oh,
Tables for two romantic dining
Iconic Eats
columbus’ signature dishes
$3.99 Spring 2012
www.columbuscrave.com
cTheaptain man beh ind Fisherma Wharf n’s
Turkish Cuisine Defined: as a fusion and refinement of Central Asian, Middle Eastern and Balkan cuisines. Party room available.
1450 Bethel Road • Bethel Center • Columbus, Oh 43220 (614) 273 44 44 shishkebabgrill.com
THE FACES OF FRESH FOOD. Curds & Whey • The Greener Grocer • The Fish Guys • Bluescreek Farm Meats Market Blooms • Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams • North Market Poultry and Game • Omega Artisan Bakery and 27 more
Supporting local businesses. Nourishing our community. Passionately preserving good taste. www.facebook.com/NorthMarket @NorthMarket
www.northmarket.com 59 Spruce Street
•
Downtown Columbus
•
(614) 463-9664
•
open daily
www.denovobistro.com
Indulge
with
201 S. High St. Columbus, Ohio 43215 614-222-8830
Mondays
All Day and All Night $5
Greek Gyros
Offer valid at German Village and Grandview locations. Gyro Special Dine-In Only
German Village
912 South High Street
614.445.9090
Grandview
1788 W 5th Ave.
614.485.9090
www.jimmyvspub.com
www.cafeistanbul.com 3983 Worth Avenue - Easton, Columbus OH 43219 Phone: (614) 473-9144 2455 E. Main St., Bexley, OH 43209 Phone: (614) 237-9920 15% Off Your Bill with this Ad
contents The Columbus dining magazine
Spring 2012
cover story Iconic Eats Columbus’ signature dishes
68
Starters
10 Editor’s Note 14 Craveworthy 16 Spotted!
Pasta-making supplies What’s trending in Columbus restaurants AOI’s iPad menus, Sidebar’s bacon snacks and regulars at Tommy’s
22 Essay
From the Galaxy Cafe to Explorer’s Club
26 Events
ColumbusCrave.com
18 Scoop
l
On the scene at foodie events around town
31 Crave Calendar
Plan out your season
Food
36 Strip Search
How-to guide to pho
40 Street Eats
Ray Ray’s Hog Pit
42 Family Dining
Tips for eating out
46 At Home
Rick Lopez’s kitchen
48 Reading List
Till chef’s cookbooks
50 Cooking Class
Chefs share their secrets
54 Icon
Mediterranean on Bethel
38 Vietnamese
60 Tables for Two
Niki Chalkias still steers Fisherman’s Wharf
Romantic dining for Valentine’s Day
Drink
96 Seasonal
Hot cocoas and chocolate cocktails
98 Beer
High-end brews in cans 100 Perfect Pairings What to order with 1808 Bistro’s short ribs 102 Closing Time Giuseppe’s Kendyl Meadows shares her favorite places to eat and drink in Columbus Cover Photo by
will shilling Contents photo: Alysia burton
Above, Seafood Bisque at Fisherman’s Wharf. On the cover, the Thurmanator at Thurman Cafe. 0 0 0 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l S p r i n g 2 0 1 2
34 S. Third St. Columbus, OH 43215 614-461-8700 ColumbusCrave.com Publisher Katie Wolfe Lloyd kwolfe@columbuscrave.com Director of Niche Publications Brian Lindamood blindamood@columbuscrave.com Editor Shelley Mann smann@columbuscrave.com Creative Director Will Shilling Design Editor Yogesh Chaudhary Photographers Alysia Burton and Jodi Miller Contributors G.A. Benton, Tessa Berg, Robin Davis, Chris DeVille, Jim Ellison, Jackie Mantey, Jill Moorhead, Karina Nova, Beth Stallings, Eric Wagner and Bethia Woolf Office Manager Silvana Hildebrandt 614-461-8700 shildebrandt@columbuscrave.com ADVERTISING Niche Publications Advertising Manager Amy Bishop abishop@columbuscrave.com Restaurant Account Executives Valeria McNeal vmcneal@columbuscrave.com Erica Phillips ephillips@columbuscrave.com Subscriptions Don’t miss an issue: Have Crave delivered to your home. Subscriptions are available for $10 for one year (5 issues). To order, call toll-free 877-688-8009 or visit ColumbusCrave.com. Crave magazine is published and distributed by the Dispatch Printing Company four times a year. Crave is not responsible for unsolicited photographs, manuscripts or other materials. Reproduction of contents without express written permission is prohibited. Copyright © 2012 The Dispatch Printing Company.
See our work at:
Lindey’s German Village • Brio Tuscan Grille Bravo Lennox Town Center • Bon Vie Café Istanbul • Bel Lago (formerly Hoover Grille) Athletic Club of Columbus - Grille Room Cup O’ Joe Lennox Town Center Johnny Buccelli’s Just to name a few...
144 East State St., Columbus, OH 43215 614-224-0343 • www.meleca.com
starters
editor’s note
Playing favorites
F
Photo: jodi miller
Shelley at Brown Bag Deli in German Village
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ellow people of Columbus, we really love our burgers. And sandwiches. And German Village. These things became increasingly clear as we began compiling a list of the dishes that define our city. In our quest to identify our signature dishes, we solicited ideas from readers and other longtime Columbusites. And, of course, we couldn’t include all the favorites. Quite a few sandwiches and burgers had to be nixed—our aforementioned love of them meant we had a glut of equally worthy nominees. And a few legendary German Village restaurants were cut, too, lest we ended up with what amounted to a walking tour of that brick-lined neighborhood. Once we had our 12 picks, many of which have been on menus for ages, I got to go around and try them. Some I’d eaten many times before. Others I was eating for the first time. I’d never attempted the Thurmanator before, for example, and didn’t have a clue why the house salad at Polaris Grill is called the 55 Salad. As a non-native (I grew up in Cincinnati), eating my way through these classic dishes made me feel a connection to the city I didn’t know I was missing. It’s my job to keep up with what’s new and exciting on our dining scene, but it’s also imperative to know what came before. To appreciate where we’re going, you have to understand where we came from. While narrowing down the list, I kept coming back to this idea: which are the dishes you’d miss most if you moved away from Columbus? While I believe Crave’s list represents our collective favorites, if I was making my own personal list of those dishes
it would look much different. Here are the five things I find myself ordering most frequently: 1. Buddha Bowl at Northstar Cafe: The veggie burger gets all the glory, but when I’m in the mood for something healthy, this bowl o’ brown rice with tofu and tons of bright, steamed broccoli, carrots and cauliflower is my go-to. 2. Spicy Pork Noodle Soup at Ying’s Teahouse: The minute I feel a cold coming on, I head straight to this Clintonville mom-and-pop spot and order a huge bowl of their steaming, head-clearing, practically magical soup. 3. The Hulk pizza at Bono: If forced to pick my very favorite of Bono’s pies, I’d have to say this pestosauced one, topped with every green vegetable you can think up. 4. Country Egg sandwich at Katalina’s: Breakfast at the Victorian Village cafe has become my most cherished Sunday-morning tradition. The specialty here is sandwiches, and this one (with fried egg, roasted garlic, walnut pesto, cheddar and prosciutto) is a winner. 5. Cocoa Rococo sundae at Jeni’s: We chose a more exotic sundae for our Iconic Eats list, but I’m partial to this one. It’s got dark chocolate ice cream, super-salty nuts and gobs of Jeni’s amazing caramel sauce. Let’s eat,
Shelley Mann, Editor
RUSTIC. URBAN. FOOD. “Seasonal Driven, Farm to Fork Comfort Classics with an Urban Edge”
Photo by Ely Brothers
410 E Whittier St. • Columbus, OH 43206 • 614-443-2266 Follow the location of our Mobile Kitchen on Facebook and Twitter www.skilletruf.com witter
Char Broiled Steaks | Lobster & Seafood Award Winning Wine List Live Piano Nightly | Bar Menu
2891 East Main Street | Columbus, Ohio 43209 | 614.231.8238 | thetopsteakhouse.com
Forgot to make Valentine’s dinner reservations? Home-cooked pasta is an easy way to impress a date. Here’s what you’ll need. Story by sh e l l e y M a nn P hotos by j o d i m i l l e r
Spoon One particularly innovative feature sets this serving spoon apart from the rest—a weighted handle that keeps the head elevated to eliminate messy counters (and the need for a spoon rest). Spaghetti spoon, $8.99 at North Market Cookware
Sauce Carfagna’s is celebrating 75 years of providing Columbus with Italian staples, including their famous family-recipe pasta sauce. The chianti-spiked sauce is full of crushed tomatoes, garlic and fresh herbs. Carfagna’s Pasta Sauce, $5.49 at Carfagna’s on the North Side
Pasta For homemade pasta without the work, check out the freezer case at Carfagna’s market. The North Side landmark sells one-pound portions of several varieties of fresh-made pasta, including some great, tender egg spaghetti. Egg spaghetti, $5.49 at Carfagna’s on the North Side
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Grater Replicate the diningout experience at home with a restaurant-quality, stainless-steel, hand-crank cheese grater, available at restaurant supply stores.
Pesto
As a matter of fact, we aren’t even considered Mexican...
Cheese grater, $13.54 at Wasserstrom in Clintonville
In the mood for something different than your standard tomatosauced pasta? Try pesto instead. Hills makes it easy, selling premade containers of the basilparmesan sauce in the deli. Hills’ Own Pesto sauce, $7.99 at The Hills Market in Worthington
Colander For those who don’t cook much, it’s silly to waste kitchen space with a bulky colander. Drain your pasta in this nifty collapsible version instead. Collapsible colander, $9.99 at Market District in Upper Arlington
Welcome to the Cuisine of the Southwest! For over 20 years Chile Verde has brought The Land of Enchantment to Central Ohio by offering a burst of flavor from New Mexico with a menu that is representative of Native American, Anglo and Spanish traditions and cultures. Check out our popular Fiesta Menu, Catering for all tastes, Gluten Free & Vegetarian 4852 Sawmill Rd. Columbus, OH 43235
(614) 442-6630 View our entire menu at www.chileverdecafe.com
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scoop
trends
spotted! A look at what’s trending on the Columbus restaurant scene Sto ry by s h e l l e y M a nn
Sweet potato tots
A marriage of two of our very favorite things, sweet potato fries and tater tots, these guys can be found at Eleven (with brown sugar-bacon dipping sauce), Latitude 41 (with a spicy curry yogurt) and Two Mad Dogs (with maple syrup and marshmallow fluff).
Brussels sprouts
It’s Brussels sprouts season! Skillet’s serving shaved Brussels in a simple salad with olive oil, lemon and ricotta salata. At Knead, the Ohioan pizza is topped with mashed potatoes, chicken, bacon, white cheddar and great fried sprouts.
warming up Boudin
This Cajun snack, a rice-and-meatstuffed sausage found in the South, has been spotted at Da Levee as well as at G. Michael’s, where it’s served with smoked tomato, hominy and red pea succotash in a remoulade sauce.
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Skewers
At hip new Section 8 Yakitorium, the specialty is Japanese-style grilled chicken skewers called yakitori. Just-opened Sidebar 122 has skewers, too—Grilled Chicken and Shrimp ones with a spicy cilantro sauce and Grilled Beef Tenderloin ones with a blue cheese sauce.
Chipotle-style
This trend isn’t new, but it’s suddenly blowing up in Columbus. A sampling of recent openings: Fresh 50 (Chipotle-style Asian), Papaya (Chipotle-style tropical fare), Tava (Chipotle-style Turkish). Plus, it seems like a new Piada (Chipotle-style Italian) is opening every week.
Super hot
Rabbit
Rabbit is HOT on menus across the country, and it’s starting to trickle down to Columbus. Try it baconwrapped and cranberry-stuffed at DeepWood. At Rigsby’s, housemade pappardelle is topped with a long-cooked rabbit sauce made with porcini, rosemary and tarragon. And Kitchen Little at North Market occasionally incorporates rabbit onto its menu—think gumbo made with rabbit.
Ramen Ricotta
Harvest Pizzeria serves a Warm Ricotta with Crostini appetizer in a tiny Mason jar. Third & Hollywood goes a step cuter with its Housemade Ricotta app. Truffle-oillaced cheese and garlicky Swiss chard are served in a pair of mini Staub crocks.
Dark & Stormys
No, not instant soup in a cup— way better. DeepWood’s winter menu features duck with housemade ramen noodles, snow peas, carrots, soft cooked eggs and mushrooms. And among Section 8 Yakitorium’s nonyakitori offerings is a steaming mug of chicken ramen.
I’ve bemoaned this city’s lack of a great Dark & Stormy since Details closed, but happily we’re seeing a new crop of this classic cocktail. Sidebar 122 makes a gorgeous, layered drink with Brugal Anejo and Cruzan Blackstrap rums. And at M, a seasonal Dark & Stormy is mixed with Mt. Gay Eclipse rum and Gosling’s Ginger Beer.
BISTRO & BAR
Wedding Special $2.00 OFF PER GUEST on all events booked (Platinum and Banquet packages only) “100 guest min.”
