32 minute read
Dining | Drink
Echo of Spirits Past
A new Grandview distillery was “this close” to opening its tasting room when bars were forced to close. The founders are making the best of it.
By Erin EdwArds
One evening in mid-March, I settled in front of my laptop to watch a cocktail class livestreamed from a distillery in Grandview. Then, as instructed, I went to my kitchen, dusted off a cocktail shaker, made some simple syrup, squeezed several limes and opened a new bottle of white rum from Echo Spirits Distilling Co. Voila! A traditional daiquiri.
This new way to engage with customers in a stay-at-home environment was concocted on the fly by Echo Spirits, a nascent operation on West Sixth Avenue that was within a few weeks of opening its new bar to the public when Ohio’s dine-in ban began.
“We’re a distillery [that] was gearing up to open up our bar, and it seems like just about every day we’re kind of pivoting on what exactly our business is and what it does,” says co-founder Joe Bidinger.
Bidinger and fellow co-founder Nikhil Sharoff, two high school buddies from Bishop Watterson High School, are becoming experts in the art of the sharp turn.
In 2008, Bidinger graduated from college with a finance degree and a penchant for good craft beer, but jobs (and cash) were sparse because of the Great Recession. It was cheaper to make his own beer.
He and Sharoff started homebrewing, and their interest in the practice grew from there. “We made mead, we made wine, we made sake,” Bidinger says. “We kind of made all the different fermented beverages just for fun. We just think it’s a really cool process.” The pair started putting together plans to open a brewery when the white-hot craft beer revolution took off. Reticent about the growing competition in brewing, they shifted their business plan to distilling and moved into their production facility last year.
Owners Nikhil Sharoff and Joe Bidinger
The distillery’s first two products—a white rum and a forthcoming genever (what Bidinger describes as “a hybrid between gin and malt whiskey”)—are spirits that deliberately hark back (or in this case, echo back) to olden days, specifically the pre-Prohibition era. Instead of whiskey or vodka, the founders chose to enter the market with spirits not being produced by the two bigger distilleries in town: Middle West Spirits and Watershed Distillery.
The distillery’s rum, which is available for sale at Echo Spirits’ on-site bottle shop, is bound to challenge what people think about light rums. Often used in cocktails, they tend to be stripped down and neutral in flavor. “We went out intentionally trying to design a rum that’s very flavor-forward,” says Bidinger.
It’s uncertain when customers will be able to visit Echo Spirits’ new bar, which features cocktails developed by beverage director Derek Reno, a veteran Columbus bartender. In the meantime, the team plans to continue connecting to people virtually through its series of cocktail classes. Get those shakers ready. echospirits.com
Echo Spirits Cocktail Sneak Peek
“Uncharted settlements”
this straw-colored libation comes served in a nick and nora glass with a clipped eucalyptus leaf. • 1 1/4 ounces eucalyptus-infused
Echo spirits rum • 3/4 ounce pisco • 3/4 ounce vermouth blanc • 3/4 ounce Lillet Blanc • 3/4 ounce Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur • Expressed lemon peel
let’s eat
our guide to the best restaurants in Columbus
Editor’s Note: Columbus Monthly is abbreviating our restaurant listings this month as ohio’s dine-in ban continues in response to the CoVid-19 pandemic. at press time, all restaurants listed were offering carryout, delivery or both. this is not a comprehensive list. Please call restaurants to check hours and availability.
