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IN THE HEIGHTS, THE ENTREPRENEURIAL EXPERIMENT IS BREWING SOMETHING BEAUTIFUL.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ANNA TRAVERSE

Celebrate Spring Occasions

David Yurman

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Antique Jewelry

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The original Memphis family of fine jewelers

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FEATURES

Providing a safe haven for a precious — and gorgeous — insect. ~ by karen pulfer focht 28 Mississippi Day Tripping

Four destinations — all easy drives from Memphis — that are perfect for a springtime jaunt.

Babbie Lovett, Fashion Icon

Tennessee Ballet Theater honors her nine-decade legacy with its spring production. ~ by abigail

The author and illustrator’s debut essay collection will be published in May. ~ by

How Jerred Price rescued one of Memphis’ oldest homes. ~ by chris mccoy

Cxffeeblack is brewing something beautiful, and looking beyond challenges, toward community.

How a chance discovery led to this mechanic’s lifelong association with Elvis and his beloved cars. ~ by alex

70 SIPS Finding Balance

Teaching yoga and tending bar have a lot in common at The Second Line. ~ by bruce vanwyngarden

72 CITY DINING

The city’s most extensive dining listings.

80 LAST STAND #1 Record

Rankings and ratings and reviews. ~ by jon w. sparks SPECIAL SECTIONS

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april 2025

Coffee Connection

BY ANNA TRAVERSE

Like a lot of kids, I loved coffee’s aroma long before I could stand its taste: bitter, strange, and as off-putting to a young and delicate palate as whiskey, or kale. My parents drank the stuff every morning, without fail: nothing fancy — but then fancy coffee wasn’t really a thing in the ’80s and early ’90s — just dark-roasted beans from the clear-plastic dispenser at Seessel’s. I remember watching as they put an open paper bag to the mouth of the dispenser, then pulled the lever, sending a cascade of coffee downward. At home, I loved the sound and scent each morning as they ground the beans for their Chemex pour-over. I don’t really know why they preferred the pourover method (taste? Simplicity? Some early intuition about the perils of microplastics?); at the time, it was just another of their quirks.

My household’s lack of a Mr. Coffee was no more or less surprising than its lack of a microwave. (For that matter, we didn’t have a television until I was in kindergarten, and then only a 13-inch number that mostly collected dust.) My mom sent me to school in skirts she sewed using patterns from the fabric store. On Thursday evenings, when we cleaned the house, our reward repast was a baked potato and steamed spinach. And my idea of a treat was not dinner in front of the television, but rather “reading dinner” — when we all sat around the kitchen table reading our books. You could be forgiven for wondering if I am actually 120 years old.

Like a lot of kids, I didn’t care for coffee’s taste; like a lot of young adults, I learned to tolerate it to combat teenage sleep deprivation. By the time I was in high school, I was drinking café au lait each morning. My mom would warm the milk on an electric burner (still no microwave!) before driving me to school; I can see her now, standing at the stove in her robe, stirring the milk with a wooden

spoon to be sure it didn’t scald. I continued to be a daily coffee drinker in adulthood, but it wasn’t until I met my husband that my at-home coffee drinking turned fancy. I was content to buy grocery-store coffee and brew it in a sad old black-plastic coffee machine from a big-box store; it got the job done. But when I met Cameron, he already had an Illy espresso machine that he used most mornings; when our house caught on fire and most electronics had to be replaced, we swapped a Breville for the Illy. I was intimidated by both machines at first; the Breville still sometimes tests my patience, especially first thing in the morning, which tends to be when a person needs coffee most urgently. I don’t always get the espresso calibration quite right; it’s taken me years to become halfway proficient at milk-frothing for lattes. Most of the time, if he’s in town, Cameron is the family barista, which suits me just fine.

He’s also the one who goes to the farmer’s market most Saturdays, which is where he stocks up on the week’s supply of Cxffeeblack coffee. It’s noticeably more expensive than what we might buy at the grocery store — even the

expensive grocery store — but it’s so far superior as to be habit-forming. And unlike coffee from a big corporation, this is coffee grown by people who know the people who sold it to you. There’s a directness to the process that makes a very large world feel much smaller and more humane. I write more about that process in this month’s cover story.

From time to time, I’ll fall down an internet rabbit hole searching for images of what various food crops look like when they’re still growing. This habit started as mere curiosity, and a sense of how disconcerting it is, how displaced I feel when realizing that I can’t always call to mind an idea of what something in my grocery sack looked like in its more natural form. Can you envision a chickpea plant growing? What does tea look like before it’s harvested and roasted? Why does asparagus look so zombie-like when it’s sprouting out of the soil? Did you know that cinnamon is basically tree bark? How about stalks of Brussels sprouts: They might as well be Medieval weapons.

But coffee — I don’t know. Until all too recently, it eluded my curiosity. It was just … coffee. I relied on it each morning (and some afternoons), but didn’t devote much thought to where it grew, or how, or under what conditions — or, just as importantly, who grew it. Learning more about the people and places that produce that precious fuel has made me appreciate it more deeply, drink it with more reverence. I still rely on coffee to carry me through the hours, but it’s also, now, an opportunity for connection and curiosity. And I still, always, love the smell.

SAINT JOAN A chronicle of the heroism of French army leader Joan of Arc. TENNESSEE SHAKESPEARE COMPANY, APRIL 4-19

THE ICON, BABBIE LOVETT, FASHION LEGEND Tennessee Ballet Theater presents an homage to the life and legacy of one of Memphis’ most inﬂuential leaders of the past and the present. MCCOY THEATRE AT RHODES COLLEGE, APRIL 4-5, 7:30 P.M. | APRIL 6, 2:30 P.M. | APRIL 11-12, 7:30 P.M.

APRIL 2025

PUNK ROCK GIRL! Featuring songs by female-fronted bands like Blondie, Joan Jett, Avril Lavigne, and P!nk, this show celebrates all things rough, real, and unapologetically authentic. PLAYHOUSE ON THE SQUARE, THROUGH APRIL 13

“A JOURNEY INTO THE SHADOWS” Nelson Gutierrez’s three-dimensional cutout drawings confront the realities of migration and displacement. CROSSTOWN ARTS AT THE CONCOURSE, THROUGH MAY 11

“ENGORGING EDEN” Rachel David transforms everyday furniture into fragmented expressions of life’s chaos, joy, and loss. METAL MUSEUM, THROUGH MAY 11

“FROM THE ASHES” Maritza DávilaIrizarry integrates printmaking, mixed-media, photography, video, and remnants of her works from the ﬁre that destroyed her studio. CROSSTOWN ARTS AT THE CONCOURSE, THROUGH MAY 11

“SUPERNATURAL TELESCOPE” Danielle Sierra’s deeply personal and poetic reﬂection on memory, love, and spirituality. CROSSTOWN ARTS AT THE CONCOURSE, THROUGH MAY 11

“THE COLORS OF THE CARIBBEAN” Juan Roberto Murat Salas brings the rich visual traditions of his homeland to life through bold colors and dynamic compositions. CROSSTOWN ARTS AT THE CONCOURSE, THROUGH MAY 11

THOMAS DAMBO’S “TROLLS: SAVE THE HUMANS” International Paper presents this larger-thanlife fairytale, in which art and nature intertwine. MEMPHIS BOTANIC GARDEN, THROUGH MAY 21

BLACK VIOLIN: FULL CIRCLE TOUR Grammy-nominated duo Wil Baptiste and Kev Marcus redeﬁne the possibilities of music by merging classical depth with hip-hop’s pulse. ORPHEUM THEATRE, APRIL 1, 7:30 P.M.

REDBIRDS HOME GAMES See the Redbirds play at AutoZone Park vs. the Buffalo Bisons, Jacksonville Jumbo Shrimp, and Louisville Bats. AUTOZONE PARK, APRIL 1-6 | APRIL 15-20 | APRIL 29-30

MEET THE AUTHOR: PRESTON LAUTERBACH WITH ROBERT GORDON Novel welcomes Preston Lauterbach in conversation with Robert Gordon to celebrate the release of his new book, Before Elvis: The African American Musicians Who Made the King, which recognizes the Black musicians who inﬂuenced Elvis Presley’s music. MEMPHIS LISTENING LAB, APRIL 4, 6 P.M.

5 FRIDAYS OF JAZZ In partnership with the Memphis Library Foundation, 5 Fridays of Jazz ﬁnishes with a free concert by Stax Music Academy’s Phineas Newborn Jazz Ensemble, featuring Derrick Jackson. BENJAMIN L. HOOKS CENTRAL LIBRARY, APRIL 4, 6:30 P.M. LESSONS LEARNED: A TAP CONCERT Hot Foot Honeys explore the human experience through the universal language of dance. GERMANTOWN COMMUNITY THEATRE, APRIL 4, 7:30 P.M. | APRIL 5, 2:30 P.M., 7:30 P.M.

THE RIVER BRIDE Cazateatro Bilingual Theatre Group presents a charming story of mystery, love, and family! THEATREWORKS @ THE SQUARE, APRIL 4-20

MEET THE AUTHOR: LANDON BRYANT Novel welcomes viral sensation and TikToker Landon Bryant to celebrate the release of his new book Bless Your Heart: A Field Guide to All Things Southern. NOVEL, APRIL 7, 6 P.M.

SOME LIKE IT HOT Set in Prohibitionera Chicago, Some Like It Hot follows two musicians ﬂeeing mobsters after witnessing a hit. ORPHEUM THEATRE, APRIL 8-13

SILENT SKY The story of 19th-century astronomer Henrietta Leavitt. THEATRE MEMPHIS, APRIL 9-19

HOMECOMING Brothers Randall and Miles Goosby return to their hometown with their close friend and pianist Zhu Wang to present a concert of iconic chamber music works. HIGHLAND CAPITAL PERFORMANCE HALL, APRIL 10

MEET THE AUTHOR: DOLEN PERKINSVALDEZ Novel welcomes Dolen Perkins-Valdez to celebrate the release of her new novel, Happy Land. NOVEL, APRIL 11, 6 P.M. EASTER EGG HUNT Visit Elmwood Cemetery for an Easter egg hunt for children ages 2 through 10. Elmwood Cemetery, April 12, 9 a.m. 901 LIVE! Teven Lavell, Gerald Richardson, Larry Springﬁeld, Bird Williams, and more will grace the stage for a show-stopping performance. HALLORAN CENTRE, APRIL 12, 7 P.M.

MEMPHIS SYMPHONY BIG BAND FT. JOYCE COBB & PATRICE WILLIAMSON A mix of timeless classics and exciting new arrangements featuring two vocal powerhouses Joyce Cobb and Patrice Williamson. CROSSTOWN THEATER, APRIL 12, 7:30 P.M.

MARITZA DÁVILA “FROM THE ASHES”

”ENGORGING

RANDALL GOOSBY COMPILED

“SUMMER ART GARDEN: A FLASH OF SUN” Memphis-based artist and designer Khara Woods presents an installation of sun-drenched shades, dazzling patterns, and geometric sculptures. MEMPHIS BROOKS MUSEUM OF ART, APRIL 17–OCTOBER 20

MEMPHO PRESENTS: SHELL DAZE MUSIC FESTIVAL This year’s festival includes Lettuce, Daniel Donato’s Cosmic Country, Grace Bowers & Hodge Podge, and The Velvet Dogs. OVERTON PARK SHELL, APRIL 19, 3–10 P.M.

THE O’KAYS Set in the gritty, soulful landscape of 1970s Memphis, The O’Kays follows three young men on a thrilling journey to chase fame and fortune in the city’s booming R&B music scene. HALLORAN CENTRE, APRIL 19, 2 P.M., 7 P.M.

“COLLEEN COUCH AND DOLPH SMITH: WALK IN THE LIGHT” The joint exhibition showcases the arc of Dolph Smith’s oeuvre, new works by Couch inspired by Smith, and two recent collaborations by the two artists. THE DIXON GALLERY AND GARDENS, APRIL 20–JUNE 20 10-MINUTE PLAY FESTIVAL See stories about the Black experience that entertain and exhilarate audiences. HATTILOO THEATRE, APRIL 24–27

ANGELS IN THE ARCHITECTURE Ballet Memphis’ 38th season concludes with a double-bill of stunning works by master choreographers and composers. GERMANTOWN PERFORMING ARTS CENTER, APRIL 25–27

CAROLINE, OR CHANGE Amid the civil rights movement, Caroline Thibodeaux, a Black maid for a Jewish family, is trying to take care of her own family. PLAYHOUSE ON THE SQUARE, APRIL 25–MAY 18

COUGARS A captivating stage play set in the high-octane world of a Memphis car dealership. THEATREWORKS @ THE SQUARE, APRIL 25–MAY 4

RUMORS A 10th anniversary wedding celebration turns into chaos. THEATRE MEMPHIS, APRIL 25–MAY 11 ROAR & POUR Stroll through the zoo, sip on samples from various distilleries across Tennessee, and enjoy a night of great music, dancing, and delicious food. MEMPHIS ZOO, APRIL 25, 7 P.M.

To suggest an event for future editions of Out and About, email abigail@memphismagazine.com.

CLASSIC DINING

Villa Castrioti

The menu and décor haven’t changed much over the years, and that’s just fine with the current owners.

BY MICHAEL DONAHUE

In 1996, Joe Clarke, then a student at Christian Brothers High School, took his freshman homecoming date to Villa Castrioti. “Since I lived in Cordova, I wanted to take her to the fanciest restaurant,” he says. “It had just opened about ﬁve years earlier.”

Now an owner, along with Aron Pullen, Clarke remembers which table they occupied that night (table number two).He doesn’t remember what they ate, but whatever it was, he could still order it today. “We still run that original menu,” he says. Over the years they’ve added to the menu, “but ever so slightly, such as pork items with prosciutto and Italian sausage.” e décor hasn’t changed, either. “It’s like you just walked into your grandmother’s house and you’re about to eat dinner,” he says.

e dining room, in rich hues of green, gold, and burgundy, features ornate chandeliers and several plaster busts, including

Pullen, who has worked at Villa Castrioti for 27 years, began as a server and then became a bartender. He and Brian Leith bought the restaurant when the Papranikus decided to sell it in 2019. e new owners expanded the restaurant to include two more spaces next to the original one. ey have since opened two other Villa Castriotti locations, in Lakeland and Nashville.

A distinguishing feature of Villa Castrioti is the colorful, hand-painted mural behind the bars at all three locations. For subject matter, they try to feature a well-known Italian, such as a musician or actor. e Cordova mural includes Sophia Loren and members of the Papraniku family. e one at Lakeland features two movie stars: Marlon Brando as Don Corleone in e Godfather and Monica Bellucci, an Italian actress. In Nashville, the mural is centered around the diner scene with Al Pacino and Robert De Niro in Heat.

As for the food at Villa Castrioti, Clarke says, “ e menu is the same at all locations.” Executive chef Matt Brown oversees the kitchens at each restaurant. eir signature items are cannelloni castrioti (the meat is rolled up in a crepe instead of a manicotti noodle) and beef castrioti risotto, described by Clarke as “prime beef tenderloin over a mushroom risotto with some marsala wine sauce.”

the biscotti pudding created by server Tim Pullen, Aron’s brother. e culinary creation needs to be something they can implement in 30 minutes, Clarke says. “My challenge is making it. Let’s see what it looks like, tastes like.” e restaurant staff then pitches in, telling the originator whether it needs “more of this or that.” And after they nail it down, Clarke and Pullen say, ‘Sure, let’s execute it.’” “Papa Loves Mambo” and “Dancing Cheek to Cheek” are among recordings customers listen to while they dine. But live music is also a big part of Villa Castrioti. “We’ve always had live music in different parts of the bar area, and we offer it here five nights a week.”

What makes Villa Castrioti unique is “just the history of it,” Pullen says. “What it’s about. A person with a dream from Albania coming to America and opening a restaurant.” It also is his own American dream, Pullen says: opening a restaurant with no experience except what he learned beginning as a server.

a gold bust of Apollo. A statue of the goddess Hebe stands beside a small silver table in the foyer. “You can’t ﬁnd some of these vintage decorative items anymore unless it’s at an estate sale,” Clarke says. e business began in 1980 when Adam and Julie Papraniku opened “Castrioti by the Slice” in Hickory Ridge Mall. ey closed that and opened Villa Castrioti in its current location in 1989. “ ey’re from Albania,” says Clarke, “so it does have Albanian ﬂair blended with the Italian food. Our marsala is a more traditional wine sauce.” And the pizza “is not so Neapolitan style. It’s more like a thin-crust, hand-tossed pizza.”

Since 1989, they’ve added only three new permanent menu items: sorrentino, ziti Sicilian, and saltimbocca.Sorrentino includes chicken or veal cooked in a white wine scampi sauce with prosciutto and then mozzarella cheese melted over the top. Ziti Sicilian is made of rigatoni noodles with ricotta, marinara sauce, onions, peppers, and Italian sausage. ey also oﬀer oﬀ-the-menu item specials every week and feature a “secret menu,” Clarke says. “It’s just food we’ve done in the past,”including a 16-ounce ribeye, Faroe Island salmon, fried green tomatoes, calamari, and a 14-ounce bone-in veal chop.

He and Pullen also encourage their staﬀ to create new dishes. A recent special was

Villa Castrioti stands out because it covers all bases. A steakhouse offers steaks. Most Italian restaurants specialize in classic Italian dishes like veal Marsala or chicken piccata. Here, your date can get a prime filet with Maine lobster tails while you enjoy a New York-style pizza. “It’s not just your everyday Italian pizzeria or fine-dining restaurant,” says Pullen. “It’s everything in one, and everything is delicious. We use the best quality ingredients in every item.”

ey’re not stopping with just three Villa Castrioti locations, Clarke says. e three-year goal is to open another location in the greater Nashville area, he says, and the ten-year goal is to have seven restaurants in Tennessee, Arkansas, and Missouri.

But he doesn’t want to “dilute the brand name” by moving too fast. He wants to “keep the culture, the consistency, and the quality level of food” that people already love at Villa Castrioti.

Villa Castrioti has two locations in this area: 714 North Germantown Parkway #15 and 9861 Lake District Drive, North #101, in Lakeland

Joe Clarke

Aron Pullen

Barzizza Bros.

Our history expert solves local mysteries: who, what, when, where, why, and why not. Well, sometimes.

BY VANCE LAUDERDALE

DEAR VANCE: Do you remember the “international bazaar” market on Summer Avenue, just east of Avon? I believe it was owned by the Barzizza family. — D.P., MEMPHIS

DEAR D.P.: You partly answered your own question, and I don’t mind that a bit. e store you remember was called Barzizza’s, and it was indeed a type of “international bazaar,” the last retail venture of an enterprising Italian family who began with an imported food store here and turned it into a shopping extravaganza with three locations around the city.

Born in the late 1800s in the village of Bassignana in northern Italy, brothers Frank and Eugene Barzizza came to Mem-

phis in 1923 and opened an imported-foods grocery downtown at 176 North Main. It’s hard to describe the size or scope of their business very accurately, because the ﬁrst mention in the newspaper of Barzizza Bros., as they called their new venture, was a tiny advertisement promoting a three-pound can of something called Bosch’s Malt, “ e Daddy of ’Em All!”

Later ads concentrated on only two other products: cans of Superba chicken ravioli and Superba mushroom gravy, each described as a “palate-tingling delight” but both made “in a spotless modern plant in sunny California.” I don’t know about you, but when I think of imported foods, I expect them to come from farther away than

Saturday morning. Once you try it, it will be a popular favorite for the whole family.”

I presume they sold it by the slice, or the pound. If they sold the entire half-ton block to a single customer, I suspect after a while it might not be that family’s “popular favorite.” (“Not cheese sandwiches for dinner again, Mom!”)

After this dramatic oﬀering, the Barzizzas began to promote and sell an astonishing range of foods. Ads listed cheese, olives, olive oil, sardines, spiced meats, fruit, caviar, anchovies, and macaroni “in every conceivable shape.” And this time, the products didn’t come from California: “From sunny Italy, the vineyards of France, the mountainsides of Switzerland, the fertile valleys of Egypt, the plains of Spain, from England, from Africa, from South America comes the cream of the crops.”

Newspaper stories announced that “Barzi Brand” foods would be served at the brand-new Claridge Hotel, and the brothers even set up a display at the 1941 Mid-South Fair so visitors could see and sample their latest products. By the 1950s, Barzizza Bros. was booming; there was no other store in Memphis quite like it.

the West Coast.

Well, in 1932 Barzizza Bros. ﬁ nally gave Memphians a taste — quite literally — of a considerably more unusual offering. A newspaper story headlined “Here’s the Big Cheese” reported that a 1,035-pound block of cheddar cheese, “quite possibly the largest in the world,” had been on display in the store’s front windows for six months.

“Now, you may think that is too old for a cheese to hang around, but the Barzizza brothers, Frank and Eugene, declare the cheese, in the process of ripening, is just now at its delicious best.” e story didn’t mention the price, but lured shoppers by announcing the cheese “had an irresistible ﬂavor all its own, and this huge cake will be cut

After 40 years on North Main, the Barzizzas had to relocate when developers transformed several blocks in that area into the Civic Center Plaza. In 1963, they found a new home at South Front and Talbot, and expanded their business. Now they were the Barzizza Brothers International Trade Center, selling all sorts of merchandise, including food, furniture, gifts, and household accessories.

By this time, the company was also under the direction of different brothers. Eugene had retired in 1937 and returned to Italy. Frank’s son, Joseph, took over in 1946, and when Frank passed away in 1950, his son, Frank Jr., joined the ﬁrm.

In other words, during the 1950s and ’60s, Barzizza Bros. was now Frank and Joseph, and business remained steady. More growth took place in 1969, when the Barzizzas opened a second location on Walnut Grove Road, their spacious, ultra-modern store linked to the indoor, Colonial

The downtown store’s neon sign promoted ravioli and gravy.

American-themed Chickasaw Oaks Mall. A few years later, they opened a third store inside Southbrook Mall on Shelby Drive, across from this city’s ﬁrst indoor shopping center, Southland Mall.

A. Schwab’s on Beale Street has long advertised, “If you can’t find it here, you’re better off without it.” e same could be said about Barzizza Bros. ey still offered exotics foods, but added unusual gifts and unique furniture brought here from other lands.

Hard-to-miss advertisements in e Commercial Appeal enticed shoppers with photos of products like “ e Jacaranda Group,” a collection of wood and rattan furniture described as “Authentic! Rustic! Beautiful! Executed by skilled Mexican artisans … a point of conversation for the most discreet.” Other promotions promised “much to see from many

lands — teakwood, brass, ivory, ceramics, and wood carving, all at direct import prices!”

Of the two brothers, Frank seemed to maintain a higher profi le. A graduate of Christian Brothers High School and Santa Clara College in California, he and his wife, Ramona, often made the local society pages. He also began to appear in his company’s eye-catching newspaper ads, posing in front of shelves stacked with wrought-iron sconces, pierced brass boxes, hand-tooled leather-covered bottles, “enduring gifts of Italian alabaster” (ash trays, egg cups, cigarette boxes, and paperweights”), wine-making kits, and food. Barzizza Bros. wasn’t selling 1,035-pound blocks of cheese, but the food department still offered five-pound gift

boxes of “zesty cheddar cheese, a very tasteful and impressive gift,” along with “Mrs. Carver’s Home-Baked Fruit Cakes” in two-, three-, or ﬁve-pound cans.

In 1972, Barzizza Bros. reported more than a million dollars in annual sales. Everything changed, however, the following year, when the Barzizzas abruptly sold their stores to Pier 1 Imports, a national chain headquartered in Fort Worth. e exotic food selection vanished, for the most part, but unusual furniture, housewares, and gifts were available at the new stores.

I wonder if Frank grew bored with retirement. In 1977, he opened his own store on Summer. Joseph had passed away years before, so no brothers were involved; this location was known

shared

the time a customer came in, asking if they had any stuffed armadillos for sale. When he told her they didn’t and she asked where she might find one, he replied, “Look along the highway near Dallas.”

simply as Barzizza’s. e owner appeared in his ads, in one of them urging customers, “Relax in your own Buri settee woven by skilled Philippine craftsmen, or rattan chairs from Hong Kong and Malaysia. But what you’ll really ﬁnd ‘out of this world’ are our low direct import prices.”

Barzizza’s was popular, but it lasted less than ten years. In a newspaper story about the 1986 closing, Frank told reporters that import buying and selling had steadily become an unproﬁtable venture. A pair of intricately hand-carved Chinese chests, he said, “now sell for $628 when they sold for $1,200 just two years ago.”

