Traveller 2018/19
SERENE SURINAME An oasis of eco-splendour
MY, MY, MY, MALAYSIA Kuala Lumpur and Penang: Don’t choose, do them both
JAMAICA
Jamrocking on the high seas
PEAK AMBITION
TO TANGIER AND BEYOND: MOROCCO IN FOCUS A Voice Media Group Publication
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CONTENTS SPECIAL THANKS TO OUR PARTNERS: Main partner Royal Air Morocco Brilliant Travel Gambia DHK Estates Grenada Tourist Board Jamaica Tourist Board Jewel Grande Resort LycaFly Newmont Travel Rubicon Sackville Travel SN Travel St Lucia Tourist Board St Lucia Festival Zambia High Commission West Africa Tourism Organisation OUR CONTRIBUTORS: Anne-Laure Meunier Americo Cabral Isabel Conway Jerome Conway Kerry-Ann Clarke www.kerrymwh.com
Laura Gelder Nigel Gordon Rachel Ritfield Rod Leon PRODUCTION DESIGNERS: Thierry Lagrin Gillian Maher THE VOICE TEAM: Alannah Francis Garfield Robinson Getnet Hailu George Ruddock Joel Campbell Leah Sinclair Paulette Simpson Rodney Hinds Seani B Thierry Lagrin Trevor Raymond Vic Motune Yemi Williams
8 Oh Grenada
18 Jamrocking on the high seas
20 All that Jazz: St Lucia
24 Girls trip to Amsterdam
SPECIAL THANKS: Jamie-Lee Abtar, owner of Be Disinctly Different, who partnered with the Voice to conduct the travel survey.
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33 Mount Everest - Ain’t no mountain high enough for father and daughter
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Zambia: 10 million cubic litres of water every second
Jamaica and Thailand in focus: Rod’s photo diary
48 Morocco: Cultural fusion
64 The ultimate traveller bucket List
50 Sao Tome: A hidden gem
High life in Monaco
Website: www.voice-online.co.uk • The Voice App: voice-online.co.uk/app Facebook: Voicenews • Twitter: @thevoicenews • Instagram: @thevoicenewspaper
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THE GARAMA CAVE
If you’re visiting Mgahinga National park in Uganda make sure you visit The Garama Cave. Previously home to the Batwa, who had lived there for many years until they were recently resettled, the 342m long Garama Cave lies beneath a plateu northern edge of the park, 3km from Ntebeko.
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WELCOME
ELCOME to The Voice Traveller - our inaugural travel publication designed for the African and Caribbean community in the UK. The Voice Traveller is published by The Voice which for the past 35 years has reigned as Britain’s award-winning conduit that informs, inspires and engages with people of African, Caribbean and mixed heritage across numerous platforms including print, online, Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and The Voice App. Underpinning the need to publish The Voice Traveller was the commonly held misconception that African and Caribbean people only travel when they go ‘home’ to visit friends and family. This target audience is under-represented by the mainstream travel industry in the UK and travel promotions and resources to this growing market segment are often absent. There is very little analysis of the travel habits and trends of African and Caribbean travellers. So to develop a better understanding, The Voice teamed up with travel experts to conduct a survey of 1,800 people in the community.
The survey covered questions such as, what are the most popular vacations taken by this community? How much is the typical spend when they go abroad? Do they travel alone? It also challenged the perception that they do not travel frequently. The aim of The Voice Traveller is to share the travel experiences of African and Caribbean travellers and provide ideas and resources based on their travel preferences. It will be distributed across the UK alongside The Voice in 3,000 outlets including major supermarket chains, independent newsagents and also through churches, businesses and at events such as conferences and festivals. The publication will also be available on our digital platforms. The Voice Traveller will provide a unique opportunity for the travel industry to reach this growing target audience, 46% of whom travel at least once per year. A further 41% of whom travel between two and three times per year, enjoy short breaks and have a passion for cultural and adventure holiday. It is a big world – Happy travelling! n
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TRAVEL SURVEY Redressing the balance for the African Caribbean traveller The African and Caribbean community are travelling more than ever, however they are still woefully underrepresented in the UK travel industry. In 2016 CNN reported that the black travel movement in the US was gaining momentum and travel websites/agents have been filling the gap in the market. This trend is mirrored in the UK but it is ignored by the mainstream travel indsutry as there is an absence of promotions and resources to target this dynamic segment. The aim of our 2018/19 research project was to redress the balance and delve deeper into what it means to be an African Caribbean traveller in the 21st century. The results were enlightening and we are pleased to share a few key findings below. Survey Respondents Women are powerful consumers and their impact on the economy is growing every year. They drive a significant percentage of all consumer purchasing, through a combination of their buying power and influence. Women formed the majority of the respondents to our survey accounting for 75% of which 47% were in the 25 – 44 age group. Millennials are now the largest generational demographic, and this was reflected in our survey. Of the 1,800 respondents 44% were in the age range 25-44. See diagram - top right. The African Caribbean Traveller One of the key objectives of the research was to challenge misconceptions surrounding the travel habits and preferences of the African Caribbean community in the UK. One of the biggest misconceptions relates to their propensity to travel and desire to be a tourist. Travel research underpins the marketing strategy of many travel brands, because this data indicates viability or otherwise of particular segments. The results show that African Caribbean travellers are both inclined and able to travel. Whilst 46% stated that they travelled once in the past 12 months, 41% indicated that they travelled two or three times and 14% travelled four times or more per year. In terms of their average spend on a flight per trip 23% spend up to £300, 54% from £300 to £700 and 22% spend £700 or more. 88% indicated that they spend an average of £500 per night for hotel accomodation. Another misconception surrounding African Caribbean travellers relates to the destinations that they favour, with the Caribbean and Miami being perceived as their 6
most visited destinations. Whilst the Caribbean was indeed a popular choice for 35% of respondents, a significant percentage of this group, 49%, favoured Europe for holidays, mainly for short trips. Other destinations that survey respondents also favoured were Africa and Asia.
Survey Respondents Age Range
6% 20%
What inspires African Caribbean travellers to travel We also sought to learn more about what inspires African Caribbean travellers. Respondents were asked to rank the factors that influence their choice 6% of a holiday destination, and contrary to the popular belief that 20% visiting friends and family was the primary motivator for this segment; that reason proved to be ‘important’ for only 22% of respondents. Other drivers for travel that were ranked as ‘important’ included activities and attractions (43%), accommodation (42%), location (39%) and cultural experiences 36%.
47%
27%
18 - 24 years 25 - 44 years
47%
45 - 54 years 55 - 65 years
27%
In the digital age, we all tend to be inspired and influenced by a range of sources. The survey revealed that African Caribbean travellers are ‘very likely’ to get travel inspiration from a wide range of sources such as family and friends, travel agents, Google, magazines, guide books, Facebook, YouTube and Instagram, Type of Holiday The results indicate that African Caribbean travellers are keen to experience a wide variety of different holidays. The type of holidays that were on the 12 months agenda for the majority of respondents were short breaks (23%) 1 1% followed closely cultural holidays (22%), cruises (11%) 19% trips (9%). and adventure The survey has provided a greater understanding of the African Caribbean traveller and served to dispel the common misconceptions about their travel habits22% and 12% preferences. They have a strong desire to travel and they are already doing it and regularly too! They are interested in a variety of holiday experiences that are not limited to certain countries or regions. Call to action 13% 23% The entire travel industry is of importance and interest to African Caribbean travellers, as they search for inspiration from a variety of sources to quench their desire to experience different cultures and seek out new adventures. The African Caribbean traveller is a valuable and engaged segment, and the time for the travel industry to adapt their marketing strategies and effectively target this community has long past.
Holiday preferences
1 1% 19%
22% 12%
13%
23%
Cruise Cultural Wedding/Honeymoon/Luxury
Short Break Adventure/Safari Celebration/Other Special thanks to Jamie-Lee Abtar who partnered with The Voice to conduct and analyse the survey. Jamie is a travel marketing professional with an MSc in marketing. She has developed an international travel career and is passionate about assisting travel brands to build strong profitable relationships with customers as well as conceptualising and executing innovative ideas to drive business. Jamie-Lee is also one of TTG’s 30 under 30 for 2016/7, a prestigious award that recognises shining stars in the travel industry.
SURINAME:
HOME IS WHERE THE HEART IS It’s a jungle, but not as you know it. By RACHEL RITFELD
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was born in Suriname and left with my mom at 10 years old for her job and my education. My annual visits were no longer enough when my daughter Rosalia was born so we moved back for one and a half years when she was a toddler. I loved sharing my childhood memories with her: exploring the city, visiting family, and trekking through the jungle. I’m honoured to share some of our fondest memories and hope it inspires you to travel off the beaten track where you will fall in love not only with the country but also reconnect with yourself while being at one with nature and all its beauty. CITY OF PARAMARIBO: The capital is full of stunning colonial architecture, cultural diversity and rich history. On a typical day we stroll past the historical Fort Zeelandia and stop for lunch at Le Gadri restaurant for local specialties such as “pom, moksi alesi and okra soup”. Afterwards we walk to Tangelo for our favourite almond drink “orgeade” before making our way to Leon’s Berg where we flag down a boatsman to take us across the river to the most amazing open air museum called Nieuw
tours that exceed all expectations: pink belly dolphin spotting, a nature and historical walk on the grounds, boat tours through the swamps that used to be coffee plantations but were flooded after the abolishment of slavery, cayman spotting at night and in season you can even witness sea turtle nesting about 30 minutes away by boat.
Amsterdam. This museum boasts beautiful manicured gardens while educating us on Surinamese history during the time of slavery. Watching the sunset from the boat upon our return is magical. Café d’Optimist is the place to be for dinner, serving the best pasta and desserts in the country. HOUTTUYN WELLNESS: The exclusive Houttuyn Wellness resort, located only 30 minutes from the city, offers riverside excellence with fantastic massage huts, amazing pools, great service, and exquisite food and smoothies. FREDERIKSDORP: Frederiksdorp is an old plantation I used to visit with my uncle as a child before it’s expansion into a resort. It offers diverse
BERG EN DAL RESORT: Berg en Dal is a luxury resort located two hours drive away from Paramaribo and caters perfectly to relaxation in your cabana or by the pool. You also have the heartracing option of visiting its adventure centre for a ziplining experience among the trees and over the river. ANAULA RESORT: This idyllic amazon rainforest resort is located by the Upper Suriname River where you pass rapids or ‘sulas’ as we call them, to get to your peaceful cottages overlooking the river. The service and attention to detail, catering to family requirements are heartwarming. We were welcomed to the nearby Maroon Villages to eat cassava bread, buy tribal art and truly get acquainted with their warm hospitality. I’m feeling nostalgic now, it might be time to book a flight home. n 7
OH GRENADA! This is the part of the Caribbean where you learn all about your spices, exotic flowers and THEN chill on the beach! By JEROME CONWAY
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HETHER travelling as a couple, a family or globetrotting alone, there’s something tantalising for everyone on this magical island. Here are some of our favourite things about Grenada, the spice island...
GROUP THERAPY: Smiles in the sun
1. The ‘spice island of the Caribbean’ is known for its exuberant rainforests, bright orchids, multi-coloured flowers and fragrant spices. It’s no surprise that the Grenada exhibit entitled Historical Botanical Gardens – Pure Grenada won its 13th gold medal at the prestigious RHS Chelsea Flower Show. 2. Grand Anse Beach is pristine and the most famous beach in Grenada. It is looked after with pride and never gets too busy to enjoy the sounds of cascading waves or simply read a book while sat under palm trees. Many of the best hotels on the island are dotted along this beach. 3. Indulge in the Grenadian culinary experience, from
Aquarium Restaurant at Magazine Beach on a Sunday for the BBQ with live music, to Fish Friday in Gouyave on a Friday night. If you’re a street food lover, head to Dodgy Dock in True Blue on a Wednesday evening. 4. If pure luxury is what you are after, look no further than
the multi award-winning Spice Island Beach Resort, which has everything you could desire from a family holiday. If you want more secluded luxury, Petite Anse has a lovely boutique hotel with a private beach surrounded by cocoa fields and farmland. 5. Belmont Estate is an authentic 17th century plantation
that offers guests an opportunity to participate in and observe the workings of a fully functional historic plantation. It has a world-class restaurant, museum, fabulous tours, petting farm, craft markets, cocoa processing and much more for the entire family to enjoy.
