WINE&SPIRIT
REVIEW
T H E S P EC I A LI ST WINE MAGAZ INE FOR INDUSTRY LEADERS
Issue No.9
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WINBIRRI VINEYARDS:
Growing Norfolk Vineyard Makes
World’s Best Wine
ALSO IN THIS ISSUE: Tiger Gin / Coates & Seely / Carr Taylor / Torview
PA R T N E R I N G W I T H SA B U S I N E S S T O K E E P WA L K I N G . JOHNNIEWALKERSOUTHAFRICA
EDITOR’S LETTER WINE&SPIRIT
REVIEW
T HE W INE S P E CIA LIS T MAGA Z INE FO R I NDU ST RY L EADERS
Karl Pietersen EDITOR Hal Hutchison SALES MANAGER Sam Hendricks SENIOR PROJECT MANAGER Shaun Cousins PROJECT MANAGER Shannon James PROJECT MANAGER Adam Dowson PROJECT MANAGER Emma Smith FINANCE MANAGER Harvey Tarlton SENIOR DESIGNER Joe Forshaw CONTRIBUTOR David Naiper CONTRIBUTOR Manelesi Dumasi CONTRIBUTOR
Published by CMB Multimedia Chris Bolderstone – General Manager E. chris@cmb-multimedia.com Sackville Place, 44-48 Magdalen Street, Norwich, NR3 1JU T. +44 (0) 20 8123 7859 E. info@cmb-multimedia.com www.cmb-multimedia.com CMB Multimedia does not accept responsibility for omissions or errors. The points of view expressed in articles by attributing writers and/ or in advertisements included in this magazine do not necessarily represent those of the publisher. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead is purely coincidental. Whilst every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained within this magazine, no legal responsibility will be accepted by the publishers for loss arising from use of information published. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or stored in a retrievable system or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written consent of the publisher. © CMB Multimedia Ltd 2017
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Although it has been a tough few months for the UK wine industry, with frosts in late-winter and early spring wreaking havoc across vineyards, the business remains on course to post yet another impressive year of development. In the past decade, UK wines – English sparkling in particular – have become known for quality and are now in many cases the first choice, even over Cava, Prosecco and Champagne. The number of acres planted with grapevines in England and Wales has grown by 135% in the last 10 years and demand for English bubbles comes from more than 30 countries around the world. And stills from England are also impressing with reports suggesting that the UK will see a record one million vines over the next 12 months, allowing growers to produce an extra two million bottles of wine a year. In this edition, our lead feature comes from Winbirri Vineyards in Norfolk where a young winemaker is intensely focussed on quality and as a result is producing wines of the highest order. We have to congratulate Winbirri Vineyards on winning the Gore-Brown Trophy from the UK Vineyards Association for ‘Wine of the Year 2016’. The 2015 Bacchus produced by Lee Dyer and team is simply sensational. He tells us more about how the business started, developments that are underway right now, and what plans he has for the future and developing the quickly growing reputation of wines produced in East Anglia. Be sure to look out for our Q3 edition, which is already well under way, as we’ll be looking at one of the world’s wine powerhouses, South Africa. we hear from one of the country’s most prominent businesses on exactly how hard it is to turn a wine business into a sustainable and profitable organisation. We’ve review Stellenbosch blends, Swartland single varieties, Franschhoek sparkling, and some remarkable Cabernet Sauvignon which we think is up there with the best in the business!
Karl Pietersen EDITOR
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WIN FRIENDS AND INFLUENCE PEOPLE
EDITOR’S LETTER
Timothy Reeder EDITOR tim@enterprise-africa.net Sophie Bolderstone SENIOR PROJECT MANAGER sophie@enterprise-africa.net Sam Hendricks SENIOR PROJECT MANAGER sam@enterprise-africa.net Karl Pietersen PROJECT MANAGER karl@enterprise-africa.net David Napier PROJECT MANAGER david@enterprise-africa.net Rose Whittaker PROJECT MANAGER rose@enterprise-africa.net John Mulley FINANCIAL DIRECTOR john@enterprise-africa.net Jane Larkman ACCOUNTS MANAGER jane@enterprise-africa.net Design by Naked Marketing +44 (0) 1953 850211 www.nakedmarketing.co.uk
Published by CMB Multimedia Chris Bolderstone – General Manager E. chris@enterprise-africa.net Sackville Place, 44-48 Magdalen Street, Norwich, NR3 1JU, T. +44 (0) 20 8123 7859 E. info@enterprise-africa.net www.enterprise-africa.net CMB Multimedia does not accept responsibility for omissions or errors. The points of view expressed in articles by attributing writers and/ or in advertisements included in this magazine do not necessarily represent those of the publisher. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead is purely coincidental. Whilst every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained within this magazine, no legal responsibility will be accepted by the publishers for loss arising from use of information published. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or stored in a retrievable system or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written consent of the publisher. © CMB Multimedia Ltd 2015
Welcome to our latest edition…
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This month has been fascinating viewing from a business perspective – troubles across the Eurozone persist which of course has a knock on effect when it comes to investment across countries in Africa. Combined with the landscape of the telecommunications industry in SA changing drastically, with Neotel being bought by Vodacom – who themselves have been partially purchased by the Public Investment Corporation, its been a struggle to keep up with the news! Speaking of acquisitions, this months lead article tells the story of Montigny Investments in Swaziland, who reflect on a year that saw the purchase of Sappi’s local business and impressive plans to turnover R1bn as a result. We also take a look at Shell South Africa and their plans to diversify now that the option of fracking appears to be ruled out, highlight the contribution of companies such as Afrisam and Isowall to the ongoing upturn in the construction market and help to mark the 40th anniversary of Botswana Insurance Company – all among other fascinating stories. As always, we thank you for taking the time to read our publication which we take great pride in putting together and bringing to you every month. If you would like to get in touch, feel free – we welcome your comment!
Timothy Reeder EDITOR
GET IN TOUCH +44 (0) 20 8123 7859 tim@enterprise-africa.net
www.enterprise-africa.net / Issue No.38 / 7
06/NEWS: The Month that was... A round up of some of the latest news stories from around the country
38/EXHIBITION CALENDAR: Key Upcoming Events Across the Country Our regular update to help you keep track of important events and exhibitions taking place across the spectrum of industry sectors
12/WINBIRRI VINEYARD: Villiera Sparkles on International Stage Villiera is a family run winery in the Stellenbosch region of South Africa. Managed since 1983 by the Grier family, the company is planning to release new products and expand its export offering. Head of Sales, Marketing and Export and third-generation family leader, Cathy Brewer tells us more‌
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CONTENTS
10/
22/
Wines of
Sparkling
30/
32/
Wine
Wine
34/
36/
RosĂŠ
Spirits
South Africa
White
Wine
Wine
Red
& Liqueurs www.wineandspiritreview.com / 9
NEWS IN BRIEF CHAMPAGNE POWERHOUSE TAITTINGER PLANTS FIRST UK VINES FOR ENGLISH SPARKLING WINE
In May, Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger held a ceremony at his new vineyard, Domaine Evremond, in Chilham village, Kent. The land has been purchased by Champagne Taittinger and partners with plans to grow Champagne grapes and build a thriving wine business on this side of the channel. At the ceremony, Taittinger broke ground on the new project and began planting Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier across the 69-hectare site. With the first wines set for release in 2023, initial progress surrounds the planting of 40 hectares in the next 24-36 months before any wine will be allowed to rest for at least three years. Pierre-Emmanuel said that he wanted to make a wine distinct from Champagne and build on the winetourism that has already been widely developed in the region. So far, the site has been cleared of mature fruit trees and has welcomed the plating of new Italian Alder trees to provide protection from the wind. This was followed by soil turning and removal of old apple and pear roots by hand. With confidence in the UK industry higher than ever, Taittinger has picked the perfect time to get involved as more are expected to follow very soon. The project is good news for the local community who expect jobs and wealth to be created in the region.
