Climberism
A Northeast Climbing Magazine
Feeding Climber Addiction
Issue 3
November I December 2010
STONING THE FASCISTS
PETER KAMITSES
CLIMBS LONG TIME PROJECT
MOTHER NATURE HAS THE FINAL SAY
NOVA SCOTIA’S TURBULENT COAST
ICE
GETTING FIRST ISN’T ALWAYS EASY MT. WASHINGTON IN OCTOBER
GUIDE REVIEW KEL ROSSITER OF ADVENTURE SPIRIT GUIDES WWW.CLIMBERISM.COM
GEAR TALK
NEW FRIENDS AND RECYCLED CHALK BAGS
2 www.climberism.com NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2010
Climberism Magazine Feed The Addiction
Contribute
2010 NOVEMBER I DECEMBER
www.climberism.com 3 submissions@climberism.com
INSIDE THE MAG
6 - NOTES FROM THE EDITOR 8 - GEAR TALK 10 - THE TURBULENT COAST OF NOVA SCOTIA 21- “MONUMANTLE” AN INTERVIEW WITH BRIAN KIM 26 - CHICKS ON CRAG - NATH MALO CRUSHING IN QUEBEC 30 - ONE OF NEW ENGLAND’S HARDEST ROUTES 36 - GUIDE REVIEW FEATURING ADVENTURE SPIRIT GUIDES 38 - EARLY 2010 ICE CLIMBING ON MT. WASHINGTON 42 - FOOD FOR CLIMBERS “BEER” 4 www.climberism.com NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2010
Find Climberism on facebook
EDITOR’S NOTE The sea is a wild place, where waves can tower and topple most anything, where wind can blow you off your feet, and where so much uncharted territory still exists. The sea is an unforgiving place to say the least. In this issue Todd Foster of Pull Down Productions, places you in the shoes of Nova Scotia climbers. You get an inside look at what happens when the sea gets angry off the coast of this maritime peninsula. Access isn’t the issue, it’s loosing climbing areas that really hurts, but at the same time keeps it interesting. Be sure to check out page #9 for the full story as to why “The Sea Was Angry.”
Contribute submission@climberism.com
Climberism Magazine November & December Issue Editor David Crothers ADVERTISE info@climberism.com SUBSCRIBE http://www.climberism.com/magazinesubscriptions/ Help us grow and provide you with only the best Northeast climbing stories, contribute your content to climberism magazine at submissions@climberism.com Climberism Magazine 26 1/2 North Avenue Burlington, VT 05401 Most of the activities depicted in this magazine carry significant amounts of risk with the potential for serious injury or death. We do not recommend you try or participate in any of the activities depicted within this publication. Seek professional guidance or help from someone of expertise. You assume all risks associated with your decision.
Contact Us info@climberism.com COVER: Peter Kamitses on Stoning the Fascist. Copyright Climberism. All Rights Reserved. No material in this magazine may be reproduced without prior written consent.
6 www.climberism.com SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2010
Get a Climberism t-shirt at www.climberism.com
GEAR TALK
WILD COUNTRY’S HELIUM FRIEND
M
eet my new best friend. Though we won’t be able to hangout until Spring 2011; I will certainly keep a picture of my new buddy on my bedside table.
While adding a plethora of new features to the Helium Friend, Wild Country has held onto some classics like the original single axle design, floating trigger, and the original single stem design. When these babies come out, you better believe my rack will be full! You can expect to shell out about $60 when these guys hit the stores in the spring.
The Helium Friend is a redesign of Wild Country’s original Friend; the first camming device to ever hit the market. Wild Country has stepped into the hot forged kitchen and cooked up a stellar piece of gear. A representative from Wild Country said “The Helium Friends are not in final production yet, we are making some final tweaks, but you should see them in stores in the USA between March and April, just in time for the spring season.” Get psyched! Wild Country displayed their new cams at the Outdoor Retailer this year sparking a wave of excitement in the climbing community. With so many new and upgraded features it’s hard to know where to begin. How about with the hot forged and newly designed cam head. With more range and over lap you will get more from one piece, so much more, Wild Country has cut two cams from their brigade; leaving you with nine units to choose from. The Helium Friends have a new thumb loop, new trigger, new springs, and the list goes on. We are very impressed with what could be the next piece of gear that dominates the climbing community!