Even so, it was certainly an interesting business. Barzizza shared a story about the time a customer came in, asking if they had any stuﬀed armadillos for sale. When he told her they didn’t, and she asked where she might ﬁnd one, he replied, “Look along the highway near Dallas.”

Mona passed away in 2000, and Frank died the following year;

they were laid to rest in Memorial Park. Other members of the Barzizza family are entombed in an impressive stone vault at Calvary Cemetery.

e location on South Front is still standing, but the three-story brick building has been modernized. Southbrook Mall, like so many other shopping malls here, closed years ago but has recently found new life as Southbrook Town Center. And the Pier 1 location on Walnut Grove is today AMUSE Adventure Museum.

e last Barzizza store, Frank’s place on Summer, is home to Memphis Professional Imaging.

Many Memphians, it seems, have fond memories of the quirky stores and the Barzizza family members who ran them. When Frank Barzizza passed away in 2001, local businessman William Heuttel, who had remained his friend since the ﬁrst grade, told reporters, “He was the hardest working guy I ever met. And he was the kind of person that when you met him, in ﬁve minutes you just really liked him.”

Got a question for Vance?

EMAIL: askvance@memphismagazine.com

MAIL: Vance Lauderdale, Memphis Magazine, P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101

ONLINE: memphismagazine.com/ask-vance Or visit him on Facebook from time to time.

Barzizza

a story about

Frank (left) and Joseph work the counter at the North Main Street store.

Note all the cans of olive oil in the food section.

Consolidation Misconstrued

Clarifying a governing concept and how to move on.

BY TOM JONES

Memphis is a mythic city. It took flight and invented modern global commerce. Its drinking water is the best in the country. Its entrepreneurs changed the way Americans traveled, stayed while on the road, and shopped. And its fusion of cultures brought together outsiders from the cotton ﬁelds and the farms to create music that became the soundtrack for the world.

British historian Peter Hall, in his tome, Cities in Civilization, told the history of Western civilization in the stories of 17 cities. Memphis was one of them. He wrote: “What the Memphis story ﬁnally shows is that the music of an underclass could literally become the music of the world … this was truly a revolution in attitudes and in behavior, as profound as anything that has happened in Western society in the last two hundred years.”

In addition to its mythic history, Memphis also has its share of actual myths — in sports, business, and even public policy. One of the latter is the belief that Memphis stands alone among major cities without a consolidated city-county government.

Many years ago, a leading CEO was speaking to Leadership Memphis about consolidating Memphis and Shelby County governments and said our community was being left behind by Nashville, Indianapolis, Dallas, Houston, Charlotte, and Atlanta because we are not consolidated. ing is, only two of those cities are actually consolidated, but the belief was so strong that everyone else had merged governments no one corrected him.

It’s not like Memphis and Shelby County aren’t consolidated for lack of trying. Three times we have voted. Three times it failed — 1962, 1971, 2010 — and when a business group flirted with it in 2021, it never gained serious traction.

The failures don’t make Memphis unique. Consolidation

has been rejected two times in Chattanooga, three times in Knoxville, and 19 of 22 times overall in Tennessee. Of the 50 largest U.S. cities, only nine have approved consolidated government since 1900 and the vast majority of all cities have the same city and county structure that we have here.

Often, it’s a crisis that triggers consolidation.

In Nashville, it failed in 1958 but was on the ballot again four years later when the crisis was aggressive annexation by the city of suburban residential property and creation of a wheel tax on all cars using the city’s streets. Suburban desires to have sewers and ﬁre protection and the strong support by the head of county government ultimately led to 56.8 percent support at the polls.

a uniﬁed community, and have municipal services funded by a more equitable tax burden.

“What the Memphis story finally shows is that the music of an underclass could literally become the music of the world … this was truly a revolution in attitudes and in behavior, as profound as anything that has happened in Western society in the last two hundred years.”

— Peter Hall

It is often said in Memphis that consolidation is why Nashville became a boom town; however, the city’s burst of growth did not take place until 30 years after the governments were merged.

Another oft-heard pro-merger campaign argument and one heard here is that the existing local government structure is unable to support the economic development vision needed by the community, and that consolidation is also a way to reduce urban turbulence, create

Successful consolidation campaign leaders caution against pitching consolidation on the premise of saving money, and this was not done in the 2010 effort here. As eWall Street Journal pointed out: “A number of studies — and evidence from past consolidations — suggest mergers rarely save money, and in many cases, they end up raising costs” because savings are often offset by the absence of scale economies and the averaging up of wages and service standards. When the smoke clears, about three out of every four consolidation votes in the United States go down in flames. It becomes even more challenging here because state law requires that it must be approved by voters inside Memphis in one tally and in a separate tally by voters outside Memphis. It has never passed outside of Memphis, and even inside Memphis, it has failed once and eked by in 2010. It’s hard to imagine what would lead voters outside Memphis to change their opinion about consolidation. After all, it was to get away from the city that led them to move away in the first place, and they see consolidation as giving Memphis power over them again.

In addition, for every successful consolidation like Nashville, there is a New Orleans, and it’s obvious that cities can be successful with all kinds of government structures. ere’s the city council–city manager form of government. It has a

political head — the mayor — but a professional manager who runs the day-to-day operations of the city. ink San Antonio, Dallas, Austin, and Charlotte. en there’s the two-tiered federated government model, most notably in Miami-Dade County. e lower tier delivers typical city services funded by city taxes while the upper tier delivers countywide services funded by county taxes like the airport, libraries, healthcare, and emergency services. ere are even places with a “weak mayor” and commission form of government like the one Memphis abolished in 1968. Portland, Oregon, had this structure until 2022. en too, there is the potential of a local government that is specifically defined for our community. It could rationalize the division of labor for Memphis and Shelby County governments. Services that are traditionally municipal — police and fire, for example — are placed under city government. Meanwhile, regional services — libraries, healthcare, and public transit — would be defined as services of Shelby County government, which becomes the de facto regional government funded by its larger tax base. In the absence of consolidating government, maybe answers could be found in a government modernization commission that puts all options on the table. If cities succeed with all kinds of governments, it underscores the obvious: In the end, what really matters most is quality of leadership.

Tom Jones is the principal of Smart City Consulting, which specializes in strategic communications, public policy development, and strategic planning. He tends the 20-year-old Smart City Memphis blog and is an author with experience in local government. He can be reached at tjones@ smartcityconsulting.com

Please join us for the 33rd Annual Entrepreneur Awards Presentation & Dinner

Please join us for the 32nd Annual Entrepreneur Awards Presentation & Dinner

Saturday, April 26, 2025 6:00 pm

Saturday, April 20, 2024 6:00 pm

FedEx Event Center at Shelby Farms Parks

HONORING THE INDUCTION OF ITS NEW MEMBERS

Chris Brubaker • Fred Grinder • Brett Grinder

William B. Dunavant III • Mark H. George

J. Allen Scoggin • William Stegbauer

Justin Grinder • Stacy McCall AND HONORING

Robert G. McEniry RECIPIENT OF THE 2024 MASTER ENTREPRENEUR AWARD

David & Maryanne Andrews

For

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JOINT EFFORT

SHOULDERS. HIPS. KNEES .

HOW CAN WE LIVE MORE COMFORTABLY WITH OUR ACHY JOINTS?

WE ASKED THE MEMPHIS GRIZZLIES’ TEAM DOCTOR FOR ADVICE.

BY FRANK MURTAUGH

Whenever I experience joint discomfort, my thoughts turn to e Wizard of Oz and, speciﬁcally, the Tin Man. As a knee or shoulder protests a certain motion, I’d like a doctor, or a friend, or my wife — anyone, please — to simply squirt a little oil on the area in need … and I’ll be on my way.

Human joints don’t operate on oil, alas. When functioning properly a knee — or shoulder, elbow, or ankle — is a rather brilliant biological mechanism, multiple bones working in coordination with muscles and connective tissue, allowing us to reach our favorite coffee mug on the top shelf, or cross the finish line of a 5K with no more discomfort than some heavy breathing. But when aggravated or jarred severely, inflammation can occur in that connective tissue. And this is where the problems start.

“A lot of things can cause [joint pain], and some of them are physiologic, or normal parts of everyday life,” explains Dr. Tom Giel, a sports-medicine specialist with OrthoSouth and, not incidentally, the team physician for the Memphis Grizzlies. “You’ve overdone it, didn’t sleep enough the night before, or overworked a joint and it’s sore. That happens to all people through the middle-age spectrum.

“But there are also some pathologic conditions — disease processes — that can cause this as well. Inﬂammatory arthritis is a real problem in that middle-age range, because that’s when it will rear itself for the ﬁrst time.”

e diﬀerence is measured between, say, knee soreness for a couple of days, and the same kind of soreness for three or four weeks, without gradual reduction in pain.

Giel has a pair of factors to consider if you’re deciding to involve a doctor for help with a barking joint. “If it’s gone several days, or beyond a week and is still symptomatic, that’s one benchmark,” he says. “Another would be if the pain is significantly interrupting your day-to-day life. Difficulty at your job, difficulty sleeping, difficulty playing with your kids, or difficulty playing a sport you enjoy. If not playing the sport eliminates the pain, that’s not a victory.”

Back to the root of the problem: inﬂ ammation. Why do tissues in our body become aggravated, and why do they let us know in such an uncomfortable fashion? “It’s a chemical process that’s part of our immune system,” notes Giel. “Our bodies recognize an injury or damage, and we release chemicals that increase blood ﬂow to an area. It then makes the area swollen and warm. ose same chemicals irritate the nerves in the area, which causes the pain.”

Joints are distinctive when it comes to functionality in that they can produce sounds: snaps, crackles, and pops that echo a certain breakfast cereal. But Giel says these noises

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aren’t typically signs of damage, and shouldn’t cause worry. “It’s very normal,” emphasizes Giel. “If it doesn’t cause pain or interfere with your everyday life, ignore it. [The sounds are made by] tissues gliding by each other.”

When it comes to the primary joint groups — shoulders, elbows, hips, knees, and ankles — Giel identifies a primary culprit when it comes to his patient count. “Anything that moves can have a problem, but the most common joints to cause problems are your knees,” he says. “They’re doing more work. If we walked on our hands, our elbows would be more of a problem.”

There are various forms and degrees of treatment for joint discomfort, from the simple (rest) to the complicated (surgery). Giel cites an easy-to-remember acronym for the first stage of treatment: RICE (rest, ice, compression, elevation). “It’s helpful to calm joints down,” he notes. “And with rest, I don’t mean complete cessation of activity. But take it down a notch. Take a break from an activity that aggravates the area.” Over-the-counter anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDS like ibuprofen or naproxen) can bring temporary relief, as long as a person doesn’t have underlying conditions that prevent them from using such medicine.

A mysterious condition we’ve come to call “frozen shoulder” causes the tissues in that joint capsule to thicken so much that an arm loses significant mobility. (I’ve suffered bouts with each of my shoulders, both lasting about three months.) It seems counterintuitive, but the ailment requires accessing the pain … and pushing through it as much as one can tolerate.

“It’s a common condition,” says Giel. “It’s unique in that it is not truly an inflammatory condition. The lining of the shoulder — for reasons we physicians still don’t understand — decides to scar itself and limit the motion of that joint. Treatment is slow, deliberate stretching. You put a little pressure on the area, knowing you won’t fix it in a day.”

That stretching of a frozen shoulder speaks to the general treatment plan for any joint problem, as rest does not mean inactivity. To emphasize, our bodies are healthier when

Freaking the %#$@ out?

they’re in motion, and our joints allow that motion. Bottom line: Joints must move (or be forced to move), for us to move. “We want to exercise [uncomfortable] joints, and start to strategically load them again,” emphasizes Giel. “ at’s why we use so much physical therapy for people with joint pain. Exercise will make a considerable diﬀerence for the vast majority of joint complaints.”

IFamily

Grief

f joint pain reaches a debilitating level — that right hip forces a limp every time you take a step — replacement surgery can be a solution. And while every form of surgery is a dramatic step toward healing, joint replacement shouldn’t cause great fear. Hips and knees are being replaced every day, often with rave reviews by those walking away with new equipment. “It’s a treatment for arthritis,” says Giel. “ e joint has become damaged over time. ere are a lot of biological components that go into arthritis. When your pain reaches a point where we can’t control it with the little things, it’s time to consider joint replacement.

“ ese procedures are very common now,” he continues. “Because of improvements in technology, they are, by and large, safer. ey last longer. And the vast majority can be done on an outpatient basis. You can have surgery today then go home and spend the night with your family. People suﬀering arthritis are in so much pain, and they feel so good afterwards. e most common thing people say to me after they have a replacement procedure is, ‘I can’t believe I waited so long.’”

If your joints are cooperating today, consider them assets to protect. Instead of allowing a certain twist or fall to change the way you move, prioritize those assets in your daily exercise regimen. According to Giel, the best forms of exercise are those that ﬁt your lifestyle, the activities you already enjoy so you will, presumably, continue to do on a regular basis.

“Whether it’s walking or jogging or playing pickleball or lifting weights,” explains Giel, “if you do it, that’s better than the exercise you talk about doing, but don’t do. If you’re wondering if you should avoid exercise to avoid injury, the answer is almost always no.”

Basketball involves a lot of jumping and twisting for a middle-aged body. But if you’ve played for years, stay on the court. e same goes for tennis (a common injury-causing sport, simply because so many middle-aged people play it). Giel’s lone warning when it comes to exercise is to avoid overdoing it: “If tomorrow, having never jogged at all, I decide to run a marathon, I could seriously damage myself. Taking our time, going in slowly, and being smart about how we do it is the best way to prevent an exercise-induced injury.”

As it turns out, no oilcan is required for achy joints. Attention and activity are enough.

Live sounds on the square and everywhere.

From big festivals (Slugburger and otherwise), concerts, and musical theater to the fun local flavor of Pickin’ On The Square, there’s always great music happening in Corinth. Make plans for your tune-filled trip at Corinth.net.

CHASING BUTTE R F LIES

PHOTOS AND STORY BY KAREN PULFER FOCHT

Every year Memphis attracts thousands of visitors looking for good hosts. They need a safe place to rest and a little sweet treat to fuel their journey.

Monarch butterﬂies, the beautiful orange- and black-winged insects, are seeking places to stay, and it’s becoming a challenge because they are facing extinction. In the 1990s, the Xerces Society, which monitors insects and invertebrates, estimated more than 700 million monarchs made their annual migration across the U.S. from Canada to Mexico. In parts of the country, they have seen that number reduced by as much as 90 percent.

The primary threats to our fragile monarch friends are habitat loss, pesticides, and extreme weather. As we pave over farmland to make room for suburban and urban growth, millions of acres of milkweed have disappeared from our landscape

Memphians can help. By offering a little space with just a milkweed plant or two, or creating an entire garden targeted at pollinators, we can become excellent hosts. As they pass through, monarchs search for milkweed to lay their eggs and sweet nectar plants to eat.

Jill Maybry with Memphis Botanic Garden has been growing

milkweed for monarch butterﬂies for the past 20 years. She also raises wild monarchs in protective butterﬂy nets and releases them once they emerge.

Maybry says monarchs have the best success with common milkweed, (Asclepias syriaca) and showy milkweed (Asclepias speciosa) and they both grow well in Memphis. “Be aware these may be a little untidy looking for formal gardens,” she says. “These plants emerge in spring from winter dormancy earlier than other milkweeds, so they are often the only variety that monarchs can ﬁnd when they pass through Memphis in the spring.”

Sydney Calderon at Lichterman Nature Center agrees that “monarch caterpillars eat exclusively milkweed, so having those plants is vital.”

Lichterman has a native plant sale April 11th and 12th where they will have several native milkweeds and butterﬂy milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa).

for more information:

Milkweed Market at Monarch Watch (monarchwatch.com)

Xerces Society (xerxes.org)

North American Butterﬂy Association (naba.org)

❚ top: A monarch butterﬂy passes through Memphis on Sunday, October 13, 2024, during its migration.

❚ left: Monarchs rely on milkweed (shown orange and yellow) as a host plant for their larvae.

❚ above: Once a caterpillar is discovered on the milkweed, it can be moved into a protective collapsible monarch

butterﬂy habitat that will shield it from predators. The caterpillar climbs to the top of the habitat, where it hangs upside down, in a J-shape, before spinning a silk pad. After about 10-14 days it emerges from its chrysalis. The day the chrysalis gets ready to split, it darkens and the monarch wing pattern begins to show through.

The butterfly emerges and will be ready to fly away after about two hours, when its wings dry. The entire process from egg to butterfly takes about four to five weeks.A monarch caterpillar has a huge appetite and eats milkweed leaves almost constantly, consuming 200 times its body weight.

Mississippi Day Tripping

These four destinations — all easy drives from Memphis — are perfect for Saturday jaunts in springtime.

BY CHRIS MCCOY

With no more ice storms in the forecast, and summer vacation still out of reach, a weekend day trip might be just the ticket to clear your head but not your wallet. When we’re looking for a change of scenery, we often find ourselves steering toward the smaller gems of Mississippi: Greenville, Tupelo, Corinth, and even (wonderfully named) Yazoo City.

TUPELO

Tupelo’s most famous son is, of course, Elvis Aaron Presley, and many places in this North Mississippi town are dedicated to his memory. The Elvis Presley Birthplace Museum in Tupelo is a shrine to the King of Rock-and-Roll. The two-room house was built in 1934 by Vernon Presley, with $180 he borrowed from

his employer. The next year, Gladys Presley gave birth to Elvis and his stillborn twin, Jesse, in the house. They lived in the modest lodgings while Elvis learned to sing and play three chords on his guitar, just enough to sing “Old Shep” for a local radio talent show when he was ten years old. The Pentecostal church where the Presley

worshiped has been moved to the site.

In downtown Tupelo, a statue of Elvis stands in approximately the same place as he performed at a homecoming concert in 1957, where a famous photograph was taken of the singer reaching out to his fans.

Tupelo has a surprisingly varied restaurant scene, with dozens of small eateries dotting the town. The Bulldog Burger Company has the best beef in town, with a huge selection of craft beers, both local and national.

GREENVILLE

This historic city by the banks of the Big Muddy is rich in history. If pre-history is your thing, you

can visit the Winterville Mounds, a Mississippian-era Native American site that was a thriving city almost a thousand years ago.

For more recent history, nearby Leland’s most famous son is Jim Henson. The Muppet creator left behind a legacy of joy, and it all began in rural Mississippi. “The Birthplace of the Frog: An Exhibit of Jim Henson’s Delta Boyhood” is a collection of unique Muppet memorabilia and artifacts. The site of the museum on Deer Creek is near where Henson played as a child, dreaming up a special frog friend.

Tamales are hot in Greenville. If you can’t wait for the Hot Tamale Festival

Winterville Mounds near Greenville

family

Elvis statue in Tupelo Corinth Contraband Camp

in October, grab a wrap at Hot Tamale Heaven. For a more varied menu, Doe’s Eat Place in downtown Greenville has tamales and so much more. If it’s getting late in the day and you don’t want to drive back to Memphis, Hotel 27 on Walnut Street, operated by Main Street Greenville, is a charming boutique hotel where you can take a load off for the evening.

CORINTH

One hundred and sixty-three years ago this month, the unremarkable town of Pittsburg Landing, Tennessee, became the focus of history. Two Union divisions under General Ulysses S. Grant were camping by the Tennessee River when they were

surprised by the Confederate Army of Mississippi on April 6, 1862. It would become the deadliest day in American history, with more soldiers dying and wounded than in all of the United States’ wars combined up to that point. The battle would later become known as Shiloh, after a nearby church whose name means “peace” in Hebrew. The Shiloh National Military Park is only a couple of hours’ drive from Memphis, and despite its dark history, it’s a beautiful place for a spring walk in the country.

General Grant’s destination was Corinth, Mississippi, which at that time was a bustling railroad hub. First, the Confederate armies mustered there, then the Union Army

staged there for its assault on Vicksburg. That’s when the Corinth Contraband Camp sprang up. After the Emancipation Proclamation in September 1862, General Greenville Dodge set up a refugee camp for escaped slaves. The Corinth Contraband Camp was the first taste of freedom for many people after a lifetime of enslavement by the planter class. In 1863, the camp was relocated to Memphis, marking the beginning of our era as a majority Black city.

YAZOO CITY

So, you’re looking to get wet, or put your boat in the water for a spin, but you’ve been to Reelfoot and

Horseshoe and Pickwick. You can try another, lesser-known lake in the area, called by the locals in Yazoo, Mississippi, “The Best Kept Secret in the Delta.” The 18,000-acre, 15-mile-long Wolf Lake is eight miles north of Yazoo City. Two boat ramps provide access to some of the best crappie and bass fishing in the Delta. If you want to stay overnight, M.J.’s Cabins are located right on the water, which come with free rental kayaks to explore the shoreline.

Looking for something a bit less rustic? The Main Street Hotel in colorful downtown Yazoo City delivers. While you’re there, cool down with an exceptional sno-cone from Wicked Ice.

Yazoo City Main Street

Babbie Lovett, Fashion Icon

Tennessee Ballet Theater honors the Memphian’s nine-decade legacy with its spring production.

BY ABIGAIL MORICI

Summer begins on June 21st. It’s the longest day of the year, with the most continuous daylight. It’s also Babbie Lovett’s birthday, a fitting day, her friends say, because she is full of light. This summer, she’ll turn 93.

About two-and-a-half years ago, Babbie Lovett went blind. For a creative who’s built a name for herself as a model, show producer, store owner, and mentor in Memphis’ fashion industry — a very visual field — her blindness is, as she says, “inconvenient. It’s one of the most interesting times of my life. It’s a real journey of learning.”

To keep things simple, these days, she opts to wear an all-black ensemble. “That becomes my basic,” she says. “I try to remember scarves or different accessories that I put on top to make it happen. And I have so much stuff, but I’m just having a hard time now knowing what I look like because I haven’t seen myself for two years. And I have to laugh. I was a very beautiful person with makeup, and now I can’t wear makeup.

“Maturity teaches you that everything shifts. Everything that was perky becomes droopy. Maturity is kind of funny in that way. In fact, if it wasn’t happening to me, I’d write a funny book about it. But I’ve been so blessed, and every 10 years everything is changing, and I love change. …

“To me, life is a show,” she continues. “I love a beginning, a middle,

and an end. And then sometimes it’s a soap opera, and it just keeps going. The beautiful thing about life is it goes on.”

As Lovett embraces this chapter of her life, Tennessee Ballet Theater (TBT) is preparing to honor the last nine decades of her many-chaptered life with The ICON, Babbie Lovett, Fashion Legend this April. Directed by Erin Walter, TBT’s artistic director, and with works choreographed by Max Robinson and Steven Prince Tate, the ballet will traverse the “peaks and valleys” of a long and active life, with four ballerinas representing Lovett. “There are 15 dances, and some are literal depictions of aspects of her life,” Walter says. “ome are abstractions from things that we were inspired by.”

This production will be the fifth installment of TBT’s “901 Stories,” which has brought to life histories through dance, including those of Earnestine & Hazel’s, the Annesdale Mansion, the Medicine Factory, and the Jack Robinson Gallery. “We like to celebrate things about Memphis that maybe people don’t know,” Walter says. “Maybe half of Memphis knows who Babbie is, but the other half doesn’t.”

Walter herself met Lovett when she was 13. “I modeled for her for a show at the Racquet Club, and I remembered Babbie for her statuesque beauty and her commanding presence,” she says. “I would see her around town and think, ‘Oh, that’s Babbie.’ But she was so intimidating to me that I never said anything to her, and now I can’t believe that I ever felt that way because she’s the most disarming, unassuming person.”

And to Walter, at least, Lovett is Memphis history.

opposite page, left to right: Babbie Lovett with pink scarf, Lovett in stripes and dots, Lovett with paisley dress and fur, and Lovett with black and white shoes.

right: Tennessee Ballet Theater dancer Dasha Andrienko in Lovett’s orange Connie Fails jumpsuit.

Born in 1932 amid the Great Depression, in McCrory, Arkansas, Lovett spent her childhood playing “Let’s Pretend.” “When I was a little girl, there was no television, there were no pictures except movies,” she says. “I sat in front of that radio and heard the program Let’s Pretend. There were stories to tell; I could see those stories and the characters.”

Inspired by these tales, she would reenact what she remembered, perched in her grandmother’s walnut tree on her family’s farm. “I could climb up — it had a big V, and it was almost like I was on a stage. I would sit up there from the time I was about 3 or 4 years old.”