3 Brothers Diner
Mexian/American | 3090 Southwest Blvd., Grove City, 614-317-7798. this family-friendly spot combines american, mexican and Cuban diner fare on one menu. you’ll find a variety of omelets, egg scrambles, breakfast burritos, French toast and pancakes, plus entrées like Cuban roasted chicken, jambalaya and more. BLD $
6-1-Pho
Vietnamese | 4386 N. High St., Clintonville, 614-7064903. a fast-casual restaurant where diners can build their own noodle soups, sandwiches and noodle salads—all of which pull flavors from classic Vietnamese cuisine. LD $
101 Beer Kitchen
Gastropub | 7509 Sawmill Rd., Dublin, 614-210-1010; 397 Stoneridge Ln., Gahanna, 614-934-5501; 817 Polaris Pkwy., Westerville, 614-776-4775. at this expertly executed gastropub (its owners could school others in the art of developing a restaurant), craft brews are paired with made-from-scratch, seasonal dishes. BRLD $$
Bake Me Happy
Café & Bakery | 106 E. Moler St., Merion Village, 614477-3642. this 100-percent gluten-free coffee shop and retail bakery is an extension of bake me happy’s growing wholesale business. the cheerful café offers coffee from local roasters, nostalgic treats and some savory offerings. BL $
Bamboo Thai Kitchen
Thai | 774 Bethel Rd., Northwest Side, 614-326-1950. this bright spot in a drab strip mall offers well-executed thai staples like som tum (green papaya salad), flavorful green and red curries and pad thai, plus some Vietnamese, Korean and Chinese dishes. LD $$
Bangkok Grocery & Restaurant
Thai | 3277 Refugee Rd., East Side, 614-231-8787. a family-owned grocery and eatery specializing in authentic thai fare for more than 30 years. go for some of the city’s best pad thai, tom yum soup, nam tok and thai curries. LD $
Barley’s Brewing Co.
Brewpub | 467 N. High St., Arena District, 614-2282537. the microbrewery offers an expansive selection of brews, which can be enjoyed at the hand-carved, century-old mahogany bar alongside american bar favorites like nachos and burgers. LD $$
Bexley Pizza Plus
Pizza | 2651 E. Main St., Bexley, 614-237-3305. With 22 specialty pizzas and 41 toppings, the options are endless at this bexley pizzeria. LD $
Borgata Pizza Café
Italian | 5701 Parkville St., North Side, 614-891-2345; 2285 W. Dublin-Granville Rd., Northwest Side, 614396-8758. a neighborhood italian eatery specializing in new york-style pizza, scratch-made pastas, calzones and panini. try the ricotta cavatelli with marinara or spicy stuffed peppers—tender Cubanelle peppers with marinara and gooey mozzarella cheese. LD $$
Brassica
Mediterranean/Middle Eastern | 2212 E. Main St., Bexley, 614-929-9990; 680 N. High St., Short North, 614-867-5885; 1442 W. Lane Ave., Upper Arlington, 614-929-9997. From the owners of northstar Café comes this build-it-yourself eatery with a focus on fresh vegetables and proteins spiked with bold middle eastern and mediterranean spices. LD $$
Brekkie Shack
American | 1060 Yard St., Grandview, 614-208-7766. staying true to its name, this cheerful grandview yard spot focuses on breakfast, with scratch-baked goods, savory breakfast sandwiches, pancakes and coffee from Crimson Cup. beer and cocktails are also available. BBRL $
Brown Bag Deli
Deli | 898 Mohawk St., German Village, 614-4434214. the longtime german Village sandwich shop keeps it simple yet tasty with crave-worthy sandwiches like the turkey-and-cranberry-mayo-topped Village addiction, plus daily soups, salads and sides on display under the counter. LD $
Buckeye Donuts
Bakery | 1998 N. High St., Campus, 614-2913923. a Campus legend since 1969, buckeye donuts is open 24 hours to satisfy cravings for classic doughnuts and diner-style cuisine at all hours of the day. BLD $
Buckeye Pho
Vietnamese | 761 Bethel Rd., Northwest Side, 614-4512828. Venture to this strip mall eatery for high-quality Vietnamese fare with modern décor. LD $
Cravings Café
Soup & Sandwiches | 114 N. Front St., Downtown, 614670–4439. this café from matt and lindsey tewanger offers sandwiches made with locally sourced ingredients, house-baked brioche and roasted meats. also featuring small-batch coffee and breakfast pastries. BL $
Creole Kitchen
Cajun & Creole | 1052 Mount Vernon Ave., East Side, 614-372-3333. Chef henry butcher serves up authentic, savory Creole food—po’boys, alligator, gumbo—in hearty portions. BLD $
DK Diner
American | 1715 W. Third Ave., Grandview, 614-4885160. the dK stands for doughnut kitchen at this off-the-beaten-path diner with a cozy atmosphere and local flavor. enjoy breakfast all day. BLD $
Dosa Corner
Indian | 1077 Old Henderson Rd., Upper Arlington, 614-459-5515. a family-owned, southern indian “fast food” spot that specializes in thin, pancake-like dosas made with rice and lentil flour batter with a choice of vegetarian fillings. LD $
Fukuryu Ramen
Japanese | 4540 Bridge Park Ave., Dublin, 614-5537392; 1600 W. Lane Ave., Upper Arlington, 614-9295910. Jeff tsao, whose family owned the Kahiki supper Club, brings his melbourne, australia, ramen shop stateside. it’s quick, modern, bustling and adds a little rock ’n’ roll to traditional Japanese fare. the signature tonkotsu and red dragon ramens are standouts. LD $$
G. Michael’s Bistro & Bar
Low Country | 595 S. Third St., German Village, 614-464-0575. this historic german Village eatery promises fine dining with a low country influence. expect bold flavors in dishes layered with components and exceptional sauces. Preparations and ingredients change with the seasons. D $$$
Let’s Eat comprises Columbus Monthly editors’ picks and is updated monthly based on available space. if you notice an error, please email eedwards@columbusmonthly.com.
