1 minute read
Dining | Drink
Changing of the Guard
Camelot Cellars undergoes a rebrand that mirrors the community it serves.
By EaRl Hopkins
When Renard Green took over as owner of Camelot Cellars in early March, he knew a change was fitting for the 15-year-old wine bar. Nestled in Olde Towne East, Camelot has now become a thriving urban château, a far cry from its previous look and feel.
Before Green acquired the local spot, Camelot was known for its deep-rooted Italian influence, winning 41 medals in national and international wine competitions. Through numerous ownership changes, Camelot largely took up the same décor and style, offering classic Italian dishes to pair with its stockpile of housemade wines and imported wines.
But the new owner wanted to veer away from the stylings of conventional wineries. Instead, Green swapped out charcuterie boards and chandelier-filled ceilings for vibrant lights, a blaring hip-hop and R&B playlist and a menu filled with Southern comfort favorites such as collard greens, gumbo, po’boys and sweet potato cake.
“People are looking for places that are culturally different and give them a chance to experience that culture,” Green says. “And I think that’s what we’ve tried to do with Camelot that’s very specific to us.”
Wines are still made on premises, favoring a list of fruit-forward and semi-sweet white wines and dry reds. In addition, Camelot offers a make-your-own-wine program that’s ideal for groups. And with the addition of a full-scale liquor bar, featuring tropical cocktails as well as domestic and craft beer options, the winery has become a more well-rounded late-night social space.
Patron Tyler Armstrong, who’s lived in the Olde Towne East area for seven years, says walking in the rebranded winery was a completely new experience. “It’s very innovative,” he says. “It’s a nice twist on a traditional winery, and it may be what more wineries look like in the future.”
Green, who’s worked as a business consultant for 13 years, took up the ownership role from previous owner Janine Aquino, whom he helped advise while she ran the long-standing winery.
He wanted to create an environment that reflected his interests and truly felt like a Black-owned business, prompting the official switch to Camelot Cellars Urban Winery.
He also recognized the potential for additional revenue streams. Green stepped in with a new mission in mind: making it four businesses in one. Instead of solely relying on in-store sales, the new owner has focused on distribution, high quality service and making the venue a backdrop for events. The winery now hosts Wine Down Wednesdays, Fish Fridays and live musical performances throughout the week. “There’s a lot that can be maximized, and
Renard Green, owner of Camelot Cellars
Clockwise from top left, Blacker the Better cocktail; crab po’boy; Camelot Cellars in Olde Towne East
Green says. “We’re still in the middle of a pandemic, let’s be clear. What you’re seeing from my business is only 40 percent of what we could do, so think about how that until I maximize all of it, then I’ll think we changes revenue.” aren’t making any money. We got a bunch of While the winery has received pushback different stuff we can do there,” Green says. from former customers, Marlon Platt and
But just weeks after he acquired the other area business owners have embraced long-standing bar from Aquino, the busi- Camelot’s new direction. Platt, co-owner ness faced restrictions due to the COVID-19 of Our Bar & Lounge, which sits across Oak outbreak, forcing Green to rely on carry- Street from the urban winery, met with out and wine sales for nearly five months. Green to help ease his transition into the When they weren’t taking in orders from historic neighborhood. After the two men Postmates, Green and his girlfriend made connected, they held a collaborative brunch deliveries with “two bottles of wine and event as a part of their growing partnersome hope” to keep the business afloat. ship. “I’m all about community support,”
Despite the uncertainty surrounding the Platt says. “The fact that their business is pandemic, the winery resumed dine-in on in the same neighborhood as mine, I kind Aug. 29. Green says the reopening speaks of already know the stuff that he’s going to his hustle, a mindset that’s desperately through with trying to grow and develop needed during these times. “In COVID, you the business as a Black business owner.” have to have 35 hustles,” he says. Platt says Camelot stands out because
Outside the effects of the coronavirus, it mirrors the people that frequent the Green says the big- area’s latest developgest challenge has been ments. The winery joins adjusting expectations. Camelot Cellars Urban Winery Our Bar and Lifestyle Camelot’s rebrand has 901 oak st., olde towne East, Café as the three Blackbeen met with criticism 614-441-8860, camelotcellars.com owned businesses on the from longtime patrons, corner of Oak and South many of whom still favor 18th streets. “It’s a natuthe more traditional setup. Coupled with ral synergy, so it’s truly like a Black-owned state-mandated limitations on occupancy, corner,” Platt says. access to funding and drops in revenue, the To strengthen the support of Blackwinery has yet to reach its true potential, owned businesses in the area, Green joined the Olde Towne East Neighborhood Association to ensure he can influence some of the potential changes being made, encouraging Platt and others to do the same. “I definitely want to have more of an intentional relationship, because we are a unique place,” Green says. “We need to strategize about how we can be more instrumental in some of the decisions that are happening.” ◆
let’s eat
our guide to the best restaurants in Columbus
Editor’s Note: While some Central ohio restaurants have reopened for dine-in service, others remain carryout only. our listings include restaurants that are open for dine-in, carryout, delivery or all three. this is not a comprehensive list. given the fluid nature of the CoVid-19 pandemic, please call restaurants to check hours and menu availability.
