c r a f t
b e e r
a n d
l o c a l
fo o d
s p e c i a l
e d i t i o n
12 glorious pages of Nova scotia craft beer content our feature story on one of halifax's and bedford's best loved pizzadestinations
the canteen local discoveries art gallery of Nova scotia
GROWING LOCAL
Conversations with folks from Nova Scotia’s Agricultural and aquacultural Scene
Autumn 2015
a q&a with a local jazz icon
CRAFTY AND ‘CAN’VENIENT!
spindriftbrewing.com 21 Frazee Avenue | Burnside Industrial Park Dartmouth, NS | B3B 1Z4
Contents Issue Number 13, Volume 4 - Spring 2015
Autumn Harvest
ISSUe
Issue Number 16, Volume 4 - Autumn 2015
Conversations with folks from Nova Scotia’s Agricultural and aquacultural Scene
8
44
Our regular selection of new things happening in Halifax.
A neighbourhood pizza place off Larry Uteck Boulevard
LOCAL DISCOVERIES
52
18
48
Investing in a sustainable, local food supply for all Nova Scotians
A must-visit sandwich shop in downtown Dartmouth
Farmworks
44
the canteen
20
52
Conversations with some Stars of Nova Scotia’s Agricultural Scene
Q & A with local musician Mike Cowie
Growing local
16
morris east
man about town
30
54
12 glorious pages of Nova Scotia craft beer content
Bringing art and community together in downtown Halifax
nova scotia craft beer
art gallery of nova scotia
LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Autumn 2015
3
Editor's Message
The State of Local Food
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his issue marks the closing of our fourth year as a magazine, and during these past four years we've witnessed the emergence of our local food and drink scene. But it's not simply a matter of there being an increase in the number of locally owned restaurants, breweries, wineries or distillers. No, there is much more to it than that. What we've witnessed across the board is a significant increase in the number of locally owned businesses who have opened their doors and brought to us some truly amazing products and service experiences, and it's been our pleasure to play our role as a publication in getting the word out on all this amazing activity. That said, there's one area of the local food and drink scene which we have neglected to celebrate, or at least cover in a way that is most deserved, and that would be our agriculture sector. You know, the folks who actually produce the food that many of our restaurants are putting on our plates these days. So, for this issue you are about to read we've gone and done what we've wanted to do for some time now and put our local farmers front and centre. As you read through the pages of this issue, it's important to consider a few facts. On the positive side, we've seen grassroots support of our producers by many, but not all local restaurants, and we've also seen more food filtering onto the shelves of grocers like Pete's and Sobeys. Add to that all the farmers' markets that have seen a real boom, along with micro grocers like Local Source (our first cover), and many, many others. All-in-all, it's pretty cool what we're seeing. On the flipside, we also need to consider that today in Nova Scotia we produce somewhere around 8 per cent of the food we consume. That's a staggeringly low number. What this means is that we are unable to sustain our own existence should the need arise. This is also an issue of economics, for the more we import into our market, the weaker our economy is, which affects us all. But there's more to it than just that. Our farmers face many challenges, some of which we've been able to share in our first-ever feature on local agriculture. These challenges need to be addressed by all parties, including consumers, retailers, government and the producers themselves, and while a lot has and is still being done, we need to do much, much more. In this issue, we've also dedicated a good deal of content space for our much-loved craft beer scene. We've seen so much activity on the beer front in recent years, and it's interesting to note that it's not just about numbers — it's about product quality too. Lots of smashingly good beer to try and enjoy, and our hope is that we've done our job this issue in lighting the way.
Cheers to an even better 2016!
Alexander Henden Owner, editor-in-chief, local connections Halifax
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Issue Number 16, Volume 4 - Autumn 2015
On the Cover The Big Pants
alexander henden Contributing Editors
lola augustine brown lia rinaldo Jordan whitehouse laura oakley Kathleen higgins tiffany thornton angeline maclennan amy savoury Photography
applehead studio riley smith michelle doucette JulĂŠ Malet-Veale Contributing Experts
phil Otto Lindsay burns rodney habib chris dewaal
Special Thanks to
all you folks Closing Note
John p. Rudolph Illustration
Scott macdonald Sales & Sponsorships
Lori cadelli
local connections halifax is a free magazine with a frequency of 5 issues/year. all 30,000 copies of This magazine were printed at tc transcontinental in dartmouth, nova scotia for magazine advertising: advertising@localconnections.ca For all other inquiries: magazine@Localconnections.ca
f LocalConnectionsHalifax l ConnectionsHFX
For our cover story we really wanted to look closer at the local food movement through the lenses of our local farmers, and we did, but we also felt the need to talk about the middle man (in this case middle woman?), as they play an integral role in the health and sustainability of our local food system. Without them, our farmers would in most cases be without customers to sell to while we, the consumer, would be without someone to source the food many of us are putting on our tables each week. In the case of Hana Nelson, our cover girl, we're talking about someone who is doing much more than simply bringing food to our tables, and on page 20 you can read all about her and some of the amazing folks who are the cornerstone of the local food movement. It's a good read and one you don't want to miss out on. So get to it!
Local DISCOVERIES
Studio east delivers big early Often times when new restaurants open up, it takes a few weeks, or in some cases months, to get everything right. This is definitely not the case at newly opened Studio East on Cunard Street, or if it is, we have no idea what's missing. Their website says global cuisine, but so far we're talking about Asian fusion cuisine, at its very best. Stuff like night market lamb sticks, warm sushi, ramen, coconut curry bowls (see above), sticky buns, and a whole lot more, all from a reasonable priced and totally focused menu. Food quality and flavours are at very high levels already, while the service and environment are both warm and welcoming, and not one bit pretentious. As for whether we like it or not, we've been six times already. Nuf said.
studioeastfood.ca
Temple bar opens on barrington Street We knew this was coming for some time now, and today you will find that doors are indeed open at Temple Bar on Barrington Street in downtown Halifax. Located between Chives and 2 Doors Down, the focus is on cocktails and light fare, with special attention being placed on local and seasonal ingredients. The space is warm and casual, and definitely worth checking out.
facebook.com/templebarhfx
fishmongers at the seaport market Around the same time as Sausage Fest 2015, our friends at Getaway Farm launched North Mountain Pie Company. We'd had the opportunity to taste their wares well before the launch, and just loved them. Unless you are celiac, you need these things. Big time.
If you're looking for fresh sustainable seafood and don't already shop at Local Source in the north end, you can check out Afishionado at the Halifax Seaport Market on Saturdays. There's also rumour of another soon-to-be-opened location, which we're hoping to be able to share with you shortly.
northmountainpie.ca
afishionado.ca
getaway farm's new pie shop
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LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Autumn 2015
menu relaunch at Lion & Bright Back in October, our friends at Lion & Bright closed their doors for an entire day to prepare for the relaunch of their new menu. The 'reboot' as they put it wasn't simply the changing of a few things on the menu, but instead a change in approach to dinner service as a whole. With changes now in place, you can still enjoy light fare, but you also now have some options if you want to have a more formal dining experience. For a closer look at some of the new and available plates, have a visit to their website.
lionandbright.com
almost there folks With the crowdfunding campaign in the books, the cats at Battery Park are just about ready to open the doors. We still don't have a firm opening date, but our understanding is that they'll open sometime shortly after Devour! The Food Film Fest, in late November. Stay tuned Halifax, something special is coming to downtown Dartmouth!
batterypark.ca
nscraftbeer.ca/nscbw
Local DISCOVERIES
new Beer soap from pearl & Daisy
pimp your growler
If you, or someone you love, has the craft beer bug and you find yourself looking for something cool to stuff the stocking with these holidays, or simply like to clean yourself in style, Pearl & Daisy now makes beer soap using beer from Gahan House Halifax. The soap is a special edition blend with a malty aroma with notes of honey and lemon, and a touch of oak moss and will be available at Pearl & Daisy's Historic Properties waterfront shop starting mid-November.
It's been a while since we've come across something so frivilous, yet so entirely necessary as these bottle cozies found at Garrison Brewing. The designs are off the rack cray, and strangely, you get the sense that one was designed just for you.
pearlanddaisy.com
garrisonbrewing.com
event tickets selling like hotcakes! Every January this very magazine hosts the Craft Beer & Local Food Celebration, and despite nearly doubling the number of available tickets for 2016, thanks in large part due to the venue change, almost 50% of the available tickets are now spoken for. Full details regarding who the 16 restaurant and 18 brewery partners are, along with our roster for musical entertainment, are now online as well. All that's left is for you to grab those tickets before they're all gone.
localconnections.ca/events
hand drawn halifax It's finally here, and just in time for the holidays. The book is apparently available just about everywhere, including Inkwell Boutique, Atlantic News, and many others. A must-buy this holiday season.
emmafitzgerald.ca
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LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Autumn 2015
2015 – 2016 Season
Musicians in Residence 2015/16
Downtown mural art a stunner After some fuss about the removal of the old Tall Ships mural on Barrington, just off George Street, downtown Halifax got itself one spectacular piece of wall art. A big thank you to the folks at Freak Lunchbox for having the vision and courage to do this. We're certain that countless visitors and locals will be photographing and sharing this wonderful piece of art found in downtown Halifax around the world for years to come.
Violinist Philippe Djokic Pianist Lynn Stodola
Sunday, 10 January
(evening)
7:00 pm – Lilian Piercey Concert Hall
The Djokic Family in Concert
Sunday, 13 March
(evening)
7:00 pm – Lilian Piercey Concert Hall
Seven Strings a Secret Shimon Walt, cello, and friends
Lynn Stodola, piano Philippe Djokic, Marc Djokic and Renaud LaPierre, violins Kerry Kavalo, viola Denise Djokic, cello
Sunday, 10 April
(TBD)
2:00 pm – Lilian Piercey Concert Hall
Classical Music & the Cinema Olivier De Spegelier, piano
Sunday, 24 January
2:00 pm – Lilian Piercey Concert Hall
Winter Warmer
Sunday, 17 April
2:00 pm – Lilian Piercey Concert Hall
Jollimore Trio Jack Chen, flute eileen Walsh, clarinet Jennifer King, piano
Lieder et Canciones Philippe Lebouf, baritone Adam Cicchillitti, guitar
Sunday, 28 February
Sunday, 1 May
Preludes
Season Finale
2:00 pm – Lilian Piercey Concert Hall
2:00 pm – Lilian Piercey Concert Hall Lynn Stodola, piano Philippe Djokic, violin Kerry Kavalo, viola Benjamin Marmen, cello
Luc Therrien, piano
New guide coming to halifax in 2016 After many months of planning and development, we've begun work on the first-ever "Curated Guide to Nova Scotia". As the name suggests, the guide will showcase a hand-selected group of places to eat and drink in Halifax and parts of Nova Scotia, along with a selection of great things to see and do as well. Official release is tentatively sometime in May of 2016.
Adult: $ 30
Senior: $ 20
Student: $ 15
(902) 423-0143 | 6199 Chebucto Rd, Halifax, NS B3L 1K7
l f CeciliaConcerts SEASON SPONSOR
Jules Chamberlain reddoorrealty.ca
| ceciliaconcerts.ca
the story behind the food Illustration by: Scott MacDonald
C h r i s D e Wa a l f getawayfarmbutchershops l meatmongers
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hink back to one of your favourite meals. Perhaps it was a romantic dinner that you poured your heart and soul into. You went out of your way to source the best ingredients. You made everything involved from scratch. It took hours to prepare, and the love of your life was blown away by the effort and care that you put in. Maybe it was learning to make a traditional family recipe from a grandparent or great aunt. You learned how to pick the right ingredients and how to prepare them the way they have been for decades. You heard the stories of how the dish came to be important to your family and how it had been passed on from generation to generation as a rite of passage into adulthood. When I consider the great meals in my own life and hear about those of others, there is a common element that always seems to emerge: regardless of the dish, the ingredients or even the people involved, there always seems to be an element of story. It is the narrative component of the meal that seems to make it memorable, not just the food itself. Human beings hunger for story. Since the dawn of civilization, we have used narratives to help make sense of the world around us. We share ideas through story. We relate to each other through story. We comfort ourselves with story and find hope in the stories of others. Everywhere you look, you can see narrative threads woven together to create the amazing tapestry that is our society. The ubiquity of social media today is a result of this human drive for story. What is Facebook but a new and
fascinating way to participate in the stories of others? We are able to share our own stories with people whom we may never have been able to otherwise. The need for narrative is an inescapable fact of our human existence, and our food plays no small roll in that story. Nova Scotia is ripe with story when it comes to our food, and it is no more evident than at this time of year. We are blessed with a cadre of hardworking local farmers, and the fruits of their labours are showing up everywhere you look. Farmers’ markets across the province are bursting at the seams with local ingredients, and cooks everywhere are enjoying the bounty of our land.
As fantastic as our food is, I would argue that the greatest asset we have as a local food system is the access we have to our story. We can tell the story of our food better than anyone in the country. We have the opportunity to know our producers, know our place and know our food better than anyone. Contrary to much of the developed world, we still have some culture left in our agriculture, and that affords us the privilege of having some of the most meaningful stories in our food. What story are you going to tell this season through your food? The table is set and the larder is stocked. The rest of the story is up to you. â–ˆ
LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Autumn 2015
13
The Donuts Everyone's Talking About.
SANDWICHES & SOUPS 路 FRESH BREAD 路 PASTRY
Getting Results from Sponsorship Marketing
Illustration by: Scott MacDonald
L i n d s a y B u r n s i ca.linkedin.com/in/lindsaybest l lindsaybestbiz
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mall business owners are constantly looking for creative ways to promote their organizations. Sometimes the marketing spend is on promotional items, other times the budget is allocated to media, such as print ads or radio spots. One form of marketing that is gaining popularity for small businesses, and for good reason, is sponsorship. Before signing up for a sponsorship opportunity, consider the following points to help ensure you get the best results.
ALIGNMENT
When choosing any sponsorship, you’ll want to be sure the organization or event will reflect your company’s values and represent your business in the best light. Also be sure that the opportunity being providing gets your brand in front of the right audience. It may take some creative thinking to align your brand with the appropriate organization. For example, a plumbing and heating company may want to
support a local kids’ baseball team, getting their name in front of local families. Or a retailer selling children’s goods may want to support a new parent workshop so they can make an impression on expecting couples.
AFFORDABILITY
Sponsorship opportunities can vary widely in price. You could spend several thousand dollars on a title sponsorship for a special event, or you could invest a few hundred in a community initiative. Regardless of the price tag, be sure you can get a good return on your investment. Clearly define what you wish to achieve with your sponsorship, and outline a way to measure the dollars you spend. Don’t be afraid to negotiate the benefits included in a sponsorship package. This will help you get the best results for your money.
