Columbus Dish May 2011

ColumbusCrave.com Summer 2011

Al fresco

CRAVE’S guide to the city’s best patio dining

rockmill

Brewery central ohio’s hottest new craft beer

Breakfast all day

The three most magical words in the English language

www.cafeistanbul.com 3989 Worth Avenue - Easton, Columbus, OH 43219 Phone: 614-473-9144

THE FACES OF FRESH FOOD. Anderson Orchard • K & R Farm • Oakvale Farmstead Cheese The Orchard of Bill & Vicky Thomas • Rhoads Farm Market • Somerset Herbs Toby Run Growers • Wayward Seed Farm • And 18 more Ohio farmers at our Saturday Market

Supporting local farmers.

Nourishing our community.

Passionately preserving good taste.

SINCE 1876

www.facebook.com/NorthMarket @NorthMarket

www.northmarket.com 59 Spruce Street

•

Downtown Columbus

•

(614) 463-9664

•

open daily

www.sweetclove.com (614) 764-1717 6630 Sawmill Road, Columbus Ohio 43235

GRANDVIEW CAFE

Enjoy Two Stories of Patio Dining Full Service Restaurant

• Appetizers • Entrées • Salads • Soups • Sandwiches LIVE MUSIC Every Friday and Saturday at 10pm Every Tuesday @ 8pm!

TEAM TRIVIA LIVE

Every Thursday @ 8pm!

The Best Pa

TEAM TRIVIA LIVE Happy Hour • M-F 3-7 pm

tio Around!

Now Serving Brunch Saturdays From 11am - 5pm Join Us Every Sunday Brunch All Day & Karaoke All Night!

Happy Hour Prices All Day Sunday!

1455 W. Third Avenue Columbus, Ohio 43212

(614) 486-2233 www.grandviewcafe.com

Wednesday, May 18th • 7pm Beer Tasting- Left Hand Brewing Company, Longmont, Colorado

Complimentary appetizers • $15 per person

Wednesday, June 8th

5 Course Beer Dinner - North Coast Brewing Company, Mendocino County, Ca. Owner of North Coast, Tom Allen, will be here to talk about beers and brewing

Prepaid Reservations Required • $40 per person

Prepaid reservations may be purchased at Brews Cafe or by calling 740-587-0249 • Limited seating available 116 E. Broadway, Granville, OH

740-587-0249 • brewscafe.com Located in Downtown Granville, Just 15 MInutes from the Outerbelt

Learn to grow your own herbs

Host an event on the Scotts Miracle-Gro Community Garden Campus

Enjoy seasonal fare at the Conservatory’s Garden Café

Food education classes for all ages

Spring Garden Celebration: May 15, noon - 4 p.m.

FRANKLIN PARK CONSERVATORY

1777 East Broad Street • Columbus, Ohio 43203 • 614.645.8733 • www.fpconservatory.org

E X P E R I E N C E

SUPPERCLUB

live entertainment 7 nights a week

INTRODUCING

M I K E B L A C K

Chef Mike Black Mike was born and raised in Westerville, attending The Ohio State University for three years focusing on an English degree, all the while, cooking. In 1998 he decided that he would rather cook than teach English. It was the following year that Mike went to Johnson and Wales University in Culinary Arts. in Charleston. SC. He did his internship in Key West working under Chef Sean Travis. After finishing school Mike moved back to Columbus and soon helped open Metropolitan Seafood Grill under Pat Mecnamera. After four years he worked at two places that changed the way he thought about food, Alana’s and G. Michaels. They taught him the philosophies on food he still has today. Alana with her farm to table freshness and great ties to the community. His mentor Chef David Tetzloff developed his palate, and gave him the snout to tail mentality. From there Mike opened the Burgundy Room in Dublin and took over as executive chef six months later. At the start of 2008 his family moved back to Charleston and he helped open a gourmet retail shop called Caviar and Bananas. Mike then moved back to Columbus in November 2009 and has brought his flair for local food with a southern Creole twist to Vonn Jazz.

245 East Campus View Blvd. * Columbus, Ohio 43235 (614) 431-5299 * www.vonnjazz.com

New Catering Menu • Wood Burning Fireplace on the Patio • Live Music Every Tuesday & Sunday As the owner of Local Roots, I believe everything is better when it comes from the farm.

Our goal is to serve our customers with an abundance of locally sourced goods. We are excited to be an Ohio Proud Affiliate serving All Natural Ohio Amish Chicken, Ohio Pork, and Certified Angus Beef.

Our family farm, not far from downtown Powell, provides us with fresh produce for the restaurant. When not from the farm the produce is always purchased from local vendors.

We have a small herb garden on the patio that provides us with most of the herbs we use.

In order to utilize the freshest seasonal products we change the menu often, and are always striving to increase the amount of local goods we use at Local Roots. Of the 24 beers on tap, 6 are from Ohio; we also pour 3 wines from local wineries.

I would like to take a moment to thank you for allowing us to be a part of your day and serve you. –– Jessi Iams

LOCAL ROOTS 15 E. Olentangy St,, Powell, Ohio 43065

•

614-602-8060

•

localrootspowell.com

HISTORIC DOWNTOWN WORTHINGTON

Experience the stunning variety of fresh seafood, steak, and pasta selections at Rivage Atlantique

652 High St. Worthington, OH • www.rivageatlantique.com • 614-505-7779

contents The Columbus dining magazine

Summer 2011

Starters cover story Breakfast Club Digging into the morning diner scene

56 ColumbusCrave.com Summer 2011

Al fresco

Our guide to the city’s best patio dining

rockmill

Brewery central ohio’s hottest new craft beer

Breakfast all day

16 Editor’s Note 20 Craveworthy Shopping for a few of our favorite things this summer 22 Scoop Mouton’s newest bartender Hubbard Grille’s retro neon sign 26 Events Crave’s on the scene at foodie events around town 29 Crave Calendar Plan out your season

The three most magical words in the English language

l

ColumbusCrave.com

Food

34 Strip Search Indian-style tapas on Bethel 36 Neighborhood Dublin eats for the Memorial Tournament 40 Street Eats Gringas from Los Guachos 42 Required Eating Four cheese dishes to try 44 What’s Hot Honey is everywhere 46 Takeout Clever Crow’s new take-andbake pies 48 Al Fresco Our six favorite patios for summer dining

54 Chef’s Pantry Peek inside Skillet chef Kevin Caskey’s home kitchen

Drink

70 Craft Brews Everybody’s buzzing about Rockmill’s artisinal beers 76 Perfect Pairings What to order with Third & Hollywood’s pork chop 78 Closing Time Eddie Shepherd shares his favorite places to eat Cover Photo by

jodi miller Contents photo: Will Shilling

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34 S. Third St. Columbus, OH 43215 614-461-8700 ColumbusCrave.com Publisher Katie Wolfe Lloyd kwolfe@columbuscrave.com Director of Niche Publications Brian Lindamood blindamood@columbuscrave.com Editor Shelley Mann smann@columbuscrave.com Creative Director Will Shilling Design Editor Yogesh Chaudhary Photographers Jodi Miller and Daniel Sohner Contributing Writers G.A. Benton, Robin Davis, Jackie Mantey and Bethia Woolf Office Manager Silvana Hildebrandt 614-461-8700 shildebrandt@columbuscrave.com ADVERTISING Niche Publications Advertising Manager Amy Bishop abishop@columbuscrave.com Restaurant Account Executive Erica Phillips ephillips@columbuscrave.com Subscriptions Don’t miss an issue: Have Crave delivered to your home.

Subscriptions are available for $5 for one year (4 issues). To order, call toll-free 855-686-2363 or visit ColumbusCrave.com.

Crave magazine is published and distributed by the Dispatch Printing Company four times a year. Crave is not responsible for unsolicited photographs, manuscripts or other materials. Reproduction of contents without express written permission is prohibited.

Copyright Š 2011 The Dispatch Printing Company.

starters

editor’s note Photo: Yogesh Chaudhary

Enjoying filet mignon at The Top

M

y mom is a terrible cook. And she admits it.

So she’s always been perplexed by my love for anything to do with food.

When I filled her in on Crave, our new magazine devoted to the dining scene in Columbus, she again laughed and shook her head. “I never cooked for you! How did you get to be so into food?”

The answer is simple. It’s because she knew she was a terrible cook and took us out to eat a lot.

Going out to eat was a thrill.

You got to dress up, order whatever you wanted from a menu full of delicious options, enjoy great conversation and great company. (And! No dishes to clean up.)

These days, I enjoy cooking, but if I had my choice, I’d pick a leisurely, cocktail-filled meal out with friends every time.

let’s go out There’s nothing I’d rather spend my hard-earned entertainment money on than really great food and drinks.

Crave is a celebration of the city’s vibrant, creative restaurant scene, one that’s expanding by the day. Four times a year, you can pick up Crave for free at restaurants and markets (with home delivery available by subscription). And you can always find our complete restaurant guide online at ColumbusCrave.com, along with daily coverage of the people and places that make dining out in Columbus so interesting.

I was downright giddy to walk into the new Commonwealth Sandwich Bar, an urban-chic shop on High Street offering inspired sandwich creations like the Duck Season, pairing duck confit with gooey gruyere, housecured bacon, butter-poached

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almonds and balsamic syrup.

It’s exactly the kind of place I’m proud to see open up here. The kind of place people who aren’t from here would never expect to find in Columbus. The kind of place that’s popping up more and more often these days. Just flip through the pages of this magazine and you’ll see plenty of examples.

From Skillet’s rustic comfort food to Mouton’s classic cocktails to Clever Crow’s cornbread-crusted pizza to Katalina’s Cafe Corner’s awesomely quirky breakfast menu (pancake balls!), I had a blast eating my way through Columbus in preparation for this inaugural issue.

My very favorite moment came when I tried the mouthwatering dessert pictured on page 80. I dropped by Mitchell’s Ocean Club after work on a Wednesday, sat by

myself at the bar and ordered a Grapefruit Fizz and a slice of the Baked Alaska.

I kid you not, this thing is so gorgeous, so towering, so decadent that everyone else sitting at the bar spontaneously burst into applause when the waiter brought it out. It was a magical moment.

An impromptu shared moment with fellow food lovers.

And let’s be honest—there’s not really another way to manage to raise your self-esteem before doing something as idiotically indulgent as devouring a plate of super-fancy ice cream cake for dinner.

Enjoy!

Shelley Mann, Editor

C. Williams Bistro Powell’s Best Kept Secret!

Outstanding Cuisine With A “Personal Touch”. Specialties Include Lobster Rotini, Bourbon Peach-Glazed Pork Chops And Pan-Seared. Sea A Scallops. A Warm And Comfortable Atmosphere With Patio And Full Bar.

Tuesday - Friday: 11am - 10pm Saturday: 5 to 10pm • Sunday: 10am to 2pm Closed Mondays 26 Grace Drive, Powell, Ohio 43065 614-505-6788 • www.cwilliamsbistro.com

TM

Lane Alton Horst

LLC

Try our Classic Mama Ruben

Award winning German - American Cuisine In the Heart of German Village Featured on the Travel Channel “Man Vs. Food”

240 E. Kossuth St. 614-444-6808 Follow us online for events and special offers!

Like us on Facebook and Twitter @schmidtscbus

www.SchmidtHaus.com

A few of our favorite things this season Story by S h e l l e y M ann l P h otos by W i l l S h illing

Jam Are you a fan of The Kicker, the spicy-salty-sweet PB&J served at Grandview’s Krema Nut Company? Make one at home by layering some Krema peanut butter with this faintly fiery berry-and-pepper jam from Urbana.

