Memphis Magazine February 2019 by Contemporary Media

Memphis • THE CITY MAGAZINE • W W W.MEMPHISMAGAZINE.COM

READERS RESTAURANT POLL WINNERS ROAD TRIP: CALICO ROCK | MISTER MALMO

THE CITY MAGAZINE

VOL XLIII NO 11 | F E B R U A R Y 2 019

USA $4.99

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DISPLAY UNTIL MARCH 10, 2019

Shared plates at The Gray Canary

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SMALL MEETINGS. BIG IMPACT. Here’s what our Clients are saying about The Westin Memphis Beale Street: We’ve had this meeting at the Westin Memphis Beale Street 3 years in a row. Each year has been great, but this year was even better!!! Kudos to the staff!!! - Steve F. What’s not to Love? Location to FedEx Forum - Team was comfortable - Food was great - Service was terrific.- Jay D We always receive the best customer service from the Westin! - Mark G. I had high expectations, but I was still really impressed. AV was set up early and ran well, the food was delicious and the service was great, not disruptive to the speaker or presentation in the least. Hospitality is what Westin does best, and we really felt taken care of from the moment we walked in, to the minute we left. Staff was friendly and helpful, parking and valet was convenient, the entire event seemed very turn-key, leaving our team not having much to do beyond enjoy the event. Shaina G. Everyone was professional and handled everything beautifully. Great work! - Jessica G.

Contact our Professional Sales and Events Team to help plan your next event! 901-334-5920 • westin.com/bealestreet

The Westin Memphis Beale Street 170 Lt. George W. Lee Avenue, Memphis, TN 38103

Certified Personal Trainer helps patients get back in action after therapy

oming back from an injury or illness can be difficult and scary – along with the physical work, patients must address challenges like the fear of getting hurt again. An innovative program at Regional One Health’s East Campus gives patients the tools to do both. By blending the expertise of physical therapists and a certified personal trainer, the Post-Rehab Wellness Program helps people return to the activities they love in a safe, healthy manner. Certified Personal Trainer Kenneth Robinson joined the Center for Rehabilitative Medicine team as program coordinator, working closely with Regional One Health Outpatient Rehabilitation Manager Ambrosia Scott, DPT, LAT, CCI. After patients complete physical therapy with Scott’s team, they can work with Robinson to transition to regular activity. “It’s a great partnership and a great vision,” Robinson said. “Therapists provide an assessment of a patient’s health, medications, restrictions, etc.; and a trainer molds a program for their level to help them advance. I haven’t seen a program like this anywhere else – Regional One Health is leaps and bounds ahead of other programs.” After a patient completes therapy, Robinson meets with them to learn their concerns and goals, then designs exercises aimed at building strength, range of motion, stamina, etc. “It can reach the youngest to the oldest; the most active to the most sedentary,” he said. He shows patients how to perform exercises safely and use exercise equipment properly, and is always available as a resource. “We want patients to continue on a positive path after therapy, and they don’t always know how to do that,” said Scott. “Kenneth serves as a guide and makes sure they don’t hurt themselves. They can ask, ‘Am I doing this right?’ ‘What should I do next?’ We see you through to the end.” Post-Rehab Wellness patients can keep using the Center for Rehabilitative Medicine’s gym for an added level of comfort. “It’s a safe haven where you can come in and we know what’s going on with your body and what you as an individual need,” Scott said. Staying at the East Campus also means patients always have access to their therapist

Kenneth Robinson, a certified personal trainer who has worked with young athletes and adults recovering from injury and illness, has joined the East Campus team.

if needed, and they’re cheered on by a team with a positive approach. Robinson is a perfect fit, Scott said. Robinson, a former college football player and retired police officer, has spent his career helping people overcome obstacles. He has worked with athletes who want to compete at the next level, motivating them if they experience rejection, injury or other hurdles; and has helped adults and seniors coming off injuries like shoulder tears or hip and knee replacements. “I learned years ago how tough it is when you’re mentally defeated, and I learned to always move in one gear, and that’s forward,” he said. “I’m drawn to people who I can see are struggling. I naturally have that hunger to say, ‘Let me pull the best out of you.’” Patients at the Center for Rehabilitative Medicine say it’s working, reporting strong overall strength and fitness, reduced pain from muscle tightness or weakness, and

fewer imbalances and gait issues. That can lead to a faster transition from therapy to regular activity, and keep patients from having another injury and needing to return to therapy in the future. “We don’t just focus on the injured area, we focus on the whole person,” Robinson said. To set up an appointment at the Center for Rehabilitative Medicine, conveniently located off the Kirby Parkway exit of 385 at 6555 Quince Road, call 901-515-5900.

NO REFERRAL NEEDED.

Schedule an appointment with Kenneth Robinson or learn more about our services online at

RegionalOneHealth.org or call 901.515.5900

Publication: Memphis Magazine

Client: Regional One Health Job No: 190124A

EAST CAMPUS Internal Medicine and Multispecialty Clinic • Cardiology • Endocrinology • Infectious Disease

• Internal Medicine • Neurology • Nephrology

• Pain Medicine • Rheumatology • Wound Care

Gynecology and Menopause Care Physical Therapy and Rehabilitation Fertility and IVF Urology and Urogynecology On-site Pharmacy and Imaging Center Online scheduling and same-day appointments

REGIONAL ONE HEALTH EAST CAMPUS

Schedule online at

RegionalOneHealth.org/East Or call 901.515.EAST

Regional One Health East Campus 6555 Quince Road | Memphis, TN 38119

Located at the Kirby Exit of 385

Publication: Memphis Magazine

Client: Regional One Health Job No: 190124A

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TOP 10

NE W R E S TA UR A N T S

V O L X L III N O 11 | F E B R U A R Y 2 019

Presenting the winners of our Memphis magazine Readers Restaurant Poll COVER PHOTOGR APH BY JUS TIN FOX BURK S

Features

Up Front

12 IN THE BEGINNING 14 WE SAW YOU 16, 30 STREET STYLE 18 CLASSIC DINING 20 OUT AND ABOUT 23 CITY BEAT 24 FICTION

Greetings from Calico Rock History lessons and outdoor excursions await at this Arkansas destination. ~ by joshua savage

33 Top 10 New Restaurants

And the result of our annual Readers’ Restaurant Poll.

44 Mr. Malmo’s Monkeys

On marketing, Memphis, and the lost art of jingles.

~ by anna traverse

51 901 H E A LT H

Being Their Champion

TRAVEL

A primary-care physician can serve as the first defense in battling all forms of addiction. ~ by michael finger ASK VANCE

Dearie Our trivia expert solves local mysteries of who, what, when, where, why, and why not. ~ by vance lauderdale GA R DE N VA R I E T Y

Setting the Stage February is the best time to prepare for a mid- to late-summer hydrangea performance. ~ by john a. jennings CIT Y DINING

Tidbits: Mahogany Memphis; plus the city’s most extensive dining listings.

L A S T S TA N D

Express Yourself Pro football returns to Memphis, just in time for Valentine’s Day.

