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Volume 11

Issue 3

March 2018

Page 88

Haryana govt approves new policy Fall in exports for the Home Textile segment: CRISIL

India to get standardised clothing size chart by 2021

Pakistan: Textile, clothing exports fall 10% in six years

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TK Sengupta new president of TAI for 2017-19 Haryana govt approves new policy Ted Baker marks entry in India with ABFRL Lower cotton prices to support textile sector profitability: Ind-Ra Grasim earmarks Rs 3,500 crore to boost VSF capacity Hike in ROSL funds to boost textile export Fall in exports for the Home Textile segment: CRISIL Italian kidswear brand Monnalisa to enter Indian market H&M India to make online foray later this year UP Khadi products now available on Amazon India India to get standardised clothing size chart by 2021 UP govt signs 29 MoUs in textile industry Govt plans yarn depot with UP Raymond Group to invest Rs425 crore in Maharashtra e-retail market may see 250% growth in 3 yrs: Crisil Maharashtra, Hyosung Group sign MoU for spandex unit Textile union appeals to global brands over fair wages, jobs Indian apparel exports decline by 14% in Jan 2018 TSIIC proposes establishment of small and medium textile park Tirupur textile manufacturing units to get classified ... Weavers express concern over fluctuating prices in ... Cotton imports set to rise as textile mills prefer U.S. cotton Jharcraft signs MoU with Banka Silk India’s home textile exports share market to US remains dull Pashmina needs a major makeover to survive in Kashmir Vardhman Textiles starts hedging cotton on MCX H&M to push up retail growth in India Duke Fashions bags Walmart India’s ‘The Best Supplier’ award 2nd Global Textile Technology & Engineering Show

11 11 12 12 12 13 14 14 15 15 16 16 17 17 17 18 19 20 20 21 22 22 22 24 24 25 26 26 26

Pakistani denims hope to make a mark Pakistan to explore South America market China: Retailers choose sides in Alibaba-Tencent battle China: JD.com announces financing pacts for JD Logistics Chinese textile firm buys luxury Bally brand China: Luthai Textile partners with Invista China: Fosun group acquires Lanvin oldest fashion ... China on track for ‘high-quality development’ in 2018 Vietnam: Australian tariff to boost exports Vietnam: Textile exports to China growing Vietnam: Viet Tien garment firm set export target Bangladesh: Automation threatens jobs for garment workers Bangladesh: Govt to set to frame policy for apparel ... Bangladesh: Demand for MMF increasing among RMG makers Bangladesh: Apparel products losing its export .... Bangladesh: Shasha Denims plan to buy 40% stakes .... Sri Lanka: Textile export to experience highest .... Nepal: Chinese Belt and Road Initiative

30 30 32 32 33 33 34 34 36 36 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 42

Loepfe Brothers unveil OffColor detection in yarn clearers Cambodia: Assets in garment units sold off to pay workers

43 43

ASIA

WORLD

Printed, Published, Edited and Owned by Ramesh Kumar Tripathi From 2943/13, 2nd Floor, Ranjeet Nagar, New Delhi-8, India. Ph: 011-25891475, 25894740 Fax: 011-25892138 E-mail: communionadvt@gmail.com, sales@communiononline.com Printed at Mystical Graphics, A-26 Phase-II, Naraina Indusrial Area, New Delhi, India.

VOLUME 11 | ISSUE 3 H&M’s Initiatives for use of nylon waste from oceans, landfills 49 Levi Strauss develops denim finishing 50 4.0 technology brings new opportunities for the fashion industry 50 Guess reduces wood-based fabrics 51 G-Star RAW launches the world’s most sustainable denim 52 Gap focuses on growth of brands 52 VF Corp adopts circular economy 52 California to introduce microfiber warning ..... 53 C&A committed to continue sourcing eco-friendly cotton 53 Lectra set to digitise apparel manufacturing process 54 Lenzing Enters New Phase with Launch Of TENCEL™ 62 Durst Launches P5 Next-Generation Technology Platform 64 Stoll, Myant Collaborate On Smart Textiles 64 HeiQ technology in drag-reduced bob suits 66 Reebok introduces new Fast Flexweave running shoe 67 Stäubli debuts automatic drawing-in machine in Turkey 68 Sensing fabrics to prevent failures in vital infrastructure 68 New C8 free oil repellent coating 70 Loepfe introduces new quality control feature 70 Suominen initiates new growth investment 71 New anti-counterfeiting sewing thread platform 72 New branding identity for Lectra 72 Rethinking textiles with 3D printing 73 Hugotag achieves zero defects with Monforts stenter 74 FESPA launches new fashion textile feature 75 Roica presents premium stretch sports innovations 76 Nearly 50 Percent of Brands Admit They’re Being Creepy 78 Epson Launches New Digital Fabric ..... 78 French elastics specialist targets new markets 78

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EDITORIAL

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NDA, in its election manifesto, had promised to create 250 million jobs over the next 10 years as part of an economic development programme but Government is miserably fail on this front in 4 years of its regime. Now they are claiming aperson selling pakoda is possible because of Government policies. Government is focusing towards big industries for job creation which in my view may not be right approach. India is one of the country where most of the peoples are either unskilled or semi skilled with some primary education. It is difficult to engage such workforce in big industries. To provide job to this workforce, textile is a most appropriate sector. This sector contributed about 14% to industrial production, 4% to the country’s GDP and 13% to the country’s export earnings in 2016. Presently, this industry em ploys about 40 million workers directly and 60 million indirectly. A large portion of this workforce consisting unskilled and semi-skilled workforce. In my opinion, Government should look seriously towards textile sector for employment generation. This sector has immense capacity for employment generation. We don’t need to go anywhere for raw material and expertise. Only thing we need some favourable policies through which we could strengthen our position in the global market. We should make effort to realise the Government about strength of textile industry and try to convince them that peace meal solution will not work instead a comprehensive textile policy is urgently required at this stage.

editor COMMUNION MARCH 2018 10

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India T

TK Sengupta new president of TAI for 2017-19

K Sengupta has been announced as the president of The Textile Association (India) (TAI) in the election of new office bearers for the term 2017-19. The election was held in Nagpur a month ago. Sengupta was the vice president of TAI, Mumbai unit during the period 2015-17 and again unanimously re-elected as vice president for second term of 2017-2019. Sengupta who has completed engineering in textiles from Delhi University, has 46 years of experience in textiles and manmade fibre industries in the field of marketing, sales, business and strategic planning, export marketing, resource

planning, MIS, consultancy and higher management activities. He has worked with reputed companies like Reliance Industries Ltd, Indorama Synthetics Ltd and Vardhman Spinning & General Mills Ltd among others. TAI is the foremost largest textile professional body of India established in the year 1939; currently the association has strong member strength of over 28,000 with 26 affiliated units spread throughout the length and breadth of the country. It has been providing guidance and services of various kinds to the textile industry over the last 77 years.

Haryana govt approves new policy

een on making Haryana a global hub of textile manufacturing and a preferred investment destination, the state government has approved Textile Policy, 2018 to incentivise setting up of new units and ensure growth and modernisation of the existing textile industry in the state. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The policy is packed with fiscal incentives and contains provisions for infrastructure augmentation, setting up of textile parks, promotion TM

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of Khadi industry and facilities for skill training. It aims at generating 50,000 new jobs by attracting investment in the textile sector to the tune of Rs 5,000 crore,â&#x20AC;? Industries and Commerce Minister VipulGoel said after the state Cabinet meeting here. He said the policy has been formulated with an eye on the cotton belt of Haryana. The state is one of the leading cotton producers in the country with Sirsa, Fatehabad, Bhiwani, >>P12

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INDIA... >>P11 Hisar and Jind being the main cotton producing districts. The minister said that the policy proposes capital investment subsidy of 10 per cent subject to maximum of Rs 20 lakh for the eligible capital investment for Individual Textile Units set-up in Textile Parks in A & B category blocks. For bringing in women entrepreneurship in Haryana, the policy proposes 15 per cent capital subsidy subject to maximum of Rs 25 lakh. It aims to boost

latest home for Ted’s menswear, womenswear and accessory collections. Created using traditional and locally-sourced Indian textiles and embellishment, this is thoroughly contemporary take on Ted’s travels. With the perfect blend of attention to detail, beautiful designs and high quality fabrics, Ted mixes traditional and contemporary influences with an irreverent sense of humour and a quintessential British attitude.

“Ted Baker is an iconic brand and we are excited to bring it to our Indian consumers, who have a personal sense of style and appreciate good design, with a perfect blend of British sophistication. We are happy to launch Ted Baker in India. The brand will cater to both men and women in the luxury space. Ted lovers can now look forward to the launch of its first store in New Delhi,” Amit Pande, brand head, Ted Baker, said.

Lower cotton prices to support textile sector profitability: Ind-Ra

ower cotton prices and demand recovery are expected to support textile sector profitability, a report said. “We have maintained a stable outlook for cotton textiles and synthetics for FY19. This is in view of expected margin expansion due to softening in cotton prices, improved consumer spending outlook in key user countries and the low base effect of FY18,” according to India Ratings and Research (Ind-Ra). The report noted that the slowdown in domestic demand for textiles due to demonetisation and the goods and services tax (GST) implementation, seems to have bottomed out in the second half of

state government will facilitate setting up of apparel parks exclusively for apparel manufacturing units in Mewat district. An Integrated Textile Park in Hisar District and a Textile Park exclusively for Dyers and Processors in Faridabad District shall also be assisted by the State government. The policy also envisages collaboration with premier engineering and research institutes such as IIT Delhi to promote entrepreneurship and new product development in textiles including technical textiles.

Ted Baker marks entry in India with ABFRL

ed Baker, world-renowned for its stylish and sophisticated menswear, womenswear, accessories, has began a new chapter, as it expands in India. Ted Baker’s entry into India is a joint venture with Aditya Birla Fashion & Retail Ltd (ABFRL). The brand is the latest addition to ABFRL’s international brand portfolio, which began a decade ago with The Collective. Situated in New Delhi, the store will be the

textile exports by Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 20 per cent during the policy period.Goel said to support development of backward regions, the policy proposes support to individual textile units set up within and even outside textile parks in C & D category blocks.The policy also proposes 25 per cent capital investment subsidy at the rate of 25 per cent maximum up to Rs 50 crore on the eligible capital investment specially to promote anchor units.Goel said that under the policy, the

the fiscal. Better margins, modest reduction in working capital requirements and subdued capex in FY19 will improve the overall credit profile, Ind-Ra said. The report noted that the textile sector outlook is constrained by the possible impact of pink bollworm on cotton output and prices, and increasing crude prices on synthetics. Increasing crude price is likely to narrow the spread between cotton and synthetic yarns, thereby moderating the pace of switch to synthetics from cotton textiles. Operating margins of synthetics manufacturers may witness volatile margins due to crude price fluctuations and delays in

passing on cost inflation. However, these challenges may be countered by improved demand growth on a year-on-year basis and operating leverage benefits, Ind-Ra said. A higher-than-expected rise in cotton acreage at 19 per cent and a consequent 11 per cent increase in crop production in FY17-FY18 are likely to moderate cotton prices in FY19, despite increase in prices in the last few months due to the pink bollworm issue. The global stock-to-use ratio for cotton, excluding China, increased to 56 per cent in FY18 from 47 per cent in FY17, although Chinese inventory declined 17 per cent year on year.

facility which will get commissioned by 2021,” said Dilip Gaur, managing director of Grasim Industries. Coupled with the existing expansion and debottlenecking plan of Rs 802 crore, the total capacity for VSF will be increased by 58% to 788 KTPA from the current 498 KTPA, he said. Grasim is the only producer of the fibre in the country. The company already has

expansion projects worth Rs 2,900 crore in process for both its VSF and chemicals businesses, taking the total spend on expanding capacities to more than Rs 6,400 crore. The money will be spent over the next two and a half years. “We have a strong balance sheet,” said Sushil Agarwal, group CFO of Grasim Industries.

Grasim earmarks Rs 3,500 crore to boost VSF capacity

ditya Birla Group-owned Grasim Industries, which has businesses as diverse as telecom, cement, and textiles, would spend more than Rs 3,500 crore on expanding the output of viscose staple fibre (VSF) that finds key use in making textiles. “The board has approved a brownfield expansion of Rs 3,523 crore at the Vilayat

COMMUNION MARCH 2018 12

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Hike in ROSL funds to boost textile export

nitiatives like 39 per cent increase in allocation for remission of state levies ( ROSL ) in the Budget would help boost textile export, Textile Minister SmritiIrani said. The Budget allocation for ROSL scheme has been raised to toRs 2,163.85 crore from Rs 1,555 crore in 2017-18. Allocations under the technology upgradation fund scheme (TUFS) have also been increased by 15 per cent in the Budget, she said. Irani said the Rs 6,000-crore package announced for apparel sector last year, and 39 per cent increase in ROSL would help push the exports. The largest component of the package was ROSL to offset indirect taxes levied by states that were embedded in exports. ROSL was over and above the duty drawbacks and other incentives like Merchandise Exports from India Scheme. The minister added that in the past one year, the government has given the industry

close to Rs 1,800 crore as a part of this package and a payment of Rs 300 crore is in the pipeline for this financial year. She also said apparel and garment manufacturing centres in all northeastern states are operational except in Sikkim, where it is under construction. In 2014, Prime Minister Narendra Modi announced an initiative for construction of these centres in all northeast states under North East Region Textile Promotion Scheme. “At a cost of Rs 127 crore, these garment manufacturing centres are now functional,” she said adding the units have employed locals for apparel manufacturing. “We want to encourage local population into formal employment. One of the biggest benefits of this package has been that we have seen 1.8 lakh garment workers now formally becoming a part of EPFO in the past one year. That means more and more

formalisation is happening,” Irani added. Further, the minister said reclassification of MSME and reduction of corporate tax by 5 per cent in the Budget will help the sector expand its manufacturing and encourage employability. Meanwhile, the ministry in a statement said that 21 ready-made garment manufacturing units are fully operational in Assam, Arunachal Pradesh, Manipur, Meghalaya, Nagaland, Mizoram and Tripura. “Rs 690 crore has been utilised for the development of sericulture in the region,” it said adding three factories have become fully operational in the seven states in a “record time of 2 years”. Each factory employs around 1,200 people, mainly women. The factories are owned by local entrepreneurs, and agencies like Clothing Manufacturers Association of India and Arvind Mills are placing orders with these units, it added.

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Fall in exports for the Home Textile segment: CRISIL

perating profit margins of home textiles exporters is seen falling 300 basis points (bps) from this fiscal following pressure on export realisations stemming from a shift in the dynamics of US retail, and a reduction in incentives after the implementation of the Goods and Services Tax (GST).Many brick-and-mortal retailers in the US have pruned inventories and downsized stores to offset profitability pressures caused by the e-tail boomThis fiscal, the landscape is undergoing a sea-change. Many brick-and-mortal retailers in the US have pruned inventories and downsized stores to offset profitability pressures caused by the e-tail boom. In order to cushion the consequent fall in utilisation levels, Indian exporters have been enhancing their share of the business with US eretailers, but at lower realisations.Domestic home textile firms have had a good run since fiscal 2012, with India’s share of US imports of cotton bed sheets and terry towels increasing from 34 percent to about 40 percent in fiscal 2017 because of cost competitiveness compared with peers in China and Pakistan.US accounts for a third of global home textiles market worth US $16 billion. Almost 47 percent of India’s home textile exports of US $5.3 billion last fiscal was to the US.Additionally, competitiveness continues to be impacted in Europe – an equally large consumer of home textiles as the US – with levies up to 10 percent duty on Indian products compared with free access to Bangladesh and Pakistan firms. Suppliers from Pakistan also benefit from better export incentives provided by their

government. Domestic home textile firms, on the other hand, have been hit by the lowering of Duty Drawback Rate and Rebate of State Levies to 2 percent from 7.5 percent and 3.9 percent, respectively, following the implementation of GST in July 2017. However, recently, partial relief was provided whereby incentives under the Merchandise Exports from India Scheme (MEIS) was increased from 2 percent to 4 percent.AnujSethi, Senior Director, CRISIL Ratings said, “Our study of 63 firms (including 59 rated by CRISIL), which account for 70 percent of India’s home textiles exports, indicates that despite relief under MEIS this fiscal, average export incentives as a percentage of revenues will be lower by at least 200 bps,”That, along with pricing pressure, is expected to crunch EBITDA (earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortisation), or operating margins to 16 percent starting fiscal 2018 from 19 percent last fiscal. However, demand for Indian home textiles will continue to grow at 8 percent seen in the recent past, helped by exports to traditional markets and better penetration in non-traditional markets such as Asia, Australia, South America and Canada.RajeswariKarthigeyan, Associate Director, CRISIL Ratings said, “Given the still healthy demand, CRISIL expects the 63 firms to spend as much as Rs 3,700 crore to expand capacities in fiscals 2018 and 2019. That would be significant considering that Rs 4,600 crore has already been spent in the previous two fiscals.”

Italian kidswear brand Monnalisa to enter Indian market

wedish fashion retailer Hennes&Mauritz (H&M) is planning to have an online presence in the country. According to a PTI report: The brand, which is entering India through a franchise route, plans to open its first store by September this year.“Monnalisa plans to open seven stores in India in top metro cities in the next five years. Monnalisa has inked a pan-India contract with expansion plans in Delhi-NCR, Mumbai, Bangalore, and Kolkata with FranGlobal with total deal size of more than Euro 4 million,” Venus Barak, CEO, FranGlobal. FranGlobal is representing the brand and have appointed PDM University as the master franchisee for Monnalisa in India. The products will be fully imported and sold in India

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“We plan to open first Monnalisa store in Delhi by September this year. Euro 4 million investment will go in setting up stores, inventory and marketing of the brand,” Chitresh Lather, CEO, PDM University was quoted by PTI as saying.This is the second attempt of Monnalisa to make inroads in the Indian market. In 2006, it had signed a licence agreement with an Indian company, but the deal did not go through.Monnalisa is spread across 65 countries and is a leader company in the childrenwear high market segment. It competes with Armani Jr., Burberry etc. They have products that caters infants to teenagers for both boys and girls with average ticket size of Rs 8000-10,000.

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H&M India to make online foray later this year

wedish fashion retailer Hennes&Mauritz (H&M) is planning to have an online presence in the country this year. According to a PTI report: The multinational retail giant nets around 12 percent of global sales volume from online now. “We plan to launch our online store this year,” Janne Einola, Country Manager, H&M India was quoted by PTI as saying, without giving a timeline. Deliveries would be undertaken by a third-party logistics partner, he said. “As of now we will not be integrating our physical stores with online operations, but we will

evaluate the business as it goes along,” he was further quoted by PTI as saying. The company will not tie up with any of the online marketplaces, and will go solo for online sales, Einola said. While the H&M India country manager didn’t put a number to the online sales expectations from here, he said “it’s a market with good potential”. H&M India had posted about twofold spike in sales at over Rs 955 crore for the fiscal to November 2017, making India one of its fastest growing markets. Its sales stood around Rs 490 crore in 2016. But India does

not feature among the top 10 markets for the company that is led by Germany, the US and Britain.On the physical stores front, it is planning to open two more stores in the Mumbai metropolitan region this month, and one more in Mysore later this year. “Currently, we have 29 stores, including the two new ones in Mumbai, and we will add one more in Mysore. We have been adding one store a month since we began operations a little over two years ago,” Einolasaid, adding 75 percent of its stores are present in large metros, but going forward it plans to focus on smaller cities as well.

UP Khadi products now available on Amazon India

hadi items made in Uttar Pradesh are now available on e-commerce portal Amazon India, after the state government signed an MoU in this regard with the company, an official said. The memorandum of understanding (MoU) was signed by Avinash Krishna Singh, the

Chief Executive Officer of the UP KhadiVikas Board, and Director and General Manager – Seller Services, Amazon India, Gopal Pillai in the state capital. Briefing the media on the outreach to a ‘waiting, willing global market’, Navneet Sehgal, Principal Secretary – UP Khadi and

Village Industries, said that Khadi products from the state would be available on Amazon under the brand name of ‘UP Khadi’.By signing the MoU, Uttar Pradesh becomes the first state in the country to have entered into an agreement with Amazon to market and sell >>P16

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India to get standardised clothing size chart by 2021

n a first, India will have its own size chart for ready-to-wear clothes. The National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), New Delhi under the Union ministry of textiles will undertake an extensive research study to develop a comprehensive size chart for the ready-to-wear garment industry based on body measurements of the Indian population. The sizing chart, expected to be ready by 2021, will be prepared from the anthropometric data collected from a sample population in the age group of 15–65 years. This database of measurements will then culminate in a standardised size chart truly representative of the population, which can be adopted by the entire apparel industry. Using 3D whole body scanners, measurements of 25,000 males and females from six cities located in different regions of the country namely Kolkata, Mumbai, New Delhi, Hyderabad, Bengaluru and Shillong will be compiled, NIFT officials said in New Delh. Funded by the Union ministry of textiles, this Rs 30 crore project sanctioned under the Research and Development Scheme will develop Indian size charts based on body measurements of the Indian population for better fitting of ready-to-wear garments. The government has promised assistance of Rs21 crore, while NIFT will contribute Rs9.1 crore from its own sources. The mapping exercise is likely to take two years.

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NIFT is currently in talks with government-approved cloud service providers to ensure that all the data captured is safe and secure. Screening of people for data will not be like a photograph, but an ‘avatar’. It will come out like a dotted outline, officials said. NIFT will also conduct awareness programmes to sensitise people and make them aware about the research project. Since there is no comprehensive size chart for the Indian population, Indians purchase clothes mostly based on the UK size chart. Till date, 14 countries have successfully completed their respective national sizing surveys. These are the US, UK, France, Spain, Germany, Canada, Mexico, Sweden, Italy, the Netherlands, Thailand, South Korea, China and Australia.

UP govt signs 29 MoUs in textile industry

t the recently concluded Uttar Pradesh Investors Summit, the state government signed 29 memorandum of understanding (MoUs) in the textile segment, likely to generate over 5 lakh employment opportunities. The implementation of the MoUs worth Rs 7,436 crore will boost the sales of textile items while creating opportunities for the local weavers and artisans. “A four-member committee under the textile commissioner has been formed, so as to maintain a constant touch with the investors and ensure that their problems are resolved,” said a news agency quoting UP minister for handloom and textile Satyadeo Pachauri The committee will include deputy director of >>P17

>>P15 Khadi products. With the MoU, seven Khadi-producing institutions in the state have on-boarded the platform and 40 others are in the pipeline and currently in the process of hitching onto the site, officials said. Minister for Khadi and Village Industries Satyadev Pachauri said that the state government was committed to making Khadi grow exponentially, as was the dream of Mahatma Gandhi and also envisioned by Prime Minister Narendra Modi. Through the agreement, he added, the state government had made a successful foray into the larger domestic and global market. “We have also given solar charkhas the industry status and this will enable people spinning Khadi to produce more and earn more while also conserving energy,” he added. Pillai in his address said that Amazon started with 100 elders in 2013 in India and now had three lakh-plus sellers and still counting. The signing of the MoU, he said, was to empower, educate and enable the small-time artisans to uplift their living as well as to provide them a platform to sell their products to the larger global market through the portal.

...INDIA

Govt plans yarn depot with UP

ndian textiles minister SmritiIrani recently announced a proposal to jointly set up a yarn depot with the Uttar Pradesh (UP) government to give a further boost to the textile sector in the state, which garnered proposals worth Rs 7,000 crore in the run-up to the two day investors’ summit that concluded in

Pachauri to start discussions with industrialists to restart closed knitwear mills. Many UP industrialists want to return to the state after the new textiles policy was announced. Problems faced by mills in Kanpur, primarily due to trade unions, are over now, Pachauri said.

fiscal incentives. The agreements were signed during the Magnetic Maharashtra investors summit by JK Investors (Bombay) Ltd, which owns the group. The project would commence in fiscal 2018-19. The first agreement is for a proposed investment of Rs 50 crore to set up the

school project and sport complex, while the second one is of Rs 375 crore for setting up a residential complex and commercial amenities with 2,000 houses. The group recently inaugurated a new greenfield linen manufacturing facility in the new textile park in NandgaonPeth under its subsidiary Raymond Luxury Cottons Ltd.

