GOOD.BETTER.BEST

Lucia Restaurant and The American Dream

Aserendipitous trip to Fargo in the early 70s took Maria and Geoff Wilson from their Canadian town of Winnipeg to what became their American dream.

While on an ordinary visit to Fargo with Maria’s parents, a “For Sale” sign on 13th Avenue caught father Archie’s eye. “This is it—this is where we’re going to open a Santa Lucia,” he exclaimed prompting Geoff to cautiously question, “What are you talking about?”

Though completely unplanned the idea was a welcome one for Maria who knew from a very young age she wanted to run her own restaurant. “As of kindergarten when my parents would say, ‘what do you want to do when you grow up?’ I would say ‘I want my own restaurant.’ I knew what I wanted to do,” said Maria. “I grew up helping out around our family-owned Santa Lucia at the age of 12, washing dishes, bussing tables and helping mom cook.”

Once the idea was in the air things moved fast. “Pack your bags,” said Maria’s father, “we’re going to make this happen!” Maria and Geoff trusted the process and one-by-one things began to fall into place. Young and filled with pride neither wanted to ask their parents for money. It was important for them to do this on their own.

With hard work, dedication and the longing to raise their family in the quaint town of Fargo, the Wilsons made the move. Over and over again Maria would explain to land owners, builders, and others, “We have no money, but you can check us out, we have a good name. We were born and raised in Winnipeg, I worked at the restaurant with my parents.” An offer was made and accepted on the land. A local builder took a chance on the young couple and made renovations on the building. A Moorhead car dealership brought them a Chevrolet Cavalier trusting they were good for their word.

They went on to rent an apartment, acquire $30,000 worth of culinary equipment, move through the immigration process and open the restaurant doors. The year was 1990.

Maria fondly remembers the early years. Though not easy, they truly show how far one can come with vision and a heart full of desire.

“I remember getting up one morning and the blow-up mattress we were sleeping on was flat as a pancake and I couldn’t even get up,” she tells. “I had a young son and I was pregnant with my daughter.”

The business was busy from the start and feeling overwhelmed Maria convinced brother

Alex Simeonidis to join them as a partner in the restaurant. He too came to love this American town and made it his home.

Today the restaurant reflects the rich history of this Greek/American family. A large photo of Maria’s father hangs near the entrance. Archie Simeonidis, along with brothers George, Gus, and Lazaros worked the Inco nickel mines nine hours north of Winnipeg, saving up money to open the first Santa Lucia in Thompson, Manitoba in 1971 followed by a second Santa Lucia in Winnipeg in 1974.

A year after opening the Fargo restaurant Alex and Geoff branched out to take the Greek cuisine to festivals across the country, leaving Maria to operate the Fargo Santa Lucia. They can now be found at more than 80 festivals in the U.S. and Canada every year including the Texas Renaissance Festival running three months straight. In addition, Maria’s other brothers and cousins operate Santa Lucias in various Canadian locations totaling 10 in all.

At the heart of it all are the mouth-watering recipes handed down through the generations, from grandmother to mother to daughter. Mousaka, Maria admitted, is one of her favorites; it’s made with layers of eggplant, potato, seasoned beef, and a cream béchamel topping.

The Greek ribs with a dry rub are a delectable alternative to the BBQ ribs found in most American restaurants. Many of the dishes use lemon, garlic, and oregano—stapes in Greek cuisine. Santa Lucia is also known for its gourmet pizzas winning the Consumer Choice Award in Winnipeg for the ninth year.

A popular Greek motto in life is “everything in moderation.” Maria abides by this rule in life, balancing all she does with grace and dignity. She not only manages a restaurant and raises a family, but also gives back to the community advocating healthy eating, sitting on the board of a homeless shelter, and volunteering for charities.

An old school rhyme passed down to Maria from her parents sums it all up. “Good, Better, Best, we never let it rest, till the good becomes the better and the better becomes the best.