~ by frank murtaugh

Memphis (ISSN 1622-820x) is published monthly for $15 per year by Contemporary Media, Inc., P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101 © 2019. Telephone: 901-521-9000. For subscription info, please call 901-521-9000. Subscription customer service mailing address is Memphis magazine, P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101. All rights reserved. • Periodicals Postage Paid at Memphis, TN. Postmasters: send address changes to Memphis, P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101.

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BONUS

Memphis Magazine’s

THE 2018

FACE

In This Issue

ORIENTAL RUGS

SCENE DINING 2019

special advertising section

SCENE DINING Looking for the right spot for that first date? What about something new for your next anniversary? Or do you simply find yourself with a hankering for a nice, thick burger and fries? Whatever your craving may be, you’re sure to find a delectable destination on the following pages.

Aldo’s Pizza Pies Downtown

Aldo’s Pizza Pies Midtown

We’re ranked Memphis’ Best Pizza for a reason. Maybe it’s our piping-hot pies, signature sandwiches, and New York cheesecake – or it could be the 30 rotating draft beers (60 total) and handcrafted cocktails that set us apart from the rest. We’re right off the Main Street Trolley line in the heart of Downtown Memphis, with a hip atmosphere and spacious patio. Great for big parties and meeting up with friends before the big show or game! Kid-friendly, daily slices, and Downtown delivery. Eat more pie!

Cooper-Young’s largest rooftop patio offers expansive views of the heart of Midtown, paired with the same exceptional service and hip vibes experienced at the Downtown location. Enjoy made-from-scratch pies, fresh salads, signature sandwiches, and more. Our full bar (including house-made limoncello) and extensive wine selection ensures nobody goes thirsty! Kidfriendly, daily slices, and Midtown delivery.

100 S. Main Street • 901.5.777.PIE • aldospizzapies.com • @aldospizzapies

Another Broken Egg Café at Highland

752 S. Cooper Ave. • 901.725.PIES • aldospizzapies.com • @aldospizzapies

Another Broken Egg Café at Park

65 South Highland Street • 901.623.7122 • anotherbrokenegg.com

6063 Park Avenue • 901.729.7020 • anotherbrokenegg.com

Foodies of the world unite! Another Broken Egg Café at Poplar and Highland has the chef-inspired breakfast, brunch and lunch dishes you crave. From traditional Southern favorites like Shrimp ‘N Grits to sweet temptations like Bananas Foster Pancakes, Another Broken Egg has a menu that’ll wake up your taste buds. Add a signature cocktail like our famous Infused Bloody Mary and consider your day made — even if your bed isn’t. Make sure to sign on to the wait using the Yelp App!

Foodies of the world unite! Another Broken Egg Café at Park and Ridgeway has the chef-inspired breakfast, brunch and lunch dishes you crave. From traditional Southern favorites like Shrimp ‘N Grits to sweet temptations like Bananas Foster Pancakes, Another Broken Egg has a menu that’ll wake up your taste buds. Add a signature cocktail like our Famous Infused Bloody Mary and consider your day made — even if your bed isn’t. Make sure to sign on to the wait using the Yelp App!

SCENE DINING pages 63-69 Profiles of the Memphis area’s leading restaurants, with their specialties, hours, locations, and more.

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Coming in April 2019 Memphis • THE CITY MAGAZINE • W W W.MEMPHISMAGAZINE.COM

Our business is our family name.

THE CITY MAGAZINE

MEMPHIS BICEN T ENNI A L

VOL XLIII NO 1 | A P R I L 2 019

The clock is ticking M EM PH IS at down toward Memphis’ 200th anniversary, celebrating two centuries of growth and culture. Whether you call it Bluff City, Grind City, or the City of Soul, stay tuned for Memphis magazine’s exclusive coverage of a celebration of Memphis 200.

200 1 8 1 9 - 2 0 1 9

COMMEMOR ATIVE ISSUE

STANDARD OF EXCELLENCE SINCE 1950

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repairs reweaving handwash/cleaning appraisals sales color run restoration pet and other stain removals padding moth damage odor removal storage and much more 3554 Park Ave., Memphis, TN • 901.327.5033 • taghavirugs.com • Like us on Facebook

Memphis Magazine’s

THE 2018

FACE OF

GIRLS EDUCATION

STRONG

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Coming in May 2019 GO RED F OR WOMEN

PREPARED TO ACHIEVE

Go RED For

Wome n

Our annual guide to the local American Heart Association’s Go Red For Women event.

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Coming in June 2019 T OP DOC T ORS

We understand how girls learn best. Explore new ideas, think critically, find your voice. That’s the strength of a Hutchison education. Call 901.762.6672 to schedule a tour. 1740 Ridgeway Road | Memphis, Tennessee 38119 | PK2–12 | HutchisonSchool.org

Our annual list of Top Doctors in the greater Memphis area as chosen by their peers via Castle Connolly Medical Ltd.

For more information on advertising or our upcoming special sections, please contact Margie Neal at margie@memphismagazine.com

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Memphis THE C IT Y MAGAZ INE

General Excellence Grand Award Winner City and Regional Magazine Association 2007, 2008, 2010, 2014

PUBLISHER/EDITOR kenneth neill EXECUTIVE EDITOR michael finger MANAGING EDITOR frank murtaugh SENIOR EDITORS shara clark, jon w. sparks ASSOCIATE EDITOR samuel x. cicci ARTS & LIFESTYLE EDITOR anne cunningham o’neill FOOD EDITOR pamela denney CONTRIBUTING EDITORS jackson baker,

michael donahue, john a. jennings, vance lauderdale, joshua savage, anna traverse EDITORIAL ASSISTANT julia baker EDITORIAL INTERNS avery budin, angie harri

CREATIVE DIRECTOR brian groppe PRODUCTION OPERATIONS DIRECTOR margie neal SENIOR ART DIRECTOR carrie beasley ADVERTISING ART DIRECTOR christopher myers GRAPHIC DESIGNERS jeremiah matthews,

bryan rollins PHOTOGRAPHY justin fox burks, michael donahue,

karen pulfer focht, ziggy mack ILLUSTRATION chris honeysuckle ellis

SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE sloane patteson taylor ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES kayla white, jacob woloshin

NEIGHBORHOOD DINING OPTIONS

for every occasion

SENIOR SALES CONSULTANT joy bateman

published by contemporary media, inc. memphis, tn 901-521-9000 p • 901-521-0129 f subscriptions: 901-521-9000

CONTROLLER ashley haeger DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT jeffrey a. goldberg EDITORIAL DIRECTOR bruce vanwyngarden DIRECTOR OF STRATEGIC INITIATIVES anna traverse DIGITAL SERVICES DIRECTOR kristin pawlowski CIRCULATION COORDINATOR julie ray SPECIAL EVENTS DIRECTOR molly willmott EMAIL MARKETING MANAGER britt ervin IT DIRECTOR joseph carey ACCOUNTING ASSISTANT celeste dixon RECEPTIONIST kalena mckinney

february 2019

CHAR: 431 S. HIGHLAND ST. #120 | MEMPHIS, TN 38111 | CHARRESTAURANT.COM AMERIGO: 1239 RIDGEWAY RD. | MEMPHIS, TN 38119 | AMERIGO.NET

member: City and Regional Magazine Association member: Circulation Verification Council 10 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 9

