11 minute read
Chopper Charlie
idon’t hardly even know where to start this article. So much has happened since my last writing. When I last checked in, I was sitting in Tbilisi, Georgia, scratching my head and trying like crazy to find a way into Russia. As it turns out, all that head-scratching proved to be helpful, and after only my second attempt at the nerve-wracking border crossing, I was granted entry, however, not before a lengthy interrogation in a small uncomfortable room. It was one of those situations where about halfway through the questioning, I was seriously considering just telling the interrogator that I had changed my mind and would return to Georgia. It was that intimidating. I decided, however, that doing that would make me look guilty of something, so I opted to continue answering the questions as best I could while trying to hide the sweat that was collecting on my brow. After a couple of hours of this, the gentleman behind the desk quickly stood up and told me I was free to go. I, of course, had to clarify…good to go into Russia or good to go back to Georgia? He told me I was clear to enter Russia. I quietly jumped for joy.
So, how have my last three
weeks in Russia been? If I am going to be honest, it’s been pretty incredible, and there is one thing in particular that I have been especially impressed by. The motorcycle community here is one of the tightest and most organized that I have ever seen. Before entering the country, I was expecting to be on my own, spending my evenings in hotels and camping. I wondered how I would handle mechanical issues with a massive language barrier if I needed to find parts. I wondered if I would be well received or if I would be the unwanted foreign guest. As it turns out, I have spent only one night in a hotel and have been treated like a guest of honor. In the few instances where I have needed help, more people offered to assist than was necessary. On the very first day, I was met at the border by a local MC who put me up with a place to stay for two nights, refused to let me pay for anything, and took me on a lengthy tour of the area around the town of Magas and the Oblast of Ingushetia. Upon leaving Magas, they coordinated a place for me to stay in Elista, where I was met with the same hospitality. When I left Elista, the
same happened again. This has continued to happen every day along the 3,000 plus miles I have covered within the Russian border.
There is a bike post system set up all along the Transyberian highway that is dedicated to hosting motorcycle travelers making the long and arduous journey across this massive country. There are plenty of clubhouses that keep their doors open for blurry-eyed travelers like myself. The bike posts vary from someone’s private home to a hostel-like setup, but either way, they are always available, and the cost is a donation system. You pay what you can afford, but payment is not expected. In addition, the operators of these bike posts are in constant communication about who is traveling, where they are, and when to expect them. Every day since I have been here, someone has checked in to verify my location and time of arrival. Most of the time, I’ve even been met at the edge of town and gotten an escort straight to the bike post where a warm meal awaits me. Organized and functional, these people are dedicated to the safety of those travelers making the long journey. I have never felt more supported in a country as I have here.
The ride itself has been interesting. Some of what I expected and a lot of what I did not. In reality, there is really only one road across Russia. You are left to contend with a fair amount of trucks, local traffic, and other tourists such as myself. This all adds up to a fair amount of congestion and the occasional madness of cars and trucks overtaking slow-moving vehicles in your lane, often three wide on a two-lane road. Situations like this are why the Transyberian Highway is considered one of the most dangerous roads in the world. Fortunately, I have only had two occasions where I had to lock up the brakes and consider heading for the ditch. Stay far to the right, keep up with traffic and keep an eye on traffic approaching from behind is the best policy. Cars will not hesitate to share a lane with you. Fortunately, though, as I have ventured further east, well into Siberia at the moment, traffic has begun to shake loose, but the next hurdle is quickly approaching. Once I leave the small village of Chita, things will likely get very interesting.
There will be long stretches between towns, upwards of 750 miles, that have to be covered in one day and preferably before nightfall. Fuel stations are sparse so carrying extra gas is a must. It is almost guaranteed that I will not make it between gas stations without spare fuel with me. I have been told that the Far East is nothing but trees and bears, so keep moving. This is what I have been waiting for. This is the experience I want.
This all being said, and as intimidating as it may sound, I have learned something about the Russian people and especially those in Siberia. These are people who work together to keep each other safe. They are people who understand the importance of watching out for each other. I suppose when you live in a part of the world as remote as this and in a climate that is often harsh beyond comprehension, you begin to learn the importance of helping your
neighbor in a time of need. I have no doubt that if something were to happen to me while traveling through the areas of nothing but trees and bears, it wouldn’t be long before someone stopped to help. It is the Siberian way.
