2-22 SIX09 by Community News Service

SIX09 ARTS > FOOD > CULTURE

thesix09.com | FEBRUARY 2022

Let’s Get Cozy

Valentine’s Day activities to warm hearts and souls. Page 2. The best cheesesteaks? They might be in New Jersey. Introducing Donkey’s, page 7.

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from the cover Seasons of love By RebeKaH SCHrOeDer

Learn the love languages of New Jersey with this guide to food, events, retail opportunities, and romantic giveaways throughout the state. From decadent chocolate-covered strawberries to a perfect wintery scenery, there are options for anyone looking to celebrate Valentine’s Day, whether doing so with partners, friends, or family.

Food

Serving up French fine dining at the Grounds For Sculpture, Rat’s Restaurant’s romantic experience for this Valentine’s Day is an à la carte menu with featured wine and dinner specials. Guests at Rat’s Restaurant can dine on options for the holiday such as duck confit en croûte, oysters rockefeller refaire, squid ink crab pasta, a 16-ounce veal porterhouse, and for dessert, a sacher torte. Because Valentine’s Day is on a Monday this year when Rat’s is usually closed, the restaurant will be open solely for dinner on Feb. 14. Sasha Peatman is not only an assistant general manager at Rat’s Restaurant, but a master sommelier. Subject to the day, she will be curating featured wine pairings to accompany the specials. “I wanted to open some really nice bottles that you normally wouldn’t be able to have by the glass, just for this

special weekend,” she said. “We have eight outside tables that are covered by a glass awning and have heat lamps installed in the ceiling, so we actually still are offering outdoor dining to guests that are not comfortable with sitting inside,” Peatman said. “It is obviously still a little bit chilly out there, but you’re very well-protected, and all of those outside tables are around our pond and have a view of the Monet’s Bridge, so the ambience out there is still very lovely.” Rat’s Restaurant, 16 Fairgrounds Road, Hamilton. Saturday through Monday, February 12 through 14, 4 to 9 p.m. www.ratsrestaurant.com. COVID-19 Protocols: Employees wear masks, customers are not required to wear face masks if fully vaccinated, and outdoor seating is available. *** Hopewell Valley Vineyards is hosting a private, ticket-only event with midday meal favorites like imported and local cheeses, wine, brick oven breakfast pizzas, roasted potatoes, meats, and other enticing fare. “Our brunch menu is very extensive,” said Violetta Neri, who owns the vineyard alongside husband Sergio Neri, the winemaker and chef. “It’s really amazingly customized to us. Our chef and winemaker being ItalSee VALENTINES, Page 4

SIX09

EDITOR Jamie Griswold ARTS EDITOR Dan Aubrey FOOD & DINING COLUMNIST Joe Emanski AD LAYOUT & PRODUCTION Stacey Micallef SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jennifer Steﬀen (Ext. 113)

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VALENTINES, continued from Page 2

ian, he makes ricotta pancakes and a berry sauce for [them] from scratch.” The brunch also comes with mimosas and bellinis using a prosecco-style wine. Violetta Neri says that in the past, this menu for private events has been very well-received. Personally, she recommends their thin-crust nutella pizza that “comes [out] piping hot out of the oven” with the chocolate-hazelnut spread and powdered white sugar. Violetta Neri is also hoping to have their chocolate port wine ready by the day of the event. In a similarly sweet fashion, Hopewell Valley Vineyards will be selling chocolate-covered wine

bottles as gifts in white, red and rosé flavors. Hopewell Valley Vineyards, 46 Yard Road, Pennington. Sunday, Feburary 13, 11 a.m. $32.00 each plus gratuity ($38.40) and tax. Reserve by February 9 at 609-737-4465 or www.hopewellvalleyvineyards.com. COVID-19 Protocols: Hopewell Valley Vineyards follows state mandates that are subject to change. Anyone is permitted to wear masks according to their comfort level. *** With elevated American cuisine and a seasonal flair, The Meeting House will have an à la carte menu, as well as featured specials, available for Valentine’s Day. The Meeting

