Constructed Contrast
Connie MacDonald
Constructed Contrast ‘Constructed Contrast’ is a collection of abstract, conceptual knitted fabrics inspired by construction. The aim of this project was to create a knitted fabric collection that investigated textural contrasts using a variety of methods including yarn choice and knit structure. It was also to explore materials in a contemporary and unique manner and the way in which they are translated into a knitted fabric. My inspiration was construction and they way in which structures are created within an industrial, raw context. I primarily explored modern art with minimalistic sculptures and unusual shape composition. I also looked at architectural structures with inspiring angles, shapes, assembly methods and use of materials. The collection is designed for the woman’s wear designer and high-end high street fashion market with the fabrics being developed into garments. The collection is aimed to be situated alongside designer and brands such as Lucas Nascimento, Christopher Kane, COS and Whistles. By exploring my influences and inspirations I was able to develop my collection through various investigations and design developments. I investigated multiple ways in which I could incorporate the textures and materials within construction into a knitted fabric through fabric coating tests, knit stitch explorations and yarn investigation. Alongside this, I looked at shapes, patterns and angles, and how these could be translated into a knit, not only through stitch structure, but the overall sample shape and elements. I combined various fabrics together in multiple ways where the construction was a primary aspect.
My inspiration for this project centred on the theme of ‘Construction’. This theme encompassed a variety of elements such as materials, pattern within design and construction methods. These components were approached with an aim of a raw, industrial, minimalistic outcome, hence looking towards simplified and raw research material. The materials within construction really interested me as the textures and surface effects really varied, from heavily textured concrete to smooth, clean-cut plastics. The way in which the texture of these materials and the pattern within these textures really interested me as they gave me a opportunity to translate them into a knitted fabrics in a assortment of ways, such as knit stitch structure, yarn choice or fabric coatings. Pattern within structures also acted as a main influence for the project, inspiring knit patterns and stitch structures. The pattern primarily came from architectural structures and modern art (mainly sculpture). By looking at angles and shapes within buildings and art pieces, patterns were created and developed into knit structures. I also wanted to keep the theme of construction clear by showing visibly how they were created, for example ladders going across the fabric showing joins and connections.
Influences // Inspirations
Shape
Shape and the way in which shapes interact was a particular influence. By looking at modern art structures and architecture, I was able take aspects of unusual shapes and different ways to interpret shape. Rather than looking at conventional shapes, I looked towards more angular lines that created contrasts with straight, square shapes. I looked for the angular shapes that were created by changing the perspective of right angles or by looking for the awkward shape that’s created with an area of combined angles. I wanted to create shapes that work well together as well as contrasting each other.
I developed patterns from sketchbook work that I created by collaging random shapes together, whilst also incorporating textural elements. I looked at ways different shapes would interact and what patterns would be created when shapes were combined or repeated. By using this initial sketchbook work, I was able to create stitch structures that combined shape, texture and contrast.
Materials
The materials used within construction and the contrast within the variety of materials used really interested me throughout the project and the way in which they can be translated into a knitted fabric. The qualities of the materials range from smooth, clean-cut surfaces of plastics or glass to rough, bumpy textures of paint, concrete or plastic. The materials not only created patterns by looking at the design and detail within them as well as directly translating the texture of materials into a fabric.