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SERIOUS FROST SEES BRITISH WINEMAKERS STUMBLE Estimates suggest that wine producers across the UK could face challenges in production after an April frost decimated vineyards, with as much as 80% of grapes lost in some cases. In some of the worst affected areas, vineyard managers lit fires between the vines in order to warm up the air but it was to no avail as vines were badly damaged. In their winter dormancy, vines are rugged and can survive the cold but by the time spring comes, and the vines are starting to bud, they are much more susceptible to low temperatures. In the UK, normally, the ground freezes and this lowers the temperature of the air above, but in April there was a different type of
frost caused by freezing air blowing in from the arctic. The effect on end-consumers will be felt in 2018 when the wines grown this year would have hit shelves. Single grape variety still wines will likely be more difficult to come by and this could affect relationships with retailers and producers with retailers looking for consistency in supply. However, it is hoped that this is just a minor hurdle in an otherwise blossoming time for the UK wine industry. Global warming has made spring frosts less common and the climate in England is now ideal for grape growing, remarkably similar to that of the Champagne region in the 20th century.
RELENTLESS FROST ALSO STRIKES BORDEAUX One of the world’s leading wine regions, Bordeaux - and especially its Right Bank – was another victim of severe late-spring frosts that have disrupted the industry across Western Europe in April and May. In the last few days of April, after the vines had started to develop, a bitter cold (as low as -3°C) descended over the region causing severe damage. Early estimates suggested that thousands of hectares of vines and agricultural crops in general in the area had been damaged, according to the local farming union, FDSEA which called a crisis meeting. Small scale producers were hit hardest and the majority of the businesses in the region fall into this category. Some of the major
estates were lucky enough to have advanced frost protection measures to call on, such as helicopters, sprinklers and heaters, but many are coming out of spring with little brightness. Many in the region compared the frost to the devastating freeze of 1991 and experts are concerned as the full extent of the damage is yet to be realised. Heaters, controlled fires, and any means necessary have been deployed by desperate farmers who look to save what they can. Frost has also caused problems in across many other vineyards in Europe, including in northern Italy, Switzerland, Germany, several areas of France and the UK.
NEWS ROUNDUP ITALIAN WINEMAKER TARGETS ‘VOLCANIC WINES’ FOR 2017
Volcanic wine is in the spotlight right now and vines that are situated in volcanic regions - specifically, on the slopes of volcanoes – are said to have a unique taste that is unlike any other. When volcanoes erupt, porous ash is laid and it mixes with rocks, creating a hospitable environment for plants to absorb water through their roots. The lava
flows fill the ashy soil with nutrients such as magnesium, calcium, sodium, iron, and potassium. All of this creates the perfect environment for grapes of considerable flavour. In Sicily, Angelo Gaja, former financier and winemaker for a decade, famed for his Piemontese wines, recently purchased a 21-hectare site on the slopes of Mount
Etna (a 50/50 joint venture with Graci) and he is preparing to harvest his first crop later this year. The majority of the site is planted to Nerello Mascalese and Gaja announced that he was ready to learn about volcanic growth without rushing things. If the venture proves successful, Gaja plans to build a winery and purchase further vineyards in the longer term.
US FIRM TARGETS NEW CONSUMER GROUP WITH AFFORDABLE WINE BRAND Leading US retail wholesaler, Sam’s Club (owned by Walmart), has launched a private label wine range. Initially introduced in 2016 with just a single style, the range has been expanded to try and reach out to higher-end demographic groups. Industry analysts have said the move is a clear reaction to the introduction of an own-wine brand (Kirkland) from Sam’s Club competitor, Costco. The range includes a Chardonnay, a Riesling, a Cabernet Sauvignon and a red blend. The reds were added this year and a sangria and a Prosecco are scheduled to be launched shortly. Available for between approximately $7.99 and $11 for 1.5 litres of the Mosel Riesling, the brand is available in 37 markets. The launch of the wine range comes as part of a renewal of the company’s ‘Member’s Mark’ line which includes everything from patio furniture to electronics. Although some analysts point out that Costco and Sam’s Club overlap very little, the company is still staunchly behind this new venture claiming that it is the perfect product for fine wine lovers and entry level drinkers. Market research suggests that many view Sam’s Club as a low-end supplier across all channels and therefore will fail to attract Costco buyers.
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REVIEW
WINE&SPIRIT BUYERS GUIDE
Old World Producer New World Feel
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Wine production in England goes back a long way. We think it was the Romans who bought wine to England, planting vines all over the country, with winemaking enduing through the time of the Normans and the English gaining such a taste for wine, they started importing it from France, eventually becoming the dominant consumer group. Wine production in England outlasted disease, taxation and international competition and by the time Henry VIII was crowned, there was said to be around 140 active vineyards with some dedicated to the Crown and some to the Church. Unfortunately, in 1860, the government cut the tax on imported wines and English product became uncompetitive. The industry dwindled and was struck with a knockout blow in 1914 with the development of World War One. Crops and food production quickly took priority and vines were replaced or ignored. Sugar was rationed and as a result, for the first time in 2000 years, no wine was produced in England. While minimal vine planting and wine production happened after World War Two, commercial production did return to England in 1952 when John Edginton experimented with commercial grape vines in Wiltshire. The next three decades saw vineyards pop up around the country but demand for English wine in the local market remained lacklustre compared to that of France, Italy or Spain. The country had more than 400 vineyards in the late 80s but this
figure dropped dramatically in the following years. However, since 2000 interest in planting vines in England developed significantly as researchers and optimists began to realise the soil type is remarkable similar to that of Champagne – especially in the South. Chalk hills, south facing slopes and dry summers are perfect for Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, the component grapes of Champagne. Improvements in technology and viticulture have catalysed the sparkling wine movement some industry commentators have called the development of the English sparkling industry a ‘seismic and radical boom for the global wine business’. Sparkling wine has become big business, with multimillion Pound investment and England currently produces some of the best sparkling wines on the planet, backed up by numerous international awards. In 2014, the industry was home to more than 500 commercial wineries and was producing more than two million bottles. In December 2016, England was exporting fizz to 27 countries and new export partnerships were inked in the US, Scandinavia and Asia. Annual sales are now reported to be more than £100m a year and the domestic market is taking note with powerhouse retailers Marks & Spencer and Waitrose doubling sales of home grown wines in 2015. The future looks bright for English wine, especially sparkling. Ironically, there’s one destructive megatrend which seems to be playing into the hands of English wine makers right now – global warming. As the temperatures
around the country have increased, the climate has stabilised and become perfect for certain varietals. Previously, England’s unpredictable climate had been a major drawback for the industry but now, with warmer summers, many experts are expecting the industry to boom. At the end of 2016, to cap an excellent year for England’s sparkling wine producers, Decanter magazine named two of five of it’s ‘best sparkling wines of 2016’ from England, beating off competition from powerful French and Italian producers, demonstrating just how far the industry has come. The upturn in the industry over the past decade has witnessed young winemakers, who bring experience from other countries and a passion for technology, driving business forward resulting in the saying that England is an ‘Old World producer with a New World feel’. England’s key wine producing regions include: • Kent • East Sussex • West Sussex • Surrey Popular grapes grown in England include: Seyval Blanc, Reichensteiner, Bacchus, Dornfelder, Rondo and, of course, the Champagne grapes, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. One of the last surviving truly English grapes is the Wrotham Pinot, a close clone of Pinot Noir and similar in appearance to Pinot Meunier, famed for its resistance to disease.
