March Issue 2021

Page 1

RNI REGD. NO. DELENG/2008/23959 DL©-10/1186/2020-2022 Annual Subscription Rs. 1500/Date of Publication 09/03/2021 Posted at N.I.E, H. O., ND-28, on 16-17 March 2021

INDIA

COMMUNION Volume 14

Issue 3

New Textile Policy is at draft stage by Textile Minister MSME sector emerges as growth engine of economy

March 2021

Page 72

Textile industry grows despite pandemic in China Pakistan: Allow cotton imports from India

PLI scheme to make major impact on MSMEs MARCH 2021

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Two mega textile parks to come up in Gujarat Textile industry has opportunities in ... New Textile Policy is at draft stage: Textile Minister State textile biz to touch Rs 70kcr in DBS unveils pilot programme in India on ... UP invites Vietnamese participation in textile sector MSME sector emerges as growth ... New lab to test cotton and yarn in southern India KVIC’s e-market portal promotes ..... Textile and apparel export: Tamil Nadu .... Info on refund rates for garment exporters Milestone with STYCHECO and BeProduct Knitwear exporters want rollback of amendment ... Tirupur to host CEO Summit along with ... Birla Cellulose named as winner for Golden .... Oshadi helps cotton farmers to switch to ... PLI scheme to make major impact on MSMEs Moody’s sees 7% contraction in India this .... Haryana MSMEs to challenge new job .... Last date for filing annual GST return .... CFTA offers immense potential for Indian .... FDI inflows in India top $ 67 Bn during .... Lycra to strengthen.... ‘House of Brands’ Walmart plans to t....India to $10 bn annually India’s economic recovery enters ... ITMA 2023 Stand Space Application .... TextileIndustry gears up for strong ....

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ASIA China: Peru terminates anti-dumping .... China: Exports spike to highest in .... China: Leading ....clothes to Kenya in 2020 China’s economy grew 2.3% in 2020 Pakistan: Allow cotton imports from India Pakistan: Imports of ... By APTMA Pakistan: PRGMEA ...import of fabrics under DTRE Bangladesh: Appeals ...duty on apparel exports Bangladesh: Opens $100 million PPE plant Bangladesh: Going ..through its fashion waste Japan: Teijin Establishes Europe ...

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Editorial

Recently, Haryana Government has implemented ‘Haryana State Employment of Local Candidates Act, 2020’, providing 75 per cent reservation in private sector jobs for the state’s residents. The Act states that all the companies, societies, trusts, limited liability partnership firms, partnership firms and any person employing 10 or more persons and an entity,shall be required to employ 75 per cent local candidates for the posts where the gross monthly salary or wages are not more than Rs. 50,000. The Employer will have to submit quarterly report on this account which would be scrutinized by the state officers.It has been started from Haryana, soon it would be extended to other states also. Haryana is not the first state which is trying to reserve employment, the other states such as Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka and Maharashtra have already tried to implement such law. B.S. Yediyurappa-led Karnataka government’s new industrial policy has envisaged 70 per cent job quota for Kannadigas. There is a strong demand coming in from other states, like Uttar Pradesh, Uttarakhand, Madhya Pradesh, Gujarat, and Rajasthan, for such legislation. Several top industrialists were of the view that the move of restricting employment may not be in the interest of industry. No doubt, enacting such law would provide chances for employment at home but we have to see in totality. Industrialization has not taken place uniformly all over the India. Some states like Haryana, Maharashtra, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka etc are having more industries as compared to other states like UP, Bihar, Odisha, Assam etc. Peoples with industrialized states would have ample opportunities whereas peoples of other states would have not. Such law would create discrimination on the ground of settlement, which is violation of Article 16(1) and 16(2) of the constitution, which states that state cannot discriminate against any citizen in the matters of employment. Irony is that BJP Government in Center is trying to give message about “Akhand Bharat” whereas its state governments are discriminating Indian on the basis of settlement. It is known fact that textile sector is driven by MSMEs and sector employ mostly unskilled and semi-skilled workers having wages less Rs. 50,000 per month. Therefore, textile sector is going to be affected badly with such law.

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INDIA

India

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Two mega textile parks to come up in Gujarat

n a major boost to the textile industry and to enable forward and backward integration in the sector, the government of Gujarat has announced establishment of two mega textile parks during the budget presentation in Gandhinagar. These parks will be set up as part of the Union Budget announcement, of setting up seven mega textile parks. Industry players feel the move will go a long way in making the industry globally competitive. “Mega Investment Textile Parks will make the industry more competitive at a global level and this will not just boost exports but at the back-end, it will also help generate more employment. At the same time, a single cluster will definitely help bring in more investments in the textile sector,” said Chintan Thaker, cochair, Assocham – Gujarat state Council. “This will give an impetus to MSMEs in the textile sector, which is the highest employment generator after

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Textile industry has opportunities in infrastructure, healthcare

agriculture. It will help ancillary units in textiles in a big way. Moreover, the plug-and-play model for the park will aid employment generation and also give an ecosystem to exporters and domestic manufacturers,” said Thaker. Industry stakeholders also said that the state government’s announcement on the Rs 1,500 crore outlay for providing subsidy to the industries under the textile policy will also go a long way in boosting competitiveness of the domestic manufacturers. Vijay Purohit, president, Gujarat Garment Manufacturers’ Association (GGMA), said, “A cluster approach not just brings in investments but instead it also helps build an entire textile value chain, which is currently very segregated in different geographical locations. This will help the industry grow, scale-up and innovate while being more competitive.”

he Indian textile and clothing sector has several opportunities in the infrastructure and healthcare sectors, Union Minister for Textiles Smriti Zubin Irani has said. Inaugurating the Global Textile Conclave, organised virtually by the Confederation of Indian Textile Industry, the Minister said the Union Budget this year had proposed capital expenditure ofRs. 1 lakh crore in infrastructure projects next financial year and anotherRs. 1 lakh crore in railways. The Jal Jeevan Mission of the Union Government was not only to provide clean drinking water but also to develop water bodies in rural areas. These were also markets for the textile industry to focus on. The National Mission on Technical Textiles was to enhance the research capabilities, technology and production of technical textiles in India. There were opportunities in Buildtech, Meditech, etc. “The PPE story of India is historic,” she said. There were about 1100 companies that >>P10 MARCH 2021

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INDIA <<P9 make PPEs in India while there were none before the pandemic. “This strength should become the foundation for the textile industry’s growth,” she said. The Production Linked Incentive scheme of the Centre highlighted some product lines where India needed to become self-reliant and globally competitive. The seven mega textile parks announced in the Budget should attract investments. However, the industry should also look at how the MSME units could benefit from these opportunities. The Minister urged the industry to look at the challenges and the need for good technology

that was effective for the silk sector and diversification in the jute sector. In his message for the conference, Prime Minister Narendra Modi said the government was taking comprehensive measures for the textile industry. It had implemented several programmes to upscale infrastructure. Contribution of the textile sector was vital for building a self-reliant India. Integrating the industry with technology was a focus area. Indian textile industry should continue to innovate as well as research extensively to tap new markets. The impact of the pandemic showed how the industry could leverage on technology and convert challenges into opportunities.

New Textile Policy is at draft stage: Textile Minister

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n a written reply to the Lok Sabha, Irani said the policy is being formulated by holding widespread consultations with various associations, industry bodies, states and other stakeholders, representing sub-sectors such as cotton, silk, jute, handloom, handicrafts, and powerloom.The new textile policy, which would help in promoting exports and creating employment opportunities, has not been finalised and is at the draft stage at present, Parliament was Informed. In a written reply to the Lok Sabha, Textiles Minister Smriti Irani said the policy is being formulated by holding widespread consultations with various associations, industry bodies, states and other stakeholders, representing sub-sectors such as cotton, silk, jute, handloom, handicrafts, and powerloom. “At present, New Textile Policy has not been finalised and it is at the draft stage,” she said, adding the policy will give thrust on enhancing export performance and creating better employment opportunities. In a separate reply, she said during the current cotton season 2020-21, (from October 2020 to September 30, 2021),” Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) has procured 90.87 lakh bales under the minimum support price

(MSP) operations. “CCI is procuring around 25,000 to 30,000 bales per day in the cotton growing areas wherever the prevailing kapas prices are ruling below MSP,” she added. Replying to another question, the minister said certain Indian textile products are listed in the US Trafficking Victims Protection Re-authorisation Act (TVPRA) child labour/ forced-labour List 2020. She added that steps have been taken through Embassy of India in the US for delisting of such products.

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State textile biz to touch Rs 70kcr in 3-5 yrs: Mitra

est Bengal has set a target to make textile a Rs 70,000crore industry in the next three-five years. Now, the textile industry in the state is worth Rs 35,000 crore. The target was set by state finance and industries minister Amit Mitra at an interactive session called ‘West Bengal Textile & Apparel Meet’. WBIDC chairman Rajiva Sinha said that the state has also decided to set up a task force to implement the target. <<P11

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INDIA <<P Mitra pointed out that the potential of export from West Bengal is much higher than what it is now. “We have to take the export from the state into a new trajectory,” he added. According to Mitra, the textile export from Bengal is 2.7% of the total export from the country. He feels that in the next three-five years, this should go up to 10%. The potential of textile industry in India is pegged at $300 billion by 2024. The finance and industries minister

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explained that the core competence of the state in the areas of textile are hosiery, agro textile, readymade garments, power loom and silk sector. “The readymade garment sector in Metiabruz itself is worth Rs 15,000 crore and it should be Rs 25,000 crore in the next few years.” Elaborating on hosiery, he said that it employs over 2 lakh people and there should be a thrust on export of hosiery to Europe, South East Asia and the US. Commenting on Nungi textile hub, he added that work for

the project has already started and it would attract investment of Rs 440 crore. Later, Sinha said that the first spinning mill in Howrah would come up at Jagdishpur in Howrah. The state government has got a proposal for setting up a poly fiber manufacturing unit in Haldia. The total investment in the project would be Rs 500 crore. He pointed out that this is time for blended yarn and Haldia has raw material for the polyester industry as Haldia Petrochemical (HPL) produces this.

largest producer of cotton, organic cotton comprises around 2 per cent of the total cotton produced. India has the greatest land area used for cotton cultivation in the world. With growing focus on climate risks and social inequality, the global cotton industry offers

huge opportunity to invest for positive impact, said Terence Yong, group head of Western Multinational Corporations, DBS Bank. “Globally, our clients are increasingly mindful of looking for ways to add societal and environmental value through their business >>P12

DBS unveils pilot programme in India on organic cotton

BS Bank has collaborated with Inditex, a fashion retailer which owns brands such as Zara, Pull&Bear and Bershka, to launch an organic cotton procurement financing pilot programme in India with an aim to scale its organic cotton industry. While India is the

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INDIA <<P11 decisions, with many taking the leap to digitalise their supply chains to enhance transparency and traceability of transactions made,” said Yong. “The pilot programme forms an integral part of DBS India’s larger plan to build its priority sector lending business. Priority sector covers under-banked sectors which the Reserve Bank of India (India’s central bank) considers important for the overall development of the economy – including agriculture; small businesses; affordable housing; education and renewable energy,” said Arvind Sharma, head of Priority Sector Lending, DBS Bank. Currently, key challenges for India’s organic cotton industry include a highly fragmented farming community comprising close to 170,000 farmers scattered across mainly nine states, with the majority comprising small-scale cotton growers with limited financial means and knowledge to invest in and implement sustainable farming practices; a disconnect in demand and supply due to a lack of transparency in supply chains with much of the trade remaining manual in nature; and a lack of traceability and integrity as to whether the organic cotton has been farmed and processed in a sustainable manner

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resulting in farmers being unable to transact at a premium. To address these pain-points, DBS through its partnership with Inditex, will leverage the network of local Farmer Producer Organisations (FPOs) to reach more than 2,000 farmers in Inditex’s supply chain to evaluate their financing needs. Under the pilot programme, DBS will then arrange financing for the FPOs to procure organic cotton from the farmers in a timely fashion. This provides farmers greater visibility of their cashflow, enabling them to better plan their business needs and in turn, grow their sustainable farming operations. Transparency is also another benefit of the pilot programme as it eliminates the middlemen in the organic cotton supply chain. The pilot programme combined with other tracking mechanisms enable Inditex and cotton spinners in its ecosystem (which comprise the main buyers of cotton from farmers) to trace the source of the cotton directly and ascertain if it had been farmed sustainably, ensuring farmers secure a higher premium for their organically harvested produce vis-à-vis traditionally farmed non-organic cotton.In terms of environmental impact, traditional farming practices have resulted in soil fertility challenges across India. With easier

and faster access to funds facilitated through the pilot programme, DBS, in partnership with Inditex, is hopeful that this will encourage more farmers to farm organic cotton and to adopt sustainable farming practices.

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UP invites Vietnamese participation in textile sector

he Uttar Pradesh (UP) Government has invited Vietnamese players to invest in the textile sector and offered incentives like easing tax compliance for setting up MSME units in the state, schemes like One District One Product (ODOP) for the organizations that wish to invest in the state. Addressing a virtual event India-Vietnam Trade and Investment Connect, NavneetSehgal, Additional Chief Secretary, MSME of the state said that UP has liberalised the policies and brought many changes in the ecosystem with various potential growth areas for tie-ups. The event was jointly organised by the Indian Industries Association (IIA) and Embassy of Vietnam in India. This virtual meet made entrepreneurs aware of the opportunities and scope of investment for expanding their business in Vietnam which will help them to make their presence in the global market.

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MSME sector emerges as growth engine of economy

he micro, small and medium enterprises (MSME) sector has emerged as the growth engine of the economy and is showing signs of revival after the pandemic-led degrowth in early part of the current fiscal, according to Reserve Bank of India (RBI) governor Shaktikanta Das, who recently said the sector has been rendered vulnerable by the pandemic. “MSME has emerged as the growth engine of the economy with a vast network of about 6.33 crore enterprises contributing 30 per cent of our nominal Gross Domestic Product (GDP) and 48 per cent to exports,” he said while addressing an event on the occasion of 185th Foundation Day celebration of Bombay Chamber of Commerce and Industry. “Two major schemes - Emergency Credit Line Guarantee Scheme

(ECLGS) and Credit Guarantee Scheme for Subordinate Debt (CGSSD) were introduced by the government. These have been duly supported by various monetary and regulatory measures by the RBI in the form of interest rate cuts, higher structural and durable liquidity, moratorium on debt servicing, asset classification, loan restructuring packages and CRR exemptions on varied disbursed to new MSME borrowers,” he said. Among the other sectors that he highlighted as an emerging opportunity included the manufacturing and infrastructure sector. The manufacturing sector, he said, is spearheading growth recovery as many contact intensive services sectors are severely affected by the crisis. “The initiatives of the government under the Aatmanirbhar Bharat Abhiyan and

Union Budget 21-22 towards developing a vibrant manufacturing sector and infrastructure acknowledges the strong linkages they have with the rest of the sectors” he said. Concerted efforts are needed to combat the stress and focus on the revival of the sector, he said. Das called for increasing digital payment and digital penetration across the country. “As digital capabilities improve and connectivity becomes omnipresent technological innovation and technology-driven revolution are poised to quickly and radically change India’s economy,” he said.Das also said that the digital technology has the potential to raise productivity of agriculture, manufacturing and businesses as well as improve the delivery of public services like healthcare and education.

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New lab to test cotton and yarn in southern India

he South India Textile Research Association (SITRA) will set up a laboratory on the Coimbatore premises of the South India Spinners’ Association (SISPA) to test cotton and yarn. N Murugesan, SISPA president of the Spinners’ Association, said its members needed testing facilities and had submitted a project to the union ministry of textiles.

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After the ministry’s permission, SITRA has decided to set up the testing facility. The maintenance cost would be shared by both the organizations. SITRA and SISPA have entered into a five-year agreement for this programme. SITRA would install machinery and depute personnel to test cotton and yarn samples given

by SISPA members, numbering nearly 450. SITRA would also extend its training and awareness programmes to SISPA members, Murugesan said. Since SITRA’s testing results is recognised in other countries as well, this would help SISPA members.

claimed in a press release. During this period, the average online purchase has been recorded at Rs. 11,000 per customer. KVIC takes care of all logistics and infrastructure support like cataloguing, product photoshoot, maintaining online inventory and packaging and transportation of goods to the customers’ doorsteps. This reduces associated costs. Khadi’s online sale, which started with just khadi face masks during

the COVID-19 lockdown, has evolved into a full-fledged e-market platform with nearly 800 products. The product range includes handspun and hand-woven fine fabric like muslin, silk, denim and cotton, unisex Vichar Vastra, trendy Modi kurta and jackets, a signature wrist watch, a variety of honey, herbal and green tea, herbal medicines and soaps, mustard oil, cow dungcow urine soaps and a range of herbal cosmetics.