Taste Weavers Berries & Peppers Jam, $6.70 at The Hills Market in Worthington

Corkscrew Spices One local bartender was inspired to create a hibiscus margarita after spotting this bright-pink-hued stuff at North Market’s spice headquarters. The tart powder can be mixed with sugar or salt and then used to rim a drink, or it’ll add a deep purple hue to sauces and reductions.

Hibiscus powder, $4 for 2 oz. at Spices Ltd. in the North Market

Poachers More of a breakfastin-bed person than a breakfast-out person? You’ll love these little silicone cookers, which make it simple to poach a picture-perfect egg.

Poach Pod, $6 at Cookware Sorcerer in the Short North 2 0 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l s u mm e r 2 0 1 1

Who wants to open their wine with a boring old normal corkscrew? Do the robot before you start drinking with this awesome opener, who’d get along great with Sesame Street’s Teeny Little Super Guy. Robot Corkscrew, $10 at Bink Davies in the Short North

Oil & vinegar Do you go through olive oil and balsamic vinegar way too quickly? You’ll love the new refillable oil and vinegar setup at Weiland’s. Here’s how it works: Buy a bottle of Ariston Greek extra virgin or some Italian balsamic (or both!), and then you can bring back your empties to get them refilled at a discount. Genius.

An Honest Interpretation of Italian Cuisine

Oil: $11 for 17 oz., $9 for refills; vinegar: $10 for 8.5 oz., $7 for refills at Weiland’s in Clintonville

Join Giuseppe’s bartenders for Happy Hour, Monday through Friday 4:30 to 6:30

Giuseppe’s Ritrovo strives to bring back the basics by focusing on the classics.

Crackers Want to serve the same kind of swanky cheese plate you can get at Short North’s cocktail-centric bar Mouton? The first thing you need are these crunchy and addictive crackers, studded with rosemary, raisins and pecans. Just add cheese.

Raincoast Crisps, $8 at Curds & Whey in the North Market

2268 East Main Street Bexley, OH 43209 (614) 235-4300 www.giuseppesritrovo.com facebook@giusppesritrovobar • twitter@giuseppesbexley

scoop

cocktails Photo: Jodi Miller

At the end of the day, your guest will always remember the food!

Behind the bar Columbus’ best-known cocktail connoisseur is now part of the team at the city’s classic cocktail headquarters. Cris Dehlavi, head bartender for M and Middle West Spirits, started in April as Mouton’s bar manager. She’s been adding signature drinks to the menu, many featuring Middle West’s locally made Oyo spirits. We checked in to find out what’s next for Mouton.

—Shelley Mann Why the new job?

Mouton has something no one else in this town has, that classic cocktail feel. It’s such a cool space, a beautiful location. There’s not a lot of frill, but there doesn’t need to be. This is a great opportunity for me to spread my wings and do some creative things.

What’s your approach?

I’m a big history buff with Prohibition-era drinks. M is the kind of place where we would take a classic cocktail and put a modern twist on it. At Mouton, we keep it classic.

And we really focus on anything local. We serve Watershed’s gin and vodka, and I’d like to see Brothers Drake mead in here.

Mouton

954 N. High St., Short North mouton954.com

What can we expect to see?

For spring and summer, we’re planning punch. In New York and Chicago, punch is the rage—you do a bowl of punch and it’s meant for three to six people. It’s a great for getting people to gather together.

We’ll probably do different kinds, a bourbon-based bunch and another with rum.

You guys do wine, too, right?

[Owner] Yusef Riazi does a great job of getting some really wonderful wines. Artisan vineyards and boutique wines you don’t see anywhere else.

We’re doing $10 off bottles of wine on Tuesdays to try to build that aspect as well.

What else is new?

Happy hour, which Mouton had not had. Tuesday through Friday from 5-7 p.m., it’s $2 off all the vintage cocktails.

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PC Events Catering, Inc. has been serving Central Ohio with full service catering for over 20 years.

Whether it is a casual buffet for 20 or a formal sit down dinner for 500, let us be your partner in your next event! Our exceptional menu, personalized service and finest ingredients are what sets us apart.

Special Occasions Including: Anniversaries Cookouts and Barbecues Corporate Events Graduations Parties Reunions Wedding Receptions All Occasions No Occasions

614.792.3993

www.pceventsinc.com 50 South Liberty Street, Suite 100 Powell, OH 43065

FOOD, DRINK AND FUN IN A FRIENDLY TAVERN ATMOSPHERE! COME TRY THE BEST BURGER IN THE SHORT NORTH

The best quality, fresh ingredients and everything homemade!

PERUVIAN FLAVOR Criollo Fish Sandwich Incredible Fish Sandwich found only at Sí Señor! sandwiches & more.

20 E. Long St. | Columbus, OH 43026

614-227-0070 Mon-Fri: 10 am - 4 pm Sat: 12 pm - 4 pm m

day-Friday 4-8p

Happy Hour Mon

630 N. High Street 614-223-9601 • www.bernardstavern.com

Join us on

Bernard’s Tavern

“Seasonal Driven, Farm to Fork Comfort Classics with an Urban Edge”

Photo by Ely Brothers

410 E Whittier St. • Columbus, OH 43206 • 614-443-2266 Follow the location of our Mobile Kitchen on Facebook and Twitter www.skilletruf.com

scoop

lights

Neon by the numbers Sign cost:

Over $20,000 Sign weight:

Photo: Jodi Miller

900-1,000 pounds Fun fact!

Dave Morrison, the owner of Morrison Sign who produced the sign, grew up in the Short North and bought his first car at Winder’s Chevrolet dealership.

Captivating and Unique...

Tradition with Contemporary style, Bringing a new experience to Columbus...

Full kitchen menu with extensive sushi selection Full bar and eclectic wine selection

sign of the times Hubbard Bar and Grille has been serving up cocktails and comfort food since January in the former Rosendales space at the corner of Hubbard and High. But what has people buzzing most is the fantastic retro neon sign out front.

Designed by Brent LaCount of Design Collective Inc. and made at Morrison Sign Company, the sign is a replica of the one used when the building housed Winder’s Chevrolet. —Shelley Mann How’d the sign come to be?

The sign was conceived at the end of the overall restaurant design process.

We had presented the Victorian Village Commission members a couple different sign designs when they handed us a very pixelated, black-and-white photocopy of Winder’s Chevrolet dealership.

They told us that was how the building should look, and suggested we look into designing a similar sign.

Our goal all along was to

Hubbard Bar and Grille 793 N. High St., Short North 614-291-5000 hubbardgrille.com

highlight the building’s history, and recreating the original Winder’s Chevrolet sign was a perfect fit to our concept, blending past and present, traditional and modern.

How similar are the two?

The shape of the sign is a replica of the original Winder’s Chevrolet sign. Hard to believe, but the size is actually shorter than the original.

How else does Hubbard Grille pay tribute to its car dealership roots?

We reused the original Winder’s Chevrolet flooring. Antique cast-iron wheel spokes we found at Grandview Mercantile are displayed, as well as black-and-white photographs of antique cars.

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PATIO OPENING SOON!

Happy Hour Mon & Tues 5-6:30 pm

1/2 Price off selected standard rolls • $2 Budweiser and Bud Light • $3 Small Hot Sakes • $5 Moshi Creatives Martinis *Dine-in only excludes other promotions & discounts

2152 E. Main St. Bexley, OH 43209 Call Today for Your Reservation (not required)

614-732-0641 www.moshisushibar.com

The Real Taste of the Peruvian Rotisserie Chicken only at

Seafood Peruvian Specials on the Weekends Catering Services | Party Room (2nd Floor) Tuesday - Saturday: 11am-10pm | Sunday: 11am-9pm

1138 Bethel Rd. Columbus, OH 43220 www.sansubbq.com Join us on 614.273.0188

1644 N High Street, Suite G (next to OSU Campus) Columbus, OH | 614-299-2066

Join us on

Any fresher, you’d have to catch it yourself.

G R A N DV I E W 614.291.3474 C RO S S W O O D S 614.410.3474 W W W .C O L U M B U S F I S H M A R K E T . C O M

scoop

events

Latitude 41

Slow Foods benefit Thursday, March 24 Photo s by da ni e l s o h ne r To celebrate both eating and drinking local, Chef David MacLennan created four special courses to pair with three local spirits: Middle West Spirits’ Oyo Vodka, Rockmill Brewery’s beers and Brothers Drake’s mead. M’s head bartender Cris Dehlavi whipped up cocktails featuring the chosen spirits.

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Our Incredible 15-Layer Lasagne

Enjoy Great Tasting Italian Food!

Bring the whole gang or just a few friends and enjoy traditional Italian food for lunch or dinner.

scoop

events

Franklin Park Conservatory

Tastings on the Terrace kickoff party Tuesday, March 29

Photo s by Da ni el S o h ne r To gear up for Tastings on the Terrace, an evening of fine spirits sampling to benefit Franklin Park Conservatory’s horticulture programs, the conservatory hosted a kickoff party for supporters. Guests enjoyed cocktails and wood-fired pizzas created by Jim Budros on the Community Garden Campus. Mark your calendar: Tastings on the Terrace is June 2.

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Crave Calendar Summer 2011

Taste of Dine Originals May 12 The Grange Audubon Center

Sample food from 51 local independent restaurants to benefit Dine Originals Columbus and the Buckeye Ranch.

dineoriginalscolumbus.com

Tastings on the Terrace

June 2 Franklin Park Conservatory Fine spirits and hors d’oeuvres on the West Terrace. Benefits the conservatory’s horticulture programs.

Taste to Remember

fpconservatory.org

Food, wine and a silent auction to raise money for Children’s Hunger Alliance.

June 3-5 Discovery District

May 19 Loth in Grandview

childrenshungeralliance.org

Apron Gala May 21 North Market

A coolest apron competition plus cooking contests and merchant samples.

northmarket.com

Local Brews and Local Food May 25 North Market

Mingle with Crave on the North Market patio over some Columbus Brewing Company beers and North Market food.

northmarket.com

Salmon Roast May 28 The Hills Market

This thing is epic. 1,000 pounds of grilled salmon, plus ice cream, cole slaw, hot dogs, beer, wine, chips, cookies and a steel drum band.

thehillsmarket.com

Columbus Arts Festival

Miniature Scones, Canapés, Pastries and loose leaf teas

columbusartsfestival.org

“Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams at Home” June 11 Wexner Center

Columbus’ ice cream queen Jeni Britton Bauer shares her tricks in her new book. Celebrate its release with Middle West Spirits cocktails, live music and lots of ice cream.

jenisicecreams.com

Cooking with the Stars June 23 Blackwell Hotel at Ohio State

Small plate and silent auction proceeds go to the National Kidney Foundation of Ohio.

nkfofohio.org

GrillMasters Festival Two days of grilling, smoking, barbecuing, cooking demos and live music.