CONTRIBUTORS:
Karl Pietersen Hal Hutchison David Napier Chris Bolderstone Joe Forshaw
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C
WINBIRRI VINEYARD
Growing Norfolk Vineyard Makes
World’s Best Wine PRODUCTION: Karl Pietersen & Hal Hutchison
Winbirri Vineyard in Norfolk produces the UK’s Wine of the Year for 2016. The 2015 Bacchus has been lauded for its quality, and its purity and intense fruit flavour keeps people coming back for more. The name comes from the Anglo-Saxon, ‘win’ meaning wine and ‘birri’ meaning grape. We meet Winbirri’s head winemaker and owner, Lee Dyer to learn more about how a small Norfolk vineyard has grown to become one of the country’s best.
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Exclusive Feature
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Winbirri
Vineyard
WINBIRRI VINEYARD ENTRANCE GATE
On a damp, cold and grey winter morning, we arrived at the Winbirri Vineyard in the quaint Norfolk village of Surlingham, just seven miles outside of Norwich. We’d heard good things about this place; an awardwinning winery with a focus on quality, and a head wine maker who is meticulous about the small details. As we passed through the 10-foot black and gold gates, adorned with the vineyards ‘W’ signature, we could see work going on amongst the rows of vines. A quadbike moved along the nearest row and, as the vines sat in their winter dormancy, some of the wooden support posts were being pulled out and replaced with metal. The small planting surrounding the driveway is the starting point for this initiative, explains a well-togged vineyard employee. There’s two large steel structures in one corner of the site and we could see large crates, wrapped in black plastic, being moved in and out on forklift trucks. The vineyard is surrounded by green countryside; as far as the eye can see. It was quiet and the only noise was the occasional gun shot from a far-off farm. It was a particularly wet weekend and some parts of the approaching roads had been covered with large puddles and small streams where the rain drained from the fields. Surlingham is a small rural village, home to around 600 people and as you drive through, you’re more likely to see a pheasant than a person. As we stood admiring the idyllic surroundings, a truck approached
on the driveway. It was the man we’d been waiting for; Lee Dyer, owner and head winemaker. As he jumped from the truck he’s not what you’d expect; he doesn’t look like your typical rural Norfolk farmer, he’s young, he’s fashionable. The first thing he talks about is the new support posts. “We’re going to be replacing the posts across the entire vineyard, all 25 acres. They’re more reliable, they last as long as you need them and they aren’t effected by adverse weather conditions – it’s just better for the grapes.” Then he gives us a run down on the fundamentals of the business. “We’re a family run business producing around 50,000 bottles each year. We have a range of different wines, we’re becoming known for quality, we’re still a young business, and we’re supplying to a range of customers including supermarkets (Marks & Spencer and Waitrose), restaurants, individuals and boutique merchants.” After just a few minutes, we realised we had found a genuine ‘wine person’; someone who is hugely passionate about what he does, and backs up his passion with knowledge. Soon to be a Master of Pinot Noir, he talks with real confidence and he knows about every small detail; the number of bottles that went to each restaurant last year, the exact number of vines planted for each grape, the typical rainfall for the region for each month, the performance of other crops in the area; it’s refreshing to find someone who is so hands on
//YOU CAN GROW GOOD GRAPES BUT STILL END UP WITH BAD WINE BUT YOU CAN NEVER GROW BAD GRAPES AND END UP WITH GOOD WINE//
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Exclusive Feature
//I’M VERY PARTICULAR AND ALL THE WAY ALONG IT’S BEEN ‘DO IT RIGHT OR DON’T DO IT// and isn’t into wine as a by-product of arable farming. FRUITY HISTORY The roots of the winery go back 10 years. “2007 was the year the first hobby vines went in. We’ve only been operating as a business since 2012,” explains Dyer. His father, Stephen, planted vines as a fun experiment. Previously in the fruit industry in the region, Stephen had insight into growing crops but grape vines were more of a pastime. Lee had been travelling
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around the world, living in Australia and Thailand before returning to the UK and being tasked with caring for the vines. Having previously not been interested in wine in a big way, these vines tweaked something in Dyer and he quickly became increasingly involved, wanting to know more about whether this could be a commercially viable project. He enrolled on Oenology, Viticulture and Wine Skills courses at Plumpton College in the wine heartland of East Sussex before returning to run the business. One of his most closely-
held principles is that control over all aspects of the winemaking process must remain in-house to ensure quality. “It all starts with the grape,” he explains. “You can grow good grapes but still end up with bad wine but you can never grow bad grapes and end up with good wine. Everything we do here is to ensure that our grapes are the best that they possibly can be – that is vital.” As we walked towards the winemaking room, past some bare vines, he explained that along with the new trellis posts, Winbirri will also be investigating a new vine training method to assist with canopy management, pruning in a way that only allows the largest and strongest
Winbirri
Vineyard
canes to grow – another avenue explored in the pursuit of quality. Before entering the winemaking room, we look back across the site and in the distance we can just about see two further areas under vine through the naked tree line. “We planted our second site in 2010 and our biggest site in 2012,” says Dyer. “We now have almost 40,000 vines in total and there’s another 12,000 going in soon. The original 200 vines planted by my father have since been almost completely dug out to make way for the new driveway.” AWARD WINNING As we entered the vast all-white winemaking centre, we realised that this is the engine of the business. There were large pieces of silvercoloured machinery everywhere; huge tanks from Germany, a bottling machine from Italy, a de-stalking machine, and lots of other high-tech pieces of equipment. It looked more like a science lab than a Norfolk farm building. Dyer wasn’t lying when he said everything is managed in-house; there’s a machine for everything and he explains that although the room looks busy, the machines are designed to offer minimalist intervention, affecting nature as little as possible – reminding us once more that his grapes are of excellent quality and interfering with them only reduces quality. While only a small wine producer, Winbirri’s set-up is highly professional and above the winemaking room is a mezzanine floor where a tasting room overlooks the chemistry. Dyer led us to the bar and showed us the plethora of local and national awards that the company has collected in its relatively short life. A number of ‘East Anglian Wine of the Year’ certificates hang on the wall; a Norfolk Food & Drink award for Best Locally Made Product sits on a shelf; a number of trophies and shields are proudly displayed, and the most
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important for Dyer, the certificates from the United Kingdom Vineyards Association, are hung centrally one after the other, detailing the four trophies collected in August 2016. Winbirri’s 2015 Bacchus claimed the Gore-Browne Trophy for Wine of the Year, the Jack Ward Memorial Salver for Most outstanding large production wine from a 2015 vintage, the Tom Day Trophy for Most outstanding single varietal wine, and the Berwick Trophy for Most outstanding large production unchaptalised still wine. But casting a shadow over all of the above is the ‘big one’; an award from the 2017 Decanter World Wine Awards where Winbirri’s Bacchus was judged by a panel of international experts to be the world’s best white wine made from a single grape variety. Winning the platinum best in show award, beating entries from major international brands, and being highlighted among the total of 17,200 entries is a coup for not only Dyer and Winbirri but also for the entire UK wine industry. “Norfolk has so much potential as a wine region, particularly when it comes to still wines,” he says. “I think Bacchus has to be the jewel in the crown and, more importantly, for my site as it just works so well here. “Previously, the most outstanding wine in the UK for 2016 was the