$$$$ average entrée $26 and higher $$$ average entrée $16–$25 $$ average entrée $11–$15 $ average entrée under $10 - Valet available - Kitchen open late outdoor Patio seating b breakfast br brunch l lunch d dinner Critics’ Choice NEW! restaurant has opened within the last few months.
Gallo’s Tap Room
Pub Grub | 5019 Olentangy River Rd., Northwest Side, 614-457-2394; 240 N. Liberty St., Powell, 614-396-7309. A dark, modern sports bar brimming with top-notch beers and an updated pub grub menu featuring burgers, wings and pizza. LD $
Geordie’s Restaurant
Irish & British Pubs | 1586 S. High St., Merion Village, 614-674-6004. Chef-owner Glen hall-Jones brings the flavors of his native northeast England to Columbus. At dinner, pair a pint with Cornish pasties or the fish and chips. Weekends bring brunch, featuring a full English breakfast, and newcastle united on the tV. BRD $$
Giuseppe’s Ritrovo
Italian | 2268 E. Main St., Bexley, 614-235-4300.this unfussy bexley restaurant is the place to go for classic Italian pasta dishes, such as Gamberi Diavola and Fettucine Calabrese. Italy plays just as big a role behind the bar with a lengthy wine list, a solid amaro selection and outstanding craft cocktails. LD $$
Huong Vietnamese Restaurant
Vietnamese | 1270 Morse Rd., North Side, 614-8250303. housed in a northland-area strip mall, this bright and simply decorated restaurant turns out great Vietnamese fare with pho, bun nem nuong and Asian-style barbecue pork. LD $
Indian Oven
Indian | 427 E. Main St., Downtown, 614-220-9390. Friendly and chic eatery serving northern Indian and bengali meals. the menu includes palak paneer, tandoori chicken, biryani and roasted lamb shank. LD $$
Indochine Café
Vietnamese | 561 S. Hamilton Rd., Whitehall, 614-231-7357. Classic Vietnamese and laotian fare is presented in a colorful, photo-filled menu at this traditional momand-pop eatery. LD $$
Jiu Thai Asian Café
Chinese | 787 Bethel Rd., Northwest Side, 614-7325939. located in the olentangy Plaza shopping center, this restaurant specializes in flavorful, authentic cuisine from northern China. Go for the tofu skewers, lamb dumplings and handmade noodles in generous portions at low prices. LD $
Jonys Sushi
Japanese | 195 Thurman Ave., German Village, 614-706-4979. the owners of south Village Grille opened this takeout sushi shop right next door. the colorful shop offers appetizers, nigiri, sashimi, classic sushi rolls and a variety of interesting specialty rolls. LD $$$
Kabob Shack
Afghan | 4568 Cemetery Rd., Hilliard, 614-742-7054. owner sakeena bary’s casual eatery offers a cuisine rarely found in Central ohio. Kabob shack’s menu includes mantu (Afghan dumplings), lamb chops, kofta kebab, daal, samosas, falooda (an Afghan dessert) and more. LD $$
Katalina’s
Latin American | 3481 N. High St., Clintonville, 614689-8896; 1105 Pennsylvania Ave., Harrison West, 614294-2233. Expect an eclectic menu of latin-leaning items at this café known for its chalkboard walls, scratch-made salads and sandwiches and killer patio in the warmer months. BLD $
Lalibela
Ethiopian | 1111 S. Hamilton Rd., Whitehall, 614-2355355. one of the best places for Ethiopian food in the city is lalibela, a strip-mall restaurant that’s modest on the outside and welcoming on the inside. Request to be seated at a mesob, a colorful woven communal table, and start off with some Ethiopian beer or honey wine. LD $
Lávash Café
Middle Eastern | 2985 N. High St., Clintonville, 614-2637777. this quick-service middle Eastern eatery serves a mix of mediterranean food, coffee and desserts. LD $$
The Light of Seven Matchsticks
Small Plates | 5601 N. High Street, Worthington, 614436-2625. the owners of natalie’s Coal-Fired Pizza and live music celebrate Prohibition-era Columbus with this charming basement speakeasy offering snacks, small plates and excellent cocktails. open Wednesday through sunday only. D $