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IN THE BEGINNING | by anna traverse

Moon Phases and Memphis Milestones

KEITH ALLEN

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emphis, this sweet, feisty, hopeful, and sometimes heartbreaking city of ours, turns 200 in 2019. So young, by city standards; consider that Damascus and Jericho have been occupied continuously for 55 times as long, Aleppo 40 times as long. Of course, what we mean when we say that Memphis turns 200 in 2019 is that, in May 1819, Memphis was incorporated by three white men: John Overton, James Winchester, and Andrew Jackson. And when we say Memphis was discovered in 1541, by Hernando de Soto, we mean that de Soto was the first European man to cross the Mississippi River, and wander our bluffs. Marking time in American history, and celebrating milestones like the Memphis bicentennial, can thus be a queasy business. Of course, of course there were people living and thriving here long before 1819, long before 1541. The same bluff that the offices of this magazine perch atop was occupied for thousands of years, first by the people we now call the Mississippians, builders of mounds like the ones at Chucalissa, and then by the Chickasaw Tribe. This was not some undiscovered country, some new frontier. It was someone else’s home. In late January, watching the total lunar eclipse, I thought about the people whose home this was in the longer-ago. Before people with pale skin and reddish hair like mine arrived. The eclipse on the night of January 20th was called a “Super Blood Wolf Moon,” for its size and hue and season (wolves howled at the moon more in the winter, it’s said, likely on account of hunger). The moon goes into eclipse when it’s in the shadow of Earth, and turns red from the reflection of all our earthly fire and fury reflected through the atmosphere and onto the shadow. The night of the eclipse, my boyfriend and his son and our dogs stood outside, and stared. The sky was clear, liquid darkness punctured by stars. The full moon’s brightness gradually receded beneath a dark, round shadow, our shadow, like half a lens shutter closing. The camera strapped around my neck started acting cantankerous, confused by low light; the few photos I took were all jagged smears and darts of light against inky darkness. At some point, wanting no longer to be frustrated by technology, we set the thing aside, inside, deemed it enough simply to watch. To watch, unencumbered, unaccommodated. While more of the moon, then all, darkened, the shadowy sphere glowed blood-orange, first on the bottom scalloped edge, then more and more until the entire visible moon was

deep, and juicy, and gleaming, just the fewest whispery wisps of light escaping from the topmost sliver. And then it stayed that way: orange, umber, umbra. Magnificent. We wondered — independently at first, then together, aloud — what it might be like to experience phenomena like this if we’d not read about the spectacle on our phones earlier, seen a schedule of the evening’s events. What this might be like if we’d no basic understanding of what we should expect to see, if the night were clear enough, and what could produce such a show. A thousand, five thousand, even a few hundred years ago, a person seeing this surely would have been inclined to read vast meaning in it, strange portents of — something. So we stood on the porch, shivering and imagining, as far as possible, that the city lights blinked away, one by one. Imagining that there were no phones in our pockets, and no warm lamps glowing on the other side of the door, and we were here, simply here, wondering at the blood-orange shadow shining down on us. Nothing is so simple or so certain as we tell ourselves: You think you know what the moon does, how it wanes and waxes, until one day it inserts itself over the sun (as in the solar eclipse, eighteen months ago, whose totality repositioned me in 160 seconds’ still, silent darkness), or goes and turns itself wild orange one cold January night. All the alerts and all the explanations on all the phones can’t prepare a person for magnificence like this. Once it’s happening, the hows and whys matter so vanishingly little, so not nearly as much as this, this, This. This moment, and this moon, and this earthly observation deck with these dogs and this man and his son. Anna Traverse director of strategic initiatives

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WE SAW YOU

Top Dentists Reception roa dshow bm w | december 6, 2018

with michael donahue

emphis magazine honored the area’s top dentists with a reception held December 6th at Roadshow BMW. Just about every dentist had the opportunity to participate in the Top Dentists competition. Nominations were taken from dentists listed online with the American Dental Association and with their local dental societies. To help determine who the Top Dentists should be, the national organization topDentists asked local practitioners, “If you had a patient in need of a dentist, who would you refer them to?” Respondents were asked to consider years of experience, manner with patients, and other factors when making their recommendations. Dr. Jeff Kalmowicz, who won the honor numerous times over the years, was among the guests. “I had never been to Roadshow BMW,” he said. “It was a beautiful place.” As for his win, he says, “I think it’s very nice to be honored by Memphis magazine, and I think it’s nice for my peers to be honored. I just try to do the best I can do every day. It means a lot.” Of course, dentists who attended the party had the option to skip any sugary items on the buffet.

1 Karen Lombardo and Rola Obaji 2 Michelle and Randy Patton 3 Jan Klein, Dr. Jeff Kalmowicz, and Millie Katzen 4 Tripp and Dory Yates 5 Betty Lamarr and Dr. Elizabeth Lee 6 Tamika and Michael Boyd 7 Taylor Faught 8 Dr. G.W. Sorrells 9 Hamidi, Faith, and Donya Taghavi 10 Chip Elliott

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AutoZone Liberty Bowl President’s Gala the pea body | december 3 0, 2018

T 1

he Four Tops received the Outstanding Achievement Award at the AutoZone Liberty Bowl President’s Gala, which was held December 30th at The Peabody. The group also performed the following day at halftime at the Liberty Bowl game, which celebrated its 60th anniversary. The achievement award is given each year to someone who has “exhibited excellence in the field of entertainment as well as service to the community,” says AutoZone Liberty Bowl executive director Steve Ehrhart. The late entertainer Danny Thomas had a lot to do with their selection process, said Ehrhart, who moved to Memphis in 1985 to become president of the Memphis Showboats. He became friends with Thomas, founder of St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital. “Danny was a huge football guy. He attended a couple of Memphis Showboats games with me. That’s when he said there’s two ways to reach the general public: through sports and entertainment. Everybody can speak the same language, and it cuts across race and age and ethnicity.” Ehrhart took that to heart after he became Liberty Bowl executive director in the mid-’90s. More than 900 people attended this year’s President’s Gala. Bill Kinkade, who attended with his wife, Debbie, is this year’s AutoZone Liberty Bowl president.

1 Melissa and Jacob Harper 2 Lee and Jane Giovanetti 3 Tanya and Lawrence “Boo” Mitchell 4 Quadray Kohlhiem and Kymberli Reynolds 5 Olivia and Greg Ehrhart 6 Brandon and Maribeth Kizer 7 Jake Ittel, Zach Hollingsworth, and Lawrence Ryeﬁeld 8 Alena Allen and Shelby County Mayor Lee Harris 9 The Four Tops with Mayor Jim Strickland and Liberty Bowl president Bill Kinkade 5

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ST R E E T Style

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ST R E E T Style

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CLASSIC DINING

Cornish Hen at Cozy Corner by michael donahue

Memphis knows to keep doing the things it does best, and a big part of what this city does best is food. In this new series, “Classic Dining,” Michael Donahue explores dishes that are legendary on the local dining scene.

