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2 • Community Advocate • YOUR HOME • Friday, October 14, 2016

Baby, it ’s cold outside Preparing for winter weather

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t’s hard to think about the grueling winter months while we’re enjoying a nice fall day, but we do need to prepare. If this will be your first winter in a new home, you probably don’t have all the basic winter tools and supplies on hand.

But don’t wait for the first flakes to fall. Any number of environmental constraints could occur - snowstorms, sleet, power outages, etc. - and you’ll want to be prepared.

Here are a few essential items to purchase before the winter weather descends: -Snow shovel. Keep one inside your front door (or perhaps in the front closet or mudroom).

-De-icer, such as salt or sand, for your walkway and driveway.

-Waterproof floor mats.

Do you see any missing roof shingles? If snow piles up on the roof, these could become weak spots, and eventually leaks, so get them replaced.

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These prevent slipping after walking in from outside.

Plus, they’re a great place to leave snow-covered boots.

-Flashlights and/or battery-operated lanterns.

Keep one in a few different rooms around the house. Buy an extra pack of batteries replenish to keep for backup.

Be sure to replenish the batteries yearly.

-Battery-operated AM/ FM radio, weather-alert radio and battery-operated clock.

-Cellphone charger.

Purchase an inexpensive, hand-crank charger in case of a power failure.

-Blankets and winter apparel, such as thermal underwear, vests, sweaters, heavy socks, gloves, etc.

-Hand warmers. Hand, feet and body warmers are sold at camping supply stores.

-Food supplies and cutlery.

Stock up on a manual can opener, paper plates, plastic flatware, paper towels/ napkins and plastic cups.

-Nonperishable foods.

Purchase foods that do not require refrigeration or cooking - canned goods, dry cereals, energy bars, powdered milk, etc.

-Bottled water. Buy at

Preparing page 3

Community Advocate • YOUR HOME • Friday, October 14, 2016 • 3

Baby, it’s cold outside: Preparing for winter weather Preparing Continued from page 2

least one gallon of water per person per day - enough for at least four days.

-Pet supplies, including food, water (four days’ worth for each animal), pet bed and/or blanket for each pet to snuggle in for warmth, and extra litter and/or weewee pads.

-Emergency first aid kit (adhesive bandages, gauze, sterile pads, adhesive tape, elastic bandages, antiseptic pads, scissors, tweezers, oral thermometer, instant cold and hot compresses, aspirin, antibiotic ointments, etc.).

-Prescription medications - at least four days’ worth.

After rounding up all these supplies, do some intel on typical wintertime procedures in your neighborhood. Check with your local town hall or police department for information on overnight parking, what walkways you are responsible for shoveling, how to clear your mailbox for delivery, how to handle trash pickup, etc. If there are nearby fire hydrants, check with the fire department to find out who shovels those out in a heavy snowstorm. It’s also a good idea for parents to contact the local school district and ask how they will communicate weatherrelated school closings and transportation.

As always, safety first.

Devise a communication plan for your family, in case a storm comes and not all family members can get home. Make emergency plans with your neighbors, too.

Winterize your home.

Even if you don’t get much snowfall, it’s still a good idea to prepare your home to withstand blustery winds and freezing temperatures.

A few simple fixes will make a big difference.

If the weather stripping around your windows and doorframes is cracked (or nonexistent), replacing it will reduce wind draft and save money on heating.

Choose the proper stripping for your fixtures - the most common is adhesive-backed foam. Also, insulate your windows using easy-to-use kits with vinyl shrink wrap,

bubble wrap, cellular shades or lined drapes. Don’t forget to insulate your attic or basement/crawlspace, too.

Lastly, protect your water pipes from freezing and bursting with insulating pipe wrap, available at your local hardware store.

Now check for outdoor home improvements. Head outside your home, and look up. Do you see any missing roof shingles? If snow piles up on the roof, these could become weak spots, and eventually leaks, so get them replaced. Check your sump pump to make sure it’s in good working condition and the drainage line is clear.

If the drainage line freezes during the winter months, do not keep the pump plugged in without supervision, as it will burn out. Don’t forget about your air conditioner, just because you won’t be using it; wrap foam around the pipes and cover the unit in plastic to help protect it from the cold.

