Tokyo Coffee Trail by Coffee Lovers

TOKYO COFFEE TRAIL

CONTENTS

MARUYAMA COFFEE

SARUTAHIKO STREAMER COFFEE COFFEE

COMPANY

TOKYO COFFEE TRAIL

FUGLEN TOKYO

LATTEST OMOTESANDO ESPRESSO BAR

IDENTITY COFFEEBAR + GALLERY

CONTENTS

OMOTESANDO BE A GOOD KOFFEE NEIGHBOR

COFFEE KIOSK

4 CAFE LEGS #3

TOKYO COFFEE TRAIL

HONEY COFFEE 15351

THE MOCHA COFFEESHOP COFFEE

CONTENTS

BEAR POND ESPRESSO

LITTLE BALLON NAP D’ESSAI COFFEESTAND

TOKYO COFFEE TRAIL

NOZY COFFEE

CAFE OBSCURA

AMAMERIA ESPRESSO

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SONIA &

FROM MELVIN

In early 2011, we ‘met’ through the Popular page on Instagram. Soon, we were ‘following’ each other . ‘Likes’ and ‘Comments’ led to messages on WhatsApp and chats on Talkbox. Before we knew it, we had fallen head first into a long distance relationship. Many have said that most long distance relationships cannot last long enough to ring the wedding bells. But we will persevere. Because coffee drinkers make better lovers.

very time we see each other, it is like seeing each other for the first time. We spend hours sharing our pasts, hopes, and dreams, over cups of coffee. Gone are the days when you bemoan the lack of good coffee in Tokyo to stave off searing caffeine pangs. Specialty coffee joints are spawning across the metropolis constantly, and this book can only serve as a general guide. We went on a Tokyo Coffee Trail, and embarked on a journey of serendipity across 18 coffee joints. Join us while we luxuriate in caffeine debauchery, and of course, love, as we explore Tokyo’s burgeoning specialty coffee scene. Follow us on a storied journey as we share about coffee, love, life, and everything in between.

www.CoffeeDrinkersMakeBetterLovers.wordpress.com

All information is correct at the time of writing, but is subject to change without notice.

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MARUYAMA COFFEE #01

MARUYAMA COFFEE started in 1990 as a roaster/retailer ; now a highly successful bidder for top lots at Cup of Excellence (COE) auctions, they offer the world‘s best coffee to discerning customers in Japan. Besides their flagship store in Karuizawa, the greatly anticipated Tokyo shop opened in October 2012 at Oyamadai. We trudged our way there, along the icy sidewalk on a frosty morning, yearning for warm comfort from coffee.

s they prepared our orders, one of the baristas served sample cups of a natural Panama Geisha (not on the menu at that time). It was a clean and well-balanced cup, with abundant floral notes and hints of spice. We were relishing the Geisha’s lingering finish when our orders came in BODUM French presses: Sonia ordered Panama Elida Geisha, and I wanted to try Costa Rica Zamora COE Number 1. Elida Estate is one of the two highest coffee farms in Panama; varietals grown are mainly Catuai and Bourbon, with Geisha planted in recent years. With rich volcanic soil, mild temperature, and high altitude, Elida Estate has been consistently producing one of the highest rated natural processed coffees in the past years. MARUYAMA COFFEE‘s washed Panama Elida Geisha was well-balanced, with a light body and delicate acidity; we tasted lemon zest followed by an intense jasmine aroma. The finish was long and smooth, with a clear mandarin note. Costa Rica Zamora COE Number 1 (2012), on the other hand, was a delightful orchestra of tropical fruits, sparkling with crisp citrus and berry notes. It had a deeply complex aftertaste, finishing in a silky, sweet dark honey. Impressed, we bought beans from Brazil Santa Inez for some home brew action. As a gesture of appreciation, we were offered two complimentary cups of coffee to go. This is my third visit to Tokyo in less than two years, and I am still impressed

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MARUYAMA COFFEE

by the impeccable service. Loitering along rows of French presses and other coffee paraphernalia on display, we indulged in our second serving of the day.

Speaking of inspiration, we ought to share more about the founder Kentaro Maruyama. MARUYAMA COFFEE began as a small roaster in Japan. Together with some other micro-roasters in Japan, they formed a mailing list group called “Mikatajuku”. Loose“ ly translated, Mikatajuku “a free school of Mikatajuku means “a means coffee supporters”.

Four trophies won by their baristas caught our attention: one of them, Miki Suzuki, is the 2010, 2011 Japanese Barista Champion. She scored an impresfree school of coffee sive 5th placing in the 2011 Back then, information supporters”. World Barista Championabout specialty coffee was ship and came in 4th the scarce; their voracious hun” following year. Miki Suzuki ger for knowledge drove is one of the few women them to organise regular who bucks convention in a male-dominated sharing sessions. Many of them travelled coffee industry, serving as a powerful inspi- from different parts of Japan to gather at a ration to aspiring female baristas in Asia. shop, cupped together and shared ideas.

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Some of them attended a Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) event in Miami, and found themselves on a cruise boat party mingling with famous coffee producers like Mr.Trygve of Solberg & Hansen. Maruyama mulled over what he had learnt during the event. He felt the disparity betwen them and world-class pioneers of specialty coffee was too stark. They might be a small roaster, but Maruyama would not let anything stop them from forging to the frontiers of specialty coffee. He racked his brain, thinking of ways to work towards the cutting edge of coffee industry. Maruyama believed that — to become true blue specialty roasters — they should build direct, long-term relationships with the coffee producers. He thought the COE could serve as a program that bridged specialty coffee producers and roasters. Economically, it made more sense too: as a micro-roastery, they could not afford to purchase entire shipping containers of coffee. The COE lots were smaller in quantity and were within their handling capability. With this in mind, they decided to pool all their resources into COE as a group, so that they could enjoy the economies of scale. MARUYAMA COFFEE‘s first successful COE lot was Danilandia from Guantemala. Maruyama could still remember how

touched he was while roasting the first batch. Unbelievably excited that they had actually won a lot from COE, the effervescence soon spilled over to customers. 2002 turned out to be a pivotal year. MARUYAMA COFFEE won the Number 1 lot Agua Limpa from the Brazil COE at a record price. Their customers were blown away by the great coffee and the rest, as they say, is history. On the way back, I pondered over Maruyama’s story while watching the drab jungle flashed by in an endless streak. Maruyama had emphasised how they started as a small roastery: “Because specialty always start from small; we can grow together.” MARUYAMA COFFEE is a classic case of fledgling startups forming a collective, sharing an ideology, and working towards a common goal. Working together opens up strategic opportunities that would have been unobtainable otherwise. I have a feeling Maruyama’s story will provide food for thought in time to come. Meanwhile, our Tokyo Coffee Trail has just begun.