6. The Grenada Chocolate Company is a pioneer in organic sustainable bean-to-bar chocolate production. A
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visit to the factory in the village of Hermitage, St Patrick will not only seduce you into stocking up on some of these award-winning chocolates, but will educate you in how they are made. 7. Three words: UNDERWATER SCULPTURE PARK. Need we say more? It is a unique cultural experience underwater that you won’t want to miss. If you are an experienced scuba diver, this will quickly become one of your favourite sites in the world. 8. For the more adventurous, we would recommend a 45-minute hike through the rainforest of the Grand Etang National Park to get to the idyllic Seven Sisters Waterfalls. If you fancy an aerial view of the falls, why not try the brand new Grenada High Wire? It’s an unforgettable treetop canopy zip-line experience. 9. Carriacou is a small island in the Grenadines and an unforgettable day trip you can either reach by boat or a 15-minute plane journey. Go to Paradise Beach, and Curtis will serve you the best rum punch at the Off The Hook beach bar and restaurant. 10. The kindness of the people on this island is a selling
point on its own. Rent a car! Drive around! Make yourself at home, and they will make you feel safe and welcome. n
‘THREE WORDS: UNDERWATER SCULPTURE PARK’
BEACH PLEASE: Golden sand and waves to die for
PHOTOS: GTA
‘THE KINDNESS OF THE PEOPLE ON THIS ISLAND IS A SELLING POINT ON ITS OWN’
ROCK AND A HARD PLACE: Behind the scenes
DEEP SEA: Underwater treasures
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MUSIC,
Shabba Ranks
ST KITTS STYLE The Voice Traveller takes in the island’s annual showcase – and gets a whole lot more...
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HE St Kitts Music Festival has been going for 20 years and keeps going from strength to strength. As well as supporting many of their own homegrown and regional acts, over the years, they’ve had performances from some major international stars such as 50 Cent, Damian Marley, Ciara, Sean Paul, Michael Bolton, John Legend, Kelly Rowland, Shaggy, Tarrus Riley, Toni Braxton and Lionel Richie, to name a few. Last year, the 21st year of the St Kitts Music Festival, was kicked off in style. For the media, it started at the press conference in the morning, where we got the first taste of the band clash that was taking place on the first night between Grand Masters Band and Small Axe Band. Also performing on the first night, which is traditionally known as the soca and calypso night, were a mix of home grown and regional acts who really got our blood pumping with a 30-second taster of their vocals and the energy they would bring to their performances. That night, the band clash didn’t disappoint and the energy was felt in Warner Park Stadium in Basseterre, especially when Stadics, Ultimate Rejects and Shanna did their sets. When it started to rain, many ran for cover but then, the ‘queen of soca’ Alison Hinds came out for her performance with Square One. She commanded the crowd in a way I have not witnessed before. Within minutes, thousands of people were jumping with the same energy Hinds portrayed on stage. 12
Festival crowds
On day two of the festival, I learned how versatile the musical taste of the Kittitian population is. Third World lived up to what you would expect from reggae music royalty. It was an incredible performance and I was amazed at the strength and range of their vocals especially when AJ Brown sang a cover of Andrea Bocelli’s ‘Con Te Partiro’. If I could describe it in one word, it would be “goosebumps”. When Goo Goo Dolls did their set, everyone got involved. They performed one of their greatest hits ‘Iris’ and the crowd echoed the words. Backstage, Shabba Ranks was getting ready for his set, but still made time for a picture. Shabba is undoubtedly the undisputed king of dancehall; the crowd went crazy for Mr Loverman. His set left us yearning for more, especially of his early work.
On the final day of the festival, I was excited from the time we got to the press conference in the morning. There was so much to admire after hearing from the much anticipated females on the panel: K. Michelle, Phyllisia Ross, V. Bozeman and Briannagh D. They all had such powerful words of wisdom and encouragement that all women could relate to and take something away from. It was so nice to hear how many of them ran musical workshops and did community visits while they were in St Kitts to inspire the local youth to believe in their talents and work hard to reach their goals. All of them sang a short
‘St Kitts Music Festival has been going for 20 years’ rendition of one of their songs and I was blown away by their vocals. Whether the St Kitts Music Festival should be on the global map of festivals to plan a visit to is unquestionable. Apart from having a fantastic time at the festival and fringe events, I have seen some of the best beaches in the world in St Kitts and Nevis, visited UNESCO World Heritage sites, experienced something memorable while snorkelling, eaten in some world class restaurants and stayed in fabulous luxury hotels. BY RACHEL RITFELD n
BARBADOS Flying fish, rum, and plenty of cultural fun ... By NIGEL GORDON
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O you’re thinking of going to the Caribbean? Why not set your sights slightly east, where you’ll find the wonderful island of Barbados. Covering an area 21 miles long and 14 miles wide, Barbados is an established tourist destination, especially for British travellers, with more than a third of the island’s visitors coming from the UK. Tourism is the island’s bread and butter, contributing 12% to the island’s GDP and Bajans genuinely appear to derive satisfaction from going out of their way to ensure visitors have a pleasant vacation. The warmth of the Bajan people alone is enough to keep most tourists coming back for more, alongside the tropical temperatures and sandy white beaches. FOOD: If you consider yourself a foodie then Barbados is certainly the place, having more restaurants per capita than any other island in the Caribbean. The island’s most famous restaurant is The Cliff in St James. The restaurant itself is on two floors and perched above an idyllic cove. It is a perfect venue for special celebrations or for celebrity-spotting. If you make a reservation, consider making it for around 7pm and enjoy champagne or cocktails on the upper deck and the waterside tables. Nestled in the Parish of Christ Church you’ll find Oistins Bay Gardens a fishing village on the south coast of the island with several excellent restaurants. Oistins is a fantastic place to eat filled with locals and
tourists alike. RUM: Rum and sugar are woven into the fabric of Barbados and during the 17th century helped to make the island the “brightest jewel in the British crown”. Rum was to Barbados what mining was to Britain – a mammoth industry. Although, no longer the most important industry on the island, rum is everywhere and, depending on how you define a rum shop, there is anything in the region of 1,000 to 12,000 of them. A particularly good one is Nigel Benn Aunty Bar in Greenland in the north east parish of St. Andrew. There are also opportunities to learn about historic sugar production and see the techniques being used today by visiting the Portvale Sugar Factory Tour. Then there’s the Sugar and Rum Season Lecture Series, not forgetting Rum Expo (both in January). There’s also a Sugar and Rum Pop Up Village & Street Party in April and Sugar and Rum Cooking Classes at various times throughout the year. BEACHES: For a relatively small island, Barbados has many lovely beaches. With a coral limestone structure many wonderfully white, coral and pink sandy beaches are scattered around the island’s coast. Just a six minute drive from the airport and 30 minutes from Bridgetown you’ll find Crane Beach in the Parish of St. Philip. Although located in the Atlantic Ocean, Crane Beach perfectly encapsulates everything you’d expect to see in a picture postcard
of the Caribbean – undulating palm trees, clear white beaches, lapped by turquoise waves gently caressing the shore. The west coast of Barbados, often called the ‘Platinum Coast’, borders the Caribbean Sea and has much calmer, azure waters with the longest stretch of sandy beaches. It is here that celebrities like Simon Cowell and Hugh Grant holiday and where Sir Cliff Richard and Rihanna own houses. NIGHTLIFE: When it comes to nightlife, Bajans love to party, and they love to party hard. Whether to the indigenous music of spouge or calypso, reggae or soca, you’ll always find somewhere to dance in Barbados. Harbour Lights, the island’s oldest nightclub, just south of Bridgetown, is an open air venue offering a circus-like dinner extravaganza on a Monday and Wednesday night. Guests can enjoy their dinner whilst being entertained by acrobats, stilt walkers, fire eaters and limbo dancers. There’s plenty of audience participation so expect to be pulled into the show. No trip to Barbados would be complete without going to Holetown in the Parish of St. James. Holetown was the place the first English settlers landed in 1627. n For more information visit: www.visitbarbados.org
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PHOTO CREDIT: Rod Leon
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SHORE THING: Room with a view
BOLT OFF TO
JAMAICA
There’s something for everyone in Montego Bay. By Lydia Shaw
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HEN the Voice Newspaper offered guests of their Usain Bolt appreciation evening the chance to bid for a holiday in Jamaica, there were more than a few takers. However, Vanisha and Janna from London were the lucky winners on the night and what an experience they had. Their jaunt to the Caribbean saw them stay at the five star Montego Bay Jewel Grande hotel, the perfect start to a vacation in sweet, sweet Jamaica. With the Sangster International Airport located right outside of town, Montego Bay or MoBay as it is popularly called, is easy to get to and offers a bustling, colourful “hip strip” of shops and restaurants, and many different types of holiday activities that will keep you occupied during your stay. During their time at the Jewel Grande Vanisha and Janna, who had never been to Jamaica before, were both exposed to the ‘complete resort’ experience. Relaxing on the beach, going river rafting and
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enjoying one of five major championship golf courses are just some of the pastimes on offer. If you’re more into the luxurious element of a vacation, check out the various spas or pay a visit to Doctor’s Cave Beach, which is fed by mineral springs and said to have medicinal benefits. Vanisha and Janna didn’t take the children but if you do have kids they can enjoy entertaining activities at the supervised kids club, and teens even have their own hangout where they can relax. While the kids are busy at their clubs, parents can get their fitness game on at the fully-equipped
centre that includes all the latest machines as well as Yoga and Pilates classes, or you can sweat it out with a personal trainer there to challenge you. Couples looking for venues to secure their nuptials need look no further than the Jewel Grande who provide a ceremony that is organised by a dedicated wedding coordinator. The lucky couple will also have a personal planner with 24hour online access to your wedding details. For those who can’t help but spend some money when they are abroad,The Voice Traveller recommends you take a trip down to the city centre shopping mall. It’s a great shopping centre, with about 20 stores to explore. They carry clothing, souvenirs, and even a few things you may have forgotten to pack in your suitcase! n
TOP 10 THINGS TO DO IN JAMAICA 1. Dunn’s River
6. Mystic Mountain
2. Blue Mountains
7. Rick’s Cafe
3. Bob Marley Museum
8. River Rafting
4. Dolphin Cove
9. Rum Factory
Climb to the top of this national treasure before cooling off in one of the natural pools.
Explore the canopy in the best way possible by admiring views from a chairlift or jumping on a bobsleigh ride.
Hike to the highest peak on the island and experience the spectacular views and thriving wildlife.
Indulge in amazing food and experience the rush of cliff jumping but not recommended in that order!
Located in his old recording studios, you’ll get a behind the scenes look into the life of the King of Reggae.
The island’s number one attraction for couples to drift down the river and escape daily life.
Swim with majestic dolphins, and experience glass-bottom kayaking, shark shows and snorkelling with stingrays.
5. Rose Hall
Can’t get enough of our delicious Jamaican rum? Why not come and see how it’s made.
10. Catamaran Cruise
Take a trip to Rose Hall, the most haunted spot on the island.
Cruises for everyone, from romantic sunset dinners to the ultimate Jamaican boat parties.