The stage called to her, even before then. “I learned to sing and dance my own way before I could walk,” Lovett says. Dance, though, was her first love, with her formal education beginning when she was 8 — in tap first, then ballet.

Even before Walter approached her to do The ICON, dance has proven to be a throughline in her life. That’s how she fell in love with her late husband, Paul. They met at a fraternity party at Rhodes College, then Southwestern. “He was so adorable,” she says. “He came over and asked me to dance, and the minute he did, I knew I was going to marry this man.”

Paul was the perfect dance partner for Lovett — in life, she would find out, but importantly on the dance floor that night. “I fell in love with him that night,” she says. “We married at the end of my sophomore year. We’d only known each other for about eight months, but I knew it from that night on. It took him about a week.”

Their first dance will be recreated in The ICON to Joyce Cobb’s “This Joint Is Jumping.” “I thought it was so interesting that moving was so important to her, expressing herself through moving,” Walter says.

“It still is,” Lovett adds. She’s kept up her dancing her entire life, taking a hip-hop class even in her eighties. “Hip-hop is the toughest of all dancing. It’s so hard.”

Even today, she’s still dancing. “I may be as blind as a bat, but in my head I’m just going to keep dancing,” she says. “There’s certain music I hear. I get up at night and sometimes I hold on to my walker and dance. And sometimes I hold on with one hand and pause there and we dance — Paul and I.

“There’s a song that I love called ‘Young at Heart’ [by Frank Sinatra], and I think that sums me up pretty well. I’m still a kid inside, but the outside is a little weary.”

Growing up, Lovett knew of two heavens: Big Heaven and Little Heaven. Big Heaven was Goldsmith’s department store and Little Heaven was Levy’s Ladies Toggery clothing store, both on Main Street.

Her father, G.L. Morris, successful in the cotton industry, would sometimes bring her and her mother from their home in McCrory across the old bridge to Memphis, while he brought cotton samples to sell downtown. “We’d come down Riverside Drive, down Beale Street, turn left to go down Main Street,” Lovett says today. “He would say, ‘Cornelia’ —my mother’s name — he’d say, ‘Cornelia, do you want to stop at Big Heaven or Little Heaven?’”

He’d then drop them off at Cornelia’s chosen heaven, then visit the cotton markets himself. “And we would shop all day, have lunch, and have a wonderful time,” Lovett says.

From these trips that began practically as early as she can remember, she fell in love with Memphis. “And I’ve loved it passionately ever since.”

“Memphis has always been my New York,” Lovett says. “It was the heart

of fashion because of the National Cotton Council [of America, which was launched in Memphis in 1938 as a lobby and trade organization for cotton production,] and the Maid of Cotton at Carnival Memphis. It was where the designers came from New York to Memphis, and that’s how I got involved. It was such a fashion center, and my prayers are that we make it that again.”

Lovett started her modeling career in ’58 after her son was born. “I was almost 30 years old,” she says. She’d begun sporting a shorter haircut when her friend Louise Hayes, a fashion coordinator at Goldsmith’s, asked if she’d do a photoshoot for the fashion week the stores and specialty shops put on at the time. After that, the modeling opportunities snowballed. Goldsmith’s and Levy’s wanted her for trunk shows, where she’d model clothes designers brought in.

“At that time, I was a dancer, so my body was in pretty good shape,” Lovett says. “I could turn clothes around and wear them backwards if I had to. I knew how to make the clothes look good. When the designers would bring their collections, they liked what I did, and some of them invited me to do their shows in New York. At that time, they were not runway shows. They were done in the showrooms, and it was done for the buyers.

Modeling was different in the ’60s than what it would become in future decades, Lovett says. “There’s a difference between the pageant of being a beauty queen and a model. A model is a hanger for clothes. If you can make the clothes look good, that’s what makes a good model. Basically the reason models in the beginning had to be tall and skinny was because of the camera. But now, models can be any size because of the way the culture has changed. Things are changing. I think it’s for the better.”

Lovett did her last show six months ago for the Madonna Learning Center’s annual fashion show fundraiser. “To me, the most important thing was doing shows, and I love to do fundraisers,” she says. Whether it was for the Madonna Learning Center, which serves children and adults with special needs, or the Baddour Center, a residential and learning community for adults with intellectual disabilities, she says working with nonprofits has been the most rewarding part of her fashion career.

That’s how Lovett became involved with Memphis City Beautiful, who asked her to put on its annual “trashion” shows from 2011 to 2019, where designers collected materials from dumpsters and curbs to create couture masterpieces for the runway. From it, she met many mentees, including Paul Thomas, who would become the “Recycle King” of Memphis and who is designing the set pieces for The ICON

Lovett’s affinity for good causes is also why she was happy to work with the Tennessee Ballet Theater, whose Frayser Dance Project, now in its fourth year, offers free dance classes to students in the Frayser neighborhood. Sponsored by Nike and Alliance Healthcare, profits from The ICON will go to the Frayser Dance Project.

“That’s why I’m so excited about being a part of all of this,” she says, “because the funds that are raised when you do shows, if you get people interested, then you can get the contributions you need to preserve the arts or give people an opportunity that they didn’t have before.” Someone asked me, ‘What do you do?’ I said, ‘I’m a professional volunteer.’ And need income to volunteer, and so I’ve always tried to do things that gave me enough income that I could follow my passion, which is fashion and volunteering.”

When her husband died in 1987, Lovett ran his liquid fertilizer business, one of the first in the country. She owned clothing stores in Memphis and Arkansas. She even helped influence Hillary Clinton’s style when she and Bill moved into the Arkansas Governor’s Mansion in 1979. She produced a TV show in Little Rock, called Love Rock, to promote Arkansas musicians. She produced the Tony-nominated Broadway show Violet in 1997. “I went from learning how to get the rights for the book that the play was based on to handling all the legal aspects of it,” she says.

Over the years, Lovett also began working with the University of Memphis department of art and design, mentoring students in fashion and speaking to classes. Vincent Williams, a student in the program, is creating design elements for The ICON, making feathers out of packing foam in homage to the trashion that Babbie made chic in Memphis through her shows with Memphis City Beautiful.

The list of Lovett’s accomplishments goes on, her impact in fashion and the arts extending beyond Memphis.

These last 10 years, all my dreams seem to be coming true,” Lovett says, “because I’ve always wanted my collection to be used for education or for fundraising. It just thrills me to know that Tennessee Ballet was interested in it.”

Memphis Brooks Museum of Art has also taken interest in her collection. “They’ve taken 21 of my pieces, and hopefully at some point they’re going to use it as a fashion institute when they move downtown,” she says. “That’s a dream of mine, to have a fashion institute in Memphis similar to the one that’s in New York.”

Her collection of clothing, she estimates, consists of 2,000 to 3,000 garments. “I’ve got a house full and three apartments full of racks,” she says. “I’ve got racks just crammed full. My fashions are very basic. Everything can be worn anytime, and I think most of my collection can be worn today. You can always tell whether it’s the ’50s or the ’60s by the way the fit or the little signature of each decade.

“It’s like I have a whole box of paints and crayons that I can use. I can still put a show together for you if I can feel it. I put the show together for the University of Memphis [last year: “Memphis Fashion Through the Decades”]. I had 40 pieces. Most of the stuff I’m having to do by feel.”

For The ICON, Walter has incorporated pieces from Lovett’s collection in two numbers. “It thrills me because [the pieces in] my collection are really my friends,” Lovett says. “All of my clothes have a story with them. And they’ve never been worn but maybe once or twice, or most of them have been made for shows. And to see them dance just thrills me to death.”

A few pieces will also be on display as will Sue Ambrose’s couture designs constructed from bicycle tires. Old phones will be set up that, when picked up, will answer with recordings of Babbie telling stories from her life, moments not included in the show that, Walter says, “She says in a much better way than I was able to write [for the show’s monologues between the dances].”

In the meantime, Lovett looks forward to experiencing the ballet. “My talent has always been able to feel an audience, and to be able to see that audience was wonderful. But to be able to feel that audience now is also a gift, so I’m looking forward to feeling and hearing the show.

“One of the things that I first started loving was listening to the radio and now that I’m blind, I’m listening again. So it’s almost like a full circle for me. I think life’s a circle; life continues. There are different characters on the stage, but the stage is the same.”

See The ICON: Babbie Lovett, Fashion Legend, sponsored by Alliance Healthcare Services, at the McCoy Theatre at Rhodes College, Babbie Lovett’s alma mater, on April 4th and 5th at 7:30 p.m., April 6th at 2:30 p.m., and April 11th and 12th at 7:30 p.m. Tickets are $45 and can be purchased at tennesseeballettheater.com.

left: Tennessee Ballet Theater dancer Olivia Bran in Lovett’s Gabriele Knecht coat.

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MARTHA PARK’S WORLD

The author and illustrator’s debut essay collection will be published in May.

BY DAVID WATERS

Every now and then, when she was younger, Martha Park would find herself in one of her father’s sermons. “I’m using you in my sermon today,” the Rev. Don Park would tell her before the service. Martha would sit in a pew with her mother, “anxious to see how I’d show up, in what version of myself, in what ways he saw me.”

Park, who as a child in Memphis “never lived more than a parking lot away from a church,” tells the story in her new book, World Without End: Essays on Apocalypse and After, which will be published in May by Hub City Press.

“I wonder how it changed me,” Park writes, “to know my father had his eyes on me, to know some vision of me might show up in a sermon on Sunday. I wonder how it changed him, to look down at the pews and see me there, notebook open on my lap, waiting for him to say what I’d been thinking all along.”

Park, now 36, has been sitting with her notebook open, writing and drawing, thinking and wondering about God and faith, the church and the world since she was a child in a pew.

Her book is more than a collection of essays and illustrations by a preacher’s kid. It’s the journal of an open-hearted, curious soul during a time of political turmoil and climate change in what Flannery O’Connor called “the Christ-haunted South.”

e book’s title is drawn from the Gloria Patri, also known simply as the doxology. It’s a 30-word declaration of faith sung during many mainline Christian worship services: “Glory be to the Father, and to the Son, and to the Holy Ghost: as it was in the beginning, is now and ever shall be, world without end, amen.”

Park grew up singing that tiny hymn every week in one

of several United Methodist congregations her father served over the years, in and near Memphis. e words “world without end” are an aﬃ rmation of the eternal nature of the Trinity. For Park, they also are a declaration of her concern for — and hope in — the eternal nature of creation itself.

“ is era of mass extinctions, biodiversity loss, and increasingly frequent and extreme natural disasters ... has driven the resurrection to the front of my mind,” Park writes in an essay on the search for the probably extinct ivory-billed woodpecker in the woods and marshes of eastern Arkansas.

Park is drawn to such topics and places where people “have sensed something sacred, where the space between heaven and earth — and time itself — seems to grow thin.” She wonders about creation and evolution as she tells the story of a preacher who claimed he found remnants of Noah’s Ark in northern Florida, and considers the plight of the Florida Torreya, one of the oldest and rarest tree species on earth.

She thinks about sin and repentance as she compares nineteenth-century watercolors of the “unknown and

Park is trying to make sense of the contradictions between the moderate, mainline Christianity she grew up in and the “end-times” evangelical Christian subculture that surrounds her.

undocumented” frontier of the South to the rapidly changing landscapes of a “South plundered by extractive industry and exploitive labor.”

She ponders mortality and eternity, and care of body and soul, as she visits a growing number of conservation cemeteries across the South.

She considers her own responsibility and complicity as a person of faith in a fallen world, reflecting on “the summer I spent pregnant, in a global pandemic, in record heat, floating in my parents’ above-ground pool, while someone, somewhere — I knew with absolute certainty — was dying of thirst.”

Such are the faith-based thoughts of a young daughter, wife, and mother raised where “there was no separation from the church and our home, from faith and daily life.”

For Park’s father, who retired in 2019 after four decades in the pulpit, faith “was about the inner and outer transformation, about resisting empire and oppression, and about prophetic imagination and building healthy communities,” she writes.

weeks learning about drawing, and campaigning to save the orca whale.

As a high school student, she won a national writing competition with a letter to novelist J.D. Salinger about her hometown’s lost innocence.

As a college student, she bypassed the beach to spend one spring break on a bus tour of civil rights landmarks in the South.

Her mother, Sherry Lear-Park, who worked for years in donor relations for ALSAC/St. Jude and also retired in 2019, “made life decisions based on whether they made her feel closer to God or farther away,” Park writes.

Martha inherited the “painstakingly moderate tradition” of her mainline Methodist parents. She also inherited her creative mother’s love for art, and her contemplative father’s love for words.

“Like Sherry, Martha has an element of the free spirit. They’ve both got this gentle laugh that puts others at ease,” says the Rev. Dr. Lee Ramsey, a retired seminary professor, United Methodist pastor, and a longtime family friend. “Like Don, Martha has a quiet, reflective side to her personality and her writing. She thinks deeply about life, God, her place in the world, and the inevitable tensions of life and faith.”

As an elementary school student, Park spent

“I saw in her a rare maturity and awareness that all was not well with the world,” says Judy Kitts, who was Park’s ninthgrade CLUE English teacher at White Station High School. “She listened and observed more than she talked, and never drew attention to herself.”

Like many writers and observers, Park is uncomfortable talking or writing about herself. She began writing her book as a memoir, the story of a preacher’s daughter who left home and church to go to college, then returned a decade later to both, to witness her retiring father’s last year in the pulpit.

“I wanted to examine my own relationship with faith,” Park says. “But I realized I’m not a memoir writer. I have to sit and write to really think through something, but I need to be talking to other people to figure out what I’m actually thinking. I don’t feel like I’m a person with a lot of opinions or beliefs until I start talking to people and realize how I react.”

In her book, the would-be memoirist becomes a journalist. She interviews ministers and scientists, landowners and farmers, conservationists and creationists, and other mothers and daughters as she travels from one sacred Southern space to another.

Even the stories she tells about herself — stories about her parents and grandparents, her big sister, Courtney, her husband, Colin Lee, and his evangelical family, the complications of her first pregnancy — are means to larger ends.

Park is trying to make sense of the contradictions between the moderate, mainline Christianity she grew up in and the “end-times” evangelical Christian subculture that surrounds her.

SATURDAY

Park the person can’t help but inhabit the work of Park the writer.

“When I was growing up, I’d never heard of the rapture and would never have assumed an empty house meant I’d been abandoned, left behind, for God to judge or damn,” Park writes. “But the apocalypse is still a deﬁning feature of evangelical theologies like the one my husband grew up with.”

Park’s husband, Colin, “my evangelical whisperer,” was raised in a nondenominational evangelical church in Kentucky. ey met in a ﬁction class at Hollins University in Virginia, where Park earned an MFA. ey were married in 2018. “Martha is a born artist. It’s impossible to tease apart Martha the person and Martha the writer,” says Colin, who works at ALSAC/St. Jude as a senior advisor of relational engagement.

Park the person can’t help but inhabit the work of Park the writer.

she starts wondering about it and stays with it. She absorbs everything she can about it. en she starts drawing and writing. Martha can’t not write.”

Or not draw. Her illustrations, which have graced the cover of this magazine, are as much a part of her creative process and her being as her essays.

Park majored in art and creative writing at Ohio Wesleyan University. As an undergrad, she spent parts of three summers at the Penland School of Crafts in North Carolina, taking classes in embroidered maps, Indigo Shibori dyeing, and letterpress printmaking.

After graduate school, Park returned to Penland for a residency for writers and printmakers and another residency for winter writing. She also was the Philip Roth Writer-in-Residence at Bucknell University in 2016.

“It’s a diﬀerent headspace, writing and drawing,” Park says. “Writing is my way of working through a lot of noise and trying to get to a quiet place. Making art is just quiet.”

“ ough all accounts of lynchings are horriﬁc, there is something particularly, intimately painful about a lynching in one’s own hometown,” Park wrote in 2016 in an essay on the 1917 lynching of Ell Persons on the outskirts of Memphis. at essay, published by the Memphis Flyer, became a source of support for the Rev. Randall Mullins, his wife Sharon Pavelda, and others who were organizing the Memphis Lynching Sites Project. Mullins, a poet and retired pastor, took Park to visit the site of Persons’ lynching near Summer Avenue and the Wolf River.

“I think of her first as she walked across the river bottom by the driving range just oﬀ Summer Avenue, traipsing through the trees and bushes, looking for signs, wanting to experience the reality of the tragedy as she planned to write about it,” says Mullins, who last year published Long Journey Home, a book of poetry. “Martha discovered, as we did on a similar walk, that there was little obvious evidence. But she kept looking.”

Park keeps looking. She realized at an early age that her father’s sermons were not about her or anyone else. He told stories to communicate larger, transcendent truths. His stories got her thinking.

“She’s so curious,” says her mother, Sherry. “When she notices something,

Quiet is more diﬃcult for Park to ﬁnd these days. She and Colin have two children, ages 5 and 1. “Our very small house is getting smaller by the day,” she says with a laugh. “My entire life takes place in the living room and dining room.”

And — the changing climate permitting — in the backyard, which connects to two other familiar and familial backyards. Her parents live next door, and her sister and brother-in-law live behind them. e proximity creates a network of support for three families and three generations.

“We see her in the daily frenzy of parenting young children and then are amazed when she shares her writing with us. Her writing, her faith, her curiosity, are gifts,” says Sherry.

“Martha says the same prayer every night with her child that I said every night with her,” says Don, who every now and then ﬁnds himself in one of his daughter’s stories. “It’s a little overwhelming at times,” he adds with a smile, “but I guess it’s her turn.”

World without end. Amen.

David Waters is associate director of the Institute for Public Service Reporting at the University of Memphis.

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VICTORIAN VISION

How Jerred Price rescued

one of Memphis’ oldest

homes.

left: The Bradford-Maydwell House dates to 1859. Over the years, it has been a law office, restaurant, and shelter for victims of Hurricane Katrina.

right: The Chesterfield sofas in the living room enhance the Anglophile aesthetic.

above: The ornate crown moulding is original to the house, well-preserved after 166 years.

BY CHRIS M C COY ■ PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN PICKLE

For the current owner of this Victorian Village home, it was love at first sight.

“I pulled up immediately and went, ‘Wow!’ That was my first reaction when I stepped out of the car,” says Jerred Price. “I saw a three-story, 1800s brick home that no one had lived in since the 1960s. It had been other things since then. It had been a restaurant. It had been a law office. And during [Hurricane] Katrina, they even had bunk beds in here. There were bars on all of the windows. I walked in and saw potential.”

He says he immediately felt at home. “It was a very odd feeling for me; I thought, ‘This is cozy.’ And everybody was looking at me, like, ‘What?’ The floors had so much dirt on them, you could barely tell that they were

hardwood. Pieces of the ceiling [were] falling in. But I saw the crown molding. I saw the medallion above the chandelier. I saw a beautiful church out of the window. I saw a huge backyard in downtown Memphis, which is rare. I saw old marble fireplaces. I said, ‘This does not need to continue to be unloved.’”

At the time, in 2014, the Victorian Village home was owned by a church, who considered it a white elephant. The Bradford-Maydwell House, as it is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, is a mixture of the Federal and Italianate styles of architecture; construction began in 1859. Price said, “I’m going to do a low-ball offer on this, and I’m just going to throw it in the air and see if it sticks. And they accepted. That was the start of the journey.”

Circle of Life”

Price’s personal journey to the Bluff City began in Anchorage, Alaska, where he was born into a military family. He grew up in northeastern Arkansas and got a job as a manager at the local Lowe’s while still a teenager. He was transferred to the Memphis area, and got a house in Lakeland.

“I always think it’s funny how every piece of my life has led to where I am now,” he says. “Everything that’s ever happened, even in life in general, but career-wise has been a step towards where I’m at today,” he says. “Lowe’s, for five years as a senior manager in five different stores, taught me about the products — the paint, lumber, flooring, all the stuff you needed to fix this house.” While in Lakeland, he discovered Memphis’ charms. “I found myself

above: Jerred Price says his design choices mix contemporary and Victorian styles. The dining room table is contemporary, but it fits in with the surrounding antique pieces. right: The ornate marble fireplaces were imported by the home’s original owners.

coming into the city, wanting to hear music and capitalize on Memphis culture,” he recalls. “I wanted to get to know the city. I thought, ‘This place doesn’t seem nearly as bad as everybody makes it out to be. I want to experience it.’”

Memphis in 2012 was recovering from the Great Recession. “I saw music playing in venues that once sat vacant. I saw people, I

saw patrons, and I said, ‘I want to be a part of this.’ This city is trying to make a comeback. It’s trying to do better for itself. And, you know, you could sit back and complain about Memphis all you want to, but you have to be the change you wish to see.”

That’s when a friend pointed him to the crumbling house in Victorian Village. The rest is history.

I’m Still Standing”

rice didn’t just want to take in the cultural life of the city. He wanted to contribute. “I started playing music when I was three or four years old. I had this little keyboard — a Little Tikes kind of thing — and it played little bells as you hit the keys. I was always mesmerized with that thing.”

When his grandmother saw him playing around with her piano, she encouraged him. “Granny showed me what a chord was,” he says.

“As soon as I learned chords at the age of nine or 10, it was like a light bulb went off. I started playing by ear. If I knew the song in my head, I could sit down and find the chords that make up that song. My fascination with Elton John started around that same timeframe.”

If Price looks familiar to you, it’s probably because you’ve seen him perform as Almost Elton John. Price started out by himself, belting Bernie Taupin’s lyrics as a solo piano act at parties and small clubs, before adding the band: “Walter Polk is on drums, Eric Westby on bass, John Gilreath on the keys. David Ogle on guitar, and Hope Clayburn on backing vocals, saxophone, flute, tambourine, and everything else.”

Almost Elton John regularly appears in the Memphis Flyer’s Best of Memphis live music categories. “We’ve been blessed with that,” he says. “It’s an honor for us because

that means people are enjoying our music, and they love what they hear and they support us. I think music brings people together. When you’re on stage and look out, there’s people of all races, all backgrounds, Democrat, Republican, gay, straight, white, Black, Asian, any background. And everyone’s not worried about that at that moment. They don’t care about skin color, they don’t worry about politics, they just smile. They dance with one another. They have some drinks and a good time. That’s a very rewarding thing for me.”

You can catch Almost Elton John at Lafayette’s on Overton Square on the first Friday evening of every month. The other Fridays, you can find him at the piano in the front corner of his living room, unwinding with a glass of wine and some tunes. “The piano becomes my escape,” he says. “It’s my pride and joy in this room.”

A couple of Christmases ago, Price put a Harry Potter-inspired Hogwarts village on the piano, complete with flying candles suspended from the ceiling above. It’s been there ever since. “When it came [time] to take it down, all of my friends were over here for New Year’s, and they were like, ‘Do not take that down. It’s cool as hell. Just keep it up!

You love Harry Potter. It’s your house: You do whatever you want. I ain’t gotta follow the rules!”

Price is an admitted Anglophile. “My family’s Welsh. everything I like is British: Harry Potter, Elton John, Adele, Paul McCartney; it’s all British. I can definitely tell it runs through my blood.”

The desk where he works most days is a replica of one of Queen Elizabeth’s. The Italian leather sofas are Chesterfields. The chandelier is imported from England, better to match the ornate medallion.

“This crown molding I haven’t touched at all,” Price says. “I came in and it was up there. It was part of the character I saw when I walked through the doors and I said, ‘This has got so much potential.’ I haven’t painted it. I haven’t had to repair it. The only thing we did was blow off some construction dust. That’s just plaster, you know. It’s crazy how

above: Brick walls and hardwood floors provide the kitchen’s soothing earth tones. left: Price is a building contractor and president of the Downtown Neighborhood Association. On the weekends, he entertains as Almost Elton John.

top: Trees are a recurring motif in the cozy upstairs bedroom. Price left brick exposed behind the bed to add texture to the walls. above: The staircase shows wear from more than a century and a half of use. The home’s high ceilings mean it’s quite a hike to the second floor.

well it’s held up after 166 years.”

The marble fireplaces in the living room and dining room are original to the house. Price says that James Maydwell, the home’s first owner, was in the business of shipping imported marble from the port of New Orleans up the Mississippi River, and acquired some choice pieces for his own dwelling. The buffet in the dining room is from the Victorian era. “I didn’t even have to refinish it,” Price says.

But the dining room table is a contemporary purchase. “This isn’t historic at all, but it fits the character of the home,” he says. “So one of the things I wanted to do was keep the character of the home alive. And in the pieces that I bought, I didn’t want to stray too much into modern. I wanted to blend modern and Victorian together.”