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SARUTAHIKO COFFEE #02

SARUTAHIKO COFFEE is named after a powerful guardian deity of the Japanese Shinto religion. Despite what the name suggests, the coffee shop is far from a gaudy Kissaten (Japanese-style coffee house). Bathing in the warm glow of lighting from steampunk copper fixtures, the cosy little shop is an eclectic stash of tarnished weighing scales and quirky babyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s milk bottles filled with coffee beans.

wner Tomoyuki Ootsuka is a young man with a burning desire to share the enjoyment of specialty coffee. He started SARUTAHIKO COFFEE in June 2012 offering hand drip coffee only. Now he serves espresso drinks as well, with beans from Nozy Coffee and Cafetenango. Apparently, their Honey Latte is also a hit with the ladies. The affable, fresh-faced baristas were cheery despite being busy with orders. They even squeezed in time for friendly chatter with customers who were there for takeaways, before scurrying back to work. Bustling with unbridled enthusiasm, SARUTAHIKO COFFEE is popular with young people in the area. I felt as if I was on the set of an idol drama, with a coffee shop setting as we waited for our orders. In between sips of my hand drip Guatemala La Soledad, I spotted a familiar face on the cover of a book. It was the book COFFEE WITH TIM WENDELBOE. On the flyleaf was a hand scrawled note commending SARUTAHIKO for serving good coffee, signed off by Tim Wendelboe. It is no mean feat for such a young coffee shop to be recognised by the winner of 2004 World Barista Championship and 2005 World Cup Tasters Championship. Do swing by the lively coffee shop to gratify your craving for good coffee, when you are in the Ebisu area. Anyway, the coffee geeks in us were so excited by the book that we almost for-

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SARUTAHIKO COFFEE

got to take down taste notes; my coffee had notes of dark chocolate, with hints of nuts and tones of sweet berries in its finishing. The Perez family has been running the Finca La Soledad coffee farm since 1895, with great dedication in progressive farming practices to achieve the finest cup quality. Raul Rodas of Guatemala, had used coffee from Finca La Soledad when he took first place in the 2012 World Barista Championship. We spent half an hour delving into Tim Wendelboe’s coffee book together, oblivious to the hustle and bustle around us. Reading together allows us to tune into each other’s

experiences, thoughts, and feelings. In the process of discussing the finer points of coffee brewing, we understand each other better. Come to think of it, what we read does not really matter, so long as we are together.

“ What we read does not matter, so long as we are together. ”

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STREAMER COFEEE COMPANY #03

Do not be surprised if STREAMER COFFEE COMPANY evokes a familiar feeling. Hidden along alleys of Shibuya, the coffee shop is spacious with a lofty ceiling, long communal tables, and grey concrete walls, much like coffee joints from the West Coast. There are comfortable cushion seats on one side of the shop for you to plop into, before slurping your coffee. On the other side is an area conducive for working alone: a few bar stools were placed along a long table with ample power sockets, providing just the right amount of privacy for you to type away on your laptop.

iroshi Sawada was not around when we were there, but the décor of his shop gave us a clue about his interests. STREAMER COFFEE COMPANY oozes strong street culture vibes, from the camouflage patterned espresso machine to customised grinder emblazoned with stickers, and barista clad in SUPREME beanie. The art and design magazines adorning the wall are part of an inaugural café/ magazine installation THE U CAFÉ X STREAMER held in multiple cafés (STREAMER COFFEE HARAJUKU, STREAMER COFFEE SHIBUYA, and LATTEST OMOTESANDO Espresso Bar). A collaboration between Underscore and Hiroshi Sawada, it brings together independent cafés and magazines to encourage readership within the café community. A wall mounted art piece featuring the swirls of Hiroshi’s signature triple rosetta latte art across four skateboards, added a finishing touch. The counter is designed in such a way that you can witness the entire spectacle of swirling frothed milk into art, using nothing more than a pitcher. Hiroshi Sawada is 2008 Free Pour Latte Art Champion, the first Asian to win the accolade with a record breaking high score. It comes as no surprise that latte art is glorified at STREAMER COFFEE COMPANY. Here, latte art is a well-choreographed sleight of hand where you walk away with a

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STREAMER COFFEE COMPANY

delicious cup of coffee with a rosetta, served in a bowl sized STREAMER mug. Beyond just showcasing mercurial artistry, latte art requires a perfectly extracted shot of espresso and advanced milk steaming technique. Beautiful latte art is therefore, said to be an indication of tasty coffee made with quality espresso and properly steamed milk.

hints of citrus complementing the delicate acidity. The STREAMER Blend is roasted on a 40 year old Probat in small batches, and delivered everyday to ensure premium quality; they are available for purchase along with other STREAMER branded merchandise like T-shirts and mugs near the counter.

“ If only this moment lasts forever. ”

The STREAMER Latte we ordered did not let us down: it was silky and syrupy with

We also spotted Hiroshi’s book

In both Japanese and English, the book is packed with great tips for espresso extraction, milk preparation, and drawing latte art.

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We left STREAMER COFFEE COMPANY and headed for our next stop, FUGLEN TOKYO. As we held hands and skipped over the icy sludge, I remembered a saying: “Holding hands is a promise to one another that, for just a moment, the two of us do not have to face the world alone.” If only this moment lasts forever.

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FUGLEN TOKYO #04

FUGLEN (The Bird) is a café, vintage showroom, and cocktail bar from Oslo, Norway. Heralded as one of the best retail concepts in the world by über-style bible, Monocle, FUGLEN has opened their first outpost in Tokyo. Having served coffee since 1963, the original FUGLEN had two neighbouring rooms painstaking restored by one of Norway’s experts on mid-century design, Peppe Trulsen. Bearing the patina of time, FUGLEN has been declared as a cultural heritage site, preserving a valuable example of Japanese influence, towards the end wave of Scandinavian Design in 1950 and 60s.

he Bird landed in Tokyo on May 2012, and coffee lovers have been flocking to it. (You saw the pun coming, didn’t you?). Nestled along streets of Tomigaya, the tranquil ambience of FUGLEN TOKYO is a stark contrast to the psychedelic madness of Harajuku. Trulsen’s curatorial selection of lush wood, retro colours, and midcentury Norwegian design had been completely transplanted here: we felt like we had stepped into a Scandinavian family’s heirloom home. During the day, FUGLEN TOKYO serves specialty coffee that spoils you for choice: espresso-based drinks, Kalita drip, and AeroPress coffee made with beans flown in from the best roasteries in Oslo – Solberg & Hansen, Kaffa, Tim Wendelboe, and Supreme Roastworks. As the baristas were in the thick of action, our eyes darted across the quirky treasures. While most items in a vintage shop are for display only, FUGLEN TOKYO doubles as a ‘living’ showroom. Everything here is for sale, from the chair you are sitting to the lamp on the wall. The carefully selected objects are staged (and used) as in real life, making it easy for you to visualise how it would fit your home. I ordered Tim Wendelboe’s Colombia Finca Tamana made with the AeroPress. Tim Wendelboe started working with Elias Roa in early 2012 to produce Finca Tama-

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FUGLEN TOKYO

na. It was their biggest project with a single farmer, and the progress made in the 4 days when they were there in June 2012, was remarkable. The result was a very juicy cup with snappy acidity: we tasted bright citrus flavours of mandarin orange as well as berries with sweet lingering finish of caramel. The nostalgic ardour emanating from the vintage pastiche dilated time, cajoling us to savour every sip of coffee.

came across the book Coffee With Tim Wendelboe again. This time, Tim proudly signed off with a congratulatory message for a fellow compatriot’s Tokyo venture.

In a few hours, FUGLEN TOKYO would transform “ into a cocktail bar serving The polychromatic traditional cocktails as well cacophony welcoming as unorthodox concoctions conjured by Linie Award us was oddly 2011 Champion Bartender Halvor Digernes, and his endearing. protégé Yumi Sato. Before ” leaving, we spoke to the affable barista who was keen We lounged around in the lazy afternoon, to enlighten us about AeroPress techniques. leafing through Monocle magazine, and

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While we were reluctant to leave the nostalgic enclave, the polychromatic cacophony welcoming us was oddly endearing. A palpable air of excitement pulsated, as we wondered what else await in our quest for great coffee.