Sip vintages from Ohio wineries and sample foods from North Market vendors.

northmarket.com

AFTERNOON TEA

This year’s 50th-anniversary fest will celebrate cuisine as an art form with a new Savor the Arts tent featuring special menus and wine and beer tastings from Dine Originals restaurants.

North Market Food & Ohio Wine Festival

May 28-29 North Market

Ohio’s Premium Pastry Shop

July 8-10 North Market

northmarket.com

SCHNITZEL A thin, lightly breaded cutlet sautéed in clarified butter.

Alpine • Greek • Italian • Holstein • Hunter Paprika • Rahm • Bavarian • Wiener Chicken $12.95 Veal $14.95

CLINTONVILLE

2885 N. High St. Columbus, OH 43202

614.268.3687

NORTH MARKET

59 Spruce St. Columbus, OH 43215

614.227.0441

www.mozartscafe.com

BENEFITING CHILDREN’S HUNGER ALLIANCE JOIN US FOR OUR FESTIVE PRELUDE TO SUMMER ON:

THURSDAY MAY 19TH 6:00  8:30PM

LOTH, 855 GRANDVIEW AVE, GRANDVIEW, OH 43215

TICKETS $45/$50

GET YOUR TICKETS TODAY AT:

WWW.TASTETOREMEMBER.ORG

All proceeds benefit Children’s Hunger Alliance and the American Culinary Federation scholarship fund

ELEVATORBREWING.COM

TASTE THE FINEST MICROBREW COLUMBUS HAS TO OFFER.

HAPPY HOUR:

More special events and wine tastings than you can imagine!

M-F 3PM-7PM ALL PINTS $2.50

Located within walking distance to all major hotels and venues.

Call today for reservations!

161 N. HIGH STREET

614-228-0500

RESTAURANT AURANT RANT RA NT T&B BIST BISTRO BISTR serving rving Co Columbus C olumbu fo for 35 years

Serving Dinner Monday through Saturday

1092 BETHEL ROAD, COLUMBUS 43220 614.451.9774 • REFECTORY.COM

For the wine, for the food, for the taste, for the experience!

FFLES • L IÈ G E W A ND • S AV O R Y A S SWEET CRÊPE KS D R IN •ESPRESSO

Monte Carlo Italian Kitchen

Homemade Italian Food

Now Serving

Prime Rib

Friday & Saturday Nights 10 oz. Cut $14.99 • 14 oz. Cut $17.99

Ask us about Cater ing Follow on authenticwaffle.com

Includes Rolls & Side Dish y Mondats Nigh t a kids e.99 for $1

Nor th Market 59 Spruce St., Columbus 43215

614-224-0986

Now Delivering Large Bulk Orders!

From 20 to 400 people

New remod ly eled!

Call for more details!

(614) 890-2061

www.montecarloitaliankitchen.com Parkview Center 610 W. Schrock Road Westerville (By Kinkos) AT the Corner of Cleveland Ave. & Schrock

food Insalata Rossa

Giuseppe’s ritrovo

2268 E. Main St., Bexley 614-235-4300 giuseppesritrovo.com

Ruby red Beets are the prettiest of the root vegetables. But the crimson beauties are also pretty contentious—you either love ’em or you hate ’em. Devotees will adore this salad. A balsamic reduction drizzle brings out the natural sweetness of the beets, then a sprinkling of salty pistachios and parmesan shards heads off potential sugar overload. It’s all served on a bed of leafy mesclun and thinly sliced fennel.

Story by S h e l l e y M a nn Photo by W i l l sh i l l i ng

guide

strip search

hot chaats Olentangy Square gem Banana Leaf serves up small plates of Indian street food Story by Ro b i n Dav i s l P h oto s by J od i M i l l er

The strip mall: To find the beauty of Olentangy Square, you have to look behind two chain restaurants that sit in front of it: Johnny Buccelli’s and McDonald’s. This nondescript strip mall offers an impressive bounty of ethnic eateries (count ’em, five!), highlighted

by The Banana Leaf, an Indian restaurant that’s a bit off the beaten path in terms of its menu, too.

The atmosphere: Banana Leaf is cheery and bright, with walls painted

chartreuse and tangerine and the floor covered in what appears to be red vinyl. Rows of booths keep the setting casual. The staff, often led by owner Kamal Panchal, warmly greets regulars and is quick to suggest menu items to newcomers.

The food:

A popular buffet is packed with dal (a thin lentil soup), vadas (fried lentil rounds) and assorted curries, from eggplant to cauliflower. But what really sets Banana Leaf apart is the chaats, small bites of Indian street food—think of

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them as Indian tapas.

You get three with the lunch buffet and six with the dinner buffet, or you can just make a meal of them.

Selections include Pani Puri ($3.79 for six), puffed fried wafers stuffed with a mix of mashed potatoes, chickpeas and chutney, then doused with a spicy water scented with tamarind and cumin.

These are meant to be picked up and enjoyed in just one bite.

The other chaats require a fork. For Sev Puri ($3.75 for six), the flat wafers are stuffed with potatoes and onions then dotted with yogurt, sev (sort of like broken chow mein noodles), tamarind and hot chutney.

The Dahi Batata Puri ($3.79 for six pieces) also incorporate the flat crispy wafers, only here they’re topped with a potato-onion mix and garnished with creamy yogurt, a sprinkle of sev and a tiny bit of hot chutney.

Bhel Puri ($4 for each portion) looks like Rice Krispies tossed with dates, tamarind, onions and potatoes. The combination is crunchy and savory, tangy and sweet.

Not all the chaats are based on puri. The Ragda Patties ($4 for three) resemble mushrooms but are actually made with potatoes then shaped into patties about the size of a mushroom cap. They’re served with a fragrant gravy made from dried peas.

The Samosa Chaat ($4 for each portion) combines the familiar potato-stuffed fried pyramid in a less frequently seen dark brown chickpea gravy.

Everything here is vegetarian, with many vegan and gluten-free options as well.

For beverages, Banana Leaf goes beyond the usual mango lassi, also serving the yogurt smoothies in a bright pink Rose flavor and Khus, an electric celery-colored variation that tastes herbal ($3).

The Banana Leaf 816 Bethel Rd., Northwest Side 614-459-4101 bananaleafofcolumbus.com Hours: 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.

Tuesday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.- 9:30 p.m.

Friday-Saturday and noon-9 p.m. Sunday

The lineup

More Olentangy Square eats

Bamboo Cafe Cuisine: Thai & Vietnamese Vibe: True to its name, this chic place is filled with bamboo Must-try dishes: Tom Kha Gai, Sup Hai San, Pho Tai

Lashish the Greek Cuisine: Greek & Mediterranean Vibe: Bright and tidy Middle Eastern diner with a superattentive owner Must-try dishes: Lentil Vegetable soup, Kefta Kabobs, Chicken Shistawook

Min-Ga Cuisine: Korean Vibe: No-frills ethnic spot with Korean-style comfort food Must-try dishes: Stone pot bibimbap, Bulgogi, Soondae

Fantasia Tea Cafe Clockwise from top left, Dahi Batata Puri, Sev Puri, Pani Puri and Bhel Puri

Cuisine: Coffee & Desserts Vibe: Authentic Japanese-style bubble tea shop Must-try drinks: Red bean smoothie, coconut bubble tea, almond milk tea

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guide

Neighborhoods

A blackened scallop from the Outrigger Canoe Combo appetizer at Tucci’s

A Taste of Dublin In the area for the Memorial Tournament? Here are some above-par dining recommendations Story by G . A . Be nto n l P h otos by J o d i M i l l er

I

ts name is proudly Irish, but you can savor dishes from all over the globe in Dublin, Ohio. It wasn’t always that way.

Founded around 200 years ago, the onceprovincial backwater that was Dublin Village has a colorful history—

some of it actually true. Dublin’s alleged to have lost its right to be Ohio’s capital in a poker game. Then there’s Leatherlips, the Wyandotte Indian chief who legendarily curses the Memorial Tournament with poor weather because the golf course

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is built on a Wyandotte gravesite.

What’s certain is today’s world-flavorflaunting community is a restaurant-rich amalgam of shopping mallbuzzing modern suburb and quaint “Olde” village. Here’s a taste of Dublin’s flavors.

Always Serving

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Deli • Cafe • Sushi • Chinese

dublin

Not Your Regular Deli

Muirfield Dr. Dublin Rd.

Matt the Miller’s

270

Cafe Ephesus DublinGranville Rd.

Tucci’s Dublin Village Tavern

Avery Rd.

Tucci’s 35 N. High St., Dublin 614-792-3466 tuccisbistro.com Burgundy-wine red swirls around cream-colored lamps across a handsome bar.

The vivid tint washes across banquettes and pools up in splashy photographs of wine glasses. Welcome to the golden-glowing, casually elegant and vino-centric Tucci’s in Olde Dublin.

Clearly, here, wine rules. But its kingdom is beautiful food with regal accents from Italy, Asia, California and Hawaii.

Try the heavenly Hebi (like swordfish), with its coconut ginger risotto and edamame stir fry. Also recommended: the thick, salt-crusted, juicy yet super-lean grass-fed strip steak, and a chunky, believable Spaghetti Bolognese, its sophisticated richness leavened by bits of bright tomato.

Cafe Ephesus 6720 Perimeter Loop Rd., Dublin 614-798-8091 cafeephesusdublin.com Experience the thrill of the grill in the delightful Cafe Ephesus. Named after an ancient city in Turkey, this modest but lively BYOB restaurant pulls no flavor punches. Of course you’ll be getting your Turkish kebab on, but first try

Sawmill Rd.

Tadka Blue Ginger

an appetizer. Indecisive types should target the seven-inone Combo—it looks like a dartboard and hits the bull’seye of authentic flavors.

Adventurous types should nip at the volatile Ezme (a fiery, walnutty Turkish salsa) followed by cooling-off Mucver (minty veggie pancakes) served with terrific homemade yogurt dip. Grill-wise, go with the juice-tastic Shish, Doner and Iskender kebabs.

Dublin Village Tavern 27 S. High St., Dublin 614-766-6250 thedublinvillagetavern.com The history of Dublin is written on the walls of the Dublin Village Tavern. It’s scrawled along the much-traveled wooden plank floors. It stares back at you from old photographic reproductions attached to green-painted brick in the lively, little bar area.

Built in the late 1800s, DVT (as locals know it) previously lived as a hardware store and post office. These days, it’s

Adventurous types should try the volatile Ezme appetizer at Cafe Ephesus

We Cater Parties & Special Events!

Proudly Serving Crimson Cup Coffee

MAKE YOUR OWN SALAD BAR • 60 Item Salad Bar • Fresh Baked Bagels • Wraps • Sandwiches • Coffee/Tea

Homemade Soups Everyday!

3296 N. High St. 614-267-3354 Monday-Saturday 7:00am - 9pm Sunday 7:30am - 8:00pm

10% OFF 50% OFF Total Purchase

Buy one Sushi Roll and get one at 50% OFF

Not valid with any other offer.

One coupon per customer per visit.

Expires: 7-31-11

Not valid with any other offer.

One coupon per customer per visit.

Expires: 7-31-11

guide

Neighborhoods

The wine room at Tucci’s in Olde Dublin

a convivial, sports-friendly watering hole where present and past smoothly commune in ambiance and food. DVT musts: spicy, cheese-soupy Village Chowder and “Reuben-esque” Irish Egg Roll.