biggest achievement we’ve had,” says Dyer. “Equally, I just was proud of the three back-to-back gold medals that we won. You could possibly win that trophy once by all variables falling into place for you and you get lucky. You can’t get lucky three years in a row and that’s why I’m proud because it shows consistency – there’s something that we’re doing that’s getting things right.” Gaining this level of success, and achieving these awards in such a short period time is unprecedented in the industry and demonstrates just how far the company has come in the past decade. Dyer is keen to enter more international competitions next year but he will be typically particular and selective about which competitions are suitable as his production will not be rushed. “A lot of the international competitions expect entries to be submitted in March but my wine isn’t ready until May/June. There’s no point entering the previous year’s wine and winning awards if you then have none left to sell. I enjoy the UK competitions because of the judging level. There’s always five Masters of Wine on the panel and that makes a real difference.” AMBITION Away from the hunt for trophies, Dyer hopes to increase the company’s land under vine. Demand for sparkling
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Exclusive Feature
(L) LEE DYER, WINBIRRI HEAD WINEMAKER AND OWNER (R) JOE FORSHAW, WINE & SPIRIT REVIEW CONTRIBUTOR
wine in the UK has never been stronger, there’s investment into the industry coming from all over the world, and recent research has suggested that English sparkling will soon become more popular and more widely sold than Spanish heavyweight, Cava. Winbirri’s sparkling is gaining popularity and, very aware of the global trend towards English sparkling, Dyer is keen to participate in this burgeoning market while driving interest and enjoyment in stills. He walked us from the wine tasting room, across the driveway and down a small country lane – barely big enough for a car - to the second site which is much larger and where we started to get an idea of the scale of the operation. “I always set ambitious targets; I wanted 200 vines and we achieved that, I wanted 1000 vines and we achieved that, I wanted 10 acres and we achieved that, I wanted 20 acres and we achieved that so the next vision is 50 acres. We have
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//ATTENTION TO DETAIL IS KEY IN THIS BUSINESS AND IT LEADS TO GOOD THINGS// managed to achieve things quicker than expected; if you’d asked me a few years ago about winning that trophy, I would’ve laughed at you but we did it.” He talks about how proud he is of the achievement of his Bacchus and explains that he sees it as the ‘Sauvignon Blanc of England’. “Bacchus is now our flagship wine and I think that in the long-term it will be the wine that people will know England for. When you think of New Zealand you think Sauvignon Blanc, when you think of South Africa you think Chenin Blanc, and I think in 10 years’ time people will think of England and think Bacchus. It is such a good wine that performs so well. If you look at the competition, three of the last five winners have been Bacchus although in the grand
scheme of things, the publicity here surrounds sparkling, which is still very very good, because it holds glamour and prestige. I’m confident because sparkling wine is a less common purchase and there’s a big difference in the potential market. Both still and sparkling wine have their place. A third of our vineyard is dedicated to sparkling production so I want sparkling to do well but I genuinely believe that Bacchus is something which needs to be concentrated on.” So how has this Norfolk vineyard managed to be so successful? What is it that separates it from the competition and allows it to win national awards, beating established vineyards that have received millions of Pounds of investment? Dyer puts it down to a big focus on small details,
Exclusive Feature
a commitment to the long-term vision, and a small amount of luck. “We’ve had a good journey, we have been lucky,” he says. “I’m very particular and all the way along it’s been ‘do it right or don’t do it’ so I haven’t allowed any complacency to enter and cause problems. Attention to detail is key in this business and it leads to good things. There has been a lot of stress with areas such as gaining planning permission and licensing – those things have been our real adversities.” We walked back to the main site and Dyer took us into the storage
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facility, purpose built to maintain a specific temperature, where many American oak barrels and floor-toceiling stacks of crates full of sparkling, hold the future of the business. The crates are wrapped in a black plastic specifically made for the industry to stop any sunlight getting to the bottles while they rest. The barrels are labelled; Dorn and Pinot amongst others. There’s cases and bottles around, labelled Seyval Blanc, Bacchus, Solaris, Pinot Noir and Signature, and there’s also children’s toys, reminding us that this is a family business. International Wine & Spirit Research
(IWSR) predicts that by 2018, the top still wine markets by value will be the U.S. and UK, worth USD $33 billion and USD $26 billion respectively. With this is mind, Dyer explains that the future is where his hard work will pay off. “We hope to create jobs for the local community, that’s an inevitable part of our growth. We have six members of the family involved right now and that is nice. I’m building a legacy; a vineyard isn’t a short-lived project. You work hard and don’t earn any money for a long time and you have to focus on the success of the project in 20 years’ time.”
Winbirri
Vineyard
Local news reports have also suggested that Winbirri’s 2017 turnover could reach as much as £300,000 if everything falls into place at the right time. With a strong local following, a positive relationship with national retailers, and award winning recognition that most could only dream of, Winbirri is helping to put East Anglian wine on the map. “All my wines have a time and a place,” says Dyer. “Bacchus is my favourite and I drink it in the evenings. In summer, I like the Solaris as it’s not so powerful in flavour, making it easier
drinking. I usually switch between red and white in April and October but Pinot Noir is a bridge wine. I can drink it just as well in the summer as I do in the winter. I really like our Signature at the moment. I’ve just returned from France and I’ve been tasting a lot of Bordeaux’s and when I came back and tried our Signature I thought it held its own.” As we left the Winbirri vineyard, the rain started to fall but we certainly weren’t feeling washed out. We felt lucky to have met Lee Dyer, we felt proud to have such a passionate winemaker and a solid business so close to us, and we felt
inspired as it is clear that Winbirri is only at the start of something special. From the mini Anglo-Saxon village of Surlingham, on the edge of the Norfolk Broads National Park, it’s clear that there is much more to come. WS
WINBIRRI VINEYARD +44 7595 894841 info@winbirri.com www.winbirri.com
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REVIEW
WINE&SPIRIT BUYERS GUIDE
Coates & Seely Brut Reserve NV The objective of the Coates and Seely wine business is simple: to create quality English sparkling wine that reflects the unique characteristics of English chalk terroir where the grapes are grown, and to stay true to traditional French winemaking principles, enhanced by modern technology. The idea for the business came about in 2007 when friends Christian Seely and Nicholas Coates decided to create an English sparkling wine, made from Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay grapes grown in Hampshire, England. After establishing plans for a vineyard in a Hampshire valley of outstanding natural beauty, the pair planted a southfacing chalk slope before expanding by partnering with a neighbour, Daphne Cunningham, and committing to create nothing but quality. In 2009, Coates and Seely had 30 acres under vine and the pair refurbished an old tasting building while stocking the site with the highest quality
wine making technology from France. The result is three wines of the finest quality: The Brut Reserve NV, the Blanc de Blancs NV and the Rosé NV – all three a combination and celebration of England and France. The Brut Reserve NV is a classic English sparkling. Made from 65% Chardonnay and 35% Pinot Noir, the nose is bold, giving citrus fruitiness. The mouth also offers citrus flavours, particularly lemon, orange and grapefruit. There’s also some marmalade notes but everything is perfectly balanced. There’s a dryness which helps the balance, and evidence of this wine’s quality comes in the form of a Gold Medal award from the 2016 Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships and 92 points in Decanter magazine. The finish is smooth and leaves you with pale lemon. There is potential for improvement in the bottle but it’s extremely good right now. We can’t recommend highly enough.