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LATTEST OMOTESANDO ESPRESSO BAR #05

You will be struck by a strong sense of déjà vu, even before stepping into LATTEST OMOTESANDO Espresso Bar, located in Ura-Omotesando. The latte art signage outside bears a striking resemblance to STREAMER COFFEE COMPANY. In fact, LATTEST OMOTESANDO Espresso Bar is planned and executed with Hiroshi Sawada’s consultancy. This explains why the place is embellished with Sawada’s industrial chic style, from concrete finishing to wooden furniture with industrial metal accents.

efore you think it is just a twin of STREAMER COFFEE COMPANY, this is where the similarities end: STREAMER COFFEE COMPANY screams cool street hype, LATTEST OMOTESANDO Espresso Bar is a laudation of wholesome girl power. Ran by a girls-only crew of baristas, LATTEST OMOTESANDO Espresso Bar is a refreshing change in a male-dominated industry. Needless to say, the bevy of barista beauties is immensely popular with male customers. We observed at least 3 customers who drank their coffee standing at the counter, chatting up baristas despite plenty of seats available. Shizuka Nakayama and Asami Ito have been spearheading operations for the past year, after completing rigorous training under Sawada’s close supervision. Beyond just having killer looks, they can whip up potent drinks like LATTEST and Triple Shot Latte. Available only in-shop, LATTEST is made by adding espresso shot to cold milk; Sawada jokingly used ramen as a metaphor to describe how espresso floated on top of milk like oil atop soup. We gave the Triple Shot Latte a miss, as we would be heading for more coffee at identity COFFEEBAR + GALLERY later. Our LATTEST was served in a small Espresso Parts glass, and we could see dark swirls of espresso emulsifying with the pale

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LATTEST OMOTESANDO ESPRESSO BAR

milk gradually. My girlfriend took a sip and nodded her head in relish: the espresso’s richness complemented milky sweetness wonderfully. The warm, dense espresso juxtaposed with cold, light milk to create a highly textured sensation. Subsequently, the taste and texture became more subdued as the espresso ‘wore’ out.

initial delightful sensation throughout a large glass, and you would find the drink becoming bland. Hats off to Hiroshi Sawada and team for the meticulous planning.

“ We finally understand why LATTEST is unavailable for take-out. ”

We finally understand why LATTEST is unavailable for take-out and come in such small serving. A take-out would inevitably end up as a flat, murky mix; it is hard to sustain the

LATTEST OMOTESANDO Espresso Bar is active in collaborative events such as regular Run & Yoga sessions. You can try out New Balance shoes for a run and unwind with yoga at the shop after that.

The spacious interior is designed to accommodate pop-up stores and art exhibitions; the long, unusually high table makes an excellent centerpiece dis-

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play for merchandise and artworks. All it takes is a good DJ and you can throw a fine party here. Girls just want to have fun and when they do, so will the boys.

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IDENTITY COFFEEBAR+GALLERY #06

Intelligentsia Coffee is one of the Big Three of Third Wave Coffee, together with Stumptown Coffee Roasters and Counter Culture Coffee. As one of the pioneers of direct trade, they are on a constant pursuit for truly exceptional coffees, and work closely with farmers. Around since 1995, Intelligentsia now has 7 bars – 4 in Chicago, 3 in Los Angeles and a “lab” in New York. identity COFFEEBAR + GALLERY is the first in Japan to carry Intelligentsia’s branding, serving a wide range of single origin hand drip coffee, and espresso drinks with a choice of two blends.

dentity COFFEEBAR + GALLERY went to great lengths to uphold their exacting standards. The barista received comprehensive training in Chicago, where solid emphasis was placed on making great coffee at high volume, fostering culture of excellence, and creating loyal customers. (He did an exceptional job of creating loyal customers, but more on that later). Located in Harajuku, identity COFFEEBAR + GALLERY is designed by the team behind Intelligentsia Venice Coffeebar’s interior. What sets identity COFFEEBAR + GALLERY apart from Intelligentsia’s coffeebars, is the art gallery currently exhibiting Gregg Fleishman’s Sculpt Chair as well as artworks by Sonja Smith and Jeff Smith. We found the shop at the end of a side alley after weaving through a labyrinth. Peering through the floor to ceiling windows from afar, we halted our steps in hesitation. Behind the counter stood a suave barista who could easily pass off as an assassin from an art-house film, with his steely eyes, wavy locks and goatee beard. Lined with whimsical sculpture chairs and intricate pottery, it felt like the shop was owned by a cadre of art experts who entertain sophisticated connoisseurs only; the ‘cooler than thou’ ambience of the place was daunting for coffee novices like us. My eyes darted across the menu anxiously, and I decided on Kenya Karatina

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IDENTITY COFFEEBAR+GALLERY

Peaberry hot coffee. The barista (we learnt, later, from Cafe & Restaurant magazine that his name is Abe) informed us it was unavailable and apologised profusely. Abe quickly recommended Kenya Kangocho and other ‘fruity’ coffee. I was impressed that he managed to size up my preference so quickly despite the language barrier.

tional piece. Eye-catching use of negative space imparts a sense of lightness: despite its precariously fragile appearance, the stress tested Sculpt Chairs can withstand body weight resiliently.

“ Astonishment broke the bewildered pause between us. ”

After settling for the organic Bolivia Anjilanaka (ahn-hee-lah-nah-ka) and Cappuccino, we waited on Gregg Fleishman’s Sculpt Chairs. The plywood furniture with playful geometric structure makes an excellent conversa-

While we were waiting, Abe surprised us with two cups of Santuario Geisha Colombia ice coffee brewed with Chemex. He apologised humbly (again) though it was probably my fault for mixing up the menu. The Santuario Geisha Colombia teased with a vivacious acidity, and had a refreshing jasmine aroma. The complexity of berry-like flavours with mandarin undertone is a testament to its

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lineage. While savouring the Geisha’s clean, sweet finish, I could not help but marvel at the incredibly outstanding Japanese service; the display of knowledge, devotion, pride, and mindfulness, reminded me of Mahatma Gandhi’s words.

We chatted with the owner, Mr. Matsumoto, who kindly shared about Intelligentsia’s tireless dedication to quality and his aspirations for identity COFFEEBAR + GALLERY. Mr. Matsumoto envisions a platform providing impetus for baristas, artists, coffee aficonados to interact and inspire new ideas, through public cupping, workshops, and other activities in the pipeline. It was almost closing time; Abe was busy rinsing a paper filter on the Hario V60. As we got up to return the cups before leaving, he asked if we had a bit of time. He was in the midst of preparing complimentary cups of Kenya Kangocho.

The Bolivia Anjilanaka jolted me out of my contemplative stupor with its delectable juicy notes: melon, peach, and pear, with a soft hint of spice finishing in nutty chocolate. In between sips of my coffee, I approached Abe to get the spelling right for my taste notes.

Flabbergasted by his gratuitous act, I muttered my thanks. I was lost in thoughts while savouring the full-bodied, zesty citrus flavour of the coffee. In an age where interpersonal relationships have become tenuous, the warmth of Abe’s earnest gesture is touching.

