The Insider's Guide
VENICE The City of Canals
December 2017
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TABLE OF CONTENTS Overview 3 Gondola Rides 4 Venetian Boat Tour 5 Venetian Masks 6 Unique Shops and Souvenirs 7 Artisan Gelato and Chocolate 8 -10 Map of Venice's Six Sestieri (neighborhoods) 11 Sestieri - San Marco 12 - 18 Sestieri - San Polo 19 - 20 Sestieri - Santa Croce 21 Sestieri - Cannaregio 22 - 26 Sestieri - Castello 27 - 29 Sestieri - Dorsoduro 30
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VENICE OVERVIEW Want to make the most of the time you have in Venice? My guide on Venice will help you decide how to spend your time . . . from exploring the lagoon in a skippered ‘bragozzetto’ boat, to a gourmet lunch or dinner date in a restaurant overlooking the Grand Canal or possibly a private table for two in a nearby vineyard. Let's face it, Venice is one of the world's most iconic and crowded places in the world. Many visitors to Venice never explore beyond St. Mark's Square. That is too bad since the real side of Venice is in the other nearby siestieri (districts). My first trip to Venice was not the fairy tale I had been dreaming about. I didn't realize how crowded it would be and the overpriced restaurants served mass-produced tourist food unless you knew where to go. This guide was written to help with suggestions and recommendations by in-the-know locals and friends who know and love the city. The key to living the dream you've always imagined and avoiding the tourist trap is to have a plan before you arrive in Venice. If this is your first time to visit Venice, then you must visit the main sites but give yourself a few extra days to discover secret Venice. Get a map and make a plan to wander off into the narrow alleys of the local neighborhoods where you can still hear native Venetian spoken. Whether this is your first time or have visited many times, this guide on Venice will be sure you see famous landmarks, some of the city's best boutiques, gelato shops, memorable restaurants, museums and more. There are hundreds of art museums and over 150 churches in Venice and they are all beautiful with historic works of art by famous painters. As you walk past them stop in and visit a few of them. Your vacation shouldn't leave anything to chance. Every moment of your trip in Venice should be spent doing things that are relevant to you: visiting famous monuments; private tours of the Grand Canal, having dinner at stunning locations; relaxing in amazing hotels or stunning resorts. If planning your trip is overwhelming or you're simply too busy to plan, send an email to Anne@villas-and-vines.com and I'll take charge of managing your trip with all of the activities you desire in order for you to enjoy the perfect vacation. I would love to hear your recommendations if didn't include them. Please send them to me at Anne@villas-and-vines.com
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GONDOLA RIDES Ahhhh . . . Romantic Venice! Just imagine being in Venice on a romantic gondola ride among the canals. You've imagined it for years and just like you've seen in the movies drifting along while the gondolier serenades a romantic song while you are in the arms of your lover.
Apparently you weren't the only one having that dream. The scene below is more likely what you will experience. A chaotic, traffic jam on the canals at a very high price.
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VENETIAN BOAT TOUR OF THE GRAND CANAL The Grand Canal is shaped like and upside down "S" bisecting the city, winding its way through all the sestieri (districts). Rather than a gondola ride, how about a luxury Venetian boat tour (limited to nine guests) cruising the Grand Canal while passing iconic palaces, buildings and bridges of the city. One of Venice’s grandest traditions is boating down the Grand Canal. The city's main waterway is lined with the most beautiful palaces and bridges. From the water, you'll see the Rialto Bridge; Rialto Fish Market; the Doge’s Palace and St. Mark's Basilica. View the prettiest "liquid streets" of Venice while getting a sense of how Venetians live. Take the trip during the day, as well as another at night when the palazzi are illuminated. For those just looking to get from one side of the canal to the other, the targhetto is a simple alternative for about 2 euros. It holds up to 14 guests at a time.
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VENETIAN MASKS Venetian masks have been worn in Venice for centuries. It wasn't until much later that they emerged as the emblem of Carnevale. Venice enjoyed a high standard of living and they developed a unique culture - one in which hiding their identity in daily life was important. Venice is a small town and there were things to do, people to see, and they didn't want others to know what they were doing. As a result of the hidden identity, people found themselves taking advantage of the situation. The society grew ever more decadent. The immense amount of travelers coming through the city meant that sexual promiscuity was commonplace and acceptable. Gambling went on all day and night in the streets and houses, even in convents. Women's clothing became more revealing; homosexuality, while publicly condemned, was embraced by the populace. Take time to visit Canovaccio, one of finest handmade Venetian masks atelier who has been working with top cinema and theater productions. At Kartaruga Mascheraio you can visit his shop and also make your own Venetian mask. Both shops are in the Sestieri of Castello. Other quality shops to purchase masks may be found at Laboratorio Artigiano, MondoNovo, La Canapiglia, and Artigianato Artistico Veneziano. Gioria and Paola of Decima Musa di Giorgia De Carli e Paola Zennaro mask-sculptures are different from all the others. A mask from this shop is much more a treasure than a costume.