At the moment, I am sitting in Irkutsk, a city on the front porch of Lake Baikal, doing a little bike maintenance before making the final push to either Vladivostok or Magadan. The latter will only happen if I can find a travel companion as that road feels like too much to tackle alone. In fact, it might be too much to tackle with even a full support crew on a bike like mine, but I am always up for a good challenge. So until next time, break out those maps and start planning an adventure of your own. It’s a big world with a lot to offer.
how do you select the best bike in a show with over a hundred of the best bikes you have ever seen? And not only the best bikes but the most diverse group of rare and sought-after motorcycles, brands that elude even the master collectors. Well, we did the best we could. No, seriously, it was precisely the bike to pick in the room I just described. During the Cherokee Chapters Texas Fandango, we again had the privilege of sponsoring the bike show in the main hall. This year, Heather and I would be damned if we weren’t there in person to lend a hand, and that included the auspicious honor of helping judge this incredible show. Now, when I say that the bikes that entered were unparalleled, I mean to tell you there are only a handful of shows in the country where you would be able to see a collection like this. Still, dollar for dollar, side by side, when you added up all the plus and minus marks, Jeff Sharer came out with the perfect example of a 1972 FLH Harley. It was, in fact, the Best In Show!
As it sat on the regional airport runway in all it’s hot pink metallic glory, Jeff explained that he had just acquired the bike about two months before the show. It had been painstakingly restored in New Jersey by the original owner.
Jeff is a real estate agent in Texas but his passion for motorcycles in the off hours has him tracking down beauties like this one. Currently, he owns seven Harley-Davidson’. However, he’s owned more than thirty others in his life. That collection started with an ’83 5-speed Shovel on a Paughco rigid frame he scored when he was a younger man. He and his wife rode that bike everywhere for years until he had a chance to sell it to level up to another bike he wanted. That was where the collecting bug started. While this bike is Jeff’s favorite, he was quick to include details of a 1972 Boattail Superglide that he is also very fond of. Strangely enough, it is the same “Sparkling Burgundy” that this one is dressed in. The list continues with a ’61 Panhead, a ’97 springer, and ’80 Shoveled. Shovelheads, in general, have a place in his heart, maybe because that was where he started, but in any event, they are by far his favorite.
When it came to how he ran across this old girl, Jeff was trying to buy an 80 model FLH from a guy on eBay but missed it. Sharer reached out anyway, and the guy said he only had one Shovel left and sent a picture of the bike you see here. Jeff explained he had the matching ’72 Boattail, and the man agreed that he had to have this bike. The two men discussed some trading, Jeff had an ’84 XR1000 that caught the seller’s attention, and a deal was made. While this bike is clean as hell and a beautiful example of its breed, it was also done perfectly. You see, the term dresser came out of an era that this bike exemplifies. They were bikes that were all dressed up for touring, showing, and riding. But believe it or not, they could be overdone in that capacity. A little too much in lighting or bling, cabbage cutters that were way too big, and all of a sudden, this bike wouldn’t be as perfect. In fact, from the judges that I worked with, we all felt that it had exactly the right number of adornments and factory accessories that added up to class. It was elegant in its simplicity. While the Fandango show contained many bikes that were more expensive, a few that were rarer, as far as a show
Owner:Jeff SHarer City/State: Van Alstyne, TX Builder: Unkown Year: 1972 Model: FLH Time: Value: $20,000 ENGINE Year: 1972 Model: FLH Builder: Ignition: Stock Displacement: 74cu Pistons: Stock Heads: Stock Carb: Stock Cam: Stock Air Cleaner: Stock Exhaust: Dual Fishtails Primary: Stock TRANSMISSION Year: 1972 Make: Harley Davidson Shifting: 4 speed FRAME Year: 1972 Model: FLh Rake: Stock Stretch: Stock FORKS Builder: Harley Davidson Type: Stock Triple Trees: Stock Extension: WHEELS Front Wheel: Spoke Size: 16” Tire: Front Brake: Stock Rear Wheel: Spoke Size: 16” Tire: Rear Brake: Stock PAINT Painter: Color: Sparkling burgundy Type: Graphics: Chroming: ACCESSORIES Bars: Lowbrow Customs Risers: Unknown Hand Controls: Unknown Foot Controls: Harley Davidson/ Olson Special Mid Pegs Gas Tank(s): Lowbrow Customs Oil Tank: Lowbrow Customs Front fender: Unknown Rear Fender: Lowbrow Customs Seat: Throttle Addiction Headlight: Universal Cycle Taillight: Spare Parts Special Speedo: Slow Photographer: chris callen quality motorcycle, this was just on another level. I’m a little eager to tell you that despite all my chopper lovin’ roots that usually can’t wait to get an old Shovel into the shop to tear down and chopperize, I’m afraid this one would have to stay exactly like it sits. Probably be our Sunday Ice Cream runner! Thanks Jeff, for bringing it to the show, and thanks to everyone in the Cherokee Chapter for having us.