2019-20. As per the data released by the Ministry of Textiles (MoT), export of Gujarat was US $ 4,901 million, while that of Haryana and Maharashtra were US $ 3,035 mil-

lion and US $ 3,987 million, respectively, during 2019-20. The export figure of Karnataka was US $ 2,386 million, while for Uttar Pradesh, Delhi >>P15

KVIC’s e-market portal promotes indigenous Indian products

he Khadi and Village Industry Commission’s (KVIC) foray into the online marketing segment has resulted in a gross turnover of over Rs. 1.12 crore in just eight months of the launch of its dedicated portal for the same. Launched on July 7 last year, Khadi e-portal has delivered orders to over 10,000 customers out of the 65,000 who visited the portal to date.KVIC has also delivered more than a lakh articles and commodities to these customers, it

Textile and apparel export: Tamil Nadu on top and Punjab at bottom

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amil Nadu is on top compared to all other Indian states as far as textile and apparel export is concerned. The state had export numbers of US $ 6,766 million in

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<<P14 and Punjab figures were US $ 2,853 million, US $ 2,332 million and US $ 1,509 million, respectively. Being at the bottom, it’s worrying for Punjab. In fact, in the previous two years too, the state’s performance has been dismal as compared with the other states. Punjab’s apparel and textile players are of the view that Union and State Government are responsible for state’s poor export numbers. It is pertinent to mention here that Ludhiana and Jalandhar are the main hubs of the state. The state also boasts of textile giants like Vardhman group, Oswal Group and Trident, amongst others. Known for knitted garments, the state produces almost every product in textile value chain be it cotton, fibre, yarn, fabric, garments, home furnishing, etc.

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Info on refund rates for garment exporters

o compensate exporters for the input taxes not reimbursed under existing schemes, Commerce Ministry has announced new scheme, RoDTEP, from January 1, 2021. Concerned about the fate of exporters from the garments and made-ups sector who had to shift to the new incentive scheme, Remission of Duties and Taxes on Export Products (RoDTEP), from January 1 2021, the Textiles Ministry has sought details from the Commerce Ministry on the rates of reimbursement they will be entitled to, a source closely tracking the matter has said. “Exporters of garments and madeups are nervous as they have no idea what reimbursement rates they will get under the new RoDTEP

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scheme and whether they would be comparable to the earlier scheme RoSCTL. The Textiles Ministry therefore wants to find out what the rates are before they are announced so it can have some say in the matter,” the official said. The Commerce & Industry Ministry announced the implementation of the RoDTEP scheme for goods exports from January 1, 2021 to compensate exporters for the input taxes not reimbursed under existing schemes, including embedded levies (such as mandi tax, stamp duty etc.). The popular Merchandise Export from India Scheme (MEIS) scheme was simultaneously withdrawn as it was ruled as a banned export subsidy by a WTO panel since >>P16

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INDIA products,” the source said. “Textile Ministry officials had got in touch with the G K Pillai Committee working out the RoDTEP rates to find out what it had proposed for garments and made-ups. However, they were directed to the Commerce Ministry, which has already received a draft report from the committee with the rates proposed for a number of items. The Textile Ministry has now sought information from the Commerce Ministry which hopefully it will get soon,” the source said. Exporters of garments and madeups (items stitched from any type of cloth, other than a garment such as

bed-sheets, cushion covers, lampshades etc) are especially concerned as they had already shifted from the MEIS to a new scheme called the Rebate of State and Central Taxes and Levies (RoSCTL) scheme in 2019 to mitigate the incidence of State VAT and other State taxes (including embedded taxes) that was seen as being WTO compatible. While they were under the impression that the reimbursement rates that were fixed at around 6 per cent of the value of exports of garments and around 8 per cent for made-ups would remain the same under RoDTEP, now they are not sure, the source said.

lobal textile powerhouse Welspun India has embarked on the next phase of its comprehensive digitization journey, working with digital innovation and technology implementation firm STYCHECO (‘Stitch-Co’) to deploy the BeProduct platform and to revitalize its international design, development, and production processes. Welspun India is part of the Welspun Group – one of India’s fastest-growing conglomerates. With more than 25,000 employees, a presence in more than 50

countries, and a “farm to shelf” model of vertical integration that runs from design to drop shipping. Welspun has a broad product footprint covering bed, bath and flooring categories. In textiles, Welspun produces under license for household names in Asia, Europe, and North America, delivers to major global retailers, and oversees cutting-edge manufacturing worldwide. To manage this complexity, the Welspun Group has embarked on a company-wide digital transformation project that

spans from sales and marketing to sourcing. Welspun’s partnership with STYCHECHO and BeProduct quickly became a vital part of that digital transformation for its textile business, as Chief Marketing and Merchandising Officer Christopher Mooney explains: “Our objective was to serve our customers better by transitioning all of our data, systems, processes, and people – across the entire value chain - to digital. It was therefore essential to us not only to find a new common IT platform, >>P17

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<<P15 the reimbursement rates were not calculated strictly on the basis of input taxes paid. As the outlay for RoDTEP is set to be much lower than the overRs. 50,000 crore allocated for the MEIS, there are expected to be cuts in reimbursement rates. “Exporters do not have any issues with an alternative incentive scheme as long as they are not losing out in terms of the rates. Since the Commerce Ministry is yet to announce the rates for different sectors, the discomfort is growing as exporters do not know on what basis they should price their

Welspun India Reaches Digital Transformation Milestone with STYCHECO and BeProduct

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INDIA <<P16 but to create secure, sustainable ways of working that would allow our design teams in New York to collaborate with their colleagues in India. From that point of view, Welspun’s digital transformation initiative relied on us finding the right technology, but also the right technical and cultural implementation partner. I’m thrilled that we found STYCHECO; with their assistance our digital transformation and growth goals are now in reach.”“As digital transformation strategies go, Welspun’s is one of the boldest we have ever seen,”

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AP Chambers requests for Integrated Mega Textile Park in Andhra Pradesh

n a letter to Union Finance Minister, Nirmala Sitharaman, Andhra Pradesh Chambers of Commerce and Industry Federation (AP Chambers) requested for the allotment of an Integrated Mega Textile Park for Andhra Pradesh. KVS Prakash Rao, President, AP Chambers, pointed out there is very less presence in the crucial weaving, processing and garments segments leading to heavy export of yarn that results in value migration from our state to other destinations. This also mandates the import of fabric for the apparel and garment units that are located in the state, leading to an increase in

the cost of raw material due to logistics and loss of productivity. He said that the chambers highlighted the strengths of the state in the textile sector including the presence of a large number of spinning mills, availability of raw material and skilled manpower. As per current estimates, there are about 150 spinning mills in Andhra Pradesh, with a capacity of approximately 4 million spindles producing 2 million kgs of cotton yarn per day. They explained that there are about 18,000 power looms of which about 9,000 are shuttle looms and 1300 high-speed air jet looms. >>P18 Best in class garment and fashion accessories, Distributors assured quality products, wide selection to choose from, reliable service, pan India timely delivery, bespoke, competitive prices, value for money-

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INDIA >>17 The state also has well-developed ginning and spinning segments. They stated that West Godavari, Krishna, Guntur, Prakasam and Chittoor districts have many textile-based industries such as modern textile weaving, cloth weaving, hosiery and spinning mills. Andhra Pradesh is ranked as one of the top five textile and clothing manufacturing states by the department of industrial policy and promotion which has released the top textile and clothing manufacturing Indian states based on ease of doing business. However, the state

has not achieved much progress in terms of the valueadded textile activities such as weaving units, knitting units, preparatory units, processing units, technical textiles, integrated units, which have a greater potential not only in terms of promoting value addition but also in creating large scale employment. Rao said, the state needs an integrated mega textile park in order to convert the major portion of the yarn produced in the state into fabric and garments within the state, to promote the state as a destination for global textile majors.

Town of export excellence tag to Noida for apparel goods

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he central government has given the tag of ‘town of export excellence’ to Noida for apparel products, a move that will help promotion of outbound shipments. The recognition entitles the common service providers in the area to avail the Export Promotion Capital Goods (EPCG) scheme, which in turn would enable them to provide advanced technologies and services to the 700 existing apparel industries in Noida. “The town of Noida in Uttar Pradesh has been notified as a town of export excellence for apparel products,” the Directorate General of Foreign Trade (DGFT) said in a notification. Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) Chairman A Sakthivel said the development would help set up modern facilities for common use by exporters in the

region. He said common service providers are critical for the apparel industry as they help in reducing the cost of technology by providing common services like specialised knitting, dyeing and embroidery, which require high end machines. “We have also requested for including apparel clusters like Faridabad, Delhi and Erode in the list of towns of export excellence. Faridabad and Delhi have turnovers of Rs 5,880 crore and Rs 5,894 crore respectively, way more than the requirement of Rs 750 crore turnover for a town to get the tag,” Sakthivel said. There are 38 other towns of export excellence in the country including Tirupur (hosiery), Madurai (handlooms), Jodhpur (handicraft), Dewas (pharmaceuticals) and Bhilwara (textiles).

Huge export opportunities for apparel players in Colombia

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uge business opportunities are present in Colombia for apparel exporters particularly in fashion segment and the domestic industry should explore the areas to boost shipments, AEPC said. The Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) said it has organised ‘India-Colombia Synergies in Apparel and Textiles’, a virtual meeting platform to explore export opportunities

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in the South American nation. Quoting Indian ambassador to Colombia Sanjiv Ranjan, it said there is a huge potential for Indian apparel exporters in Colombia, particularly in its fashion industry with domestic sales of about USD 7 billion. “India’s apparel exports to Colombia is just 3 per cent of its global imports. This does >>P19

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US sportswear giant Under Armour to appoint local distributor for India operations

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S sportswear giant Under Armour is planning to appoint a local distributor to manage its India operations, instead of continuing with a fully owned subsidiary in the country, two people familiar with the matter said.The development comes barely two years after the Baltimore-based company setting up its fully owned unit in India.One of the people said the company is considering handing over the local distribution rights to a team led by Tushar Goculdas, the current

<<P18 not really reflect the strength of what our sector stands for. We have a huge untapped potential in this sector which requires to be explored and utilised by our exporters,” he said.Ranjan said that apparel exporters should focus on Colombia’s fashion industry that accounts for 9.4 per cent of the country’s industrial GDP and employs about 600,000 people. AEPC Chairman A Sakthivel informed the participating Colombian brands and buyers that the council through its virtual platform will work as a bridge between the Indian apparel exporters and Colombian apparel importers.

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managing director of Under Armour India. Goculdas and Under Armour did not respond to an email seeking comment. Under Armour made its India debut with an exclusive online deal with Amazon in 2017. Subsequently, in 2019, the world’s third largest sportswear company after Nike and Adidas set up its wholly owned India cash-and-carry business - where the country allows 100% overseas ownership. The company also appointed several local franchisees to operate Under Armour-branded outlets.Franchisees currently operate 20 Under Armour outlets in the National Capital Region, Bengaluru, Chennai, Ahmedabad, Hyderabad, Lucknow and Chandigarh, among other cities. Two US denim labels, Lee and Wrangler, had earlier this year decided to shut their fully owned India subsidiary. They have appointed Bengaluru-based omni-channel enabler Ace Turtle as the local distributor and master franchisee for the country. Ace Turtle is now planning to transform the Lee and Wrangler India businesses into omni-channel entities to drive growth and aims to double its sales here >>P20

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INDIA <<P19 over the next two years by extensively focusing on online channels.Companies are taking such steps as they are grappling with Covid-induced issues in their home markets, analysts said. Brands are exiting their subsidiaries in India to save money and to focus on or to rebuild in their bread-and-butter home markets, they said.The pandemic has also led to a change of India partnerships for a host of global brands including Gap

Inc, New Balance, Promod and Guess among other international labels.Last year, blaming the pandemic, Gap and its India franchisee, Arvind Fashions, decided to call their alliance off, six years after the Bengalurubased company signed a master franchisee for India. Boston-based New Balance had late last year snapped its franchisee arrangement with Mumbai-based Major Brands, to sign up Gaurik Lifestyle as the new partner to run New Balance-branded physical outlets in India.

Knitwear exporters want rollback of amendment on import of accessories

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he Tirupur Exporters’ Association (TEA) requested Union Finance Minister Nirmala Sitharaman to reconsider the amendment making it mandatory for units importing accessories to execute a bond for waiver of Customs duty. In a representation, TEA president Raja M Shanmugham said items like tags, labels, sticker, belt, button or hanger, printed bags were being imported without payment of duty if the importer produced the member certificate from Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC). As per the amendment proposed in the union budget, importing units have to execute a

bond with Customs for import without payment of duty, he said. Accordingly, several products will attract Customs duty with effect from April 1, resulting in erosion of competitiveness, he contended, adding the Finance Minister should reconsider the amendment and restore the status quo. He also sought remission of duties and taxes on exported products (RoDTEP) scheme rates with additional benefits for a shorter duration and to extend the interest equalisation scheme on pre and post shipment Rupee export credit for another three years.

Tirupur to host CEO Summit along with DyeChem World and KnitProcess exhibition

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MOU has been signed by the AIC NIFT TEA incubation center for textiles and apparel, Textile Excellence, and Tiruppur’s NIFT-TEA faculty of knitwear trend for collectively organizing a dual exhibition in Tiruppur of DyeChem World and KnitProcess from October 22 to 24, 2021. SDC has joined as a co-organizer and the event may be held at NIFT-TEA compound SIDCO, Tiruppur. Being the first of its kind show in South India, the entire range of textile dyes, finishes, technologies, and

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chemicals will be covered by DyeChem World. For interaction and knowledge sharing between the dyes and chemicals and the textile industry, a platform will be created by DyeChem. While KnitProcess will cover the entire value chain of knitwear processing technologies till garmenting and will assist the business to discover and undertake the newest improvements within the knitting and post-processing sector. The CEO Summit will be the highlight of the events which will be a gathering of >>P21


INDIA

<<P20 worldwide heads from the textile and apparel, fashion brands, and retail industries. Whereas the first intention of the meet is to have extremely interactive and candid networking for enterprises, it could even have severe deliberations on core issues of sourcing, sustainable practices, and adapting it to the supply chain. In a Textile Excellence press launch, Raja Shanmugham, president of the Tiruppur Exporter’s Affiliation said that the entrepreneurs are putting money into enhancing capability and upgrading applied sciences regularly in Tiruppur which is India’s largest knitwear cluster. Because of the Prime Minister’s name for Atmanirbhar Bharat and rising alternatives with additional investments, their business is committed to taking this cluster ahead. Hence to attain the targets,

they would like worldwide occasions to happen to provide chain interactions. Yogesh Gaikwad, director, SDC UK, and India said that for an occasion of this stature, Tiruppur is the best suitable venue. In clear manufacturing, Tiruppur has at all times been on the forefront and for the remainder of the business to comply with has built the stream in the direction of sustainable manufacturing. For product, knowhow, and repair suppliers, DyeChem World and KnitProcess would be a great platform. Around 60% of India’s knitting, processing, and apparel capacity is accounted for by Tirupur, the knitwear capital of India. Because of its resilience, it is also leading the path in re-starting the textile and apparel business through the pandemic.

Birla Cellulose named as winner for Golden Peacock Global Award for Sustainability 2020

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he flagship company of the Aditya Birla Group and part of Grasim Industries Limited, Birla Cellulose has won the Golden Peacock Global Award for Sustainability 2020. This award is given for achievements, global leadership and continuous improvements in sustainability in the international textile and apparel sector. This award was started in 1991by the Institute of Directors (IOD) and is renowned globally for corporate excellence. It is given annually and acknowledges the achievements and performance of well-performing organizations. The award helps to catalyze the performance and tells about the reputation >>P22

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INDIA <,P21 of the company in terms of depth, transparency, and impartiality of the assessment process. The independent assessors and finally by a grand jury accessed the applications at 3 levels. This year the chairperson of the Golden Peacock Awards jury was former Chief Justice of India, former Chairman, National Human Rights Commission of India, and National Commission for Constitution of India Reforms and Honourable Justice M. N. Venkatachaliah. Managing Director, Grasim Industries and Business Director, Birla Cellulose, Aditya Birla Group, Mr. Dilip Gaur said that in building sustainable businesses being capable of consistently delivering the best performance on the environmental level, the Golden Peacock Global Award is a testament to their vision. In the virtual award ceremony, he said that the core of their business strategy is sustainability. Their vision is to become the global leader in sustainable business practices among the global leaders in the man-made cellulosic fiber (MMCF) industry. To recycle and conserve natural resources, their sites use environmentally efficient technologies and closedloop processes. He also said that in the country where they operate, they are going beyond regulatory norms and at all the fiber sites in Birla Cellulose, the most stringent EU BAT environmental norms are applied. Chief Executive Officer and Director, Institute of Directors, Mr. Manoj K. Raut said that in the present time, the presence of Grasim Industries Limited, Birla Cellulose, Pulp & Fibre Business is in many countries. MMCF being their main product, they are also following sustainable forestry initiatives like FSC®, PEFCTM and SFI®. Among this industry, these initiatives are very unique. From raw material sourcing to the distribution of the final product, the entire manufacturing process has been revamped. This has been done in accordance

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with the principles of sustainability and has set a certain benchmark. In sustainable sourcing practices, Birla Cellulose leads the industry. For sustainable forestry practices and the development of next-generation solutions for alternative feedstock, it also has been ranked number 1 by the Canopy’s Hot Button Report 2020. The lowest water consumption in viscose fiber production is also led by Birla Cellulose. By late 2021, the Nagda site is being built up to become the first MMCF site in the world to achieve a zero liquid discharge (ZLD) site. The new generation of innovative products which are manufactured by Birla Cellulose like Birla Excel (lyocell), Livaeco, Birla Spunshades and Liva Reviva are also designed with sustainable features. GreenTrackTM, a blockchain-based traceability tool by Birla Cellulose has also become the most used tool for establishing traceability of garments from forest to fashion.

