Best Driving Vacations 2020 by The Columbus Dispatch/Dispatch Magazines

An Insider’s Guide to Modern St. Louis Cuisine

The seven Best Reasons to Visit Chattanooga Now

Grand Getaways

Neon in Norfolk: Touring the City’s Arts & Culture

Plus

Outdoor fun galore in Deep Creek Lake

five escapes to find top dining, arts, adventures and historic hotels

Roam a Gilded Age Retreat on Mackinac Island C1_COVER_FEB_BDV.indd 1

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D I S COVER H OLLAN D ! Wooden shoes and windmills. Tulips and tamales. Sand dunes and sculptures. Urban excitement and homespun simplicity. This is Holland. A sophisticated city wrapped up in small-town charm, and only 5 1⁄2 hours from Columbus!

MARVEL AT THE MILL Tour DeZwaan windmill, a 260-year-old authentic working Dutch windmill, and learn how the Dutch-certified miller grinds locally grown winter wheat into flour and corn into meal (available for purchase).

HIT THE BEACH Whether you spread a blanket on the sand and read a book, join in a rousing game of beach volleyball, stroll barefoot at water’s edge, picnic with friends along the shore, or build a castle in the sand, Holland offers a great selection of beaches, each with its own unique personality.

FOLLOW THE YELLOW BRICK ROAD Take your picture with life-size statues of Dorothy and her friends along the yellow brick road! This permanent year-round display pays homage to L. Frank Baum, who wrote parts of The Wonderful Wizard of Oz while staying at his family’s cottage, just a few short miles from downtown Holland!

HOLLAND

HOLLAND AREA VISITORS BUREAU 78 E 8th St • 800.506.1299 • holland.org • #discoverholland • Open 7 days a week

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Chattanooga

columbusmonthly.com DMG Interim General Manager Alan Miller Publisher/General Manager Ray Paprocki Associate publisher/Advertising Director Rheta Gallagher

EDITORIAL Best Driving Vacations Editor Chris Gaitten Columbus Monthly Editor Dave Ghose Special Sections Editor Emma Frankart Henterly contributors Laura Arenschield, Chris DeVille, Amanda E. Doyle, Jim Fischer, Greg Tasker

DESIGN & production Production/Design Director Craig Rusnak Art director Alyse Pasternak Associate art director Betsy Becker

Digital

Ride the River Chattanooga is brimming with art, history and natural wonders—and even some brand-new whiskey. Discover the top seven reasons to visit the Scenic City right now.

Port of Culture Norfolk has always been a Navy town, but past the piers, there’s a city full of quirky, fun-filled neighborhoods, led by an arts district known as the NEON.

Life by The Lakeside Climb a frozen waterfall, hike to Maryland’s highest point and enjoy a sunrise paddle at Deep Creek Lake, a place of adventure for all seasons. 4

Fall in Mackinac Tourists come by the boatload to Mackinac Island in the summer, but take an autumn trip and you’ll find a quiet retreat bursting with color.

The Culinary Gateway Enjoy an insider’s guide to the trendy dining scene of St. Louis, with a newfound reputation that now goes beyond just barbecue and Budweiser.

On the Cover Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island

Photography Photo Editor Tim Johnson Associate Photo Editor Rob Hardin

ADVERTISING Advertising Manager Holly Gallucci Account Executives Michelle Crossman, Tia Hardman, Kyle Nussbaum, Jackie Thiam Digital Specialist Steven Mace Sales Assistant Samantha Belk

Marketing marketing manager Lauren Reinhard letters: letters@columbusmonthly.com Press releases: pressreleases@columbusmonthly.com advertising: advertise@columbusmonthly.com Subscriptions/Customer service Toll Free: 877-688-8009

Editorial/Advertising Offices 62 E. Broad St. P.O. Box 1289 Columbus, OH 43216 Sailing on 614-888-4567Chautauqua Lake Columbus Monthly’s Best Driving Vacations, a supplement to Columbus Monthly magazine, is published annually by Gannett. All contents of this magazine are copyrighted © Gannett Co., Inc. 2020. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use, without written permission, of editorial or graphic content in any manner is prohibited. Publisher assumes no responsibility for return of unsolicited materials.

Photos: on the cover, Courtesy Grand Hotel; This page, Courtesy chattanooga convention & visitors bureau

Contents 6 22

Editor Julanne Hohbach Assistant Digital Editor Brittany Moseley

Columbus Monthly Best Driving Vacations 2020

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welcome to

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michigan's

Photos: on the cover, Courtesy Grand Hotel; This page, Courtesy chattanooga convention & visitors bureau

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Whether you’re looking for an escape from the ordinary everyday with the family at a waterpark hotel, or an eclectic night out with friends at a wine bar or brewery, in Michigan’s Little Bavaria, there’s something fun for everyone all year long. Plan your next getaway at frankenmuth.org!

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chattanooga

Ride the River And six other reasons to visit Chattanooga right now

If all you know of Chattanooga is the 1941 Glenn Miller Orchestra hit “Chattanooga Choo Choo,” then you’re missing out. (And even that reference has slipped off the pop culture radar for most people.) But the song’s namesake train still exists, and it’s just one of many reasons to become more familiar with the Scenic City. Chattanooga may get less publicity than Tennessee destinations like ever-booming Nashville, steamy, bluesy Memphis and the beautiful Pigeon Forge-Gatlinburg area, but it deserves more attention as a unique getaway for its top-tier cultural attractions, walkable neighborhoods, great restaurants and close proximity to natural wonders. As a bonus, visiting will also give you ample opportunity to say the city’s name, which is 6