Mona

Lisas and Mad Hatters”

O ne day, a Lowe’s customer was so impressed with Price’s knowledge and efficiency that he offered him a job as an insurance adjuster. “I didn’t even know what that was,” Price says. “I took the job because it got me out of retail hours. I did that [insurance] for nine-and-a-half years. Then I finally decided, why am I working for someone else?”

Price leveraged his experience in cost estimation and management, the practical skills he had acquired during the renovation, and his impressive social media following into his new contracting business. “I became an entrepreneur in 2021, and it was probably one of the best things I’ve ever done,” he says.

These days, his home is in a perpetual state of renewal, with new projects popping up as soon as the last one is finished. “I’m constantly upgrading, changing something, keeping it maintained,” he says.

The kitchen area was the most difficult part of the downstairs, he says. Luckily, the plumbing had been completely revamped in the 1980s, during the home’s brief stint as a restaurant. But in the kitchen, all that survived was a plastic sink and a freestanding range in the corner.

“The floor was covered in linoleum with asbestos glue. You could not see the hardwood. We started peeling back that linoleum tile, and we saw a piece of the hardwood underneath it,

covered in black glue. I asked my flooring guy at that time, ’Can you save this?’ He goes, ‘Oh my gosh, you’re going to make me scrape off all of this?’ And I said yeah. But he accepted the challenge.”

Underneath the tile was an unusual pattern of hardwood, which Price’s flooring contractor had never seen in 30 years of experience. Price added the marble-topped island and modern appliances.

As he shows me around the kitchen, he reveals plans for a drastic rethinking of the space. It would not be the first time he radically changed a room.

On the second floor, Price transformed a little-used guest bedroom into a spacious, luxurious bathroom. The first thing you notice is the shower in the middle of the room. Price says the unusual configuration was out of necessity. “Most of the time, when you see a bathroom, the shower is in the corner,” he says.

But the corners of this room all have windows. “I had to create a freestanding, three-sided, glass shower.”

The unique shower arrangement also has another advantage. “I’m claustrophobic,” he says. “So to me, this is the best solution possible. I have one wall of tile and three sides of glass.”

Harmony”

I love being Downtown, because it’s the heart of the city,” Price says. “When you have

a strong downtown, you have a strong rest of the town.”

Price is president of the Downtown Neighborhood Association, an organization he first joined in 2019. “It’s probably bigger than it’s ever been right now,” he says.

Price says the DNA’s first priority has been lowering crime rates downtown. He cites the recent double-digit percentage point drop in reported incidents as signs of progress. “If Main Street is strong, the rest of the town is strong. If you drive through a town that has stores all up and down Main Street, you feel it’s more alive. It’s more vibrant. If you drive through the downtown of a big city, if it’s alive and vibrant, full of people in stores, you feel safer. The city is more alive.”

His other priority is restoring the Mud Island Amphitheater

to its former glory. “It’s a wonderful venue, unlike anything in the world,” he says. “You’re sitting out there in the middle of a river, the city skyline behind the stage. There’s the sunset, and bridges to your left and right. We know it needs to be activated.”

Nowadays, Price sees construction cranes sprouting outside his windows. “I love living down here, because I am 30 seconds to interstate access,” he says. “I can be on the I-240 loop and go anywhere in Memphis within 20 minutes. It’s an ideal location, and I think people are starting to realize that, because when I moved here, this neighborhood had no development going on. I can’t wait to see what this neighborhood looks like in even five years.”

If he has his way, this is only the beginning. “I’m going to be the change agent I wish to see,” he says. “I don’t owe anything to anyone in the city. I own my own business. I own my own home. I do my own thing. I play my own music. I really don’t mind ruffling feathers when need be. And that’s a good thing.”

above: Price converted a rarely used upstairs bedroom into this spacious bath. The unusual glass-walled shower is good for claustrophobes. left: The guest bathroom boasts a more conventional shower.

NO SUGAR, NO CREAM.

IN THE HEIGHTS, CXFFEEBLACK IS BREWING SOMETHING BEAUTIFUL.

THE ENTREPRENEURIAL EXPERIMENT WITH A “CONSUMABLE CURRICULUM” LOOKS BEYOND CHALLENGES AND TOWARD COMMUNITY.

BY ANNA TRAVERSE

Awind advisory is in effect on a cool early-spring day when I visit the Anti-Gentrification Coffee Club, nestled on a quiet stretch of National Street in Memphis’ Highland Heights neighborhood. Leaves skitter down the sidewalk and daffodils shiver, bowing their heads in the bluster. Inside the Coffee Club — the storefront for social-entrepreneurial venture Cxffeeblack — the round, rich aroma of freshly roasted beans greets me first, accompanied by a mellow hip-hop soundtrack and the spark of conversation. Someone I’ve never met before greets me: “Welcome home.” I’m early, so I settle in to wait a spell for Bartholomew Jones while he catches up with a delivery guy dropping off several boxes of new merch; Jones is co-founder and co-owner, along with his wife, head roaster Renata Henderson.

On your inaugural visit to the AGCC, your money’s no good; the spirit of hospitality means the fi rst cup’s free. is isn’t any old coffeeshop, remember: It’s a coffee club, designed to be welcoming and inclusive, educational but unpretentious. Jones has called typical, hyper-photogenic coffeeshops one of the “four horsemen of the gentrification apocalypse.” (The others: craft breweries, “small ladies walking tinier dogs,” and Whole Foods.)

I ask for a pour-over preparation of Cxﬀeeblack’s Ubadasa, a Burundian coﬀee fermented anaerobically: It’s fruity and bright, with a tang and sweetness that evokes the spritz of justpeeled winter citrus or the smooth pucker of a watermelon Jolly Rancher. (As Jones reminded

the audience at last year’s local TEDx talks, a coﬀee “bean” is the seed of an African fruit — not a legume at all.)

As he warms the water to just the right temperature and swirls it over freshly ground … notbeans, Omarion Champion tells me he’s been hanging around the Cxffeeblack family since he was just 10 years old. Squeezing the grinds through an unbleached filter, Champion educates me about why lighter roasts benefit from higher temperature water (212 degrees), while darker roasts do better with lower temperature water — so as not to accentuate any burnt flavors.

(I had no idea.)

Once he ﬁ nishes transferring the coﬀee from cup to carafe and back to cup (a process

left: At a recent investor event, friends, family, and supporters poured into Cxffeeblack’s new location in progress.

right: Renata Henderson and Bartholomew Jones, the married duo who co-founded Cxffeeblack.

Champion takes seriously the art of the perfect pour-over. A visit to Cxffeeblack almost always includes some free education for coffee lovers, from the perfect water temperature to the elevation where the coffee was grown.

designed to maintain the ideal temperature), Champion delivers the coffee to my hand with a traditional blessing, as the baristas here do for each fi rst-time visitor: Buna fo nagaa hin dhabiinaa. May you never lack coffee nor peace.

If you visit the Cooper-Young Farmers Market regularly, chances are you’ve strolled past the Cxffeeblack tent, chatted with one of the folks behind the table (most likely Omarion Champion, who’s there most Saturdays), or exchanged a tap of your phone for a bag of coffee or three. I can’t remember exactly when I first became aware of Cxffeeblack — whether it was in-person, at the market, or online — but their presence, both locally and nationally, is growing rapidly. e coffee company’s ascendance has plenty to do with their innovative, equitable supply-chain model, as well as with their branding and marketing prowess: ey’ve attracted more than 36,000 followers on Instagram via posts that feel organic and real because they are. ey’ve produced their own documentary, Cxffeeblack to Africa , about a fi rst trip to Ethiopia to spend time with coffee growers at the source. Last year,

“No sugar, no cream, don’t cover God’s dream,” Jones says. Or, in other words: “God don’t make no junk.” (They’ll make you a latte, though. And it will be good.)

they won an international award for the quality of their roasting — a love labor undertaken by Henderson, the ﬁrst Black woman coﬀee roaster in Memphis.

But beyond the robust publicity and the bold approach to their supply chain, beyond headlines and social posts, Cxﬀeeblack is selling the most absolutely delicious coﬀee I’ve ever sipped. At the shop, they’ll make you a latte or a cortado if you choose, but these beans are so pure, so clean, so complex, that a pour-over is the ideal way to brew them.

eir most famous and popular roast is the Guji Mane: an Ethiopian coﬀee sourced from Uraga in the Guji Zone of Oromia, Ethiopia, and brought to your kitchen through an all-Black supply chain. Guji Mane’s promised tasting notes — coﬀee can be tasted in much the same way as wine, except, according to Jones, coffee’s actually more complex — include papaya, passion fruit, nougat, and dark chocolate.

e wild revelation about tasting Guji Mane, Ubadasa, or their other coffees (I love the Despertar Negro and the Dulcey Rosada, both from the Dulcey family in Colombia) is that these flavors open themselves so freely. It’s not like tasting wine, when most folks, I suspect, feel like all that verbiage on the bottle is poetic garbage. Jones recalls that, when he was learning about more carefully processed coffees like those he now sells, he once tried a brew that he almost sent back because he thought the barista had snuck strawberry flavoring

above and right:

Omarion

into his cup. e “ﬂavoring” turned out to be the pure essence of the coﬀee fruit itself.

And, as the name suggests, this coﬀee is meant to be drunk black: “No sugar, no cream; don’t cover God’s dream,” Jones says. Or, in other words: “God don’t make junk.”

The global coffee industry is valued at roughly $450 billion; depending on whom you ask, the total figure might be lower or higher. Exact numbers vary widely from source to source — perhaps because the industry is not only so vast and diff use, but also so exploitative. Most coffee is grown in economically under-resourced countries, and — no surprise — the lion’s share of the profits ends up far from the hands of the mostly Black and brown people cultivating the plants. at’s part of what Cxffeeblack is engineered to address, and why they have built a proudly all-Black supply chain.

For all his coﬀee proselytism now, growing up, Bartholomew Jones wasn’t very into coﬀee. Actually, he hated it. at was his dad’s drink, and no amount of sugar and cream could mask the bitter taste that put

Recently, Cxffeeblack announced a partnership with a textile company to release a T-shirt together created using the world’s first all-Black cotton supply chain. The shirts are dyed using Cxffeeblack’s Guji Mane coffee.

him off. “My dad would try to serve [coffee] to me every morning. He went to LeMoyne-Owen, and during that time they took a trip to Kenya. He came back hyped about everything Kenyan. He would try to serve us Kenyan coffee, and I was like, ‘Dad, this is gross. Ugh.’” Today, one of Cxffeeblack’s supplier partners in their all-Black supply chain is a Kenyan family who run a vertically integrated farm.

Jones attended Gateway Christian Academy in Memphis before heading to Wheaton College (“Billy Graham went there”) to study education and sociology. He says he found his own relationship with coffee once he was in college. When he moved back to Memphis from the Chicago area, he worked as an educator for a decade — at New Hope Christian Academy, Sherwood Middle School, and then a performing-arts-focused college prep school that closed early in the pandemic. When one cup emptied, another began to fill, and Jones turned to coffee as a full-time venture.

above: Bryshard Wheeler is acting general manager of the coffeeshop, and sometimes he also works behind the espresso machine.

right: Bartholomew Jones models a jacket crafted by the multitalented musical artist Uni’Q using coffee bags.

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WHATWEDO

e entrepreneur is a well-regarded and thoughtful rapper, too; his musical tracks have been streamed over a million times. He jokes that the coﬀee company started as a way to sell merch around his music — then the side hustle got big. “It’s a very Memphis story,” he says. “How many businesses came from someone having a juke joint where they were doing music, but they started serving food, and the food was really good. en that’s making more money than the music is, so now we got a family restaurant. We just happen to have a family roastery.” But, he says, both music and education remain central — merely in diﬀerent forms. “Education was big for our family,” he tells me. “It was our way to make it out of the hood, our way to have a better life. I don’t teach in classrooms anymore — but we’re an educational company with a consumable curriculum. You know what I’m saying?” Yes, I say, I do — thinking back to

the science lessons about grind texture and water temperature I’ve already absorbed this morning, the sociology seminar about coffee and community, and the economics class about reimagining the supply chain. ey run a “barista exchange program” to fly African-American “coffee nerds” to Africa, to learn about pre-colonial coffee practices there — and to bring African baristas to Memphis, to train at and share traditions with the Coffee Club. And they documented the exchange in a fi lm, Cxffeeblack to Africa, released at the Indie Memphis festival in 2022.

Recently, the company announced a partnership with a textile company, COMOCO Cotton, to release a T-shirt together created using the world’s ﬁrst all-Black cotton supply chain. Both coﬀee and cotton were — and are — crops harvested through oppression and enslavement, so the collaboration between the two operations is both natural and deeply meaningful. “ is collaboration is about more than a product,”

The coffee shop is at 761 National St.

according to the press release about the collaboration. “It’s about shifting the narrative — reclaiming what was once stolen and turning it into a tool for our collective liberation.” In a wonderful detail, the cotton used to construct the shirts is dyed using Cxﬀeeblack’s Guji Mane.

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3-6pm at Overton Square

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he differences between this enterprise and others aren’t just aesthetic or theoretical; Cxffeeblack is in the midst of practicing what it preaches. When we meet, Jones is wrapping up a capital campaign to help solidify Cxffeeblack’s future home. As with everything else the group does, the effort to raise capital is a community-centered one: Instead of relying on, say, venture funds, they’re looking to their neighbors, partners, customers, and friends to be tangibly involved in a shared future. As of this writing, Cxffeeblack has raised nearly $437,413 from 513 individual

investors. e plans are to pay investors back — with 1.75x dividends — once the business reaches certain revenue benchmarks. at’s another way of sharing a coﬀee blessing.

Just a few doors down from the present-day Anti-Gentrification Coffee Club sits a larger, darker, bolder building — black brick with goldenrod accents. is is the new home of Cxffeeblack, and it’s a beauty, with exposed beams and cathedral ceilings; noted Memphis interior designer and TV personality Carmeon Hamilton is lead designer on the space. Still a work in progress, the new building already has hosted events too large for the Club space; soon (date to be announced), it will become the permanent home for the enterprise. As Cxffeeblack has grown and evolved, from its start in Jones’ and Henderson’s home kitchen to its current location, the team has kept sight of their mission, and a big, defining part of that mission is this neighborhood, this vibrant and well-loved but

PHOTOGRAPH

No sugar or cream needed — but you can get a latte if you want one!

Downtown Leland Mural Project

e Leland Blues Project depicts the musical history of the area through a series of striking murals.

Highway 61 Blues Museum

307 North Broad Street Leland • 662-347-4223 highway61blues.com

e Delta is the crucible where the blues was formed of heartache, joy, worry, hard times, lost love, late nights and boogie rhythms. ere are many types of blues, but they all owe their existence to the soils you tread on here in the Mississippi Delta.

Mississippi Blues Trail

Marker list:

1. Charley Patton

2. Jimmy Reed

3. Johnny Winter

4. James “Son” omas

5. Tyrone Davis

6. Corner of 10 and 61

is museum chronicles the story of the Delta Blues and the musicians who helped make it famous and features memorabilia from Little Milton, James “Son” omas, and Johnny Winter.

Sam Chatmon Blues Festival hollandaleblues.com • FB: SamChatmonBlues

In Hollandale, home of renowned blues artist, Sam Chatmon, enjoy BBQ, cra s and blues.

Highway 61 Blues Festival

Held in October each year, this event looks to be the biggest ever, with a “delta all-star” lineup and a can’t-miss for fans of Delta Blues.

7. Ruby’s Night Spot

8. Sam Chatmon

9. Freedom Village

10. Nelson Street

11. Prince McCoy

Mississippi Delta Blues and Heritage Festival 662-335-3523 • deltabluesms.org

Held the 3rd Saturday in September, the Mississippi Delta Blues Festival is the oldest continuously-operating blues festival in the country.

Greenville Blues Walk / Walnut Street Blues Bar

128 South Walnut Street, Greenville

Experience the Greenville Blues Walk with art to honor the Delta Blues.

not-so-gentriﬁed stretch of National Street.

Part of the reason Jones is a bit hazy on the opening date for the new space: Back in December, around the holidays, a series of break-ins cost the business time and money. In two separate incidents, the new building was breached, and thieves removed brandnew packaging and pricy equipment. Anyone who’s so much as coveted a nice espresso machine for their kitchen knows that this stuff runs high, and industrial-grade equipment many orders of magnitude more so. Factor into that the fact that Cxffeeblack isn’t just brewing coffee, but also roasting it … the break-ins were more than a mere inconvenience.

In the aftermath, Jones and Henderson thought about whether planting their business in this neighborhood, in this city, was truly the right choice. Would it be more sensible to go someplace a little softer and easier? In the end, they chose to stay where

April 25 - 27

Fr 1p - 6p • Sa 10a - 6p • Su 11a - 4p

they’re rooted. As Henderson told another news outlet in the aftermath, “Resilience is inward work, but I think it’s also community work. … You got to stick it out. Resilience starts with that faith.”

Or, as Jones says: “If we plant different kinds of roots, we can harvest different kinds of fruits.We’re a creative city. We don’t get the reputation and the credit for it all the time, but it’s in our DNA. I think that’s why we’ve always been innovators: We create things. And we create things out of nothing: food, music, innovation. I think the future of this city is in leaning into that heritage, not just as people who labor and work in a factory — although logistics are important to my supply chain, so that’s dope — but there’s an embarrassment of riches in ideas. If we can connect the youth in this city to a future where they can see their ideas having wings, that’s where we really are going to see a change.”

PHOTOGRAPH

The new location, just yards from the current coffee shop.

ALEX GREENE

BILLY STRAWN

How

a

chance discovery led

to this

mechanic’s lifelong association with Elvis … and his beloved cars.

BY ALEX GREENE

Billy Strawn knew whose limousine was in his shop on that fateful day in 1960. In less than six years, Elvis Presley had gone from being a scrappy upstart entertainer to a national celebrity. Strawn, not yet 30 and already the general manager of the Esso station on the corner of Highway 51 South and East Raines Road, was a fan. And the year before he’d set up shop, Presley had bought Graceland, only a mile up the road. Naturally, Strawn’s station was convenient for the star and his entourage.

right: The current entrance to Strawn’s shop on Marlin Road. He’s had businesses within a block of Elvis Presley Blvd. and Raines since June 1958. “That’s 67 years!” he exclaims, noting that during most of that time he was owner of Billy Strawn’s Firestone.

It was “just an old service station with two bays and three pumps out front,” Strawn recalls today. “And of course, back in those days, we used to wash cars and do it all by hand. Elvis had his Rolls-Royce limo there to be washed. ey had it back in the washroom, and of course I went back there just to look at the car, like you would. I opened the back door on the right side, and I looked down at the ﬂoorboard and I saw a $100 bill laying there. And I thought it was play money, really. But then I picked it up and discovered it was a real thing.”

He pauses at the idea of it, noting, “ at was a lot of money — probably worth about $1,000 now, isn’t it?” e longtime businessman, all too familiar with inﬂation, is only a little oﬀ: e note would now be worth $1,073. Keeping it never occurred to him. Instead, he held onto it until the next person from Graceland showed up.

“Elvis’ people who worked for him were in and out of the station two or three times a week,” Strawn recalls. “His uncle, Travis Smith, was the gate man at that time. at was his mother’s brother. Travis was in there getting gas, and I told him, ‘I found a $100 bill in Elvis’ car.’ And he said, ‘Well, you can just give it to me.’ And I said, ‘No, I ain’t gonna do that. Tell him that if he wants it, to come down here and get it.’

“Elvis was kind of like a kid. He’d get one toy and play with it a while, get tired of that, and then get something else.” — Billy Strawn

above: Elvis Presley with his new 1957 Cadillac Eldorado Seville, purchased at Southern Motors in Memphis.

“A day or two later, about six o’clock one evening,” he continues. “I was out there putting a headlight in a car, and Elvis and his dad came rolling into the driveway in a new T-bird. He pulled up and got out of his car and wanted to know who found the money. Of course, I spoke up and said, ‘I did.’ And I remember him saying, ‘Honest man, honest man!’ I gave him his $100 and he gave me a little tip. After that, he brought all his cars to me.”

As described in Peter Guralnick’s masterful biography, Careless Love: e Unmaking of Elvis Presley, the year

1960 was a pivotal one in the singer’s life. e 25-yearold had only just returned to Memphis that March after being stationed for nearly two years in Friedberg, Germany, with the U.S. Army’s 3rd Armored Division. roughout that time overseas, his star continued to rise via albums recorded earlier and released during his performing hiatus. And his wealth had increased accordingly — as had his headaches.

As Elvis was settling back into Graceland, Guralnick writes, “he was surrounded by friends and relatives, all dependent on him, all looking to him for help, for

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guidance, for handouts — for something … His uncles Travis, Johnny, and Vester, his aunt Lillian, his cousins Harold Loyd, Gene, Junior, Bobby, and Billy Smith, even his daddy, were in a state of constant contention, it sometimes seemed — Bobby using his name to pass bad checks, Daddy falling out with Travis and Vester over one thing or another, Lillian accusing Daddy of being tight with his money, one uncle getting drunk and opening the gates, inviting everyone in oﬀ the street, other relatives just taking the money he offered them without thanks, blowing it, and then coming back for more.”

“Some of his cars sat out in front of the place, like the pink Cadillac he’d given his mother. He also let his Rolls-Royce limo sit out there, and he had some peacocks running around on the grounds. Those peacocks would walk by that black, shiny Rolls-Royce and see themselves in it, and they’d jump up and scratch it. I tell you, I’d have been killing me some peacocks.”

Clearly, Presley did not dub someone an “honest man” lightly. And, managing his affairs in the very personal style that was his trademark, the star immediately knew who should care for his growing ﬂeet of vehicles. Yet, as soon as Strawn says Presley thereafter “brought all his cars to me,” he corrects himself: “Actually, I went up [to Graceland] and got them. I’d go back in the jungle room and sit down and talk to Marty Lacker, or one of the other guys that worked for him, to see what he wanted done to his cars.” And with that, this honest man was thrust into a very surreal world.

top: Marlowe’s Ribs’ famous pink Cadillac limo on the rack at Billy Strawn Transmissions. above: “This was at Billy’s shop when Al Green dropped off his Rolls,” says Dale Watson.

ELVIS IN THE DRIVER’S SEAT

Upon his return to the States, Presley embarked on his movie-making years, and, to hear Strawn speak of it, the singer’s real life seemed to take on the zany ﬂavor of Clambake. e many trips to Hollywood typically translated into a lot of automotive upkeep.

“He used to travel to California and back by automobile, and he usually had anywhere from four to ﬁve vehicles in the caravan,” recalls Strawn. “I remember he had a black Chrysler station wagon and a little two-wheel trailer, a horse trailer, and that trailer had all his clothes in it! ey’d call from California to tell Elvis to be back there at a certain time, and he’d just tell the guys the afternoon before, ‘We’re leaving at four o’clock tomorrow morning!’ And of course, they jumped through their butts, trying to get everything ready.”

a little die a little and break the law.

Trey Milligan did all three in the summer before his 14th birthday.

Meanwhile, in a diﬀerent class from all the king’s men, and still just 17, the young Priscilla Beaulieu moved into Graceland in 1963, by then also the residence of Presley’s father, Vernon, and Vernon’s second wife. Priscilla often stayed there while Elvis cavorted on the sets of his movies, and, as Guralnick writes, “she felt alone and more like a child than ever. Vernon drove her to school every day.”

Her husband-to-be was making Fun in Acapulco at the time, notes Guralnick, but “he rushed back from California as soon as shooting was ﬁ nished at the end of March and bought her a pretty little bright-red Corvair.” Strawn remembers that well. “He bought her a Corvair to drive back and forth to school. I remember she brought the car down to my place herself, and sat in the waiting room while we serviced it. And in fact, I saw her one day a year or two ago, and I asked her about that. I said, ‘Do you remember that red Corvair you used to have?’ She said, ‘Yeah. But I don’t remember whatever happened to it.’ It’s probably somewhere …”

“He used to travel to California and back by automobile, and he usually had anywhere from four to ﬁve vehicles in the caravan. I remember he had a black Chrysler station wagon and a little twowheel trailer, a horse trailer, and that trailer had all his clothes in it!”

By then, the King was used to customizing his ﬂeet. Guralnick notes that his Cadillac limousine had “two telephones, an entertainment console, a refreshment bar, and a little electric shoe buﬀer.” And, as Strawn relates, he had the same attitude toward his much bulkier ride as well, possibly inventing a convenience we take for granted today.

