Trend map report by Claudia Golland

PASTELS

TREND REPORT 2018

C O N T E N T S

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Introduction Trend forecasting - How does it relate to retail - Role of Media - Influences Pastel trend - Why is the trend happening? - What is driving this trend? Primary research Styling shoot Vogue editorial Conclusion Appendix References Bibliography List of Images Ethics clause

INTRODUCTION The fashion industry is driven by trends, as they enable consumers to have guidance when purchasing products, but still with the freedom to express themselves when it comes to style and design. Wearing a trend is a form of non-verbal communication. What you are wearing tells people who you are and what you like, without actually talking to them. This means it is important that trends develop and change continuously, because consumers are also constantly growing and changing their attitudes and interests. Therefore brands must be aware of current and future trends so that they can appeal to their consumer and maintain sales.

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“STYLE IS A WAY TO SAY WHO YOU ARE WITHOUT HAVING TO SPEAK”

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- Rachel Zoe

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“TREND FORECASTING IS A SELF FULLFILLING PROPHECY, WE FIND WHATS GOING TO BE BIG, TELL PEOPLE ITS GOING TO BE BIG, AND THEN THEY MAKE IT BIG.”

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- Jane Kellock

TREND FORECASTING Trend forecasting in fashion is the key to success for any fashion company. It is a mixture of art and science that will predict any upcoming new fashion trends, or trends re-entering the market from the past. Trend forecasting agencies such as WGSN, Stylus and Cool hunting, can predict potential upcoming trends and opportunities within the fashion industry. Trend forecasting involves considering every day influences such as, societal attitudes, art and culture, history, and world events. As well as combining it with analysis of data from market and consumer research. The research they carry out plots and follows any key changes in consumer behaviour. They then also analyse consumer decision making when it comes to buying, and using this information, companies try to predict a downturn in a trend which may lead to change/ development in the trend or could also lead to the trend fading out all together.

HOW DOES IT RELATE TO RETAIL It is important for brands to keep on top of trends in order to compete with other brands effectively and keep up sales. Therefore brands have to make sure they are observing trend forecasting agencies such as WGSN regularly. Steve Newbold, Global Managing Director at WGSN Trends supports this in saying, “We are confident that the new WGSN and its extraordinary accuracy will quickly become an essential part of business workflows and help users to deliver their business goals and objectives.” WGSN is a platform that; “offers more than 350 monthly trend reports covering 17 product categories. More than 1,300 catwalk shows and 150 catwalk analysis reports also are published each season,” (Retail TouchPoints, Nov 2014) this provides fashion retailers with access forecasts years in advance. Brands can use this information to plan future designs, as well as, predict what to stock. When it comes to retail, theories such as, fashion lifecycle, PESTLE analysis, and the directional change theory can be used to determine what trends may come in the near future. The directional change theory, explains how a trend could start in high-end fashion, then will slowly ‘trickle down’ into high-street fashion. Likewise if a trend ‘trickles up’ it means that high-end designers have been inspired by trends on the high-street, such as, the athleisure trend. This also relates to retail as brands can watch catwalks and customise these fashions to create more accessible and realistic high-street trends.

ROLE OF MEDIA The role of media within fashion has evolved incredibly over the last century. Fashion journalism is forever present in critiquing current fashion trends, both influencing readers or being a voice for them. This allows businesses to see what works and what doesn’t so that they can adapt the products they sell. As well as this, because Magazines being the first form of fashion media, they still have a high amount of influence on the public with the exclusive content they provide. This is shown by an advertising ROI study that found that;

“On average, a magazine ad is remembered by 58% of respondents, and out of them, 72% take specific “actions” after seeing the ad,” (Hazahal, H, The Advertising ROI Report, 2014, SPH Magazines & GfK Singapore).