House would typically be closed on Mondays, but due to the holiday, the restaurant will be open exclusively for dinner. Owner Amar Gautam said that guests can now make their reservations online. The Meeting House, 277 Witherspoon Street, Princeton. Monday, February 14, 4:30 to 9 p.m. www.meetinghouseprinceton.com. COVID-19 Protocols: The Meeting House follows local Princeton mandates that are subject to change. *** K’s Events and Decorations specializes in packages that combine food and flair for customers at home. Customizable for a private date night between two, multiple couples com-

From left: The Pavilion at Rat’s set for a past Valentine’s Day; heart-shaped pizza from Brother’s; and a fruit and chocolate bouquet from Carella’s.

ing together, or a celebration with friends, Antonia James, the owner, brings along a picnic setting and a three-course dinner provided by Under the Moon Cafe Catering. “It’s not limited to one couple,” James said. “You get a discount if you add more couples to the ticket…[or you could] grab a couple of girlfriends and do it as a Galentine’s night.” Supplying pillows, benches, candles, centerpieces, and “the whole nine yards,” James ensures that pairs

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or groups can have enjoyable, elevated meals even from the comfort of their own homes. If there is not enough space available for the picnic setup, James and her team can adapt to place the spread on a dining room table. The options for the dinner consist of salmon, short ribs, or a vegetarian choice, as well as dessert. Now inside of a new location at Dragonfly Farms, K’s Events and Decorations also has balloon and floral arrangements available for additional purchase. K’s Events and Decorations, 966 Kuser Road, Hamilton (inside Dragonfly Farms). Open Tuesday to Friday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. $300 for two people; $100 for each additional person. www. kseventdecorations.com. COVID-19 Protocols: Mask, gloves, and sanitizer required for staff. Customers are not required to wear masks. *** For the romantic who is truly cheesy at heart, Brother’s Pizza will be selling heart-shaped pizzas all the way through Valentine’s Day for an estimated price of $18.95, plus toppings. Pre-ordering is recommended and can be done either online or over the phone. Brother’s Pizza, 871 Route 33, Hamilton. Valentine’s Day hours: 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Regular hours: Open 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday. 609-586-2707 or www.brothers

pizza33.com. COVID-19 Protocols: Employees are encouraged to wear masks according to their comfort level or if not vaccinated, customers not required to wear masks.

Events

Last Christmas might be a figment of the past, but sleigh rides and the like are still in season at the Mercer County Park Commission’s Howell Living Histor y Farm, giving couples and families multiple ways to cruise around “the farm’s wintery landscape.” Couples can choose a two-seater sleigh or a horse-drawn carriage, while families can ride a

bobsled or a hay wagon. “Imagine it’s February of 1890, and you look out the window to see your Valentine pull up the driveway in a sleigh pulled by two horses,” administrator Kevin Watson said of either the “one-of-a-kind date” or the “family fun” options. Watson, who recommends arriving early, said that the rides run from 10:30 to to 3 and are first come, first served. Children are encouraged to make Valentine’s Day cards as part of a crafting program from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. “for a small materials fee.” Soup will be available at the farmhouse, warmed by the stovetop on a chilly February day.

Howell Farm’s Kevin Watson enjoys a sleigh ride with his fiancee, left, and Emery Frick and Tom Donnelly of Piscataway show their handmade Victorian valentines at Morven.

Howell Living History Farm, 70 Woodens Lane, Lambertville. OldFashioned Valentine’s Day, Saturday, Febraury 12, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. www. howellfarm.org. COVID-19 Protocols: Masks required to be carried by customers and worn when unable to social distance from others. *** See VALENTINES, Page 6