Sean Robinson, grandson of Cozy Corner founder Ray Robinson, with Cornish game hen — one of the restaurant’s signature items.

ornish game hen isn’t something you’d expect to see in a Memphis barbecue restaurant. “I don’t see it ever,” says Bobby Bradley.

Except at Cozy Corner, where Bradley is manager. Bradley is the grandson of Desiree Robinson and her husband, the late Ray Robinson, founder of Cozy Corner. As far as Bradley knows, Cornish game hen has been on the Cozy Corner menu “since day one.” His grandmother, Desiree, 81, says, “We opened our first restaurant in Colorado. I know it was on the menu there.” Why Cornish game hen?

“Because we liked it,” she says. “And our menu consisted of what we ate.” Desiree’s husband began barbecuing at home after they moved from Memphis to Denver, where he got a job. Their friends loved his barbecue, which included Cornish game hen. Ray eventually opened a restaurant called Ray’s Barbecue in Denver. Several years later, the Robinsons moved back to Memphis, where Ray opened Cozy Corner

in August 1977. Cornish game hen, a type of crossbred chicken served young, typically weighing less than two pounds, was on the menu, but Desiree says, “It didn’t sell real good at first. People weren’t used to it. They just couldn’t understand why you would want to sell a whole baby chicken.” The Cornish game hens eventually became popular at Cozy Corner, but they caught even more attention after being featured on Guy Fieri’s Food Network show, Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, in 2008, Bradley says. “Then

it went crazy.” They put their Cozy Corner rub, which includes salt, pepper, and paprika, on the hen before it’s put on the barbecue pit for two hours or more. If the customer asks for it, they then add the Cozy Corner barbecue sauce, which Bradley describes as “not vinegary, not super-sweet, but a decently balanced sauce.” They use the same rub and sauce they sell at the counter, but the flavor of the Cornish game hen isn’t going to be duplicated by somebody else at home, Bradley says. “It’s a combination of the way we cook them and what we cook them on.” But, Bradley says, “You can always give them a shot.” Bradley’s philosophy: “If only one person is selling them and it’s an item that you rarely ever see and you taste it and it’s really good, the combination of good taste and the wow, unique factor come together and it takes on a life of its own.” They sell 85 to 100 Cornish game hens a week, but it’s not the “top-selling item on the menu,” Bradley says. That would be the ribs, followed by the wings. “Cornish game hen gets all the buzz, but I don’t think it’s the best thing we do,” says Bradley. “But it’s OK. I love the buzz. Come get ’em.” Cozy Corner Restaurant is at 735 North Parkway; (901) 527-9158

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2.09

2.19

The American Idol winner stops through the Landers Center on her Meaning of Life tour, with support from Kelsea Ballerini and Brynn Cartelli. Multiple VIP packages are available. Landers Center, 4560 Venture Dr. landerscenter.com

Boston-born funk band Lettuce, known for combining funky grooves with hip-hop, blues, and psychedelic elements, takes the stage at Minglewood Hall on its Vibe Up tour. A $1.00 charity fee will be added to ticket prices to be donated to HeadCount, a national nonproﬁt organization dedicated to working with musicians to promote voter participation. Minglewood Hall, 1555 Madison Ave. minglewoodhall.com

Lettuce

Kelly Clarkson

2.03 Crafting A Legacy

Crafting a Legacy

PHOTOGRAPH BY MATTHEW MURPHY

2.09

2.12-2.17

Professional dancers, from the likes of Alan Bersten, Jenna Johnson, Brandon Armstrong, and many more, showcase every dance style as seen on the TV version of Dancing with the Stars, including hiphop, jazz, and ballroom. The Orpheum, 203 S. Main St. orpheum-memphis.com

On Your Feet! is a Broadway musical that tells the story of power couple and pop stars Emilio and Gloria Estefan ending up on their feet despite the obstacles they had to face. On Friday, February 15th, families are invited to join the Orpheum for Kids’ Night on Broadway, where kids can enjoy crafts, photo booths, meetand-greets, and more, an hour before showtime. The Orpheum, 203 S. Main St. orpheum-memphis.com

Dancing With the Stars: Live!

PHOTOGRAPH BY HOUSTON COFIELD

On Your Feet

On Your Feet!

Lettuce

40 Years of Collecting & Exhibiting at the Metal Museum

t the metal museum, preservation is one of the organization’s most important tenets. With a collection of metalworks spanning 40 years, the museum’s “Crafting A Legacy” exhibit presents some of the finest examples of jewelry, furniture, hollowware, sculpture, architectual ironwork, tools, and hardware from past and present Master Metalsmiths. Metal Museum, 374 Metal Museum Dr. metalmuseum.org

2.06

Panic! At the Disco

2.08

Wine for Wishes

Help make critically ill On the second leg of their children’s wishes come Pray for the Wicked tour, true at the ninth Grammy-nominated annual Wine for rock band Panic! At Wishes, hosted the Disco makes a by Make-A-Wish stop in Memphis Mid-South. This at FedExForum, fundraiser is a likely playing their wine-tasting newest hits “High Panic! event that features Hopes” and “Say At the Disco live music, a wine Amen (Saturday Night)”, pull, door prizes, and as well as old classics like hors d’oeuvres. “I Write Sins Not Tragedies.” Solo Cadre Building, acts Two Feet and Betty Who will 149 Monroe Ave. open for the band. FedExForum, midsouth.wish.org 191 Beale St., fedexforum.com

Underwater Bubble Show

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2.23

KISS: “End of the Road World Tour”

Legendary rock-and-roll band KISS ends its 45year career with a ﬁnal tour, aptly named “End of the Road World Tour.” At FedExForum, Memphians will have their ﬁnal chance to rock out to “Rock And Roll All Nite” and “I Was Made For Lovin’ You,” among many other hits. FedExForum, 191 Beale St. fedexforum.com

2.25

Grizzlies v. Lakers

LeBron James and the Los Angeles Lakers visit FedExForum for the second time this season. The four-time MVP scored 20 points in a lopsided Laker victory on December 8th. Both the Lakers and Griz hope for a return to the playoffs after missing out in 2018. FedExForum, 191 Beale St. fedexforum.com

Memphis Grizzlies

PHOTOGRAPH BY JOE MURPHY / NBAE_GETTY IMAGES

2.23

Memphis Symphony Orchestra Masterworks: Keith Lockhart conducts Barber, Roumain, and Dvorak

Keith Lockhart of the Boston Pops and Charles Dimmick of the Boston Modern Orchestra Project conduct three works with the Memphis Symphony Orchestra: “Dancers, Dreamers, and Presidents” (Roumain); “Symphony No. 8” (Dvorak); and “Violin Concerto” (Barber). Cannon Center for the Performing Arts, 255 N. Main St. thecannoncenter.com

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Underwater Bubble Show

Kids and families are sure to enjoy the spectacle that is the Underwater Bubble Show, inspired by Cirque du Soleil, which comes complete with smoke, bubbles, acrobats, contortionists, and more. Buckman Performing Arts Center, 60 Perkins Extd. buckmanartscenter.com

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PHOTOGRAPH BY WINSLOW TOWNSON

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CITY BEAT

My KISStory Reflections from a longtime member of the KISS Army as the “End of the Road” tour hits Memphis.