The rise of Social Media has changed the way fashion trends work. The turnover of trends in the fashion world has increased immensely and this means that brands have to observe any changes happening within the media to keep up with the ‘disposable’ trends. As well as this, the opinion of social influencers (eg. bloggers) could greatly impact the success of that trend. Social media is changing all aspects of fashion and this is commented on by Schneier. “This is fashion in the age of Instagram, a heady era in which digital media is changing the way clothes are presented and even the way they are designed” (Schneier, 2014). This is supported by Alexander Wang, who comments that social media is impacting his designs. “The way that we shoot it, the way that we showcase it and the way that we make the clothes and design them changed,” (Schneier, 2014).

INFLUENCES Trends are influenced by all aspects of life, such as the economy, social, and cultural influences. During trend analysis, brands consider the interactions of shifts in fashion, consumer lifestyle and culture.

CULTURE is very impactful to fashion trends because trends are made by

people, and everyone lives within their own culture. For example, the differences between Western and Asian cultures can be seen within their fashions. Cultural influences include ethnicity, society, civilisation, etc. As well all aspects of, literature, arts, music, and many more. These can be shown in the print, design, shape, and colour of garments.

SOCIAL influences such as celebrities, politics and world events, etc, can all

influence fashion in both high-end and high-street trends. It is social influences that tend to become trends that, ‘trickle across’ in the fashion industry, especially if its influenced by a world event such as the 2016 US presidential election. Catwalks and high-street stores alike showed clothes mocking the elected President Donald Trump. Therefore, whenever any social matters happen, trend forecasters need to be prepared to reconsider what they have predicted and change their prognosis.

ECONOMIC influences change fashion trends not necessarily in ways of

the style or design, but on practicality or consistency. For example, if money is tight, fashion is one expense that sacrificed as it is not a necessity. Therefore, trends can be impacted by this, as the consumer is more likely choose clothes that are classic and timeless, instead of a new trend that could pass quickly. This point is supported by professor John Mincarelli who says; “In rough economic times, people shop for replacement clothes,” adding “basics” prevail during an economic downturn, (Gillian Fuller, 2015).

PASTEL TREND The trend chosen for this report is the ever-developing pastel colour trend. This shows a variety of styles of clothing and accessories in many colours such as pink, yellow, lilac and baby blue. The trend can be seen in sophisticated and feminine looks, but also, in urban and street style looks as well, (these can be seen from brands such as Champion).

WHY IS THIS TREND HAPPENING? Having pastels in your wardrobe has recently become a very desired trend to obtain. However where the demand came from for the bold colours is questionable. There are three possible theories as to why pastels are so currently so popular. The first being that pastels have been used in art for centuries. However, in the last couple of years pastel colours have become widely used and in the art world. Artists such as, Agnes Martin and Mark Ryden have shown pastels predominantly in their art work, and it has been found that after a trend emerges in the art world, fashion and consumer brands typically follow. Another influence that could be the reason for the current pastel trend is that it has remerged in the fashion cycle. Like all history, colour trends tend to repeat themselves as, “All colour trends are cyclical” ( Jude Stewart, 2016). Therefore the current pastel trend is repeating itself from its popularity in the 1950s. Pastels were popular in the 50s because during WW2 there was limited access to colour dye, meaning materials were very dull. Therefore colours became more romantic in order to increase moral after the war. There was also more access to colour dye, meaning materials became more bold and colourful. The final theory for the influx of this trend is that in todays current geopolitical climate, people crave the sense of calm pastels evoke to contrast to the stressful and chaotic world we live in, as pastels are labelled as ‘serene’. With the current state of the American government, the threat of ISIS and school shootings happening, pastels can be used in lifestyle choices to create a tranquil home environment. This shows how social, cultural and economical influences have all had an impact on this trend and have influenced the reintroduction of its popularity. However, since the re-establishment of this trend some key differences can be noticed. Since its last influx in the 1950s, pastels are less feminine and can be styled with an ‘edgy’ look. Whereas in the 1950s pastel items would be maxi skirts, or blouses. The other difference is that men can be seen wearing pastel coloured hoodies or hats, but in the 1950s the only pastel colour a man would wear would perhaps be a light blue shirt.