“He also had a little RV motor home, and Elvis did a lot of the driving himself. Back in those days, the [high/low-beam headlight] dimmer switch was in the ﬂoorboard, and he didn’t like that. He wanted the switch up where he could work it with his hands. So I guess we invented the dimmer at the steering wheel, because now every car today has it in the turn-signal lever.”

ings were getting weird at Graceland, but Strawn wasn’t fazed. “ ey had this monkey; I think its name was Scatter. And he used to transfer that thing back and forth to California when they went by caravan.” A monkey bouncing around in an RV with Presley at the wheel has all the makings of one of his screwball comedies, sadly never made. en there was the matter of the peafowl.

Strawn comments, “Elvis was kind of like a kid. He’d get one toy and play with it a while, get tired of that, and then get something else. I remember, back in the ’60s, slot-car tracks were popular. He set up a place where he could play those slot cars. He even had a fountain in there with Pepsi. They’d go on like that for a while, and then he’d come up with something else, you know? Later, when he bought a ranch down in Mississippi, he bought all the guys that worked for him pickup trucks.”

All the king’s toys kept Strawn busy, but he embraced his role in the Elvis universe without much thought, even when it came to money matters. “I remember one night,” he says. “when Elvis, Joe Esposito, Marty Lacker, and all those guys that worked for him were out partying, and they ran out of money, and he called at two o’clock in the morning to ask if I’d cash a check. And I did! I used to cash all the payroll checks and stuff. But I didn’t think that much about it. I never did take any pictures of anything. Of course, I could have had a lot of things if I’d have just thought about it, but I looked at him like everybody else, you know. I’d go up there to Graceland and go in the front door and walk out the back, with no one paying attention to me.”

SOMETHING WITH A STEERING WHEEL

Being the mechanic of a celebrity was certainly not on Strawn’s bingo card when he left his hometown of McGehee, Arkansas, a decade earlier. “I was raised on a farm, back in the sticks. I used to chop cotton, all that kind of work,” he says, and even at the age of 10, “I always wanted to get into something with a steering wheel.” When trucks lined up at the cotton gin to unload the harvest, he’d jump in the cabs. “I guess I started driving when I was about 11 or12 years old. I started so young I had to sit on a pillow.”

By his late teens, he’d met Norma Bridges, who soon became his wife; she passed away last fall, after the two spent 70 years together. e same year they were married, they moved to Memphis and went on to raise two children.

“I started to work for the Ford Motor Company in 1953, on an assembly line. ey had a plant on Riverside Drive. I was 19 years old! en I went from the Ford plant to the service station business, and from that to the tire and repair business at a Firestone franchise. And now this [Billy Strawn Transmissions] is mostly transmission work, but we do other work too.”

Since 1958, he’s plied his trade from essentially the same small stretch of what’s now Elvis Presley Boulevard, ﬁrst at Raines Road, and now about a block to the south. rough that time, he’s seen a lot of changes in combustion engines. “When I started, they had what they call points and condensers and a carburetor. And to tune one up, you replaced the points and condenser and spark plugs and adjusted the carburetor. at was it. But now it ain’t nothing like that. ey’re computer-

above: Elvis with his Cadillacs, ca. 1956.

LOCAL TREASURES

ized and you have to have a technician who’s familiar with that.”

Don’t

While he doesn’t specialize in vintage cars, he does know his way around them, and that led to his encounter with another singer later in life. Dale Watson, the country rocker who hails from Texas, relocated to Memphis for a time, and was perhaps the perfect customer to hear about Strawn’s association with the King.

“Dale had an antique car, a ’56 Ford or something, that had a transmission problem,” says Strawn. “So I worked on his car, and got to know him, and he found out that I had worked on Elvis’ cars, and he was interested in that.” In fact, Watson was moved to write the song “Billy Strawn” about the man himself. Released on 2023’s Starvation Box album, the tune captures the magic of one of Strawn’s most treasured moments.

Elvis said, “Who found my money?”

Billy said, “I did” with his growl Elvis said, “Honest man, honest man”

Billy Strawn, honest man, honest man

Billy Strawn, Billy Strawn

Now Billy’s still around

Though Elvis, he is gone

Billy’s still the trusted man

That the king depended on.

Now what would Elvis do

If he needed his car working?

Call honest man, honest man

Billy Strawn

Honest man, honest man

Billy Strawn, Billy Strawn

Strawn, now 91, serviced Presley’s cars even after the singer’s death and through the time that Vernon managed Graceland. ose years continue to loom large in his memories.

“I was a fan, and I’m still a fan. It’s a shame that he didn’t live any longer than he did. You know, 42 years old — to me, that’s just growing good.”

Singer and guitarist Dale Watson celebrated the mechanic’s life story in a song.

2025 Honorees

What does it take to be an experienced entrepreneur?

Grit, determination, patience, and a talent for transforming ideas into successes. ose are the prerequisites, but there are other characteristics that take such achievers to the next level. ey need to love what they do and they have to love the community that supports them.

Since 1991, the Society of Entrepreneurs has sought to put the spotlight on those who have that spirit and have changed Memphis and the Mid-South. Whether they started from scratch or got involved in a family business, they’ve gone above and beyond the usual metrics of success.

e 2025 inductees are William B. Dunavant III , CEO and President of Dunavant Enterprises, Inc., and Chairman of the Executive Board; J. Allen Scoggin, Founder, CEO, and President of Med Communications; Bill Stegbauer, President (Retired) of Southern Towing Company; and Mark H. George, Chairman of IMC Companies. ey will be oﬃcially inducted into the SOE (soememphis.com ) at the 33rd Annual Dinner and Awards Banquet on APRIL 26, 2025 , at the FEDEX EVENT CENTER AT SHELBY FARMS . e organization’s membership represents the entrepreneurial spirit in their approach to risk and resolution. Members include luminaries who have long been in the headlines, such as Frederick W. Smith of FedEx and J.R. “Pitt” Hyde of Malone & Hyde, known not just for their business prowess but their devotion to their employees and community. Other well-known members have been making their mark for decades, such as Pat Kerr Tigrett and Dr. Mary McDonald . Every go-getter who has been admitted into the SOE has done remarkable work in their ﬁelds, and sometimes in other pursuits.

While all have their own style and approach, there are some things they have in common. ey understand risk and are willing to take a chance. If they make a mistake, they learn from it. ey surround themselves with top-notch, trusted people. And they give back to the community in countless ways.

And the future of entrepreneurialism in Memphis is brighter than ever.

■ BY JON W. SPARKS ■

2025 Honorees

William B. Dunavant III

CEO and President of Dunavant Enterprises, Inc. and Chairman of the Executive Board

“I want to deal with customers that have problems and I want to be the aspirin for their headache.”

Dunavant is a sixth-generation Memphian who learned from his late father, Billy Dunavant, a larger-thanlife character, shrewd businessman, and member of the Society of Entrepreneurs. To that end, the new inductee in the SOE says, “ e greatest gift a parent can give is education. I wanted to go to business school and my father rejected that and said he’d teach me more right here at Dunavant Enterprises.”

As it is with many family businesses, young Dunavant “ended up in the back of the warehouse starting at the bottom, where everybody else started in our company. I earned my stripes and kept growing in the business in the raw cotton trading business.”

When he got up to speed in various areas, he found he wanted to go overseas, building skills and mining opportunities. He found a small asset in Australia and his father gave him the go-ahead to make it soar. With that success, he became the company’s head of global operations. “We were doing business in every producing country in the world and that had its own set of challenges, but its own set of opportunities,” he says. “Even today in our company, we like to look at the hard way to do business because if it’s easy, everybody does it.”

e cotton enterprise was started by his grandfather some 95 years ago, but a few years ago, Dunavant III saw the need for a change — to get away from the commodity trading business even though they were global leaders. e risk had become too great. “But why can’t we take that business model from raw cotton and go out into the global logistics market and do it for others?” he wondered. “ at’s what we’re doing today.” Dunavant Enterprises now is about logistics, funds management, and real estate.

Dunavant has some key principles developed during his welllearned experiences. One is who he chooses to have around him: “Great entrepreneurs don’t happen without good people and good executors with them in partnership with them.”

And: “You can’t trade backwards. You can only look forward. If you make a mistake, take your lump and move on. Because you get a fresh, clear brain to start the day with every day.”

J. Allen Scoggin Founder, CEO, and President of Med Communications, Inc.

“I can’t live without being able to have new information coming into my life every single day. And I can’t

live without the ability to do and help other people who are in need.”

Scoggin founded Med Communications in 1998 only after 30 years at the University of Tennessee Health Sciences Center College of Pharmacy, retiring as an associate professor. But while there, he focused on pharmacy practices that would beneﬁt the enterprise he would later undertake. One of his endeavors was working at a drug information center where local physicians and other health providers could get answers to questions about pharmaceuticals.

He applied what he learned about providing information into what has become a highly sophisticated operation that serves pharmaceutical and medical device companies worldwide. Aimed largely at healthcare providers, it requires precision in not only scientiﬁc writing, but in being able to present regulatory considerations, whether from the Food and Drug Administration, the European Union, or other global agencies.

Today, Med Communications has expanded into South America, Canada, and the Philippines, with a staﬀ of about 200 people in 12 diﬀerent countries. ose people thoroughly study and research what pharmaceutical companies are making and what impact those products may have. e company is then in a position to educate whoever might have an interest in the products.

Scoggin also has to stay on top of the numerous changes going on in his industry, not just in scientiﬁc research and not just in global governmental regulations. He’s also had to be aware of the evolving needs of pharmaceutical companies.

Running Med Communications is something Scoggin enjoys for both its challenges and its rewards. He credits his father for sparking his interest in business. As a teen, he helped his father in homebuilding and was fascinated by the process of planning and construction. He wanted to immediately go into the business out of high school, but his father insisted he go to college and that time in academia prepared him even further for life as an entrepreneur.

And that journey has been rewarding. As he puts it: “We’re excited about growing the company, and we’re global. It’s just been an exciting venture.”

Bill Stegbauer

President (Retired) of Southern Towing Company

“My advice: Buy low, sell high. And see what people say and then see what they do.”

Stegbauer started out in the family business as a deckhand. But those duties expanded quickly to include tankerman and engineer, and dealing with a variety of petroleum products, chemicals, acids, grain, and even rocks. His stint at Vanderbilt, where he earned an MBA, furthered his interest in the business, and he worked with his father in the business until he eventually took over.

After some 40 years, he sold the company, but still had a need to feed his entrepreneurial spirit. One direction was real estate with a partner. Another was a bakery business he invested in, and the joke was that he’d gone from one end of the food chain (hauling fertilizer) to the other. “And I can tell you that it’s a lot better to be on the end I’m on now,” he says.

And to further keep his hand in business, he got involved in a machine shop doing fabrications and repairs — including helping make plates that helped fix the Hernando DeSoto Bridge in 2021.

The variety of enterprises is an attraction for Stegbauer. The bakery is fun — seeing people light up when they see cakes and cookies — and he helped with organizational aspects, but the family owners run it. The appeal of the machine shop is, “I like to see things where you start from nothing and make something.” (As for real estate, he says, “It’s just real estate.”)

Whatever the business, Stegbauer says there’s one thing to keep in mind. “A lot of companies start out beneficial, very customer-oriented, very employee-oriented. And as they grow and they get larger, they get more oriented towards cutting the expense and becoming more cost-conscious instead of selling things. I’m not saying that’s not something that you should pay attention to, but when that becomes the focus instead of the customers and the employees, that’s where a lot of companies become lost.”

And as for Memphis as a place for businesses to thrive, he says, “We like to see people do well. There’s a spirit here. We continually reinvent ourselves because new people come to Memphis all the time and tell me, we love it here. There’s so much to do. That’s what helps with the spirit of the entrepreneur.”

Mark H. George Chairman of IMC Companies

G“Find what you do best, find your niche, stay in that niche, and build on that niche and keep it better.”

eorge started Intermodal Cartage Company 43 years ago and it’s almost the only job he’s ever had. It’s a drayage firm, all about moving containers, and he and his wife started it right after a short stint with a small local cartage company. “It was a pretty ugly industry,” he says. “Railroads and trucking companies were kind of enemies of each other. And it was an opportunity that wasn’t serviced very well. It was complicated and most trucking companies didn’t want to get into it, so it created an opportunity for me.”

He came from a family of entrepreneurs who were in transportation and logistics. He was similarly determined to excel in the world of containerization. “I was lucky to have that kind of vision, but even though the company was profitable, solvency was an issue.” Receivables, he says, weren’t always coming in fast enough. He made common cause with his bank, and it worked. “I always wanted to have funding in place before I needed it. And that’s the way this company’s operated ever since.”

Today, there are about 3,000 employees in the company in every state in the country. And George credits Memphis: “It’s been a big part of the secret sauce of our success.” His competitors were on the coasts, but by starting here he grew to the ports. “Memphis, Tennessee, had all the right ingredients for the international supply chain with the river, with the class-one railroads that began and ended in Memphis, and with an international airport. Also, FedEx was about a 10-year-old company and becoming a global force, so being in Memphis at that time and the evolution of containerization all worked in my favor.”

George credits his wife, Melinda, with being a guiding light. “We’ve shared everything with each other. She sometimes gave me good advice and sometimes advice I didn’t like, but being very honest and transparent with each other, she has been my greatest confidant.”

Finding Balance

Teaching yoga and tending bar have a lot in common at The Second Line.

BY BRUCE VANWYNGARDEN

Rubén Tree has done a lot of living in the 13 years between his graduation from Germantown High School and his current gig tending bar at e Second Line in Midtown. But the ﬁrst thing he had to do was learn to walk again.

“I tore a meniscus in a sports accident in high school and was in a wheelchair for nine months afterward,” Tree says. “My doctor told me it would be hard for me to ride a bike again, but I bought one anyway, and a friend and I ended up riding cross-country from Memphis to Portland, Oregon. It took us two months.”

at trek started Tree on a multi-year odyssey through three countries that didn’t bring him back to Memphis until last spring.

“I stayed in Portland for a

couple of years,” he says, “then I decided I wanted to go to Guatemala to attend a school for yoga teacher training. at’s also where I began bartending.”

After two years in Guatemala, where he fulfilled his dream of learning to teach yoga, Tree moved to Honduras, specifically to the island of Utila, where he taught yoga and tended bar — a combination of careers that first arose out of necessity, and one that he maintains to this day.

“Usually, yoga teachers aren’t paid very much,” Tree says. “So they have to pair teaching with

another way to earn a living. Bartending is a good ﬁt for me. Part of yoga practice is being intentional, so paying attention to someone sitting at my bar, intentionally being kind to someone, is a kind of yoga.”

After a few years in Honduras, a relationship inspired Tree to move again — this time to the cooler climes of Québec City, Canada. Unfortunately, the move coincided with the onset of the Covid pandemic.

“Part of yoga practice is being intentional, so paying attention to someone sitting at my bar, intentionally being kind to someone, is a kind of yoga.”

“I spent the entire Covid period in Québec City and Montreal. After the pandemic ended and my relationship ended, I felt the need to come back home to Memphis, where all my family is. I’d been away for a long time and I came back knowing how to speak three languages. My grandmother calls me the white sheep of the family,” he says, laughing.

Back in Memphis, Tree began bartending at the now-defunct Paramount on Front Street, before landing his job at e Second Line in the summer of 2024. It’s a place where he feels comfortable.

“I love New Orleans and I love Cajun food and culture, so this place is a perfect fit,” he says. “I like to think of bartending as a way for me to enlighten people to laughter and joy. Different spirits make people do different things, so I want to design a cocktail for someone that’s going to make their day.”

“If I were a customer, what would you design for me?” I ask.

“Gin would be my spirit of choice for you.”

“Excellent decision.”

“So, I’m going to make

you a drink I call the ‘Voodoo LeVeaux,’ he says. “It has a base layer of Gray Whale Gin, then I add Crème de Violette, Luxardo Maraschino Originale, Campari Milano Bitters, and a dash of simple syrup.” e concoction is soon sitting before me in a coupe glass. It has a rich, plummy color, and the texture is ever-so-slightly syrupy. e ﬂavors are complex, assertive, and adventurous, much like the man who blended them. It’s a splendid drink.

“Good call on the cocktail,” I say. “ is is right up my alley. How does that work?”

“Well, yoga teaches you to be more aware,” Tree says. “And in a way, bartending also teaches me to be more aware: How people are responding to certain things; how many drinks have they had? It’s all about ﬁnding that delicate balance. People will have a lot more fun and drink a little bit less if you’re engaged with them, paying attention. My job is to make sure they’re having a great time and enjoying their cocktail, not just slamming them back, alone.”

Reader, I’ll be honest: Bartending as yoga was not a concept that had entered my brain before coming into e Second Line on this sunny Friday afternoon, but it makes absolute sense coming from Rubén Tree.

“Americans see yoga as a way to get ﬁt, to get buﬀ, to look good,” he says. “But it’s really about elevating people, bringing oneness. We want everyone to rise together.”

Amen to that, Mr. Tree.

e Second Line is located at 2144 Monroe Avenue.

Rubén Tree serves a “Voodoo LeVeaux.”

NONPROFIT OF THE YEAR: COLLIERVILLE EDUCATION FOUNDATION

PERSON OF THE YEAR: STAN JOYNER, FORMER MAYOR OF COLLIERVILLE

HEALTHCARE PROVIDER OF THE YEAR: LE BONHEUR PEDIATRICS COLLIERVILLE

BRIDGING THE GAP: YOUTH VILLAGES

SPIRIT OF COLLIERVILLE : THE BANK OF COLLIERVILLE

ENTREPRENEUR OF THE YEAR: SIGN MATTERS, INC.

AMBASSADOR OF THE YEAR: PANSY HALL, PATRIOT BANK MORTGAGE

Memphis Dining Guide

A Curated Guide to Eating Out

MCIMAS—It’s breakfast tacos, shrimp and grits, chilaquiles verdes, and plenty of other Southern and Latin-American twists at the Hyatt Centric. 33 Beale St. 444-3232. B, L, D, $-$$$

emphis Magazine offers this curated

listing as a service to our readers. Broken down alphabetically by neighborhoods, this directory does not list every restaurant in town. It does, however, include the magazine’s “Top 50” choices of must-try restaurants in Memphis, a group that is updated every August. Establishments open less than a year are not eligible for “Top 50” but are noted as “New.” is guide also includes a representative sampling of other Bluﬀ City eating establishments. No fast-food facilities or cafeterias are listed. Restaurants are included regardless of whether they advertise in Memphis Magazine; those that operate in multiple locations are listed under the neighborhood of their original location. is guide is updated regularly, but we recommend that you call ahead to check on hours, prices, or other details. Suggestions from readers are welcome: dining@memphismagazine.com.

DOWNTOWN

ALDO’S PIZZA PIES—Serving gourmet pizzas — including Mr. T Rex — salads, and more. Also 30 beers, bottled or on tap. 100 S. Main. 577-7743; 752 S. Cooper. 725-7437. L, D, $-$$

AMELIA GENE’S—Globally inspired ﬁne-dining cuisine at the One Beale project, including Rohan duck, Wagyu ﬁlet, and an extensive cheese cart. 255 S. Front. 686-5051. D, $$-$$$

THE ARCADE—Possibly Memphis’ oldest cafe. Specialties include sweet potato pancakes, a fried peanut butter and banana sandwich, and breakfast served all day. 540 S. Main. 526-5757. B, L, D (Thurs.-Sat.), MRA, $

ARNOLD’S SMOKEHOUSE—A classic smokehouse with vegan and nonvegan options seasoned to perfection. Closed Mon. 2019 E. Person Ave. 922-5950. L, D, SB, $-$$$

AUTOMATIC SLIM’S—Longtime downtown favorite specializes in contemporary American cuisine emphasizing local ingredients; also extensive martini list. 83 S. Second. 525-7948. L, D, WB, MRA, $-$$$

BARDOG TAVERN—Classic American grill with Italian inﬂuence, Bardog offers pasta specialties such as Grandma’s NJ Meatballs, as well as salads, sliders, sandwiches, and daily specials. 73 Monroe. 275-8752. B (Mon.-Fri.), L, D, WB, MRA, $-$$

BELLE TAVERN—Serving elevated bar food, including a butcher board with a variety of meats and cheeses, as well as daily specials. 117 Barboro Alley. 249-6580. L (Sun.), D, MRA, $

BEN YAY’S GUMBO SHOP—Spiritual successor to DejaVu, offering fresh and authentic Creole staples. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 111. 779-4125. L, D, $-$$

BISCUITS & JAMS—Offering sweet and savory brunch with a Cajun ﬂare. Specialties include smoked sausage or spicy fried chicken on

celebrate our city’s community table and the

biscuits, lemon blueberry wafﬂes, and rum custard French toast. No walk-ins on weekends. 24 N. B.B. King Blvd. 672-7905. B, L, WB, $-$$

BRASS DOOR IRISH PUB—Irish and New-American cuisine includes such entrees as ﬁsh and chips, burgers, shepherd’s pie, all-day Irish breakfast, and more. 152 Madison. 572-1813. L, D, SB, $-$$

BY THE BREWERY—Breakfast and lunch café, with a focus on Southern-style biscuits, salads, and soups. 496 Tennessee St. 310-4341. B, L, $

CAPRICCIO GRILL ITALIAN STEAKHOUSE

Offers prime steaks, fresh seafood (lobster tails, grouper, mahi mahi), pasta, and several Northern Italian specialties. 149 Union, The Peabody. 529-4199. B, L, D, SB, MRA, $-$$$$

CAROLINA WATERSHED—This indoor/outdoor eatery, set around silos, features reimagined down-home classics, including fried green tomatoes with smoked catﬁsh, a buttermilk fried chicken sandwich, burgers, and more. Closed Mon.-Thurs. 141 E. Carolina. 321-5553. L, D, WB, $-$$

breakfast

lunch

dinner

COCOZZA AMERICAN ITALIAN—”The red sauce joint of your dreams” serves up classic Italian-American fare from the owners of Majestic Grille. Closed Sun. 110 Harbor Town Sq. 609-1111. D, $-$$

COZY CORNER—Serving up ribs, pork sandwiches, chicken, spaghetti, and more; also homemade banana pudding. Closed Mon. 735 N. Parkway. 527-9158. L, D, $

CURFEW—An elevated sports bar/American tavern concept by Top Chef contestant Fabio Viviani at the Canopy Memphis Downtown hotel. 164 Union Ave. B, L, D, $-$$

DOS HERMANOS KITCHEN—Breakfast and lunch concept by Eli Townsend in the Cossitt Library. 33 S. Front. 286-2399. B, L, $ ESCO RESTAURANT AND TAPAS—Shareable dishes, turkey ribs, and seafood mac’n’cheese at this 2 Chainz franchise. 156 Lt. George W. Lee Ave. 808-3726. L, D, $$-$$$

FERRARO’S CHEESY CORNER & PIZZERIA—Plenty of pizzas, along with a whole new cheese-inspired menu (fancy grilled cheeses and build-your-own mac and cheese bowls). 111 Jackson. 522-2033. L, D, $

FISHBOWL AT THE PYRAMID—Burgers, ﬁsh dishes, sandwiches, and more served in a unique “underwater” setting. Bass Pro, 1 Bass Pro Drive, 291-8000. B, L, D, $-$$

FLAME RAMEN—Traditional Japanese ramen restaurant serving up bowls of noodles. 61 S. Second St. 441-6686. L, D, wheelchair accessible, $-$$

FLIGHT RESTAURANT & WINE BAR—Steaks and seafood, with such specialties as bison ribeye and Muscovy duck, all matched with appropriate wines. 39 S. Main. 521-8005. D, SB, MRA, $-$$$

FLYING FISH—Serves up fried and grilled versions of shrimp, crab, oysters, ﬁsh tacos, and catﬁsh; also chicken and burgers. 105 S. Second. 522-8228. L, D, $-$$

GARDEN BRUNCH CAFÉ—Fish and grits, steak and eggs, and other upscale takes on Southern brunch classics. 492 S. Main St. 249-7450. B, L, $$

GOOD FORTUNE CO.—Authentic handcrafted noodles, ramen, and dumplings. 361 S. Main. 561-306-4711. L, D, $-$$

THE GENRE—Burgers, tenders, catﬁsh, and plenty of vegan options made to order at this music-themed restaurant/lounge. 200 Poplar, Suite 105. 410-8169. B, L, D, $-$$

THE GOURMET GALLERY—A variety of elevated comfort dishes, like fried ribs and wafﬂes, shrimp and grits, grilled salmon, and more. Closed Mon. 412 S. Main St. 848-4691. L, D, $-$$$