Addis Restaurant
Ethiopian | 3750 Cleveland Ave., North Side, 614-2698680. the injera here is about as good as it gets with traditional ethiopian dishes like tibs, kitfo and doro wot. LD $$
Akai Hana
Japanese | 1173 Old Henderson Rd., Northwest Side, 614-451-5411. this entertaining Japanese bento shop boasts some of the city’s best sushi and a wide range of Japanese and Korean entrées. LD $$
Alchemy Café
Juicery | 625 Parsons Ave., Schumacher Place, 614305-7551. this café is no protein shake shack. it’s simple, healthy food that’s familiar and whole, with recipes created by a registered dietitian. the menu is vegetarian-friendly and includes smoothies, toast, açai bowls, sandwiches, juice, and grab-and-go salads and snacks. BLD $
Alqueria Farmhouse Kitchen
Contemporary American | 247 King Ave., Campus, 614-824-5579. this rustic yet refined neighborhood restaurant is the work of two veteran chefs. expect fine cheeses and charcuterie to start, plus entrées like buttermilk fried chicken and walleye with heirloom grits. the bar offers several cocktails and takes care in selecting its craft beers and wines. LD $$$
Ambrose and Eve
Contemporary American | 716 S. High St., Brewery District, 614-725-2080. Catie randazzo runs this dinner party-inspired restaurant inside a former antique shop. the menu elevates comfort foods like liver and onions, chicken and dumplings, and fried chicken. D $$$
Ampersand Asian Supper Club
Asian | 940 N. High St., Short North, 614-928-3333. megan ada’s ampersand serves ramen, donburi rice bowls and more in new short north digs. this sister restaurant to Westerville’s asterisk supper Club also offers craft cocktails and a variety of sakes. LD $$
Amul India Restaurant
Indian | 5871 Sawmill Rd., Dublin, 614-734-1600. one of Central ohio’s most elegantly decorated indian restaurants serves a full menu of northern indian dishes from tikka masala to chicken sabaji, a favorite among indian patrons. LD $$
Arepazo
Latin American | 515 S. High St., Brewery District, 614-914-8878; 93 N. High St., Gahanna, 614-471-7296. owners Carlos and Carolina gutierrez serve tapas and entrées in a chic and casual atmosphere with a focus on Venezuelan and Colombian fare. LD $$
Asterisk Supper Club
American | 14 N. State St., Westerville, 614-776-4633. owner megan ada offers teatime and suppertime in a bibliophile’s dream atmosphere. Craft cocktails are served at a handsome bar, while the eclectic menu leans on comfort foods like deviled eggs, meatloaf and chicken pot pie. LD $$
Bake Me Happy
Café & Bakery | 106 E. Moler St., Merion Village, 614477-3642. this 100-percent gluten-free coffee shop and retail bakery is an extension of bake me happy’s growing wholesale business. the cheerful café offers coffee from local roasters, nostalgic treats and some savory offerings. BL $
Bamboo Thai Kitchen
Thai | 774 Bethel Rd., Northwest Side, 614-326-1950. this bright spot in a drab strip mall offers well-executed thai staples like som tum (green papaya salad), flavorful green and red curries and pad thai, plus some Vietnamese, Korean and Chinese dishes. LD $$
Bangkok Grocery & Restaurant
Thai | 3277 Refugee Rd., East Side, 614-231-8787. a family-owned grocery and eatery specializing in authentic thai fare for more than 30 years. go for some of the city’s best pad thai, tom yum soup, nam tok and thai curries. LD $
Barcelona Restaurant & Bar
Spanish | 263 E. Whittier St., German Village, 614-4433699. longstanding barcelona is a classic for approachable spanish tapas and other palate-expanding fare with an american influence. the patio is one of the most charming in the city. BRLD $$$
Belle’s Bread
Bakery | 1168 Kenny Centre Mall, Upper Arlington, 614-451-7110. tucked away in the same complex as akai hana, this French-inspired Japanese bakery is known for its outstanding pastries, cakes and treats. BL $
Bexley Pizza Plus
Pizza | 2651 E. Main St., Bexley, 614-237-3305. With 22 specialty pizzas and 41 toppings, the options are endless at this bexley pizzeria. LD $
Borgata Pizza Café
Italian | 5701 Parkville St., North Side, 614-891-2345; 2285 W. Dublin-Granville Rd., Northwest Side, 614396-8758. a neighborhood italian eatery specializing in new york-style pizza, scratch-made pastas, calzones and panini. try the ricotta cavatelli with marinara or spicy stuffed peppers—tender Cubanelle peppers with marinara and gooey mozzarella cheese. LD $$
Brassica
Mediterranean/Middle Eastern | 2212 E. Main St., Bexley, 614-929-9990; 680 N. High St., Short North, 614-867-5885; 1442 W. Lane Ave., Upper Arlington, 614-929-9997. From the owners of northstar Café comes this build-it-yourself eatery with a focus on fresh vegetables and proteins spiked with bold middle eastern and mediterranean spices. LD $$
Buckeye Donuts
Bakery | 1998 N. High St., Campus, 614-2913923. a Campus legend since 1969, buckeye donuts is open 24 hours to satisfy cravings for classic doughnuts and diner-style cuisine at all hours of the day. BLD $
Buckeye Pho
Vietnamese | 761 Bethel Rd., Northwest Side, 614-4512828. Venture to this strip mall eatery for high-quality Vietnamese fare with modern décor. LD $
Cap City Fine Diner & Bar
American | 6644 Riverside Dr., Dublin, 614-8897865; 1301 Stoneridge Dr., Gahanna, 614-478-9999; 1299 Olentangy River Rd., Fifth by Northwest, 614291-3663. Cameron mitchell’s popular, stylish diner serves retro fare with an upscale twist. think american cuisine, like meatloaf, chili dogs, pork chops and homemade pies and desserts. BRLD $$
Chapman’s Eat Market
Contemporary American | 739 S. Third St., German Village, 614-444-0917. Chef bJ lieberman’s debut on the local dining scene fills the original home of max & erma’s in german Village. the newly renovated space is fun and sophisticated, sporting a palette
Let’s Eat comprises Columbus Monthly editors’ picks and is updated monthly based on available space. if you notice an error, please email eedwards@columbusmonthly.com.