Lindey’s
American | 169 E. Beck St., German Village, 614-228-4343. A Columbus institution, this upscale German Village restaurant with upper East side new york flair is a diner favorite, no doubt due to its classic and consistently good fine-dining fare and lush patio. BRLD $$$
The Lox Bagel Shop
Café & Bakery | 772 N. High St., Short North, 614-8244005. Kevin Crowley’s cute short north shop offers handmade bagels that are boiled and then baked over a live fire. the shop’s namesake sandwich and pastrami sandwich are standouts. BL $
Lupo
Spanish | 2124 Arlington Ave., Upper Arlington, 614-9145455. From la tavola’s Rick and Krista lopez, this tapas spot offers a menu of seasonal small plates combining spanish and Italian influences. the full bar focuses on aperitivo-inspired cocktails and a curated list featuring spanish and Portuguese wines. LD $$
Kabob Shack
McCarthy’s Wildflower Café
American | 3420 Indianola Ave., Clintonville, 614-2622233. A cozy neighborhood restaurant serving madefrom-scratch comfort food, with pot roast, meatloaf, southern fried chicken and sunday brunch. BBRLD $
Melt Bar & Grilled
Pub Grub | 840 N. High St., Short North, 614-4531150; 4206 Worth Ave., Easton, 614-934-6020. the Cleveland-based, kitschy bar is all about one thing: grilled cheese. here, you’ll get the expected plain cheese as well as odd variations, like two slices of texas-style toast stuffed with pierogi, sauerkraut and cheese. LD $$
Mi Li Café
Vietnamese | 5858 Emporium Sq., North Side, 614899-9202. the tucked-away north side eatery is famous for its authentic, made-from-scratch banh mi, the first and one of the only remaining items from the original menu. It’s since expanded, offering a heartier list of Vietnamese classics. LD $
Min Ga Korean Restaurant
Korean | 800 Bethel Rd., Northwest Side, 614-4577331. this friendly strip-mall spot serves Korean specialities like kimchi, bibimbap, bulgogi and gopchang. LD $$
Northstar Café
American | 951 N. High St., Short North, 614-298-9999; 4241 N. High St., Clintonville, 614-784-2233; 4015 Townsfair Way, Easton, 614-532-5444; 109 S. State St., Westerville, 614-394-8992. northstar’s imaginative menu has a healthful emphasis on organic ingredients served in a casual, order-at-the-counter café setting. At peak times, it’s common to see diners lined up for the beet-laden veggie burger, pizzas, salads, rice-andveggie bowls and oversized cookies. BBRLD $$
Olde Towne Tavern
Pub Grub | 889 E. Oak St., Olde Towne East, 614-2522955. olde towne East’s convivial bar brings beer to a once-thirsty neighborhood, as well as gourmet grilled
Pablo’s Havana Café
Latin American | 9685 Sawmill Rd., Powell, 614-3894302. this Cuban café serves authentic recipes made primarily with locally sourced ingredients. be sure to try its signature El Cubano sandwich. LD $
Pasqualone’s Ristorante
Italian | 5766 Emporium Square, North Side, 614-8902070. this hidden gem in Columbus square shopping Center serves Italian classics in a dining room where kitsch and fine dining collide. the veal dishes are the big star here. D $$$$
Pat and Gracie’s
Burgers | 138 Graceland Blvd., Clintonville, 614-9875147; 340 E. Gay St., Downtown, 614-914-8484. this friendly tavern serves up solid smash-cooked burgers, hand cut fries and craft beer. Also keep an eye out for specials like yankee Pot Roast. BRLD $$
Paulie Gee’s Short North
Pizza | 1195 N. High St., Short North, 614-808-0112. A brooklyn-based pizzeria with neapolitan-style pies and craft beer. offers traditional and eclectic pizza toppings with names like the hog Pit brisket, the Greenpointer and the Ricotta be Kiddin’ me. D $$$
Plank’s Café & Pizzeria
Pizza | 743 Parsons Ave., South Side, 614-4457221. Plank’s bakes some of the finest pies in the city with a notoriously sweet sauce and thin crust. BLD $