GROOVY GRATITUDE—Offers a vibrant selection of cold-pressed juices, handcrafted smoothies, and healthy eats like paninis and acai bowls. Closed Sun. 605 N. Second St. 417-8007. B, L, WB, $ GUS’S WORLD FAMOUS FRIED CHICKEN—Serves chicken with signature spicy batter, along with homemade beans, slaw, and pies. 310 S. Front. 527-4877; 3100 Forest Hill Irene (Germantown). 853-6005; 2965 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 373-9111; 730 S. Mendenhall. 767-2323; 505 Highway 70 W., Mason, TN. 901-294-2028. L, D, MRA, $

SB — Sunday brunch

WB — weekend brunch

MRA — member, Memphis Restaurant Association

$ — under $15 per person without drinks or desserts

$$ — under $25

$$$ — $26-$50

$$$$ — over $50

CATHERINE & MARY’S—A variety of pastas, grilled quail, pâté, razor clams, and monkﬁsh are among the dishes served at this Italian restaurant in the Chisca. 272 S. Main. 254-8600. D, SB, MRA, $-$$$

CHEZ PHILIPPE—Classical/contemporary French cuisine with Asian and Nordic inﬂuences, presented in a luxurious atmosphere with seasonal tasting menus from chef Keith Clinton. Afternoon tea served Thu.-Sun., noon-3:30 p.m. (reservations required). Closed Sun.Tues. The Peabody, 149 Union. 529-4188. D, MRA, $$$$

HAPPY MEXICAN—Quesadillas, burritos, chimichangas, vegetable and seafood dishes, and more. 385 S. Second. 529-9991; 6080 Primacy Pkwy. 683-0000; 7935 Winchester. 751-5353. L, D, $

HIVE BAGEL & DELI Bagels, bagels, and more bagels at this new downtown deli offering baked goods, sandwiches, and salads. Closed Mon./Tue. 276 S. Front St. 509-2946. B, L, $

HU. ROOF—Rooftop cocktail bar serves toasts with a variety of toppings including beef tartare with cured egg, cognac, and capers or riced cauliﬂower with yellow curry, currants, and almonds. Also salads, ﬁsh tacos, and boiled peanut hummus. 79 Madison. 333-1229. D, $ HUSTLE & DOUGH BAKERY & CAFE—Flaky, baked breakfast goodness every day with fresh pastries, sandwiches, and more at Arrive Hotel. 477 S. Main St., 701-7577. B, L, $

ITTA BENA—Southern and Cajun-American cuisine served here, located above B.B. King’s Blues Club on Beale St.; specialties are duck and wafﬂes and shrimp and grits, along with steaks, chops, seafood, and pasta. 145 Beale St. 578-3031. D, MRA, $$-$$$

restaurant

DINING SYMBOLS

JEM DINING—Chef Josh Mutchnick offers a dining experience that’s memorable, refined, unpretentious, and welcoming with dishes from around the world. Closed Sun./Mon./Tue. 644 Madison Ave. 286-1635. D, $$-$$$

KINFOLK—Breakfast with a side of nostalgia in Harbor Town. Specialties include biscuit sandwiches, steak and omelet plate, and brown butter mushrooms with jammy egg over grits. 111 Harbor Town Square. 457-5463. B, L, SB, WB, $-$$

KING & UNION BAR GROCERY—Classic Southern favorites including catfish plate, pimento cheese, po-boys, chicken & waffles. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner with cocktails served with flair and favorite Memphis beers. Locally made confections available in the grocery. 185 Union Ave. 523-8500. B, L, D, $-$$

KOOKY CANUCK—Home of the four-pound Kookamonga Burger (no charge to anyone who can eat it in less than 60 minutes), plus other (smaller) burgers, sandwiches, wings, soups, and salads. 57 S. Second, 901-578-9800. L,D, MRA, $-$$

LITTLE BETTIE—New Haven-style pizzas and snacks from the Andrew-Michael team at Wiseacre’s Downtown location. 398 S. B.B. King Blvd. 334-9411. L, D, $-$$

THE LOBBYIST AT THE CHISCA—Chef Jimmy Gentry brings his farm-to-table ideas downtown, with seasonal, and sometimes weekly, new menus, and an emphasis on creative vegetable dishes. Closed Sun. 272 S. Main St., Suite 101. 249-2170. D, $$-$$$$

LOFLIN YARD—Beer garden and restaurant serves vegetarian fare and smoked-meat dishes, including beef brisket and pork tenderloin, cooked on a custom-made grill. Closed Mon.-Tues. 7 W. Carolina. 249-3046. L (Sat. and Sun.), D, MRA, $-$$

THE LOOKOUT AT THE PYRAMID—Serves seafood and Southern fare, including cornmeal-fried oysters, sweet tea brined chicken, and elk chops. 1 Bass Pro Dr. 620-4600/291-8200. L, D, $-$$$

LUNA RESTAURANT & LOUNGE—Serving a limited menu of breakfast and lunch items. Dinner entrees include citrus glaze salmon and Cajun stuffed chicken. 179 Madison (Hotel Napoleon). 526-0002. B, D (Mon.-Sat.), $-$$$

MACIEL’S—Entrees include tortas, fried taco plates, quesadillas, chorizo and pastor soft tacos, salads, and more. Closed Sun. 45 S. Main. 526-0037, MRA, $

MAHOGANY RIVER TERRACE—Upscale Southern restaurant offers such dishes as coffee-rubbed lamb chops and baked Cajun Cornish hen. Closed for dinner Sun. and all day Mon.-Tues. 280 Island Drive, 901-249-9774. L, D, SB, $-$$$

THE MAJESTIC GRILLE—Features aged steaks, fresh seafood, and such specialties as roasted chicken and grilled pork tenderloin; offers a pre-theater menu and classic cocktails. Well-stocked bar. 145 S. Main. 522-8555. L, D, WB, MRA, $-$$$

McEWEN’S—Southern/American cuisine with international flavors; specialties include steak and seafood, sweet potato-crusted catfish with macaroni and cheese, and more. Closed Sun., Monroe location. 120 Monroe. 527-7085; 1110 Van Buren (Oxford). 662-234-7003. L, D, SB (Oxford only), MRA, $$-$$$ MESQUITE CHOP HOUSE—The focus here is on steaks, including prime fillet, rib-eyes, and prime-aged New York strip; also, some seafood options. 5960 Getwell (Southaven). 662-890-2467; 88 Union. 527-5337. 249-5661. D, SB, $$-$$$

MOLLIE FONTAINE LOUNGE—Specializes in tapas (small plates) featuring global cuisine. Closed Sun.-Tues. 679 Adams Ave. 524-1886. D, MRA, $

MOMMA’S ROADHOUSE—This diner and dive at Highway 55 serves up smoked wings, burgers, and beer, among other solid barfood options 855 Kentucky. 207-5111. L, D, MRA, $

PAULETTE’S—Presents fine dining with a Continental flair, including such entrees as filet Paulette with butter cream sauce and crabmeat and spinach crepes; also changing daily specials and great views. River Inn. 50 Harbor Town Square. 260-3300. B, L, D, WB, MRA, $-$$$

PLANT BASED HEAT EXPRESS—Flavorful, 100% vegan meals, including plants, plant-based meat, and kid’s meals. No reservations. Closed Sun. 363 S. Front St. 570-5339. L, D, $-$$

PRETTY TACO Fast casual tacos with a Memphis twist, like the Soul Burger tacos. Closed Sun./Mon. 265 S. Front St. 509-8120. L, D, $-$$

PROMISE South Main soul food restaurant (think turkey necks, meatloaf, fried catfish) using old family recipes. Closed Sun./Mon. 412 S. Main. L, D, $-$$

RENDEZVOUS, CHARLES VERGOS’—Menu items include barbecued ribs, cheese plates, skillet shrimp, red beans and rice, and Greek salads. Closed Sun.-Mon. 52 S. Second. 523-2746. L (Fri.Sat.), D, $-$$

ROCK’N DOUGH—A blend of Italian and American foods like artisan pizza, salads, pasta, burgers, and house-brewed beers. 704 Madison Ave. 587-6256. L, D, $-$$

SABOR CARIBE—Serving up “Caribbean flavors” with dishes from Colombia, Venezuela, Puerto Rico, and Cuba. Closed Sunday. 662 Madison. 949-8100. L, D, $

SAGE—Restaurant and lounge features daily lunch specials and tapas with such dishes as braised short ribs, teriyaki pulled pork, and the Sage burger made with Angus beef, avocado mash, fried egg, and flash-fried sage. 94 S. Main. 672-7902. L, D, WB, $-$$

SILLY GOOSE LOUNGE—Gourmet, wood-fired pizzas and handcrafted cocktails at this downtown restaurant and lounge. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 111. 435-6915. L, D, $

SMURFEY’S SMOKEHOUSE—The beloved food truck has found a permanent home for their famous loaded nachos and fries with plans of adding breakfast soon. Closed Sun. and Mon. 149 Madison Ave. 337-7966. L, D, $-$$

SOUTH MAIN SUSHI & GRILL—Serving sushi, nigiri, and more. 520 S. Main. 249-2194. L, D, $

SOB—Elevated gastropub that serves favorites like general Tso’s cauliflower or duck fried rice. 345 S. Main. 526-0388; 5040 Sanderlin (East Memphis). 818-0821; 1329 W. Poplar Ave. 286-1360. L, D, WB, $-$$

SOUTH POINT GROCERY—Fresh and delicious sandwiches made to order at Downtown’s new grocery market. 136 Webster Ave. B, L, D, $

SUGAR GRITS—Who said breakfast has to be in the morning? The Westmorelands offer grits and other breakfast goodness all day long, in addition to other Southern-style lunch and dinner options. 150 Peabody Pl., Suite 111. 249-5206. B, L, D, $-$$

SUNRISE MEMPHIS—Serves breakfast all day, including house-made biscuits, frittatas, kielbasa or boudin plates, and breakfast platters. 670 Jefferson. 552-3144; 5469 Poplar Ave. (East Memphis). 844-6117. B, L, MRA, $

TERRACE—Creative American and Continental cuisine includes such dishes as filet mignon, beef or lamb sliders, chicken satay, and mushroom pizzetta. Rooftop, River Inn of Harbor Town, 50 Harbor Town Square. 260-3366. D, MRA, $$

TEXAS DE BRAZIL—Serves beef, pork, lamb, and chicken dishes, and Brazilian sausage; also a salad bar with extensive toppings. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 103. 526-7600. L (Wed.-Fri.), D, WB, $$-$$$

TUG’S—Famous for New Orleans gumbo, fabulous burgers, fried thin catfish, and specialty pancakes. Now serving Grisanti Crafted Pizza. 51 Harbor Town Square. 260-3344. B, L, D, WB, $$-$$$

WAHLBURGERS WILD—Wahlburgers brings its classic menu, but with a few gamey twists at the Bass Pro Pyramid. 1 Bass Pro Drive. B, L, D, $-$$

WESTY’S—Extensive menu includes a variety of wild rice dishes, sandwiches, plate lunches, and hot fudge pie. 346 N. Main. 543-3278. L, D, $

WINGMAN—Downtown lounge and hookah bar offering wings galore with ten signature sauces, and plenty of other goodies. 143 Madison Ave. L, D, WB, $-$$

MIDTOWN (INCLUDES THE MEDICAL CENTER)

ABNER’S FAMOUS CHICKEN—Fried chicken tenders and dipping sauces galore at this Mid-South staple. 1350 Concourse Ave, Suite 137. 425-2597; (East Memphis) 1591 Poplar Ave. 509-3351; (Cordova) 1100 N. Germantown Pkwy. 754-5355. L, D, $-$$

ABYSSINIA RESTAURANT—Ethiopian/Mediterranean menu includes beef, chicken, lamb, fish entrees, and vegetarian dishes; also a lunch buffet. 2600 Poplar. 321-0082. L, D, $-$$

ALCHEMY / SALT|SOY—Handcrafted cocktails and local craft beers with the Asian fusion dining concept from Salt|Soy. 940 S. Cooper. 726-4444. D, SB, $-$$

ART BAR—Inventive cocktails feature locally foraged ingredients; snacks include house-cured salt & vinegar potato chips and herb-roasted olives. Closed Mon. 1350 Concourse Avenue #280. 507-8030. D, $

ASHTAR GARDEN—Southern twists on classic brunch dishes, and plenty of cocktails. Closed Mon.-Wed. 898 Cooper St. 4431514. L, D, $-$$

BABALU TACOS & TAPAS—Spanish-style tapas with Southern flair; also taco and enchilada of the day; specials change daily. 2115 Madison. 274-0100; 6450 Poplar, 410-8909. L, D, SB, MRA, $-$$

BAIN BARBECUE & BAKERY—Brian Bain’s popular Texas-style barbecue is back, alongside an assortment of baked goods. 993 S. Cooper. 310-4141. B, L, $-$$

BAR DKDC—Features an ever-changing menu of international “street food,” from Thai to Mexican, Israeli to Indian, along with specialty cocktails. 964 S. Cooper. 272-0830. D, MRA, $

BAR KEOUGH—It’s old-school eats and cocktails at the new CooperYoung neighborhood corner bar by Kevin Keough. 247 Cooper St. D, $ BAR-B-Q SHOP—Dishes up barbecued ribs, spaghetti, bologna, other classics. Closed Sun. 1782 Madison. 272-1277. L, D, MRA, $-$$

BARI RISTORANTE ENOTECA—Authentic Southeastern Italian cuisine (Puglia) emphasizes lighter entrees. Serves fresh fish and beef dishes and a homemade soup of the day. 524 S. Cooper. 722-2244. D, SB, MRA, $-$$$

BARKSDALE RESTAURANT—Old-school diner serving breakfast and Southern plate lunches. 237 S. Cooper. 722-2193. B, L, D, $ (Temporarily closed.)

BAYOU BAR & GRILL—New Orleans fare at this Overton Square eatery includes jambalaya, gumbo, catfish Acadian, shrimp dishes, red beans and rice, and muffalettas. 2094 Madison. 278-8626. L, D, WB, MRA, $-$$

BEAUTY SHOP—Modern American cuisine with international flair served in a former beauty shop. Serves steaks, salads, pasta, and seafood, including pecan-crusted golden sea bass. Perennial “Best Brunch” winner. Closed for dinner Sunday. 966 S. Cooper. 272-7111. L, D, SB, MRA, $-$$$

BOSCOS—Tennessee’s first craft brewery serves a variety of freshly brewed beers as well as wood-fired oven pizzas, pasta, seafood, steaks, and sandwiches. 2120 Madison. 432-2222. L, D, SB (with live jazz), MRA, $-$$

BROADWAY PIZZA—Serving a variety of pizzas, including the Broadway Special, as well as sandwiches, salads, wings, and soul-food specials. 2581 Broad. 454-7930; 627 S. Mendenhall. 207-1546. L, D, $-$$

CAFE 1912—French/American bistro owned by culinary pioneer Glenn Hays serving such seafood entrees as seared sea scallops with charred cauliflower purée and chorizo cumin sauce; also crepes, salads, and onion soup gratinée. 243 S. Cooper. 722-2700. D, SB, MRA, $-$$$

CAFE ECLECTIC—Omelets and chicken and waffles are among menu items, along with quesadillas, sandwiches, wraps, and burgers. Menu varies by location. 603 N. McLean. 725-1718; 111 Harbor Town Square. 590-4645. B, L, D, SB, MRA, $

CAFE OLÉ—This eatery specializes in authentic Mexican cuisine; one specialty is the build-your-own quesadilla. 959 S. Cooper. 343-0103. L, D, SB, MRA, $-$$

CAFE PALLADIO—Serves gourmet salads, soups, sandwiches, and desserts in a tea room inside the antiques shop. Closed Sun. 2169 Central. 278-0129. L, $

CAMEO—Three longtime Memphis bartenders join forces for creative cocktails, cheese boards, snacks, and Sunday brunch. 1835 Union Ave., Suite 3. 305-6511. D, SB, $-$$

CELTIC CROSSING—Specializes in Irish and American pub fare. Entrees include shepherd’s pie, shrimp and sausage coddle, and fish and chips. 903 S. Cooper. 274-5151. L, D, WB, MRA, $-$$

CENTRAL BBQ—Serves ribs, smoked hot wings, pulled pork sandwiches, chicken, turkey, nachos, and portobello sandwiches. Offers both pork and beef barbecue. 2249 Central Ave. 272-9377; 4375 Summer Ave. 767-4672; 147 E. Butler. 672-7760 ; 6201 Poplar. 4177962. L, D, MRA, $-$$

COMPLICATED PILGRIM—Quick-serve coffee shop, bar, and restaurant all in one at The Memphian hotel. 21 S. Cooper St. 538-7309. B, L, D, $-$$

THE COVE—Nautical-themed restaurant and bar serving oysters, pizzas, and more. The Stoner Pie, with tamales and fritos, is a popular dish. 2559 Broad. 730-0719. L, D, $

THE CRAZY NOODLE—Korean noodle dishes range from bibam beef noodle with cabbage, carrots, and other vegetables, to curry chicken noodle; also rice cakes served in a flavorful sauce. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 2015 Madison. 272-0928. L, D, $

ECCO—Mediterranean-inspired specialties range from rib-eye steak to seared scallops to housemade pastas and a grilled vegetable plate; also a Saturday brunch. Closed Sun.-Mon. 1585 Overton Park. 410-8200. B, L, D, $-$$

EVERGREEN GRILL—Serving classic American cuisine like patty melts, burgers, phillies, and more to bring you the comforting taste of

home. Closed Mon./Tue. 212 N. Evergreen St. 779-7065. L, D, X,$$-$$$

FARM BURGER—Serves grass-fed, freshly ground, locally sourced burgers; also available with chicken, pork, or veggie quinoa patties, with such toppings as aged white cheddar, kale coleslaw, and roasted beets. 1350 Concourse Avenue, Suite 175. 800-1851. L, D, $

THE FARMER AT RAILGARTEN—Farmer classics include panseared catfish, gulf shrimp and grits, or a Gibson donut bread pudding. Closed Mon./Tue. 2166 Central. 313-0087. D, $-$$

FEAST & GRAZE—Whipped goat toast, open-faced grilled cheese, and other local pantry snacks and charcuterie boards. Closed Sun./Mon. Inside Brooks Museum, 1934 Poplar. 654-5926. L, $

FINO’S FROM THE HILL—Italian deli offers old favorites such as the Acquisto as well as a new breakfast menu. Germantown location paired with Happy Glaze Donuts. 1853 Madison. 272-FINO; 7781 Farmington Blvd. (Germantown). B, L, D, $

FLAME RAMEN—Traditional Japanese ramen restaurant serving up bowls of noodles in Midtown. 1838 Union Ave. 779-8666; 61 S. Second St., Suite 160 (downtown). D, $-$$

FLIP SIDE—Pinball meets pub in the Crosstown neighborhood, with plenty of games alongside a Caribbean- and Latin-inspired menu. Closed Mon. 1349 Autumn Ave. 207-6193. L, D, $-$$

FRIDA’S—Mexican cuisine and Tex-Mex standards, including chimichangas, enchiladas, and fajitas; seafood includes shrimp and tilapia. 1718 Madison. 244-6196. L, D, $-$$

GLOBAL CAFÉ—This international food hall hosts three immigrant/refugee food entrepreneurs serving Venezuelan, Sudanese, and Syrian cuisines. Samosas, shawarma, and kabobs are among the menu items. Closed Mon. 1350 Concourse Avenue, Suite 157. L, D, MRA, $

GOLDEN INDIA—Northern Indian specialties include tandoori chicken as well as lamb, beef, shrimp, and vegetarian dishes. 2097 Madison. 728-5111. L, D, $-$$

GOOD GROCERIES MARKET & CAFÉ—Providing fresh, healthy, cruelty-free meals, Good Groceries offers a classic American menu with a twist: instead of pork, they use duck for their BBQ. They also sell quesadillas, mac-and-cheese, sandwiches, and more. Closed Sun. 585 S. Cooper St. 325-1269. B, L, D, $

GROWLERS—Sports bar and eatery serves standard bar fare in addition to pasta, tacos, chicken and waffles, and light options. 1911 Poplar. 244-7904. L, D, $-$$

GUAC FRESH MEX—Authentic Mexican cuisine and four types of guacamole. Closed Sun. 782 Washington Ave. 587-4100. L, D, $ HATTIE B’S—Fried chicken spot features “hot chicken” with a variety of heat levels; from no heat to “shut the cluck up” sauce. Sides include greens, pimento mac-and-cheese, and black-eyed pea salad. 596 S. Cooper. 424-5900. L, D, $

HUEY’S—This family-friendly restaurant offers 13 different burgers, a variety of sandwiches, and delicious soups and salads. 1927 Madison. 726-4372; 1771 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 7543885; 77 S. Second (downtown). 527-2700; 2130 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-4455; 7090 Malco Blvd. (Southaven). 662-349-7097; 7825 Winchester. 624-8911; 4872 Poplar. 682-7729; 7677 Farmington Blvd. (Germantown). 318-3030; 8570 Highway 51 N. (Millington). 873-5025. L, D, MRA, $

IMAGINE VEGAN CAFE—Dishes at this fully vegan restaurant range from salads and sandwiches to full dinners, including eggplant parmesan and “beef” tips and rice; breakfast all day Sat. and Sun. 2158 Young. 654-3455. L, D, WB, $

INDIA PALACE—Tandoori chicken, lamb shish kabobs, and chicken tikka masala are among the entrees; also, vegetarian options and a daily all-you-can-eat lunch buffet. 1720 Poplar. 278-1199. L, D, $-$$

INSPIRE COMMUNITY CAFE—Serving breakfast all day, in addition to quesadillas, rice bowls, and more for lunch and dinner. 510 Tillman, Suite 110. 509-8640. B, L, D, $

JACK BROWN’S BEER AND BURGER JOINT—Another spot to satisfy your burger craving, this time with 100% American Wagyu beef. 2197 Central Ave. 512-6957. L, D, $-$$$

LAFAYETTE’S MUSIC ROOM—Serves such Southern cuisine as po’boys, shrimp and grits, and wood-fired pizzas. 2119 Madison. 2075097. L, D, WB, MRA, $-$$

LOS COMALES—Authentic Mexican cuisine, daily specials, and strong margaritas. 1322 Madison. 440-8393; 345 Madison Ave. (downtown). 590-4524; 2860 S. Perkins (East Memphis). 369-0528. L, D, $-$$

THE LIQUOR STORE—Renovated liquor store turned diner serves all-day breakfast, sandwiches, and entrees such as Salisbury steak and

smothered pork chops. 2655 Broad. 405-5477; 669 S. Mendenhall Rd. (East Memphis). B, L, D, $-$$

LOUIS CONNELLY’S BAR FOR FUN TIMES & FRIENDSHIP—An upgraded dive bar with a neighborhood feel and a rockin’ SMASH burger. Closed Sun. and Mon. 322 S. Cleveland St. 433-9582. L, D, $-$$

MADISON TAVERN—Indoor and outdoor seating available, plus a full menu with a range of comfort foods and drinks on tap. 2126 Madison Ave. 417-8029. L, D, $-$$$

MARY’S B.O.T.E.—This bar of tropical escapism offers over 30 specialty drinks, pizzas, bar snacks, and a cozy interior that transports customers to the beach. 21+ only. Closed Mon. 588 S. Cooper St. No phone number. D, wheelchair accessible, $

MEMPHIS PIZZA CAFE—Homemade pizzas are specialties; also serves sandwiches, calzones, and salads. 2087 Madison. 726-5343; 5061 Park Ave. 684-1306; 7604 W. Farmington (Germantown). 7532218; 797 W. Poplar (Collierville). 861-7800; 5627 Getwell (Southaven). 662-536-1364. L, D, $-$$

MEMPHIS TOAST—Provides authentic Memphian breakfast cuisine and features themed rooms to honor iconic Memphis figures. Specialties include French toast, shrimp and grits, and their little Lucille breakfast burrito. 954 Jackson Ave. 417-7817. B, L, WB, $-$$

MEMPHIS WHISTLE—Cocktails, cocktails, and even more delicious cocktails alongside burgers, sandwiches, and other tasty snacks. 2299 Young Ave. Closed Mon.-Tue. 236-7136. D, $-$$

MOLLY’S LA CASITA—Homemade tamales, fish tacos, a vegetarian combo, and bacon-wrapped shrimp are a few of the specialties. 2006 Madison. 726-1873. L, D, MRA, $-$$

PAYNE’S BAR-B-QUE—Opened in 1972, this family-owned barbecue joint serves ribs, smoked sausage, and chopped pork sandwiches with a standout mustard slaw and homemade sauce. About as down-to-earth as it gets. 1762 Lamar. 272-1523. L, D, $-$$

PETALS OF A PEONY—Authentic Chinese restaurant serving chicken, fish, tofu, and more, smothered in spicy sauces. 2110 Madison Ave. 207-6680. L, D, $-$$$

THE PUBLIC BISTRO—Knifebird owners’ full-service American bistro with a menu by chef Gannon Hamilton. 937 S. Cooper St. Closed Sun. 509-2113. D, $-$$

SALTWATER CRAB—Offers an array of seafood dishes including boils with blue crab, crab legs, lobster tails, and more, and specialty sushi like the Dynamite or Royal King rolls, in addition to signature sangrias and cocktails. 2059 Madison Ave. 922-5202. L, D, $$

THE SECOND LINE—Kelly English brings “relaxed Creole cuisine” to his newest eatery; serves a variety of po’boys and such specialties as barbecue shrimp, andouille shrimp, and pimento cheese fries. 2144 Monroe. 590-2829. L, D, WB, $-$$

SEKISUI—Japanese fusion cuisine, fresh sushi bar, grilled meats and seafood, California rolls, and vegetarian entrees. Poplar/ Perkins location’s emphasis is on Pacific Rim cuisine. Menu and hours vary at each location. 25 Belvedere. 725-0005; 1884 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 309-8800; 4724 Poplar. 767-7770; 2130 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-0622; 2990 Kirby-Whitten (Bartlett). 377-2727; 6696 Poplar. 747-0001. L, D, $-$$$

SEN TRANG—Serving a wide variety of Chinese and Vietnamese soups, stir-fries, and noodles. 1615 Madison Ave. 276-0006. L, D, wheelchair accessible, $-$$

SHROOMLICIOUS MEALS—Vegan eatery with a heavy blend of (as the name implies) mushrooms. Closed Mon. and Tues. 394 N. Watkins St. 205-8413. L, D, $

SLICE MIDTOWN—Serving New York-style pizza as well as subs and pasta dishes (formerly known as Little Italy). 1495 Union. 725-0280; L, D, $-$$

SMOKY CITY BBQ—Serving authentic Memphis barbeque, including burgers, ribs, wings, and daily specials. Closed Sun. 1023 Jackson Ave. 425-3115. L, D, $-$$$

SOUL FISH CAFE—Serving Southern-style soul food, tacos, and po’boys, including catfish, crawfish, oyster, shrimp, chicken, and smoked pork tenderloin. 862 S. Cooper. 725-0722; 3160 Village Shops Dr. (Germantown). 755-6988; 4720 Poplar. 590-0323. L, D, MRA, $-$$

STICKEM—Brick-and-mortar location for the popular food truck, which offers grilled meat on a stick. 1788 Madison. Closed Sunday. 474-7214. L, D, $

TEKILA MEXICAN CUISINE—Mexican cuisine with a modern twist. Specialties include chicken mole, enchiladas verde, and the trio special. 1433 Union Ave. 510-5734. L, D, WB, wheelchair accessible, $-$$$

TAMBOLI’S PASTA & PIZZA—Pasta-maker Miles Tamboli whips up Italian soul food with seasonal menus featuring dishes like crispy

fried chicken or creamy bucatini with pecorino cheese. Serves dinner Tues.-Sat. 1761 Madison. 410-8866. D, $-$$

TAKASHI BISTRO—Fusion restaurant with an open kitchen that lets customers watch chefs prepare a variety of Japanese and Thai cuisine. 1680 Union Ave., Suite 109. 800-2936. L, D, $-$$.

