Tailored. Sophisticated. Smart. A guide to modern fine tailoring threads, interlinings & zips
Index 1
Thread Solutions.................03
2
Interlinings..........................11
3
Zip Expertise.......................15
Thread
Producing modern fine tailored garments such as formal suits places a high degree of technical demand on the manufacturer’s skills. This level of technical demand is also extended to the components used to manufacture these high quality garments. Sewing thread plays an integral role in the engineering of seams in fine tailored garments, and this can have a major impact on such garments. Our company features a diverse range of sewing threads, designed to meet and exceed the challenges that fine tailoring poses.
Coats Epic Supermax A corespun polyester needle thread that combines a high tenacity filament core with a polyester fibre wrap Special core-spinning technology, producing threads of high lustre and low surface hairiness, which enhances seam appearance Lower controlled elongation in the finer sizes helps combat seam puckering Allows the use of finer thread sizes which gives better seam appearance without compromising seam strength cone put up
cop put-up
5000m
Strength cN 780
Elongation % Min - Max 14 - 23
Needle Size Metric 65 - 75
150
5000m
980
14 - 23
24
120
5000m
1190
14 - 23
2594 070
40
70
5000m
2160
2594 050
60
50
5000m
3330
2595 030
105
30
3000m
4800
Art / Tkt
Tex
Ticket
Length
2594 180*
18
180
2594 150
21
2594 120
Art / Tkt
Length
-
-
65 - 75
2592 150
10 x 1000m
70 - 90
2592 120
10 x 1000m
16 - 26
90 - 110
2592 070
10 x 1000m
16 - 26
100 - 120
2503 050
10 x 500m
16 - 26
110 - 130
2554 030
10 x 300m
*use 2525 for 2500m in tkt 180
Coats Gral A continuous filament polyester sewing thread is developed in two sizes for fine tailoring Ticket 180 offers high tenacity and excellent sewing performance required for fine seams Ticket 300 is ideal for serging, seaming, blindstitch, and felling operations
630
Elongation % Min - Max 17 - 21
Needle Size Metric 55 - 70
920
17 - 21
65 - 75
Art / Tkt
Tex
Ticket
Length
Strength Cn
1345 300
10
300
5000m
1345 180
14
180
5000m
Coats Eloflex Coats Eloflex is an innovative performance stretch sewing thread for high extension, stretch seams Eloflex minimises the risk of seam extension failure on stretch fabrics and enables high stretch lockstitch seams Eloflex is available in a full range of thread sizes for all stretch fabric and stretch materials. Ticket 120 is perfect for the use in modern tailoring Art / Tkt Vicone
Cone
0323 120
N/A
Tex
Ticket
Length
Strength Cn
Elongation % Min - Max
27
120
3000m
900
50 - 70
Coats Gramax A polyester continuous filament textured thread Offers a soft feel, good seam coverage and low pressing impression, making it ideal for serging and overlocking the closely woven lightweight fabrics used in modern tailoring
Art / Tkt Vicone
Cone
5744 220 5743 160
N/A 5643 160
Tex
Ticket
Length
Strength Cn
Elongation % Min - Max
10 18
220 160
10000m 5000m
380 620
18 - 30 20 - 32
Coats Hemseal Coats Hemseal is a fusible low-melt thread that creates a reliably secure hem Delivers additional security to the blind stitched hem Helps to eliminate a major cause of customer complaint Reduces repairs and the cost of returns No investment in new machinery
Art / Tkt
Tex
Ticket
Length
Strength Cn
FH01 020
135
20
1000m
2400
Elongation % Min - Max 17 - 20
Coats Secura Coats Secura is a fusible polyester / polyester corespun, selflocking thread offering an enhanced button security in the garments Enhances button security and increases button pull-through strength Improves customer satisfaction and reduces costly product returns A perfect sewing thread for bead and sequin attachment
1190
Elongation % Min - Max 17 - 22
Needle Size Metric 75 - 90
1960
18 - 24
90 - 110
Art / Tkt
Tex
Ticket
Length
Strength Cn
9003 120
24
120
5000m
9003 075
40
75
2000m
Interlinings
Coats and Permess have partnered to provide a comprehensive co-branded variety of interlinings to the garment industry. The sales, distribution and technical service capability we possess in markets across the world is the perfect match to the interlinings manufacturing spread, expertise and technology Permess offers. Together, we will be able to offer added value to the garment industry through: •
Consistent quality across the globe
•
Quick technical support and sampling
•
Fast and reliable lead-times based on local stocks at Coats’ locations
•
Competitive pricing
Coats Permess Coats Permess offers a comprehensive range of services which help brands, retailers and manufacturers improve product quality, optimise cost and productivity, ensure compliance and increase speed to market. With a worldwide services team of technical experts, Coats Permess can support you wherever you are and whatever the issue. Please get in touch with us to experience the value we can add to your business. • Testing of outer fabric • Washing and dry-cleaning tests • Fusing tests and recommendations • Inspection of fused products (bond strength, shrinkage, etc.) • Sampling • Product development
Canvas and felts Various canvases and felts suitable for chest piece, sleeve head rolls and chest piece cover We can offer washable canvas, canvas from wrapped horse hair and lighter weight canvas from horse tail hair Type Canvas Felt
Substrates Blended haircloth Polyester
Weight (g/m2) 175 - 345 80 - 100
Knitted and woven fusible A range of knitted and woven interlinings with different characteristics and features like mono stretch, double stretch, multidirectional stretch, thermo bonded Type Circular knit fusible Knitted fusible Woven fusible
Substrates Polyester Polyester Polyester
Weight (g/m2) 35 - 57 42 - 46 30 - 90
Nonwoven fusible A variety of nonwoven interlinings for small parts of suits, including double side adhesive, thermo bonded, stitch reinforced Type Nonwoven fusible Web
Substrates Polyester/polyamide Polyamide
Innovative tape for perfect fit of any blazer, trouser or suit. With a simple ironing, the lapel, armhole, back shoulder or hem will stay in excellent shape
Article PQ49LEX
Width 6 mm 12 mm 20 mm
Feature Single and double stitch
Weight (g/m2) 30 - 42 24 - 30
Zips
Under the Opti brand, we offer a wide variety of zip fasteners for clothing, footwear and accessories manufacturers. Our products feature a diverse array of end uses. The Opti range is backed by our unrivalled zip manufacture technology, designed to give our customers a product they can trust every time. Our Opti LUX brand of zips are specially designed to cater to the needs of high quality leather goods brands.
