Finer Things

Rule breaker

Renowned for creating truly unique timepieces, MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser has never been afraid to go against the grain

Working as a senior manager at Jaeger-LeCoultre and then as CEO at Harry Winston, Maximilian Büsser had always conformed to the rules of corporate watchmaking. Then, after 15 years at these famous brands, he decided to break free of the chains and start his own avant-garde boutique watch brand called MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends).

In the 14 years since that decision, MB&F has established itself as one of the most innovative watch brands in the world. Each timepiece is unique, with Büsser seeing his creations as mechanical works of art. The newest production, the Legacy Machine FlyingT, was unveiled recently at Baselworld to critical acclaim.

We met with Büsser at The MB&F M.A.D. Gallery in Dubai to learn more about his creative approach to watchmaking, discover why its important to embrace the digital age and find out why events such as Baselworld and SIHH remain hugely important.

What were you looking for when you decided to make the move to your new home? “MB&F was definitely a life decision, not a business one. I needed to create a small company that would allow me to be free on a creative and human level. By following my own path, I have invented a seemingly new business model and am happy if it inspires others to find their own way.

“When I first launched, I had the designs of HM1 and HM2 and a sketch of HM3. That is all. Now 14 years later, we have created 10 horological machines, five legacy machines and dozens of co-creations. I had no idea I would be creating all that.”

Towards the end of last year, you released the HM9, when did you dream up the concept and how many years did it take to create? “I wanted the HM9 Flow to be a tribute to the great aerodynamic designs of the 1940s and ‘50s. A time when creators and engineers did not have wind tunnels to ensure their designs were actually efficient. With no such boundaries, the designers had finally way more freedom to create something beautiful.

“I had the idea to create the watch in early 2015 and it took three and a half years to come to life, but it should have taken much longer. We were lucky that we had already spent many years developing the very first double flying balance wheel movement with LM2 and that we had experimented so much with insanely difficult cases like our HM4 and HM6 before that. Otherwise, it would have easily taken eight to nine years and I’m still not sure it would have seen the light of day.”

You also recently released the HM6 Final Edition, but do you ever feel pressured by collectors and enthusiasts to keep coming up with new takes on a series? “Our collectors and fans’ expectations keep on increasing with each launch. It is something I cannot think about because it would completely block my creative process. At the end of the day, I am not interested in recreating something I have already done so I am the most difficult person to please.

“In the case of the HM6 Final Edition, it was truly a way to honour our word. We had said from the launch date that there would be only 100 movements crafted. After four years, there were eight movements left to craft and we decided to make a very special piece out of them. It honestly makes no economical sense to create a new case for eight pieces, but that is also why I created MB&F; to be free to create whatever I want without having a CFO or CMO tell me what to do.” We have seen big name brands embracing the digital age by coming out with smartwatches. What do you make of this trend and can you see the watch industry changing in the years to come? “The smartwatch is changing our industry for sure. And those who think that traditional high-end mechanical watchmaking will not be affected are delusional. At the same time, it seems insane for the Swiss to try to compete with the USA, China and Korea in that industry. No one would expect the Swiss to compete in the smartphone market so why do you think we have a chance in the smartwatch world which is not a watch but a mini-computer?

“The real battle we are facing is a real-estate one, and the prized possession is actually our clients’ wrists. Will our clients start wearing a smartwatch on one wrist and a beautiful mechanical timepiece on the other or will they just abandon art for convenience. I actually have no idea but the big watch brands will have to come out with way more interesting and enthusiasm-generating creations if they want to level the playing field.”

How important are shows such as SIHH and Baselworld and is it a good idea for them to run back to back from 2020? “They are far from ideal but they bring convenience. We are retailed through 24 retailers in 19 countries. If we were not presenting at SIHH and Baselworld, we would be travelling the world for months trying to showcase our novelties to all our retail partners and the press.

“Next year, the two shows being back to back, we will need to decide which one we choose. Each show has its pros and cons. It will, for sure, make the retailers and press’ lives much easier by travelling only once to Switzerland instead of twice in a short timespan.”

Do you already have ideas for watches that MB&F will produce in the next several years? “The most frustrating part of my work is that it is so incredibly engineering intensive, which means that any new idea will take us three to four years to complete. If I do not know today what is coming out in four years, there will be nothing. We have at the moment seven movements in the pipeline, taking us to 2024. Some are fully functional and waiting to be delivered, others are at the early stages of feasibility studies. However, not knowing what will pop into my head and therefore take the company to the next step is a great part of the fun.” 

Dividing opinion at the show, this hand-wound calibre timepiece features Hautlence’s eighth internally developed movement. The sphere rotates 450 degrees on two spindles at 21-degree angles every hour to display the correct hour while the retrograde minute display makes this watch very power hungry.

ALCHEMISTS CU29

Visually stunning, this haute horlogerie piece has a lot of interesting elements. The case material is a cuprom alloy which is a blend of copper, gold and silver, while the bubble-like aesthetic allows for an interesting view of all the mechanical components.

BEST OF Baselworld Aesthetic creativity and mechanical innovation are at the core of this year’s finest timepieces

BREITLING NAVITIMER REF 806 1959 RE-EDITION

A few small changes have gone a long way, with true lovers of Breitling’s heritage watches adoring this update to the classic Navitimer. As well as featuring an iconic dial with slide rule bezel, it also features a chronograph function and 70 hours of power reserve.

MB&F LEGACY MACHINE FLYINGT

The very first MB&F watch designed for women, this striking timepiece features a flying 60-second tourbillon and is equipped with 100 hours of power reserve. Showcasing brains and beauty, the case is crafted in 18-karat white gold with a domed sapphire crystal.

LOUIS MOINET ULTRAVOX

The first-ever hour-strike timepiece by the brand, the Ultravox pays homage to the classic pocket watches produced by Louis Monet more than 200 years ago. Featuring 38 hours of power reserve and twin micro rotors, just 28 pieces have been made available.

FRANCK DUBARRY CRAZY WHEEL 2

Highly functional and robust, this 43mm timepiece uses innovative materials and advanced production techniques to display a 360-degree rotating module. Also featuring an exclusive flying hour bridge, the Crazy Wheel was constructed using carbon, Kevlar and grade 5 titanium.