ACTIVATION
Though logo placement is important, sponsorship can go far beyond your
logo on a t-shirt, website or screen. One of the best ways to activate your sponsorship is to send your best people to meet the audience you have purchased face time with. Networking is an incredibly powerful business tool and should be used strategically for sponsorship activation. You could host an end-of-season barbecue for the kids’ baseball team, introduce a speaker at a local luncheon or request a booth to showcase your products and services at a community event. Mingle, chat and follow up so you can develop potential clients for your business. Consider offering your audience an exclusive takeaway item, such as a pen, water bottle, product sample or discount on a future purchase. Be careful with this form of activation, however, as the cost can creep up and take the opportunity out of scope for your business. All in all, you get what you put in, so make sure the opportunity fits your needs and that you are highly engaged in the whole experience. █
LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Autumn 2015
15
‘TIS THE
SEASON PAIR IT WITH BENJAMIN BRIDGE
benjaminbridge.com
A Culture of Disruption Illustration by: Scott MacDonald
P h i l O t t o i ca.linkedin.com/in/philotto l brandguy
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he digital era is providing more opportunity than ever before for market disruptors. And now, even original disruptors like Netflix, Facebook, Airbnb, eBay and Uber are finding themselves close to mainstream and under attack by upstarts, each with an even better defined purpose and promise. Some estimates suggest that 40 per cent of Fortune 500 businesses will not exist in 10 years because of their failure to adapt to the digital era. Business leaders bracing for disruption are shifting their corporate cultures to empower their people to innovate. They are staying nimble and agile and ready to react in a moment’s notice. But how do you change culture within an organization to embrace innovation? Strong corporate cultures are linked to environments that enable employees to understand what is expected of them. But culture is not something you can mandate — it has to be authentic. The question is not whether your organization has a corporate culture, but rather what kind it has. One that works for you or one that works against you. One that is established by design or one that just happens. One that is clear and well defined by the organization or one that is vague and open to individual interpretation. Corporate reputation, an external brand, is shaped by corporate culture, an internal brand. Internal brand is an organization’s culture. Culture is “the way we do things around here.” It is a set of behaviours that is common
knowledge among employees. It defines why it does what it does — the organization’s purpose. A robust internal brand that is real and authentic provides a foundation for driving principles, goals and objectives that align with the business strategy. It is about driving momentum. Momentum starts with people understanding their role in delivering on the brand’s purpose. And every employee wants to believe their contributions are absolutely essential to the success of their organization’s purpose. There are common characteristics among organizations that have created a culture of innovative disruption.
Their corporate handbook has few rules, keeping it simple and creating an environment for success rather than trying to control it with complicated processes. They focus on corporate values and hire, fire, promote and reward based on how well their employees live the values. They focus on great work over long hours. They are goal oriented and discuss corporate goals internally on a regular basis. Disruption is how companies outdo the competition. It is how startups overthrow long established brands. And corporate cultures that foster disruption and innovation will consistently lead the pack. █
LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Autumn 2015
17
Our Community
FarmWorks Investment Co-operative Article by: Jordan Whitehouse · Photo: Michelle Doucette
Investing in a sustainable, local food supply for all Nova Scotians
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hen Linda Best moved back to the Annapolis Valley in 2002, she began seeing exactly what a 70 per cent decrease in the number of Nova Scotia farms since 1961 meant: aging farmers, an inability to sell farms and a lack of local, healthy food for consumers. “And I started realizing that I was part of the problem when I went to the large stores and bought whatever from wherever.” Fast forward to June 2009 and one possible solution. At a talk called “Investing Close to Home,” Best, who grew up on a farm in the Valley and became a medical researcher, heard about community economic development investment funds (CEDIFs), which are funds meant for people in a community
to pool their money and invest in local businesses. She was hooked by the idea, and by the spring of 2012 she and a few friends launched their own CEDIF, FarmWorks Investment Co-operative. As of mid-October 2015, FarmWorks’ 248 shareholders had loaned $1.116 million to 45 Nova Scotian farmers, restaurants, grocers and other businesses that support local agriculture. Loans, between $5,000 and $25,000, have gone to businesses like Big Spruce Brewing, which used its $25,000 loan to secure funding from larger lenders; Getaway Farm, to help buy Highland Drive Storehouse in Halifax; and The Port Grocer in Port Medway, which went from one employee to four full-time and five part-time employees with the help of
LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Autumn 2015
a FarmWorks loan. “We knew that if we are going to start fixing our health and economic issues, we have to have better food and people have to have jobs,” says Best, of FarmWorks’ genesis. “And we realized that a fund that enables people to invest in businesses right here, right across the food chain, would provide jobs and allow people to afford healthy food.” According to a survey conducted for the co-op, between May 2012 and December 2013, 20 full-time and 6 part-time jobs were created as a direct result of FarmWorks’ loans (more when you include jobs held by the business owners). They’ll have an update on those numbers next year, but Best “can confidently say” that in total, FarmWorks
has helped to maintain or create between 100 and 150 jobs. One business that’s felt the direct impact of FarmWorks help is Fruition, which has been producing and selling nutritious raw foods using local, organic ingredients from the Seaport Farmers’ Market since 2011 (they now have a second location at 6389 Coburg Road in Halifax as well). In 2013, co-owners Jessie Doyle Seth Graham decided to expand the business, moving to a storefront location at the market that would have a bigger kitchen, require more equipment, more staff and a higher rent. To take that step, they needed an increase in cash flow, and so they asked for — and received — an $8,000 loan from FarmWorks. They went to the co-operative, says Doyle, not just because they needed a loan but because they share similar values with FarmWorks. “Seth and I are both really passionate about local food, and we structure our business so that we can purchase from local farmers as much as possible. So in terms of the motivations for going with FarmWorks, we were passionate about what FarmWorks was doing — supporting local food right here in Nova Scotia.” They also found that compared to working with larger lenders, the experience of working with FarmWorks was quite different (read: more positive). “They’re very community minded, very warm and welcoming and accepting,” says Doyle. “They have a lot of people with wisdom and experience on the board, and they definitely always made it known to us that they were there for us should we need them, should we have any questions.” That mentoring component is no accident, by the way. It’s built right into FarmWorks’ objectives. “We tell them when we hand over that cheque, ‘Don’t think that you’re ever going to get rid of us,’” says Best. “We have a number of businesses that are smaller, not exactly sure how to go about it; there are lots of questions for them. And so between our directors and advisors and anybody else if we need to find somebody else, we will do that. And that starts in many cases as soon as they apply for a loan.” The result of that financial support and mentorship is clear in the success of the businesses FarmWorks has invested in and the returns investors are seeing, which will amount to about twice one’s investment over fifteen years when you factor in tax credits and dividends, says Best. It’s also clear that it’s resulting in one, albeit small, answer to those agricultural, health and economic woes Best saw when she moved back to the Valley in 2002. “We know about the challenges in Nova Scotia,” she says. “We know the government doesn’t have a lot of money to do the things they might otherwise do, but we can, in fact, do for ourselves. And that’s what FarmWorks is about: encouraging people to do for themselves.”
You can find more information on FarmWorks Community Economic Development Investment Fund online by visiting their website at: farmworks.ca
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Live at the Market:
Farm to Table Market Fresh!
WWW.HALIFAXFARMERSMARKET.COM
Open Monday to Friday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturday 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. & Sunday 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Cover STORY
Article by: Lola Augustine Brown · Photo: Applehead Studio and Julé Malet-Veale
Conversations with folks from Nova Scotia’s agricultural and aquacultural scene
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ova Scotians sure do love local. We embrace our craft brewers, shop at farmers’ markets and are proud of the authentic products created right here in our home province. This is of course a wonderful thing. To the casual observer who shops at the Seaport Market it might seem like agriculture is thriving in our fair province. Truth is, it isn’t. We only produce just over 8 per cent of the food consumed in Nova Scotia, which means we are actually pretty food insecure. The Nova Scotia Federation of Agriculture states that 15 years ago we were producing 15 per cent of the food we consumed. Farming is hard, no doubt, and there are certain federal and provincial policies that have made it harder, if not impossible, for certain types of farming to thrive here, as well as other problems that come with doing business here, such as the lack of high speed internet in some areas and high transportation costs. However, despite all this we have producers that are doing fantastically well here. Several of these breakout stars of the local agricultural scene are innovators, while others are just so damn good at what they do there’s no reason to deviate from the approaches that give them solid results year after year. In this bountiful province, there’s room to try new things or build on time-tested success, provided you can work in the confines of a somewhat broken system and get your product where it
LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Autumn 2015
needs to be. We talked with five stars from the Nova Scotian agricultural scene to hear how they make it work here and the challenges they face.
Hana Nelson, Afishionado Fishmongers After completing a master’s degree in agri-ecology, the ecology of food systems, in Europe, Hana Nelson moved back here and started working in marketing for Select Nova Scotia. One of the organization’s mandates was to market for the fisheries, but Nelson found that side of things lacking in comparison to how much attention other industries in the province were given. “We are making so much progress on farming issues, but there was not really anywhere to call or anyone that was representing our product, despite the fact that this is what we’re known for — exporting really wonderful fish,” says Nelson. When the Miss Ally fishing boat sank off the coast of Nova Scotia’s south shore in February 2013, Nelson started to think deeper on this issue. “Why aren’t we talking about those people who risk their lives doing what they do? Why aren’t we telling
their stories? Why aren’t we able to celebrate and understand a bit more in the place where they come from.? That connected the dots for me. I thought, ‘Somebody really has to be doing this,’” she says. Knowing that “somebody” had to be her, Nelson set up Afishionado Fishmongers. She sells direct to the public through Local Source Market and from her refrigerated truck at the Seaport Farmers’ Market. She also supplies restaurants in Halifax with locally and sustainably sourced fish and seafood. Education is an important part of what she does, whether that be educating the public about all the wonderful products she brings to them (because Nova Scotians, Nelson says, have fallen out of the habit of eating much seafood) or the sustainability measures that she employs in her business (following the Ocean Wise sustainability guidelines where possible, or taking advice from the Ecology Action Centre and scientific studies when those standards aren’t in place, as is often the case on the east coast). To state the blatantly obvious, Nelson doesn’t look like your typical fishmonger. “The attention I get from being a woman doing this gives me more buying power,” she says. “There are some funny comments from the older fishermen, but I find it entertaining.” Nelson works hard to build trust with the public and those she procures fish from. “If you go to rural communities, a lot of people know a fisherman and there’s a lot of seafood that passes through hands for
Nova Scotia
Farmers! Hutten Family Farm Holdanca Farm Highland Farm Boates Farm Websters Farm Seafoam Lavender Farm Cossman and Whidden Honey & many more.
Cover STORY cash. They’ll say to me, ‘I have a guy who gets me haddock and I’ll buy a hundred pounds of it when it’s in season.’ So from that perspective, people who have that connection have a lack of trust in buying it from anyone else.” As for the fishermen, having a trusted person to shift their product is essential. “We’re dealing in crazy volumes,” says Nelson. “It’s not feasible to think that a fisherman is going to go to a farmers’ market with their catch, they’re just not going to sell enough of one particular species, so it is really important to have a middle man that you can trust to represent you.” Nelson works hard to source products that are made here but often just get shipped out of province and get them into Halifax restaurants. Take, for example, the “beautiful” crab and lobster meat that she has found coming out of a fishing coop in Cape Breton. “In order to get the product that I want to bring to Halifax, I have to intercept their 52-foot tractor trailer in Truro as it is leaving to take the product to Boston,” she says. Talking to Nelson, it’s obvious that she loves what she does and that she is a happy evangelist for the industry here. But for a number of reasons, it isn’t an easy role to take on. “Regulations in our province are ridiculous,” she says. “One definite reason that we don’t have more fishmongers like me is that the regulations are too prohibitive. It has taken me more than a year to figure out what I have to do to be at the farmers’ market. These same regulations also force people to sell more of their fish for cash.” Regulations dictate that Nelson cannot buy in bulk directly from a fisherman and take the product to a restaurant across town; only registered fish plants can do that. “The cost of entry to become a registered fish plant is ridiculous. I’m never going to do
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LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Autumn 2015
that. And because the cod fisheries put a moratorium on ground fish processing licenses, I can’t even get a license to process ground fish if I were to be able to do that myself,” she says “It is very much an industry that supports the historic players.” Part of the issue here is that the province defers to the federal regulatory body for anything fish related. “Unlike meat, where there’s a provincial regulatory system, you raise a beef cow here, you kill it here, you sell it here; you don’t have to go to the federal standard. For fish, everything goes to federal standards,” she explains, “and these standards reflect where the industry was 50 years ago — we’re no longer doing that much processing in Nova Scotia.” Despite this, Nelson intends to keep growing her business and wants to keep raising the profile of our local, sustainable seafood right here in Halifax. “My regular customers and suppliers are so wonderful, everyone wants to see someone like me treating their products like this and to know that they’re getting really high quality fish, so it’s been a lot of fun,” she says. “As long as they let me grow how I want to grow, this will stay fun. There’s a lot of risk involved, though.”
Evelyn Ernst, Terra Beata Cranberry Farm The original plan for David and Evelyn Ernst was to grow cranberries and sell them to a local packer. It took three years to get their first crop, and when they did, the packers weren’t interested. “We had to rethink our strategy,” says Evelyn. Part of that strategy required buying a bunch of freezers from the newspaper classified ads so that they could store the berries and sell them at farmers’ markets. Another part involved educating people about different ways of using the berries that weren’t just Thanksgiving related. “I’d take the berries to craft markets with samples of chutneys, along with recipe cards. But people didn’t want the recipes, they wanted the finished product,” explains Ernst. “Then we kept getting asked for juice, so we started producing a pure juice, with no sugar. Same with dried cranberries.” These days, 10 per cent of Terra Beata’s cranberries go into their retail products, while the rest are sold through the commodities market. They’ve become so good at what they do that not only are they able sell all the cranberries that they produce, but they also take cranberries from 15 other farms around the province, shifting a total of five million pounds of cranberries a year. The farm employs 25 people, and the Ernsts are planning to grow substantially over the next few years. Evelyn Ernst says that they’d like to get up to 10 million pounds of cranberries a year, because then they could optimize storage costs and run more efficiently. Another goal they’d like to reach is to grow the juice and dried berry part of the operations, because
there’s a much better price for those products than there is for the berries themselves. “We’d like that to be 50 per cent of the business, as it will bring greater prices for our farmers, generate more employment and bring more benefit to our community,” she says. Being located in Nova Scotia has given Terra Beata a competitive edge over cranberry farms in other provinces and in the U.S. “We have a shipping advantage — it is only seven days from Halifax to Europe. And although Europeans are very familiar with cranberries, no one is growing them commercially over there,” says Ernst, who just returned from Cologne, Germany, where she was showcasing her products at an international food show. The Ernsts have definitely faced a few issues running a business like theirs in Nova Scotia. For starters, there’s no high-speed internet where they are located, which makes everything very difficult. There’s also no three-phase power, which is necessary to run some of the machinery they use on the farm. Fortunately, David’s engineering background means that he has the skills to make the machines work on the existing power supply. “The business is a lot different from what we’d intended, and I often wonder how we’ll get everything done, because we’re pulled in so many different directions,” says Evelyn. Despite this, they wouldn’t want to be living and working anywhere else. “We’ve had many lucky things happen to us along the way. Things may not always go smoothly every day, but we’ve been fortunate.”