Raymond Group to invest Rs425 crore in Maharashtra

ndia’s Raymond Group recently signed agreements worth Rs 425 crore with the government of Maharashtra to set up residential and sports complexes, commercial amenities and schools in NandgaonPeth in Amravati. As per the agreements, the state will facilitate necessary permissions, registrations, approvals, clearances and

state capital Lucknow . As subsidies hardly reached weavers, they can directly purchase yarn at subsidised rates at the depot, a top Indian newspaper quoted the minister as telling the summit. She also urged UP industry minister Satish Mahana and textile minister Satyadeo

e-retail market may see 250% growth in 3 yrs: Crisil

ndia’s e-retail market may rise by 250 per cent in the next three years as players shift from discounts to consolidation, geographical

diversification, business realignment and enhancing customer loyalty, says a . The market is 1.5 per cent (Rs 70,000 crore) of the overall Rs 49-trillion Indian retail sector, implying <<P16 enormous growth potential. ptextile directorate, Kanpur and managing director of the Uttar Pradesh State Industrial The online shopping segment has trebled over the past three fiscals due to rising Internet Development Corporation. The committee penetration, awareness of online shopping as will look into that the investors benefit from well as alluring deals and discounts. “After the the facilities as per the recently announced textile policy of UP, said Pachauri adding that initial phase where e-retailers focused only on the state government has also assured of the gaining market share through discounts, the next phase will be characterised by consolidanecessary assistance to the investors. tion, geographical diversification, business Under the policy special incentives, the government will assist traders in finance and realignment, as well as enhancing customer stickiness,” a news agency reported quoting marketing. There is also a provision to boost the Crisil report. reeling units, commonly used in silk industry. A frenzied search for unicorns in the past

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couple of years ended badly for many investors, who saw their equity wiped out and resulted in about 26 prominent start-ups shutting shops in the past two years. The company’s analysis of 11 major e-retail firms showed that around 45 per cent of the over Rs 40,000 crore invested between fiscals 2013-14 and 2015-16 was wiped off due to losses at e- retailers. The funding trend indicates cautious and focused investing with an eye on profitability, the report said. As the online customer base in the country is largely concentrated in major cities, faster growth will slow down in these regions as it is already highly penetrated and players would need to move into small towns to sustain growth, the report added.

17 MARCH 2018 COMMUNION

INDIA...

Maharashtra, Hyosung Group sign MoU for spandex unit

aharashtra chief minister DevendraFadnavis recently signed a memorandum of understanding with South Korean spandex manufacturer Hyosung Corporation for allocating 100 acres of land to the latter to develop the first mega project on the Delhi-Mumbai Industrial Corridor (DMIC). This will be the first largest unit at the DMIC employing more than 1,000 people. Hyosung group chairman Cho Hyun-Joon announced an investment of Rs 3,000 crore

in the Aurangabad Industrial City (AURIC) at the three-day “Magnetic Maharashtra: Convergence 2018” investor summit event in Mumbai recently, according to media reports from Mumbai. The group’s factory, whose construction is expected to begin in March this year, will manufacture spandex. Production will commence in May 2019. Hyosung is committed to India’s grand mission, said Cho. During Maharashtra chief minister Deven-

draFadnavis’s meeting with Hyosung president H S Cho during his visit to South Korea in September last year, the company had shown interest in investing in spandex manufacturing for the textile sector in the state. The market size for spandex yarn in India is projected to be over 1,500 metric tonnes this year and the growth of Indian spandex market has been over 10 per cent between 2014 and 2015.

occasions. “The relationship with Jabong represents a powerful opportunity for Splash to expand its presence across India. E-commerce is a key channel that will help us increase our presence to our target audience. We are excited about our launch with Jabong and our confident that it will be a very fruitful for both of us,” Raza Beig, CEO – Splash, Iconic and Landmark International, fashion director – Landmark Group said. “As a brand, Jabong carries a bold and youthful essence. With Splash now being a part of Jabong, the essence only gets

stronger. The objective is to provide an elaborate portfolio of premium international brands for our fashion conscious customers,” Kalyan Kumar, chief merchandising officer- Jabong, said. Splash has successfully positioned itself as a young and fashion-forward brand with its styles, textures, patterns, and designs standing as a strong testimony. It has created some of the biggest and most popular brand properties and events like Splash Calendar and Splash Fashion Show which have now become part of the social calendar of the region.

Average employment per project was 7.66 people, with an average cost of Rs 94,855 for generating unit employment and an average cost per project of Rs 726,760, an MDI study found after verifying 10,044 PMEGP units — five per cent of the total units across the country — and collecting data from the beneficiaries, stakeholders and external sources.

The maximum and minimum costs for generating unit employment were Rs 265,412 (Nagaland) and Rs 25,070 (Tamil Nadu), a news agency report said citing the report. Due to Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s affection for khadi, KVIC will leave no stone unturned to follow and implement his vision, chairman Vinai Kumar Saxena said.

Fashion brand Splash launches on Jabong

andmark group brand Splash has been launched on Jabong, India’s leading online fashion destination. To mark the launch, Splash will feature the Spring Fabulous collection, with over 197 styles across both men and women categories. The theme for the Spring Fabulous collection is inspired by the 80s with colourful stripes playing a key influence. The collection will consist of high octane colors of orange, lime and hot pink, acting as hues to slip into the summer mode. The mood of the collection is feminine and strong, making it a befitting choice across all

Over 100% subsidy target in 2016-17

ndia’s Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) has achieved more than cent per cent target of subsidy allotted for implementation of Prime Minister Employment Generation Program (PMEGP), says the Management Development Institute (MDI) in Gurgaon. The utilisation of the same was less than half in 2008-09, but reached 100.37 per cent in 2016-17.

Bangladesh: Japan’s JICA promoting energy-saving devices

he Japan International Cooperation Agency (JICA) is promoting use of energy-saving equipment in Bangladesh through a programme, which allows companies that buy specified equipment to get low-interest loans at around 4 per cent compared to market rates of 9-15 per cent. Three such deals were signed in February and about ten such deals are being discussed. Orders

COMMUNION MARCH 2018 18

worth over $47.1 million are likely, media energy-saving devices to save rising reports said citing JICA. cost of fossil fuel Bangladeshi companies have recently imports decided to buy spinning machines from Toyota Industries, similar .com 1 377 rpvtltd 371 u devices from Murata Machinery 944 stirup /0 1 e 77 hlac 717 443 upertec and some 3,000 sewing and b09 s: M www.s il t a De om For ces.c machines from Juki, according to to compete with la ch erte .sup www JICA. The country is shifting to rivals Vietnam and India.

...INDIA

Positive impact of GST on businesses’ logistics: FICCI

he goods and services tax (GST) has had a positive impact on the logistics of businesses, says a Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FICCI) survey. More than three-fifths of the respondents reported better inter-state transportation of goods and over half of them said goods vehicles are no longer stopped and checked at state borders. Around three-fifths of the respondents cited reduction in transportation time after GST was implemented. The survey was done between November 2017 to January this year covering micro, small and medium enterprises and large companies. The industry highlighted glitches in the GST network portal, cumbersome procedures and documentation and cost of compliance as the major areas of concern

that need to be addressed. Ineffective volume handling capacity of the portal, delayed reflection of updated data and payments, delays in process of input credit set offs, inability to upload heavy files of certain formats and lack of provision to modify or revise errors were identified as the major challenges to businesses. The respondents suggested a major revamp of the portal to make it more efficient. Monthly filing of GST return was seen as cumbersome. Around 78 per cent of the respondents suggested that the periodicity of return filings for taxpayers with aggregate turnover above Rs 1.5 crore should be changed from monthly to quarterly. For services providers, multiplicity of registrations was a concern as a separate registration is now required with every

state where service is being provided. Respondents to the survey emphasised that filing of returns be made simpler. Small businesses felt that e-way bill need not be introduced as it was only an additional compliance requirement as all details of sale and purchase were readily available on the portal. It was suggested that the minimum limit for requirement be increased to 50 kms and there be no requirement of e-way bill for movement of goods within the city limits. Businesses, especially exporters faced difficulty to claim refunds. Most respondents also stated that there is a need for greater clarification from the government on the anti-profiteering provisions to ensure that they do not lead to undue harassment.

facturing and distribution networks are often hard to spot.“We wrote to brands because these workers are part of their supply chain and are being treated unfairly,” said JayaramKottagarahalliRamaiah, an adviser at GATWU, which has an active membership of more than 5,000 workers in Karnataka. “Workers tried to talk with management in recent months, wore black bands in protest and some went on a hunger strike, but to no avail,” he said. California-based Avery Dennison — which is one of the world’s largest suppliers of labels, graphic tags and price tickets to the apparel

industry — has denied all allegations. In a complaint to Avery Dennison’s management, the global brands and the state labor department, the union said many of the workers had been employed on contract for at least five years and should have been made permanent staff. Calling the terminations illegal, GATWU accused the company of not paying minimum wages and benefits, and of threatening to close the factory should contract workers unionize. Under Indian law, companies may hire contract workers for jobs >>P20

Textile union appeals to global brands over fair wages, jobs

n Indian trade union has asked 130 global garment brands for help in a dispute with a major label supplier in a rare move by workers that campaigners said spotlights an unmapped part of the supply chain.The Garment and Textile Workers Union (GATWU) said a demand for fair wages and the reinstatement of more than 50 employees dismissed in recent months from Avery Dennison’s factory in southern Karnataka state was from the “invisible worker.”Unions and activists say as companies volunteer to map their supply chains, labor violations at the end of complex manu-

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INDIA... <<P20 that are not part of their “core work,” but must ensure payment of the minimum wage and access to benefits. Avery Dennison’s director of human resources for South Asia, Saurav Kumar, said engaging contract employees was both common practice and legal. Permanent jobs were offered to workers based on the company’s requirements. “Currently, a recruitment drive is going on ... Contract workers who have the experience of working on machines in Avery Dennison are being given preference over external candidates,” he said. The dispute is the latest in a series of rows between workers and management in India’s multibillion-dollar textile and garment industry that employs about 45 million workers. Campaigners have complained that a growing number of workers at suppliers have been suspended or dismissed within days of joining unions or attending union events. Brands have expressed concerns over accusations of discrimination against unionists, said Martin Buttle of the Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI), which brings together brands, unions, factory-owners and civil society groups. Avery Dennison is not an ETI member but does supply labels to many ETI members, including H&M, Gap and Inditex. “ETI members recognize that the human rights of workers, including their rights to freedom of association and collective bargaining, should be respected,” Buttle said. Avery Dennison had “agreed to keep them updated on their actions,” Buttle said. GowrishVenkategowda, 32, said Avery Dennison’s factory told him on Feb. 1 that his services as a data-entry operator earning 12,000 rupees ($187) a month were no longer needed. “Then they went and hired people on daily wages to do the job I have done for the last 14 years,” he said.

COMMUNION MARCH 2018 20

Indian apparel exports decline by 14% in Jan 2018

ndian apparel export in January this year witnessed decline by 14 percent in rupee and 8 percent in dollar terms compared with the year earlier month, as per latest official data. The sharp fall in the exports of cotton textile by 16 percent year-on-year, apparel by about 14 percent year-on-year and man-made textiles by 7 per cent yearon-year contributed to the sub-optimum performance. Between April and January of last financial year, apparel exports stood at Rs93,745 crore and for the same period this fiscal, it was Rs88,709 crore, a drop of 5%. The Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) were hoping to remain at $17 billion of total apparel exports this year, said a spokesperson of AEPC. Usually, orders are good between January and March. However, this year, exporters are cutting back on orders because of financial crunch, said the spokesperson. If a garment unit with Rs10 crore turnover has Rs1 crore locked up in pending refund arrears, it is a problem for exporters. Almost 80% of the benefit in the apparel package announced by the Centre in 2016 is towards ROSL. Almost 55 % of garment exporters had not received the ROSL (Rebate of State Levies) since last July and this amounted to almost ₹2,000 crore, the AEPC spokesperson added. Apparel is a labour-intensive sector and the ongoing issues are weakening it, said Raja Shanmugham, president, Tirupur Exporters’ Association. While the refunds from the Centre are pending, the industry continues to make the mandatory payments every month. This is crippling the industry. The international market is not bad. There is an internal competitiveness problem, added Sanjay K. Jain, chairman, Confederation of Indian Textile Industry, on the reason for drop in exports of not only garments but also other textile products. While the country’s exports are growing, decline in apparel and textile exports will

bring down the share of the sector in the export basket. The annual textile and clothing exports this year compared to last year will be a close call. It might be the same as last year. However, yarn and garments are going to be lower, Mr. Jain added. Expressing concern over the decline in exports, Jain stated that one of the key factors for decline in exports is embedded duties which are more than 5 percent and the same is not getting refunded at any stage. CITI has been knocking at every door from the PMO to the textile ministry for the immediate restoration of export incentives for cotton yarn which is the most vulnerable sector at this juncture as cotton yarn exports have decline by more than 26 percent from 2013-14 to 2016-17 despite adding over 3 million spindles and 62,000 rotors spinning capacity during this period. There was also a continuous rise in the imports of textile products post GST. The imports of textile yarn, fabric and made-ups has increased by 15 percent from Rs 8,592 crore in April to January 2017 to Rs 9,914 crore in the same period this year.

TSIIC proposes establishment of small and medium textile park

he Telangana State Industrial Infrastructure Corporation (TSIIC) has proposed establishment tof small and medium scale textile parks or clusters spread over 50-100 acre each to boost the state’s textile sector including the Micro Small and Medium Enterprises (MSMEs. The main focus of the parks would be to encourage reverse migration of weavers to their home state.TSIIC chairman Gyadari Balamallu during an interaction with textile industry management officials said that weavers >>P21

...INDIA

Tirupur textile manufacturing units to get classified under MSMEs

extile manufacturing units in Tirupur knitwear cluster to get classified under micro, small and medium enterprises (MSMEs) based on the annual turnover, and not on the investments made on plant and machinery. As per the new classification, the units with annual turnover less than Rs. 5 crore would be termed ‘micro enterprise’, the units with annual turnover of more than Rs. 5 crore and less than Rs. 75 crore would be put

under ‘small enterprise’ category, and the units with turnover between Rs. 75 crore and Rs. 250 crore would be classified as ‘medium enterprise’. They can now avail the government benefits extended for such units following the changes made in ‘classification criteria’ of industrial units. According to Tirupur Exporters and Manufacturers Association secretary G. R Senthivel, the new classification will trigger

growth and encourage ease of doing business. S. Dhananjayan, advisor to many textile bodies said that this is a significant step, which will now enable almost 98 % of the textile manufacturing units in Tirupur to get classified under MSMEs. The earlier criteria prevented unit having more than Rs. 10 crore capital investment on plant and machinery from being classified as MSME.

For Advertisement 2943/13, 2nd Floor, Ranjeet Nagar, Nr. South Patel Nagar, New Delhi-110008 Ph: +91-11-25891475/ 25892138/ 25894740 email: communionadvt@gmail.com www.communiononoline.com <<P20 Also during the meeting, the officials were park was consideration in Pendyala village along with other stakeholders including assured that the government is considering of Janagaon district. The mega textile park entrepreneurs in the recent past have allotting land for residential plots so that the would be expanded based on the demand migrated to other place. workers at these units can be housed in the from textile industries. Once the textile park becomes functional, it vicinity saving time. The state government is likely to provide would lead to an inward migration adding to The TSIIC Chairman also stated that a special subsidies and incentives for the units the economy of the region. proposal for setting up a small scale textile in these proposed parks.

21 MARCH 2018 COMMUNION

INDIA...

Weavers express Cotton imports set to rise as textile mills concern over prefer U.S. cotton fluctuating prices textile mills increasingly prefer to buy in pure silk thread Ascotton from the U.S. in larger quantities.

eavers express concern over fluctuation in pure silk thread price as it is affecting the industry. According to weavers, the shop owners reduce orders when the silk threads price increase as they get fewer customers when they price the saris higher. But business appears to be normal in silk sari shops at Chinthamaniyur, Semmandapatty and Panchukalipatty villages in Salem district. K Subramaniam, a weaver said that Karnataka holds the monopoly in ‘pure’ silk thread business and they fix the price for the entire country. They were finding it difficult to sustain the business due to the fluctuating prices. Six months ago, 1kg of pure silk thread was available in the market for Rs 2,500 to Rs 3,000, depending on its quality. Now it is ranging between Rs 5,000 and Rs 5,500. It will go up further after adding 5 percent GST. Similarly, one kilo of ‘jari’ (used on sari border) was available for Rs 700 four months ago; now it has crossed Rs 800. Along with the base price, we have to pay 18% GST, M Saravanan, another weaver, said. The weavers said that textile shop owners, both wholesalers and retailers, reduced the orders when thread prices increased. They could get good orders if the rates are stable or low. They are appealing to the central government to look into their grievance and save the industry. To promote Salem silk across the global, the weavers and shop owners want the state government to start an exclusive park in Salem for silk saris. The weavers also appeal to the central and state governments to get a special ‘logo’ for Salem pure silk saris. If they get a separate logo, their sales volume is likely will go up. COMMUNION MARCH 2018 22

According to trade and industry sources, cotton imports this season might surpass the official estimate of 17 lakh bales. Also, the units could get a 4 to 5% cost advantage, the sources added. Total imports during the last cotton season (2016-2017) were 30.94 lakh bales and the previous year it was 22.79 lakh bales. The total imports this season (October 2017 to September 2018) might cross 20 lakh bales, said Nishanth Asher, a partner with cotton trading firm RS Asher and Company. Mills in Andhra Pradesh, Gujarat, and Tamil Nadu are buying from the U.S. The total import this season is already more than 10 lakh bales and majority stock is from U.S., he added. J. Thulasidharan, president of the Indian Cotton Federation said that large quantity of cotton is available at discounted price from the U.S. for the current season — the reason why textile mills are booking cotton from the U.S. Though imported cotton is of slightly lower micronaire (one of the quality parameters of cotton) compared with the widely used domestic cotton (Shankar 6 variety), mills were opting for U.S. cotton as these were free of contamination and realisation would be better. The price of Shankar 6 variety was Rs. 39,800 a candy. Mr. Thulasidharan said that cotton arrivals had picked up in the domestic market by nearly 1.5 lakh bales a day. The prices might not decline or increase much this year. Since there was surplus production globally, cotton export from India this season was also not high. However, T.K. Radhakrishnan, president of Coimbatore Cotton Association, said that the total imports may not increase much. It depends on how Indian cotton prices move in the next two months. Domestic cotton production is estimated to be high this cotton season at 377 lakh bales.

Jharcraft signs MoU with Banka Silk

harkhand Silk Textile and Handicraft Development Corporation or Jharcraft signed MoU with Banka Silk, a private start up in Bihar to train the state’s tussar weavers tailor trendy clothes and help them find wider online and offline markets to get the fair value of products made by weavers, handicrafts and artists. The MoU was signed in the presence of Chief Minister Raghubar Das, Industry Director K Ravikumar and Founder of Banka Silk, Udayan Singh. During this, the Chief Minister said that there are 30 thousand weavers in the State. The company will give them training and information about material preparation as per the need of the market. For this, the company will send teams to train weavers in each district. The district administration will provide full support to the company. From time to time, bring famous designers to Jharkhand and share their experiences. Product will be produced as desired by the company. This will give the weavers, handicrafts and artists the fair value of their product. K Ravikumar said that according to the need of market, Banka Silk will provide training and the platform for online sale as well for finished products. These products will be available on all major online sites, including Amazon, Flipkart, Myntra. Along with this, the sale of these products will also be arranged in big retail chains. According to the MoU, Banka Silk will train Jharkhand’s weavers to cut and stitch silk garments according to market demands and market clothes online through platforms such as Amazon, Flipkart and Myntra and offline counters, said Jharcraft managing director ManjunathBhajantri Bhajantri said that many weavers cut and stitch clothes but would gain from more expertise and design sense. Many weavers don’t know tailoring but want to learn. They are hoping this value-add really boosts their income. They will get trendy designs too.

...INDIA

23 MARCH 2018 COMMUNION

INDIA...

India’s home textile exports share market to US remains dull

ndia’s market share in home textile exports to the US (sum of all products) remained flat YoY at 33% during the current year 2017. Ability to renegotiate product prices in the backdrop of the rising raw material prices and rupee appreciation will be the key monitorable. India’s market share (in dollar terms) in cotton sheets increased 1ppt YoY to 50% in CY17. India has been consistently gaining a 1ppt market share in cotton sheets each year since CY12. In Dec’17, India’s cotton sheet market share (dollar terms) came in at 50%, a decrease of 1ppt YoY. The CY16market share increased 1ppt YoY to 50%. This is the 6th consecutive year in which India witnessed 1ppt YoY increase in market share. In the same year, China’s market share decreased 2ppt YoY to 20%, while Pakistan’s share remained flat YoY at 16%. However, in the same year , India’s market share in the terry towels

segment declined significantly by 8ppt YOY to 30% in Dec’17. The CY17 also witnessed declined 1ppt YOY to 39% in dollar terms, led by multi-year low market share (sub 35%) reported for the past four months. In CY17, China’s market share increased 1ppt YoY to 24%, while Pakistan’s lost 1ppt YoY share to 21%. India’s CY17 exports of cotton sheets to the US (in dollar terms) increased 1.9% YoY to $717mn (vs. a 0.3% decline in world cotton sheet exports to the US), led by a 2.9% rise in volumes, partially offset by a 0.9% decline in realisation.According to Cotton Association of India, infestation of pink bollworm in major cotton producing regions of India has led to an increase in cotton prices since mid-Dec’17 (+5% to R111/kg) and 2% reduction in cotton crop estimate for 2017/18. In addition, rupee appreciation (6.4% YoY CY18’YTD) continues to remain an overhang.

Pashmina needs a major makeover to survive in Kashmir

ashmina, the heritage and identity of Kashmir, needs an urgent makeover in order to survive its roots. Kashmir’s handloom industry needs to adapt to changing times and not seek protection from the government. The government needs to bring in policies that favour the handloom industry and bring in renaissance. The industry on the other hand needs to be competent enough to stand on its own and carve a niche for itself. Pashmina goats in Ladakh produce the finest quality of raw Pashmina fibre in the world. It’s very rare at less than 0.1 per cent of the global supply. The fineness of Pashmina fibre from Changthang in Ladakh is usually between 12.5-14 microns while the best fibre from China is around 15 microns. In fact, the crème-de-la-crème of global luxury brands use 15-15.5 micron Chinese Cashmere. If planned genetic breeding of Pashmina goats in Ladakh to produce finer fibres does not take place, the tradition of Pashmina goat rearing in Ladakh will be extinct in a few years. The state on its own or through public private partnership model needs to have a Pashmina wool de-hairing plant in Kashmir. Secondly, in order to spin fine yarns on a machine, a synthetic –

generally nylon, has to be added to Pashmina in order to give it strength. This synthetic is later removed by an acid bath, which decreases the quality of the final product. The Charkha spun traditional Pashmina yarn is softer and more durable. However, here too it’s a matter of time before the Charkha is replaced, and rightly so. The latest R&D in the top Italian mills has produced fine Pashmina yarn without the addition of synthetic to counts as fine as 140/2nm, a number which any Pashmina trader will tell you is a shocking. The only way the Charkha will survive for the next few decades, is through genetic makeup based breeding programs and the fineness of the Pashmina goats in Ladakh is worked upon. The Pashmina goat in Ladakh (eastern Changthang) has an average fibre fineness of 12-14 microns – much finer that the best of what Chinese Pashmina goats can offer. Much R&D has not taken place in the west on such fine Pashmina fibres for they have limited access to it. Hence, if the fineness of the Pashmina goat fibre in Ladakh can be worked upon, resulting in lower microns, not only will the Charkha keep spinning in the valley, but Kashmiri >>P25

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...INDIA

Vardhman Textiles starts hedging cotton on MCX

ntegrated textile manufacturing company Vardhman Textiles, has started hedging cotton on Multi Commodity Exchange (MCX) to manage the volatility in cotton prices. Cotton is the basic raw material for the textile industry and its price is influenced by domestic and international situations, largely following increasing globalisation and international trade. <<P24 businessmen will be able to make better products than the Italians and the nomadic communities of Ladakh could make more money. For long term survival it is important to create products that machines cannot produce – be it through design or by quality – all energy should be focussed on that. Apart from the power looms, which produce lower quality fabrics than the charkha-spun handloom-woven ones, the focus must be on getting basic regulations in place such as

During October 2016 and September 2017, cotton prices reached a volatility of 19.25 per cent (annualised) and with physical market size of cotton projected at around Rs 68,000 crore, the cotton industry faced annualised price risk of over Rs 13.000 crore. Vardhman Textiles, part of the Vardhman Group, is one of the largest textile companies in India that manufactures cotton yarn strong textile labelling. One can sell a synthetic scarf labelled as 100 per cent Pashmina and it is legal. Textile labelling is mandatory in almost every country of the world and should be implemented as a must-have here too. Every product should be sold with a label that declares fibre content (100 per cent Pashmina, 50 per cent Pashmina, etc.) and whether it is handwoven or not. A positive step was taken by the state by establishing the Pashmina Testing and Quality Control Centre (PTQCC), ‘The Lab’.

and fabric for various applications — such as hand knitting yarn, machine knitting yarns, jerseys, sweaters, sarees, dress materials and carpets— with a capacity of over one million spindles, amounting for 4 per cent of the country’s yarn production, 1320 looms for weaving of fabrics and 180 million meter per annum of fabrics processing capacity. It is also >>P26 Another good initiative was getting the Geographical Indication or GI Mark, which prohibits anyone from using the term ‘Kashmir Pashmina’ unless it’s lab-tested and has a non-removable sticker on it placed by the PTQCC. Now, the government needs to advertise the GI sticker at the right channels pan-India, not on local Kashmiri radio, so that the major customer, i.e. the north Indian female knows about it and will look to buy a Charkha-spun handloomwoven Kashmir Pashmina shawl with a GI label.