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4 • Community Advocate • YOUR HOME • Friday, October 14, 2016

Heater Rescue

How to purge air from hot-water pipes in your heating system

By Mark J. Donovan

Due to the amount of air in the hot-water pipe, the circulator pump simply couldn’t pump water through the circuit.

y home uses a hotwater-to-hot-air converter system for heat. Recently, the heat upstairs stopped working. I called in an HVAC contractor, and within about 10 minutes he identified the problem and had my upstairs heating system working again.

What was the cause of the failure? Actually, there were two culprits.

First, air was in the hotwater pipe that fed the attic heat exchanger, causing the circulator pump not to circulate water through the closed-loop water heating system associated with the attic circuit. Second, the water feeder valve was not working properly in the fact that it did not automatically

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allow more water into the closed-loop heating circuit when it sensed a low pressure, e.g., below 15 psi.

The HVAC contractor explained to me that there was a leak somewhere in my heating system, which

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slowly bled off pressure into the attic-heating hot-water circuit. Due to the amount of air in the hot-water pipe, the circulator pump simply couldn’t pump water through the circuit. Thus, no hot water was making it up into

the attic heat exchanger.

He also explained that the water feeder valve had not been working properly.

If it had, it would have automatically pumped more water into the hot-water heating circuit to get the pressure up above 15 psi.

To confirm his explanation of the problems to me, he first went up into the attic and loosened a nipple screw on a valve that fed the hot water into the heat exchanger. As he

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loosened the nipple screw we could hear air blowing out of the loosened nipple seal. When water finally began to spew from the loosened nipple screw he tightened the nipple screw back up. Within seconds we could feel hot water circulating through the copper pipe. By purging air from the hot-water supply pipe, he had restored water circulation to the attic heat exchanger.

In the basement, the HVAC contractor showed me that the pressure in the hot-water heating system was only at around 10 psi.

Upon slightly lifting the small metal arm on the water feeder valve, I instantly heard water swooshing into the pipe. When the pressure gauge read 18 psi he restored the metal arm on the water feeder valve to its normal position. Too much water in the heating system risks the pressure and temperature relief valve going off.

After demonstrating how the water feeder valve operated, we decided to have him replace the valve so that I wouldn’t have to worry about having too low water pressure in the heating system again in the event another small leak in the hot-water heating circuit occurred.

Lastly, in regard to the concern for a leak in the heating system, I explained to him that I had noticed a small leak dripping from a nipple screw on the heat exchanger in the basement during the summer. I told him I believe the leak had persisted for a couple of months before I resolved the issue by simply tightening the nipple screw.

Consequently, after the HVAC contractor installed the new water feeder valve, the pressure in the water-heating pipes remained constant and no water leaks were discovered.

Community Advocate • YOUR HOME • Friday, October 14, 2016 • 5

Let there be light!

Installing a skylight into a room with an attic be about twice that of the skylight area. It provides better distribution of the sunlight throughout your room and a better view of the sky.

No matter which design of light well you choose, it is extremely important to seal all the joints well with caulking.

Silicone caulking is good to use because the temperature inside an attic can get quite high. Go into the attic and glue or nail several inches of rigid foam insulation on the sides of the light well. Don’t leave any voids.

Once the light well is completed, the worst is over.

Installing a skylight in the roof is straightforward procedure that is similar for most skylights. The key to a leak-free installation is generous use of caulking and careful fitting of the flashing and shingles.

: My house is fairly small and I want to add a skylight to the living room to open it up. The problem is that there is an attic above it. Is there a way to still add a skylight in the ceiling?

Q

: Adding a skylight to a room can have an amazing impact on its decor and make it seem much larger than it actually is. You will be surprised at how the bright, natural sunlight will draw your family members into that room.

Although it is a little trickier to install a skylight in a room with an attic above it compared to a vaulted or cathedral ceiling, more than half of all skylights are installed this way.

The actual installation of the skylight in the roof is identical, but you will have to build a light well from your ceiling to the skylight in the roof.