8 www.climberism.com NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2010
GEAR TALK
I feel like I have cheated, yes cheated, on my first chalk bag ever. And I truly feel bad because I have made the switch to this new Rac Sack bag. I was a little apprehensive at first. Even as a female I rarely use pink gear, but I love companies that are always looking to repurpose what others might consider trash and keep excess waste out of the landfills.
fashionable, eco-friendly products to you from around the globe while creating high-paying, living-wage jobs in the communities where their products are created. Their chalk bags are made from recycled feed bags, and come in two designs: the Aquaculture, which I have, and Lucky 7.
The chalk bag costs $20 and is super lightweight and comes with it’s own waist belt! It has a pull What is a Rac Sacks bag, you might wonder, and strong closure and makes a statement being why would I switch to this bag? “Rac” roughly pink. translates to “trash” in Vietnamese, but as the saying goes, one person’s trash is another person’s recycled and repurposed treasure. Rac To find out more information and choose a rac-sack Sacks manufactures custom bags from recycled of your own check out www.racsacks.com, mother products in Vietnam. Their mission: to bring nature will thanks you!
Article written by Megan Davin Photo taken by Cam Clark www.cameronclarkphoto.com
2010 NOVEMBER I DECEMBER
www.climberism.com
9
The Sea Was Angry Nova Scotia’s Turbulent Sea Coast
Nadine Dumas on Right Arrete (v2) - Duck Head Photo by Ben Blakney
10 www.climberism.com NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2010
2010 NOVEMBER I DECEMBER
www.climberism.com
11
Ben Blakney on Kinder Surprise (v10 FA) - a problem created by last hurricane Photo by Krissy Lunney
12 www.climberism.com SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2010
THE NORTHEAST
A
ccess issues are universal around the world. As populations grow and cities expand, many of our favorite areas to recreate become threatened by development. That’s how we lost our first boulder problems here in Nova Scotia. The area known as Terrence Bay Woods, is set on private land and a few years after finishing my documentary, Eastern Tide, an out of province couple bought the lot were several classic bouldering problems exist. They had ambitious plans to start building; they contacted the local climbing association, Climb Nova Scotia, and asked that the area be considered off limits. Once their home was to be completed they, understandably, didn’t want people climbing in their back yard. Things happen, and plans change. Construction never began but the property still remains technically “off limits.” It’s a typical story for many climbing areas, but here is where Nova Scotia’s access issues begin to differ. Nova Scotia is a peninsula that penetrates the North Atlantic Ocean. It’s this ocean that influences our weather and moderates our temperatures; making it possible to climb in the dead heat of summer. Thirty degrees Celsius in the city, no problem, go coastal and the temperature drops dramatically. Coastal bouldering is a real treat, clean, smooth(ish) rock, cool breezes and the ever present sound of waves. Although quite pleasant you always have to be aware of tides and swells when climbing with your back to the ocean. Many climbers have, unexpectedly, had their crash pads snatched by waves or have been swamped without warning. Almost annually a tourist or two visiting the famous Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse, gets too close to the edge and is swept away, usually requiring rescue. It wasn’t until late fall of 2005 when the climbing community really began to understand the power of the Atlantic. Hurricane Juan was steaming up the coast as a category three. By the time it reached Nova Scotia it had lost some energy and dropped to a category two. In the middle of the night, Juan finally made landfall; a direct hit on the city of Halifax. It wouldn’t be until five days later that the city would see power again, but the cleanup continued for weeks.
Following the hurricane, were weeks of beautiful fall weather, and before it got too cold, a few of us went for one last day of bouldering on Dover Island. It started out as a typical day on Dover, we hit up all the classics at the Warm Up Wall and then moved further down the island. As we approached the last half of the island something began to look strange. A large predominant boulder, known as the Fish Mouth Boulder was gone! A boulder the size of a large truck had been moved 20 feet down a gentle slope, dropped another 20 feet into a gully and split in half. What use to be the Fish Mouth Boulder was now a pile of small rubble. Where the Fish Mouth Boulder use to lie was an area of rock that, previously, was un-climbable. That day we put up three new problems. They were good problems but certainly no replacement for the ones we lost. It would take a few months before all the costal climbing areas had been visited and in the end there were at least three boulders in different areas moved or destroyed. “Fish Mouth” and “The Puker” on Dover Island were destroyed at the mercy of Hurricane Juan. Duncan’s Cove “Robar Direct” moved and “Broken” was now on the ground. The next few years would bring more subtle changes. Places like Prospect Bay began to shuffle slightly. Small boulders around classics like “Sang de Dragon” were moved. The problem wasn’t destroyed but changed just enough to make it feel a little less appealing. In late fall of 2007 Hurricane Noel hit Nova Scotia. Although it was downgraded to an extra-tropical storm by the time it hit Atlantic Canada, it was no less devastating. At Crystal Crescent Beach the classic “Stealth Pants” was torn into pieces. “Rubix Cube” boulder at Herring Cove was rotated, and again Dover Island bore the brunt of the storms power. “Cassidy’s Prow” was decapitated, “Polar Bear” was now blocked by a pile of rubble, “Orangutan” torn apart (although it is still climbable it is not nearly as good) and an entire section of cliff, an area known as the “Cave of the Future” collapsed and filled in the gully where the Fish Mouth Boulder was laying. In total, over half a dozen good climbs were lost.