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UNIQUE SHOPS & SOUVENIRS Souvenir shopping can be "hit or miss" in Venice. It's hard to tell what's real and authentic from what's produced in China. Below are a few shops that offer authentic, handmade souvenirs of Venice. Fonderia Valese - Cannergio - Carlo Semenzato carries on the tradition of sand casting using bronze and brass. This is the last artistic foundry remaining in Venice who makes romantic street lamps, to the original door knockers of the palaces on the Grand Canal, up to the marine decorations of the beautiful gondolas. Venetian Dreams - San Marco - Marisa Convento represents the last of the Impiraressas (bead stringers) in Venice. She is famous for the fine art of threading tiny pearls, beads and Venetian glass known as conterie and still works today just as they did centuries ago with the same hypnotic agility and speed. Her workshop is focused on female craftsmanship where every necklace or fashion accessory is a one of a kind creation. Arcobaleno (Translates to Rainbow) - San Marco - This is a phenomenal shop full of Murano glass beads, leather goods, paper goods, and more. You are able to design your own authentic piece of jewelry from a selection of raw materials at a very reasonable cost and they will assemble it for you at no additional cost. Or you can select a custom leather journal or even a Venetian brass lion door knocker. La Colonna, Atelier D'Arte - San Polo - The work of Nelson Padoan conveys not only the beauty of Venice, but also the intense array of emotions one experiences in this city. In his shop near Campo Dei Frari, you'll find this friendly young artist painting away at his colorful canvases. Nelson's prices are more than reasonable for the quality and originality of his pieces. He is one of few artists in Venice whose work reaches beyond the picturesque beauty of the city and tells its compelling story in lines, light and color. Il Forcolaio Matto Venezia - Cannaregio - Piero Dri masters the craft of creating forcole (oar locks) and remi (oars) for traditional Venetian gondolas but his sculptural works are not only for gondoliers. Piero has invented the "forcollana" a hand carved miniature forcola that makes a perfect pendant for a necklace and he also makes small and medium sized forcola sculptures. These are unique, warm and authentic souvenirs of Venice in beautiful shapes and colors. Zacaria's Oggetti Artistici - San Marco - The artisan-owner of Zacaria's designs, paints and prints gorgeous greeting cards, paintings and even puzzles with fantastic colorful images of Venice and sells them at prices that seam incredibly low for the quality of the her work.
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GELATO Who doesn't love gelato? Unfortunately, many gelato shops continue to pass off mass-produced, brightly colored, factory-made flavorless gelato. Don't waste your time eating gelato that isn't locally produced and made in small batches with natural flavors. That said, with a little effort you can find artisans who serve up fresh, handmade, all-natural gelato daily. Here, are some of the local favorites where you’ll find the best gelato in Venice.
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GELATO Gelateria Ca' d' Oro - Canneregio - You’ll definitely need a gelato pit-stop once you try this place. Flavors to try are the lemon with champagne, tiramisu and stracciatella (chocolate chip). The prices are very very good, too! SuSo on Calle della Bissa - San Marco - It may be a chain but it is some of the very best you'll taste. Not only is the lady working there really friendly, but their artisan gelato is out of this world. They make their own cones and have some amazing flavors such as chocolate hazelnut, bitter chocolate with mandarin, and salted pistachio with gianduja. Alaska Geleteria - Santa Croce - Using only the freshest natural ingredients and serving some of the most imaginative gelato flavors that you will find in Venice. Carlo Pistacchi is passionate about his craft and proud of his homemade creations. This tiny gelato temple might be tucked away from the crowds, but it’s well worth the trek. The consistency of Alaska’s gelato is noticeably lighter and less dense than others on this list—but certainly without compromise to the fullness of its flavor. Gelateria Il Doge - Dorsoduro - is located in Campo Santa Margherita, this traditional gelateria stands out from its competitors. You will recognize it by the long line of people, both locals and tourists, waiting for service. Their signature flavor is the Crema de Doge, a sumptuous mixture of chocolate, cream, and oranges. Also, the staff is very friendly and they are normally opened until late at night.