Before you start cutting holes in the roof, first determine the type of skylight (flat or domed, glass or plastic, fixed or venting) that you want. A fixed, domed, plastic one is probably the easiest to install and is definitely the least expensive option.

If you prefer a skylight that opens for ventilation, consider how it opens. Since it is up in a light well, it may be difficult to reach with a manual rod. Installing a model with an electric motor is most convenient. Make sure you have a simple path to run an electric line to it.

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The size of the skylight is also critical for effective lighting and for aesthetic balance. If it is too small, it will look silly. If it is too big, it will create glare and result in too much energy loss. A rule of thumb is to multiply the square footage of the room by .045 to determine the proper square foot size of the skylight.

Go up on the roof and determine where you want the skylight to be located. Drill a hole through the roof at about the center of the skylight. Go into the attic. Use the hole as a reference only because the skylight location should be

adjusted to match up with the rafters for proper support.

Drill four corner holes up through the roof to show the exact location.

There are two light well designs you can use. A straight-walled light well is the easiest to build, but not the most attractive or effective.

With this light well design, the opening in your ceiling is the same size as the skylight and the sides are straight for simplicity.

If you are somewhat handy with tools, a tapered light well is a much better design. The open area in your ceiling will

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6 • Community Advocate • YOUR HOME • Friday, October 14, 2016

Kitchen makeover planning

How to plan a kitchen-remodeling project itchen makeovers continue to be a popular trend with homeowners, and are a very wise investment. The kitchen is the most important room in a home. It is where people prepare food, meet and eat daily. Consequently, it is the most used room in the house. As a result, people want their kitchen to be functional and efficient, as well as warm and inviting. The cost of a remodeled kitchen varies with the level of the makeover. For example, a basic kitchen remodel that includes new countertops, refaced cabinets and hardware, and new kitchen appliances will set the average homeowner back around $20,000, and have a return on investment of around 70 percent. If the kitchen remodel includes the installa-

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tion of new kitchen cabinets, the average cost can add up to $50,000 or higher and the average return on investment of around 60 percent.

Functionality trumps aesthetics When designing your kitchen makeover, keep in mind that you first and foremost want a functional design. Visit various home improvement and kitchen show rooms to see what the modern trends are today in floorplans and features. Keep in mind that kitchens typically

require 200 to 350 square feet of space. Also, today’s trends in kitchen design typically include open floor plans and the use of energy efficient appliances and natural products.

Again, check out showrooms to get ideas for your kitchen makeover. Also, make sure to look online for magazines and books on designing kitchens.

The triangle workspace One design idea to keep always in your mind as you design your kitchen remodel is the triangle layout. Make sure that you design it so

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that when you stand in the center of a work triangle you have the refrigerator on one side of you, the sink on the other, and the stove/oven on the other. This type of layout ensures efficiency while preparing food. And to that point, make sure you have large enough counter space areas for doing food prep, baking, cooking and cleaning.

Also when designing your kitchen floorplan, consider your family and how you plan to use the kitchen. If you play Kitchen makeover page 7

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Community Advocate • YOUR HOME • Friday, October 14, 2016 • 7

How to plan a kitchen-remodeling project kitchen cabinets and countertops you are considering.

Also, check out the costs of kitchen appliances, as well as flooring and lighting products that you may want to include in your makeover.

This way you can come up with a rough cost estimate

and develop a top-line budget for it. One smart idea when it comes to developing a kitchen makeover budget is to include a contingency line item in it that represents around 10 to 15 percent of the total cost of the budget.

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Kitchen makeover Continued from page 6

to use your kitchen for cooking and entertaining, then consider including lots of cabinet space and a peninsula or island with a bar-counter for people to eat at.

Reduce clutter Remember to think reduced clutter. Again, make

sure your kitchen design plan includes plenty of cabinets, drawers and shelves to store all of your items so that your countertops are less cluttered.

Kitchen makeover budget Lastly, but most importantly, come up with a budget at the beginning of your kitchen makeover plans. It

is imperative you figure out up front how much you are willing to spend on your kitchen remodel, and it is also just as much important to stick with that budget throughout the process from beginning to end.