13
The entire coastline seemed to be moving. What was most interesting was how random the changes were. It was almost like a tornado of water would come ashore and grab a boulder, while one right next to it would be completely unchanged. Most of the coastal bouldering areas have been completely developed for a long time and very few new problems get established so there was almost a sense of excitement after a fall storm. Climbers rush out to their favorite coastal bouldering area to check for damage and snag any first ascents on new or moved rock. Though a few new problems have been established over the years the scales are heavily weighed to loss. Late fall usually marks the end of coastal climbing in Nova Scotia, the ocean air gets a bit too cold to bare. The hardiest of climbers will spend the winter bouldering on the more protected inland areas like the Land of Confusion. The Hurricane season of 2009 left very little change to the coast so it was quite surprising when we returned to coastal bouldering in the spring of 2010 to find more coastal changes. Reports came in that a large section of rock was now gone and to call the section of rock a “boulder” seems to diminish the size of this monolith of granite. The approximately twenty five foot tall, fourteen foot wide outcrop that housed the possibly un-repeated Comfort Zone (V9) was now gone! It was like it had been teleported to a distant planet; there were simply no signs of it anywhere. We can only guess when it was taken, but that winters there were a series of large storms, with the largest being a Nor’easter occurring on January 2, 2010.
A climbing partner of mine once told me his secret to climbing hard. It was simple, “climb everyday like it was your last.” I don’t think it was morbid, I don’t think he thought something dire may happen to him the next day. It was more likely he was referring to the fact that he now has kids and free time was precious, so he would simply give it all day as hard as he could when he had time to climb. Nonetheless it has become my motto now when coastal climbing “climb every day like it’s your last” because tomorrow may bring the next big Nor’easter or hurricane and your long worked project may be swept away. Todd Foster is a long time Nova Scotian Boulderer and professional videographer. When Todd isn’t making the next short for Dover Island Boulderfest he is out climbing along the coastline of Nova Scotia. Check out the review of Easter Tide in The Library of Climberism Magazine on page 39, a documentary on climbing in Nova Scotia and visit Pull Down Productions on the web at www.pulldown.ca
This year would prove to be fatal for Duck Head. On September 3, 2010: Hurricane Earl made landfall on Nova Scotia with destructive force. It was referred to as a “minimal hurricane” but still had plenty of power to cause widespread power outages and completely destroy “Duck Head.” This once stellar area has now been demolished to rubble. The bulk of the problems, well over fifteen, lay in ruin with nothing to replace them with.
14 www.climberism.com NOVERMBER I DECEMBER 2010
Brett Meyers on One Scoop (v8) - Dover Island Photo by Ben Blakney
2010 NOVEMBER I DECEMBER
www.climberism.com
15
Ben Blakney on Z-Haul (v9) - Duck Head Photo by Krissy Lunney
16 www.climberism.com NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2010
2010 NOVEMBER I DECEMBER
www.climberism.com
17
Ben Blakney on Skin Graph (v8) Duck Head Photo by France Lacroix-Pelloni
18 www.climberism.com NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2010
Ben Smith on Strong Boy (project) - Duck Head Photo by Ben Blakney
2010 NOVEMBER I DECEMBER
www.climberism.com
19
“Taylor De Lench has put together a great film. I’m really excited to have been a part in this film… Taylor has been working hard for over a year on this project. It’s not the easiest thing to do, making a good climbing movie. Dealing with weather, stubborn climbers and anything else that can go wrong can damper anyone’s spirits. Good effort Taylor you deserve it,” Phil Schaal
“SICK… featured tons of New England’s best climbing sites as well as climbers. It was certainly fun to see local climbers that we know and love conquering some badass problems. I have to give it to Taylor for putting something together that wasn’t just climbs, but also a number of clips that showed the climbers’ passion, fun, and excitement of their day to day climbing expeditions...” Tom Sherman
www.startmotionproductions.com 20 www.climberism.com NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2010
SPOTLIGHT
“Monumantle” An interview with Brian Kim
BK: The climbing has been great; I’m mainly here to just check the area out (I’ve been climbing for just over 10 years now and figured that a trip to the valley is long overdue). The only project I had in mind to try is Magicline, a hard 14b testpiece put up by Ron Kauk. How long have you been climbing for, where did you learn/how did you get into it? BK: 10 years, there was a climbing gym 5 minutes from my house in central NJ. I was always there and climbed all the time. Your a local strongman, videos plastered all over the net, your still young too, how does all the attention feel?