derived from Native American words. (Say it out loud—“Chattanooga.” Isn’t that fun?!) Taking I-71 and I-75, Columbus-area residents can get to Chattanooga—situated in the Tennessee Valley between ridges of the Appalachians (thus its Scenic City nickname)—in about seven hours. How long you stay is up to you, but you can fill up, say, a long weekend and still not come close to experiencing everything it has to offer. Rather than overwhelm you with an abundance of options, here are the seven best things to do in Chattanooga right now. 1. Visit the Sculpture Fields There are obvious and obligatory things to have on your Chattanooga itinerary, but let’s start with a unique and off-the-beaten-

path stop—the Sculpture Fields at Montague Park, a 33-acre public greenspace filled with about 35 large-scale pieces of fine art adjacent to the city’s robust Southside. Executive director Anne Rushing has helmed Sculpture Fields since it opened in 2016. “My background is in taking art out of traditional exhibition spaces. Even the idea of ‘museum’ can be intimidating to some people,” Rushing says. “Here, you can have a picnic or walk your dog, and people who maybe aren’t into the fine arts can get an introduction.” Rushing’s own pooch, Sadie the Sculpture Dog, makes frequent appearances on the park’s social media platforms. The park has a circuitous history. The land was donated by a private citizen to

photo: courtesy chattanooga convention & visitors bureau

By Jim Fischer

Columbus Monthly Best Driving Vacations 2020

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The Chattanooga riverfront

photo: courtesy chattanooga convention & visitors bureau

ted. c e p x e e h from t renowned the city of Chattanooga in 1911, but it was literally the lowest point in a city through which a river meanders, so it was often unusable. In the 1940s, a solution was proposed to temporarily use the space as a landfill to raise the level of the land. It eventually reopened, but it was discovered to be contaminated and closed in 2003 due to environmental concerns. In 2006, renowned sculptor John Henry and his wife, Pamela, conceived the idea of addressing the environmental and health issues and creating a public art space on the land. Henry, whose studio overlooked the area, spearheaded a movement among civic leaders and the worldwide art community that resulted in Sculpture Fields, which features six permanent works and a rotating

featuring olumbus and tural seum of Na Located in C u M n ca ri e the Am unexpected exhibits from center full of ce n ie sc a is SI our whole History, CO ments that y o m g in z a m nd a revelations a t for weeks. talking abou e b ill w ily fam

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chattanooga

collection of 3D pieces by international and local artists. In addition to being an arts presence and greenspace in the city, the park hosts two big events each year. Spring in the Park marks the anniversary of the opening of Sculpture Fields with a family-friendly bash that culminates in the burning of a sculpture created specifically for the event. Sculptures in the Sky is a kite fest held in the fall, celebrating the park’s history by flying what are “sculptures themselves,” in Rushing’s words. Sculpture Fields at Montague Park is free and open to the public dawn until dusk daily. From downtown, it’s accessible by car, bike (rental stations are plentiful in Chattanooga) or the free electric shuttle. 2. Ascend a Mountain (if You’re so Inclined) Breathtaking views, natural features, American history and more make an excursion to Lookout Mountain an essential part of any visit to Chattanooga. Marissa Bell, public relations manager for the Chattanooga Convention & Visitors Bureau, recommends spending some time in the St. Elmo Historic District, the neighborhood with a small-town feel at the base of the mountain. Once a separate municipality, St. Elmo is now a revitalized neighborhood within Chattanooga, home to shops, restaurants and the Mad Knight Brewing Co. Catch the Incline Railway in St. Elmo for a ride to the top of Lookout Mountain, billed as “America’s Most Amazing Mile.” At the top, visit Point Park, a 10-acre memorial that 8

overlooks the Lookout Mountain battlefield, the site of a Civil War skirmish. A day at Lookout Mountain should also include a stop at Ruby Falls, the country’s tallest underground waterfall open to the public. The cave views inside are on par with the scenic vistas on the mountain. If you’re a save-the-best-for-last kind of person, wrap up your visit at Rock City, with its spectacular panorama—allegedly with sightlines to seven different states—and hiking trails. The brave can walk the 180-foot Swing-A-Long Bridge to get to Lover’s Leap, the popular vantage point, and also marvel at the splendid view of the High Falls cascading down the mountain. 3. Take a Selfie on a Very Long Bridge Chattanooga’s city center is eminently walkable, enhanced by the Walnut Street Pedestrian Bridge, which connects the downtown

Get out! Chattanooga is billed as the Scenic City for good reason—everywhere offers a feast for the eyes. You could reasonably spend a long weekend and not venture into a single museum, shop or other destination, if you’re the outdoorsy type. There’s even a dedicated city agency, Outdoor Chattanooga, that can help. Hiking opportunities are plentiful. The Riverwalk is a 123-mile path through downtown along the Tennessee River. There’s also 92-acre Stringer’s Ridge Park with three trails that overlook the North Shore and downtown. And then the Chickamauga & Chattanooga National Military Park beckons just to the south.

photos: clockwise from top left, Anne Rushing; istock.com/gnagel; courtesy Rock City

Clockwise from above, Sculpture Fields at Montague Park; Lover’s Leap and the High Falls; Rock City

Columbus Monthly Best Driving Vacations 2020

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photos: clockwise from top left, Anne Rushing; istock.com/gnagel; courtesy Rock City

