Climberism Magazine Issue #4 by Climberism Magazine

January | February 2010

Issue 4

climberism FEEDING CLIMBER ADDICTION | M AG A Z I N E

IN DEFENSE OF ADVENTURE

WHY RISK IS AN ESSENTIAL INGREDIENT

SOLID ICE FOR SOLID WOMEN

A BEGINNER’S TAKE ON ICE CLIMBING

VERMONTERS PLACE BIG AT OURAY EAT CHEESE AT THE CRAG | A WOUNDED SOLDIER | GEAR TALK | AND SO MUCH MORE

www.climberism.com

Inside the Mag

CONTENTS

7 9 14 18

A WOUNDED SOLDIER LETTERS

IN DEFENSE OF ADVENTURE

SOLID ICE FOR SOLID WOMEN

Contributors

Elizabeth Paushter Elizabeth grew up exploring the Adirondacks. She began rock climbing in Vermont and found instant excitement in the sport’s movement, focus, and strength. She will take the SPI course soon to mix her profession of teaching with her love of climbing. And as a new ice climber, she swings her tools every chance she gets.

Marc Chauvin After thirty years of guiding, numerous courses and exams, Marc is the first internationally certified guide east of the Rockies and is a member of the IFMGA, the highest level of recognition in guiding. Marc has many years of guiding on the east coast as well as numerous trips to Mount McKinley, Aconcagua, the Himalayas, Ecuador and Peru. Marc completed a number of big walls in Yosemite including an ascent of El Capitan’s Tangerine Trip.

Matt Shove Matt Shove has climbed, instructed and guided guests in mountain areas all over the United States, including central Connecticut’s Traprock crags; the Gunks, Catskills and Adirondack Mountains in New York; New Hampshire’s Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges and White Mountain area; Katahdin and Acadia National Park in Maine; Wyoming’s Devil’s Tower and Grand Teton Range. Matt has also conducted on site safety for film crews in mountain areas as well as in studios. He has conducted training programs for the US Coast Guard and Department of Homeland Security.

2011 JANUARY | FEBRUARY

climberism | MAGAZINE

Get these things off the floor! Refer 5 friends and get a free Climberism shirt!

learn how by clicking this page! climberism | MAGAZINE

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2011

from the net. . . www.facebook.com/climberism

www.cathedralstyle.blogspot.com/

If you woke up on a portaledge 1000 ft above the ground by yourself what 3 items do you wish you had with you?

“After an exciting afternoon on the ground dodging missiles in the south facing sun, Poledance went down. This new route at Frankenstein is right of the Bragg-Pheasant in a spot I had never seen any real ice before. The oblique afternoon sun cooled things off and we went for it. We all had a chance to lead the easy first pitch, but it was Kevin Mahoney’s turn when we finally had a chance to do the pitch that mattered.”

-- Craig Morrill says: A jar of industrial strength super glue remover, 3-4 medium squids, and Lita Ford’s 2009 release: Wicked Wonderland (no cd player necessary). -- Andrea Charest says: a good book, good weather, and a bottomless poop tube... i could be happy up there for a while! -- Kyle Michael says: spiderman, a mustache, and 1980’s spandex Whats the best climbing booty you’ve found at the crag?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

www.benandkrissy.blogspot.com/ “I warmed up quick and went straight to “work”. I made a couple of failed attempts that were no where near close to sending. No send today I thought...I took a rest, put my shoes back on, and climbed it seemingly effortlessly - weird. Second Ascent.”

-- Maureen Whalley Beck says: Beer. -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

2011 JANUARY | FEBRUARY

climberism | MAGAZINE

Matt Bristol Working the Highgrade - Marshfield, Vermont

ADVERTISE 6

climberism | MAGAZINE

info@climberism.com

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2011

A WOUNDED SOLDIER

I do not know Rich personally, however our northeast community is small enough that some of you that read this may know him and are not aware of this horrible accident. From reading what folks on Gunks.com have written, Rich’s insurance is covering a large portion of his hospital bill but it will not cover the on going medical expenses, nor compensate for lost wages during his recovery time. The Catskills Ice Climbing Festival is coming up and if you are planning a visit, stop by Rock & Snow to learn about how you can help Rich. Folks in the community around the Gunks have gotten together and created “harness route cards” for select areas. Learn more about these hi-res cards at Gunks.com and Rock & Snow.

courtesy theuberfall.com photo Jason Karl

ometimes communities are brought together by laughter and fun, sometimes through shared hobbies or interests and sometimes they are brought together because of tragic and scary events. Whether these events end in despair, a newly learned life lesson, or in some cases both, they are for the most part, out of our hands. We do not have the ability to control every situation that presents itself to us. However, we do have the ability to pull together and become stronger as a community and educate others. Rich Romano recently took a long and unexpected fall a few months ago in City of Rocks, Idaho. The rope he and his partner were using was too short and while being lowered to the ground, the rope slipped through his partners belay device and he took a serious fall.