“G. Mike’s
justly famous Shrimp & Grits” — Columbus Alive
4654 Groves Road Columbus, OH 43232 614-863-9281 www.acateredevent.biz
A Catered Event... Let us cater to your needs
G MICHAEL’S P R I X F I X E M O N D AY S 3 Courses for $30 614.464.0575 595 S. Third Street gmichaelsbistro.com
German Village
scoop
Bites
idining New sushi spot AOI Blue Bar takes the guesswork out of choosing between specialty rolls. Customers can flip through hi-res color photos of every menu item on an iPad. It’s the first restaurant in Columbus we’ve seen using iPads as menus, and manager Bob Truax says the eventual goal is to allow waiters to take orders via the iPad and customers to pay at the table using the technology. “People seem to love it,” Truax said. According to a survey
AOI Blue Bar 878 Bethel Rd., Northwest Side 614-824-2664; aoibluebar.com
conducted by Open Table, nearly one in five restaurant owners plan to incorporate mobile technology during the next year. Another trend? Restaurants using iPhones to accept credit card payments. The Square app allows vendors to equip their iPhone or iPad with little square-shaped card readers. The Square has been adopted by street food vendors like Freshstreet as well as brick-and-mortar restaurants (Da Levee uses the device). The app works with all major credit cards, charges the user a 2.75 percent rate per swipe, and deposits payments directly into a bank account by the next day. Customers can even request an emailed receipt. —Shelley Mann
Best new bar snack Sidebar 122
Photo: jodi miller
122 E. Main St., Downtown 614-228-9041 sidebar122.com
Bacon has been candied and triple-smoked and wrapped around anything you can imagine. There’s not much more you can
do with the most beloved of cured meats, which is why we’re glad Sidebar 122 is taking it back to the basics. Sidebar’s signature bar snack is strips of bacon— plain old, fried-up bacon. Complimentary wine glasses filled with bacon are set out along the bar, giving patrons a little something to pair with the restaurant’s carefully crafted classic cocktails. So much better than peanuts. —Shelley Mann
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Check out what’s blooming at
Huffman’s Market
We have all your homegrown food, beverage, and gourmet needs
State Liquor Agency
2140 Tremont Center, Upper Arlington (614) 486-5336 • www.huffmansmarket.com
scoop
regulars Photo: Alysia burton
Captivating and unique tradition with contemporary style bringing a new experience to columbus
HAPPY HOUR SPECIALS
diner style Brothers Howard and Butch Kendrick were among Tommy’s Diner’s first customers back in 1989, when Tommy and Kathy Pappas purchased the Franklinton eatery. Decades later, the Kendricks still stop in several times a week. —Karina Nova
Name:
How long have you been eating at Tommy’s? Butch: Actually, we were coming here even before it was Tommy’s Diner. We grew up in Franklinton so we knew it before Tommy bought it. We’ve been coming to this location for about 50 years.
What do you usually order? Butch: They have great daily specials. Howard: I like when Kathy makes the beef stroganoff, the bean soup and cornbread.
What brings you back? Howard: No one feels like a stranger here, you feel like part of the family. The waitresses are great, the food is good and the price is right.
Tommy’s Diner 914 W. Broad St., Franklinton 614-224-2422 tommyscolumbus.com Hours: 5:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday-Friday, 5:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Saturday, 7 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday
Howard Kendrick Age: 72 Name:
Butch Kendrick Age: 70
For sushi Monday - Tuesday 5 - 6:30 pm 1/2 price off selected standard rolls For drinks Monday - Thursday 5 - 7 pm $2 Domestic beers $3 Small hot sakes $5 Moshi creative martinis
Full kitchen menu with extensive sushi selection Full bar and eclectic wine selection
What makes this place so special? Butch: You feel at home when you come here. You get to know Tommy and his family pretty well. One time he sent me a cake when I was in the hospital—he does stuff like that for everybody. Howard: You’d be amazed at the people that come here. Sheriff Jim Karnes used to be a regular, Dewey Stokes and other big names. Here, those people who are high up get down to our level. Catch Karina Nova’s weekly Crave segments Saturday mornings on 10TV News HD.
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2152 E. Main St. Bexley, OH 43209 614.732.0641
Family operated for 5 generations.
Enjoy
for:
• Morning Coffee with a full espresso bar. • Mid-day Energy with acai and fruit smoothies. • Evening Dessert with hand-crafted chocolates. • We ship gifts and gift baskets. 897 South Third Street, German Village at the corner of 3rd and Whittier
•
(614) 445-6464
•
www.winanscandies.com
scoop By Jim Ellison
I
Essay
guide to the galaxy How one man’s restaurants sparked a food lover’s career
was an eater before I was a writer. The marriage of my vocation and avocation was preceded by a very long engagement. Can you recall the moment when the course of your life changed? I can. I remember the moment when writing and eating were wed. It started with one meal, followed by many more. You can blame Ricky Barnes. Let’s digress with some culinary history. In my formative days, Columbus was the fastfood and quick-dining capital of the country: Wendy’s, Damon’s, Max & Erma’s and so many more. Dining gone wild was an annual pilgrimage to the Kahiki.
And Powell was too far away—drive 30 minutes for dinner? No way. But in the early 1990s I kept hearing about the Galaxy Cafe, and finally broke the I-270 barrier to check the place out. Ricky was one of the owners (other Galaxy alumni started Nacho Mama’s and Starliner Diner). The Galaxy brought a new attitude to Columbus dining in the form of plantains, cilantro and Southwesternfusion flavors that set diners spinning on their stools. This was the only place playing alternative music and hiring tattooed, pierced and painfully cute waitresses (before this became the trademark of our uber-hip Downtown
dining scene). When a second Galaxy opened in Grandview, I was in heaven. The menu was similar; the commute much shorter. As Ricky came to know me, he asked me to sample new dishes and occasionally comped me a dessert for my loyalty. The third entry into the Galaxy Empire was Lost Planet Pizza and Pasta in the Short North, with a menu of thin-crust pizzas and topping combinations beyond comprehension of mere mortals. Things were great, and therefore doomed to end. The Galaxy in Powell was sold first (it became the first La Tavola), then the Grand-
Chilaquiles at Explorers Club
Photo: jodi miller
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view Galaxy. Eventually, we even lost Lost Planet. Ricky would reopen the old Lost Planet space as Ricky’s Galaxy. However, things were not clicking in round two. On a Sunday in August 2001, Ricky served me the best breakfast of my life and I told him so. I went on vacation, coming home Sept. 10, 2001. The next day wasn’t so great. In search of some post-9/11 sanity, I walked to Ricky’s Galaxy, only to find a place called Betty’s and Liz Lessner behind the bar. I left in shock. In just two weeks, the Galaxy had imploded and my universe had changed. Galaxy Cafe first opened the door to culinary curiosity for me. While this history unfolded, I was recording it. Inspired, I compiled a tome of my favorite Columbus restaurants called the Good Food Guide, featuring short write-ups, menus and hand-drawn maps. I printed small batches to distribute to anyone who was interested. The next decade was filled with food-fueled freelance writing, a book deal-gonebelly up, a blog, a podcast, a radio show and more. All that plus a bit of good luck recently landed me a gig with the Economic and Community Development Institute’s Food Fort, an incubator for food businesses. I started my new job shortly after Ricky opened his first restaurant in 10 years, Explorers Club, at 1586 S. High St. in Merion Village. What a difference a decade makes—the gift for changing my life was getting my muse back. Jim Ellison blogs about food as the CMH Gourmand.
Fisherman’s Wharf Want it fresh?
Seafood, Steaks, & Martini Bar Open for lunch & dinner 7 days a week
ǯ Ǧ ͕͕Ǧ͛ ͕͖Ǧ͖͔͔Ǥ
We don’t have customers... We have friends and family!
Family owned and operated since 1970
614-431-1411 1611 Polaris Pkwy Bestgreekusa.com Owned by Maria, John, Gina & Nikki
Like us on
LouiE’s Grill Fusion Restaurant
Mexican_Cuban_Italian
Fusion
100% made from scratch, 90% made to order, just the way you want it! Open for Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.
Buy $25 and get $5! Buy $50 or more and get a $10 gift card* *Doesn’t apply with other offers
Louiesgrillfusionrestaurant.net 4453 Cemetry Rd Hillard 777-5606
3051 Northwest Blvd Upper Arlington 670-8582
scoop
events
Barcelona
Chef’s Tasting Dinner Wednesday, Nov. 30 Photo s by Tes sa B e rg Barcelona Chef Paul Yow created a series of Chef’s Tasting Dinners to mark the 15th anniversary of the German Village restaurant. The final dinner in the series featured a menu created by Yow’s sous-chef, Jeff White, and Yow’s wife Haeran, who oversees baking for Barcelona. The fourcourse meal included pairings of food and wine from the Basque region of Spain, like a Basque-style cider-glazed pork loin.
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5
FOR THE GREAT TASTE OF MEXICO 2012
Carfagna’s
IT’S THE AWARD WINNING...
Your hometown family business
It’s the Sauce!
It’s all natural! Go ahead, read the label
HAPPY HOUR MON-FRI 4-7 PM MON-SAT 8AM-10PM Join us on
Try one of Carfagna’s locally made Sauces
• Original Gourmet • Pomadoro Basilico • Vodka • Sicilian • Pootaneska Ask your neighborhood grocer or buy it online at Carfagnas.com
www.cucostaqueria.com
2162 W. Henderson Rd. • 614.538.8701
“WE PROMISE TO DO OUR CHORES IF YOU TAKE US TO OLD MOHAWK”
Visit the Carfagna’s at our family restaurant Kitchen
Family Restaurant • Wine Bar
2025 Polaris Parkway (2 blocks east of I-71)
614.848.4488
take out • dine-in
and at our Italian Market & Butcher Shop famous
Sunday: 8oz Sirloin dinner - $9.99 all day Monday: Pick-a-pasta night - $9.99 Tuesday: Two for $10.00 quesadillas Wednesday: Lasagna - $8.99 after 4pm Thursday: Homemade Meatloaf all day long
I TA L I A N MARKET
1405 E. Dublin-Granville Rd. (1 block east of I-71)
614.846.6340 Carfagnas.com
Olde Mohawk Restaurant 821 Mohawk St. German Village 444.7204 Open every day www.theoldmohawk.com Open Sunday & Monday 11am - 10pm • Tuesday - Thursday 11am - 11pm Friday & Saturday 11am - 12am
scoop
events
Refectory
Off the Menu Dinner Tuesday, Nov. 15 Photo s by Tes sa B e rg Slow Food Columbus recruited Refectory chef Richard Blondin to show off his skills by developing a meal centered on wild game for their popular Off the Menu series. The series is designed to let chefs experiment with dishes they don’t serve regularly, as well as providing diners with a one-of-a-kind experience. Guests enjoyed Scottish Wood Pigeon Terrine, Rabbit Royal Lasagna, a Duet of Antelope and Blood Sausage, and Pig Feet Carpaccio.
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THIS IS IT
SUSHI, SEAFOOD AND NOODLES PRIVATE KARAOKE SUITES AVAILABLE ANY DAY, ANY TIME HAPPY HOUR MON. - FRI. 5-7 face -poker "p-p-p oker face" p p-p-p-
Sing Karaoke with us Wed-Sat
OTANI Otanisushi.com
Since 1978 Corner of 161 and 71 • 614.431.3333
Voted one of the Top 10 New Restaurants in Columbus We are one of the top trending restaurants in Columbus in 2011-2012 with some of the area’s most creative and delicious dishes prepared with a Caribbean, Cuban, Mexican, and Southwestern flair! And great Vegan and vegetarian dishes.
1586 S. High St. • Columbus, OH
(614) 725-0155
www.ExploresClubmv.com
OHIO PROUD. Made in Ohio. Grown in Ohio. OYO is named after the original word for the Ohio River Valley (“O-Why-O”) and is a line of smooth, full-bodied artisan spirits brimming with character distinctively reflective of their Ohio origins.
Public Tours Weds. & Fri. 6pm For reservations contact tours@middlewestspirits.com
1230 Courtland Ave, Columbus OH 43201. Distilled from grain. 40-46% Alc. by vol. © 2012 Middle West Spirits. Columbus OH.
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events
Camelot Cellars
Winter Cranberry Holiday Dinner Monday, Dec. 12 Photo s by E ri c Wag ne r Cranberries got elevated from side-dish status to starring role in a special holiday dinner at Camelot Cellars. Diners gathered around the Tuscan Table in the renovated Short North space to feast on a fourcourse, cranberry-themed meal served by Laura’s Catering. Each course—spiced cranberry soup, a mixed green salad with dried cranberries, cranberry-orangesauced fettuccine and a dessert—was paired with one of Camelot’s own wines.
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Crave Calendar Spring 2012
Ohio’s Sweet Hearts Feb. 3 The Hills Market
Treat yourself to 16 of Ohio’s best desserts, each paired with a beverage, in this tasting to benefit Mended Little Hearts, a support program for families of children with heart disease.
thehillsmarket.com
up for best picture.
thehillsmarket.com
Central Ohio Home & Garden Show Feb. 25-March 4 Ohio Expo Center
Come for the gorgeous gardens, stay for the cooking demos and an amateur cake decorating competition.
Flavors of the Vine
dispatchevents.com
Taste more than 150 wines from American and international wineries at this 20th-anniversary fundraising event, a benefit for Recreation Unlimited.