This world-class resort in Montego Bay, Jamaica, will offer 299 accommodations from junior suites and villas to extravagant penthouses among the resort’s three towers, more than 25,000 square feet of window-filled meeting rooms, extravagant ballrooms, and expansive grand terraces for distinctive outdoor functions. THE PROPERTY FEATURES • Luxury oceanfront accommodation. • Italian inspired spa sanctary. • Personal butler service. • Oceanfront swimming pools. • Junior suites/ Villas to extravagant penthouses. • Seven culinary options.
• Private chef table demonstrations in-room. • Family friendly resort. • 25,000 square feet of meeting rooms. • Expansive terraces for outdoor functions.
To book Jewel Grande, please contact Sackville Travel. All-inclusive prices £360 per person 3 nights stay or 7 nights package holiday £1570pp. Including return flights with Virgin Atlantic for travel in Sept 2018. Must book by 8th June 2018.
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JAMROCKING ON THE HIGH SEAS
The Welcome To Jamrock Reggae Cruise makes a splash says DJ and journalist SEANI B
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OW in it’s fifth year, the Welcome To Jamrock Reggae Cruise is firmly established as one of the premier music cruises in the world. The brainchild of Damian ‘Junior Gong’ Marley, the cruise is a reggae lovers dream – five days on the high seas, leaving from Florida and routing through two stops in Jamaica before returning back to The Sunshine State. Hosting 3,000 cruisers aboard the Independence Of The Seas ship, Jamrock promised a mix of highly produced nightly concerts, an exclusive sound clash at sea and the world’s leading reggae DJ’s with entertainment 24/7. Leaving from Fort Lauderdale, the first night lineup from the 2016 excursion saw Kelissa and Chronixx dazzle the crowd with accomplished performances on their debut on the cruise. Star of the night was undoubtbly Sean Paul, whose international status was on full display to a capacity crowd. The night was concluded by a real reggae legend – Toots Hibbert. His 60-minute concert showed the class and catalogue of the man and he managed to engage the audience throughout with hit after hit after hit. The second day saw the ship make it’s way towards Jamaica, and not even the adverse weather conditions could stop the vibes. Romain Virgo proved his credentials as one of 18
the future stars of the genre with an accomplished performance that was followed by a trio of legends – Marcia Griffiths, Tarrus Riley and Mr Hitmaker himself, Vegas. One of the alluring elements of the cruise is the informal nature of it – stars and cruisers all intermingle throughout – from showtime to dining together, and the positive energy is quickly spread across the ship. Day three was a day on dry land – Montego Bay to be exact. As passengers disembarked, a new series of Jamaican-based artists got on board in time for that evening’s performances and what a night it was. Agent Sasco aka Assassin kicked things off before Jah Cure came out to wow his female fans. The highlight of the night was witnessing Bounty Killer and Beenie Man on the same bill and really showing the new generation how to do it. Both had sets of over one hour, packed with their hits, and stage performances that graced the setting. The raw and blunt delivery of Killer matched by the smooth and comedic delivery of Beenie – a real moment to savour. Bad weather forced Thursday’s proceedings to take place inside the 1,200 capacity theatre, and this meant that Damian Marley pushed his performance to Friday in the hope of delivering his set outdoors on the main deck. The UK’s Steel Pulse were the highlight of the stage show, having the multi-cultural audience
lapping up their roots rock reggae. Later that night saw the second annual ‘Soundclash At Sea’ featuring defending champions from Japan Mighty Crown alongside Canada’s King Turbo plus Jamaica’s Tony Matterhorn and Fire Links. In a tight race Mighty Crown prevailed as the winners of the title once more. So to the finale, and what a stellar line up – Mr ‘One Blood’ Junior Reid set the tone early on before the Gully God, Mavado, stepped up to deliver his eagerly anticipated debut on the Jamrock Cruise. He delivered on all fronts, with ‘So Special’ being a standout moment. The Marley brothers closed out festivities, with Stephen stepping up first and showcasing his latest album Fruit Of Life. The final act of the night was the captain of the ship, Damian Marley, who fittingly showed why he is at the helm of the reggae industry – as brilliant as ever. He also gave previews of his forthcoming album Stony Hill with tracks Caution and Nail Pon Cross. The crowd lapped up ever minute of it as we sailed our way back to Fort Lauderdale. An amazing concept, delivered in an ultra professional and engaging manner, the Welcome To Jamrock Reggae Cruise should be on everyones to do list for 2019. n
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STSUMMERLUCIA FESTIVALS READY TO ROCK Helen of the West Indies is the perfect place to Jazz up your holiday. By GEORGE RUDDOCK
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he beautiful island of St Lucia is the place to visit this summer if you are looking for a variety of cultural and music festivals to enjoy while soaking up the sun and some true island vibes. The Caribbean destination, known as Helen of the west, has long been appreciated for its rich and vibrant culture, breathtaking views, and friendly spirit, but also now has its summer festivals to add to the mix. The 2018 Soleil Summer of Festivals comprises of four events running from May to October starting with the world-renowned Jazz Festival, which runs May 6 –13. This will be followed by the annual St Lucia Carnival in June before moving on to the Roots and Soul Festival in August and culminating with the Heritage and Arts Festival in October. Each of the festivals dotted across the summer, will leave plenty of time for visitors to investigate the blue water bays, lush rainforest, glittering waterfalls, view the Pitons, the islands iconic mountain peaks, and swim in some of the many health-reviving volcanic springs dotted around. The Jazz Festival is certainly the main ingredient of the summer events and recently during a visit to
London, St Lucia’s Prime Minister Alan Chastenet spoke highly of the event which he says brings a unique blend of sound. “We will bring African, Latin American and French Jazz together and this combination will give patrons a unique Caribbean sound mixed with creole and zouk music,” Chastenet said as he addressed the media, travel agents and tour operators. The Jazz Festival will be staged at a number of venues and culminates in an open-air concert at the historic Pigeon Island landmark, on May 13. A few new venues were added to the festival this year including the Sandals Grande St Lucian Spa and Beach Resort which will feature ‘A World of Jazz’ from May 7. New also is the Harbour Club which will host ‘A Taste of Bourbon Street’ a two-night dinner set featuring Jazzmeia ‘Jazz’ Horn on May 10 and 11. The Royalton Saint Lucia Resort and Spa will host ‘The Lincoln Centre Jazz Experience’ on May 10, featuring five-time Grammy Award Winner Lalah Hathaway. Other international acts include: British vocalist and singer-songwriter Zara McFarlane Soloist Denys Baptiste, Haitian-American performing artist Pauline Jean, worldwide drummer Guadeloupean Arnaud Lalah Hathaway
Ronald Boo Hinkson
Robert Glasper
STAR OF THE SHOW: A plethora of artists will grace the stage 20
Dolmen, Cameroonian bassist Etienne Mbappé and the Prophets, Dominican guitarist Cameron Pierre and vocalist Carolyn Malachi. Also appearing is AZIZA, featuring saxophonist Chris Potter, double bassist Dave Holland, guitarist Lionel Loueke and drummer Eric Harland. Making the St Lucia Jazz line up as well is Alfredo Rodríguez, an internationally acclaimed Cuban jazz pianist. The festival will climax with an eclectic showcase at the Pigeon Island National landmark on Sunday, May 13, featuring The Frantz Laurac Quartet, Ronald ‘Boo’ Hinkson and Friends, R + R = NOW, a world-renowned combination of some of the greatest American musicians in the jazz world including threetime Grammy Award-winning pianist Robert Glasper, keyboardist and beat-boxer Taylor McFerrin and drummer extraordinaire Justin Tyson, . American soul sensation Avery Sunshine will cap things off at Pigeon Island with her thunderous gospel grooves and heart – to – heart content. There will also be a special tribute session to celebrate Saint Lucia’s Jazz icons featuring Luther Francois, Barbara Cadet and Ronald Boo Hinkson during the at the Pigeon Island showcase. n n More information on the festival line up and venue times are available at www.stlucia.org/ summerfestivals.
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TRIPS TO THE
HOLY LAND
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INCE 1962, the name Newmont Travel has been synonymous with the Caribbean community for discounted air travel to the Caribbean. From its humble beginnings on a stall in Shepherds Bush Market, this family owned business is now one of the largest seller of airline tickets to the Caribbean diaspora in the UK. Over the last number of years the company has diversified with its offerings to meet the needs of its clients. The company noticed an increasing trend that their clients did not just want to stay with friends and family when travelling back to the Caribbean and requests for hotels were becoming more frequent. This gave rise to its Caribbean Hotels product - which is now a standalone brand and has its own website where you can book anything from just a hotel room for a few nights to a fully inclusive holiday with flights, accommodation and transfers. Another and more diverse product also grew from the company working closely with community and church groups. Many of these organisations were interested in pilgrimage trips to the Holy Land, Israel. Newmont Travel employed a specialist in this area and this gave birth to Holy Land Travel. Now in its third year, the company has organised trips for both individuals as well as large church groups. They have three regulars set tours that operate 51 weeks of the year for individuals but in the case of groups they can organise bespoke packages. Working closely with the Israeli Government’s Tourist Board and local agents, Newmont Travel can source and put together bespoke programmes where clients are able to walk where Jesus walked and see and experience the sights, sounds and places that bring the Bible to life.
MOUNT OF BEATITUDES: Chapel and Garden
Their pilgrimage specialist said: “Although the programme is only three years old, many of the groups have now come back to book for a second year. “We try to make everything possible and as well as clients experiencing places such as Jerusalem, Bethlehem, Nazareth, The Dead Sea, Tiberias and the Galilee we have also organised bespoke requests.” All of their tours include flights, accommodation, a meal plan, in-land travel in air conditioned coaches which are conducted by authorised and specialist English-speaking guides. All bookings are ATOL protected under the companies ATOL number 3357. n n Visit: www.holylandtravel.co.uk n www.hotelsofthecaribbean.co.uk
JERUSALEM: Holy Sepulchre
THE WAILING WALL: The Kotel
PHOTO CREDITS: Israel Ministry of Tourism 22
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Hannekes Boom
MAKE AMSTERDAM YOUR NEXT GIRLS’ TRIP
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ON’T let the notoriety of coffee shops and red lights fool you, Amsterdam is the most versatile city in Europe. With a buzzing art scene, quirky architecture, historical intrigue and exhilarating nightlife, there are always new things to discover and people are always friendly. Not to mention: you will be singing “it’s raining men - hallelujah!” for the entire duration of your trip! SLEEP IN STYLE: Amsterdam Central Station is the epicentre of all the action. Transportation links are arguably the best in the world. For reasons of convenience and luxury, I would recommend staying at the nearby NH Collection Hotel Barbizon Palace. NEARBY GEMS - AMSTERDAM NORTH: Take one of the 24/7 free ferries to Amsterdam North – these provide great selfie opportunities with the impressive Eye Film Museum in the background. Put Tolhuistuin on your checklist for live jam sessions, fashion expos and poetry nights. At the weekend it turns into an eclectic club where all the trendy people hang out. Art and history: Stedelijk Museum has impressive exhibits for modern art lovers, while Museum Square is the perfect inbetweener for a picnic and people watching. Head to the newly-renovated Rijksmuseum 24
QUIRKY: Eye- Amsterdam
for Dutch art and history from the Middle Ages to the 20th century, and to explore masterpieces from Van Gogh, Vermeer, Rembrandt and more. The Oude Kerk (old church) is the biggest commissioner of art in the Netherlands. Their installations embrace and interpret many different forms of art such as a recent special exhibit called Are you ready to die? - a homage to late rapper Notorious B.I.G. The juxtaposed versatility of the diverse contemporary artists, masters in their field, establishes Oude Kerk as a trailblazer in curation of modern art. QUAINT AND QUIRKY: For those with an eye for fashion looking for unique items to set you apart from your pack 9 straatjes (9 little streets) is quaint and cosy, and full of designer and vintage boutiques.
