Issue #11: Road Trip Issue by Climberism Magazine

climberism THE NORTHEAST CLIMBING M A G A Z I N E

MAY | JUNE 2012

ROAD TRIP! ISSUE TOUR DE MAINE

WHERE THE QUÉBÉCOIS ROAM FREE

ACCESSORIZE YOURSELF | TWO BOTTLES OF WHISKEY | THE NORTHEAST HARDMAN |

MAY | JUNE

INSIDE THE MAG //

Contents

FUNNY SCHIST // The Northeast Hardman By AssholeClimbers.com

JASON GRAVER CLIMBING IN THE BAT CAVE, FARLEY, MA

VACATIONLAND // Maine’s Finest Rock By Eric Eisele

INTERVIEW // Vasya Vorotnikov Hard climber and aspiring chemical engineer

THE LIBRARY // Reading material for cold nights

GEAR REVIEW // Packs They carry our things

FOOD FOR CLIMBERS // Rye Whiskey We like it

QUEBEC CLIMBING // A Local’s Picks By David Savoie

ON THE COVER: Andy Gale scurries past the lesser insects on Ant’s Line 5.9+ Gunks, NY. Photo credit: Ben Carlson.

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CONTRIBUTORS //

climberism THE NORTHEAST CLIMB ING

MAGAZINE

MAY | JUNE ISSUE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

WORDS FROM THE LOCALS...

David Crothers ASSISTANT EDITOR

Jarred Cobb GRAPHIC DESIGN

Ray Kania & Dick Ritchie INTERN

Katie Williamson ADVERTISE

advertise@climberism.com

Erik Eisele Erik has no interest being scared, uncomfortable or on 40-degree snow, but he still hasn’t figured out how to give up climbing. He works as a reporter in northern New Hampshire, where he’s an ice climbing guide and regional coordinator for the Access Fund.

CONTRIBUTE

submissions@climberism.com SUBSCRIBE

climberism.com/new-subscribers/ HEADQUARTERS

Climberism Magazine P. O. Box 4563 Burlington, VT 05406 CONTACT US

info@Climberism.com

David Savoie For more then 10 years now, David Savoie has been working both journalism and climbing, dreaming of a Pulitzer and 5.14s. While living in delusion of grandeur, he’s maintaining a French blog on what’s happening in the climbing world and he’s an editor of a climbing mag as well.

Most of the activities depicted in this magazine carry significant amounts of risk with the potential for serious injury or death. We do not recommend you try or participate in any of the activities depicted within this publication. Seek professional guidance or help from someone of expertise. You assume all risks associated with your decision. Copyright Climberism. All Rights Reserved. No material in this publication may be reproduced without prior written consent.

MAY JUNE 2012

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EDITOR’S NOTE //

ROAD TRIPS are an essential part of becoming

NEW

Advance Tech HX

Progress Capture Pulley

a climber, would you agree? Otherwise, how would you define yourself as a climber if you’ve only climbed one style and only climbed in one area your whole existence? Who would we share our experiences with? How would we find the motivation to keep climbing the same routes over and over again? I don’t think it would make you any less of a climber but you would certainly miss out on some great climbing and miss out on meeting some of the interesting people that share our passion. To me, road trips are a must, breaking away from work, sorting and packing up all your gear, putting the car in drive and watching the world and the scenery go by -- it’s a big part of what makes me a climber.

PN 154900

The SMC Advance Tech HX Pulley is a double pulley with an integrated cam that provides immediate progress capture without the need of prussik loops. The all in one frame and cam design presents a compact form factor. Stainless pins retain the rope when a rigged system is packed so that system can be pulled out and used immediately. Manufactured from high quality aluminum and anodized to help prevent corrosion. The Advance Tech HX is the most advanced pulley of its kind on the market today. The Advance Tech HX will support ropes diameters from 7mm up to 12.5mm. The Advance Tech HX is ideal for all rescue applications where a small mechanical advantage system is being utilized.

For more information visit SMC on the web at www.SMCgear.com or your local PMI Dealer. 4

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My first climbing trip started in the San Juan’s of Southwest Colorado and continued across the Southwest climbing J-Tree splitters, before getting served in Yosemite and then on to relaxed clipping at Smith Rock. Road trips are defining moments in every climber’s life, they teach us how humbling the sport can be through our ancestral grandfathers who only new of grading climbs at 5.9+. Sharing memories with new people and passing on your favorite climbing stories are what road trips are all about. In the Northeast we are lucky to have a plethora of climbing areas, some of which are truly worthy of road tripping. For the last two seasons, I’ve been lucky enough to get an invite and participate in Nova Scotia’s boulderfest -- one of the premier bouldering events in the nation in my opinion. You can’t really beat climbing rock for two days with the ocean at your back and the rock quality makes the 14 hour drive from Burlington and 16 hours from New York completely worth it. What’s better than climbing with the people who climb at the same areas you do and discussing your favorite routes?

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JEAN-PIERRE

OUELLET

Jean-Pierre “Peewee” Ouellet making it look easy on Le Toit de Ben, 5.13a, while getting a belay from Sonnie Trotter, in Val-David, Quebec. Andrew Burr photo

fusion

The Sterling Fusion Ion2 is my favorite rope. It's easy to clip, handles well and is very lightweight. Sterling = Performance without sacrifice on durability.

ion2

size weight impact force falls 9.4mm 57g/M 8.1kN 5

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w w w| .MAGAZINE s t e r l i n g r o p e . c5 o m climberism

FUNNY SCHIST // THE NORTHEAST HARDMAN In March 2012, AssholeClimbers and Climberism announced a strategic partnership to their shareholders ahead of their muchanticipated IPO debut on the New York Rock Exchange. Starting this month, we will feature an exclusive work of brilliance from AssholeClimbers.com, which will continue until we get sick of them for being such huge assholes... Anyone who has spent enough time climbing in the Northeast has heard the list of climbers that seems to precede every guidebook entry. The names of Strand, Cote, and Barber are ubiquitous for their ascents of the hard granite of North Conway, while Smith, Graham, and Sprague lay claim to the realm of schist further south. But every climber who gets their name in a guidebook or their picture in a magazine, whether they know it or not, owes everything they have ever achieved to one man. Now, in an Asshole Climbers-Climberism exclusive, we pull back the veil on the history of the most reclusive and enigmatic figure in Northeast climbing history: John Henry Barbchard. Some say he was conceived one cold winter’s night when the Old Man of the Mountain had a bit too much to drink and got a little hands-y with the Black Dike. A few months later he emerged from his mother’s womb on a belay ledge midway up WhitneyGilman. He took a moment to enjoy the view before soloing to the top. After a quick snack on blueberries, he rapped down on his umbilical cord and hitched a ride into town to get a beer. During his misguided youth, he experimented with drugs, rock and roll, and sport climbing. After being expelled from grade school for excessive cursing and hitting on teachers, John Henry later went on to graduate from the School of Hard Rocks, a now defunct organization started by John Gill, a gecko and a Capuchin monkey with a drinking problem. His graduating GPA was 5.15.

FA of Jaws I. Too hardcore (and poor) to purchase his own trad rack, he fashioned his own pro out of springs from his mattress and an old car that was abandoned on the side of the Kancamangus. While his only true love has always been the rock, John Henry had a brief fling with a human female and lost his virginity on a rainy day in Maine, while developing lines on a secluded, backwoods cliff. Throughout the day and into the night, his passion was split between making sweet love and putting up first ascents. As a result, we now know that area as Shagg Crag. These days, he travels around the region in his beat-up old Ford Ranger looking for new routes to finish, sending your projects as warm-ups, running it out big time and making you feel inadequate. Some Useful John Henry Barbchard Trivia:

- He never wears tape gloves because they make his hands too soft. - He often free-solos because he claims the rock likes it better “when he doesn’t use protection.” - He was the first person to use the privy in the parking lot at Rumney - he took a leak against the outer wall. - He uses his palms to hammer in pitons and would clean them with his teeth, if he ever followed a pitch. - He did the first Hardman linkup of Cathedral, Whitehorse, and Cannon in a day... shoeless. -When he climbs in Maine, he doesn’t bring food. He just steals it from the Pine Martens. - He does not project routes. Routes project him.