February 2022 | SIX095

VALENTINES, continued from Page 5

Using pressed flowers from Morven Museum & Garden’s gardens, attendees can make Victorian-style Valentines with Morven’s curator of education and public programs, Debi Lampert-Rudman. Before the workshop, there will be a visit to the museum included. Materials and instructions will be provided. No previous experience is required, and spaces are limited. Ticket price also includes “take home” refreshments and admission. “Morven is the home of one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence, Richard Stockton, and his wife, Annis Boudinot Stockton, one of the first female published poets in America,” Lampert-Rudman said. Years later, it became New Jersey’s first Governor’s Mansion. During the Victorian Era, LampertRudman continues, a lush greenhouse was a sign of affluence. The flowers are not blooming at this time of year, but the Victorian Valentine’s program is “an homage” to the gardens of that era. “It’s been a very successful [event] for several years and our last in-person pressed flower workshop was just this past November,” Lampert-Rudman said. Morven Museum & Garden, 55 Stockton Street, Princeton. Victorian Pressed Flower Valentine Workshop, Saturday, February 5, 11 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. $45 per general admission ticket ($35 for members). www.morven.org. COVID-19 Protocols: Masks required, vaccinations preferable. Attendees will be seated in the same groups or ‘pods’ as those they registered with or individually, all socially distanced at least six feet from other tables in a large room. *** Harkening back to an era of The Great Gatsby and jazz music, Bordentown Walking Tours and the Downtown Bordentown Association are co-sponsoring a historic journey across town with an insightful look at Bordentown’s speakeasies. “Building on the success of our Revolutionary Pub Crawl over Independence Day weekend last summer, we are again looking forward

6SIX09 | February 2022

to a fun, informative and entertaining pub crawl featuring four great establishments in beautiful, historic, and walkable downtown Bordentown City,” said Mark Neurohr-Pierpaoli, the founder of Bordentown Walking Tours. The tour also includes “a bite to eat” at every stop over the course of four hours. While the tour guides telling stories of Prohibition and the Roaring 20s in Bordentown will be in costume, guests are also “encouraged” to wear their best gangster or flapper attire. Patrons must be 21 or older with proof of ID. Roaring 20s Pub Crawl, Old Town Pub, 135 Farnsworth Avenue, Bordentown. Saturday, February 12, noon to 4 p.m. $75 per ticket (includes four drink tickets and food). Guests (21+ only) can reserve their tickets online. www.oldtown.pub. COVID-19 Protocols: The event will follow all current guidelines. Indoor requirements vary by establishment. Neurohr-Pierpaoli said that when together outdoors as a group, masks and social distancing are encouraged, but not required.

Retail

Boasting “the widest selection of chocolates in Mercer County,” Carella’s Chocolates and Gifts, a womanrun, family-owned chocolatier offers trays of assorted chocolates in flavors that customers can pick and choose from to fill out their boxes. Carella’s also has chocolate-covered strawberries, fruit bouquets with Valentine’s Day designs, and chocolate-covered wine bottles. Owner Connie Dalton said that customers can bring in any wine, spirits, or soda for the process. Carella’s then puts a food safe bag around the plastic or glass to ensure that the chocolate never touches the bottle. “We dip it in our kettle, and it’s real high quality chocolate,” she continued. “We usually do dark chocolate, because that’s the best paired with wine.” The dipped bottles sell for $28, the same price as the chocolate-covered strawberries. The bouquets range in price depending on the order, which can include both their signature chocolates, chocolate-covered fruits and

an assortment of fresh fruits. Carella’s Chocolates & Gifts, 2503 Nottingham Way, Hamilton. Open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday-Wednesday, Saturday; 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. ThursdayFriday; and 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday. www.carellaschocolates.com. COVID-19 Protocols: Masks appreciated, staff vaccinated and boosted. *** For those with an insatiable sweet tooth, David Bradley Chocolatier is selling heart cocoa bombs, as well as heart smash boxes, for Valentine’s Day. The boxes come in two dimensions, a large size and a ‘cupcake’ size for younger choc-a-holics. Along with the purchase, customers are given a wooden mallet to break the surface. “Inside, there’s a couple pretzels, nonpareils, and little beads that come tumbling out when you smash it with that hammer,” Chris Hicks, David Bradley Chocolatier’s owner, said. “Of course, no matter what I do, you can’t get away from the chocolate-covered fruit,” she continued. “Strawberries are still the number one seller.” David Bradley Chocolatier, 92 North Main Street, Windsor. Open 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Friday and Saturday. www.dbchocolate.com. COVID-19 Protocols: Employees wear masks, customers are not required to wear face masks. Sanitizer available and plastic shields up in the store. Samples are currently being handed out by employees instead of having customers reach in themselves. To ensure safety, David Bradley also has a paging system in place if the store becomes too crowded so that customers can wait in their cars until buzzed to come inside.