Oshadi helps cotton farmers to switch to regenerative, organic farming in south India

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n Erode, the textile hub of south India, a sustainable “seed to closet” initiative has been launched by the women’s wear brand named Oshadi. This brand was launched in 2016, by a 26-year-old entrepreneur, Nishanth Chopra who grew up in Erode. The main force behind the launch of this brand was the treatment of the apparel industry towards its artisans and the environment. To revalue and re-exam the entire value of the apparel industry Nishanth worked with a cooperative of handloom weavers. There he found that less than half of the amount paid for the fabric is given to the weavers. In order to pay the weavers a fair wage for their hard work, he started to work with the weavers directly. He invested in the looms of the exceptional artisans and supported them financially. After this as a part of the next step, he asked the dyers to switch to natural dyes. In order to buy back the dyed yarns at a premium price, he sourced the natural dyes himself and then gave them to the dyers. In this way, in order to move back to the traditional farming practices of India, Oshadi, helps in working from the source of the cotton itself. They switched to regenerative, organic farming practices from monocropping practices.


INDIA At Kaanchi Kovil, there is a farm of Nishanth’s partner which grows cotton which is then woven in Erode. In order to enrich the soil, castor is planted at the borders; and green grams and urad dal are planted between cotton plants. Sivashankar, the farm director said that usually, castor leaves are attacked by the pest first, hence they use it as their pest warning system and use organic pesticides to get rid of them. To switch to organic methods, Oshadi is giving training to the farmers; Tamil Selvi, one among them said that to keep off the mealy-bugs and other pests, the 3G formula of ginger, garlic and green chili extracts are very effective. Even the inter-cropping using spicy or bitter crops like erukku (crown flower in English), neem or adhatoda put off the livestock from grazing the cotton crop of the field. Just like Oshadi, in 2014 an entrepreneur Ananthoo also got inspired to set up Tula- an organic cotton clothing brand. He was into the organic food business across South India but the increasing rate of suicide among the cotton farmers influenced him to set up a clothing brand. Tula also supports the farmers to adopt organic cotton cultivation practices. Ananthoo said that Organic farming also helps them to adapt to the changing climatic conditions i.e. surviving both

droughts and unseasonal rains. He also said that they have created nearly 100 livelihoods in their sustainable value chain i.e. from seeds to fabric.

PLI scheme to make major impact on MSMEs

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he Prime Minister Narendra Modi has said that production linked incentive (PLI) scheme would make a major impact to the country’s Micro Small and Medium Enterprises (MSMEs) ecosystem by creating the anchor units in every sector that will need a new supplier base across the entire value chain. He said this while addressing on PLIs scheme organised by the Department of Industry and International Trade and Niti Aayog through a webinar. The Prime Minister urged the industry to join and take advantage of the PLI scheme and added that the focus of the industry should be on creating ‘Best Quality Goods’ for the country and the world. He also urged the industry to innovate according to the needs of the fast changing world, increase our participation in R&D, upgrading the manpower skills and use of new technology. >>P24

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INDIA <<P23 The Prime Minister highlighted that in this year’s budget, a provision of about Rs 2 lakh crore has been made for schemes related to the PLI scheme and an average of five per cent of production is given as incentive. This means that PLI schemes will lead to production worth 520 billion dollars in India in the next five years. ‘’It is also estimated that sectors for which the PLI scheme has been created will witness doubling of the workforce,’’ he added. He said recently approved PLI schemes in IT hardware and Telecom equipment manufacturing will lead to tremendous increase in production and domestic value addition. IT hardware is estimated to achieve 3 trillion rupees worth production in 4 years and domestic value addition is expected to rise from current 5-10 percent to 20-25 percent in 5 years. Similarly telecom equipment

manufacturing will witness an increase of about 2.5 lakh crore rupees in 5 years. ‘’We should be in a position to export worth 2 lakh crore from this, said the Prime Minister,’’ he said. In the Pharma sector, the Prime Minister expect more than 15 thousand crore rupees investment in next 5-6 years under PLI leading to 3 lakh crore in pharma sale and export increase worth 2 lakh crore The Prime Minister asserted that the way India is serving humanity today, India has become a big brand all over the world. India’s credibility and India’s identity is constantly reaching new heights. “The brand of India is continuously reaching new heights. The trust has increased in our medicines, our medical professionals and our medical equipment across the world,” Modi said. And, to honor this trust, he urged the pharma sector to work on chalking out long-term strategy to take advantage of this.

He said the PLI scheme was launched last year to incentivise manufacturing of mobile phones and electronic components in India. Even during the pandemic, the sector manufactured goods worth Rs 35,000 crore last year, saw a fresh investment of about Rs 1,300 crore and created thousands of new jobs in this sector. The Prime Minister said 13 sectors have been brought under Production Linked Incentives for the first time. PLI benefits the entire ecosystem associated with the sector. With PLI in Auto and Pharma, there will be very less foreign dependence related to auto parts, medical equipment and raw materials of medicines. He added that the energy sector will be modernised in the country with the help of Advanced Cell Batteries, Solar PV modules and Specialty Steel. Similarly, the PLI for the textile and food processing sector will benefit the entire agriculture sector.

that things are getting more back to normal,” Moody’’s Investors Service associate managing director (sovereign risk) Gene Fang said in an online conference organised by Moody’s and its India affiliate ICRA on India Credit Outlook 2021. Fang said reform implementation remains a challenge in India, and expressed uncertainty over revenue generation through CPSE privatisation announced in the Budget saying such “one-off monetisation policies are less durable in terms of supporting fiscal health for long term,” . Stating that recession in India has ended, ICRA principal eonomist Aditi Nayar said Indian economy could clock a 0.3 per cent growth in the October-December quarter of the current fiscal.Indian economy

contracted for two consecutive quarters of June and September this fiscal, thereby entering into recession. Contraction was 23.9 per cent and 7.5 per cent respectively.ICRA expects Indian economy to contract 7 per cent in current fiscal and growth to rebound to 10.5 per cent in the next fiscal beginning April 1.Nayar said there could be upside to growth in FY22 if the government’s capital expenditure increases, budget announcements are implemented and vaccination drives are carried out. Fang said Moody’s has some concern about policy implementation going forward and the degree to which the government can execute on some of the growth supportive measures, like capex spending, is going to have an impact on growth forecast.

Moody’s sees 7% contraction in India this fiscal, 13.7% growth in next

I

ndia’s economy is expected to witness a growth of 13.7 per cent in fiscal 2021-22, registering a strong rebound from a 7 per cent contraction this fiscal on the back of normalisation of activity and growing confidence in the market with the rollout of COVID-19 vaccine, according to Moody’s Investors Service, which had in November last year projected a 10.6 per cent contraction in this fiscal. The economy would return to growth of 10.8 per cent in fiscal 2021-22, the rating agency had predicted last year.“For the year following that we expect a rebound of 13.7 per cent that reflects largely normalisation of activity, a pronounced base effect. Recovery of activity reinforced by some degree of rollout of vaccine, and growing confidence in market 24

MARCH 2021


INDIA

Haryana MSMEs to challenge new job quota in High Court

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he Haryana Government recently approved a bill which reserved 75 per cent of the private sector jobs with gross salary upto Rs 50,000 per month for the people of the state is facing backlash from the Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises (MSMEs) in the state as they are gearing up to approach High Court on the same. Haryana Governor, Satyadeo Narain Arya gave assent to the Haryana State Employment of Local Candidates Bill, 2020. “The Haryana Governor gave his assent to the Bill entailing 75 per cent reservation in the private sector to job seekers from the state. The government will notify it soon,” the CM said. Manesar Industries Welfare Association (MIWA) Vice President,

Faridabad IMT Industries Association (FIMTIA), General Secretary, Chander Shekhar Goel too slammed the Haryana government and said that if every state thinks alike and starts employing their people then where will be one country one nation? ‘’With corruption rife especially at lower level, the new law may provide another tool in the hands of officials to harass industry’’, he added.Geol further went on saying that after this no new factories will be set up in the state with such reservations. ‘’We need skilled people and we also suggested Haryana Deputy Chief Minister Dushyant Chautala to work on skill development of the locals which will help them to get jobs,’’ he concluded.

Manmohan Gaind expressed its dissatisfaction and said that such steps will take us back in terms of growth be it a growth of industries, any commercial institution or an enterprise. ‘’Haryana state will suffer and in the long-term Haryana will start losing opportunities to other states because this is a regressive step which is going to affect every industry,’’ he said. Gaind asserted that the law is designed in such a way that one person in the district has all the authority to grant you permission or not to grant you permission. ‘’This is a black bill for industry and commercial enterprises and we are going to approach the high court against this bill,’’ MIWA, Vice President said.

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Last date for filing annual GST return for FY 20 extended to 31st March 2021

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he Finance ministry has extended the last date for filing annual goods and service tax (GST) return for the financial year 2019-20 till 31st March. The due date for furnishing of the Annual returns (GSTR-9 and GSTR9C) specified under section 44 of the CGST Act read with rule 80 of the CGST rules for the financial year

T

2019-20 was earlier extended from 31.12.2020 to 28.02.2021, the ministry of finance said in a statement. In view of the difficulties expressed by the taxpayers in meeting this time limit, the government has decided to further extend the due date for furnishing of GSTR-9 and GSTR-9C for the financial year

2019-20 to 31.03.2021 with the approval of the Election Commission of India. “This press note is being issued to keep taxpayers informed so that they may plan their return filing accordingly. Suitable notification to give effect to this decision is being issued” the finance ministry added.

projects operating in 48 African countries with 75 projects worth 13 billion dollars,’’ he said. “This is the size of our commitment to the African Continent”, Chhabra added.He further stated that many of the iconic projects in Africa, like the Parliament in the Gambia, the Presidential Palace of Ghana, are constructed by Indian companies. “One-third of the power supply in Sudan and one-fourth of the power supply in Uganda comes from Indian power plants set up by Indian lines of credit,” said Chhabra. Elaborating on strengthening the manufacturing capabilities in Africa he said that the first cement plant in Djibouti, the first milk processing

plant in Mauritania and the first sugar plant in Ghana are the first steps towards developing a stronger partnership in the manufacturing sector by plants set up by Indian lines of credit. “We want to be forward-looking and forward-thinking to see how the partner countries can benefit from our collaborations,” said the MEA Secretary. He stressed the fact that India has provided medical assistance to over 25 African countries during the pandemic with the Vande Bharat flights carrying African patients to India even during the lockdown. “Five air transport bubble arrangements are already in operation in Nigeria, Kenya, Ethiopia, Tanzania and Uganda to maintain air connectivity so that those activities keep continuing,” he said.“Our Vaccine supplies have gone out to maximum African countries and many more are committed,” he said. He also said that India is working with the partners and the supply of vaccines to other African countries will be rolled out shortly. “We have kept our resources open and are waiting >>P27

CFTA offers immense potential for Indian companies to invest in Africa

he Continental Free Trade Area (CFTA) signals a great opportunity for Indian businesses to partner with African counterparts to deepen their integration and accelerate their development, said Rahul Chhabra, Secretary-Economic Relations, Ministry of External Affairs. Addressing the Inaugural programme of Namaskar Africa organized by FICCI, he said that Indian companies must take advantage of the enormous change that is taking place in Africa. “We do not have a donor-recipient relationship with Africa but consider our partner countries as development partners. Out of 54 African countries we have Indian

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<<P26 for approval from partner countries for a seamless movement of vaccine supplies,” he said. HE Dr Daniel Peter Othol, The Dean of the African Group of Heads of Missions in India & Ambassador of South Sudan said the relationship between India and Africa must be augmented to the level that will benefit Africa. He further said that the African economy has melted due to the pandemic and Africa is looking at the Indian subcontinent for assistance. “We want India to mechanize the African agriculture, to build our social and physical infrastructure and the health and educational needs especially during the era of COVID-19. There is an urgent need to boost the immunity of the population of Africa, therefore Africa is looking at India for vaccines,” he said.

FDI inflows in India top $ 67 Bn during Covid quarters April to December 2020

I

ndia has attracted a total Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) inflow of 67.54 billion dollars during April to December 2020, said a data shared by the Ministry of Commerce & Industry. It is the highest ever for the first ninth months of a financial year and 22 per cent higher as compared to the first ninth months of 2019-20 (55.14 billion dollars), the data added. FDI equity inflow grew by 40 per cent in the first 9 months of F.Y. 2020-21 to 51.47 billion dollars compared to 36.77 billion dollars year ago period. ‘’FDI inflow increased by 37 per cent in 3rd Quarter of 2020-21 to 26.16 billion dollars compared to 19.09

billion dollars in 3rd quarter of 2019-20. FDI inflow also showed positive growth of 24 per cent in the month of December, 2020 to 9.22 billion dollars compared to 7.46 billion dollars in December, 2019,’’ the data said. FDI is a major driver of economic growth and an important source of non-debt finance for the economic development of India. It has been the endeavour of the Government to put in place an enabling and investor friendly FDI policy, the Commerce Ministry said. The intent all this while has been to make the FDI policy more investor friendly and remove the policy bottlenecks that have been hindering >>P28

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Lycra to strengthen stretch lines for ‘House of Brands’

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he Lycra Company and House of Brands including private labels of Myntra and Flipkart Fashion, have announced their partnership for developing new stretch lines to help deliver durability & improved quality to their garment offerings. The new stretch lines will be used for brands like Roadster, HRX, House of Pataudi, Dressberry, Metronaut, Divastri, Adrenex. “Lycra fibre is a world-renowned fibre brand and offers a benchmark in quality and innovation in the realm of fashion when used as an ingredient in fabric. Our collaboration with the US-based innovator for the global apparel industry will redefine and enhance our offering, especially in categories like denim, activewear, athleisure, and innerwear,” said Neetu Jotwani, vice president sourcing, House of Brands, Flipkart Group. As part of this partnership, The Lycra Company will share marketing and technical insights with House of Brands to develop collections with cutting edge fibre and fabric technology innovations, focused on meeting the consumer’s satisfaction gaps. An online jointmarketing campaign will be launched in 2021, enabling House of Brands to leverage the equity of the Lycra <<P27 the investment inflows into the country. The steps taken in this direction during the last six and a half years have borne fruit, as is evident from the ever-increasing volumes of FDI inflows being received into the country, it added. Measures taken by the Government on the fronts of FDI policy reforms, investment facilitation and ease of doing business have resulted in increased FDI inflows into the country. The following trends in India’s Foreign Direct Investment are an endorsement of its status as a preferred investment destination amongst global investors.

