Planting roots

The “accidental farmers” Ester and Joel Bishop with children Gabi and Zach.

Planting roots

By Sebastian Clarkin

As tourists and locals alike marvel at fall foliage, the gazes at Gnarly Vines Farm on 241 Cornell Road in Tiverton remain fixed on the ground. There, the “accidental farmers” Ester and Joel Bishop (and their children, Gabi and Zach) tend to a collection of turkeys, chickens, goats, rabbits, pigs, and more.

Together, the Bishops have found astonishing success by raising their animals in an ethical and sustainable manner. They began their journey four years ago. Today, they supply “beyond organic” meats to restaurants across the South Coast.

Originally from São Paulo, Brazil, Ester moved with her husband from Boston to the South Coast after falling in love with the region’s coastal charms. Their new property was a former tomato farm, perfect for supporting the couple’s new hobby: raising chickens.

Fortunately for them, they had a knack for it. Before too long, the Bishops had more eggs than they knew what to do with. They began selling the surplus, and learning about how to expand the farm in a healthy and sustainable way.

To give a sense of how successful this expansion has been, the farm’s chicken population has ballooned from the original 20 to over 3000.

While her husband has kept his IT job, Ester has been able to commit herself to the farm full-time. She prides herself on providing her animals with joyful, stressfree lives. “People should know where their food comes from – you can really taste the difference,” said Bishop.

Green acres

Bishop’s commitment to “beyond organic” farming extends beyond cuddles and words of affirmation to her livestock. She ensures all the animals are provided with healthy, organic meals, and that their waste is repurposed as manure.

“You can see how green the grass is where the turkeys have been,” Bishop says. “That’s because they fertilize the soil with their manure. Manure is the basis of organic fertilizers. There are no chemicals added, or needed, when the animals do their job.”

Speaking of animals doing their jobs, Bishop has conscripted her goats and pigs into clearing away swaths of underbrush on the property – the “gnarly vines” that give the farm its name.

Gnarly Vines coordinates with neighboring farms to provide its customers with a variety of sustainable and organic products. Angus beef, for instance, will sell out almost as soon as it comes into stock.

But the farm is not bound by terrestrial limitations: the Bishops have partnered with Captain’s Finest and Sakonnet Lobster to bring fresh seafood to market.

Bishop is particularly proud of a new initiative at the farm: food security community supported agriculture (CSA) plans. CSAs, popular among farms nationwide, allow customers to pre-purchase “shares” of the farm’s produce, which are guaranteed and made regularly available week after week.

The plan is a win-win for farmers and consumers. Consumers are assured to receive fresh produce, while the farmers can rely on a stream of income to continue to grow and cultivate their operations. “No shortages here if we plan ahead!” says Bishop.

All products can be ordered online directly from the farm’s website, gnarlyvinesfarm.com.

Growing connections

The Bishops’ rapid assimilation into the South Coast is best shown through their recent project with the Coggeshall Farm Museum in Bristol. When the farm learned of the Bishops’ efforts in sustainable agriculture, they invited them to their grounds at Colt State Park, where a new barn is being constructed.

Due to the construction, Coggeshall Farm’s 48 acres were lain fallow. They offered the land to the Bishops.

Now, Bishop splits her time between the Tiverton farm and the Bristol location, where she is using pigs to reclaim overgrown land and birds to rejuvenate the pastures. Back at home, she is focusing on raising turkeys in time for Thanksgiving. The fowl thoroughly enjoy living in pasture and freely gambol under the open sky (except for when Bishop is shielding them from predatory birds).

As much as the Bishops pride themselves on farming naturally, there are harsh realities that come with shirking modern shortcuts.

For one thing, Bishop has largely managed the labor-intensive operation of Gnarly Vines by herself, and is always looking for ways to increase her efficiency.

But even old-fashioned sensibilities can leave open space for forward thinking. The farm is collaborating with robotics students at Johnson & Wales University in order to develop automated solutions to help small farms.

“It can’t totally be the old way,” Bishop says. “It has to be different. We must use technology, but we cannot sacrifice quality!”

That difference is apparent from the first bite.