Go to www.assholeclimbers.com forPata Bagley dose Photos by of humor, sarcasm, and straight-up He briefly flirted with bolting on rappel, but then quit debauchery. sport climbing cold turkey after he sent both Jaws II and Jaws III, several years before Dave Graham got the 6

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One of the only photos of the Northeast Hardman, John Henry Barbchard. Taking a break for lunch after soloing every ice route on Cannon.

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FIRST ANNUAL NORTHEAST CLIMBING

VIDEO CONTEST

PRESENTED BY: SPONSORED BY:

1st Place

2nd Place

+ CASH PRIZE

3rd Place

4th Place

5th Place

+ CASH PRIZE

$500, AAC MEMBERSHIP, $200, AAC MEMBERSHIP, $100, AAC MEMBERSHIP, ALPINE RIDER HELMET and LANIN JACKET and 2 PHOENIX ROPES & TRION GUIDE 45

X-SHOT HEADLAMP

or equal/greater value alternative item

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MAY JUNE 2012

submission deadline - OCT 9TH, 2012 • send entries to SUBMISSIONS@CLIMBERISM.COM • for more information and rules - WWW.CLIMBERISM.COM/VIDEO-CONTEST

Endeez

ACCIDENT REPORT // DEATH ON POMME D’OR On March 10, Philippe Eynaudi died while ice-climbing the famous Pomme d’Or in Quebec. His death stunned the province climbing community and while some looked for the guilty party - most were sad by the loss of a fellow climber.

Philippe and his partner had an early start and they climbed fast. At about 9:30am both had already climbed the first five pitches and were starting the difficult vertical sections near the top. The ice was tricky and mushroomy. Philippe, leading, placed a first screw not long after the belay station and pushed on for about 30 feet. Moments after, his partner (name withheld) saw Philippe fly down headfirst and hit the ice ledge violently. When he pulled Philippe to him, he was unconscious and looked like he came out of a bar brawl.

After 5 long and difficult rappels, Philippe – still unconscious – and his partner got stuck due to a badly jammed Prusik, and Philippe’s weight prevented him from freeing it. At the same moment, André Binette and Anne-Isabelle Cuvillier arrived on the scene without knowing the tragedy unfolding over them. Their goal was to climb the Pomme d’Or the next day. They soon heard the cry for help and quickly proceeded to help the stranded climbers. Soon after, the pair reached the ground; it was now 4pm but Philippe showed no sign of life. Anne-Isabelle tried to call 911 but no cell phone signals are available in the park due to its remoteness. She ended up walking 10 miles before reaching someone on a snowmobile, who eventually called rescuers. Philippe was then transported to the hospital where he was pronounced dead at 10pm, more than 12 hours after his fall. The autopsy showed he actually died a few minutes after impact from multiple brain lesions. He leaves in mourning a girlfriend, parents and many friends. His partner, when contacted, was still under shock and unsure if he’ll get over his tragic experience.

By Ian Bergeron, Editor of EscaladeQuebec.com. Photo: André Binette

The Endeez rope end-icator was designed to aid climbers with a quick physical means of identifying their rope ends as they are rappelling, belaying, climbing or handling rope. Ideal for use as a back-up knot while climbing, providing quick identification of rope ends or as a physical marker while working on or with rope. Endeez provide users with exceptional performance in the simplest form as a physical link between the rope and the climber.

MAY JUNE 2012

For more information visit www.SMCGEAR.net climberism | MAGAZINE 9 or call 360.366.5534

LOCAL LEGEND // VASYA VOROTNIKOV

hat hasn’t Vasya Vorotnikov been up to lately? He recently took a weekend trip to Boulder, Colorado, won first place at the SCS National Championship and was back to work on Monday morning. He certainly hasn’t been sitting around waiting for titles to come to him... Using his internal Russian power, Vasya has been crushing comps like I crush beer cans. Last summer, Vasya won the UBC’s Central Park comp with ease and took home the win during the Nor’easter in Burlington, Vermont. And if you missed it, he nearly placed first during the Ring of Fire lead climbing competition at Central Rock Gym in Hadley, Massachusetts. GOING FOR THE WIN // SCS NATIONAL CHAMPIONSHIP PHOTO CREDIT // CAROLINE TREADWAY - USA CLIMBING

HEY VASYA, YOU’RE ALL OVER THE PLACE THESE DAYS. DO YOU LIVE ON THE ROAD?

Umm, no. I’m actually at work right now while talking to you. WHERE ARE YOU WORKING?

The University or Delaware, I’m a grad student. I am studying Chemical Engineering SO YOU’RE ONE OF THOSE SMART CLIMBER GUYS... HOW DOES IT FEEL TO HAVE JUST WON THE SCS?

It felt pretty good (laughs), and it still feels pretty good. WHAT DOES IT MEAN FOR YOU NOW? WHAT’S THE NEXT STEP?

My plan has been to try and do the World Cup, I was just going to wait and see how I did here and see if I can go to any events. I’m likely not able to go to a lot of them because of time commitments; with school it’s going to be kind of impossible. Definitely going to go to the one in Atlanta; the only one on US soil. I’m considering the world championship in Paris, that’s like the biggest event for sport climbing, lead climbing, everything.

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WHEN DOES THAT TAKE PLACE?

Both of those are in September. It’s Paris and then Atlanta about two weeks later. SO ONCE AGAIN, DO YOU LIVE ON THE ROAD?

Not as much as I would like (laughs). I’ve been doing the whole school thing, so I haven’t been able to travel as much as I used to. TELL ME A BIT ABOUT SCHOOL; WHAT’S YOUR GOAL WITH CHEMICAL ENGINEERING?

The goal is probably to do some kind of national lab or research and development kind of position, or even go in the academia track. I narrowed it down just to that. SO THAT’S A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENT FROM A LOT OF CLIMBERS IN SCHOOL, WHO ARE MORE FOCUSED ON THE GEOLOGY SIDE OF SCIENCE.

Yeah it is, but climbing is always going to be a part of my life no matter where I go. And there are definitely a few engineers out there, Zach Lerner is one, I think, mechanical engineer.

I’M SURE IT TAKES UP A LOT OF TIME, HOW DO YOU MANAGE

I just went to this comp for the weekend, and I basically finished up reports on Friday before the competition. I try and do weekend trips, you could say I’m like a weekend warrior. (laughs) YOU’RE ALSO COMING BACK FROM AN INJURY. WHAT HAPPENED?

Right after Nor’easter last year, I got psyched and I went and started super hard indoors. Less than a week after, I ended up tearing my shoulder. It’s what’s called a slap tear; it’s a ligament tear in your shoulder. It’s the same kind of injury as Ethan Pringle, and he ended up getting surgery. Mine wasn’t as severe, and after three months I found out exactly what it was because it took me forever to get a MRI. I underwent a whole month of physical therapy, and I was headed toward surgery but I started climbing just to see what the pain level was, because after physical therapy I felt pretty good. If the shoulder doesn’t feel bad, why would I go and just get surgery? I progressed over a month in climbing, and started pushing my shoulder even more and it never got bad again. I’m crossing my fingers.