Feb. 27 Spagio and Spagio Cellars
Feb. 10 Hilton Columbus/Polaris
recreationunlimited.org
Valentine Food and Wine Pairing Dinner Feb. 11 Wyandotte Winery
Fun date idea: an intimate dinner—complete with live music!—at this winery on Columbus’ North Side.
wyandottewinery.com
Fiery Foods Fest February 18-19 North Market
The annual celebration of spice includes chef and amateur chili contests, hot sauce and salsa competitions, and jalapeno- and hot wing-eating challenges.
northmarket.com
Oscar Dinner Feb. 25 The Hills Market
Join Columbus film critics for a five-course meal at The Hills inspired by the movies
Wine, Food and Dining with the Stars Sample wines and creations from more than a dozen chefs at this benefit for the Pleasure Guild of Nationwide Children’s Hospital.
nationwidechildrens.org
Dine Originals Week March 5-11
Special fixed-price menus at nearly 50 independent, locally owned restaurants.
PRIVATE EVENTS ARE JUST ONE OF OUR SPECIALTIES. NOW ACCEPTING RESERVATIONS FOR VALENTINE’S DAY. WE ARE NOT YOUR ORDINARY RESTAURANT! EVENT SPACE AVAILABLE FOR UP TO 250 GUESTS AT OUR WORTHINGTON LOCATION. PRIVATE DINING FOR UP TO 40 GUESTS AT OUR DUBLIN LOCATION.
dineoriginalscolumbus.com
St. Patrick’s Day March 10 Dublin
Catch the parade, then indulge in Irish food favorites and a pint (or two) at the pubs and restaurants in historic downtown Dublin.
irishisanattitude.com
Celebrity Chef April 19 Huntington Park
Columbus restaurants and local celebrities serve guests tastes of their favorite dishes at this Capital Area Humane Society fundraiser.
cahs-pets.org
restaurant & bar
Something Great For Everyone
Sunday Brunch
Dublin and Worthington 11am - 2pm 6880 N. High St. Worthington, OH 614-888-1818
50 West Bridge St. Dublin, OH 614-718-1818
View our entire menu at
www.jliurestaurant.com Full catering and banquet facility available See our website for more details
New Catering Menu • Wood Burning Fireplace on the Patio • Live Music Every Tuesday & Sunday • Gluten Free Pizza As the owner of Local Roots, I believe everything is better when it comes from the farm. Our goal is to serve our customers with an abundance of locally sourced goods. We are excited to be an Ohio Proud Affiliate serving All Natural Ohio Amish Chicken, Ohio Pork, and Certified Angus Beef. Our family farm, not far from downtown Powell, provides us with fresh produce for the restaurant. When not from the farm the produce is always purchased from local vendors. We have a small herb garden on the patio that provides us with most of the herbs we use. In order to utilize the freshest seasonal products we change the menu often, and are always striving to increase the amount of local goods we use at Local Roots. Of the 24 beers on tap, 6 are from Ohio; we also pour 3 wines from local wineries. I would like to take a moment to thank you for allowing us to be a part of your day and serve you. –– Jessi
Iams
LOCAL ROOTS 15 E. Olentangy St, Powell, Ohio 43065 • 614-602-8060 • localrootspowell.com
TURN OFF YOUR TV
AND COME TO RUDE DOG BAR & GRILL!
Tail waggin’ times & food that keeps you beggin’ for more
Watch your favorite sporting events on our many HDTV’s plus live music Thursday - Saturday
PLAN Y EVENT OUR H We ca n acc ERE! om up to
moda t eople e !
250 p
8711 Sancus Blvd. Polaris • 614-847-7364 rudedogbarandgrill.com
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BELLA ITALIAN COMFORT FOOD The passion of Italy in the heart of Granville.
TRY OUR NEW WINTER MENU Located in downtown Granville, just 15 minutes from the outter belt! 128 East Broadway • Granville, OH 43023
(740) 920-4032 bellagranville.com
food
Ika-Uni-Masago Sushi.com
7160 Muirfield Dr., Dublin 614-336-8686 sushidotcom.com
Story by Shelley Mann Photo by jodi m i ller
Heavenly creatures Uni, or sea urchin, is a challenging dish, with a creamy consistency that’s off-putting to many. But for the non-squeamish, urchin is a delightful delicacy, boasting a sweet, briny flavor that’s downright addictive. Find out whether you fall on the love-it or hate-it end of the spectrum at Dublin’s Sushi.com, where a cheerful little starter combines uni with thin slivers of sushigrade squid and two types of eggs—a pile of crunchy masago (roe) and a bright yellow, sunny-side-up quail egg.
guide
strip search
Melting pot Terrific Turkish food and much more await in a surprisingly multifaceted Northwest Side shopping plaza Story by G . A . B e nto n l P hoto s by Alys i a B urton
B
uzzing through Columbus, you might zoom right past Bethel Centre plaza and pay no attention. After all, it’s just another blur of storefronts, right? Well, serendipity-minded passersby taking the time to investigate Bethel Centre will find out it’s like the compressed downtown of a little global village bent into a three-sided street. Spanning Bethel Centre— it conjures up a melting-pot pop-up Monopoly board—is a tightly packed horde of diverse shops, such as: an Asian bakery, a barber, a tattoo parlor, ethnic grocers, a card-playing salon plus lap-
Cafe Shish Kebab 1450 Bethel Rd., Northwest Side 614-273-4444 shishkebabgrill.com Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday
top and hockey specialists. Also mixing in seamlessly are: an overachieving, underexposed Indian eatery; a neat and cheap Vietnamese restaurant; the best brickand-mortar Mexican street food in town; a killer Korean place hidden in the back of a store; and a terrific Turkish food palace whose cuisine, staff and clientele speak to the cross-pollinating, multiculti beehive that characterizes Bethel Centre—and today’s Columbus in general. People from all over the world were enthusiastically eating, and I heard workers speaking English, Spanish and Turkish the last time I visited Cafe Shish Kebab. Considering Turkish food is an amalgam of Eastern European, Central Asian and Middle Eastern dishes fused together by the once-pow-
Cafe Shish Kebab dining room, top; Iskender Kebab, bottom; Shepherd’s Casserole, opposite erful and conquer-happy Ottoman Empire, this seemed perfectly fitting. Cafe Shish Kebab’s suave, handsome and comfy setting is another good fit. Surrounded by walls memorably covered in highly polished, dark-grained wood, it’s a rarity of versatility: a white tablecloth establishment suitable for special-occasion dining, rowdy family celebrations or just a casual lunch. Similarly, Shish Kebab’s vibrant, fresh and healthy-leaning food offers something wonderful for every palate.
For instance, discriminating vegetarians can make a cravetastic meal out of toasty, dimpled and sesameseed-sprinkled house bread loaves (called “pide”) and delectable dips (each about $6), such as: the best baba ganoush in town; deeply, sweetly roasted ratatouillelike “eggplant with sauce”; a refreshing, lemon and parsley-forward tabouli; rich, tangy, dill-kissed and tzatzikiish haydari; and the spicy, walnutty and salsa-y ezme. Eight of these nibblers come corralled in the excellent appetizer sampler ($16).
For an enlivening spin on the top-notch kebabs, try them prepared “Iskender” style: plated with fried bread, tomato sauce and yogurt
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The Lineup
More Bethel Centre eats
New India Restaurant
Los Guachos
Cuisine: Indian Vibe: Simple, folksy ethnic appointments and colorful genre prints engage smart area locals and graduate students Must-try dishes: Chicken chili, Punjabi Bhaji, Lamb Saag, Aloo Baingan
Cuisine: Mexican Vibe: Wildly carved wooden tables plus Mexican TV shows distinguish this tidy little counter-ordering joint Must-try dishes: Tacos al Pastor, Gringas, Tortas, Huaraches
Lac Viet
Arirang
Cuisine: Vietnamese Vibe: Roomy booths, tinkling music, and friendly and informative service make for a pleasing, low-key setting Must-try dishes: Canh Cua, Cuu Nuong, Ca Ri, Goi Ga
Cuisine: Korean Vibe: A bare-bones dining niche in the back of a jam-packed Korean grocer Must-try dishes: Jeyuk Bokkeum, Yookaltang, Arirang Jangteogukap, Haemul-Pajeon
Shish Kebab hooks up seafood seekers, too. Check out the steaky Swordfish or garlicky Grilled Shrimp— both $18 and both served with good rice and a neat green salad. Of course kebabs here are top-notch, but for an enlivening spin, try them prepared “Iskender” style. This means slathered in a perky tomato sauce and served atop a beautiful bed of fried pide cubes blanketed with Shish Kebab’s intense yogurt. It’s a game-changing sensation, especially with lusty handmade gyro meat (Doner, $16), or sausagey and bellpeppery Adana (with ground chicken or lamb, $15). Lamb lovers are especially in luck. Try the unusual—and unusually fantastic—Sultan’s Favorite ($15, think Turkish
shrimp-n-grits, but with lamb and outrageously great, cheesy mashed eggplant) or the fiercely traditional Shepherd’s Casserole ($15). The latter’s like a gigantic, oregano-flecked stir fry (stewy meat with fajita-y peppers, tomatoes and onions) served in its own cooking vessel—a shallow black handmade wok called a “sac” (pronounced “sotch”) brought over from Turkey. Sweet toothers should focus attention on cinnamony sutlac (rice pudding), custardy kazandibi and kunefe (sweet cheese pastry). But all eager eaters should pay more attention to the surprisingly bountiful Bethel Centre plaza. Restaurant critic G.A. Benton blogs at columbusalive.com
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guide
Vietnamese
Step-by-step guide to pho Making it
Eating it
1
1
Beef bones are slowly simmered in water to make broth.
2
Lightly grilled onions and garlic are added several hours into the simmering process.
WHAT IS PHO? Everything you need to know about the addictive noodle soup Story by RO BIN DAV IS l Ph oto s by JODI MI L L ER
P
ho is a Vietnamese noodle soup with quite a loyal following. But ordering— and eating—this soul-warming stuff can be intimidating for the uninitiated. First, there’s the name. Pho is pronounced “fuh”— not like “phone” without the “ne.” Then there’s the complex assortment of condiments that come with it, from peppery Thai basil to fiery Sriracha hot sauce. They make the soup infinitely customizable, but can also make things confusing for first-timers unsure of what and how much to add. For a primer on the soup, I turned to Thang Nguyen of Lac Viet on Bethel Road. Nguyen makes pho broth from scratch, babying it as the bones simmer for hours in his 60-gallon kettle.
At many restaurants, customers can choose from toppings including thin slices of rare beef or well-done beef, tripe and tendon. Nguyen serves his only with rare beef or meatballs. The real proof, he says, is in the broth. “If the broth is good enough, you don’t need all that.” Diners are served a huge bowl with rice noodles, green onions, cilantro and meat, all topped with a generous portion of that fragrant broth. Alongside comes a plate with sprouts, basil, lime and jalapeno slices. Most restaurants offer bottles of Sriracha and hoisin on the table. That’s when the fun starts. “Most dishes, you can’t do so much with, just salt and pepper,” Nguyen said. “Pho is fully customizable. It’s limitless.”
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3
Spices like star anise, cardamom and whole peppercorns are added a couple of hours before the broth is done. At the very end, the broth is seasoned with salt.
4
To serve, cooked rice noodles are placed in the bowl, topped with meat (such as raw beef, lamb or chicken) and then cilantro and green onions. Broth is poured over top.
5
Garnishes (bean sprouts, jalapeno slices, basil, hot sauces) are served on the side.
Sip the broth first before deciding which, if any, condiments to add. Nguyen eats it with just some jalapeno slices for heat.
2
Season as you go. Many people start adding condiments when they’re about halfway finished. A squeeze of lime, maybe, and then squirts of hoisin and Sriracha when just a few noodles and a splash of broth remains.
3
The best way to eat this mammoth bowl of goodness is with two hands, says Nguyen. Use your dominant hand to pick up a few noodles with chopsticks or a fork. Get those to your mouth then follow it with a spoonful of broth from a spoon in the other hand.
Pho Vocabulary Pho ba = beef noodle soup Pho ga = chicken noodle soup Pho cuu = lamb noodle soup
Where to find it Some of the local restaurants serving pho l Buckeye Pho, 761 Bethel Rd., Northwest Side l Huong Vietnamese Restaurant, 1270 Morse Rd., North Side l Indochine Cafe, 561 S. Hamilton Rd., Whitehall l Lac Viet, 1506 Bethel Rd., Northwest Side l Lan Viet, 59 Spruce St., North Market l Mi Li Cafe, 5858 Emporium Square, North Side l Pho Asian Noodle House, 1288 W. Lane Ave., Upper Arlington l Pho Saigon inside Asian Grocery, 5644 Columbus Square,
North Side l Saigon Palace, 114 N. Front St., Downtown
Lime slices
Beef
Thai basil
Beef broth Grilled ginger
Chicken
Lamb Green onion
Star anise
Grilled onion
Sriracha and hoisin
Fresh cilantro Whole peppercorns
Black cardamom
Jalapeno slices Rice noodles Bean sprouts
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guide
street eats
out in the cold
Left, James Ray Anderson serves a slab of ribs; below, brisket on the smoker at Ray Ray’s
Ray Ray’s braves the winter months to bring barbecue to loyal fans Story by B et h i a wo o l f l P h oto s by JO D I M ILLER
C
entral Ohio’s chill is hard on mobile food vendors. But even in the depths of winter you’ll find people lining up outside Ray Ray’s Hog Pit, braving sub-zero temperatures for a taste of hickory-smoked heaven. One of the most popular food trucks in Columbus, Ray Ray’s is also one of few able to operate year-round. That’s thanks to a winterized truck and a loyal local following that has made it into something of a Clintonville institution. Ray Ray’s is owned and operated by pit boss James Ray Anderson, a self-taught BBQ guru inspired by his professional-barbecuer dad. Anderson has run restaurants
in the past, but he prefers the simpler life of mobile food vending. He keeps the menu small and consistent so he can focus on doing what he does at the highest level possible. What makes Ray Ray’s so special? Well, everything, from the quality of wood Anderson uses to smoke the best meats he can find, to the thought he puts into the recipes for his rubs, seasonings and sauces. Ray Ray’s beef brisket takes 12 to 14 hours to cook. That’s a lot of care and attention, and it’s worth it. The result is barbecue you think about days after eating, long after the lingering smell of smoke and sauce has left your fingers.
