PHMA MAGAZINE Pakistan Hosiery Manufacturers and Exporters Association Editorial Note …….
Energy Challenges Overshadow Opportunities Dear readers, Welcome to new issue Economy of Pakistan is passing through very critical stage since every segment of industry is almost crippled due to severe load shedding of gas and electric power. Self generation of power through diesel has increased the power cost to manifold making the overall cost of production on much higher side. Opinions of government circles, opposition politicians and the men of knowledge differ a lot and nobody is prepared to take a responsible step to bring the country out of crises. The import bill of generators and the diesel fueling these generators has surpassed the cost of workable options that could save us from crises. On the one side we are paying heavy cost on alternate solutions (which still remain unable to solve the problem) and on the other we are suffering from huge economic loss in the shape of business losses as well as unemployment of masses.
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Is there no one to feel the pain of situation and at least think of any practical way out. People holding the control of country seem to have least interest in the country’s affairs, rather corruption is galloping everything. We have been living on ad hoc arrangements which caused huge losses in our national life.
L e t u s re s o r t t o permanent settlement of the issues as only then our efforts would bring some results. Let us see what the up coming budget brings for the country.
Mohammad Ayub Secretary PHMA (North Zone)
Future of Garments Industry and ICT Need Investment in information and communication Technology (ICT) is the sole decisive factor governing the future of the garments industry in Pakistan. Well-informed decisions about ICT can improve the chances of competitive marketing in overseas markets for garments. The trends in the global textiles and garments industry mean that it will be harder for businesses in many countries to prosper or even survive. The garment exports might cease to be a major sector in some developing countries, especially in Pakistan. The companies involve simple ICT applications cannot meet buyer requirements. A developing country should undertake when drawing up a realistic strategy for ICT-enabled growth in any particular sector. A value-chain approach in ICT may reshape some of the recent and future trends in the textiles and g a r m e n t s i n d u s t r y . The speed to market and a full package service are the two main current requirements facing suppliers. Therefore like other industries, ICT will gain importance in textiles and garments over the next 10 years. Technology is usually affordable at some entry level and it is increasingly a requirement from certain types of buyers and for certain types of products.
Garments industry requires investment in information and communication technology (ICT) in future ICT can help meet the demand for shorter leadtimes, and will enable smaller firms to play a role in integrated supply chains. This impact will not be uniform: in some situations, ICT will be indispensable; in others it will provide a competitive edge.
Introduction of ICT is itself a challenging business step, and needs to be a wellresearched part of a much broader business plan. The “willingness to change” and the “ability to handle transparency” are the two most important attributes for a garment company to implement ICT systems. With thanks to: The Economist Pakistan
Pay Attention before you get too late!!! 1. Pakistan has been taking advantage for the availability of cheap labor. On the worst end the less attention for capacity building is promoting unproductive labor force. 2. Our industry needs to upgrade dyeing, fabric processing and designing to catch high end market get premium prices. 3. Computerized machinery is very good but keeping eye on efficient utilization of is very important. 4. We have good managers and need serious attention to transform managers into leaders to lead industry to new heights 5. The buyer-seller relations have shifted from trade at distance to trade through sharing of production and process. Buyer is no more interested to buy only what is produced but he is also interested to know how is produced. The image of Pakistan needs to be softened and improved to facilitate regular visit of potential buyers to the garments production facilities.
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Textile Effluent Treatment Dr. Irfan Ahmed Sheikh College of Earth and Environmental Science Punjab University has developed a treatment of textile effluent at a far lower energy and water cost with almost zero waste products. The project has Europe wide patent under the name “Method and Device for Dyeing a Textile Substrate”. The project is co-developed and tested by a German company and partially funded by Environment Protection Department (EDP) of Punjab. This patent was developed by Dr. Nasir Ahmed and Dr. Irfan Ahmed Sheikh along with Johannes Schmitz; a German researcher. It was the first internationally patent technology in post-partition and revolutionized the operations of textile industry. The technology makes use of “Advanced Oxidation Processes” involving oxidation with Fenton hydrogen peroxide, Ozone and Ultraviolet in order to develop a real time process that can color and discolor cloth in a cyclical process. Traditional method of exhaust dying and bleaching cloth utilizes 100-130 liters of water for every 1kg of Fabric. This process includes a severe washing-off process which has to be repeated eight to nine times to wash out all the unfixed dyes. Moreover, some of the washing steps have to be conducted around 90 degree Celsius. In addition, the by product of the traditional product was effluent containing cancer-causing carcinogens, hydrogen peroxide, sodium hydroxide, sodium chloride and unfixed dye-stuffs. Using biological method to treat the effluent was impossible owing to presence of hard-to-treat chemicals, dyes and carcinogens. This new method uses far less water, heat, and produces only carbon dioxide and water as it’s by products. Using new method and technology, the maximum fill and drain of machine using fresh water is four times as opposed to 8-10 times in conventional washing. The whole process occurs at room temperature. The waste water produced by the process is clean enough to drink.