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BUTT BONGO FIESTA // RUMNEY, NEW HAMPSHIRE ARE YOU PRETTY STRICT WITH YOURSELF IN TERMS OF FREE TIME VERSUS CLIMBING VERSUS SCHOOL?

PHOTO CREDIT // BRYON MARTIN

I’m pretty strict with myself going to school. In terms of climbing I go as often as possible. Preparing for comps I get pretty strict. For the past couple of weeks leading up to the comp my preparation was running. NO STRENGTH TRAINING? NO BEER?

I definitely don’t drink preparing for a competition. I also don’t do any weight lifting or anything like that. Especially for sport climbing I try and do a bunch of running, and maybe closer to the competition I try to do up to eight miles once or twice and then run three miles every other day. AND YOU FEEL LIKE THAT HELPS YOU ENOUGH?

Yeah, definitely. At competitions I feel like the most important thing is to be in good shape because once you get to a certain level it’s about how good of shape you’re in. Weight is definitely a factor, but that’s partially why you run to try and get some of that beer belly off. It’s basically maintenance and feeling good for the comp. SO DID YOU CRACK A BEER AFTER THE COMP?

Definitely. (laughs) I NOTICED YOU PLACED 10TH IN SPEED CLIMBING. IT’S OBVIOUSLY ANOTHER BALL GAME, BUT HOW DO YOU FEEL IT’S DIFFERENT?

In general I actually climb pretty fast and I used to do really well in speed climbing. Last time I competed in speed climbing was five years ago or so. They changed the rules so they standardized the routes and everything for the whole world, so everyone climbs on the same holds now. This was the first time I touched these holds. I think I was sort of at a disadvantage, I think I would have done a bit better if I had trained for it a bit.

CLIMBING AT HAYCOCK // DOYLESTOWN, PENNSYLVANIA PHOTO CREDIT // DREW DAVIS

YOU’RE NOT JUST A COMP CLIMBER? YOU DO GET OUTSIDE?

Yeah those are going to be my weekend trips when I don’t compete. I’ll head back to the New because that’s probably the closest place besides the Gunks. It’ll be mostly weekend trips and hopefully a week or two long trips over the summer. HAVE YOU PUT UP ANY NEW ROUTES OR HAVE ANY NEW PLANS TO DO THAT?

At the New there are a bunch of super hard bolted climbs already, I definitely have a couple of projects. One I’ve been thinking about a lot is this one at Summerville lake, I think it’s the tallest climb there, it goes right off a classic 5.13 called The Pod, it’s probably going to go at 5.14d or something like that. HAVE YOU GOTTEN ON IT BEFORE?

Yeah I have, I was actually in good bouldering shape back then and was barely able to do the moves, that’s how I could tell it was going to be a hard grade. I think the project is called Full Metal Brisket. WELL SOUNDS LIKE YOU’VE GOT SOME WORK CUT OUT FOR YOU. CRACK A BEER VASYA. YOU DESERVE ANOTHER.

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NORTHEAST NEWSWIRE // http://www.climberism.com/ climber-dies-at-the-gunks/ Twenty two-year-old Stephanie Prezant died after a fall on Easy Keyhole at the Gunks. It was her first time climbing, and contributing factors to the accident appear to be an absence of a helmet and an improperly constructed toprope anchor. Stephanie was set to graduate this spring from the University of Delaware, and the Northeast climbing community was shocked and saddened to hear of her passing. Climberism, on behalf of all climbers, offers its deepest condolences to her family and friends.

http://www.climberism.com/ringof-fire-comp/ Central Rock Gym’s Hadley, Massachusetts location unveiled its first ever sport climbing competition, complete with a big crowd and some gnarly routes. Sasha DiGiulian and Alex Johnson beat out a strong field of climbers to grab the top prize--$5,000 and achampion’sring.We’reespecially excited about the growing presence of Sasha at Northeast climbing comps, where she’s sure to become a fixture now that she’s moving to NYC!

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Thacher State Park, just east of Albany, New York. There are nearly 3 miles of undeveloped cliffs, landlocked by private property. The Coalition was warmly received by New York State Parks staff at a public hearing and will continue to work hard to free up a mouth watering stretch of rock. http://www.climberism.com/atribute-to-joe-szot-and-all-hesdone/ The Northeast climbing community suffered a huge loss with the death of Joe Szot in March. His “larger than life” personality, countless first ascents and generous hospitality will be sorely missed. The Bivy--a space that Joe rented out for ice climbers to crash and dry their gear--was a cornerstone of Northeast ice climbing. We stayed there. We shared whiskey with him. We are honored to have too briefly known such a great man.

http://www.climberism.com/ help-open-john-boyd-thacherstate-park-in-new-york-toclimbing/ The newly formed Thacher Climbing Coalition is working with the Access Fund to open up a section of the John Boyd

http://www.climberism.com/ second-ascent-of-cannon-cliffsdaedalus/ New, hard ice and mixed routes at Cannon Cliff were the news at the tail end of this winter season. Daedalus (M7+) was established by Bayard Russell and Elliot Gaddy, next to the famous Wilcox/Bouchard Icarus line. Peewee Ouelette, Damien Cote and Yannick Girard completed the second ascent less than a month later, documenting the intensity of the climb with their trusty video camera.

http://www.climberism.com/ ty-landman-establisheshard-northeast-v14-boulderproblem/ Ty Landman put up a V14 in his native Connecticut. The problem has no name. We don’t know where it is. That’s just the way he’d like it.

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FOCUS • Trad climbing versatility • All-day comfort • Abrasion resistant

Alex Honnold, Blockbuster (5.12+), Owens River Gorge, CA. BEN DITTO

• Maximum racking space

MAY JUNE 2012

BlackDiamondEquipment.com

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GEAR REVIEW // PACKS NEW VAUDE ROCK ULTRALIGHT 35L PACK I was skeptical of this pack when it was handed to me by Mr. Editor. It is super light. Like one of those bags you get for free with a pair of sneakers. The material felt like the silk sheets my weird college roommate had. “No way this thing will last,” I thought to myself. The Vaude Rock Ultralight pack is the first rock-specific bag I’ve owned. Before it, my ice pack doubled as my year-round carrier of gear. Hence my hesitation with its weight. But, so far it has held up well through the early spring season thrown our way in the Northeast. It has taken abuse. Its 35 liters have been filled to the brink with cams, nuts, rope and water bottles. My dog used it as a bed when the ground got wet at the crag. Left in the rain and sun, the only signs of wear are a couple pulls in the fabric and the inevitable smell. Beyond its durability, the Rock Ultralight has utility. Two zippered pockets in the lid are a nice touch. The top pocket is smaller but great for durable goods, the mesh one underneath is a perfect stash for my lunch. Two drawcords cinch the opening and the entire pack tight. The back panel is cushioned and comfy, but can also be removed, enabling the whole pack to be folded up and fit inside the aforementioned mesh pocket. For the price, I’d recommend it. Just don’t go throwing an ice tool inside. www.vaude.com - $90

BLACK DIAMOND EPIC 45L PACK With 45L of internal space, the Epic 45 can hold more than enough gear for a days outing while remaining simple enough in design to make storage easy and quick. The top loading compartment has a huge opening and is easily compressed or expanded to accommodate the load. The few extra pockets that this bag does have are nicely tucked into the lid, but remain accessible and make a great place to stash some sandals to get out of your shoes while belaying. The main feature that sets this bag apart from its peers is Black Diamond’s ergoACTIV suspension which is lightweight but sturdy and effective. The main thing you’ll notice upon a glance is the pivoting lumbar support. The padded straps are attached at the center point to a pivoting base which allows the straps to move more naturally with your body, instead of rubbing up against your hips and dreaded love handles you’ve acquired over a winter away from climbing. Should you need a little more rigidity, you can always cinch up a few straps and the lumbar support is restricted from swaying like Elvis Presley. Other Important Features: Hydration compatible, welded crampon patch and ice tool pockets for all season use, three point haul system, tuck away rope strap, rip stop nylon construction, emergency whistle built into chest strap www.blackdiamondequipment.com - $190