$$$$ average entrée $26 and higher $$$ average entrée $16–$25 $$ average entrée $11–$15 $ average entrée under $10 - Valet available - Kitchen open late outdoor Patio seating b breakfast br brunch l lunch d dinner Critics’ Choice NEW! restaurant has opened within the last few months.
of rose pink, green and bold wallpapers. Diners can expect a chef-driven menu with options like lamb shank barbacoa, karaage chicken sando, fresh pasta and homemade ice cream. D $$$
NEW! Coastal Local Seafood
Seafood | 6750 Longshore St., Dublin, 614-6838782; 59 Spruce St., Short North, 614-929-5701. In addition to fresh seafood for cooking at home, this north market fishmonger offers lobster rolls, chowder, lobster poutine and more. LD $$
The Crafty Pint
Gastropub | 2234 W. Dublin-Granville Rd., Northwest Side, 614-468-1675. the Crafty Pint is a gastropub offering rustic American food, craft beers (with a heavy emphasis on local brews), creative cocktails and a large outdoor patio. It’s all wrapped in a playful setting where beer samplers are built from old license plates and checks are delivered inside Dr. seuss books. LD $$
Cravings Café
Soup & Sandwiches | 114 N. Front St., Downtown, 614670–4439. this café from matt and lindsey tewanger offers sandwiches made with locally sourced ingredients, house-baked brioche and roasted meats. Also featuring small-batch coffee and breakfast pastries. BL $
Dosa Corner
Indian | 1077 Old Henderson Rd., Upper Arlington, 614-459-5515. A family-owned, southern Indian “fast food” spot that specializes in thin, pancake-like dosas made with rice and lentil flour batter with a choice of vegetarian fillings. LD $
Due Amici
Italian | 67 E. Gay St., Downtown, 614-224-9373. Exposed brick walls and modern black and white furniture give this Downtown Italian eatery an upscale feel. BRLD $$
The Eagle
Southern | 790 N. High St., Short North, 614-745-3397. this southern-style restaurant from the Cincinnatibased owners of bakersfield features Amish fried chicken, spoonbread, craft beers and a large patio along high street. LD $
Flip Side
Burgers | 3945 Easton Station, Easton, 614-472-3547. this burger and shake joint with a heavy emphasis on local ingredients (burgers are made with ohio-raised, grass-fed beef) serves great cocktails and boozy milkshakes, plus craft beers. LD $
Forno Kitchen + Bar
Italian | 721 N. High St., Short North, 614-469-0053. located in a historic building in the short north, this restaurant features pizza, sandwiches and shareable appetizers, plus house-made cocktails. BRLD $$
Fox in the Snow Café
Coffee & Desserts | 210 Thurman Ave., German Village; 1031 N. Fourth St., Italian Village; 160 W. Main St., New Albany. A bakery and coffee shop offering pastries made in-house daily and coffee from tandem Coffee Roasters. BL $
Fukuryu Ramen
Japanese | 4540 Bridge Park Ave., Dublin, 614-553-7392; 1600 W. Lane Ave., Upper Arlington, 614-929-5910. Jeff tsao, whose family owned the Kahiki supper Club, brings his melbourne, Australia, ramen shop stateside. It’s quick, modern, bustling and adds a little rock ’n’ roll to traditional Japanese fare. the signature tonkotsu and Red Dragon ramens are standouts. LD $$
G. Michael’s Bistro & Bar
Low Country | 595 S. Third St., German Village, 614-464-0575. this historic German Village eatery promises fine dining with a low country influence. Expect bold flavors in dishes layered with components and exceptional sauces. Preparations and ingredients change with the seasons. D $$$
Gallo’s Tap Room
Pub Grub | 5019 Olentangy River Rd., Northwest Side, 614-457-2394; 240 N. Liberty St., Powell, 614-396-7309. A dark, modern sports bar brimming with top-notch beers and an updated pub grub menu featuring burgers, wings and pizza. LD $
Geordie’s Restaurant
Irish & British Pubs | 1586 S. High St., Merion Village, 614-674-6004. Chef-owner Glen hall-Jones brings the flavors of his native northeast England to Columbus. At dinner, pair a pint with Cornish pasties or the fish and chips. Weekends bring brunch, featuring a full English breakfast, and newcastle united on the tV. BRD $$
Giuseppe’s Ritrovo
Italian | 2268 E. Main St., Bexley, 614-235-4300.this unfussy bexley restaurant is the place to go for classic Italian pasta dishes, such as Gamberi Diavola and Fettucine Calabrese. Italy plays just as big a role behind the bar with a lengthy wine list, a solid amaro selection and outstanding craft cocktails. LD $$
The Good Kitchen 614
American | 1485 Sunbury Rd., Northeast Columbus, 614-258-4663. A carryout-only spot serving affordable soul food classics like smothered pork chops, fried fish (whiting, perch or tilapia), collard greens and more. LD $
Goodale Station
Contemporary American | 77 E. Nationwide Blvd., Downtown, 614-227-9400. topping Downtown’s new Canopy by hilton hotel is this bar and restaurant led by executive chef tripp mauldin. boasting a handsome rooftop patio, the restaurant’s soaring city views are complemented by a large bar, high-end cocktails and dishes that hint at the chef’s southern roots. D $$$
GoreMade Pizza
Pizza | 936 N. Fourth St., Italian Village, 614-725-2115. It’s all about the pizza here at nick Gore’s modest spot. thin-crust pies are wood-fired in an oven imported from Italy, and seasonal toppings are locally sourced. Enjoy solid cocktails and salads while you wait. D $$$