2011 JANUARY | FEBRUARY

climberism | MAGAZINE

Editor’s Note It is almost mid January and I’m sitting in my apartment freezing because I’m too cheap to turn my heat above any temperature beyond keeping the pipes from icing over, it’s training Anyway, issue #4 is the best yet, in my opinion. With so much content from other climbers/ guides it has been a blast to pull this thing together. I have had the opportunity to talk with so many new people and get them psyched about what Climberism Magazine is doing. Also I would like to introduce two key people that have come on board to help me bring Climberism Magazine to the next level. Julian Rodier, who has been a tremendous help with writing articles for the website and proofreading. and James Thompson, who is now the brains behind the technical aspects of the website. I can now officially say WE hope you find a variety of content in this issue and that it interests you enough to consider contributing something that means a lot to you. Either way we present you with issue #4! Contribute submission@climberism.com

climberism FEEDING CLIMBER ADDICTION | M A G A Z I N E

January & February Issue Editor David Crothers Assistant Editor Julian Rodier Technical Director James Thompson ADVERTISE info@climberism.com SUBSCRIBE http://www.climberism.com/new-subscribers/ Help us grow stories, contribute your content to climberism magazine at submissions@climberism.com Climberism Magazine 26 1/2 North Avenue Burlington, VT 05401 Most of the activities depicted in this magazine carry significant amounts of risk with the potential for serious injury or death. We do not recommend you try or participate in any of the activities depicted within this publication. Seek professional guidance or help from someone of expertise. You assume all risks associated with your decision. .................

climberism | MAGAZINE

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2011

YOUR LETTERS from issue # 3

Postcards

While it’s great that the state of Vermont has opened Megan Davin’s eyes to the world of beer, the climber in her needs to reach beyond the top shelf of her local Cumberland Farm’s (ie. Magic Hat #9), and strive to drink Vermont’s finest:

As a climber, I drink a lot of beer. It’s the truth and I admit it. And I found it suspect that your “Food for Climbers” article in your Nov/Dec 2010 issue only covered beer from Vermont (note: there are other great beers in the 1 Heady Topper (IPA), The Alchemist, Waterbury VT 2 Everett (Porter), Hill Farmstead Brewery, Greensboro VT Northeast outside of the Green Mountain State!). So, I’ve compiled a list of my top 5 brews from outside VT. Hope 3 Fayston Maple Imperial Stout, you dig it! Lawson’s Liquids, Waitsfield VT 4 Lincoln Lager, Bobcat Café, Bristol VT 1. White Birch’s Belgian Style Pale Ale (Hookset, NH) 5 Black Moon (Black IPA), Rock Art, Morrisville VT – At 8.5%, this beer will make you sleepy, but it’s got a fruity taste that the ladies will dig. Jim Vanderbrook from Elmore, Vermont 2. Allagash White (Portland, ME) – A classic. If you haven’t tried it yet, buy it today. Allagash gets 100% of -- Hey Vanderbrook, most climbers can’t afford these its electricity from wind power to boot! finer beers, hell let alone the top shelf of Scumbies. 3. Southern Tier’s Pumking Imperial Pumpkin Ale The beers you speak of all remind me of Rednecks and (Lakewood, NY) – Drink this one on Halloween and you’ll sheep, if you know what I am getting at. Are you one of those guys? If you want us to drink from the finest beer quickly forget about that Raggedy Andy costume your girlfriend made you wear. fountains, by all means send away, my address is on 4. Smuttynose Really Old Brown Dog Ale (Portsmouth, the previous page. Until then, I’ll be dipping way below NH) – 10.9% alcohol by volume. Enough said. Live free the top shelf; we’re talking Genesse, Ice House, and of or die. course my favorite PBR. All American boyi! None of that 5. Naragansett Lager (Providence, RI) -- A tall can of laCanadian crap! ger “Made on Honor.” Perfect compliment to a long day ------------------------------------------------------------------------- of summer climbing. Magic Hat #9 sort of tastes like cat vomit. Elsie Johnson from Stowe, VT -- My friend Jarred ate cat vomit once. He wasn’t sober, he must of had three #9’s, boy was he a goner. My old man likes #9 but he also listens to Tina Turner and watches Steven Seagal movies in 3D when he’s alone. I’ll take your word for it, how about that...