He thoughtfully offered an Intelligentsia packaging for me to bring home; all information I needed was on the label. Planet Propaganda did a superb job with the red foil packaging design: high gloss varnish and typography treatment commanded high dignity for a veritable coffee brand.

Such gratuitous act of incredible service is a testament to passion; passionate people embrace work, friends, and above all, life, whole-heartedly. Perhaps that is why they say coffee drinkers make better lovers. Before leaving, I requested to take a photo of the shop. They gladly obliged before

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IDENTITY COFFEEBAR+GALLERY

scuttling away to take cover; my girlfriend and I burst into guffaws at their shyness. We went back A week later, we wanted to buy a V60, and fresh beans for some home brew action. Needless to say, we went back to identity COFFEEBAR + GALLERY.

correct them for us. On the train back, my girlfriend shot me a puzzled look: there was something else in the paper bag. It was a bag of Zirikana Rwanda beans.

Astonishment broke the bewildered pause We stepped in with hearty greetings of between us, as we realised what Abe did: “Konnichiwa” from Abe and his lady col- he slipped in another bag of beans as a gift league, Yuko. Abe introduced new roasts without telling us. We were left speechless that just arrived; we eventually settled by yet another act of wonderful service. My on Amigos De Buesaco Colombia. Yuko lips pursed to suppress the rush of ambivapacked our purchase into a paper bag while lence: surprise, disconcert, gratitude, and Abe preheated the V60. respect. This time he wanted to treat us cups of hot Santuario Geisha Colombia (we had it served cold, brewed with Chemex, during our first visit). We chatted as he steadily coaxed flavours from the grounds, and received valuable pointers from him.

I believe this is a unique trait of the Japanese culture. Japanese do not verbalise everything: they make an effort to understand others’ feelings without asking directly. This is why most people are polite and considerate in Japan.

Abe kindly gave us spare paper filters without asking if we needed any. Again, we were impressed by his thoughtful initiative. There was no attempt to up-sell filters or carafes; service was delivered with pure empathy.

My girlfriend explained that Abe’s selfless act exemplifies Omotenashi. Loosely translated, it is an ancient philosophy of having ‘selfless desire to take care of others’ (Tokyo Weekender: Spirit of Omotenashi).

As we got up to collect our purchase, Abe The word ‘Omotenashi’ in Japanese and Yuko gave us an Intelligentsia V60 brew comes from omote (surface) and nashi guide for reference. He said the values indi- (less), which means “single-hearted”, and cated had changed and took the trouble to also mote (carry) and nashi (accomplish),

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meaning, “to achieve”. Therefore, Omotenashi has two meanings, which include offering a service without expectation of any returned favour, and the ability to actualise that idea into an action. Omotenashi has a similar meaning to hospitality in English, but it suggests a deeper part of the human consciousness (WAttention: Omotenashi – The Heart of Japanese Hospitality). No wonder identity COFFEEBAR + GALLERY remains a beautiful memory of our Tokyo Coffee Trail, one that we look back fondly, with gratitude and respect. We Went Back. Again. A week before I left Tokyo, we went back to pick up more beans and bid farewell: the Omotenashi experience at identity COFFEEBAR + GALLERY had turned us into devoted customers. Coffee is a compelling moment of sensory awakening: that is why we crave for the experience ever so often. A great barista is a friend, craftsman, and purveyor of this gratifying experience. Thanks for the unforgettable experience, identity COFFEEBAR + GALLERY. We will be back. Hopefully soon.

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OMOTESANDO KOFFEE #07

If you had stumbled upon OMOTESANDO KOFFEE by chance, thank your lucky stars for that moment of serendipity. The shop sits quaintly in a 60 year-old abode, shrouded by unkempt foliage. With an inconspicuous signpost leading to a forlorn courtyard, it is hard to imagine this as a place to get your caffeine fix. Do not be fooled by its ramshackle appearance, though. The coffee kiosk was slated to be there for only a year, after which the building would be demolished. The landlords reversed their decision for a good reason: OMOTESANDO KOFFEE has amassed much acclaim from specialty coffee fans in Tokyo.

he hardwood floor creaked as we gingerly slid the Fusuma door aside. A barista counter nestles within a cuboid steel structure standing in the middle of the room. The interior is a harmonious juxtapose of contemporary design and traditional structure, with square as a recurring theme. The signpost outside forms a square frame; the letter ‘O’ in KOFFEE is replaced by a square. The ‘Kashi’ snack is cube-like; merchandise display is labelled with clear acrylic cubes. Even the barista counter within the cuboid steel structure is divided into squares. There must be some sort of esoteric purpose for the squares and cubes, I thought, nudging my girlfriend to probe further. When asked, owner barista Eiichi Kunitomo broke into a toothy grin and explained that square represents a kiosk. Coffee is also spelled with a ‘K’ for the same reason. In the logo, ‘K’ is designed with an underdot for emphasis. ‘K’ is also the first letter of his surname ‘Kunitomo’. I asked Kunitomo why many places, including Singapore, were stated on the website. A look of shyness flitted across his face: he said that OMOTESANDO KOFFEE is a pop-up kiosk, and he dreams of opening in these places. The beauty of OMOTESANDO KOFFEE lies in the execution of its pop-up kiosk concept.

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OMOTESANDO KOFFEE

The steel structure can easily be taken apart and reassembled as the shop ‘pops up’. The bare frame can be customised to blend in with any location they move to. Pop-up stores are nothing new, but none are as intrinsically executed as OMOTESANDO KOFFEE.

Osaka and Italy, before settling in Tokyo as a barista/coffee consultant. Armed with an intimate knowledge of coffee, he has helped in setting up many successful cafes like Bread, Espresso &. and Monocle Café.

“ One that celebrates the impermanence of life. ”

The steel frame and brand identity are conceptualised by Eding:Post, bringing to life Kunitomo’s concept of transience: one that celebrates the impermanence of life, reminding us to focus on living in the now.

Eiichi Kunitomo is no stranger to transience, having honed his barista skills in

Impressed by OMOTESANDO KOFFEE, Monocle’s editor Tyler Brûlé entrusted Kunitomo to oversee the coffee and sweets menu for its first ever café in Tokyo.

One sip of OMOTESANDO KOFFEE black coffee and I understand why. It is one of the best blends we came across in our Tokyo Coffee Trail: a crisp cup of mellow sweetness topped with floral aro-

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matics and a smooth dark chocolate finish. The flavour changed with each sip as coffee cooled to reveal exotic earthy undertones. Based on Kunitomo’s own recipe, the blend of beans from Brazil, Ethiopia, El Salvador, and Indonesia, is roasted in Kyoto by the famous Ogawa. The baked custard snack (kashi) is also a favourite among customers. Served in a brown Kalita paper filter, the carefully crafted pastry resembles a cube shaped French canelé. Beneath the thick, caramelised crust, lies a moist and fragrant custard that makes a tantalising combination with iced Mocha. A delightful tango between the baked custard and bittersweet mocha sauce accentuated each other’s flavours, leaving you craving for more. No wonder many customers come by specially for the snack. Kunitomo gently reminded us to watch out for the low beam, before we stepped out. The gravel crunched as I turned and cast a wistful glance. There is something irresistible with the rustic charm, and I hope OMOTESANDO KOFFEE would still be here when I come back to Tokyo. I turned back to my girlfriend, and caught a glimpse of dark locks falling across her

cheeks, gently caressed by the whispering wind. I wish moments like this last forever. They say nothing lasts forever but forever does exist. Forever is made up of many Nows: that is why we should live in the moment of now. My grasp on her hand tightened as we walked, determined to celebrate the impermanence of life by cherishing Now. And Forever.