Harvest Bar + Kitchen
American | 940 S. Front St., Brewery District, 614-9477950; 2885 N. High St., Clintonville, 614-947-7133. From the owners of harvest Pizzeria, these locations offer the same wood-kissed pies plus salads, sandwiches, burgers and more. LD $$
Harvest Pizzeria
Pizza | 2376 E. Main St., Bexley, 614-824-4081; 45 N. High St., Dublin, 614-726-9919. some of the best woodfired pies in Central ohio are served at this pizzeria owned by Grow Restaurants. LD $$
Hong Kong House
Chinese | 1831 Henderson Rd., Upper Arlington, 614538-9288. Don’t let the name fool you. hong Kong house actually serves some of the most authentic sichuan fare in town. the roomy restaurant now offers dim sum. LD $$
Hoof Hearted Brewery and Kitchen
Brewpub | 850 N. Fourth St., Italian Village, 614-4014033. this collaboration between A&R Creative (the Crest, market Italian Village) and popular marengo-based brewery hoof hearted represents all the good things happening in Columbus right now: lots of craft beer and locally sourced food in a cool, modern space. BRLD $$
Hot Chicken Takeover
Southern | 4203 N. High St., Clintonville, 614-754-1151; 4198 Worth Ave., Easton, 614-532-7435; 59 Spruce St., Short North, 614-800-4538. head fryer/owner Joe Deloss jumped on the nashville hot chicken trend and hasn’t looked back. hCt does an excellent impression of Prince’s, the nashville original—the fried chicken is juicy, super spicy (unless you ask them to hold the heat) and sits on a bed of white bread. LD $$
Huong Vietnamese Restaurant
Vietnamese | 1270 Morse Rd., North Side, 614-8250303. housed in a northland-area strip mall, this bright and simply decorated restaurant turns out great Vietnamese fare with pho, bun nem nuong and Asian-style barbecue pork. LD $
Indian Oven
Indian | 427 E. Main St., Downtown, 614-220-9390. Friendly and chic eatery serving northern Indian and bengali meals. the menu includes palak paneer, tandoori chicken, biryani and roasted lamb shank. LD $$
Jiu Thai Asian Café
Chinese | 787 Bethel Rd., Northwest Side, 614-7325939. located in the olentangy Plaza shopping center, this restaurant specializes in flavorful, authentic cuisine from northern China. Go for the tofu skewers, lamb dumplings and handmade noodles in generous portions at low prices. LD $
Jonys Sushi
Japanese | 195 Thurman Ave., German Village, 614-7064979. the owners of south Village Grille opened this takeout sushi shop right next door. the colorful shop offers appetizers, nigiri, sashimi, classic sushi rolls and a variety of interesting specialty rolls. LD $$$
Kabob Shack
Afghan | 4568 Cemetery Rd., Hilliard, 614-742-7054. owner sakeena bary’s casual eatery offers a cuisine rarely found in Central ohio. Kabob shack’s menu includes mantu (Afghan dumplings), lamb chops, kofta kebab, daal, samosas, falooda (an Afghan dessert) and more. LD $$
Katalina’s
Soup & Sandwiches | 3481 N. High St., Clintonville, 614-689-8896; 1105 Pennsylvania Ave., Harrison West, 614-294-2233. Expect an eclectic menu of latinleaning items at this café known for its chalkboard walls, scratch-made salads and sandwiches and killer patio in the warmer months. BLD $
Kirin Noodle Bar
Asian | 4227 N. High St., Clintonville, 614-867-5356. A solid spot for dim sum and authentic noodle dishes crafted with care. Don’t miss the xiaolongbao, dan dan noodles and sweet-and-sour-pork rib noodle soup. LD $
La Chatelaine French Bakery & Bistro
French/Bakery | 65 W. Bridge St., Dublin, 614-763-7151; 1550 W. Lane Ave., Upper Arlington, 614-488-1911; 627 High St., Worthington, 614-848-6711. handcrafted woodwork and a crackling fireplace lend the feeling of a French castle to this bakery, bistro and wine bar with equally inspired dishes that range from beef bourguignon to croissants. BLD $$
La Super Torta
Mexican | 721 Georgesville Rd., West Side, 614-9289079. A strip-mall find that specializes in outstanding (and sizable) tortas. the no-frills eatery also serves tacos, gorditas and other authentic mexican eats. BLD $
La Tavola
Italian | 1664 W. First Ave., Grandview, 614-914-5455. Chef Rick lopez owns this popular old World Italian restaurant in Grandview. Dotted with green and yellow accents, the setting is open and welcoming. the food is simple and rustic Italian with pizzas, housemade breads and pastas. D $$$
Lalibela
Ethiopian | 1111 S. Hamilton Rd., Whitehall, 614-2355355. one of the best places for Ethiopian food in the city is lalibela, a strip-mall restaurant that’s modest on the outside and welcoming on the inside. Request to be seated at a mesob, a colorful woven communal table, and start off with some Ethiopian beer or honey wine. LD $
Lávash Café
Middle Eastern | 2985 N. High St., Clintonville, 614263-7777. this quick-service middle Eastern eatery serves a mix of mediterranean food, coffee and desserts. LD $$
Los Guachos Taqueria
Mexican | 7370 Sawmill Rd., Dublin, 614-726-9185; 1376 Cherry Bottom Rd., Gahanna, 614-471-4717; 5221 Godown Rd., Northwest Side, 614-538-0211. the brick-and-mortar version of the popular taco truck (461 Commerce sq., West side) offers all the truck favorites—authentic tacos, tortas and gringas—and, of course, the city’s best al pastor. LD $
The Lox Bagel Shop
Café & Bakery | 772 N. High St., Short North, 614824-4005. Kevin Crowley’s cute short north shop offers handmade bagels that are boiled and then baked over a live fire. the shop’s namesake sandwich and pastrami sandwich are standouts. BL $