I
don’t know Brian Kim and Brian Kim doesn’t know me. We’ve talked via e-mail a couple times and met in person only once; right after he had just gotten 2nd place at the Nor’ easter’s UBC (Unified Bouldering Championship). But what I do know about him, and what I have seen, he is one hell of a climber. Brian is what you would call the ultimate climbing machine, he climbs hard trad routes during his free time and when he isn’t studying Architecture, he’s flexing his forearms at bouldering comps all across the Northeast.
BK: I don’t actually feel like I receive that much attention. Its kind of nice to just do my own thing and not have to worry about an ‘image’
This past summer Mr. Kim sent a super hard/bouldery project at the Gunks. I reckon it won’t see a second ascent for a long time to come, but I’m only judging by it’s shear mental hurdle and it’s burly 5.13d grade. The thing looks crazy! Anyway, here is an interview with Brian shortly after his ascent. He communicated via iTouch and internet from Yosemite Valley...
How long did you work the line before you made the send.
Mr. Kim, thanks for taking the time to reach out from your iTouch in Yosemite Valley. How is the climbing going out there, any projects? Above: Brain Kim on “Monumantle”
Monumantle, nice line! How did you know it would go? BK: I was pretty determined from the get-go that I wanted to do the line. Its a very nice piece of rock and I would do everything I could to climb it.
BK: I spent 2 days sussing out everything on toprope. Normally I like doing things with ground-up tradition, but this was a little too dangerous to do in that style. How did you find it? BK: Richard Gottlieb, Rock & Snow owner, pointed this project out to me. Can you explain the name, for those unfamiliar with the mantle block?
SPOTLIGHT BK: The climb is located on the right side of a feature called the dismantle block. All the existing climb names reference to block, I thought this climb should too. You gave the route *** on 8a.nu and called it a “new school Gunks route” explain new school.
How do you feel about northeast climbing, and do you prefer it over the west? BK: They are so different. I enjoy travelling and climbing elsewhere, But I really only feel at home on the northeast.
BK: Excellent climb. Clean steep rock. Pretty rare gem in this area. I consider it ‘new school’ of the very bouldery nature of the route. Most harder climbs at the Gunks may have one or two boulder moves. This route seems to link up very distinct bouldery sections.
Cold weather is coming soon, are you an ice climber, or gym climber, how do you stay in shape?
Any new projects in the area you have an eye on?
Can you up offer a piece of climbing advice for the readers?
BK: I have been working on a line on the Twilight Zone Buttress. Its very hard, bouldery, and exposed (ie scary).
BK: Have not sunk metal into ice yet, but maybe I will this season. I stay in shape in the gym.
BK: Do it all. Trad sport boulder competition. I never get bored of climbing.
22 www.climberism.com NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2010
Brian Kim making easy work of problem number 2 at the UBC Nor’easter
2010 NOVEMBER I DECEMBER
www.climberism.com
23
Nor’easter
Clockwises: Daniel Woods ripping it up for a 3rd place finish. Angie Payne (3rd place finish), Alex Johnson(1st place finish), and Francesca Metcalf (2nd place finish). Joe Kinder and Dave Graham enjoying the VIP after party. Alex Johnson is ready to eat Joe Kinder... Enjoying the great Nor’east weather..