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GEAR REVIEW // PACKS PATAGONIA BLACK HOLE DUFFEL 90L When one thinks of a black hole, I would assume they think about a galaxies demise and anything else doomed by it’s ungodly gravitational pull; or they think about Patagonia’s duffel bag. The Black Hole is a suitable name for the 90L duffel because just about everything you need on a climbing trip can fit into it and you can strap it to your back, not very comfortably, but it can be done. Aside from everything ending up at the bottom of the pack when you strap it on, it’s an ideal choice over a suitcase. I recently headed on a two-week climbing trip out west and had way too much gear to stack in my climbing pack: multiple pairs of shoes, triple rack, jackets, two shorts and one pair of pants that were sacrificed for pleasurable off-widths. With the copious amounts of gear you can fit in this thing you can leave the suitcase at home. The outer material is durable and waterproof so the airline employees that so “carefully” handle your luggage don’t stand a chance at destroying it; that is unless you stowed a 12 pack of bottle goodness. Anyway, this is a practical bag with storage compartments inside and out for razors and toothpaste, etc. but I probably wouldn’t bring it on a trip where I needed to keep everything neat, like a wedding or a bar mitzvah. It’s a climbing duffel that travels well and on your back. Enough said. www.patagonia.com - $130

EDITOR’S CHOICE WILD THINGS 26L GUIDE PACK Some packs are just that: packs. The Wild Things Guide Pack doesn’t fit into the “just a pack” category, it’s in a class of it’s own. I struggled coming up with something to say about the Guide Pack, not because anything was wrong with it, but because it is just so damn kick ass! Strap your skis on it a-frame style, check. Ice axes holsters, check. Crampon holsters, check. Removable lid, check. Expandable to fit more gear when needed, check. Waterproof, check. Durable, check. Just about everything on the Guide has buckles so you can easily adjust your gear the way you want to. It makes so much sense to design a pack like this. Without buckles you’re limited to how far open you can adjust your straps, which if you’re carrying a big load or bulky items, it kind of sucks to deal with. A simple buckle systems makes packing your bag much easier. This isn’t a camping pack and you’d be hard-pressed putting all your climbing and camping gear in it. At 26 liters, the Guide Pack is just right for a couple a long days out multi-pitching at Cannon or bringing a client up Katahdin. Another reason to support these guys is because they manufacture all their goods in the U.S.A, right here in the Northeast! www.wildthingsgear.com - $175

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GEAR REVIEW // PACKS NEW MILLET COULOIR 30L LITE PACK I hate packs that are so niche designed that they become useless. Examples of this include winter climbing packs without ski straps, ski packs without ice tool loops, or daypacks with no external attachment capacity. Luckily, the Millet Couloir transitions seamlessly between sports. In the course of testing this pack it was used it for ice climbing, skiing, cragging and hiking. With stretchy water bottle pockets, a top rope-strap, extendable neck, and two ways to carry skis, the Couloir can carry as much equipment as some 45L packs. For its size, the pack’s support is solid. The only time I felt that the support was insufficient was while carrying skis, two wet ropes, a rack, tools, belay jacket, and snacks/water. But there are few, if any, other 30L packs that could even fit that much gear, let alone carry it comfortably. All in all this pack is a perfect day/summit/ski/crag/ultra-lite pack that can be used for most combinations of outdoor sports without a loss of function. www.millet.fr - $100

Nik Berry | Aspiring RN | Big Wall Free Climber | Salt Lake City, UT At OR we know finding balance takes hard work. So does Nik Berry, an aspiring RN who traded the nomadic climber’s lifestyle to burn through pre-requisites on his path to nursing school. For a guy who redpointed Yosemite’s “ledge-to-ledge” version of the Salathé Wall as a first “team-free” ascent (VI 5.13d), camping out in a library to study for Anatomy and Physiology midterms was a bit of a mindshift. But the Utah-only limit forced Nik to climb locally, leading to the first free ascent of Wonderboy (5.13c) on Lone Peak and Lunar X (5.13) in Zion. This dual focused lifestyle has given him a new appreciation for time on the rock, and a flexible profession he can take from town to town. Learn more at outdoorresearch.com.

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MAY JUNE 2012

GEAR REVIEW // ACCESSORIES LIFEPROOF IPHONE CASE The Lifeproof case will help you escape from Alcatraz, seriously, some eight-year old did it. And he was able to take photos, make calls, status update, listen to music, and surf the web...all while escaping the fuzz; by escaping the fuzz we mean participating in Swim FAST 2012: the Alcatraz & Golden Gate Bridge Swims. BUT STILL. This case is pretty sweet, it'll protect your iPhone from dirt, water, snow, and your clumsiness. Accessories for it include an adapter compatible with GoPro, when you want to strap the phone to your helmet, armband, bike mount and belt clip for all your crazy adventures. MSRP: $79.99

VAPUR WATER BOTTLE

NEW

For all you climbers constantly running your mouths about light-weight gear, may I turn your attention to Vapur’s Anti-Bottle? The Element is their most recent product, designed in .7L and 1L sizes created to meet the H2O demands of athletes and anyone living an active outdoor lifestyle. This fold-able, reusable, freezable, and washable plastic water bottle is equipped with an integrated attachment clip that allows it to tag along on high altitude adventures. The Element is a great alternative to a clunky hard plastic bottle because as soon as it is empty it can be folded up and stowed away, not dangling from your rack banging against your C4s. MSRP: $11.99/.7L and $13.99/1L.

MAY JUNE 2012

NEW

FRUITION PROBAR

And the gluten-free trend continues with ProBar’s reformulation of their popular Fruition bars, which will now replace all older Fruition bars on the shelves with a new gluten-free bar. These fruitdense, 150-calorie snack bars pack a whole serving of fruit and are now independently certified gluten-free. As with the rest of the ProBar lineup, the new Fruition gluten-free bars are still vegan friendly, certified organic and contain no GMOs. A new flavor has been added to the line up-chocolate orange-and some new packaging. These things are good for when you’re sitting around or or topping out your favorite multi-pitch. PRICE: $1.79

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to air is

human

to send

divine

Sasha DiGiulian becoming the first American woman to climb 5.14d with Pure Imagination. When you’re pushing your limits, taking falls is part of the game. That’s why Sasha ties in with Petzl ropes for routes like Pure Imagination, in the Red River Gorge, Kentucky. FUSE 9.4mm

www.petzl.com

GEAR REVIEW // ACCESSORIES KIT’S ORGANIC BARS

NEW

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Kit Crawford AKA "fist lady" of Clif Bar & Company, is cooking something up in the kitchen. This June she will release a new line of gluten-free, soy-free, and dairy-free organic fruit and nut bars all for 200 calories or less, and we can't wait for you to try them. Kit's passion for organic farming, an active lifestyle, and sustainable farming comes in some tasty flavors including berry almond, cashew, chocolate almond coconut (YUM), and peanut butter, and they are equally as simple as they are delicious, each bar containing just four to six ingredients.

While we sit and wait for the rock to dry in this lovely rainy season, NIKWAX is churning out new products to make sure our gear will stay dry while we do it. Their new Tent & Gear Solarproof Concentrate will protect your gear from any future sun damage, increase fabric strength and add a serious amount of water repellent, doubling your backpack/hydration pack/tent/patio furniture's effective life. Their new formula is concentrated so you'll have more than enough supply to treat all your synthetic summer essentials. Lets get ready for the rainy season!