by frank murtaugh

edExForum’s lid will be in jeopardy on Saturday, February 23rd, when KISS takes the stage for the 15th show on their “End of the Road” world tour. This will be the 15th concert the masked rock heroes have played in the Bluff City since 1974 and, if Paul Stanley and Gene Simmons are serious this time, the last. (They played the Pyramid in 2000 on what they called a “Farewell Tour,” and again in 2004.) I’ll be there, a 40year member of the KISS Army, convinced certain songs played in bombastic style keep a man young in ways no fruit or pharmaceuticals can. It’s one thing for a Hall of Fame rock band to reach the end of the road. What of us fans? My makeup-streaked KISS road began in Knoxville in 1977. I was in third grade, visiting a friend’s house, tossing a Nerf football in his backyard. I was a rather typical 8-year-old: liked baseball cards, comic books, and playing with one ball or another until sundown. When my pal, Tim, said he had a record I needed to hear — and see — I tucked the football under my arm and followed him inside. My buddy put Destroyer on his parents’ record-player, an album released a year earlier and by then already a platinum-selling sensation. (My rock taste to this point leaned toward my dad’s favorites: Elvis Presley, Chuck Berry, a Beatles tune now and then.) As the opening guitar riff of “Detroit Rock City” played — following a creepy intro recording of a car crash — I got my first glimpse of KISS on the album cover. It floored me. Left to right on the cover were Stanley (the Starchild), Peter Criss (the Catman), Ace Frehley (the Spaceman), and Simmons (the Demon), four comic-book characters rising above an apocalyptic wasteland. I needed to read their adventures, find out where they f it bet ween Superman and Spider-Man on the superhero landscape. No, Frank Tim cor rected me; those aren’t “Starchild” comic characters. Murtaugh

That’s the band. The idea of the Starchild actually singing “Detroit Rock City” makes me feel 8 years old to this day. The fact that a single man (Stanley) has been taking stages as that rock god for 45 years is beyond my abilities to blend reality and fantasy. The same goes for the blood-spitting, fire-breathing Demon, a creature inhabited now by the 69-yearold Simmons. (I didn’t watch a solitary minute of Simmons’ once-popular reality show, Family Jewels. There are areas of our lives where reality is an intrusion.) It took some time before my skeptical parents allowed a KISS record in our house. (Started with Criss’

solo album. The drummer, for crying out loud.) And I didn’t see the band perform live until 1994, their makeup — not to mention Frehley and Criss — cast aside in a form of cultural conformity I’m convinced Stanley and Simmons regret today. But I was on the floor at the Pyramid on July 10, 1996, when the original foursome returned in full, costumed glory for their “Reunion” tour. When the curtain dropped and I caught my first look at Simmons atop his seven-inch dragon boots, the bassist appeared 20 feet tall. It’s a “live-capture” memory I’m glad no cell “In a very real phone can borrow. way, KISS is I’ve been asked about my enduring much more on devotion to all things the edge than KISS. And I’ve had a it’s ever been, hard time explaining, beyond the enduring because rockpower of that first imand-roll is dead. pression 42 years ago. Everybody looks I continued to enjoy their music through like a pizza the “dow n” years, songs like “Heaven’s on delivery boy.” Fire” and “Domino” delivering my preferred flavor of rock-and-roll crunch, no makeup required. Nirvana changed the game in the Nineties. U2 has endured with songwriting — and performances — to rival any in rock history. The Rolling Stones may be the only band worthy of a conversation about rivals to the Beatles’ supremacy. But for me, it’s KISS. On February 23rd, and for however many days I have remaining. I interviewed Simmons for a Memphis Flyer cover story in 2000, shortly before that “Farewell Tour” appearance. He relished the chances he still had to deliver an entertainment package unlike any other, before or since: “In a very real way, KISS is much more on the edge than it’s ever been, because rock-and-roll is dead. Everybody looks like a pizza delivery boy, and KISS stubbornly refuses to insult the audience by taking the stage looking worse than they do.” It turns out those superheroes on the Destroyer album cover are indeed merely human beings. Which makes the KISS phenomenon all the more breathtaking, at least for those of us who see ourselves in them. F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 9 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 23

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FEBRUARY’S VERY SHORT STORY CONTEST WINNER

The War m Side of Cold Steel by m ic h a el c o t ta m

he ritual of crossing into Arkansas marked the beginning of Seth’s weekly journey to his own slice of paradise. Traversing the Mississippi bridge was an event in and of itself. Although he held a certain adoration for his hometown and would not consider living elsewhere, city life brought its own problems. Driving his beat-up ’87 Pathfinder down those two lanes of I-55 seemed to lift a weight off his shoulders and free his mind of anything and everything he dealt with on a day-to-day basis. Seth had two loves in his life: First was his beautiful wife of seven years, Cheryl, and coming in a close second was the lifelong affair he held with duck hunting. However, if Seth were to be completely true with himself, duck hunting would be an easy first, yet he decided long ago that Cheryl should not know this. The kill was not what lured him to the blind, but rather the oneness he felt when the fast world around him disappeared and he reconnected with the circle of life. Ever since he began hunting with his father years ago, Seth yearned for this sensation and was incapable of finding it anywhere else in his busy and crowded life. Now as he closed the distance between stress and

freedom, Seth could begin to make out the narrow dirt road indicating the final leg of his voyage. Normally he would venture to the same nondescript town outside of Jonesboro he had frequented for the last twenty-three years, but this time was different. In a will left by his late Uncle Jason was this patch of land he had arrived at now, minutes before the break of dawn. Never before had his uncle mentioned the property, and Seth certainly had heard nothing of the duck blind he had been given specific directions to find. As he stepped out of his truck, he felt his worn leather boots sink into the thick Arkansas mud. Reaching for his chest waders in the rear of the truck would prove to be an obstacle. Several strenuous steps and a lost boot later, Seth finally donned the footwear along with a camouf lage Carhartt that had kept him warm for over a decade. Completing his routine, he snagged his decoys and ammo bag as well as the shotgun his father had surprised him with one Christmas morning in his early teens. By now his eyes had adjusted to the darkness, so he trudged down the levee hugging the treeline, per his uncle’s instructions. Seth trekked the hundred yards

ILLUSTRATION BY EWA MAZUR |

DREAMSTIME

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SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 2 2:00 PM Merle Temple Blood on the Ground

until he arrived at a weathered post, marking the turn he was to make into the f looded woods. With the nearly freezing water rising up to his knees, each step became easier as the ground loosened beneath him. Seth had waded only a short distance when he was shocked by the sound of ducks’ wings already f lapping in the water. The sun then broke across the horizon and he discovered a one-man steel blind, painted brown and surrounded by brush, planted on the edge of an opening in the engulfed woods. At the other side of this hidden gem was the real prize — mallard after mallard after mallard; an endless pool of drakes and hens. After entering the steel box and taking a seat on the solitary bench, the cold water rested along his waistline and the top of the blind just below his field of vision. Although the sun was rising behind him, Seth continued to sit in the cold until the point that he developed a small shiver. Still, all he could do was sit and watch in awe at the wonder in front of him. Mesmerized by the abundance of life before him, Seth did not even load his gun. How could he dare pierce the sky and interrupt this beauty as a whole? This is what he truly had been yearning for. So there he just sat. As the sun rose little by little, light began to shine into the blind. On the inside wall beneath some caked-on dirt, Seth noticed scratches that seemed not to belong in the rusted steel. Freezing his hands in the water while he washed away the Arkansas mud, he revealed a message left not too long ago: May this spot be an escape for you as it was for me — a chance to slow down and notice the life and beauty around us every day. Uncle Jason january 11th, 2016

MICHAEL COTTAM was born and raised in Memphis. He currently resides in Wasilla, Alaska.

SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 3 2:00 PM R. J. Lee Bridge to Death: Grand Slam Murders

SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 10 2:00 PM Snowden Wright American Pop

TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 12 6:30 PM Lit & Libations: Tim Johnston The Current

SHORT AND SWEET (or not-so-sweet), the Very Short

FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 15 5:00 PM Joy Fitzgerald

Story Contest welcomes

The Journey to Joy

entries of up to 750 words, maximum. Writers are

SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 17 2:00 PM

encouraged to incorporate the

Paint Her Dead

city into their work. Winning

Wanda Shelton

stories will be published in

SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 23 2:00 PM

Memphis and archived on

Mark Greaney

memphismagazine.com. Whereas the ﬁction contest was in the past a once-ayear event, the Very Short

Mission Critical

SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 24 1:00 PM Kay DiBianca The Watch on the Fencepost

Story Contest will publish a winning entry in each month’s issue. The Very Short Story Contest is presented

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Mon–Sat: 9AM–9PM Sun: 10AM–5PM 387 Perkins Ext. Memphis, TN 38117 (901) 922-5526 • novelmemphis.com F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 9 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 25

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ETINGS FROM E R G

History lessons and outdoor excursions await at this Arkansas destination.

by joshua savage

ucked away deep within the Ozark Mountains sits a little-known place called Calico Rock. Only a few hours away from the hustle of Memphis, visitors who flock to more familiar areas like Mountain View, Branson, and Hot Springs often overlook this small town in north-central Arkansas. Herein lies part of the allure. From its historical brick buildings along Main Street to its numerous outdoor activities and proximity to other attractions, Calico Rock is a place worth visiting, whatever your interests.

Calico Rock can be easily missed; in fact, my family accidentally happened upon the area. Like many travelers, we were staying in nearby Mountain View. While navigating the curvy stretches of Highway 5 through Ozark National Forest, we spotted a commanding limestone bluff hanging above the White River. An Instagram moment, it caught our eye, and we had to stop for pictures. Little did we know this would be our first of many trips to the area. Wide, alternating streaks of grays, blues, and blacks line this impressive bluff, giving Calico Rock a name that no other town in the entire United States can claim. The town also serves as a backdrop in John Grisham’s baseball-themed novel, Calico Joe, published in 2012, whose fictitious hero is a Chicago Cubs slugger who grew up, yes, in Calico Rock. Perhaps Grisham has a fascination with the area; it’s clear from reading the novel that he knows the place. For such a small town, Calico Rock is rich with history. The local visitors center is housed in one of the many historically designated buildings along Main Street, and also serves as a museum, the Chamber of Commerce headquarters, and a market for local artisans to sell handmade jewelry, art, and other crafts. The museum alone can keep you busy for several hours. In fact, I suggest starting there so you can get a good overview of the town and Izard County. You can

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PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY JOSHUA SAVAGE / ARKANSAS DEPARTMENT OF PARKS & TOURISM / DREAMSTIME

quickly become lost in history while reading about the original inhabitants of the area; the Osage, Cherokee, and Shawnee tribes who later moved or were driven out. The Trail of Tears, along which traveled some 50,000 Native Americans forced to leave their homes in the Deep South on their way to Oklahoma, passed only a few miles east of Calico Rock. With the coming of the Steamboat Age after 1820, Calico Rock’s location on the White River helped it become a boom town. Sharing a history intertwined with Memphis, many of the same steamboats that carried passengers and goods along the Mississippi River often made their way up the White River. When residents discovered freshwater mollusks capable of producing rare, valuable pearls in the White and Black Rivers, even more people flocked to the area. All the historical information consumed in the visitors center — about steamboats, railroads, timber, mining, and more — will work up an appetite. Luckily, the Printing Press Cafe sits nearby; the perfect spot to re-energize.

The cafe space housed the offices of The Calico Rock Progress newspaper from 1906 to 1965, and its history is embraced — with old photographs, news clippings, and antique typewriters on display. Here, you can relax and enjoy a hearty sandwich, like the Calico Club or All-American Panini, or a milkshake or malt made with the eatery’s old-fashioned soft-serve ice cream. Back outside, time feels frozen. We spot an old pay

The Trail of Tears passed a few miles east of Calico Rock, a place brimming with history of its own. Visitors can learn about Peppersauce Alley, and more, at the museum on Main Street.

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phone, but of course it no longer works. Still, pretending to use it and explaining to the kids how it functions is a treat. My daughter asks, “What? You have to put money into it every time you use it?” Each brick building along the street has a story. My personal favorite is the Tom Tomlinson Art & Science Center because the lower level contains a surprise. The main floor features paintings and sculptures by local artists, but downstairs, there’s an interactive museum where visitors can become crime lab detectives and solve a burglary case. Suspect Other idyllic towns dot the interviews are shown on old television screens, and, on our first trip, my highways in the Ozarks of daughters, Sofiah and Kaia, learned how to decipher fingerprints, interpret Arkansas, but none have signatures, and read DNA samples to reveal the culprit. Full disclosure: My the flavor and authenticity wife and I may have enjoyed it more than my daughters. of Calico Rock. East of Main Street and still walkable from the the Art & Science Center lies the next adventure, an old ghost town. Once known as Peppersauce Alley, the area was supposedly named after a type of local moonshine (can you imagine the taste?) and served as a haven for gamblers, vagabonds, prostitutes, bootleggers, and other transients. Since the town was a hub for steamboat and railroad workers, this was the place to cut loose. above and center: The author’s daughters, Soﬁah and Kaia, take a break in an oversized rocking chair after a long day exploring. His wife Niki stops to test an old pay phone outside of the Printing Press Cafe.