Upperton Nebula 2013 The Upperton Vineyard is situated in the South Downs, an area some call the home of English Sparkling wine, and since the first vines were planted in 2005 by Andy Rogers, the business has become a family concern. With 32,000 vines planted across 40 acres, Rogers has welcomed the involvement of his son James and daughters Heidi and Sarah. Originally, Upperton was planted with a small amount of Pinot Noir Précoce and Chardonnay but, in 2006, the potential for sparkling was realised and mass planting of Champagne grapes was undertaken, followed by further planting in 2008 and 2010.
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The vineyard has four main products, three sparkling whites and a sparkling rosé. The Upperton Nebula 2013 (26% Chardonnay, 58% Pinot Noir, 16% Pinot Meunier) is named after the imposing mist that hangs over the region before harvest on autumn mornings. Its colour is light golden with flashes of pink, thanks to the heavy contribution from Pinot Noir. Its soft and smooth and doesn’t sting. The flavours are subtly sweet with honey and treacle, and an apple finish for sharpness. It’s brilliantly refreshing and is an exceptional example of what English vineyards are now capable of.
English Sparkling Wine
Coates & Seely Rosé NV We had extremely high expectations for the Brut Rosé NV after reading very positive reviews from highly esteemed critics, and after tasting the class act that is the Brut Reserve NV. The clear, pale pastel pink is beautiful and exciting. The nose is fragrant and there’s aromas of strawberries and raspberries, making this a great choice for those looking for something slightly sweeter and softer than the Brut Reserve but while softer it’s not lacking in structure; the acidity and fruitiness leaves a great impression all around the mouth. The pungency of this wine along with its stellar taste is down to the French techniques that Coates & Seely are committed to. “As the fruit is picked, it is placed by hand into our specially
sourced cagettes. The open sides of these cagettes allow for air circulation while their small size prevents the grapes from being crushed under their own weight.” Attention to detail is something which sets Coates & Seely apart – their fastidious approach to winemaking shows in the Brut Rosé. The business is founded on a respect for nature and by ensuring grapes arrive at the winery in the best possible condition, the winemakers are adhering to those principles set out by the founders. This is a wine for all; it’s perfect for connoisseurs but also for those who are less experienced. It’s leagues ahead of the majority of similarly priced Australian or American offerings and could easily mix it with most French products, even some of the higher priced bottles.
Castle Brook Classic Cuvée 2010 Situated in the West Country, close to the Welsh border, the Castle Brook Vineyard produces some of the highest quality English grapes in the industry. The Wye Valley in South Herefordshire is known for first-class production of fruit and vegetables and the proprietors of the vineyard, the Chinn family, are known for growing fantastic asparagus. In 2004, knowing that their land had huge potential, the Chinn family planted vines of the Champagne grapes and produced their first vintage in 2006 to much acclaim. Grape growing and farming at the vineyard is handled by the Chinn family and a partnership has been created with Ridgeview Estate for assistance with wine production. This combination of a fine grape grower and an established, quality
wine maker results in a wonderful product. The Castle Book Classic Cuvée 2010 is a yellow-gold colour and gold is something which has become regularly associated with this wine, winning a gold medal in the Champagne and Sparkling Wine World Championships and a number of other prestigious competitions. Of the UK sparkling wines featured in this edition, this holds the closest resemblance to a Champagne, thanks to the traditional production methods used in its development. It’s smooth and delicate, and offers light lemon and orange flavours, finishing with subtle cinnamon and nut. If you’re toasting a celebration and looking for a UK wine, there’s no doubt that Castle Book Classic Cuvée is what you need.
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WINE&SPIRIT BUYERS GUIDE
Tuffon Hall Classic Cuvée 2014
Jenkyn Place Brut Cuvée 2010
Halfpenny Green Vineyards Brut
Tuffon Hall Vineyards, located in Essex, is another contributor to the growing reputation of East Anglian wines. The vines are planted in farmland around the village of Castle Hedingham and are managed by Angus Crowther, a sixth-generation arable farmer. The land here has traditionally been used for the growth of hops for making beer or whisky but over the years, has been used to grow potatoes, barley and milling wheat. Angus Crowther, fourth generation family farmer, planted vines on the site in 2011 and has been producing award-winning ever since. The Tuffon Hall Classic Cuvee 2014 is an English sparkling with all the characteristics of a classic. Its beautiful golden colour shines and its scent of honey excites the taste buds. It’s very well balanced and the sweetness is complemented by notes of citrus, particularly orange, and green apple. It’s very fresh and very crisp, and perfectly smooth. If you’re looking for a summer time party drink, you’ve found it with this.
Jenkyn Place in Hampshire is the home of Simon and Rebecca Bladon. The Grade II listed house from the 17th century is around 15 miles west of Guildford and the Bladons moved in in 1997. After restoring the house and surrounding lands, Simon Bladon turned his attention to the adjacent hop fields and planted his first vines in 2004. Further vines followed in 2007 and 2010 and now Jenkyn Place has 15,000 vines across 12 acres all dedicated to the traditional Champagne grapes. The focus from Jenkyn Place is production of traditional and rosé English sparkling wines and quality is more important than quantity. The Jenkyn Place Brut Cuvée 2010 is a fine example of a distinctly English sparkling. It’s clear, light, silvery colour is attractive, and its fruity nose is less yeasty than Champagne. It offers green apple and tropical fruits on the palate, finishing with sherbet. The flavours are reminiscent of both Champagne and Prosecco and this is what gives the wine its uniqueness. It’s elegantly smooth and luxurious. The business is welldesigned, well-managed and wellmarketed, and like the wine, this will be one to watch.
Halfpenny Green Vineyard’s Brut is a bright and exciting tone of yellow, almost fluorescent it thrills the eyes before it gets close to the lips. At Halfpenny Green Vineyards, close to Wolverhampton, farmer and vineyard owner, Martin Vickers has planted an impressive 30 acres and he works the land along with his family. The vineyard is one of the largest plantations in the country and the adjacent modern winery produces around 50,000 bottles of own-label each year with spare capacity to produce for other vineyards from around the country. Martin’s son Clive manages the vineyard and winery and the south facing slopes that are wellsheltered and covered in light, sandy free-draining soil make for ideal growing conditions. The Brut, made from Seyval Blanc, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, has an apple and peach nose and a dry but sweet flavour. The finish has a creamy nuttiness. Martin Vickers set out to create a vineyard comparable to continental competitors and that vision is now becoming a reality.
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English Sparkling Wine
Albury Estate Classic Cuvée 2013 All wines from the Albury Estate in the Surrey Hills are organic. The company is unwaveringly committed to fruit production using 100% organic methods – that means no herbicides and fungicides or chemicals of any kind. One of the values running throughout the business is that improving the biology of the soil will result in the development of fantastic natural biology, brilliant produce and eventually brilliant wine. The Albury vineyard is owned by Nick Wenman and released its first wine in 2015. The vines are split between the Champagne varietals of Chardonnay,
Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, and bolstered by some Seyval and Pinot Gris. The grapes make up a high-quality product portfolio including a still rosé and a collection of sparkling wines. The 2013 Classic Cuvée has an International Organic Wine award, and has been recognised by Decanter and IWC for quality. Its powerful citrus flavours are boosted by a lively acidity and combined they make for a very refreshing wine. The finish is long and gives a pleasant sweetness. This is the perfect sparkling wine for any celebration and offers significant levels of class for its price point.