TJ MULLIGAN’S—Cold drinks, comfort food, and plenty of live entertainment. 2021 Madison. 725-0770; 1817 Kirby Pkwy. (East Memphis). 755-2481; 8070 Trinity Rd. Suite 1 (Cordova). 756-4480; 2821 N. Houston Levee Rd. (Lakeland). 377-9997. L, D, $-$$

TONICA—Paella and other Spanish-inspired dishes with an Italian touch, alongside an extensive list of gin and tonics. 1545 Overton Park. Closed Mon.-Wed. D, $-$$

TSUNAMI—Features Pacific Rim cuisine (Asia, Australia, South Pacific, etc.); also a changing “small plate” menu. Chef Ben Smith is a Cooper-Young pioneer. Specialties include Asian nachos and roasted sea bass. Closed Sunday. 928 S. Cooper. 274-2556. D, MRA, $$-$$$

TUYEN’S ASIAN BISTRO—A variety of Asian dishes from the minds and chefs behind Saigon Le. Closed Sun. 288 N. Cleveland. L, D, $-$$

VIBE FOODS—By way of Colorado, superfood bar serves up clean and delicious meals and juices. Closed Sun. 1350 Concourse Ave. 572-1127; 3139 Poplar Ave. (East Memphis). 207-2535. B, L, $-$$

ZINNIE’S—Dive bar classic reopens with a makeover and signature Zinnaloni sandwich. 1688 Madison. 726-5004. L, D, $

SOUTH MEMPHIS (INCLUDES PARKWAY VILLAGE, FOX MEADOWS, SOUTH MEMPHIS, WINCHESTER, AND WHITEHAVEN)

BALA’S BISTRO—Authentic West African cuisine available to order or by the pound, alongside traditional American dishes and an extensive vegan menu. 4571 Elvis Presley Blvd. 509-3024. L, D, $-$$

CACHE 42 KITCHEN & COCKTAILS—Elevated fine dining (think golden rack of lamb or lobster queso) and cocktail lounge at MoneyBagg Yo’s restaurant; menu by chef Daris Leatherwood. Brunch and lunch options coming soon. 4202 Hacks Cross Rd., Suite 121. 494-5458. D, $-$$

COLETTA’S—Longtime eatery serves such specialties as homemade ravioli, lasagna, and pizza with barbecue or traditional toppings. 1063 S. Parkway E. 948-7652; 2850 Appling Rd. (Bartlett). 383-1122. L, D, $-$$

CURRY BOWL—Specializes in Southern Indian cuisine, serving Tandoori chicken, biryani, tikka masala, and more. Weekend buffet. 4141 Hacks Cross Rd. 207-6051. L, D, $

DELTA’S KITCHEN—The premier restaurant at The Guest House at Graceland serves Elvis-inspired dishes — like Nutella and Peanut Butter Crepes for breakfast — and upscale Southern cuisine — including lamb chops and shrimp and grits — for dinner. 3600 Elvis Presley Blvd. 443-3000. B, D, $-$$$

DWJ KOREAN BARBECUE—This authentic Korean eatery serves kimbap, barbecued beef short ribs, rice and noodles dishes, and hot pots and stews. 3750 Hacks Cross Rd., Suite 101. 746-8057; 2156 Young. 207-6204. L, D, $-$$

FABULOUS FLAVORS & FRIENDS ”The Candy Lady” Precious Thompson Jones comes up with a little bit of everything: omelettes, quesadillas, t-bones and waffles, and plenty of soul food. 2063 E. Brooks Rd. 314-0735. L, D, $

THE FOUR WAY—Legendary soul-food establishment dishing up such entrees as fried and baked catfish, chicken, and turkey and dressing, along with a host of vegetables and desserts. Around the corner from the legendary Stax Studio. Closed Mon. 998 Mississippi Blvd. 507-1519. L, D, $

HERNANDO’S HIDEAWAY No one cares how late it gets; not at Hernando’s Hideaway. Live music, killer happy hour, and plenty of bar fare at this South Memphis hang. 3210 Old Hernando Rd. 917-982-1829. L, D, $

INTERSTATE BAR-B-Q—Specialties include chopped pork-shoulder sandwiches, ribs, hot wings, spaghetti, chicken, and turkey. 2265 S. Third. 775-2304; 150 W. Stateline Rd. (Southaven). 662-393-5699. L, D, $-$$

JIM & SAMELLA’S—It’s a revolving menu of soul food delight from Chef Talbert Fleming, with anything from Southern ribs to fried tamales. 841 Bullington Ave. 265-8761. L, D, $

LEONARD’S—Serves wet and dry ribs, barbecue sandwiches, spaghetti, catfish, homemade onion rings, and lemon icebox pie; also a lunch buffet. 5465 Fox Plaza. 360-1963. L, $-$$

MARLOWE’S—In addition to its signature barbecue and ribs, Marlowe’s serves Southern-style steaks, chops, lasagna, and more. 4381 Elvis Presley Blvd. 332-4159. D, MRA, $-$$

UNCLE LOU’S FRIED CHICKEN—Featured on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives for good reason: fried chicken (mild, hot, or home-style); jumbo burgers four patties high; strawberry shortcake, and assorted fruit pies. 3633 Millbranch. 332-2367. L, D, MRA, $

SUMMER/BERCLAIR/ RALEIGH/BARTLETT

901 HOT POT & KOREAN BBQ—All-you-can-eat hot pot and Korean BBQ, from short ribs to garlic shrimp. 2965 N. Germantown Pkwy. 512-4963. L, D, $$-$$$

BISCUITS & JAMS—Biscuits, waffles, French toast, and plenty of sharables at this Bartlett breakfast spot. Closed Mon./Tue. 5806 Stage Rd. 672-7905. B, L, $

BRYANT’S BREAKFAST—Slingin’ famous biscuits, plate lunches, chicken fried steak, and other breakfast classics since 1968. 3965 Summer Ave. 324-7494. B, L, $

CEVICHERIA AND GRILL CHILEMON—Ceviche, of course, but also plenty of other postres, aperitivos, and mixed grilled meat and seafood feasts. Closed Sun. 4509 Summer Ave. 672-7905. L, D, $

CHEF FLAVAS AND BARTLETT BREAKFAST FACTORY

”Flavaful” sandwiches, soups, pastas, and more from the makers of the popular local spinach artichoke dip. Traditional breakfast options served by Bartlett Breakfast Factory. Closed Sun./Mon. 6301 Stage Rd. 7792200. B, L, D, $-$$

DIM SUM KING—All the best from a selection of authentic Chinese dishes: roasted duck, sizzling hot plate, Cantonese BBQ, and plenty more. 5266 Summer Ave. Suite 65. 766-0831. L, D, $-$$

ELWOOD’S SHACK—Casual comfort food includes tacos, pizza, and sandwiches. Specialties include meats smoked in-house (chicken, turkey, brisket, pork), barbecue pizza, and steelhead trout tacos. 4523 Summer. 7619898; 4040 Park Ave. 754-2520. B, L, D, $

EXLINES’ BEST PIZZA—Serves pizza, Italian dinners, sandwiches, and salads. 6250 Stage Rd. 382-3433; 2935 Austin Peay. 388-4711; 2801 Kirby Parkway. 754-0202; 7730 Wolf River Blvd. (Germantown). 753-4545; 531 W. Stateline Rd. 662-342-4544. L, D, MRA, $

LA TAQUERIA GUADALUPANA—Fajitas and quesadillas are just a few of the authentic Mexican entrees offered here. A bona-fide Memphis institution. 4818 Summer. 685-6857; 5848 Winchester. 3654992. L, D, $

LOTUS—Authentic Vietnamese-Asian fare, including lemon-grass chicken and shrimp, egg rolls, Pho soup, and spicy Vietnamese vermicelli. 4970 Summer. 682-1151. D, $

MORTIMER’S—Contemporary American entrees include trout almondine, chicken dishes, and hand-cut steaks; also sandwiches, salads, and daily/nightly specials. A Memphis landmark since the Knickerbocker closed. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 590 N. Perkins. 7619321. L, D, $-$$

NAGASAKI INN—Chicken, steak, and lobster are among the main courses; meal is cooked at your table. 3951 Summer. 454-0320. D, $$ NAM KING—General Tso’s chicken, hot and sour soup, and homemade chicken wings are back at the longtime Raleigh Chinese eatery. 3624 Austin Peay Highway, Suite 3. 373-4411. L, D, $-$$

ÓRALE TACOS & BAKERY—Tacos, enchiladas, and other traditional Southern Mexican dishes alongside baked pan dulces. 2204 Whitten Rd. 571-1786. B, L, D, $-$$

PANDA GARDEN—Sesame chicken and broccoli beef are among the Mandarin and Cantonese entrees; also seafood specials and fried rice. Closed for lunch Saturday. 3735 Summer. 323-4819. L, D, $-$$

QUEEN OF SHEBA—Featuring Middle Eastern favorites and Yemeni dishes such as lamb haneeth and saltah. 4792 Summer. 207-4174. L, D, $

SIDE PORCH STEAK HOUSE—In addition to steak, the menu includes chicken, pork chops, and fish entrees; homemade rolls are a specialty. Closed Sun./Mon. 5689 Stage Rd. 377-2484. D, $-$$

TORTILLERIA LA UNICA—Individual helping of Mexican street food, including hefty tamales, burritos, tortas, and sopes. 5015 Summer Ave. 685-0097. B, L, D, $

UNIVERSITY NEIGHBORHOOD DISTRICT (INCLUDES CHICKASAW GARDENS AND HIGHLAND STRIP)

A-TAN—Serves Chinese and Japanese hibachi cuisine, complete with sushi bar. A specialty is Four Treasures with garlic sauce. 3445 Poplar, Suite 17, University Center. 452-4477. L, D, $-$$$

BROTHER JUNIPER’S—This little cottage is a breakfast mecca, offering specialty omelets, including the open-faced San Diegan omelet; also daily specials, and homemade breads and pastries. Closed Mon. 3519 Walker. 324-0144. B, $

CHAR RESTAURANT—Specializing in modern Southern cuisine, this eatery offers homestyle sides, charbroiled steaks, and fresh seafood. 431 S. Highland, Suite 120. 249-3533. L, D, WB, MRA, $-$$$

EL PORTON—Fajitas, quesadillas, and steak ranchero are just a few of the menu items. 2095 Merchants Row (Germantown). 754-4268; 8361 Highway 64. 380-7877; 3448 Poplar (Poplar Plaza). 452-7330; 1805 N. Germantown Parkway (Cordova). 624-9358; 1016 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-5770. L, D, MRA, $-$$

PLANT BASED HEAT All of your favorite Southern-style recipes, but deliciously transformed into a vegan format. Specialties include the spicy fye junt burger, or the chopped ‘n’ smoked BBQ jackfruit sandwich. Closed Sun. 669 S. Highland St.; 363 S. Front St. (downtown). L, D, $

SAM’S DELI—Everything from sandwiches to bibimbap bowls at this local favorite. Closed Mon./Tue. 643 S. Highland St. 454-5582. L, D, $ EAST MEMPHIS (INCLUDES POPLAR/I-240)

ACRE—Features seasonal modern American cuisine in an avantegarde setting using locally sourced products; also small plates and enclosed garden patio. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 690 S. Perkins. 818-2273. L, D, $$-$$$ AGAVOS COCINA & TEQUILA—Camaron de Tequila, tamales, kabobs, and burgers made with a blend of beef and chorizo are among the offerings at this tequila-centric restaurant and bar. 2924 Walnut Grove. 433-9345. L, D, $-$$

AMERIGO—Traditional and contemporary Italian cuisine includes pasta, wood-fired pizza, steaks, and cedarwood-roasted fish. 1239 Ridgeway, Park Place Mall. 761-4000. L, D, SB, MRA, $-$$$ ANDALUSIA— Authentic Moroccan cuisine, including tagines, brochettes, and briouates. 5101 Sanderlin Ave., Suite 103. 236-7784. L, D, $-$$

ANDREW MICHAEL ITALIAN KITCHEN—Traditional Italian cuisine with a menu from two of the city’s top chefs that changes seasonally with such entrees as Maw Maw’s ravioli. Closed Sun.-Mon. 712 W. Brookhaven Circle. 347-3569. D, MRA, $$-$$$

ANOTHER BROKEN EGG CAFE—Offering several varieties of eggs Benedict, waffles, omelets, pancakes, beignets, and other breakfast fare; also burgers, sandwiches, and salads. 6063 Park Ave. 729-7020; 65 S. Highland. 623-7122. B, L, WB, $

ANTIGUA MEXICAN BAR & GRILL—Tortas, tacos, and other authentic Mexican cuisine alongside freshly-made salsa, guacamole, and white queso dip. 717 N. White Station Rd. 761-1374. L, D, $-$$

BANGKOK ALLEY—Thai fusion cuisine includes noodle and curry dishes, chef-specialty sushi rolls, coconut soup, and duck and seafood entrees. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. at Brookhaven location; call for hours. 715 W. Brookhaven Circle. 590-2585; 2150 W. Poplar at Houston Levee (Collierville). 854-8748. L, D, $-$$

BELLE MEADE SOCIAL—Upscale Americana cuisine including lamb lollipops, spicy tuna stack, and steak & noodle salad. 518 Perkins Extd. 480-7054. L, D, $-$$$

BELMONT GRILL—Burgers, steak sandwiches, and other classic American fare at one of Memphis’ longstanding bars. 4970 Poplar. 767-0305. L, D, $-$$

BENIHANA—This Japanese steakhouse serves beef, chicken, and seafood grilled at the table; some menu items change monthly; sushi bar also featured. 912 Ridge Lake Blvd. 767-8980. L, D, $$-$$$

BIG BAD BREAKFAST—Fresh biscuits, house-made cured meats, jams, jellies, and more for the most important meal of the day. 6450 Poplar. 881-3346. B, L, $-$$

BOG & BARLEY—An all-Irish fine dining experience by the owners of Celtic Crossing, and a full bar with plenty of beer and 25-year-old Macallan. 6150 Poplar, Suite 124. 805-2262. L, D, WB, $-$$

BROOKLYN BRIDGE ITALIAN RESTAURANT—Specializing in such homemade entrees as spinach lasagna and lobster ravioli; a seafood specialty is horseradish-crusted salmon. Closed Sun. 1779 Kirby Pkwy. 755-7413. D, $-$$$

BRYANT’S BREAKFAST—Three-egg omelets, pancakes, and The Sampler Platter are among the popular entrees here. Possibly the best biscuits in town. Closed Mon. and Tues. 3965 Summer. 324-7494. B, L, $

CAPITAL GRILLE—Known for its dry-aged, hand-carved steaks; among the specialties are bone-in sirloin, and porcini-rubbed Delmonico; also seafood entrees and seasonal lunch plates. Closed for lunch Sat.Sun. Crescent Center, 6065 Poplar. 683-9291. L, D, $$$-$$$$

CASABLANCA—Lamb shawarma is one of the fresh, homemade specialties served at this Mediterranean/Moroccan restaurant; fish entrees and vegetarian options also available. 5030 Poplar. 725-8557; 1707 Madison. 421-6949. L, D, $-$$

CHUKIS TACOS 2—Traditional homestyle Mexican recipes. 3445 Poplar Ave., Suite 1. 888-4139. B, L, D, $-$$

CIAO BELLA—Among the Italian and Greek specialties are lasagna, seafood pasta, gourmet pizzas, and vegetarian options. 5101 Sanderlin Ave. 205-2500. D, MRA, $-$$$

CITY SILO TABLE + PANTRY—With a focus on clean eating, this establishment offers fresh juices, as well as comfort foods re-imagined with wholesome ingredients. 5101 Sanderlin. 729-7687. Germantown: 7605 W. Farmington Blvd., Suite 2. 236-7223. B, L, D, $

COASTAL FISH COMPANY—Upscale offerings of international fish varieties utilizing styles ranging from the Carribbean, East Coast, West Coast, China, Philippines, and more. 415 Great View Dr. E., Suite 101. 266-9000. D, $$-$$$

CORKY’S—Popular barbecue emporium offers both wet and dry ribs, plus a full menu of other barbecue entrees. Wed. lunch buffets, Cordova and Collierville. 5259 Poplar. 685-9744; 1740 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 737-1911; 743 W. Poplar (Collierville). 405-4999; 6434 Goodman Rd., Olive Branch. 662-893-3663. L, D, MRA, $-$$

DAN MCGUINNESS PUB—Serves fish and chips, shepherd’s pie, burgers, and other Irish and American fare; also lunch and dinner specials. 4694 Spottswood. 761-3711; 3964 Goodman Rd. 662-8907611. L, D, $

ERLING JENSEN—For decades, Chef Erling has presented “globally inspired” cuisine to die for. Specialties are rack of lamb, big-game entrees, and fresh fish dishes. 1044 S. Yates. 763-3700. D, MRA, $$-$$$

ERLING JENSEN SMALL BITES—Enjoy Erling Jensen’s specialty dishes in a sharable, small-plate format alongside TopGolf Swing suites. 5069 Sanderlin Ave. 587-9464. L, D, $-$$$

FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE—Serves wet-aged and dry-aged steaks, prime beef, chops, and seafood, including salmon, Australian lobster tails, and a catch of the day. 6245 Poplar. 761-6200. D, MRA, $$$-$$$$

FOLK’S FOLLY ORIGINAL PRIME STEAK HOUSE

Specializes in prime steaks, as well as lobster, grilled Scottish salmon, Alaskan king crab legs, rack of lamb, and weekly specials. 551 S. Mendenhall. 762-8200. D, MRA, $$$-$$$$

FORMOSA—Offers Mandarin cuisine, including broccoli beef, hotand-sour soup, and spring rolls. Closed Mon. 6685 Quince. 753-9898. L, D, $-$$

FOX RIDGE PIZZA & GRILL—Pizzas, calzones, sub sandwiches, burgers, and meat-and-two plate lunches are among the dishes served at this eatery, which opened in 1979. 711 W. Brookhaven Circle. 758-6500. L, D, $

FRATELLI’S—Serves hot and cold sandwiches, salads, soups, and desserts, all with an Italian/Mediterranean flair. Closed Sun. 750 Cherry Rd., Memphis Botanic Garden. 766-9900. L, $

HALF SHELL—Specializes in seafood, such as king crab legs; also serves steaks, chicken, pastas, salads, sandwiches, a ”voodoo menu”; oyster bar at Winchester location. 688 S. Mendenhall. 682-3966; 7825 Winchester. 737-6755. L, D, WB, MRA, $-$$$

HEN HOUSE—Hybrid wine/cocktail bar and tasting room with plenty of cosmopolitan eats. Closed Sun. 679 S. Mendenhall. 499-5436. D, $-$$$ HIGH POINT PIZZA—Serves a variety of pizzas, subs, salads, and sides. Closed Mon. A neighborhood fixture. 477 High Point Terrace. 452-3339. L, D, $-$$

HOG & HOMINY—The casual sister to Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen serves brick-oven-baked pizzas, including the Red-Eye with pork belly, and small plates with everything from meatballs to beef and cheddar hot dogs; and local veggies. Closed for lunch Mon. 707 W. Brookhaven Cir. 207-7396. L, D, SB, MRA. $-$$$

LA BAGUETTE—An almond croissant and chicken salad are among specialties at this French-style bistro. Closed for dinner Sun. 3088 Poplar. 458-0900. B, L, D (closes at 7), MRA, $

LAS DELICIAS—Popular for its guacamole, house-made tortilla chips, and margaritas, this restaurant draws diners with its chicken enchiladas, meat-stuffed flautas, and Cuban torta with spicy pork. Closed Sun. 4002 Park Ave. 458-9264; 5689 Quince. 800-2873. L, D, $ LIBRO AT LAURELWOOD—Bookstore eatery features a variety of sandwiches, salads, and homemade pasta dishes, with Italian-inspired options such as carbonara and potato gnocchi. Closed for dinner Sun. 387 Perkins Ext. (inside Novel). 800-2656. B, L, D, SB, $-$$

LITTLE ITALY EAST—New York-style pizzas galore and homemade pasta. Closed Sun. 6300 Poplar Ave., Ste. 113. 729-7432. L, $-$$

MAGNOLIA & MAY—Southern-inspired, family-owned, casual dining restaurant serving up a variety of sandwiches, chef-inspired dishes, and craft cocktails. Popular items include shrimp and grits and

the double cheeseburger. Closed Mon. 718 Mt. Moriah Rd. 676-8100. L, D, WB, MRA. $$-$$$

MANDE DIBI WEST AFRICAN BBQ GRILL—Pairs traditional West African BBQ with Memphis BBQ for a menu that offers a wide variety of flavors, including daily specials and vegan-friendly options. 6825 Winchester Rd. 672-8995. L, D, $-$$$

MARCIANO MEDITERRANEAN AND ITALIAN CUISINE—Veal Saltimbocca with angel-hair pasta and white wine sauce is among the entrees; also steaks, seafood, and gourmet pizza. 780 E. Brookhaven Cir. 682-1660. D, $-$$