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fibre brand to appeal to the quality conscious customers. Millions of Myntra and Flipkart Fashion customers across the country will have the chance to experience the fit solution that Lycra fibre brings to their shopping. The product range will cover denim and athleisure styles in the first launch. “The collaboration with House of Brands is a significant milestone to broaden consumer accessibility to garments with a fit solution by Lycra fibre. Our goal is to continuously deliver innovative garment solutions to consumers via strong retail collaborators, ultimately enhancing consumer’s preference and affinity to the Lycra brand,” said Fabrizio Maggi, South Asia commercial director of The Lycra Company. The Lycra Company a global leader in developing innovative fibre and technology solutions for the apparel industry. Headquartered in Wilmington, Delaware, The Lycra Company is recognised worldwide for its innovative products, technical expertise, and unmatched marketing support. The Lycra Company owns leading consumer and trade brands: Lycra, Lycra HyFit, Lycra T400, Coolmax, Thermolite, Supplex and Tactel. House of Brands (HOB) brings together Flipkart Fashion Originals (FFO) and Myntra Fashion Brands (MFB) while focusing on building a curated selection, including both international and domestic product offerings. It houses indigenously developed fashion brands and aspirational international fashion brands (license model) that cater to consumers across genders, product categories and usage occasions with an aspiration to become the largest fashion house in India. The Flipkart Group is one of India’s leading digital commerce entities and includes group companies Flipkart, Myntra, and Flipkart Wholesale. Started in 2007, Flipkart has enabled >>P29

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INDIA <<P28 millions of consumers, sellers, merchants, and small businesses to be a part of India’s e-commerce revolution, with a registered customer base of over 300 million, offering over 150 million products across 80+ categories. The Lycra Company and House of Brands including private labels of Myntra and Flipkart Fashion, have announced their partnership for developing new stretch lines to help deliver durability & improved quality to their garment offerings. The new stretch lines will be used for brands like Roadster, HRX, House of Pataudi, Dressberry, Metronaut, Divastri, Adrenex. “Lycra fibre is a world-renowned fibre brand and offers a benchmark in quality and innovation in the realm of fashion when used as an ingredient in fabric. Our collaboration with the US-based

innovator for the global apparel industry will redefine and enhance our offering, especially in categories like denim, activewear, athleisure, and innerwear,” said Neetu Jotwani, vice president sourcing, House of Brands, Flipkart Group. As part of this partnership, The Lycra Company will share marketing and technical insights with House of Brands to develop collections with cutting edge fibre and fabric technology innovations, focused on meeting the consumer’s satisfaction gaps. An online joint-marketing campaign will be launched in 2021, enabling House of Brands to leverage the equity of the Lycra fibre brand to appeal to the quality conscious customers. Millions of Myntra and Flipkart Fashion customers across the country will have the chance to experience the fit solution that Lycra fibre brings to their shopping. The product range

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will cover denim and athleisure styles in the first launch. “The collaboration with House of Brands is a significant milestone to broaden consumer accessibility to garments with a fit solution by Lycra fibre. Our goal is to continuously deliver innovative garment solutions to consumers via strong retail collaborators, ultimately enhancing consumer’s preference and affinity to the Lycra brand,” said Fabrizio Maggi, South Asia commercial director of The Lycra Company. The Lycra Company a global leader in developing innovative fibre and technology solutions for the apparel industry. Headquartered in Wilmington, Delaware, The Lycra Company is recognised worldwide for its innovative products, technical expertise, and unmatched marketing support. The Lycra Company owns leading consumer and trade brands: >>P30

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INDIA <<P29 Lycra, Lycra HyFit, Lycra T400, Coolmax, Thermolite, Supplex and Tactel. House of Brands (HOB) brings together Flipkart Fashion Originals (FFO) and Myntra Fashion Brands (MFB) while focusing on building a curated selection, including both international and domestic product

offerings. It houses indigenously developed fashion brands and aspirational international fashion brands (license model) that cater to consumers across genders, product categories and usage occasions with an aspiration to become the largest fashion house in India. The Flipkart Group is one of India’s leading digital commerce entities

and includes group companies Flipkart, Myntra, and Flipkart Wholesale. Started in 2007, Flipkart has enabled millions of consumers, sellers, merchants, and small businesses to be a part of India’s e-commerce revolution, with a registered customer base of over 300 million, offering over 150 million products across 80+ categories.

for growth. The program provides MSMEs with specific training to leverage modern commerce and get ready for opportunities in Flipkart’s eCommerce marketplace, the supply chain of Flipkart Wholesale and Walmart’s global sourcing operations, as well as the open marketplace, Walmart said in a press release. The Vriddhi e-Institute in Agra will partner with MSMEs from the state through interactive learning and

advanced competency-based training, with personalised feedback and advice. The curriculum is tailored for the unique challenges and opportunities of local businesses and is offered in Hindi and English. In particular, the e-Institute will focus on empowering skilled artisans and entrepreneurs to expand markets for Agra’s prominent footwear manufacturing and stone carving sectors.

However, we do caution that the pace of underlying growth in the Indian economy remains subdued, and do not foresee a sharp ramp up in the pace of GDP [gross domestic product] expansion in Q4 FY2021,” the report said.As many as nine of the 15 high frequency indicators recorded weakening of their year-on year (YoY) performance in January relative to December 2020. In contrast, six indicators witnessed an improved YoY performance. Amongst these, the most meaningful appear to be the substantial improvement in growth of non-oil exports to 11.5 per cent in January from 5.6 per cent in December last. Based on the available data, we

project the growth in the index of industrial production (IIP) to remain subdued at 0.5-2.0 per cent in January (+1.0 per cent in December 2020). We expect the technical recession in the Indian economy to have ended with a mild 0.7 per cent GDP growth in real terms in the third quarter of this fiscal.

Walmart plans to triple exports from India to $10 bn annually

W

almart recently launched a new Vriddhi e-Institute in Agra to provide small businesses in Uttar Pradesh access to skills and competencies to grow in a post-pandemic environment through online and offline channels like Flipkart’s marketplace and Walmart’s international supply chain. With this, Walmart is expanding its Vriddhi Supplier Development Programme towards empowering 50,000 micro, small and medium enterprises (MSMEs) across India

India’s economic recovery enters consolidation phase

T

he Indian economic recovery appears to have entered a consolidation phase in January, with a varied performance across the early economic indicators, according to ICRA’s January review of the Indian economy. A majority of these displayed a loss of growth momentum in the month relative to December 2020, partly because of an unfavourable base effect, supply side issues and price hikes, marking a contrast to the improvement in sentiment brought on by the rollout of the COVID-19 vaccines. “We do not construe the dip in volume performance in January 2021 as a sign of alarm regarding the sustainability of the growth recovery. 30

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ITMA 2023 Stand Space Application Opened from 3 March

tand space application for ITMA 2023 has been opened on 3 March. The world’s largest textile and garment technology exhibition, ITMA will be held at Fiera Milano Rho, Milan, from 8 to 14 June 2023. Following its successful showcase in Barcelona in 2019, interest in the upcoming exhibition remains high despite the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic. According to its show owner CEMATEX, and organiser ITMA Services, many enquiries have been received from interested participants since last year. Charles Beauduin, Chairman of ITMA Services, explained: “The pandemic has changed the world in many unprecedented ways. We are now moving into a new world where the digital space has become more commonplace. At the same time, it has underscored the importance of face-to-face meetings, which all of us will appreciate more than ever once it becomes possible again. “Many textile technology builders are using these couple of years to consolidate their business, and to advance their research and development efforts to stay competitive. As such, by the time ITMA 2023 is held, they will be ready to showcase their latest innovations in Milan.” Mr Ernesto Maurer, President of CEMATEX, added: “In the meantime, we are also looking at various ways to help textile and garment industry players maximise their participation at ITMA 2023. Exhibitors will be able to explore additional avenues to promote their latest machinery and solutions through our new digital platform, which will help to connect exhibitors and visitors before their face-to-face meetings at ITMA 2023, and after the exhibition. We have also expanded and refined our

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product index to reflect opportunities in the marketplace.” ITMA 2023 will feature 20 chapters. A new chapter on machinery for textile reinforcement structures for composites, auxiliary machinery and accessories, has been created to address the needs of buyers in this growing sector. Mr Beauduin explained, “ITMA 2023 features solutions for an entire textile and garment manufacturing value chain. The composite industry is bursting with opportunities. While composite solutions have been showcased at past ITMA editions, we are now making it easier for buyers to source these technologies by clustering them in one sector.” Among the first to applaud this move is Peter D. Dornier, Chairman of the Board of Management, said: “It’s great to learn that technology for textile composites which have been showcased at ITMA for many years, has now been established as a separate product chapter to give the sector more visibility. At the last exhibition in Barcelona, we successfully launched our P2 rapier weaving machine. The machine was very well received by visitors from various industry sectors, ranging from clothing, home and technical textiles, to composite material manufacturing.” ITMA will feature machinery for textile reinforcement structures for composites, as well as auxiliary machinery and accessories. • Machines for the production and treatment of special fibres, such as carbon, glass and aramid fibres • Filament winding machines • Fibre spreading machines • Tape laying machines, fibre placement lines • Coating and impregnation machines >>P30 High Speed Nylon Zipper Spiraling Machine

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reinforcement structures Further reflecting current industry demands and needs, the ITMA 2023 product index has been updated to feature equipment for textile recycling, such as textile sorting systems and chemical recycling technology. The chapter on software and automation for design, data

monitoring, processing and integrated production has been expanded to include digital platforms for textile and clothing production, procurement of textile materials and B2C platforms for retail. There is also a bigger range of solutions for automation of production processes, and tracking and tracing of products.

very heart of this market. Missing the show in June is simply not an option for the Symatex members, and we are extremely confident that our presence will have a positive impact in terms of realizing our ambitious commercial goals for 2021!” Stijn Pauwels, Secretary General of Symatex agrees: “Our Belgian companies are eager to resume their international marketing and sales efforts. The positive economic growth is excellent news for the industry, recovery will take some time but we fully embrace opportunities like ITMA ASIA + CITME 2020 to accelerate the commercial relaunch. Our Belgian exhibitors are certainly gearing up for a strong showcase in Shanghai!” As offering the most performing technology is the key to customer success, the Belgian machinery industry is strongly R&D driven, and is one of the nation’s biggest

investor in R&D. It invests 8% of its added value in R&D and employs over 11% of the total Belgian manufacturing industry research head count. The industry accelerated its research efforts on energy efficiency in the last decade and achieved an average energy consumption reduction for its products of 18%. The long term strategy directs the Belgian machinery industry towards continuous strategic and open innovation to accelerate its product development pace and to provide its customers with cutting edge technology. Symatex, managed by Agoria (the Belgian federation of the technology industry), is active in both the economic and technical areas to support its members. The ITMA ASIA + CITME 2020 visitors will have the privileged opportunity to find out about the latest innovations.

TextileIndustry gears up for strong showcase atITMA ASIA + CITME 2020

TMA ASIA + CITME 2020 will take place from 12 to 16 June 2021 at the National Exhibition and Convention Centre (NECC) in Shanghai. It will be held over 6 halls with a gross exhibition space of 170,000 square metres. Among the major Belgian exhibitors are Picanol, Vandewiele, BMSvision, Bonas and HammerIMS. Luc Tack, CEO of Picanol and President of Symatex commented: “The trade show represents an important platform to help us connect with the Asian buyers at a time when the global economy is improving. ITMA ASIA + CITME is, without doubt, the most important trade show for the textile industry in Asia. As China is one of the most important markets for textile machines, it gives us the ideal opportunity to be closer to our customers. And we can only realize this objective by being present in the

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China: Peru terminates anti-dumping investigations against Chinese fabric

he Peruvian National Competition and Intellectual Property Protection Agency’s Committee on Dumping, Subsidies and Non-tariff trade barriers issued a notice stating that since the 100 per cent polyester fabric originating in China did not cause material damage to Peru’s domestic industry, the anti-dumping investigation against Chinese polyester fabric would be terminated and anti-dumping duties would not be imposed on it. The products involved are 100 per cent polyester fabrics

of taffeta, white or dyed with a width of less than 1.8 meters and a unit weight of between 80g/sq m and 200g/ sq m.Peru issued notice No. 010-2020/CDB-INDECOPI in response to the Peruvian company TecnologaTextil S.A. and decided to launch an anti-dumping investigation into 100% polyester fabrics originating in China. The dumping investigation period was from January 2019 to December 2019, and the injury investigation period was from January 2016 to December 2019.

China: Releases guideline for green, low-carbon economy

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China: Foreign investment law guarantee for rising FDI

hina’s foreign investment law has created a more market-oriented investment environment for foreign investors and enterprises, and has been acting as a guarantee for an increase of 4.5 per cent of foreign direct investment (FDI) to the country last year, according to Zang Tiewei, a spokesperson for the Legislative Affairs Commission of the National People’s Congress Standing Committee.Data shows the scale of foreign investment and the global share reached a record high, making China the world’s largest destination for foreign capital, according to a top Chinese newspaper. The result comes against the challenge of global epidemic and the law has shown Chinese government’s determination on opening-up policy, Zang said. FDI in China in 2020 increased by 6.2 per cent year on year (YoY) to reach a record high of 999.98 billion yuan, equivalent to $144, 37 billion and an increase of 4.5 percent YoY in US dollar terms, the ministry of commerce announced earlier. Actual foreign investment in Chinese service industry expanded by 13.9 per cent YoY with 77.677 billion yuan <<P33 carbon emission intensity, according to the guideline. By 2035, energy and resource utilization efficiency in key industries and for key products is expected to reach an internationally-advanced level, and the goal to build a beautiful China will be basically reached, says the guideline. To meet the targets, the document outlines key measures, including the development of green and low-carbon production, consumption and circulation systems. China has announced that it will strive to peak carbon dioxide emissions by 2030 and achieve carbon neutrality by 2060.

and took 77.7 per cent of all FDI. As part of the law, foreign-invested enterprises will be granted access to government procurement markets through fair competition. The law also bans using administrative licensing and penalties to force foreign investors and firms to transfer technology. Foreign companies are entitled to equal participation as their domestically-invested peers in the formulation and revision of national, industrial and local standards in accordance with the law. They can make standardsrelated recommendations and undertake such work as setting standards.The ministry recently released 22 measures to expand high-level opening-up, including technology and talent from global markets, to reinforce China’s strengths in attracting foreign investment. The ministry said it will promote the integration of international and domestic industry chains, and relax the requirements for foreign investors’ strategic investment in listed companies, including such areas as qualification requirements, shareholding ratios, and shareholding lock-up periods.

China: Textile industry grows despite pandemic

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t the 15th Annual Conference of the China Textile Roundtable Forum hosted by the China National Textile and Apparel Council, Gao Yong, Party Secretary and Secretary-General, China National Textile and Apparel Council, stated that despite the pandemic’s impact, Chinese textile industry grew as it benefited from online sales, intelligent manufacturing and stable supply chain. GaoYoung said, the Chinese textile industry can develop further >>P36

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ASIA <<P34 during the 14th Five-Year Plan period by strengthening independent innovation of cutting-edge technology, brand and fashion soft power, green development leadership, control ability of international supply chain, etc., strengthen the advantages of the manufacturing system, and solve the shortcomings of the industrial chain supply chain. According to Shan Zhongde, Academician, Chinese Academy of Engineering and President, Nanjing University of Aeronautics and

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Astronautics, China needs to promote research and development of intelligent high-quality textile equipment, improve efficiency, performance and digital level, truly realize automatic perception, intelligent decision-making, and automatic execution. At the same time, actively develop serviceoriented textile manufacturing and promote personalized customized production models. As per China Textile, the country’s textile and apparel exports grew 9.6 per cent in 2020 to $291.22 billion. The total volume of textile industry

declined year-on-year, but benefiting from online sales, intelligent manufacturing and stable supply chain of the industrial chain, the textile industry still has outstanding performance in the operation: Domestic textile market recovered in the second half of last year. According to the National Bureau of Statistics, the year-on-year decline in retail sales of clothing, footwear, hats and knitted textiles of enterprises above designated size gradually narrowed from more than 30 per cent at the beginning of the year to 7.9 per cent in previous November.

growth rate of the value-added output from China’s high-tech manufacturing sector reached 10.4 percent, up 4.9 percentage points from that of the overall industrial output, MIIT data showed. The information transmission and software and information technology service industries have seen remarkable progress during the period. Their value-added industrial output surged from 1.8 trillion yuan to 3.8 trillion yuan with the proportion in gross domestic

product growing from 2.5 percent to 3.7 percent, Xiao added. By the end of 2020, household penetration of fixed broadband in China reached 96 percent, while the mobile broadband penetration rate came in at 108 percent, the data showed. In terms of 5G development, the country has built a total of 718,000 5G base stations by the end of last year, with the number of mobile terminals connected to the network exceeding 200 million, according to the MIIT.

pandemic. Exports spiked 60.6 percent on-year in the JanuaryFebruary period, well above analysts’ expectations, while imports rose 22.2 percent, official data showed. The latest figures stand in stark contrast to last year’s fall of around 17 percent in exports and 4 percent drop in imports. The country struggled to contain the spread of Covid-19 early on, with consumers staying home and businesses seeing a slow return to

operations. The customs administration said comparison to last year is also likely to have bolstered the latest figures, saying in a statement that the “low base is one of the reasons for the larger increase this year.” The official data showed that electronics exports rose 54.1 percent, while textiles including masks rose 50.2 percent. China’s overall trade surplus came in at $103.3 billion, >>P38

China: World’s top manufacturing hub for 11 consecutive years

hina has maintained its position as the world’s largest manufacturing hub for 11 straight years, accounting for nearly 30 percent of the global manufacturing output, according to the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology (MIIT). In the past five years, the valueadded industrial output in China has increased from 23.5 trillion yuan ($3.63 trillion) to 31.3 trillion yuan, Xiao Yaqing, minister of MIIT, said. During the 13th Five-Year Plan (2016-2020) period, the average

China: Exports spike to highest in decades after Covid-19 hit

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hina’s export growth jumped to the highest in over two decades, official data showed, with imports also surging in a sharp bounceback from the coronavirus outbreak that had brought activity to a near halt. Electronics and textile exports such as masks contributed to the spike in outbound shipments, as demand for work-from-home supplies and protective gear against the virus outbreak soared during the 36

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ASIA <<P37 its customs administration said. Meanwhile, the country’s trade surplus with the US -- a key point of contention during the trade war pursued by former president Donald Trump -- doubled from the same period last year to $51.3 billion. Chinese authorities started combining January and February trade data last year, while it battled the coronavirus outbreak. This is in line with how some other indicators are released, to smooth over distortions from the Lunar New Year holiday, which can fall in either month. China’s foreign trade data remained strong despite the “off-season”, the customs authority said. Trade was also high due to a recovery in production and consumption in major economies such as Europe and the United States amid the coronavirus pandemic, as well as improvements in domestic consumption. Although business activity usually falls during the Lunar New Year period when workers return to their hometowns, official appeals to avoid travelling this year to keep the Covid-19 outbreak in check supported production, the customs administration added. “Many enterprises in major foreign trade provinces

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such as Guangdong and Zhejiang maintained production during the Lunar New Year,” it said. “Market demand is expected to rebound further.” Some companies have also been stocking up on goods such as integrated circuits, iron ore and crude oil imports. “Global electronics demand has risen strongly due to the global shift to remote working and online shopping,” said Rajiv Biswas, Asia-Pacific chief economist for IHS Markit. This had driven demand for electronics products such as laptops, mobile phones and wearables, he said. Meanwhile, the strong import growth also reflected a “normalisation of consumer spending” in China, he said, after a severe slump due to lockdowns. Analysts have warned the demand boom for protective equipment supporting Chinese exports could fade as pandemic controls improve globally, although this may not happen too soon.“The pandemic might have already changed people’s behaviour. I think this kind of demand will still be in place for some time,” said ANZ Research senior China economist Betty Wang. But Chinese authorities cautioned that, given global uncertainties, there is “a long way to go towards steady growth in foreign trade”.