W
here else can you find such a large group of fellow Nor’easterners, pro-climbers, the UBC, and EMS after parties with free BBQ corn? I mean just take a look at Alex Johnson, that should explain everything. For us it all stated with the UBC, female climber Alex Johnson flashed all three problems, the only female to do so, while Francesca Metcalf and Angie Payne fought for 2nd place. Ethan Pringle climbed exceptionally well and duked it out with climber Brian Kim. Daniel Woods came in 3rd place after struggling the find his zone. We finished off the event on the Ice Holdz climbing wall, listening to great bands, and enjoying the company of fellow Nor’easter attendees. We’ll see you at the next Nor’easter!
24 www.climberism.com NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2010
Petra Cliffs ABS
Clockwise: Men’s “open” winner Sam Hathaway. Women’s “intermediate” 3rd place winner Rhiannon Kim, Allison Colwell making easy work of green tape v5+. Naomi Risch taking home 5th place in Women’s “intermediate. Craig Morrill “For Dragon” finishing 9th in men’s “intermediate”. Below clockwise: Ward Smith making easy work on one of Wendall State Park’s boulder problems. Dinner! WMCC Banner. Steve Johnson on one of many moderate problems.
C
louds of chalk and crowds of eager climbers filled the climbing gym of Petra Cliffs for the 2010 ABS bouldering Comp. Groans, moans, and cheers are what you can expect at an event like this, while climbers push themselves to their limit. Watching a comp like this makes you want to jump in an join the fun! Many great sponsors donated gear for participating athletes. Check out our events section at www.climberism.com for upcoming Northeast events and highlights of previous gathering.
Western Mass Climbers Coalition Rendezvous
2010 NOVEMBER I DECEMBER
www.climberism.com
25
Nathalie Malo living the dream out of her new Euro van
CHICKS ON CRAG
Nathalie Malo has only been
climbing for about four years and has already checked off some of Canada’s prized test pieces!
26 www.climberism.com NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2010
D
riving forty-five minutes from Val David back to Montreal, Quebec is something of a regular endeavor for Nathalie Malo. She currently lives out of her van and climbs almost everyday. “I left my job, rented my condo, sold my car, and bought a van.” Malo says. She laughs in our phone conversation as she finds somewhere to park for the night “I am changing my life a little.” She says as she settles in. Malo recently nabbed the first female ascent of the intimidating roof crack Toit de Ben (5.13a) in the Val David. Bernard Poisson and Claude Lavallée, both of whom put up a swath of routes across the Northeast, originally aided the route in 1958. Francois Roy at the age of twentythree made the first free ascent went in 1987! Since it’s first aided ascent back in the fifties, it was repeated only by men. But in early September 2010, Malo grabbed the impressive first female ascent, making a strong name for herself. She is also known for leading the Zombie Roof in Squamish, a very long overhanging 5.12d/5.13a. Having only learned to climb four years ago, Malo has already made some impressive ascents.
Malo says she will try the La Zébrée next year, as it is too wet now. She plans to head south checking out hot spots and ticking off hard climbs on her way. She is hoping to inspire more women to push themselves and get out climbing. Jeff Beaulieu was the first ascentionist of La Zébrée 5.14a, the route Nath plans on climbing next year. He placed all his gear before sending it in 2004. In 2007, Jean-Pierre “Peewee” Ouellette climbed the route free but not without controversy. According to Escalade Quebec, he pre-placed the first pieces of gear to avoid a bad fall. I was lucky Nath was still around Quebec just after she sent Toit de Ben. I rang her after a long day of climbing and sounded completely exhausted, but after settling into her parking spot she answered a few questions.
Nathalie Malo making the Zombie Roof 5.12d/5.13a look easy.
2010 NOVEMBER I DECEMBER
www.climberism.com
27
CHICKS ON CRAG So you’re living out of your van? Climbing Mostly? NM: Well, I left my job in March and just decided to change my life a little. I sold my car and rented my condo and yeah, I am trying to live out of my van. I am still looking for work but looking for something that will allow me to fulfill my goals of climbing.
pretty impressive, what motivated you to climb it?
NM: Yeah, I just got the van and right now it is a cargo van so it is not insulated or anything but I plan to do that. My plan is not to stick around here but to go South because it is going to be too cold here.
NM: When I moved back I was told about it but I didn’t think I was ready for that yet. But I was in Squamish in July where I did some multi pitch routes, bouldering, trad and I climbed on lead mostly. I was originally only supposed to belay my friend on this roof crack in Squamish my friend had been working on. But you can’t only belay with out climbing so I gave it a try with no expectations and I had to develop my own sequence because I am small and have tiny hands, but eventually it went. When I got back to Montreal I felt that I was ready to try the Toit de Ben.