Located near the canals, this is perfect opportunity to crack open a bottle of champagne on a sunset canal cruise. HAPPY HOUR: The uber-trendy, albeit a little pricey, Hiding in Plain Sight has numerous awards for serving “the best cocktails in The Netherlands”. Another great restaurant and bar is Tales and Spirits, serving a mouthwatering Truffle Risotto. Hannekes Boom (near the best science museum I’ve ever visited- Nemo museum) is a great waterside, shack-style bar and hangout, perfect for sunset mingling. I must recommend my native Surinamese cuisine at restaurant Waterkant for a to-die-for roti. Our people like to dance with our food so naturally the restaurant turns into a hip-hop and dancehall club after 10pm on the weekends. I don’t know about you, but dancing in high heels all night is hard. Club Paradiso solves this problem, dance all night in your sneakers and nobody cares. BY RACHEL RITFELD n
VENTURE TO
VENICE Explore the city of water, from the historic canals to iconic St. Mark’s Square. By LEAH SINCLAIR
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ITH a two and a half hour flight from London Gatwick, Venice is an accessible city to travel to and offers a wide variety of things to do, see and most importantly eat. Easyjet currently offers return flights to Venice from £57, and British Airways at £82. Upon landing at Venice’s Marco Polo or Treviso airport, things get slightly trickier – which is understandable considering the city is built upon water. A 40 minute ride from the ATVO bus (atvo.it; 70 min, €12 one way, €22 return) is needed before embarking on a water taxi ride into the heart of the majestic city. Once you do get to the centre of Venice, everything is within walking distance, and what a leisurely walk that is. From the cobbled back streets, to walking along the cruise ports, everything is easy to discover. However, there are the famous gondolas for those who’d prefer to experience Venice by water. FOOD: Now to my favourite part – the food! As Venice is such a small city, it’s easier to find those special dining experiences. Discover the numerous gelato shops, (one I found near St. Mark’s Square played jazz as I scoffed down hazelnut and caramel ice cream) pizzerias and Venetian bistros. From seafood linguine to peach Bellinis and authentic Italian pizzas – Venice is foodie heaven. Some of my favourite Venetian restaurants included La Zucca (www.lazucca.it/en/), a small yet charming restaurant located in the Santa Croce district and serves many creative Venetian dishes at affordable prices. The family-run trattoria Antiche Carampane (http://www.antichecarampane.com/it/), is another standout for their amazing seafood, and Ristorante Upupa (http://www. upupaghettovenezia.com) offers up a lighter, vegetable-centric cuisine. CULTURE: From Saint Mark’s Basilica to Doge’s Palace, every corner of the city is an architectural enthusiast’s dream; full of history and beauty. Visit the Palazzo Grazi (palazzograssi.it) for their contemporary art exhibitions, see the city through their iconic gondola rides (gondolavenezia.it) or Santi Giovanni e Paolo church (basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it) to complete your Venice getaway. n
GONDOLA: More than one way to get around
CHILLING ON A BOAT: Let someone else do the hard work
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BASK IN
BARCELONA Explore the beauty of Catalonia’s capital city. By LEAH SINCLAIR
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HORT breaks can be great for getting away on a budget. Whether it’s three days partying away in Stockholm, or taking in the culture of Madrid – minibreaks have the ability to be anything you want them to be. A great place to visit for city breaks is Barcelona - a vibrant city location perfect for architecture aficionados and party animals alike. TRAVEL: Barcelona is only a short flight away from the UK, with a maximum flight time of two hours from London to Barcelona, making it super efficient for that super short city break. Once you arrive in the city, it doesn’t take long to access the various landmarks and make it to the heart of the city, thanks to Barcelona’s frequent buses, metro, and a plethora of taxis lining up the streets – if you feel like splashing the cash. Easyjet currently offer affordable flights to the popular Spanish city, from London Gatwick to Barcelona El-Prat airport for £66, alongside rival airline Ryanair who offer return flights for as little as £40. FOOD: Barcelona has many food options, particularly along La Rambla, one of the busiest streets in Barcelona. Here you’ll find many tapas bars, the amazing food market La Boqueria, along with McDonald’s (of course) and many tourist friendly restaurants and bars. However, it’s a little tricky to find the best of the best, and definitely requires some research,
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otherwise you’ll find yourself eating sub par tapas with watered down sangrias for your entire trip. One of the little-known gems I came across in Barcelona was Passadís d’en Pep - if you’re looking for the quintessential tapas experience, this restaurant serves some of the best fish dishes and tapas in town. Other notable restaurants include: n Pinhan Cafe - great for breakfast, very good coffee and an amazing selection of eggs and pastries n Bar Ramón - experience classic Spanish and Catalan dishes at this Blues, jazz and rock & roll themed restaurant n La Informal - in need of a good burger? La Informal offer a selection of gourmet burgers with a mouth watering choice of meats, toppings and breads from which to choose. CULTURE: Barcelona is great for nightlife, as well as its intricate gothic architecture. You can scour the city looking at the best of Antoni Gaudí’s work; from the Sagrada Familia to the amazing Park Guell, and then rave throughout the night along the beach strip with numerous bars and clubs. However if you’re not much of a techno lover (like me) then many of those clubs may not be for you – but the architecture and galleries (Picasso’s in particular is pretty great) can keep you entertained during the break. SHOPPING: Get your affordable shopping as Barcelona offers a great choice of independent boutique shops and mainstream high street stores. From Zara and H&M to vintage stores like Loisaida Vintage and Lullaby, the shopping experience alone will make you fall in love with beautiful Barcelona. n
‘BARCELONA IS GREAT FOR NIGHTLIFE’
There’s plenty of culture to enjoy
The food market at La Boqueria
AWESOME
OSLO RODNEY HINDS takes in scenic Oslo
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have to confess that Oslo took me pleasantly by surprise. It was my first visit to a Scandinavian country and I was mightily impressed. Yes, I’d heard about the famous Northern Lights. To experience the unbelievable colours that move across the Arctic sky is on many travellers’ bucket list. Few places on earth offer more ways to witness the Aurora Borealis than Norway. However, there is much more to Norway than that. I’m not known for my love of architecture but I could still appreciate the stunning Oslo Opera House – minutes from my hotel - which is located right at the harbour, with an angled, white exterior that appears to rise from the water. It invites visitors to climb its roof (and I did so) and enjoy panoramic views of Oslo and the fjord, all year round. Large-scale windows at street level provide the public with glimpses of rehearsals and workshop activities. The building’s interior is mainly oak, and the main hall is shaped like a horseshoe, reminiscent of classical theatres of the past. The opera is designed by the Norwegian architecture firm Snøhetta, and has received several prestigious awards. I can see why. The Norwegian National Opera & Ballet offers a rich and varied programme from three stages: The Main House (1369 seats), Second House (400 seats) and the Studio (200 seats). The Opera roof and foyer are also used for concerts. I stayed at the Thon Hotel Opera which was literally a stone’s throw from Oslo Central Station, the largest railway station within the entire Norwegian railway system. The staff were helpful and friendly and the hotel had all the amenities – gym, sauna etc – that you would expect. There’s dozens of eateries and bars nearby so satisfying your appetite will never be a problem. I was blessed by excellent weather during my stay, which
SETTINGS: Hindsight at The Royal Palace
NEED TO KNOW FLIGHTS: Rodney flew with SAS (www.flysas.com) WHERE TO STAY: Radisson Blu Plaza Hotel (www. radissonblu.com), Comfort Hotel Grand Central (www. nordicchoicehotels.com) and Thon Hotel Opera (www. thonhotels.no)
always helps. With the sun out, I took a visit to the nearby and imposing Royal Palace which is open to the public during the summer. All visitors must follow a guided tour. Entrance is by Slottsgården on the west side (the back) of the Royal Palace. Each tour lasts for approximately one hour. I also took in Frogner Park which contains hundreds of Vigeland’s sculptures depicting people’s emotions in all stages of life. Thankfully I went through the Vigeland studio museum before visiting the park. It helped me to better understand Vigeland and appreciate his works. Oslo surprised me to the point where I would certainly make a return journey. It wasn’t on my original ‘places to go’ list but that’s the thing about travelling – never judge a book by its cover or place on a map in this case. The real plus for me was that I normally take long haul flights, which leave you a wreck once you get to your destination. It was great to take a short haul flight, land and enjoy new surroundings from the get go! n
WHERE TO EAT: Homan Bistro (www.homanbistro. no) Theatercaféen (www. andershusa.com) and Brasserie Paleo (www. rasseriepaleo.no) WHAT TO DO: Visit the Royal Palace, Norwegian National Opera & Ballet and Nordic Food Walking Tour in Oslo
‘TAKE A VISIT TO THE ROYAL PALACE, OPEN TO THE PUBLIC IN THE SUMMER’ 29
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HIGH LIFE IN MONACO There’s France and then there’s the Principality Monaco. By JOEL CAMPBELL
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T’S a mecca for the rich and famous, a sporting haven, the ultimate beach holiday and a shoppers paradise. It’s the Principality Monaco. The south of France is a popular destination for so many different reasons but when I ventured out there recently for Usain Bolt’s last ever race at The Stade Louis II, I couldn’t help but feel like I belonged. From my room at the Le Méridien Monte Carlo hotel, the only beach resort in Monte Carlo with access to a private beach area, I had a city view room which didn’t feel like the short end of the stick. So often when you travel to these places you’re left hoping that you won’t be shafted by the room that you are assigned, putting you in a situation where you have to complain before you even get you’re evening meal. That wasn’t the case here. Staff were more than accommodating when I checked in and when I got the chance to take a peak at the sea view rooms the only feeling I got was: I have a reason to come and stay here again. The pool, the tranquil atmosphere, the comfy seats in all of the bar areas, it’s all classy. As for the breakfast in the morning, three chefs were handling the omelettes, that’s the kind of attention to detail I like. No one wants to queue for eggs first thing. The only other place I would have even thought about staying while I was in Monaco was the Fairmont. The hotel sits right on one of the iconic hairpins of Formula One race history and as you approach it, you can’t help but be impressed by it’s architecture. Big foyer, multiple onsite attractions such as a world re32
nowned casino and flagship Nobu restaurant let you know that you’re in a premium spot. In truth, both digs offer a reason to lay your head there and sandwiched in the middle of a three-quarter mile walk between the two options is a beach the type of which is hard to find fault with. Sport took me to Monaco, athletics to be precise, and fans of track and field can look forward to a high calibre event there every year. Football fans will be aware of The Stade Louis II as Monaco have been flying high in Ligue 1 in recent years producing home grown talent that has seen the club attract some of the biggest transfer fees in history. There’s also the chance to do a bit of sailing. If you’re not well versed on how to manage a boat, leave it to the experts (you can hire a boat and captain from Le Méridien) but whatever you do, try and get out to sea. If you think Monaco looks good from land, wait
until you get a wave-side glimpse of it, especially at night. If sport is not your thing, there’s always the historical and regal elements of the principality that may take your fancy. The Prince Palace, founded in 1191, has been the Grimaldi Family residence since the 13th century. Experience a captivating journey through the Italian Gallery, main courtyard, the Louis XV ballroom and the throne room. A must see: the change of the guard everyday at precisely 11.55am, the perfect frame for a splendid panorama. The Oceanographic Museum is another culturally elevating spot and was founded in 1910 by Prince Albert I. This museum is dedicated to marine science, with an exceptional collection of marine fauna including the renowned shark’s lagoon. The breathtaking aquarium consists of 90 tanks, and is home to some of the rarest species of fish with various shapes, sizes and colours n ARISTOCRACY: Palatial gates
STADE LOUIS II: Sports heritage
AIN’T NO MOUNTAIN
HIGH FORENOUGH FATHER AND DAUGHTER Admit it, you’ve often wondered what it would be like to climb Mount Everest. Apparently, it takes your breath away! By JOEL CAMPBELL
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EVERAL thousand pounds were raised for a Jamaican hospital by businessman Wade Lyn CBE who embarked on an intrepid trek to the Mount Everest South Base Camp in Nepal alongside his daughter Cleo and both agree that it is the type of holiday they would love to do again. Tales of altitude sickness that can scupper all attempts to reach the peak where mountain climbing is concerned often puts off many who look into scaling new heights in their quest to broaden their holiday portfolios. Who wants to be sick on holiday, right? But Cleo, 27, told The Voice Traveller that the fears are exaggerated and the reward of pushing through any discomfort you might experience far outweigh negatives. Dismissing her father’s worries that the trip was blighted by sickness brought on by the heady ascent, she said: “I think dad and I have different opinions on whether I suffered from altitude sickness. I don’t think I did and in comparison to some others who trekked with us, it was nothing. Altitude can manifest in numerous ways and for me it was about trying to understand what kind of symptoms those would be before I embarked on the trek.” Explaining how she readied herself for the Everest adventure Cleo added: “That was one of the reasons why I trekked Mt Etna beforehand so I could understand how it felt so if it (altitude sickness) did happen then I can deal with it. “The worst thing you can do is panic as you’ll use up a lot of oxygen, which you don’t want to do in this kind of situation. For me it was just some restless nights and just getting out of breath at the simple things like getting changed in the morning. I now like to think I know what it feels like to be an asthmatic. “My advice would be try and do some altitude training before you go either on a mountain or in an altitude chamber, just so you know what it feels like if you haven’t before. As my friend said, you could climb the same mountain 10 times and every time you will have a different experience.” Talking about his preparation for the Everest climb Wade said he’d “trained for three or four months” to continued on page 36