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4. Eat the Duck So many good restaurants, so little time. That’s the Chattanooga dining scene for an out-of-town traveler. If you want to save time deciding where to eat, hit Beast + Barrel on the North Shore. If you’re skeptical of the term “elevated pub food,” don’t be. Beast + Barrel is a contemporary yet rustic smokehouse, blending traditional British elements with the tastes of the American South. Skip the menu, too, and just order the duck burger, topped with sriracha goat cheese and cherry compote. There are other delicious meaty and meatless items— like house-made sausages and a chickpea burger, respectively—but do the duck. It’s at once familiar and daring, and you’ll feel like you’ve tasted the spirit of the city. For those who want more options, there are plenty to be found. James Beard-nominated chef Daniel Lindsey runs Alleia in the Southside, serving Italian dishes with local ingredients and flair. Lindsey’s former operation, St. John’s, is also a high-end dining experience, focusing on seafood. For something significantly less formal, Champy’s serves top-notch fried chicken and beers in the east end Martin Luther King neighborhood. Also, Southside’s State of Confusion offers scratch-made food with a low country and South American bent. It is housed in a former eclectic shop/junk dealer and has retained some of the kitsch. Tony’s Pasta Shop & Trattoria in the Bluff View Art District has casual Italian dishes with locally sourced ingredients in a hip, downtown neighborhood. While you’re in Bluff View, visit the River Gallery and Rembrandt’s Coffee House. 5. Stay at the Choo Choo Maybe you don’t go for things that skew 10

toward the schmaltzy or sentimental. So, perhaps, spending your stay at the Chattanooga Choo Choo Historic Hotel isn’t for you. But, while there are lots of other options, how many allow you to sleep in a Pullman train car? This hotel is indeed a renovated train station and offers traditional rooms in addition to train cars. It’s home to a pair of high-quality dining options, a pouryour-own-beer hall, a distillery and a comedy club. It also houses Songbirds, a combination guitar museum and live music venue. Located in Southside, the Choo Choo is within easy walking distance of a host of other dining and entertainment options and adjacent to Station Street, an entertainment district that’s an open container area.

If you prefer something quainter than sleeping in a decommissioned train, the Bluff View Art District is home to the Bluff View Inn, a bed-and-breakfast housed in three turn-of-the-(previous)-century homes and within walking distance of popular downtown attractions. 6. Experience Riverfront Culture The Tennessee River winds its way through Chattanooga in such a way as to create a lengthy riverfront. The city capitalized on this feature and has made the riverfront home to a number of destinations for visitors. Most notable is the Tennessee Aquarium, where you don’t have to be a kid to appreciate the variety of creatures that call the place home. You can get close-up views of freshwater and saltwater animals,

photos: courtesy chattanooga convention & visitors bureau

riverfront to the bustling and funky North Shore. Erected in 1891, it’s one of the world’s longest pedestrian bridges and an iconic spot for taking pictures of yourself to induce vacation envy in your friends. To make the most of your Walnut Street walking experience, you’ll want to grab a bite at the North Shore’s Taconooga (get it?) and stop in at Julie Darling Donuts for some craft pastries (maybe box them to go) and a locally roasted Mad Priest Coffee for the walk across the bridge into town. Both are within eyeshot of the bridge’s North Shore terminus. As you exit the bridge downtown, you’ll spy The Ice Cream Show, a quirky little joint that makes customized, blended ice cream and fro-yo flavors. Treat yourself—you’ve earned it!

Columbus Monthly Best Driving Vacations 2020

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215 Sutton Street Maysville, Ky 606-564-5865 www.kygmc.org

The Old Pogue Experience and Bourbon History Exhibits

Whiskey to the People In 2011, Tim Piersant and some friends began to wonder how Chattanooga could be home to exactly zero distilleries. Their search for answers led them to create â&#x20AC;&#x153;Whiskey to the People,â&#x20AC;? the campaign that advocated for changing laws to allow a distillery to open for the first time in more than 100 years.

photos: top and bottom, courtesy CCVB; right, chattanooga whiskey

photos: courtesy chattanooga convention & visitors bureau

Clockwise from left, Chattanooga Choo Choo Historic Hotel and train; the riverfront; the Hunter Museum of American Art; Walnut Street Pedestrian Bridge

and be sure to check out the buildingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eyecatching design. Within blocks you can find the Hunter Museum of American Art, located on the bluff that gives name to the aforementioned art district. The museum is home to an eclectic collection of works by American artists in traditional and new media. Also in the neighborhood is the Creative Discovery Museum, Chattanoogaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s museum focusing on art, science and hands-on activities. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re checking out the riverfront destinations, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss the Moon Pie General Store. Yes, the Moon Pie, that most glorious of packaged desserts, was first madeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and continues to be producedâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;in Chattanooga. Memorabilia and, of course, all flavor of Moon Pies are available.

Piersant and his friends now run Chattanooga Whiskey through their original Experimental Distillery and a larger production facility. Tours of the Experimental Distillery are available, as are drinks of the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s flagship, Tennessee High Malt Whiskey, or its other liquors in a woodlined tasting room in the Southside space, right across the street from the Chattanooga Choo Choo.

7. Ride the River Chattanooga wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t merely built along a river for aesthetic purposes. Its port spurred the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s growth, and there are still several ways to hitch a ride on the water. The Southern Belle Riverboat offers a traditional river-town experience. The oldtimey vessel embarks on several sightseeing and themed cruises every dayâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;if the sky is clear, the sunset cruise is a real winner. (Plus, the owners are Ohio expats, says general manager Jonathan Reinert.) Located in the heart of downtown, the Bluff View Inn is nearby if you want to stay close to the water. If you prefer a more personal river experience, L2 Outside rents kayaks right downtown. Whether you get your feet wet in the current or simply enjoy the view from atop the bluffs, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll get a chance to appreciate how the city earned its nickname. Jim Fischer is a writer in Columbus who has enjoyed exploring Chattanooga. He insists Beast + Barrelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s duck burger alone is worth the trip.

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Best Driving Vacations 2020 Columbus Monthly

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Norfolk

Port of Culture The hidden gem of Norfolk offers much more than a giant naval base and maritime history.