Carr Taylor Brut 2016 One of the most historic vineyards in the UK, Carr Taylor has been in the wine industry since 1971. Run by owners Robert and Linda Carr-Taylor alongside son and winemaker, Alex, their name has become synonymous with high-quality wine and winemaking techniques. The vineyards 37 acres cover a picturesque pocket of East Sussex, close to the famous historic town of Hastings, on England’s southeast coast. Over the years, Carr Taylor has claimed more than 130 awards for its produce and often beats of competition from France with its excellent sparkling wines. The Carr Taylor Brut is a fantastic example of why English sparkling wine is some of the most desirable in the world right now; it’s easy drinking, it’s refreshing, it’s extremely flavoursome, and it’s glamorous. With many UK winemakers opting
for the traditional Champagne grapes for their sparkling products, Carr Taylor goes for a blend of Reichensteiner and Schonburger. Citrus, apple and elderflower flavours give a sharpness and shortbread flavours bring softness for balance. The freshness and the fruity flavours make for an extremely pleasant experience and we would have to list this Brut among our top recommendations from the UK sparkling market right now.
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Exton Park Brut Reserve NV Exton Park Vineyard, overlooking Exton village in the Meon valley of the South Downs, was planted in 2003. Initially, just 12 acres were laid down and early experimentation proved successful with obvious beneficial characteristics present in the land. In 2009, Malcolm Isaac purchased the vineyard, having operated a successful salad a cress operation on neighbouring farms. He understood the terroir and set about further planting. While bringing the vineyard to maturation, he supplied mainly to the nearby Coates & Seely operation – an indicator of excellence if there ever was one! Today, Exton Park Vineyard focusses on sparkling white and rosé, and the focus and attention to detail that goes into grape growing is extreme. Everything is done by hand and monitoring
of buds and vines is meticulous. Control over the grass and weeds on the land is also scrupulous so that vines are afforded optimum growing conditions. This painstaking attention to detail is evidenced in the quality that ends up in the bottle. The vineyard has chalky characteristics, just like Champagne, and this is apparent in the wine. Made from 60% Blanc de Pinot Noir and 40% of Chardonnay wines, this sparkler presents a clear, pale green colour and a nose of flowers and fruit. It has a strong citrus flavour with powerful lemon and lime notes and it has the yeasty, bready, doughy features of a good Cava. It’s dry and earthy and boasts a beautiful long finish. This wine has also been awarded medals by Decanter and IWSC, backing up its credentials as one of the best.
//THE FOCUS AND ATTENTION TO DETAIL THAT GOES INTO GRAPE GROWING IS EXTREME//
Thinking of trying Exton Park? An elegant expression of Exton Park’s unique chalky terroir. Made from a blend of 60% Blanc de Pinot Noir and 40% of Chardonnay wines from several years, this is a refreshing wine that can not only be served as an aperitif but also matched to salmon, white meat, and even a raspberry cake. £27.95 per single bottle, plus £7.50 post and packing per order. Free postage & packing on a case of six (this can be mixed).
www.extonparkvineyard.com
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English Sparkling Wine
Bosue Quality Sparkling Wine 2014 ‘Cornish wines from Cornish vines’ is what you’ll get from Bosue Vineyard just south of St Austell on Cornwall’s south coast. With a slightly more mild climate than the northern parts of the country, Cornwall boasts a brilliant environment for winemaking, and with a long and deep history of agriculture, there is a skill base to tap into to ensure high quality grape growth. The area has been farmed for hundreds of years and owners Paul and Liz Sibley are now taking advantage of the fertile land, growing Rondo, Regent, Solaris, Phoenix and Orion grapes. Fantastic conditions in 2014 saw a record breaking crop harvested at Bosue Vineyard and the resulting sparkling wine, made from Orion and Johanniter, is the proof that hard work is worthwhile. It’s a pale green colour and has apple of the nose. The flavour profile has elderflower and similar floral notes and the lingering finish gives a buttery creaminess. It’s very delicate, very fresh and wellbalanced. Certainly the star of Cornwall’s sparkling.
Herbert Hall Traditional Method Brut 2014 Just 10-miles south of Maidstone, the Marden Vineyard sits in the fertile Weald of Kent. Planted in 2007, this vineyard is the home of the Herbert Hall Traditional Method Brut, one of the UK’s finest sparkling wines. It’s champagne in all but name, made using the traditional grapes and the traditional secondary fermentation in bottle method. The vineyard is warm, and is sheltered by old hedgerows. The tough soil and the sunshine across the slopes make for small grapes with intense flavours. All organic
and all hand crafted, the philosophy of the business is very much about minimal intervention, allowing the quality of the fruit to shine through. The Herbert Hall Traditional Method Brut is a clear pale yellow colour, the nose is floral and gives hints of vanilla. There’s a sweetness and a buttery flavour with the biscuit finish that you would expect. It’s easy drinking, not acidic and very smooth. It’s a class act and reflects the attention to detail that proprietor Nick Hall puts into the minimalist intervention approach.
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English Sparkling Wine
Hambledon Classic Cuvée Rosé Hambledon, England’s oldest commercial vineyard, has a reputation for quality and that reputation is upheld through its Classic Cuvée Rosé – a truly outstanding example of sparkling rosé. The colour is a pale pink with a red hue, and it presents wild strawberry and forest fruits on the nose. There’s further fruitiness on the palate with definite lemon and a continuation of the strawberry. The finish has hints of creaminess combined with a clean, earthiness. The Hambledon Classic Cuvée
Rosé is made with a non-vintage blend of 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir. Most of the grapes are from the Hambledon Estate in Hampshire and are selected for quality. The vineyards of Hambledon are located in the prolific South Downs which is now widely recognised in the industry for its chalky geological conditions which match those of Champagne. Managing Director of Hambledon, Ian Kellet, has said that he is “delighted” with this wine and is proud that the company has managed to “showcase the quality
of the Chardonnay from our South east-facing chalky slopes.” The Hambledon vineyard was originally established by Major General Sir Guy Salisbury-Jones in 1952. Hambledon wines have been enjoyed all over the world and the estate boasts a strong relationship with Champagne producer, Pol Roger. Hambledon has undergone a multi-million pound redevelopment with the goal of producing the best possible multi-vintage English sparkling wines and is now home to is the only fully gravity fed winery in the UK.
Davenport Limney Rose Sparkling 2014 Situated just south of Royal Tunbridge Wells, in the High Weald Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, is Davenpor t Vineyards. This is the business responsible for the Limney 2010 Sparkling which received a 92-point rating from Decanter in 2015, hence our excitement when we received the 2014 Limney Rose Sparkling which also comes highly recommended. Davenport has five grape growing sites and the Chardonnay (60%) and Pinot Noir (40%) used in the Limney Rose Sparkling 2014 are all homegrown on site. The vineyards are completely organic and a lot of focus is given
to any method that encourages a thriving natural environment for the vines. This sparkling rosé is a pale pink/apricot colour. There are floral notes on the nose, along with some plum. The palate has a background of citrus and a hint of rose water atop a berry base. It’s very smooth but very full and displays an elegant balance that is rarely achieved from a debut variety. Interestingly, this wine achieved a bronze medal in the 2016 UK Vineyards Association Wine of the Year Competition and Davenport Vineyards are delighted about this considering this is their first sparkling rosé.