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY JOSHUA SAVAGE / DREAMSTIME

The shells of a barber shop, a tavern, a cotton gin, and other dilapidated buildings make up the 20 or so remaining structures in the forsaken alley. Among the rubble, an old jail sign warns of a $5 fine for talking to prisoners. Though most of the buildings are overgrown with tall grass and weeds, place markers dot the street and allow you to imagine the debauchery that took place once upon a time. After a fun-filled day, finish the evening at Between the Buns, a restaurant with the type of delicious, greasy burgers and fries we all love. If the burger joint isn’t quite your speed, most of the rooms at Cedar Rock Inn at the south end of Main Street have small kitchens, complete with an oven, stove, fridge, and other basic necessities, so you can cook your own supper. Private cabins can be rented near or on the river, but we found Cedar Rock Inn to be the best place to rest our weary heads. The owner, Donnie Lemley, is the friendliest guy you’ll ever meet. If time permits, stick around and strike up a conversation. He has a wealth of knowledge about the area and might even share his plans and dreams for the future of Calico Rock. If one meandering day around town was enough, go enjoy the outdoors. But first, walk next door to Babycakes for breakfast. The owners, a family from California, decided to escape the fast-pace life and opened the bakery in 2017. Their fresh pastries and coffee are a perfect morning treat. Afterward, it may be time to work off those pastries (and last night’s burger) with a trek to the best view of the White River that Calico Rock offers. Lover’s Leap is a short walk uphill from Cedar Rock Inn. Below the cliff-face, the White River reflects the sky, calico bluffs, and surrounding foliage. Vast and beautiful, it is a romantic setting indeed. Deciding on outdoor adventures around Calico Rock can be overwhelming. Is trout fishing your passion? Local outfitters like Jenkins Fishing Service or Bill Terry’s can supply equipment and offer guided tours. The town claims to have the best (and least expensive) trout fishing in the state of Arkansas; a bold claim, but worth an investigation. If you prefer to paddle the river on canoe or kayak, a public boat ramp is easily accessible in town. The White River’s current often flows slow enough to relax while enjoying the scenery and sounds of nature. A few smaller creeks offshoot from the river and provide a perfect place for lazy floating. If the town itself cannot keep you busy, there are many destinations nearby. The vast Ozark National Forest has multiple trails, swimming holes, and fishing streams to explore. Perhaps the most well-known trail near Calico Rock, Sylamore Trail runs 23 miles along the crystal-clear Sylamore Creek. Primitive and developed camping sites are available for hikers and campers. A popular campground is Blanchard Springs Recreation Area. With a waterfall and caves that stretch more than 200 feet below ground to explore, this area is a highlight of any Arkansas trip. A tour guide led

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PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY JOSHUA SAVAGE / DREAMSTIME

us through the chilly Discovery Trail, a 1.2mile trek inside the Blanchard Springs Caverns. Two other tours are available, one of which requires crawling on hands and knees through dark, tight tunnels. Sound fun? It’s worth noting that Izard is a dry county.

Life is why we encourage you to take care of yourself as you take care of your loved ones.

Calico Rock is a popular destination for fishermen. The town claims to have the best — and least expensive — trout fishing in the state of Arkansas.

It still rains frequently, and the humidity in summer is equal to Memphis, but alcohol is not available in Calico Rock. With a little Yelping, I found a brewery within a short drive. Norfolk Brewery is about 15 miles away in the town of Norfolk. The nearby reservoir is also a popular destination for fishermen looking to catch crappie and bass. Another brewery we accidentally happened upon (the rural parts of Arkansas are full of pleasant surprises) was Gravity BrewWorks. The brewery has no food and it’s barely big enough to be noticed from the road, but the beer is outstanding. And, if like me, you aspire to visit breweries around the country, take the 45-minute drive from Calico Rock to Big Flat. But don’t attempt the curvy roads back to Calico Rock under the influence. Fill up a growler and wait until you get settled for the evening. Other idyllic towns dot the highways in the Ozarks of Arkansas, but none have the flavor and authenticity of Calico Rock. Perhaps it’s the friendliness of the locals or the spirit of so much history inside one small town, but it could be the rawness of natural beauty that still exists, almost untouched and wild.

My daughter is why. Everyone has a reason to live a longer and healthier life. What is yours?

Joshua Savage sold most of his possessions and began traveling the world with his wife, Niki, and their two daughters, Sofiah and Kaia. Currently, they have a home base in Bend, Oregon, where he explores, writes, teaches online, and runs the travel company, The Ultimate Scavenger. F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 9 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 29

ST R E E T Style

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ST R E E T Style

DR. PURVISHA PATEL photograph by ziggy mack F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 9 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 31

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TNE W OR E SPTA UR1A N0T S

Hot chicken, surf and turf, and dumplings from Nepal.

hile we are fraught with contention on many fronts, food lovers in Memphis can at least agree on this: We have plenty of new options for

eating out. Our annual restaurant poll included 19 new restaurants with a head-spinning array of menus for casual dishes, shared plates, and more elaborate entrees layered with flavorful ingredients. For their top three choices, Memphis magazine readers — more than a thousand of you — selected sophisticated restaurants with higher-priced food, but more casual restaurants filled out the rest of the Top-10 list. Breakfast? Let the Sunrise. Burgers? Hey, Hopdoddy! Fried chicken? Hello, Hattie B’s. A bookish lunch? Smart thinking, Libro at Laurelwood. Continued development at Crosstown Concourse, the renovated Sears building on North Watkins, also played a big part. Saucy Chicken, Global Café, and the Café at Crosstown Arts opened in time for our annual restaurant poll. Since then, other new restaurants are up and running, and their popularity promises a delicious new year. At Crosstown, there’s a fourth new restaurant — Elemento Neapolitan Pizza — and downtown, Hu Hotel, formerly the Madison Hotel, has launched an upscale diner and renovated its rooftop space for year-round food and drinks. In Collierville, Raven & Lily’s, Zopita’s on the Square, and P.O. Press Public House and Provisions are reenergizing the town’s historic town square. And in East Memphis, Chef Judd Grisanti carries on his father’s legacy at the new Ronnie Grisanti’s Italian Restaurant in the Regalia Shopping Center. Look for a Dining Out review on the new Grisanti’s next month.

e dite d by pa m e l a d e n n e y / p h oto g rap hs b y j u s t i n f o x b u r k s F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 9 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 33

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TOP 10

N E W R E S TA U R A N T S

The Gray Canary

long with innovative and exceptionally good food, standout service defines the restaurants from celebratory chefs Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman. The Gray Canary, the duo’s classy contribution to the city’s downtown restaurant scene, falls right in line, especially on a Sunday evening when we order the restaurant’s crab claws and follow the advice of our server, Ro. “The crab claws are really ‘sopable,’ so you also might want to order Parker rolls,” she says. We laugh and agree that her word is perfect, just like the crab claws afloat in lemon butter sauce with basil and celery slices. Open since last February, The Gray Canary brings wood-fire cooking to Memphis with food and cocktails touched in some way by smoke, char, or ash. For Sunday-night dinner — the restaurant’s alternative to weekend brunch — we follow our appetizers with a compatible trio of shared plates: beets tumbled into pistachio puree; confit sweet potatoes sliced, grilled, and topped with pecans and chorizo coulis; and a 16-ounce pork chop plated with chanterelles, green apples, and a lovely pan sauce made with whey. Like the restaurant’s menu, The Gray Canary’s industrial chic design is distinctive and multipurpose. Order seasonal cocktails and freshly shucked oysters from three coasts in the lounge. Or linger in the dining room, where large factory windows frame the syncopated light show dancing across the Hernando DeSoto Bridge. — Pamela Denney

Executive Chef de Cuisine Ryan Jenniges plates dishes prepared in The Gray Canary’s wood-ﬁre kitchen, the inspiration for the restaurant’s food and cocktail menus. Shared plates build around seasonal produce and hearty proteins, like the restaurant’s thick-cut pork chop with apples and chanterelles.

