Tiny Restaurants to Cozy Up to This Winter

AUGUST: UPSCALE BAR AND EATERY

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TINY

RESTAURANTS

TO COZY UP

TO THIS

WINTER

BY SEAN DUTSON, TOMMY JULIANO JR & MATT WICK

PHOTOS WINTER CAPLANSON

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When the temperatures dip, come in from the snug nooks with 50 seats or fewer, perfect for a favorites, selected not only for their idyllic char bar and sip from an exceptional wine list; gra tuck into comfort dishes ideal for the season. Ba

FRANCESCA’S WINE BAR AND BISTRO

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cold to these three tiny jewel box restaurants… romantic evening. Our chefs share three of their m, but also their delicious fare. Cozy up to the ze from a small, but mighty, bistro menu; or sk in the warmth at these wintertime winners:

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Elizabeth’s Farmhouse,

75-81 CANAL ST, PUTNAM, CT

In the parking lot of an old mill building, surrounded by warehouses and a lumber yard, is NOT where one would expect to find one of the finest restaurants in the Northeast. Elizabeth’s Farmhouse defies the notion that location is everything in the restaurant world. As the executive chef at a four-diamond hotel and destination restaurant in the heart of Boston’s theater district, finding a favorite restaurant in the parking lot of a mill in Putnam, Connecticut - ten minutes from my home - is a bit surreal.

You don’t “stumble” upon Elizabeth’s. You don’t leave the theater and look up and find Elizabeth’s and decide “oh, let’s try this place.” You GO to Elizabeth’s because a friend or coworker or - in my case - a fellow chef, tells you that you really HAVE to go check it out. So, you go…and you can’t get in. Seriously? This is “the quiet corner,” not Boston or New

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York, but nonetheless, the demand is such that you just don’t drop in…you need a plan. Locals know this and act accordingly; you show up at 5:30 pm, put your name on the list, leave your phone number so the host can text you when a table is about to open up, and head off to enjoy a drink at one of the other more spacious spots in Putnam. It’s a process that, as long as you expect it, actually adds a certain magic to the night. You aren’t merely going to eat; you’re out for an experience.

Why the fuss? To begin with, there are forty-four seats in a very cozy and comfortable room that makes you feel good. As the name implies, the ‘feel’ is that of a farmhouse with the wooden plank floors and country décor, but there is also a sense of understated sophistication. You can just ‘tell’ that what you are about to experience is special. The vibe in

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the room reassures you that the wait is well worth it. The staff is professional and incredibly attentive, but not at all formal. You get a smile and a personal welcome from everyone, from the host to the bus staff. It may surprise you, but after being in the food business for twentysomething years, I get more excited about really good service than I do about really good food. Don’t get me wrong; good food is critical, and Elizabeth’s delivers, but the ‘experience’ of dining out can’t be good without exceptional service and atmosphere. Elizabeth’s achieves on all fronts.

The food is absolutely tremendous. I find the menu has extensive “depth of choice,” meaning that within each category, there are a number of items that appeal to me. There is an unmistakable freshness and wholesomeness to all the dishes. Quality ingredients are

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prepared simply but perfectly. The offerings are creatively comfortable, both familiar and interesting. The portions, seasoning and ingredients are all spot on. Much like the service, the food is not formal, but it is amazingly well done.

When you leave Elizabeth’s and look around, you can’t help but feel a little like waking from a very pleasant dream - one you’ll be anxious to enjoy again soon.

Sean Dutson is Executive Chef of the Revere Hotel Boston Common and its restaurant Rebel’s Guild

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Working nights in New Haven poses a difficult challenge. Where shall you drink and eat after your shift? I mean this in the sense that there is no shortage of fun, unique and delicious options in the city, making the decision that much more daunting. My girlfriend and I carpool to work often, and when we both work in the evening and want to escape somewhere before making the trip back to Middletown, more often than not, we both have the same place in mind.

August Wine Bar lives on Edwards Street, a side street of State Street in the East Rock neighborhood. The entrance is subtle and unassuming from afar, but as you approach, you begin to realize how much attention to detail has gone into designing the space. The moment we walk in and see Andrew Hotis, his wife Michelle and any of their wonderful staff behind the dark wooden bar, we know we’re in a warm and welcoming place. From the antique jukebox that also serves as seating arrangement, to the beautiful glass-paned sliding door of the restroom, you feel that someone here really thought about the guest experience. At only 16 seats, it doesn’t feel like a restaurant; it feels like an extension of their home.

August:

Upscale Bar and Eatery

3 EDWARDS STREET, NEW HAVEN, CT

Andrew and Michelle have put together a fun and diverse beverage program, with classic old-world wines, and more modern, natural varieties. The “by the glass” selection changes often, and is a good mix of familiar wines, and more funky, lesser-known ones. If you’re into learning about wine, Andrew and staff are extremely knowledgeable, and more than happy to educate and tell the stories behind the wines. Wine is their specialty, but don’t sleep on the beer and cider list, especially if the Nomad Brewing “freshie salt and pepper” gose is on the menu. More often than not,

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For drinks, the restaurant has an extensive wine menu and a diverse cocktail list, with regular specials. I enjoyed on my most recent visit, the Applewood cocktail with bourbon, house-made apple shrub, lemon and bitters; a true “Connecticut” Old Fashioned. Sean makes the bread in-house (which is impressive for a tiny restaurant), and it was served with a tasty sage butter. Stand-out dishes are rustic and approachable. My favorites include stuffed mushrooms with pistachio and Parmesan, local carrots roasted with coriander and served with crispy kale and hot garlic butter walnuts, Sean’s version of a classic bouillabaisse, and lastly: house-made ricotta gnocchi with perfectly cooked beef short ribs, spiced demi-glace and cabbage cooked in a mulled red wine.

As a pastry chef, I am snob when it comes to dessert, but the simple apple galette with vanilla ice cream and marzipan crunch couldn’t have been more perfect to compliment the style of such a cozy restaurant. All the dishes evoke feelings of warmth and winter spirit. While it’s not clearly listed, I would highly recommend asking for a tasting menu to truly experience everything that Francesca’s has to offer.

Tommy Juliano Jr is a New Haven native and seasoned culinary professional with many years of experience as pastry chef at notable Connecticut restaurants such as Community Table and ON20, while also being featured on Food Network’s shows, “Sweet Genius” and “Beat Bobby Flay.”

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