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Where to find it:
What to get:
The Ray Ray’s truck parks in the lot of the Super Food Market at the corner of Pacemont Road and High Street in Clintonville.
Brisket is Ray Ray’s most popular item. On Sundays only they also offer 100 percent grass-fed brisket. Word to the wise—it generally sells out. Anderson’s advice for newcomers is to start with a half pound of brisket and a half slab of Memphis dryrub ribs. The hickory smoke flavor really comes through in
When to go: Ray Ray’s is open from noon to 8 p.m. Friday through Sunday—but “when it’s out, it’s out!”
those pork ribs, which are so tender the meat pulls right off the bone. You’ll also find pulled pork and occasional specials, like smoked turkey or burnt ends (charred, crunchy scraps of brisket with an intense smoky flavor).
On the side: Sides are mac and cheese, coleslaw, baked beans and greens. Ask each person in line and they’ll name a different one as their favorite. The greens, a mixture of kale and collards, are perfectly cooked so they retain their texture rather than turning into mush. The mac and cheese is creamy and comfort-foody. The coleslaw is a refreshing counterpoint to the piles of meat, and the beans are saucy, sweet and spicy. Through the winter
Ray Ray’s Hog Pit 614-753-1191 Search for Ray Ray’s on Facebook months, you may also see special sides like skillet butter corn, green beans and red skins, and red beans and rice.
Don’t forget… The barbecue sauce. Out of the four sauces offered, the habanero is the most popular, and it’s not as hot as it might sound. It’s a wellbalanced sauce with a nice kick. Bethia Woolf, owner of the tour company Columbus Food Adventures, blogs at streeteatscolumbus.com
guide
families
Andrew and Laura Arocha play I Spy with their children (from left, Michael, 7; Sarah, 11; and Drew, 9) while they wait for their food at Rusty Bucket in Dublin.
off the kids menu
Having kids doesn’t mean you have to stop eating out. And family-friendly dining doesn’t have to mean Chuck E. Cheese. Story by Ro b i n Dav i s l P h oto by Alys i a b u rton
T
he sedate atmosphere of the Refectory offers ideal surroundings for intimate celebrations from engagements to anniversaries. Patrons look forward to enjoying a quiet dinner with impeccable
service. What they might not anticipate is a young child dining alongside them. Yet it happens frequently. While Columbus is full of family-friendly restaurants— including pizzerias and burger joints—some parents
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prefer to take their kids to high-end restaurants. Kamal Boulos, owner of the Refectory, said the restaurant gets tables with children several times a week. “We do have a children’s menu. It’s a well-kept secret,” said Boulos, who has taken
his own 16-year-old daughter out to nice restaurants since she was 2 or 3. Kids can pick from breast of chicken, pasta or a petite filet mignon, and each comes with a choice of soup or salad and ice cream for dessert. While the majority of children are well-behaved, noise can be a problem. Even a happily squealing baby can disrupt the dining room. Zach Morris says that’s exactly why he couldn’t imagine taking his 5-yearold son to the Refectory or Rigsby’s Kitchen.
Expert advice Whether taking your children out to a fine dining or family-style restaurant, a few basic guidelines will make the experience better for everyone. Here are some tips gathered from parents, restaurant owners and etiquette expert Mindy Lockard of Gracious Living in Portland, Oregon. l Dining-out training should begin at home. Teach kids to use utensils and napkins, sit squarely in their chairs and eat what’s put in front of them. l Let the restaurant know ahead of time that you’re bringing children. This allows them to arrange for high chairs as well a table better suited for a family. l Explain to your children ahead of time that dining out is a special occasion and what your expectations are. l Engage your children during dinner. Make them feel they belong at the table. l If your child is fussy, walk them around the restaurant or take them outside. But don’t let the child run around the restaurant. l Know your child’s limitations. If they have never sat through a two-hour dinner at home, you can’t expect them to do so at a restaurant. l Don’t be afraid to cancel reservations or leave the restaurant once you’re there, if necessary. Restaurants will be happy to package your food if you need to leave because your child is having a meltdown. l If you’re seated at a table near a loud or fussy child that is disturbing you, ask to be moved.
But the 32-year-old Upper Arlington resident and his wife do like to take their son to places like Marcella’s, the Italian bistro with locations in the Short North and Polaris, where the atmosphere is a little louder and the food more accessible to youngsters. “It’s one of those places that my wife and I can enjoy the scenery, but it’s noisy enough that people won’t notice,” he said. “We can get gnocchi and wine, and he can have a pizza. It’s the perfect balance.” Laura Arocha of Dublin
said she and her husband have taken their three children, ages 7 to 11, out to eat since they were very young. “We didn’t limit where we dined because of the kids, so they had to adapt,” said the 42-year-old, who dines out at least once a week, sometimes with the children and sometimes without. For her, one of the keys to a successful night out with her children is letting them participate. “They order their food. We don’t order for them,” she said. “If they want something else they ask the server.”
SAKURA JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE
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Make your reservations for Valentine’s Day, Prom, Easter, and Mother’s Day Private event room that accommodates up to 40 people
4210 Stelzer Rd • Columbus, OH 43219 Call for Reservations 614.476.6088
www.sakuraeaston.com
Serving Lunch and Dinner
The best taco al pastor in the city!
MONDAYS: Buy One Taco al Pastor and get one FREE EE
WEDNESDAYS::
2
$ each
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SAT & SUN: Cabeza de Res Tacos (Veal Head) & Barbacoa de Borrego Tacos (Lamb) Skip the wait, call ahead for carry out orders:
(614) 538-0211
5221 Godown Rd. • Columbus, OH 43235 Open Daily Sun - Thu: 11:00am-12:00am Fri & Sat: 11:00am-1:00am
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chefs
at home
local hero Knead chef keeps his home kitchen stocked with Ohio ingredients Story by Ro b i n Dav i s Photo s by J o di M i l l e r
R
ick Lopez is known for his commitment to locally sourced ingredients in the kitchen of his Short North restaurant, Knead. The kitchen at his Grandview home is no different. Grocery store-brand eggs won’t do. Ditto for milk, cream and butter. But he does make a few
Chef Lopez’s very first cookbook was “Mighty Marvel Superheroes’ Cookbook”
Pasta with Parmesan Cream Makes about 4 servings Ingredients: l 2 cups flour, plus additional for rolling l 3 eggs l 1 tablespoon butter l 1/4 cup white wine or water l 1/4 cup cream
l 1 cup grated Parmigiano
Reggiano l Freshly grated nutmeg l Salt and cracked black pepper Mix the flour and a pinch of salt. Make a well in the center of the flour. Crack eggs into the well. Pull the dry ingredients into the center with a dough scraper until you have rough little balls of dough.
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Knead together, adding water if necessary. Keep working the dough until it forms into a smooth ball. Wrap in plastic and let rest 15 minutes. Cut the dough as though cutting thick slices of bread. Roll out with a rolling pin to 1/8- to 1/4-inch thickness, using lots of flour to keep from sticking. Sprinkle dough with flour. Roll up as for jelly
roll. Cut with a knife into fettuccine. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add the pasta. Reduce heat to low. Cook until tender, but still firm to bite. Meanwhile, melt the butter with the wine in a large pot. Remove from heat. Drain pasta and add to butter pot. Add cream and Parmesan. Toss to coat. Season with salt, nutmeg and pepper.
exceptions. “When we can’t find something locally, we go to very humanely sourced ingredients from small places,� said the chef, previously of La Tavola and Tapatio. With just these five ingredients he always has on hand at home, Lopez knows he can make a meal at a
moment’s notice: homemade pasta with butter and Parmesan, maybe a little cream. But to make a dish with so few ingredients, quality is key. “You want the ingredients to be exceptional,� Lopez said. Robin Davis is food editor of the Columbus Dispatch.
What’s always in your Kitchen? tastes milder and creamier, like when I was a child.�
3
Holistic Acres eggs
Ser v i n g
Comfort Food!
“The yolks are really golden, which makes my pasta taste much better.�
4
Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
1
Hartzler Family Dairy butter “It’s just Amish, handchurned, very yellow—what butter should be. When you put it on bread it tastes like butter.�
2
Snowville Creamery cream and milk “It’s probably the best milk I’ve ever had in my life. It
“Parmigiano Reggiano can’t be beat. I’ve never found anything domestically that’s as good, though there are decent cheeses coming out of Ohio now.�
5
King Arthur unbleached all-purpose flour: “We can’t grow softer wheat here for flour. King Arthur is a great company.�
Knead 505 N. High St., Short North 614-228-6323 kneadonhigh.com
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chefs
reading list
Magdiale Wolmark’s collection of knives and cookbooks, pictured in his Dragonfly kitchen.
Book smarts Till’s chef-owner shares some of his favorite titles Story by Jac k i e M ant e y l P h oto by J o d i m i l ler
I
nside Magdiale Wolmark’s kitchen is a cubby crammed with books— an unlikely sight in a professional kitchen. Wolmark, long the owner of vegan destination Dragonfly, and his wife Cristin Austin recently reinvented the space as Till.
The new restaurant has a more casual (and walletfriendly) vibe, and while the menu still focuses primarily on vegetables and other plants, some meat-based dishes are offered as well. Plans for Till include an adjacent bakery, opening this spring, a coffee counter and
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a gallery space. “I’m excited to let go and have fun. Dragonfly was awesome but it was a little uptight,” Wolmark said. “Logistically, it’s going to be a whole new ballgame.” The James Beard semifinalist chef doesn’t refer to his kitchen’s guidebooks much anymore, but they’ve been an important part of his culinary journey. Wolmark has made plants the star of his cooking repertoire, and this unique path left him to come up with lesson plans on his own. Wolmark has books about how to combine raw
foods in tasty ways. He has books about preserving that taught him how to get the most out of the vegetables grown in his own garden (his staff recently preserved 100 pounds of tomatoes and 40 pounds of Japanese eggplants). He has books about umami, with tips like marinating portobello mushrooms in red wine and soy sauce before grilling them to really bring out that earthy sixth flavor. The culinary artist filled us in on some of the books that influenced his cooking—and, effectively, his menus.
“Jamie at Home: Cook Your Way to the Good Life” By Jamie Oliver Britain’s Oliver uses ingredients mostly from his garden in this cookbook, particularly helpful for vegetarians looking to use their own produce.
“Designing the New Kitchen Garden: An American Potager Handbook” By Jennifer R. Bartley The author is the landscape architect who designed Dragonfly’s renowned garden, and the book talks about its planning phases and design. Wolmark considers his dedication to vegetable life an investment. “If I were hardcore into cooking meat, I’d be really attached to the animals in some way,” he said. “I’d get to know the producers, I’d go visit them.”
“Cheese: Exploring Taste and Tradition” By Patricia Michelson Wolmark is neither vegan nor vegetarian, but he rarely eats cheese. However, he loves learning about the artisanship required to make it. This tome is a nearly 300-page tribute to just that. The book’s recipe for pissalediere, a popular puff pastry street treat from
Till 247 King Ave., Victorian Village 614-298-9986 tillfare.com
“What I’m most excited for is the gestalt at the new restaurant– to see how every single thing will come together.” Magdiale Wolmark, Chef/owner of Till Southern France, inspired a similar menu item at Dragonfly made with dehydrated local tomatoes and squash in olive oil and herbs.
“The Pasta Bible” By Christian Teubner, Silvio Rizzi and Tan Lee Leng Wolmark flips through this doctrine to get inspired by items like the polenta gnocchi.
“Tamales” By Mark Miller, Stephan Pyles and John Sedlar The book is stuffed with methods for making the corn husk-wrapped treats. “It’s got great ideas about flavor combinations that are really unique,” Wolmark said.
chefs
In class
Figlio owners Peter and Laurie Danis lead a class in North Market’s Dispatch Kitchen; opposite, salmon with corn salsa
teaching kitchen Chef-taught cooking classes offer hungry patrons a new way to dine out Story by Beth Stallings l Photos by Eric Wagner
S
omething’s burning. The aroma of fig and sweet onion pizza that once filled the room is suddenly replaced by a smoky scent. Figlio and Vino Vino owners Peter and Laurie Danis smell it, too,
and they pause from their cooking lesson in the North Market’s Dispatch Kitchen to glance back at the oven. Laurie quickly takes a few steps to the side to pull out a tray of salmon, meant to provide the base for the
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salsa Peter is demonstrating. Looking at the slightly blackened skin, she shrugs it off with an, “Eh, it’s a new oven” chuckle. The 20 onlookers laugh, even though they know they’ll be eating that dish in a matter of minutes. The smiles of the home cooks are understanding—they’ve been there, too. And relieved—even the pros make mistakes. “You learn it’s OK to flub a recipe a bit,” said cooking class student Jennifer Fleishman of the chef-taught class. “And this gives you the confidence to make things you’d never try at home.”