WINNER: Repping Jamaica
‘MY ADVICE WOULD BE TO DO SOME ALTITUDE TRAINING BEFORE’
Father and daugther flying the flag high
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reach a decent level of fitness, climbing Snowdon a couple of times and going to the gym daily. He added: “I was sporty when I was younger – I used to run the 400 metres representing the Midlands Counties – but I am in my 50s now. “We didn’t have any rain or snow but in the nights the temperature dropped down to pretty near zero. But, apart from the cold on the last few nights, it went well.” Wade was able to generate £10,000 to purchase vital medical equipment for the Princess Margaret Hospital in St. Thomas, Jamaica, as a result of his climb on Everest. Talking about her motivation for the once in a life time feat, Cleo said: “The whole point of the lead up to Everest was a final finish in a year of challenges for my close friend. She was raising money for a charity called Mind, that is very close to her heart. “We thought it would be a good idea to get as much mountain practice as possible, as I had never really climbed mountains before. I didn’t know what to expect but I am glad I did. The first set of mountains was the three peaks challenge within 24 hours. That was tough as we would climb up and down a mountain and then get on a bus to the next. Ben Nevis in Scotland was the first and the steepest, but the worst was Scarfel pike. We climbed that at 11pm at night in pouring rain and cold. “All of that climbing beforehand got me ready for what to expect and to some degree what it would be like on Everest. That journey was truly amazing and I still can’t quite believe it at times. The feeling to walk for seven days and climb that mountain, seeing the beautiful mountain views we saw and experiencing it with a group of like minded people as well as two of the most important people in my life, will always be an unforgettable experience.” Wade added: “I enjoyed going up, coming down and I enjoyed the team. I’d do it again. I actually said it was a nice holiday. The really good thing was that the two of us went. “When we reached the peak it was a moment. I’d 36
GEARED UP: Ready to climb
NEED TO KNOW How to follow in the footsteps of Wade and Cleo: FLIGHT TO DELHI: Connect flight to Kathmandu Final small aeroplane flight to Lukla Airport
sprained my ankle but it’s something I would say to people you talk about it but never think you will do it. It’s reasonably priced and I would do it again.” Cleo added: “It is an ultimate adventure holiday. It was amazing in that we did it with a large group, got to experience the local culture, while climbing one of the biggest mountains in the world. “Climbing Everest has to be up there as the best holiday experience. It was a challenge for me in a mental sense more than a physical. The mix of adventure and culture on the trip was what certainly made it. Nepalese people are lovely and their culture is very interesting, which is what makes it a great place to go, even if you don’t climb Everest. If you do go then you won’t be disappointed.”n
TREK TO BASE CAMP STARTS: Every third day of climbing you have a day off to rest your lungs. Climb takes about eleven fourteen days to reach Base Camp
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A LITTLE PIECE OF
PARADISE Mauritius is somewhere you can find wildlife and beaches side by side. By ANNE-LAURE MEUNIER
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AURITIUS is well known for its pure shores, diverse culture, sugar cane plains and some of the finest resorts in the world. However, despite its reputation for white sandy beaches, it actually contains vast amounts of natural parks that house an extensive range of flora and fauna. For nature lovers visiting the country, take a day expedition to the South (Mahébourg, Blue Bay) and visit Ile aux Aigrettes, where you’ll find a small atoll where man and nature unite towards one common aim. The origin of the name ‘Ie aux Aigrettes’ is from a colony of birds which inhabited the island during the 1600’s. Egrets are graceful white fishing animals with long legs. This tiny coral island was declared a nature reserve in 1965 and is, since 1987, under the management of the Mauritian Wildlife Foundation (MWF). For more than 20 years now the foundation has been trying to make Île aux Aigrettes a natural and safe place for endemic and endangered flora and fauna. 38
This local NGO dedicated to the conservation of rare species has put colossal efforts in 26 hectares of coral island, to get rid of exotic species and let the original forest recover. By opening the doors of Ie aux Aigrettes to the public, the foundation is hoping to integrate the local population and international customers into the beautiful and noble work being performed on this green jewel. Here you will discover this beautiful ecological spot and enjoy original Mauritian nature with an expert guide alongside leading the way. You will explore plants and animals, unique to Mauritius and found nowhere else in the world. Some of them have come
‘THE AIM OF THESE GUIDED TOURS IS TO INTRODUCE YOU TO THE NATURAL HERITAGE OF MAURITIUS’ close to extinction like the pink pigeon, a bird that was in danger of extinction for many years. You will also have the opportunity to visit the indigenous grass nursery. There you should also look
out for the Mauritius Kestrel, endangered skinks and of course, the giant tortoises. All nature lovers are encouraged and can take part in one of the many tour options: The standard Eco tour provides a guided trail around the sites of interest on the island, lasting approx. 1.5 to 2 hours, with a short boat trip to and from the reef. The tailor-made tours can be booked in advance to cater for any special interests that you might have, such as photography or birdwatching. The aim of these guided tours is to introduce you to the natural heritage of Mauritius and to provide, through an educational programme, a better understanding of the natural surroundings that will lead to a better appreciation of the natural environment and a desire to protect it. If you are planning a trip to Mauritius, don’t think only of beaches and water sports. There are so many eco-tourism activities that can be included in your journey. You can go mountain climbing, biking or hiking on verdant highlands and forests. With these nature trips included, you are sure to find your holiday more exciting and fulfilling. n www.mauritian-wildlife.org
Victoria VictoriaFalls Falls
Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon lovelyflight.... must have David beenLivingstone gazed upon byScenes angels so in their by angels in their flight.... David Livingstone
zambiatourism zambiatourism
tourismzambia tourismzambia
www.zambia.travel www.zambia.travel
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ZAMBIA BOUND
Zambia have had their ups and downs as a country but the beauty has never changed. By ISABEL CONWAY
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AN endless stream of wildlife will keep you enthralled” they promise. I’m in the stylish reception area of the Mfuwe Lodge - overlooking hippo and croc filled lagoons in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park - and it’s time to test out the validity of the aforementioned promise. Here is reputedly one of Zambia’s best places for wildlife and I, and my other intrepid explorers, pile aboard an open jeep for the evening game drive as dusk descends creating mysterious shadows after a spectacular sunset. “We have a special relationship with our wild animals”, Suzyo Zimba, our astute and knowledgeable guide explains. “There’s mutual respect, we give the animals their space so they never feel threatened; in return we’re allowed to come very close to them here”. He’s right, that’s if you rule out our first sighting – the family of warthog nicknamed ‘the Kalahari Ferrari’ who on our approach zoom off tails antennae erect. Minutes later an enormous hippo emerges from a lagoon, her back festooned with water cabbage. Her baby trots alongside heading for their grazing terrain. They are picture perfect and the cameras click away. 40
Some of Mfuwe’s tracks are waterlogged and potholed after the rains. As our powerful vehicle’s wheel descends into a deep crater, engine revving and gears screeching an angry bellowing erupts from behind the trees and a bull elephant emerges, anything but pleased to see us. Mighty ears flap furiously and he looks ready to charge. “No worries” says Suzyo, “We’ll just keep driving forwards and let him see there’s room for all of us around here. If we reverse he might decide to take advantage!” By now two of the rear seat passengers are hiding behind their blankets in terror! His bluff called the elephant duly lumbers off into the bush. A veteran of a few African safaris, I’ve decided no evening game drive can match this one in South Luangwa for pumping the adrenaline. We search on for the elusive leopard whose numbers are healthy in South Luangwa but are often notoriously hard to see. Eyes peeled we are bounced up and down along a maze of tracks. Suddenly Suzyo whispers “hush” to silence the chattering South African ‘city girl’ travel agents aboard.
A loud cracking noise is coming from the bushes ahead accompanied by a deep, snarly growl. Our transport grinds to a halt and the spotlight lamp illuminates a scene straight out of National Geographic. A male lion is crunching through his dinner – a whole warthog (hopefully not one of those we saw earlier) that he tears at ferociously pulling meat from bone in big chunks. Blood smeared fangs, paws and mane are metres away. Almost touching our fender a lioness (who most likely had delivered dinner) lies watching the food longingly. But whenever she edges nearer to it she’s repelled with an angry warning snarl from the hungry lion. Next day, still searching for the elusive leopard (I had hoped to see one at the bush camp where other guests enjoyed several sightings but it was not to be) we came across the same lion and lioness. The night before six lionesses thought to be members of the same pride had crossed the lawn in front of Mfuwe while we enjoyed pre-dinner drinks. An African veteran, Ian Salisbury, general manager at Mfuwe Lodge, tells us hunter turned dedicated conservationist the late Norman Carr pioneered the walking safari in Zambia. Vast and sparsely populated, Zambia is one of Africa’s most unspoilt and peaceful countries full of tourism potential and a superb place to go on safari with its extensive wildlife and pristine scenery. Zambia is most famous for being home to the
‘THE FALLS WERE IN THEIR PRIME, 10 MILLION CUBIC LITRES EVERY SECOND’
legendary Victoria Falls that it shares with Zimbabwe, one of the seven natural wonders of the world and a must see for everyone visiting this landlocked country. As the guide book rightly observes: “visiting Zambia and not seeing Victoria Falls is unthinkable, like dropping in on Colorado and forgetting the Grand Canyon”. The Falls were in their prime during my visit with a phenomenal 10 million cubic litres every second dropping to a depth of 103 metres along its almost 2 km long expanse between Zambia and Zimbabwe. They were framed by a perfect rainbow emerging from behind canopies of spray. Get there during the dry season and you can take a dip in the ‘Devil’s Pool’ and go white water rafting in rapids with names like ‘Terminator’ and ‘Judgement Day’. Bungee jumping and abseiling are among the other year round adrenaline rush offerings. In 1855 the first white man to set eyes upon Mosioa-Tunya (the Smoke that Thunders), its local name, Dr
David Livingstone - the Scottish explorer - and missionary declared “scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.” Livingstone, Zambia’s most popular tourist centre, is also gateway to superb stretches of the upper Zambezi. I took myself off to two of its special lodges perched on the banks of Africa’s fourth largest river; Waterberry, long established and noted for comfort, friendliness and great food and the luxurious Tongabezi, rated one of Africa’s top river lodges with sumptuous accommodation and an all-round five star experience. Both lodges offer a list of activities from fishing to sunset and sunrise cruises, bird watching etc. Visits to local villages and schools - built and supported financially by lodges and guests’ donations - are encouraged underlining a genuine desire to improve local communities and let them benefit from tourism. A stop-off in Zambia’s capital, Lusaka whose new state of the art airport terminal is nearly complete, is the norm if you are arriving from outside Africa. One of the African continent’s fastest growing cities, Lusaka has no fewer than 20 shopping centres, enjoys frequent traffic gridlock and new developments are going up rapidly. One of the best tourist attractions is a wonderful elephant orphanage Lilayi a 45 minute drive out of the city. After a couple of nights stay at the friendly and comfortable Lusaka Grand Best Western Plus Hotel, I was getting the inside track on the city’s burgeoning development and Zambia’s great tourism potential.n
NEED TO KNOW WHERE TO STAY:If you only enjoy one hotel experience in Lusaka let it be at the Raffles style Intercontinental in the diplomatic district. The place oozes colonial charm harking back to times when going on safari was a tedious and even dangerous pursuit involving days of travel by road into the wilds, with few if any, creature comforts. Many a traveller let their hair down here before departure and on returning to civilization the safari goer looked forward to a bath and good food at their journey’s end. Times may have changed in the world of safari experience but that didn’t stop me letting down my hair at the Intercontinental ‘club’ either! n For further information on Zambia see www.zambia.travel
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KRUGER PARK SAFARI: TRIP OF A LIFETIME
South Africa provides VIC MOTUNE and his new wife with a wonderful honeymoon and a chance to see spectacular wildlife.