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China: Leading source of second-hand clothes to Kenya in 2020

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hina was the leading source of second hand clothes and footwear to Kenya in 2020, said a report on the state of second hand clothes and footwear released in Kenya . Kwame Owino, CEO of the Institute of Economic Affairs (IEA), said in Nairobi that one of the reasons for significant imports into Kenya is that China has a huge textile sector and thus the capacity to export both used or out of season textile and apparels. The report published by IEA seeks to examine the structure and extent of the used clothing industry and its contribution to the economy.

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China’s economy grew 2.3% in 2020

hina’s economy grew by 2.3 percent year-on-year in 2020, the National Bureau of Statistics said. The country’s gross domestic product stood at 101.6 trillion yuan ($15.67 trillion) last year, and its per capita GDP is expected to reach 72,447 yuan, up 2 percent over the previous year. China’s per capita GDP has exceeded $10,000 for two consecutive years, said Sheng Laiyun, deputy head of the National Bureau of Statistics. During the 13th Five-Year Plan period (2016-20), China’s annual average

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According to the report, China accounted for 41 percent of all imports of second hand clothes in 2019, with Pakistan, Canada, Britain and the U.S. as other major sources.The report indicated that 97 percent of Kenya’s imports in second-hand textiles were made from almost 20 countries.According to the study, Kenya is one of the largest importers of second-hand clothes in SubSaharan Africa because of its use and export to other countries. “The volume of imported second-hand clothes and footwear reflect the domestic demand for these goods among the Kenyan population,” says the IEA report.

nominal increase in GDP reached 6.5 trillion yuan, 1 trillion yuan higher than the figure during the 12th Five-Year Plan period (2011-15). At the same time, per capita disposable income of residents increased by 2,045 yuan annually on average in nominal terms, an increase of 156 yuan than that during the 12 Five-Year Plan period. Some 55.75 million rural poor people have been lifted out of poverty, and the country saw 11.15 million people overcome poverty annually on average, according to Sheng.

Pakistan: Allow cotton imports from India

akistan may allow cotton imports from India through land route as prospects of gradual restoration of bilateral trade ties have brightened the new ceasefire agreement along the Line of Control. As per a SRTEPC report, the issue of cotton shortfall has already been brought to the notice of Prime Minister Imran Khan, who also holds the commerce ministry. Once a principled decision is taken, a formal order will be pre-

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sented before the Economic Coordination Committee of the Cabinet. India and Pakistan issued a joint statement to strictly observe all agreements on ceasefire along the LoC and other sectors after the hotline discussions by their Director Generals of Military Operations. As per reports, the trade ties between both the countries can help minimize cost of production >>P39 ®

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ASIA

Pakistan: Imports of Indian Cotton Opposed By APTMA

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ll Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) has strongly rejected the plan, if any, to import cotton yarn from India. In a statement, Asif Inam, Chairman of APTMA Sindh and Balochistan chapters, expressed deep concern on drastic decline in price of fine counts of yarn by Rs10,000 per bag in Faisalabad Yarn Market which is in expectation of massive tax evasion plan by individuals in anticipation of permission be allowed to import cotton yarn from India through Wagah Border. Asif Inam in the statement issued said that industry has procured cotton at very high prices and they are not in a position to sustain these losses. <<P38 in Pakistan and ensure sustained food supplies. There is a minimum shortfall of six million bales and Pakistan has so far imported roughly 688.305 metric tonne of cotton and yarn, costing $1.1 billion, according to the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics. There is still a gap of about 3.5 million bales that needs to be filled through imports. Due to shortage of cotton and yarn, the users were compelled to import them from the United States, Brazil and Uzbekistan. However, imports from India would be far cheaper and would reach Pakistan within three to four days.

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He said that about 90 percent of yarn produced in the country is available for the domestic market and there is no shortage of yarn in the country. He urged the government not to allow import of cotton yarn from India as India has imposed restriction on import of all Pakistani products. To restrain import of yarn from India and support the local industry he demanded the government to withdraw a levy of sales tax on zero rated sector so that the genuine industry may flourish and be able to provide yarn at affordable prices. He also urged the government to save domestic industry from total closure, DLTL should not be provided on those entire textile products produced using imported materials which are either produced or manufactured in Pakistan as all such textile items which are produced using imported materials are incurring losses to the national exchequers because most of the exporters fall under the category of Fixed Tax Regime whereas they are also availing DLTL facility ranging between 2 percent to 4 percent and subsidized Export Refinance Facility which is provided from the revenue earned by the government. He demanded that DLTL and ERF should only be provided on the products produced using domestic yarn and fabrics.

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Pakistan: PRGMEA appeals for duty-free import of fabrics under DTRE

akistan Readymade Garments Manufacturers & Exporters Association (PRGMEA) has appealed the government to allow duty-free import of fabric under a simple and easy procedure instead of ‘Procedure of Duty Tax Remission for Exports’ (DTRE). AdeebIqbalSheikeh, Vice-Chairman and North Zone Head, PRGMEA suggested the government to review its textile policy to remove hurdles hindering exports and to enable the textile sector to attain the exports targets. It urged the government to abolish all duties on the

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import of fabrics in line with the import relaxation provided on import of cotton yarn, as value-added garment sector is facing severe shortage of basic raw material of fabrics, which may lead to a drastic decline in value-added textile export. PRGMEA also wants duty-free import of fabric, as the cotton prices find no respite from an unabated spike with the industrial input trading at season’s highest rates because its muted local production continues to widen demand and supply gap,Sheikeh added.

Bangladesh: Appeals against Indonesia’s safeguard duty on apparel exports

angladesh has appealed against Jakarta’s imposition of safeguard duty on export of apparel items to Indonesia. Recently, the committee on safeguards of the World Trade Organization (WTO) issued a notification on the duty imposition. As per this notification, Jakarta imposed a safeguard duty ranging from $0.44 to $11.29 per piece on readymade garments (RMG) from Bangladesh, China, Vietnam and Singapore. The RMG items include top garments (casual), top garments (formal), bottom garments, suits, ensembles and dresses, outwear, babies’ garments and clothing accessories, and headwear and neckwear. Opposing this imposition, Hafizur Rahman, Director General-WTO Cell, Commerce Ministry, said a Bangladesh delegation comprising representatives of commerce ministry, Bangladesh Trade and Tariff Commission, and Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) took part in a

hearing in November last year. Indonesia’s textile association appealed to the Safeguards Committee saying the country’s RMG import was hurting the domestic apparel makers. Subsequently, the Indonesian Safeguards Committee conducted an investigation in 2017-2019 and came up with the measure.

Bangladesh: Opens $100 million PPE plant

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eximco – the largest multinational holding conglomerate in Bangladesh – has just opened a $100-million complex for the production of personal protective equipment (PPE), in a bid to rival China as a major manufacturer and exporter of such products. Located in Savar, 24 kilometres to the northwest of Dhaka, the 25-acre vertically-integrated PPE Park will make meltblown nonwovens >>P42

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ASIA <<P41 and laminated fabrics in different weights and turn them into isolation and surgical gowns, N95 facemasks, disposable scrubs and woven and knitted shoe covers and head covers. “The new facility will help manufacturers, buyers, retailers, brands and the government with required services, since all the services will be available under one roof, encompassing European, American and other global regulatory standards,” said Beximco CEO Syed Naved Husain at the inauguration ceremony earlier this

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month. “This should help us realise our vision of seeing Bangladesh as the largest manufacturer and exporter of PPE products.” The Park will serve both domestic and international markets and is aimed at increasing the diversity of the supply of PPE, ensuring that it is not totally dependent on any one country, he added. “Beximco has steadily contributed to the meteoric rise of Bangladesh as a manufacturing hub in South Asia

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and I am delighted with the new development since it will put the country on the world’s PPE manufacturing map.” Through its new Beximco Health division, the company already has agreements to supply PPE, including masks and protective gowns, to major US healthcare service providers. UK-headquartered product testing and certification company Intertek has worked with Beximco to develop a Centre of Excellence at the PPE Park. This covers an area of 12,000 square feet, with major sections for physical testing and respiratory analysis, as well as chemical and micro-biological testing, ensuring that it meets the regulatory and quality assurance requirements of global PPE manufacturers. Last year, at the height of the first wave of the Covid-19 pandemic, Beximco pivoted from producing garments to protective equipment within a matter of weeks, learning the specialised fabrication techniques, setting up production lines, and producing 6.5 million gowns for distribution to the United States through the US Federal Emergency Management Agency. According to the most recent estimates, Bangladesh annually ships $6.7 billion in goods to America – nearly twice as much as it did a decade ago.

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Bangladesh: Going towards circular economy through its fashion waste

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s the country’s major part of the economy is dependent on the garment industry, it sees its way to effect change with circularity. Global fashion Agenda, together with partners this Reverse Resources, and more than 30 other brands, manufacturers, and recyclers have joined hands under ‘Circular Fashion Partnership’ in Bangladesh. Through this partnership, they aim to find solutions for post-production fashion

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waste & pandemic sized proportions of fabric deadstock and efficient scale-up for fiber recycling. Brands like Bershka, C&A, Bestseller, H&M Group, Grey State, Marks & Spencer along with the manufacturers like Renewecell, Worn Again Technologies, Lenzing and many more have invested in this project. Miran Ali, BGMEA director, favored encouraging the circular economy and also emphasized the growing demand for circular apparel.

Bangladesh’s one advantage in this project is that it typically produces larger volumes of the same item so the waste is more standardized there. Apart from this Bangladesh still has a dismal picture where more than 200 apparel factories closed amid pandemic and lots of workers lost their jobs.Rubana Huq, president of BGMEA, voiced concern last month over the outright collapse of the industry without official financial resources.

Teijin’s core materials and the development of green materials to support the global circular economy. This includes efforts to reduce CO2 emissions and to stimulate the hydrogen economy. ESTIC will also establish a satellite office at Brightlands Chemelot Campus, an international openinnovation community active in performance materials, sustainable processes and biomedical solutions in Sittard-Geleen, Netherlands, to further activate communication with external innovation communities and research institutes. Teijin, aiming to be a company that

supports the society of the future as well as the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), looks forward to ESTIC contributing to the development of sustainable products and technologies that help to lower environmental impact. Since the signing of the Paris Agreement, the world has come to recognize decarbonization as an urgent global task, based on which the agreement’s signatory nations have declared their respective national goals to realize carbon neutrality. Teijin declared its longterm >>P43

Japan: Teijin Establishes Europe Sustainable Technology Innovation Center

eijin Ltd. has established the European Sustainable Technology Innovation Center (ESTIC) in Arnhem, Netherlands, as a research and development facility tasked with developing technologies for a more sustainable world. As a research and development hub for Teijin’s environmental-value solutions, ESTIC will facilitate collaboration among researchers across borders to strengthen development initiatives in Teijin’s various business units. ESTIC will also undertake the challenge of developing all-new businesses that leverage the lifecycle capabilities of

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Japan: Apparel sales fall by 20% in January

apanese apparel sales fell by 20 per cent in January on a year-on-year basis. As per the data obtained from 10,997 stores of 56 companies associated with Japan Chain Stores Association (JCSA), these stores clocked revenues worth 59,288.98 million yen in January ’21, which valued 74,204 million yen in January ’20. Menswear clocked 11,002.90 million yen revenues during January ’21, which is a significant fall of 26.40 per cent on Y-o-Y basis The revenues were down on M-o-M basis too as there was a 20.70 per cent decline noted in January as compared to December ’20.

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Womenswear revenues valued 14,559.98 million yen in January with a drastic fall of 29.40 per cent on Y-o-Y basis. However, M-o-M decline was not huge as the sales of women clothing in Japanese chain stores dropped by 14.80 per cent as compared to December ’20. All other types of clothing, including kidswear, clocked revenues worth 33,726.23 million yen, a decline of 12.60 per cent; however the drop was discouraging for the retailers as compared to December ’20 as a huge 31.80 per cent drop was recorded on monthly note.

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<<P42 goals for reducing environmental impact in the company’s 2020-2022 management plan, entitled ALWAYS EVOLVING, that was announced in February 2020. The company is now pursuing growth and development in line with these goals. Teijin also supports the United Nations Global Compact as well as the SDGs through measures such as developing environmental

solutions for a more sustainable world. Under Teijin’s medium-term management plan to continuously create accurate business opportunities and accelerate market development, the company is prioritizing initiatives to strengthen internal and external collaboration, further diversity and inclusion, and fasttrack innovation, ultimately to support the company’s development of innovative products and services.

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Japan: YKK’s launches new products focusing on plastic and waste problems

n order to address the marine plastic problem, YKKJapan-based world’s largest zipper manufacturer has launched 3 sustainably focused offerings in its Spring/ Summer 2022 collection. These 3 products are AcroPlating- which uses environmentally friendly finishing for snaps and buttons; Natulon- which features taping made of recycled polyester yarn; and Vislon Nylon, a recyclable zipper. YKK’s NATULON® Ocean Sourced™ collection of zippers are made from ocean-bound plastic. The plastic waste used is collected within 50 km of the coastline of Sri Lanka. Natulon series of YKK consists of recycled polyester yarn for the tape material and the collection features the GreenRise™ zipper which is the industry’s first zipper made with plant-derived components. The collection lowers petroleum usage by 30% and aims at lowering the company’s greenhouse gas emissions and the amount of plastic waste that is disposed of. For environmentally friendlier finishing for snaps and buttons, YKK has launched AcroPlating which is said to have a significantly lower environmental impact than conventional plating. It also reduces the consumption of chemicals, water, thermal energy, and GHG emissions.

The product is resistant to dry cleaning and corrosion and is manufactured in 6 colorways. YKK’s Vislon Nylon is a recyclable zipper, which can be recycled without separating its components beforehand. The main feature of the product is that it is made entirely from polyamide and can be recycled together with the nylon garment on which it is sewn. Product innovation team member for YKK Italia S.p.A, Saki Uesugi said that functionality is brought forehand from these products. They are not only focusing on color and shapes but also on material designing and manufacturing processes. They are building various technologies along with sustaining the familiar appearance so that more sustainable materials and manufacturing methods can be used. To accommodate the growing digital demands of partners, the new sustainable collection will be presented in a virtual showcase. In order to demonstrate YKK’s new offerings more clearly, the digital presentation will include a 3D and color options simulator. During the pandemic, this new concept has taken a stronghold throughout the industry.

Japan: Shima Seiki launches first remote system for shifting work patterns

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hima Seiki has launched its first remote system, Apex Fiz- a platform created in response to the shifting work patterns induced by the global pandemic. Shima Seiki’s high-tech flat knitting machines are programmed via the company’s ‘SDS-ONE Apex Series’ software, which designers also use to design and develop knitwear. Until now designers had to have access to an actual SDS-ONE Apex design system –

accessing the design element of the software remotely just wasn’t possible. Without the ability to travel, and with trade shows and yarn fairs cancelled, designers have been unable to make the necessary trips to view yarn innovations and collections with the tactility they so crucially need. Whilst shade cards can still be requested from spinners, the waste produced by >>P45

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Indonesia: Import Duties to be imposed on China and Bangladesh

he country’s government will introduce a safeguard tax on ready-made garments imported from China, Vietnam, Singapore and Bangladesh within the next 90 days, Sourcing Journal reports. Last year, the Indonesian Textile Association (API) anticipated a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 5 percent for the textile and garment sector, but Covid-19 wreaked havoc with those plans, with the country’s GDP dropping for the first time since the 1998 Asian financial crisis, contracting 2 percent year-over-year in 2020. The decision, which has been discussed since November, aims to bolster Indonesia’s textile and garment sector in the wake of Covid-19. While this will put an end to the duty-free access China, Vietnam and Singapore

<<P44 ordering shade cards that end up being surplus to requirement – not to mention the vast amounts of space needed to store them whilst working from home- means designers have far less access to yarn and trend inspiration. Combine this with the delays many factories are facing in sampling lead times, and the result is a severe lack of access to yarn and fabrics to integrate into designed collections.