So how long have you been climbing Nathalie?
How long did it take you to climb the route?
NM: Umm, I’ve been climbing outside for about four years. I moved to San Diego, California for my postdoctoral studies and that is where I started to climb. Before that, I climbed a couple years in the gyms of Montreal, but nothing too serious. After I left San Diego I traveled for a year and went to South East Asia where I learned to trad climb in Australia. I moved back home about a year ago and I have been discovering all the nice places we have in the Northeast.
NM: I had been there for five days and eight tries in all. Six tries to link all the movements and two tries to redpoint it and climb it all together.
It’s going to get cold soon; do you have any plans on heating the van?
Can you tell me a little bit about Val David, I don’t know much about it. NM: Yeah, Val David is a town just forty-five minutes north of Montreal. It holds granite cliffs and bouldering. It is most well known for it’s two difficult cracks up there, the Toit de Ben and there is also La Zébrée. Most American climbers call is La Zebra. It is a 5.14 crack that is really beautiful with black and white stripes. Those are the two classic difficult cracks in the Val David. Are you planning on climbing the La Zebra? NM: Yeah, I think I would like to try it. It is difficult though because most of the year it is wet. I wish it would dry again but I think it is the end of the season already. I may have to wait until next year to get on it. The Toit de Ben has never seen a female ascent, that’s
“Well, I left my job in March and just decided to change my life a little. I sold my car and rented my condo and yeah, I am trying to live out of my van. “ So climbing these hard roofs, would you classify yourself as a trad climber or a little of both sport and trad? NM: No, I would consider myself a trad climber, I enjoy crack climbing and it is what I do well at. I believe I can trad lead harder routes then I can with sport. I just really trust being able to place my own gear because with sport climbing I can’t place my own gear when I would like to and if I can’t reach the bolt I can’t place any gear.
28 www.climberism.com NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2010
CHICKS ON CRAG Do you have any climbing projects in the future? NM: Yeah, I have a lot of projects but I just don’t know what one I will choose. I am definitely interested in hard crack climbing and long pitches.
Val David is a town just forty-five minutes north of Montreal. It holds granite cliffs and bouldering. It is most well known for it’s two difficult cracks, the Toit de Ben and there is also La Zébrée.
Where is your favorite place to climb in the Northeast? NM: Oh, I’m not sure because I am still discovering but Val David has been a good one. A place I did really enjoy but I don’t think it is my favorite place is the Gunks. I just think it is a style that is so different then anywhere else. It feels like your sport climbing but placing you are own gear and the routes are challenging. So in ending here, winter is coming pretty quickly are you planning on attacking any ice? NM: Last year was my first winter being home when I couldn’t climb outside. So I learned to boulder in the gym and decided to work on my weakness. There are some really strong boulderers here and I met some of them. They helped me gain additional strength I didn’t have before, but hopefully I will be somewhere south climbing in warmer areas. Well Nath, I won’t keep you any longer, you sound pretty tired. I am sure you had a long day out there. Stay warm and keep moving!
Nathalie Malo working the Zombie Roof in Squamish.
2010 NOVERMEBER I DECEMBER
www.climberism.com
29
30 www.climberism.com NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2010
Stoning the Fascist
ONE OF NEW ENGLAND’S HARDEST ROUTES
2010 NOVEMBER I DECEMBER
www.climberism.com
31
Peter Kamitses on Stoning the Fascist. Marshfield, Vermont
32 www.climberism.com NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2010
M
y work day is nothing like Peter Kamitses’. When I am not working on Climbersim Magazine I am chasing down the source of mold problems in residential homes. You know that black and green stuff that you see in your bathroom and around your tub? I take samples of it, send it to a lab and let people know that they now have to burn their houses down. Ok, so maybe it’s not that extreme but you get the picture. Peter Kamitses on the other hand, chases his kids around Petra Cliffs Climbing Center between route setting and running laps on the gyms hardest plastic. We are probably polar opposites. He use to have long heady dreads, probably listened to PHISH and wore hemp clothes. I popped a caller, drove an Acura, and listened to Nelly. Looking at me now you wouldn’t think so but at one point in my life I was the man, drank Ice House, and hated hemp. The main difference between Peter and I is that he climbs hard and I read Urban Climber. I can’t even get off the ground on his easiest climbs. These guys warm up on 5.13’s! This fall I had an opportunity to shoot some photos of Peter climbing his new route, Stoning the Fascist, a mid to hard 5.14 on the High Grade Wall in Marshfield, Vermont. When he called and asked if I was interested, I gladly accepted.