MAYURI INDIAN CUISINE—Serves tandoori chicken, masala dosa, tikka masala, as well as lamb and shrimp entrees; also a daily lunch buffet, and dinner buffet on Fri.-Sat. 6524 Quince Rd. 753-8755. L, D, $-$$

MOSA ASIAN BISTRO—Specialties include sesame chicken, Thai calamari, rainbow panang curry with grouper fish, and other Pan Asian/ fusion entrees. Closed Mon. 850 S. White Station Rd. 683-8889. L, D, MRA, $

NAM KING—Offers luncheon and dinner buffets, dim sum, and such specialties as fried dumplings, pepper steak, and orange chicken. 4594 Yale. 373-4411. L, D, $

NAPA CAFE—Among the specialties are miso-marinated salmon over black rice with garlic spinach and shiitake mushrooms. Closed Sun. 5101 Sanderlin, Suite 122. 683-0441. L, D, MRA, $$-$$$

ONE & ONLY BBQ—On the menu are pork barbecue sandwiches, platters, wet and dry ribs, smoked chicken and turkey platters, a smoked meat salad, barbecue quesadillas, Brunswick Stew, and Millie’s homemade desserts. 1779 Kirby Pkwy. 751-3615; 567 Perkins Extd. 249-4227. L, D, $

ONO POKÉ—This eatery specializes in poké — a Hawaiian dish of fresh fish salad served over rice. Menu includes a variety of poké bowls, like the Kimchi Tuna bowl, or customers can build their own by choosing a base, protein, veggies, and toppings. 3145 Poplar. 618-2955. L, D, $

OWEN BRENNAN’S—New Orleans-style menu of beef, chicken, pasta, and seafood; jambalaya, shrimp and grits, and crawfish etouffee are specialties. Closed for dinner Sun. The Regalia, 6150 Poplar. 761-0990. L, D, SB, MRA, $-$$$

PARK + CHERRY—The Dixon offers casual dining within the museum. Seasonal menu features sandwiches, like rustic chicken salad on croissant, as well as salads, snacks, and sweets. Closed for breakfast Sun. and all day Mon. 4339 Park (Dixon Gallery and Gardens). 761-5250. L, $

PATRICK’S—Serves barbecue nachos, burgers, and entrees such as fish and chips; also plate lunches and daily specials. 4972 Park. 682-2852. L, D, MRA, $

PETE & SAM’S—Serving Memphis for 60-plus years; offers steaks, seafood, and traditional Italian dishes, including homemade ravioli, lasagna, and chicken marsala. 3886 Park. 458-0694. D, $-$$$

PF CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO—Specialties are orange peel shrimp, Mongolian beef, and chicken in lettuce wraps; also vegetarian dishes, including spicy eggplant. 1181 Ridgeway Rd., Park Place Centre. 818-3889. L, D, $-$$

PHO SAIGON—Vietnamese fare includes beef teriyaki, roasted quail, curry ginger chicken, vegetarian options, and a variety of soups. 2946 Poplar. 458-1644. L, D, $

PYRO’S FIRE-FRESH PIZZA—Serving gourmet pizzas cooked in an open-fire oven, wide choice of toppings, and large local and craft beer selection. 1199 Ridgeway. 379-8294; 2035 Union Ave. 208-8857; 2286 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 207-1198; 3592 S. Houston Levee (Collierville). 221-8109. L, D, MRA, $

THE READY ROOM—Duck wontons, bananas “Oscar,” and plenty of other bar snacks and entrees at Hook Point Brewing Co.’s taproom. Closed Mon./Tues. 715 W. Brookhaven Cir. 487-6931. L, D, WB, $-$$

RED HOOK CAJUN SEAFOOD & BAR—Cajun-style array of seafood including shrimp, mussels, clams, crawfish, and oysters. 3295 Poplar. 207-1960. L, D, $-$$

RED KOI—Classic Japanese cuisine offered at this family-run restaurant; hibachi steaks, sushi, seafood, chicken, and vegetables. 5847 Poplar. 767-3456. L, D, X $-$$

RED PIER CAJUN SEAFOOD & BAR—Owners of Red Hook bring more Cajun-style seafood dishes. 5901 Poplar Ave. 512-5923. L, D, $-$$$

RESTAURANT IRIS—French Creole-inspired classics, such as Gulf shrimp and rice grits congee served with lap chong sausage and boiled peanuts, are served at this newly remodeled restaurant owned by Chef Kelly English, a Food and Wine “Top Ten.” 4550 Poplar. 590-2828. L, D, $$-$$$

RIVER OAKS—Chef Jose Gutierrez’s French-style bistro serves seafood and steaks, with an emphasis on fresh local ingredients.

Culinary Institute. Closed Mon. 1245 N. Germantown Pkwy., Suite 101. 249-7512. D, SB, $$-$$$

BOMBAY HOUSE—Indian fare includes lamb korma and chicken tikka; also, a daily luncheon buffet. 1727 N. Germantown Pkwy. 755-4114. L, D, $-$$

THE BUTCHER SHOP—Serves steaks ranging from 8-oz. filets to a 20-oz. porterhouse; also chicken, pork chops, fresh seafood. 107 S. Germantown Rd. 757-4244. L (Fri. and Sun.), D, $$-$$$ GREEN BAMBOO—Pineapple tilapia, pork vermicelli, and the soft egg noodle combo are Vietnamese specialties here. 990 N. Germantown Parkway, Suite 104. 753-5488. L, D, $-$$

Weekdays

4 a.m. — 9 a.m.

JIM ’N NICK’S BAR-B-Q—Serves barbecued pork, ribs, chicken, brisket, and fish, along with other homemade Southern specialties. 2359 N. Germantown Pkwy. 388-0998. L, D, $-$$

EL MERO TACO—This food truck turned restaurant serves up Mexican and Southern-style fusion dishes, including fried chicken tacos, chorizo con papas tacos, and brisket quesadillas. 8100 Macon Station, Suite 102. 308-1661. Closed Sun.-Mon. L, D, WB, $ OPTIONS Burgers, wings, philly cheesesteaks, and more comfort food options. Closed Mon.-Thu. 7940 Fischer Steel Rd. 245-6048. D, SB, $-$$

POKÉ WORLD—Serves up Hawaiian poké bowls filled with rice and diced, raw fish. Also offers Taiwanese bubble tea and rolled ice cream for dessert. 1605 N. Germantown Pkwy., Suite 111. 623-7986. East Memphis: 575 Erin Dr. 779-4971. L, D, $

PETALS OF A PEONY—Authentic Sichuan cuisine, from crispy duck to peony fried chicken. Be prepared for spice! 1250 N. Germantown Pkwy. 787-8886. L, D, $-$$

SHOGUN JAPANESE RESTAURANT—Entrees include tempura, teriyaki, and sushi, as well as grilled fish and chicken entrees. 2324 N. Germantown Pkwy. 384-4122. L, D, $-$$

TANNOOR GRILL—Brazilian-style steakhouse with skewers served tableside, along with Middle Eastern specialties; vegetarian options also available. 830 N. Germantown Pkwy. 443-5222. L, D, $-$$$

VILLA CASTRIOTI—From traditional pasta dishes and family concoctions to hand-tossed brick oven NY pizza. 714 N. Germantown Pkwy #15 in Cordova and 9861 Lake District Dr. W., Suite 101 in Lakeland. L, D, $$$

GERMANTOWN

BLUE HONEY BISTRO—Entrees at this upscale eatery include brown butter scallops served with Mississippi blue rice and herbcrusted beef tenderloin with vegetables and truffle butter. Closed Sun. 9155 Poplar, Suite 17. 552-3041. D, $-$$$

THE CRAZY COOP—Plenty of hot wings and sauces, plus sandwiches and other dinner plates. 1315 Ridgeway Rd. 748-5325; 7199 Stage Rd. (Bartlett). 433-9212. L, D, $-$$

DIMSUM MEM—Traditional Chinese food truck takes over the New Asia space. 2075 Exeter Rd., Suite 90. L, D, $-$$

GERMANTOWN COMMISSARY—Serves barbecue sandwiches, sliders, ribs, shrimp, and nachos, as well as smoked barbecued bologna sandwiches; Mon.-night all-you-can-eat ribs. 2290 S. Germantown Rd. S. 754-5540. L, D, MRA, $-$$

LAS TORTUGAS DELI MEXICANA—Authentic Mexican food prepared from local food sources; specializes in tortugas — grilled bread scooped out to hold such powerfully popular fillings as brisket, pork, and shrimp; also tingas, tostados. Closed Sun. 1215 S. Germantown Rd. 751-1200; 6300 Poplar. 623-3882. L, D, $-$$

LIMELIGHT—Wolf River Hospitality Group brings Wagyu beef, duck gnocchi, and other fine dining dishes on a rotating seasonal menu. Closed Mon./Tue. 7724 Poplar Pike. 791-2328. D, $-$$$

LOCAL LIME—Tacos and margaritas in a casual environment, plus other goodies like the Mexican caramel apple crisp skillet. Closed Mon. 7605 W. Farmington Blvd., Suite 1. 224-2204. L, D, $-$$$

MELLOW MUSHROOM—Large menu includes assortment of pizzas, salads, calzones, hoagies, vegetarian options, and 50 beers on tap. 9155 Poplar, Shops of Forest Hill (Germantown). 907-0243. L, D, $-$$

MOONDANCE GRILL—From the owners of Itta Bena and Lafayette’s. Serves steak cooked sous vide and seafood dishes including Abita-barbecued shrimp and pan-seared sand dab, in addition to an extensive wine and cocktail list. 1730 S. Germantown Road, Suite 117. 755-1471. L, D, $$-$$$

NOODLES ASIAN BISTRO—Serves a variety of traditional Asian cuisine, with emphasis on noodle dishes, such as Singapore Street Noodles and Hong Kong Chow Fun. 7850 Poplar, Suite 12. 755-1117. L, D, $ PETRA CAFÉ—Serves Greek, Italian, and Middle Eastern sandwiches, gyros, and entrees. Hours vary; call. 6641 Poplar. 754-4440; 547 S. Highland. 323-3050. L, D, $-$$

ROCK’N DOUGH PIZZA CO.—Specialty and custom pizzas made from fresh ingredients; wide variety of toppings. 7850 Poplar, Suite 6. 779-2008. L, D, SB, MRA, $$

ROYAL PANDA—Hunan fish, Peking duck, Royal Panda chicken and shrimp, and a seafood combo are among the specialties. 3120 Village Shops Dr. 756-9697. L, D, $-$$

SAKURA—Sushi, tempura, and teriyaki are Japanese specialties here. 2060 West St. 758-8181; 4840 Poplar. 572-1002; 255 New Byhalia Rd. 316-5638. L, D, $-$$

SOUTHERN SOCIAL—Shrimp and grits, stuffed quail, and Aunt Thelma’s Fried Chicken are among the dishes served at this upscale Southern establishment. 2285 S. Germantown Rd. 754-5555. D, SB, MRA, $-$$$

STONEY RIVER STEAKHOUSE AND GRILL—Specializes in hand-cut steaks, a fresh seafood selection, and plenty of house specials. 7515 Poplar Ave., Suite 101. 207-1100. L, D, $$-$$$$

SUFI’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILL & BAR—Offers authentic Mediterranean and Persian cuisine, from hummus shawarma to traditional moussaka. Closed Mon. 7609 Poplar Pike. 779-2200. L, D, $-$$$

TAZIKI’S—Mediterranean-inspired dishes all made from scratch. 7850 Poplar Ave., Suite 26. 612-2713. East Memphis: 540 S. Mendenhall Rd. 290-1091. Bartlett: 7974 US-64. 203-0083. L, D, $

THE TOASTED YOLK CAFE—Churro donuts, signature Eggs Benedict, and plenty other boozy brunch options at this franchise’s first Tennessee location. 9087 Poplar Ave., Ste. 11. B, L, $-$$

UNCLE GOYO’S—More than 30 dishes with a focus on authentic Mexican cuisine, from the brains behind TacoNganas. 1730 S. Germantown Rd. L, D, $-$$

WEST STREET DINER—This home-style eatery offers breakfast, burgers, po’boys, and more. 2076 West St. 757-2191. B, L, D (Mon.-Fri.), $

ZEN JAPANESE FINE CUISINE—A full sushi bar and plenty of authentic Japanese dishes, like Hibachi or Wagyu beef. 1730 S. Germantown Rd. 779-2796. L, D, X, $-$$$

CHICAGO STEAKHOUSE AT THE GOLDSTRIKE—1010 Casino Center Dr., Robinsonville, MS, 1-888-24KSTAY / 662-357-1225

FAIRBANKS AT THE HOLLYWOOD—1150 Casino Strip Blvd., Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-871-0711

IGNITE STEAKHOUSE AT SOUTHLAND CASINO HOTEL—1550 N. Ingram Blvd., West Memphis, AR, 1-800-467-6182

JACK BINION’S STEAK HOUSE AT HORSESHOE—1021 Casino Center Drive, Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-303-SHOE

LUCKY 8 ASIAN BISTRO AT HORSESHOE—1021 Casino Center Drive, Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-303-SHOE

SOUTHLAND CASINO HOTEL'S THE KITCHENS—1550 N. Ingram Blvd., West Memphis, AR, 1-800-467-6182

THE STEAKHOUSE AT THE FITZ—711 Lucky Ln., Robinsonville, MS, 1-888-766-LUCK, Ext. 8213

TWAIN’S STEAKHOUSE AT SAM’S TOWN TUNICA—1477 Casino Strip Resorts Boulevard, Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-456-0711

COLLIERVILLE

CAFE PIAZZA BY PAT LUCCHESI—Specializes in gourmet pizzas (including create-your-own), panini sandwiches, and pasta. Closed Sun. 139 S. Rowlett St. 861-1999. L, D, $-$$

CIAO BABY—Specializing in Neapolitan-style pizza made in a woodfired oven. Also serves house-made mozzarella, pasta, appetizers, and salads. 890 W. Poplar, Suite 1. 457-7457. L, D, $

COLLIERVILLE COMMISSARY—Serves barbecue sandwiches, sliders, ribs, shrimp, and nachos, as well as smoked barbecued bologna sandwiches. 3573 S. Houston Levee Rd. 979-5540. L, D, MRA, $-$$ DAVID GRISANTI’S ON MAIN—Serving Northern Italian cuisine and traditional Grisanti family recipes. Closed Sun./Mon. 148 N. Main. 861-1777. L, D, $-$$$

DYER’S CAFE—Juicy hamburgers, split dogs, and milkshakes at the historic Collierville restaurant. 101 N. Center St. 850-7750. L, D, $-$$

EL MEZCAL—Serves burritos, chimichangas, fajitas, and other Mexican cuisine, as well as shrimp dinners and steak. 9947 Wolf River, 853-7922; 402 Perkins Extd. 761-7710; 694 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 755-1447; 1492 Union. 274-4264; 11615 Airline Rd. (Arlington). 8671883; 9045 Highway 64 (Lakeland). 383-4219; 7164 Hacks Cross Rd. (Olive Branch). 662-890-3337; 8834 Hwy. 51 N. (Millington). 872-3220; 7424 Highway 64 (Bartlett). 417-6026. L, D, $

EMERALD THAI RESTAURANT—Spicy shrimp, pad khing, lemongrass chicken, and several noodle, rice, and vegetarian dishes are offered at this family restaurant. Closed Sunday. 8950 Highway 64 (Lakeland, TN). 384-0540. L, D, $-$$

FIREBIRDS—Specialties are hand-cut steaks, slow-roasted prime rib, and wood-grilled salmon and other seafood, as well as seasonal entrees. 4600 Merchants Circle, Carriage Crossing. 850-1637; 8470 Highway 64 (Bartlett). 379-1300. L, D, $-$$$ JIM’S PLACE GRILLE—Features American, Greek, and Continental cuisine. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 3660 Houston Levee. 861-5000. L, D, MRA, $-$$$

MAROON BREW CO.—Family-friendly restaurant serving up gourmet hot dogs, smash burgers, chicken, and shareables, all made to pair with beers brewed on-site. Closed Mon. 642 W. Poplar Ave., Collierville. 799-0354. L, D, $-$$

MULAN ASIAN BISTRO—Hunan Chicken, tofu dishes, and orange beef served here; sushi and Thai food, too. 2059 Houston Levee. 8505288; 2149 Young. 347-3965; 4698 Spottswood. 609-8680. L, D, $-$$

NASHOBA—Offers live music, sports games, and pub classics. Specialties are hot honey flatbread pizza, brisket fried rice, and the Nashoba burger. 4600 Merchants Park Circle, Suite 111, Collierville. 630-4683. L, D, wheelchair accessible, $-$$

OSAKA JAPANESE CUISINE—Featuring an extensive sushi menu as well as traditional Japanese and hibachi dining. Hours vary for lunch; call. 3670 Houston Levee. 861-4309; 3402 Poplar. 249-4690; 7164 Hacks Cross (Olive Branch). 662-890-9312; 2200 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 425-4901. L, D, $-$$$

RAVEN & LILY—Eatery offers innovative Southern-inspired cuisine with such dishes as crispy shrimp and cauliflower salad, spiced lamb sausage and parmesan risotto, and bananas foster pain perdu. Closed Mon. 120 E. Mulberry. 286-4575. L, D, SB, $-$$

STIX—Hibachi steakhouse with Asian cuisine features steak, chicken, and a fillet and lobster combination, also sushi. A specialty is Dynamite Chicken with fried rice. 4680 Merchants Park Circle, Avenue Carriage Crossing. 854-3399. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 115 (Downtown). 207-7638 L, D, $-$$

WOLF RIVER BRISKET CO.—From the owners of Pyro’s Fire Fresh Pizza, highlights include house-smoked meats: prime beef brisket, chicken, and salmon. Closed Sun. 9947 Wolf River Boulevard, Suite 101. 316-5590; 1350 Concourse Ave., Suite 165. 791-4389 L, D, $-$$

ZOPITA’S ON THE SQUARE—Cafe offers sandwiches, including smoked salmon and pork tenderloin, as well as salads and desserts. Closed Sun. 114 N. Main. 457-7526. L, D, $

OUT-OF-TOWN

BOZO’S HOT PIT BAR-B-Q—Barbecue, burgers, sandwiches, and subs. 342 Highway 70 (Mason, TN). 901-294-3400. L, D, $-$$

CITY GROCERY—Southern eclectic cuisine; shrimp and grits is a specialty. Closed for dinner Sun. 152 Courthouse Square (Oxford, MS). 662-232-8080. L, D, SB, $$-$$$

COMO STEAKHOUSE—Steaks cooked on a hickory charcoal grill are a specialty here. Upstairs is an oyster bar. Closed Sun. 203 Main St. (Como, MS). 662-526-9529. D, $-$$$

ELFO GRISANTI’S NORTHERN ITALIAN CUISINE—Grisanti family classics like lasagna, homemade ravioli, garlic bread, and Northern Italian pizza. Closed Sun. 5627 Getwell Rd. (Southaven, MS). 662-4704497. L, D, $-$$

MANILA FILIPINO RESTAURANT—Entrees include pork belly cutlet with lechon sauce, and shrimp and vegetables in tamarind broth; also daily combos, rice dishes, and chef specials. Closed Sun.-Mon. 7849 Rockford (Millington, TN). 209-8525. L, D, $

MARSHALL STEAKHOUSE—Rustic steakhouse serves premium Angus beef steaks, seafood dishes, rack of lamb, and more. 2379 Highway 178 (Holly Springs, MS). 628-3556. B, L, D, $-$$$ MEMPHIS BARBECUE COMPANY—Offers spare ribs, baby backs, and pulled pork and brisket. 709 Desoto Cove (Horn Lake, MS). 662-536-3762. L, D, $-$$

PIG-N-WHISTLE—Offers pork shoulder sandwiches, wet and dry ribs, catfish, nachos, and stuffed barbecue potatoes. 6084 Kerr-Rosemark Rd. (Millington, TN). 872-2455. L, D, $

SAINT LEO—Offering sophisticated pizzas, pastas, sandwiches, and salads. A James Beard nominee for Best New Restaurant in 2017. 1101 Jackson (Oxford, MS). 662-234-4555. D, L, WB, $-$$

SIMON’S—A unique dining experience situated in a charming small town. Closed Sun./Mon. 201 N. Main St. (Bolivar, TN). 731403-3474. L, D, $$-$$$$

SNACKBAR—An intriguing mix of “French Bistro with North Mississippi Cafe.” Serving a confit duck Croque Monsieur, watermelon-cucumber chaat, pan-fried quail, plus a daily plate special and a raw bar. 721 N. Lamar (Oxford, MS). 662-236-6363. D, $-$$$

TEKILA MODERN MEXICAN—Modern interpretations of classic dishes from all over Mexico. 6343 Getwell Rd. (Southaven, MS). 662-510-5734. B, L, D, $-$$

WILSON CAFE—An impressive culinary destination in the heart of the Arkansas Delta. Serving jambalaya, Waygu flatiron, butternut ravioli, swordfish & shrimp kabobs, burgers. 2 N. Jefferson (Wilson, AR). 870655-0222. L, D, WB, $-$$$

CASINO TABLES

#1 Record

Rankings and ratings and reviews.

BY JON W. SPARKS

Irecently conducted a survey that shows Memphis is ranked No. 1.

And I want to assure you that my intentions are pure, my methodology proven, and my results guaranteed.

I call it Ranking Madness, and it’s clearly (according to surveys) a function of a society that is compelled to measure and rate and sort, which is probably a defense against the evil forces of imponderables, abstractions, uncertainty, and life.

All within a margin of error, naturally.

Why do we so love rankings? Maybe it’s because numbers are tangible, making even the ﬂ ightiest opinion appear more grounded. It’s so easy to gin up a top-ten list. Confess — you’ve done it, right? And we seem to love discussing them,

except, maybe, those compiled by your ex.

I feel that I can speak with some authority since I’m on the receiving end of many press releases that purport to rank the popularity (or lack thereof) of anything that can be measured. Let me share a sampling: Favorite candies (by state), top

Tennessee towns for retirement (or small businesses or ﬁshing or spring break), best opportunities for annihilation by earthquake (or tornado or hurricane or plague of locusts), best insurance companies (for 2025), best barbecue in the universe (more on this hot- sauce item in a moment).

Why do we so love rankings? Maybe it’s because numbers are tangible, making even the flightiest opinion appear more grounded. It’s so easy to gin up a top-ten list.

e latest one in my inbox purports to tell which are the most heavily monitored cities in the country (Atlanta rocks the spycams!) and another says that three Tennessee cities are party hotspots for business executives. Since you won’t let it rest until you know, I’ll tell you that the fun times are in Nashville (No. 18), Knoxville (No. 25), and, ﬁnally, Memphis (No. 35). is doesn’t bother anyone really since Memphis’ oﬃcial position is to ignore the other Tennessee cities, and the feeling is mutual.

But it’s worth noting that certain specific attractions were mentioned for each city in that roundup, which might lead one to suspect that there’s some influence afoot. And that gets to the real reasons a reporter’s inbox is jammed with pleas to spread the word on rankings: They want your eyeballs. Yes, yours.

Clickbait serves to hit nerves. It boosts traffic and helps sell a narrative. Branding is helped by rankings (U.S. News started ranking colleges in 1983 and, despite criticism, remains tops in that category). It comes down to profit and competition and anyone with the right budget can hire a research organization (PR firm) to cobble together (with AI) a survey to lead you to think more about urban green space

or pro sports or child safety. e problem is that real, unmeasured, uncategorized life is full of complexities that are freely ignored by list-makers with an agenda. So, when an intern is assigned to come up with some listicles for best barbecue in all creation, the result isn’t going to be about the “best,” but rather about the sound and fury signifying proﬁtability and interest.

After all, everyone knows Texas brisket, Kansas City’s burnt ends, and whatever they do in any of the Carolinas are far inferior to Memphis barbecue. And don’t get me started on which ’cue shops have the best. Unless you want a long, contentious, smoky discussion (sound and fury).

Probably the favorite ranking topic is crime, which will lead to conclusions (horrors!). Crime data is measured differently by jurisdiction and the gathering of the info is a mess. Many such lists and surveys rely on the FBI, which finds out what it knows through submissions from law enforcement agencies that are voluntary and often incomplete. Oh, and they often have very different definitions of crimes — an altercation may be aggravated assault in one place and a simple and unreported assault in another.

e American Society of Criminology has slammed such rankings because they “fail to account for the many conditions aﬀecting crime rates” and mislead more than they inform.

ere’s more noise than signal out there, it seems. Except when it comes to Memphis, which, as we all know, and we all agree, is No. 1. For what? You decide.

Jon W. Sparks

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