ARTISAN GELATO & CHOCOLATE La Boutique del Gelato - Castello - One of the most popular gelaterias in Venice is a tiny artisanal outfit with a dedicated local following. Don’t be surprised if you have to wait a while for service; there is always a crowd at this standing room only gelateria. Just take it as proof of their commitment to making some of the creamiest and most delicious gelato that you can find in Venice. Gelateria Da Nico - Dorsoduro - This is another great option for gelato in Venice with a beautiful terrace overlooking the Grand Canal and Giudecca Island. Talk about a win/win situation! Try the amaretto or the chocolate hazelnut gianduiotto. La Mela Verde - Castello - is a small artisan gelateria not too far from Piazza San Marco that features great quality at reasonable prices. It has a small but outstanding choice of all natural flavors made with fresh ingredients. If you visit this charming place try the giotto gelato, made with white chocolate, almonds, and coconut. Venchi Cioccogelateria - San Marco - excellent gelato and chocolates even though it is a chain. Gelato Fantasy - San Marco - is another favorite with all natural flavors and colors. They are reasonably priced serving larger portions. Gelato di Natura - Canneregio -This is a franchise store but has great reviews. If you don't want gelato they also have cookies and biscotti available. Gelato San Stae - Santa Croce - Beautiful desserts and gelato. The pear and honey gelato is highly recommended. Located on a hidden street but worth searching. Vizio Virtù Cioccolatieri - Castello - creates mini masks and spoons, all made from the finest chocolate. Owner Mariangela Penzo uses only the best ingredients and it shows. Try their Goldoni (hot chocolate drink), with no milk or sugar. Tours, classes, and tastings are available. And it’s right in the heart of the laguna between Rialto and San Marco . Venchi Cioccolatier - San Marco - Those with a love for chocolate look no further than Venchi! Choose from traditional chocolates to the more exotic and innovative recipes. They offer beautiful packaging so you can bring it back with you as a gift.
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THE SIX SESTIERI (NEIGHBORHOODS OF VENICE) Venice is a rather small and could be walked from one end to another in less than an hour. Each sestieri has its own unique charm, but they are all lovely and within easy walking distance of each other. Venice is divided geographically by siestieri (districts) for ease of getting around. Where possible, I have mentioned the siestieri next to the shop or monument. The historic center is within several islets and canals, forming what is basically one island. The six central sestieri are: San Marco - This is the historical center of town, with the grand Piazza San Marco at its very heart. Without a doubt this is the busiest and most famous area of Venice. Cannaregio - Largest and most populated residential area and where the train station is based. In the area of the Ormesini and Sensa canals at the northern end of Cannaregio you can still enjoy a real slice of genuine Venetian life. Castello - The largest district in the city and contains the famed Arsenale where the shipyards produced the warships. Dorsoduro - Neighborhood with serene canals, picturesque residences belonging to Venice's wealthy and several art galleries. San Polo - Colorful and lively with small shops and bars near the Rialto Bridge Santa Croce - Tightly packed streets and squares offering an inside look at the local side of Venice. This is where the bus terminal is located.
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SESTIERI - SAN MARCO Start your Venetian vacation near the St Mark’s Square with a full-bodied morning coffee at Caffé Girani. This mother-and-daughter team continues their family tradition of hand roasting at a lower temperature to keep the coffee from being bitter. Choose among one of Caffè Girani’s special blends from Casanova to the strong Rosina). You won't be disappointed! Monday Saturday until 12:30 pm.
Piazza San Marco is the heart of Venice and has the most popular streets for shopping like Gucci, Fendi, and Ferragamo. It may not be possible to escape the crowds and chaos near the famous landmarks, but there are ways to manage your way through the crowds. In the evenings the piazza is a wonderful place to watch people and listen to the musicians. Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo is famous for his painting, photography, set design, and most especially, textile-making. His former home, Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei, has turned into a museum housing ancient Greek costumes, Venetian tapestries, Renaissance brocades, textiles and costumes.
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SESTIERI - SAN MARCO Consider a private or small tour group that will take you to secret passages of Casanova's prison cell, the Doge's Palace and St. Mark's Basilica, the most famous and exotic cathedral in all of Venice. Be sure to head up to the Loggia dei Cavalli with it's dramatic balcony views and you are just beneath 13th century mosaics. Get a bird's eye view of the city from the top of the Campanile, (bell tower) located in the center of the piazza. Get there when the tower opens at 9:00 am to beat the crowds. Palazzo Ducale is an impressive sight with the Staircase of the Giants, with the two colossal statues of Mars and Neptune on either side of the landing. You will see beautiful ceilings, marble fireplaces, paintings, sculptures, tapestries, medieval weapons rooms and ancient dungeons. The Museo Correr & Biblioteca Nazionale has displays of old coins, ancient maps, prints, drawings, paintings, instruments, gloves, ships models, muskets, powder horns, cannons, swords, backgammon boards, playing cards, jigsaw puzzles, yoyo artifacts, mementos and even high heeled shoes from the Venetian Republic.
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SESTIERI - SAN MARCO The Gran Teatro La Fenice (The Phoenix) - is one of the most famous opera houses in the world. It attracts not only performers of the highest quality but also audiences of persons who possess wealth and exude refinement. It has been rebuilt to its former glory after having been destroyed by a fire in 1996. It is now open again, and one of the most beautiful opera houses in the world. The Bridge of Sighs connects the Doge's Palace and the Prigione Nuovo (New Prison). The name Bridge of Sighs is so named because the prisoners would sigh with despair as this was their last glimpse of Venice from the window as they were taken from the examination room to their prison cell or execution.