Also recommended: burgers, meatloaf and Irish Casserole.

Tadka 3535 W. Dublin-Granville Rd., Dublin; 614-791-3800 tadkarestaurant.com A silky, nearly floor-toceiling red and gold banner announces Tadka’s name in this modern and stylish Indian restaurant’s entryway. This also informs you that the posh Tadka is far from your average Indian eatery. On gray stucco walls are framed travelogue photographs plus long vertical streams of text explaining the

ins and outs of Indian cooking.

Onto curvy white platters— resting atop black tablecloths—go potent delectables fragrant with cardamom, cumin, ginger and cilantro.

Try tangy and crispy okra fries (Bhindi Amchur), the mighty Murgh Methi (tender boneless chicken in a zesty pesto) and the Emperor’s Platter—a killer kabob-athon.

Matt the Miller’s Tavern 6725 Avery-Muirfield Dr., Dublin 614-799-9100 mtmtavern.com After playing—or watching—a round of golf, swing into a round of drinks and zingy grub at Matt the Miller’s Tavern, a sometimes boisterous, upscale sports bar.

Comfy and casual, the tavern

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serves bold, hearty, multi-culti entrees and creative takes on pubby favorites.

Here, junk food classics like nachos get a snazzy sushi makeover (Spicy Ahi Tuna Nachos) and pizzas can be adorned with seafood and colorful creole, Mexican and Indian flourishes (the wonderful Chipotle Shrimp Flatbread). There’s also a pretty great steak (Blackened NY Strip) and luscious localingredient-starring dishes like Smoked Pork Tenderloin and Jerk Chicken.

You’ll instantly forget you’re in a shopping plaza when you step into Blue Ginger

Blue Ginger 6234 Sawmill Rd., Dublin 614-792-3888 bluginger.biz You’ll instantly forget you’re in a shopping plaza when you step into Blue Ginger. Duskily lit, it’s equipped with polished and curvaceously carved dark wood, big booths with mod, metallic table tops, a sushi bar and a chic cocktail bar.

And talk about international! The prettily plated dishes display influences from Thailand, Japan, China, Indonesia and Vietnam. Try the Tsunami Roll, with towering waves of flavor, color and texture, or the Crispy Red Snapper, with caramelized soy, wine vinegar and Panang curry sauce. Other stars are the Vietnamese salad and an engaging Vegetarian Sushi platter.

Live music Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday nights.

Hours Lunch Mon-Sat 11am-3pm Dinner Mon-Thurs 5:30-10pm Fri-Sat 5:30pm -11pm

guide

street eats

tacos to go West Side taqueria specializes in gringas, an addictive combination of pork and pineapple Story by BETHIA WO Olf l P h oto s by J odi M i ll er

A

s you walk up to Taqueria Los Guachos, don’t be confused by the giant hunk of meat spinning slowly on a spit. Sure, meat spits are more common at gyro joints than taco stands, but that doesn’t make this street food any less authentic.

See, Mexico City has a large Lebanese population, and they’ve adopted their distinctive method of rotisserie cooking. Substitute pork for lamb and Mexican spices for Middle Eastern and you have al pastor, Los Guachos’ calling card.

Where to find it:

Taqueria Los Guachos Truck

461 Commerce Sq., West Side 614-638-8806 Hours: 4 p.m.-midnight Tuesday-Sunday, 4 p.m.-2 a.m. (or later) Friday-Saturday

Restaurant

5221 Godown Rd., Northwest Side 614-538-0211 Hours: 11 a.m.-midnight Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-2:30 a.m.

Friday-Saturday

The truck is tucked off Sullivant Avenue outside the El Volcan nightclub, a popular Mexican concert venue.

Earlier this year Los Guachos opened a brick-and-mortar location on Godown Road, just north of Bethel. The restaurant has a slightly expanded menu but offers all the expected taco truck favorites.

When to go: The truck’s always bustling, but things really get hopping when there’s a big concert at El Volcan—and on Tuesdays for buy-one-

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get-one-free tacos al pastor. If you go on Tuesday, go early and prepare for a wait.

What to get: Lots of taco trucks offer a version of al pastor, but no one does it like Los Guachos.

The shawarma-like mound of meat, called a trompa, is made of marinated pork tenderloin and topped with a whole pineapple. For a taco, the “spit boss” shaves ribbons of pork into a tortilla then, with one deft motion, slices and flips a sliver of pineapple on top before adding onions and cilantro.

Gringas, basically open-faced al pastor quesadillas

On the side: You can find salsas and relishes on the service counter. The mild guacamole sauce is a crowd pleaser, while the habanero-onion relish is for heat-seekers only. Sliced cucumbers are available to take the edge off the spice.

Don’t forget to try: The oh-so-craveable gringas are basically open-faced al pastor quesadillas. There’s something magical about this combination of caramelized cheese, grilled pork and pine-

apple. You can also get a generously portioned al pastor torta, a Mexican sub with cheese, avocado, tomato and beans.

For non-pork eaters, asada (steak), suadero (brisket) and lengua (tongue) are all available as tacos, tortas or quesadillas. Beveragewise, you’ll find a range of Mexican sodas including several Jarritos flavors and Mexican Coca-Cola.

Bethia Woolf, owner of the tour company Columbus Food Adventures, blogs at tacotruckscolumbus. com and streeteats columbus.com.

flavors required eating say cheese Whether it’s the main attraction or a mighty sidekick, cheese plays a major role in these all-star noshes.

Story by G . A . B enton l P h otos by w i l l s h i l l ing

2

armesan Roasted Asparagus P with Duck Egg and Sherry Vinaigrette

Old North Columbus g

Alana’s

Tender and beautiful locally grown asparagus spears are gently embraced by nutty parmesan cheese, and the pretty package gets oven roasted. After warmed through, it’s “sauced” with a decadent duck egg cleverly sizzled in a sherry vinaigrette to help balance the lovely, unctuous yolk.

Photo: Jodi Miller

4

5 Cheese Pizza

Grandview i

Bono Pizza

Atop Bono’s singularly fantastic handmade delicate crust—which gets singed and smoke-scented in a homemade wood-burning oven—is a rich and terrific pesto sauce plus a lively mix of cheeses (like fresh mozzarella, parmesan, gorgonzola, feta and Swiss) applied with careful restraint. Scallions and peppery arugula mediate the salty creaminess.

1

Melted Pecorino

Short North & Polaris h

Marcella’s

Pitch-perfect, picnic-appropriate ingredients are transformed into a giggleinducing indoor snack that adds up to more than the sum of its parts. An amusing mini cast-iron pan holds molten pecorino, which texturally rhymes with truffled honey.

The gooey duo finds contrast in paper-thin slices of juicy and tart green apples, and super-crunchy toast points are provided for scooping and stacking.

3

Parmesan Creme Brulee

Victorian Village h

Basi Italia

A witty and savory take on the dessert favorite, this outrageously lush appetizer has an elegantly brittle and caramelized, balsamic-drizzled exterior that gives way to a velvety, dense and wildly intense cheesepowered custard.

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The Mother Clucker is now available for Dinner!

-Free

luten and G tarian

ns

Optio

aily trées D r n E l a i Spec Cauliflowe

Vege

n r • Lemo Bell Peppe d e f f ka • Stu Mousa • Lamb ed Snapper R • Fresh hanks S • Lamb n Curry e room k • Chic h with Mush c a • Spin Bean Stew b r • Butte d Leg of Lam e t s a • Ro e Day s of th • Soup lable g Avai n i r e t Ca

BEST RANTS E H T E OF N RESTAU N O A D LIVE! A Y VOTE TERRANE 2985 N. High St. 11 B I MED AND 20 Clintonville, OH 43202 2010 www.lavashcafe.com

614.263.7777

M I.

P A.

K Y.

505 N High Street Across from the Convention Center between The Short North and The Arena District www.kneadonhigh.com

Notarization of documents Taxes for small businesses, contractors and subcontractors ITIN application along with your Tax Return for reimbursement and recovery even for those who are up to 3 years behind on their taxes MON-SAT 10 AM-6 PM s SUN 12 PM-4 PM

(614) 276-8078 s (614) 607-9616 4323 Westland Mall Columbus, OH 43228 s

Social Events Conference Room Children’s Party Room We have a variety of packages to suit your needs at Playtown Party Place!

Call Claudia Quintero for more information

(614) 276-8078 s (614) 607-9616 4223 Westland Mall s Columbus, OH 43228

flavors

what’s hot

sweet as honey The homegrown sticky stuff is sweetening everything from ice cream to vodka Story by s h e l l e y M a nn l P h oto by w i l l s h i lling

Y

ou won’t find a sexier embodiment of the eat-local craze than honey, a food whose benefits multiply the closer it comes from home. Not only is it good for the local economy, but it actually strengthens your immune system to eat honey produced by hometown bees.

So it’s no surprise honey is showing up in a starring role just about everywhere these days. Columbus dairy darling Jeni Britton Bauer uses it as a base flavor in lots of her imaginative Jeni’s ice creams, from the deceptively simple Honey Vanilla Bean to the superbly salty Pistachio & Honey.

It’s the essence of Brothers Drake mead, an ancient honey wine that can be spotted on trendy menus all across town. Middle West Spirits is getting rave reviews for its Oyo Honey Vanilla Bean vodka, a cake-batterflavored booze perfect for sipping straight.

And Knead spreads a thick layer of the sticky stuff on its addictive Motherclucker chicken sandwich. The masterful concoction involves a juicy buttermilk fried chicken breast, house-cured bacon and roasted poblano chiles. But trust us—after you finish every last bite, what you’ll be raving about is the honey.

Ohio honeycomb from Hull’s Trace Farms, Van Buren summer 2011 l ColumbusDISH.COM l 000

Made In Venezuela

!

Latin Flavor

Cachapas

N. High St.

Gay St.

E Broad St.

Come & Enjoy The Best Venezuelan Food at Casa Sazón Pabellón Venezolano, Arepas* and the Authentic Cachapas*!

Try our deliciously fresh and healthy Latin American food.

We cater to big events and lunch meetings. We also have an extension of El Arepazo Latin Grill on wheels. Is called Yerba Buena Latin Grill.

*Gluten free

Join us on

Mon-Fri 7am - 4pm • At. 8:30am - 3:30pm • Sun Closed 49 North High St. • Columbus, OH 43215 • (614) 221-8311

47 N. Pearl Street | Columbus, Ohio 43215 | 614-228-4830 Mon - Fri 11am-3pm | Sat 11am-4pm Join us on www.elarepazolatingrill.com

Best E ats In The G alaxy !

Award Winning

Authentic eclectic cuisine in a funtastic atmosphere Zagat Rated

We Accept Visa & Mastercard • 5240 Cemetery Rd • Hilliard Closed Mondays www.starlinerdiner.com • (614)529-1198

takeout

pizza

No special equipment is needed. The pizzas bake up just fine on the oven rack.

Fresh from the oven Thanks to Clever Crow’s new take-and-bake option, you can turn your kitchen into a quirky artisinal pizza shop Sto ry by ro b i n Dav i s l Photo by Jo di Miller

G

Clever Crow Pizza 59 Spruce St., N. Market 614-357-1686 1227 N. High St., Short North 614-421-2998 clevercrowpizza.com

etting your hands on an acclaimed Clever Crow pie can be tricky.