Brady Thomas from Conway, NH -- You “found it suspect?” you sound like one of those emails from I get from a Middle Eastern internet cafe telling me: “I am Mrs Helen Moore, a devoted Christian. I have chosen you for an inheritance. Please contact me for more details. Private contact email. Regards Thank You.” Pumpkin Ale? Do you even climb? Lift your skirt Brady and enjoy the sweet smell of a dirtbags asshole! Just kidding but for real Smuttynose is killer strong! Rock on brutha!

------------------------------------------------------------------------Love the magazine and website! It’s great to see lots of local climbers highlighted and your videos online are super. I especially liked your coverage of Peter Kamitses sending Speed of Live in Farley, MA alongside the classic clip of Dave Graham’s FA of the problem. Well done!

2011 JANUARY | FEBRUARY

------------------------------------------------------------------------Send your letters to climberismmagazine@climberism.com

climberism | MAGAZINE

GEAR | TALK GEAR TALK

- “it ’s not just gossip”

Julbo Dirt // Sunglasses In the face of variable northeast climbing conditions, the Julbo Dirt sunglasses adapt quickly to every terrain. Route finding? No problem, the light weight ballistic photochromic material makes the glasses great for days in Huntington Ravine during white out conditions or sunny days at Willoughby. The Zebra lens come with a lifetime anti-fog coating for steamy approaches or huffing up routes during spring like conditions. With a wide variety of frames to choose from there is certainly something for everyone

what we’ve been using

^ ^

Petzl Dragonfly’s 8.2 // Double Ropes You either love them or you hate them, but don’t diss until you try them out. These hot colored-skinnierthan-my-sausage-links-for-breakfest-double-ropes will not only make the young and unruly look classy at the crag but the old and crunchy will look solid and polished! But seriously the Duratec Dry treatment sheds more water than a pissing contests with your friends. Each core and sheath strand are individually treated for times when you find yourself out in what was supposed to be prime conditions and now has turned into looking for the keys to your motorboat. Wet snowfield and dripping icicles are no match for the Dragonfly. And if 60 meter isn’t enough than the 70 meters rope length will give you the reach and the ability to rappel safely to the ground.

10 climberism | MAGAZINE

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2011

GEAR TALK

2011 JANUARY | FEBRUARY

climberism | MAGAZINE

ount

Valley Ice

Anne Skidmore

very year ice climbers from around the northeast gather for the oldest ice climbing event on the east coast. Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival is centrally located in the ice climbing capital of North Conway, New Hampshire. Because the ice climbing is so good, climbers of all abilities unite for three days on the best blue ice walls in the area! Mark your calendars for this three day classic February 4- 6, 2011! First time ice climbing? No problem! Register for one of the ice climbing clinics Friday, Saturday, or Sunday and climb with local guiding legends and pro climbers like Kevin Mahoney, Mark Synnott, Matt McCormick, Janet Bergman, Bayard Russell, Emilie Drinkwater, Si-

12 climberism | MAGAZINE

las Rossi and many others. Afterwards, come join the Apres-Climbing party on Friday and Saturday evenings at International Mountain Equipment (IME). All the major reps from Outdoor Research, Grivel, Petzl, Sterling Ropes, Wild Things, La Sportiva and so many more will be there hanging out and chatting with climbers! Come grab a bite to eat, grab a drink, and mingle for the best climbing beta around! Don’t go trotting off just yet, the events aren’t over! At 7:30 pm on Friday night at the Cranmore Fitness Center, the highly anticipated Homegrown Film Fest will be featuring three New England climbers and their footage of New England inspired climbing; including Jim Surette’s

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2011

ashington

e Festival

footage of Steve House soloing Repentance! After the exciting New England films be prepared for the action packed dry tooling event hosted by Freddie Wilkinson! Bring your dancing shoes for more shenanigans during Saturday night’s dance party with DJ Mon Voyage Neon. Don’t get too footloose yet, a multimedia show will be at the Cranmore Fitness Center and presented by Patagonia athlete Kelly Cordes on Saturday evening starting at 7:30 pm. Also bring the cash- clip because a silent auction benefiting the Mountain Rescue Service will be in full action! Get pumped, come party, come climb! See you there!