Coats Opti S Regular This ground breaking ‘S’ technology for spiral zips manufacturing was invented and patented for the Opti Group High quality fibres are interwoven whilst inserting the spiral by using only one weaving operation. This allows for a smaller slider because the slider lies flat on the textile tape and increases the zip’s strength S stands for Spiral, Strength, Slender, Sliding and Superiority Zip type/size S40 (#3)
Teeth size 4mm
Teeth material Polyester coil
Tape width 12mm
Tape material Polyester yarns
Function Closed end (CE)
Tape option Reversed
Coats Opti S Pant Opti S pants is the ideal option when using continuous chains on rolls in regular garment production The polyamide spiral is the best option because it features high elasticity, which is needed to make the two top ends of a zip even
It is recommended for men’s trousers Zip type/size
Teeth size
Teeth material
Tape width
Tape material
Function
S40 (#3)
4mm
Polyamide (nylon) coil
12mm
Polyester yarns
Closed end (CE)
Coats Opti S Regular Reversed Opti S Reversed zips have an attractive flat appearance, which is created by the spiral not being visible on the front of the zip This neatly incorporates the zips as part of the garment, creating smart and appealing clothing It is recommended for trousers and skirts
Zip type/size
Teeth size
Teeth material
Tape width
S40 (#3)
4mm
Polyamide coil
12mm
Tape material
Function
Polyester yarns Closed end (CE)
Tape option Reversered
Coats Opti S Invisible Opti S Invisible zips have an automatic slider with a drop puller and ultrasonic welded top and bottom stop The range contains zips with woven or knitted polyester textile tape, depending on the application as well as different sizes for light or heavier garments It is recommended for ladies trousers, skirts and dresses
Zip type/size
Teeth size
Teeth material
Tape width
Tape material
Function
S40 (#2) S40 (#2) S40 (#4) S40 (#5)
4mm 4mm 5mm 6mm
Polyester coil Polyester coil Polyester coil Polyester coil
12mm 12mm 11mm 12mm
Polyester knitted Polyester woven Polyester woven Polyester woven
Closed end (CE) Closed end (CE) Closed end (CE) Closed end (CE)
Suitable fabric weight <100g/m2 <140g/m2 <140-220g/m2 >220g/m2
Coats Opti LUX Regular These luxury zips were specifically created for high-end goods featuring individually polished teeth, smooth slider running and a wide range of finishes Opti LUX zips offer a superior aesthetic effect by comparison to normal metal. Soft polyester yarns undergo special treatment to deliver tape with a supple cotton-like feel Although the manufacturing process for LUX zips is longer and more complex than traditional metal zip products, this guarantees a zip with no edges, smooth slider running and extensive options for galvanic shades It is recommended for ladies trousers, skirts and dresses Zip type/size LuX4 (#3) LuX4 (#5) LuX4 (#8)
Teeth size 4mm 6mm 8mm
Teeth material Brass Brass Brass
Tape width 12mm 15mm 17mm
Tape material Polyester yarns (SSP) Polyester yarns (SSP) Polyester yarns (SSP)
Function Closed end (CE), Open end (OE, Two-way open end (2WOE)
Coats Opti LUX siMMis Opti LUX siMMis features individually polished teeth with symmetrical shape Like all Opti LUX zips, siMMis offers smooth slider running, a wide range of finishes and a superior aesthetic effect by comparison to normal metal It is recommended for all apparel types, functional and feature zips applications
Zip type/size
Teeth size
Teeth material
Tape width
Tape material
Function
LuX6 (#5)
6mm
Brass
15mm
Polyester yarns (SSP)
Closed end (CE), Open end (OE, Two-way open end (2WOE)
Coats Corporate Responsibility As the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest sewing thread manufacturer, we are committed to minimising our environmental footprint across our supply chain. Steps we have taken include using more biodegradable products, consuming less energy, and lowering CO2 emissions.
Precise Colour Matching For over 40 years, our industry expertise has ensured precision, accuracy and speed in every colour matching process â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from design to development to the finished product.
Coats Technical Services With a proven ability to help you create exciting new products and innovative technical solutions, our global team of experts are always available to provide guidance and support.
Ready to take your brand to the next level of sophistication? Contact us to learn more about our modern fine tailoring collection. Send us an email at marketing@coats.com.
MFT 2018
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