The standout artisinal pizza shop doesn’t deliver—in fact, for a time you could only find Clever Crow by venturing into Short North nightclub Circus. A newer North Market location is more convenient, though the market closes by 7 most days.

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But a new take-andbake option means you can pick up one of these cornmeal-sourdough pies topped with house-cured meats and pickled local vegetables anytime and serve it hot from your own oven.

No special equipment is needed. The pizzas bake up just fine on a hot pizza stone, baking sheet or even just the oven rack in 10 to 13 minutes because

the crust is partially baked before they top it.

All you need to do is order ahead—though if the place isn’t busy, the staff can put one together in just a few minutes.

Because both operations are so small, offerings on toppings are limited. Stick to what Clever Crow does best: simple cheese pizza with a mix of mozzarella, fontinella and Par-

mesan over a chunky marinara sauce ($17), or delicious butternut with a squash puree in place of tomato sauce, layers of thinly sliced potatoes, corn and deeply caramelized onions with or without sausage ($19).

Best of all, the takeand-bake pizzas will keep unbaked in the refrigerator for up to three days, so if your plans change, your ’za won’t go to waste.

LOCAL TRADITION NATIONAL ATTENTION Featured on:

• Man vs Food • #35 Tastiest Restaurant on 101 Chowdown Countdown • #3 Burger in the Nation

by Travel Channel

Family owned and operated since 1970

We Don’t Have Customers...

We Have Friends & Family Your hosts: Maria, Gina, John & Captain Nicki

SUNDAY LUNCH MENU 12-3 PM Entrées starting at $10 Includes soup and salad Poultry • Steaks • Chops • Desserts Happy Hour Everyday

Live Lobsters Flown in Daily.

Pick your own.

Open for Lunch Everyday

We’re known worldwide for our burgers, but we have some awesome apps, wings, subs & sandwiches too.

Try us once, and you’ll never be able to shake the cravings

(614) 443-1570 183 Thurman Ave. Columbus, 43206 thethurmancafe.com/crave

Call for reservations: 614.431.1411 1611 Polaris Pkwy | Columbus, OH 43240

WWW.BESTGREEKUSA.COM Gluten Free Options | Healthy | Organic | Fresh | Chemical Free

seasonal

summer

Al Fresco

Bel Lago

Six of our favorite patios for summertime dining Story by G . A . B e nto n l P h oto s by W i l l S h i l lin g

E

verybody wants to eat outside this time of year, and why not? It’s a “carpe diem” kind of thing for an overworked society toiling away indoors and tethered to technology.

Luckily for a landlocked city in the Midwest, we’re blessed with plenty of scenic restaurant porches and patios. There we can catch liberating breaths of fresh air while digging into memorable dishes and

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captivating settings.

So why not unhook yourself from the chattering Twitterverse for a bit and take advantage of these terrific al fresco specialists? This weather’s not going to last forever, you know.

170 N. Sunbury Rd., Westerville 614-891-0200; bellagobistro.com

The patio: Above is a shade-granting awning equipped with gently spinning fans. Below are pleasant, unshaky tables. And stretching out before you is a miragelike boundless horizon—sky merging with the boat-etched expanse of placid liquid mirror that is Hoover Reservoir.

The plates: Bel Lago serves midscale Italian-American fare with an emphasis on fresh pastas, like a skillful spaghetti and meatballs. Other nice picks are the Italian Wedding Soup, steaks and Italian Beef Sandwich.

“Steaks that will fill your appetite without emptying your wallet.”

— Matt the Miller

Let’s Go Somewhere

Delicious.

[ now serving lunch] Join us for

Lunch

MON - FRI 11 - 2:30 PM

35 N. High St. Dublin | DINNER M-TH 5PM-10PM | F-S 5PM-11PM | CLOSED Sundays www.tuccisbistro.com

We proudly serve the Certified Angus Beef ® brand — Angus beef at its best®. Uncompromising standards ensure it’s a cut above USDA Choice and Prime, making it the best-tasting beef available, but don’t take our word on it. Let your taste buds decide.

DUBLIN 6725 Avery-Muirfield Drive | Dublin, OH | 614.799.9100 GRANDVIEW 1400 Grandview Avenue | Columbus, OH | 614.754.1026 www.mtmtavern.com

seasonal

summer

Cabo Cocina

6125 Riverside Dr., Dublin 614-792-9190; hdrestaurants.com

The patio: Hanging out from this comfy stone-lodge-riffing restaurant is Cabo’s chocolate-brown wooden deck.

It’s a foresty perch providing an unrivaled, nest-like vista hovering high near the dense treetops lining the Scioto River where the water snakes its way from Dublin. Spiky, Southwestern-style plants hint at Cabo’s flavors.

The plates: Cabo’s Mexi-Caribbean cuisine includes some interesting, non-traditional dishes like their unique Sweet Plantains, Spicy and Crunchy Tilapia, and Jerk Chicken Chili Relleno.

Barcelona

263 E. Whittier St., German Village 614-443-3699; barcelonacolumbus.com

The patio: Snazzy and secluded, Barcelona’s urban and urbane patio is the most famous in Columbus. And no wonder—it’s a stunner. Lush flowers and foliage sprout from potted plants and sway from shady trees amidst a tall privacy wall and cedary wood.

At night, seductive lighting flickers from romantic, old-timey lanterns.

The plates: Barcelona’s Spanish tapas platters and paellas are their specialties, but give the lamb shank (Cordero) and Tres Cerdos (three pork entree) a shot, too.

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A wine store that learns your palate?

Service doesn’t get much more personal.

At Vino 100, we not only track down great-tasting, artisan wines from all over the world, but we help you choose the exact right ones for your taste. Whether that’s a light, fruity white, a dry, heavy red, or something in between. Everyone’s palate is different. That’s why our approach is too.

Daily tasting • Wines by the glass • Special events

522 Polaris Parkway • At Cleveland Avenue 614.895.VINO (8466) • www.vino100polaris.com

WE’RE ON THE MAP

THE NEW STATE-BY-STATE GUIDE TO 100 GREAT BURGER JOINTS IN USA FEATURES US! Floor-to-ceiling photographs show the brave souls who have ingested the burger that has made the Gahanna famous-the Double Beanie Burger.

The regular Beanie Burger itself is a monster, with its patty of fresh ground beef weighing in at about half a pound.

The Double gives you two half-pound patties, a photo on the wall, and a free T-shirt for your efforts.

The burger is also piled high with lettuce, tomato, grilled onions, bacon, cheese, and a hearty scoop of homemade coleslaw. The burger is a sloppy, tasty mess that is barely contained by its toasted, soft kaiser roll.

82 Granville Street, Gahanna, OH 43230 614-476-9017 • Mon-Sat 11am-10:30pm • Sun Noon-8:30pm

seasonal

summer

Lindey’s

169 E. Beck St., German Village 614-228-4343; lindeys.com

The patio: Lindey’s titillating black-and-brick-themed patio exudes a casual elegance. It’s super sharp, with a gazebo-like bar trimmed in black and copper, a gaze-worthy black three-tiered fountain and lots of handsome plants. A fountain-matching fence encloses this cocktail playground but doesn’t seal off Lindey’s lovely German Village neighborhood.

The plates: Lindey’s excels at lusty bistro dishes like lobster bisque, chopped salad, terrific crabcakes and tournedos in bearnaise sauce.

Mezzo

130 Creekside Plaza, Gahanna 614-476-9900; mezzoitalian.com

The patio: Ducks blithely slice Vs through the greenish ripples of Big Walnut Creek. On another side of Mezzo’s ravishing patio, manmade waterworks geyser up in spurts. A patio fire pit wards off the evening chill as patrons on nifty sofas and wicker chairs leisurely sip wine, surrounded by sculpted bushes and fragrant flowers.

The plates: For a substantial shared snack, go for the gigantic Mezzo Trio (a combo of mozzarella fritters, braised meatballs and prosciutto-wrapped scallops). Also nice are the arugula salad and pizzas, like the meaty Raguso.

Eleven

591 N. High St., Short North 614-225-9611; hydeparkrestaurants.com

The patio: Eleven’s colossal column arcade on “the Cap” rhymes with the nearby city arch proclaiming “Short North.” The party-people-watching patio there flaunts posh indoor-worthy couches and furniture, plus a granite bar jutting out from the bar inside.

Dramatic blue drapes dangle regally from Eleven’s mammoth Cap columns.

The plates: Eleven’s tapas-y menu shows its Hyde Park lineage with steaky Angus Sliders. Likewise good: tuna carpaccio, pork sliders, ginger calamari. s u mm e r 2 0 1 1 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l 0 0 0

SOMETHING GREAT FOR EVERYONE

the epitome of dining out (side)

614.443.3699 barcelonacolumbus.com

G L O B A L

C A T E R I N G

Join us on our patio in Intimate Dublin or Spacious Worthington

Sunday Brunch Dublin and Worthington 11am - 2pm 6880 N. High St. Worthington, OH 614-888-1818

50 West Bridge St. Dublin, OH 614-718-1818

View our entire menu at

www.jliurestaurant.com Full catering and banquet facility available See our website for more details

The same quality food and service you have come to expect from Barcelona Restaurant, now brought to you.

614-425-4986 sidecarcatering@aol.com

chefs

at home

local staples Skillet’s Kevin Caskey invites Crave into his home kitchen Story by Robin Davi s Photos by wi ll shilling

C

hef Kevin Caskey prides himself on using local ingredients and straightforward cooking techniques at Skillet, his cozy restaurant in German Village.

His brunches—think bulgher pancakes, potato-studded omelets and biscuits served with andouille sausage gravy— bring people out to wait in line for up to two hours at the no-reservations hot spot.

And the waits are no better at lunch or dinner, when Caskey whips up dishes like “Mac ’n’ Roll,” a macaroni and gorgonzola dish sitting atop braised shredded beef, or a lamb burger served on brioche with aioli.

His home pantry looks much the same as at the restaurant.

Here are five things Caskey says he always has on hand.

Robin Davis is the Columbus Dispatch’s Food Editor.

To subscribe to her weekly newsletter, visit DispatchKitchen.com.

Skillet 410 E. Whittier St., German Village 614-443-2266; skilletruf.com Hours: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-9 p.m.

Tuesday-Friday, 8 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday-Sunday 5 4 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l s u mm e r 2 0 1 1

WE CRAVE WHAT YOU CRAVE: GREAT EVENTS!

And Crave Magazine wants you to join us for some of the best in and around town this summer.

HERE IS A FEW OF OUR FAVORITES COMING UP:

What’s always in your Kitchen?

1

Snowville Creamery products (from Pomeroy)

“I usually have half-and-half or milk. I use it in everything from cereal to coffee.”

2

San Pellegrino Caskey says he drinks the Italian sparkling water but also likes to use a splash of it in pancake and tempura batters.

“The carbonation makes the batter lighter,” he says.

3

Lard or rendered duck fat “To use on anything like roasted potatoes or vegetables,” he says.

When it comes to lard, he recommends leaf lard,

which comes from around the kidneys, as opposed to standard lard that comes from the intestines.