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currently enjoy, industry leaders in Bangladesh are fighting back against the tax — they say it will further debilitate their local manufacturers that are still reeling from order cancellations by European and American partners. Many analysts believe that the growing number of consumers in Indonesia (the world’s fourth-most-populous country, with a median age of 28.6) could turn to more upscale options in terms of shopping for both local and globally manufactured apparel. An estimated 30 percent of Indonesia’s total production goes toward meeting domestic demand, with the remainder exported to the U.S. (36 percent), the Middle East (23 percent), the EU (13 percent), and China (5 percent). Meanwhile, the government is taking no chances in enhancing protection for the local apparel industry. Deliberations to impose the safeguard have been ongoing since November, after authorities launched a “safeguard investigation” that sought to determine “whether increased imports of a product are causing, or threatening to cause, serious injury to a domestic industry,” according to the World Trade Organization (WTO).WTO noted that when local production is threatened by excessive imports, the safeguard measures can be imposed.

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Cambodia: Garment exports to EAEU drop by 36.6%

ambodian garment exports to the EAEU (Eurasian Economic Union) dropped by 36.6 percent year on year between April and June of 2020. As per reports, the garment industry is a backbone of Cambodia’s export industry with the Kingdom contributing more than half of the nation’s total merchandise exports, said Fibre2Fashion.

It noted that most of the garment manufacturers of Cambodia still follow the cut-make-trim technique because of underdeveloped manufacturing technologies and lower capital availability. The US and the EU are Cambodia’s major apparel export destinations and account for more than threequarters of the sector’s total apparel exports.

Bilateral trade between Cambodia and the EAEU reached $67.36 million in 2020. Exports from the Kingdom were $52.19 million. EAEU imports from Cambodia reached $15.17 million. Products exported to the EAEU were primarily clothes, footwear and rice. Imports include gems, fertilizers, animal feed, tractors, paper and pharmaceuticals.

Zeeman Europe, Walmart, TJ MAx USA, and Hudsons Canada, among others. The association estimates orders worth $200 million to have been booked and FOBAP projects double in quantity in the coming three to four months. New orders mostly comprise simpler and basic babies’ playwear, men’s athletic and sporting outfit, ladies’ dresses, and intimate apparel. He expects the orders to take total garment and hard goods exports to about $1.7 billion to $2

billion this year. Young estimates 10,000 to 20,000 jobs will be created in factories located in Metro Manila and Cebu. To capture projected total export orders from top global fashion brands, Young urged the government to further support export activities, such as easing of the coronavirus quarantine and over restrictive pandemic regulations while still following the required health protocol amid the pandemic.

billion amid impacts of the latest wave of new Covid-19 cases in the country.Over the two-month period, local garment enterprises have been constantly receiving new orders, according to the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association. The growth in new orders was due to the recovery of global demand following the rollout of Covid-19

vaccines around the world, said the association. In 2020, Vietnam recorded an export turnover of roughly US$29.5 billion from textile and garment products, down 10.2 per cent from 2019, according to the statistics office. Its largest export markets included China, Japan, the European Union, South Korea and the United States.

an Union, the trade ministry said. Previously, clothes needed to be made with locally produced fabrics in order to enjoy the benefits of the

Vietnam-EU free trade agreement, according to the Ministry of Trade, Industry and Energy. “With South Korea >>P48

Philippine: Garment factories expect new orders worth $500 million

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lobal fashion brands are expected to grant Philippine garment factories new orders worth $500 million as they start transferring production orders from troubled Myanmar to the Philippines and other Asian countries. Robert Young, President, Foreign Buyers Association of the Philippines (FOBAP) informs, the group has been securing relocated garment and apparel production export orders and inquiries on fresh buying import program from buyers like

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Vietnam: Garment export stable in first 2 months

ietnam’s textile and garment export revenue totaled nearly US$4.8 billion in the first two months of this year, down just 0.01 per cent against the same period last year, according to the official statement from General Statistics Office. In February alone, Vietnam’s textile and garment export declined 6.4 per cent year on year to US$2.1

Vietnam: Apparel made with S. Korean fabric to enjoy lower tariffs in Europe

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pparel and clothing items produced in Vietnam with South Korea-made fabrics will be allowed to enjoy lower tariffs in the Europe46

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Vietnam: Garment export revenue up in January

xports of textiles and garments in January 2021 were estimated at US$2.6 billion, up 3.3 per cent year-on-year, according to the Ministry of Industry and Trade. The ministry said in January 2021, the textile production index and the apparel production index increased by 16.6 per cent and 9.9 per cent, respectively, over the same period in 2020. The production of fabrics was estimated at 92.4 million sq.m, up 20.4 per cent. According to Vũ Đức Giang, <<P46 being the second-largest supplier of fabric in Vietnam, the latest policy will lead to stronger demand for South Korean products, compared with other rivals such as China and Taiwan,” the ministry said in a statement. Vietnam relies on imports for 80 percent of its demand for textiles. In 2019, China accounted for 55 percent of Vietnam’s imports of fabrics, trailed by South Korea and Taiwan with 16 percent and 12 percent, respectively. Japan accounted for 6 percent. Last year, South Korea’s shipments of fabrics to Vietnam came to US$2.35 billion, down 18.4 percent on-year.

chairman of the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS), the Covid-19 pandemic will continue to affect the sector until 2022. If Covid-19 vaccines are available in the first and second quarter of 2021, the pandemic is expected to be controlled by the end of 2023. Then, the textile and garment market could see recovery, Giang said. The VITAS chairman said textile and garment businesses must change production and business models as the pandemic has made global purchasing power for apparel products, including many traditional export garment products of Vietnam, fall by 70-80 per cent. This is a big challenge for the Vietnamese textile and garment industry. Businesses need to learn about changes in domestic and global markets to find solutions in production and business this year, according to Giang. He said the domestic textile and garment industry needs to build production chains, especially with countries in blocs that have signed trade agreements with Vietnam and Asean. The textile and garment industry also needs to have a sustainable development strategy, including

changes in production and business models according to the needs of brands and global consumers. They should pay attention to standards, certificates of origin and certification of environmental assurance, energy saving, renewable energy and product safety. To implement a sustainable development plan for the textile and garment industry, VITAS proposes the Ministry of Industry and Trade and the Government to issue the textile and garment development strategy in the 2030-2040 period. That would create favourable conditions to call investment to industrial zones to produce material that faces a supply shortage. The Ministry of Industry and Trade said that the textile and garment industry has great development opportunities from the recently signed free trade agreements, especially the potential of increasing exports to major markets. Of which, the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP) signed in November 2020 is expected to create opportunities for Vietnam’s textile and apparel products and also to replace >>P49

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S. Korea: Hyosung’s creora regen elastane grabs denim industry attention

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ith sustainability, traceability and transparency at the top of the denim industry’s agenda, mills and brands are seeking fibre technology solutions to help them create the most responsibly made, eco-friendly denim products, says leading fibre producer Hyosung. Among its sustainable fibre solutions, Hyosung will highlight its GRS-certified, 100% recycled creora regen

elastane made from reclaimed waste, which has been in demand since its launch in 2020. “Because we make our creora regen elastane from 100% reclaimed waste, we are helping our customers make a fully sustainable denim product,” said Mike Simko, Hyosung Global Marketing Director-Textiles. Hyosung’s creora regen >>P50

<<P48 some other export markets. Because the pandemic is not controlled and that has a great impact on the major export markets of Vietnamese textile and garment products such as Europe.RCEP is a positive factor for production and business activities of Vietnam’s textile and garment industry in 2021 and beyond. Le Tien Truong, the Vietnam National Textile and Garment Group (Vinatex)’s chairman, said in addition to the efforts of garment makers, the government should consider lowering borrowing costs so that they can meet new requirements as well as invest in producing materials to meet rules of origin contained in new free trade agreements. He also suggested the government

introduce specific policies to support the garment sector’s development and direct the relevant agencies to reduce logistics costs and other tax burdens. At the same time, the Ministry of Industry and Trade should continue helping enterprises take full advantage of free trade agreements by issuing guidelines on rules of origin and opening a portal for enterprises to examine the benefits of such pacts. Vietnam aims to export $39 billion worth of garment products this year, according to national textile and garment group Vinatex. Last year, Vietnam’s garment export revenue was estimated at $35 billion due to the impact of the pandemic, as well as US-China trade tensions, protectionism and Brexit.

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World Lenzing unveils Tencel Modal fibre with Indigo Color technology

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he Lenzing Group is enhancing its sustainable offerings for the denim industry with Tencel branded modal fibres with its brand new Indigo Color technology. The pioneering technology behind the new market offering incorporates indigo pigment directly into Tencel branded modal fibres using a one-step spun-dyeing process. This, Lenzing says, delivers superior colour

fastness relative to conventional indigo dyeing whilst using substantially fewer resources. This innovative offering has been awarded with the EU Ecolabel; a label of environmental excellence awarded to products meeting high environmental standards throughout their life cycle. The denim industry’s demand for eco-responsible alternatives is growing >>P51

<<P49 lastane has caught the attention of Tejidos Royo a leading denim innovator and manufacturer committed to sustainability. “What is really exciting for us in working with Hyosung is that they have the textile solution that will allow us to make denim fabric made from 100% recycled content”, said Jóse R. Royo, Sales Director, Tejidos Royo. Hyosung will also share developments with its 3D Max creora elastane, which allows denim products to have dual performance features - ultra-stretch and excellent recovery that lasts over time. According to Simko, denim made with 3D Max creora elastane eliminates the need for stretch polyester and the fabric can be treated for environmentally friendly laser washing to create distressed looks. In addition to its 100% recycled regen creora elastane

and 3D-Max creora elastane Hyosung will present the following eco-friendly, multi-function fibres: - MIPAN regen aqua X: recycled cool-touch nylon with UV protection - regen askin: recycled cool-touch polyester with UV protection - regen aerolight: recycled lightweight polyester with high-performance moisture management Hyosung is a comprehensive fibre manufacturer that produces world-class products, providing innovation and solutions to the textile industry. Hyosung’s creora elastane is the world’s largest spandex brand, supplying the broadest range of stretch fibre offerings supported by exceptional technology and quality. Mipan nylon and specialty polyester provide functional and sustainable fibre solutions that are essential to today’s dynamic textile market.

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WORLD <<P50 rapidly, as brands and supply chain partners seek greater sustainability. Lenzing has been working closely with such partners to counteract environmentally harmful denim production processes via the botanic origin of its raw materials and responsible production processes. Denim remains an important market for Lenzing, and the introduction of Tencel Modal with Indigo Color technology is designed to help reduce the ecological footprint of denim fabrics and garments. Produced in Austria, predominantly from beech wood derived from sustainably managed wood sources, the new offering has been designated BioPreferred by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA). The Tencel brand is leading revolutionary change for the denim industry and it has always been one of my go-to eco-fibres for my collections “Innovation is at the core of what we do, from sustainable fibre sourcing through industry leading features and production processes, with the everpresent goal of safeguarding our environment,” says Florian Heubrandner, Vice President Global Textiles Business at Lenzing AG. “By upending traditional manufacturing processes and implementing our

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pioneering technology along with renewable and eco-responsible materials, Tencel Modal with Indigo Color technology sets a new benchmark for indigo application and sustainability in the denim industry.” Among early launch collaborators for Tencel Modal with Indigo Color technology is Adriano Goldschmied, founder of House of Gold, who is widely regarded as the ‘Godfather of Denim’ for his progressive vision in denim development, Lenzing comments. “The Tencel brand is leading revolutionary change for the denim industry and it has always been one of my go-to eco-fibres for my collections,” states Goldschmied. “We are thrilled to collaborate and launch the ‘Seed of Joy’ concept capsule with woven, circular and sweater knit fabrics using Tencel Modal with Indigo Color technology, in partnership with mills such as Blue Diamond and In The Loop, as well as machinery producer Shima Seiki.” Indigo Color technology builds upon the strong credentials of Tencel Modal fibres with new benefits, explains Lenzing. Compared to conventional indigo dyeing, the colour retention of Tencel Modal with Indigo Color technology is superior through dry and wet crocking and rubbing, the company adds. Despite resistance to home-laundry fading, >>P52

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WORLD <<P51 wash-down effects for denim products can be achieved using commercial laundry techniques, it adds. Tencel Modal fibres with Indigo Color technology are inherently versatile and enable implementation in a range of multi-fibre blends, Lenzing says. Compared to water and energy intensive conventional indigo dyeing, this technology provides indigo coloration with substantial water, chemical and electricity savings, along with less wastewater produced, and no heat energy used, the Austrian company claims. In addition, a specially commissioned indigo pigment from dyestuff manufacturer DyStar, ensures that Tencel Modal with Indigo Color technology can be certified with STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX, guaranteeing ultra-low levels of aniline. Günther Widler, Head of Technology, Denim of DyStar, comments: “This specially commissioned indigo pigment is based on more than a decade of our working experiences on Indigo Synthesis in Germany. Twenty-five years ago, we invented the most eco awarded DyStar Indigo Vat 40% to meet the demand for sustainable manufacturing and production.” To make the commercial launch of Tencel Modal with Indigo Color technology possible, Lenzing has partnered with leading supply chain partners including denim mills - Candiani and Cone Denim. “With driving sustainability at our core, we look forward to a fruitful collaboration with the production of this eco-responsible fibre type,” says Alberto Candiani, Global Manager of Candiani. “Tencel Modal with Indigo Color technology also represents a great product to expand denim’s performances and aesthetics around sustainability itself.” Steve Maggard, President of Cone Denim, adds: “Lenzing has long been an industry leader in sustainable fibres. With consumers being more eco-

conscious, the denim industry has to evolve and innovate in smarter materials to stay efficient and competitive. We are proud to partner with the Tencel brand to launch Indigo Color technology for modal fibres and promote greater sustainability for denim.” Tencel is the textile specialty brand under The Lenzing Group that covers textile specialty product fibre offerings for apparel and home. The Tencel product brand portfolio defines a new evolutionary step in terms of sustainability, functional benefits, natural comfort and caters for distinctive everyday usage or application. Product brands under Tencel include Tencel Active, Tencel Denim, Tencel Home, Tencel Intimate, Tencel Luxe and Tencel for Footwear.

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Collaboration addresses women’s workwear needs

ordura and Artistic Milliners have collaborated in the evolution of a new choice of workpants from USA women’s workwear specialist Dovetail. This marks the debut of the Noir No Fade Black Cordura denim, part of the Artistic Milliners Supercharged Cordura Denim collection. With the development of Noir denim from Artistic Milliners, Cordura brand was able to help Dovetail deliver tough, sustainable work pants. Dovetail is a company set up and run by women, dedicated to designing and producing workwear for women. Workwear that in their own words is: ’fit for the job and capable of anything’ “Just like women”, says Sara DeLuca, co-founder, who tells how it all began: “We build radical pieces out of need. Women tell us what they want, and we go from there. Our latest Maven and Britt style pants with ‘No Fade Black’ Cordura Denim came from a request >>P53

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WORLD <<P52 from our most hardcore customers, who asked for the toughest possible pant.” Like the women they were designed for, when faced with the toughest tasks these are products designed not to fade or give up any time soon “At the same time, we were getting requests for a nonfading black pant, from women who work in tough roles as roadies, theatre techs, and film crew. These pants are up to four times stronger than regular cotton denim and have a comfy stretch. There’s also a built-in long-lasting softness that comes from the supple wood based Lenzing Tencel branded modal fibres used. These fibres come from a blend sustainable wood sources and that’s important, because sustainability is a key factor now for our customers.” Ebru Ozaydin, based in New York,

is senior vice president of sales and marketing at Artistic Milliners – and one of the world’s leading specialists in the development and production of advanced nextgeneration denim fabrics. Ebru explains: “Artistic Milliners is a world player in the denim sector, and we were delighted to work with Dovetail and the Cordura team. Both these brands share our own innovative attitude to coming up with relevant solutions for today’s market. As a recognized UN pioneer in sustainability, our team was excited to harness our expertise to tackle Dovetail’s challenge.” “And we were able to deliver with the debut of the Noir (No Fade Black) denim that’s part of our Supercharged Cordura Denim collection. This is an exciting portfolio of durable, long-lasting, high-performance tech denims for today’s stylish and comfort-driven

consumers. Specifically, Noir is a black performance denim designed with “5S” technology: Softness, Strength, Stay-black colour, Stretchability, Sustainability. Truly special, this is a fabric that’s luxuriously soft and stretchy, eco-conscious, extremely tough and designed not to fade.” Cindy McNaull, Business Development Director at Cordura added: “At Cordura our belief is that: Sustainability Begins with Products That Last. Quite simply, the longer something lasts the less need to throw it away and consume yet more resources. What an incredible experience it was for me personally to be working with such a talented team – and in particular, to help develop a solution that was specifically addressing women’s workwear needs.” “When Ebru and I first met Sara, we were excited >>P54

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US companies reducing exposure to Chinese textile firms amid concerns over forced labour