Poong Mei Asian Bistro
Asian | 4720 Reed Rd., Upper Arlington, 614-273-9998. this popular spot boasts a sprawling menu showcasing Chinese, Korean, Japanese and Korean-Chinese dishes, plus plenty of sushi and soju to choose from. Check out the fresh noodle dishes and spicy beef hot pot. LD $$
Portia’s Café
Vegan | 4428 Indianola Ave., Clintonville, 614-9283252. this Clintonville café serves only vegan and gluten-free options with an emphasis on raw foods. the menu includes dips like hummus and guacamole, falafel, soups, salads, wraps, smoothies and veganfriendly Cheezecake. BRLD $
Service Bar
Contemporary American | 1230 Courtland Ave., Short North, 614-947-1231. From middle West spirits comes this fine restaurant run by executive chef Avishar barua. Excellent seasonal cocktails (often featuring the distillery’s oyo spirits) are served at a gorgeous antique bar. barua’s playful menu offers a mix of shareable plates and entrées that express his command of modern techniques and sense of nostalgia. D $$$
Skillet
American | 410 E. Whittier St., Schumacher Pl., 614443-2266. Chef Kevin Caskey has developed a huge following for his creative comfort food, served out of a cozy, no-reservations schumacher Place space. the menu changes nearly daily to reflect whatever local ingredients the chef can source. BBRL $$
Smoked on High Barbeque Co.
Barbecue | 755 S. High St., Brewery District, 614-7549711. max mcGarity runs this quick-service barbecue spot in a Victorian-style house in the brewery District. head there for craft beer and four standard meat options—chicken drumsticks, pulled pork, brisket and pork spareribs, plus sauces and sides. LD $$
Starliner Diner
Diner | 4121 Main St., Hilliard, 614-529-1198. After 21 years in its Cemetery Road location, starliner moved into a former post office in old hilliard. this funky diner serves giant helpings of zesty, latin-leaning comfort food at breakfast, lunch and dinner. BLD $
Tommy’s Diner
Diners | 914 W. Broad St., West Side, 614-2242422. A longstanding, classic 1950s-style diner serving breakfast (a popular choice among the Downtown business crowd), lunch and some Greek dishes. BL $
Tony’s Italian Ristorante
Italian | 16 W. Beck St., Brewery District, 614224-8669. In business since 1982, this white-tablecloth brewery District stalwart offers a blend of traditional and modern Italian-American food, with lasagne, shrimp scampi, veal saltimbocca and tony’s own Fettuccini. LD $$$
The Top Steak House
Steakhouse | 2891 E. Main St., Bexley, 614231-8238. For 60 years, this bexley palace of beef has offered award-winning, high-end cuisine (filet mignon, pork and lamb chops and seafood) in a dimly lit, vintage, 1960s-looking haunt. D $$$
The Whitney House
American | 666 High St., Worthington, 614-396-7846. Casual enough for the whole family yet upscale enough for date night, the sleek Whitney house takes familiar American classics up a notch. the Daily Plates specials rise above the standard fare, and a solid cocktail and wine list make this olde Worthington spot a good stop any night of the week. BRLD $$$
Xi Xia Western Chinese Cuisine
Chinese | 1140 Kenny Centre Mall, Northwest Side, 614-670-7736. Xi Xia offers an authentic tour of flavors from the ningxia autonomous region in northcentral China. highlights include the chewy stirred noodles and rice pilaf with cubed lamb. LD $$
Yellow Brick Pizza
Pizza | 892 Oak St., Olde Towne East, 614-725-5482; 245 King Ave., Campus, 614-429-0750. this pizzeria has the feel of a beloved neighborhood haunt while offering a fresh take on the classic ’za, with specialty pies and appetizers. LD $
AMY ACTON WAS BORN FOR THIS CRISIS
In the midst of a global emergency, Ohio’s health director has risen from obscurity to widespread acclaim, providing strength, intellect and candor for an isolated and anxious state.