The city of Norfolk is perhaps best known for the sailors who train off its shores. And to be sure, the Navy’s history is a driving force in this oceanside town in southeastern Virginia—no surprise, since the world’s largest naval base and NATO’s North American headquarters both call it home. But beyond the shipyards and training exercises is a city filled with art, exciting restaurants and quirky, growing neighborhoods—places where you can get a cocktail based on your personality or see the Virginia Symphony perform in a restored theater. Norfolk is about nine hours from Columbus by car, and the drive will take you through some of the prettiest mountains 12

on the East Coast. (Stop in Charlottesville, Virginia, for a bite to eat and a walk through a vibrant downtown to stretch your legs.) And when you get to Norfolk, visit the naval base, for sure—Naval Station Norfolk offers tours daily (cash only). But don’t miss the rest of the city, which has grown into a colorful and artistic hidden gem on the Chesapeake Bay. NEON Arts District The murals are the first things you’ll notice about the NEON area. “People are very interested in photographing those murals,” says Rachel McCall, a special projects manager for the Downtown Norfolk Council. “The NEON is this old neighborhood, but

with an amazing collection of street art and independent businesses.” NEON stands for “New Energy of Norfolk,” and it has been a place of concerted investment by the city and other community leaders in the last few years. A walkable district on the northern stretch of Norfolk’s historic downtown, the NEON once was a place for commerce and industry. McCall says the neighborhood was heavily populated with automobile dealerships and service stations—in fact, the Auto Row Historic District within the NEON was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2014. (The acronym is a play on the huge neon signs that marked the warehouses and dealerships throughout the district.)

photo: courtesy visitnorfolk

By Laura Arenschield

Columbus Monthly Best Driving Vacations 2020

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Three Exhibitions Annually Architecture History 145 E. Main St. | Lancaster, Ohio | 740-681-1423 | www.decartsohio.org

FREE ADMISSION

Tuesday–Friday, 10AM–4PM; Saturday and Sunday, 1–4PM

photo: courtesy visitnorfolk

A biker pedals along The Hague area of the Ghent neighborhood.

But now working artists, galleries and public art installations have made it one of the most creative parts of the city. And the art here is something to behold: The NEON is home to some of Virginia’s most important institutions, including the Chrysler Museum of Art. Open Tuesday through Sunday, the Chrysler boasts one of the Southeast’s most extensive art collections. Don’t miss the glass collection, one of the largest in the world, and the wideranging works by some of the most important artists of their times—Henri Matisse, Mary Cassatt, Paul Cezanne, Edward Hopper, Andy Warhol. If the Virginia Opera is in town—and even if it’s not—check out the Harrison

Some vacations become part of us. The beauty and experiences come home with us and beckon us back. Ohio’s Hocking Hills is such a place. Breathtaking scenery, unlimited outdoor adventures, prehistoric caves, waterfalls, hills and ravines all combine, take root and call you back again and again. Bring your ense of adventure and your heart to the Hocking Hills. You’ll go home with new stories and count the days until you can return. Explore the Hocking Hills, Ohio’s Natural Crown Jewels. Free Visitor’s Guide | 1-800-Hocking | ExploreHockingHills.com

Best Driving Vacations 2020 Columbus Monthly

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Opera House, the Virginia Opera’s home in Norfolk. Named for civic leaders Edythe C. and Stanley L. Harrison, it was formerly a World War II USO theater that was renovated in 1993. (Edythe Harrison’s mother was a concert pianist, and her father was a devotee of the opera; she led fundraising efforts to restore the building.) The district is also home to contemporary artists: Check out the galleries and creators at the d’Art Center, a nonprofit residential art studio that relocated to the NEON in 2016 and has more than 30 years of history in Norfolk. Or visit the Rutter Family Art Foundation, a contemporary arts center investing in local artists and public pieces. Even walking through the NEON is an adventure in art exploration. The district contains public art installations, impressive murals and a park called “The Plot,” made of reclaimed materials (think shipping con14

tainers repurposed as vertical planters), where community events are often held. If all the exploring stokes your appetite, stop for breakfast or lunch at Commune on the first floor of the Rutter center, where the chefs focus on local ingredients and creating a sense of community. Or grab a lowkey meal at Zeke’s Beans and Bowls, where you can get a spicy tuna poke bowl, fresh watermelon juice and pour-over coffee. Historic Ghent This neighborhood, near the mouth of the Indian River, is a place where charming old homes—Queen Anne, Colonial Revival and Tudor Revival—meet funky restaurants, shops and bars. (A former Columbus resident who now lives in the Hampton Roads area nearby called it “the Short North of Norfolk.”) And if you need more proof that Norfolk is a place that values its military history, Ghent is a perfect example—the neigh-

borhood is named for the Treaty of Ghent, the document that ended the War of 1812. A perfect day in Ghent: Start with brunch at Little Dog Diner (if you’re a bloody mary fan, it has one of the best in town, and don’t miss the bourbon butter syrup). Then, go for a walk. Admire the architecture and wander through artsy shops. There are many in Ghent, but Kitsch is a local favorite—the shop has been a longtime supporter of local makers and artisans, and it is a great place to stop for gifts for someone you love. Refuel with coffee at local roaster Café Stella and later grab a bowl of soup at The Ten Top, a cozy spot where the chefs concoct two or three homemade soups each day. Catch a film at the arthouse Naro Cinema, then stop for fresh oysters at the A.W. Shucks Raw Bar and Grill. And don’t miss Doumar’s Cones and BBQ, where you can watch as a waffle, fresh off one of the shop’s four irons, becomes your cone.

photos: clockwise from top right, courtesy visitnorfolk; courtesy downtown norfolk council (3)

Norfolk

Columbus Monthly Best Driving Vacations 2020

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GET LOST IN

photos: clockwise from top right, courtesy visitnorfolk; courtesy downtown norfolk council (3)

Opposite page, the NEON district and the Chrysler Museum of Art; this page, the Ghent neighborhood