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SAN MARCO TORRE DELL'OROLOGIO Plan to arrive in Piazza San Marco at the change of any given hour, and you'll find a show at the Torre dell'Orologio (clock tower) that has been happening since it was built in the 1400s.
According to some, it symbolizes the most ancient awareness of the human race: the passing of time from the old to the young as seen by the two huge bronze statues of men hammering a bell. The old man symbolizes the hour that is ending, while the young man beats the bell with his hammer at the stroke of the new hour symbolizing the future. Another spectacular part of the Tower is the beautiful astronomical clock built by a father and his son indicating the passing of the seasons, the phases of the moon and the movement of the sun. There are two doors indicating the hour and minutes of the day on the side of the Virgin Mary and baby Jesus. During Epiphany and the Ascension the doors open and let out the three Magi who bow before the Virgin with the child.
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SESTIERI - SAN MARCO Originally made of wood, the Ponte di Rialto is the oldest of three bridges spanning the Grand Canal and connects the sestieri of San Marco to San Polo. (shown below) Normally I wouldn't recommend to sit in the square at such a tourist spot but Caffe Florian is the place to splurge and just enjoy Venice. People don’t sit here for a simple coffee or hot chocolate but to simply be in the moment, listen to the music of the orchestra, be pampered by the excellent service on silver trays and enjoy the view of one of the most beautiful piazzas. Now that you've seen the "must see" sights it's time to get lost and explore the charm of the island for a few hours. Just remember you are on an island and can't wander too far away. Walking up and down the canals and the narrow back lanes of Venice is one way to see the city and break away from the crowds. Along the way, you’ll see Venetian beautiful palaces, Gothic windows, marbled facades, and hear singing gondoliers.
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SAN MARCO RESTAURANTS The bakeries, wine bars, and restaurants listed below are a mix of local institutions, those with canal side terraces, roof top views, and places not frequented by the masses. Keep in mind if you stand at the bar or counter the price is at least half of the cost than if you choose to sit at a table. Venice is known for their cecchiti (tapas style plates) before dinner. Some people just make a meal going from bar to bar having cecchiti. All of the places mentioned pride themselves on serving fresh seafood from local waters. That isn't the case in most of the tourist restaurants. Terrazza Danieli is an expensive, upscale restaurant on the roof of the Hotel Danieli (gorgeous former palace), offering a panoramic view of Venice. Enjoy traditional Venetian cuisine with seafood such as turbot, risotto with clams, or equally delicious vegetarian options. Open daily for both lunch and dinner. On the ground floor there is the famous Bar Dandolo, one of James Bond’s favorite bars considering the British spy hung out in Danieli at least in three of his films: Casino Royale (2006), From Russia with Love (1963) and Moonraker (1979). As a tribute to the famous secret agent the hotel’s main signature cocktail is “Vesper Martini”, named after the Bond Girl who appeared in the first Fleming’s novel, Casino Royale, strictly served “shaken, not stirred”. Da Ivo might be one of the best restaurants in town and expensive. Depending on the season you will enjoy fresh grilled branzino, prawns, ossobucco, and grilled veal chops among other fine foods. The gondoliers glide by and pick up a glass of wine and a snack provided by the restaurant. On their next trip around, they return the empty glass. Cavatappi is a nice place for a snack, lunch or dinner. The interior has clean lines and an openness to it. Fine wines by the glass are served with excellent salumi and cheeses. Risotto and salads are available for lunch. For dinner the meals are more elaborate. Closed Sunday evening and Monday. Osteria agli Assassini is a good place with honest food and wine in a friendly atmosphere. Very good vegetables and nice cheeses on hand to match the wine list. Closed Sunday. Osteria da Carla is a tiny place only a five minute walk from Piazza San Marco tucked away from the crowds. For a casual lunch of soups, fish, vegetables, and polenta and also for cicchetti. Al Bacareto is good for both small plates or an expensive meal if that is what you prefer. At lunch you can go to the bar and ask for the risotto of the day. The prices are reasonable if you come for the small plates, otherwise it can get expensive. Closed Sunday and no credit cards accepted.