4

Winchester Hill Farm Eggs (from Circleville)

“The yolk is much richer,” Caskey says. “I think they’re a great indulgence.” He recommends poaching an egg and serving it atop hot pasta so when the yolk is broken, it becomes the sauce.

5

Stutzman grits (from Benton)

“I usually use them as a starch in place of potatoes,” he says.

“I consider it a poor man’s risotto.” He cooks them with a combination of stock and cheese, then may add sweet potatoes, braised greens or pan-roasted mushrooms.

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rise & shine

Sto ry by shelley mann l Photos by j o d i m i l l e r a n d w i l l s h i l l i ng f there are three more magical words in the English language than “breakfast all day,” I don’t know them.

Offer me eggs on a menu, and you can bet I’m going to order them. Breakfast has always been my favorite meal.

Breakfast is the ultimate comfort food, right? It’s warm, filling, stick-to-your-ribs fare. No matter what you order, it’s gonna be filled with carbs. Potatoes are about as close as you get to vegetables.

But let’s get this straight right up front: Breakfast is not the same thing as brunch.

Breakfast is buttered toast to brunch’s creme brulee French toast. Breakfast is OJ to brunch’s mimosas. It’s scrambled eggs instead of quiche.

There’s a camaraderie among those who roll out of bed early and seek out breakfast in Columbus, even though the demographics vary widely.

At Katalina’s Cafe Corner in Victorian Village, the crowd is young and hip. Those who aren’t on breakfast dates are busy checking in and documenting their food on their smartphones.

A visit to Jack & Benny’s on the northern edge of Ohio State’s campus means you’ll be rubbing shoulders with plenty of college kids in warm-up pants. At German Village Coffee Shop, you’re more likely to run into construction workers taking a quick break for food.

The scene at Wildflower Cafe is classic Clintonvillian—you know, young couples, hippies,

lesbians. Grandview’s DK Diner gets a steady stream of customers picking up dozens of their mind-blowingly-good donuts, but their dirt-cheap breakfast specialties are worth sticking around for. Area highschoolers are well aware—lots of them drop in for a bite before school.

And out in the ’burbs, Hilliard’s Starliner Diner attracts an eclectic crowd of families, post-church get-togethers and Latin food lovers from across the city.

My only complaint about Columbus’ thriving breakfast scene is that “breakfast all day” too often translates into “breakfast until we close at 2 p.m.”

Let’s see the 24-hour eggs-andbacon scene expand beyond Tee Jaye’s, please!

DK Diner

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Stack of pancakes from DK Diner 0 0 0 l C o l u m b u s c r a v e . C O M l s u mm e r 2 0 1 1

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rise & shine

Delightful dining Katalina’s Cafe Corner

Coffee alternative Mexican Hot Chocolate

There’s nothing wrong with coffee. But sometimes salty egg-and-cheese dishes scream for a sweeter drink companion. Katalina’s hot chocolate with a kick (made with the beloved Mexican Abuelita chocolate drink mix and topped with a generous dollop of whipped cream) is a sugary shot of straight adrenaline that’ll leave you on cloud nine.

Latin Pancake Balls For the most part, I’m big on greasy spoons, and your standard bacon-eggs-toast plate. For something a tad more special, I head to Katalina’s.

Everything about this place is charming, from the carnival-esque red sign out front to a hand-chalked menu to a fun enameled self-serve water cooler.

And the breakfast dishes themselves are deliciously quirky.

Just take the giggleinducing Latin Pancake Balls ($8.95). Perfect for sweet tooths who aren’t satiated by boring old hotcakes, these half-dozen donut-holelike balls are filled with Nutella or strawberry preserves before being fried to golden brown and sprinkled with powdered sugar.

Adding to the sugar buzz is a puddle of maple syrup for dipping and a pile of the

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cafe’s amazing sweetand-spicy bacon.

Or how about the Seuss-themed dish Green Eggs and Ham ($8.95)? Swear it’s tastier than it sounds.

You get two over-easy eggs drizzled in a basil pesto, some thinly sliced prosciutto, nice big parmesan shavings and some garlicky toast. It’s a clever combo that’ll leave you singing its praises—in rhyme form, of course.

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rise & shine

Dana’s Deluxe B.S. from DK Diner

Cheap eats DK Diner If restaurants described as upscale make you nervous, Grandview’s DK Diner is your place.

A meal there feels more like eating at a neighbor’s than at a restaurant. To give you an idea, you’ll be serving yourself coffee—after you pick

Breakfast for lunch Egg sandwiches

True story: Breakfast is just as delicious (and sometimes even more so!) at lunch and dinnertime.

There’s no need to feel guilty about ordering breakfast for lunch, but sometimes it helps to bridge the gap between the meals by ordering a later-in-theday standard made with early-morning ingredients, like the breakfast sandwich.

DK Diner makes a few of them, including some served on biscuits and English muffins. I prefer the sandwiches served on Texas toast over those McDonald’s-esque options, though.

Dana’s Deluxe B.S. ($4.25) is the most elaborate, with two fried eggs, cheese and a breakfast meat plus lettuce, tomato and mayo. It’s delish and plenty filling for lunch.

For a fancier option, try Katalina’s Country Egg ($9.25). The Victorian Village cafe is famed for its sandwiches, and this all-day option is served on the same sliced old-world loaf as many of the lunch favorites. It’s kind of massive, and stacked with fried eggs, cheddar and prosciutto, amped up flavorwise with some roasted garlic and walnut pesto.

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from among the mismatched mugs sitting out on open shelves.

(Tip: The cream’s hiding in the mini-fridge.)

Slide into a booth and take a look at the wallet-friendly menu.

An egg-and-bacon biscuit sandwich for three bucks, a stack of flapjacks for $3.75 or a cheese omelet for $4.

The most expensive thing on there is the DK All the Way, just $6.50 for a buttermilk biscuit piled with over-

easy eggs, Canadian bacon and home fries, all doused in sausage gravy.

By the way, the DK stands for Donut Kitchen, and you’ll want to pick up a dozen on your way out—you can afford it.

The old-fashioned sour cream ones are the very best in Columbus: charmingly misshapen treats with plenty of nooks and crannies to soak up their thick vanilla glaze.

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rise & shine Counter service at German Village Coffee Shop

Turn back time Classic diner stools If you’re the kind of person who likes to eat out by yourself, grabbing a swivel stool at the counter is essential.

You’ll find ’em at Jack & Benny’s, or grab a red vinyl one at German Village Coffee Shop.

Counter seats offer a chance to strike up a conversation with other solo diners, plus a perfect vantage point for watching the line cooks do their thing.

Jack & Benny’s has been around forever at the corner of Hudson and High, and it’s a favorite of Ohio State students and alums who remember it from their college days.

The name? It comes from a long-gone Downtown restaurant where owner Iggy Garcia’s dad, Genaro, worked after immigrating to the U.S. from Peru. (A great circa-

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1950s photo of that place reveals a neon sign bragging “Food prepared in BUTTER.” Oh yes.)

Despite the somewhat recent addition of a sparsely decorated second dining room, Jack & Benny’s is usually packed. Doesn’t help that it’s the kind of homey diner that encourages lingering over bottomless coffee and the New York Times crossword.

Sign your name to the waitlist right inside the front door and cross your fingers that you’ll

land a booth in the main eating area—it’s where you’ll get the true J&B’s experience, and an up-close look at the kitschy photos and vintage OSU memorabilia tacked to the walls.

German Village Coffee Shop is another local landmark, boasting a fantastic retro sign that claims they’re famous for two dishes: the Western Omelette and the “Best Club Sandwich in Town.”

We’ll save the club sandwich for another discussion, but the Western Omelette is

definitely worthy of the shout-out. It’s just your standard Western ingredients (diced ham, onions, bell peppers and cheese) but served in perfect proportions in a well-executed eggy envelope.

Also worth ordering are the picture-perfect buttermilk pancakes.

These fluffy guys get their addictive crispy edges from being cooked on a decadesold, very well-seasoned grill. It’s best not to think about that very hard. Just gobble them up and smile.

Omelet central Jack & Benny’s

I’m an omelet addict, and I’ve never seen a more impressive selection than at Jack & Benny’s. Nearly two-dozen ingredient combinations are listed, with out-of-the-box offerings like chorizo and apple. The Avocado and Swiss is a favorite—a light, summery combo that benefits from a heavy sprinkling of salt and pepper.

If your appetite is more hearty, try the Farmer Boy, made with four eggs instead of the usual three and stuffed with breakfast goodies like bacon and hashbrowns.

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rise & shine Malted Belgian Waffle from Wildflower Cafe

No-frills classics Wildflower Cafe The breakfast menu at Wildflower is refreshingly basic. Sometimes you don’t need anything more than that. Expect stacks of buttermilk pancakes, biscuits and gravy, and Skillet Scramblers— eggs scrambled with breakfast meats and veggies, all topped with cheese.

It’s nice when the basics are executed as well as they are at this folksy Clintonville standby, though.

Take the French Toast ($5.29). It’s made with thick-cut Challah that’s coated with a cinnamon-and-vanillaspiked egg batter before being grilled and sprinkled with powdered sugar. And it’s fantastic.

The Belgian waffle ($4.79) is a similarly deceptive standout.

A standard-issue, plate-sized waffle gets a flavor boost from the addition of malted milk. Add fresh berries for $1.69 for an extra treat.

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rise & shine

Ethnic eats Starliner Diner Most countries have traditional breakfast plates (an English breakfast, for example, comes with standards like eggs and bacon plus black pudding— aka blood sausage— and baked beans), but flavorwise, it’s hard to beat Latin America’s early-bird offerings.

Hilliard’s Starliner Diner specializes in spicy breakfast fare, served up in a colorful, funky and just-plain fun space. Plop onto the lobby’s well-worn mid-

century aqua couch and admire the oversized family-meal-themed artwork hanging on the walls while you wait (and be prepared to wait—it’s worth it).

In the dining room, an astrologial sun-andmoon mural covers one whole wall, but I’m especially fond of the retro starburst clock collection covering the opposite end. Kitschy Elvis portraits complete the look.

From the menu, you can fulfill tortilla-and-

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black-bean cravings several different ways.

The Huevos Rancheros ($8.50) are impressive.

A crispy corn tortilla raft floats on a pool of soupy black beans, carrying eggs, jack cheese and cilantro. The whole shebang is doused in a spicy ranchero sauce.

Even tastier are the Chilaquiles ($8.50).

Fluffy eggs are scrambled up with peppers, onions, corn, zucchini and crunchy tortilla chips. Throw on some shredded jack cheese, cilantro and a hit of smoked chile cream sauce and you’ve got the stuff cravings are made of.

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EVERY SATURDAY MORNING ON Join Crave Editor Shelley Mann and some of her closest foodie friends for their picks every Saturday morning at 6 a.m. on 10TV Missed some info? Find all of this and more at ColumbusCrave.com.

Coming up, here are some great segments you won’t want to miss: Breakfast in Columbus – Shelley highlights her picks Locally produced craft brews and where to find them Strip Search – there IS good food in strip malls. We will show you!

Patio Dining Season – do your favorites match ours?