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H&M to push up retail growth in India

wedish fashion retailer H&M is all set to spread its wings across the India and will be opening new stores in 30 months. The company had earlier announced its entry into the East Indian market with a store in Kolkata and will now move into the southern and northern markets with stores in Indore, Coimbatore and Amritsar with an accumulated space of over 75,000 sq ft. The company also looks to online and offline growth in India as it plans to expand its network with the launch of online portal in the

country. The company intends to continue the expansion at a similar pace and focus on fast fashion, at right prices, right locations. However, a lot depends on the real estate, like finding the right location and also, how fast the owners are able to deliver the property. H&M currently has 17 brick and mortar stores in India and more than 4,400 stores in 66 markets. The company will also launch its ecommerce website in India later this year.

Duke Fashions bags Walmart India’s ‘The Best Supplier’ award

ifestyle brand Duke Fashions, bagged the ‘The Best Supplier Award’ by Walmart India for excellence in sales, supply and coordination at the ‘Customer First Supplier Summit 2018’. Kuntal Raj Jain, Director Duke Fashions explains, “Duke Brand is one of the strongest partners of Walmart and a large part of the credit for this growth in the business goes to those people who have been very proactive on the business of Duke. Having No. 1 casual wear brand, we planned for an even larger growth in the business in the months ahead. With the support of the Duke Team we are confident of achieving this. Duke is a value for money brand and our mission is to make available the international designs and styles at highly

reasonable prices. We see it as our duty to provide our customers the inspiration they need to look and feel confident.” Duke Fashions, is the undisputed leader in a wide range of products including, T-shirts, jackets, sweaters, sweatshirts, tracksuits, thermals, jogging suits, shirts, denims and trousers, lowers, bermudas’, shorts, value packs, lounge wear, accessories and more for men, women and kids. Step Ahead is their premium lifestyle footwear collection for men. The company has an unbeatable marketing network comprising over 4,000 MBOs and more than 360 EBOs spread across India. The brand is also retailed through big chain stores and on online portals.

2nd Global Textile Technology & Engineering Show

he mega business convergent of the year for textile and textile engineering sector – GTTES 2019 is to be held from 1 – 3rd February 2019 in Mumbai, INDIA. Next edition GTTES is the growth catalyst and optimum business platform with more business leads, new customers offering best sourcing solution to India’s surging demand for Textile Machinery. Despite multiple platforms, GTTES 2019 in India is not to be missed, since today India is one of the world’s largest producers of Textiles and thus biggest market for textile machinery as well. The potential

size of Indian textile and apparel industry is expected to reach US $ 223 billion by 2021. This is a clear indication of the size of the market opportunity awaiting exhibitors at GTTES 2019. India and its neighbouring countries are main contributors to the increased demand of textile machinery and GTTES 2019 is opportunity to translate this demand to supply. India is one of the few countries in world which has production at every level of textile manufacturing viz. Fibre manufacturing, spinning, weaving, knitting, processing and garmenting. The most significant >>P27

<<P25 the second largest producer of sewing threads and the market leader in hand knitting yarn in the country.

Mrugank Paranjape, MD & CEO, MCX says they are glad to serve Vardhman as the platform of choice for their cotton price risk management obligations. Increased corporate participation has enhanced the quality and the process of information convergence in MCX cotton futures, thereby making it the hedging tool of choice for the cotton stakeholders in the country, besides transmitting signals to other major global markets in cotton trading. IJ Dhuria, Director-Raw Materials, Vardhman Textiles explains, MCX cotton futures contract has been gaining strength, providing them an ideal platform to hedge our inventory and raw material risks effectively. “It has always been our corporate endeavour to best serve the investor interests besides strengthening our competitiveness. I am happy to note that this risk management initiative of ours will help not only convey the same through our corporate governance report, but also provide for better compliance.”

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Asia Pakistan: Textile, clothing exports fall 10% in six years

delegation of the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) discussed several issues being faced by the fabric industry with Speaker National Assembly Sardar Ayaz Sadiq during a meeting held at the parliament house. A detailed briefing was given to the NA speaker by APTMA chairman Amir Fiyyaz Sheikh, APTMA president GoharIjaz and others about the current profile of the Pakistani textile industry and its standing in the international market. The delegation also presented various proposals aimed at increasing exports and thereby reducing trade deficit of the country. They

<<P26 change in the Indian textiles industry has been the advent of manmade Fibres (MMF). Except spinning, majority of the textile and apparel machinery demand of India is being catered by imports. Weaving sector needs an addition of around 82,000 looms. The capacity of knitting segment would need to be scaled up with an addition of 24,000 knitting machines by 2020. Processing capacity will also need to increase its present capacity, with additional 30,500 Mn. Meters of fabric processing capacity required by 2020. 1.20 Million additional sewing machines would be required to be installed in garment sector by 2020 to cater to the high export and domestic demand for apparel in India. The size of the textile machinery demand and the market opportunity is US $ 75 Bn in India. GTTES 2019 offers sourcing solution to this market demand in India by focusing on weaving, knitting, printing, garmenting, embroidery and technical textiles.

maintained that the textile industry in Punjab was virtually vanishing with most units closing down all operations due to the high energy cost. “Pakistan’s growth of textile and clothing exports declined by 10 per cent from the year 2011 to 2017,” GoharIjaz said. He argued that Pakistan had lost the competitiveness due to the regionally noncompetitive energy cost, saying gas to the textile industry in Bangladesh was being provided at a cost of $3 per mmbtu, in Veitnam at $4.2 and in India at $4.5. “But in Pakistan the product is being supplied at a cost of $11 per mmbtu,” he regretted. The APTMA delegation vowed that given the right kind of incentives, the textile industry would be able to play its due role in enhancing the country’s foreign exchange earnings. The delegation thanked the NA speaker for taking out time for this important meeting. SardarAyazSadiq said the textile industry was the backbone of the country’s economy. He assured the delegation that their issues would be soon discussed with the prime minster along with the relevant ministers.The meeting was also attended by adviser on finance, revenue and economic affairs Miftah Ismail, Federal Minister for Power SardarAwais Ahmed Khan Leghari, Minister of State for Commerce and Textile Haji Muhammad Akram Ansari, Minister of State for Finance and Economic Affairs Rana Muhammad Afzal Khan and federal secretaries.The ministers in attendance reiterated the government’s commitment to continue undertaking all possible measures, including policy initiatives, to create an enabling environment for the businesses to grow and making Pakistani products more competitive in the international market.

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Pakistan: PRGMEA hails EU decision to retain GSP+ status

elcoming the European Union decision to retain the generalized system of preferences (GSP) plus status for Pakistan, the Pakistan Readymade Garments Manufacturers and Exporters Association (PRGMEA) has stressed the need for an aggressive marketing plan, besides implementing the prime minister’s export package to maximise benefits from the decision. PRGMEA senior vice chairman Sheikh Luqman Amin said Pakistan almost failed to take full advantage of the GSP plus benefit granted in 2014, primarily due to the indifferent attitude of the government departments towards the country’s textile sector, according to Pakistani media reports. He said about half of the exporters are yet to receive refunds under the previous package of former Prime

Minister Nawaz Sharif as the central bank’s regional branches, which deal with more than 70 per cent of value-added textile exporters based in Punjab, are not ready to speedily process their cases. Another key challenge is the tax regime and custom clearance procedures. The industry is subjected to a higher duty on raw materials compared to other countries, which makes the final product more expensive. Due to cumbersome customs procedures and high duties on import of cotton yarn, artificial fibres and PTA, the garment industry has been unable to move from the existing cotton concentrated 80:20 mix to the globally-demanded 50:50 mix in its exports, he added.

Pakistan: Steps for organic cotton certification

rganic cotton cultivated in Pakistan, primarily in Balochistan, will be certified by global agencies from next year, it was announced in a recent meeting in Karachi organised by the World Wildlife Fund-Pakistan (WWF-P) and the Karachi Cotton Association (KCA). WWF-P will supervise the procedure with a certified verifying body inspecting the crop’s quality. The meeting discussed efforts under way to produce certified organic cotton in the country, including issues related to seed, production, demand and developing supply chain and linkages between growers and the textile industry, according to a report.

Organic cotton is grown without chemical fertilisers or pesticides. The seeds are not genetically modified and are kept clean from chemical impurities. WWF-P and Control Union Sri Lanka audited and inspected 500 cotton growers in Lasbela district in 2015, and a three-year organic cotton project was launched in 2016 in Lasbela, Sibi and Barkhan districts. This type of cotton is gaining popularity among health-conscious consumers and leading brands. Pakistan initially expects to produce around 50,000 bales of organic cotton and at present imports around 400,000 bales of organic cotton, mostly from India.

Pakistan: Textile associations want uniform energy pricing

akistan’s textile industry association representatives have unanimously decided to request the Punjab chief minister for uniform energy pricing and immediate liquidation of the stuck-up sales tax refunds. They met recently at the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) office in Lahore to discuss the viability of the textile industry in Punjab. The associations urged the provincial government to either secure a uniform energy price from the central government or bear the price differential, according to Pakistani media reports. The meeting was attended by representatives of the APMTA, Pakistan Readymade

Garments Manufaturers and Exporters Association (PRGMEA), Pakistan Hosiery Manufacturers and Exporters Assocation (PHMA), Pakistan Textile Exporters Assocation (PTEA), All Pakistan Textile Processing Mills Association (APTPMA), Council of Powerlooms Association and Pakistan Kintwear and Sweater Exporters Association (PAKSEA). Energy price disparity has turned the manufacturing units of spinning, weaving, dyeing, readymade garments, hosiery, towel and other sectors redundant and workers were being regularly laid off, according to the associations.

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Pakistani denims hope to make a mark

denim factory in Karachi is a bright spot in Pakistan’s textile industry. Power cuts, an expensive exchange rate and what they claim is government indifference - have all hit the manufacturers hard. Retailers looking towards cheaper and timelier suppliers in rival Bangladesh and Vietnam have led to the shutdown of hundreds of factories in recent years. But there’s a ray of hope as Artistic Denim Mills Ltd., which operates as a one-stop shop turning cotton into jeans, is doubling production and has built a new factory in Pakistan’s financial hub. Chief executive officer Faisal Ahmed, who is bullish and supplies retailers such as Zara and Next Plc, revealed, “We have been able to get many orders that used to go to Turkey earlier,” Toronto Star reported. The move shows a rare sign of promise in a stagnant industry that has been part of Pakistan’s economic backbone for decades. Because of the declining foreign reserves

ahead of elections in July, the Pakistan government is under pressure to revive its exports and avoid going to the International Monetary Fund. The textile industry accounts for more than half of all overseas shipments. According to World Bank data, Pakistan has lost market share with exports growing 27 per cent during 2005 to 2016, falling behind Bangladesh’s 276-per-cent increase and 445 per cent in Vietnam. India is the second-largest apparel exporter in South Asia after Bangladesh. Nonetheless, Pakistan still has the advantage of homegrown cotton that it can capitalize on, unlike Bangladesh and Vietnam. With Textile industrialists continually lobbying the government for subsidies and incentives, Prime Minister ShahidKhaqanAbbasi said in a recent interview that no further giveaways to the industry were likely before the elections. As per Ahmed Lakhani, analyst at Karachi-

based JS Global Capital Ltd, “Bangladesh and Vietnam governments are giving huge support to industries, unlike ours. The tax breaks are a good step, but we need to decrease electricity tariffs and keep a check on wages. I don’t think we will give all those incentives and compete globally.” Majyd Aziz, president of MHG Group of Companies in Karachi, noted, “About 95 per cent of Pakistani exporters’ mentality is waiting for a customer rather than going out and finding them. In the global world, you need integration and economies of scale, if you do that, you make money.” Artistic Denim is one of them. It has chased premium brands in Los Angeles that pay more for smaller deliveries to keep changing designs rather than bulk orders. The company said this will help revenues reach as much as eight billion rupees ($72 million U.S.) in year ending June with new garment production capacity increasing sales.

million registered during July-December last year as South American markets restrict market access of textile products to protect the domestic industry and as such perceive textile products of Pakistan a threat to their domestic industry. Mercosur, a trading bloc of South American countries, is the fifth largest economy in the world today with a GDP of $2.7 trillion. However, Pakistan’s trade volume with the South American region has hovered around

$600 million since FY2014-15, except FY2015-16 when the volume was recorded at $769.725 million. While there has been an overall increase in the country’s imports from South America from $305 million in 2014-15 to $222 million in the first half of the current year, Pakistan’s exports to the region have gradually declined from $296 million in 2014-15 to $239 million in the last fiscal year. Within the Mercusor, Pakistan’s >>P32

Pakistan to explore South America market

akistan to send its trade delegation comprising representatives from 22 companies of textile, and other sectors to Argentina, Chile and Peru from March 5 to 14, 2018, to explore the market and negotiate business deals. A single country trade exhibition is also scheduled by TDAP in Chile. Pakistan’s imports from South American countries continued to outweigh its exports to the region, with a deficit of over $103

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China: Retailers choose sides in Alibaba-Tencent battle

wo big Chinese firms— Alibaba Group Holding Ltd and Tencent Holdings Ltd — are reportedly on a retail investment spree in battle mood, resulting in merchants having to choose sides. The clash, which began in early 2017, has seen the two firms spending more than $10 billion on retail-focused deals, boosting their reach online and in brick-and-mortar stores. The two firms are competing in payment, logistics, social media and big data services. Retailers are worried that if they do not take sides, they may perish in future. Alibaba is the country’s biggest player in e-commerce player and its sister concern Ant Financial leads in mobile payments. Tencent is a big player in social media, digital payment and gaming and has a huge stake in the second-largest online retailer JD.com. French grocer Carrefour SA and US retail giant Walmart are allies of Tencent and JD.com. Tencent also has a stake in Yonghui Superstores Co Ltd, apparel retailers Vipshop Holdings Ltd and

Heilan Home, mall operator Wanda Commercial. Alibaba has invested heavily in Suning.com, Intime Retail, Sanjiang Shopping Club, Lianhua Supermarket, Wanda Film and home improvement store Easyhome. In China’s $13-trillion mobile payment market is a key battlefield for the two. Ant operates China’s top mobile payment platform, Alipay, while Tencent’s payment system on its popular Weixin chat app is catching up fast. Both firms are also making a big push in cloud computing and data. Both the companies also want a slice of the brick-and-mortar store segment in China that accounts for about 85 per cent of retail sales. The stores benefit like access to payment systems, logistics networks and consumer data maintained by these companies. Alibaba invested $486 million recently in a retail-focused big data firm with an aim to capture brick-and-mortar retailers in the digital age.

China: JD.com announces financing pacts for JD Logistics

hina’s largest retailer JD.com Inc recently announced it has entered into definitive agreements for the financing for its logistics subsidiary, JD Logistics, with investors, including Hillhouse Capital, Sequoia China, China Merchants Group, Tencent, China Life and China Structural Reform Fund. The amount raised in this round is likely to be $2.5 billion. After this transaction is over, JD.com will be the majority shareholder <<P30 largest trading partners have been Argentina and Brazil with bilateral trade volume at $160.894 million and $251.18 million, respectively, for fiscal year 2016-17, as per the State Bank of Pakistan (SBP) figures. The Ministry of Commerce said that it recognizes the immense trade potential of the South American region and has taken steps to enhance trade with South American countries and Mercosur as a bloc. It says 2% additional drawback has been offered on exports to non-traditional markets including Latin America.

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Chinese textile firm buys luxury Bally brand

uxury shoemaker Bally, which was founded in Switzerland in 1851, has again changed hands. China’s Shandong Ruyi has agreed to buy a controlling stake in the firm from Luxembourg-based JAB Holding, the companies said. “This is an important milestone for Shandong Ruyi Group in our enterprise to become a global leader in the fashion apparel sector,” YafuQiu, Chairman of

Shandong RuyiGroupexternal link, said in a statement. “We look forward to supporting Bally in achieving its continued growth and enhancing its brand globally.” Shandong Ruyi has been slowly building its network of luxury clothing and accessories labels Bally external linkwas founded by Carl Franz Bally at Schönenwerd in canton Solothurn in 1851. The brand was sold to Werner K. Rey

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China: Luthai Textile partners with Invista

uthai Textile, one of the market leader in apparel textile from China with strong business relationship globally, has been recording a steadily growing demand for its high-quality fabric products in China and in over 30 export markets around the world, attributes the company’s success to speed in commercialising carefully researched innovations and to close working partnerships with companies like Invista said Assistant General Manager Wang Changzhao.

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ASIA ... <<P33 having difficulties in achieving the performance standards they wanted to offer their customers. A special joint working team solved the problems, and they went on to sell five million metres a year of the top-quality fabrics that were the result. Luthai Textile believes its success reflects a highly integrated approach to the research, development and marketing of new fabric concepts, but Mr Wang also emphasised that this does not compromise the com-

exported to over 30 markets around the world. They believe working with Invista has helped the company achieve this position in the industry. Its global insight to trends and growth opportunities and their resources and speed to market are a powerful win-win combination. Mr Wang said that they could not have got to where they are today without the support of Invista. Its science base, technologies, technical services and international market knowledge make it the ideal partner.

departure in 2016 from the house. Recent collections have been panned by critics and sales, which are not disclosed, have reportedly been in decline. Fosun and Lanvin did not disclose a price for the deal, but said that as part of the transaction the acquisitive Chinese group would have a mandate to invest in the fashion and retail industry and strategically deepen its root in this sector. Fosun added that Lanvin would enter a new phase of expansion with its resources. As a French brand with almost 130 years of history, partnering with Fosun, one of the youngest and dynamic group at the

moment, is absolutely exciting and can open up great potential, said Lanvin deputy general manager Simone Mantura. The deal by Fosun is the latest foray by a Chinese group into the luxury goods industry, with interest in the sector intensifying as sales recover in Asia. Earlier this month Fosun joined Chinese conglomerate and fashion group Shandong Ruyi, in the chase for European luxury brands. The textile group controls Parisian brands Sandro, Maje and ClaudiePierlot along with Britain’s Aquascutum, and it added Swiss leather-goods maker Bally earlier this month.

China: Fosun group acquires Lanvin oldest fashion house in France

osun International Ltd has acquired a majority stake in Lanvin, France’s oldest fashion house as the Chinese conglomerate seeks to build up their portfolio of fashion businesses. Founded in 1889, Jeanne Lanvin SAS is France’s oldest fashion house in continuous operation. Taiwanese publishing magnate Shaw-Lan Wang acquired Lanvin in 2001 and expanded it into a global brand under the leadership of designer AlberElbaz. The deal offers a new path for Lanvin, long a calling card of Parisian style but listless since its star designer AlberElbaz’s

pany’s ability to precisely match products to individual customer needs. Different brands have different requirements for a given fabric type. They must first of all understand the creative strategies of their designers, and then be able to fine-tune our offer in ways that enable them customise and differentiate their products. Invista’s technical support is invaluable in this aspect. The leading Chinese mill has built on success in its domestic market and in Asia to the point where 85% of its output is now

China on track for ‘high-quality development’ in 2018

n a few days, China’s annual sessions of top legislative and political advisory bodies will open a window for the world to gain an insight into the country’s economic transition in the coming decades -- a drive toward “high-quality development.” During the meetings starting early March, national legislators and political advisors will review and discuss specific measures designed to push the economy to steadier and greener growth. “China’s economy has been transitioning from a phase of rapid growth to a stage of high-quality development,” said the report delivered to the 19th Communist Party of China National Congress in October. “This is a pivotal stage for transforming our growth model, improving our economic structure, COMMUNION MARCH 2018 34

and fostering new drivers of growth.” What does the new growth pattern mean for China and the world? What should global businesses and investors anticipate with the economic shift? The upcoming meetings, known as “two sessions,” are about to shed new light on such questions. China’s growth target, expected to be released in the government work report during the two sessions, will continue to attract worldwide attention this year. The closely-watched figure had remained stable during the past five years as policy makers put stronger emphasis on quality and became more tolerable to GDP slowdown. Economists expect China to maintain the near 6.5-percent reading this year as part of the efforts to improve economic quality and

performance. In fact, some provincial authorities have softened their goals during local sessions in January. Although it has bid farewell to breakneck expansion, China will continue its role of stabilizing the global economy. World Bank data has showed that China contributed 34 percent to world economic growth from 2012 to 2016, more than that of the United States, European Union and Japan combined. Lian Ping, economist with Bank of Communications, said the economy would be more stable this year with less quarter-to-quarter volatility in GDP increases as consumption has overtaken investment to be the main economic driver. Along with other economic policies written

...ASIA into the government work report, the annual growth target is subject to approval of the top legislature, which, along with the top advisory body, plays an important part in shaping national policies from employment to environment. Free trade will be another hot topic during the two sessions as China’s high-quality development will create an enormous consumer market causing huge demand for products from the rest of the world. With the country’s first free trade zone (FTZ), Shanghai is on the forefront of foreign trade and is still looking for more opportunities. Ying Yong, national legislator and mayor of Shanghai, said during local sessions that the city will push its FTZ to meet the highest international standards and will grope for ways to develop the “free trade port,” an area that features minimized trade control measures. The Ministry of Commerce forecast last November China would import more than $10 trillion of goods and services in the next five years. On the back of the booming imports is China’s rising middle-income group, which, with a population of around 300 million, accounts for 30 percent of the world’s total. The influence has been reflected in their increasingly bigger role in driving growth and trade. China will make more efforts to cut tariffs on products including cars, senior Chinese official Liu He said at the World Economic Forum annual meeting in January. Import taxes on 187 products were slashed last year, with the average rate down from 17.3 percent to 7.7 percent. The first China International Import Expo will be held in Shanghai in November, which is

expected to bring together thousands of enterprises from more than 100 countries. As China will mark the 40th anniversary of its reform and opening up this year, analysts expect more specific measures to widen market access for global businesses during the two sessions. At the WEF meeting, Liu said China would make more efforts to further open the country’s finance, manufacturing and service sectors, and step up protection of intellectual property. The negative list that determines where foreign participation is prohibited or limited will become shorter. Foreign firms will continue to receive equal treatment, with their interests well protected. The Belt and Road Initiative will be pushed forward, with the focus on international industrial cooperation. Foreign direct investment in the Chinese mainland hit an all-time high of 878 billion yuan ($140 billion) last year against a backdrop of lackluster global investment, and 35,652 foreign-funded businesses were established. China’s central bank announced a decision to abolish old regulations, to smooth operation of foreign-funded businesses, while another banking regulator also rolled out measures during the weekend to cut red tape for foreign lenders. Observers have said the country’s resolution to further integrate into the global economy is evident. Despite the rising protectionism in major economies, China will champion “a community with a shared future for humanity,” and further promote globalization, according to Wei Jianguo, vice-president of the China Center for International Economic Exchanges.

