rimmel, I prefer to go to a counter 99

C: Nina what moisturizer do you use?

N: it was Palmers for about 3 years, I need face and body moisturizer C: I use simple N: Palmers its not any more its too expensive now I’m on Garnier, I bought this because it was on offer as a one off and now I like it so I buy it C: foundation?

N: Bare minerals for about 1 year C: why did you buy it?

N: on recommendation C: at the counter N: No by friends they swore by it Charlotte: You convinced me N: I had acne back In the day they both had acne so I used it I buy regardless of the price.

C: how often do you buy it?

N: hardly ever, like every 4 months it’s so good.

C: and then dry shampoo which one?

N: Forever sine the first batiste in its original shitty can, C: About 4 years?

N: yea C: Do you always buy batiste?

N: yea 100

C: would you try any others?

N: No not even if they were good brands like Lee Stafford no I don’t trust them C: Why did you first buy it?

N: because I had greasy hair C: how did you know to look for it N:I think in a magazine, as a miracle product this will save your life sort of thing and it actually did C: would you ever try anything new?

N: no because it just does its job doesn’t it, if it lasted longer then yea C: This is to both of you, what influences your decisions when deciding on buying new product.

S: I reckon when somebody else has used it, and if you borrow it N: yea I agree and I’m a magazine find as well if its got 5 stars ill buy it, anything that’s new, im a sucker for novelty C: How much do you reckon you spend on average S: how often?

C: Monthly?

S: its so hard to put it down because everything lasts different amounts of time, like my foundation lasts months. I reckon we spend a lot but I could put a price on it.

N: my highlighter and foundation in one is £50.

S: nail polish remover everything in one, £100 month I would say easy N: I honestly couldn’t put I price on it C: Thanks for all your thoughts and discussion

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4. Visiting London Department Stores

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5. Ethnographic Research

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6.Interview with Nola Peach- Full Transcript Interview with MRS Nola Peach – 22/12/12 Clare; Can you remember when Maybelline first launched its mascara?

Nola: I cant remember the exact date but I would think in the early 50’s C: and did you buy it N: I used to buy it yes C: can you remember what it looked like?

N: it was in a little block with a brush I brown or black N: you used to spit on it, you rubbed the little brush onto the block C: Showing adverts N: Oh so you could get it in the 20’s then, oh look at the eyelashes C: the messages are still the same, this one N: Yes that’s the darkner stuff C: This ones from the 50’s N: oh yes see what a difference (reading it ) C: can you remember this advert?

N: no I cant say as I can, we had no Tele nothing like that so you didn’t see it on Tele or anything like that, the only way you saw it is if you went into places like Woolworths really

C: And is that where you would see it N: Yes that’s where I used to see make-up and that, I cant remember Boots having make up counter, I cant because there wasn’t the money about.

C: when the make-up came out did everyone want to wear it?

N: we were about the age group in the 50’s C: How old were you when you started wearing it?

N: (couting) er Id be 18 then 1956 and it was really red lipstick to show your lips up, C: what influenced you to wear it can you remember when you first wore it?

N: let me just think, well they started having dances and that and clothes were coming back in fashion after the war time ad teenagers ad this is the years when they started again dressing up and making the most of themselves really The film stars were all made up of course C: would you say this is what influenced as well?

N: of course yes you wanted to look like a film star its not very often you got there C: so adverts like this where would you see them?

N: in magazines I think woman’s weekly was around 104

then, and you would see them in those sorts of magazines

N: No 7blusher a bit of blusher and I’ve got C: if you could still use the block would you?

C: and did it make you want to buy them N: of course you wanted to try them out, I didn’t do the dying of the eyebrows but I wore the block mascara and red lipstick.

C: was that it

N: I wouldn’t no I use the lashy one the long lash, mind you I don’t use them very often I used their eye shadow years ago. Because all my grandchildren used to say Nanna you’ve got that blue eye shadow on again so I decided not to wear it any more.

N: You can laugh abut pancake but its still going, its been going donkeys years

N: I cant remember the powder and stuff N: is that it: C: do you remember when you first wore powder?

C: yes that’s everything, thank you N: I cant Clare I know it was when Max Factor started the pancake C: when did you get rid of the block mascara?

N: ask your mum she saw some the other week in my house, I sent off for it because I couldn’t get it any more out of a magazine and I ended up paying quite a lot for it , It was only 10 years ago, I always used the block C: Which mascara do you use now?

N: Max Factor, if I use it I don’t very often use it now, I use Max Factor lipstick mascara and pancake C: why id you buy Max Factor N: It was recommended to me from somebody at Age UK C: What do you wear now then?

105

7.Emails With Rowena Bernados

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8.Mascara Experiment

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9.Emails With Charlotte Green - Superdrug

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10. Consent Forms: Surri Graver Skype Interview

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Consent Forms: Focus Group A

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Consent Forms: Focus Group B

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Consent Forms: Nola Peach Face to Face Interview

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Consent Forms: Mascara Experiement

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11. Critical Path

W/C 12th Nov W/C 19th Nov W/C 26th Nov

Prepare for Presentation

Primary Research Send Questionnaire Out Interview Surri Hold Focus Group Interview Salli Hughes Study Adverts and Compare to instore & consumer reaction Talk to people from make-­‐up counters Secondary Research Beauty Advertising Consumer Behaviour Perception of Beauty Compiling Gather Research Analyse Reference Write Intro 500 Body 4500 Reccomendations 2,000 Conclusion Proof Read Print Hand In

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W/C 3rd Dec Intermin Presentation Xmas Hols W/C 1

tion Xmas Hols W/C 10th Xmas Hols W/C 17th Xmas Hols W/C 24th Xmas Hols W/C 31st W/C 7th Jan W/C 14th Jan W/C 21st Jan W/C 28th Jan FRIDAY 1st

HAND IN

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12. Tutorial Record Sheets

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