Romantic Getaways

For a breath of fresh air, guests at Hotel LBI can “escape” to a suite — one that has both discounted rates for staying longer and a full kitchen. “Hotel LBI is open year-round and is a perfect place to escape for that much-needed staycation,” said Liz Santoro, area director of sales for Hotel LBI. “[It’s] a short drive and centrally located between NYC, Philly and AC. It is the perfect place

Accommodations at Hotel LBI in Ship Bottom, left, and the Colonial Inn in Historic Smithville.

to unwind.” To kick off their relaxation, Santoro added that guests can choose from relaxing at the indoor pool and hot tub, sipping a cocktail by the fire, and experiencing fine dining, all in close proximity to Long Beach Island. Winter Escape is applicable to new reservations only and cannot be combined with any other offers. Hotel LBI, 350 West 8th Street, Ship Bottom. 20 percent off winter rates when you stay two nights or more (Offer Code: WINTER) through March 31. www.hotellbi.com. COVID-19 Protocols: Masks recommended, areas of high contact and public spaces sanitized frequently. *** Historic Smithville is known as a shopping village priding itself on oldfashioned charms, and The Colonial Inn is no different. As part of two current promotions, guests can stay two nights and get another for half price from Sunday to Thursday. If guests want to stay longer, the Four Seasons Weekday Getaway lets them pay for three nights and receive the third at 50 percent off the weekday price. Likewise, they can pay for four nights and receive the fourth night completely free from Sunday to Thursday. Weekday deals must be requested upon making a reservation, with advance reservations encouraged. “All the 60+ shops are open, all the restaurants are open in the village, so it’s still a great time to come,” said Taylor Walsh, The Colonial Inn’s marketing manager. Walsh said that The Colonial Inn’s Valentine’s Day packages can include indulgences such as roses and champagne, strawberries and wine, and cheese from Magnifico’s Say Cheese. The Colonial Inn Bed & Breakfast in Historic Smithville, 615 East Moss Mill Road, Smithville. www.colonialinnsmithville.com. COVID-19 Protocols: Masks not required when checking in, no-contact check-in available, rooms cleaned frequently.

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A new cheesesteak joint gives something to chew on By Dan Aubrey

The ongoing regional argument about who makes the best cheese steak — in and out of Philadelphia — got a new twist in 2015. That’s when a world-famous food critic weighed in and delivered a decisive one-two shot into the guts of self-proclaimed Delaware Valley cheesesteak connoisseurs by giving a greasy thumbs up to a steak joint not only off the road less traveled but outside of Philadelphia. With that anointed cheesesteak maker just opening a new shop close enough to the U.S. 1 region, now is the time for area food adventurers to make a trip, get a quick bite out, and join the debate. The food critic was the late New Jersey-native and host of the popular cable television show “No Reservations,” Anthony Bourdain. The show featured former New York City celebrity chef globe-gobbling with no reservations about eating local delicacies — including concoctions stirred up with maggots, testicles, and animal eyes. The program attracted a large audience up to the host’s suicide in 2018. But in 2015 he and the show’s producers decided to put the focus on the southern New Jersey and Philadelphia area. Since Philadelphia and cheesesteaks are akin to the connection between London and fish and chips, it was clear that the show’s menu needed to include a highly visible test taste and that Bourdain would have to face the ensuing fire from legions of cheesesteak fans. But first, let’s put the delicacy in perspective. “A cheesesteak is a long, crusty roll filled with thinly sliced sauteed rib-eye beef and melted cheese,” posts Visit Philadelphia, the official city visitors’ port for regional info. Its writer — agreeing with numerous others (including this one) — readily says the cheese of choice is Cheez Whiz — a glowing, mild-tasting processed cheese sauce developed by Kraft foods in the 1950s. But American and provolone are acceptable substitutions. South Philadelphia hot dog vendor Pat Oliveri is credited with the creation in 1930. A Thomas Edison of caloric intake, Oliveri cooked up the idea of putting grilled beef on a hotdog roll and giving it to taxi driver client. The driver in turn had a mouthful to say about the concoction and drivers, and their clients soon headed to Oliveri’s corner — where he spiced up the menu by adding cheese. Oliveri and his co-partner brother eventually opened the shop on the