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Humbleyard Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Lyme Bay Chardonnay 2015
Giffords Hall Bacchus 2014
While the world has taking notice of English wine as a serious player over the past decade, the south coast has been the main beneficiary of the development of the industry. But now the search for prime growing territory is widening and many prospectors are looking to East Anglia, a region steeped in farming tradition, for new opportunities. A small group of winemakers have already realised the vast potential of East Anglian land and are producing wines of the highest quality with local and national demand on the rise. The Humbleyard Vineyard, in the Norfolk countryside just outside Norwich, has been producing from its eight-acre site since 2010. Inspired by wines that owner Robert Preston and family enjoy drinking, Humbleyard has opted for production of white, rosé and sparkling varieties. The south facing slopes are warm and well-drained and have proved successful for the growth of soft fruit over the past three decades. The Sauvignon Blanc from Humbleyard is beautifully crisp and clean. Its fruitiness comes in the form of peach and passionfruit notes which are complemented by a sweet honey flavour. It’s earthy, surprising and exciting and, as one of not many Sauvignon Blancs to be produced in the UK, it’s a must try for any white-lover.
Originally founded in 2008, Lyme Bay Winery found its first site and planted its first vines in 2010. Four years later, the company celebrated the release of a range of fantastic wines from its 26,000 vines. Located in Devon’s Axe Valley, between Weymouth and Exmouth, the vineyard enjoys a prime location, where grapes are allowed a little extra time to develop deep flavour and character, thanks to the long and warm spring/ summer. Alongside its first-class wine offering, Lyme Bay also produces cider, mead and liqueurs, and names some of the UK’s most talented industry specialists among its staff. For us, the highlight of Lyme Bay’s impressive offering is the Chardonnay. Awarded a Silver medal at the UKVA Wine of the Year Competition, this Chardonnay is quickly gaining a big fanbase. Its nose is oaky and the palate is sweet, creamy and buttery with a peachy fruitiness. The feel is smooth, balanced and well-rounded and you can really feel the skill of the winemaker. Easily one of the finest UK Chardonnays we’ve tried and an excellent example of UK winemaking ability which would match up to most international competitors in its price range.
One of our ‘recommended’ wines, the 2014 Bacchus from Giffords Hall Vineyard is a delight for the senses. It has a very pale green colouring and brings a floral smell, with strong notes of elderflower and gooseberry. The taste is sweet and we found notes of honey, treacle and syrup, combined with fruity aromatic flavours that create a perfect balance. It’s a superb example of what is possible in East Anglia and a brilliant advert for Bacchus. Giffords Hall Vineyard is found in Suffolk, close to the historic market town of Bury St Edmunds. The land has sandy/clay soil and the vines of Madeleine Angevine, Bacchus, Reichensteiner, Rondo, Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc were planted around 25 years ago. This Bacchus has claimed local and national awards and thanks to its easy-drinking style, we predict it will become a favourite.
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White
Wine
Winbirri Vineyards Bacchus 2015 As we learned earlier, East Anglian wines are quickly gaining a positive following and one of those riding this wave is Norfolk producer, Winbirri Vineyards. Run by owner and head winemaker, Lee Dyer, Winbirri is a multiaward winning vineyard producing first class white, red, rosé and sparkling wines. Located close to the fine city of Norwich, Winbirri enjoys fantastic conditions and terroir, and has been commended by Becky Hull MW who said: “Winbirri make some stunning wines… the purity and intensity of fruit flavour of the 2015 Bacchus has captivated all of the judges at the English & Welsh Wine of the Year Competition.” Dyer takes a minimalist intervention approach to winemaking and lets the quality of the fruit shine through in his wines. Read through most reviews and you’ll see the words ‘stunning’, ‘superb’ and ‘perfect’. The 2015 Bacchus easily ranks among our top recommendations. It has a clear white and golden yellow colour and the nose has subtle fruits – gooseberry and passionfruit. The flavours don’t take time to develop on the palate; straight away you’re happy. The tropical fruitiness is a delight and it quickly grows to a sweetness that most winemakers find hard to capture. Honey, butter, and a soft creaminess make the balance with the aromatics perfect. If this wine was made in France, there would be a serious price tag to go with it. In 2016, Winbirri’s Bacchus won four
major trophies at the UKVA English & Welsh Wine of the Year Competition, including the prestigious Gore-Browne Trophy for Wine of the Year. You can now find Winbirri wine in Waitrose, Marks & Spencer, Lea & Sandeman and many more local retailers, farm shops and restaurants. How does Lee Dyer make such high-quality wine? He is tirelessly focussed on quality in the vineyard, painstakingly monitoring everything and working with his family to manage all details by hand. “Without high quality grapes, you can’t have quality wine. After you pick the grapes, you can only bring the quality down, and that is why we try and interfere as little as possible,” he tells us. Next year, the Bacchus will enter international competitions and measure itself against some of the best in the world. Right now, this is quite simply one of the best around and will likely encourage many more English vineyards to consider Bacchus. Hats off to Lee and his team - as close to perfection as we have found.
Thinking of buying Winbirri? £13.49 per single bottle. £80.94 per case
www.winbirri.com
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Red
Wine
Sharpham Pinot Noir & Précoce 2013 Down on Devon’s south coast, not far from Plymouth, is the Sharpham Vineyard, a sizeable and highly respected farming operation that produces great wines and also cheese. The area has been farmed for hundreds of years and today, the vineyard is home to multiple varieties under the care of Head Winemaker Duncan Schwab, Managing Director Mark Sharman and Vineyard Manager Peter Sudworth. A multi-award winning business, you know you can always
expect class and quality from Sharpham and the 2013 Pinot Noir & Précoce does not disappoint. To start with you get floral notes on the nose and then a smoky, savoury spiciness. On the palate you get plum at first, sweeter strawberry on the mid, followed by a long raspberry finish. There’s medium tannins but overall, it’s quite light. A long history of winemaking and farming, and brilliant growing conditions make Sharpham a prominent player in the UK wine industry and this beautiful red is proof.
Editor’s Note //RED WINES WILL PLAY A HUGE PART IN THE UK INDUSTRY, ESPECIALLY PINOT NOIR//
Torview Rondo 2014 The 2014 Rondo from Torview Wines is special. It’s exciting, unusual, unique and intriguing. It’s special because it’s not trying to be something else or copy another style. It has its own characteristics which stem from its positioning in Devon on a clay bed on south facing hills. Initially, we found the Rondo to be light and soft, despite a deep, dark crimson red colour. There’s cranberry and forest fruits on the palate with a sweetness which gives it that exciting edge. The finish is long, and we realise
it’s more full bodied than we originally thought. Award-wise, the 2014 Rondo has claimed a Bronze Award at the SWVA Competition 2015 and 2016. Torview is a family-run vineyard and winery and the people behind the business, Tim and Cat Gowan have extensive experience growing in the English climate and working in New Zealand, Australia, USA and around the world. This Rondo could just as easily be enjoyed in the summer as by the fire in winter and would suit lamb dishes.
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Rosé
Wine
Blackdown Ridge Eosina 2014 Professor Martin Cook is the brain behind the development of a vineyard high in the South Downs National Park. The first vines were planted in 2010 and first wine made in 2013. Inspiration for planting the vineyard came when an Italian winemaker and friend of Professor Cook’s visited his home from and looked over the slopes with extreme
optimism commenting on the vast potential of the land for grape production. Today, the company can produce 14,000 bottles and includes red, white, rosé and sparkling in its stable. New Zealander, Josh Hammond is the winemaker and brings international experience to the Blackdown Ridge Estate in the
Sussex Weald. The 2014 Eosinia is a rosé of Rondo and Bacchus with a deep but bright ruby pink colour. The nose has raspberry and the palate follows with red fruits, particularly strawberry. It’s medium-bodied and has a dryness which makes for a refreshing mouth. Could be enjoyed all year round and would suit a Californian-style salad.