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Cover STORY
Margie Lamb, Meadowbrook Meat Market In the 27 years since they opened Meadowbrook Meat Market as a tiny shop on their farm, Jimmie and Margie Lamb have seen many changes in the hog farming industry. While many other producers of pork in this province have been forced out of the industry due to legislative changes and the closure of our only processing plant, they’ve managed to thrive here by changing the way that they do things. They started out with the intention of selling the odd side of pork, and then they started making sausage and adding other products to their line-up. They were doing well enough. About nine years ago, however, when the processing plant left and there were issues with disease across the province, the Lambs decided to completely change how they were doing things in order to create a better product that would be healthier for both their customers and their animals. “Our first challenge was to go antibiotic free, and we were looking at other ways to differentiate ourselves. We decided to go for an all grain feed that would give our animals a content source of omega three and six. Our animals are on that feed as soon as they’re weaned and until they go to market,” says Lamb. The changes that they made were well received, bringing in
many new customers and pleasing those who had always loved what they did. “We have customers that come regularly from as far as Yarmouth and the South Shore, and lots from Halifax. We tell people that we have an outlet at Alderney Landing, but they’ll tell us that they like to come here.” All the hogs raised at Meadowbrook are processed right there and sold to customers through their store, their outlet at Alderney Landing or the various supportive restaurants and outlets that carry their products as a point of pride. “We have people that are very committed to local, such as White Point Beach Resort, who use our bacon, or The Wooden Monkey, and they make it work,” says Lamb. “We know our products are never going to be the cheapest, but those businesses are committed to helping sustain business in Nova Scotia. That’s what we need to see more of in order for businesses here to thrive, a commitment to local.” Besides the fact that there are no processors in Nova Scotia anymore, meaning that any pork they couldn’t process themselves would need to be shipped to Ontario, there are various other challenges attached to doing business here. Transportation costs are a big issue for Meadowbrook, as is finding suppliers for things like packaging (which used to be produced here, but the manufacturer closed, like many other big businesses in recent years) that needs to be shipped from out of province. “The distance from our customers and suppliers is challenging to us,” says Lamb. Frankly, it is cheaper for producers in other provinces to bring their pork here and sell it than it is for local producers. “Bigger companies that come in from outside Nova Scotia can offer quantity discounts,” says Lamb, but warns that those companies aren’t offering us their best quality pork. “Nova Scotia is a dumping ground, a small province at the end of the food chain. If I’m butchering in Ontario, my best cuts are going to go to the closest market. For some it’s going to be about price, but for others it’s about quality.” Meadowbrook relies on the people who care about quality, and thankfully there are plenty of them here.
Michelle Munroe, Sober Island Oysters Just over 10 years ago, Trevor Munroe told his wife Michelle that he wanted them to move from Halifax to the Eastern Shore and start an oyster farm in the salt-water lake on property his parents owned. At the time, she thought he was crazy. “We’d seen mussels and oysters in the lake over the years we’d been going there, and my husband one night saw that oysters were
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selling for 89 cents apiece in the supermarket and figured there could be serious money in this. He came home that night and told me we were going to be oyster farmers,” says Munroe, who responded with an incredulous “no way.” “We knew nothing about aquaculture. And there was no way I was moving to the country.” The more research they did, however, the more feasible it sounded, so they ditched their great jobs with full pensions and benefits in the city, and moved into an old travel trailer with two
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small kids for their first summer down there to see whether they could do this. Turns out they could, so they sold their house and put every cent from the sale into the oyster farm. Their first oyster seeds went into the lake in 2008, and their first sales were in 2011. Five years on, oysters from the business are selling really well and the Munroes are a Nova Scotian agricultural success story. “Every year it got a little bit better, and it is finally starting to pay off,” she says. “I feel like this is what we were meant to do.” At the time of talking with Munroe, they had 4.3 million oysters in the water. Last year they harvested some 90,000 oysters, and this year that figure will be closer to 220,000, growing to 350,000 next year. “These are predictions, because you do have some losses, but by 2018 we hope to be harvesting 750,000 oysters per year,” says Munroe. Shifting those quantities is unlikely to ever be a problem. “Right now we’re at about 300 per cent demand of what we can supply. It’s crazy. We get five to ten calls a week from people looking for oysters. Right
PICTURED LEFT Margie Lamb of Meadowbrook Meat Market ABOVE Trevor and Michelle Munroe of Sober Island Oysters
310 Slayter Road, Gaspereau, Nova Scotia (902) 542-8463 www.lacadievineyards.ca
Cover STORY now we ship to Toronto, Montreal and St John’s, and next year we hope to go to Calgary, New York and Boston. We may also ship to Asia once we get quantities up.” Sober Island Oysters has become a recognizable name in a really short amount of time, and this is no happy accident. The Munroes have been clever marketers from the get-go. Before they were ready to start selling their wares proper, they set up a travelling oyster bar that they’d bring to corporate events, festivals and weddings. “We got to know so many people through doing this, and that’s really helped us get to where we are,” she says. Plus, once people sampled their excellent oysters, they wanted more and knew to ask for them by name. A great relationship with the organizers of Devour, Wolfville’s annual food film festival, has also led to some interesting opportunities, including meeting with Chef Chuck Hughes and setting up an oyster bar at the opening of his documentary, Shuckers, at the festival, and then flying down to Los Angeles to showcase their product at a Devour event there, too. In L.A. they met the crew from the web series Tastemade, who then got in touch to bring a Toronto chef to the Meadowbrook farm to film for the day. “That was just awesome,” she says. “We wanted to be a part of big things like this because we wanted to market the name, and we’ve done that pretty well.” Setting up a business such as this in our province obviously comes with a huge amount of risk, but Munroe says they have always been risk-takers and knew it was necessary in order to move forward. Setting up their farm took time, mainly because securing the leases was such a long process. “There are so many agencies that come into play, including fisheries and the department of agriculture, and of course the water had to be tested; everybody was involved,” says Munroe. During that time, there was lots of money going out, but not much coming
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in. “There were a couple of winters where we were just broke, but we just laughed about it.”
Tom Cosman, Cosman and Whidden Honey When Tom Cosman was young he read a book about bees, and it was then, he says, that the idea of beekeeping caught his fancy. “Before I even had a hive I knew this was what I wanted to do with my life, and I’m sure everyone thought I was crazy. I was a suburban boy from Montreal, but my wife had faith in me and supported me to pour all our money into it when we were struggling truck drivers.” That was back in 1979, and bees turned out to be a really great idea for the couple. “We’ve managed to make a living from it. Marketing honey has never been a problem, we always sell everything we produce.” While Nova Scotia might not give the huge yields of honey that beekeepers on the prairies tend to get, this is a great province to be a beekeeper for one specific reason: There’s a strong demand for the pollinating capabilities of bees on blueberry farms. “For most beekeepers in Nova Scotia, that’s their main source of income — pollination rental,” says Cosman. The number of hives Cosman has at any one time fluctuates, but he says that at their peak this year they had more than 1700 hives on 60 farms. The bees don’t mind where they’re put, and adapt to whatever surroundings they are placed in. “You move them at night and the next morning they just go to work like they’ve never been moved at all,” he says. There are few barriers to succeeding as a beekeeper in Nova Scotia. The government here has programs that encourage beekeeping because of the growing blueberry industry. They
want more hives in the province. Colony collapse isn’t an issue that Cosman has ever come across, though he has had issues with bloodsucking mites that have killed off large numbers of bees. “It’s heartbreaking and scary when that happens because this is my livelihood. But I’ve been through it quite a few times now, so I know we’ll bounce back,” he says. Cosman is very happy that he is able to live this life he has created. “I do love it. I like every day. It’s a profession and a business, but it’s fun,” he says. “It changes with the seasons. Right now we’re extracting honey through the day, and throughout November we’ll be tucking the bees in and wrapping them up and tucking insulation over them. Come spring we’ll make sure the queens are okay and they’ve got enough to eat. It’s like husbandry of any animal, always something to do.” █
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Our Community
Halifax Seaport Farmers’ Market at 265 Years
Article by: Jordan Whitehouse
We go inside the oldest, continuously operating farmers market on the continent to find out what that history means for vendors, customers and the city
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t’s a Saturday October morning at the Seaport Farmers’ Market and the place is packed for a party celebrating the bazaar’s 265 years in existence. Bouncy castles, cake, pumpkin-carving, live music — it’s all here. Inside the north door, there’s a room with a heading along a wall that reads “My Market Memory,” and underneath photos of the market’s past: a few of the 13 previous locations, a few of smiling customers and one of Mary Ann LaPierre, whose family has been making the trek from East Preston to the Halifax Farmers’ Market to sell fresh produce and eggs for over 120 years.
Today LaPierre is just around the corner, standing in front of fresh beans, carrots and cucumbers. She has been coming to the market since she was four, her reasons pretty simple: “I like meeting the people and they’re happy to have us. I’ve met so many people through the years — Prince Charles, Roberta Bondar, but just ordinary people, too. It’s just so interesting to talk to so many, exchange ideas, exchange thoughts.” The historical connections people like LaPierre bring are a big part of the soul of this place, says the market’s executive director, Julie Chaisson, and the relationships they build with customers
LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Autumn 2015
are what make a farmers’ market different from just any other retail experience. “The connection between the person who’s buying and the person who’s selling, those relationships are so important. In society, sometimes we’ve moved away from them, but people still cling to them. That’s why we tell new vendors not to underestimate that connection and not to get discouraged if someone doesn’t buy from them right away. It takes time to build up that trust.” It’s a lesson all too familiar to Mary Ellen McMurtry, who’s down at the south end of the building today selling her paintings of the changing Halifax
skyline. She’s been here for a year and a half. “Customers would often come up, we would talk for a while and they’d say, ‘We’ll be back.’ And I thought, Oh my gosh, I can’t live on ‘we’ll be back.’ But some of the vendors who’ve been here seven or eight years told me, ‘If they say they’re going to be back, they’ll back.’ And they did come back, and I couldn’t believe it.” Still, even when a vendor can establish strong, sometimes decades-long relationships with customers that doesn’t necessarily mean they can completely rely on the market to stay afloat. Take Seafoam Lavender, for example, a family-operated business that creates all-natural culinary, household and skincare products and sells them from a booth near the north end seven days a week. When they started at the brewery market about six years ago, they thought the market would account for the vast majority of their sales. They quickly realized, however, that wouldn’t be the case, and today market sales make up about 30 per cent of the business. So why stay, particularly every day of the week? “Because we believe in what goes on here,” says Seafoam Lavender’s coowner Dave Belt. “It’s an honour, a privilege, to be a part of this wonderful body of farmers, and what the market offers is an opportunity for us to make direct contact with the public, and that’s such a tremendous opportunity.” Tremendous, he adds, because it does lead to sales made outside the walls of the market, but also because building those relationships in the unique way the market allows fosters a strong sense of community. Chaisson agrees. “If you want to know the heart and character of a city, you go to the market because you’ll see the diversity, the ethnicity, the people, the faces. And so that’s what we’re celebrating here at 265 years: those connections, that people have been buying local for 265 years, that people have been visiting each other for a period of over 265 years, that they’ve grown up together.” It’s the afternoon now, and over by the main entrance is a giant cake with “Thank You For Supporting Local for 265 Years” written in orange icing on top. Mary Ann LaPierre is given a knife and slices into it with a crowd of smiling older folks, young kids, parents and teens looking on. Looking around, it seems clear what people like LaPierre, who have a history with the market, bring to this place, but I ask her anyway. “People like hearing about the history and they like knowing you’ve been here quite a while. They feel more secure knowing it’s not just some fly-by-night type of thing, seeing you’re here every week. So constancy and security, that’s what it is.” █
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Nova Scotia CRAFT BEER
The State of Nova Scotia Craft Beer
Article by: Lola Augustine Brown
Something great's happening right here in our own provinc
N
ova Scotia is an absolutely fantastic place to be right now if you’re a craft beer lover. Not only do we have a proliferation of new breweries in our fair province, with more opening all the time, but we also have societies set up to encourage the drinking of these brews. And we had our first Craft Beer Week in May of this year. Once upon a time, though, believe it or not, there was no such thing as craft beer in Halifax. Heck, until 30 years ago there wasn’t even much craft beer in Canada.
The Beginning
Kevin Keefe is the godfather of the Halifax craft beer scene. In 1985, Keefe brought craft beer here when he started Granite Brewery out of Ginger’s Tavern, the pub he owned with his brother on Hollis Street. (Granite later moved to The Henry House and eventually to Stairs Street in the north end where Keefe operates it as a standalone microbrewery. It is no longer attached to a pub.) Keefe was an innovator, and says that it took some time to convince drinkers here to venture beyond the mass-produced beers that they were used to. Keefe started out as a carpenter before moving into the hospitality industry, and missed that deep sense of satisfaction that comes from actually creating something. He read about a brewpub that was operating in Vancouver and wanted to do something similar here. Wanting to do it properly, Keefe learned how to make real English-style ales at the Ringwood Brewery in
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Hampshire, England, and then brought that knowledge home and started brewing his own beer. Once made, he needed to convince people to try it. People here were used to drinking pale ales, and then Keefe presented them with beers that they just had no idea what to make of. There was a strong, old-fashioned, English-style ale that he named Peculiar and a bitter, both of which he had a hard time convincing people to try at first. But try they did, and Keefe converted people to craft beer lovers, paving the way for the wonderful scene that we have today.
Next Generation
For a while, Granite was the only brewery in town. Then, in 1997 two more breweries set up shop, Garrison and Propeller. Both of these breweries have done plenty for the industry besides making great beers that win national and international awards. The owners of Garrison and Propeller were able to push the craft beer scene further by getting their products into the NSLC and on tap in local bars and restaurants. Initially, this wasn’t easy, but their eventual success made it possible for our Nova Scotian brewers to get their products in front of bigger markets, growing the industry into one that has created jobs and spurred growth. Nowadays, the NSLC is very supportive of our locally made brews, giving over plenty of shelf space to beers from all over our province that consumers might never otherwise encounter.