Neighborhood Tour – we go on location around Columbus

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Mimosa Flight sage American Bistro 2653 N. High St., Clintonville 614-267-7243 sageamericanbistro.com

sparkle & shine What’s neat about Sage’s impressive lineup of brunchtime mimosas is if you order enough of them, you can conjure the colors of the sunrise. And you’ll want to order a few to go with that fabulous brunch—seriously, the Creme Brulee French Toast will change your life. Our flight includes the classic mimosa (champagne plus OJ) and the yellow Bombay Bellini (OJ is swapped for mango nectar). The Marilyn Monroe gets its pretty pink hue from cranberry, while bitters give the glowy Champagne Cocktail a distinctive bite.

Story by Shelley Mann l Photo by Will shilling

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Craft Beer

Y

ou drive 40 minutes from Columbus toward Lancaster to reach Rockmill Brewery, but it feels like you’ve traveled much farther.

Motoring along a sprawling countryside of rolling hills, you actually see lambs on Lamb Road right before pulling up to the gorgeous Rockmill property.

Rambling around the one-time horse farm, you quickly begin to understand Rockmill is an enchanted kind of place where the flavors of yesteryear flow gracefully into those of today.

Rockmill is anchored by an expansive and fabulously rehabbed house that also functions as a contemporary art gallery—and much of its bold, expressionistic art is equine-themed (when constructed in 1870, it was a horse barn).

Near this is the minuscule brewery itself.

It looks a lot like a garage from the exterior.

But the invigorating

gift in the water

Local beer lovers are uncorking Rockmill, the artisan sensation handcrafted in the Central Ohio countryside Story by G . A . B e n to n Photos by J o d i M i l l e r

Fermented Flavors Matthew Barbee often conducts instore Rockmill tastings at Columbus wine and beer retailers where his ales can be purchased, including the Barrel and Bottle, Weiland’s Gourmet Market, the Hills Market, the Andersons and Gentile’s Wine Sellers. The brewmaster recommends resting his beers for 10 to 15 minutes out of the fridge before sipping.

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flavors emanating from that innocuous-looking little building since production started last September have been huge and unforgettable.

You actually taste the past frothing up into the present with every sip of Rockmill beer. For starters, that’s because this modern, certified organic “nanobrewery” taps into an ancient, glacier-created underground spring to produce its worldclass Belgian-style ales.

Secondly, Rockmill’s individualistic, onebarrel-at-a-time ethos dictates the beers be handcrafted with a stubborn adherence to old-world methodologies.

But why brew notoriously eccentric and complex Belgiantype beers in farmcountry Ohio? Matthew Barbee, the energetic young brewmaster of Rockmill’s pocket-sized family business (it’s just Matthew and his parents) explained that his stepfather, Dennis, a trained hydrogeologist,

Witbier

Saison

Tripel

Dubbel

This floral beer has arousing pineapple and apple pie notes, plenty of carbonation and a clean, dry and clove-blossoming finish.

This coppery colored, bracing refresher has some banana esters and apricot in the nose to go with a powerful load of spices, like cloves and coriander.

Extra malt results in a richer body plus the high ABV typical of a Tripel.

Flavors of apricot, citrus and a bito-honey give way to a refreshingly bitter finish.

Attractively figgy brown, the Dubbel has a complex, homebrew taste with touches of toffee that resolves into a pleasant rush of bitter dark chocolate.

drink

Craft Beer

Buckeye Beer Scene

Columbus is home to lots of brewpubs, where beer brewed on premises is paired with, say, delicious barbecue. One advantage to running a straight-up brewery like Rockmill is being able to focus solely on creating one-of-a-kind refreshments without dealing with the day-to-day business of running a restaurant. Here’s a look at the rest of the state’s microwbrewery scene.

Story by S h e l l e y M a nn

Buckeye Brewing

Brewing out of: Cleveland Began brewing: 1997 Known for: Buckeye brews everything from German-style Kolsch to Belgian-style Saison, but they’re famous for their hoppy pale ales and IPAs. Best-known beer: Hippie IPA, a West Coast-style citrusy pale ale What’s new: Zatek 2011, a sweet tropical-style stout similar to what you’d find in the Caribbean

Hoppin’ Frog Brewery Brewing out of: Akron Began brewing: 2000 Known for: Brewmaster Fred

Karm creates flavorful beers by using a special brewing system that incorporates more barley than is usual.

Best-known beer: B.O.R.I.S. the Crusher Oatmeal Imperial Stout, a deep-roasted chocolatey dark beer What’s new: Hop Dam Triple IPA, an intense and superhoppy 10% ABV brew

Indigo Imp Brewery Brewing out of: Cleveland Began brewing: 2008 Known for: The family-

run microbrewery puts out naturally carbonated, unfiltered, unpasteurized Real

Ales—so expect to find some brewer’s yeast lurking in the bottom.

Best-known beer: Blonde Bombshell, a smooth and fruity American blonde ale What’s new: Firebrand, a spicy and fruity amber-colored ale that’s a twist on an IPA

Mt. Carmel Brewing Company

Brewing out of: Cincinnati Began brewing: 2005 Known for: Mike and Kathleen Dewey produce handcrafted bottles and kegs out of their 1924 farmhouse.

Best-known beer: Amber Ale, a slightly sweet and fruity brew What’s new: Springtime Ale, a rich and malty Scottish-style beer

Rust Belt Brewing

Brewing out of: Youngstown Began brewing: 2008 Known for: Former police officer Ken Blair brews his unfiltered beers, made with Youngstown tap water, from a former railroad station building.

Best-known beer: Rusted River Irish Red Ale, a amber beer with hints of caramel and hazelnut What’s new: XOXO

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Doppelsticke Altbier, a dark German beer inspired by the high-quality stuff Blair drank while stationed in Germany with the Army

Thirsty Dog Brewing Company

Brewing out of: Akron Began brewing: 1996 Known for: Excellently named

beers (Old Leghumper!

Hoppus Maximus!) crafted in small batches with carefully chosen ingredients.

Best-known beer: Old Leghumper, a dark brown chocolatey porter What’s new: Whippet Wheat, an unfiltered weizen with clove and banana flavors

Weasel Boy Brewing Brewing out of: Zanesville Began brewing: 2002 Known for: Longtime

homebrew aficionado Jay Wince started sharing his craft beers, named mostly after rodents, with the masses a few years back.

Best-known beer: Anastasia Russian Imperial Stout, an inky black brew with dark chocolate and espresso flavors What’s new: Wiley Wolverine RyePA, an American-style pale ale with lots of rye malt

discovered that Rockmill’s spring-fed, pristine well water has a remarkably similar profile to the waters of Wallonia—the Belgian region famous for fermented treasures like Trappist Monk and Saison ales.

Exhibiting the lyrical passion that drives his beer-making obsession, Barbee momentarily steadied his animated face and proclaimed, “We have a gift in the water.”

And since beer is about 90 percent water, that’s a really good thing for Rockmill Brewery. But great water without brewing artistry does not equal great beer.

So when sampling Rockmill’s clearly accomplished ales, you might reasonably assume Barbee had been brewing for a considerably long time. Unless you count two and a half years a considerably long time, you’d be wrong.

Rockmill Brewery was built inside an old horse barn in Lancaster

Banana Leaf After graduating from rural Bloom Carroll High School and Miami University, the ambitious Barbee reached for the stars and found them as a manager at a Los Angeles talent agency that handles actors like Adam Sandler and Brad Pitt.

While life in L.A. was exciting, Barbee sorely missed his family. On a warm California day before returning to Ohio, Barbee had his first taste of the beer that would change his life: a crisp and refreshing Saison (a centuries-old Wallonian style designed to revive overheated harvest laborers).

His reaction: “Whoa, this is beer?”

Prior to this, Barbee’s interest in libations was largely confined to wine. In fact, he’d grown up passionate about wine and food partly due to the influence of his grandfather, a vintner at Wyandotte and Breitenbach wineries

in Ohio. Barbee had even entertained a longtime dream of opening his own winery someday.

Back in Ohio, on his family’s recently acquired Rockmill grounds, Barbee found himself wondering, “It’s so beautiful here, what would I do if I stayed?” Then the memory of that juicy Saison came rushing back. The thrilling discovery of Rockwell’s well water composition followed. Soon thereafter, Barbee feverishly immersed himself in the art and craft of small-batch brewing.

But if inspiration came in a single sip of Saison, frustration and desperation accumulated by the barrelful of dumped, unsuccessful beers. After two tough years of missing his L.A. friends and feeling like he’d “been brewing under a rock,” Barbee’s tireless study and ferocious work finally began to pay off.

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Craft Beer You can enjoy the effervescing proof of Barbee’s hard-won success by tipping one of Rockmill’s handsomely decorated bottles.

Bearing the shadowy images of horses in homage to the farm’s previous existence, the artwork and even the bottles themselves have been carefully selected.

That’s because Barbee’s the kind of intense brewer who literally loses sleep over such things. This restless and infectious enthusiasm has also brought him into personal relationships with the globally prestigious organic yeast, hops and specialty barley suppliers he has meticulously chosen. And it clearly fires his desire to produce stellar beers that demand attention.

“Saison is more a mindset than a style,” is the sort of provocative comment Barbee shares while sipping his beers. He said this while proudly pouring his own spicily hopped version into an elegant Rockmill glass—a delicately etched, tapered bowl that allows the complex ale’s bouquet to be long savored. Barbee then began excitedly pairing his Saison and other lovingly produced quaffs (a clean and refreshing Witbier, a chocolatey Trappist-like Dubbel and a seductively potent Tripel) with fine cheeses, olive oils, breads and chocolates.

He obviously takes genuine delight in effectively matching his beers with complementing

Rockmill Brewery owners Dennis Smalley and Matthew Barbee

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Rockmill’s artisan beers are handcrafted with a stubborn respect for oldworld methods

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Bottle Service Rockmill beers are available in discriminating Columbus hotspots like DeepWood Tavern, the Jury Room, Mouton and other eateries listed below. Prospective imbibers should be thirsty, willing to share and/or have access to a cab—Rockmill’s only sold in 750 milliliter “corked and caged” Champagne-like bottles, and costs upwards of $20 in local restaurants.

The thick, shatter-resistant vessels are necessary because all Rockmill ales are bottle conditioned—meaning they undergo a final, in-bottle fermentation to produce and trap the propulsive carbon dioxide gas that carbonates the beer. Bottle conditioning will also cloud the beer and guarantees yeasty dregs—an acquired taste that brewmaster Matthew Barbee relishes and recommends enjoying in concentrated, final slurps.

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foods. His eyes likewise light up as he discusses upcoming projects—such as a Tripel aged in a Middle West Spirits whiskey barrel (for yet more complexity) and a brand-new Jeni’s ice cream made with Rockmill beer (that marriage consecrated in local-flavor heaven should debut later this month).

Though Barbee’s production is rapidly increasing—he can barely keep pace with demand—no

matter how much his business expands, he insists he’s committed to doing things the methodical way, the right way, the Rockmill way. “Really, we’re on our own path,” Barbee said.

True enough, Rockmill is traveling on its own untrodden road. But this bold new trail winds way far back to a winemaking grandfather, an old horse farm, a harvest in Wallonia and an ancient glacier.

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PERFECT PAIRINGS Cocktail

Maker’s Manhattan ($8) Third & Hollywood mixes Maker’s with Vya vermouth, bitters and bourbon-soaked cherries. Next to the pork, Pearlberg said, “The smoky flavor of the bourbon and the sweetness of the vermouth go over really well.”