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GEAR REVIEW // TRAINING BLANK SLATE CLIMBING TRAINING BOARD

MAY JUNE 2012

I used to have a hangboard, and then I moved to a place where installing it above a door was out of the question -- it just wouldn't work. So I installed a pull-up bar, which worked nicely until the winter months came and it was used for drytooling -- shards of metal add for extra grip but also tear the skin. Then came along Blank Slate’s Climbing Training Board. I was psyched to set it up until it took me over an hour to do. I don’t know, maybe it’s just me but a video would have been nice. Blank Slate has done a great job, but I think a couple more screws in The Mantra (hangboard feature) would provide much more security. It flexed a lot and so doesn’t the whole board; that took some getting used to but rest assured, this thing isn’t going anywhere. It seems like every time a friend swings by the office, this thing is in use; we can’t keep people off it! Campusing, pull-ups, finger workouts are no problem. Now, if Blank Slate could only do something about the price... $250-$300 seems like a lot to the average dirtbag. climberism | MAGAZINE

SUPPORTING CLIMBERS LIKE NEVER BEFORE Advocacy: Fighting for Climbers' Rights Conservation: Protecting the Places We Climb $10,000 Rescue Benefits Free Guidebook Checkout: 20,000 Volumes American Alpine Journal & Accidents in North American Mountaineering Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch and Lodging around the World And heaps more...

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YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;VE NEVER SEEN THE AAC LIKE THIS

Andrew Burr

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GEAR TALK// THE ACCESS PAGE

Ragged Mountain Foundation

C3PA Climbing Conservency of Central Pennsylvania

MAY JUNE 2012

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By David Savoie 22

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MAY JUNE 2012

QUEBEC CLIMBING S’IL VOUS PLAîT If you’ve climbed in the Northeast, you’ve probably bumped into a Québécois, they’re all over the place. They’re the bright-eyed guys and gals who drive twice as long as you and still manage to get on rock before you’re even wake up. Have you ever wondered where they climb when they’re back home? Pull out your best French and see what Quebec, La Belle province, has to offer. North of New York and New England, there is a wide variety of rock, most being of surprisingly good quality. But why simply climb when you can enjoy the Québécois experience? David Savoie serves as your tour guide and takes you to the best spots in Quebec and apres climbing hangouts. A quick note on the topos: most of them are in French, with a small English section, if you are lucky. But don’t worry, your average Québécois climber will gladly help you out.

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Kamouraska Located just by the St. Lawrence River, past Quebec City, St. André-deKamouraska, or Kamou as known to most climbers in Quebec, is as close to Europe as you can get – minus the 7 hour plane ride. How would you like to pull on white limestone-like rock, pockets and edges, vertical and overhanging walls? Kamouraska has always been known to be a Quebec climbing jewel. The best season to go is whenever everything else is too warm. Because of its location, Kamouraska is always cooler than other crags in the province, with a nice breeze in June and July, that can turn into a biting wind by early October. Most of the routes are moderates, with the bulk of them ranging from 5.10 to 5.11+. The area is also interesting for beginners – and experienced climbers alike – as the easy stuff is just plain fun. Hardcore 5.13 climbers will fall short of inspiration in Kamou itself, with only one or two routes of the grade. But if you befriend the good locals, you might be able to tap into some routes that have yet to be fully exposed to the public. Climbing aside, Kamouraska has a unique feel to it. The views and the camping by

the river are mind blowing – read the best sunsets in Quebec – and the surrounding towns are charming. Microbreweries, bakeries, little cafés, all of this in old wooden houses of another era. In case you run out of hard lines to crush, consider stopping by La Pocatière, a small but steep crag by the road, not too far from Kamouraska. Home of Quebec’s first 5.14, La Poc will keep your power house climber happy.

THE BETA: The camping is a no-

brainer; it’s only a five-minute drive from the parking lot that faces the walls. You’ll have to purchase your day pass there. Make sure to reserve ahead of time: Kamou being a popular spot, can get crowded fast. You can also get fancy, and sleep in a nice inn, as they abound the area. On rest days, you’ll have plenty of options other than climbing. There are bike paths along the St. Lawrence, good hiking, as well as Breughel, a microbrewery nearby worth the visit. During the summer, there are frequent art exhibits to visit outside several restaurants. Have I mentioned the old-fashioned jam and bread you’ll find in the shops in town?

Julien S.Fleury on Prestation Aérienne, Kamouraska, 5.11a Photo By: Nicolas Charron

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Val-David The birthplace of climbing in Quebec is nothing short of awesome. A mere 45 minute drive from Montréal, you can find it all. The province’s hardest crack? Check. Boulder problems up to V12? Check. Technical climbing on merciless granite? Check. That’s right, all of this within walking distance. Even the odd sport climbing lines, most of which will get you sweating hard for the grade. Developed in the early 1930’s, Val-David remains to this day a growing crag, where new lines are bolted and boulders are brushed clean every season. But above all, it is still a superb rendezvous for trad lovers. With countless cracks, you may even leave behind some of your digits. From Le Sceptre, a nice face 5.8 + to gymnastic roof climbing, Le Toit de Ben, 5.13a, you can climb to your heart’s content. Sport climbers can also find some challenges, but you might as well just bring a pad, as ValDavid is probably the bouldering mecca in Quebec, with quality problems on crisp (and sharp) ego-shattering granite. The developments have outgrown the topo in recent years, so you may want

the locals to show you around if you wander outside the main areas, as some boulders are harder to find. Don’t worry if you find yourself shaking your head after being shut down on yet another problem: the forest is very condition-dependent. The minimal approach makes it a very attractive spot – at least for me, as I hate taking my pads for long walks when it’s nice out.

THE BETA:

Camping can be cruxy. Camp Laurentien is about the only place to throw your tent, and it’s a bit of a drive from the rock. Otherwise, there are a few options in terms of cheap hotels. While growing some skin back, you can enjoy the town’s downtown. You can rent kayaks and bikes to explore the area. Food-wise, the market is fine for your crag’s needs, but make sure to stop by the cafés in town. Le Mouton noir provides the best breakfasts. Ask for directions to get to the local bakery, La Vagabonde, the fresh croissants are to die for. Val-David doesn’t yet have a good post-climbing-bar to hang out at, but you’ll find several bistros that can do the job. It’s reminiscent, in a lot of ways, of Burlington, VT, but with more French people.

Lots of green below Les Grands Jardins

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David Savoie on Ochra, Val-David 5.10a Photo By: Nicolas Charron

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Les Grands Jardins The name means “great gardens,” but it has little to do with gardening skills. Instead, bring your trad gear for multi pitches. Located in the area of Charlevoix, an hour away from Québec City, Grands Jardins has been popular since the 1970s. The spot is the closest to a zen meditation retreat on the rocks you can get. You may even be able to find inner peace, surrounded only by nature and good climbing. The 90 lines are wildly varied: chimney, dihedrals, cracks, slabs and even a few overhangs await you, with mostly moderate grades, scattered on three crags. You’ll get an outstanding view of the valley from the top. Some of them, facing west, allow you to bathe in the sun and make the most out of your day during the summer. The long-lasting sunlight is needed when tackling the long pitches of routes going up to 200 meters. Don’t forget the water. You can also get more adventurous on Mont du Gros-Bras - “big arms mountain” where climbers can lead up to 5.12 on alpine-like grounds. But don’t forget the headlamp, absails by night are not uncommon. Wherever you decide to go, you’ll want to get information about the state of the anchors, to avoid unpleasant surprises.