Ocean View It’s almost a law of nature: If you’re making a trip to the Atlantic coast, you have to visit the beach. The ocean calls us—the soothing waves, the open horizon, sand squishing between toes. It’s restorative and restful, and a must if you’re near it. Ocean View—the locals call it “OV”—is among the best of Norfolk’s beach areas, a community with its own spit of land. (Truly, the peninsula is called Willoughby Spit, after the family that settled it.) There are three city beaches open to the public: Community Beach Park, Sarah Constant Beach Park and Ocean View Beach Park, which also offers nature trails, kayaking and bait-andtackle shops. Fish for largemouth bass, catfish and crappie from the Ocean View Fishing Pier. It wouldn’t be Norfolk without a little history. After you walk through the surf or splash in the waves, consider a visit to the Ocean View Station Museum, where you can learn more about this beachfront community’s past. And when it’s time to quench your thirst or grab a bite, drop in to one of the dive bars in Ocean View or East Beach. The Thirsty Camel is quirky (there’s a statue of a camel outside—a great place for an impromptu Instagram shoot) and beloved by the locals. In nearby East Beach, stop in for some seafood and a drink at Cutty Sark Marina, where Navy sailors, bikers and

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Norfolk locals mingle. Between OV and East Beach, eat at Jessy’s Tienda y Taqueria for café con pan (coffee and bread) or other homemade Mexican fare. Chelsea District Chelsea is technically a business district, but on historic maps and around the Norfolk city planning department, it’s referred to as South Ghentland, and in some cases the lines between Ghent and Chelsea are blurred. The Elizabeth River Trail, a 10.5mile waterfront path open to walkers, runners, cyclists and others traveling without motorized vehicles, intersects the district. In the last few years, the Chelsea District has blossomed. Head here to check out some of the area’s most notable breweries. Smartmouth Brewing offers free brewery tours, and Benchtop Brewing, which describes itself as “hop-forward,” is a must-visit for like-minded hopheads. If you’ve toured the Chelsea District’s breweries, it makes sense to stop at The Birch for craft beer-inspired grilled cheese sandwiches, but if you’re up for something old-school, check out Orapax. Offering Greek, Italian and American fare, the restaurant has been a Norfolk mainstay for 50 years. Or visit The Torch for fried pimiento cheese balls, burgers and frozen cocktails. Amid the indulging, catch a play at the community-centered Little Theater of Norfolk.

Where to Stay NEON: The Residence Inn Norfolk Downtown or the Wyndham Garden Norfolk Downtown are your best bets for hotels. Ghent: If bed-and-breakfasts are your thing, don’t miss the Page House Inn within one of the neighborhood’s historic homes.

Selden Market

meals. Check out Jikoni’s for vegan nachos, sandwiches and pizzas. Eat brunch or dinner at Toast, where sandwiches and toasts are made from homemade black sesame milk bread. And don’t miss Perro Blanco, hidden inside Toast. It’s Norfolk’s only mezcal bar, and it’s worth a visit. Freemason / Downtown The naval battleship U.S.S. Wisconsin, perhaps Norfolk’s most famous sight, cuts an imposing line through the little inlet

Downtown: Four Eleven York houses an upscale restaurant and a boutique B&B with four suites. It is pricey, but beautiful.

off the southern branch of the Elizabeth River, where it has been docked for the last 20 years. The ship has a storied military history that begins during World War II and includes nearly every conflict through the Gulf War. The ship now operates as a museum, and if you are in Norfolk and interested in military history, both the ship and the adjacent Nauticus maritime museum are must-sees. Visit to learn about the history of maritime battle, sea life native to the Virginia coast—including sharks—and

photos: top, istock.com/Imagesbybarbara; bottom, courtesy downtown norfolk council

Park Place In a city full of history, this is one of Norfolk’s oldest neighborhoods. Located just north of Historic Ghent, Park Place is diverse and home to some of Norfolk’s best restaurants. It’s also close to the Virginia Zoo, where you can sign up for one of 12 behind-the-scenes tours for an upclose look at giraffes, lions and a centuryold tortoise. The extra money from those tours helps support the zoo’s animal-care internship program, so taking one is basically philanthropy. Once you’ve watched a sun bear playing, head back to Park Place for a beer at O’Connor Brewing Co., one of coastal Virginia’s first microbreweries, or The Veil Brewing Co., a satellite location for one of Richmond’s favorite breweries. Check out some spoken word poetry at The Venue on 35th, where writers perform almost nightly. And don’t miss the restaurants. Locals love Handsome Biscuit for its homemade sweet potato biscuit sandwiches—go for breakfast or lunch for stick-to-your-ribs

U.S.S. Wisconsin

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underwater sanctuaries where scientists collect plant specimens for study. Once you’ve gotten your fill of military and maritime history, head over to Freemason, a downtown neighborhood of charming cobblestone streets and brightly colored historic homes. Stop for coffee at Cure, or treat yourself to a sweet treat at Hummingbird Macarons in the Pagoda— worth a visit on its own merits. The Pagoda was a gift from the Taiwanese government to the commonwealth of Virginia and the city of Norfolk in recognition of the state’s deep trading ties with Taiwan. It’s a tranquil spot, surrounded by gardens, and is a peaceful and restorative way to spend some time. Visit Selden Market to shop for vintage clothes, locally made leather bags and wallets, and toys designed to spark a child’s interest in learning. For dinner or cocktails, don’t miss Four Eleven York, where, if you answer a few questions, the bartender will mix up a cocktail called The Bartenders Experience based on your personality. Dinner focuses on mid-Atlantic seafood and locally sourced ingredients, and reservations are recommended. The restaurant shares the building with a renovated B&B that was once a historic inn, and like much of Norfolk, it combines antique charm with modern creative flair.

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The Pagoda

photo: courtesy downtown norfolk council

photos: top, istock.com/Imagesbybarbara; bottom, courtesy downtown norfolk council

Laura Arenschield is a Columbus-based writer who loves being in new places. On her next trip to Norfolk, she’s planning to eat all the oysters she can find.

1100 Rock & Roll Blvd. Cleveland, OH • 216.781.7625 • rockhall.com Best Driving Vacations 2020 Columbus Monthly

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Deep Creek lake

Life by the Lakeside Maryland’s Deep Creek Lake beckons, with outdoor activities galore.