Wine Belle Glos Meiomi pinot noir ($10 glass/$35 bottle) The entree’s sides really shine next to this California wine, Pearlberg said. “The pungent fruit notes complement the fruitiness of the pork chop and the sweetness of the cabbage and pear accompaniments.”

Beer Rockmill Tripel ($29, 750-ml. bottle)

CHOP COMPLEMENTS Story by B R I A N L I NDA MOOD l P h oto s by W ill shilling

T

hird & Hollywood makes great food look easy. Of course, an awful lot of attention to detail is hiding behind that relaxed vibe.

Take the impossibly tender Righteous Grilled Pork Chop ($24). Simple, homey

comfort food, right?

Yes, except your mom didn’t brine her pork chops for two days and sous-vide them for four hours before finishing them on the grill. And she probably didn’t top them with braised red cabbage and roasted pears, either.

The Grandview

7 6 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l s u mm e r 2 0 1 1

restaurant puts just as much effort into their classic cocktail menu, craft beer selection and wine list. So what kind of drink do you order to complement all that flavor? We asked general manager Gabrielle Pearlberg for her advice on the pork chop’s perfect pairings.

Katy and Kevin Malhame opened Third & Hollywood in 2009. The couple also owns three Northstar Cafe locations.

Third & Hollywood 1433 W. Third Ave., Grandview 614-488-0303 thirdandhollywood.com

They love Rockmill at Third & Hollywood, and Pearlberg happily recommended the Lancaster brewery’s organic golden ale.

“Because the pork chop is so delicate,” she said, “I like to pair it with a full-bodied beer.”

Breakfast Omelettes Simply the perfect way to start your day Our 3 egg omelettes are stuffed with your favorite ingredients!

Two Eggs and Toast ................................2.50 Western Omelette .......................................5.75 Two large Grade A eggs, cooked to order served with white, wheat or rye toast or an English muffin Loaded with tomatoes, onions, green peppers, mushrooms, Breakfast Sandwich.................................4.95 ham, and American cheese served with your choice of toast Egg with choice of ham, bacon or sausage, Swiss or American cheese Veggie cheese omelette .............................. 5.25 with lettuce, tomato, & mayo served on white toast with potato chips Fresh tomatoes, onions, green peppers, and mushrooms Add Extra Egg .........................................1.00 with choice of American, swiss, or cheddar cheese served Add Extra Meat(per meat) .........................1.00 with toast French Toast Two Slices of Cinnamon French Toast .......2.00 Ham and cheese omelette ............................ 4.50 Three Slices of Cinnamon French Toast ......2.75 Ham and choice of American, swiss, or cheddar cheese served with toast Each Additional Slice of French Toast Hotcakes Cheese omelette.......................................... 3.50 Three Fluffy Round Hotcakes ..................3.75 Your choice of American, swiss, or cheddar cheese served Short Stack .............................................2.75 with toast One Hotcake ...........................................1.75 Add Blueberries or Chocolate Chips (subject to availability) per cake ........................... 0.50 Create your own omelette Add bacon, sausage, ham, turkey, or hash browns to any omelette (per item) ................................................... 1.00 Add chicken .............................................. 2.00 Add Tomatoes, Onions, Mushrooms, Green Peppers, Jalapeño or Banana Peppers ........................... .50

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TOP NOTCH, HOUSE MADE, COMFORTABLE SETTING Breakfast and lunch served all day.

Breakfast Side Orders Hungry??? Add one or two of these to your meal Oatmeal ..................................................2.50 Bacon, Ham, Turkey, or Sausage ................1.95 Hash Browns ...........................................1.75 Add Cheese ..............................................0.50 Add Onions ..............................................0.50 Bagel (Plain, wheat, sesame, or poppy seed) ......1.50 Toast (white, wheat, rye, or an English muffin) ...0.75 Additional Egg..........................................1.00

Mon-Fri 6:30am-2pm • Sat 6:30-3pm • Sun 8am-3pm 193 Thurman Avenue, Columbus, Ohio 43206 • 614-443-8900 • gvcoffeeshop.om

2010

• Warm up with our new spring menu • • Catering available •

Hours: Mon-Sat 7am-5pm, Sun 8am-5pm 680 N. Pearl St., Columbus, OH www.tasicafe.com

Mexican Food Authentic Maxican Happy day 4p-8p Happy hour hour every everyday

$5 OFF

any food order of $25 or more Valid Sunday - Thursday. Dine-in only.

One coupon per table.

Valid at all locations with coupon.

Expires 9/1/11 - DISH

2 Combination dinners includes 2 soft drinks, guacamole or cheese dip and chips.

Only $20

Valid Sunday - Thursday. Dine-in only.

One coupon per table.

Valid at all locations with coupon.

Expires 9/1/11 - DISH

$6 OFF

Buy one entrée get 2nd

50% OFF

$3 OFF

any food order of $30 or more

of equal or lesser value

any food order of $15 or more

Valid Sunday - Thursday. Dine-in only.

One coupon per table.

Valid at all locations with coupon.

Expires 9/1/11 - DISH

Valid Sunday - Thursday. Dine-in only.

One coupon per table.

Valid at all locations with coupon.

Expires 9/1/11 - DISH

Valid Sunday - Thursday. Dine-in only.

One coupon per table.

Valid at all locations with coupon.

Expires 9/1/11 - DISH

elvaquerorestaurants.com

Locations in Dublin, Grove City, Powell, Delaware, Polaris, Gahanna, Columbus, Hilliard

scene

Closing time

Eddie Shepherd Age: 32 General manager

The Jury Room

22 E. Mound St., Downtown 614-220-0964

Hometown: Springfield

Man about town Jury Room’s Eddie Shepherd shares his favorite places to eat and drink in Columbus Story by Jacki e M a nt e y l P h oto by J o d i Mi l ler

W

hen restaurateur Elizabeth Lessner asked Eddie Shepherd to steer her newest ship, The Jury Room, there was no hesitation from the former Sage general manager.

Since moving to Columbus in 1997, Shepherd watched from the sidelines as Lessner built her powerhouse family of Betty’s, Tip Top, Surly Girl and Dirty Frank’s Hot Dog Palace.

“If her name is associated with it,” Shepherd said, “you know it will be good.”

Lessner is equally smitten with Shepherd, a former hotel manager who left for culinary school in Philadelphia when he decided he “wanted to play.”

“I love his positive energy,” Lessner says, “and his unique ability to make even the most hectic moments a whole lot of fun.”

We asked Shepherd—“a Columbus superstar in the restaurant business,” according to Lessner—to share his thoughts on where else he likes to eat.

short orders

Where Eddie Shepherd heads when he’s in the mood for something specific

l What are your favorite things from the menu at The Jury Room?

When I’m real hungry, I go straight for the pasta Bolognese or chicken marsala.

As for drinks, the Nina West cocktail, of course. Or a slightly dirty Watershed Gin martini.

l Where do you go after a long night at Jury Room?

Level Dining Lounge.

Great drinks, amazing staff and great food, too. l What if you’re planning a dinner out to celebrate a special occasion?

Alana’s.

Wine:

Steak:

Seafood:

Sandwich: Burger:

Dessert:

“Alana’s. She has a fantastic wine list. I let her pick for me.”

“The Top. Definitely. I love the strip steak.”

“Ocean Club.

I usually go for sea bass or one of their awesome specials.”

“Mac’s Cafe.

I always get their Reuben.”

“Pistacia Vera or Jeni’s. Half the fun is always trying something new.”

7 8 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l s u mm e r 2 0 1 1

“Graffiti Burger. Gotta get the Graffiti Burger.”

Marion and Clintonville now Open!

Look for new locations coming soon Mention this ad and bring a friend to buy one get one FREE 10 oz. Yogurt

of lesser or equal value One per customer. Can not be combined with any other offers. Expires 8/31/2011

3665 N. High St., Clintonville, OH 43214 614-447-8600 1677 Marion Mt. Gilead Rd., Ste. 500, Marion, OH 43302 740-389-6100

www.groovyspoon.com

Patio Now Open!

Every Every Monday Monday -- Friday Friday 11 11 -- 2pm 2pm $7.49 $7.49 Lunch Lunch Specials Specials Every Every Monday Monday -- Thursday Thursday 44 -- 7pm 7pm $2.50 All Mexican Beers $2.50 All Mexican Beers Full Full Service Service Bar Bar l Where’s your favorite Downtown lunch spot?

Rigsby’s Kitchen if I’m feeling fancy. The beet salad is delicious and they have really good specials. Or Dirty Frank’s for a light lunch. The Sriracha Slaw Dog is heaven on a bun. l What now-closed Columbus restaurant do you miss most?

Handke’s Cuisine. Hands down. l If you could hire a Columbus chef to cook your dream dinner, who would you ask and what would you order?

Hartmut Handke can cook me anything he wants. It’s guaranteed to be absolutely incredible.

l What’s your most memorable local dining experience?

L’Antibes holds a wine tasting every month and the Christmas dinner they serve is truly remarkable. Chef Matthew Litzinger is brilliant ... the Handke of the current Columbus dining scene.

Gahanna 93 North High St. 614-532-5788

Worthington/ Campus View

Polaris/Westerville 2127 Polaris Parkway.

614-781-0751

614-547-0246

7475 Vantage Dr. At Rt. 23 & I-270

Across from Germain Ampitheatre in the Polaris Neighborhood Center

www.elacapulcorestaurant.com • *Open 7 Days a Week

l What restaurant would you consider to be the city’s hidden gem?

Basi Italia is hidden and definitely a gem. l Do you have any special requests when ordering food?

Nope. I’m the easiest guy to serve because I’m so lowmaintenance. I want it the way the chef designed it and I eat everything.

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sweet!

Baked Alaska Mitchell’s ocean club 4002 easton station, easton 614-416-2582 mitchellsoceanclub.com

State of art Looking to wow someone? This’ll do the trick.

The stunning tower of vanilla, chocolate and raspberry ice creams encased in toasted meringue elicits oohs, ahhs and sometimes even applause. Fun fact: Delmonico’s Restaurant in New York City coined the name Baked Alaska in 1876 to honor the newly acquired territory.

Story by S helley Mann Photo by Will shilling

SAKURA

JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE

WEEKLY LUNCH SPECIAL Steak, Chicken & Shrimp Appetizer, Salad, Soup, Vegetables, Steamed Rice & Drink

ONLY $11.50

10% OFF with company ID Card 4210 Stelzer Rd., Columbus, OH 43219 Call for Reservations 614.476.6088 www.sakuraeaston.com Serving Lunch and Dinner Book your private event of 40 people or more and enjoy the savings.

Call for more details Su

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270

Stelzer Rd.

Morse Rd.

Easton Town Center

SPECTACULAR

SUNDAY BRUNCH Station to Station Serving from 10:00am - 2:30pm Salad Selections • Bread Station Chef ’s Selections • Seafood Table Breakfast Station • Pasta & Fajita Station Carving Station • Dessert Station Cappuccino & Juice Station

Enjoy a romantic dinner and a birds-eye view of the Port Columbus runways on our beautiful patios.

94th AERO

SQUADRON 5030 Sawyer Road • 614-237-8887 www.94thaero.com