TOKYO COFFEE TRAIL

BE A GOOD NEIGHBOR COFFEE KIOSK #08

We made our way to BE A GOOD NEIGHBOR COFFEE KIOSK one chilly morning, guided by my girlfriendâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Google map app. Many specialty coffee shops in Tokyo thrive in obscure crannies like hidden gems, but this time we had it easy. We spotted it round a corner, near a red post box in a serene Sendagaya neighbourhood.

ike OMOTESANDO KOFFEE, it is a coffee kiosk, with just enough standing space for 4 persons. When we reached there, some people were lingering outside, chatting over coffee in hand. A staff was standing near them, rubbing his palms for warmth occasionally. Casually clad in a baseball cap with an apron over his shirt and jeans, he peeped at the shop eagerly. The staff was probably stranded outside, waiting for a chance to get back into the packed shop, I thought. He probably knew too well to interrupt the sanctity of caffeine rituals taking place in the shop: the first cup of coffee is often deeply pleasurable, leaving you quivering with frisson in the splendour of its aroma. We stood by the door, and waited for someone to leave before we could get in. BE A GOOD NEIGHBOR COFFEE KIOSK is started by Masahiro Kajiwara, a former editor of lifestyle magazine, Relax. He received training at Voila Coffee in Kagoshima before starting his own coffee kiosk. Thanks to Kajiwaraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s background, BE A GOOD NEIGHBOR COFFEE KIOSK pampers you with a choice of 2 to 3 single origin beans from Voila Coffee everyday. A warm buzz pervaded the air in the shop as polite nods and humble smiles punctuated the breezy ambience. You can tell that a relationship has formed over the

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BE A GOOD NEIGHBOR COFFEE KIOSK

counter when the barista greets some customers with a knowing “Usual?”.

in a peaceful moment with your coffee, a much-needed oasis in the hectic grind of daily life.

Exchange with a barista is brief but fostered over time, it can warm you even before your hot “ coffee is served. Warm, There is no fuzzy moments like these do wonders to melt away raucous poke-in-thethe tenuous decorum of life.

rib chatter from the baristas. ”

True to their namesake, BE A GOOD NEIGHBOR COFFEE KIOSK has perfected the art of being good neighbours. Service is thoughtful and personal, leaving you with a warm, affectionate feel. There is no raucous poke-in-the-rib chatter from the baristas: you get to indulge

Soon, a couple of customers left and the staff stranded outside came back in. It was only then we realised that he is none other than Masahiro Kajiwara.

He chose not to interrupt customers and got ‘stranded’ outside, shivering in the cold. Being a good neighbour is about thinking for other people, and contributing small deeds to make a difference in someone’s life.

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The word ‘neighbour’ has nothing to do with proximity. The question we should ask is not “Who is my neighbour?”, but “To whom can I be a neighbour?” Your neighbours are your family, your friends, and your next-door-neighbours. A neighbour can also be someone you come across during your day, who needs compassion. (Credit: Heartlight) It is the little things that can make one’s day great: from Kajiwara’s thoughtfulness to the ball of rope used a doorstop, preventing the door from slamming. How lucky to have a neighbour like them. I ordered El Salvador Finca San Antonio, brewed with the original BE A GOOD NEIGHBOR COFFEE KIOSK dripper. It turned out to be perfect for a refreshing morning. El Salvador Finca San Antonio had a light mouth feel that became syrupy as it cooled, with fruity notes of berries and orange that finished with a clean, honeyed aftertaste. The latte Sonia ordered was well-balanced, with a velvety base that carried into a subdued sweet finish. We checked out the menu and realised price-wise, BE A GOOD NEIGHBOR COFFEE KIOSK offered great value for money. Cost of living in Tokyo is high, but specialty coffee here cost lesser than what we pay for in Singapore; this is, undoubtedly, another

generous gesture from a good neighbour. Residents near TOKYO SKYTREE will be happy to know that BE A GOOD NEIGHBOR COFFEE KIOSK has opened another outlet there. If you happen to be in Asakusa, do show some neighbourly love and drop by for coffee.

TOKYO COFFEE TRAIL

CAFE LEGS #3 #09

Sitting in a discreet corner beside Ron Herman Sendagaya RH Cafe, the third iteration of Café Legs, Cafe Legs #3, resembles a coffee stand by the beach, with its shed-like appearance and surfing vibes. Artist Alexis Ross, along with owner of LA motorcycle shop Choke, Jeff Johnson, are the men behind Café Legs, a roving pop-up espresso bar. The inspiration for Café Legs comes from “Café con piernas”, the Chilean coffee bars where you are served by scantily clad waitresses.

quipped with a vintage FAEMA E61, Cafe Legs #3 offers espresso-based drinks. The FAEMA E61, directly imported from Italy, is a semi-automatic machine that is highly customised and requires careful maintenance. We ordered macchiato and espresso, deftly prepared by the ambidextrous Matsushita Daisuke. With a basket 3 times as big as a normal one, the espresso was thick, creamy and very winey. With a bright acidity, the first sip of the espresso lifted the palate, and mellowed just before it starts to overwhelm. JWT’s Ann Mack presented Embracing Analog at SXSW 2013. The resurgence of interest in analogue things is a countertrend in this digital era. There is something immensely comforting in collecting things from the past such as vinyl records and film cameras. People are fond of the past, because they believe it is better than the present. I do not know if the espresso shot pulled from FAEMA E61 is better, but subsequent sips reminded me of a strong red wine. Wheeler’s Yard in Singapore also serves coffee made with FAEMA E61. Try it and let me know.

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CAFE LEGS #3

TOKYO COFFEE TRAIL

HONEY COFFEE 15351 #10

The word ‘artisanal’ may be used tritely, but there is something endearing about the handcrafted chocolates Honey Coffee 15351 offers. An Italian-style café-restaurant–wine bar located in the peaceful Nakameguro neighbourhood, it is the first Honey Coffee in Tokyo, the other being in Fukuoka.

oney Coffee 15351‘s owner Asahi used to be a sommelier and pâtissier in Italy, before he headed back to Japan and honed his craft at Fukuoka Honey Coffee. That explains the comforting waft pervading the cafe, as we waited for our coffee orders. The logo has a tongue-in-cheek treatment: 1530051 is the district code, and the double zeroes are cleverly replaced by outlines of two coffee beans. Fresh cacao beans from Colombia, North Sierra Nevada are roasted in-house, with nothing but sugar, using traditional methods from Mexico and Italy to bring out intense flavours. Wrapped like candies, the chocolates we tried are from Arhuwacos, Finca St. Rafael, and Tumaco. The combination of rich cacao and crisp orange zest made the chocolate from Arhuwacos a delectable taste experience. The chocolate from Finca St. Rafael has a winey acidity that complemented the chocolate, while the one from Tumaco has a lime-like tartness that accentuated the smoothness of cacao. We spotted the book A-Z Coffee by Norwegian illustrator, Lars K Huse and graphic designer, Harald J. Vøyle, on the fridge. We asked to browse it and the reticent Asahi became chatty. Harald had dropped by Honey Coffee 15351, and gave Asahi a copy of the book. Presented as a visual glossary containing definitions, with explanations

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HONEY COFFEE 15351

and cross-references to other specialty coffee related information, the book picked up a prestigious award for “Årets Vakreste Bøker 2013” (this year’s most beautiful book). My French-pressed Honduras El Capucal arrived after 5 minutes; it had a round mouthfeel, subdued citric acidity and a clean finish.

distance relationship. If only I can capture them, I thought. Then again, such moments are precious because they are destined to be lost.