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SAN MARCO RESTAURANTS Taverna La Fenice - Even if you aren't going to the opera you should plan to eat at La Fenice. The cuisine is based primarily on Venetian traditions focusing on meat dishes but there is also a nice selection of fish and various vegetables. The recipes are prepared according to tradition while still allowing inspiration from the chef. Osteria San Marco - The cuisine is cosmopolitan with a Venetian flair using the best products and spices. The chefs have a focus on quality and offer unique and unpredictable selections in a contemporary environment. Pasticceria Marchini Time - This is an excellent pasticceria (bakery) frequented by everyone and a favorite of San Marco residents . Don't let the location fool you! This is a very central place that is absolutely worth visiting! Prices are equal or less than other pastry shops in Venice, while the quality is absolutely equal to or greater! Colussi Il Fornaio - Located down a narrow street not far from the busiest pedestrian part of Venice is a wonderful bakery that serves up not only the usual breads and biscotti but also muffins, savory tarts and lots of other baked treats. Ai Mercanti is a little gem tucked away in a tiny square near Piazza San Marco that mixes the atmosphere of a sophisticated bistro with the best – and very rare! Venetian culinary traditions are based on humble, everyday ingredients, with a creative twist. Make a reservation and ask to sit on the square for lunch or dinner during the spring and summer. Chat Qui Rit (The Laughing Cat) - Giovanni Mozzato leaves nothing to change at her charming restaurant since she purchased it in 2015. This is the place to relax and feel pampered in this historic restaurant that was born in the '40s. The food is a merger between Tradition and Innovation, the true soul of Venice. The service is outstanding and the ambiance is sophisticated like a fine dining restaurant, comfortable like a bistro, upbeat like a cocktail bar. Osteria I Rusteghi - the best wines, great food, a cozy atmosphere, dim lighting, …and a host you will feel like you’ve known him forever. Stop for lunch, dinner or a gourmet break with “noble” dishes such as beef tartare, foie gras, scallops or fresh fish carefully selected every morning at the famous Rialto market. With only a dozen seats inside the small osteria and just as many in the little square, it’s definitely best to book in advance.
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SESTIERI - SAN POLO San Polo, the oldest and most medieval part of Venice is a maze of tiny streets all eventually leading to some part of the Grand Canal. This quarter stretches from the bustling Rialto Market along the Grand Canal to San Toma. It’s a lesser known part of the city, residential but with pockets of antique stores, leather makers and chocolate making shops that make it a great part of Venice for exploring. The Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari one of the best churches in the city is built of brick in the Italian Gothic style. The exterior is deliberately plain in accordance with the Franciscan emphasis on poverty and austerity. The interior is light and spacious with Titian's Madonna di Ca' Pesaro in the left aisle. Just to the west of the Rialto bridge is where the fishermen bring in fresh seafood from the Adriatic to sell to the local chefs and residents known as the Mercati di Pesceria. Close by is the Mercati di Erberia (vegetable market) where the local farmers sell some of the best artichokes and asparagus that is grown on the surrounding islands. It's an energetic, crowded, fun way to spend the morning before lunch (closed Sunday and Monday). This is a great spot for colorful photos with farmers, fishermen and other vendors selling their wares.
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EATING IN SAN POLO There are bars everywhere and the wine is poured at a much earlier hour in San Polo than in other parts of the city. Some of the best, and most famous, Venetian restaurants are in San Polo. Panificio Barozzi Bakery is a great place to find some of the best whole grain breads. If you aren't into sweets you can try the savory pastries like black olive scones and spinach and feta tarts. It is one of the best bakeries and offers a great selection of baked items. Since 1741 Pasticceria Rizzardini has been baking traditional recipes including Venetian cookies and pastries. Osteria Dai Zemei - is a small no-frills, centrally located osteria near the Rialto market. You'll find a great selection of regional wines and huge selection of crostini and most of it is made to order. This is the place to stop for a snack in the late morning or early evening. Try the radicchio salsa and peppered pancetta. Yes, they sell out fast! But if you go in the late morning or early evening you can catch it at a moment when the counter has just been stocked. La Porta D'Acqua - Located in the midst of the tourist area and serving great food. It has a warm ambiance with a friendly staff. It's perfect in every detail, from the glass chandeliers to the exposed brick to the preserved original paintings on the interior walls. Cantina Do Moro - This dark little bar, with copper pots hanging from the ceiling, is where the traders of the Rialto market take their pre-lunch glass of prosecco, followed by a few cicchetti. Lately, the quality has not been as good while the prices have increased. There is no restroom for the customers. The atmosphere is what is unique about this place nowadays. Trattoria alla Madonna - A nice trattoria, first-rate reception and especially fine typical Venetian food. A guaranteed Venetian ambiance while at the same time Venetian and tourist customers are not segregated: everybody is seated together. All'Arco - One of the wine bars to savor cicchetti at the bar. Open only in the afternoon. Antiche Carampane - Each morning the chef heads to the Rialto market to select the freshest fish and vegetables from the lagoon. What you'll love about this place is the sign at the entrance "no pizza, no lasagna, no touristico menu". The location is very hard to find but worth it when you find it.