#NSCRAFTBEER MAKING AN IMPACT
est. 1985 The New Generation
There’s been a boom in craft brewing in Nova Scotia of late. We have more than 20 breweries located all over the province, from Big Spruce Brewing and the Breton Brewing Co. in Cape Breton, to Boxing Rock in Shelburne, to Hell Bay in Liverpool, and so on. These breweries produce more than 200 different beers, each with a real variance in styles and brewing techniques. The personalities behind these beers are as interesting as the products they are putting out. We’ve got hipster brewers and traditionalists and a fair few women in the industry here too. Our breweries are experimenting with flavours and bringing local inspiration into their products. Consider also the many bars and restaurants in our city that are fully supportive and proud to showcase craft brewing, such as the incredibly popular Stillwell, which showcases many local brews both in bottles and on tap. Stillwell was able to push these beers in their successful pop-up beer garden on the waterfront this summer too, capitalizing on the growing beer tourism market that sees people traveling to cities just for the beer, which is of course an awesome reason to travel anywhere. For beer lovers, the time is now and the place is Halifax. Whatever you’re into and whatever you want to try, in all likelihood you can get it here. And if you can’t get it here yet, just hold tight — there’s bound to be another new brewery soon, and maybe they’ll be serving up whatever it is you think this scene is missing. █
25+
Local Breweries
200+ Craft Beers
300+ Local Jobs
LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Autumn 2015
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Nova Scotia CRAFT BEER
Intro by : Alexander Henden
It's time to explore the depth of Nova Scotia's craft beer scene
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he secret to becoming a seasoned craft beer drinker really isn't much of a secret. It's a simple process actually. You simply try beers and you either like them or you don't, but the key is to keep trying new ones. What happens if you stay the course is your palette becomes more sophisticated, and over time you start to appreciate beer much more and even start liking some of the beers you enjoyed the least when you first started out. It's a natural process, not unlike learning to enjoy food, or coffee, or wine, or just about anything. Heck, is there any example of anything in life where we are experts without any tangible experience experience? The answer of course is no. With this is mind, we thought we'd take the time to introduce you to many of our province's local craft
LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Autumn 2015
breweries. Most make a number different styles, and every single one is worth trying at least once. Many are also worth revisiting again once your palette awakens. So, on the following pages, we've listed 17 local brewers who, between them, brew 179 unique brews. The truth is we've shortchanged you a little because there are actually even more beers made from each of these brewers. Regardless, it's a huge opportunity and adventure that awaits. You only need to make a trip to your local NSLC, privately owned retailer, restaurant, brewpub, brewery, or craft beer event to discover the wonderful world of Nova Scotia craft beer. It's a choose-your-own-adveture scenario, and you are in the driver's seat. Which beer will be the next one you give a try? And will you like it? â–ˆ
Big Spruce Brewing Yankee Line Rd., Nyanza
Big Spruce Brewing brews only unfiltered, unpasteurized, unbelievably good beer. Their on-farm brewery in Nyanza is the best place to get a pint or growler of our beer. You can also find Big Spruce at the Cape Breton Farmers' Market and on a Nova Scotian tap near you.
Years in business: 2.5 Beers produced: 11 (listed below) Kitchen Party Pale Ale, Cereal Killer Oatmeal Stout, Regatta Red Irish Red Ale, Tim's Dirty American IPA, Bitter Get'er India Black IPA, Silver Tart Sour Rasberry Wheat, Gimme Citra, Gimme Nelson, Spruce Bringstein German Amber Ale, Smokin' Jack It, Smoked Pumpkin Ale, and Tip of the Spear Spruce Tip Ale
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f BigSpruceBrewing L BigSpruceBrew I bigsprucebrewing official Website: bigspruce.ca
Boxing Rock Brewing Company 78 Ohio Rd., Shelburne
Trained as engineers, they love beer for the challenge of designing a good one as much as for the pleasure of drinking it. That’s why they got into brewing in the first place. To them, brewing is a test of wits, innovation and technology, and the practice of an ageold craft steeped in tradition and folklore. Sometimes it can be difficult to pin their beers down to a particular style - they make beers that they enjoy drinking, they push the limits of beer styles and their beers tend to be bold, full of flavour and distinctive.
Years in business: 2.5 Beers produced: 16 (listed below) Hunky Dory Pale Ale, Temptation Red Ale, Crafty Jack English Ale, The Vicar’s Cross Double IPA, Sessionista Bold Session Ale, Unobtanium Intrepid Amber Ale, Bottle Blonde Blonde Rye Ale, The Next Chapter Rye IPA. Wild Axe Pilsener, Many Hands Wet Hopped Harvest Ale (North Brewing Collaboration), The Darkness Cascadian Dark Ale, U-889 Russian Imperial Stout, Sunken Ledge Porter, The Alewife’s Revenge Cranberry Wheat Ale, Cinnamon Spin Robust Porter, and Kerfuffle American Pale Ale
f boxingrock L boxingrockbeer I boxingrock official Website: boxingrock.ca
Breton Brewing Co. 364 Keltic Dr., Sydney
Located on the majestic island of Cape Breton, Breton Brewing Co. crafts natural, unfiltered and preservative-free ales & lagers. Passion cascades in every pour from this locally owned and operated craft brewery. Crafted by Passion!
Years in business: 0.3 Beers produced: 4 (listed below) Sons of Hector, Black Angus IPA, Stirling, Celtic Colours Maple Lager
f bretonbrewing L bretonbrewing I bretonbrewing official Website: bretonbrewing.ca
7pm @ The Halifax Marriott Harbourfront
CRAFT BEER
14 OF NOVA SCOTIA’S BEST CRAFT BREWERIES
LOCAL FOOD
A COLLECTION OF THE BEST RESTAURANTS
DELICIOUS CIDER LIVE MUSIC + MORE!
2 NS CIDER MAKERS
THE MIKE COWIE TRIO PLUS OTHER ARTISTS
YOU ALSO GET A 16 OZ. BELGIAN-STYLE TAKE-HOME GLASS
Tickets Available in Limited Quantity ! A L L - I N C L U S I V E T I C K E T S A R E AVA I L A B L E AT:
localconnections.ca/events Must be of legal drinking age to attend this event. No exceptions.
Nova Scotia CRAFT BEER
gahan house halifax 1869 Upper Water St., Halifax
Gahan House makes make a wide variety of ales and once in a while throw in a Belgian style or an interesting lager. Anything goes-except, unfortunately, sour beers that could infect their brewery..Their approach? Come up with a good idea and make it happen.
Years in business: 30 Beers produced: 13 (listed below)
Years in business: 1.2 Beers produced: 8 (listed below)
Peculiar, Ringwood, Keefe's Irish Stout, Best Bitter, Best Bitter Special, Hopping Mad, Old Cardinal Abbey Ale, Greenman, Granite IPA, Darkside Black IPA, Honey Ginger, Black and Tan, and Flander's Fields
Briny Blonde, Hopgoblin, Pleasures and Treasures, For Bitter or Worse, Baby Steps, White Rhino, and Radler
f GraniteBrewery L granitebrewery official Website: granitebreweryhalifax.ca
f gahanhousehalifax L GahanHalifax I gahan.halifax official Website: halifax.gahan.ca
GARRISON BREWING 1149 Marginal Rd., Halifax
English style beers, East Coast Brewed!
Years in business: 18 Beers produced: 26 (listed below) Irish Red, Tall Ship, Nut Brown, IPA, Seaport Blonde, Raspberry Wheat, Imperial IPA, Martello Stout, Fog Burner, Grand Baltic Porter, Winter Warmer, Double Jack, Sugar Moon Maple, 3 Fields, Nas Hefeweizen, Rise ’n’ Stien Hefeweizen, Spruce Beer, Nit Wit, In Session , Honey Lavender, Obey This Brew, Black IPA, Sweet Rhy’d, Coast To Coastless, Not So Gentile Tickle, Imperial Chocolate Stout
f garrisonbrewing L garrisonbrewing I garrisonbrewing official Website: garrisonbrewing.com
Good Robot Brewing Company 2736 Robie St., Halifax
Good Robot believes that beer reflects the quality of its maker and is best paired with experiences, whether bum-rushing the stage with an aggressive IPA or crying under a lamppost with a warming stout. Their struggle in life to fit into any one category reveals itself in their beers. Their approach is simple: based on their current state, what flavour do I want to experience? The beer takes care of the rest.
HELL BAY BREWING co. 38 Legion St., Liverpool
Generally, all of their beers are traditional styles, but they sometimes add a twist to them (ie. OPA, a traditional pale ale with oatmeal added to the grain bill). They have done lagers in the past, but stick to the ales.
Years in business: 4.5 Beers produced: 14 (listed below) English Ale, Dark Cream Ale, R.I.P.A., OPA (oatmeal pale ale), Chocolate wheat porter, Latzenbier, Hell's Anvil, Wee Heavy, Dry Irish Stout, Dark & Dirty, IBA india brown ale, Dunkelweisien, Honey Blond. and Oatmeal Stout
f Hellbaybrewing L HellBayBrewing I hellbaybrewingco official Website: hellbaybrewing.com
Meander River Farm and Brewery 906 Woodville Rd., Ashdale, Hants County
Meander River is a farm and brewery. They produce many different styles of beer and cider. They change with the seasons and include ingredients from their own farm and local farmers; honey, hops, apples, etc. They have 2 taps at the brewery that rotate these brews year round for tastings and growler fills.
Years in business: 1.5 Beers produced: 7 (listed below)
Years in business: 0.5 Beers produced: 5 (listed below)
Lunch Box Pale Ale, Ashdale Honey Brown, Smokey Chipotle Porter, Gristmill Wheat Beer, Homegrown Wet-Hopped Beer, Haymaker Double IBA, and Surf & Turf Scotch Ale
Goseface Killah Gose, Leave Me Blue Kentucky Corn, Crown on the Ground Steam, Burban Legend Citrus IPA, and Tom Waits for No One Imperial Stout
f MeanderRiverFarm L meanderriver I meanderriver official Website: meanderriverfarm.ca
f goodrobotbrew L GoodRobotBrew I GoodRobotBrew official Website: goodrobotbrewing.ca
Granite Brewery 6054 Stairs St., Halifax
Granite brews English ales as well as an Irish Stout and a
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Belgium Abbey. They specialize in cask conditioned real ales which have been served hand pumped at the Henry House for almost 30 years. Their beers are inspired by traditional English styles, brewed in opened fermenters using their 150 year strain of Ringwood yeast.
LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Autumn 2015
North brewing company 2576 Agricola St., Halifax 62 Octerloney St., Dartmouth
At North Brewing they focus on Belgian Inspired ales. They love rustic farmhouse brewing and that shows through in their house yeast strain. With the opening of their Dartmouth
location they're excited to begin more experimenting with mixed fermentations.
Years in business: 3 Beers produced: 9 (listed below) Summer Saison, Winter Saison, Farmhouse Ale, Gus' 65 M Ale, Belgian IPA, Strong Dark Belgian, Glenora Barrel Aged Strong Dark Belgian, Halifax Common, and Belgian Milk Stout
f NorthBrewingCompany L northbrewing I Northbrewing official Website: northbrewing.ca
Propeller Brewing Company 613 Windmill Rd., Dartmouth 2015 Gottingen St., Halifax
Propeller produces International award winning, all-natural craft beer available at liquor stores, fine bars and restaurants throughout Nova Scotia. When you drink Propeller Craft Beer you are enjoying a fresh, natural beer made using timehonoured methods. The focus is on distinctive full-bodied taste and aroma, achieved by using the best ingredients.
Years in business: 18 Beers produced: 13+ (listed below) Organic Blonde Ale, IPA , ESB (Extra Special Bitter), Pale Ale, Rye IPA, Double IPA , Honey Wheat Ale , Bohemian Style Pilsener, London Style Porter, Revolution Russian Imperial Stout, Irish Red Ale, Nocturne Dark Lager, Pumpkin Ale, and the One Hit Wonder Series
f propellerbeer L PropellerBeer I PropellerBeer official Website: drinkpropeller.ca
Schoolhouse Brewery
63 Castle Frederick Rd., Falmouth
Schoolhouse beers are unfiltered, and made with Maritime barley and organic specialty malts. The Principal Ale is an “aromatic� pale ale. This beer is dry hopped to emphasize the hop aroma and minimize hop bitterness. The Chequers Ale is a robust porter made with Goldings hops. This Robust Porter is a tribute to Cameron's Great Grandfather's brewpub in Kent England with the same name.
Years in business: 1.5 Beers produced: 3 (listed below) Principal Ale, Chequers Ale, and Hants County Hop Series
f SchoohouseBrewery L SHBPrincipal I SHBPrincipal official Website: schoolhousebrewery.ca
Sea level brewing
980 Terry's Creek Rd., Port Williams Sea Level I doesn't produce any one style, but maybe the word would be interpretation of many styles, unique, approachable with lots of flavor
Nova Scotia CRAFT BEER Years in business: 8 Beers produced: 16 (listed below) Planters Pale Ale, Blue Heron ESB, Rojo Mojo Red Ale, Port in the Storm Porter, Summer Blonde Pilsner, High Street Wee Heavy, Blooberry Pail Ale, New Scotland Heather Ale, Crossing Muddy Waters Brown Ale, Apple Blossom Ale, El Rojo Disdlb Double IPA, Southern Cross IPA, Acadian Cross Extra Pale Ale, Hopfazupfa Wet Hopped IPA, and Punkin Grinner Ale
f SeaLevelBrewing L sealevelbrewing I sealevelbrewing official Website: meanderriverfarm.ca
Spindrift Brewing Company 21 Frazee Ave., Dartmouth
Their Flagship Beer, Coastal Lager, is a bright amber lager that has unique toasted and earthy qualities. This German-style Festbier converges specialty European and Canadian malts, with noble German hops to create a natural clean finish that can only be obtained by using the traditional lagering process. Spindrift is not going to brew your everyday beer, but will bring distinctive and seasonable beers to market that fill a gap in products not currently offered. They will not stick to making any particular style of beer, only to making great beer not currently experienced by the market.
Years in business: 0.1 Beers produced: 1 so far (listed below) Coastal Lager
f SpindriftBrewing L spindrift_brewing I spindriftbrewing official Website: SPINDRIFTBREWING.COM
Tatamagouche Brewing Company 235 Main St., Tatamagouche
A certified organic craft brewery who enjoys making beer that reflects fresh, Nova Scotia craft beer. They use local as much as possible, often with unique ingredients, to subtly add a pure
'Tatamagoodness' flavour.
Years in business: 1.5 Beers produced: 19 (listed below) Hippie Dippie Pale Ale, Butcher Block Red, North Shore Lagered Ale, Sunrise Trail India Session Ale, Dreadnot India Black Ale, Little Russian Parti-Gyle, Russian Imperial Stout, Giantess Barley Wine, Two Rivers Baltic Porter, Rum Barrel Aged Dreadnot, Little Giant PartiGyle, Cerberus American IPA, Lagerhosen, Deception Bay IPA, Oyster Cloister Stout, Maple Squash Ale, RR#2 Lager, Ging' Sync- Rye Rye Rye, and Horns Over Hooves DIPA
f tatabrew L tatabrew I tatabrewco official Website: tatabrew.com
Uncle leo's brewery 2623 Hwy. 376, Lyon's Brook
Uncle Leo’s Brewery is the dream of Brewer, Karl Whiffen and his wife Rebecca, and named after Karl’s Great Uncle Leo who brewed and sold his own ales out of his General Store in Newfoundland in the 1940’s. Newly opened in June of 2013 Uncle Leo’s Brewery produces fine ale in the traditional style of craft breweries. Their beer is made from various malts, hops, yeast and water with no added fillers or preservatives. Uncle Leo’s is one of a few breweries to make beer from fresh well water.