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S companies are reducing their exposure to China’s textile and clothing suppliers with Washington remaining committed to combating forced labour issues. Last year, China’s share in the US apparel market fell to a decade-low of 23 per cent when measured by value, according to data from the Office of Textiles and Apparel under the US Department of Commerce. In contrast, the combined market share of China’s competitors in Asia, including Vietnam, Bangladesh, Indonesia, India and Cambodia, rose to a new high of more than 42 per cent in 2020, up 7 percentage points from a year earlier.The impact of coronavirus pandemic on the economy and the tariff imposed by the United States on Chinese goods since 2018 have played a major role in China’s shrinking shipments of clothing and textiles to the US last year. While China’s total textile and apparel exports to the US dropped by more than 30 per cent last year from a year earlier by value, its shipments of cotton related items to the US dropped by nearly 40 per cent, according to the US government data. Specifically, only 15 per cent of US cotton apparel came from China last year, down from 22 per cent in 2019, while imports of cotton textiles from China dropped by 4 percentage points to 27 per cent last year.“We shall not underestimate the impact of non-economic factors on China’s prospect as an apparel-sourcing destination in

2021. Notably, the reported forced labour issue related to Xinjiang, China, and a series of actions taken by the US government have significantly affected US cotton apparel imports from China,” said Sheng Lu, an associate professor of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware. “The new Biden administration has expressed its commitment to improving human rights and labour standards in international trade. It is likely that more draconian trade-restrictive measures or even economic sanctions will further change US fashion companies’ calculation about the costs and benefits of sourcing apparel from China in 2021 and beyond,” Sheng added. Earlier last month, the US government issued an order to detain cotton and tomato products produced in Xinjiang at US ports of entry over forced labour concerns. The order applies to all products made in part or entirely from Xinjiang’s cotton and tomatoes, including textiles and apparel. Over the past few years, China has faced mounting criticism, including from the European Union and the United States over the alleged use of Uyghurs and other ethnic minority groups in forced labour camps, mainly in the Xinjiang region. Beijing, however, has denied the claims, stating that it runs vocational training centres to combat religious extremism and terrorism. The International Labour >>P55

<<P53 by her vision of creating the toughest—but still comfortable and stylish—women’s workpant. I knew from our decade-long partnership with Artistic Milliners, that this team would be ideally suited to bring creative and sustainable solutions to meet the customer and product needs outlined by the Dovetail community.” “We worked closely together, pooling ideas and combining our strengths. Resulting in the launch of

Supercharged Noir Cordura Denim in these new Dovetail pant styles. Like the women they were designed for, when faced with the toughest tasks these are products designed not to fade or give up any time soon.” “This is very much how I see the future. A future based on innovation through collaboration and building durable relationships and products designed to withstand the test of time.”

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DuPont acquires Core Matrix Technology

uPont has acquired Tex Tech’s Core Matrix Technology, a monolithic protective fabric structure that is used in the most advanced ballistic vests worn by military and law enforcement. The fabric can significantly reduce blunt face trauma – injuries under the skin – while increasing ballistic and fragmentation performance. It is also said to increase the comfort of wearing bullet-resistant body armour. As such, it is a perfect fit with DuPont’s Kevlar and Nomex-based portfolio of life protection solutions, enabling the most flexible, lightweight ballistic solutions to meet new National Institute of Justice (NIJ) standards for enhanced durability in the USA. “The addition of Core Matrix Technology to the family of DuPont Life Protection solutions enables us to offer a more comprehensive portfolio to meet any and all protection needs for soldiers and law enforcement personnel,” said John Richard, vice president of

DuPont Safety Solutions. “With the combination of the Core Matrix Technology and our current and future fibre technologies we are well positioned to offer the best, most flexible and lightest weight solutions available.” “This transaction will increase the global accessibility of Core Matrix Technology,” added Scott Burkhart, CEO of Tex Tech. “Leveraging DuPont’s technical expertise, brand leadership, global reach and value chain relationships will accelerate its expansion across regions and market segments with a differentiated solution to improve the protection and performance of body armour for soldiers and law enforcement personnel.” With global headquarters in Kernersville, North Carolina, and manufacturing, R&D and sales sites located throughout North America, Europe and Asia, Tex-Tech supplies advanced nonwoven and woven fabrics to the aerospace and defence, medical, sporting goods, agriculture and automotive industries.

<<P54 Organization (ILO) has identified eight fundamental conventions covering areas considered to be basic principles and rights at work, like forced labour, collective bargaining and the right to form trade unions. Though China, a member of the ILO has already ratified four of

the less controversial conventions--on equal remuneration, discrimination, minimum age and child labour--it has not agreed to ratify two conventions on granting workers’ freedom of association and protect their right to organise.

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Fast route to sustainable logos with Compo-SiL

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ompo-SiL technology, developed by General Silicones of Hsinchu, Taiwan, is an alternative to heat transfer printing or silicone-based ink printing for adding logos to t-shirts and other apparel items. Several drawbacks limit standard heat transfer printing, the company says – large designs quickly become expensive to manufacture, the images do not last that long and it is not advisable to iron the textile’s printed area. While silicone is meanwhile a more sustainable alternative to still commonly used PVC and polyesters, silicone ink printing technology does not allow for shades and complicated patterns and is a time and labour-intensive processes. Compo-SiL overcomes heat transfer problems due to its patented modified PU layer and the advantageous properties of silicone. The inward-facing PU layer is easily printed with elaborate designs and applied to the fabric using HMA and other adhesives. The UV and

damage resistant silicone layer covers the printed PU layer on the textile, giving the print a long life and washing machine resistance. Because Compo-SiL can be easily cut and applied using roll-to-roll production processes, the timeconsuming process of silicone ink printing is also eliminated. The ability to create custom textures on the silicone rubber layer provides the designer with complete freedom in respect of colours and gradient selection, and also allows the creation of realistic metal and wooden effects. Compo-SiL ships in rolls that can be easily printed and cut, allowing suppliers to create small batches for events and corporate orders at an attractive price. The thin modified PU layer allows printing with existing printing machines and integration into existing roll-toroll manufacturing processes.

Microfibres may stop lungs mending in COVID patients

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icroplastics from textiles may inhibit the lung’s ability to repair damage caused by conditions such as COVID-19. The research was carried out by scientists at Groningen University, The Netherlands Organization for Applied Scientific Research and Plymouth Marine Laboratory. Finding both nylon and polyester negatively affected the growth and repair of airway tissue, researchers said the microfibres could make it more difficult for those with COVID-19 to mend their lungs. Speaking on The Plastic Health Channel, researchers will unveil new findings which revealed microfibres from textiles may be harming lung growth, development, and repair. With humans exposed to microplastic fibres on a daily basis, scientists also warned of the potential health

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risks for those with developing lungs, such as children. Professor Barbro Melgert, Principal Investigator of the Research, said: “A virus damages the lungs so you need repair, and if your lungs are filled with fibres that are inhibiting this repair then you are in for another problem in addition to COVID-19.” Researchers exposed airway and air sac organoids (miniature lungs) to nylon and polyester microfibres across 14 days to determine their impact, using fibres small enough to be inhaled. The resulting data suggested that microplastic textile fibre may especially harm developing airways or airways undergoing repair. Researchers focused on polyester and nylon as they are the most abundant material in indoor settings, where humans spend the >>P57

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WORLD <<P56 majority of their time. The findings build upon research from Dr Fransien van Dijk and colleagues on the impact of microplastics on lungs, which was unveiled at the Plastic Health Summit in 2019. A second study also set to be revealed on The Plastic Health Channel found airborne nanoplastics are travelling from the lungs of pregnant rats to their foetus. The study saw pregnant rats exposed to nanoplastics via inhalation before scientists measured the amount of plastic in both the maternal and foetal tissues. Nanoplastics were found in the pregnant rat’s lungs and heart, while they were also recorded in the foetus’ liver, lungs, heart, kidney and brain. Dr Phoebe Stapleton of Rutgers University, who conducted the study, warned the situation could

also be the case for human lungs. She said: “We need to get a better handle on human exposure overall initially. We need to identify the chemicals in these nanoplastics.” Both studies have raised serious concerns about the impact of microplastics entering the body, with experts on The Plastic Health Channel concerned about how they affect those suffering with COVID19. The Plastic Health Channel is organised and produced by the Amsterdam-based Plastic Soup Foundation, with a view to taking an in-depth look into research and studies on the impact of plastic on human health. Speaking on The Plastic Health Channel, Laura Díaz Sánchez, Ocean Clean Wash campaigner, warned that microfibres from clothing are present in indoor settings as well as shedding during washing. She

said: “More than half of the clothes we wear are made of materials like polyester. The problem with clothes made from materials such as polyester, with fibres which are short and spikey, is they get released much easier and then they are up in the air in this dust.” The Plastic Soup Foundation is an environmental non-profit against plastic pollution. Its mission is no plastic waste in our water & our bodies.

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DSM launches bio-based Arnitel with Sympatex Technologies

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oyal DSM has announced that its DSM Engineering Materials business will launch mass-balanced biobased Arnitel, a thermoplastic elastomer, together with Sympatex Technologies. In this way, DSM Engineering Materials is taking the next step on its sustainability journey and enabling its customers to transition to a more circular and bio-based economy, the company reports.To address growing consumer and legislative demand for lower carbon footprint and more sustainable feedstock, the sports and apparel value chain is increasingly integrating bio-based materials into its designs, DSM explains. By offering a new range of mass-balanced bio-based Arnitel, DSM Engineering Materials is enabling membrane manufacturer, Sympatex Technologies to meet these demands and make more sustainable choices, it adds. DSM’s bio-based Arnitel is manufactured with biobased feedstock using a mass-balance approach*. The end product contains more than 25% bio-based content by weight.Sympatex uses Arnitel to manufacture its waterproof, windproof, and breathable membranes for sports applications. The transition to bio-based feedstock will maintain the unique functional properties of Arnitel and will enable Sympatex to easily shift to a more sustainable solution with a lower carbon footprint without having to requalify materials, DSM says. Caroline Mittlerlehner, Vice President Specialties DSM Engineering Materials, commented: “Together with our partner Sympatex, we are taking the next important step on our sustainability journey and driving the industry’s transition from fossil-based to renewable resources.” Dr. Rüdiger Fox, CEO Sympatex Technologies, added: “We are seeing that partnerships such as ours with DSM accelerate the progress of our collective journey to a more sustainable world. Everyone in the value

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chain is benefiting, from suppliers to our customers and sports brands.” Shruti Singhal, President DSM Engineering Materials, said: “I’m very proud that DSM is helping lead the transition to a circular economy by offering an increasing range of bio-based alternatives to our portfolio. This builds on our extensive experience developing sustainable solutions, in line with our purpose of creating brighter lives for all. And, by working with our partners across the value chain, we’ll keep driving sustainability in our industry to new levels and contribute to delivering a better future.” *Mass balance accounting is a well-known approach that has been designed to trace the flow of materials through a complex value chain. The mass balance approach provides a set of rules for how to allocate the bio-based and/or recycled content to different products to be able to claim and market the content as ‘bio’based or ‘recycled’-based.

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EPA approves Livinguard’s selfdisinfecting textile

ivinguard has announced that the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has approved the hygiene-technology company’s patented self-disinfecting textile (EPA Reg N. 95700-2). Livinguard’s new textile is effective against Gram negative and Gram-positive bacteria to the tune of 100,000 times in 10 minutes, among the highest levels of defence against disease-causing pathogens. With patents, this is a one-of-a-kind technology, according to the company. In addition to killing 99.999% of bacteria, Livinguard’s technology continuously disinfects and is safe for humans and the environment, >>P60 GSTIN : 07AYHPS1826K2Z1

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WORLD <<P59 the company explains. Furthermore, the EPA approval confirms Livinguard’s self-disinfecting technology remains effective on textiles tested after 30 industrial washes, giving it broad application across many industries, it says. “This EPA certification is confirmation of Livinguard’s patented and break-through invention, creating a new selfdisinfecting-textile category, whereby the textile kills bacteria on contact, is washable and reusable,” said Sanjeev Swamy, Livinguard’s Founder and CEO. “Unlocking the limitless possibilities of permanent hygiene and proactively improving the health and safety of the public is at the heart of Livinguard’s mission. We can now have self-disinfecting airplane seats, hospital & hotel linens, sports apparel, medical scrubs, footwear, uniforms and

carpeting. Essentially, any business or organization that uses textiles can effectively utilize our selfdisinfecting technology.” While the latest breakthrough of the EPA approval marks a crowning achievement for the hygienetechnology company, Livinguard has already incorporated newer antimicrobial technology that it currently incorporates in a line of face masks that can be worn up to 210 times (approximately six months) and a line of gloves that can be worn up to 30 times with no compromise on safety or efficacy. Worn together, the two provide peace of mind for those seeking protection against airborne viruses and those transmitted on surfaces. Since the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic, researchers have studied the effectiveness of Livinguard’s next-generation self-disinfecting textile against the virus. Freie

University (Berlin) laboratory studies concluded Livinguard’s nextgeneration self-disinfecting textile efficiently inactivated SARS-CoV-2, the company reports. In addition, studies conducted by researchers at the University of Arizona, Tucson’s Water & Energy Sustainable Technology centre determined the textile’s efficacy against Human Coronavirus 229E. Livinguard says it is partnering with governments, retailers, transit companies, food packaging businesses and hospitals around

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Mechanix Wear and clim8 launch intelligent heated work gloves

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echanix Wear, a leader in highperformance hand protection, announced an official partnership with clim8, an innovation leader in intelligent thermal technologies for wearables. Through the new collaboration, Mechanix Wear becomes the exclusive workwear glove licensee of clim8 technologies in the US for 2021, which will allow the company to launch the first work glove in the US with an intelligent, self-regulating and activating heating system tailored to each unique individual’s optimum comfort levels. The partnership between Mechanix Wear and clim8 will enable the companies to develop industryleading products that thermoregulate the hands of anyone affected by cold weather. clim8’s intelligent technology allows users to control their heating comfort through the clim8 app, creating a unique thermal profile that automates the gloves to their ideal

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wearables. The company says its science proofed technologies use smart devices and sensors that are seamlessly woven into garments to create unique intelligent thermoregulating experiences for users – using advanced algorithms to automatically react and respond based on the user’s desired activity and comfort level.t“Our thermoregulation technology is designed to protect those that work or play in cold weather conditions. Through our partnership with Mechanix Wear, we’re able to collaborate with a proven leader in hand protection and technology to develop safe and innovative products and ensure peak performance,” said Florian Miguet, CEO of clim8. “Our launch with Mechanix Wear of the first ever workwear glove with intelligent, thermo-regulated technology is just the start in a series of advancements we’ll be sharing over time.”

directors and activists and its brand campaign is designed to inspire youth. The collection is designed using Adidas’s ready temperature management technology and is inspired by ‘land’ and borrowing cues from street sports and skater crews with blue, pink, and daring red tones. The collection is available in a range of floral prints. The spotlight of this collection is the ultra-lightweight parka made with prime green which is a highperformance yarn made with 50% recycled content with the temperature tech that allows the leggings to remain dry and

comfortable. Besides a range of hats, bags, and running packs; Ultraboost Sandal is another highlight of this collection which uses primeknit. Primeknit is Adidas’s method of using specialized knitting machines that utilize thermoplastic yarns resulting in strong and flexible single-layered textile in the shape of a shoe. It is created using a high-performance recycled material called Primeblue which delivers support and flexibility that is required to enhance an athlete’s motion and movement. McCartney shared on her website the reason behind the launch of this

Adidas launches new eco-friendly collection with Stella McCartney

n eco-friendly collection called ‘Futureplayground‘ has been launched by the German sportswear giant Adidas in partnership with British fashion designer Stella McCartney. In its brand campaign, this collection showcases activists and sustainable materials. On multiple design collaborations, Stella McCartney and Adidas have been working together since 2006. Futureplayground is their partnership’s most recent collection which will be released in the springsummer 2021 collection. To make the collection different, Adidas has roped in female 60

body temperature. The companies will release a limited edition run of their first intelligent thermal gloves for industrial workers and brand loyalists just in time for winter. Following the limited run, Mechanix Wear and clim8 will announce the product’s full availability later this year. “Mechanix Wear is dedicated to working with partners who can take our best-in-class hand protection and further its performance and versatility to those on the front lines,” said Michael Hale, CEO at Mechanix Wear. “This collaboration with clim8 will allow us to incorporate unique and innovative thermo-technology to Mechanix Wear’s existing gloves while expanding our product offerings to best address cold weather conditions and environments.”French company clim8 provides advanced heating technologies for optimal and personalized thermal comfort for

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collection. She said that she really wanted to change what she saw. She found that the sports clothing for women particularly in sports performance was a very ill addressed subject. There was not much variation in the designs and also only basic colors were used. She found it the best opportunity to offer women what they need and which will make them look good. Apart from this on the technical side, she found it really exciting to work with cutting-edge sports performance technology which they offered to women. For the release of this collection, artists Monika Mogi and Yuri Hibon who share a common passion for sustainable and cotton farming collaborated with Japanese Olympic archer Ren Hayakawa and shot a film. To showcase what the brand stands for elements such as shooting arrows were also used.