Fleishman signed up for the Dine Originals Chef Series to spice up her recipe arsenal, pick up a cooking trick or two and, hopefully, a few great stories to retell at her next dinner party. Lucky for her, the restaurant owners want the same thing. “There’s a story attached to every recipe and a story attached to every wine,” Peter opened, making it clear this isn’t just a cooking lesson. It’s a view into the Danis’ kitchens, both at the restaurants and at home. “We wanted tonight to be a personal and intimate experience.”
say, ‘I just made your suchand-such.’ It’s great to think you have an impact on somebody’s life in such a meaningful way.”
Building blocks
The Danises shared secrets and told stories. For instance, they haven’t bought bread in three years because of the “life-changing” simple recipe Peter will show tonight. Laurie’s grandmother, who lived to be 106, taught her to freeze a mixture of flour and cut-in butter to give a head start on pie crust. At the restaurant, Figlio’s 800-degree, oak-burning oven hasn’t been turned off in 20 years. And then there’s their lease, with a garlic provision that gives the landlord the right to kick them out if the smell of garlic permeates the office tenants above. Anecdotes are wrapped
in between cooking techniques, forkfuls of food and sips of wine. It’s clear the evening is as much about entertaining as it is about education. It’s this approach to teaching that attracts people to classes instructed by area chefs. Diners are looking for a new twist on eating out. Chefs are looking for a new, lasting way to connect with their customers. “It’s very satisfying to think that something you’ve done has a ripple effect and then can be used for years to come,” said Peter, who’s been teaching classes with his wife off and on for 20 years. “I love when people
At Spagio in Grandview, classes taught by Chef Hubert Seifert have become an annual staple. The themed, demo-style cooking classes were created after constant requests from diners, and they’re too popular to cancel, said restaurant controller Nicole Dinsmoor. “He was going to do a few, but people love them,” said Dinsmoor, Seifert’s daughter. “And he loves them so much. It’s just a great passion to share with others.” Upper Arlington resident Jim Henson has been attending the classes at Spagio’s private dining club, Aubergine, for years. Henson views them more as lifestyle classes—a basic building block, not just to cooking but to entertaining. “As a chef, you know how to cook. But it’s more about taking it to the next level and making it special. It’s about entertaining and showing how things go together,” Henson said. “That’s the
“Don’t be so set on any recipes. Move with them. That’s the secret of anybody who likes to cook.” Peter Danis, owner of Figlio
stuff you don’t get when you go to other classes. It’s the whole concept, from sourcing to preparing to plating to presenting the finished product.” It’s also about getting there in a relaxed way. Formal cooking school classes follow set regimens and include a specific number of recipes to get through in a small amount of time. When restaurant chefs run classes, they have the freedom to offer compact menus and smaller class sizes to give an intimate feel, said Susie Cork, general manager at Shaw’s Restaurant & Inn. For four years at her Lancaster restaurant, Cork has been teaching nearly every Saturday in a remodeled space designed for instruction. For the past three she’s also taught pastry and sushi courses at Sur La Table in Easton, so she understands the difference. “We’re not just blasting through six recipes,” she said. “I emphasize technique for sure. But it’s more informal. I hate the formal, don’t-talk atmosphere. Shout out a question. Let’s have some wine.” Plus, the guarantee with chef-taught classes is you know the teacher knows the basics, said Cork, a classically trained chef. Although, she added, most people aren’t coming for a lesson on technique. People come to learn a new recipe or for something fun to do with a friend. “A cooking class rounds out the experience in a way that reading a book or seeing a picture in a magazine never could. It’s a three-dimensional experience. It’s fun,” said Peter Danis of Figlio. “It sure beats watching TV.”
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chefs
In class
Roll Call Spagio The Class: One hour
of instruction by Spagio chef Hubert Seifert, followed by a fourcourse meal and wine pairings for $75. Topics range from basics such as roasting and braising to themed classes like the French Riviera and 30-minute meals.
Held:
2-4 p.m. Saturdays, April through October
For more:
spagio.com
A look at chef-taught cooking classes around town
The Cooking Studio at Shaw’s The Class: A mix of
demo-style and handson offerings created by general manager Susie Cork. Offerings change with the seasons, with themes like Paris and beer. A served lunch follows. Prices range from $45 to $59.
Held:
10:30 a.m.-12:30 p.m. most Saturdays yearround
For more:
shawsinn.com
North Market Chef Series
The Hills Market
Franklin Park Conservatory
The Class: A two-hour
The Class: Two-hour classes are half cooking demo, half feast, with a communal-style dinner. Guest chef instructors vary from season to season, and have included Anthony Schulz from the Inn and Spa at Cedar Falls and Rick Lopez from Knead, who will teach on Feb. 15. Prices range from $35 to $50.
The Class: A mix of
demo hosted by area chefs, mostly from Dine Originals restaurants such as The Refectory, Alana’s and Barcelona. Up to 24 guests get three courses and wine pairings for $35.
Held:
Twice a month, typically Wednesday evenings, from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m.
For more:
northmarket.com
Held:
hands-on and demonstration classes with rotating themes, from canning to knife skills to French cooking. Instructors rotate as well, from bloggers to area chefs, plus regular instruction by Local Matters chef Laura Robertson-Boyd. Prices vary by class.
Held:
January through April
Year-round. Dates and times vary.
For more:
For more:
thehillsmarket.com
fpconservatory.org
Peter and Laurie Danis of Figlio and Vino Vino 0 0 0 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l S p r i n g 2 0 1 2
An Honest Interpretation of Italian Cuisine
Join Giuseppe’s bartenders for Happy Hour, Monday through Friday 4:30 to 6:30
GIUSEPPE’S INVITES YOU TO COME HAVE A SEAT AT OUR BAR! The bartenders of Giuseppe’s Ritrovo in Bexley have been diligently working to provide the most diverse craft cocktail experience in Columbus. It is our goal to bring the city’s cocktail experience inline with the cocktail renaissance that is currently taking place throughout the country. We are very proud to feature our unique cocktail list.
2268 East Main Street Bexley, OH 43209 (614) 235-4300
www.giuseppesritrovo.com facebook@giusppesritrovobar twitter@giuseppesbexley
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the captain
perfect host In resurrecting Fisherman’s Wharf, longtime restaurateur Niki Chalkias captures dining service the way it should be Story by B et h Sta l l i ng s l P hoto S by Alys ia burton
N
iki Chalkias looks disgusted as a young waiter greets his table with a friendly, “Hey,
folks.” “What is this ‘folks’?” asks the 69-year-old owner of Fisherman’s Wharf through a Greek accent so heavy it’s clear English isn’t his first language. It’s charmingly authentic, yet intimidating when laced with fervor. “Their names are ladies and gentlemen. Good evening, madam. Good evening, sir. I want to hear nothing else.” Each sentence is dotted with a finality that makes it law. Know Niki Chalkias for more than 30 seconds and you’ll understand this passion; why something seemingly as simple as a salutation is enough to upset the veteran restaurateur, who’s opened and closed a handful of eateries in Columbus. Call him demanding. A perfectionist. Tough loving. His family, friends and employees all do. With Chalkias, every detail matters. It’s the details that create the personal experience that brings diners back to this third, more casual incarnation of Fisherman’s Wharf at Polaris, opened in 2010. Just like the previous locations— the original Columbus spot on
Fisherman’s Wharf 1611 Polaris Pkwy., Polaris 614-431-1411 bestgreekusa.com
Morse Road, which opened in 1976, and then in Bexley until 2005—you aren’t walking into a restaurant. You’re entering Chalkias’ 200-seat family dining room. People aren’t customers. They are guests. And Chalkias—or Capt. Niki, as he’s been known for three decades—is your gracious host. It’s not Old-World service, Chalkias insists. It’s the only way service should be. The native of Rhodes island, Greece, says he was brainwashed into this belief during his five years at a Swiss culinary school. French instructors there taught him two lessons he still carries with him: First, there is only No. 1 in this industry. To succeed, you must have the best skills and buy the best products. Second, Chalkias’ culinary school mentor told Niki it didn’t matter if he owned the finest restaurant with gold plates and crystal glasses. “If the first bite is no good,” he said, “everything you have is nothing.” These lessons are the reason Chalkias was one of the first Columbus chefs to insist on sourcing authentic extra-virgin olive oils and fresh herbs to season his Mediterranean-style seafood with a Greek accent. He was part of a small group of culinary minds, the likes of which included Kent Rigsby running Lindey’s at the time, who brought this standard here in the 1970s—long before it would become the norm. “He had a big impact,” said Yanni’s Greek Grill owner Ioannis
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Left and right, the original Fisherman’s Wharf on Morse Road; center, Niki Chalkias at wife Gina’s U.S. citizenship hearing; far right, Niki at the Bexley location in the mid-’90s
Niki Chalkias at Fisherman’s Wharf with daughter Maria and son John
“He’s a good-hearted man, a very hard-working man, and he makes sure everybody works as hard as him.” John Chalkias, Niki Chalkias’ son S p r i n g 2 0 1 2 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l 5 5
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the captain
Niki Chalkias prepares a shrimp dish in the kitchen at Fisherman’s Wharf
No Stopping Niki Chalkias attempted retirement only once— closing the Morse Road Fisherman’s Wharf in 1991, when he reached his mid-50s. He thought retirement was expected at that age, so he closed up and moved back to Greece. His hiatus lasted only two years. He was soon back and opening more restaurants in Columbus with his family. But this newest location of Fisherman’s Wharf is his last stop, he insists. This is where he started, and this is where he’ll end. “He’s been trying to retire for 20 years,” joked his son, John. “Then what happens? He opens up another restaurant. His love and passion won’t let him retire.”
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Minatsis, who worked for Chalkias for 17 years. “He was a role model. Other people [both Greek and in fine dining] saw how successful he was and started to follow.” Niki helped Minatsis open his own Greek restaurant on Cleveland Avenue. He offered advice to dozens more chefs. He’s employed more than 60 relatives at his restaurants, including his children, John and
Maria. His children are now partners at his other eateries, Big Fat Greek Kuzina and Feta Greek Kuzina. Opened in 2005 and 2007, respectively, the two offer traditional Greek cuisine. More than anything, this is a family business. “I like to say I went from the birth canal right to the dish tank,” jokes Maria Chalkias, who, like her brother, has been working at
the restaurants her whole life. Outside the kitchen, the children carry on their father’s hospitality. If Niki isn’t checking on your table after the second bite, it’s one of them. “When somebody walks into your home, which is here, you have to make sure they love everything,” Maria said. “When people come into your home, you treat them like family.” In the kitchen, Niki’s
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Old World German Bakery & Restaurant
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Experience the stunning variety of fresh seafood, steak, and pasta selections at Rivage Atlantique
Backerei & Konditorei
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In German Village for Over 40 Years! facebook:JuergensSweets • Wifi Available Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner & Dessert
525 S. 4th Street, Columbus OH • (614) 224-6858
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the captain
Clockwise from left, Dover Sole, Stuffed Flounder, Seafood Pasta
good notes The only thing that could have lured Niki Chalkias out of the kitchen is singing. The restaurateur put himself through culinary school working both in kitchens and singing at local nightclubs. He sang in Bermuda while working as a hotel chef, appearing in lineups in the late 1960s with the likes of Tom Jones. During the ’70s and ’80s he released two albums under a small Greek label. “He has a beautiful voice,” said his son John. “He’s a tenor with a Greek R&B style.” Now, Niki sings to relieve stress, taking long drives with the windows down, belting Greek tunes.
wife Gina, a trained Greek chef with a focus in pastry, crafts all of the desserts. Maria designs the cocktails. Recipes are first tested
in a second kitchen that was installed in the basement of Chalkias’ home for this very purpose. The whole family tinkers
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with dishes there—going through roughly a dozen versions of each recipe before it’s taken to the restaurant, where chefs tweak a little more. “We work differently because we are a family,” Niki said. “We cook with our hearts and nothing else.” A love for what he does has never been a problem. Chalkias knew at the age of 12 that restaurants were where he wanted to be. He grew up surrounded by food. His father ran a grocery; his mother, a brilliant cook, taught him to blend spices. One of seven children, he grew up on a small farm overlooking the water in Greece. Caught in the spell of the kitchen, he would brag, “I’m going to be a big chef someday.” Passion still rolls off Chalkias like steam off a hot plate. He holds
his thick hands to the breast of his black chef coat. He taps his chest, then points out to plates, gestures to the walls of the restaurant, decorated in a stressed brown that conjures the feel of a sunken ship. “Our food is the finest in the world,” he said. “We make everything different than everybody else. Our cooking is personal. It comes from the heart.” It’s not jargon. Niki means every word he says. He pounds on the table, giving even the glasses a start, as he says, “We only buy the best.” That means lobster tails from Australia. Langoustines from South America. “Anything in life, when you’re doing it with meaning and passion it’s going to be better,” his daughter Maria said, explaining what makes their seafood differ-
ent. “My dad cooks with his heart. That’s the main ingredient missing when people cook. You have to have a love for food.” Sitting in the side room of the restaurant, Niki is sought out by a couple on their way out—the man is a frequent diner at Fisherman’s Wharf; the woman a firsttimer. They compliment the day’s special. She tells him what a hidden gem he has here among the sea of chain restaurants surrounding a shopping mall. They say they will be back again and hug Niki like they’re old friends. Taking a seat at the head of a table, Niki folds his hands on his chest and sighs with a quiet, “That’s nice.” He looks up and says a little louder, “That is what I want. When they leave, I want them to have a smile on their face.”