2011 JANUARY | FEBRUARY

Note: Want to compete in the dry tooling event? It’s simples, just e-mail mwvicefest@gmail.com and ask for the Ice Fest Competitor Qualifier Application, fill it out and send it back! A few more climbers will be selected and all applications must be received by January 17th. If you’re attending the 2011 Smuggs Ice Bash dry tooling comp on January 28th, one wild card competitor will be given an invitation.

climberism | MAGAZINE

t seems that risk taking is a common trait in people. Not everyone needs risk but many do and even among those that enjoy risk sports, we often criticize those who take more risks than we would. True adventure however requires risk, real or perceived. As someone progresses through the learning curve of a risk sport it becomes harder to perceive a risk where little risk actually exists. For instance in climbing the beginner sees risk in top-roping at the gym. Soon the risk of the top-rope fades and that person seeks out to lead in the gym, then that fades and they take it outside to a sport area, soon they find themselves seeking out cliffs that are in a more natural state and do not have a safety infrastructure in place or at least one that has minimal infrastructure. Now I know that not everyone that rock climbs is seeking risk. Some enjoy the movement, the social scene, the views and environment and even the cool equipment. That is not to say that adventure or risk is completely out of the mix, it just isn’t as important nor is it a priority. I would even submit that adventure as a priority in rock climbing is as variable and individual as each person is. It is that individual view of reasonable risk that often creates conflict about style. To a top roper leading might seem so risky as to be reckless, to the sport leader, traditional climbing may seem reckless and to the traditional leader, soloing might seem reckless. However to someone who enjoys hiking or trail running, all rock climbing may seem reckless. So if adventure requires risk and if that risk is real, than there will be times when there will be negative consequences. For the most part we call these negative consequences accidents but an accident is an unforeseen and unplanned event or circumstance. But in adventure, risk is expected even sought after, so when the consequences of the risk taken are negative it is not exactly accurate to call it an accident. Oddly the very fact that negative consequences could occur is why it is adventure and why some choose that particular activity. So for me the “pursuit of happiness” requires adventure and in particular, adventure in the mountains. That means, to me, terrain that is for the most part infrastructure free. I don’t believe that all cliffs and moun-

14 climberism | MAGAZINE

Drew Koff on Positive Reinforcement WI4-

IN DEFENSE OF ADVENTURE

tains should be infrastructure free, I respect others needs for that infrastructure but I would like the same respect for my needs and as with all things there is the gray area, because I do sometimes enjoy that infrastructure. My happiness is also dependent on not being criminalized for my risk taking. I do not want society to officially judge my risk tolerance or legislate how much risk I am allowed to take. Of late, many make the argument that society, through their government, has the right to do just that because of the cost, and yes the risk of rescue. I believe the need to rescue an adventurer is more a need of society than it is a consequence of adventure. Our humanity pushes us to help those in trouble either directly or through our institutions. To corrupt that humanity into an excuse to regulate and deny us the freedom of the hills causes me great anxiety. It is true that rescues cost money and sometimes lives but as is often stated to justify the cost of war “freedom isn’t free.” I use that concept here to justify the cost of our need/desire to help. It seems that the amount we as a society spend on the negative consequences of mountaineering is a small price to pay for the freedom to travel in the risky natural world of the mountains.

Marc Chauvin is northeast guide and has an extensive conditions archive of the northeast on his website. He has considerable local and international guiding experience. He lives in North Conway, NH http://www.chauvinguides.com/

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2011

Come join the fun February 4-6 - North Conway, NH

CONSIDER CONTRIBUTING SO WE DON’T HAVE TO LOOK LIKE THIS GUY...