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THE BETA: Camping is a breeze,

as the government-operated campsite is right there. The downside is the cost. Expect to pay at least 20 dollars a night. If you don’t feel like putting up your tent, there are cabins as well. It’s not only about the climbing though: the area of Charlevoix has plenty to offer the outdoor enthusiasts. Hiking, kayaking, you name it. You could even go whale watching, if that tickles your fancy. The Charlevoix region is part of the World Biosphere Reserve, so you can expect wildlife in abundance. The nearest “big” city is Baie Saint-Paul. A tour will take you to plenty of shops, where local delicacy awaits you. From chocolate to cheese, along with local brews. Isn’t that the good life? Don’t expect a huge party scene. Instead, hit the bistro for a cozy atmosphere.

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The amazing views of Les Grands Jardins. Photo By: Ian Bergeron climberism | MAGAZINE

Thomas Lecuyer on ChĂŠrubin, Lac Boisseau, 5.12a Photo By: Nicolas Charron

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Laurentians This isn’t a crag per se. It’s an area just north of Montréal with small crags all located within reasonable driving distance. Interestingly, every wall has a very unique feel to it. Whether you’re climbing by a lake or deep in the woods, the Laurentians never fail to provide a great experience. The technical climbing always keeps you on your toes. Not so bad for rock that’s a billion years old. The Cap des Pères has 35-meter pump-fest face climbs, whereas Lac Boisseau is reminescent of Southeastern sandstone, with very slopey holds. Montagne d’Argent provides climbers with ridiculous slabs and clean cracks, and Weir completes the picture, with long and cruxy routes. All of the walls are aesthetically pleasing, some of them streaked with orange or others consisting of pitch black rock, which add to the experience. Winter climbing is best left to the most motivated climbers, spring being much more welcoming. Needless to say, fall is prime time for climbing in the Laurentians. Trad and sport climbers of most levels will find something that suits them – except your mutant friend that feeds on 5.14s, who probably won’t find much to chew on besides a few unclimbed projects. Bring a 60-meter rope if you want to avoid surprises. The rock here is so good that you’ll find

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people from all over Quebec during busy weekends, some even driving a few hours to sink their fingers in the Laurentian. Depending on the year, crags will fall in and out of fashion, so the crowd density can be hard to predict, but it never gets crazy. After a good day of shredding your tips, you can also discover the joy of small local restaurants and bars to further master your skills in French, merci.

THE BETA: Depending on where

you end up, camping is either free, 10 dollars a night or nonexistent. Lac Boisseau is a free but basic spot. You’ll need to shell out a few bucks to stay at the base of the walls of Montagne d’Argent. And at the Cap des Pères, you’ll either have to get creative or drive a bit to find a place to stay. Same story on the food and entertainment side: if you’re looking for monasterylike silence and burner-cooked food, you’ll love Laurentians. Most people simply drive back and forth from Montréal. A good alternative would be to stay in Sainte-Adèle, a gateway to the area where you can have most of what you need: good restaurants, bars and hotels, while still being surrounded by nature.

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Mathieu Fontaine on Gazoline, Orford, 5.14a Photo By: Nicolas Charron

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MAY JUNE 2012

Orford Located in the Eastern Township area, it’s a stone’s throw away from the States. You’ll either love it or hate it. I happen to love it for several reasons. This crag is very convenient: it probably has the highest concentration of hard sport routes in the province. In fact, it also has a great concentration of routes period, with more than 60 of all levels. Granted, the hike will seem to last forever, but once you’re up, it’s pure fun. Nature was considerate of climbers here: some parts of the wall remain in the shade when the sun is blistering in the summer, and the dark rock of the main face allows climbing early in the spring and very late in the season – some call it winter. While the rock may not always be of the best quality (read: sometimes chossy), the routes are varied: face climbing leading to overhanging airy headwall with a technical finish is your typical route in Orford. A beginner could quickly be bored with few routes in the low grades, but if you climb 5.10 and up, you’ll be sure to find exciting lines to try, as classics abound. Not only is the view astounding, the crag itself gives you the impression of great altitude, as you may find yourself battered by gushing winds, on the crux of yet another long 5.11, 5.12 or 5.13. If you feel like it, there’s a boulder field nearby that could keep you busy for a few days. But you’d be missing the main event.

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THE BETA:

There are plenty of options for lodging. Expensive campsites can be found right by the crag, and there is a motel literally two minutes away from the parking. At the end of the day, you can head to Magog, a laid-back city nearby. With its good food and pubs, it’s the best place to share your post-climbing stories. On rest days, pick whatever activity you’d like, wakeboarding or vineyard tours, depending on what you fancy. If you want to make sure every muscle in your body is ready to crank, hit the Nordic Station, a popular spa in the area. Magog is also home to the only native art museum in Québec. Bistros and cafés are all over downtown, with plenty of Italian restaurants. For beer lovers, La Memphré is a microbrewery well worth stopping by.

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Tour de Maine

FOUR STOPS WORTH A d n a l n io t a c a v in N DAM le By: Erik Eise

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IT’S known for lighthouses and lobster,

pine trees and Portland. It is not the Granite State, and it is a long drive from the Gunks or the Dacks, so it might seem a strange destination for a climbing trip. But speckled along the coast and among the hills are a smattering of fantastic cliffs and climbs, sometimes smaller and always less trafficked than their counterparts to the west. With single-pitch sport routes on par with the best in the East and only a few hours drive from granite, Maine is as good as anything out West; it might just be that Vacationland is the perfect spot to spend your two-week slice of freedom. Maine is for the kind of climbers who do it all. If you want to find out what Vacationland has to offer, throw the whole kit in the car and start driving north. It isn’t just for sport climbers, the granite trad line of the South Wall is too good to miss. It isn’t just for trad climbers either, because the overhanging bolted routes at Shagg Crag and Shell Pond are too fun not to fall off of. And don’t just bring your crash pad, because the long alpine lines up Katahdin are just itching for one more send. But don’t skip the evening bouldering sessions along Acadia’s coast, where it’s just the sea breeze between you and the lip. Put in for the time at work, pack up the station wagon, find a cat-sitter and take to the road. While Vacationland is tattooed on every license plate in the state it doesn’t mean a thing until it applies to you.

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FIRST STOP:

SHELL POND The first glimpse of the upper tier of Shell Pond comes as you are walking across an old dirt airstrip. It’s hard not to notice the roof. It’s on the right side of the wall, and on most mornings it casts an ominous shadow over the upper half of the routes below, like a warning for what is in store. Up until five years ago Shell Pond was best known as an ice climbing area. It had a few old bolted and mixed lines, and the lower slab had a good selection of routes, but it wasn’t until Ray Rice and Bayard Russell from the nearby Mount Washington Valley renewed Shell development that things really got rolling. Rice and Russell, along with a handful of others, added a number of bolted 10s, 11s and 12s, some of which are ropestretchers with a 60m length. The climbing and moves are excellent, often beginning as vertical face climbs and then transitioning to steep terrain. Some of the routes have an airy feel rare for eastern sport climbing, particularly when the leaves have left the trees and the lactic acid is boiling. The upper tier is made up of two steep sections, the Sarlacc Area, where the approach trail first meets the cliff, and the Rumpus Buttress on the right side of the cliff, divided by a section of more moderate climbing. The two steep areas house the bulk of the 5.12s, including the classics Wild Rumpus (12a), Bomb Shell (12c) and their variations Two Nuts For You (12b), Sarlacc (12b) and Two Suns (12a). In between are a number of excellent lines like Pollo Del Mar (11b) and Erosion Control (11c/d). The upper tier, however, is only half the story at Shell. For climbers looking for a more moderate outing, the lower slab, often called the Family Wall, has a day or two worth of 7s, 8s, 9s and 10s. The climbing can be footwork-intensive and technical, but the 80-foot cliff is perfect for toproping. Many of the routes are also leadable but require a couple pieces of trad gear to make it safe. One of the great things about Shell is that new routes are going up all the time. It is common to run into Rice or Russell out there alone, swinging from a fixed line, wielding a hammer and carrying a power drill. There are enough routes today for several days of fun, but don’t be surprised if there are more lines to climb by the time you are eligible for another two weeks on the road. 36