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e-commerce giant Etsy targets net-zero carbon emissions by 2030

he US-based online marketplace has pledged to achieve net-zero carbon emissions by 2030. Etsy said that they will address all 3 scopes i.e. Scope 1 and 2 emissions that include office operations and purchased energy while Scope 3 includes seller activities like shipping and packaging. The company’s target is to cut down Scope 1 and 2 greenhouse gas emissions by 50% and Scope 3 greenhouse gas emissions by 13.5%. Josh Silverman, Etsy CEO said that for the environment and humanity, climate change has remained an ever-present warning. They are bound and determined to do

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Discarded electrical wires are transformed into exquisite dresses

Innovative use for discarded electrical

wires is founded by Alexandra Sipa, a UK-based Romanian fashion designer by using them to create beautiful garments and accessories. Sipa is a 23-year-old girl who is a recent fashion graduate from London’s artsy Central Saint Martins University. After her earphones broke several times, she got the inspiration for this project. Before handcrafting her unique lace, she began to collect discarded electrical wires from her uncle’s construction site and a local recycling center. By sticking to her roots, in her work she incorporated traditional Romanian techniques and named the project ‘Romanian Camouflage.’ Sipa said that her graduate collection was driven by her motivation of using waste to create an innovative luxury textile. To develop garments and

accessories from wires, she used both hybridizing multiple lace-making techniques i.e traditional Romanian techniques, and popular western techniques. Made from upcycled wires, her collection contains a dress, ruffle coat, small top, vest, bag, and several accessories. But she has planned to expand it. Romanian heritage plays a significant role in Sipa’s work. She said that the concept of her collection was inspired by the Romanian heightened austerity and extreme femininity contrast. After watching her work with waste, her grandmother also inspired her. She hopes that projects like her collection could lead to positive environmental change by dealing with the growing issue of electronic waste. She said that she doesn’t want her work to simply be pretty for the sake of being pretty. Waste is becoming a

global and environmental problem and its largest growing source is electronic waste which has reached up to 50 million tonnes worldwide in 2020. Barely anyone is talking about the planned obsolescence of technological companies. By acknowledging the issues in the fashion industry, Sipa says that one of the worst offenders in relation to the climate emergency is the fashion industry which she has loved since she was young. Fashionwear made from upcycling waste will help in avoiding adverse environmental impacts. As she believes “sustainable textile innovation and couture go hand-inhand”, she hopes to work within an haute couture house. Until then, she will continue to experiment with electrical wire lace, figure out how it can be produced using machines, and explore its applications for textile beyond garments.

which the main sensor’s signal is supported by the assistance sensor. This deals with issues such as unnoticed fluff events, which might otherwise cause breaks downstream. Today’s market trends show strong demand for compact yarns and here, spinners can trust Quantum 4.0 to deal with any quality issues. The density feature, for example, protects mills from substandard cops caused by ring spinning malfunctions such as blocked compacting zones, or twist problems. The Smart Duo has the advantage of monitoring yarn density continuously and after every splice. “No matter where density variations originate, be it compacting, different

twist levels due to slip spindles or otherwise, Uster Quantum 4.0 takes care of it – and this is a real technical innovation,” said Uster product manager Katrin Hofer. A further valuable addition is the Blend Mix-up option, which enables mills to identify mix-ups of different types of raw materials. Developed in response to demands from customers, it detects any wrong raw material in greige and white yarns, to prevent barré effect in fabrics. “Cop mix-ups can happen in mills, since differences are hardly visible to the human >>P63 <<P62 eye, but Quantum 4.0 stops the problem before it becomes an issue, thanks to significantly

Faultless yarn spinning with the Uster Quantum 4.0

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ince being launched in 2010, almost three million Uster Quantum 3 yarn clearers have been put into operation at spinning mills worldwide. The unit introduced better contamination control, smart limits and quality alarms to isolate exceptions to consistent quality, all of which significantly boosted productivity. The Quantum 4.0 enables this via Smart Duo, which allows easy switching between the sensors for capacitive measurements of fibre mass and those for optical measurements of fibre diameter. The capacitive and optical sensors work intelligently in tandem through an innovation called Cross Clearing, which locates and eliminates hidden defects with a double check, in

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WORLD improved hardware and software – all underpinned by Smart Duo,” said Hofer. The higher processing power of the new sensors brings additional benefits such as the enhanced Continuous Core Yarn option, which detects both missing and off-centre cores continuously. A deeper analysis of polypropylene (PP) and foreign matter is also possible. A new PP classification gives users the overview of polypropylene content, while the Advanced FD classification now shows extra classe s below the 5% lines. Both these features add to the value of the contamination function, together with Total Contamination Control (TCC). As well as identify ing defects at winding, preventing defects at source is also possible with the clearer’s new

Quantum Expert. Thanks to additional analytical features, the Uster Quantum Expert enhances process control and prevention of de fects, through Total Contamination Control, Ring Spinning Optimization and the RSO 3D Value Module. These latest innovations in the new clearer protect spinners from claims and waste, but enabling business success is the re al purpose of Quantum 4.0. The latest clearing technologies work with Uster’s unique data analysis to enable flexible data-based decisions using Application Intelligence. “Failure prevention is the key to success and ta ckling issues at source is the way to do it,” said Hofer. No matter how much data – in terms of quantity and different parameters – is collected for analysis, Uster

Quantum Expert can manage the complexity, while remaining intuitive. A central SmartLimit button enhances flexibility, since operators can adjust all available smart limits with a single tap, based on the unique Yarn Body concept. Each individual limit can be simply fine-tuned as preferred. Users benefit from both the established Quantum workflows and the new customercentred user interface with a 16:9 touchscreen on the 7th generation control units.

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Dow introduces new DWR finish for sustainable textiles

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ow, a leading materials science company, has introduced Dowsil IE-8749 Emulstion, a new generation of durable water-repellent finishes (DWR) for fabrics based on silicone chemistry. “As the global textile industry quickly adopts new production practices and materials with reduced environmental impacts, it’s important to examine the water-repellent treatments being used as many conventional options come with a number of disadvantages,” said Shawn Mealey, technical service and development scientist at Dow. “At the same time, fashion designers are being tasked with finding fabric solutions that meet consumer and societal expectations for style, ease of care and durability. With Dowsil IE-8749Emulsion, we can help meet those needs and provide designers with a waterrepellent treatment that aligns with the industry’s overall push for greater sustainability.” Studies conducted on a variety of textiles substrates based on Dowsil IE-8749 Emulsion treatment demonstrate improved fabric retention compared to standard silicone finishes – thereby providing continued

water repellency after multiple washes, Dow explains. Unlike many conventional finishes, Dowsil IE8749Emulsion finish does not need to be regularly heat treated to restore the water repellency performance, which is a key advantage for the durability of the final product.By incorporating a Dowsil IE-8749 Emulsion treatment into their finishing processes, textile finishers receive greater control over the hand feel of the fabric - an important parameter driving consumer choices today, the company adds. Depending on specific need, this can range, from a very soft hand feel that is characteristic of silicone when used alone, to a firmer hand with the addition of cross linkers, Dow says. The technology powering Dowsil IE-8749 Emulsion was developed through a collaboration between Dow and Nicca Chemical and was recently recognized by a 2020 R&D 100 Award. It does not contain fluoroalkyl or fluorocarbon, Dow emphasises. This product comes in addition to several recently announced technologies by Dow in the textile space, focused on combining high performance, costeffectiveness, and improved sustainability profiles.

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WORLD

BCF S8 Tricolor meets need for trend towards multiple colours

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erlikon Neumag says it has found the right approach for its customers with the efficient BCF S8 carpet yarn system in Monocolor and Tricolor versions. Whether Monocolor or Tricolor, the performance data and technological details of the BCF S8 versions have already made a huge impression at numerous exhibitions and road shows, says Oerlikon. With up to 700 filaments per thread, the BCF S8 significantly outperforms its sister, the BCF S+ (400 filaments),

A

also guaranteeing finer titres of up to 2.5 dpf, the Neumuenster based company explains. In addition, the process speed of the new Witras III-37 winder is higher than ever at 3700 m/min – and provides increased throughput of up to 15% in comparison to previous technologies, adds Oerlikon Neumag. The bottom line is a system efficiency of 99%, as well as possible energy savings of up to 5 percent per kilogramme of yarn, it adds.

From a mélange to strict separation – the trend towards multiple colours for carpets goes on. The options for differentiating product for carpet yarn manufacturers are better than ever with the BCF S8 due to even more flexible colour mixture versions, the company concludes. More than 200,000 different colour shades derived from three colours are provided by the core component of the process, the new patent-pending CPC-T (Colour Pop Compacting unit).

by sustainable footwear and apparel brand Allbirds in the material innovation company Natural Fiber Welding and its Mirum technology for creating leather alternative called ‘Plant Leather’. Natural rubber, vegetable oil, and

other bio-ingredients are used to make the material. The new material is known to have 40 times less carbon impact than natural leather and 17 times less carbon impact in comparison to synthetic leather which is >>P66

Allbirds partners with Natural Fiber Welding to launch ‘Plant Leather’

new 100% natural plant-based leather alternative has been launched by San Francisco-based company Allbirds. This alternative has been added to its line-up of open-source eco-materials. 2 million dollars has been invested

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WORLD <<P65 made from plastics. Co-founder and co-CEO of Allbirds Joey Zwillinger said that it has been a long time that fashion companies are prioritizing cost and speed over the environment by relying on synthetics and unsustainable leather. He added that scalable and sustainable antidotes to leather are being created by Natural Fiber Welding which is resulting in a reduction of carbon emissions by 98%. On their journey to eradicate petroleum from the fashion industry, this partnership with NFW by the introduction of Plant Leather based on their technology is a powerful step. Allbirds was launched by industrial engineer Joey Zwillinger and former soccer player Tim Brown in 2016. Since then on the sustainable fashion platform, it has quickly made a name for itself by use of regenerative natural materials such as FSC-certified eucalyptus tree fiber and SweetFoam which is a proprietary innovation made with sugarcane. Initially, the company started as an e-tailer selling footwear but then it expanded into the apparel sector also. Globally there are around 22 brickand-mortar stores serving in 35 countries. new website and app was launched on Feb 16, 2021 by

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Renoon launches new site and app for sustainable fashion Amsterdam-based fashion-tech company ‘Renoon’, which serves as a platform helping customers discover sustainable and ethical fashion companies. This platform helps the customers to look for sustainable fashion using a wide range of parameters such as vegan, materials used, second-hand, rental, carbon-neutral, blockchain traced as well as acquire a knowledge of brands’ sustainability credentials. The platform contains categories such as human wellbeing, environmental protection, innovation and technology, animal ethics and modern consumption which deals with things like slow fashion. The sustainability certificates and features of the fashion products of retailers is automatically processed by the company’s patented technology and then splits them up on the site so that consumers can explore based on those categories. With the framework the users can see how the garments are judged online as sustainable and only those garments are shown on the site which meet Renoon’s strict ‘sustainability framework’. At a press event, Iris Skrami co-founder of Renoon said that for people to find the best way possible for sustainable

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options, they wanted to build the easiest and smartest way. When searching sustainably Renoon gives control back to the shopper. The idea for Renoon came to Shrami when for an upcoming party she was struggling to find a sustainable dress online. She also said that with the help of the right tools and technology, it will be alot easier to change the world in comparison to an individual. Since they understand the importance of sty;le hence they wanted to bring back the fun of fashion with the feeling of guilt. Initially, Renoon is running as an invite-only platform that targets people from the Netherlands. But, the full version of the site will be launched a bit later. Last year in Milan, Renoon was selected as one of the 10 most promising tech startups in the Fashion-Tech Startup Bootcamp program by Prada. This site is renowned by many of the top leaders in the fashion and tech industry, such as the chief financial officer of Moleskin, the ex-chief information >>P67 <<P66 officer of Gucci, and the exmanaging director of Spotify.The former chief technology officer of

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Filson adopts Gerber Technology’s YuniquePLM fortable outdoor clothing prized by hunters, anglers, engineers, explorers, miners and anyone who has a passion for the outdoors. As Filson strives to offer the level of service C.C. Filson would expect, it leveraged Gerber Technology’s cloud-based product lifecycle management (PLM) system, YuniquePLM, to ensure a smooth, digital process that will promote team collaboration and empower it to offer the highest quality products, whether they are in the office or working remotely. “When we were looking to implement a PLM solution, the head of IT said YuniquePLM was the Cadillac of PLM systems. It’s the best solution on the market,” said June Evans, Director of Technical Design at Filson. “We ultimately chose YuniquePLM because of how easy it is to use and the integration with AccuMark. YuniquePLM is an incredible asset and has helped tremendously over the last several months as we all adjusted to working remotely.” When COVID-19 caused a vast majority of companies to work from home, Filson was ready for the challenge. Four years ago, Filson digitally transformed its development Yoox Net a Porter Group and an investor, Irene Boni said that Renoon allows consumers to see underneath the true offering of the companies’ sustainability claims which makes it very special. When it comes to sustainability and putting it in the hands of the shoppers, it’s really a matter of getting a lense of truth. More than 1 million products are available on Renoon from over 200 partner brands including Vestiaire Collective, Stella McCartney, and Luisaviaroma Sustainable. stablished in 1897, Filson is a leading outfitter and manufacturer of ‘unfailing goods’ for outdoor enthusiasts and has been the ‘gold standard’ for tough, com-

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process by integrating YuniquePLM into its workflow. When it was time to pack up the office and transition to remote working, Filson was able to do so without any issues and in no time, Gerber reports. Prior to YuniquePLM, Filson was using excel for tech packs and other manual processes which were time consuming and inefficient. All of its information was stored on a local server which made collaboration and product development difficult as it had to ensure data was updated in multiple places. Through seamless integration with AccuMark, Gerber’s CAD pattern design software, YuniquePLM enabled Filson to streamline the entire design and development process while improving collaboration, minimizing errors, and allowing the company to easily transition to remote work. “YuniquePLM is a necessity in uncertain times like these,” said Clayton Parker, Director of PLM Product Management at Gerber Technology. “Our solution is incredibly easy to use and enables our customers to get up and running as quickly as possible. When COVID-19 caused many companies to temporarily shut down, a majority of our customers were still able to be productive because they leveraged YuniquePLM.” Filson leveraged one-on-one sessions with the Gerber Consulting team to fully implement YuniquePLM in just a few weeks. In addition to its product development team, several other departments, including sales, marketing, customer service, and engineering, are leveraging YuniquePLM to gain access to helpful product data and information. Filson is able to onboard new users into YuniquePLM in as little as half an hour, Gerber concludes. PInnovations, a Canadian research and development centre based in Montreal, has successfully developed a biodegradable facemask for public use that is ready to be manufactured in Canada.

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EXHIBITION SCHEDULE 2021

YARN EXPO April 17-19 Surat Exhibition Centre Sarsana The Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce & Industry International Technology of various types of Yarn.

YARNEX / TEXINDIA April 24-26 Dana Mandi (Ludhiana) Punjab Yarns, Fabrics & Accessories

GARTEX TEXPROCESS INDIA MAy 4-6 Pragati Maidan, New Delhi, India Gartex Texprocess India is a comprehensive tradeshow on garment textile machinery & Accessories GTE May 28-31 B-209, Ground Floor, Okhla Indl. Area, Phase-1, New Delhi-110020 (INDIA) South Asia’s Largest and Most Comprehensive Garment Machinery & Technology Fabrics & Accessories Expo

HGH June 9-11 Bombay Exhibition Center Mumbai (INDIA) Home Decor Gifts House Ware

2021 2021 2021 2021 2021

F&A SHOW / YARNEX July 1-3 Pragati Maidan, New Delhi, India Yarns, Fabrics & Accessories

GARTEX TEXPROCESS INDIA August 6-8 Pragati Maidan, New Delhi, India Gartex Texprocess India is a comprehensive tradeshow on garment textile machinery & Accessories KNIT SHOW August 27-29 Velan Hotel Fair Ground, Kangayam Road,TIRUPUR (T.N) Machinery, Garments Accessories, Fabrics & Allied Product

YARNEX / TEXINDIA September 16-18 India Knit Fair Complex, Tirupur, India. Yarns, Fabrics & Accessories

INDIA ITME December 8-13 Grater Noida (U.P.) INDIA Fibers, Yarns & Fabrics, Spinning, Winding & Texturing, Nonwovens Machinery etc.

APPAREL SOURCING FAIR / HOMTEX July 1-3 Pragati Maidan, Delhi (INDIA) Garment & Fashion Accessories, Home Textiles, Home Decor

Disclaimer Readers are requested to verify & make appropriate enquires to satisfy themselves about veracity of an advertisement before responding to any published in this magazine. World Impex Inc, the publisher & owner of this magazine, does not vouch for the authenticity of any advertisement. In no event can the publisher of this magazine be held responsible/liable in any manner.

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Accelerating Industry Innovation Through Collaboration Be a part of the world’s largest textile and garment technology exhibition. Together we will shape the future of textiles and lead sustainable change in our world.

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