Make sure when you visit kitchen showrooms that you find out up front what the rough cost is for the

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8 • Community Advocate • YOUR HOME • Friday, October 14, 2016

Radon Detection How to identify high levels of radon in your home

By Mark J. Donovan y wife and I recently decided to have our house checked for radon levels.

We bought the home, new, in 1989. In the early 1990s the idea of testing a home for radon came to fruition, but we weren’t too concerned about radon levels at the time. Only after years - OK, decades - did we finally say, “Let’s have a look.”

Well, as luck would have it, our radon levels were quite a bit higher than the Environmental Protection Agency’s recommended level (4.0 pCi/L) about 10 times higher. So we recently hired a radon mitigation contractor to install an active soil depressurization radon mitigation system in our home.

The ASD system is comprised of a PVC pipe that penetrates through the basement concrete

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slab and into the gravel that sits below the slab. The PVC pipe then runs up to the sill plate and takes a 90-degree turn, through the sill plate and out of our home. From there the PVC pipe connects into a radon reduction fan that draws the moist radon air from underneath the basement floor up and out of the basement and house. On the other side of the radon reduction fan is another long section of PVC pipe that extends upward and over the roof eave of our house by at least a foot.

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our basement that indicates there is a negative pressure underneath the slab due to the fact that the reduction fan is running. I can also hear the air passing through the PVC pipe when listening carefully to it.

The radon reduction fan runs continuously, and the electricity to operate it costs about $4 per month. Installation takes about four hours. An electrician may need to install a dedicated electrical circuit from the main electric circuit panel to the reduction fan motor.

The cost of the radon mitigation system itself was $1,195, and it’s guaranteed to meet the EPA 4.0 pCi/L safe level. The installer gave us two test kits to conduct the radon test on the system.

After placing the open testkit canisters two feet off the basement floor and leaving them there for two days, we sealed them up and sent them to an independent lab. If for any reason the radon levels are determined to be unsafe, the installer will return to our house and either install a larger reduction fan or install one or more additional PVC pipes below the basement. Hopefully, we won’t need him back.

If you have an older home and live in an area that is notorious for radon levels, you may want to conduct a radon test. Radon is the secondleading cause of lung cancer, so it’s worth spending the money to possibly prevent such an illness from occurring in you or your family down the road.

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Community Advocate • YOUR HOME • Friday, October 14, 2016 • 9

Salty situations

Be cautious when using ice-melts

By Mark J. Donovan e were recently traveling when an icy snowstorm hit our state. When we returned home, we had several inches of frozen snow and ice in our driveway and on our walkway and lawn. I got out my snow blower and made my best attempt to remove the frozen mess. However, the blower could not penetrate the thick layer of ice. Instead of applying a generous layer of salt, I decided to let the sunshine soften up the ice layer before going back out there and having another go with the blower. It took quite a while, and I had to add a shovel and ice scraper pole to my tool arsenal, but I eventually cleared the ice.

Why did I not use salt,you ask?

Though salt would have melted the ice much faster, it is a corrosive product that can cause some surfaces to crack and crumble. In fact, most icemelt products are damaging in some way. Consumer Reports did an ice-melt comparison in 2014, weighing the potential for each substance to damage concrete, asphalt and other things. The results were as follows: -Calcium chloride and potassium chloride cause minimal to moderate damage to asphalt and concrete, as well as grass and plants when over-applied.

-Calcium magnesium acetate causes moderate

are other ramifications, too.

Most of the salts above can be lethal to pets if swallowed.

Additionally, the salt can eventually make its way into your local waterways, affecting other wildlife. And everyone who has salted their landscape knows how easy it is to track into the garage and through the house.

Sand or gravel are great alternatives to salt. So is kitty litter. It won’t accelerate the melting of ice and snow, but it will create friction so you can gain traction when walking or driving over the icy surfaces. Are you a caffeine junkie? Try sprinkling your coffee grounds on the ice.

You’ll have to take some time to figure out what’s right for you, but rest easy knowing you can always get out of a salty winter situation.

W

damage.

-Magnesium chloride causes moderate to significant damage to asphalt and concrete, and can damage plants when over-applied.