WHAT IS DRIVING THIS TREND? In the current age of social media, the impact of social influencers is very important for brands and trend forecasters alike to consider when looking at developing trends. According to the primary research conducted, 58% of the participants said that celebrities they follow on social media influence their buying behaviour. Therefore it is clear that in some way pastels must have been influenced by celebrities due its current popularity. From observing popular influencers and the pastel trend at the moment, it can be determined that the main drivers for this trend are celebrities such as, Victoria Beckham and Rhianna. Both who have their own style and platform which drives the trend in different directions. For example, Victoria Beckham has her own clothing line which contains pastel trouser and blazer sets, driving the trend in a more sophisticated direction and influencing high-street stores to do similar.

PRIMARY RESEARCH For the primary research carried out, an online survey was conducted to determine how many people new about this seasons trends, and more specifically; pastels. As well as this, interviews were executed on the streets of Nottingham, and in-store observations were carried out to see how popular the pastel trend is on the high street.

SURVEYS In the surveys carried out over 100 people responded, 70.71% of those being women and the rest men, with the majority being aged 16-25. From these responses 73% of people said that they followed fashion trends, however only 51.52% knew about the pastel trend. This shows the pastel trend has the opportunity to develop in its popularity. As well as this, the survey was carried out in March, meaning the trend could have increased in awareness as fashion has progressed into the spring/summer season.

STREET STYLE INTERVIEWS From interviewing people on the streets, 100% identified the pastel trend as something they would wear in the spring/summer, however, few would carry this trend through to autumn/winter. Regardless of this it was proven a very popular trend for this season and many stated it as their favourite thing to wear this spring. The interviewees were also asked what influenced them to wear pastels. From this question Social media came up on top as the main influencer for the trend, others included celebrities and simply seeing their friends wearing the trend. One girl was asked why she was wearing pastels, she said; â&#x20AC;&#x153;I saw one of my friends wearing them and thought it looked good so I tried it as wellâ&#x20AC;?. This girl in particular was wearing a pink denim jacket from Topshop, which when on the shop safaris, was noticed to be a brand which had a lot of pastels items in store.

SHOP SAFARIS From exploring the stores in Nottingham, the pastel trend is notably very apparent in todays fashion. 100% of the shops entered had pastel items being sold. In some shops such as Topshop, the pastel trend could be very easily recognised, and quite possibly was the trend most stocked in store. It could be argued that the reason for this is the change over into the spring/summer wardrobe. Nevertheless, sweatshirts, jackets and beanie hats not suitable for this season could also be seen in pastel colours. It can be determined that the target consumer for pastels is mainly young women, as this is the also the target consumer for Topshop. However, pastel items could also be found in the mens section. Something else to consider, is that not only high street stores were observed, but a charity shop was also taken into consideration. In the charity shop it was noticed that all the pastel garments were displayed together upon entrance. The store manager said the reason for this was that she has â&#x20AC;&#x153;noticed that pastels have been particularly popular this springâ&#x20AC;? and she predicts that with summer upcoming they will further increase in popularity.

STYLING SHOOT The styling shoot features two, young adult, female models, wearing six different outfits between them. The models were chosen because they are a true representation of the target market for this trend. The outfits worn demonstrate the pastel trend in many different aspects. For example, one model wears a suit which traditionally is seen as formal, however in this case is shown in a contemporary way because it isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t tailored to fit, and is worn with no shirt underneath. This gives the traditional, feminine way in which pastels are perceived, a more edgy and rebellious quality. The other outfits also include, a casual pink body-con dress, a yellow denim skirt, as well as other items of pastel clothing which show how the traditional trend has been taken and adapted to the styles and attitudes of the 21st century. The setting for the shoot was on a rooftop of a car park, in the city centre of Nottingham. The urban setting contrasted the stereotypical delicacy of the trend. The reasoning for the choice of location was because since the trend has re-emerged from the 1950s, it has had a slightly more urban and rebellious take in aspects such as design and material, and this has therefore been reflected in the location. The stance and poses of the models also reflect this, as they are posing in a powerful ways, contrasting the stereotype of women in the 1950s. The rebellious and urban aspects of the photo shoot therefore allows the marketing of the trend to change peoples stereotypical perception of pastels and perhaps open the trend to a new target audience.