H
AVING never been on a safari holiday before, I wasn’t too sure what to expect when my wife booked a trip to Kruger Park for our honeymoon. Given the choice, I’d always go for somewhere with museums and galleries over time spent observing wildlife. But visiting Kruger Park, in northeastern South Africa, changed all that. After an eleven hour flight from Gatwick we arrived at Johannesburg’s O.R.Tambo International Airport then had another four hour drive to the luxury lodge we’d be staying at situated just outside Kruger Park. But the exhaustion of the long trip was soon forgotten as we headed out for a 42
short pre-breakfast drive with the lodge’s guide where we saw a couple of rhinos, buffalo and kudu (a species of antelope) for the first time. After breakfast we headed out on route to the park itself entering at the Paul Kruger Gate on the west side of the park. It is arguably the largest National Park in the whole world covering a massive area of over 20,000 square kilometres and extending along the boundaries of Zimbabwe and South Africa. You can choose to take a tour of the park with one of the expert guides or rangers from the various tourist companies licensed to operate within the
park (as we did) or you can do a self-drive tour which is much cheaper. However, the safari tours are perhaps the safest way to get as close as possible to the wildlife without putting yourself in danger. The guided tour was a great option for us because it helped us achieve what almost everyone who visits Kruger Park comes for – to see the big five game animals: rhino, elephant, buffalo, lion and the elusive leopard which we saw on our last day. In between tracking the big five we saw a huge variety of other wildlife. In fact, it was difficult for me to fully comprehend the vastness and beauty of the park as we drove around it. I also learned some fascinating facts, well, fascinating to me anyway! Did you know a giraffe only sleeps for 20 minutes each day? Kruger Park offers so much that you’ll probably need to spend some time planning your trip if you have your heart set upon seeing certain types of animals. n
NEED TO KNOW ACCOMODATION: The Park has a range of accommodations to choose from starting with the premium bungalows to air conditioned cottages with or without kitchens. For the more frugal traveller, huts and tents are not just more affordable they get you closer to the wildlife experience. FOOD: Many safari packages offer a delicious selection of local food such as poached eggs on a Boerewors patty (a specialist sausage) and Kudu burgers from a Braai, a traditional African BBQ. It’s also worth trying biltong - a variety of dried, cured meat made from beef and game meats.
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43
LAND OF ORIGINS
East Africa has history you never knew about. BY GETNET HAILU
M
ANY know Ethiopia as an ancient African country, one of the oldest states in the world, positioned on one of the world’s greatest trade routes, with a recorded history, culture, and traditions dating back over 3,000
years. But few are familiar with the salient features of today’s Ethiopia. A bird’s eye view reveals the upward trajectory that Ethiopia has achieved over the past 25 years. Its clear vision of its destination and how to get there, coupled with a conducive environment to woo foreign direct investment, a fast-growing economy – 11 per cent increase for the last decade - on the back of strong exports of coffee, livestock and cut flowers, a huge consumer market, untapped natural resources, a trainable low-cost labour force, and new road, rail and telecom connections to ease connectivity in trade and investment, have made Ethiopia a favourite investment destination. The ultimate goal is to woo domestic and foreign investors into the tourism sector and increase the inflow of tourists from all over the world. Ethiopia is ready for business, and so far, the response has been encouraging. Investors from Turkey, China, India, the United Kingdom, Saudi Arabia, America and Africa are ensconced in Ethiopia and are confident of the prospect of continued growth of their investment. At present, foreign investors are still all ears, remaining open to the possibilities. Dozens of investors from various countries have accompanied their respective heads of state on official visits to Ethiopia, and there’s hope 2018 will see deeds translate into investment in Ethiopia. Last year the country launched a new national tourism brand heralding a distilled narrative and 44
HANDS UP: There’s joy in the air
story of Ethiopia, ‘Ethiopia: Land of Origins’. Ethiopia is the cradle of mankind and most likely where humans evolved. Unearthing the 3.2 million year-old and internationally renowned hominoid skeleton, Lucy, and the 5.5 million-year-old hominid fossil, placed Ethiopia firmly on the map of tour operators. The origin of the world’s oldest stone-age tools dating back 2.6 million years is Ethiopia. It is in Ethiopia where a 200,000 year-old pair of skulls, unearthed along the Omo River, has made them the world’s oldest known remains of anatomically modern homo sapiens. Coffee, the world’s favourite beverage,
originated in Ethiopia. One of the world’s longest rivers, The Nile, originates in Ethiopia. Formerly referred to as ‘Ethiopia: Land of 13 Months of Sunshine’ the new moniker embodies a feeling of going home to find the truth, whether or not you are actually from the country. The Ethiopian tourism board summed up the east African nation, saying: “Ethiopia invites you on an adventure in which you will discover the origin of so much. History that is a mysterious mix of myth, legend and fact, culture that is vibrant, creative, alive and shared; and a landscape that is warm, dramatic, primal and teeming with life”.
‘ONE OF THE WORLD’S LONGEST RIVERS, THE NILE, ORIGINATES IN ETHIOPIA’
Africa’s biggest road race LONDON, New York and Berlin are well-known for their big-city marathon races. But did you know that Ethiopia has its own version of a mass-participation running festival in the form of its annual 10km race staged in November? Every year more than 40,000 runners take to the streets of Addis Ababa for what has become known as one of the most colourful and noisy road races anywhere in the world. The carnival atmosphere starts early in the morning and lasts well beyond the last runner has crossed the finish line. Many international participants also take the opportunity to visit some of Ethiopia’s historical sites, combining the run with a tour in the Ethiopian Highlands. One of the race’s founders, former international marathon runner Richard Nerurkar, now runs a travel company sending tourists
to Ethiopia and would be happy to help with your arrangements for your tour.
Road cycling in Ethiopia:
Ethiopia is probably not the first place you might think of when considering a cycling destination. But this is now slowly changing, thanks in part to the construction of a network of new, shiny tarmac roads particularly in the north of the country which for years has had a rich cycling culture of its own. If you’re looking for somewhere new – and somewhere sunny and warm during the cold months of the European winter – then you might want to give this a try. The northern Ethiopian province of Tigray where the tours are staged is also home to UCI Pro Tour rider Tsgabu Grmay and if you’re lucky you might even get chance to ride with him!
WHEEL DEAL: Up hill in Ethiopia 45
MALAWI: BUSH AND BEACH DESTINATION Get ready to explore ‘intensive and exclusive wildlife viewing in unspoilt areas of genuine wilderness.’ By JOEL CAMPBELL
T
HERE aren’t many places in Africa where you can be tracking down game in the morning, and relaxing on golden sandy beaches with a cocktail in the afternoon. A country hemmed in by safari capitals Zambia and Tanzania, Malawi is often overlooked. Although small, it is packed full of adventure, varied terrain, wonderful wildlife and golden sandy beaches to rival many on the Indian ocean. Travelling around the country is a breeze, and not only is the scenery on route stunning, but in just two hours by road you travel from bush to beach. Dominating this country is the 560km-long, 75km-wide and 705m-deep Lake Malawi. More like an inland sea, the lake is laced with stunning beaches and the crystal clear blue waters are literally a water sports enthusiast’s paradise. Kayaking, sailing, snorkelling, scuba diving and water skiing are just some of the lake activities available to visitors. More than 800 species of endemic cichlid fish have been recorded in Lake Malawi - no lake in the world holds such a varied and distinctive community. Malawi is blessed with a rich diversity of flora and fauna and has nine National Parks and Game Reserves - some of Africa’s most undiscovered wildlife hotspots. In the south, Liwonde National Park is brimming with elephants whilst the Shire River attracts countless hippos and crocodiles. Nyika National Park, in the North, is Malawi’s largest national park with one of the highest densities of leopard in Central Africa. It is a region for those who wish to experience Africa at its most unspoiled and authentic. If it’s the big five you’re after then head to Majete Wildlife Reserve. One of Malawi’s leading wildlife sanctuaries, the reserve is home to 10,000 animals and a decade ago saw the reintroduction of 2,500 new animals, including lion, black rhino and leopard. The country really does provide intensive and exclusive wildlife viewing in unspoilt areas of genuine wilderness. All types of safaris are on offer here, on foot, by boat, in 4x4 and even bicycles! And, just a stone’s throw from the reserves, you can take it easy relaxing by the lake with a local Malawian gin and tonic in hand. n
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MULTIPLE CHOICE: Malawi has it all but few people know about the options
A CULTURAL FUSION:
MOROCCO TUSDIQ DIN experiences a cultural revelation on a visit to Tangier
T
O which city can you travel to for year round warm weather, and a city which is in close proximity to the United Kingdom? If you ever thought about Tangier in this regard, but then concluded that you’ll get around to travelling here eventually, the decision to visit this exotic Moroccan city will be an inspired one. Situated at the top of the African continent, Tangier is located on the North African coast at the western entrance to the Strait of Gibraltar. Tangier’s Mediterranean beauty and charm is evident almost immediately after you set foot
‘DON’T BE AFRAID TO HAGGLE FOR YOUR GOODS’ on this gem of Morocco. The luscious palm tree lined Mohammed VI boulevard boasts a massive promenade where most of Tangier’s coastal hotels are located. The best way to explore Tangier is on foot. So many vistas vie for your attention, from the stunning beaches, the busy smoke-filled mint tea infused cafes and restaurants, and, where walking is definitely a must, the old city, the Medina. The sights and sounds of this hilly area a few hundred yards from the ferry port transport you to a time of intrigue, espionage, suspense and suspicion. This was after all an internationally governed protectorate until 1956, where France, Spain and the UK had alternate terms of governing. A part of Morocco for over six decades now, large tour groups, German, Spanish and Japanese visitors meander in idyllic wonderment
at the medina, transfixed on their traditional sights as their Moroccan guide provides information. Although English is spoken, if you have a smattering of French, Spanish or Arabic it will be that much easier to get by as you embrace the narrow alleyways of stores stocking cloth, leather goods, brasswork, exotic fruit, nuts, spices and souvenirs. Don’t be afraid to haggle for your goods, this is perfectly acceptable and actually adds to the overall cultural experience. The beautiful corniche affords breathtaking views of the Strait of Gibraltar, and over in the distance, the coastline of Spain in visible. The beachfront attracts many visitors and the stunning light bathes the horizon highlighting the blues of the sea and the sky. The evenings take on a different family-friendly vibe, street vendors, donkey rides, and pop up hot tea sellers bring their own charm to the beach. n
SEA VIEW: Gibraltar is close to Morocco
CASTLE COMFORT: One of many in Tangier
SHOPPING: Bits to buy
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UGANDA
GENUINE HOSPITALITY The aim of the fast rising Serene Suites Hotel is to showcase the renowned hospitality of Ugandans.