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SESTIERI - SANTA CROCE This quarter of Venice is perhaps the most untouched and undiscovered by tourism. Other than the squares around the station, which can feel crowded especially at certain times of the day, this is a mostly residential area with lots of baccari (wine shops) to stop off for a few cicchetti and a spritz, and plenty of small shops selling local produce. You will also find most of the older buildings associated with the University in this quarter. In Santa Croce you'll find Campo San Giacomo dell' Orio, which is a blast of color and life in the early evening. La Zucca blends the charm of a traditional “osteria” with a bohemian-chic atmosphere. The cuisine is reasonably priced and is a must for those who love their vegetables. Make a reservation and ask for a table outside so you can watch the action. (pictured below) The Pasticceria Gilda offers one of the most idyllic locations in which to enjoy a coffee, pastries and excellent tiramisu in Venice. The shop is small and quaint with only a few outdoor tables along a quiet canal. Add to this a friendly waitstaff and very good pastries and you've got a near perfect place to relax in and take in the beauty of Venice away from the crowds. (Closed Wednesday) Vecio Fritolin is a relative newcomer and it is owned by Irena Freguia who is likely to greet you as you enter her restaurant. Everything is freshly prepared from local ingredients. She makes it simple to order by selecting your choice of 2 or 3 courses for a price of 60 or 70 euros respectively.
SESTIERI - CANNAREGIO This quarter is one of the better kept secrets of Venice: mostly residential and wonderfully peaceful. Narrow streets, charming views of bridges over the canals, bakeries that have been there for generations and small shops mostly geared towards the needs of the locals. Largely untouched by visitors, this area near the train station and offers a wealth of monuments, beautiful bridges and the oldest Jewish ghetto in Europe, the Church of Madonna dell’Orto and the ornate Cà d’Oro palace. Hidden in the quiet streets, . It is also worth exploring the Jewish Ghetto – the oldest Ghetto in the world, there is still a very vibrant Jewish community living in this part of the city, with a number of fabulous kosher eateries. The Ca d’Oro Palace (Golden Palace) is a magnificent building and one of the oldest palaces in Venice built in the 15th century. It was beautifully restored in the 20th century by the final owner, Giorgio Franchetti . He began restoring, renovating and preserving the beautiful architecture. He also amassed a fine art collection and on his death left the property to the state. Learn to row Venetian-style as your instructor from Row Venice will teach you the art of Voga all Veneta. Up to 4 guests per boat for 90 minutes will have their turn rowing as you glide along the quiet canals. Who knows you might even master the poppa technique where you are steering the boat yourself at the stern, just like the gondoliers. These hand-crafted “shrimp-tailed” boats have almost disappeared today. There are only seven in existence today and were originally used by the common people while the gondolas were only used by the rich.
CHURCHES IN THE CANNAREGIO Even if you aren't Catholic why not attend Mass at one of the beautiful churches? You'll have an hour to sit and admire mosaics, paintings, and some of the most beautiful architecture. Santa Maria Assunta is an impressive church (also known as Gesuiti) which was built in the 12 century. It was originally owned by monks who were run out by the Pope because they were running a brothel out of the cloisters. The Gesuiti (Jesuits) have been running the church since the 1600s. (top right) The jewel of Cannareggio is Santa Maria dei Miracoli an unmissable treasure of Renaissance marble. This is a popular church with the Venetians and where they choose to be married. (bottom right) Madonna dell'Orto - A Venetian Gothic church with a brick facade built in the mid 14th century is one of the most charming churches in Venice Oratorio dei Crociferi - small chapel with paintings by Palma il Giovane. BUY A CHORUS CHURCH PASS and see some of the best preserved churches in Venice for a rate of about 12 euros. Individual tickets to the churches are 3 euros. It doesn't include The Basilica di San Marco. www.chorusvenezia.org
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THE BRIDGES OF THE CANNAREGIO
The Cannaregio district is the largest and most populated section of Venice. It stretches from the Lagoon and the Grand Canal to the San Marco district. This area is known for its picturesque bridges and local restaurants. 3749 Ponte de Chiodo - Walk over a bridge with no parapet (handrails) that dates back to the year 800! There used to be quite a few of these in Venice but these days there are only two remaining. You may have to wait your turn for a photo but it is picturesque. (Top) Racheta Bridge over the Rio de Santa Caterina can be found in one of the local neighborhoods. (Middle) The Ponte delle Guglie, located in the immediate vicinity of the Santa Lucia train station, is one of the two bridges that crosses the Canale Cannaregio. The bridge has its origins in the early 13th century, however, the present bridge was only built in 1823. Ponte dell Guglie acts as a connection for people crossing over from the Piazza San Marco or San Polo after visiting Rialto Bridge.