VOGUE EDITORIAL

PASTEL POWER ADD SOME EDGE TO YOUR OFFICE LOOK THIS SUMMER Dress it down with trousers and a tee, and add a blazer for a more sophisticated look... Or take a risk and go super edgy wearing the blazer/trouser combo without a t- shirt underneath.

Lilac distressed jeans, £28, ASOS Nike airforce, £74.95, Nike White bandeau, £8, Missguided sunglasses, £5, ASOS

“PINK TO MAKE THE BOYS WINK” Pretty but Playful. Put a spring in your step and add pastels to your outfit to brighten up your urban look this summer.

Bodycon Dress, £5, Pretty Little Thing White denim Jacket, £25, Pull and Bear Slip ons, £50, Vans Sunglasses, £4, ASOS Pair a pink dress with an oversized white denim jacket, or switch it up with distressed lilac jeans to give your pretty pastel look a more edgy vibe.

Blue dyed denim jacket, £40, Pull and Bear Adidas slogan tee, £25, ASOS marketplace White mini skirt, £25, TopShop Sunglasses, £4, ASOS Bag, £8, ASOS

DENIM DAYDREAM 26

Yellow denim skirt, £30, Topshop New York slogan tee, £20, ASOS Marketplace Sunglasses, £5, ASOS Bumbag, £10, ASOS

ADD THE SUNNY SUMMER SKIES TO YOUR DAYWEAR DENIM THIS SEASON! A yellow denim skirt, or a blue denim jacket is the perfect way to add primary colours into your summer wardrobe. Add a slogan tee, sunglasses and trainers to create the perfect vintage look.

CONCLUSION From this report it can be concluded that the pastel trend has been reintroduced from the 1950s with a less feminine touch than it originally did. The trend is no longer seen as delicate and pretty, but can be worn in a casual and edgy way. As well as, in a classy, sophisticated way, which means the trend is appealing to the masses. Pastels can also be seen in mens clothing, supporting the point that it is no longer stereotypically feminine. The success of the pastel trend can be seen by the press coverage, and social media exposure of celebrities and influencers wearing the trend. Celebrities such as Victoria Beckham, Kylie Jenner and Rhianna, are constantly photographed by the press wearing pastels, each in their own style. This shows the success of the trend, as these celebrities are seen as fashion icons, therefore this makes the trend seen as very exclusive and glamorous. As well as this, pastels can be seen dominating high street stores. This implies it is not a trend just for the catwalk or for a-list celebrities, the trend is successful in high-street fashion as well.

THE FUTURE OF TRENDS When researching for this report it has become apparent that the future of trends is sustainability. With the world is constantly becoming more aware of ethical and environmental issues surrounding fashion trends. Events such as, the Rana Plaza factory collapsing in 2013, is causing people to demand that brands be more transparent in what they do. Ethical fashion is no longer a niche market, but is expected by consumers. Therefore, the future of fashion trends is brands taking ethical and sustainability issues and creating clothes that solve them. Using fair-trade cotton in garments, and marketing whole clothing lines made by sustainable materials is two ways in which this trend can be expected to develop in the future of fashion. The sustainability trend is one that cannot be ignored by brands as â&#x20AC;&#x153;66% of global Millennials are willing to spend more on brands that are sustainableâ&#x20AC;? (Businesses of fashion, 2018). This means that although this trend is already set in place, it will be the norm for all brands in the future.

APPENDIX 1 - street interview questions

Appendix 2 - Interview answers

Appendix 3 -concent forms

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LIST OF IMAGES

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