-Sodium chloride (rock salt), although it causes minimal to moderate damage on concrete and asphalt, can also cause damage to brick, stone, metal, grass, plants and wood decks.

-Urea poses minimal to no damage to concrete and asphalt, making it the best solution out of these options.

The study recommends avoiding using an ice-melt on concrete that’s less than one year old, as it can make the concrete susceptible to future damage. But there

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10 • Community Advocate • YOUR HOME • Friday, October 14, 2016

In the gutter: Maintaining your gutters and downspouts I

t seems simple to have properly installed, wellmaintained gutters and downspouts that move rainwater away from the foundation, help keep water out of the basement, discourage insect populations that breed in standing water and protect landscaping.

However, successful gutter installation depends on getting a lot of things right: secure attachment to the roof system, proper sloping, sufficient width and depth for your roof size and style, downspouts/extensions to prevent ponds in the spring and ice rinks in the winter, and construction material (usually vinyl, aluminum, or steel, occasionally copper) that makes the purchase worth your investment.

And then there’s the maintenance. “The key thing most people don’t think of when they go to the store and just pick something

off the shelf is what kind of debris they’re trying to keep out of their gutters,” said Jamie Gilbert, owner of Statewide Gutter Co. Statewide installs, cleans, repairs and has seen or heard of just about all gutter guard

options. They recommend one of three gutter guard styles for most homeowners.

“We use a gutter guard that fits 5- and 6-inch K-style gutters, which are the most popular residential gutters in the country,” said Gilbert. It

comes in three styles.

“The first style keeps leaves out,” Gilbert said.

“The second keeps maple seeds and finer debris out, and the third has an even finer mesh to prevent pine needles from getting into the gutter.” In neighborhoods with a variety of trees, Gilbert uses the finest mesh.

Prices range from approximately $3.85 to $5.85 per lineal foot, installed.

All are attached securely with a combination of clips, screws, a patented Z-bend along the back edge for rigidity, and have fitted ends to prevent birds from nesting in the gutter. Any silky or cottony debris that does stick to the guard, said Gilbert, usually dries and blows off. And, he said, even the finest mesh style still allows enough water into the gutter to effectively direct water away from the foundation.

With or without guards or

covers, said Gilbert, gutters still require maintenance.

You still have to inspect the gutters a couple of times a year, especially at the bottom of roof valleys and gutter corners, to ensure the gutter is still clear of dust and debris, and check for any cracks, holes or other damage from trees, weather or animals.

So before investing in gutter guards, decide how much maintenance you’re willing to do yourself. Will you clean the gutters twice a year? Will you inspect the gutters and guards for damage and make the needed repairs, patches and replacements? Is your house just one story tall? If the answer to any of those questions is “no,” consider whether it would be easier to save your money and hire a full-service professional in your area to clean, repair and maintain your gutters, guard-free.

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Community Advocate • YOUR HOME • Friday, October 14, 2016 • 11

Snowbird prep Closing up your home before flying south for winter relatives know you’ll be away. They can keep tabs on your property if needed.

“Leave valuables in a vault away from your property,” said Simon.

-Forward your calls to your cell phone or out-of-state landline.

-Keep a list of your doctors, doctors’ contact information and your medications.

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But for snowbirds - those people who head south for the winter - getting ready for the season doesn’t include gloves, snow shovels or firewood. Instead, before they get head out for warm temps and sunny skies, they have to prep their home for their time away.

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Winterize “I used to come down south for at least one month out of the year,” said former snowbird AJ Saleem, who now lives full time in Houston.

“The most important thing to do is to winterize your house,” said Saleem, who previously lived in Vermont and Connecticut.

“This generally means insulating pipes that are susceptible to the cold air and ensuring that leaky seals are fixed. Of course, it’s never possible to be too careful, but there are some general precautions snowbirds should always take.”

General Tips It seems simple but make sure you give keys to a neighbor or friend in case of emergency. Keep a set for yourself, too.

“You may need to get home in a hurry only to

discover that the person at home who has your keys, has taken a weekend ski vacation,” said snowbird Sheridan Becker, who splits time between New York City and Fort Lauderdale.