Donkey’s cheesesteak has been touted as a regional favorite, but it lacks the traditional presentation on a long, crusty roll.

corner of 9th Street and Passyunk Donkey’s Place on Haddon Street in Avenue, the site of the now well- Camden. Donkey is the late Leon Lucas. He known Philadelphia stop, Pat’s King of was a lightweight boxer who repreSteaks. In true Philadelphia fashion, a com- sented the U.S. in the 1928 Olympics. petitor opened Geno’s Steaks across His nickname is connected to a punch the street and ignited the long-stand- that was likened to a donkey’s kick. Lucas purchased the place in 1943, ing argument regarding the better gave it its lively name, and added cheesesteak. Although cheesesteaks have cheesesteaks with his own special become as plentiful as hot dogs or hot sauce to the menu. Eventually the reputation of Donpretzels in Philadelphia and around the region, the who-serves-the-best- key cheesesteaks gained steam, and in 1998 then-Philand-why arguadelphia mayor ment has only Ed Rendell got a intensified. Although taste of the CamNow cheesden competition esteak aficionacheesesteaks have and asked Donkey dos often argue become as plentiful to come to Philatheir preferdelphia. He didn’t ence for a paras hot dogs or bite. ticular vendor Donkey’s is a with the same hot pretzels in family operation. fervor used for After Leon, the bar sports teams Philadelphia and was run by Donand political parties — even to around the region, the key’s son, Robert Lee Lucas, and the point where who-serves-the-best- now by his son, Joe a server at a Lucas. noted Philadeland-why argument Robert had phia restaurant moved to Medford, advised ignoring has only intensified. where the family the cheesesteak opened a Donkey’s on the menu outpost several and heading to a small place several blocks away. She years ago. Now back to 2015’s game-changing also noted — rightfully — that Pat’s visit. and Geno’s were for tourists. A quick review of newspaper Bourdain’s entry into the cheese steak dispute was like tossing two reports show that Bourdain was out splashes of fresh grease on the an about in the area and even sighted in the Pinelands. already sizzling controversy. But, as we know, the show stopper The first was that he didn’t venture into Philadelphia — a place he was his stop at Donkey’s. And since dubbed the cheesesteak capital of the cheesesteaks are the only sandwich on the menu, it was clear why Bouruniverse. The second was that his sweet dain was there. As the Camden-area Courierhot spot was on a road less traveled:

Post newspaper reports, Bourdain “stopped by Donkey’s Place in Camden in late January for not one, but two of its special cheesesteaks, featuring candy caramelized onions and a poppy-seeded Kaiser roll.” But in the “Parts Unknown: New Jersey” broadcast segment, available for viewing on YouTube, one can watch the historic account unfold. Bourdain sits at the bar. Lucas places the sandwich before him. And Bourdain intones the following narrative: “It’s round. It’s got steak, spices, browned onions, and real American cheese — such as it is. And it is sublime.” Bourdain then tastes, gazes at the chef, and says, “Man, this should be a national landmark right away. This sandwich is unbelievably good.” One can only imagine the chefs at Pat’s, Geno’s, Jim’s (my go to place), and Tony Luke’s eating their hearts out — with wiz — as a Camden joint gets international attention for Philadelphia’s phenomenon. With Donkey’s Place opening its third location in Mt. Holly — about a 35-minute ride from Hoagie Haven in Princeton — I decided to do some taste testing for myself. As noted, I’m a fan of Jim’s Steaks on South Street in Philadelphia and use that as a standard. Here’s some quick taste-making background. According to former Philly Voice and current New York City-based food writer Allie Miller, Jim’s takes a spot with Pat’s and Geno’s as one of “big three” Philly cheesesteak places. But more importantly, as Miller reports, “Jim’s recipe is slightly different from the others. Their menu states that they use top round black Angus beef for their meat. Also, Jim’s tends to be more partial to Cheez Whiz over other dairy options.” It’s also served on soft submarine roll that absorbs the juices and flavor but maintains its body for easy lifting. And while it doesn’t have the street scene that Pat’s and Geno’s have, Jim’s has gotten Philadelphia Magazine’s nod for best cheesesteak in the city and the recipient of four Best in Philly awards. So with a tuned palate, I took a trip to Camden to get a taste of Donkey’s real deal before heading to its new digs in Mt. Holly. Donkey’s Haddon Avenue place is in the northern section of the city and is easy to access from the area where Routes 30, 130, and 38 meet. A few minutes’ ride up Kaighn Avenue and a left hand turn onto Haddon gets you there. There is parking on the street and See DONKEY’S, Page 8