• BY CHRIS GAITTEN
52 COLUMBUS MONTHLY MAY 2020 PHOTO: JOSHUA A. BICKEL
continued from Page 55
THIS PANDEMIC IS NOT A WAR, nor a wildfire, nor a violent storm. It’s quiet, invisible—a poisonous secret. Until recently, life still seemed normal, even as it burrowed into people’s lungs. The novel coronavirus is now defined by absence: the sounds of beeping machinery as hospitals prepare empty beds for the surge, the whoosh of buses along vacant Downtown streets.
We work away from workplaces, and far too many people can’t work at all. Schools are closed. Sports are gone. Restaurants are empty, and the bars, salons and gyms are dark. People don’t leave their houses for days on end, and everyone is waiting. And waiting. And waiting. And sometime around 2 each afternoon, Dr. Amy Acton comes on.
MAY 2020 COLUMBUS MONTHLY 53
Over about an hour and a half, she told him the harrowing story of her early life. As detailed in his article, Acton’s parents divorced shortly after her brother was born, when she was 3, and her mom got custody. They bounced around Youngstown—18 homes in a dozen years, she estimated—including one that was just a bed in a basement. Her mom eventually remarried, to a man who abused Acton. The family was living in a tent in a campground when officials took the kids away, awarding custody to their father. The last time Acton saw her mom was in a courthouse, shortly before she and her husband skipped bail. But Acton’s life finally began to stabilize. She eventually earned her medical degree from Northeastern Ohio Universities College of Medicine, fulfilling a childhood desire.
Franko thinks Acton was so open with him because she sensed her story could be a beacon for others. He wrote it as the coda for his journalism career, and the last copies of The Vindicator hit the presses on Aug. 30. The final edition went out the next morning, and the article was posted to the publication’s website for just one day, until the paper officially went dark at midnight. An archival website was set up some time later, but Acton’s story was buried in 20 years of articles. It would have remained in obscurity if not for the public’s embrace of her.
When the COVID-19 press conferences began on March 7, there were no major updates or confirmed cases in Ohio, yet there was a briefing on a Saturday. Acton’s opening statement explained why. “We know, once again, that there’s a lot of fear, a lot of confusion out there, so we thought if we shared with you a little more about the testing process and what we know now, it might help your viewers, the people out there watching this, have a better understanding.”
DeWine, Acton, Husted and a rotating cast of other officials have gone to great lengths to explain the data and the guidance they hear from experts. They talk about why they’ve made their decisions and preview the ones to come. “I’m one of those people [who likes] to know the ground I’m standing on, and I sort of have assumed that other people feel that way too,” Acton tells me.
Her portion of the daily briefing often resembles a condensed college seminar— she has 11.7 million students now, DeWine says. The former professor teaches about virology, logarithmic spread or whatever subject may be relevant that day (to make a symbolic point about challenging times, she invoked the mythological writings of Joseph Campbell). She uses relatable, offbeat analogies, once comparing the state’s imperfect but progressively effective measures to stacked layers of Swiss cheese. At that first presser, she beamed and said how great it was to have a governor who “wants to go to all these wonderful places with you,” by which she meant indulging her fantastic geekiness in explaining the state’s testing capacity for communicable disease.