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ASIA ...

Vietnam: Australian tariff to boost exports

nder the ASEAN-Australia-New Zealand Free Trade Agreement (AANZFTA) roadmap, Australia will cut 90 per cent of import tariff lines in 2018 and 100 per cent of them in 2020. Pham Tuan Anh, Deputy Head of the Ministry of Finance’s Department of International Cooperation, says this is a good opportunity for Vietnamese businesses to promote the export of goods to the Australian market when those import tariff lines reduce to zero per cent. Under AANZFTA Vietnam has had many advantages in exporting agricultural products, consumer goods, textiles, footwear and wood products to Australia and are eligible for tariff preferences. Australia is a potential export market for Vietnamese goods, especially seafood as its consumption in that country has increased rapidly to some one million tonne per year. At present, Vietnamese enterprises do not have professional

knowledge of the retail system, including measures on approaching the system as well as regulations on food hygiene and safety and technical standards. They have forgotten how to introduce and advertise Vietnamese products in supermarkets. To provide the necessary information about the Australian distribution system to Vietnamese companies, the Vietnam Trade Office in Australia has introduced to local businesses the list of large retail groups in Australia with an annual revenue of AU$1 billion (US$782 million) and their basic activities to help them market their products directly to the Australian distribution chain. It is seen that the trade value between Vietnam and Australia is increasing by an average of 5 per cent every year. The General Department of Customs mentioned that in 2017, the bilateral trade value between Vietnam and Australia reached more than 6.46 billion USD, a year-on-year growth of 22.9 per cent.

Vietnam: Textile exports to China growing

hough Viet Nam remains a big importer of textile feedstock and accessories from China, its rising exports to China is a promising sign, according to the Viet Nam National Textile and Garment Group.Customs data shows imports from China in 2017 were high at US$9 billion, or 42.7 per cent of all textile-related imports, and 12 per cent higher than in 2016. Viet Nam often imports raw materials also from South Korea and Taiwan. South Korean products cost a fourth of Chinese products while Taiwanese products cost a fifth. Last year, Viet Nam’s imports from China included over $6 billion worth of silk, $2 billion worth of leather and $800 million worth of threads. However, according to the Viet Nam Textile & Apparel Association (Vitas), textile exports to China have been rising steadily, going up from $2.2 billion in 2015 to $3.2 billion last year. Vitas expects the figure to continue rising. Vitas said China’s imports of Vietnamese textile products are not taxed because of the ASEAN – China Free Trade Area while

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imports from countries such as India and Pakistan incur a 3–5 per cent tax.China is one of Viet Nam’s top five textile export markets. Since that country has the world’s largest population, its market can be extensively segmented offering a great opportunity for local textile products. Viet Nam’s textile and garment exports were worth $31 billion last year.

Vietnam: Viet Tien garment firm set export target

iet Tien Garment JSC, one of the leading companies in the garment-textile industry in Vietnam, to take measures to improve the efficiency of investment projects, expand investment and shift toward green production to realize the target of USD one billion in export turnover by 2020 with an annual average growth of 10 percent, said Director General Bui Van Tien. The company will invest in new production technologies, particularly automation, and business administration. >>P37

...ASIA

Bangladesh: Automation threatens jobs for garment workers

“

It doesn’t make sense for us to slow ourselves down” by not automating, said Huq, whose company provides apparels to H&M, Zara and other Western brands. Even a few years ago hundreds of workers were standing at the Mohammadi Fashion Sweaters Ltd in Dhaka. But in 2012, the owners began phasing out labour. In 2017 the knitting process <<P36 Apart from expanding human resources training, Viet Tien will build an advanced labour administration and improve the living standards of workers via upgrading the salary system, offering Tet bonuses and supporting poor workers. The company will launch emulation campaigns to enhance productivity, encourage thrift practice, and increase added values of products, as well as improve income and working conditions for employees. Last year, Viet Tien earned 14.1 trillion VND (627.1 million USD) in revenue, up 11.4 percent. Of which the parent company recorded 8.29 trillion VND (368.6 million USD), up 12 percent and its subsidiaries grossed 794 billion VND (35.1 million USD), up 1.5 percent. The company will focus on developing brands and distribution channels, striving to become a multinational economic group.

became fully automated. Now the factory has only a few dozen workers overseeing 173 knitting machines. The difficulty of working with fabric and the plentiful labour supply in countries such as Bangladesh, Cambodia and China would suggest the apparel industry had less need to automate than others. But rising labour costs and advances in technology has made the shift more attractive to producers. In 2016, the International Labour Organisation predicted some Asian countries could lose more than 80 percent of jobs in the garment sector due to automation. MIT Initiative on the Digital Economy Director Erik Brynjolfssonsaid that there is a substantial threat of displacement as robots master repetitive tasks. “I worry about developing countries,” he said. “They are in the bull’s-eye of this automation revolution.” But, even as Bangladesh’s apparel sector grows, it is adding fewer jobs. World Bank data shows the garment and textile sector added 60,000 new jobs a year, down from the over 300,000 it added annually from 2003 to 2010. “If you cannot absorb [young people] in productive activities, they will do something. And >>P38

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ASIA ... <<P37 the something they will do may not be socially pleasant,” World Bank Lead Economist in Bangladesh Zahid Hussain said. “It’s a social time bomb.” As automation increases it could also shift jobs back to industrialised countries, as producers seek labour forces with more skill training. Bangladesh garment producers are facing the twin pressures of media attention on factory conditions, exacer-

bated by the 2013 Rana Plaza disaster, and consumers resistant to the price increases that could help pay for improvements. The result has been more automation and less bargaining power for workers. “If you don’t change yourself, you will lose the entire business,” Denim Expert Ltd chief executive Mostafiz Uddin said. “The machine can do everything, you just program it,” he said. “If we cannot sustain the business, where will the fair

wages come from?” “Factories that before had 300 workers now might have 100 workers only,” Sommilito Garments Sramik Federation President NazmaAktersaid. This has emboldened the companies to resist worker demands and threaten further automation, the union leader said. The garment industry currently provides three million manufacturing jobs in Bangladesh and accounts for 81 percent of the country’s exports.

Bangladesh: Govt to set to frame policy for apparel buying houses

he Bangladesh government to bring in discipline and ensure accountability among the buying houses in the exportoriented apparel industry is set to frame a policy. Draft has already been prepared by the commerce ministry and sent to stake holders for vetting last month. According to the draft that seeks to get buying houses registered with the Export Promotion Bureau states that without registration with the EPB, no buying house will be able to hand over letters of credit on behalf of buyers to manufacturers. MdAbdur Rahim Khan, deputy chief at the commerce ministry’s textile cell said that this is an initial draft and their spirit is to expand export market by creating a good reputation of their sector. The move comes after some incidents of fraudulence by some buying houses.

Last year, 26 Bangladeshi garment exporters became victims after two local garment buying houses, Vanguard and ASM Apparels, placed work orders on behalf of the “importer” Y&X, saying that the latter is owned by a Bangladeshi-born British citizen named Manjur Billah. The duo offered higher prices on the condition that the raw materials have to be bought from select textile factories in China. The deception came to light after the first batch of consignments was left unclaimed for over one month at a UK port. Until now, there has been no policy on buying houses and there is no controlling authority for them, Khan said. The draft policy will get a shape in one or two months. KaziIftaquer Hossain, president of the Bangladesh Garment Buying House Association, which represents 400 buying

houses said that they have been demanding a policy for the last 10 years to bring in discipline in the sector. Apart from BGBA members, there are many buying houses operating in the country, the total of which would come to 1,500. A policy would be instrumental in resolving problems or disputes that occur among buyers, buying houses and exporters. As per the draft policy, buying houses and apparel manufacturers will have to carry out business based on contracts and send the copies of contracts to their respective organisations. Buying houses will have to maintain transparency in determining prices between buyers and exporters, according to the draft. After handing over the letters of credits to exporters on behalf of buyers, buying houses will have to continue >>P39

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Bangladesh: Demand for MMF increasing among RMG makers

emand for man-made fibres such as polyester staple, viscose and tencel is increasing as a substiture for cotton amid changes in global fashion trend. The import of man-made fibre is increasing every year, said Monsoor Ahmed, secretary of the BTMA. According to data from Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA), Bangladesh imported 78,208 tonnes of polyester staple fibre in 2016, up 11.39 percent from 70,209 tonnes in 2015 and 35.72 percent from 51,729 tonnes in 2014. The import of viscose staple fibre was <<P 38 to carry out responsibilities until exporters get payment. The draft policy said that buying houses or buying agents will have to send statements of order placement to the BGBA every three months. And the BGBA will send the

recorded at 29,146 tonnes in 2016, slightly down from 29,538 tonnes in 2015. From January to June of 2017, the volume was 16,063 tonnes, the data showed. In 2014, Bangladesh imported 18,115 tonnes of viscose staple fibre. Imports of tencel, a fibre made of trees and leaves, stood at 5,034 tonnes in 2016 and 6,199 tonnes the previous year. Razeeb Haider, managing director of Outpace Spinning Mills Ltd, said that the demand for any kind of yarn and fabrics depends on buyers’ choice. Recently, the demand for man-made fibres attested copies of statements to the EPB and the Bangladesh Bank. If any dispute arises between the exportoriented firm and the buying house, they can apply to the arbitration committee of representative organisations, who would then settle the matter within four weeks, said

has increased from the buyers’ end. So, there is a rise in import. According to the spinner, the durability and the longevity of artificial fibres are higher than cotton-made yarn and fabrics. That’s why the demand for man-made items is going up. If garments made from man-made fibres are not washed for many days their quality will not deteriorate or over-wash will not compromise the quality, Haider said. Abdullah Al Mahmud Mahin, managing director of Hamid Fabrics Ltd, said that with the rise of high-end smart >>P40 the draft policy. The draft policy seeks to form a panel to monitor the activities of buying houses. The panel will inform the commerce ministry and recommend actions if it finds involvement of any buying house in export by violating rules.

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Bangladesh: Apparel products losing its export market share in US

angladesh’s apparel export market is losing its share in US markets due to price competitiveness and lack of product diversification, according to the US Department of Commerce’s Office of Textiles and Apparel (Otexa) data, Bangladesh’s export earnings from US saw a 4.46% fall to $5.07 billion in 2017, which was $5.30 billion a year ago. Bangladesh’s market share in US apparel market came down to 6.31% from 6.58%. Vietnam, one of the closest competitors of Bangladesh, registered over 7% growth in the US apparel market, followed by Mexico at 5.33%, India at 1.19% and Pakistan at 1% in the same period. China, the largest exporter of apparel products, also saw a decline in export earnings as well as market share in the US. According to Otexa, China’s export to US saw a 3.17% fall, while market share came down to 33.67% in 2017 from 34.69% in the previous year. The total export from Bangladesh to the US was $5.27 billion in <<P39 fashion markets worldwide, the demand for man-made fibres is increasing.The number of factories producing artificial fibres also went up. Alone the polyester fibre production units rose to 52 from 10 to 12 seven years ago. There are 45 viscose staple fibre mills and 10 tencel factories. Globally, the ratio of man-made fibre has gone up compared to cotton fibre, although the latter is still the main item for spinners, Ahmed of the BTMA said. The ratio of the cotton-made yarn and the artificial one rose to nearly 80:20, whereas it was 90:10 even five years ago. The global ratio of cotton and man-made fibre use is 28:72, with the balance heavily tilting towards the artificial fabric, thanks to lower price, improved functionality, and ease of use, according to International Textile Manufacturers Federation. Many Chinese and Taiwanese investors are interested to invest in man-made fibre production in Bangladesh. Almost all sportswear items are made from artificial fabrics.

2017, down by 3.98% from 2016. Of this, only $204 million was from non-apparel products. Exporters Association of Bangladesh (EAB) president Abdus Salam Murshedy said that right now, price competitiveness is a big challenge for Bangladesh in the global markets. The production cost has gone up due to safety improvement spending as well as wage hike. The advantage of cheap labour is over. Meanwhile their competitors have gained competitiveness due to government policy support and incentives. The fall in Bangladesh’s earnings from apparel exports to the US is bigger than the total drop in US apparel and textile imports, said Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD) Research Director Khondaker Golam Moazzem. According to Otexa data, US import of apparel products has seen a 0.49% fall to $80.28 billion in 2017, which was $80.68 billion a year ago. American buyers have stopped placing work orders to factories in shared buildings, which is another reason behind the fall. But there is hope in the coming year as Bangladesh has made significant progress in workplace safety, said Moazzem. Since the economic slowdown in the US still impacting the demand of clothing products, the buyers have cut prices of products, he added.As buyers keep relocating their businesses from China to more competitive countries, Bangladesh needs to focus more on attracting these buyers and on new foreign investment. Product diversification is a must to retain consumers. Also, the government and manufacturers have to concentrate on creating a congenial business and investment atmosphere to do the same.

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Bangladesh: Shasha Denims plan to buy 40% stakes in EOS Textile

hasha Denims Limited (SDL), a sister concern of Shasha Group, one of the leading denim fabric producers in Bangladesh suitably located at Dhaka Export Processing Zone (DEPZ) with the best available infrastructural facility plans to acquire 40 percent stake of EOS Textiles Mills Limited worth approximately Tk 480 million. The Shasha Denims said that approximately Tk 480 million, of which Tk 300 million will come from IPO fund, as per approval by shareholders in the 20th annual general meeting, said Shasha Denims raised Tk 1.75 billion through initial public offering (IPO) in 2014 by floating 50 million ordinary shares, remaining Tk 180 million will come from companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cash flow to acquire 40 per cent shares of EOS Textiles Mills. The EOS Textile Mills Limited, a sister concern of Italian company Berto EG

IndustriaTessileSrl, is a 100 percent export oriented textile company located at Plot # 1-6 & 17-22 DEPZ (Exten), Ganak Bari, Savar, Dhaka. The company has also informed that in this regard a MOU signing ceremony was held between Shasha Denims Ltd and EOS Textile Ltd at Westin Hotel at Gulshan in Dhaka. Parveen Mahmud, chairman of Shasha Denims Ltd; Shams Mahmud, managing director, and Giuseppe Berto, managing director of EOS Textiles Ltd, attended the deal signing ceremony.The cotton comes from organic production, spinning, dyeing and finishing of the yarn is also carried out according to

ecological procedures. Shasha Denims Limited makes fabrics for Marks & Spencer, Zara, C&A, Cotton on, Target Australia, George, New Look, Tesco, Best seller, Jack&Jones, Dressman, Gina tricot, LPP, Kiabi and so on and deliver the largest quantity from Bangladesh. The one of the most important product range from SHASHA DENIMS Series made with 100% organic cotton, free from chemical fertilizers, pesticides and insecticides every step of the production follows sustainable textile detailed and accurate rules that make it ORGANIC DENIM.

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Sri Lanka: Textile export to experience highest rate of growth in 2018

ri Lanka’s apparel and textile export segment is likely to experience the highest rate of growth in overseas shipment in 2018 as Sri Lanka focus on achieving $20 billion in export earnings by 2020, Sri Lanka CEO survey have resoundingly voted for textile and apparel as the growth engine for exports in the year ahead, as per the a recent survey conducted by the Oxford Business Group (OBG). Textile is considered the backbone of Sri Lanka’s trade able sector comprising 47% of total exports in 2016. The OBG report said that diversification will certainly contribute to meeting the government’s bold targets, it is clear that local business leaders expect traditional industries to underpin growth for the foreseeable future.Export industries received a welcome boost in May 2017, when the EU reinstated Sri Lanka’s Generalized Scheme of Preferences Plus (GSP+) status, which had previously been rescinded over human rights concerns in 2010. GSP+ status removes the majority of import duties on Sri Lankan goods entering the European single market, and likely drove the 13.8% year-on-year increase in garment exports to the EU in November 2017. Even though the immediate future looks bright for the garments segment, Sri Lanka would be wise to devise adaptation strategies for technological advancements in manufacturing processes. Developments in innovative areas such as 3D printing and robotics are likely to erode some of the country’s current competitive advantages in the years to come, as without the need for lower labor costs, clothing giants may start to move production facilities closer to their main consumer markets. Meanwhile, the rise in oil prices worries the executives as Sri Lanka was forced to ramp up oil imports last year, following a severe drought that hampered hydro-generation capacity. According to the survey 49% of respondents place rising global oil prices as the top risk factor.One of the chief reasons for Sri Lanka submitting to the $1.5bn IMF bailout package was the profligacy of the previous Mahinda Rajapaksa administration, which had agreed to a number of high interest Chinese loans to fund infrastructure projects.

Many of these developments have operated below capacity since completion, making it difficult for Sri Lanka to honor its payment commitments. As a result, the Sirisena administration has been forced to make hard choices, such as handing over control of 70% of Hambantota Port to Chinese interests on a 99-year lease. China is the country’s main source of foreign direct investment across Sri Lanka’s economic sectors.

Nepal: Chinese Belt and Road Initiative

hina’s Belt and Road Initiative may help Nepal realize its dream of development and economic prosperity. Nepal, a land-locked and least developed country, needs the cooperation of neighbors, especially China, to upgrade its status to a developing country. Introduced by China in 2013, the Belt and Road Initiative aims to build a trade and infrastructure network connecting Asia with Europe and Africa along the ancient trade routes of the Silk Road. The Belt and Road Initiative is expected to bring opportunities in multiple fields including trade, connectivity, physical infrastructure development, tourism and investment. China and Nepal are interested in enhancing cooperation, namely, strengthening policy coordination and consolidating mutual trust, expanding connectivity and sharing experience for economic development, promoting unimpeded trade, deepening the financial integration and constructing the road for innovation, strengthening the people-topeople bond for mutual learning. Nepal seeks investment under the Belt and Road Initiative in various possible sectors like hydropower, agriculture, trade related infrastructure, tourism, herbs and herbal products, natural resources and service sectors. But for that to happen Nepal needs to pay attention to basic pre-requisites like connectivity, infrastructure development, reforms in laws, and policy amendments, among others. In addition there is a need for sincerity and political commitment for implementation of the initiative from the Nepali side.

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COMMUNION MARCH 2018 42

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Loepfe Brothers unveil OffColor detection in yarn clearers

oepfe Brothers Ltd., manufacturer of sensors and monitoring equipment for yarn spinning and fabric weaving processes, has launched the new optional feature in the yarn clearer YarnMaster ZENIT+, the OffColor detection. The OffColor detection is able to detect and eliminate very small colour and shade variations in the yarn during the winding process. Mélange yarns and colour-

effect yarns are a growing trend in the garment industry. In order to have an optimum mélange yarn, the fibres have to be mixed carefully in the right proportions at the beginning of

the spinning process. Even small shade variations or colour deviations of the yarns may result in poor quality of the fabric after knitting or weaving. Another common reason for poor quality can arise during the winding process, where bobbins with similar looking colour or shades are accidentally mixed up. Even small variations in the shade of the yarn, which cannot be detected by the human eye when looking at the bobbin, can result in poor quality. Complaints about yarn quality can be expensive >>P44

Cambodia: Assets in garment units sold off to pay workers

ore than 700 workers from three factories owned by a Chinese businessman in Phnom Penh’s PorSenchey district — Yu Fa Garment Industry, Yu Da Garment Industry and S.R.E Garment Company — recently received part of their pending wages after the owner absconded early this month. Factory assets were sold off to pay 65 per cent of each worker’s January

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wage. But the workers did not get any severance pay or benefits because the machines sold off could not cover the costs, a report quoted Son Prak, deputy chief of the Worker Union Federation, as saying. Although most workers did not like the deal, they had to accept the partial pay because the owner disappeared, he said.

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WORLD... <<P43 for the spinning mill. To guarantee high quality even in this difficult field, Loepfe offers OffColor detection in the yarn clearer YarnMaster ZENIT+. The new feature uses the F-Sensor, which is already integrated in the YarnMaster ZENIT+. Therefore spinning mills, which already use the yarn clearer for quality control during winding, can update their devices with this new functionality. The new OffColor detection has been extensively tested with a large number

of bobbins with mélange yarn. The bobbins, which have been made available by a customer, had the same colour, but small shade variations as the black portion of the mélange yarn varied slightly from dark to light grey. During the test runs, which have been conducted at Loepfe ´s headquarter in Switzerland, the YarnMaster ZENIT+ with the new optional OffColor feature was able to detect even the smallest shade variations very reliably. All other functions of the yarn clearer have been disabled during

the tests. The new feature does not depend on the colour of the yarn. In addition to the tests conducted at Loepfe’s headquarter, some clients have already tested the new functionality during normal operation in the spinning mill. These clients confirm that the OffColor feature works absolutely reliably and clear yarns of wrong colours or shades during the winding process. Between 10 per cent and 15 per cent of the spinning mills actually produce coloured yarns or mélange yarns.

There was no centralised database, and our existing system was not set up to handle timelines, merchandise planning, or workflows.” “We used to just produce two big collections a year, but now the market demands more segmented collections within smaller windows. Every time we did a pre-collection or a trend update, it had to be handled using a new set of documents and spreadsheets. This created a lot of inefficiency and trouble for our product development teams,” he added. Reusch said, “Creative product design and development are the foundation of our enterprise and we need the right tools to help people involved in those areas in order to support our future growth. We anticipate having more transparency and streamlining our operations,

making it possible for everyone to access the correct information instantly from a centralised database.” Drykorn spent two years carefully evaluating PLM solutions and Centric Software immediately won favour with their teams. Christian Oertel-Korfhage, from Drykorn’s IT team said, “After the first Centric presentation, people were so excited by it they said, ‘When can we start?’ The interface is modern and easy to understand, with a very strong IT platform behind it. Centric offers everything we wanted from a PLM system. Centric’s customer references are very convincing, as they include some of the biggest players in our market. Also, Centric is extremely communicative with customers about the latest updates and trends in the industry.”

Clothing brand Drykorn selects Centric PLM suite

rykorn, the German clothing brand known for its progressive metropolitan style, has selected Centric Software to provide its Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) solution. Centric Software provides innovative enterprise solutions to fashion, retail, footwear, outdoor, luxury, and consumer goods companies to achieve strategic digital transformation goals.

Florian Reusch, chief digital officer at Drykorn said, “The company outgrew its existing systems for managing merchandise planning and product development. We were working with a combination of Excel spreadsheets, email, word documents, PDFs, and a PDM system which our needs had outpaced. Information was distributed across different formats and channels, which made it difficult for people to access the data they needed. Manufacturer, Importer & Exporter of: BUTTONS:Polyester, Plastic , Shell, Mop, Design, Snap , Metal, Buckles, Eyelets, ZipsLaces, Velcro, Ribbon, Hangers, Woven & Non Woven Interlining Mobilon, Elastics, Tape Packing Material

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Walmart to introduce 4 new private-label apparel brands

he company said its apparel lines will be available nationwide, in stores and online. The revamped clothing brands include Time and Tru for women, Terra & Sky for plus sizes and Wonder Nation for kids. An existing Walmart label known as George, which the company incorporated from its British unit Asda, is being reconfigured to sell only items for men. Items will be priced from less than US $5 to US $30.

In its stores, Walmart said it’s “making improvements to its apparel departments to help customers find style inspiration and shop new looks.” Walmart has been acquiring small online brands like Shoebuy, Modcloth and Bonobos over the past year to boost growth in the clothing and accessories business, where consumers are increasingly

shopping online. The company is also relaunching its private brand George, which was from its British unit ASDA, to sell items only for men in the United States. To make room for the brands, Walmart is retiring such labels as White Stag and Faded Glory, and George’s women’s collection in the United States.

cialise IoT products quickly and cost-effectively. For Qualcomm, IoT and security represent a $43 billion serviceable addressable opportunity in 2020. “The wireless and computing technologies that enabled the mobile revolution are fueling fast growth in connected devices, and as the IoT brings exciting change to virtually every industry you can think of, Qualcomm Technologies is present with the right innovations and products to help make that happen,” said Mike Finley, senior vice president and president, Qualcomm North

America and Australia, Qualcomm Technologies, Inc. “We are successfully scaling the business to serve hundreds, and ultimately thousands of new customers in the IoT, and with our deep technology portfolio we are well-positioned to help innovators everywhere participate in the IoT opportunity by building on the depth of our mobile technologies. With our customers we are bringing the benefits of the IoT to life by providing the connectivity, compute and security they need as a foundation.”