Meshikou Ramen
Japanese | 1506 Bethel Rd., Northwest Side, 614457-1689. meshikou is an open-kitchen ramen shop focusing on authentic preparations of noodle bowls, as well as a few Japanese comfort-food starters. Coowner mike shek learned the ramen craft under a nyC chef—recipes to which shek has added his own touch for Central ohio palates. LD $$
Mi Li Café
Vietnamese | 5858 Emporium Sq., North Side, 614899-9202. the tucked-away north side eatery is famous for its authentic, made-from-scratch banh mi, the first and one of the only remaining items from the original menu. It’s since expanded, offering a heartier list of Vietnamese classics. LD $
Min Ga Korean Restaurant
Korean | 800 Bethel Rd., Northwest Side, 614-4577331. this friendly strip-mall spot serves Korean
Mitchell’s Ocean Club
Seafood | 4002 Easton Station, Easton, 614-416-2582. With wood-paneled décor, live piano music and martinis shaken tableside, the ocean Club evokes the Rat Pack era. on the menu, expect high-end seafood like yellowfin tuna, teriyaki salmon and jumbo lump crab cakes. D $$$$
Momo Ghar
Nepalese/Tibetan | 1265 Morse Rd., North Side, 614749-2901; 59 Spruce St., Short North, 614-495-6666. Phuntso lama’s modest lunch counters inside north market and saraga International Grocery specialize in momos, the handmade dumplings that she and her crew make by the hundreds, weekly. no trip is complete without the best-seller, jhol momo. LD $
Natalie’s Music Hall & Kitchen
Contemporary American | 945 King Ave., Grandview, 614-436-2625. this exciting addition to Grandview is the sister restaurant/music venue to natalie’s in Worthington. the dining room offers pizzas and a chef-driven menu complemented by excellent cocktails. live music events are scheduled through the fall on natalie’s outdoor pavilion. D $$$
NE Chinese Restaurant
Chinese | 2620 N. High St., Old North, 614-725-0880. Authentic dishes from the Dongbei region of China are the specialty at this unfussy old north spot. Go for the Cumin Potato, spicy twice-Cooked Fish or any of the hot pots. LD $$
Paulie Gee’s Short North
Pizza | 1195 N. High St., Short North, 614-808-0112. A brooklyn-based pizzeria with neapolitan-style pies and craft beer. offers traditional and eclectic pizza toppings with names like the hog Pit brisket, the Greenpointer and the Ricotta be Kiddin’ me. D $$$
Pistacia Vera
Café & Bakery | 541 S. Third St., German Village, 614-220-9070. the crème de la crème of Columbus dessert shops, with macarons, Pistachio mascarpone Dacquoise torte and Chocolate bombe. BL $
Plank’s Café & Pizzeria
Pizza | 743 Parsons Ave., South Side, 614-4457221. Plank’s bakes some of the finest pies in the city with a notoriously sweet sauce and thin crust. BLD $
Poong Mei Asian Bistro
Asian | 4720 Reed Rd., Upper Arlington, 614-273-9998. this popular spot boasts a sprawling menu showcasing Chinese, Korean, Japanese and Korean-Chinese dishes, plus plenty of sushi and soju to choose from. Check out the fresh noodle dishes and spicy beef hot pot. LD $$
Portia’s Café
Vegan | 4428 Indianola Ave., Clintonville, 614-9283252. this Clintonville café serves only vegan and gluten-free options with an emphasis on raw foods. the menu includes dips like hummus and guacamole, falafel, soups, salads, wraps, smoothies and veganfriendly Cheezecake. BRLD $
Ranchero Kitchen
Latin American | 984 Morse Rd., North Side, 614985-0083. Previously located in saraga International Grocery, this salvadoran eatery specializes in pupusas, thick tortillas stuffed with savory fillings. LD $
Ray Ray’s Hog Pit
Barbecue | 424 W. Town St., Franklinton, 614-4049742; 2619 High St., Old North, 614-753-1191; 41 Depot St., Powell, 614-441-1065; 5755 Maxtown Rd., Westerville, 614-329-6654. James Anderson’s barbecue truck, parked in the Ace of Cups lot, serves up top-notch eats from the smoker. Anderson is now up to four locations. Expect barbecue fare, with ribs, pulled pork and beef brisket sandwiches, plus sides. LD $
Rooh
Indian | 685 N. High St., Short North, 614-972-8678. A san Francisco import serving high-end, “progressive Indian” fare. Go for the inventive cocktails, buzzy atmosphere and conversation-stoking small plates. D $$$
The Rossi Kitchen & Bar
American | 895 N. High St., Short North, 614-5250624. A popular short north hot spot, diners flock here for inventive bar food (think gourmet pizza, lamb lollipops and grilled Caesar salad) in a new-meets-old atmosphere straight out of manhattan. D $$
Sassafras Bakery
Café & Bakery | 657 High St., Worthington, 614-781-9705. owner A.J. Perry got her start at the olde Worthington summer Farmers market and now serves home-cooked desserts (grab a slice of apple pie), pastries, quiche and soup using locally sourced ingredients in her Worthington shop. BBRLD $
Tiger + Lily Bistro
Asian | 19 E. Gay St., Downtown, 614-928-9989. this inviting Downtown eatery features modern takes on Pan-Asian cuisine, such as lemongrass chicken or teriyaki tofu in a rice or salad bowl, chicken brothbased ramen, bubble milk teas and seasonal crêpe cakes. BRLD $
Veritas