These are not the kinds of lessons the general public tends to consume with any sort of fervor, or even mild interest. But the stakes are so high and the uncertainty so great, her statewide audience is rapt. She has further endeared herself by offering personal details about her husband Eric—a middle school teacher in Bexley, where the couple lives—her six children, her rough childhood. Acton can be emotional. She laughs a lot—especially for a bureaucrat, even a green one—and isn’t afraid to show sadness and worry. She also provides rallying cries, as she did on March 22, a day when the state was shutting down nonessential businesses and her mood seemed bleak, though resolute: “I don’t want you to be afraid. I am not afraid. I am determined.”
As the press conferences grew in popularity—dubbed “Wine with DeWine” and “Snackin’ with Acton” sessions—someone in the governor’s office found Franko’s story about her troubled childhood and tweeted it out, where it fed the public’s appetite for all things Acton. Franko, now working for the nonprofit Report for America, told me on March 20 that he’d been receiving a handful of emails every day about his final story. Supporters have honored her with driveway chalk art, saintly renderings on snack bags, a Lego diorama and several locally produced T-shirt designs. In mid-March, the Dr. Amy Acton Fan Club popped up on Facebook. By early April, it had more than 125,000 members.
At the March 30 press conference, Acton responded to a fan letter from 9-year-old Ruby Owens of New Lebanon, part of which mentioned that the young girl was happy to see a woman in charge. In the age of the Women’s March, Acton’s presence has tapped into the same sentiments among others. For those who longed for Hillary Clinton or Elizabeth Warren to ascend to the presidency, Acton represents a fullthroated rebuke to the notion that a woman can’t lead as well as a man in times of crisis. Through the early phases of the worst pandemic in a century, she has been steady, graceful, humble and strong.
SuSan ShapIrO beCame frIenDS with Acton during a different sort of crisis. Hurricane Katrina had just ravaged New Orleans, and the two women volunteered to prep donated homes in Bexley for the survivors who would move to Central Ohio. Shapiro says Acton was one of the primary organizers. “Just from a personality standpoint, I think Amy is perhaps the most empathetic person I know,” says Steve Shapiro, Susan’s husband. “She really feels things very deeply.”
Acton’s friends and acquaintances describe someone who is dedicated to helping however she can. She was a founding board member of the Columbus Jewish Day School, and she served as the president of CISV Columbus, the local chapter of an allvolunteer international organization that brings kids together to share their cultures in summer camps called villages. Acton was in charge in 2010 when local members hosted their first monthlong camp, attended by 11-year-olds from a dozen countries. Lynn Vottero, the chapter’s co-founder, and Scott Jones, another CISV volunteer, both describe Acton as a calming presence, echoing the praise of her current role.
“You know that person you see on TV every day? That’s her. She is real, and she always has been,” says June Gutterman, the former CEO of Jewish Family Services, who met Acton through the day school.
Many people laud her authenticity and lack of political aspirations, but her world is increasingly political. After all, it’s her name on the orders that have upended public life, and though she and DeWine have been widely hailed, the chaos around the late cancellation of in-person voting for the March primary caused some consternation. The administration has also taken heat for failing to clarify the rules for abortion clinics during the ban on nonessential surgical procedures.
Kridler says Acton has focused on “the business of helping others.” That is her strong suit, and she’s particularly attuned to those in precarious situations, Kelleher says. Her concern for the most vulnerable motivates her pleas for compliance with Ohio’s restrictive measures, so resources can go to the elderly, immunocompromised patients and health care workers. She rooted her work in youth homelessness in that same concern, perhaps stemming from her tumultuous childhood looking out for herself and her younger brother as they struggled on the margins.
Her past has made her tough, says Gordon Hecker, whose children went to the day school alongside Acton’s. “There’s a fierceness there,” adds his wife, Donna. Acton’s life experience, caring nature and intellect have prepared her for the direst circumstances, says Susan Couden, a founding teacher at the school. “Sometimes you almost think a person is born to be in a place, you know? That all the sum total of all their experience makes them particularly capable in this important moment.”