Regular check-ins will give you peace of mind, too.

“Have a friend, neighbor or maintenance company check on your property once a week to see if there are any water leaks, ice dams and hopefully no break-ins,” said Sheryl Simon, principal of Benoit Mizner Simon & Co. Real Estate, who recommends setting up a home monitoring security system that you can monitor via tablet or computer.

Discontinue your newspaper delivery.

“Even having a weeks’ worth of papers on your front lawn is a sure sign to a prospective robber that you are on vacation,” said Simon.

Forward your mail to your seasonal address so you can stay current on bills.

Make sure your homeowners insurance is up to date. That way you’ll be covered if something goes awry while you’re away.

Pack up all of your pets to either travel with you to your warm destination or to stay with a friend. Never leave a pet at home while you’re at your snowbird destination.

Inside Preps “Don’t shut your heating

system off,” urged Saleem.

Instead, snowbirds should set their thermostat to four degrees or less below normal settings.

Having enough heat will protect pipes from bursting in cold temps, which can be expensive to repair. Schedule automatic temperature settings to keep your place from getting too chilly.

Remember to close all windows. If not, “your heat will have to work harder,” said Saleem, recommending snowbirds seal up drafts to maximize energy efficiency.

Consider automatic timecontrolled lighting, which can give the impression someone’s home, a deterrent for burglars. Schedule the lights to turn on and off at fixed times such as on at 6 p.m. and off at 10 p.m.

Outside Preps One of the major winter concerns is dealing with the weather, specifically ice and snow.

Before you leave,hire someone to plow or shovel snow.

“Don’t let large amounts of snow build up on your roof, especially on flat roofs,” noted Simon, since heavy snow can cause the roof to weaken or collapse.

Travel Preps While your home is ready for you to fly south for the season, make sure you’re ready, too.

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12 • Community Advocate • YOUR HOME • Friday, October 14, 2016

Whole house generator installation tips

By Mark J. Donovan looked at two whole house generators to install on my property, a Kohler generator and a Generac generator. In the end I decided to purchase the Kohler generator because it had a key feature that helped keep my overall whole house generator installation costs lower - its automatic transfer switch had integrated load management sharing. Unfortunately, the Generac generator did not. Consequently, with the Generac solution, I would have had to buy either a large 22kw generator with no load sharing required, or a 16kw generator with remote load-sharing boxes installed in my home.

So what is managed load sharing? Load sharing allows you to have up to several high-current carrying loads that are not absolutely critical to have running

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you could have the microwave, dishwasher and oven on a load-sharing circuit, so that in the event that one or two of them were on while the generator was operating, the automatic transfer switch wouldn’t allow the second or third item to turn on. As a result of the managed load sharing a smaller generator can be used to power the house, thus saving you from having to buy a more expensive generator.

In my case, I chose the 14kw Kohler generator with the integrated load-sharing feature built into the automatic transfer switch. The cost savings over the 22kw Generac generator, or the 16kw version with external load management boxes,

was around 40 percent. I also had a concern with reduced system reliability with having multiple boxes located in and around the house for the items I wanted to load share.

Because we don’t have access to natural gas, we purchased a whole house generator that operates off of propane gas. In researching having propane tanks installed, I learned that I could either buy the tanks outright, or rent them. I chose to buy the propane tanks, two 120 gallon tanks, rather than rent. The cost of the two tanks came to around $1,150. However, by buying the tanks I get to purchase propane gas at less

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than half the rate than if I were to rent the tanks. For example, I am now paying between $1.50 and $1.70 per gallon by owning the tanks. I was paying, when renting just one tank, over $3.50 per gallon. So seriously consider the financial benefit of buying the propane tanks when installing a whole house generator.

Note that you will need two 120-gallon propane tanks to reliably run the generator. Otherwise, there will be insufficient gas line pressure to ensure the generator will always operate when required.

Both whole house generator installation companies that I had come out to my property and assess the site for the generator were insistent about keeping the propane tanks relatively close by. They recommend that only 15 to 20 feet should separate the two.