Pant Du Gwin Rosé 2015 As one of the top producers in Wales, Pant Du is an exciting and increasingly recognised brand in the UK wine industry. The business began in 2003 when Richard and Iola Huws bought the farm in the village of Penygroes. In 2007, the vineyard was established and the first wine was produced in 2010. Today, Pant Du is an important member of the local community and enjoys thriving business through the sale of wine, cider, apple juice, and spring water. The location of the farm is vital to the growth of impressive grapes. Nestled on the slopes of the glacial Nantlle Valley, at the foot of Snowdon, Pant Du boasts fertile land, ideal for production of grapes such as Rondo and Bacchus. Since producing its first wines, Pant Du has claimed a number of national awards for quality. The Pant Du Gwin Rosé 2015 is a light pink/red colour with a hint of orange. It’s made from Rondo and has a sweet and fruity nose. The palate brings strawberry and raspberry and the finish has elements of white flavour such as elderflower. It’s unique and enjoyable – most definitely should be on your list to try.
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WINE&SPIRIT BUYERS GUIDE
Tiger Premium Gin No 1 Gin is perhaps the drink of the moment, with sales in 2016 exceeding the 40 million bottles mark (more than £1.1bn). And this success looks set to continue with industry researchers suggesting that gin is one of the fastest growing export products in the UK, with demand outstripping that of British beef and soft drinks. It’s because drinking habits and fashions have changed and, especially in the US which has the biggest thirst for UK gin, people are demanding premium high-end products that are tasty and have an air of exclusivity. Hence the boom in the number of gin distillers in the UK, with more than 100 starting up in the last two years. One of the newcomers to the industry is Tiger Gin, the brainchild of JJ Lawrence. Founded in 2016, the goal of Tiger Gin is simple, to bring you the highest quality, best tasting gin, through the use of fine ingredients and master distilling expertise. And it looks like this goal has been achieved as the Tiger Premium Gin No 1 is a real blockbuster. Made up of a fairly traditional set of ingredients (juniper berries, citrus peels, liquorice roots, coriander seeds etc etc), Tiger Gin has a remarkably silky smooth taste. It has an earthy, stony scent but the flavours are different, floral and sweet. Obviously, the juniper shines through, alongside
a strong lime element. There’s none of that nonsensical burn that you get with mass produced mega brands, there’s no challenge to finish, it’s just pleasure from start to end. Importantly, it’s key to remember that this is only the first offering from JJ Lawrence and so we can expect the Tiger Brand to get stronger, with new ideas and new flavours bolstering the strong reputation that Tiger already holds. On founding the business, JJ Lawrence found himself quickly embroiled in a legal battle with Heineken over the Tiger name which they claimed was too similar to their Tiger Beer brand but perseverance prevailed and Tiger Gin won the fight. The next step for this exciting and beautifully crafted gin is surely to differentiate itself in the market from the hundreds of boutique gin producers who are vying for growing but limited market shares. If you’re into gin, if you like a Londonstyle, if you prefer clean and crisp to dry and metallic, and if you prefer to know that your gin has been handcrafted by a master using the finest ingredients available, then Tiger Gin is an obvious choice.
Thinking of trying Tiger Gin? £37.95 per single bottle (70cl)
www.tigergin.co.uk
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Spirits
& Liqueurs
Flaskers Brandy Hole You don’t find a huge number of English vineyards making brandy, despite the success of the drink. It’s a huge ingredient in cocktails, it’s big in cooking and many people are now drinking it in bars on its own – apparently there’s a view that it’s healthier than other alternatives. Yet, there’s only a handful of successful producers in England. But it’s ok, Clayhill Vineyard in Essex is now producing an excellent brandy, Flaskers ‘Brandy Hole’, made from four base wines of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, which are distilled locally before being aged in oak for a year. As a top producer of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Auxerrois, this vineyard is no stranger to
developing quality and being innovative. The brandy has a ripe orange scent, along with stewed fruit. The taste and flavours are exciting, there’s black treacle, dark syrup, caramel and a fruitiness which includes apple, apricot and cherry. It’s certainly powerful, and it has an earthy-feel. Who would’ve thought you’d get such quality from Essex? Clayhill Vineyard is located close to the city of Chelmsford and is the product of much hard work by Dale and Vicky Symons. With this initial adventure into brandy our first taste into their offerings, we can only say that we are hoping to come across more Clayhill product very soon!
Williams GB Extra Dry Gin The Chase distillery business, located in Hampshire, is run by entrepreneur William Chase, a potato farmer who grew frustrated with growing potatoes for the supermarkets under ever-increasing price pressure. To make use of his quality potatoes, he started the Tyrrells crisps business before eventually founding the distillery after a trip to the USA where he witnessed vodka being made from potatoes. In 2008, William Chase produced his first vodka and Chase Vodka is now big business but after brining an industry-favourite vodka to life, attention quickly turned to gin. William’s Gin has come in a number of styles and tastes but perhaps the crowning achievement of the business comes in the form of Williams GB Extra Dry Gin.
The nose has citrus, particularly orange and mandarin. The palate is extra fruity, driven by the quality juniper berries. It has a full mouth feel and the citrus notes bring an excellent finish. There’s a spiciness, perhaps from the addition of cinnamon to the mix, and this complements the heavy juniper flavour really well. It certainly is enjoyable on its own but is also perhaps one of the best partners to all of the boutique tonics that have emerged following the boom in gin sales. It’s also great as a cocktail ingredient, particularly in a gin Manhattan. Very smooth, perfectly balanced, and a multi-award winner – this is a great example of a British gin that will excel in all markets.
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EXHIBITION CALENDAR
KEY UPCOMING EVENTS ACROSS THE COUNTRY Our regular update to help you keep track of important events and exhibitions taking place across the spectrum of industry sectors. THE 37TH LONDON WINE FAIR MAY 22 | LONDON A truly international event, the London Wine Fair offers over 10,000 wines produced in over 40 countries worldwide. 15,000 wine professionals will journey to London to be immersed in the world of wine, to sample across the continents and take part in the tastings & masterclasses. VINEXPO BORDEAUX 2017 JUN 18 | BORDEAUX “Taking part in Vinexpo, is to be in the right place at the right time. The show is a catalyst for international business with 48,500 trade visitors from 151 countries at the Bordeaux show. “On the exhibitor front, the number
and diversity of nationalities confirm the show’s planetary reach, its key role as a meeting place for the sector, and its leadership. “We are convinced that Vinexpo will bring the answers to the questions you are asking yourself, and help you to build a successful future for your business.” VINEXPO’s team DECANTER WORLD WINE AWARDS TRADE TASTING 2017 JUL 03 | LONDON Taste winners from the 2017 Decanter World Wine Awards – the world’s largest and most influential wine competition. Places are strictly reserved for wine trade and wine press only and registration required.
THE 37TH LONDON WINE FAIR Kensington Olympia, London MAY 22 – 24 DECANTER’S GREAT SPARKLING Exploration Trade Tasting 2017 Jun 08 CHURCH HOUSE, LONDON New Zealand Boutique Wine Festival 2017 Imperial Building, Auckland Jun 11 VINEXPO BORDEAUX 2017 City-Wide, Bordeaux Jun 18 - 21 DECANTER WORLD WINE AWARDS TRADE TASTING 2017 Vintners’ Hall, London Jul 03 WORLD WINE MEETING SAN FRANCISCO 2017 The Park Central, San Francisco Jul 19 – 21
Wine & Spirit Review Reccomended Q2 2016 •
Tiger Premium Gin No 1
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Winbirri Vineyards Bacchus 2015
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Giffords Hall Bacchus 2014
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Carr Taylor Brut 2016
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