Texture
Texture within knitted fabrics has always interested me and was something that I felt was relevant and exciting to explore for this project. By taking inspiration from the materials within construction I thought the most appropriate ways to translate these into a fabric would be through knit stitch structures as well as fabric coatings. I firstly started by creating textures using various materials that are used in industry such as electrical tape, plaster, concrete, etc. I then scanned them in and created flat forms of the textures. By doing this I was able to get differing patterns that I may not have noticed otherwise. I developed stitch structures with 3D qualities that has similar textural qualities to the patterns and qualities within these textures. I also investigated fabric coatings, as I wanted to take a direct influence from the materials used construction. For this reason I tried various materials and different applications to do this. For example, painting emulsion paint directly onto a knitted fabric and heat pressing electrical tape onto fabric
Angles
By taking inspiration from modern art and architecture I took an interest in the use of angles. I wanted to keep the collection and patterns simple and minimalistic. I didn’t want to use of pattern to become overwhelming or complicated to opted to use triangles a repeated pattern. I really like the way in which triangles fit perfectly in a repeat pattern and the way in which their angular lines contrast the straight, right angle shapes within the same fabric. Because the shapes are not the sole focus of the fabric, I didn’t want to over-complicate the use of shape. With the use of triangles and angular shapes, texture and contrast have also been incorporated through yarn choice, fabric coatings and fabric construction elements. I used a variety of different triangles and angular shapes to create this contrast. I used them in different stitch structures that had varying effects. For example I used a drop stitch triangle stitch with a contrasting simple yarn paired with a textured latex mohair yarn. This worked well in textural contrasts as well as colour contrasts. I also developed a stitch that had a shaped ladder on the surface of the fabric in a right angle triangle design. This showed visible construction of the fabric as well as contrasting lines and direction.
Grids Check and grid patterns appear in construction often with grids acting as a way of measurement and scale in plans, etc. Grids also appear in materials with metal fencing and mesh. I was also influenced when creating textures. I used mod rock to create clay/plaster like textures and when the plaster has come away from the mod rock you are left with a grid like fabric structure. When scanning this in, the pattern really interested me and was relevant to my theme. I wanted to translate grids into knitted fabrics in various ways. My aim was for texture to be incorporated in various ways so I investigated and developed various ideas. I used contrasting yarns to enhance the pattern by the background being a simple, smooth yarn and the grad pattern on top being a textured, fuzzy yarn. I also created 3D grid patterns that meant the grid was slightly raised above the background creating shadows and highlights.
Colour I wanted to keep the colour palette very simple, minimalistic and industrial to reflect the projects influences and inspirations. The palette is quite monochromatic with a large use of black, white and greys. I didn’t want this to seem dull so added a variety of steel blues as well as a minimalistic shade of light green. I thought the darker shades could become overwhelming and overpowering so by using the additional shades this is able to highlight certain areas by using contrasting shades and colours.
Stitch Structures
Developing structures inspired by sketchbook work based on my theme, I was able to create structures that used texture, contrast and colour in a variety of ways. I used contrasting yarn textures by pairing smooth wools with rough latex covered mohair yarns. This contrast of texture meant that the pattern and the stitch structure could be quite simple but would still be effective in achieving the project aims. I also included texture through 3D stitch structures so the knit has an interesting feel to it and was visually intriguing. By using structures such as racked ripple with laddered sections, I was able to emulate the shapes and textures within the sketchbook work I created initially. I incorporated a jacquard fabric in my collection. Although it doesn’t have any textural qualities, I wanted to highlight the angular contrasts and the 3D illusions that can be created with a flat, smooth fabric. By using various stitch structures with different textures, colours and patterns, I wanted to show variety and diversity. I wanted to be able to translate the collections influences and inspirations through a variety of ways to display the diversity of the theme whilst keeping it focused and centred.
Fabric Combination
I wanted to incorporate the art of construction into the final fabrics themselves and the way in which the fabrics are combined together. By taking inspiration from the layering of materials, construction methods within industry and sketchbook angle/shapes, I was able to develop different methods of combining fabrics together. I wanted the fabrics to all be visible and practical. I thought pockets could be really interesting if they were shown rather than hidden under a fabric. I wanted to make the pockets a focus with then being woven through the fabrics or hanging below the fabric. I also wanted to play around with proportion and compassion so wanted to place aspects of the fabric in unusual positions. For example, the rib of the fabric is in the middle of the fabric instead of being at the bottom.
Final Collection
I aimed to incorporate all the elements I had been investigating and developing throughout the project into the final collection of knitted fabrics. I wanted to use a variety of different elements to show variety. For example, using texture through fabric coatings, stitch structure and yarn choice. I also wanted to combine fabrics together in unusual ways that challenged the standard fabric sample constraints with unique proportions, different angles and placement. The collection is aimed at fashion womanswear for the designer/high end high street market. For this reason I used good quality yarns for example lambswool and mohair.
Connie MacDonald