The main reason for their recommendations was that trenching for the gas and electric lines is very expensive, and in some cases impossible to do if there are large tree roots in the way.

Unless you are willing to pay a high premium for the generator installation, or don’t mind taking out a tree or two, then expect to place your whole house generator and propane tanks fairly close to one another.

Community Advocate • YOUR HOME • Friday, October 14, 2016 • 13

Make yourself at home Do-it-yourself knitting and crocheting projects first. It certainly helped keep them occupied during shutin winter days!”

While these do-it-yourself projects will certainly get you

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through the winter months, the end results will last for years, and the memories of making them will last even longer.

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Make them sentimental by sewing in an old, memoryladen t-shirt or your kids’ baby clothes. Not only will you stay warm but you’ll also have the warmth of treasured memories.

-Towels. Sew a monogram or other design onto a set of super soft, plush towels.

When you step out of the shower and wrap yourself in that towel, you’ll feel snug as a bug in a rug.

-Area rugs. Stepping out of bed onto cold tile will surely wake you up in the morning.

Area rugs will keep your feet warm and even make you a bit more comfortable around the house.

-Pillow covers. Colucci says these are popular. Some pillow projects are quick and easy, such as iron-on designs.

They add charm and personality to your furniture.

-Curtains. If you can hem fabric, you can switch out those wispy, summery window sheers for heavier, chillreducing curtains. Tired of looking at the same window furnishing all year-round?

Crochet a new pattern with richer hues and textures to transform your space.

- Scarves. “Scarves are the number-one knitting or crocheting project, approachable for entry-level crafters to complete, and projects range from skinny scarves to larger ‘super-scarves’ that can be worn inside for cozy warmth

while watching television or worn to go out,” Colucci said.

Knit a scarf, and you can walk out your front door with a new winter fashion statement.

Sure, you could always order new blankets or throw pillows or pick some up from Target, but why not fight a dreary winter day by learning a new craft and taking on a new project? Snowed in one Tuesday afternoon?

No matter. You’ll come away with something to show for it. Plus, no home improvement feels as satisfying as one you’ve done yourself.

So how do you get started?

Well, you’ll find free teaching tutorials online, or you could take a class at a local yarn shop, craft store or adult school. The Craft Yarn Council survey says that 67 percent of people look for new project ideas on the Internet. Try the Pinterest website - but just know that once you go on, you may never leave! You might not even have to leave the house to shop for supplies, either.

Many find online shopping just as convenient and even more affordable than shopping in stores.

And these crafts aren’t just do-it-yourself - they’re fun to do with others, too. Plan a crafting afternoon for friends and family. Everyone can work on their own projects, or you could design a group project. Can you say memory quilt? Alison Beckett, mother of four, said, “It was wonderful to introduce my kids to knitting. They loved the challenge and were interested in doing other projects after our

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hat could be better on a chilly night than cozying up in front of the fireplace with a good book or snuggling under a comfy blanket and watching Netflix? When heaps of snow and thunderstorms thwart your day at the park or night on the town, there’s no need to mope around the house. These crafty do-ityourself projects, inspired by the crafts of knitting and crocheting, will keep you warm, calm and collected.

One mission during wintertime is finding activities to keep us mentally and physically active and entertained.

According to the Craft Yarn Council, which represents leading yarn companies, accessory manufacturers, book publishers and consultants in the yarn industry, knitting and crocheting are very popular winter activities, with many proven benefits.

Mary Colucci, the Yarn Council executive director, said, “Winter is the most productive time of year for knitting and crocheting projects.”

In 2014, the Yarn Council completed a survey that found that those who knit and croquet experience numerous benefits, including feelings of accomplishment; improved mood; reduced stress; and a sense of confidence.

Besides the positive experience that knitting and crocheting bring, there are practical benefits to these activities, as well. Items like blankets and throws will up the coziness factor in your home.

And Colucci notes they can also add a little excitement and color that will brighten your space without changing your furniture. And that extra color will go a long way to lift your spirits on those gray days.