Group vacationers know large rental homes rarely come cheap, even when splitting the cost among several parties. So Ryan Ackerman was pleasantly surprised to discover Deep Creek Lake last year when his small church group was planning a trip for summer’s waning days. “We stayed at a rental house called Smack Dab that was on the lake in a town called Oakland,” says Ackerman, a 35-year-old Westerville resident. “It was really affordable compared to other lake destinations like Lake Norris, and much closer to home.” It’s true: Deep Creek Lake, Maryland’s largest inland body of water, is just four hours from Columbus by car. Thus, the lake and its many nearby attractions are accessible for extended stays and long weekends. 18

For Ackerman’s group, fishing, boating and swimming proved to be ideal activities for soaking up summer’s final days together. They also voyaged to the famous Frank Lloyd Wright house Fallingwater an hour up the road in Mill Run, Pennsylvania. They indulged in some sweets at Deep Creek Donuts, which bills itself as a “fresh, homemade donut micro factory.” (Ackerman compares it to Duck Donuts.) Perhaps most memorably, they trekked amid the waterfalls at Deep Creek Lake State Park and Swallow Falls State Park. Still, that was just a sampling; Ackerman would have had to stick around for months to work his way through all the various sights and activities that have sprung up in the Deep Creek area.

Photo: Kristin Skeweris

By Chris DeVille

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Photo: Kristin Skeweris

Making a Vacation Mecca In the roaring ’20s, the Youghiogheny Hydro Electric Corp. had the bright idea to generate power from the raging currents of Deep Creek, a tributary of the Youghiogheny River. The company built a 1,300-foot impoundment dam to stem the tide. Within months the reservoir was full, and by May 1925 the hydroelectric plant was operational. Soon, so was a booming vacation industry, one that now welcomes 1.2 million visitors to Garrett County each year. Nestled within the Allegheny Mountains at Maryland’s western edge, the region is home to a wide range of natural wonders and attractions, including the state’s highest free-falling waterfall, its tallest mountain, its only ski resort and a statebest 90,000 acres of public land. Perhaps foremost among the area’s superlatives is a man-made contribution to the landscape, Deep Creek Lake itself. Spanning 3,900 acres and 65 miles of shoreline, it’s Maryland’s largest freshwater lake and a center for all kinds of aquatic activity. Sarah Duck at the Garrett County Chamber of Commerce says vacation rental homes are the most plentiful accommodations, along with hotels, lodges, cabins and bedand-breakfasts. The local state parks also have plenty of camping options. Although active as a vacation hub for nearly a century, in recent years the region has quietly emerged as a prime location for outdoor adventure and relaxation in all seasons. The Wild Winter It’s impossible to discuss winter in the Deep Creek Lake region without mentioning Wisp Resort, which offers a wide range of activities year-round but is best known as Maryland’s only ski resort. Garrett County gets an average of 120 inches of snowfall per year—“nearly double that of Fairbanks, Alaska,” Duck explains. Those seeking to speed down the mountainside have 32 slopes and trails to choose from, plus a snow tubing area and the Mountain Coaster, billed as “a gravitational hybrid of an alpine slide and a roller coaster.” About 1,300 feet of track up Wisp Mountain lead to a 3,500-foot downhill ride that spans 350 vertical feet. Wisp also offers several terrain parks for freestyle skiing and snowboarding. Adventurers in search of a more horizontal experience can try cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and snowmobiling at Wisp’s Nordic Center, as well as skating at the ice rink. The resort offers a fair amount of indoor

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Deep Creek lake

Sightseeing in Spring Given the temperate climate, spring may be the best time to explore the region’s ample hiking and biking trails, heritage sites and shopping options. It also might be the most affordable time to visit. Duck says many local rentals will offer a special rate of three nights for the cost of two from March 12 to May 7, holidays excluded. Garrett County is home to eight state parks and two state forests, so the trails are numerous and diverse. Deep Creek Lake State Park offers rugged terrain ideal for hiking and mountain biking. Adventurers can also snag a bird’s-eye view of the lake from Thayerville Fire Tower. For breathtaking views without as much effort, take a drive and a short hike to Maryland’s highest point, the Hoye-Crest summit on Backbone Mountain, named for the late Capt. Charles E. Hoye, founder of the Garrett County Historical Society. Railey suggests Herrington Manor State Park and Garrett State Forest for longer, flatland hikes, including one 6-mile trail that connects both of those sites with Swallow Falls State Park and its famous (occasionally) frozen waterfall. Even more hiking and mountain biking options are available at Fork Run Recreation Area, New Germany State Park and Savage River State Forest. 20

Clockwise from top left, the Mountain Coaster; mountain biking in the area; Muddy Creek Falls

Appropriately enough for a region defined by its man-made body of water, many of the Deep Creek Lake area’s wonders were built into the landscape by humans. Several of the historic structures in Garrett County can be found in and around Casselman River Bridge State Park in Grantsville. The park is named for its titular 80-foot stone arch, the longest of its kind upon its construction in 1813. From then until 1933 it was part of the National Road, helping to establish the area’s vibrant commercial prospects during the pioneer area. That history is preserved at the adjacent Spruce Forest Artisan Village, a set of historic structures including a 19thcentury mill and schoolhouse and Miller House Peace Center.