COLUMBUS’ MOST
CRAVEABLE
House of Japan Hibachi Steakhouse & Sushi Bar
RESTAURANTS
BravoItalian.com Hayden Run Lennox Town Center Crosswoods
Bon-Vie.com EastonTown Center
Private Event Room Available. Flaming onion volcano, shrimp tails flying, table-side cooking, and chefs performing tricks are just some of the unique experiences you’ll have while dining at the House of Japan.
DUBLIN
POLARIS
6153 Parkcenter Circle 8701 Sancus Blvd. Dublin, OH 43017 Columbus, OH 43240 614-792-2445 614-781-1776
www.houseofjapanohio.com
BrioItalian.com Easton Town Center Polaris Fashion Place
dates
Tables for 2
recipe for
romance Story by s h e l l e y M a nn
Nothing inspires romance quite like an intimate dinner date. There’s just something magical about it: the candlelight, the grazing of knees and elbows, a shared dessert. But sitting at any old table isn’t going to cut it. The most romantic tables are far enough away from fellow diners to allow for clandestine conversation. They’re situated next to roaring fireplaces. They have curtains that can be drawn shut to allow for complete privacy. Here are four of the city’s best. 6 0 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l S p r i n g 2 0 1 2
Photo: alysia burton
Hyde Park 1615 Old Henderson Rd., Upper Arlington Of the three Hyde Park steakhouses in Columbus, the original in Upper Arlington is widely acknowledged to be the most romantic. The restaurant is divided up into several cozy dining rooms, each with its own fireplace. Everyone has their own favorite place to sit, says manager Jonathan Legato. “We have a lot of different nooks and crannies.� Make reservations to celebrate an anniversary and you’ll be treated to rose petals and candles. Proposals are toasted with champagne. And on Fridays and Saturdays, a live jazz band provides a soundtrack for the evening.
dates
Tables for 2
McCormick & Schmick’s 3695 New Bond St., Easton Curtains that can be—and often are—drawn shut are what set these booths apart from the pack. The Easton seafood spot attracts four to five couples celebrating anniversaries every weekend night, says private dining coordinator Sarah Stout. Menus are printed twice daily, and can be personalized to commemorate special occasions: “We’ll put ‘Happy Anniversary, Sherry and Jack.’'
Photo: alysia burton
Kihachi 2667 Federated Blvd., Dublin The magic of tatami dining is in the ritual. In these Japanese dining rooms steeped in tradition, couples sit on thick straw tatami mats at a lowset table as they feast on a leisurely multi-course meal. It’s a peaceful and serene experience, thanks especially to the complete privacy afforded by rolling-shut doors. At Kihachi, it’s best to order lots of dishes for sharing—each plate prepared by Kihachi’s brilliant chef Mike Kimura is guaranteed to delight the senses.
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Photo: will shilling
SHARED PLATES
I
f images of a little fat guy fluttering about in a flimsy diaper trying to shoot everybody with a tiny bow and arrow don’t exactly put you in the mood for a romantic Valentine’s Day, then do what I do: Turn to food. Better yet, turn to a meal designed for two. —G.A. Benton
Sushi for Two dinner at AOI Sushi ($53) 878 Bethel Rd., Northwest Side aoibluebar.com It arrives on a visually riveting carved wooden bridge you definitely want to cross, and nibbling on this stunner can really ratchet up the passion. Spanning along its archway is a colorful smorgasbord of beautiful sushi and sashimi like silky hamachi nigiri, salmon with Philly cream cheese and spicy tuna maki rolls. Meet your mate in the middle, where the meal’s elaborate centerpiece—the Volcano Roll—radiates out like a stacked-high and thrilling amusement park ride. Ooh and aah as you work past its crispy salmon tempura rolls up to its California rolls draped in fresh avocado. Rich, sweet and spicy sauces accompany a climb to delicious grilled fish. Atop this—in a lava-like, flame-red burst of fish roe—the Volcano roll culminates, but your evening has just found a little fire.
Chateaubriand for Two at Eddie Merlot’s ($85) 1570 Polaris Pkwy., Polaris eddiemerlots.com By the time this huge hunk of prime, filet mignon-like love is wheeled out and carved tableside by the waiter, you and your date will likely be delirious with meat fever. Let slicing through the beef’s delightfully charred and salty crust to find a warm and beautifully tender center be a guide for the rest of your night. Comes with tangy bearnaise sauce and two sides, like great Brussels sprouts and Eddie’s Potatoes. Bon appetit, lovebirds.
Tuesdays nights: Wednesday nights:
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Italian Plate from Moretti’s of Arlington ($21) 2124 Tremont Ctr., Upper Arlington morettisofarlington.com Whisked out on a serving platter and sprinkled with heart-like sauteed red pepper bits, mushrooms and onions, this is practically a Valentine to handmade and easy-to-love old-school favorites. It contains logs of crackly battered zucchini, seared Italian sausages, spaghetti with a lusty red sauce, a large raviolo with sweet ricotta stuffing and a simple but perfect Chicken Francaise. From the pasta to the sausages, it’s all homemade and served with a side of amore.
The Wine Room at Luce
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dates
Tables for 2
DeepWood 511 N. High St., Short North Round booths demand couples sit next to each other—perfect for hand-holding and seductive whispers. They help keep conversations private. And they trick you into believing you’re the only two people in the world. At DeepWood, owner Amber Herron says, couples celebrating anniversaries are treated to special flower arrangements, a handwritten note from the staff, and a tasting of housemade ice creams as a sweet ending to the meal. Photo: will shilling
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NEED LIQUOR LAW TRAINING? ALCOHOL COMPLIANCE CHECKS? HOW ABOUT AN UNDERCOVER SHOPPER?
FETA GREEK KUZINA Tradional, Fresh Greek
good food. ood good w wine. ne good people. eo le
We don’t have customers... we have friends and family! Family owned and operated since 1970
We work for you to check employee performance. (We customize our services to fit your needs.)
Call (330) 659-2255
Homemade Pastitsio, Baklava, Moussaka, & More!
or E-Mail
1839 WINDERLY LN. PICKERINGTON, OH. OH
info@ohioliquorlawconsulting.com
www.OhioLiquorLawConsulting.com
Owned by Maria, John, Gina, & Nikki
614.864.3382 (Drive Thru Available)
www.bestgreekusa.com
Gluten Free Options | Vegan | Organic |Vegetarian | Chemical Free
614.751.6467
1282 Hill Rd. N.Pickerington, OH www.senorpatron.com
COME AND TRY OUR AUTHENTIC MEXICAN CUISINE Happy Hour 3-7pm • Great Specials • Catering Services
614.785.6199
1047 Polaris Pkwy Columbus, OH www.senortequilaspolaris.com
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Iconic Eats
Photo by Wi ll s h i ll i n g
The Thurmanator Thurman’s man-vs.-food masterpiece is probably the city’s most famous dish. That’s not to say it’s our most beloved—there are just as many detractors as there are fans of this massive burger, with its 24 ounces of ground beef, bacon, ham, three kinds of cheese, etc., etc. But the enduring legacy of the dare-you-to-eat-it-all Thurmanator Challenge will ensure the pub’s lines stay perpetually long.
Thurman Cafe 183 Thurman Ave., German Village 614-443-1570 thethurmancafe.com 6 8 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l S p r i n g 2 0 1 2
Only in Columbus Crave celebrates our city’s
signature dishes Story by sh e ll ey M ann
C
olumbus isn’t synonymous with one particular dish the way Cincinnati is with chili, or Chicago is with deep-dish, or Philly is with cheesesteak. But that doesn’t mean we’re lacking dishes that scream Columbus. They’re the plates you can’t order anywhere else in the country. The sandwiches you grew up eating. The bites you show off to out-of-town visitors. The stuff you’d pine after if you ever moved away. They’re what restaurants brag about via menu declarations: “Home of the World Famous PastaSalvi!” “Enjoy the legendary Mother Mohawk!” We whittled the list of only-inColumbus dishes down to our favorite dozen. Finalists made the cut for numerous reasons, from having a fantastic name (like the Village Addiction) to being downright addictive (Marcella’s veal meatball).
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Iconic Eats Photo by jo di mi ll er
PastaSalvi Almost every dish at Salvi’s Italian bistro comes with a side of the deep-fried pasta treat, and you can also order it as an appetizer. It’s basically a brick of breaded and deep-fried cheesy egg noodles. The creamy-insidecrunchy-outside specialty can be ordered plain, but we highly recommend asking for it topped with chunky tomato sauce and melted provolone.
Salvi’s Bistro 5000 Upper Metro Pl., Dublin 614-874-0466 salvisbistro.com
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Monte Carlo Italian Kitchen
Homemade Traditional Italian for over 40 years
Vegetar
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luten-F ian and G
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NEAN ERRA T I D E LIVE! EST M BY A HE B 1 T 1 F 0 2 EO AND D ON 2985 N. High St. 2010 S VOTE T N URA Clintonville, OH 43202 A T S RE
www.lavashcafe.com
614.263.7777
Catering - Lunch - Dinner Dine In or Take Out
v a o N l a l Vi
Ristorante
Serving great food for over 30 years!
610 West Schrock Road • Westerville, Ohio
(614) 890-2061
www.montecarloitaliankitchen.com Closed Sunday
• Pizza • Pasta • Subs • Appetizers • Salads • dinners Open Daily at 11:00 5545 N. High St. • Columbus
(614) 846-5777 • www.villanovacolumbus.com
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Iconic Eats
Photo by Wi ll s h i ll i n g
Bahama Mama Tourists love this family-owned German Village spot, and they also love the Bahama Mama. The spicy smoked sausage is a heavily seasoned combo of beef and pork stuffed into natural casing. Fun fact: A Schmidt’s family member named these guys after a particularly lovely trip to the Bahamas in the 1960s. The grilled links taste best on a toasted split-top sandwich bun dressed with some spicy mustard and horseradish.
Schmidt’s Restaurant und Sausage Haus 240 E. Kossuth St., German Village 614-444-6808 schmidthaus.com 7 2 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l S p r i n g 2 0 1 2
& Tea House
Europe inspired. Locally handmade.
www.viennaicecafe.com 2899 N. High St.
614-227-0441
A A TASTE TASTE OF OF EUROPE EUROPE Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Pastries, Wine & More
sandwiches & more
FREE Delivery Downtown until 11am 614.227.0070 Mon-Fri: 10am – 4pm Sat: 12pm – 4pm www.sisenorlatinfusion.com 20 East Long St. Columbus, OH 43215 Catering Available
Stauf’s Coffee Turkey al Jugo Cream of Corn Soup
MOZART’S CAFE 2885 N. High St. Columbus, OH 43202
614.268.3687
www.mozartscafe.com
Perfect combo for the season
Your Amigo Card! sandwiches & more
Visit us 5 times and order a Sandwich, Large Salad or Special of the Day and get $5.00 OFF in your next purchase. 1 Stamp per visit.
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Iconic Eats Photo by jo di mi l l e r
Hangover sandwich This genuine retro diner’s Hangover sandwich is more fun to order than it is effective at curing hangovers. And that’s exactly why it made our list: What Upper Arlington kid didn’t grow up ordering this riff on a bacon cheeseburger (it’s basically a deluxe cheeseburger topped with a thick slice of griddled ham)? Ask for it with crinklecut fries and an ice-cold Cherry Coke in the case of an actual hangover emergency.
Chef-O-Nette 2090 Tremont Ctr., Upper Arlington 614-488-8444 chefonette.com
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Make Your Valentine’s Day Even Sweeter. We have an amazing selection of craft beers, wine, and specialty spirits.
3600 Indianola Avenue, Columbus (Clintonville)
(614) 267-9878
FINE MEATS
FRESH SEAFOOD
weilandsgourmetmarket.com M-F 10-7:30 • Saturday 9-7 • Sunday 11-5
A Columbus Tradition Since 1961
We’re known worldwide for our burgers, but we have some awesome apps, wings, subs & sandwiches too. Try us once, and you’ll never be able to Stave Off The Crave
Polaris/ Westerville 2127 Polaris Parkway Across from Old Germain Ampitheatre
(614) 547-0246
Worthington/ CampusView
7475 Vantage Dr. At Rt. 23 & I-270
(614) 781-0751
www.elacapulcorestaurant.com
(614) 443-1570 183 Thurman Ave.