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EATING IN CANNAREGIO Despite the daily invasion of tourists that flood Venice, some neighborhoods retain a down-to-earth village feeling where one will find butchers and bakers in the residential quarter at the northern end of Cannaregio. Here are some of the best bars, restaurants, and shops to check out. Osteria alla Frasca - Attracted by the picturesque location in 2012, the Venetian restaurateur Bruno Natural decided to bring it back to its original charm and restore every original detail. The food is simple Venetian cuisine and most of the drinks served are produced in Venice: Orto, the only wine actually produced in Venice and even the coffee that comes from the Girani coffee roasting company, the last one remaining in Venice. Osteria Orto Dei Mori - A wonderful small restaurant in a quiet and authentic neighborhood. Chef Lorenzo Cipolla was the former chef at NY's Harry Cipriani. Celebrities in the know head to this gem off the beaten path. Trattoria da Alvise is a casual restaurant overlooking the water and faces the northern lagoon with a view of the Dolomites (on a clear day). The terrace is built over the water and guests can listen to the gentle lapping of waves as they eat. The staff is warm and accommodating, and serve a menu of Venetian seafood and pizzas. Open daily. Ostaria da Rioba - You'll be impressed with the meals including pasta stuffed with blue cheese, radicchio and pear, risotto with sage and citrus enjoyed with a view over a Cannaregio waterway. Another reason for dining here is the hand-blown glassware. Yes, it is for sale to take home. Vini da Gigio - Paolo and Laura Lazzari, the brother and sister team who run this intimate spot, have a faithful local clientele who come for the best made risottos and the city's finest wine list. Seasonal specials such as wild duck from the lagoon or deep-fried soft-shell crabs, known as moeche, are very good. Reservations need to be made or you won't get in . La Bea Vita is on the edge of the Jewish Ghetto and everything is prepared from scratch everyday in their kitchen. Operai is a set menu or daily special of 2 or 3 courses offered each day to the workers or tourists. The cost is about €12 for a full meal and is served in many trattorias for lunch. There is canal side terrace seating up to 20 and inside they can seat up to 30 people. Al Timon is an institution and known for their cicchetti. Most recently this has become a spot for the tour guides to bring their groups. For this reason I would not recommend this place. The staff is more focused on the tour groups rather than individual customers.
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CICCHETTI & WINE BARS CANNAREGIO Cantina Vecia Carbonera - Directly across from Campo Maddalena is a famous place known for their frittura cicchetti! This is the place to eat fried zucchini flowers when you are in Venice. They are known for their reasonable prices, good wines, local flavor, and friendly staff. Old wooden benches and wine-barrel tables set the mood. It’s a local hub so expect a crowd or avoid cocktail hour. Un Mondo Di Vino - This place has become quite popular for cicchetti! It is one of the best places to come if you are trying to make a meal of cicchetti. There is nothing simple about it. You'll find all kinds of steamed and sautéed seafood, polpetti (meatballs) and fresh and cooked vegetables. Arrive early for lunch unless you want to stand in line. Paneficio Volpe Giovanni is a busy bakery and it's easy to tell why. Everything here is delicious. The aroma of fresh baked rosemary flat bread penetrates this neighborhood. Osteria all Frasca - Don't pay any attention to the appearance of this humble place but on the experience of an excellent meal overlooking the Campielo della Carita. Here you will be served fresh, simple, Venetian fare at reasonable prices in a peaceful neighborhood setting. Osteria Antica Adelaide - Truly a hidden gem in Cannaregio well worth seeking out for anyone interested in a wonderful seafood dinner. Adelaide has an exposed kitchen and a large bar/ foyer area featuring stunning stained glass windows. This is definitely the kind of place one hopes to stumble upon in the backstreets of Venice and one of the great rewards for those who take a chance. The food is fresh and bright and served with a smile at reasonable prices. Ask your hotel concierge for the best directions to find this place. Taverna Del Campiello Remer - Remer is a beautiful local s place on the Grand Canal directly opposite the Mercato near the Rialto Bridge. It is well known for it's excellent food, great location and stunning interior of pillars, statues, and wells that have been beautifully preserved. Come for cicchetti or dinner. Paradiso Perduto - Nice pasta dishes and fresh seafood in a relaxing location along the Canlee delle Misercordia.
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VENICE DINING IN CASTELLO Traditionally one of the city’s most authentic, poorer districts has a rather charming village-like feel to it with smaller house houses and laundry hanging out to dry. A naval museum, boat ramps, and the Venetian Arsenal sit among beautiful churches such as St Zaccaria’s, St John, and St. Paul’s Basilica, and the school of San Giorgio degli Schiavoni. To this day it is largely residential: Via Garibaldi, the main street, is bursting with little shops and family run businesses as well as a few market stalls and a barge selling fruit and vegetables at the end of the street. Da Remigio is a favorite offering delicious dishes like spaghetti cooked with a delicate spider crab sauce or succulent grilled razor clams. Corte Sconta offers a nice courtyard for dining under a 100 year old grapevine. It serves traditional Venetian cuisine focusing on seafood. Corte Sconta is a beautiful venue with friendly staff and a sophisticated atmosphere. Guests can enjoy an excellent selection of antipasto and try one of the many wines on their extensive list. Al Covo is a nice sized restaurant featuring two dining rooms each with beautiful art decorating the walls. The establishment is family run and offers a range of Venetian classics that can be eaten at one of their outside tables or in the charming and rustic interior. All of the food is made from fresh local ingredients and is accompanied by one of their 200 labels of wine. Although frequented by tourists the food is quite good. CoVino is a small wine bar of just six tables and is a nice place to relax in an informal setting after a busy day of sightseeing. The menu changes regularly depending on the availability of local and seasonal ingredients. The food is prepared in the open kitchen where guests can watch the chefs at work. Located on a small quiet square, Osteria Ae Sconte is an ideal place to sit back and soak in the events of the day. They offer the option of either a quick bite in the form of traditional Venetian cicchetti or a longer slow meal which could include many hearty pasta dishes. The menu features many daily specials depending on the availability of ingredients.