Qualcomm innovations drive IoT momentum

ualcomm Technologies is providing highly differentiated chipset products, reference designs and over 30 purpose-built platforms that are designed to make it easy for a broad array of leading brands including apparel to participate in the Internet of Things (IoT). Qualcomm Technologies is helping drive the industrial IoT with solutions for smart devices.

This milestone reflects the success of the company’s strategy to work with customers who are category leaders and shows its ability to innovate and deliver the technologies and platforms that help them commer-

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Simone Perele celebrates 70 years of luxury lingerie

elebrating 70 years of offering luxury lingerie, iconic French lingerie brand Simone Pérèle is set to launch an exclusive 1948 range this autumn. Available in over 120 independent and department stores throughout the UK and Ireland, the Simone Pérèle brand will recreate traditional classic styles inspired from the late Simone Perele, founder.

“The limited edition 1948 collection will offer luxurious lingerie styles of the era. From beautiful satin corsets with elegant top-stitched branding along the neckline to stunning edgy bustier that accentuates women curves. These styles are

easily paired with boyfriend jeans and a chic kimono for a stylish day-to-night look,” Simone Pérèle said in a press release. For the last 70 years, Simone Pérèle has been at the forefront of innovative lingerie design, creating handmade products in an industrial world. In the 1950’s the classic figure was redefined and lingerie became ultra-feminine and, taking their inspiration from Bridgette Bardot, Simone Pérèle pioneered the Soleil bra which gave women the perfect pointed bust, which became an instant success.

Tethis to commercialise greener items for diaper industry

aleigh-based Tethis is set to commercialise products that will revolutionise the diaper market by making it greener and reducing plastic waste that ends up in landfills. The green materials startup with Blue Hill Group (BHG) will invest $17.6 million. To scale commercial production for products manufactured out of starches and other renewable feedstocks.

The first product being brought to market is Tethex, which provides a bio-based, biodegradable alternative to the $8 billion global superabsorbent polymer market for diapers that has been dominated by petrochemicals made from sodium polyacrylate. “This round of funding is an important milestone,” said Tethis co-founder and CEO Scott Bolin. “It’s a testament to the hard work our team has put together to validate our technology and prepare it for commercial scale. We’re excited to join with our

investors and partners on our mission to provide bio-based solutions to major problems like enabling sustainable diapers for everyone.” “We are excited about the potential of the Tethis products,” said Steve Lerner, one of the BHG managing partners. “Scott and the team have developed a transformative technology that will fundamentally change the diaper industry by moving it into a more sustainable space less dependent on oil. We’re proud to be a part of this significant phase.” In addition to Lerner, Blue Hill Group managing partners include Liggett CEO Ron Bernstein, and banking executive Jonathan Hornaday. “We’re tremendously pleased to have added such a wealth of commercial and industrial experience to our team,” said Tethis’ chairman Chris Evans.

J.Crew Launched a Line of Ultra-Comfy Lingerie

inally, what you wear underneath your J.Crew Tippi sweaters and Perfect-fit T-shirts will feel just as soft and expertly worn-in, for the brand has officially started making its own lingerie.

J.Crew just launched its first-ever intimates collection, with a variety of styles and silhouettes available in sizes XS through XL for bottoms and 32A through 36D for bras. Prices range from $12.50 to $36.

There are four different bras: a plunging V-neck bra, an unpadded underwire bra, a French-inspired bralette, and an underwire balconette that has removable straps and “slipproof silicone trim,” so that it can be worn strapless. The underwear selection also features a variety of classics, from bikini bottoms to thongs to hipster panties. J.Crew Intimates offers a range of materials, >>P48

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47 MARCH 2018 COMMUNION

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Domestic market drives sales of Italian textile machinery

talian textile machinery sees significant increase in sales orders by 29 percent in the final quarter of 2017 from the domestic market. According to the latest figures released by the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers (ACIMIT), the index value stood at 120.9 points (basis: 100 in 2010) for the period from October to December 2017 compared to the same period for the previous year.

This growth rate affected both foreign markets, for which the index registered an absolute value of 128 points (+23%) and the domestic market in Italy. In the latter case, the increase was 72%

compared to the period from October to December 2016, for an absolute value of 94.5 points. According to ACIMIT, on an annual basis, the index registered an average increase of 18% with respect to 2016. Domestic orders were up 36%, a significant rise, which the trade body said, confirmed the effectiveness of the government’s measures to support investments by Italian manufacturers. Foreign markets also registered a substantial increase in orders for the entire year (+16%). However, based on updated data for

the first nine months of 2017, Italian exports increased 10% compared to the period from January to September 2016, with solid performances by Italian businesses in the industry in all major markets. In Italy, the measures envisaged in the National Industrial Plan 4.0, were responsible for launching purchases of advanced machinery. ACIMIT President Alessandro Zucchi said that the orders index for 2017 confirms that their sector is in good health, with a production trend that has been growing since 2015.

African countries to ban imported secondhand clothes from UK, US he African countries to enhance textile March 2016, the head of states in the East

manufacturing sector that presently contributes 8.7 percent to the regional Gross Domestic Product to 25 percent by 2032. In

<<P46 from point d’esprit dotted mesh and polka-dot lace to microfiber and soft, stretchy cotton, which come in a rainbow of colors and prints (tiny cherries, nautical stripes, cheetah prints…). What’s more, the brand teamed up with vegan nail polish brand Veque to create a custom line of polishes in the same colors as the undergarments, in case you absolutely must match your nail polish to your thong—and really, why wouldn’t you?

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African Community (EAC), which comprises of Uganda, Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda, Burundi and South Sudan, had agreed to ban import of used clothes from the US and UK into the region in three years as part of the EAC Vision 2050 and the Industrialization Policy. The countries are hoping that local factories will create much-needed jobs and increase exports.

The three African countries – Rwanda, Tanzania and Uganda have strongly agreed to ban second-hand clothing, mostly imported from the US and UK, in order to support their own textile industries. But the US has claimed that the

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proposed ban goes too far and violates the free trade agreements under the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), which aims to expand trade and investment on the continent. At a summit in Uganda’s capital Kampala, leaders agreed on a compromise in response to the pressure from Washington. According to them, secondhand imports will not be directly banned, but import taxes will still need to be paid. In addition, they want to invest more money in their own textile industry. In the meeting’s closing communiqué, they said that the members of the East African Community should promote their textile industry by >>P49

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H&M’s Initiatives for use of nylon waste from oceans, landfills

wedish multinational clothing-retailer H&M, is pushing the boundaries of what we can expect from sustainable fabrics with its seventh eco-friendly conscious exclusive collection. This range is described by H&M as “exquisite, premium pieces that celebrate the new season and showcase the increasing possibilities of sustainable fashion with a focus on development and innovation.” This year they have partnered with, a global producer of nylon yarn, in paying tribute to the Arts and Crafts movement in Sweden and features the new sustainable materials recycled silver and ECONYL, a 100 per cent regenerated fibre from fishnets and other nylon waste.

This partnership marks the first time that the Conscious <<P48 using measures which do not jeopardize the benefits of AGOA membership. According to Rodgers Mukwaya from the UN Economic Commission for Africa (UNECA), it is still unclear whether the US intends to go along with its threats. But even if the EAC is excluded from the AGOA by the US, it probably won’t pose much of a risk. The AGOA has not had a strong benefit for countries in Eastern Africa. So any ban from the US will not have a big effect on the exports from Eastern Africa with the exception of Kenya. ALM

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Exclusive collection features pieces made from ECONYL yarn, Aquafil’s regenerated nylon made also from waste diverted from landfills and oceans. The collection’s release is the beginning of a long-awaited collaboration between two industry leaders with a shared vision for a more sustainable future. H&M has made a commitment to cleaning up their act. Last year, they unveiled a new sustainability mission, which aims to infuse an eco-ethos into every aspect of the business. The six-piece line of jackets, skirts and pants is made from 20 per cent recycled materials pulled directly from the unwanted clothes customers have been dropping off. The other 80 per cent is comprised of organic cotton from the company’s Better Cotton Initiative program.

Gamateks innovates with Invista fiber

urkey-based Gamateks, which specialises in circular knitting has three of its fabrics feature Invista’s Lycra fiber innovations. It has developed a special black circular knitted legging fabric called Soft Comfort 2. Made with Lycra Soft Comfort technology, this fabric delivers exquisite comfort and fit and is meant for >>P50

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Levi Strauss develops denim finishing

evi Strauss has devised a new operating model that ushers denim finishing into the digital era. Project FLX (future-led execution) digitizes denim finish design and enables a responsive and sustainable supply chain at an unparalleled scale. By replacing manual techniques and automating the jeans finishing process, Project FLX radically reduces time to market — and eliminates thousands of chemical formulations from jeans finishing.

Using this method Levi Strauss can replace manual techniques and automate the time-consuming, labor-intensive and chemical-reliant process of hand-finishing. By using lasers in new ways, finishing time is cut dramatically – from two to three pairs per hour to 90 seconds per garment, followed by a final wash cycle. By digitizing the finish design and development process, designers can now create finishes and final garments with a revolutionary new imaging tool. This advanced imaging <<P49 premium brands and their consumers. Another fabric called Next400 contains Lycra T400 fiber and Coolmax technology to

keep athletes cool and dry. This innovative fabric can be used from ready-to-wear to stretch active wear collections. Wooderer is another fabric with Lycra T400 fiber, offering Coolmax technology benefits. It is a viscose and Lycra T400 pique fabric blend developed primarily for men’s golf and tennis lines.

Invista is a leading integrated producer of polymers and fibers, primarily for nylon, spandex and polyester applications. With a business presence in over 20 countries, Invista has a wide portfolio of some of the most recognized brands and trademarks in their respective industries including: Coolmax, Cordura, Lycra, Polarguard, Solarmax, Supplex, Tactel, and Thermolite. Gamateks is a vertically integrated fabric and garment producer. It started in 1985 with production and processing of cotton. In 1995, a dyeing-finishing-printing unit was established. Gamateks has an integrated yarn facility.

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capability cuts finishing design and development time in half (from months to weeks and sometimes days) and is so accurate the digital files can be sent directly to the vendor and quickly scaled to mass manufacturing. Levi Strauss has begun piloting Project FLX with select vendors and retail partners and will roll it out across its supply chain in a phased approach over the next two years.

4.0 technology brings new opportunities for the fashion industry

ectra, the technological partner for companies using fabrics and leather, the French business school ESCP Europe and their joint ‘Fashion & Technology’ Chair explored the impact of Industry 4.0 on fashion’s value chain at a recent round table discussion at ESCP Europe’s London campus. From brands to manufacturers panellists from across the value chain stressed on the need for the industry to embrace alliance between man and machines to leverage enormous benefits from quicker decision-making to cost-reduction.

Exploring the advantages of Industry 4.0 technology, Evelthon Vassilou, CEO, Alison Hayes UK, disclosed, “Interpreting the data of what is and isn’t, selling should help to speed up decisions. You can react very quickly across the entire supply chain and either stop producing something unsuccessful or ramp up production if successful. Data and data analytics is not sufficient, to succeed this also requires a high degree of trust and integration between retailers and suppliers.” Robert Diamond Founder and CEO, Fernbrook Partners said, “It’s about using technology to deliver continuous improvement in everyday business. People are not good at making a large volume of repeatable decisions with many different data inputs. If business decision, or the outcome of the resolution tomorrow, is pretty much the same as what happened yesterday, then there is a chance for >>P51

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...WORLD <<P50 machine learning to help improve the situation.”Pierre Mercier, Senior Partner and MD, Boston Consulting Group noted that technology propelled by Industry 4.0 is disrupting former sources of competitive advantage, “forcing companies to rethink how they want to compete in their respective industries and how to use data to compete differently. The common denominator in the fashion ecosystem is that everyone is facing the opportunity for a step change and need to figure out where to double down and accelerate their transformation.” UK fashion brand’s AllSaints, Dan Hartley, Global Head of Digital Commerce, shared his trade secrets, “We take customer feedback very seriously and we use it as a framework for our internal road map - from a tech and development point of view, through to design and fit, the customer is at the heart of everything we do.”

uess will trace the sources of its woodbased fabrics like viscose, rayon and modal fibers. This is a bid to battle deforestation and protect the rights of people living in at-risk forests. Guess joins an array of fashion companies aiming to rid their supply chains of products from endangered forests.

The brand aims at embracing existing solutions as well as trying new ones to address social and environmental challenges. It’s taking the steps necessary to improve its supply chain. By 2020, it aims at making its global operations greener and encouraging consumers to buy more eco-conscious garments. This year Guess mapped its denim production by water availability and assessed the sustainability of its denim products. To improve its denim production and products, the company is

currently drafting a comprehensive water action management plan to address these impacts, which is set to debut in 2018. Production of wood pulp for fabrics can involve clearing forests to build eucalyptus plantations on land traditionally used by indigenous communities. Other companies to take similar measures include Abercrombie & Fitch, Ralph Lauren, L Brands, H&M, Zara, Levi Strauss and British fashion designer Stella McCartney.Guess’s policy is another critical step in an industry-wide shift to take responsibility for the on-the-ground impacts of rayon and viscose fabrics. Wood-based rayon, sometimes called the poor man’s silk, is inexpensive and flexible, contributing to its popularity with clothing makers.

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G-Star RAW launches the world’s most sustainable denim

ince its conception in 1989, G-Star RAW a cult leader in the denim has continuously challenged the conventions of design. Staying true to its ethos, the brand has launched the world’s most sustainable denim after two years of production. The denim brand has made available to the public one of their most ambitious projects to date—the most sustainable jeans ever. After years of analyzing every facet of the denim production chain, G-Star has developed techniques and technologies that significantly reduce, if not eliminate in some aspects, the environmental impact of creating a pair of jeans.G-Star’s commitment to sustainability is keenly reflected

in their newly developed material which demonstrates four unique denim innovations. From new, sustainable washing techniques to the creation of the cleanest indigo dyes in the business, this denim is an innovation that has the potential to usher in a new era of environmentally-conscious denim production across the entire industry.G-Star have also made the material open source, meaning other denim manufacturers can access and use the material in their production an incredibly important move for the future of sustainable denim.

Gap focuses on growth of brands

ap has suffered from a decline in store traffic. The company will instead focus on areas where customers are actually shopping - off-price locations and online. Gap was able to deliver positive comps for the first time in 15 quarters.

Gap intends to focus on growth brands, such as Hollister and Athleta, while closing down about 10 per cent of Gap and Banana Republic stores from lower-productivity locations. This move follows from the decline in demand for the company’s more established brands in favor of its younger chains. The US active wear market is a $40 billion behemoth, with an

eight per cent average annual growth rate, representing one of the highest growth areas in the apparel market. Gap’s Athleta brand is solely focused on this space and the company provides athletic wear in its other segments as well. For the company as a whole, this segment contributes over a billion dollars in revenues, while Athleta’s growth continues to outpace the market. The company has taken a number of initiatives to make the supply chain responsive, and as a result, 50 per cent of the assortment in the business is on a pipeline of 6 to 11 weeks.

VF Corp adopts circular economy

F Corporation is changing to a circular business model. Consumers come back with lightly used jackets, shoes, clothes, to get of incentive to purchase something new. VF takes these products and, through a third party, cleans, resells, and recycles them. The company has found every time a retail store has such a program, traffic in the store goes up, conversion rate goes up, and average retail sale goes up.US-based VF Corp, is an apparel,

footwear, and accessory company and has more than 1,500 owned and operated retail locations around the world across its brand portfolio. A look at the overall impact of any com-

pany within the apparel industry shows roughly 70 or 80 per cent, if not more, comes from materials. The apparel industry is also incredibly wasteful, driven by a lot of fast fashion. One challenge is that the economic system is not based on taking products back from consumers. There is not a lot of infrastructure. Consumers are not familiar with the idea of putting clothes into a box to send back to a brand. Who does it go back to? Distribution centers aren’t set up to take products back, wash them, clean them, repair them, and put them on an e-commerce site to sell them again.

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COMMUNION MARCH 2018 52

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California to introduce microfiber warning labels for polyester apparels

alifornia may have a law requiring clothing made from fabric that is more than 50 per cent polyester to bear a label warning that the garment sheds plastic microfibers when machine washed. If the bill passes, the sale or offering for sale of clothing without this label would be prohibited as of January 1, 2020. Hats and shoes would be exempt.

According to the bill, garments made from synthetic fibers such as polyester can shed up to 1,900 microfibers per wash. Since these fibers are small enough to get past filters, they end up in waterways and the ocean. A study of fish sold at

California fish markets found 25 percent of fish and a third of shellfish contained plastic debris, with the majority of that plastic debris being microfibers. Microplastics have the potential to poison the food chain, as these tiny beads of plastic have been found in the stomachs of marine life, as well as the supply of drinking water. It’s estimated that the world’s oceans will contain more plastic than fish by 2050. The California bill is meant to be in line with other efforts in the state aimed at reducing water pollution, including a ban on personal care products containing plastic microbeads.

C&A committed to continue sourcing eco-friendly cotton

pparel retailer C&A, joined Prince of Wales global Sustainable Cotton Communiqué, a pledge launched at the 2017 Textile Exchange Sustainability Conference and commits apparel retailers to use 100 per cent sustainable cotton by 2025. Around 37 major fashion brands, including Asos and Nike, have signed the pledged in an effort to drive sustainable practices in the apparel industry and alleviate the negative environmental impact of cotton production, including the use of pesticide and eliminate greenhouse gases.

C&A pledged to source more eco-friendly cotton over the next

three years. Jeffrey Hogue, C&A’s global Chief Sustainability Officer elaborates on the pledge, “By joining this initiative we – as the world’s No. 1 buyer of certified organic cotton and the world’s No. 3 brand sourcing more sustainable cotton – have the opportunity to share our learning with the industry on how to source and accelerate the use of more sustainable cotton. Our 2020 goal is for 100 per cent of the cotton we use to be more sustainable. Today, already over 70 per cent of the cotton we sell meets this standard.” >>P54

53 MARCH 2018 COMMUNION

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Lectra set to digitise apparel manufacturing process

igitisation of the production chain is going to dramatically transform the entire apparel manufacturing space, believes Holger Max-Lang, newly appointed MD of Lectra Germany. Talking about the transformational journey over the decade, he said that Lectra is moving strongly in the direction of mobile production lines. For example, there are container solutions that can be integrated into a pop-up store - individual production for local sales, made possible by automation and robotics. The key question will be which functions clothing will assume in the future. Here, two areas are increasingly merging, nanotechnology and the textile industry. The result is so-called smart textiles, intelligent fabrics with woven-in electrical engineering. The resulting opportunities will transform the clothing industry and production.

Fashion and textile companies are investing heavily in the digitisation of the fashion and textile sector as market pressure increases and product lifecycles decrease. With its Speedfactory and the ‘Knit for You’ storefactory concept, Adidas has created groundbreaking examples of the future. According to Max-Lang, customers are particularly interested in 3D virtual prototyping and PLM (Product Lifecycle Management). The cutting room is also moving in the direction of industry 4.0 – digital, networked and intelligent. Robotics certainly plays a role in this respect, but the same degree of automation will not <<P53 As per C&As 2016 global sustainability report, 53 per cent of the cotton C&A sold met the standard for sourcing more sustainable cotton and 33 per cent of the cotton the company sold was organic. The brand revealed it does not blend organic cotton with non-organic cotton in its apparel range and makes sure that all organic cotton it uses are certified by leading third-party standards, including the Global Organic Textile Standard and the Organic Cotton Standard. In 2015, C&A signed the Better Cotton Initiative, a program crafted around adoption of better farming practices and support eco-friendly cotton production.

be possible sooner as is the case with the automotive industry. The biggest challenge for fashion companies is to become faster and more agile. Big players like Amazon, but also new digital startups, raise the bar further. This is one reason why Lectra has developed its current solutions, such as Lectra Fashion PLM, 4.0 compliant. The modular solutions meet the new requirements of companies and adapt to their changing business models. A PLM in a digital supply chain links all departments of a clothing manufacturer, simplifies communication and accelerates the development and production of products. This enables fashion companies to react quickly to trends. In addition, manufacturers are becoming more agile and can offer individual products, for example by allowing customers to influence parts of the design. In Lectra’s new Cutting Room 4.0, all departments of a production facility are digitally networked. In this way, it enables profitable mass production with single pieces in series. The topic also plays a major role in the apparel sector, especially in the sports industry in the field of team sports. Tailor-made clothes, but at a price of mass production. Here too, Lectra will offer the right solution. Talking about the possibilities of the 3D design, Max-Lang elaborated that correctly implemented, prototypes are no longer necessary with the 3D simulation. This saves time and money. This approach is a major step towards the digital development process. Especially companies for women’s wear as well as men’s wear use the Lectra 3D solution Modaris, as this system offers a pool of pre-fabricated cuts. This is the basis on which designers develop their designs. All subsequent departments also benefit from this because information such as grading can automatically be implemented and passed on. For the 3D simulation of fabrics on models, information about the elasticity (chain, weft, diagonal), >>P55 A House of Garment Accessories

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Testing for Staple and Filament Yarns

here is one essential requirement for any yarn, whether staple or filament: it must be strong enough to cope with the rigors of downstream processes, without causing production stoppages. High-speed weaving and knitting put yarns under powerful stresses and strains, so they need to meet the strength and elongation standards for subsequent processes and the required end-uses. The new USTER® TENSORAPID

5 delivers accurate and effective tensile testing performance that yarn producers can rely on.

No matter what the demands of the fabric end-use, minimum strength and elongation properties are needed to prevent a yarn breaking or being damaged in downstream operations. The USTER® TENSORAPID 5 offers testing of all kind of yarns. For over 50 years, the USTER® TENSORAPID has <<P54 been renowned through the industry for bending resistance as well as the weight its high precision and reliability. and thickness of the fabric is digitally Operating according globally-accepted determined. The techniques used standards for both staple and filament include FAST (Fabric Assurance by yarn parameters, the Uster Tensorapid 5 simple testing) and KES F (Kawabata is a universal strength and elongation Evaluation System for Fabrics). Based tester, with a testing speed that is on this existing data, users can create steplessly adjustable between 50 and their own fabrics or have them digitised 5000 mm/min. With a 500 N or 1500 N by a laboratory. Lectra system already measuring head, the instrument covers contains more than 300 fabrics. the complete range of force and

elongation testing, including all known tensile test procedures. Measurements and results comply with all the international standards, including ISO, ASTM, BISFA and Chinese test organizations. Data also integrates directly with the acknowledged global textile quality benchmarks, the Uster STATISTICS. The fast-moving nature of the textile industry increases the demands on quality control systems. To stay competitive, yarn producers constantly seek for new yarn structures, core yarns with a high elastane content, for example. These innovations also bring extra challenges for quality control instruments. But the Uster Tensorapid 5 is ideally equipped to cope: this Uster strength tester has the flexibility to measure all kind of yarns. Its wide range of force and elongation testing possibilities covers all known tensile test >>P56

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WORLD... <<P55 procedures and tensile values. The Uster Tensorapid 5 has an automatic function with the capability of handling 40 samples. In case of a problem during feeding, the test continues and the customer has the option to repeat the missing position at a later stage. This ensures a high sample throughput, user friendliness and test efficiency. The Uster Tensorapid 5 is configured for ergonomic sample preparation on the side which makes it fastest and most convenient for the operator. Vertical yarn guides allow for user-friendly operation. A limit editor shows the essential information, focusing on exceptions and outliers – ideal for presenting the most important details at a single glance. Customized reports and long-term reports are in line with the well-known Uster TESTER 6 user interface. Integration of results with Uster Tester 6 allows users to profit from intelligent

alarms through the Total Testing Center. Smart reports integrate results from both evenness and tensile tests, providing an overview of the quality being produced. This enables fast reaction by the Quality Manager, to minimize complaints. The result is a complete mill quality system, integrating data from fiber, yarn and tensile testing procedures, both in the laboratory and in-process from the Uster Quantum 3 yarn clearers. Uster Tensorapid 5 is the must-have tensile testing system for staple yarn producers who are committed to the Uster approach of ‘managing a spinning mill with quality in mind’ for the ultimate satisfaction of their customers downstream.The specific needs of filament yarn producers are related to the continuing development of new products and application areas in demanding sectors such as technical textiles, as well as in apparel and home textiles. The Uster Tensorapid 5-C is tailored specifically to high-precision filament

testing, incorporating unique software covering the essential quality factors of strength and elongation. Information about the first break of a filament helps spinners guarantee high speeds in subsequent processes. The determination of yield point and natural draw ratio particularly help POY yarn producers to reduce claims. The newly developed Uster Tensorapid 5 for staple yarn and the Uster Tensorapid 5-C for filament yarn play a vital role in the drive for improved handling efficiencies and precisely-specified yarn profiling between mills and their customers, through their capacity, precision and reliability. “Tensile testing has been used in textiles since the earliest days of the industry and it will doubtlessly be important in the future. With the new generation of tensile tester we are convinced we have products tailor-made for today’s and tomorrow’s industry,“ says Gabriela Peters, Product Manager Yarn Testing, within Uster Technologies.

apparel world. Stafford and Steve Battista, Revtown’s chief marketing officer, worked together for nearly a decade at Under Armour as leaders of product, and brand, respectively. Stafford was chief merchandising officer at American Eagle Outfitters before spending more than six years at Under Armour, overseeing product and all of the company’s North American business. Battista served as Under Armour’s head of brand and creative, among other leadership roles over 17 years. The company’s founders also include Matthew Maasdam and Chris Lust. Maasdam, Revtown’s chief digital officer, served 14 years as a Navy SEAL and later as the U.S. Navy’s aide to the President of the United States, before running e-commerce operations for Under Armour. Chris Lust, founder and partner of Dock Street Capital Management and SLC Capital Management, will serve as Revtown’s CFO.