O
ur first class service began several years ago when our founder, Esther Mpumuza, had a dream to give her guests a real ‘home and away’ adventure through our serene suites African experience. Our facilities include swimming pools, serene suites lounge,restaurants with Mongolian dishes on the menu, a health spa, gyms, exquisite gardens and a unisex salon. We pride ourselves with the fact that our facilities match those of any 5 star hotel in the country because we are rich in splendour, warm service and our quiet community offers our guests a real African experience. Being on the hill of Mutundwe in Rubaga division, the entire view of Kampala can be seen from our facilities, and this is one of our unique features. Serene Suites Hotel is registered with the Uganda Hotel Owners Association and we are recommended by the Uganda Tourism Board as having some of the best facilities. We boast a variety of rooms, standard and deluxe, ministerial and presidential suites with a once in a lifetime view of the capital city of Kampala. n
BY LORAN SSENABULYA
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Accomodation offer Any one visiting Kampala will get a 10% discount. Please use the code SERENITY-V Contact Hotel: Tel +25675033564
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SÃO TOMÉ:
A HIDDEN GEM L
OCATED just off the west coast of Africa is Sao Tome and Prinicipe. A haven of beauty and pleasure many have never heard of the place, until now. There are few hidden gems left, lets face it. The world is a much exposed, super transparent place these days. Everyone has a bucket list and on it you will probably find the same old, same old. Sao Tome offers the discerning traveller the opportunity to get one up on your peers and educate yourself a little in the process. A Portuguese-speaking island nation situated in the Gulf of Guinea, off the western equatorial coast of Africa, Sao Tome is the biggest of the twin-set volcanic islands. A wonderful fusion of striking rock and coral formations, rainforests and beaches there really is something for everyone in this idyllic part of the world. Named after Saint Thomas by the Portuguese explorers that arrived on the island on the saint’s feast day, Sao Tome became one of the first African countries to adopt democratic reforms and changes to its constitution. Whether you are a rock climber and keen to visit the Pico Cao Grande (a towering needleshaped volcanic peak) or you prefer the quiet life and 50
MIDDLE ORDER: Take a trip to the equator
want to chill out on Rolas Island, home to the biggest swimming pool in the country, there’s something for you. If you get ants in your pants and like to roam more than you like to sit, there are colonial excursions to Monte Café (old coffee plantation) to enjoy. Check out the Casa Almada Negreiros or visit Bombaim farm settlement, the unique waterfalls or botanical gardens in Obo Natural Park. Still very much a raw, unspoilt country as far as tourism is concerned the real question is: would I go back? The answer is: most definitely.
FLIGHT: Flying with TAP Portugal Airways from Heathrow to Portugal, change onto a connecting flight to Accra, Ghana, where the plane lands and then it’s one and a half hours to Sao Tome. It might sound like a bit of a pain but it’s all worth it in the end. Trust me. WHERE TO STAY: PESTANA GROUP Pestana offer some superb options in picturesque spots on the island. My stay encompassed a walk to the Equator, diving, swimming and much more. The five-star hotel chain has hotels located on the seafront or in town. Panoramic sea views are located only one km from the centre of São Tomé and one minute from the beach. Located on Ana Chaves Bay between embassies and universities, palaces and assemblies, it
is the ideal place for a tropical holiday. With two bars and a black bottomed pool, Omali set in tropical gardens opposite Lagarto Beach, is an upscale hotel with a laid-back vibe and 20 minutes from both the São Sebastião Museum and São Tomé International Airport. The food is beautiful with the chef keen to ensure that local produce is sourced and used throughout the menu. CLUB SANTANA For me, with their 7am bamboo stick stretching classes and daily 8:30am power walk to the volcano black sand beach; this is the best hotel on the island. Fantastic customer service, beautiful views, wonderful chalets and an infinity pool to die for. Club Santana Resort is beautifully positioned in front of the beach, with unique panoramic views over the ocean and Santana islet. This four star luxury resort is situated in Santana village, about 15km out of Sao Tomé town. It offers tranquillity and privacy in a quiet environment hidden away on a rock cliff, tropical gardens and private beach. You will not be disappointed with a stay at this hotel whether it’s short or long term. Highly recommended. WHAT TO DO: You must check out the Blue Lagoon in the Lobata District. The bluest of blues, the secluded spot surrounded by baobab trees and fossilised corals is perfect for a romantic picnic, barbecue or simply to brush
up on your diving skills. It’s also down the road from Turtle protection and conservation park in the Moro Peixe village located by yet another picture perfect beach. In the southern region, if staying at an Eco-Lodge is more your style, you will find the Praia Inhame right up your street based right on top of a beach, where Turtles lay their eggs. In town, discover the local São Tomé artisan market and immerse yourself in the sounds, aromas and tastes of the stalls that offer everything from food to clothing. All this while enjoying the sweet wafting smell of aromatic herbs that make delicious infusions. Also visit the Monte Café, after the city of Trindade, where you can visit cacao and coffee plantations. In the South of Sao Tome you have the Boca de Inferno a great vantage point from which to see the beautiful Atlantic ocean. If you’re brave enough cross the line of water at the big hole in the volcanic rocks. Explore close to the Angolares community said to be descendants of runaway slaves from Angola. THAT’S UNUSUAL: There are no ATM machines in Sao Tome. Withdrawing money is a myth. I would advise everyone going there to have as much cash as they think they will need. Some hotels do change your money but they won’t change more than one hundred Euros per day, funds permitting. BY JOEL CAMPBELL
‘SAO TOME AND PRINICIPE, A HAVEN OF BEAUTY AND PLEASURE’ 51
ROD’S DIARY
R
OD Leon is a renowned freelance photographer with a career that spans over three decades. In recent years he has focused on the fashion industry covering London Fashion Week, Pure London, Fashion Scout London, The Clothes Show, Milan Fashion Week, Indian Fashion Week, African Fashion Week, The National Wedding Show, London Bridal Week/The White Gallery and the Asian Wedding Show. Rod’s second passion is travel and we are delighted that he has shared some of his favourite images from Thailand and Jamaica with The Voice Traveller.
His work can we viewed on: Instagram @rod_allimages
(Clockwise) Village shop – ‘closed today’ Local fisherman with catch of the day The much loved banana – a plant in full fruit Young resident of Westmoreland Jamaica
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All smiles, Rod Leon posing with police officers in Bangkok
Wat Yai Chai Mongkol Ayutthaya, Temple and Ruins
Shoe cobbler in Bangkok
Carpet traders in Wat Yai Chai Mongkol
The Queen Sirikit Botanic Garden Chiang Mai Thailand - one of the most renowned gardens in Thailand where beautiful orchids and palms can be seen - A photograher’s dream.
Chiang Mai tuk tuk – this valuable mode of transport and as a Tourist travelling around in one it was a unique experience indeed Chiang Mai – The Khantoke Dinner Show is an excellent dining experience with authentic Thai music and dance
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GAMBIA A history to remember.
INFORMATION
GAMBIA REGGAE WEEKENDER TICKETS Friday 23 - Thursday 29 November 2018 The Hamlet Medina Salam Gunjur Gambia in Gunjur Visit: www.skiddle.com
I
PHOTOS CREDIT: Trevor Raymond
F you are heading to Gambia in November for this years Reggae Weekender The Voice Traveller recommends you mix the music with some culture. Situated on Kunta Kinteh Island is the opportunity to tread the path of some of history’s most famous footsteps. Formerly called James Island, Kunta Kinteh Island is in The Gambia River, 30 km from the river mouth and near Juffureh. Steeped in a controversial history the region was once a major waypoint of the Transatlantic slave trade. Guides on the island will take tourists around Fort Bullen, constructed by British soldiers and they will also get to learn about famous rebel Kunta Kinteh, who had his foot chopped off when he dared to resist the slavers. If that gets a bit too deep for you, get back to the music where the Roots festival commemorates the enforced enslavement and transportation of millions of Africans to the Americas and the Caribbean Islands.
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Holiday accommodation
GET TO GOA
Avoid the Monsoon season but other than that go to Goa today!
G
OA is a great destination for an exotic beach holiday, with tonnes of personality that gives great value for money. This beautiful state in western India has something to offer everyone, from beach parties to festivals, yoga retreats to familyfriendly beach and cultural experiences – not to mention kind and friendly people. If you like the convenience of having the option of big hotels, spas and a large variety of restaurants and bars nearby, Candolim and Calangute will tickle your fancy. It’s a lively area that provides everything from shops to dental practices, as well as plenty of opportunities to tailor your own new clothes or visit one of the many beach shacks. No trip to Goa is complete without a visit to one of its flea markets. These are the places where you can showcase your talents for haggling for all the enthusiasts out there! Everything is on sale, from food to spices, handicrafts, bags, scarfs, and so much more. Children can pick up a variety of trinkets, including some lovely bangles and a fan made of peacock feathers. Some of the most popular markets are Anjuna Market, which is held on Wednesdays, and the Baga beach market held on Saturdays, but The Saturday Night Bazaar in Arpora is a popular favourite. Goan cuisine is world-renowned – and very tasty. Some of the must-try dishes include their fish curry which is to die for - but every menu has a large variety to suit everyone’s taste buds. There are also many health-food spots and vegetarian
restaurants which allow you to try a wide array of delicious local vegetables, dahl (lentil stew) and chapatis. If you fancy some upmarket East Asian food Republic of Noodles in Candolim is superb with stunning decor. A visit to the fifth largest waterfall in India, the Dudhsagar is a lovely day trip. Also, a trip to the Spice Plantation is highly recommended – it is family- friendly, and you learn all about your favourite spices. One of the tours ends with a delicious Indian buffet and an optional visit to the nearby elephant sanctuary, where you can bathe an elephant. Basilica of Bom Jesus is a UNESCO world heritage site in the old town of the capital, Panjim and is well worth visiting. Goa is also famous for its stunning exotic beaches, with the most beautiful secluded beach being Agonda. It’s peaceful and has a few nice shops and restaurants, and the Simrose Restaurant is my favourite for sunset dining. Spend a few days in Dunhill Beach Resort in a lovely little beach cabana – it’s new and clean with great reviews, and doesn’t break the bank. Also, make sure you go on a little boat trip to see the dolphins in the lagoon. For the ultimate destination hotel, fall in love with The Leela Goa in Cavelossim. This is India’s only beach and riverside luxury resort, and although it’s pricey, it’s worth every penny, with fantastic facilities, world-class restaurants and an immaculate private beach. November to February are considered the best times to visit Goa, with monsoon season lasting from June to September.n
‘FOR THE ULTIMATE DESTINATION HOTEL, FALL IN LOVE WITH THE LEELA GOA’
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MAGIC OF MALAYSIA
Captivating coastline, the finest hotels in the world and a history only few people delve into... a travel diary By RACHEL RITFELD
K
UALA Lumpur is more than a capital city. This metropolis is a cultural melting pot where the diverse nations and cultures of Southeast Asia come together, and sophisticated skyscrapers and street food stalls harmoniously coexist. This charm is part of what attracted my daughter Rosalia and I to Malaysia for our magical adventure. DAY 1: JETLAGGED! We missed breakfast due to jetlag but staying in a great location makes finding amazing restaurants easy. Rosalia still talks about “the best waffles in the world” she had at Gravy Baby! Aquaria KLCC, located underneath the Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre which has many interactive exhibits – and all in English. Just outside the aquarium, the 50 acre KLCC Park, has expansive adventure playgrounds with clean public children’s swimming pools. I recommend spending the day there and finishing off with the Lake Symphony water fountain show. The famous Petronas Twin Towers overlook the park, making it the perfect opportunity to visit the top and cross the bridge between the towers for those unparalleled views. Unfortunately, booking those tickets 56
in advance is imperative, so we missed out! DAY 2: CAVE DISCOVERY I highly recommend the climb to the Batu Caves. This popular Hindu shrine is set in 400-year-old limestone caves, giving this temple a unique fauna. Signs at the entrance picturing the inhabiting snakes and bats didn’t help me to persuade Rosalia to enter the optional Dark Cave, but I begged and we went. We didn’t see much wildlife but the noises and the natural history lessons made it worthwile. Afterwards, we deserved a plunge in the hotel pool before our shopping spree. There are at least six humongous malls located within five minutes from the hotel. DAY 3: BARGAIN HUNTING IN A BUSY MARKET Firstly, getting around is super easy. Uber is so cheap in Kuala Lumpur, taxi journeys are between £1 and £5 per ride. The underground is brand new, fully airconditioned and literally costs pennies to use. We used the latter to get to Pasar Seni or central market. The souvenirs are so pretty and many of the stalls have an intriguing personality of their own.