“ Enjoying a tender moment with my girlfriend, we shared nibbles. ”

Enjoying a tender moment with my girlfriend, we shared nibbles of the sample chocolates. Teasing banter and endearing moments of everyday life are rare, as we are in a long

Like these moments, artisan skills are lost in a world of mass-produced consumerism. We are not just losing folkloric handcrafted products, but a language of material, provenance and making.

“Every one of us is losing something precious to us. Lost opportunities, lost possibilities, feelings we can never get back again. That’s

TOKYO COFFEE TRAIL

part of what it means to be alive.â&#x20AC;? - Haruki Murakami, Kafka on the Shore I finally understand what he meant.

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THE COFFEESHOP #11

Situated among the slew of indie fashion boutiques in Daikanyama, THE COFFEESHOP is a selection shop that offers 8 types of single origin beans from Nozy Coffee, The Five Beans, and other roasters, prepared using the French Press, Hario V60, Kone filter and AeroPress. Espresso based drinks are unavailable here: the idea is that anyone can have good coffee anywhere, even at home.

he bean list offers a selection of coffee carefully curated by Tomoyuki Murasawa. Born in 1984, the young man has a burning passion for all things coffee. Murasawa amassed many fans, aficionados and professionals alike, with his assiduous posts on coffee berries, new paraphernalia, and brewing techniques. There is a sign that says “No Sugar, But Sweet” outside the shop. Somehow it reminds of us: a long distance relationship may not get closer by meet-ups but it is sweetened by thoughts. Besides, nothing beats the frisson of warm, unsullied nuances caressing the palate on chilly mornings. Murasawa is a digerati and his profound embrace of technology is evident at THE COFFEESHOP. There is a wall-mounted iPad loaded with a photobooth app for taking selfies and uploading to social media on the fly, making up for the lack of seats with social atmosphere. The iPad point-of-purchase system allows you to choose beans according to their distinct flavours, and submit your orders in guided navigation. THE COFFEESHOP‘s brand identity is inspired by über cool design and technology bible Monocle. With a minimal type palette, it is imbued with a touch of humour using cartoons.

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THE COFFEESHOP

Our curative coffee orders arrived shortly. El Salvador San Isidro is good for a lazy morning refreshment: sweet with a syrupy mouthfeel, balanced acidity and a lingering chocolatey aftertaste. Honduras Orland Arita was full-bodied with tones of mandarin orange, which cooled to reveal red cherry sweetness, making it the perfect wintry indulgence.

media. Third wave coffee may be in its nascent stages, but new blood like Tomoyuki Murasawa and SARUTAHIKO COFFEE injects a fresh impetus to Tokyo’s specialty coffee scene.

“ THE COFFEESHOP is the perfect amalgamation of print and digital media. ”

I was lost in thoughts as we toyed with the print brochure and iPad apps between sips. THE COFFEESHOP is the perfect amalgamation of print and digital

I have no doubt new developments in Japan’s coffee industry will be incredibly exciting.

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MOCHA COFFEE #12

Yemen was a dominant exporter of coffee in the fifteenth century, especially to areas around Arabian Peninsula. The word â&#x20AC;&#x153;Mochaâ&#x20AC;? has nothing to do with chocolate: it is the port of Al-Mokha in Yemen, through which coffee was exported. Mocha Coffee is the only place in Tokyo that serves Yemeni coffee, so it is a musttry for coffee buffs. The verdant patio in Daikanyama is perfect for a laid-back afternoon with friends; it also offers a pocket of solitude, impervious to the metropolitan hustle.

wner Hussein Ahmed was not around but his wife, Maiko, who tended the shop, was very helpful. Hussein purchases beans direct from farmers, and processes them at his own mills. The coffee cherries grow on mountain ranges of varying heights, resulting in different bean characteristics. The cherries are dried and processed traditionally to preserve the distinct gamey flavour. Mocha Coffee is keen in promoting Middle-Eastern culture to Japanese. The conventional Yemeni way to drink coffee is by boiling, which gives it a gritty taste. To adapt it for Japanese palates, coffee is prepared using the pourover method to capture crisp flavours of coffee beans. Handmade Middle-Eastern snacks such as fig mamool (dates cookies) and baklava (almond pie) are also available to top off your coffee with an unforgettable finish. Coffee came served in quaint, vintage china cups. Yemen has a unique coffee culture, and it shows in the flavor profiles. Mocha Mt. Somarah was a full-bodied profusion of herbaceous, fruity notes, winey flavours, and bucolic sweetness with a gentle acidity. Mocha Ismaili was light bodied, with deep fruity notes and a bright acidity. One of the highest grown coffees at over 2000 metres, Ismaili is one of the most prized coffee in Yemen.

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MOCHA COFFEE

It is heartening to know our generation is doing a part in preserving heritage. Preserving our traditions is a heavy responsibility that requires stewardship as well as adaptation of practices, so that the next generation can promptly accept and foster a cultural identity. It is even more comforting to know that, with people like Mocha Coffee around, good coffee is handed down for generations to enjoy.

â&#x20AC;&#x153; With people like Mocha Coffee around, good coffee is handed down for generations to enjoy. â&#x20AC;?

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BEAR POND ESPRESSO #13

Being too early, we went traipsing along sleepy alleys, and soaking in the pleasant lassitude of Shimokitazawa on a sunny morning. Bear Pond Espresso may draw hordes of coffee cognoscenti clamouring, but the ostensibly abhorrent rules made us jittery. Espresso is not available after 2pm. Strictly no photography is allowed in the shop. Only owner Katsuyuki Tanaka is allowed to make espresso. That is because only Tanaka is permitted to use the B.P.E. Original Technique, which he perfected after ruthless experimentation.

eted with plaudits for his uncanny ability to differentiate coffee origins just by cupping, Tanaka spent 2 decades in New York City. He was an advertising executive with an agency and later, an account manager for FedEx. Tanaka fell in love with espresso in Buenos Aires, when he worked on a commercial with Diego Maradona. Tanaka experienced the cusp of Third Wave Coffee in U.S. and became a familiar figure when Gimme! Coffee opened. He received comprehensive training at Counter Culture, where he worked with other specialty coffee luminaries. In 2009, Tanaka uprooted himself from an established career, and embarked on a coffee odyssey: he came back to Tokyo and started Bear Pond Espresso. There is no fancy signage, but Tanaka’s red Kawasaki motorbike is a tell-tale sign that we arrived at the right place. A big sign saying ‘Closed’ was on display. We vacillated outside when my girlfriend lurched, and slid the door open abruptly; I stepped in with bated breath. Apparently they were open for business; we ordered Dirty and Flower Child. The no photography policy and dolorous strains (there was an ukelele class being conducted) plunged me into silent depths of rumination. Tanaka prepared our orders in utter concentration, albeit with an insouciant demeanour.