The Revtown product team boasts some of the top designers and engineers from the most innovative athletic apparel brands today, complemented by a denim manufacturing team that has made over 150 million pairs of jeans, with a combined 100 years of denim production experience. Revtown Jeans come in two styles, SHARP and AUTOMATIC. Sharp jeans are fitted with a refined look, more dress than casual, yet with the flex of DECADE DENIM™. Automatic jeans are for “any guy, any time, any place.” Automatic jeans are designed to be mobile, not baggy, providing ultimate comfort without having to size up. Revtown also offers Revtown Shirts, made from world-class Pima cotton. Revtown Shirts come in four essential styles, including Crew, V-Neck, Henley and Polo. Also available as Revtown launches are Revtown Crates, offering two pairs of jeans and any three shirts for just $210.

Revtown Launches First Denim Collection

evtown, a new denim brand, recently launched its first collection of hand-crafted, premium jeans, exclusively available at www. revtownusa.com.

Revtown Jeans are built with DECADE DENIM™, the brand’s patented fabric that is infused with four-way, dynamic stretch, and constructed with the strongest fibers in apparel design today. “We’re thrilled to announce the launch of Revtown,” said Henry Stafford, Founder and CEO of Revtown. “With Decade Denim, we’ve created a level comfort, fit and feel that hasn’t been experienced in a pair of jeans. Two months in, we’re off to a great start. And we’re proud to deliver our jeans directly to the consumer for less than half the price of a typical pair of designer jeans.” This first Revtown collection is designed for men. A women’s collection is in design for next year.Revtown was founded by a group with extensive experience in the COMMUNION MARCH 2018 56

...WORLD

Oxeon Awarded AS9100D Certification

xeon AB is proud to announce it has received the AS9100D Aerospace certification. This designates a high-standard Quality Management System (QMS). “The official AS9100 certification is a very important step in the development of the company,” said CEO Henrik Blycker. “Even though we already deliver material into the Aerospace Supply Chain, it is important that we continue to improve ourselves and show our commitment to the market. AS9100 is helping to ensure that we are always ahead of the curve in regards to our methods, processes and documentation. This qualification gives us the opportunity to sign new contracts within the aerospace industry.” The certification denotes the presence of a quality management system that helps ensure highly consistent products. It signifies the establishment of rigorous processes, procedures and policies that all Oxeon employees must follow. It encompasses standard operating procedures, work instructions, manual creation, process specifications, forms, and process flow charts for all aspects of the business – including marketing and sales, the product development supply chain and production,

customer requests and product releases. The AS9100 QMS standard, is the de‐facto standard for the world’s companies within the aerospace/space field, and it is an extension of the widely used ISO9001:2015 standard. AS9100 outlines some of the most stringent requirements for QMS and it is published by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). In Sweden, there are only 19 companies that have achieved this standard thus far, and Oxeon AB is one of the first companies in Sweden to achieve the newer version D (AS9100:2016). TeXtreme® offers both advanced carbon composite reinforcement and full support to achieve superior performance and innovative composite solutions. TeXtreme Technology has been established as the best choice for the making of ultra-lightweight carbon fiber products.

Disclaimer Readers are requested to verity & make appropriate enquires to satisfy themselves about veracity of an advertisement before responding to any published in this magazine. World Impex Inc, the publisher & owner of this magazine, does not vouch for the authenticity of any advertisement. In no event can the publisher of this magazine be held responsible/liable in any manner.

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57 MARCH 2018 COMMUNION

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Karl Mayer Acquires Continuous Dyeing Technology With Indigo

taly-based Master S.r.l. and Karl Mayer signed an agreement for transferring the continuous dyeing technology with indigo and other dyestuffs of warp chains for denim fabrics.

Karl Mayer takes over from Master patents, trademarks, projects and dyeing technology for machines model:

IndigoFlow, IndigoRope and IndigoGenius. Master — pioneer and leader in the continuous dyeing with indigo and other dyestuffs, after the delivery of currently ordered machines, will stop the manufacturing of these kind of machines and will focus its activity to

develop and manufacture new machines for packages and hank dyeing. Karl Mayer — in its center of excellence for denim sector, Karl Mayer Rotal, will further develop the Nitrogen technology, by integrating it into its current product range PRODYE-S and PRODYE-R.

fuel; and • Spill prevention plans. White Plains Linen earned Clean Green certification initially in 2014. The designation is valid for three years at a time. TRSA inspects laundry facilities seeking certification and approves documentation of their water and energy use and BMP deployment through production reports they submit to auditors during the inspections. TRSA’s certification management protocol includes auditor training by the association’s inspection program administrator. Clean Green aligns with the ASTM International standard, Guide for Sustainable Laundry Practices, which recognizes key criteria for the certification as universal indicators of maximum sustainability in commercial laundry work. ASTM’s review of TRSA BMPs verified these as the most effective and practical techniques for a laundry to achieve green objectives. TRSA members prompted development of the standard, which was vetted in the sustainability subcommittee of the ASTM Committee on Textiles. Top technical experts, scientists and environmental professionals from outside the linen, uniform and facility services industry reviewed the BMPs. ASTM is the global leader in developing and delivering voluntary consensus standards unparalleled in building consumer

confidence in product and service quality. “I applaud White Plains Linen for their ongoing sustainability efforts and maintaining the highest standards in their production and delivery operations,” said Joseph Ricci, TRSA president and CEO. “Meeting all the criteria for certification is not easy, but the company is committed to industry-leading processes and technologies.”

White Plains Linen Pro-Environment Practices Certified for Three More Years

hite Plains Linen of Peekskill, N.Y., has been recertified Clean Green, reflecting the company’s dedication to standards for operational efficiency and sustainability. The certification quantifies linen, uniform and facility services’ environmentally friendly performance by confirming an operation launders within TRSA-designated water and energy use thresholds; and verifies use of best management practices (BMPs) in line with the ASTM International environmental laundering standard.

White Plains Linen’s customers can be assured their tabletops, napkins, uniforms, mats and other reusable textiles are washed, dried and finished with processes that maximize sustainability and reduce greenhouse emissions. Clean Green certified operations demonstrate significant commitment to conservation and green operations through these BMPs: • Recovering heat from drained hot water and heat dispersed from the process of warming water; • Recapturing drained water from rinses for reuse; • Using environmentally friendly detergents; • Removing solids and liquids from wastewater; • Solar energy and energy-efficient lighting; • Recycling programs; • Re-routing trucks to save vehicle

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Porcher Industries to Launch New Dry Fiber Range

orcher Industries will assemble a talented team of textile, composite and chemical engineering experts in Paris to present its latest innovations at JEC World 2018.

As the composites market pursues automated processes for high-rate production, Porcher Industries’ Dry Fiber offer a new way of processing materials Out-of-Autoclave (OOA). Porcher Industries Dry Fiber is a versatile range of carbon fiber functionalized with a binder interface. Optimised for AFP-made preforms for thermoset resin infusion or injection, Dry Fiber provides similar component properties to conventional prepreg stacking, enabling the high speed production of complex shaped parts with >>P59

...WORLD <<P58 outstanding buy-to-fly ratio. The technology uses a cost-effective one-step-process to impregnate the fiber. As a result, Dry Fiber can be produced in flat calibrated width for AFP or rounder non-calibrated formats for winding, with a variety of different fiber aerial weights, binder chemistries and binder rates available on request. Other features include: 100-percent continuous fiber with no splices that boasts excellent steering in high curvature AFP lay ups; no need for paper or film interleaves meaning less waste and risk of fuzzing ; good epoxy resin compatibility and a long shelf life. Porcher Sports, an innovator of lighter, safer and more durable reinforcements for sporting equipment, will showcase its GREENLITEÂŽ range of fabrics. Previously recognized with the renowned JEC Composites Innovation Award, Greenlite fabrics use low density

cellulose fibres to produce a range of reinforcements that are biodegradable, highly compatible with bio-resins and suitable for large volume manufacturing of bio-based composite sporting goods such as skiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, snowboards, rackets and bike frames. As well as their contribution to sustainability, Greenlite composites exhibit exceptional vibration dampening characteristics, improving comfort and reducing fatigue in all performance sport applications. Porcher Industries will be showing its full range of technical textile composite solutions for the automotive sector from woven fabrics, to PiPreg thermoplastic prepreg materials and pre-consolidated cured laminates. Furthermore, we will be showcasing an enhanced Thermoplastic portfolio with the newly introduced PolyPreg, a co-mingled glass & polypropylene fabric. These solutions offered are available for the most demanding applications in vehicle manufacturing.

Following on with the success stories from other textile solutions and with the technology synergies with aerospace composites, Porcher is aiming to use its strength, knowledge and experience to drive further development of innovative composite solutions for the automotive industry. The Porcher Industries building team will showcase a comprehensive range of Glass, Carbon and Glass/Carbon hybrids including unidirectional carbon fabrics, plain Weaves, and Carbon/ Glass Hybrids for the construction market. These high performance reinforcements are used in applications such as the strengthening and repair of concrete columns, beams and floors. In addition, Porcher Industries has now added a non-combustible line of FLAMLINE glass fabrics to their Building Business Unit. Flamline fabrics are used when the highest levels of fire, smoke and toxicity protection >>P60

59 MARCH 2018 COMMUNION

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Superior Linen Supply Recertified Hygienically Clean

ansas City, Mo.-based Superior Linen Supply has again achieved Hygienically Clean Healthcare certification, reflecting their commitment to best management practices (BMPs) in laundering as verified by on-site inspection and their capability to produce hygienically clean textiles as quantified by ongoing microbial testing.

The laundry was first certified in 2014. Recertification confirms the organization’s continuing dedication to infection prevention, compliance with recognized industry standards and processing healthcare textiles using BMPs as described in its quality assurance documentation, a focal point for Hygienically Clean inspectors’ evaluation. The independent, third-party inspection must also confirm essential evidence that: • Employees are properly trained and protected; • Managers understand regulatory requirements; • OSHA-compliant; and • Physical plant operates effectively. To achieve certification initially, laun-

<<P59 are required in textile applications such as acoustical insulation panels, stage curtains, and upholstery interliners for furniture. The Porcher Industries Building team will also showcase textile solutions for thermal, acoustical, and solar protection across the construction market. Alongside the full range of technical textiles offered, Thermoplastic Composite materials also provide an almost limitless set of solutions within the Industrial sector. One possibility is the replacement of metallic parts, offering excellent chemical resistance without any additional surface treatment or coating. Porcher Industries Industrial will showcase long lasting high-performance Carbon/PEEK parts used in specialist pumps from the chemical production industry. COMMUNION MARCH 2018 60

dries pass three rounds of outcomebased microbial testing, indicating that their processes are producing Hygienically Clean Healthcare textiles and diminished presence of yeast, mold and harmful bacteria. They also must pass a facility inspection. To maintain their certification, they must pass quarterly testing to ensure that as laundry conditions change, such as water quality, textile fabric composition and wash chemistry, laundered product quality is consistently maintained. Reinspection occurs every two to three years. This process eliminates subjectivity by focusing on outcomes and results that verify textiles cleaned in these facilities meet appropriate hygienically clean standards and BMPs for hospitals, surgery centers, medical offices, nursing homes and other medical facilities. Hygienically Clean Healthcare certification acknowledges laundries’ effectiveness in protecting healthcare operations by verifying quality control procedures in linen, uniform and facility services operations related to the handling of textiles containing blood and other potentially infectious materials.

Certified laundries use processes, chemicals and BMPs acknowledged by the federal Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), Centers for Medicare and Medicaid Services, Association for the Advancement of Medical Instrumentation, American National Standards Institute and others. Introduced in 2012, Hygienically Clean Healthcare brought to North America the international cleanliness standards for healthcare linens and garments used worldwide by the Certification Association for Professional Textile Services and the European Committee for Standardization. Objective experts in epidemiology, infection control, nursing and other healthcare professions work with Hygienically Clean launderers to ensure the certification continues to enforce the highest standards for producing clean healthcare textiles. “Congratulations to Superior Linen Supply on their recertification,” said Joseph Ricci, TRSA president and CEO. “This achievement proves their ongoing commitment to infection prevention and that their laundry takes every step possible to prevent human illness.”

Datacolor® Introduces Handheld Color Matching Tool

atacolor®, a global leader in color management solutions, announced the launch of ColorReader, its second portable color identification and matching tool. The new device complements Datacolor’s professional color matching device, ColorReaderPRO, and is targeted at a wider audience for an affordable price of 99 euros excluding VAT. ColorReader provides accurate and fast color selection, enabling professionals and homeowners to identify the colors of paint and everyday objects. “We hear time and time again from designers, homeowners and painters

who’ve spent a lot of time and money trying to find the perfect paint to match their color inspiration — whether it be a decorative throw pillow or even a piece of artwork. In the end, they settled for a color that still wasn’t quite right,” said Susan Bunting, product marketing manager, Datacolor. “Therefore, we set out to develop the latest product in our line of color management solutions. We wanted an easy-to-use color identification tool that is affordable for all.” Smaller than a deck of cards, ColorReader is an ultra-portable, Bluetooth® connected color >>P61

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Organo Click Launches Organo Tex®

rganoClick has for several years supplied biodegradable industrial impregnation products for textiles under the brand OrganoTex®. OrganoTex will now be launched as a textile impregnation product for consumers used for making garments and fabrics water repellent. The products will be sold as a spray-on product that is applied by hand or as a Wash-In product that is applied in a washing machine. The sales towards consumers will be made through resellers within sport, outdoor and fashion retail, with Swedish Naturkompaniet as the first reseller.OrganoTex Spray-On

and Wash-In has been developed during several years and have been designed to give good water repellancy, yet being biodegradable. The product is based on OrganoClick’s patented and awarded technology for modification of textile fibers and and is totally free from the problematic perfluorinated compounds (PFAS), cyclic siloxanes and isocyanates that is often used in textile impregnations. Several

<<P60 selection device that works in conjunction with the ColorReader mobile app to precisely identify colors based on the NCS® 1950 and RAL® Classic, Design and Effect color standards. Users can create and manage color palettes by saving and sharing paint colors.“With more than 45 years of industry expertise and a shared passion for color, Datacolor understands just how important it is for paint and design profession-

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of these chemicals is thought to be cancerogenic and hormone disruptive, as well as bioaccumulative in nature.”We are very proud that we after several years of research and development, now can launch an eco-friendly, safe textile impregnation for consumers with high functionality,” said Mårten Hellberg, CEO OrganoClick AB. “With Naturkompaniet as our first reseller on the Swedish market, we reach exactly the group of environmentally conscious outdoor loving consumers that has a great need of water repellent garments but also want to take care of the environment. We will now continue to roll out the product to other resellers during the year.”Naturkompaniet is a leading Swedish outdoor retailer with more than 30 stores in Sweden and is a part of the Fenix Outdoor group which also own brands such as Fjällräven and Tierra. OrganoTex Spray-On and Wash-In will be sold in all stores from April 2018. als to be confident with color,” Bunting continued. “As the most accurate device in the market, ColorReader has the potential to improve brand loyalty and increase sales.” With industry-leading color matching performance, ColorReader saves users valued time and money by matching color instantly and accurately, removing the subjective guesswork that comes with traditional fan decks — a key differentiator for professionals looking to grow their businesses. R

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MagnaColours® Updates Range with New Migration Eliminator

agnaColours®, manufacturer of water-based screen-printing inks, has launched a new anti-migration blocker. MagnaPrint® Migration Eliminator V2 is designed to prevent the bleeding of inks throughout the printing process, and was officially unveiled at the recent ISS Long Beach show.The product is a develop-

ment on a previous Migration Eliminator created by Magna, and boasts superior bleed blocking of PVC and phthalate free water-based inks, for use on polyester and polycotton blend fabrics. Helen Parry, managing director, MagnaColours®, said: “Magna are at the forefront of innovation of waterbased inks and products. We pride

ourselves on creating inks that meet the needs of screen-printers, so that they continue getting the very best results, and don’t need to resort to using chemical-based inks. Part of this is ensuring that we continue to innovate and improve on what’s already out there, including our own product range.” “This new product builds upon our existing Migration Eliminator, providing greater performance benefits, and its launch has been welcomed by the industry. This is just one way we’re ensuring that our products perform as well as, if not better than plastisol inks, meaning there’s no reason not choose water-based.”

As well as its superior blocking performance, Migration Eliminator V2 is slow drying, making it easier to print with, and it provides a softer handle than the previous version. When printing with the new ink, screen-printers will benefit from improved coverage, opacity, flexibility and wash fastness. Magna showcased the new ink at the recent ISS Long Beach event, using it to print a range of designs on their stand. At the show, they also launched their new EDGE ink, and their revolutionary new initiative, Make the Switch, which aims to help make the transition to using water-based inks simple and painless for screen-printers.

Lenzing Enters New Phase with Launch Of TENCEL™

he Lenzing Group today redefined TENCEL™, as its textile premium brand at Première Vision Paris. The redefining of the Tencel brand is a key milestone of Lenzing’s new brand strategy to enhance product brand offerings, foster connection with customers and consumers, and drive consumer demand. Tencel is well positioned to be a major growth engine in the textile sector, with a brand portfolio that caters for distinctive usage — Tencel Active, Tencel Denim, Tencel Home, Tencel Intimate, and Tencel Luxe, all enabled by two versatile and highly compatible fibers, Tencel Modal and Tencel Lyocell.

Designed and based on the findings and insights of an extensive market research, the brand architecture is an important step for Lenzing to transform from a business-to-business (B2B) fiber producer to a business-to-business-toconsumer (B2B2C) brand. The brand architecture not only addresses the growing trend amongst retail brands and consumers to seek out for products that make them look good and feel good, but also do good via sustainable and

COMMUNION MARCH 2018 62

transparent production processes, like the processes used for producing Tencel Modal and Tencel Lyocell fibers. According to research findings, while LENZING™ Modal is known as a fiber with good quality and long-lasting exquisite softness, Tencel is a wellrecognized and appreciated brand name among stakeholders, customers and consumers in key target regions of Lenzing. Hence, Tencel is adopted as Lenzing’s textile specialty brand for apparel and home applications, and is aimed to help create a unique and differentiating brand in the Modal and Lyocell fiber markets. The redefined Tencel product brand, along with the tagline “Feels so right”, will enable Lenzing to embark on communication around messages that move beyond fiber types and characteristics towards everyday use and benefits that brands and consumers value. “With a longer-term strategy to enhance connection with customers and consumers, 2018 will be a game changer year for Lenzing,” said Robert van de

Kerkhof, Chief Commercial Officer of Lenzing Group. “Since rolling out our sCore TEN business strategy in 2015, Lenzing has been migrating into a specialty fiber business with a strong focus on innovation, quality and sustainability. The redefined Tencel brand underlines our core principles of trust, transparency, reliability and amicability, and by leading technology innovation in the textile sector, we will continue to enable our industry partners and consumers to feel good, look good and do good.” Under the new brand strategy, Tencel Modal and Tencel Lyocell fibers will be key ingredients in the Tencel branded product portfolio. Derived from certified and controlled wood sources, both Tencel Modal and Tencel Lyocell standard fibers are produced via responsible production processes and are compostable and biodegradable under industrial, home, soil and marine conditions. Enabled by industry innovations, including REFIBRA™ technology, Eco Soft technology, >>P63

...WORLD <<P62 Eco filament technology and Micro technology, textiles produced under the Tencel brand offer premium standards of sustainability and natural comfort to meet evolving consumer demand. “We are charting a bold new course to simplify our product portfolio and elevate our brand to bring more value to consumers and industry partners,” said Harold Weghorst, director of Global Brand Management. “As Lenzing’s flagship brand in the textile sector, Tencel will grow beyond fiber types and functional characteristics, it will become a true consumerfocused brand with a promise of something more functional and emotional. By elevating Tencel to a promise to the consumer rather than a product message to the value chain, we can start to excite consumers, retailers and brands about the holistic benefits of botanic fibers. Guided by the brand promise of ‘Feels so right’, Tencel brings greater degree of comfort and higher performance to consumers while making them feel good about the choices they make. We hope to create a stronger connection with the industry value chain and consumers through our expertise around sustainability, especially in Tencel Modal and Tencel Lyocell fibers. In the long run, we plan to build Tencel not only into a trusted B2B brand, but also a preferred consumer brand, which provides

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B2B customers with ease to maximize marketing effectiveness and enables consumers to identify ‘feel-good’ products made with sustainable materials.” Moving beyond fiber to distinctive everyday usage or application in consumer-focused-branded offer, Tencel Active, Tencel Denim, Tencel Home, Tencel Intimate and Tencel Luxe have been created under the Tencel portfolio. New swing tags and marketing materials will be launched on a retail level to provide clarity on product benefit claims containing Tencel branded fibers. The swing tags, along with more detailed guidelines on B2B and B2C usage, are now available on Lenzing’s new e-branding service platform, which caters to B2B customers and retail partners, offering faster, more sustainable and more user-friendly solutions for certification and licensing. “By applying the new brand strategy, we will take a more personalized and targeted approach to reflect the Tencel brand essence of ‘softness’ and ‘feeling good with a natural touch’ with B2B customers, retail partners and consumers,” added Amit Gautam, vice president of Global Business Management in Textile. “We will work closely with the industry value chain and retail brands to educate consumers about Tencel featured value propositions like product quality, functional benefits and sustainability. >>P64

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Durst Launches P5 Next-Generation Technology Platform

urst, a manufacturer of digital printing and production technologies, has launched a new printing platform — the P5 series. The first member of the family is the large format printing flagship, P5 250 HS, with shipping starting from April.