SUBMISSIONS@CLIMBERISM.COM 2011 JANUARY | FEBRUARY

climberism | MAGAZINE

photo by: Walter Zeankowski Deb Beat playing around on some ice in the Adirondacks

16 climberism | MAGAZINE

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2011

Patrick Cooke climbing the ultra-classic Cilley Barber. WI4 on Mt katahdin, ME photo by: Andrew Koff

2011 JANUARY | FEBRUARY

climberism | MAGAZINE

CHICKS ON CRAG

Chicks on Crag

olid Ice or a Solid Woman

y life tends to be a walking paradox: I hate being cold but I love winter, I don’t like heights but I climb 800 foot cliffs, and my 108 pounds can lift a surprising amount of weight. When winter hit New England last year, I said I was not going to try ice climbing—cold, wet, scary ice? No. Climbing on rock was one thing, climbing on slippery, easy-breaking ice was a whole other game that I had no interest in playing.

pain later.” And all I heard from that was “vomit” and “pain.” I giggled nervously, checked my rope and crampons, swung my ice picks around my wrists (no one trusted me climbing without leashes), and made my way over to the waterfall.

But when a friend of mine showed up with my size boots, extra ice tools, and hand warmers, I only had two choices in front me: work on my graduate thesis or go play in the woods. Yea, tough choice. I put on all of my Black Diamond, Mammut, North Face, and Patagonia gear (it pays off having a boyfriend who works in a gear

It was beautiful. Stoic. Unyielding. I swung my first pick high above my head, shouted a good “woot!” when it stuck solidly into the ice, swung the other, and babystepped up to my arms. Shake. Swing. Step. I glided up the route, forgetting the -10-degree wind chill and my fear, and I wished the waterfall to never end.

shop), opened bags of foot and hand warmers, said bye to my dog (just in case I didn’t come back), and headed in 10-degree weather to Vermont’s Smuggler’s Notch. Smuggler’s Notch, known for its ski resort, is close to some of Vermont’s most popular winter get-a-ways and attractions—Stowe and, of course, the Ben and Jerry’s Factory. But deep inside the notch, tourists are scarce, and aside from the occasional backcountry skier all you see are snow-covered trees, frozen boulders, and vertical waterfalls. And amidst this winter wonderland, all you feel is the not-so-pleasant wind tunnel that sweeps through the notch. The only advice that I received from my ice-expert friend was “shake out your arms often so you don’t vomit from

18 climberism | MAGAZINE

What amazed me most about climbing ice was the mental transformation that occurred organically. Nothing was paradoxical and nothing invaded my mind except my movement. I was not a skinny 26-year old bookworm attempting to ice climb. I was strong. Focused. Empowered. As ice season grows near, I am stocking up on hand and foot warmers, and I’m saving up for my own gear. And I can’t help wondering what it would feel like to leadclimb ice. Find more from Elizabeth Paushte at http://dizzylizzy101. wordpress.com/ and on twitter @epaush.

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2011

Elizabeth Paushte Ice Climbing Smugglers Notch, Vermont

2011 JANUARY | FEBRUARY

climberism | MAGAZINE

Ouray’s main gorge

f you have ever been to Ouray, than you know it is no small walk in the park getting there, especially during the winter. Unless your forking out some coin and landing a small jet on local runways, your making the six to seven hour drive. That is if traffic doesn’t have you backed up, the tunnel is open, and conditions are perfect. Otherwise, your in for a long ride, though it can be quite scenic any direction you go to get there. Ouray is home to one of the most famous and most hyped Ice Festival in the country. It is so well known it brings climbers from all over the world to the small town of Ouray, Colorado. This year was no different, and once again a couple northeast climbers showed off their ability to tackle anything the route setters manifested for them. Josh Worley placed 5th for the second year in a row and Will Mayo placed 2nd with only 18 second left on the clock to finish! An outstanding effort for both climbers, though no one can seem to touch Josh Wharton who finished 1st with over 6 minutes left on the clock, he crushed the route almost effortlessly for his 3rd consecutive year in a row.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

GOES BIG IN OURAY

NOT TRES

The Thomaston Ice Quarry and it’s Access Issue

he Quarry has been a local climbing and training ground for over 20 years. I first swung my tools there in 1997, while I was home from college. I always recall people climbing there as I grew up nearby, and would ask my father to drive by if we were near. Ice climbing was never a popular pursuit here, but as climbing popularity and exposure increased, so did the crowds. The Thomaston Ice Quarry holds about 40 different ice climbs, with roadside access—I’ve always thought it had easier access than the North End of Cathedral Ledge. The property is privately owned by an elderly couple who live nearby. They winter in Florida and have stated that they had no idea this was climbing was occurring on their property. I find this troubling to believe, but I’m in no position to dispute this claim.