Not far from Grantsville, after glimpsing an incredible view from the Cove Scenic Overlook, you can go back even further in time in the intriguingly named Accident, Maryland. There you’ll find the Drane House, the county’s oldest building. Among other historical sites in the area are Oakland’s B&O Railroad Museum and the gravesite of Maryland’s famous frontier hunter Meshach Browning, near Friendsville. Guide yourself through these spots and more with the Gateway to the West Heritage Tours app or the map at garrettheritage.com. Head into Friendsville proper for libations at Deep Creek Cellars, open by appointment from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Thursday through Saturday. Wine and cheese pairings

Photos: Top left and right, Courtesy Garrett County Chamber of COmmerce/Timothy Jacobsen; Bottom, Kristin Skeweris

options, too, including some amenities you’d expect (an indoor pool, hot tub and fitness center) and some that may surprise you (escape rooms). One way to experience Wisp is by crashing at its recently renovated lodge, where guests are treated to a nightly s’mores roasting. January and February are the best months for ice fishing at Deep Creek Lake and other Garrett County lakes and rivers. Cross-country skiers can find groomed trails and rentals at area state parks including Herrington Manor, New Germany and Sang Run. You can take a horse-drawn sleigh ride at Circle R Ranch in Oakland, and great winter hiking is available at Swallow Falls State Park, where you’ll find the aforementioned 53-foot waterfall, Muddy Creek Falls. “About January, it freezes solid and people will actually climb up the ice and repel down it, which is just absolutely wild,” says Railey Realty’s Kristin Skeweris. “Since this river’s frozen, you can actually walk out to the frozen waterfall.” If you’re looking to time your visit to a special event, the Oakland Winter Fest brings ice sculptures, ice-carving demonstrations and sleigh rides to downtown Oakland on Feb. 15 and 16.

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An aerial view of Deep Creek Lake

You’re gonna love it here.

Photo: Courtesy Garrett County Chamber of COmmerce /Timothy Jacobsen

Photos: Top left and right, Courtesy Garrett County Chamber of COmmerce/Timothy Jacobsen; Bottom, Kristin Skeweris

can be sampled at FireFly Creamery & Market in Accident, and epicureans of all stripes will enjoy the annual Taste of Garrett festival May 3 at Wisp Resort. Summertime Waterfront Fun Most of Deep Creek Lake’s springtime activities translate to summer, but the hot season is especially good for the region’s abundant aquatic activities. Many types of watercraft rentals are available—pontoon boats, canoes, kayaks, jet skis—for all manner of fun, including tubing, waterskiing, wakeboarding, paddleboarding, you name it. To turn your outing into a guided experience, get a kayak tour though All Earth Eco Tours, whose year-round offerings also include yoga, team-building programs, hiking and photography tours, and much more. “One of the cool things that locals do is getting out for a sunrise paddle,” Skeweris says. “There’s absolutely no one on the water. It’s just a really cool, serene way to wake up.” Looking to go fishing? According to Maryland’s Department of Natural Resources, Deep Creek Lake allows gaspowered boats and is a popular location for bass fishing tournaments. Beyond largemouth and smallmouth, it’s stocked with a wide variety of species including walleye, yellow perch and chain pickerel. Bill’s Marine Service and Outdoor Center offers family float trips for fishing. There are piers all along the shoreline, too, and many of the lakefront rental homes have docks where anglers can cast their lines.

For good times all season long, try Honi-Honi Bar in Oakland, an outdoor, waterfront joint where you can dock your boat, enjoy live music, turn kids loose on the playground and maybe stop for ice cream down the road at Lakeside Creamery. Another watering hole Duck recommends is McHenry’s Black Bear Tavern: “They have a sports bar on one side and a nightclub with music on the other side,” she says. As for getting around on dry land, the Oakland-based stables Circle R and Western Trails offer horseback riding, including guided tours and pony rides. Western Trails has off-road ATV rentals and UTV tours, too. Another place for outdoor fun is Monkey Business Aerial Adventures, with its array of zip lines and ropes courses. It’s part of DCL Adventures, which has an inflatable water park on the lake called Splash Island, set to open for the summer on June 15. The DCL empire also has an indoor-outdoor gaming center called Deep Creek Fun Zone, which features go-karts, bumper boats, an arcade and more. It’s one of several such facilities in the area, including Funland and Fun Unlimited; at the latter, parents play for free when paying for a child aged 16 or younger. And at the nearby Deep Creek Ninja Factory, you can partake in American Ninja Warriorstyle challenges. That’s probably not the first activity you’d associate with a massive freshwater reservoir in rural Maryland, but Deep Creek Lake overflows with surprises. Chris DeVille is an editor at the music website Stereogum. He has written for The Ringer, The Verge, Rolling Stone and Columbus Monthly.

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Mackinac Island

Fall in Mackinac Discover a hidden island retreat, full of history and alive with color.

For many visitors, Mackinac Island’s picturesque Main Street, boat-filled docks and friendly bars and fudge shops are the primary draws of this tiny island in northern Michigan. But aficionados of Mackinac (pronounced mack-i-naw) will tell you two things. First, avoid visiting in July and August, when the ferries from the mainland bring boatload after boatload of tourists. Second, Main Street is simply the gateway to explore other parts of the tiny isle. First visited by Native Americans, the island sits on the eastern edge of the Straits of Mackinac, where two Great Lakes— Michigan and Huron—meet. After a long history of fur trading and military operations, Mackinac emerged as a summer destination around the 1850s; that role was 22

cemented nearly 40 years later when the island’s Grand Hotel opened for business. It remains in operation and is among the last standing large wood-frame hotels built in the United States during the Gilded Age. One thing you should know about Mackinac: Motorized vehicles are not allowed. They have been banned since 1898. Though it’s less than a day’s drive—about seven hours north of Columbus—most visitors arrive by ferry from ports on the lower and upper peninsulas. Everyone gets around by foot, bicycle or horse—or horse-drawn carriages. Despite its origins as a summer vacation spot, fall is an especially wonderful time to visit Mackinac. The hardwood trees of northern Michigan erupt in fiery colors, with spectacular views of mainland forests

Photo: Istock.com/Michael Deemer

By Greg Tasker

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Downtown Mackinac Island at sunset