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BEAR POND ESPRESSO

Served in a mason jar, the first sip of Dirty left me toe-tapping exultant. Dirty is a visceral treat consisting of 2 layers: espresso and cold milk. The first layer is 80% espresso, 20% milk and the second layer, 80% milk, 20% espresso. As the viscous espresso shot suffused with cold milk, flavour shifted from bold chocolatey to a smooth sweetness gradually. I ruefully relinquished the cup from my clutches, and exchanged it for my girlfriend’s Flower Child.

ly syrupy, with a harmonious blend of spicy and salty notes, yielding to dark chocolate sweetness.

We finished our drinks all too soon and glanced around the shop. We spotted a Chemex “ 413Project workshop postServed in a mason jar, er and asked about it.

the first sip of Dirty left me toe-tapping exultant. ”

Bear Pond Espresso‘s shot was delightful-

413Project is based in Massachusetts, and promotes the legendary Chemex. Workshops led by the world’s top roasters and baristas including Katsuyuki Tanaka drive this collaborative effort.

TOKYO COFFEE TRAIL

Tanaka informed us apologetically that there were no more vacancies; he would try his best to fit us in if people cancelled their appointments. He made the effort to ask when I was leaving Tokyo, and told us to swing by the following week if possible, to find out whether vacancies were available. Second Visit This time, we ordered the Red Eye and Cappuccino. Also known as a Shot in the Dark, Red Eye is made of espresso and a French Pressed single origin coffee. Red Eye was refreshing, finishing with a subtle hue of spice; the Cappuccino was smooth, with spicy notes cutting through sweetness of the milk. Tanaka pointed to his meticulous scribbles, explaining that the coffee was roasted a day earlier, and it was sharp but floral. He even remembered our names, and regretfully told us vacancies were unavailable due to overwhelming response. We bought a copy of his book Bear Pond Espresso, which he carefully signed off with a message: “Break away from conventional thinking”. The message turns out to be a fitting aphorism after my stroke. I find Tanaka to be disarmingly humble. His esoteric temperament is easily misunderstood. To me, he embodies the anarchic Shokunin spirit: with scant regard for

kitschy fads, the Shokunin persists on his philosophy. Tanaka’s obsessive pursuit of coffee excellence with felicity, is something one can only envy. Is the no photography policy a spiel? Cameras snapping away are a tad irritating, when you are trying hard to focus. Truculent service? My encounter with Tanaka says otherwise.

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LITTLE NAP COFFEE STAND #14

Little Nap COFFEE STAND sits in a corner populated by Tokyo’s creative community near Yoyogi Park, sequestered from the urban frenzy. The café emanates an unfettered, laid-back charm. It is a tranquil place where you can commune with others or enjoy time out alone; where people of different backgrounds have serendipitous encounters, spurring new collaborative visions. A caffeine joint that congregates people in the neighbourhood, Little Nap COFFEE STAND also has another outlet at Vacant in Harajuku.

wner Daisuke Hamada harked back to his coffee roots and opened Little Nap COFFEE STAND in Feb 2011. Although Hamada can deftly hand brew coffee, he is also familiar with the intricacies of espresso machines. With pertinent technical aptitude as part of his repertory, Hamada can tune-up his shiny Synesso machine himself. Being an avid music lover, Hamada also organises music events such as Little Nap MUSIC STAND. The blend of the day – made with beans from Brazil and Ethiopia, was silky with nutty notes, bolstered by a lilting citric acidity. Sonia’s latte was velvety, with a mellow acidity and milk that coaxed sweetness out of the beans. Ice-cream and beverages for children were also available on the menu. Far beyond a stimulating beverage, coffee is a social lubricant. Coffee time can be a social experience or personal indulgence; a coffee shop has become the center of urban sociability and Little Nap COFFEE STAND is just that. Strike up a chat with genial Hamada as an effusive welcome, or simply to know the latest happenings around town.

TOKYO COFFEE TRAIL

LITTLE NAP COFFEE STAND

I darted a surreptitious glance at Sonia, silently sighing with contentment: happiness is a cup of coffee with her. We put aside the empty cups, and continued sauntering with our hands clasped.

“ Happiness is a cup of coffee with her. ”

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BALLON D’ESSAI LATTE & ART #15

After leaving Bear Pond Espresso, we wandered around Shimokitazawa and explored the shops; that is how we found BALLON D’ESSAI. BALLON D’ESSAI means trial balloon in French. The idea is that customers come, and hopefully, they can find what they are searching from a hot-air balloon vantage point. It is clear latte art is the main draw: pictures of latte art are displayed prominently.

here is a fleeting beauty about latte art. It is a temporary masterpiece that is lost forever when you take your first sip. Like latte art, memories are ephemeral. Photo taking is a way to capture and preserve memories you treasure. Photos of latte art are ubiquitous in social media channels, with the proliferation of smartphones. Instead of just free pour rosetta, heart or tulip, etching techniques are used to create exquisite designs. Here, you hear exasperated gasps of ‘kawaii’ before a photo snapping frenzy begins. Opened in June 2012, BALLON D’ESSAI aspires to be an art gallery cum café that provides a platform for art-lovers to interact. Works by up-and-coming artists bedecked walls of the small café. The melding of art and coffee is apt, as latte art is also an artistic expression, albeit on a different canvas. A trial balloon is a project or policy put forward experimentally to gauge reactions. BALLON D’ESSAI is just that. It gives art-lovers a preview, providing a test bed for artists. Susumu Fujimiya is the amiable barista, and he cuts a familiar figure. We have seen him compete at Japan Latte Art Championship. He warmly welcomed us, introducing the blend and single origin coffee available on 2 hoppers.

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BALLON D’ESSAI LATTE & ART

Workshops and seminars are open for signups. Mastering latte art is an utterly complex affair: it is both a science and art where many technical as well as aesthetic skills are required. We ordered two lattes, and were too enraptured by the art that we forgot to take down taste notes! “Sometimes you will never know the value of something, until it becomes a memory.” - Dr. Seuss Over the years, I began to appreciate times when moments turn into memories. Like latte art, our Tokyo Coffee Trail will soon become nothing but an evocative memory, I thought, stepping out with a knowing smile.

“ Sometimes you will never know the value of something, until it becomes a memory. ”

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NOZY COFFEE #16

Located along a road in the halcyon Setagaya neighbourhood, Nozy Coffee is named after Masataka Nojo’s moniker ‘Nozy’. Born in 1987, Masataka surprised industry veterans by starting Nozy Coffee while he was still in university. They have since expanded, and even supplied beans to a number of specialty coffee joints, including THE COFFEESHOP and SARUTAHIKO COFFEE.

stute use of space is evident here. In the basement is a retail counter and roastery; on the first floor is standing space for drinking and public cupping. Loft seats by the window create a snug space where you can enjoy solace or intimate chats. The elevated loft seating lends a breezy feel despite space constraint. Brewed coffee is served in Bodum French Presses. A French Press allows oils to infuse, and you can taste the beans in their purest form. The beans Nozy Coffee offers are on the fruity side – a testament to light roasting. Until recently, dark espresso roast is favoured: the shots are gloriously chocolatey and have a rich crema. Lately, the trend is to embrace lighter roasts where fruit acids emerge; a light roast can cajole subtle nuances out of the beans. After all, roasting brings out the aroma and flavour locked inside green coffee beans. Releasing them so that they can tease your palate is the key. Pourover coffee or hand drip coffee, is a manual technique that uses a filtered coffee dripper, and is all the rage these days. Before you decry pourover as a snobbish gimmick, there really is a remarkable difference in taste. Light roasted beans make excellent filter coffee, as aromas are released and there is more clarity in flavours. We ordered Dominica Don Jimenez and Honduras El Comun. The staff thoughtful-

TOKYO COFFEE TRAIL

NOZY COFFEE

ly gave us small cups, so we could sample each others’ coffee.