Years in business: 2.3 Beers produced: 6 (listed below) Uncle Leo’s Red Ale, Uncle Leo’s IPA, Smoked Porter, Vohs Weizenbier, Cream Stout, and Winterschlaf
f UncleLeosBrewery L uncleleosbrewer official Website: uncleleosbrewery.ca
Unfiltered Brewing 6041 North St., Halifax
Unfiltered has a firm concentration on bold American West
Special Event Beers
One thing that's been piquing our interest for some time is the collaborative partnerships between craft breweries and local event hosts. It's a great way for both groups to step out of the box and support each other, while offering its customers something fun and unique. Pictured left and starting left, we have Propeller's Nocturne Lager and Wind Swell Wheat (Official Beer of Sausage Fest), followed by Garrison's Vulcan Ale and Raspberry Ginger Ale, both designed for this year's Hal-Con. As with all event specific beers, they are in limited supply, and for a limited time only, so don't forget to grab them when you see them.
Coast-style brews with a bias toward big flavours, hops, balance and drinkability. With an all-natural approach to brewing and absolute minimal processing, they prefer their beer as they prefer all food presenting it to consumers in its natural state; fresh, wholesome, flavourful, raw, unplugged and delicious.
Years in business: 0.3 Beers produced: 8 (listed below) Hoppy Fingers APA, Exile On North Street IPA (gluten-reduced), Twelve Years To Zion DIPA, Daytimer Berliner Weisse (naturally kettlesoured), Double Orange Ale DIPA, Hop Riot Harvest IRA, All Falc'd Up DIPA, and Flat Black Jesus American Stout
L unfilteredbrews official Website: unfilteredbrewing.ca
8 more nova scotia brewers Rare Bird Craft Beer - Guysborough Paddy's Pub - Wolfville and Kentville Bad Apple Brewhouse - Berwick The Townhouse - Antigonish FirkinStein Brewing - Bridgewater Nine Locks - Dartmouth Rudder's Brewpub - Yarmouth Rockbottom Brewpub - Halifax
Your brand.Your glass.
The Brewey Association The Craft Brewers Association of Nova Scotia exists to promote Nova Scotia craft beer and will be hosting its Second Annual Nova Scotia Craft Beer Week in may 2016. Giddy up!
23 Venture Cresent, Elmsdale, N.S. 1-866-535-7483 路 www.jymline.com Your LOCAL choice for custom decorated drink ware since 1969.
Nova Scotia CRAFT BEER
Article by : Angeline MacLennan
A quick guide to the main types of beer
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etting to know all of the various beer styles out there can seem daunting, or even intimidating. But it needn’t be! The beauty of beer is that you can find world-class examples at local retailers, many for less than $5 per bottle. It’s less intimidating to find exactly what you like when you don’t have to worry about sinking a lot of money into a stinker. So what are the beer style basics? Well, beers are typically classed as ales, lagers or wild/sour/spontaneously fermented beers. Beyond that, there are four main brewing regions that have their own sets of style categories: Germany, Belgium, Britain and the U.S. Beers will fit into one of many style categories based on their history, brewing style, ingredients and specific parameters for colour and alcohol content, amongst other qualities, such as aroma, flavour and mouthfeel. Keep your eyes peeled for breweries around the province that may offer some of these styles.
Lagers
Many people assume a few things when they hear “lager”: that these beers are light in colour, lightly flavoured, crisp and refreshing. Although this is often true, lagers can also be thick, dark and malty, or hoppy and lively. Two things all lagers have in common is the strain of yeast used and the method of fermentation, meaning the yeast won’t produce as many fruity or spicy flavours (esters or phenols), resulting in a clean tasting beer.
Pilsners
This is the beer style that spawned thousands of copycats. Originating in the Czech Republic, variants of this style make up 80 per cent of the world’s beer consumption by volume. Pilsners are light lagers, meant to be crisp and refreshing with a moderate bitterness. German hops add perfumey and flowery aromas and flavours. These do well with
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lighter dishes, such as chicken alfredo. The beer won’t overpower your delicate pasta, while the high carbonation will lift the fat from your tongue to refresh your palate between bites.
Bocks
German lagers, bocks are considered a family of “big beers” that are maltforward and high in alcohol content. The hoppiest of the bock family would be the maibock, but there’s also the doppelbock and a distilled version called eisbock. Your standard bock beer is very toasty and caramelly, slightly bitter, with little to no hop flavours. I like these beers with gamier meats, especially ones that have earthy and caramelized flavours, like sausages.
Ales
Ales are older than lagers by a few thousand years. These beers ferment warmer and faster than lagers do.
LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Autumn 2015
Because of this, they often exhibit yeast qualities of fruity esters or spicy phenols.
Wheat Ales
Depending on where you are in the world, ordering a wheat ale could have you consuming very different beverages. Wheat has higher protein content than barley does, meaning your beer may be cloudier, but it will also have a bigger head of foam. Unmalted wheat can sometimes add a slight lemony bite as well. In the U.S. wheat ale can be very similar to blond ale, but hazy. These light beers do well with light foods or very mild cheeses, so mozza sticks would work here. In Germany your wheat ale, called hefeweizen or weisse, should taste like bananas and cloves. They are very effervescent and refreshing; try one with strawberry shortcake and cardamom. Whereas in Belgium, witbier usually has coriander and bitter orange peel added while brewing, creating an altogether new experience. I find these beers stand up superbly to vinaigrettes and tangy marinades.
Bitter (Best/Extra Special)
Possibly the quintessential British style of beer, the bitter category actually may be a misleading title for American drinkers. The average British bitter is actually less bitter than the average American amber ale. These beers are subtle; they have lower carbonation, lower alcohol and lower. They also have
many fruity flavours and can have a touch of caramel malt flavour to balance their bitter essence. This British beer pairs best with classic British pub grub like fish and chips.
Belgian Saison
Belgians love adding an eclectic mix of ingredients to their beers, from rock candy, to herbs and fruit. Saisons, in particular, are popular Belgian style ales. These beers are quite dry, highly effervescent and very refreshing. Saisons often boast flavours that could remind you of an herbal bouquet, either from directly adding herbs or from the phenols created by the yeast. Saisons will pair with many foods. One option is charcuterie, especially spiced and herbed meats that will hold their own against these complex beers.
IPA
The India Pale Ale originated in England in the 1800s. Though many argue over its exact history, legend has it that this beer was made with more hops and alcohol to preserve it on long ship voyages to India, where British troops were stationed. If there’s one beer that stands as an American craft beer icon, this is it. Americans have taken this style and made it their own. Aggressively hoppy in flavour and aroma but still having enough malt backbone to balance its firm bitterness, the IPA pairs well with spicy foods like traditional Indian curry.
Porters and Stouts
During the Industrial Revolution in England, porter beer had become so immensely popular that at one point porter breweries were as profitable as banks! While porters have caramelly and chocolaty smoothness with low bitterness, stouts can be drier and have a more firm bitter bite to them, like a dark coffee. Both porters and stouts are dark, malty beers with lots of roast qualities. They pair well with dark and roasty foods, like grilled meats or roasts, but do exceptionally well with chocolate and desserts.
Sour
Considered the oldest way to brew beer, sour beers have microbes and/or wild yeast instead of, or in addition to, traditional brewing yeasts. Bacteria such as Acetobacter and Lactobascillus give flavours of vinegar or yogurt-like tartness, respectively, whereas the wild yeast Brettanomyces can add funky, damp wool, barnyard-esque flavours.
Gose
Quickly rising in the ranks as a craft favourite, this sour German wheat beer uses salt and coriander in the brew, making it very complex. The wheat in this beer can give it a lemony bite. Lactobascillus is usually what gives these beers their signature sour pucker. Gose could almost remind you of a salty, lemon meringue pie, just lacking sweetness. These flavours will marry well with your favourite seafood, particularly any fish dish that uses a beurre blanc or hollandaise.
Nova Scotia CRAFT BEER
The Atlantic Canada Beer Awards
brew bits by Angeline MacLennan
The second annual Atlantic Canada Beer Awards just wrapped up here in Halifax. It took place over two days in October, where BJCP beer judges evaluated just over 200 entries from breweries spanning from Newfoundland to New Brunswick. The beers were scored based on aroma, appearance, flavour, mouthfeel (the sensations the beer creates in your mouth) and the overall impression the beer left. Nova Scotian brews fared well with medals going to Garrison, Rockbottom Brewpub, Big Spruce, Uncle Leo’s, Propeller, Paddy’s Pub, Tatamagouche Brewing, Bad Apple, Sea Level, Meander River, Hell Bay and Breton Brewing. Phew! Halifax’s own Garrison Brewing also took home the esteemed Brewery of the Year award. Congrats to everyone who entered! For a full list of winners, check out the address below.
canadianbeernews.com
TWO New Breweries for Nova Scotia FirkinStein and Nine Locks are the new kids on the beer block. FirkinStein opened in Bridgewater in September, and although not on taps anywhere yet, they hope to be in the future. Until then, they do offer a growler delivery service of their Nor’Easter Red Ale for Bridgewater residents, and have had success selling their growlers at the Hubbards Farmers’ Market. Nine Locks expects to open it doors in the next couple months in Dartmouth, near Lake Micmac. They intend to have an Extra Special Bitter and an India Pale Ale for their first beer releases, and will offer growler fills and canned versions of their suds. And watch for SpinDrift Brewery’s official opening in Dartmouth in November!
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Nova Scotia Craft Beer Week 2016 It’s almost time for Nova Scotia Craft Beer Week! Last year’s inaugural week was a massive success with great events that you’ll be sure to want to catch again this year, such as Beer and Beethoven, Open Brewery Day, the Science of Beer at the Discovery Centre, and the flagship event Full House Craft Beer Fest, as well as some beer competition events, plus many more. Taking place May 6-15, keep your eyes on social media for upcoming events using the hashtag #NSCraftBeerWeek. Whether you’re a seasoned beer aficionado, or are just discovering craft beer now, there will be plenty of events to take part in, learn about beer, support local, and have fun!
nscraftbeer.ca
LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Autumn 2015
Good Robot Taproom The north end will soon be home to your new favourite place to swing by and stay for a beer. The good robots of Good Robot have been busy with renovations for their taproom! Not only will they be serving their own beer on tap, but will also have guest taps for other breweries and homebrewers. Slated to open this December, the taproom will host many dynamic nights such as Just Vorlauf’s stand-up comedy night, or Silent Knights; a two-hour silent reading session where you can crack books while you crack beers. Decidedly not a bar or brewpub, patrons are welcome to purchase food at the local food truck, or bring in their own food while they enjoy their on-site brews. This news definitely does compute.
Harvest Beers The Autumn Leaves aren’t the only things of red and gold worth singing about at this time of year. The seasonal brews of red and gold around the province have changed with the leaves. It’s harvest time, so you can expect some brewers to incorporate the ripest seasonal ingredients into their beer such as pumpkin, cucumber, or fresh hops. Check out beers below with the “*” next to them, it indicates that the brew was made using fresh hops, picked only hours before being added to the brew, or “wet-hopped”. Because of the relatively short shelf life for fresh hops, these beers are in very limited supply, so try and enjoy one while they last!
Third Annual Craft Beer and Local Food Celebration
Gahan House
Big Spruce Brewery
Briny Blond hybrid beer, 5.2% *Harvest Ale, 5% Hopgoblin Imperial Red Ale
*Craig Goes Yard IPA, 6.7%
Uncle Leo’s Brewing Altbier, 5.2% Cream Stout, 5% *Pictou County Harvest Ale, 5.7%
The third annual Craft Beer and Local Food Celebration is shaping up to be the most over the top yet! This year, for the first time, the evening will take place at the Halifax Marriott Harbourfront, and a bigger venue means more space to showcase even more of Nova Scotia’s finest breweries, restaurants, and live entertainment than last year. This all-inclusive event will take place January 14th, tickets include all drinks and food for the evening, and guests get to take home a versatile Belgian style tulip shaped beer glass. Tickets are already selling quickly, so get yours while they last!
Breton Brewing
localconnections.ca/events
Coastal Lager, 5%
Celtic Colours Maple Lager, 5.5% Garrison Brewing
Unfiltered Brewing *Hop Riot India Red Ale, 7.3% North Brewing *Setting Sun Cherry Saison, 6% Propeller Brewing Russian Imperial Stout, 8% Pumpkin Ale, 5.5% RockBottom Brewpub
Sea Level Brewing
*Red Duster American Pale Ale, 5.5% Bulldog Brown Ale, 4.5% Marzen Red Lager, 5.9%
Hopfazupfa IPA, 6.5%
Big Spruce and Stillwell
Meander River Brewery
Gimme Nelson, 5.7%
Double Jack Imperial Pumpkin Ale, 8%
*Homegrown Pale Ale, 4.2% Tatamagouche Brewing Russian Imperial Stout, 8% Ginger Rye Ale, 5.5% Deception Bay IPA, 6.2% Spindrift Brewing
Nova Scotia Wine
Uncorked by Amy Savoury
list of medal winners can be found on the CAPS-AC website. Huge congratulations goes out to Avondale Sky for receiving the distinctive honour of being named Winery of the Year. In addition, Domaine de Grand Pre and their 2013 Riesling Icewine for being awarded Wine of the Year. I can’t wait to see were 2016 takes our region and our wines.