February 2022 | SIX097

Top Ranked for Quality and Safety.

DONKEY’S, continued from Page 7

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in a lot for Donkey’s patrons. And while urban decay is nibbling at the area, people coming and going seem lively and upbeat. A quick few steps later I’m in the tavern and sucking up the scent and sound of onions sizzling, the lively banter of workers and patrons sitting at the modest sized bar, and the anticipation of the waiting customers gazing at the cooks over the grills behind the bar. My sense that the march of time had somehow missed Donkey’s was supported by the observations of a Philadelphia Inquirer writer who called it “a bit of Camden in amber” and “maybe a shrine” where the only major change “is that while it looks like a bar (circa 1943) and feels like a bar, it is really more a cheesesteakery these days, the Lucas family’s magnificent version of the sandwich having triumphed over the booze (especially since the place now closes at 6 p.m., though an adjoining take-out window cranks out the steaks until midnight).” The writer also then went onto the building’s pedigree: a Prohibitionera speakeasy serving Jewish clientele and later the watering hole for shipyard workers, RCA assemblers, Campbell Soup-makers, and hospital workers. Since my plan is to test taste the Camden and Mt. Holly sandwiches to see if there is any difference, I

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12/6/21 4:04 PM

Donkey’s original location in Camden has an old-timey vibe.

order, pay ($11 per steak), joined the wait line, and pass time by looking at the rack of Donkey’s Place T-shirts. There’s “A Meet Me Under the Mistletoe” printed over a donkey holding a sprig over its backside or “Fuck Long Rolls” (the bar’s declaration of independence from the expected long submarine roll). I also watch as Lucas prepares his magic with the standard recipe, described by the Inquirer reporter as “a block of thin-sliced ribeye folded on the grill, poked at with the corner of a spatula to loosen the texture — but never chopped. The hot, chopped red pepper relish is from K&Z, the Camden pickle maker. The rolls are, yes, round, their tops set on the sizzling steaks to breathe their steam and give them character. They are the same oversize poppy-seed kaisers, baked to Donkey’s specs by Del Buono’s Bakery in Haddon Heights, just as they have been since opening day. Finally, there are the sweet onions. They were delivered in a little red wagon years ago by a vendor who lived two blocks away. Now it is his son who delivers them. They are ordinary onions. But they become special on the grill, mounded up and around the steaks for close to an hour, sucking up the beefy juice, seasoned with secret seasoning (garlic? paprika?), furrowed and

The Donkey’s takeout window now open in Mt. Holly serves an equally good sandwich to its sister shop in Camden with a very different vibe.

Trenton. The place stays close to the basics and provides a comforting youget-what-you-expect sandwich.