“The area was posted on Mountain Project claiming it was like the famous Ouray Ice Park--about as far from the truth as possible!” The popularity of this area exploded in years past. 5 years ago, you could arrive on a Saturday, and basically have the place to your self. Last winter, there were no routes available, as organized groups from all over southern New England swarmed to top rope there. Some groups even climbed at night with lanterns, spotlights and headlamps. This was difficult for me to tolerate as this was not low impact, displayed poor

20 climberism | MAGAZINE

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2011

SPASSING

s judgment and was clearly visible to anyone driving by. It would not be uncommon to see 50 people or more on a nice weekend day, and 25-30 cars parked along the road once the small 10 car lot was full. The area was posted on Mountain Project, claiming it was like the famous Ouray Ice Park---about as far from the truth as possible! In February 2010, a hiker (read neighborhood teenager) slipped on ice and fell 40 feet from the top of the cliff to the ground. He sustained serious injuries, and stories were published in the local newspapers (Waterbury Republican-American, Hartford Courant). The area was posted soon after. The posted signs were then removed by someone.

Climbing resumed, with guarded sense of security. By the end of the season, climbers were being asked to leave by the local police department. Locals were disappointed because it was a good place for a quick and easy workout, and was some of the only steep ice around. Over the summer, with time to think, local climbers along with the Ragged Mountain Foundation (local Access Fund Affiliate) got together to create a plan of action. The RMF sent a letter to the land owners expressing interest in opening a dialog that might result in property management, lease, donation or sale.. The landowner replied that they did not want to discuss anything until they return from Florida in May of 2011. While this sounds lightly optimistic, locals have made a strong effort to climb elsewhere and spread the word that climbing here is not permitted, and attempting to climb here may affect future negotiations for climbing access. RMF will reconnect with the land owners in May 2011. The area is currently posted â&#x20AC;&#x153;No Trespassing, Violators Will Be Prosecuted/Arrestedâ&#x20AC;? For now, we need to police ourselves. Take advantage of the closure to travel to other areas in the east, and please avoid trespassing on this property.

Matt Shove has been guiding and instructing for ten years. In 2010 he founded Ragged Mountain Guides, named after the famed Ragged Mountain climbing area. Matt guides extensively throughout the Northeast and the United States.

2011 JANUARY | FEBRUARY

climberism | MAGAZINE

Guide Review

CATHEDRAL MOUNTAIN GUIDES ABOUT Bayard Russell is the man behind Cathedral Mountain Guides. He has summited both Alaska’s Denali (Mt McKinley) and Mt. Hunter, completed multiple ascents of Yosemite Valley’s El Capitan, and established new routes throughout the northeast; ranging from multipitch 5.12d to M10 sport mixed and multipitch M9 trad. GUIDING SERVICES Bayard is not only an AMGA certified guide he is also a director of the Mountain Rescue Service (MRS), and a MRS Team leader. He is well-equipped to take you on your next climbing adventure. Whether it’s your first time rock climbing or you want to try your hand at mountaineering, swinging tools on steep ice or scratch around on mixed terrain, Cathedral Mountain Guides can give you a true northeast experience. BEYOND GUIDING Outside of guiding I am a climber. All the time spent at the crag and in the mountains during the work week hasn’t taken the edge off my love of climbing. In fact, I enjoy it more now than I ever have. Doing new routes is really my thing, that is what keeps it exciting for me. That said, there are plenty of old classics around my New Hampshire backyard that also keep the psyche up. I have a switch that

22 climberism | MAGAZINE

is temperature dependent, it goes off and I change modes. Right now it’s in winter mode - guiding and looking for new drips to whack away at. Q&A Essential piece of gear? As silly as it may sound, a rope. A good rope is a beautiful thing, it’s the fundamental thing that allows us to do what we do. The connection it makes between climbers allows for the great friendships that really make days out great. Why hire a guide? Because a good guide can really streamline a day, even for someone who can get out on there own, and even lead. A good local guide knows their way around an area, can offer alternatives to standing around waiting in a queue, be efficient, and offer professional expertise and good solid practiced ideas that are the result of professional training, the constant discourse of a professional community and the personal experience of years spent in the mountains. INFORMATION For more information on Cathedral Mountain Guides please visit www.whitemountainrockandice.com.