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Aaron Childs eats up Ray Riceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pollo Del Mar (5.11b). Shell Pond, Maine. Photo By: Patrick Bagley climberism | MAGAZINE

Bill Morse practices The Ritual (5.13a) way above Shagg Pond. Shagg Crag, Maine. Photo By: Patrick Bagley

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SECOND STOP:

SHAGG CRAG Tucked in the hills halfway between the towns of Norway and Rumford sits the crown jewel of Maine sport climbing: Shagg Crag. The cliff looms over Shagg Pond 40 minutes up a hiking trail on the side of Bald Mountain. It is the cliff every gym climber dreams about: consistently steep with big moves between big holds. The rock is solid, the bolts are plentiful, and the climbing is fantastic. The meat of the cliff is 5.12, so it is not a place for the uninitiated, but Shagg is the place to try routes above your paygrade. The main face has a dozen 5.12s a handful of 5.13s, an incredible 5.10 with a 5.11 extension, and several easier routes. Many of the climbs are equipped with fixed cable draws and steel biners, so commitment is next to zero, and the bolts are usually close enough together that it isn’t hard to reach the next one after a rest. For many lines at Shagg, the challenge is managing the pump on unrelentingly steep terrain, not any single move. It’s the kind of place where you might figure out every move on your first burn, and then spend another two days trying to link it all together. The classic lines, Ginseng (12c), Shagg It (12c/d) and Meltdown (12c/d), are each individually worth the drive,. The only 5.10 on the face, The Great Escape (10c), is one of the most fun sport climbs at the grade in New England. It is also the perfect warmup for the harder routes. Don’t be afraid to wander a little bit and try some of the routes that aren’t fixed with neon blue draws. It Ain’t Pretty Being Easy (12a) was the first sport route on the cliff and is well worth the effort. The best part of Shagg, however, may happen once the climbing is over. If it’s a hot day, or if your hands are searing from jug-rash, it’s worth a detour to the little pond you passed on the walk in and the perfect diving rock a short distance from the hiking trail. A swimsuit and a few strategically placed beverages make for the sublime end to a hard day of sport tugging. If you can, spend a week at Shagg, and see how many 12s you can tick off in one visit. Don’t expect to have much juice the second or third day on, however. Shagg has a way of taking it out of you.

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Maryne Shephard enjoys the ocean views at Otter Cliffs, Acadia National Park, Maine. Photo By: Matt Richter 40

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THIRD STOP:

ACADIA NATIONAL PARK Next, it’s time to switch gears, from clipping bolts in the mountains to jamming cracks on the seacoast. Bar Harbor is the stereotypical “tourist trap,” but a short drive on the Park Loop Road followed by a 10-minute walk into the Precipice’s South Wall leaves that all behind. Instead of crowds you’ll be faced with compact granite and cracks on par with those of Cathedral Ledge and Spiders Web. It doesn’t really matter what grade you’re looking to climb at the South Wall, so long as you come equipped to lead. If you’re looking for something moderate hit the first pitch of Chitlin’s Corner (5.7), Old Town (5.7) or Wafer Step (5.5). If you want something more challenging try Return to Forever (5.9), Emigrant Crack (10b), Fear of Flying (10a), or any of several finishes to Chitlin’s. If you want to test your fingers try Maniacal Depression (11c) or High Wire (11c). Bringing extra green Alien-sized pieces for the latter. The South Wall is just one Island option when it comes to seaside cragging, and it isn’t really seaside by Acadia standards. If you want the toprope experience head to Otter Cliffs, where the crowds will have as good a time watching you climb as you have climbing (avoid Otter on busy days, however, you might spend more time watching than climbing). The seaside lead experience comes with a walk out to Great Head, one of the best areas of its kind in the country. Tides and rappel approaches create true commitment, so if you head out there be prepared. The climbing is spectacular, however, with routes like Morning Glory (5.8+) and Head Arete (10d), so get a tide chart and get after it. One of the best things about Acadia is that when the rest of the Northeast is awash in bugs the sea breeze keeps things sane. It also makes the temperatures tolerable when the rest of the Northeast is baking. Climbing may feel like a death-march everywhere else, but on the Island it will be ideal conditions. The beating heart of Vacationland can sometimes inspire climbers to venture beyond the vertical environment, but in Acadia that isn’t all bad. Reel Pizza offers movies with a slice, and there are several great restaurants like 2 Cats, Cafe This Way and The Burning Tree. There are also hundreds of places to get away from the crowds, like Little Hunters Beach and anything west of the Park Loop Road. Rest days will never be dull. Just don’t forget vacation has to end, and you have to go home at some point.

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LAST STOP:

MOUNT KATAHDIN If climbing to you must end on a summit, Katahdin is the place to go. There is no thrashing for a pitch or two and then lowering off here. 5,268 feet may not sound that tall, but when it juts up from the flat ground it proves an impressive sight. Katahdin is the final stop on the 2,150 mile Appalachian Trail, but for climbers it represents something else, something all too rare in the east: alpine terrain. Alpine rock climbing anywhere means work, and Katahdin is no different. It takes three hours just to hike into Chimney Pond, where the approach to the climbing routes actually begins. The most popular line, Armadillo Buttress (5.8), can be done in a big day, but that isn’t for the feint of heart. The more popular choice is to reserve several days in a lean-to, and then spend a few days traipsing through the hills. If you’re feeling adventurous (and fit) the Tabor Wall in the North Basin is a worthy objective for any climber. Katahdin, unlike most climbing areas in the East, still feels wild. It is still possible to head up there with a rack and a rope and just hop on something, topo be damned, take it to the top of the ridge and then aim for the summit cone. There might be some loose rock, there might be some class four scrambling, but it is a destination with the opportunity for exploration. The mountain is an open canvas for climbers willing to put down the guidebook. It is not, however, a place for new leaders, or for those unable to move quickly over varied terrain. It is an alpine environment akin to something out west, where self-reliance is the rule. And if you want some direction on where to point your leader, don’t despair, the ranger station at Chimney Pond has information on routes on the mountain. The Baxter State Park logistics, however, ensure only those truly committed to the summit ever make it. Unlike the freewheeling atmosphere of most parks and climbing areas, Katahdin is heavily regulated. Make sure you at least reserve a parking space before you start the long drive north, and call early if you hope to have any chance of booking an overnight (or five). Two weeks? That’s hardly enough time to fully digest Vacationland. But hey, you’ll get two weeks again next year...

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Climber on the hand crack above the flake on the Armidillo. Photo by Erik Thatcher

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DETERMINATION // TWO NEW ROUTES It doesn’t take much to get me excited about the mountains, especially when it’s about two rad dudes killing it, big time!

Maine and Doucette in New Hampshire. It’s a pleasure to be from an area where so many kick-ass climbers are born. The history runs wild.

In late April, Peter Doucette and Silas Rossi made it to the summit of Mt. Bradley in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska twice via two new routes: The Sum of its Parts (Alaska Grade V, AI6, M7, A2, 4,000’) and Heavy Mettle (Alaska Grade V, WI5+R, M6, A0, 4600’). If you didn’t catch that, that’s two new routes of which involved WI5+R, M6 and M7 with some aid thrown in to the mix. With a perfect weather window, both routes took the duo a combined 92 and 1/2 hours to complete camp to camp.

“The final eight hours of post-holing reaffirmed our belief that skiing is a far superior method of travel no matter how rewarding the line of post holes looks over your shoulder.”