Her days begin before the sun rises, between 4 and 5. Acton likes time to think and read, and she keeps a stack of books by her bedside. Once others are awake, she begins texting and calling, trying to squeeze in a few extra meetings. There’s a daily call with DeWine and others at 7:30 a.m., another at 8, and on it goes. Around 2 p.m., they go in front of the cameras for the daily update.
The day Acton and I spoke, DeWine ended the press conference with a video compilation of young girls pretending to be like her. (She says she had no idea it was coming and spent the duration of the clip bawling, relieved the cameras weren’t on her.) She’s honored to receive those reactions from people, though she finds it somewhat scary to have this much influence, and she attributes her popularity to a craving for transparency in society right now. In the press conferences, she often points out that she’s just the public face of thousands who are working around the clock statewide to control the spread.
DeWine praises the behind-the-scenes work the public doesn’t see—her long hours to stay on top of a crisis in constant flux and to run a health department with 113 local branches. “She carries that burden with her,” he says. “But she has remained cool, and she makes the decisions.”
The critical decisions to cancel civic life and close businesses were driven by the
—dr. amy acton
realization that, just like the 1918 influenza pandemic, the sooner the administration acted the more it would alter the virus’ trajectory. In the absence of a vaccine or cure, that meant throwing the economy into a deep freeze, which comes with its own set of “cascading consequences,” as Acton puts it. When unemployment numbers and poverty surge, they increase the potential for long-term public health problems, especially for those already on the fault lines. The viral response will need its own response.
As part of her public health system modernization, she’d already planned to invest in prevention related to social determinants—factors like employment and economic status. That effort will be even more critical now, and she has an unexpected opportunity to sell her vision. To spur the action—or lack thereof—needed to flatten the curve, she has hammered home that two-thirds of everyone’s health happens at the collective level: The 30-year gain in life expectancy in the last century is largely thanks to child labor laws, universal education, clean water, immunizations and other policies. That message dovetails with her long-term goals for the system.
Acton’s challenge is daunting: Ohio ranks 47th in public health funding, according to a study cited in a recent Columbus Dispatch article. But the governor is on her side, and if the state manages to avoid the outbreak’s full fury, Acton and her boss could earn political capital for their vision of a more preventative system.
But that’s a big if. Although Ohio appeared to be having success flattening the curve in early April, the world has been aware of the virus for all of five months, and even the experts are still learning. Acton often talks about tolerance for ambiguity—there are few answers and no guarantees. At the March 13 press conference, the day after she caused a stir by announcing her estimate that 100,000 Ohioans were already carrying the virus, she talked about the pitfalls of her work. “On the front end of a pandemic, you look a little bit like an alarmist. You look a little bit like a Chicken Little—the sky is falling. And on the back end of a pandemic, you didn’t do enough.”
tHe first saturday in April is idyllic—pale blue skies, sunshine, birds chirping. People are in their yards, the parks and the streets, desperate to get outside after days or weeks of isolation indoors. Some are still complying with the orders, some not.
The virus has laid bare our interconnectedness, and how difficult it is to sever those ties, even temporarily. Even as New York struggles under its weight, with reports of people dying in hospital hallways while waiting for ventilators, only to wait for space in overcrowded funeral homes. Even as the virus shows itself in Ohio, with confirmed cases racing above 5,500 and deaths climbing over 200 by the second week in April.
Acton has talked about the differences between Bergamo and Lodi in Italy, and St. Louis and Philadelphia in 1918, and the comparisons between the cities that acted early or late. Timing is everything, and she has concerns about fatigue. Starting restrictive measures too late can be catastrophic, but enacting them too early can exhaust the public will. At a press conference in early April, she talked about how there are still empty hospital beds, and we’re just waiting. “But my biggest worry is that, in the quiet before the storm, we forget how important every one of our choices is and how many lives we’re impacting by what we’re doing.”
When we spoke at the end of March, she mentioned a conversation she had with the people at Homage about the T-shirt they were making in her honor, which benefits Huckleberry House’s youth homeless support services. The shirt reads, “Not all heroes wear capes.” She said she told Homage, “I’ll come and go in this storyline, but there will be a million more stories.” Yet hers is at the center of the response, and people are embracing who she is, especially her concern for others. She said she has always felt like a catalyst for collective action—that is her urgent challenge now. Timing is everything. ◆
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