2015 Atlantic Canadian Wine Awards I had the utmost privilege this fall to participate in the judging of the 2015 Atlantic Canadian Wine Awards (ACWA). This annual completion, now in its 7th year, is diligently organized by the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers- Atlantic Chapter (CAPSAC) and highlights the best of wine being made in the Atlantic region. The caliber of wine presented each year continues to exceed expectations and truly demonstrates the uniqueness of our winemaking making regions. Once the results were tallied, one thing is certain, the wines have evolved and the diversity of styles being produced gives everyone a reason to fall in love with Nova Scotia wine. Award winners were announced in early November and every Nova Scotia wine maker, winery owner, and wine drinker should be proud. The full
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2016 Icewine Festival Time to get your 2016 calendars out and mark the first Nova Scotia wine festival of the season in. The 2016 Icewine festival will be presented by Blomidon Estate Winery, L’Acadie Vineyards, Luckett Vineyards, Sainte Famille Wines, Planters Ridge Winery, Gaspereau Vineyards and Domaine de Grand Pre. This action packed annual event will be taking place once again at the beautiful
LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Autumn 2015
Grand Pre winery. Happening over two weekends, February 27th to March 6th 2016, the Icewine Festival has a little something planned for everyone. Wine enthusiasts, crafters and outdoor adventurers can all unite to celebrate winter in wine country. The main focus of the festival is Nova Scotia wine, in particular the liquid elixir icewine, but in addition, each wine offering will be perfectly paired with a food small plate. With your ticket purchase you will receive tokens for the tasting portion of the festival which will allow you to sip and nibble your way through the seven winery samplings at your own choice and pace. If the samplings is not enough to satisfy the palate of the wine and culinary enthusiasts there will be traditional Swiss raclette and a pig roast happening on site to further curb your hunger. For the outdoor adventurer and crafters, bring your own snowshoes and creativity as each Sunday there will be a guided snowshoe hike through the vineyard and grape vine crafting taking place in the wine shop. On each Saturday there will be a new and extremely exciting addition to the festival, a vineyard Ghost Walk by the highly talented and entertaining, Jeremy Novak of Valley Ghost Walks. If you ever needed an excuse to get outside in the winter time and enjoy fabulous wine, food, and entertainment this is it! You won’t want to miss this action packed festival. For ticket information and additional details check out: nsicewinefest.com
A few award winning wines to celebrate with Domaine de Grand Pre, 2013 Riesling Icewine As close to perfection as one wine can get, this first vintage of Riesling icewine from Domaine de Grand Pre delivers pure delight. This is a wine that calls all of your senses to attention. Elegant, concentrated in the glass and absolutely exotic on the nose. Expertly vinified with a hint of barrel aging in New American oak adds a lingering, rich layer. Complex aromas of sugared floral petals, dried mango and lifting lemon drop erupt from the glass. But it is the impeccable balance of acidity that elevates this wine to perfection. It is easy to see, smell and taste just why this wine has taken home so many prestigious awards in 2015. Recently named Wine of the Year at the 2015 ACWA and was also one of three Nova Scotia wines given the regal Lieutenant Governor's Award for Excellence in 2015. Avondale Sky, 2013 Montavista Avondale Sky and winemaker Ben Swetnam continue to deliver exceptional wines and at the ACWA took home a mountain of medals and was rightfully so named the Winery of the Year. I have always looked at winemaking as an art form and Ben is a true artist of the grapes with a distinct ability to put his own artistic impression into every glass of Avondale Sky wine. This exquisite red blend, Monavista, is no exception. Co-fermenting the Marechal Foch, Leon Millot, Lucie Kuhlmann and Dechaunac grapes and then extending the maceration period to 5 weeks gives this wine extraordinary character and depth. Brambleberry pie on the nose, with whiffs of cinnamon and spice are all elegantly intertwined with subtle oak influence of vanilla and pencil shavings. The palate is equally balanced with approachable tannins, food friendly acidity and a long fruitcake finish. Luckett Vineyards, NV Black Cab An approachable, rich and delicious red, no wonder it took gold at the 2015 ACWA. Winemaker Mike Mainguy continually impresses with his red offerings at Luckett Vineyards. To add concentration to this beauty he uses dried grapes and the result is certainly gold medal worthy. Bold and inky, it is a wine bursting with jammy black fruit and toasty warm oak. Concentrated with ripe, juicy tannins this is a wine that will please the most discerning red wine drinker and leave them wanting more.
L’Acadie Vineyards, 2012 Vintage Cuvée Rose A wine that continues to impress with each new vintage release and deserves every accolade that it receives. The 2012 vintage, if I must say, has out done itself again taking home major Nova Scotia wine awards in 2015. Named as one of the Lieutenant Governor’s Award of Excellence in Nova Scotia wine and was also named Sparkling wine of the year at the 2015 ACWA…this is one deserving bubbly. A cuvée of local grape stars Marechal Foch, Seyval and L’Acadie this is an elegant wine that still knows how to have fun. Strawberry shortcake and cherry pie on the nose develops into finesse on the palate with fine persistent mousse leading to a soft finish. Equally versatile with food as it is with friends and conversation. Benjamin Bridge, NV The catchy black label of the newest member to the Benjamin Bridge sparkling collection sure makes it stand out from the others. And rightfully so, as this wine becomes their first nonvintage release. A much different philosophy has been applied to the making of this wine then to all other vintage released sparkling’s to date. Instead of attributing the uniqueness of a vintage wine to the differences in the particular growing season, the uniqueness of this non-vintage (NV) wine is a compilation of over 13 years of growing seasons all expressed in a particular BB estate style. And style, it does not lack. Delightfully rich in the glass with an expressive nose of honey, dried fruit and candied lemon peel. Showing graceful age with playful acidity and a consistency of minerality. Jost Vineyards, 2014 Coastal White Nova Scotia coastal shores usually shine due to the sun, water and sand but right now they are shining gold as Jost Coastal White was awarded a gold medal at the ACWA. Just as no matter where you are in Nova Scotia you are always close to the coastal influence, this is a versatile food wine, that no matter what you are cooking you should have it close by. This wine has true Nova Scotia personality that is both friendly and approachable. Fresh, and lively bursting with orchard fruit, of apples and pear. It is a vibrant wine with lifting acidity while never compromising its coastal salty influence.
Pick up your bottle of deliciously local wines at the NSLC, Bishop's Cellar, Rockhead, Port of Wines, Harvest Wines, or Cristall Wine Merchants.
LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Summer 2015
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Food & DRINK
MORRIS EAST Article by: Lia Rinaldo · Photos: Michelle Doucette
A neighbourhood pizza place off Larry Uteck Boulevard
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H
a! So, when you look up the meaning of “lumbersexual” on the web, a Wikipedia page pops up with this: Lumbersexual is a portmanteau, derived from lumberjack and sexual, coined in 2014 describing a man who has adopted a retro fashion style resembling a traditional lumberjack particularly with a beard, plaid shirt, and scruffy hair. Denver Nicks described the trend as perhaps an attempt to “reclaim masculinity”. Now, scratch that visual and imagine the Morris East pizza, minus the facial hair, of course. Smoked bacon, maple-brushed sausage, caramelized onions, smoked applewood cheddar, fried rosemary, maple syrup drizzle . . . are you drooling yet? Are you imagining yourself in the great outdoors with a roaring fire, a rustic and smoky pizza, and all that sticky and sweet caramelized meat? I digress. Clearly, I’m hungry. Alas, The Lumbersexual is actually no longer the name of this famous Morris East pizza. It’s simply called The Lumberjack now, but I’m here to let you know that nothing has been diminished with the mildly tidied up name change. And if you also found yourself confused watching a trendy downtown neighbourhood pizza joint open a second location in Bedford
LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Autumn 2015
West . . . again, nothing to worry about here. For as long as she can remember, Jennie Dobbs has loved pizza. She laughs citing one of her earliest childhood memories of putting together pizzas with Kraft Pizza Kits. Remember those crazy little no-frills packets of dough, sauce, cheese and spices? Jennie’s interest in cooking was spurned early on when she was regularly expected to do dinner prep along with her sister for their full-time working mother. An obsession with the newly minted Canadian Living cookbook at the time had her experimenting with things like deviled eggs, much to her mother’s surprise. Imagine coming home to a tray of these made by an eight-year-old after a long day at work. It may surprise you that this exuberant and now serial entrepreneur never directly planned on this culinary career path. After university, Jennie found herself working in the finance sector in the U.K. for over seven years. She was always inextricably linked to food; even a high-end French bank that she worked for had its own private chef who often prepared five-course French meals for their exclusive clients. She was also surrounded by a lively group of girlfriends in central Europe, making it easy for them to travel for food and for her to bank
major sources of inspiration, like a 25-course epic meal in Italy, or eating “fast food” — prawns in the shell and deep-fried sardines — in Spain. She began to grasp the idea that food was as much about place and experience as it was about the actual food. Step ahead to just eight years ago, when Jennie moved home to Halifax and her obsession with pizza was only matched by her enthusiasm to finally start her own business. And thus she opened Morris East, a wood-fired pizzeria, one of the only ones in the city at the time. The restaurant has always been a busy neighbourhood eatery with a very committed fan base. In fact, it was one of the regulars that campaigned to secure a spot for the restaurant on John Catucci’s popular Food Network show You Gotta Eat Here. The season three opener in April 2014 kicked off with Morris East’s wood-fired breakfast pizza. Hold up! Let’s take a second to consider how perfect a breakfast pizza can be, especially this one — tomato sauce, smoked cheddar, spinach, Portobello mushroom, smoked bacon, tomato and micro greens, all topped with a sunny egg. That hangover fixed by all the smoke and all that runny egg. Jennie admits that she was lucky to have the kind of support she did when she first opened. Many mentors came together — from Ontario to San Francisco to Halifax — to download their love of pizza to her. This spirit of mentorship and entrepreneurship appears to be a big part of her makeup now, as she’s been nominated three times for the RBC Canadian Woman Entrepreneur Award in 2010, 2011 and 2012, and is a 2012 finalist for the Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year Award. To this day, family friend Jane Wright (formerly of Jane’s on the Common) remains a mentor, and by the looks of it Jennie has inherited some of these skills, as she appears to have inspired her own former employees to open their own successful culinary businesses, like Dan Vorstermans of Field Guide and Jill Johnsrude of Halifax Press. I have to admit that driving out Highway 102 and taking the Larry Uteck exit, where there’s a density of new apartments and condos, didn’t conjure up the immediate idea and look of a true neighbourhood to me, but Jennie, a Bedford native, disagrees. On any given night, you can find the dining room full of regulars, and her team continues to cultivate and foster relationships with these customers. Heck, they’re even winning awards for it. Manager Amber MacLean, for example, won the 2013 Server of the Year award from Taste of Nova Scotia. Another team standout is Wine and Beverage Director Katrina Roberts, who is responsible for the elevated cocktail program. Let’s face it: cocktail culture goes well with the whole pizza experience. Many of the exotic pizza toppings, such as infused honeys and fresh herbs like basil and rosemary, actually lend themselves well to cocktails. Jennie affirms that all of her staff had the option to move to this location, and she had every intention of making it another neighbourhood restaurant. So, can we talk a little bit about that lumbersexual again? This pizza is so delicious it secured them a spot to compete this past April at the International Pizza Expo in Las Vegas in the Non-
Food & DRINK
Traditional Category - International (a blind tasting!). After much consideration, though, they ended up swapping it out it for a long-time customer favourite, the Pear Pizza. A seriously amped up, hyper-Nova Scotian version featuring Blomidon Baco Noir poached pears, maple tarragon aioli, Urban Blue cheese from Blue Harbour Cheese, prosciutto from Ratinaud Charcuterie, roasted shallots and micro greens. The team, led by Chef Tim Andresen, took bronze. Jennie still doesn’t know why they didn’t do this sooner, as it was such an overwhelmingly positive experience (the event draws 3,000 exhibitors and 7,000 attendees over the course of a couple of days). She was thrilled to discover that people are making great pizza from Milwaukee to Hawaii; pizzerias are one of the last true independent small businesses out there. It’s hard to believe that this new location has already been open about two years. The space is bright, with the sun pouring in through floor-to-ceiling windows on three sides, but yet it’s somehow cozy, with dark floors and banquettes to tuck into. Unlike its sister location on Morris Street, there is room here. The pizza oven pops out in front of a signature wall of red tile, and the newly-minted master pizza maker, Nate Morris, throws pizza dough into the air behind the counter. The size of the space has allowed them to expand beyond
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LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Autumn 2015
just pizzas. They also now make Italian-inspired main courses using local and seasonal ingredients — from salads and burgers, to gnocchi and a Milanese chicken. The menu gets two major overhauls a year, and both locations highlight a roster of about a dozen pizzas along with a daily pizza feature. Not to mention that signature chili oil and the wonderful uncooked tomato sauce that really performs in a wood-fired oven with Roma tomatoes, fresh basil and oregano. Things have started to normalize with the addition of Chef Ashley Davis just six months ago. A Red Seal Chef who came home via long-term gigs in Ottawa, Nantucket and beyond, she’s thrown herself into learning the art of pizza-making after working for a long time in the fine dining world. It’s safe to say she’s enthralled working out the complexities of live yeast and dough; trying to use the ovens for as much as possible; and smoking, grilling and caramelizing anything from pineapple and rhubarb to onions to bacon. She wants to understand how to get the best product out of the oven all the time. She’s worked in a lot of restaurants and thinks the crew at Morris East is among the best, showing up every day with smiles on their faces regardless of what’s happening in their personal lives. She, too, was driven into the culinary world and early as a result of her mother being a shake-and-bake queen; she grew up fearing she
might never enjoy good food. Let’s wrap this up with a tasty little dessert, a wood-fire roasted s’more. Crafted with house-made marshmallow and toasted in the oven by fire with chocolate ganache and graham cracker cookie, it’s one of their most popular sweets. So popular that it caused an uproar when it was temporarily retired from the menu. Jennie and her crew appear to be presenting an honest, sincere and inexpensive dining experience in an unlikely location. Good food can be anywhere, suburbs or downtown, and when selection is limited there’s obviously more of a demand for this kind of thing. In the meantime, they’ll be perfecting the art of pizza-making, striving to make it better every day. And be sure to watch out for Maximus — the newest addition to the Morris East team and the cutest little mobile pizza oven there ever was. █
Morris East actually has two locations, one in Halifax on 5212 Morris Street and one in Bedford on 620 Nine Mile Drive, with both serving from a slightly different menu. Guess you gotta try both!