Photo: Istock.com/Michael Deemer

from island vantage points. The clomping of horses along paved streets grows louder, reminding visitors to take it easy, embrace the moment. And without throngs of tourists, Main Street is more welcoming and easier to navigate. Bike the Island Riding a bike is the best way to explore the 4-square-mile island, and rentals can be found at shops along Main Street as well as through many hotels. Biking the circle route is a rite of passage. The road, Michigan 185, is a designated state highway, the only one in the country on which motorized vehicles are not allowed. The two-lane road hugs the rocky shoreline along the 8-mile loop, displaying plenty of natural splendor. On the island’s eastern side, there are scenic vistas of Lake Huron and nearby wooded islands. The west side opens up to the Straits of Mackinac, providing panoramas of both peninsulas and the iconic Mackinac Bridge. Circling the island, you’ll pass natural landmarks, including Dwightwood Spring on the eastern shore. Named after the son of one of Mackinac’s early summer

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Mackinac Island cottagers, Dwightwood is the most famous of the island’s many clear, cold springs. Yes, you can drink the water. Nearby is perhaps the most renowned natural landmark: Arch Rock. Visible from the road, it’s worth taking the time to park your bike and climb the stairs of the Nicolet Watch Tower for a closer look. The natural limestone arch stands 146 feet above the water. Native Americans revered it as a spiritual place. More than three-quarters of the island is part of Mackinac Island State Park, home to 70 miles of trails—some paved, some not. They’re open to hiking, biking and horseback riding. The interior is hilly and rugged, and mountain or fat tire bikes are recommended. Historic Sites Fort Mackinac, a limestone garrison built in the late 18th century by the British army, is the most historic structure on the island. The impressive fort stands 150 feet above the harbor. It’s one of only a few remaining intact from the Revolutionary War, and it’s also home to the oldest building in Michigan—the Officers’ Stone Quarters, built in 1780. Exhibits explain everything from training and battles to medical treatments to family life. Military

and living history demonstrations are held daily on the parade grounds. For an additional fee, the daring can help clean, load, prime and fire a cannon. That experience is available every morning at 9:15 from June through early October. Most of the island’s wood-frame buildings were built in the latter half of the 19th century, as Mackinac became a summer getaway. Among the buildings preceding that era is the American Fur Co. Store and Dr. Beaumont Museum on Market Street, which provides another glimpse of the area’s past as a military and trading outpost. Main Street Mackinac’s thoroughfare looks pretty much like it did at the end of the 19th century. Many Victorian-era homes and buildings are now boutiques, souvenir shops, restaurants and hotels. It’s the island’s busiest spot, shared by pedestrians, bicyclists, horse-drawn wagons and ferries, loading and unloading guests and their luggage at the docks and hotels. The family-owned Doud’s Market, at the eastern edge of town on Main, is the island’s primary grocer and sells just about anything you might need during an island visit.

Photo: Courtesy Mackinac Island Tourism Bureau

Round Island Lighthouse in the Straits of Mackinac

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Photo: Courtesy Mackinac Island Tourism Bureau

Arch Rock

Photo: Clockwise from Top, Courtesy Mackinac Island Tourism Bureau (3); Courtesy Grand Hotel

Long before fudge became fashionable as a vacation treat, Original Murdick’s Fudge was paddling warm, gooey chocolate and other confections into loaves on marble slabs in front of throngs of curious onlookers. The family behind the now-famous fudge shop initially came to the island in the summer of 1887 to make canvas awnings for the new Grand Hotel. They later found success with a family recipe for fudge, and now they own three shops on the island—two of which welcome people on Main Street. Fudge has become something of a local delicacy, and there are plenty of other purveyors as well. For a taste of the nightlife, there are quite a few spots clustered around the downtown area. Among Mackinac’s famous watering holes is The Mustang Lounge, billed as Michigan’s most historic tavern. Inside, the log walls date back to the 1780s. A two-minute

walk away, the Pink Pony at the Chippewa Hotel is known for its pink-themed bar and restaurant, which overlooks the waterfront. The Grand Hotel You’d be hard-pressed to visit Mackinac Island and not stop by the Grand Hotel, which opened in 1887 after being built in just 90 days. Initially available just two months a year, the hotel’s season now extends from May through the end of October. Every autumn, it hosts the annual “Somewhere in Time” weekend, when guests show up in turn-of-the-century clothing to celebrate the beloved 1980 film starring Christopher Reeve and Jane Seymour, which was filmed there. Mementos of the movie can still be found in the hallways. Like the rest of island, the hotel is a throwback to another era, but with modern

touches and a casual, welcoming ambiance. The 660-foot-long front porch, believed to be the world’s largest, is worth the price of admission ($10 for non-hotel guests). Kick back in one of the white, wooden rocking chairs that line the porch and take in the turquoise waters of the Straits of Mackinac, the immaculate grounds below the hotel and the mainland. Some 1,400 geraniums in planting boxes adorn the porch. Linger, or step inside, and you’re likely to run into Bob Tagatz, the hotel’s resident historian. The amiable Tagatz will regale you not only with the history of the impressive hotel, built by railroad and steamship companies, but also of the island. As Tagatz explains, one of the things that strikes most first-time visitors is the building’s bold and colorful interior. The hotel’s public places and nearly 400 rooms and suites have been decorated by Carleton Varney, owner and president of Dorothy Draper and Co. Tagatz says the bright colors often disarm preconceived notions of a stuffy hotel. “We’re elegant, but we don’t take ourselves too seriously here. We’re not this snobby thing on the hill. The hotel is for everyone, and what fun it is.” When it’s time to depart, the 25-minute ferry ride back to the mainland is bittersweet, offering a chance to readjust to daily life in the 21st century and take stock of the island’s charms, which are always waiting for a return visit. Greg Tasker is a writer in Traverse City, Michigan. He works for a winery and writes about Michigan’s tourist destinations. The Grand Hotel

“Somewhere in Time” weekend at the Grand Hotel

Horse-drawn carriages touring the island Best Driving Vacations 2020 Columbus Monthly

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photos: courtesy great vacations travel expo

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