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Technical Textile A promising Future Mr. Mushtaq Mangat
Traditional textile deals with the general demands of human being, mainly it covers clothing, made ups, bead wears, etc. whereas, technical textile is a product made to serve a particular and technical requirement; water proof jackets, filters, fire proof seats etc. Technical textile is a niche market and its characteristics are quite different from the traditional textile market. Based on the different reports, it is believed that technical textile sector will have a significant share in future. In addition, there are several drivers of growth prevailing. For example, changes in life style, requirement of specific products, process complexities, quest of better productivity, hazardous incidents, fast movement of vehicles, security situation, advancement in medical science, occurrence of extreme situation, terrorist attacks, protection of soldiers during war, and even threat of nuclear war have increased the demand of technical textile. Textile history tells us that before the invention of synthetic fibre; only natural fibres were main raw material for technical textiles. It may be vegetable, protein or mineral fibres. one way to make technical textiles was treatment with certain chemicals to improve their functionality, like, application of wax to make it water proof and second way was application of different fabric formation techniques e.g. tufting, stuffing, knitting, braiding are a few examples. Conversely, frequently inventions of material that have distinct qualities to withstand under extreme situations are one of the major drivers of growth on supply side. This might be due to high tech nature of technical textiles.
Textile Intelligence provides guidance for companies who are willing to enter in technical textile business. Companies looking to enter the technical textile sector must understand the key differences between technical textiles and the traditional industry in which they are used for operating. Technical textile needs state of the art knowledge for production and testing. Customers look for products with highly specific performance attributes and functions, and they are often willing to pay a premium for these features. In return, a manufacturer needs to use approved testing methods to convince customers and fulfil market requirements. There are three main areas must be considered for entering in technical textile: Clarity between technical textile and general textiles Knowledge about the requirements of customer and matching production facilities Testing facility to test the product to meet customer expectations and specifications There is a steady growth in the demand of technical textile and it will continue in future since there are many demand drivers, pushing the demand. For better results, it is recommended that traditional textile manufacturers should start from the simple products and then move to high tech products.
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China an Opportunity In the world of clothing there is fierce competition for import markets. This competition is part of export business in clothing. There are common markets providing maximum share of trade like USA and Europe. Therefore, fight remains constant for gaining share in existing markets. There are newly emerging markets of clothing which are also among the largest exporters. Like, China is a leading clothing exporter and not known as potential importing countries. Following data counter these assumptions and indicate a big change in future. China being an exporter would also emerge as significant importer of clothing. The rate of import in china is growing due to constant growth of economic developments. The import growth in exporting countries is highest and the fastest in China. The same growth is expected in future. The exporters of Pakistan need to see rising opportunity behind the wall at the moment. Following factors would lead rising import of China:
Growing demand for fashion clothing Growing demand for fashion clothing specialized in other part of the world
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Demand for brands produced in countries other than China Demand for technical clothing specialized by other countries Demand for hand-made clothing of other than China Internationalization for consumer choices and preferences
The rising opportunity for clothing import in China is a fact. Exporters of Pakistan can explore this niche and capitalize for make export
News of the Month 1. Textile expo in Africa The African Cotton and Textile Industries Federation, (ACTIF) is holding four-day event showcasing the best in Africa fashion, textiles, and accessories in Ethiopia.The main objective is to put Africa on the map as a preferred place to do business in the international textile and apparel industry. With thanks to; Ethiopian Business News 22 April 2012 2. Pakistan textile and clothing exports down 9.4% Pakistan's textile and clothing exports fell by 9.4% to US$9.02bn in the first nine months of the current fiscal year. According to the latest data released by the country's Federal Bureau of Statistics (FBS), the export value of cotton yarn dropped 26% to US$1.26bn, knitted garments fell 12% to US$1.47bn, and woven garments were down 2% to US$1.20bn. Textile and clothing sector, contributing more than 55% of the county's total export receipts. Falling textile exports therefore pose significant economic challenges to the government. With thanks to; Just Style 23 April 2012 3. Nike's Uniform Focus is on performance, not fashion Nike, the new maker of NFL uniforms, uses all of its high-tech research and development tools to make a better product for players. With thanks to; The Seattle Times 26 April 2012 4. US clothing designers seek to satisfy demand for American-made Clothing manufacturing is one of the largest industries in US region. More than 150,000 people work in one of the largest clothing manufacturing hubs in the United States. A report by the California Fashion Association says Chinese wages are rising due to a shrinking workforce caused by China’s "One Child" policy.Apparel workers are also going into other Chinese industries that offer better wages, hours and working conditions. If China gets too expensive, manufacturing, it will move to lower cost countries such as Bangladesh and Cambodia etc. With thanks to; Voice of America 26 April 2012 5. Marks & Spencer and Oxfam pushrecycling M&S is launching a fashion campaign in partnership with Oxfam that will encourage customers to recycle clothes in the hope of reducing the number of garments going to landfill. It aims to “lead the crowd in transforming the way we shop for clothes, creating a “buy and give back” culture where old clothes are seen as a valuable commodity rather than a throwaway item”. With thanks to; Marketing week 27 April 2012 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/seahawks/2018034624_uniforms21.html?prmid=head_main http://www.2merkato.com/201204221138/origin-africa-a-textile-expo-to-be-held-in-ethiopia http://www.just-style.com/news/textile-and-clothing-exports-down-94_id114135.aspx http://www.voanews.com/english/news/usa/US-Clothing-Designers-Seek-to-Satisfy-Demand-for-American-Made-148728605.html http://www.marketingweek.co.uk/news/ms-and-oxfam-push-clothes-recycling/4001356.article
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Contact:
Mohammad Ayub , Editor in Chief ,
+92-42-35830694
Rozeen Shaukat , research@irp.edu.pk , +92-42-35846988
Pakistan Hosiery Manufacturers & Exporters Association (North-Zone) 33-D, New Muslim Town, Lahore-Pakistan Tel:92-42-35830694, 35833868 Fax:92-42-35832213 E-Mail:phmalhr@gmail.com
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