Food & DRINK
The canteen A must-visit sandwich shop in downtown Dartmouth
Article by : Laura Oakley · Photos: Riley Smith and Laura Oakley
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f you can eat it all, you get a prize," says Renée Lavallée as she hands me a metal cafeteria tray holding a bowlful of meat on top of bread. As denoted on the chalkboard menu that day, The Hot Meatloaf is a sandwich that's eaten with a fork and knife; it consists of two slices of house-made light rye, generously buttered, topped with tender pork and beef meatloaf, smothered (there's no other word for it) in a creamy mushroom gravy. Tucked in the side, a handful of long, sliced pickles, just making it into the bowl. My hunger skewed my confidence for a few fleeting moments; about halfway through my lunch I was still sure I was going to be able to finish. Then, with only a few bites left, the heftiness of the meat-breadgravy combination hit me — and I gave up. I still had to interview Lavallée, the chef-owner of The Canteen, and couldn't do so in the middle of a food coma. Behind the service counter of The Canteen sandwich shop is a sprawling, open space that Lavallée has transformed, as much as possible, into a prep kitchen. Amidst racks of glassware, big plastic tubs of fermenting sauerkraut and kimchi, is a workspace with plenty of natural light streaming in from the large windows on the back of the building. The front of the building at 66 Ochterloney Street in downtown Dartmouth faces the road, housing Two if By Sea Café on the bottom level and The Canteen on the top. "Pull up a chair," Lavallée says to me as her and staff member Sadie stand at a wooden work table mixing up a huge bowl of falafel. So I did, to hear more about The Canteen. "I didn't want a restaurant," explained Lavallée. "I didn't want to be put back into that situation, especially with kids." She described her decision to, after about eighteen years working in kitchens, not return as chef at The Five Fishermen Restaurant. This happened five and half years ago, after giving birth to her second child. "This is a lot about family life. And trying to balance it," says Lavallée. She credits her husband, Doug, with planting the idea in her head about doing sandwiches. The vision of making everything
LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Autumn 2015
in-house, changing up the menu daily and, most importantly, being home by 6 pm started to grow on both of them. She started applying for financing in October 2013 and signed a lease with Zane Kelsall and Tara MacDonald (who own Two if by Sea, as well as the building) that February. "We basically opened within a few weeks, the end of March 2014." "I like for everyone to be able to see us, and see exactly what we're doing," says Lavallée of The Canteen's simple, open layout. "I'm happy to be able to go into the dining room and hand people their food and talk to them," she adds. Counter service at The Canteen means glancing at the chalkboard menu, taking a peek in the case that houses the daily selection of salads, placing your order and paying in advance. You can watch the staff working on your lunch from every seat, whether it's the handful of low-top tables or a stool along the railing that looks down upon the staircase to Two if By Sea. The menu typically offers five sandwiches, a soup and a few salads. Since opening, the offering has changed daily, with variations on a couple of mainstays like the brisket and the meatloaf. After visiting Charleston, South Carolina, last year she added a fried chicken sandwich and a calamari po' boy that both make regular appearances. But Lavallée says she's planning on streamlining to offer three consistent sandwiches throughout the week, plus two daily changing features. Lavallée describes the menu inspiration as a combination between what's in season and the collective specialties of her staff. "Sometimes on Fridays, we'll sit down at 4 pm when there's a lull and have a beer or glass of wine and sort of mull over the next week," says Lavallée. "It's a team effort." Someone worked making porchetta for two years in Toronto, and so they have fantastic house-made porchetta. Sadie rocks the falafel. Over the summer there was charcuterie. Her bread-maker, Jessica Best, has been with her since the beginning. "Depending on the strengths of the staff, the menu moves in different directions," says Lavallée. "It's an ever-changing thing." The free-form, local, from-scratch menu of hearty (and
rather large) sandwiches has earned Lavallée and her team a loyal group of regulars. She says numbers are going up, but there is absolutely no plan for expansion. "I will never open up a second shop. That is set in stone," says Lavallée. "For me it was all about family life and enjoying coming to work." What's happening at The Canteen proves that when you love what you do, it shows. █
The Canteen is open every day except Sunday, and can be found at 66 Ochterloney Street in downtown Dartmouth or online at: thecanteen.ca
The Jost Wonderful Time of the Year
@JostVineyards JostWine.com Please enjoy your holidays and celebrate responsibly.
Battery park
dhaba express
With it not yet being open, we're going out on a limb with its inclusion, but Chef Mark Gray (Brooklyn Warehouse) has never wronged us before. The magic begins November 2015.
Many consider Dhaba Express to be Halifax's best Indian food restaurant and it probably is. Best to show up hungry to this place.
62 Ochterloney St., Dartmouth
The Canteen A fabulous little sandwich shop tucked away upstairs at Two If By Sea in Dartmouth. No one's doing food like this anywhere else. Go there and eat well. 66 Ochterloney St., Dartmouth
Cha Baa Thai It's pretty much straight forward Thai food with great prices, especially if you're working from their lunch menu. Dining in groups of four or more and sharing stuff is probably the best way to do dinner. 100 Ilsley Ave., Dartmouth 1511 Bedford Hwy., Bedford
Cheese Curds Gourmet Burgers + Poutinerie A smash hit since day one, Cheese Curds rocks all kinds of burgers, dogs, poutines, and even breakfast. The menu is vast, making it sometimes tricky to make a choice, but having too many tasty eats on a menu is a good problem to have. A very good one. 380 Pleasant St., Dartmouth 600 Windmill Rd., Dartmouth
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8 Oland Crescent., Halifax
evans seafoods Famous for seafood (obviously), but it's those fish n chips which have people talking. Gluten free and delcious? They are indeed. Ochterloney St., Dartmouth
Il trullo ristorante A new Italian spot which opened up in King's Wharf this year and lots of folks have been raving about their experience. If traditional Italian is what you crave, give them a try. 67 Kings Wharf Pl #102, Dartmouth
il merchato If you live in Bedford, this is probably where you go for Italian. The food is good while the prices are reasonable'ish', and being at Sunnyside Mall parking is never an issue. Sunnyside Mall, Bedford
john's lunch Might not actually be the best fish n chips in Canada, but John's Lunch still deserves your visit 100%. Old skool fish n chips and seafood at its best. 352 Pleasant St., Dartmouth
mezza lebanese kitchen
The Chicken Shawarma Plate is $10.49. The chicken is locally sourced and there's enough on the plate to feed two. That's reason enough right there. Great place to grab something from on the way home. You'll be the hero when you arrive. 16 Garland Ave., Dartmouth
mic mac bar & Grill It's been around since forever and arguably serves the best steak in town. If pure old skool tavern action is what you seek, look no further.
sushi nami royale A safe-bet sushi spot in Clayton Park and Dartmouth Crossing. Don't like sushi? Then grab some udon, ramen, or chicken teryaki. There's something for everyone. 149 Hector Gate., Dartmouth 278 Lacewood Dr., Halifax
Talay thai The other Thai place people always talk about. Pretty standard, but good and priced well. Never a regret. 984 Cole Harbour Rd., Cole Harbour
219 Waverley Rd., Dartmouth
Tako sushi & ramen
morris east
One of our new favourite Japanese restaurants. Have some sushi, ramen, tuna tataki, or maybe some tempura. Beware of restaurant confusion though. 9 + Nine is in the same complex. Just one door over in fact.
The best restaurant in Bedford? It could well be. A wide selection of gourmet pizzas cooked in a wood -fired oven, along with other main courses not found at the Morris Street location. Very nice drink selection too.
480 Parkland Dr., Halifax
620 Nine Mile Dr., Bedford
true north diner
9 + Nine Worth the trip to Clayton Park just for this place. It's just Chinese food, or is it? We've had a lot of great Canadian Chinese over the years, but there's something different about this place. Everything tastes noticeably better and fresher. Just go there already!
A great little spot we discovered during Sasuage Fest 2015. It's a 1950's style diner through and through, and it's where you go when you're craving a cheeseburger with fries and a strawberry milkshake. Prices make it a go-to place for families, many of which are probably dining there every week. Super great service too.
480 Parkland Dr, Halifax
1658 Bedford Hwy., Bedford
pho hoang minh Always comes up as one of the best places to eat in Dartmouth. A pretty huge selection of Vietnamese and Chinese food and pretty stellar prices to go with. 172 Wyse Rd., Dartmouth
piez bistro If it's gotta be gluten-free, it's gotta be Piez Bistro. Great selection of vegan stuff too, but the real focus is on serving healthy food that's delicious. They also have a stand at the Alderney Landing Farmers' Market on Saturdays. 635 Portland Hills Dr., Dartmouth
COMING NEXT ISSUE: all the best cafĂŠs and desserteries. (just in time for valentine's day)
Arts & ENTERTAINMENT
CATCH MIKE COWIE LIVE! FRIDAYS AND SATURDAYS @ 8:30pm The Press Gang 5218 Prince Street, Halifax (no cover) SUNDAYS @ 6:00pm Morris East 620 Nine Mile Drive, Bedford (no cover) JANUARY 14, 2016 @ 7:00pm The Craft Beer & Local Food Celebration Halifax Marriott Harbourfront (tickets online at: localconnections.ca/events)
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Arts & ENTERTAINMENT
Q&A by: Tiffany Thornton
Local musician Mike Cowie clearly loves what he does. After decades in the business, he never tires of the feeling he gets when he tilts his coveted 1949 trumpet in the air, letting the smooth, jazzy sound he is known for reverberate into the audience. Cowie’s varied career has seen him play with some of the greats, from B.B. King to the Temptations, and produce music for film and television along the way. Tell me more about your weekly gig at the Press Gang? We perform every Friday and Saturday night. The music is always changing and evolving. We take classic rock and pop songs like Prince and Sting, then change them up to make them sound deeper using bigger chords and creating different tempos. They are still the same song, but different.
Where did you draw your inspiration from to be musically inclined? We had some amazing music teachers in Halifax. They developed programs in all the schools for instrumental music; they formed an all-city for the kids that were really into music. It was all about working hard, and the teachers were driven to not limit us to what we could do. The experience got me away from negative stuff. Once that door opened, I discovered improvisation, and that's been my whole thing since.
You have played with a repertoire of amazing performers like the great B.B King. How did that come to be? B.B. King came into Middle Deck when I was 16. I was performing with the late jazz saxophonist Bucky Adams, and B.B King was in town for three days playing at the Queen Elizabeth auditorium. The last night he showed up at Middle Deck; he came in and got a standing ovation just for walking in the door. He sat and listened to us play and then sent his guy to get his guitar. This was just around closing time, and then the owner of the venue got up and said, “I'm locking the doors. Anyone who wants to leave can leave now, anyone wants to stay — I'll make you breakfast!” We played all night. It was an incredible night.
Can you create your own inflections when playing the trumpet as you go? Yeah, that's the thing about the trumpet; it's a huge scale. You can play so quietly and so softly that you can melt people. Or you can take it through the roof. It has a huge dynamic range.
Your unique style is to improvise a lot on stage. How does your band follow that? Improvisation is collective in the way I play. When we play I will pick a song that has a feeling I can relate to. Then I can take an arrangement and change it to suit the way I feel. It’s like a sketch and every night we paint different colours. Music is a gift; not just for me but also for the people listening.
What does playing music represent for you? Everything! I love getting in front of people. That's why I am playing restaurants and clubs in order to develop the improvisational thing. You have to do it on stage. Rather then doing six concerts a year like some guys do I want to work every week.
How did you get your first gig? Blues/jazz musician Dutch Mason gave me my first gig. I was a high school kid. I was getting out there at 16 playing with Bucky Adams. They used to put me out back when the liquor inspector came by because I was so young.
LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Autumn 2015
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Arts & ENTERTAINMENT
The art gallery of nova scotia Article by : Kathleen Higgins · Photo: Riley Smith
Bringing art and community together in downtown Halifax
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ctober is a very busy month at the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia. Nocturne, the Sobey Art Award and the Young Patrons’ Circle's second Art Party take place in the span of less than two weeks. That is, of course, on top of all of the regular exhibitions and programming found at the province’s art gallery, home to an archive of over 17,000 unique pieces. Lucky for me, even in the middle of one of their busiest months of the year, Communications and Marketing Officer Camille Dubois Crôteau graciously took some time to chat with me about this important artistic institution and to shine a light on some of the exciting offerings they're working on for the next year. Dubois Crôteau and the rest of the gallery team seem to be in agreement about the major highlight of 2015: their presentation of John Greer: retroActive, from April to September of this year. “That exhibition gave us the opportunity to highlight an established Nova Scotian artist and his work, but in a way that's really unique and powerful, because we have the space
LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Autumn 2015
available here to show his work in its full glory, if you will, to a large audience,” says Dubois Crôteau. What really makes this a highlight, though, was the opportunity it afforded to publish a stunning 350-page edition to accompany the show, which features Raoul Manuel Schnell's photos; essays by Ray Cronin, Sarah Fillmore and exhibition curator David Diviney; and design in collaboration with Amy Bachelor, Susanne Schaal and Greer himself. The comprehensive edition gives readers a chance to explore Greer's work and process, and Dubois Crôteau sees it as a fitting tribute. “The quality of the piece, how we were able to capture John's works and bring it all together. We kind of see it as our piece de resistance, if you will.” The large, unique space that the gallery provides was also used to great advantage with Terroir: A Nova Scotia Retrospective. Launched in April of this year and running until April of 2016, the exhibition is actually a touring, multi-phase project that draws on the gallery's extensive collection of Nova Scotian art in order to explore and celebrate the region's artistic history and
production. A recent call for submissions starts the next phase of the project, which utilizes the language of wine to explore the environment in which our artistic culture is cultivated. Dubois Crôteau explains that they are “really trying to draw out what has happened in Nova Scotia, and you see that through some of the more historical artwork that we have, through to what is happening right now, through that sort of Nova Scotian lens.” Sarah Fillmore, who curates the exhibit with David Diviney, succinctly describes Terroir as “a window onto the diverse and rich cultural patrimony at play,” exemplifying what Dubois Crôteau stresses is one of the galleries main objectives. “We are the province’s art gallery. So we not only have a responsibility, but we share a joy in wanting to expose our communities to their own work.” This sentiment, of connecting gallery and community, is at the heart of so much of what the AGNS does. Events like the Art Party and day camps turn the traditional gallery space into a playground for all ages to explore and make their own, while programs like Artful Afternoons and Autism Arts provide space within the gallery for specific communities to engage with and create art on their own terms. Volunteers from the community lead tours and help with large scale events like Nocturne, taking on the responsibility of sharing the art and the space with others. Inexpensive memberships and free admission on Thursday evenings make this even easier, and they allow you to make the gallery your own. With a membership, Dubois Crôteau explains, you can “make the gallery part of your lifestyle. You can come in and duck in for half an hour to an hour on a Saturday after brunch or bring some relatives in who are in from out of town.” For all of the wonderful details and exhibitions we discussed, one of the most exciting things about my conversation with Dubois Crôteau was what she couldn't tell me. She hints at exciting news about some “amazing” exhibitions to be announced in the next few months, as well as events and programs aimed at making art accessible and exciting for even wider audiences. At its core, the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia is a place where Nova Scotian stories mingle with international ones, providing a unique opportunity for our communities to see our own artistic legacy and those from around the world, all in one place. Dubois Crôteau sums it up perfectly at the end of our chat: “Our focus in the future is storytelling. We have so many gems here, so many stories, and maybe we can share those a little bit better. So we're looking forward to finding ways of doing that better and showing people how the building is alive inside.”. █
For a list of upcoming events and activities, including kids programming, visit the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia online at: artgalleryofnovascotia.ca
5218 PRINCE ST, HALIFAX · L THEPRESSGANG
2015 Winery of the Year AT L A N T I C C A N A D I A N W I N E A W A R D S
D’Vine Morsels Restaurant Tasting Room and D’Vine Morsels open year round. Call (902) 253-2047 or email info@avondalewine.com for seasonal hours and special event bookings.
80 Avondale Cross Road, RR#2 Newport Landing • avondalesky.com
Going local: Why sourcing local grass-fed meats are so important for your pet
R o d n e y H a b i b f PlanetPawsPetEssentials l PlanetPawsNS
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oes your pet suffer from skin irritations, chronic yeast infections or behavioural issues? What about: allergies, arthritis, autoimmune disease, cancer, cognitive issues, diabetes, gastrointestinal disorders, heart disease, liver disease, obesity, skin and coat disorders, or urinary tract disorders? Dr. Jean Dodds, one of the foremost experts in pet healthcare, sums up why these issues arise in her newest book, Canine Nutrigenomics: “They are results of long-term inflammation triggered by a combination of factors that are strongly influenced by environmental assaults on the epigenome. When these assaults become too much for the body
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to handle it finally reaches the tipping point, and a disease state appears. . . . [M]any of the foods that are marketed to nourish our dogs actually wreak havoc on them from the inside out, resulting in rampant obesity and chronic disease.” Where does all this inflammation come from, you may ask? Well, one massive component is your pet’s diet! To be more specific, and aside from high glycemic foods, the type of meat you are feeding your pet plays a big role.