“But what would I knit?” you might ask. Well, the options are endless. Among them are: -Throw blankets. There are thousands of patterns to choose from. Plus, you can enhance and personalize them with hand-sewn

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14 • Community Advocate • YOUR HOME • Friday, October 14, 2016

Get a full flush Why toilets flush slowly and often incompletely f you have one or more toilets flushing slowly or not completely you may very well have a systemic problem somewhere in your home’s waste-vent sewer pipes. It is

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important to understand that there are three key ingredients necessary for a toilet to flush properly: - Sufficient water running through.

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- No blockages to hamper the movement of the water, waste and air through the toilet.

Fail to deliver on any one of these three ingredients and a toilet will not flush properly.

If you have a toilet or multiple toilets flushing slowly and incompletely then you need to troubleshoot, diagnose and solve the problem by following the steps listed below.

Step One Use a plunger to remove any potential blockages in

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the waste line of the toilet.

Make sure you use a plunger that can make an effective seal with the toilet bowl. Also make sure the plunger is fully submerged in the toilet bowl water when plunging to ensure a strong enough plunge of air into the toilet bowl outlet. This process should loosen any blockage and allow the water and waste to begin moving freely again through the toilet and waste pipe.

Step Three Remove the toilet tank cover and check the water level in the tank. The water line in the tank should be such that it is sitting about 1 inch or less from the top of the overflow tube. If it is lower than that, the toilet may not be getting enough water to fill the waste pipe and to create enough suction when you flush the toilet. If necessary, adjust the screw on the float ball assembly so to adjust the standing water level in the tank.

Step Two Turn off the water to the toilet tank, and then flush.

Using rubber gloves feel for any obstructions in the toilet P-trap. Also check in the toilet inlet for any debris that could be clogging it. Then turn the water to the toilet tank back on.

Step Four When flushing the toilet, listen for any gurgling sounds coming from other nearby drains, e.g., the bathroom sink as well as other nearby sinks.

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the toilet vents are blocked.

You will need to get up on your home’s roof and clear the vent stack pipe. There may be leaves, sticks or pine needles clogging it. Run a garden hose down the pipe and spray water down it. This should, hopefully, clear any clogs.

Step Five Using a straightened paper clip, poke the water inlet holes around the inside rim of the toilet bowl to clear any mineral deposits that may be clogging them. Mineral deposits can impede water flow into the toilet when you flush, which ultimately prevents the formation of adequate suction required for proper flushing.

Step Six Use a toilet auger to clear the waste lines if you’ve done all of the above and still not had success. Insert and feed the auger line into the toilet bowl until you encounter resistance. Then crank the auger handle to work the auger head through the blockage.

Step Seven Lastly, run a sewer auger down the roof vent stack to clear out any obstructions that the water hose may have failed to remove. Again, when an obstruction is felt, crank the auger handle until resistance is eliminated.

By following these seven steps, you should be able to resolve your home’s toilet woes.

Community Advocate • YOUR HOME • Friday, October 14, 2016 • 15

Bedroom storage Get creative and save money with DIY projects uying fureasy to paint, and you can add there is not a lot of open space niture is an more to create your desired between the cinder block e x p e n s i ve height. For more inspiration, foundation and the mattress; endeavor, but check out the many boards you do not want to fall off your living on a tight dedicated to bedroom DIY bed. Wooden pallets are anbudget doesn’t on Pinterest. other great option as they are mean that you have to sacrifice your sense of style. It can be an opportunity to be creative.

For those with small bedrooms, having too much furTITLE 5 INSPECTIONS CALL niture can make US PUMPING - REPAIRS the room apTODAY! I N STA L L AT I O N S pear cluttered and even smaller. Fortunately, y o u c a n d o You can do without bulky items, such as a nightstand, dresser or armoire, and replace them without bulky with organizers to make the room appear more spacious. items, such as a nightstand, ing surrounded by books, but unit. Lastly, do not place heavy dresser or armoire, and redo not necessarily love the items on the shelf atop of the place them with organizers to height of a loft bed, there is two bookshelves, to avoid any Now serving Northborough, Southborough, make the room appear more an alternative. Create your accidents from happening. spacious.

Marlborough, Hudson & Shrewsbury! own bookshelf headboard.

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