The P5 250 HS is targeted towards high volume industrial production, as well as one-offs in offset quality. P5 relates to five core features at the heart of this technology: productivity, reliability, workflow, versatility and print quality. The P5 technology consists of a series of new generation printers along with newly, in-house developed software and workflow solutions. The family also has state of the art, touch operation based userinterfaces and leading-edge remote service capabilities. Everything is aimed and streamlined to maximize performance and uptime of the printing family, along with unparalleled flexibility in media and job handling. Durst’s iconic industrial design, which was originally developed by the famous Ottl Eicher, has gone a further step with the P5. A design studio from Munich canvassed opinions from many customers and operators with a view to integrating their wishes into a new concept. This has been achieved for the P5 — and feedback will be incorporated into many Durst product <<P63 Co-branding programs such as swing tags or packaging, and co-marketing campaigns with retail brands will enable us to reach out to consumers directly. With more brand exposure and ongoing consumer education from this year onwards, consumers will see more of us through the Tencel brand in apparel and home textiles and/or in our partners’ retail outlets in different regions.” The redefining of Tencel as Lenzing’s textile flagship brand will be effective from today onwards. This will be the first step of Lenzing’s new brand exercise, where the same approach will also apply to nonwoven and industrial applications, which will be announced at a later stage. E-mail:gaurav.gheewala@yahoo.in

lines in the future. When compared to the industry benchmark — Durst P10 250 HS — the new P5 is 70 percent more productive. Featuring latest MEMS nozzle plates powered by Durst proprietary data-path and electronics, the result is a high-speed printing system with ultra precise drop placement and industrial level reliability. Durst P5 technology features: • Print volume capability in two-pass mode up to 240 sqm/h and high resolution modes of 1200 dpi; • Offset printing quality with a drop-size of 5 pcl; • Durst Analytics information platform for pre-emptive maintenance and detailed machine and consumption data to guarantee maximum uptime; and • Durst Workflow, which provides an in-house developed suite of applications custom tailored for Durst printers and with unique features beyond ripping. Christoph Gamper, chief executive, Durst Group, said: “The new P5 platform, including workflow software and advanced service tools, represents our key strategy to further invest into large format printing technology and further afield. We believe that there is a lot to explore in this market space and the P5 250 HS is our first statement. In an integrated world, printers need to change as well. With the P5 family we provide tools for change and profit – and our firm commitment to continue to lead the innovation in the large format market.”

Stoll, Myant Collaborate On Smart Textiles

ermany-based H. Stoll AG & Co. KG has announced a collaboration with Toronto-based Myant Inc., an innovation company with a focus on designing, developing and producing connected textile-based products using printed technologies and fiber science. The partnership aims to populate >>P66

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WORLD... <<P64 functional computing textile manufacturing in the United States and

Canada with 500 state-of-the-art Stoll knitting machines to advance the research, development and engineering of functional computing textiles.“Our collaboration with Myant represents a completely

new approach to smart textiles,” said Andreas Schellhammer, CEO, Stoll. “The demand for smart fabrics has never been higher as companies race to create garments, wearables, industrial, defense, healthcare and household items to connect humans to the Internet of Things. Myant is leading the creation of a new economy in functional computing textiles with Stoll machines. They have the vision and the right

interdisciplinary team to make this a global revolution.” “Myant and Stoll are taking a big step to democratize manufacturing and resuscitate a ‘making’ culture in Canada and the U.S.,” said Tony Chahine, CEO and founder, Myant. “Our goal is to reduce the barriers to entry in textile innovation and production and promote collaboration between scientists, doctors, engineers, designers, students, and anyone with a creative idea. I believe that true innovation is only possible when the inventor can actually make the invention. The Stoll machines will have a massive impact on commercialization in the smart textile industry, which is in need of disruption, and will help to speed up the prototyping to production cycle.”

HeiQ technology in drag-reduced bob suits

he Swiss textile technology innovator HeiQ and one of the world’s leading premium ski brands KJUS sponsored the tailor-made leading-edge bob suits during the first Cristal Da Glatsch bobsled race to support the oldest and only natural bobsleigh track in the world. The race took place on the Olympia Bob Run St.Moritz-Celerina in the Engadine Valley, Switzerland. Likewise, the software solution provider Comitas and the high-speed internet provider Mia Engiadina have cooperatively supported this speed driven event. The CEOs of HeiQ, KJUS, Comitas and Mia Engiadina, put themselves forward as participants and shared bobsleds with experienced Swiss world champions, like Marcel Rohner and Cla Mosca, to race downhill at more than 130 km/h. To support this great Swiss tradition, HeiQ and KJUS, sponsored the tailor-made bob suits for this event. Skin-tight and aerodynamic suits are essential for the race to reduce drag on the way into the bob and down the run. The gear has been designed to combine a drag reduction performance with a comfortable fit enabled by a HeiQ finishing technology minimising air resistance and enhanced quick dry properties. “A state of play is critical to innovation. It’s no wonder that an event like this led to all sorts of (crazy) ideas in the HeiQ Mfg. & Wholeseller of: All Kind of Laces, Cotton Nets Tapes Fringes etc.

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team’s heads. If I was going to sit in a bobsled I wanted to do it with gear that really lets me maximise speed,” explained Carlo Centonze, CEO of HeiQ. “Upgrading apparel with textile technologies is what we excel in here at HeiQ, so we were in the enviable position of being able to customise limited edition drag-reduced bob suits.” Having in mind another idea, he added right after the race: “It was really cold. We need to add heating technology to this textile.” “Sports, the mountains and the desire to always strive for perfection, are part of who we are. At KJUS, we’re always working towards the future of ski apparel. Speed is one of the goals we work towards, besides functionalities such as light-weight, breathability and warmth. We were delighted to support this event,” said Nico Serena, CEO of KJUS. All sponsors who supported the race were overwhelmed by each participant’s bravery and enthusiasm. André Brühlmann, CEO of Comitas and founder of Cristal Da Glatsch, commented: “This was exactly what I was hoping for when I decided to found Cristal Da Glatsch. It didn’t take me long to completely fall in love with this old winter tradition and I wanted to do my part in supporting it and providing other people with the same opportunity.”Jon Erni, CEO of Mia Engiadina, heads the only one of the four >>P67

...WORLD

Reebok introduces new Fast Flexweave running shoe

global fitness lifestyle brand Reebok has released Fast Flexweave, a dynamic running shoe built with Flexweave – an innovative technology that boasts the coveted balance of lightness, durability, fit and stability. The Fast Flexweave shoe is said to provide the ultimate combination of fit and performance, ideal for a wide variety of quick-burst workouts and speed drills. The figure-8 construction of the Flexweave material allows for ‘zones’ throughout the shoe that deliver a unique combination of front-of-the-foot flexibility, midfoot stabilisation, and breathability – all with a seamless, street-ready look that doesn’t sacrifice style, the company explains. “Innovation should never come at the sacrifice of performance or aesthetic, and with the Fast Flexweave, we’re setting a new standard,” said Scott Daley, General Manager at Reebok. “Flexweave is going to be a major part of the Reebok DNA

moving forward and represents a huge step forward in footwear technology.” Flexweave is the latest offering from the Reebok Innovation Collective, a dedicated unit within Reebok comprised of product experts and key brand collaborators focused on the pursuit of progression via innovation and partnerships. Through the Reebok Innovation Collective, Reebok continues to develop footwear and apparel of the next generation, highlighting technical performance and expression. Flexweave material will appear in performance and Reebok Classics products throughout 2018 and beyond, including the Reebok CrossFit Nano 8 and more. The Reebok Fast Flexweave is now available in introductory colourways. The shoe and the Flexweave campaign are being supported by Reebok brand ambassadors, such as Ariana Grande, Brandin Cooks, Devonta Freeman and Luis Badillo Jr.

<<P66 companies that is actually situated in the Engadine Valley. “We are proud of making things faster for the Engadine Valley

by providing a high-speed internet connection. So, you can imagine how much fun I had celebrating speed with faster bob suits on the Olympia Bob Run,” he said.

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Stäubli debuts automatic drawing-in machine in Turkey

täubli, a leading high-speed textile machinery manufacturer, is looking forward to meeting with visitors of the ITM textile machinery exhibition, which takes place in Istanbul, Turkey, The company will present its latest machinery solutions for the weaving and knitting industries.

“Even though the Turkish textiles manufacturing market is currently facing a challenging situation in terms of worldwide competition, the Turkish weaving industry remains an important importer of high quality shirting fabrics, denim, as well as carpets,” the company explains.“As an industry partner, Stäubli constantly analyses customers’ most important needs and integrates solutions in the development of its new products. Working in this way, we offer an extensive machinery range that provides mills with increased advantages in terms of reliability, long service life and versatility in application.”

yarn types for denim, bed linen, and shirting fabrics, as well as fabrics for leisure wear. Built of a mobile drawing in machine serving one or more stationary drawing in stations, the machine

Other highlights

high speeds, the LX Jacquard machine is said to allow mills to weave sophisticated fabrics for virtually any applica-

The third generation of Stäubli’s rotary dobbies, the S3060/3260 series, can be seen at the Stäubli stand and the booths of many other weaving machine manufacturers with different applications. The D4S automatic toe-closing device will be presented on a circular sock knitting machine. Visitors can experience how the time consumption in the sock knitting process can significantly be reduced.Carpet samples showing “perfect surfaces and clear designs” will also be on display.

Tzuyang Yu and Prof Pradeep Kurup of the Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, along with Prof Xingwei Wang of the Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering, are collaborating with researchers from Saint-Gobain, a multinational corporation with an R&D centre based in Northborough to develop fabrics integrated with optical fibres and

sensors. These sensing fabrics can be applied to existing structures to monitor strain or detect cracks in their early stages, thereby minimising maintenance costs, environmental impacts and disruptions to the people’s lives and businesses, according to the researchers. In 2016, the American Society of Civil Engineers gave >>P69

offers compact space requirements and versatile layout possibilities. This machine will be shown in combination with a Stäubli harness. Built with high-quality materials and designed to perform with utmost precision at very

SAFIR S40 drawing in machine

At the ITM, weavers can see live in Turkey for the first time the Safir S40 automatic drawing-in machine dedicated to coarse and middle

tion – from colourful African damask to OPW (one piece woven-) airbags, to terry towel, the company explains. Stäubli also offers a Jacquard machinery series for ribbons and labels. At ITM, the model LX12 can be seen. Easy to adapt and versatile, it is suitable for all types of needle looms and allows a straightforward access for making machine adjustments. It is suitable for weaving labels, decorative ribbons, trimmings or elastic ribbons for lingerie.

Sensing fabrics to prevent failures in vital infrastructure

team of UMass Lowell researchers has partnered with a research and development company to create new, cost-effective sensor-laden textiles that can be used to monitor the structural health and integrity of vital infrastructures across the country, including buildings and skyscrapers, roadways, bridges, tunnels, railway tracks, dams and pipelines.

UMass Lowell team leader Assoc. Prof

COMMUNION MARCH 2018 68

...WORLD <<P70 America’s infrastructures an overall grade of D+, indicating they urgently need major repairs and improvements to make them safe, sustainable and economically efficient. The new textiles aim to contribute toward that effort. “Optical fibre sensors are very suitable for structural health monitoring due to their lightweight, low-cost, survivability in harsh environments and immunity to electromagnetic environments,” said Wang, a Shrewsbury resident. “More importantly, they can provide fully distributed sensing information about an object’s structural integrity. Combined with novel textile technology, the sensing fabrics will be relatively easy to install and maintain. They will be very useful for long-distance sensing applications.” The project is supported by an US$ 853,000 grant from the Advanced Functional Fabrics of America (AFFOA), which is part of the National Network of Manufacturing Innovation Institutes. AFFOA’s mission is to enable the manufacturing industry to transform traditional fibres, yarns and textiles into highly functional integrated and networked devices and systems. In addition, the Commonwealth of Massachusetts awarded the researchers a US$ 550,000 grant through the Massachusetts Manufacturing Innovation Initiative (M2I2). “The unique sensing capability of our proposed fabric will

enable engineers to better predict the structural health of civil infrastructures and assist decision makers and stakeholders to better distribute limited resources for infrastructure repair, rehabilitation or rebuild,” said Prof Yu, who lives in Andover. Corrosion, one of the issues causing deterioration of infrastructure, does US$ 13.6 billion in damage to highway bridges annually, according to the National Association of Corrosion Engineers. “The use of our proposed sensing textiles can help proactively assess the structural integrity of concrete and steel bridges,” said Prof Yu. There are more than 470 tunnels located around the US and millions of miles of oil, gas and water pipes, according to Kurup, who said maintenance of all of these represents significant challenges for those responsible. For example, he said, the American Water Works Association estimates US$ 1 trillion will be needed over the next two decades to implement much-needed repairs and upgrades. The team’s sensing textile will allow engineers to detect damages early on, thereby preventing catastrophic failures, Kurup says. Yu says that the development of the sensing fabrics will also create new business with the manufacturing, installation and maintenance of the fabrics, as well as the processing and analysis of the sensor data. “This research project combines two traditional industries – textiles and construction – >>P70

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New C8 free oil repellent coating

ano-Care Deutschland, a leading specialist in the production of ready-to-use high-tech coatings and their precursors, has developed a new Nanoflex F-Bond coating system for water and oil repellency. “Removal of C8 fluorocarbon technology, which will be banned due to its emissions of PFOS and PFOA, leaves a significant performance gap in the market,” said Oliver Sonntag, NanoCare Director. “The great challenge for us has been to retain existing high standards of oil repellency – whilst eliminating long-chain fluorination. We have solved this problem by creating a special silicon dioxide backbone.” The Nanoflex F-Bond, marketed under the umbrella brand Intelligent Hybrids, is based on liquid concentrates and is applied using common industrial dipping methods. For many years, there has been strong pressure for innovation in the textile finishing sector to meet increasing regulation and ecological demands. As a spin-off from the Leibniz Institute for New Materials (INM), Nano-Care Deutschland sees a market potential amounting to the hundreds of millions of Euros. “Our particular focus is on military, work-wear and health sectors which have to satisfy especially high-performance requirements and currently have only temporary permission to use C8 technologies. Their elimination – particularly outside the European Union – is an important step towards achieving <<P69 to create innovative sensor and sensing system products for the aging infrastructure problem faced by all countries in the world,” said Prof Yu. “We envision that this Massachusettsbased R&D effort will expand the local economy by creating new products to address a critical need nationwide, as well as strengthen the technical edge of the US in today’s globally competitive market.” Scientists, engineers, interns and co-ops at Saint-Gobain will be trained in this emerging technology, the team said.

ecological sustainability in the textiles industry,” explained Mr Sonntag. Nano-Care Deutschland has been developing innovative coatings for textiles and other surfaces since 2000. On reorganising its corporate structure at the beginning of 2018, the new Textile Effects’ department will develop further specialisation in the sector. Specifically, the company partners private label clients, be they manufacturers of surface coatings, distributors of chemical products or users of high-tech surface finishes. Currently, the company served companies and consumers in more than 65 countries.

Loepfe introduces new quality control feature

oepfe, a manufacturer of sensors and monitoring equipment for yarn spinning and fabric weaving processes, has developed a new optional feature in the yarn clearer YarnMaster Zenit+. According to the manufacturer, the OffColor detection is able to detect and eliminate very small colour and shade variations in the yarn during the winding process. The new feature uses the F-Sensor, which is already integrated in the YarnMaster Zenit+. Therefore, spinning mills, which already use the yarn clearer for quality control during winding, can update their devices with this new functionality. Mélange yarns and colour-effect yarns are a growing trend in the garment industry. In order to have an optimum mélange yarn, the fibres have to be mixed carefully in the right proportions at the beginning of the spinning process. Even small shade variations or colour deviations of the yarns may result in poor quality of the fabric after knitting or weaving. Another common reason for poor quality can arise during the winding process, where bobbins with >>P71

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...WORLD <<P70 similar looking colour or shades are accidentally mixed up. Shade variations may be visible as disturbing stripes in the final product. Depending on the fabric and on the magnitude of the variation, the final quality might be so poor, that the fabric cannot be used at all. “Complaints about yarn quality can be expensive for the spinning mill,” the company says.The new OffColor detection has been extensively tested with a large number of bobbins with mélange yarn. The bobbins, which have been made available by a customer, had the same colour, but small shade variations as the black portion of the mélange yarn varied slightly from dark to light grey. During the test runs, which have been conducted at Loepfe´s headquarters in Wetzikon, Switzerland, the YarnMaster Zenit+ with the new optional OffColor feature was able to detect even the smallest shade varia-

tions very reliably, the company reports. All other functions of the yarn clearer have been disabled during the tests. “This is the ultimate proof that the new functionality works properly,” said the manufacturer. The new feature does not depend on the colour of the yarn. In addition to the tests conducted at Loepfe´s headquarters, some clients have tested the new functionality during normal operation in the spinning mill, confirming the reliability of the new feature.“The new YarnMaster Zenit+ with the OffColor feature is an absolute must for spinning mills, which are aiming for constantly high quality in the production of mélange yarns or coloured yarns,” said Gianni Heusser, Product Manager at Loepfe. The new feature makes the YarnMaster Zenit+ yarn clearer even more versatile. It is able to ensure high quality output at a spinning mill, by eliminating all yarn faults during the winding process.”

Suominen initiates new growth investment

uominen, a leading nonwovens producer, has decided to initiate a new growth investment project of around EUR 6 million in its production plant in Green Bay, WI, US. The investment involves installation of new carding machinery. With this, the company aims to improve the capabilities of the plant and further support Suominen in the development and supply of new innovative products. Once upgraded, the production line will, for its part, improve Suominen’s capability to supply high value-added nonwovens for home care, personal care and workplace wipes, as well as for hygiene applications, all categories where Suominen seeks to grow. Moreover, the investment >>P72

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New anti-counterfeiting sewing thread platform

pplied DNA Sciences has announced that it is collaborating with American & Efird (A&E), one of the world’s leading manufacturers and distributors of industrial and consumer sewing thread, embroidery thread, and technical textiles, to utilize its CertainT platform to develop secure sewing threads for brand protection.“The CertainT Program is an innovative solution for brands and retailers in their supply chain. A&E and Applied DNA Sciences together are creating new security applications for sewing thread benefitting from revolutionary SigNature T DNA and Beacon technol-

ogy. Our customers are increasingly more vigilant and security minded. DNA technology can protect a wide range of products, from luxury consumer brands to industrial applications where integrity of components is mission critical,” said Les Miller, CEO, A&E. “We are excited to be collaborating with Applied DNA Sciences and developing cutting edge technology solutions for our customers.” A&E has a long history of leading the thread industry, particularly working with the US government to ensure supply of Berry Amendment-compliant products, industrial and consumer brands that

require stricter controls on product quality and integrity and working with stakeholders globally to ensure they meet their corporate sustainability goals. “Many products, from running shoes, to performance athleisure wear, to luxury brands, can benefit from a secure sewing thread. A&E’s extensive portfolio of products combined with the CertainT platform provide a powerful opportunity to provide a trusted solution for customers who need a true anti-counterfeiting brand protection solution,” said Dr. James Hayward, president and CEO of Applied DNA.

New branding identity for Lectra

ectra, a technological partner for companies using fabrics and leather, has unveiled a new branding identity that aims to demonstrate the digital orientation of Lectra’s strategy, created to support fashion and apparel, automotive and furniture companies to successfully flourish with Industry 4.0 concepts. Designed with the agency ComCorp, Lectra’s new branding universe reflects the company’s continuing evolution and accentuates its role as a trailblazer on the eve of the fourth industrial revolution, the company explains. “The redesigned branding universe strongly evokes innovation inscribed in Lectra’s DNA, and leverages the company’s four values: Caring, Committed, Insightful and Visionary,” it says.

“Lectra’s new branding identity is a same. They serve as a reminder of direct reflection of the company’s Lectra’s loyalty towards its customers evolving strategy, its expertise and rich and aim to be their indispensable history,” said Alexis Noal, vice-presipartner of choice for technology. dent, ComCorp. “The new branding is The tagline Empowering customers the fruit of a close collaboration with through industrial intelligence confirms Lectra’s teams, at every level, and Lectra’s commitment to provide nourished through our recent exchang- customers with the means to es with Lectra’s customers and achieve partners.” their Modern and elegant, ambiom tions. .c 1 d the new logo 7 137 urpvtlt 437 p /094 cestiru 771 expresses the Con717 rtechla 3 4 e 94 p 0 u b s: M ww.s eatil om w D premium positioning stantly alert to r .c Fo ces chla erte .sup of Lectra and underindustrial trends impacting w w w lines the evolution of customers’ sectors, Lectra designs Lectra’s offer through data analysis. solutions to support customers in the The square pixels in Lectra’s new digital age, facilitating their transition graphic charter are a visual reflection towards the industry of tomorrow. of the company’s digital direction. A pioneer in the industrial Internet of However, the colours remain the Things since 20017, and actively

<<P71 offers more efficient supply of nonwovens for baby wipes for Suominen’s customers.“The investment again demonstrates that we are serious about growth, in line with our Changemaker strategy,” explained Nina Kopola, President & CEO. “This is a clear upgrade to Suominen’s current produc-

tion technology base, expanding our product offering globally and increasing our production capacity. In the long run, we can increase the share of nonwovens with high value added coming out of the Green Bay plant.” Suominen manufactures nonwovens as roll goods for wipes, as well as for medical and hygiene products. The end

COMMUNION MARCH 2018 72

products made of Suominen’s nonwovens include wet wipes, feminine care products and swabs, for instance. Suominen is a market leader in nonwovens for wipes and employs more than 650 people in Europe and in the Americas. Suominen’s net sales in 2017 amounted to EUR 426.0 million and operating profit to EUR 15.0 million.

...WORLD engaged on the path towards Industry 4.0, Lectra places the collection and analysis of data at the heart of its offer. The notion of industrial intelligence is pivotal to the implantation of a digital value chain for customers, enabling the real-time inter-connection between design and product development teams, the smart factory, suppliers and consumers. “2017 was one of the most passionate years for Lectra, starting with the announcement of a new strategy designed to help our customers successfully enter the Industry 4.0 era. The strategy totally inspired us when we revamped all the fundamentals of the brand. Lectra’s new branding identity, which we are delighted to unveil today, expresses the company’s dynamism, its audacious vision and the driving ambition to support customers,” said Céline Choussy Bedouet, Chief Marketing and Communications Officer.

Rethinking textiles with 3D printing

ashion designer Frances Murphy, an ambassador for CREATE Education and technology partner, Ultimaker, has used 3D print technology to interpret traditional textile structures and experiment with materials, such as silk, to develop

weave and print, and how these could be interpreted through 3D print technology and materials, while still preserving the original aesthetics traditional textiles lend themselves to. Invested in the idea of expanding into textiles in a different way, in terms of print and application, Frances initially conducted research on designers, architects and engineers to form a deeper understanding of how 3D printing works. However, when it came to putting this knowledge into practice, she was confronted with barriers. She approached the collaboration platform, CREATE Education and technology partner Ultimaker, who were willing to sponsor the research and provide Frances with her own dedicated 3D printer. With their >>P74

different and new aesthetic print techniques.

With over fifteen years’ experience in the luxury fashion and textiles industry, selling textile print collections to high profile stores worldwide, Frances has always tried to explore what sits at the forefront of technology in a bid to keep up with the demanding fashion market. In 2017, she embarked upon a project to rethink and develop fresh textiles processes. Studying for a Master’s degree at the Royal College of Art, Frances looked at traditional textile structures, such as knit,

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WORLD... <<P73 aid, the fashion designer has been able to practically experiment with different materials, such as silk, to develop different and new aesthetic print techniques. Within the wider context of 3D printing, Frances is examining the use of bioplastic and cellulose based materials and how these can be used to develop 3D printed textiles. Collaborating with practitioners who are developing recycled materials such as nylon, TPU, PLA for 3D printers, Frances aims to get consumers thinking about what they are purchasing, and how much goes into the making process. She hopes that raising customers’

awareness of the production process will encourage people to think differently about the sourcing and manufacturing of individual products. Appointed as an ambassador for the CREATE Education project, Frances is able to connect to the online desktop 3D printing community, providing a platform for her to educate consumers on her processes, and allowing her to analyse how the community is engaging with her 3D printed textile ideas. With the ability to contribute to the evolution of additive manufacturing, Frances has the opportunity to develop a 3D process that can be shared in a commercial market. With 3D printers becoming ever more accessible, Frances Murphy is currently

exploring opportunities to engage with students and communities, opening up their minds to the possibilities of 3D printing within the fashion industry. From visiting tech labs to developing mini lab set ups in schools and across communities, Frances strives to pioneer a new and more meaningful culture towards materials. “The possibilities of 3D printing in the textiles industry are boundless, and although we are yet at the stage where garments can be fully 3D printed in the home, with the help of Frances Murphy positive steps are being made towards a revolutionised, circular fashion and textiles industry,” said CREATE Education.