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2011

Louis Rousseau Gasherbrum I quebec climber attempts winter ascent in pakistan’s karakoram

his year should prove to be a busy year for Louis Rousseau, a North Face alpinist from Quebec. Rousseau will be traveling to the Karakoram Range of Pakistan this year to attempt the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum I, also known as Hidden Peak or K5 (8068m). Gasherbrum I is the 11th highest peak in the world and if the team is successful it would be the mountains first winter ascent in history. Recently two of the five partner team unexpectedly backed out of the trip for unspecified “personal reasons,” causing them a huge financial blow. Despite the set back, Louis and his two remaining climbing partners, Gerfried Göschl and Alex Txikon, are still aiming for their target,”Difficulties are motivating us to work harder on our ‘dream project’, we will take it in a positive way,” the team told ExplorersWeb. Way to prosper guys! In 2009 Louis and four others established a new route and a jaw dropping first ascent on another 8000 meter peak, Nanga Parbat, in alpine style. Rousseau has

2011 JANUARY | FEBRUARY

also attempted K2 three times but hopes this summer’s fourth try will finally bring home the sweet summit bliss on the world’s most dangerous mountain. Louis is currently on an acclimatization trip to Aconcagua in South America. He will be flying to Pakistan next week to meet the rest of his group. Currently there are two other teams in the Karakoram, an Italian team waiting to attempt the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II and two Polish climbers are waiting for the right moment at the base of Nanga Parbat. The race is on to see who will be the first to write history! by: Julian Rodier (Jules)

climberism | MAGAZINE

The Library

ne Mountain Thousand Summits, written by Freddie Wilkinson, a NH based alpinist and writer, tells in vivid detail the events that left eleven dead two summers ago on the world’s deadliest mountain, K2. Although well publicized at the time, the first few days of August 2008 were chaotic to say the least. Utter confusion in high altitude climbing, K2 especially, is a recipe for disaster that is told in this riveting and detailed story. The author’s experience in the mountains shines through as he tells the story hour by hour of more than twenty different climbers who were on the advance summit team those horrific few days. Like few before, his book describes the unique relationships between mountaineers, media, and sherpas, and how they have changed since the golden age. His research is compelling and the stories he tells from the sherpas involved makes you wonder how amazing it would be to be born without the lazy gene! I recommend this book to anyone drawn to mountaineering and the risks involved. It is a gripping story told from many different sides, and highlights the controversial world of high altitude climbing: its heroism and its heartbreak. Pick it up! And then check out the throwback K2 film, creatively called K2, for the visual fix!

reedom of the Hills is not a book, it’s a necessity, like New Kids on the Block to the 1990’s teenybopper. Mountaineers Books has done it again and brought back this reference classic for the 8th time to celebrate it’s 50th anniversary. It seems the 8th edition hasn’t missed a beat. You can find updated illustrations, a new chapter on conditioning, extensive revisions to rescue and first response, aid climbing, waterfall climbing and ice climbing. Everything you need to be the most badass northeast climber at the crag. I feel like a kid in a candy store when reading the amount of information that’s displayed in this tool. No matter what level you climb at, from a newbster with a shinny new rope to a crunchy old timer, Freedom of the Hills should probably be up there next to “Learn How to Read and Write.” Happy Birthday Freedom of the HIlls! We’ll bring the beers!

24 climberism | MAGAZINE

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2011

GOOD AT THE CRAG AND WITH NOODLES

FOOD FOR CLIMBERS

2011 JANUARY | FEBRUARY

Gettin’ Cheesy There’s nothing sexier than passing around a big hunk of Cabot Extra Sharp Cheddar with your climbing partners. After a hard climb, you pull down the plastic wrapper, avoid your friend’s teeth marks, and take a big bite. It certainly gives wine & cheese snobs a little slap in the face, and it provides a hungry climber with instant satiation. My cheese-and-climbing obsession began during a two-week trip to J-Tree where my only utensil was a spoon and the only time I allotted for lunch was a quick walk to the next climb. Cheddar cheese (I choose Cabot because I’m a Vermonter and that’s what we do) is fairly resilient in warm weather and packs a good amount of protein, calcium, and Vitamin D. (Did you know that Vitamin D helps the body create serotonin, the mood-lifter? Cheesy climber = happy climber!) So if you’re like me and pack light or never find the time to make a lunch, throw in a block of cheddar for a stomach-filling energy boost. written by: Elizabeth Paushter http://livingflavor.wordpress.com/ https://twitter.com/epaush

climberism | MAGAZINE

TELL YOUR FRIENDS THE

BOOTY’S FREE!

CLICK HERE TO SUBSCRIBE FOR FREE