Chinatown wasn’t as impressive but it was literally around the corner from Pasar Seni so worth passing by. For dinner we went to Songket Restaurant, which serves delicious authentic Malaysian cuisine and has a traditional dancing show. The sea bass was exquisite and our obsession with watermelon juice was catered to.
HOTSEAT: Mum and daughter
‘HAVE DINNER AT FERRINGHI GARDEN, IT’S STUNNING’
HIGH FLYING: Attractions aplenty
DAY 4: A VISIT TO PENANG Air Asia has easy and affordable internal flights in Malaysia, but we went by executive coach upon recommendation. These coaches, costing less than £50 return each, are comparable to business class seats, complete with fully-reclining armchairs and personal TVs. The journey took around five hours but was comfortable and we loved the scenery. Why Penang? The east coast of Malaysia is in monsoon season during mid-October and March so we focused on the west. After seeing the Shangri-La Rasa Sayang Resort and Spa in Penang, I was sold. This expansive, luxury beach side resort is set on the popular Batu Feringgi Beach. Their signature spa, CHI, offers treatments centred around ancient Chinese and Himalayan traditions and rituals, to be enjoyed in the sanctuary of your private spa villa. While I did that, Rosalina had a blast in the kids’ club and on-site water park Splash Zone. It was wonderful. After a couple of relaxing days in the hotel, we were ready to explore again. DAY 6: UP THE COAST Boasting views of pristine white beaches while indulging on delicious Thai food, the Tree Monkey Restaurant by the Tropical Spice Garden is a great place to stop on this coastal stretch between Penang National Park and the popular Batu Ferringhi Beach. After lunch we went to the amazing Entopia Butterfly
QUIRKY: Lots to shop for
Park before grabbing a roasted corn on the cob from a food stall on the route home. Following TripAdvisor’s advice, we had dinner at the Ferringhi Garden. It was so stunning and delicious that we went two nights in a row. DAY 7: A PRIVATE BOAT TRIP I spent £5 on an Uber to Penang National Park where I paid £35 for a private boat and boatsman to take me to Monkey beach and the turtle sanctuary on the remote Pantai Kerachut beach. When I called up to book this boat trip they quoted me £400, so make sure you haggle! DAY 8: HISTORIC GEORGE TOWN George Town in Penang has such incredible architecture and history that UNESCO listed it as a world heritage site. Within a one mile radius you can
visit: n Chew Jetty, a settlement of wooden houses built on stilts originally for Chinese settlers. n The Little India, which has tons of character and delicious vegetarian food. n The Thai Buddhist temple and the Burmese Buddhist temple are opposite each other and truly spectacular. We couldn’t resist getting a blessing from the monks. DAY 9: A FAREWELL FEAST We travelled back to Kuala Lumpur to prepare for a wonderful dinner at Manja Bar and Restaurant. Their menu looked so incredible that we just ordered everything and every dish was delicious. After that, our amazing adventure came to an end. We enjoyed every moment and most of all the quality time we shared. n
NEED TO KNOW FLY: KLM had surprisingly low airfares for that notoriously expensive time of year and the quick one-hour transit in Amsterdam sealed the deal. SLEEP IN STYLE: The top rated five star Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur is the place to stay for location, luxury and service. For less than £120 per night we stayed in a Horizon club room with fabulous views and access to the club lounge serving free afternoon tea and refreshments. 57
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PHOTO CREDIT: Norman Allen
Designer - Trefle Headscarf - Virginia Tigerlily Print Wrap Skirt - Renee Tigerlily Print Model - Khoudia Diop
Photo by Nathan Patrick
Maceeo polo shirt available at www.kerrymwh.com
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BEACH READY
What you wear to the beach says a lot about you so make sure you scrub up well. By CHANTELLE KIMBERLEY
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S spring and summer approach, thoughts of travelling come to mind. Whether you’ll be jet-setting to sunnier climates or enjoying the British summer, when the sun comes out everyone wants to look and feel their best. It’s nearly that time of year where we come out of hibernation and search for the perfect bikini and beach accessories. In some cases, the thought of having to strip down to your swimwear can be daunting. Lucky for you, we’ve got you covered with our pick of key pieces that won’t leave you self-conscience but will guarantee you’ll be looking your best this summer. THE EVER-FAITHFUL ONE PIECE If you’re not quite bikini ready or confident enough to wear skimpy pieces, I’m pleased to tell you that the one-piece is back in fashion. The swimming costume, which was once associated with sport, now comes in a variety of styles so you can feel just as sexy as if you were in a bikini but less exposed so you simply can’t go wrong. These days you can get them with extra secret support so lumps and bumps are kept at bay, so whether you’re a mature lady or in your teens, this style will work for all. HIGH-WAISTED DREAMS If you want the best of both worlds, the fabulous high waisted bikini could be your new best friend. It has the sex appeal of a bikini but the safety of a one piece and still allows you to flash the flesh. They come in a variety of styles so depending on whether or not you want to be fully covered or partly, there’s likely to be an option for you.
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TEENY BIKINI If you’re a confident person, I’m guessing your only problem would be deciding which style of bikini to choose. Triangle, underwired, boob tube, halterneck, the list is endless. Depending on your body shape, as we know girls all develop at different ages, it is important to pick one that you’re comfortable in. TRUNKS You’d think it would be easy for guys when it comes to choosing swimwear – throw on a pair of trunks and they’re sorted, right? Unfortunately, it’s not that simple, especially as men are making fashion statements and care about their appearance more than ever. Variety is key. KIDS’ PLAY Swimwear for kids is always fun but the difficulty sometimes can be finding protective pieces to keep the sun’s harmful rays at bay. Sun hats and long sleeves are available to keep kids safe while they enjoy the sun. COVER UPS Cover-ups have become a staple piece in summer fashion and aren’t looking to disappear anytime soon. From simple throw overs to detailed designs, you really will be winning this summer. Perfect to cover up while relaxing on holiday and great to take away the anxiety of any body hangups. Throw one of these on and you’re good to go. n n Instagram: @chantelle_kimberley n Twitter: @chantelle_k1m
‘Cover-ups have become a staple piece in summer fashion’
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Italy’s Leaning Tower of Pisa at the cathedral of the Italian city of Pisa, is known worldwide for its unintended tilt. The tower’s tilt began during construction in the 12th century, caused by an inadequate foundation.
You are a phone call and email from your ideal getaway. Let’s turn travel ideas into a plan of action and create wonderful experiences with memories to last a lifetime.
Contact: Chantelle Louise Welsh Independent Travel Specialist Founder of Travel Locations Ltd a part of Brilliant Travel & The Barrhead Travel Group. T: 0203 853 6454 M: 07803 473 595 W: www.travellocationsworldwide.com 63
YOUR ULTIMATE BUCKET LIST
We run down the destinations that should make every travellers’ bucket list. By LEAH SINCLAIR
MESMERISING: Maldives
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PEEKA-BOO: We see Machu Picchu
COLD TRUTH: South Pole
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NOWY landscapes, exotic beaches, the world is full of diverse destinations that are waiting to be explored. With so many options, it can be difficult to pinpoint the countries that should make your bucket list. Here, we do the work for you, breaking down the ideal luxury holidays and city escapes that every explorer should conquer.
BEACH
The Maldives: Experience the crystalline waters, impeccable white sand beaches and year-round amazing weather that The Maldives has to offer. Beyond being picture perfect, The Maldives provides some rare opportunities, from witnessing Maldives’ Big Five, which consists of manta rays, sea turtles, dolphins, eagle rays and sharks during a snorkelling experience, to dining underwater at The Ithaa Restaurant at Conrad Hilton Rangali Island resort.
‘The ideal luxury holidays and city escapes that every explorer should conquer’ 65
‘Bali is a luxury paradise well worth the cost’
BALI”: Witness the beauty first hand
Bali: Culture? Check. Beaches? Check. Lush landscapes? Double check. Bali has it all and the Indonesian island is the ultimate all-round experience. Offering some of the best beaches in the world, accompanied by ancient temples, volcanic mountains and a plethora of five star resorts, Bali is a luxury paradise and well worth the cost.
EXPLORE
South Pole: Antarctica guarantees to inspire and astound like no other place you’ve ever visited. It’s one of the coldest and most remote regions in the world, but offers sublime landscapes, incredible wildlife and opportunities, including a polar expedition cruise which
offer the opportunity to watch land and sea animals in their natural habitats. Reykjavik, Iceland: This gorgeous Scandinavian country offers phenomenal views of glorious glaciers, icebergs, and waterfalls. It’s a destination that promises unparalleled experiences with nature. Whether it’s the other-worldly Blue Lagoon or the breathtaking Northern Lights, travellers can expect many highlights to their Icelandic adventure that are like no other. Machu Picchu, Peru: The Peruvian UNESCO world heritage site is without a doubt a sight to behold. Located in the Andes Mountains, the lost city was built by the Inca civilisation in the 15th century, and features 12 acres of temples and gardens for travelers to explore - all perched 7,973ft above sea level. Embrace the mix of Incan and Spanish cultures as you hike your way across the archaic city.
CITY LIFE
New Orleans, Louisiana: Music, good food, and Mardi Gras are all home to the city of New Orleans, one of America’s most vibrant locations. There’s lots to do in the Big Easy, from attending one of their annual Jazz festivals and eating their world-famous beignets at Cafe du Monde, to strolling through The French Quarter filled with boutiques, bars and antique shops that are sure to catch your eye. Tokyo, Japan: Tokyo (right) is a cool city, a hotspot for travellers around the world. Whether you’re visiting The city’s oldest temple, the Sensoji temple, or dining with robots at the high-tech Robot Restaurant, you’ll never be short of wonderful and wacky things to do.n
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Over the past 35 years The Voice has reigned as Britain’s award-winning newspaper that informs, inspires and engages with people of African, Caribbean and mixed heritage.
It offers a rich mixture of news, entertainment, sports, life and style, special features and publications.
Since 1982 we have: n Championed excellence n Campaigned on issues that impact lives n Represented diverse perspectives n Influenced change to enhance society
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