Education is of utmost importance for specialty coffee, whether one is honing his morning ritual or pursuing a career in the industry.

Dominica Don Jimenez had a light body, bright notes of cherry tomato, becoming syrupy as it cooled with apricot flavour and a car“ amelly finish. Honduras Life is a shared El Comun had a round, smooth mouthfeel, sweetlearning journey, and ness of cherries and syrupy we can grow together, malic notes of apple.

not apart. ”

Impressed with the luxuriant fruity notes, I bought Brazil Fazenda Pe Da Serra for brewing on a V60 back in Singapore.

Nozy Coffee emphasises education. Green coffee beans are displayed with roasted ones to encourage visual learning; public cupping sessions are organised so that you learn the characteristics of different varietals.

In an increasingly fragmented world where we are constantly inundated with information, a café has the

TOKYO COFFEE TRAIL

depth of knowledge that can make coffee time an enjoyable learning experience. In this regard, Nozy Coffee delivers truly holistic experiential learning. While sipping Soniaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coffee, I feel fortunate to have a girlfriend sharing the same passion. Life is a shared learning journey, and we can grow together, not apart. True love is never apart, maybe in distance, but not in heart.

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CAFE OBSCURA #17

We walked through the drizzle on a wintry morning in a placid Sangenjaya neighbourhood. Cafe Obscura is a highlight of our Tokyo Coffee Trail, as it is the only cafe offering siphon coffee. In fact, Cafe Obscura offers only siphon coffee; siphon or syphon coffee is a brewing method using a vacuum pot.

t involves steeping coffee with boiling water ascended from a flask to the extraction, and filtering of coffee into a clear receptacle. In Japanese siphon coffee methods, coffee is stirred twice using a bamboo spatula, letting water permeate the ground coffee evenly. This allows complete degassing. Siphons make wonderful coffee, because they release a rich gamut of flavors in an exceptionally clean brew. The barista brought out a chalkboard menu and explained the different bean flavours available. With 7 single origins and 2 blends, we were spoiled for choice. We ordered a Nicaragua single origin and the Mandheling. She allowed us to watch and take pictures, while she churned out our orders. The counter is designed to showcase the siphon process. The barista turned into a tinkering alchemist in a chemistry experiment; all she lacked was a stern laboratory coat. There is something magical about watching an indulgent treat appearing before your eyes gradually. A palpable sense of anticipation swelled, as we observed the incipient concoction develop. The coffee from Nicaragua was intensely fruity, with a bright acidity and lingering finish. The Mandheling was a complex coffee that exhibited smoky earthy notes, gentle acidity, finishing with dark chocolate relish.

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CAFE OBSCURA

If a house without books is like the body without soul, Cafe Obscura is a ‘soulful’ place. Books by Frank Gehry, Ryan McGinley and Anish Kapoor lined the shelves. Books and coffee make perfect companions for a café fanatic; nothing is more pleasurable than your favourite coffee, a good book, and the afternoon to enjoy both. They have another outpost, Cafe Obscura Laboratory – a coffee stand and roastery, 15 minutes walk away, where espresso-based drinks are available. We bought beans from Tanzania; with a high city or French roast, it was easily the darkest roast in our Tokyo Coffee Trail. The sky was still drizzling when we left. It

was all right, though. There are storms in life, and we cannot always bask in sunshine; let us walk in the rain together.

“

We cannot always bask in sunshine; let us walk in the rain together. ”

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AMAMERIA ESPRESSO #18

Located on the ground floor of a residential apartment in Musashi-Koyama, Amameria Espresso combines industrial chic and country aesthetics, using raw concrete replete with exposed brickwork. That is not the only melding: Amameria Espresso is an amalgamation of the words mame (â&#x20AC;&#x153;beanâ&#x20AC;? in Japanese) and cafeteria.

mameria Espresso has a comprehensive menu that includes Gibraltar and Flat White. Single origin hot coffee is also available; you can choose the beans and brewing methods, mainly, Kono hand drip, French Press, and AeroPress. Certified cupping judge Toshiaki Ishii opened Amameria Espresso in 2010, after spending 7 years honing his craft in another cafe. There, he made 300 to 400 cups of coffee everyday (up to 1000), and insisted having latte art on every possible cup. Although tea is austerely steeped in Japanese culture, Ishii had a head-start in the coffee industry as his parents ran a kissaten. Fiercely dedicated, he bought a roaster to learn the finer aspects of roasting for another 3 years. It comes as no wonder that there is a humongous roaster in the cafe, which will certainly tantalise customers during roasting. Initially, Amameria Espresso started out as a roastery. It turned out to be so wellreceived by the community that Ishii switched to a cafe business model. Elderly residents resting and enjoying the house blend, is a common sight. Families frequent Amameria Espresso as it is child-friendly, with juice and cocoa on the menu. We ordered a Flat White and hand dripped Guatemala Las Mercedes. The Flat White has a lavishly smooth texture, rounding off with a sweet finish. The Guatemala

TOKYO COFFEE TRAIL

AMAMERIA ESPRESSO

Las Mercedes is a Cup of Excellence 2012 entry, with floral aromatics and sweet notes. With a juicy mouthfeel, it nearly turned me into a slobbery mess, before finishing in a lingering coconut aftertaste. After sating our caffeine cravings, we ambled along the cavernous shopping arcade nearby. Far beyond warm hospitality and impeccable service, our Tokyo Coffee Trail engendered indelible memories of our time together. As my footsteps reverberated their last cadence, a tinge of melancholy grew gently: my Tokyo trip had come to an end. It is time for us to part again.

We should not be sad though, because every day apart is one day closer to being together again.

â&#x20AC;&#x153; We should not be sad though, because every day apart is one day closer to being together again. â&#x20AC;?

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AFTERWORD

collapsed during a football game in March 2013 (on my girlfriendâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s birthday, no less). My heart stopped beating, causing blood to pool and formed a clot, resulting in a stroke. It is a Pons (part of the brain stem) stroke. I have no intention of becoming a protagonist mired in the throes of a crippling stroke, but let me explain. I am in a long distance relationship with my girlfriend, Sonia (she is based in Tokyo; I live in Singapore). In early 2013, we met up again and went on a Tokyo Coffee Trail. We traversed the metropolis for one month in our pursuit for good coffee (more time was spent cavorting along aisles of Don Quijote but that is beside the point). Many things were left unfinished after the stroke: Tokyo Coffee Trail was one of them. I wrote only 8 cafes (out of 18) before it happened. This book is an evocative memento of our caffeine shenanigans in Tokyo and I am bent on finishing it. Much has changed in Tokyoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s specialty coffee scene, and this book can only serve as a general guide. In the meantime, enjoy your coffee!

www.CoffeeDrinkersMakeBetterLovers.wordpress.com

Every love story is beautiful but ours is my favourite.