StaveOffTheCrave.com
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Iconic Eats
Photo by Wi ll s h i ll i n g
Braised Veal Meatball Famed restaurateur Cameron Mitchell proved he knows his way around ground beef with the Cap City Diner Meatloaf, topped with onion rings and sitting atop a cloud of mashed potatoes. He upped the ante at Marcella’s. To hell with ground beef or pork—this thing is 100 percent tender, luscious veal. You can order it on top of pasta, but it’s best in its unadulterated appetizer form, served in a mini crock and dressed in tomato sauce.
Marcella’s 615 N. High St., Short North 1319 Polaris Pkwy., Polaris marcellasristorante.com
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Iconic Eats
Photo by Alys i a B urto n
The Village Addiction Get your turkey-and-cranberries fix yearround thanks to this bohemian deli’s brilliant cranberry mayo, the starring ingredient on their No. 7 sandwich, the Village Addiction. That sweet sauce is spread thick on grilled sourdough, and it pairs beautifully with slices of smoked turkey (way better than your average deli meat) and Havarti.
Brown Bag Deli 898 Mohawk St., German Village 614-443-4214 thebrownbaggv.com
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• Hotcakes • French Toast • Omelettes • Breakfast Sandwiches Notarization of documents Taxes for small businesses, contractors and subcontractors ITIN application along with your Tax Return for reimbursement and recovery even for those who are up to 3 years behind on their taxes MON-SAT 10AM-6PM • SUN 12PM-4PM
(614) 276-8078 • (614) 607-9616
4323 Westland Mall Columbus, OH 43228
• Burgers • Sandwiches • Salads
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Iconic Eats
Photo by j odi mil l er
Whoa Nellie! All the novelty dogs at this hipster hangout have clever monikers, but only one is named after a Columbus rock band. The Whoa Nellie’s topped with pulled beef brisket and drizzled in barbecue sauce and got its name from restaurateur Elizabeth Lessner, who calls herself a “huge fan” of frontman Bob Ray Starker. The shout-out is especially fitting at Dirty Frank’s, where the jukebox is filled entirely with songs from local bands.
Dirty Frank’s Hot Dog Palace 248 S. Fourth St., Downtown 614-824-4673 dirtyfrankscolumbus.com
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Weddings & Receptions Rehearsal Dinners Bridal Showers Post-Wedding Brunch
Get 10% OFF with this coupon
Kimchi Mandoo Soup
Private parties for up to 70 guests
1138 Bethel Rd. Columbus, OH 43220 www.sansubbq.com
614.273.0188 Join us on
Tofu Teriyaki
Steeped in tradition and alive with classic Worthington warmth and charm, The Worthington Inn has provided a distinctive event site for over 30 years.
entree
Iconic Eats
Photo by jo di mi l l e r
55 Salad The secret to this salad’s in the sweettart dressing. Polaris Grill’s house salad is a holdover from the now defunct 55 Restaurant Group (where Cameron Mitchell earned his chops). The 55 dressing is nice and garlicky, but a hefty hit of sugar is what makes it especially devourable when poured over baby greens, bacon, blue cheese, red onions and tomatoes.
Polaris Grill 1835 Polaris Pkwy., Polaris 614-431-5598 polarisgrill.com
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Brews Cafe in Beautiful Downtown Granville
Coming Soon!
Newly expanded and remodeled dining room!
KING GYROS GREEK RESTAURANT 400 S. HAMILTON RD. WHITEHALL 866-9008 •
WWW.KINGGYROS.COM
CASA
SAZ N
Your favorite neighborhood place is also available for your next event! • Weddings • Rehearsals • Engagement Parties • Showers Call for details!
116 E. Broadway • Granville, OH
(740) 616-6345
brewscafe.com brews.morgan@gmail.com
Cachapas:
• Gluten Free! • Homemade, always fresh, never frozen, no chemicals • meat, veggie or cheese *Ask about our House Specialties
Pabellon Venezolano • Arepas • Burritos • Fried Plantains • Subs, Salads, Soups
*Call ahead to pick up your order! Joinn us Joi us oonn
Monday - Friday, 7am - 3:30pm Saturday & Sunday - closed
49 North High St. (614) 221-8311
Just south of Gay St. Plenty of meter parking
entree
Iconic Eats
Photo by W i ll sh i ll ing
Buckeye sandwich Columbus is the epicenter of Buckeye Nation, which explains our collective fondness for buckeye candies—and tendency to tack the name Buckeye onto anything with that familiar chocolate-peanut butter combo. One of our favorites is Krema Nut Company’s Buckeye sandwich. Krema’s been making all-natural nut butters since 1898, and they serve gourmet PB&Js from behind a retro sandwich counter at their Grandview factory. The Buckeye pairs Krema’s incomparable peanut butter with a layer of Nutella chocolate hazelnut spread.
Krema Nut Company 1000 W. Goodale Blvd., Grandview 614-299-4131 krema.com
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NAMED TOP 100 IN ALL OF AMERICA - 2011 OpenTable, Top 100 Restaurants Overall
RESTAURANT & BISTRO 1092 BETHEL ROAD, COLUMBUS 43220 614-451-9774 REFECTORY.COM
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Iconic Eats
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Photo by Alysia Burton
Mother Mohawk This sandwich starts with a fairly standard deli order—roast beef and Swiss on marble rye. Then things get kinda crazy with the addition of a scoop of Old Mohawk’s housemade chicken salad (a refreshingly old-school mayo-heavy version with just a bit of celery) and a zesty caraway horseradish sauce for dipping. It’s one of those great “who ever thought that would taste good together” sandwiches, with an end result that’s similar to a kicked-up tuna melt.
The Old Mohawk 819 Mohawk St., German Village 614-444-7204 theoldmohawk.com
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Iconic Eats Photo by jo di mi l l e r
Tapatio Margarita Give it a few years and Knead’s crazy-good fried chicken sandwich, The Motherclucker, will earn its rightful spot on this list (the diner’s signs already urge “try our famous Motherclucker”). In the meantime, we toast a more seasoned Knead offering, the Tapatio Margarita. It’s a boozy relic hailing from the beloved Latin-fusion spot where chef/owner Rick Lopez once worked.
Knead 505 N. High St., Short North 614-228-6323; kneadonhigh.com
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Ode to the
Johnny Marzetti
Story by j i l l m o o r h ea d
BREAKING: Johnny Marzetti, that beloved casserole we Columbusites clasp close to our hearts—and our culinary heritage—may not have any connection to the Downtown restaurant we often claim to have founded the dish. The folks at Marzetti (who’d rather be remembered for their coleslaw sauce) have tried and failed to find a direct connection between their namesake restaurants and the famous dish. Lack of historical documentation be damned: The after-school smell of ground beef browning on the stove conjures memories for gen-
erations of Midwest children. And it’s still on the menu of many a Capital City institution, from the Huntington Park press box to mainstays Ann & Tonys and Villa Nova. In short, it’s ours. When you look at the ingredients, it makes sense that the post-war dish is thought to hail from Columbus. Everything can be sourced, inexpensively, from within 20 miles of our city: ground beef, sausage, green pepper, tomato, onion and pasta noodles. Each batch is as different as its cook. An updated version can be found at Knead, not too far from where the original Marzetti restaurants were once filled with pasta-loving diners. Chef Rick Lopez’s Turkey Marzetti swaps poultry for ground beef and miniature lasagna noodles, made by hand from local eggs, for macaroni noodles. The purpose of this comfort dish on his menu? To represent Columbus. “It does really well, even though I think that there’s a lost generation that has no idea what Johnny Marzetti is,” Lopez said. “When you’re as old as I am, everybody knows it.”
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Iconic Eats
Photo by Alys i a B urto n
One Night in Bangkok There’s lots to love about ice cream queen Jeni Britton Bauer. What we love most is how she dreams up the kinds of flavors nobody would ever expect to come out of Columbus, Ohio. Her playful and often exotic approach to dessert is embodied in this sundae, a staple at Jeni’s shops. Scoops of coconut-and-cayenne-spiked Bangkok Peanut ice cream are garnished with banana spears and Spanish peanuts, covered in caramel sauce and handwhipped cream, and embellished with an actual waffle-cone fortune cookie.
Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams Multiple locations jenisicecreams.com
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The Big Fat Greek Kuzina Old Fashion, Traditional, Fresh Greek
Now Open in Clintonville
We are not just Gyros. Full Authentic Greek Restaurant.
vegan • vegetarian • Gluten Free
Family owned and operated since 1970 Owned by Maria, John, Gina, & Nikki
The only Gourmet Pizzeria in Columbus that delivers.
945 N. High St Complete Menu 5060 N. High St. Short North www.zpizza.com Clintonville 614-299-3289 614-885-0101
Homemade Pastitsio, Baklava, Moussaka, & More!
The Big Fat Greek Kuzina 2816 Fishinger Rd. Columbus, OH.
614.457.4753
WWW.BESTGREEKUSA.COM
Special Valentine’s Day Show Tuesday, February 14th, 2012 at 7:30pm Come Celebrate Valentine’s Day at Cloak and Dagger Dinner Theatre
Written and Directed by
ouple Each C ive a ce will re entary im compl ose! red r
Cloak & Dagger
Reserve online at www.cloakdagger.com or Call (614) 842-2583
Steve Emerson Music by
Heather Green Cummings
entree
Square Meals Story by j i m E l l is o n
Square slices. Need we say more? What’s the deal with pizza in Columbus?
O
ur thin-crust interpretation with cornmeal-dusted bottom puzzles people. Pizza purists are perplexed by the presence of provolone on our pies. New Yorkers hunt for a thick ring of outer crust but instead
Iconic Eats find sauce stretching right to the edge. Most bothersome? How we cut our pizzas. Why cut a round pizza into square pieces rather than triangles? Pizza sliced in rectangular form is also known as taverncut pie, a style characterized by an ultra-thin, crackery crust. It’s epidemic in the Midwest—you’ll find it as far east as Steubenville and as far west as St. Louis. Columbus oral history suggests square slices were easier than triangles to slide into a paper bag, the mode of pizza transportation before cardboard boxes. Today, you’ll find classic archetypes of Columbus-style pizza at Donatos, Massey’s and Rubino’s, while hundreds of other pizzerias serve some variation on square-cut pie.
Pepperoni pizza from Massey’s Photo: jodi miller
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A look at the pizza pioneers who created Columbus’ distinct style
1929
Pizza was around in Columbus far earlier than many would guess—the first slice was served at TAT Ristorante di Familia in 1929. TAT was named for the first national airline, Transcontinental Air Transport, which took off just before the Corrova family opened for business in Flytown (present-day Short North).
1941
1950s
Jimmy Corrova, current patriarch of TAT, enters the family business, standing on a pop crate so he can reach the register. TAT’s pizza was “one-inch thick with hand-crushed tomatoes, four slices of American cheese and basil,” baked in a pie pan then tossed onto a hearth to crisp.
1949
In Whitehall, the Massuci family changes their name to Massey and brothers Jim and Dan start serving pizza there. The Masseys later teamed with Romeo Siri and Guido Casa to open the first Columbus pizzeria, Romeo’s.
Pepperoni, provolone and other pizza essentials debut during this era. Guido Casa partners with others to open several Italian restaurants during the ‘50s, and became known as the “Godfather of Pizza” for launching the careers of countless Capital City pizza-makers.
1952
Thomas Iacono starts tossing pizza at Tommy’s on Lane, a Campus landmark these days, using family recipes from Italy.
1954
Ruben Cohen opens Rubino’s in Bexley. Reminiscences from newspaper columnist Bob Green about his teenage years spent at Rubino’s cements the pizzeria as an icon in Bexley and beyond.
1963
Jim Grote purchases his family’s pizza business as a college sophomore. His father tells him “pizza is a fad that won’t last.” Grote decides the name Donatos had more appeal than Grote’s. Today, hundreds of Donatos serve Columbus-style pizza.
! d e k c get clu lucker
Cometry our Mother C Come
Modern Diner Classic Cocktails 505 N High St. Columbus 614.228.6323
www.kneadonhigh.com
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FEATURING DAILY LUNCH & DINNER SPECIALS German Village 197 Thurman Ave. 614.444.EASY
n i s b u S Best e l l i v n o t n i Cl
Powell 5 South Liberty St. 614.888.EASY
SUBS AVAILABLE UNTIL CLOSE!
OPEN FOR LUNCH DAILY SPECIALS
590 OAKLAND PARK (IN CLINTONVILLE)
614-261-9355
The Rossi White Cosmo 895 N. High St., Short North 614-299-2810 rossibarandkitchen.com
Spot on The official cocktail of the ’90s is all grown up. Rossi’s perfectly refreshing White Cosmo is sweet but not sugary, and gets its signature hue from white grape juice in place of the traditional cranberry. Each vodka drink is dressed up with an exotic fruit garnish—whatever’s at the market that day, perhaps a piece of star fruit or this striking slice of dragon fruit. Story by S h el l e y M a nn l Ph oto by j o d i m i l l er
drink
seasonal
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Haute Chocolate Indulge in fancy hot cocoas and chilled dessert martinis Story by Jill Moorhead l Photo by Alysia Burton
M
aking great hot chocolate is not a simple task— it goes way beyond dumping a packet of utility-grade cocoa and miniature marshmallows into a cup of hot water. A former roommate and mother to a five-year-old first taught me to make perfect hot chocolate. Add cocoa powder and a teaspoon of sugar to slowly simmering milk; the drink is done precisely when a fine layer of skin appears atop the mixture. Her method creates a hot drink that brings warmth
and peace to even the most frigid and tumultuous day. While this base recipe stands the test of time, countless upgrades are available in Columbus eateries. Our city’s best chocolate drinks—hot and cold—have the power to entice us to stumble out of our homes in the depths of February. This is no easy task. Punched up with everything from espresso to booze to habanero syrup, these chocolate drinks will temporarily take you away from the cold rain, snow and ice and to a new cozy place.