Contemporary American | 11 W. Gay St., Downtown, 614-745-3864. Chef Josh Dalton’s modern, tasting-menu-style restaurant celebrates the art and science of cooking while offering one of the finest dining experiences in town. located in the Citizens building at Gay and high streets, Veritas prides itself on excellent service and exhilarating cocktail and wine lists. D $$$$
The Whitney House
American | 666 High St., Worthington, 614-396-7846. Casual enough for the whole family yet upscale enough for date night, the sleek Whitney house takes familiar American classics up a notch. the Daily Plates specials rise above the standard fare, and a solid cocktail and wine list make this olde Worthington spot a good stop any night of the week. BRLD $$$
Wolf’s Ridge Brewing
Contemporary American | 215 N. Fourth St., Downtown, 614-429-3936. French- and Californiacuisine-inspired Wolf’s Ridge is a truly delightful reflection of how we enjoy fine dining today—a happy marriage of high-end small plates, pints of housecrafted beer and craft cocktails. BRLD $$$
Woodhouse Vegan Café
American | 851 N. Fourth St., Italian Village, 614-3902410. the Woodhouse family offers plant-based comfort food at this cute brick house in Italian Village. highlights include the Caesar salad, loaded nachos and West African peanut stew. D $$
she probably deserved.
But she made the most
of every role,
including the one
she played in real life:
a woman defined by love.
BEVERLY D’ANGELO HAS NO REGRETS
42 COLUMBUS MONTHLY DECEMBER 2020 BY PETER TONGUETTE
PHOTO: MANFRED BAUMANN
DECEMBER 2020 COLUMBUS MONTHLY 43
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Love affairs kept finding her. In 1986, she embarked on a romance with Irish director Neil Jordan (“The Crying Game”), who, two years later, cast her in the comedy “High Spirits.” Then he wrote a movie for her, 1991’s “The Miracle,” in which she finally had the sort of meaty, juicy, showy, tailored-to-her part her supporters felt was long overdue. She played a woman who travels to an Irish town and bewitches a young local lad … to whom she happens to be related. A Harvey Weinsteinled Miramax bought the film, but according to Peter Biskind’s book “Down and Dirty Pictures,” Jordan thought that Weinstein “dumped” it during release. Besides, D’Angelo feels that her performance was off because her romance with Jordan had ended before shooting began.
In 1990, she met British production designer Anton Furst, famous for designing the blasted Vietnamese city Hue in Stanley Kubrick’s “Full Metal Jacket” and gothic Gotham City in Tim Burton’s “Batman.” “I fell in love with Anton,” she says, but then he called the relationship off. When D’Angelo was in Texas making a TV miniseries about a black widow serial killer, Furst contacted her again, but the call went badly. The following week, D’Angelo’s best friend, Carrie Fisher, rang to say that Furst had thrown himself off a building and died. She was still shooting the miniseries. “I had to do that with cue cards,” she says.
Fisher and D’Angelo bonded over their sometimes-fraught personal lives, says Todd Fisher, Carrie’s brother and also D’Angelo’s friend. “Carrie at times would be off balance from something, and Beverly would be in balance at that moment,” Fisher says. “Other times, the other way around. They had a really beautiful sort of way of helping each other always.” Together, his sister and D’Angelo, he says, were “almost like too much flammable material in one space.”
“I thought that I loved all of these people,” D’Angelo says of her relationships with men. “I did not know what love was until I had kids.” That came in 2001, when, with her then-partner Al Pacino, she had twins Anton and Olivia, soon to turn 20. She is no longer with Pacino. “I observed her many times handling Al,” says Todd Fisher. “He was way out of his league—I mean, literally, she was just too much to handle.” But D’Angelo has called Pacino a close friend and described the four of them as a family unit. She thinks of herself and her son as the more cerebral of the bunch, while Pacino and their daughter “kind of navigate through an emotional force field.”
Sometime in the late 1990s, the industry started to wise up to D’Angelo’s combustible abilities. She began getting better parts—as the mother of a neo-Nazi in the 1998 drama “American History X” or as the super-agent in the HBO series Entourage. “She’s still got that same kind of wide-eyed innocence from where I first saw her, which was ‘Vacation’ when I was a kid, but she’s also got that tough side that really worked,” says Entourage creator Doug Ellin.
D’Angelo is sanguine about her place in Hollywood. She is familiar with that famous Pauline Kael quote but doesn’t sound sorry about declining to play a game she never signed up for. “Now it’s like, if you’re an actress, you have a perfume line, you have a clothing line,” she says. “If you don’t do that, and you don’t have social media and you don’t do all of that business-oriented part of show business, you’re not responsible.” But D’Angelo wanted to be footloose and fancy-free.
She’s not the retiring type, though. Unlike her peer Debra Winger, who became elusive and mythologized when plum parts dried up, D’Angelo has kept working, even in projects she knows are, at best, so-so. Not everything can be “Coal Miner’s Daughter.”
“My real skill was figuring out how to take a bad script and a nothing role and turn it into something that was meaningful to me,” she says.