GRASS-FED VS GRAIN-FED/ GRASS-FINISHED
Ken Kailing, editor and co-publisher of GoodFood World: “That lovely image of a herd of cattle happily munching away
LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Summer 2015
and contentedly chewing their cud is mostly a figment of your imagination. Over the last 70 years, the beef industry has evolved into an intense, industrial enterprise designed to put as much weight on animals as fast as possible and get the resulting meat to market as quickly as possible. “To do that, beef cattle are fed grain — lots of grain — to bring them up to the target weight for slaughter. Since it takes as much as 7 pounds of grain (corn, barley, soybeans, and other grain) to develop a pound of meat and those cattle gain about 3 pounds a day, that’s a lot of feed! “Omega-3 fatty acids are fats that are essential to human health. Sixty percent
SO WHY IS TOO MUCH OMEGA-6 A PROBLEM?
Because omega-6 is “pro-inflammatory,” meaning too much or an unhealthy balance causes inflammation in you and your pet! Studies show a high ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids have been linked with an increased risk of cancer, cardiovascular disease, allergies, depression, obesity and autoimmune disorders. So how can you make sure your pet’s meats are truly 100 per cent grass-fed? There lies the greatest challenge. There are a zillion different types of tricks that can be played to label meats as grass-fed when they really aren’t. When I asked Getaway Farm’s Chris de Waal, one of our local farmers/butchers, his response was: “Honestly, the best piece of advice I can give to folks is to get to know your farmer and your butcher! You want to build a trustworthy relationship with either, or both. Get in your car and drive down to the farm. If the farmer isn’t willing to be transparent, that throws up a red flag! With so many factors that can alter grass-fed meats (i.e. grass-fed in the summer, corn-fed in the winter), marketers can label most meats grass-fed although it is not entirely true!” So now you know. █
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efficiencyns.ca | 1 877 999 6035 | ENS-00137-03-V2
of the fatty acids in grass is omega-3, which is formed in the chloroplasts of green leaves. Grass-fed cattle can contain as much as two-to-four times more omega-3 fatty acids than grainfed animals. “At the same time, a high ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids has been linked with an increased risk of cancer, cardiovascular disease, allergies, depression, obesity, and autoimmune disorders. “A ratio of four to one or lower is considered ideal. Grain-fed beef has a much higher ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids than wild game or grass-fed beef. In grass-fed beef the ratio is approximately 2 to 1, while the ratio in grain-fed beef is more than 14 to 1.
Article & Photos: Alexander Henden · Car Courtesy of O'Regan's Lexus
2016
Test TestDRIVE DRIVE
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T
here's no better way to get to know a vehicle than having it for a full weekend, and on the second weekend of October I’m headed to Lunenburg for Spirited Away, a craft spirits festival, seated behind the wheel of the all-new Lexus NX 200t. It's a luxury SUV, and to me it seems like the right vehicle to have for such a weekend. For the longest time, luxury vehicles have stood for one thing, luxury, but today's SUVs have become more car-like when it comes to road handling, and this one is actually a bit sporty, both inside and out. It all starts with the outer shell, which really has that aggressive, sporty look. The lines are striking, and perhaps functional, but overall it has a nice balance, and while the sportiness is at the forefront, there is a feeling of luxury, which has been blended nicely into the design. Inside the cabin, the theme continues. It's luxury and sportiness at its best, and unlike luxury vehicles from previous generations, everything is straight forward and easy to use. It's clear that a lot of time and effort has been put into what is perhaps the most important aspect of any car, the cabin and controls. Driving position and access to everything is spot on. It's easy to appreciate the effort placed into the making of this vehicle. Well-appointed seats, a very nice sport steering wheel and all the controls have a very resolved look, as one would expect from a vehicle at this price point. There's lots of goodies, too. Things like the head-up display (the speedometer appears on the windshield above the steering wheel) are a really nice touch, but there are lots of these types of features at your immediate disposal. The dual climate control and heated and air conditioned seats are really nice, as are the simple audio, and navigation system, which help you make
LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Autumn 2015
better use of everything. The vehicle also boasts a blind spot monitor system, and I made good use of it a number of times, but that's just the tip of the iceberg. You also get lane departure alert with steering assist, rear cross-traffic alert, rain-sensing wipers, LED high beam headlamps with an auto levelling system and a driver seat memory system, to name but a few. I could actually go on forever about all the neat trinkets, but what impressed me the most was how easy everything was to access and use. Cabin space inside is also very good. It's designed for five passengers to sit comfortably, in luxury, if you will, with a little sporty flare of course. Seats are well bolstered and have the right firmness for even the longest of road trips. Visibility at night, thanks to the very advanced LED system, is staggering. You see the road perfectly no matter how dark it is outside. One of my favourite features on the Lexus NX has to be the keyless entry system. Yes, many cars now have this, but here there are controls on the door handles that are both intuitive and easy to use. Getting in and out could not be simpler. But what about the driving dynamics? What's this thing like to drive? In one word, perfection. No, it's not a Porsche Cayenne, but the performance and handling on the NX are still very much spot on. Power delivery, depending on the selected drive mode, leaves nothing to desire. Power is immediate, and even at higher speeds it's easy enough to overtake slower traffic pretty much any time, thanks to its 235 horsepower turbocharged engine. Doesn't sound like a big number, I know, but there's also 258 pounds per foot of torque, and power delivery is perfectly linear. The handling is also impressive. Lane changes happen quickly, and without all of the roll associated with previous generations
of SUVs. The vehicle remains composed, even during fairly aggressive cornering and lane changes. Of course, having the advanced all-wheel drive system helps a bunch too, and this has me wondering how good this vehicle would be in the snow. My guess? Close to perfection, which I have to say is how I would also describe the brakes on the NX. Overall, my impression is that the Lexus NX does everything it promises. It's the perfect vehicle for someone who has a little more to spend and is looking for something satisfying, and rewarding. It's a pleasure to drive, and leaves you with the feeling that you have everything you need and some other things you had no idea you wanted or needed, but no depend on. Lexus has built something special here, and if you are in the market for a vehicle in this class, I'm recommending you have a look and a drive to see for yourself. â–ˆ
Vehicle Specifications Model
Lexus NX 200t
Engine
2.0 L 4 Cylinder Turbocharged engine
Power
235hp
Torque
258lb ft @ 1650 - 4000rpm
Fuel Economy (city)
10.6 L/100kms
Fuel Economy (highway)
8.4 L/100kms
Seating Capacity 5 Base price (2.0L FWD) Price as tested (1.6T Premium AWD)
$41,950 $53,250
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Postcard Energy from EFFICIENCY ABROAD
The HomeWarming program Energy efficiency program keeps money in the pockets of low-income homeowners Article by: Jordan Whitehouse
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ven though this past winter was one of the harshest on record in the province, 81-year-old Annie MacAskill didn’t run out of firewood and didn’t have to sleep in the same room as her oil stove for once. It was, says the resident of Grand River, Nova Scotia, “the first winter where I could sleep in my own bedroom.” The reason was the province’s HomeWarming program, which offers free energy efficiency improvements, such as draft-proofing and insulation upgrades, to qualifying low-income homeowners. The idea behind the program is that because heating and cooling make up about 60 per cent of a home’s energy costs, reducing those bills can make other household expenses more manageable for people living on low incomes. Since 2011, 7,200 homes have received upgrades, and the long-term plan is to upgrade all low-income homes for energy efficiency over the next ten years in the province. For MacAskill, those upgrades included insulating her attic and cellar, draft-proofing other parts of her home, and replacing an inefficient freezer. Since the work was done last year, her oil bills have been cut in half and her power bills have dropped from over $165 to just over $110. Plus, the EnerGuide rating on her home, built in the 1800s, jumped from 43 to 63. “I went from least efficient to the most efficient,” she says. “I’m in the top 10 per cent of houses this age in Canada.” HomeWarming is administered by the Clean Foundation, a
LOCAL CONNECTIONS HALIFAX | Autumn 2015
non-profit, non-governmental environment organization, and Efficiency Nova Scotia, also a non-profit and an independent administrator of energy efficiency and conservation services in the province. Nova Scotia Power has donated $37 million over 10 years to the program for electrically-heated homes, while the province has allocated $12 million in the 2015-2016 budget for homes with non-electric fuel sources. To qualify, applicants have to prove that they own a single unit home in Nova Scotia, that they live in their home yearround and don’t plan to sell it in the near future, and that they meet the specified low income level. As a single person, that means an annual household income no higher than $20,952; for a household with two to four people, an annual household income under $38,932; for one with five or more, under $55,445. Once a homeowner qualifies, a certified energy advisor visits the home to figure out what upgrades, if any, are needed to make it more energy efficient. Then upgrades are scheduled and completed before a final assessment is done to determine how successful the improvements were. In MacAskill’s case this was a relatively straightforward process, but sometimes it’s not so simple. Take the Halifax home of Louizella, a single mother of two and part-time bank worker. “Louizella’s home was actually pretty efficient,” says Zenon Pillopowicz, the Clean
Foundation energy advisor assigned to the home. “The exterior surfaces, including the basement walls and attics, were sufficiently insulated. But Louizella’s power bills were quite high and her home was very cold.” Eventually he found the culprit: air leakage under the front entranceway in a small cubby closet, which was contributing to heat loss and drafts. He also found a few windows and door trims that were also leaking air. After sealing the leaks with caulking and spray foam, he reduced the drafts in her home by about 15 per cent. “While this may not sound like a big change, it could save her up to $380 a year,” he says. On average, qualifying homeowners who heat electrically save approximately $500 per year on heating costs, while those who qualify and heat non-electrically save about $900 per year, according to Efficiency Nova Scotia. Those savings also lead to more comfort, says Louizella. “You could feel the difference right away. I was so grateful.” She now encourages other low-income homeowners to look into the program. “A lot of people are in my situation, or much worse. They should apply. It might take some time to go through the process, but it’s definitely worth it. Even the little fixes made a big difference.” On the eve of another Nova Scotia winter, Annie MacAskill is glad she went through that process and thankful she’ll be able to sleep in her own bedroom once again this year. “I could never afford this if I lived to be 100,” she says. “Be thankful to God there is such a thing when you’re low income.” █
Interested homeowners can speak confidentially with a service advisor about their eligibility by calling 1-877434-2136 (toll free) or visiting HomeWarming.ca for full eligibility criteria and applications.
Closing NOTE
Dear Haligonians part III
T
his summer I responded to an invitation from this magazine’s evil publisher. I harboured suspicions that his invitation was yet another of his never ending barrages of cynical attempts to convince me that Halifax really and truly is the best place to live in Canada. In the spirit of Canadian unity and openness, I agreed to leave the comfort of my safe blue riding in Alberta to report on this year’s Halifax Sausage Fest. The prospect of eating free food and drinking craft beer with the nicest people in Canada had absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with my acceptance of his invitation. Haligonians really seem to be friendly and harmless. Maybe. I understand that your love and concern are what made you vote to help a lost 43-year-old who has hardly ever held a real job move back into his parents’ house. I’m not sure about the hydroponic greenhouse that he’s installing, but that’s a topic for another day. It warms my heart to see you so concerned, but you don’t have me fooled one bit. Your aspirations of national proselytization are obvious. I read a story about a man far from home amongst a very different but unusually friendly group of people. Having visited Halifax a bit, I know this feeling. His profound observation was: "I first learned about the power of butter at 18,000 feet above sea level, near Mount Kailash in Tibet.” Yak butter. Imagine milking a hairy, scary animal with horns that were clearly designed to kill. At sea level, it’s pretty hard to use the “the air at 18,000 feet makes people do strange things” argument, though. My recent experience in your village is more akin to Homer’s Odyssey. The siren call of Halifax lures smitten sausage lovers, a tempestuous sea of craft beer dashing them upon the rocks of insobriety to have them awaken to a golden sausage hanging from their necks and reeking of sausage and stale craft beer. Yes, you blindsided me again, Halifax. When will I learn? The Sausage Fest evening spiraled swiftly and brutally in a friendly, folksy kind of way into the depths of epicurean madness. Manifold varieties of wurst and creative garnishes were thrust upon me, accompanied by endless and deceptively cute little “samples” of absurdly incredible local craft beer. You took out the big harpoons this time, Halifax, Hamelin,
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whatever. Your homespun pied piper Mike Cowie was a fitting touch. It’s a sax, not a flute, but what the heck, it seems to work, and he’s really good at his job. I now realize that this evil publisher conspired with Cowie and his disarming accomplices. People like the T-Dogs brothers Tony and Sam Rinaldo, and the ever charming Mary Ellen Planetta and Pete Slipp from Elle’s Bistro, along with Jake, the world’s cutest baby. Even your very own local and international entrepreneur, job creator and pizza maven by night Jennie Dobbs from Morris East was there to make me feel comfortable and believing that there might be at least one right wing entrepreneur to talk to in my moments of doubt. I was wrong. She’s just a really great gal who loves Halifax. Then you attempted to finish me off with the irresistible hospitality of the bright and talented Sausage Fest keeper of the gate, Missy Searl. Even this jaded journalist must say, though, it was clever of my mad publisher to place me at a table with a strategically selected trio of women from the Dalhousie dental faculty who were obviously handpicked for their charm, intelligence and beauty. It was no coincidence that this vivacious group are naturalized Haligonian citizens sent to deliver the message that “it’s okay, don’t resist, join us, we were like you once.” Joanne Clovis, from Alberta, to make me feel that others “just like me” are deliriously happy Haligonians. Nancy Niesh, from Saskatchewan, to prove that that they don’t all move to Alberta. Burglind Blei, from Germany, to add Teutonic validation. By the end of the night they almost had me convinced to move (and maybe even vote NDP). It took real willpower to steal myself from falling prey to their beguiling ways. No, they didn’t lay a hand on me. Sigh. So much for those dental faculty stories. Halifax, I am on to you. Your powerful guile and wily charm are almost irresistible. A journalist’s job is expose the truth, no matter how much food and beer has to be consumed. I’ll be back again and again, if that’s what it takes. Any place this cheerful has its ugly side, and I will find it. One more thing. I figured out that lobster butter isn’t even from real lobsters — damn near lost a finger trying to milk one. Your lies are catching up to you, Halifax. █
FOUND
Championship Bowling Belt
To the kingpin in rented shoes who came celebrating the league championship, we were happy to serve as the Disneyland to your Super Bowl. But in the unbridled enthusiasm of your exit — on the shoulders of your league-mates — you forgot your belt at The Auction House. Why don’t you and your friends come back for it, and a few drinks. We’ll set ‘em up and you knock ‘em down.
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