YEARS

of chewy meat, American or Provolone cheese, sweet fried onions, and a roll from Italian Peoples Bakery in

YEARS

plowed until they are as tender and took it to another level. I immediately turned my attention caramelized as the onions in French to the Mt. Holly version and again onion soup.” After hearing my garbled name checked its appearance, scent, heft, and order called, I step forward and and taste and happily found that it was have one of the staff members give up to the standard of the original — me a friendly slap on my shoulder, a but with even sweeter onions. Since one sandwich was too much cheery good afternoon in my ear, and a bag with a noticeably weighty sand- to eat at one sitting, I had the opportunity to revisit the cheesesteaks over wich put into my hand. In a few minutes I am on my 20-mile the next day and was more impressed trek to Mt. Holly — with the scent of with each bite. However, as good as it was (and is), steak and onions filling the car. Since I had once lived in Mt. Holly, I was not convinced it was the best I didn’t think I would have trouble cheesesteak in the region — or even finding the 37 Washington Street a cheesesteak to begin with. That’s because the Donkey’s verDonkey’s shop, especially since it is one of the town’s major roads. But I sion goes against the basic form perfected on the streets of Philawas wrong. After driving around the block delphia — a recipe that calls for the and trying to make sense of the simple arrangement of steak, onions, GPS directions, I finally figure out and cheese on a basic long roll. It’s a that Donkey’s was in the parking lot simple formula that challenges cheesbehind the façade of Washington esteak chefs to excel and find their own special mojo to make the taste Street buildings. That is just one of the striking dif- buds sing. It’s even a point Bourdain alluded ferences between the Camden and Mt. Holly Donkey’s. Another is that to when he told a reporter he was while the old city place is marinated used to a cheesesteak served on a by decades of onion fumes and bar long roll. Donkey’s round talk, the new one is a roll version, on frill-free take-out only the other hand, is window-counter of With a tuned palate, I more like a roast the sort one finds on beef sandwich the boardwalk. The took a trip to Camden with a Philadelolder place is run by phia accent and an older gang that to get a taste of attitude. It’s a has eaten too much Donkey’s real deal thing in a league of of its own fare and its own. needs to see some before heading to its But why take sunlight, the other my word for it? by a team of slim and new digs in Mt. Holly. A short trip will perky young people. bring you into the And the Camden place has a community vibe, while the long rolling argument that continues new one is surrounded by empty cars. to feed our area’s fascination with The contrasts made me wonder if cheesesteaks. Donkey’s Place, 37 Washington the sandwich would be different too — and perhaps generate an argument Street, Mt. Holly. Open seven days a about which Donkey’s cheesesteak week. donkeysplacedownto.wixsite. com/mountholly. was the best and most authentic. However, those needing a quick After several minutes of waiting in the great outdoors, my order cheesesteak break can find several was ready and I was heading home great places in the region. Here’s just to taste test — and resisting the fra- a few: Meatheadz on Brunswick Pike in grance and the temptation to stop the Lawrenceville. In the former Stewcar and dig into the bag. When I got home, I headed directly art’s Root Beer stop, it made big to the kitchen, put the steaks on the food news in July, 2019, when it was table, got out a notebook, and dove in. rated No. 1 by an aficionado with 295 The first thing I noticed when I regional cheesesteaks under his belt. Pete’s Steak House. With its roots lifted the sandwich from the Camden bag was that the wax paper was moist in Chambersburg’s fabled Italian reswith juice. Then I unfolded the wrap- taurant culture, the tasty tradition per and, like Bourdain, was struck by endures on Whitehorse Avenue in the look of the sandwich — a substan- Hamilton. Gaetano’s on Route 33 in Hamiltial mound of steaming meat, onions, and cheese under an equally substan- ton is part of a chain that has a winning mixture of a hefty layer of thinly tial poppy-seed dome. After taking a deep whiff of the sliced meat, an equally hefty sesame sweet scent of onion and spices, I seed roll especially made for them by carefully lifted the sandwich, studied DeLuca’s Bakery in Riverside, sweet it, and found that while the roll was fried onions, and, although it comes moistened by onion and meat it was with American cheese, the opportuhard enough to keep the sandwich nity to request Cheez Whiz. While the “Where size matters” slogan may set together but invitingly soft. Then there was the bite and the the eyes rolling, it is more than hype: immediately realization of what all the The small sandwich is 12 inches long. And, finally, Hoagie Haven on fuss was about. Donkey’s met the best of what I had previously experienced, Nassau Street in Princeton keeps it but its spices, bread, and secret sauce simple with a respectable layering

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