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DINING IN CASTELLO Osteria Al Portego - At aperitivo time, this place comes alive and the atmosphere is about as authentic as it gets. They take liberties with the cicchetti and offer fried-stuffed olives, wings, and veggies. 6342 A Le Tole - All of the pizzas and pastas are hand-made fresh every day. Try the risotto with quail and garnished with fresh herbs or John Dory with a lemon saffron sauce or the venison with red currants. Luna Sentada situated along a canal where the gondolas travel into the heart of the city is becoming one of the places patronized by Venetians and tourists. The focus is on Mediterranean cuisine with a hint of oriental cuisine. In the summer book a table on the the small square of San Severo. Pane Focacce Molin - A small bakery yet one of the best in Venice. Every morning the smell of fresh baked brioche, pastries and breads linger in the neighborhood. If you love focaccia for breakfast or in the afternoon, this is your place. The shelves become bare quickly here! Bar Pasticceria di Chiusso Pierino - Everything is made here daily including the croutons served with evening cocktails at the bar. You'll find a small array of freshly prepared baked goods here that changes depending on the time of day you arrive. There will be assorted brioche in the morning, pizzete in the afternoon, and pastries all day long. Pasticceria Rosa Salva - Simply sublime pastries in an equally gorgeous environment. Whether you choose to stand at the bar and eat or sit and relax at the tables outdoors, you will not be disappointed with the quality of the pastries and snacks at Rosa Salva. Alle Testiere - Often original and sophisticated food. One of the good recommendations of Castello, and therefore no unpleasant surprises to be found at this restaurant, you can go there with complete confidence, it is very good! Plan about 50 euros per person. Enoteca la Mascareta - A pleasant little wine bar to have a drink and enjoy crostini. After dinner come back and try the grappa.
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DINING IN CASTELLO Built in a former 15th century chapel and only a few steps from Piazza San Marco and the Rialto Bridge is Al Giardinetto da Severino. This beautiful restaurant offers Venetian cuisine with a choice of dining in the Palazzo Zorzi or outside under the vine covered courtyard. The restaurant has a professional and efficient staff who is happy to assist. A rustic and modern restaurant, Trattoria da Remigio is popular with the locals and features a menu of Venetian pastas and seafoods. Customers are guaranteed a delicious, no-frills meal by professionals who are passionate about their work and take food seriously. For dinner service, white table cloths are added. With wood beams, a door on the canal, and candlelight, Ristorante ai Barbacani has a romantic and enchanting atmosphere. Every effort is made to make guests feel welcome and the staff is helpful and willing to answer any question you may have. The menu is comprised mostly of fish based entrees that are served in generous sized portions but there are also several options for vegetarians or meat lovers. (pictured below)
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SESTIERI DORSODURO This area of the Dorsoduro is a quiet neighborhood with shaded squares, serene canals, and picturesque residences. With the newer luxury hotels opening here it is only a matter of time before this area will be over crowded with visitors. Crossing over the Ponte dell’Academia you come across some charming independent boutiques along Piscina Former. The nearby Guggenheim Museum is a fabulous place for the modern art lover of the 20th century. Ca’Macana is where you’ll find the mask shop famous for having created the masks for the Stanley Kubrick film Eyes Wide Shut. There are quite a few mask shops in the area but this one stands out for the quality of its hand made creations. Bar Cantinone Gia Schiavi - This place is located in the nicest area of the Dorsoduro. If you aren't paying attention you will walk right past this tiny place. First and foremost it is a wine shop. - Il Cantinone also serves up some of the best, freshest, and most surprising crostini in Venice. Some small-bites to try include creamed squash with zucchini flowers, truffle cream, and goat cheese with pepper jam. Go there in the early afternoon and put your lunch budget to good use with a big plate of 2 euro crostini and a couple glasses of regional wine! Come evening this place is packed with well dressed Italian men and women drinking wine and eating bargain priced cicchetti. Osteria al Squero - All types of local Venetians can be found in the bars, grazing on cicchetti. Four or five cicchetti will typically replace your dinner — they could be crostini topped with creamy gorgonzola, fig and roasted walnuts or arancini balls. Linger outside, perched beside the canal, overlooking the city’s oldest working gondola yard. Estro Vino E Cucina - Enjoy an aperitivo here in the local institution that has become a gourmet pit stop. They also offer 500 wines by the glass. Spinach, bacon, smoked cheese, and pesto, sandwiched between light, oven-crisp focaccia, is a feast fit for heroes - especially when it’s accessorized with cool tableware from young, local designers.
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