Besides, her creativity doesn’t necessarily depend on others. She has written an unpublished novel called “Once Upon a Nanny.” “That was about a woman who gives birth to twins at 49, and at 52, she’s a single mother traversing a crazy landscape,” she says. Publishers, alert to autobiographical resonances, offered to bring it out if she wrote it in the first-person. “Nope—see you later,” came the answer. Now ready for something like a memoir, she hopes that the world will be sufficiently back to normal by 2022 to mount her onewoman show, which she describes as an “embodied memoir” with archival videos and live music. She says she might try it out first in Columbus. D uring our first call, D’Angelo tells me she sees the lockdown as a chance to simplify her life. “The first thing I did was get a spaghetti machine,” she says. “You make the dough and you put it through and make the strands. It was like, ‘Oh my God, we’re locked down? Well, better get back to basics.’ What are my basics? It’s homemade—homemade.”
It turns out “homemade” pretty much describes her, too. “You know what they say: You can either go all around the world to learn everything, or you can stay in one place and you’ll learn everything,” she says. “I’ve kind of done a combo. … The foundation of the community that I was a part of is really the only reason that I have happiness in my life.”
Not that being the free spirit of the family has been easy. D’Angelo’s mother recognized early on that her daughter was going to do as she pleased. “She made her own way literally, living in Canada with occasional visits with us,” Priscilla said in The Dispatch in 1976, reflecting on her daughter’s Broadway debut in “Rockabye Hamlet.” “She has, admirably, tended to the specifics of her career, working with her friends and associates of like mind and inclination.”
The patrician Priscilla’s high-minded turn of phrase (“friends and associates of like mind and inclination”) contrasts sharply with her daughter’s uninhibited style. Yet, rounding the bend toward 70, D’Angelo speaks with honest appreciation of her mother’s life and choices, as well as the buttoned-up town that made her. “I come from a place where honesty matters,” she says. “If you’re a bad person, you don’t get business.” She attends high school reunions, noting that most of her class married each other.
“I ran away from there, and even badmouthed it—it was like part of my rap,” she says. “But that foundation that I got there was responsible for any rock-solidness that I have.”
After our marathon two hours on the phone, we exchange some more emails and then, in September, we do another half-hour. Like so many others in the movie business, she sounds antsy to get to work. She’s about to act in two new projects. I cram in some random questions, but soon our time is up. She is, as ever, on the move.
She repeats what I now know is her mantra: “My life has been a series of relationships guided by love. Everything I’ve done is because I’ve loved someone. I gotta go.”
And we hang up—and D’Angelo is on to yet another new chapter. ◆
WHEN THE KILLINGS STOPPED
What a short-lived experiment on the South Side of Columbus can teach a city struggling with gun violence
By Theodore Decker
48 COLUMBUS MONTHLY DECEMBER 2020 FOR THIS MARCH, they will head west, to the spot where a bullet ended the life of Jaleel Carter-Tate five days earlier.
It is Sunday, Oct. 4, and about 25 people have gathered at the Family Missionary Baptist Church on Oakwood Avenue, the starting point for this monthly plea for peace. A gusty storm front races toward Columbus from western Ohio, but no one talks of canceling the event, the 132nd march against gun violence held by a grassroots collective known as Ministries 4 Movement. Today marks 11 years of marching, through 44 seasons, and a discouraging weather forecast isn’t about to end the streak.
Carter-Tate was 25 years old when he died on the South Side on Sept. 29, in the 800 block of East Whittier Avenue. Columbus police were called before 10 p.m. and found him bleeding from a gunshot wound. He died on the scene, becoming the 116th victim of homicide in what is shaping up to be the bloodiest year on record in Ohio’s capital city.
The marchers stop at the spot where Carter-Tate fell. A nearby street sign has become a roadside memorial. Mylar balloons are tied in a tangle to the post, and crowded below is a cluster of stuffed animals. At first blush, they seem like an odd tribute to a man in his 20s, seated as they are among an assortment of liquor bottles. But teddy bears are common at memorials marking deaths that are as untimely as they are violent. They are futile bids to turn back the clock.
A few speakers step forward. One man says a dispute over a sports bet may have caused Carter-Tate’s death. If true, it is in keeping with the trend that most of these killings are not the result of the drug trade, as many would have you believe. They inevitably arise from what criminologists call “interpersonal disputes,” a catchall term for an array of petty beefs and more serious grievances that in some instances fester for years before exploding on the streets. A bumped arm in a packed nightclub leads to a spilled drink, then to words, and finally gunfire. Trash talk on social media inflames tensions between rival teens. A young boy sees his older brother killed and waits until he is grown, sometimes for years, to impose street justice on a shooter who avoided arrest.
But what happens if an outsider steps into these volatile situations, someone from the neighborhood with street cred, good intentions and impeccable timing? Vulnerable young people might regain control of their emotions, stopping themselves from acting on violent impulses. The people involved in this march can attest to the power of these interventions because, well, they’ve done them. Nearly a decade ago, they launched a short-lived pilot program called CeaseFire Columbus that coincided with a dramatic drop in violence in a 40-block section of the South Side.
This group was within striking distance of a strategy that, if it had been embraced by
PHOTO: TIM JOHNSON
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DECEMBER 2020 COLUMBUS MONTHLY 49
According to Recreation and Parks Department annual reports, APPS defused about 400 potentially violent incidents throughout the city between 2016 and 2018.