Hugotag achieves zero defects with Monforts stenter

ccording to Monforts, its Montex 8500 stenter is providing major benefits for Hugotag, a specialist French finisher of silk fabrics to many of the world’s most prestigious luxury brands. Now a member of the Chanel Group, the company represents the merging five years ago of two former silk businesses – Tag, founded in 1974 in Fourneaux, close to Lyon, and Hugo Soie, a St Etienne-based company with a 200-year history.

The company invested in the new technology following the merger and consolidation of the companies at the Fourneaux site, including advanced digital printing machines, as well as the installation of a finishing line centred on the latest Monforts Montex 8500 stenter and a Matex padder. The five-chamber Montex 8500 machine at the Fourneaux plant is equipped with newly-developed 24-inch visualisation monitors, providing total, intuitive automation and surveillance via the Monforts Qualitex 800 system. “It’s an excellent machine. The key parameters for us include homogenous drying over the length and width of the machine and precise control of the tension of the fabric, because the silk COMMUNION MARCH 2018 74

has a natural elasticity, even without the addition of elastane. The Monforts stenter allows us to completely control the tension from the fabric entry right through to the winding machines – and we have special units for winding onto small rolls too,” said Hugotag Director General Philippe Magat. “The fabrics are very delicate and require a sensitive treatment when being pinned into the stentering chain, as well as very gentle drying – without the fabrics ever touching the nozzles and with absolutely no air turbulence in the dryer.” “The humidity of the air inside the stenter is crucial for ensuring a perfect quality fabric feel,” said French representative for Monforts, Christophe Monel, of Monel Industrie Services. Hugotag is finishing some very fine silk fabrics – sheer muslins that can be as light as 14 gsm, along with chiffons, and heavier satins and twills. The weights of the more delicate fabrics are usually between 20-50 gsm and produced in average widths of 90 cm to a maximum of 1.9 m on the 3.2-m wide Monforts finishing range. As a result of the specialist nature of

handling such delicate fabrics, the Monforts line has been equipped with a number of additional features, including special needle chain devices for dealing with knitted silk fabrics, a steamer unit, a computerised weft-straightening device and associated controls, and a horizontal combined chain. The stentering chain is completely sealed – to avoid any grease or oil coming into contact with the fabrics at any time – and fitted with long-lasting lubricated bearings, the company reports. Special attention has also been paid to energy recovery, with low energy consumption IE3 motors and the integration of a full heat recovery system into the line. Philippe Magat confirmed that this is now providing Hugotag with significant energy savings. Like its equally famous counterpart in Italy – Como – Lyon has historically been associated with silk fabric production, and all of Hugotag’s fabrics are still woven locally. Piece-dyeing was introduced in Lyon and became an industrial process in the mid-18th century and for a long time remained a speciality of the region. Screen-printing is meanwhile sometimes >>P75

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FESPA launches new fashion textile feature F ESPA has announced the launch of Print Make Wear, a new, interactive visitor feature designed to replicate a fast fashion factory. Print Make Wear will be free to attend for registered visitors to FESPA Global Print Expo 2018, which takes place at Messe Berlin, Germany, from 15-18 May 2018. The feature, focused exclusively on fashion textiles, garments and printed accessories, takes the form of a live production environment highlighting every step in the screen and digital printing production process, from initial design to finished product. It will bring together collaborators from all areas of the printed fashion sector, including fashion brand owners, designers, garment printers and producers, to explore the latest production possibilities, exchange experiences and share knowledge in the interests of a more sustainable fashion

value chain. Demonstrating an integrated, end-to-end production environment, the Print Make Wear fast fashion factory will feature a screen-printing carousel, washing and drying equipment, digital direct-to-garment printing, cutting and sewing, and solutions for welding and embellishment. The following technology and materials brands are already confirmed participants in the feature: Premier Textiles, Magna Colours, Brother, Juki and Vastex. In addition, design and technology experts from the contributing exhibitors will be on hand. A live fashion catwalk will add the Wear element, enabling visitors to see garments and accessories produced in the Print Make Wear factory. The items to be produced in Print Make Wear are being designed by Sandra Zomer >>P76

<<P74 known as a la lyonnaise because Lyon is acknowledged as the first region to industrialise the process during this same period. And although there still remain other silk finishers in France, Hugotag is one of only two to carry out the degumming of the silk fabrics using Marseilles Soap – a chemical-free formula-

tion based on 100% olive oil. “It’s a very specific treatment and because the fabric is so very delicate it’s very difficult to do on an industrial machine, but we can now do it successfully,” said Philippe Magat. “More than anything, however, zero defects are our objective, and this is something the new highly-automated and computerised Monforts line is allowing us to achieve.”

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<<P75 from the Netherlands, a FESPA Young Star Award winner, who now works for renowned fashion designer Julien MacDonald. Daily seminar sessions will also take place within Print Make Wear, giving leading fashion designers, brand owners and producers a platform to present the latest trends, technologies and case studies. The seminars will cover topics including: Colour separation and image output; Screen making; Ink terminology; Speciality ink; Fabric

challenges; and Advanced machine printing.“Trend data from Smithers Pira shows that the printed textile market today equates to around 30 billion square metres and that, in 2016, printed textile for clothing accounted for half of the total textile industry by volume. Recognising the growth in digital textile printing in recent years, FESPA has been consistently expanding its textile proposition for visitors. Print Make Wear builds on this commitment, focusing specifically on the growth opportunity

within so-called fast fashion,” commented Neil Felton, FESPA CEO. Since 2008, FESPA has invested to expand coverage of textile printing across its event portfolio, making textile the fastest growing segment represented within FESPA Global Print Expo. Ten years later, at FESPA 2018, there will be two halls dedicated to textile printing, enabling visitors to explore a multitude of textile-related production and workflow technologies, materials and inks. “The fashion and sportswear industry is transitioning rapidly from old-world, supply-led production cycles dependent on traditional analogue techniques, to a demand-centric digitally-enabled production landscape,” said Duncan MacOwan, Head of Events at FESPA. “For FESPA 2018 visitors with aspirations in textile, the addition of this unique live Print Make Wear production environment, supported by the interactive product showcase and expert knowledge-sharing sessions, will elevate awareness of the latest technical developments and highlight the product innovations they enable.”

Roica presents premium stretch sports innovations

ome of the latest Summer 2018 ranges of active sports brands have used the specialised families of Roica Premium Stretch innovations by a Japan based company Asahi Kasei to transform their products with hi-tech smarts and eco-responsible technology. “Together, these brands show the importance and reality of new, smart and responsible materials for the twentyfirst century. They bring to life new ideas that fit the supply chain for our target consumer confirming a clear brand identity that redefines performance creativity,” the company said. Chervò is showing a new range of women’s golf wear, using the Roica Colour Perfect family of stretch yarn, and the material is made by Maglificio Ripa for coordinated sets of polo shirt

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and skirt combinations matching smooth plains with geometric laser cut decorations. Maloja, an outdoor speciality brand with its roots in nature and wellbeing, is presenting many lines using Roica, including a new mid layer technical x-country ski set with fabrics from Miti, using the GRS certified Roica EcoSmart family of responsible stretch yarns. Safetti used fabric innovations from Penn Textile Solutions, featuring the Roica Eco-Smart family, in a range of garments designed and manufactured for cyclists, who value garments with a “combination of fashion, innovation, high quality and exclusivity”. Safetti is also committed to a cleaner planet and brings the company to

choose smart and innovative materials for its production. The fabric by Penn Textile Solutions has gripping edge thanks to the elastomer, which also makes it completely hypoallergenic and more performing, and maximising wearability and comfort, minimising the use of seams, the company reports. Santini is presenting a multi-panel thermal bib tight for the coldest winter training. Made with the special BeHot fabric by Sitip, constructed with the Roica StretchEnergy active performance material, it insulates and generates up to two degrees of heat as you work out, as certified by CeRism, Outdoor Sport Research Centre at Verona University. The design is completed with breathable mesh braces for added comfort and a reflective pixel detail on >>P78

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Nearly 50 Percent of Brands Admit They’re Being Creepy

ith ever more sophisticated technology at the ready, brands are increasingly crossing the line into creepy behavior, says a new report. The CX intelligence provider’s “2018 CX Trends Report” found that a full 75 percent of consumers find most forms of personalization at least somewhat creepy, with 40 percent of brands admitting to being creepy. More crucial: while half of customers say they’d keep shopping with a brand

media • Almost half of consumers (46 percent) report they hesitate to give away information simply because they don’t receive value when they do • For Millennials, the biggest offenders when it comes to creepy marketing tactics are banks (with 56 percent of the generation reporting having a creepy experience), healthcare institutions (52 percent) and technology companies (51 percent)

fabric printing technology provides many benefits over traditional methods of printing fabrics for fashion design, the company reports. Those include: Brilliant Image Quality – Printing fabrics digitally produces high quality prints with virtually unlimited color and design options. Reliable Performance – In most cases, a digital textile printer can print designs on the same fabrics that designers typically screen print to in as little as seven working days, compared to weeks or even months. Design Without Limits – When printing fabrics digitally, design choices are virtually unlimited – nearly anything that can be designed on a computer can be printed onto fabrics.

Print on Virtually Any Fabric Type – Epson has a digital fabric printing solution for virtually any fabric type – from polyesters and blends to natural fibers such as silks, cotton, linen, wool, and rayon. Better for the Environment – Digital fabric printing provides significant reductions in both water and electricity consumption when compared to traditional methods of fabric printing. For many fabric printers, digital fabric printing can reduce water use by up to 90 percent and electrical usage by up to 30 percent. Affordable, Scalable Solution – Digital fabric printing offers an excellent performance-to-price ratio with reliable productivity to meet your business needs.

Epson Launches New Digital Fabric Printing Microsite for Fashion Designers

pson America introduced a new microsite, “Epson Brings Technology & Fashion Together,” dedicated to connecting digital fabric printing technology and solutions to fashion designers and entrepreneurs. The new site provides fashion designers with an informative digital fabric printing destination, offering solution-based guidance for a range of digital fabric printing applications including, dye-sublimation, direct-to-garment, and direct-to-fabric printing on a variety of fabrics. The “Epson Brings Technology & Fashion Together” microsite also connects fashion designers directly to digital fabric printers to help advance the integration of digital fabric printing technology in today’s design workflows. For fashion designers, Epson digital

after a creepy experience, 22 percent report they will leave for other brands. Other key findings from the report include: • Twenty percent of consumers report being angry after a bad experience with a brand, twice the amount that brands assume (10 percent) • One in five consumers will tell friends about experiences they deem creepy, while one in 10 will share Big Brother-type experiences on social

French elastics specialist targets new markets

his year, Interfilière Paris and Paris Capitale de la Création have recognised Cheynet, a French company, <<P78 the leg to improve visibility in low light conditions. The North Face shows a trek pant and a zip hood top made by Goldwin. Sportswear for The North Face brand uses a fabric from Asahi Kasei Advance’s collection with the Roica Contour family of durable fit providing a 4-way stretch construction. COMMUNION MARCH 2018 78

which has been specialising in elastics and yarn processing for over 70 years, with a Designer of the Year title. With a worldwide presence, the Cheynet Group serves a variety of markets with its products, including lingerie, swimwear, and corsetry, medical-grade fabrics, activewear and ready-to-wear, footwear, and men’s underwear. “We are delighted to receive this award. It is a real recognition by the profession of all the efforts made by all the teams at Cheynet, and of our truly fashion-

focused collections,” said Grégoire Giraud, CEO of Groupe Cheynet. Through its R&D department, Cheynet is perfecting a number of innovations, such as Brodex, which allows for embroidery on elastics or rigid tape. Attentive to the needs of consumers looking for the ultimate in comfort, Cheynet analyses and develops innovations, such as dual-stretch elastics that stretch both lengthwise and crosswise, allowing the company to introduce its products to new markets such as >>P79

...WORLD <<P78 ready-to-wear. The company has also mastered silicone applications. First using them for their anti-slip potential (on the back of strapless bras, inside the top of stay-up stockings), Cheynet is now developing new surface applications for this material, in a fashion-focused mode. “Since 1948, Cheynet has gained a reputation as an expert in elastics manufacturing, with its mastery of technical criteria and the quality of its products. Today, Cheynet is working to uphold this reputation and pursue its development hand in hand with our industry partners. Boldness, courage, a modern spirit, enthusiasm, and agility are the values promoted by the teams at Cheynet, so that we remain the essential supplier of elastics,” commented Anne Ménager, Marketing, Communications, and R&D Director. Beyond simple bra straps, elastics are being used in many creative ways by lingerie and fashion designers. The athleisure trend, mixing style and athletic silhouettes, has contributed to the emergence of lingerie featuring wide chest bands and high waistbands. On the ready-to-wear side, stretch waistbands add flexibility and volume to silhouettes. “Elastics hold the implicit promise of hybrid pieces that provide comfort, design, and style, as >>P80

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WORLD... <<P79 reflected in Caroline Anthon’s ingenious use of them to create offbeat styles for the Albertine brand,” the company says. “This is what happens when a lace garter from a stocking becomes a bra band, creating a deep plunge neckline.” Today, the business is shifting its portfolio to offer products for other markets. “Cheynet has successfully consolidated its position in the French lingerie market. And now, our future is clearly turned toward international markets and penetrating new markets, such as beachwear, ready-to-wear, and technical applications, for whom we now offer collections perfectly adapted to each of these target’s needs,” explained Managing Director Kerim Hellali.French business story

Cheynet, a family-owned company, was mission has been to ensure total control founded in 1949 by Jean Chenet and of the industrial and sales value chains. his sons at the heart of Saint-Just, near The Group, comprised of four compaLyon. In the first 40 years of its exisnies, is vertically integrated, from yarn tence, the company acquired new processing, to dyeing, to the finishing of equipment, expanded its industrial site, elastics,” said Grégoire Giraud. and installed several workshops along Cheynet has 200 employees, and over the way, for dyeing and weaving of 60% of its revenues come from the elastics. In 1988, Cheynet acquired lingerie sector. The company works with Berthéas & Cie, a specialist in the brands including: Chantelle, Simone fabrication of elastics for underwear Pérèle, Lise Charmel, Maison Lejaby, waistbands. La Perla, and more. It also supports In 1993 ADVERTISE WITH US the FOR DETAIL CONTACT : Cheynet 011-25891475/ 25892138/ 25894740 family email:communionadvt@gmail.com handed over the reins of the Cheynet Group to inspiring designer brands, such as PaloGrégoire Giraud. “Since I arrived to ma Casile, Ysé lingerie, Albertine, head up Groupe Cheynet, my main Unabella, and others.

Cooling fabrics market to reach $3.24 billion

he global cooling fabrics market size is expected to be worth US$ 3.24 billion by 2025, according to a new report by Grand View Research. Growing focus on fitness, sports, and leisure activities coupled with increasing health consciousness among the population all around the world is likely to propel market growth. The innumerable benefits offered by cooling garments such as moisture wicking, sweat evaporation, breathability, and ventilation have enhanced their use among the athletes. Key market players include Coolcore LLC; Kraton Corporation; Invista; Ahlstrom Corporation; Nilit Ltd.; Polartec LLC; Nan Ya Plastics Corporation; Tex-Ray Industrial Co., Ltd.; Formosa Taffeta Co., Ltd.; HexArmor; Adidas AG; and Nike, Inc. The companies mainly focus on extensive innovation and increasing their production capacities to fulfil the worldwide product demand. According to the report entitled Cooling Fabrics Market Analysis, By Type (Synthetic and Natural), By Application COMMUNION MARCH 2018 80

(Sports Apparel, Protective Wear, Lifestyle, and Others), By Region (North America, Europe, Asia Pacific, South & Central America, and MEA), And Segment Forecasts, 2014 - 2025, the demand for cooling fabrics in military and industrial applications is increasing. This is due to their benefits such as temperature regulation, resistance from harmful UV rays and pollutants, as well as the protection they provide to the wearer in case of excessive heat exposure. The augmenting demand from healthcare and fashion industries is anticipated to accelerate the market growth. Sports apparel segment is expected to account for 44.5% of the global market in 2025. The demand can be attributed to heat, moisture, and perspiration resistant, light weight, smart, and easy to carry wearables, which assist in regulating the wearer’s body temperature in line with the outside temperature. The technological advancements in the product to enhance the performance of garments are likely to fuel its demand

the forecast period. Increasing R&D activities and various government incentives are projected to accelerate the production, thereby triggering the market demand. Various EU funded projects have drawn a large number of manufacturers toward the market for the development of innovative products in an attempt to stay competitive. Additionally, these fabrics also address sustainability issues by saving energy that is required to heat or cool the environment around the wearer. North America is the leading market for cooling fabrics owing to the early adoption and augmenting sports and outdoor activities in the region. The region was valued at US$ 557.7 million in 2016 and is expected to witness a significant development on account of rising demand in sports apparel, as well as protective wear applications. Extensive R&D carried out by leading manufacturers in countries such as the US and Canada is anticipated to propel market growth. >>P81

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Ki Made introduces convertible tracksuit collection

n recent years, the nature of the fashion industry has become more and more problematic. Large businesses flood the market with high volumes of low quality products with short lifespans. As a result, fashion is now the second most environmentally damaging industry in the world, surpassed only by the oil industry. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, 15.1 million tonnes of textile waste was generated in 2013, with the average person discarding 82

<<P80 Technological advancements and innovative product developments in the region are projected to augment the market demand. Countries such as Germany, the UK, China, India, and Japan in the European and Asia Pacific regions are also rapidly developing markets for cooling fabrics.

pounds every year. Ki Made, a contemporary athletic leisurewear brand based in Toronto, Canada, has developed a built-to-last MOD system as an alternative solution to the problem of fast fashion. The company has launched its MOD system on Kickstarter, with a goal of raising US$ 3,000 to bring modular clothing to market. “As the world’s first modular clothing system, MOD is an award-winning convertible tracksuit collection that features multiple variations of modular top and pant sets,” the company explains. MOD uses premium technical fabrics, along with zipper attachments, to create a uniquely customisable experience and puts the user in control of the design. The MOD system is a recipient of the 2016 Kimel Family Campus Linked Accelerator award, a semi-finalist in the

EPIC Canada Business Model Canvas competition, a current member of the Design and Fabrication Zone at Ryerson University, and a graduate of both the City of Toronto Starter Company Grant programme and the Fashion Zone incubator. “MOD has been recognised as a one-of-a-kind solution that promotes quality, creativity, functionality, and sustainability,” the company reports. The brand’s modular system aims to provide an effective solution that delivers comfort, aesthetics, creativity, durability, efficiency, and convenience. “Most importantly, it offers a way to involve the user in the design process, an experience that is not offered by other competitive products,” says the manufacturer. The MOD system uses a specially treated polyester fabric that is infused with Chitosan, a natural, hypoallergenic

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WORLD... polymer derived from the shells of crustaceans. Chitosan is said to provide lab proven anti-microbial and anti-odour properties. Additional qualities of the fabric include SPF50 protection, advanced breathability, anti-static properties, four-way stretchability, and enhanced moisture wicking. “Ki designs and manufactures the MOD system out of a facility in Toronto, Canada, at which the highest of social, ethical, and environmental standards are upheld. As an ecoconscious company, Ki prides itself in using Chitosan, as it is one of the only treatments that is certified by the Environmental Protection Agency,” the company reports. MOD is a low-maintenance system. Wrinkle-resistant and machine-washable, it is perfect for busy travellers

and explorers. With compatible hardware, MOD components are interchangeable between systems and generations, allowing users to collect and create their own unique modules.

MOD uses custom YKK zippers to allow users to change the setting of their clothing instantly, with the top set easily changing from a no-sleeve core, to a short sleeve, to a long sleeve, and the bottom set changing from pants to shorts. Although the thought of using hardware like zippers at the shoulders and knees may seem uncomfortable, MOD uses a double-layer cover design that allows the user to reveal or

conceal the zipper on the outside, while protecting users from feeling the zipper on skin on the inside. KI is a contemporary athletic leisurewear brand based in Toronto, Canada that puts fashion, innovation, and sustainability at the forefront. They are the makers of the awardwinning MOD system, the world’s first modular track suit. Founded in 2016, Kelvin Li, Alice Chun, and Dylan Griese, with respective degrees in business, fashion communications, and economics, lead the team. As architects of functional aesthetics, the team wanted to create a new way for users to interact with their clothes, starting a system that brings modularity to apparel.

Eco-designed Seaqual reveals new fabrics

he company Seaqual 4U attracted great interest when it was set up in 2016 by three key players in the textiles industry: the Ecoalf foundation, textile group Santanderina and the Antex spinning mill.

Using the brand name Seaqual it announced the very first sales of fibres created by upcycling plastic waste, which collects at the bottom of the sea and is then fished out by 400 partner fishing boats. For every kg of fibre produced, a kg of waste is removed from the sea. “The scale of the challenge is enormous: an estimated eight million tons of rubbish are dumped in the oceans every

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year, and 80% of this waste sinks to the sea floor,” the company reports. Seaqual 4U has developed an ethical supply chain from the fishing boats to the consumers by involving all the different stakeholders within the textiles industry (spinning, fabrics and brands) to encourage the clean-up of marine waste and the creation of ecologically sound yarns, fibres and fabrics. Yarns can be blended with natural fibres or used in pure (100%) versions, either greige or yarn-dyed. They meet the requirements of ready-to-wear, sportswear, denim and even swimwear.

Although the Seaqual fibre offers identical properties and qualities to fibres created using new polyester fibre, its environmental footprint is incomparable. It plays an active role in cleaning up the ocean depths and allows for a 40% reduction in water consumption, energy savings of 50% and reduces carbon emissions by 60%, according to the manufacturer. A number of fabric producers, including Textil Santanderina (Spain), A.Sampaio e Filhos Texteis (Portugal), Sofileta (France), Generos de Punto Fabres (Spain), Fieratex (Greece) >>P85

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Textiles finishing agents market to propel in Europe

he textile chemical market in Europe is estimated to grow at a CAGR of 4.20 per cent between 2014 and 2020. Growing demand for hometech, mobiltech and clothtech chemicals will propel the market. The European textile chemical market is categorized into finishing agents, coating and sizing chemicals, colorants and auxiliaries, surfactants, bleaching agents, desizing agents, and yarn lubricants. Coating and sizing chemicals are the largest segment. However, the finishing agents segment is ex-

pected to display the fastest growth owing to the growing demand for high-quality fabrics. On the basis of application, the market is segmented into indutech, sportech, mobiltech, buildtech, hometech, meditech, clothtech, protech, agrotech, packtech, and others including geotech and oekotech. Mobiltech accounts for a 25 per cent market share. The growth of the segment can be attributed to its extensive demand from industries such as railways, automotives, spacecraft, ships, and aircraft. Agrotech is expected to be the most

rapidly developing application segment by 2020 owing to the extensive use of agrotech chemicals in horticulture, forestry, landscape gardening, floriculture, and agriculture. A rapid increase in the number of organic farms in Europe will further fuel the demand for agrotech chemicals. However, growing environmental concerns will restrain the overall market. Some textile chemicals are also known to be carcinogenic. This has led to the emergence of bio-based alternatives that will hinder the growth of the market.

<<P83 and Gipitex (Italy), have joined the movement and are making the most of the aesthetic qualities, as well as the ecological properties of the Seaqual fibre. Seaqual second-skin knits by Sofileta are designed for the swimwear and sportswear markets. Prints dominate a range of Seaqual knits from Generos De

Punto Fabres, with floral themes for fashion and swimwear. Fieratex has combined Seaqual with cellulose fibres for dense knits with a voluptuous hand-feel for the apparel market. Extremely luxurious with a couture spirit, Seaqual jacquards are available from the Italian Gipitex this season. The Ecoalf Foundation is a non-profit organisation whose primary goal is to

promote the selective recovery, recycling and revaluing of waste in order to prevent its adverse impact on the environment. This is achieved through the development and application of new scientific and technological advancements – especially with regard to plastic waste products that are found in the marine environment.

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