Jubilee Hot Chocolate taste exactly like a chocolate-covered cherry. Topped with whipped cream and milk chocolate flakes, the beverage is one of several chocolate-themed drinks found in the Upper Arlington dessert venue. There are martinis, too, including the Dirty Girl Scout (essentially a grown-up Thin Mint).
Askinosie Hot Chocolate
$4.80 at Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream shops in Clintonville and Powell Our hometown ice cream parlor’s Askinosie Hot Chocolate couldn’t be more premium. Made with Askinosie chocolate (a company boasting that their ethical standards in sourcing chocolate make them leaps and bounds beyond fair trade) and whole milk from Athens County’s Snowville Creamery, this drink is the locavore and socially conscious chocolate lover’s dream beverage. The excellent winter warmer is frothed together using the store’s espresso machine and topped with hand-whipped Snowville heavy cream.
Identification required: Whole Latte Love
$9 at Latitude 41 and Bar 41 Latitude 41’s drink menu is duplicated in the adjacent Bar 41. With competing sounds of jazz and sports on the television, the cozy bar has something for everyone—including chocolate. At first sip, Whole Latte Love tastes like equal parts espresso and vodka, with a hint of chocolate that comes out as the drink warms to room temperature. Keep this in mind as you imbibe: Coffee makes for an awake drunk. (Lesson brought to you by D.A.R.E.)
For the whole family:
Al-Cachino
$4 at the Northstar Cafes in Short North and Beechwold
Knead’s atmosphere does not scream “fancy drinks.” Rather, its bright colors and rotating dessert case filled with sweet temptations are more reminiscent of the Double R Diner in “Twin Peaks.” A second glance will reveal the restaurant’s commitment to seasonal and local is as consistent at the bar as it is in the kitchen. A constant on the drink menu, Al-Cachino was invented by a Yoohoo-loving regular. The drink, a mature version of the kids’ drink, is chocolate milk spiked with espresso vodka, chocolate liqueur and a quarter-inch of delicate frothy foam from organic egg whites.
Northstar Hot Chocolate Northstar Hot Chocolate’s balanced flavors blend together for one singular experience. Not an easy task when considering the players involved: Callebaut chocolate; a spice mix of cinnamon, salt, chipotle pepper and cane sugar; and whipped cream with essences of both vanilla and maple syrup. Enjoy the beverage on the couch in front of the restaurant’s signature magazine collection and pretend like you have a subscription to every food publication in existence (and the time to read them).
Cherry Jubilee Hot Chocolate $3.75 at Chocolate Cafe
Chocolate Cafe is a franchise of Indiana-based chocolatier The South Bend Chocolate Company. And that knowledge of one-afteranother, pop-in-your-mouth chocolates is what makes their Cherry
$11 at Knead
Spicy Chocolate Martini $9 at Sage American Bistro
The first taste of the North Campus bistro’s Spicy Chocolate Martini brings sweet on the tongue and fire to the throat. Power through the multi-textured cayenne-cocoa-and-sugar rimmer, and the result is a well-balanced cocktail where the cream counteracts heat provided by cayenne and a house-made habanero syrup, and the vanilla vodka and chocolate liqueur steal the show. S p r i n g 2 0 1 2 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l 9 7
beer
trend
Love wine as much as
We Do? [ Columbus’ Wine Destination ]
A kick in the can Celebrated suds are turning up in suddenly cool beer cans Story by G. A . B enton l Photo by Jodi Miller
I
used to pity beer cans. Though endowed with enviable assets—shatterproof and impervious to air and light, they keep suds fresher and therefore safer from skunky flaws than bottles do—cans nonetheless got mired in a coarse and downscale image. Forced into underprivileged, bargain-basementlike outerwear, cans rarely ran with the glamorous six-packs, and more often hung out with the lowly swills of beer society. You might’ve noticed things are changing. In our increasingly enlight-
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35 N. High St. Dublin OH | 614.792.3466 | tuccisbistro.com
0 0 0 Mon-Fri: l C o11AM-2:30PM lumbusC r av e . C O M l S p r i n g 2 0 1 2 LUNCH | DINNER .PO 5IS 1. t 'SJ 4BU 1. ] $-04&% 4VOEBZT
Cans are easier to stack, store, transport and recycle, translating into real energy savings
ened carbon-fuel-consuming times, top-tier breweries are capitalizing on other advantages cans enjoy over bottles. Being substantially lighter and comparatively compact, they’re more easily stacked, stored and transported—translating into real energy savings. Other positives result from the fact that crushable cans are more simply, completely and frequently recycled. Toss in modern “liners� that eliminate metallic aftertastes, factor in upturning palates in a downturned economy, and you’ll understand why celebrated ales and lagers in formerly humble cans are suddenly as cool and in demand as dressed up French fries and fancified sliders. That’s why high-profile imports and great American microbrews have been turning up in flashy metal containers—with fun approaches to graphics and branding—at local hotspots like these.
Ace of Cups
2619 N. High St., North Campus
Metal Heads ($3-$4):
Oranjeboom (light Dutch lager), Brooklyn Lager, 21st Amendment Back in Black IPA, Bitburger (German pilsner)
Brew & Chew Duet:
This comfy and unique music club’s almostfamous pot roast nachos match well with lighter quaffs like Oranjeboom or Bitburger.
Harvest Pizzeria
495 S. Fourth St., German Village
Metal Heads ($4):
Avery White Rascal (Colorado witbier), Anderson Valley Boont (California amber ale), 21st Amendment Brew Free or Die IPA
Brew & Chew Duet:
The cilantro, jalapeno, chorizo and roasted peppers on the Spicy Yuma pizza are simpatico with the terrific 21st Amendment’s bright citrus and faint pineapple notes.
Hubbard Grill
793 N. High St., Short North
Metal Heads ($4-$5):
Oranjeboom, Heineken, Brooklyn Lager, Guinness
Brew & Chew Duet:
This snazzy Short Norther’s very nice fried chicken dinner (with crispy Brussels sprouts and grits—just $10 on Tuesday nights) finds a crisp and hoppy palate-cleansing partner in Brooklyn Lager.
The Jury Room
22 E. Mound St., Downtown
Metal Heads ($3-$4):
Guinness, Whitkirk’s Belgium, Tallgrass IPA, Avery Ellie’s Brown Ale, Oranjeboom, Cain’s Dark Mild and Finest Bitter (from Liverpool, England)
Brew & Chew Duet:
Chocolate and bitter flavors from Cain’s thirst-quenching Dark Mild merge with the charred beefy crust and arugula on the Jury Burger; the beer’s light body eases any heaviness. S p r i n g 2 0 1 2 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l 9 9
menu
PERFECT PAIRINGS
Wine Peter Lehmann Layers ($8 glass/$30 bottle) This fruit-forward shiraz blend cuts through the richness of the short ribs, Dalton said. “It has robust character but it’s not too over-thetop with tannins. It helps create a clean taste with each bite.”
long & short of it Story by B RI A N L I NDA MOO D l P h oto s by A lysia burton
I
t takes a long time to cook short ribs at 1808. After being seared and sealed in Cryovac packs, the 48-Hour Short Ribs ($20) spend, well, two days in an immersion circulator at exactly 140 degrees. The sous-vide cooking style creates moist,
1808 American Bistro 29 E. Winter St., Delaware 740-417-4373 1808americanbistro.com
fall-off-the-bone beef that reaches a perfect medium-rare color without risk of overcooking. Such precision pops up a lot on the menu at the bustling Delaware restaurant. For owner and executive chef Josh Dalton and his kitchen team, technique takes center stage. “It’s an American bistro, which for a chef means we get to do whatever we want,” he explained. Dalton’s Southern roots can be tasted in dishes like Shrimp ’N Grits and
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New Orleans Beignets, but those are just starting points. “American cuisine doesn’t have its own cooking style necessarily, so it gives us a wide range.” There’s a wide range of beverage choices as well, thanks to 1808’s classic cocktails menu, wines by the glass and an impressive lineup of craft brews (the bistro even lists growler prices on the beer menu). We asked Dalton to recommend drinks that best accompany his signature short ribs.
Beer Brugse Zot Belgian ale ($12/10-oz. snifter) The sweetness of the short ribs and the dish’s red wine demi-glace is complemented by this blond Belgian ale. “It has a nice sweet, malty flavor, with some wheat characteristics,” Dalton said.
Cocktail Woodford Reserve Manhattan ($11) Dalton, a New Orleans native, admits that the Southern influence shines through in his love for bourbon. “When is bourbon not good?” he asked. “Accompany it with a nice short rib and you can’t go wrong.”
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3665 N. High Street Clintonville, OH 43214 Ph: (614) 447-8600 1677 Marion Mt. Gilead Rd. Ste. 500 Marion, OH 43302 Ph: (740) 389-6100
www.groovyspoon.com
scene
Closing time
Kendyl Meadows Age: 23 Bartender
Giuseppe’s ritrovo 2268 E. Main st., Bexley
Hometown: Columbus
mixing it up Kendyl Meadows brings youthful zest to the cocktails at Giuseppe’s Ritrovo Story by c h r i s d e v i l l e l P h oto by j o d i m i l l er
“A
lot of people fall into bartending as a way to make some money or just for the meantime,” said Kendyl Meadows, “but I really liked it and I sought it out.” Meadows, 23, is pursuing a degree in Arabic and Middle Eastern studies at Ohio State, but her vibrant homespun cocktails so impressed her friends that they suggested she start mixing drinks for a living. Thus, she marched into
short orders
Where Kendyl Meadows goes for something specific
Mouton and asked for a job. The sophisticated Short North cocktail bar obliged, and within months Meadows was among the city’s most respected mixologists—so respected that Travis Owens recruited her to join his bartending team at Giuseppe’s Ritrovo in Bexley over the summer. “I get a lot of freedom to mess around with all the fun ingredients behind the bar,” Meadows said. Off the clock, Meadows makes her way through this
city’s bustling restaurant scene. l What’s your favorite thing to eat at Giuseppe’s? We have killer ravioli. I know it sounds cliche for an Italian restaurant but our ravioli is awesome. We have three different kinds. And then Giuseppe works up some crazy stuff for his customers. The lamb osso bucco, it’s awesome. l You guys have been getting really creative with
your cocktails. What’s your favorite? Since we’re next to the movie theater here … one of the things we came up with is popcorn-infused rum and made it into a highball. So something really simple but really fun, and we make it with a gingerbread liqueur called Snap. l Where do you go for happy hour? If I’m not working, I like M’s happy hour a lot. Cris Dehlavi is awesome, obvi-
Lunch:
Mexican:
Dessert:
Cocktails:
“DeepWood. It’s killer food for the price. And I can have a couple fun cocktails while I’m in there too.”
“El Fogoncito, the taco truck on the North Side.”
“Pistacia Vera. But that’s obvious, right?”
“The boys at Mouton can make a good drink still, even without me.”
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JP’s Restaurant & Party Facility
Beautifully Budgeted at Bolton Field Weddings • Corporate Events • Social Functions
Valentine’s Airplane Dinner Party February 14, 2012
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Happy Dragon
ously, and she’ll whip up something really crazy. And the food specials are good. It’s kind of a weird happy hour, but I like it.
location by my house—lucky or unlucky enough. When they opened the Clintonville location, I about had a heart attack. It was very exciting.
l Where do you go for late-
l What’s your preferred
night munchies? I’m a fan of Mikey’s Late Night Slice. Who doesn’t love Mikey’s, though? I’m lucky enough to have a
type of cuisine when you eat out? I like when people pull off classic American well. I think Skillet does that—Skillet and Knead. They don’t try to glam it up too much so it’s unrecognizable; they do good, solid food. I’m also a snob about Indian food.
“I like when people pull off classic American well. Skillet and Knead do that. They don’t try to glam it up too much.”
l Is there a go-to place for Indian? Here in town, about the only place I go to a lot is Aab in Grandview. I think their food’s pretty solid, but a lot of the country’s best Indian food is found elsewhere, unfortunately.
Simply Great Chinese Food 277 E. Livingston Ave • German Village 614-224-1468 • happydragonlivingston.com
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sweet!
Box of chocolates Winans 897 S. Third St., German Village 614-445-6464 winanscolumbus.com
Story by Shelley Ma nn Photo by Jodi mil ler
from the heart Your Valentine deserves better than generic store-brand chocolates. Pick up a box of made-in-Ohio candies from Winans, a quaint chocolate shop that’s new to Columbus but has a long history around the state. Their selection of handmade milk and dark chocolates—all based on German recipes—includes classics like maple creams and caramels as well as special creations like Wurtles, Winans’ take on the turtle, available in cashew, pecan and almond varieties. Gift boxes even include what may as well be Ohio’s official state candy: hand-rolled peanut butter Buckeyes.
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