Ginther, then a City Councilmember and chairman of the Safety Committee, did not support the CeaseFire proposal at the time because he thought APPS was a better fit. “Through APPS, the city was able to offer social programming and violence intervention in cooperation with nonprofits,” Robin Davis, Ginther’s director of media relations, says in a prepared statement. “The only piece we didn’t have at that time was the ‘call in,’ where a select group of violent offenders who are likely to continue down that path would be offered social services and workforce development to change their likely trajectory. We have since added this through our Safe Neighborhood initiative.”
Still, the local CeaseFire group persisted, seeking private donors and federal grants to get off the ground. Without the endorsement of city leaders, they never got enough of either to establish their full vision. They carried on anyway—and got results. Between 2011 and 2014, in their core 40-block area in the 43206 ZIP code, shootings dropped by 76 percent. All of 2011 and 2012 passed without a gun-related homicide within those boundaries. In the preceding two years, four gun homicides occurred in the neighborhood, with three more recorded just outside it. This new run of peace was remarkable, considering the neighborhood’s previously violent history. Between 2007 and 2009, incidents of gun violence in the quietest city police precinct occurred at a rate of 13.5 per 10,000 people, Wilkinson found. In the precinct that included CeaseFire’s core neighborhood, gun violence incidents during the same time period were reported at a rate of 200.5 per 10,000 people.
the front arrives, and the rain starts, big heavy drops that fast become a downpour. Pastor LaMarr ducks under the umbrella of a fellow marcher. Those without cover will be soaked from head to toe by the time they return to the church, but they take the rain in stride and resume the Am I right or wrong? You’re right! Is my faith still strong? Still strong!
Before the march, Wilkinson set up several outdoor tables filled with produce grown by gardening program participants. The tables are heaped with bags of jalapeños, tomatoes, squash and honeydew melon. She urges marchers to take what they want; any donations go to the family of the boy she’d mentioned during the march. But in the deluge, most run straight for their cars, and Wilkinson is left to load much of the produce into her Nissan Leaf hatchback. At the same time, Fournier Alsaada’s car battery is dead, stranding her in the church lot. Wilkinson hops into Fournier Asaada’s car and the pair catch up while Ahad runs home for jumper cables.
All seem unfazed by an afternoon gone slightly awry. When you are out to save lives, particularly young ones, the setbacks can be heartbreaking. With stakes that high, a dead car battery and a cold, driving rain barely register as inconveniences.
Violence intervention takes 24/7 dedication, fearlessness and honesty. If Ahad tells a young man to call him before doing anything rash, he has to answer when that call comes in at 2 a.m. If LaMarr promises to be there for a young man’s court appearance, he had better show up or he will lose that young man’s trust. “People can be at their breaking point at any moment,” LaMarr says.
Derrick Russell, onetime leader of the Short North Posse, spent 13 years in prison for his role in the notoriously violent gang. When he was locked up, he says he wrote to about 50 pastors looking for guidance. Just one wrote back. “That was Pastor LaMarr,” he says.
Russell now works with Ministries 4 Movement and on his own initiatives to mentor city youth. “People see our sincerity,” LaMarr says. “The main thing is that we continue to do it. We continue to support people not just when they’re ‘right’ to help them get better, but when they’re ‘wrong’ to help them get right.”
“You gotta go deep,” Ahad says. “You can’t just go out on the corner and hold a cookout.” Many well-meaning intervention efforts “don’t go deep enough,” he says. “They don’t know them guys, the real shooters.”
Ahad has theories why the city ignored the fledgling Columbus CeaseFire, which ended in 2014 when its cobbled-together funding dried up. He knows that the involvement of Hill, the former gang leader, made some public safety officials uneasy and others angry. He, LaMarr and Hill also painstakingly documented and reported to city officials the corruption of a particularly notorious member of the police gang unit who is no longer with the division. Asked specifically about Ahad’s suspicions, Davis says Ginther was unaware of either issue at the time and that neither factored in his decisions.
Whatever the reasons, Ahad says, “The city people shied away from us. It was like we were hands-off.”
Wilkinson hopes city leaders embrace Kennedy’s approach, where law enforcement plays an active and more traditional role than in the Chicago model that she and the others championed. “There is still very strong control over the message of public safety in the city,” she says. “The Kennedy model is more palatable to a place like Columbus.”
And it can work if properly implemented and funded. But fickle political winds, changes in police administrations and dwindling financial support have eroded progress in cities that have seen gains using both Kennedy’s and Slutkin’s models.
Dr. Jonathan Groner, medical director of the Center for Pediatric Trauma Research at Nationwide Children’s Hospital, is optimistic that the city will shift from a piecemeal approach to a more comprehensive plan. “I do worry about funding,” he says. “There’s no Pelotonia for firearm injuries, [and] the community that is most affected is the least empowered.”
they begin the 133rd marCh by heading east. It is early November, the Sunday before Election Day. There are twice as many marchers today as in the previous month, and they are led by a teen drum corps instead of Hopkins’ call-and-response. The marchers walk in pairs along the sidewalks and eventually turn south to Whittier. Since the October march and prayer at CarterTate’s street memorial, the homicide count in Columbus has risen to 140, and the young man’s murder remains unsolved.
“It’s so big, it gets to be disheartening,” Ahad acknowledges. “There’s just so much to this.” But he pushes aside those darker thoughts whenever they intrude.
Today it is too cold for rain; the first snowflakes of the fall fly around the marchers. Back at the church, they keep things short, though not because of the weather. Many are headed to the Franklin County Board of Elections before it closes at 5 p.m. They know what it takes to bring change. They know it can come slowly, maddeningly so. But with the right mindset and constant pressure, they believe it is inevitable, as certain to arrive as the turn of seasons. ◆
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