Both climbers are IFMGA certified guides and have a list of climbing credentials longer than Rapunzel’s golden hair. They both call the Northeast home; Rossi resides in

To get a full briefing of their routes check out the Brooks Range blog: http://brooks-range.com/brblog/2012/05/twonew-routes-on-mt-bradley/

Silas Rossi and Peter Doucette nearing the top of "The Sum of Its Parts" Photo By: Peter Doucette

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AROUND TOWN //

THE NORTHEAST CLIMBING

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rumney

Guidebook is Going Mobile Witness The Evolution of the Climbing Guidebook

Rumney Climbing app Explore the entire content with a few taps using interactive maps, topos, and wall photos. Search for your next route by custom criteria such as difficulty, stars, conditions, area, route name, etc. TickList the climbs that you want to get on. Log the climbs you send and keep track of your progress on projects. Navigate the crags and terrain in real time with embedded maps and GPS points.

Test Drive all the features with the Free edition that contains three of Rumneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s classic walls.

Check Out all of our other guide-apps.

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READERS GALLERY

Beau S. climbing like he owns it on Marionette (5.11c) at Bridge Buttress Photo By: Caley P.

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Send your photos to submissions@climberism.com and they could end up here! 2011 MAY | MARCH JUNE |2012 APRIL

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Alan Jay sporting a Climberism T-shirt on Little Red Hen (5.12d) 82 Crag, Vermont Photo By: Max Fried

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READERS GALLERY

Jeffrey Gagliano pulling the exciting 3rd pitch roof of Erect Direction (5.10c) Gunks, NY

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THE LIBRARY //

The Mountain of My Fear and Deborah: Two Mountaineering Classics by David Roberts

mountaineering literature is a unique field. The epic adventures of (mostly) young men on high mountains, sometimes involving near-death accidents, too often clouded over by large egos and conspiracy, are nonetheless almost always a riveting read. David Roberts has been at the top of the genre for over four decades for his ability to rise above the fray and describe climbs of his and others in compelling prose.

The Mountaineers have put together his first two books, The Mountain of My Fear and Deborah, into a single volume that shows the evolution of Roberts’ early climbing and writing through two of his first Alaskan ascents in the late 60’s. While students at Harvard, Roberts and his partner, Don Jensen, made an attempt on the unclimbed eastern side of the 12,000-foot Mt. Deborah. Hampered by bad weather, the pair don’t make it to the summit. Roberts describes the turning point: “above, blocking out half the sky, was the terrible black cliff, the six-hundred-foot wall...At its upper rim, nearly a thousand feet above me, hovered monstrous chunks of ice, like aimed cannons at the top of a castle wall.” Tired, hungry, and constantly on each others nerves, they descend. Roberts does an expert job conveying the dynamics of climbing partners: competing egos, questioning of each others’ judgement, and being forced to sleep in a small tent after a heated verbal dispute.

The Mountain of My Fear depicts the first ascent of the west face of Mount Huntington by Roberts, Jensen, and two other Harvard buddies. Written before Deborah, the writing style is more in the Kerouac vain: flowing and free, written a chapter a day. Huntington had been an obsession of Jensen’s since before their attempt on Deborah. A hulking rock and ice pyramid, steeper than most in the Central Alaska Range. In the words of Roberts, “it has possessed a quality common to only a few mountains in the world. A sense of arrested grace, perhaps; a sculptured frailty too savage for any sculptor’s hand; a kinship with air around it that makes it seem always in motion.” The account of the Huntington journey details brief victory, followed by sorrow. Where Deborah places the reader on the mountain, The Mountain of My Fear puts the reader in the narrative, experiencing the hardships, triumphs and emotions as Roberts and his team did over forty years ago.

Thin Ice: Unlocking the Secrets of Climate in the World’s Highest Mountains by Mark Bowen

hysicist, climber and writer, Mark Bowen has scaled rock and ice throughout North America, and around the world. He combined his passion for big peaks and science in Thin Ice, which follows Lonnie Thompson, a climate scientist from Ohio State University, as he studies cores from alpine ice sheets. From Bolivia to Tanzania, Peru to Tibet, and back again, Bowen details Thompson and his teams’ efforts to determine the effects of climate change on some of the highest peaks and glaciers. The scale of the expeditions are massive, requiring porters to lug solar panels and a drilling rig thousands of feet to the summits of the likes of Nevado Sajama and Kilimanjaro. Thompson and other scientists then spend weeks hunkered down, extracting cores up to hundreds feet deep. The ice is then carefully brought down the mountain and back to the lab to study carbon levels, contributing to the overwhelming evidence that coal and oil are wrecking our planet. Being a science geek myself, I thoroughly enjoyed Thin Ice, but I wouldn’t recommend it to everyone. Bowen does a great job breaking down the science, but even still, those without some background in climate change or ice cores may find some of the language dense. Bowen weaves his personal accounts of being at drilling sites with historical background and scientific explanation to create a solid and well-researched tome. In the end, though, the story is one of urgency. The glaciers that Lonnie Thompson studies provide water for billions of people. The mountains that are melting are also the playground for us mountaineers and climbers. Writes Bowen, “as the snows disappear, not only do the routes we climb become more difficult and dangerous, but the climbing itself becomes less aesthetic. And, to most of us, the mountain world loses some of its luster. A peak looks better with a clean crest of snow on top.” 44 50

climberism | MAGAZINE

MAY JUNE 2012

FOOD FOR CLIMBERS //

WHISKEY // WHAT ELSE CAN WE SAY?

MAN, WORKING FOR A CLIMBING MAG IS HARD. A SIESTA AROUND NOON. A COUPLE HOURS OF SKIMMING THE NEWS FEEDS. ONCE 2 O’CLOCK ROLLS AROUND AND WE HIT THE CRAG, IT DOESN’T FEEL LIKE WE WORKED A WHOLE FOUR HOURS THAT MORNING. WORST OF ALL IS THE FREE STUFF WE GET. TRUCKLOADS OF IT. UPS, FEDEX, THE MAILMAN. ALL LINED UP WAITING TO DELIVER OUR DAILY PACKAGE.

MAY JUNE 2012

March had to be the toughest month yet. We had a streak of 5 continuous days on rock and we got 2 free bottles of rye whiskey. The good folks at WhistlePig and Tuthilltown Spirits entrusted us with their quality rye and we used a few rare hours of sobriety to make sense of our drunken scrawling. WhistlePig Started in 2006 by the eclectic Raj Peter Bhakta, WhistlePig produces a 100% rye whiskey that is bottled at their 500-acre farm in Shoreham, VT. Founder Raj Peter Bhakta was best known for crossing the Rio Grande on the back of an elephant with a six-piece mariachi band during a failed run at national politics. His rye whiskey is far less controversial. It has a full-bodied taste, which goes down clean and

has hints of caramel and vanilla. We found this to be the smoothest whiskey we’ve ever tasted, although maybe that’s because our usual choice comes in a plastic bottle. Tuthilltown Spirits Located in Gardiner, NY, a mere 15 minutes from the Gunks, Tuthilltown’s Manhattan Rye is a whiskey close to our hearts. The property was supposed to be a climbing ranch when it was purchased in 2001, but opposition from the locals forced Ralph Erenzo to use it for something else: making some of the finest small-batch whiskey in the world. Their rye is a lot saucier than Whistlepig’s. Lots of oak and fruit on the taste and a really complex feel. Our supply dwindled real quick, and we will be sure to stock up next time we’re at the Gunks! climberism | MAGAZINE

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CLIMBERISM MAGAZINE ANDREW KOFF DODGING THE BOZEMAN BULLET 5.6 DEADWATER, ADIRONDACKS 54 climberism | MAGAZINE

MAY JUNE 2012