We jumared up, gained the High Grad and soon after Peter was rappelling down from the top. Once he lowered to the ground they got right to work. Peter and Matt warmed up as I continued to jumar and bounced around on the dynamic line Peter set. For the rest of the day I sat in my harness and shot photos of Peter sending behind prime Vermont foliage. The colorful trees and cool temps make it the best time of year to climb Northeast. Staring at Peter’s new route, one would think, there is no way anyone could climb such a limited series of side-pills crimps and in general limited holds. With very distinct cruxes and the hardest being the last section before topping out; I don’t image even the most seasoned climber will make the second ascent any time soon. Here is what Peter had to say about the climb. “I’ve been working this thing off and on for 3 years. It is totally not my style so it’s really difficult to grade it. It ends with spicy protected gear, no doubt one of the hardest routes in New England.”
I met Peter and Matt Bristol in the park and ride off interstate 89 in Richmond, Vermont. I was early, just like I am for most things; they were late, just like most climbers are. We hit the road together, in Peter’s hybrid, on a semiovercast day. By the time we made it to the approach trail the sun was out. The hike into the cliff was intense to say the least; these guys didn’t mess around when it comes to getting to the climb. I was full on sprinting just to keep up with them between photos. Once we made it to the base of the cliff, Peter climbed a “death slide” he called it, and gained the top of the cliff; setting up a rope for me to hang from. Matt and I continued up the trail and as I huffed and puffed, thinking about how I needed to get in shape, Matt talked about how he thought that there were more acorns on the ground then in previous years, and how he thought we were in for a long winter, he didn’t seem too psyched about that...
Young Peter Kamitses crushing it, dreads and all!
Written by: David Crothers
2010 NOVEMBER I DECEMBER
www.climberism.com
33
Peter Kamitses working Stoning the Fascist. Belayer: Matt Bristol Photos: David Crothers
34 www.climberism.com NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2010
2010 NOVEMBER I DECEMBER
www.climberism.com
35
36 www.climberism.com NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2010
GUIDE REVIEW Kel Rossiter on the North Ridge of Forbidden Peak Photo by Dave Walter
Adventure Spirit Guides ABOUT Kel Rossiter owns and operates Adventure Spirit Guides based out of Burlington Vermont. Kel started his climbing career in the Pacific Northwest after some time in the military and a summit of Mount Adams. Since then Kel has guided and climbed throughout the world. His impressive climbing resume includes four continents, the West Rib of Denali in Alaska, extensive climbing in the Italian Alps, and much more. GUIDING SERVICES Kel holds many certificates including National Association for Search and Rescue (NASAR) Search and Rescue Technician Level 3 Certified, American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Rock Instructor Course, American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Alpine Guide Course, American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education (AIARE) Levels 1, 2, 3 and the list goes on. With over fifteen years of professional guiding experience, Kel leads individual clients and groups throughout New York, New Hampshire, Vermont and beyond. Helping clients pursue, learn, and advance their skills is what Adventure Spirit Guides is passionate about. PROFESIONALISM Outside of his professional guiding career, Kel has been on the board of CRAG-VT from two years and helped acquire two major climbing areas in Vermont; Upper West and Carcass Crag. He is also a faculty member of Johnson State College’s Outdoor Education program, and teach’s outdoor skills and lead expeditions for the University of Vermont, the University of New Hampshire, Georgetown University, and other schools. ANSWERED Essential piece of gear? Your head, it is important to stay focused. Why hire a guide? A guide can enrich your climbing experience in many ways: enhancing safety, providing information about the place you’re in, advancing your skills, and expanding your potential range of climbing objectives. INFORMATION For more information on Adventure Spirit Guides please visit www.adventurespiritguides.com.
2010 Northea
Alan Cattabriga aka “Alfonzo” climbing firth ice. Photo Doug Millen of NEice.com
38 www.climberism.com NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2010
ast Ice Season
2010 NOVEMBER I DECEMBER
Alan Cattabriga climbing Damnation Gully Mt Washington. Photo Doug Millen of NEice.com
www.climberism.com
39
M
ost of us are enjoying what warm weather, if any, we have left of the season. Some have already bunkered down inside and fighting off thoughts of the first Nor’easter that will bring buckets of precipitation if not mountains of snow to the region. The high peaks are getting snow, the valleys have shed leaves and ice is forming slowly on drenched the rock. At this point in the season most climbers are probably done climbing outside and have started to tally up some mileage on plastic; while a few of us are using handwarmers in our chalk bags and climbing what little dry rock we have left. There are also a few anxious ice heads out there dry tooling around on whatever they can get their axes wet on; dry suit and all. Putting it all aside, this is a time for transition. The leaves have fallen to the ground, and the nights are colder. Fewer climbers are seen at the cliffs and high up on the snowy peaks ice has started to form. A few climbers have begun making their way, picks in hand, to remote alpine areas in search of cold water-ice and have started to prepare for another great year! Allan Cattabriga is one of those climbers. On October 10, 2010 just four days earlier than last year, Allan was the first to stab ice this season. Off to a late morning start Doug Millen, owner of NEice.com, and Allan headed up to Mt. Washington’s Huntington Ravine and found ideal ice climbing conditions. The weekend prior, the two had been in the same area rock climbing. It’s amazing how quickly seasons can change in the Northeast. I caught up with Allan a few days after and when asked if he thought it was the official start to the season, he laughed and said, “It’s my start to the season. Some folks think you need ropes and gear to officially initiate it, everyone has their own opinion.” By mid morning according to the post Doug wrote on NEice.com, the sun had taken its toll. With cool temps in the immediate forecast we should start seeing some nice conditions. Stay safe out there and keep warm, ice season is just around the corner! Written by: David Crothers
40 www.climberism.com NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2010
THE LIBRARY
EASTERN by Todd Foster
TIDE
T
odd Foster takes us through a season of climbing in the granite rich Nova Scotia. From Winter to Fall, get an insiders view from hot to cold. The award winning and visually astounding footage shows off beautiful climbing areas like no other I have seen. From seaside bouldeing with water splashing at your back to mid-summer flies that look like they will eat you alive. This climbing documentary is a must see and before you know it, you’ll be knocking on Todd’s door asking for beta! Check out www.pulldown.ca for ordering information and local beta.
2010 NOVEMBER I DECEMBER
An Ice Climber’s Guide to Northern New England by: S. Peter Lewis & Rick Wilcox
I
f you live in New England and you climb ice you have either heard of this book or you own it. The third edition released in 2003 brings us 320 pages or route info and highlights all the major ice climbing areas in the Northeast including Lake Willoughby, Smuggler’s Notch, Cathedral Ledge, Frankenstein Cliff, Mt. Washington Ravines, Katahdin and more. You can find this book retailing for about $30 in most Northeast Gear shops. For more ice climbing information visit www.NEice.com
www.climberism.com
41
Food for climbers Question: What is the best food out there for a climber? Answer: Beer Reasoning: What is better than a great local beer before, during, or after a hard day of climbing? I do not know anything else that goes better with climbing than beer. Here in Northeast we have many local microbrews; which leads to endless enjoyment of perfect combinations of beer and climbing. Beer has even been compared in studies as having the same healthy and beneficial effects as wine, so I do not see any way for this combination to go wrong. Everyone should try and support their local breweries and drink good beer. Some may ask why and how do I support my local breweries? The answer is simple, buy local at the liquor stores, go to local brew pubs, order a local beer at the bar or just cook with it at home. There are so many different ways to enjoy beer whether in a public or private setting but one thing is certain: local beer should be your number one choice. Being in Vermont opened my eyes to beer and all of the different options out there. Here is a list of some of my favorite local beers: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Magic Hat #9 Long Trail Ale Otter Creek Alpine Black IPA Wolaver’s Pumpkin Ale Rock Art’s Vermonster
Beer comes in many shapes, sizes, and varieties. Whether you like the lighter beer or prefer the heavy darker beer, the consensus is beer is great! So sit down, relax and enjoy a local beer after a hard day of sending. Written By: Megan Davin
42 www.climberism.com NOVEMBER I DECEMBER 2010
LAST PITCH
Get Psyched Eat Food Send Harder Feed the Addiction! www.climberism.com
Phil Branca sends late season boulders in Smugglers Notch Photo: David Crothers
2010 NOVEMBER I DECEMBER
www.climberism.com
43
Climberism Magazine Contribute Advertise Get Published Climb A Northeast Climbing Magazine www.climberism.com Feed the Addiction