301 S. FRONT ST. (901-249-2932) $$-$$$. OPEN FOR HAPPY HOUR (4 P.M.) AND DINNER (5 P.M.) TUESDAY THROUGH SATURDAY AND FOR SUNDAY SUPPER 3 TO 9 P.M.

Presenting the winners of our Memphis magazine Readers’ Restaurant Poll

here’s no getting around it; Memphis has quite a good restaurant scene, and the new establishments popping up year after year are no slouches. Going out to eat costs both time and money, though, and you have to be certain that whichever place you choose from afar is going to tick all of the right boxes.

One should always be cautious when getting into the restaurant recommendation game. A myriad of factors out of your control can make or break the dining experience for someone else. Maybe the service is off that night, or perhaps the cook is distracted and your meal overcooks while unattended. Either way,

whether you recommend somewhere to a friend, colleague, or partner, a bad dining experience can have a devastating effect on that relationship. Luckily enough, Memphis magazine has compiled an extensive list of the best places to eat in our most recent Readers’ Restaurant Poll. To

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117 Prime T O P 1 0

N E W R E S TA U R A N T S

hen I think of a steakhouse, I think of dark-brown walls, black leather booths, and lights turned down low. Well, 117 Prime doesn’t look like my preconceptions. It’s bright and upbeat with a mishmash of pretty gilded mirrors on white walls. I visited the restaurant recently with my sister and her husband to celebrate his birthday. Referring to his 16-ounce prime ribeye, my brother-in-law repeatedly said, “I can cut this with a feather!” I ordered the tasty 14-ounce prime New York strip, which I topped with Oscar sauce, a concoction made with crabmeat, asparagus, and béarnaise. I love that sauce. I could have eaten an order by itself. In fact, it’s listed on the menu as a separate item under “Surf & Turf.” Other items on the menu move beyond steak, with shareable sides (don’t miss the creamed spinach) and entrees like salmon, duck breast, and a grilled ﬁlet of butternut squash. On Mondays, try the 16-ounce prime rib special with a loaded baked potato and a choice of salad: Caesar or iceberg wedge. I asked chef/owner Ryan Trimm to tell me his mission statement for the restaurant. “We felt that downtown was in need of a steakhouse, one that focused on the traditions of the American steakhouse: prime cuts of beef, raw bar, wine, whiskey,” he says. “No frills, except for my own twists on a few sides. I have a love for vegetables, speciﬁcally regionally grown things.” — Michael Donahue

At 117 Prime, Chef Ryan Trimm serves steakhouse classics updated for contemporary tastes. Popular dishes include grilled butternut squash with oyster mushroom Rockefeller, surf and turf, and a heavenly dry-aged porterhouse (28 ounces!) with roasted bone marrow. For dessert: Grand Marnìere crème brulee.

ensure the sanctity of the results, Memphis has installed online voting safeguards to prevent multiple entries, making our poll the definitive resource for Memphis’ dining scene. The top three restaurants in each category are listed, with the first-place option listed in

117 UNION AVE. (901-433-9851) $$-$$$. OPEN FOR DINNER SEVEN DAYS A WEEK AT 5 P.M. BAR MENU STARTS AT 4 P.M.

bold type. Each winner had to have received at least 10 percent of the total votes. You’ll surely recognize plenty of familiar names throughout the poll, but be sure to scan the list carefully. After all, your next favorite new restaurant is just waiting to be discovered.

Best Pizza (non-fast food) Memphis Pizza Café Aldo’s Pizza Pies Pyro’s Fire Fresh Pizza

Best Mexican

Las Delicias Las Tortugas Molly’s La Casita

Best Italian

Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen Pete & Sam’s Catherine & Mary’s Bari Ristorante

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TOP 10

N E W R E S TA U R A N T S

Strano by Chef Josh

hef Josh Steiner, whose former restaurant was located in Cooper-Young, re-emerged this year in East Memphis utilizing his Sicilian- and Moroccan-inﬂuenced upbringing for a comprehensive menu of Italian dishes based on the Sicilian practice of using the freshest possible ingredients. At Strano by Chef Josh, the menu opens with a bevy of shared plates, featuring seafood-oriented dishes like the lobster tater tots or calamari, and antipasti selections such as cheese and charcuterie plates. One or two diners with a carnivorous appetite can also feast on the aptly named Bucket of Bones: baby lamb chops, smoked pork ribs, fried chicken legs, and roasted bone marrow best spread on warm bread. Strano’s pasta section includes all the staples, with spaghetti and meatballs, Bolognese, and pesto all featured prominently. Daily selections of market ﬁsh and meat are always available, but no trip to Strano is complete without a look at the pizza on offer. Pepperoni, portobello, and margherita all make appearances, but the most interesting choice is the Uovo topped with prosciutto, garlic cream sauce, arugula, and fried egg mixed in with the cheese. For breakfast fans, Strano hosts weekend brunch with omelettes, scrambles, and breakfast bowls. Don’t overlook Zeppole — donut holes made in-house and slathered with chocolate and caramel sauce — or bottomless mimosas to truly complete Strano’s brunch experience. — Samuel X. Cicci

Newcomers like salmon seared on Himalayan salt blocks and the impressive bucket of bones — fried chicken legs, smoked pork ribs, grilled lamb chops, and roasted bone marrow — join established pizza and pasta favorites at Chef Josh Steiner’s new bar and restaurant in East Memphis.

518 PERKINS EXT. (901-275-8986) $-$$$. OPEN AT 11 A.M. FOR LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS A WEEK AND BRUNCH SATURDAY AND SUNDAY.

Best Mediterranean

Best Japanese

Best Vietnamese

Best Vegetarian/Vegan

Best Chinese

Best Indian

Best Thai

Best Food Truck

Casablanca Taziki Mediterranean Café Kwik Chek Mulan Wang’s Mandarin House A-Tan

Sekisui Sakura Osaka

India Palace Golden India Bombay House

Pho Saigon Pho Binh Lotus Vietnamese Bhan Thai Bangkok Alley Pho Binh

City Silo Table & Pantry Blue Nile Ethiopian Kitchen Pho Binh Central BBQ Say Cheese Fuel Café

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Sunrise Memphis T O P 1 0

N E W R E S TA U R A N T S

f breakfast is the most important meal of the day, then the Medical District’s Sunrise Memphis might just be one of the city’s best spots to say good morning. A three-way collaboration between Craig Blondis, Roger Sapp, and Sweet Grass chef Ryan Trimm, the quick-serve-style diner offers an eclectic menu with a wide array of Southern dishes (some say it has the best biscuits in town) and international twists. In the mood for simple bacon and eggs? Order The Usual — fried egg, cheddar, and bacon — or mix it up with one of the restaurant’s breakfast bowls. Have a hankering for South Korean cuisine? Go with the Sunrise bestseller Bi Bim Breakfast, a marvelous combination of char siu pork, fried egg, kimchi, scallion, pickled daikon, and sticky rice. Feel like a meet-up with the King? Try the King Biscuit, a whopper of a biscuit stacked with egg, fried chicken, country ham, and sausage gravy. At lunch, Sunrise still serves omelettes and pancakes, but there are other options, too, like a Cajun turkey sandwich, a bacon cheeseburger, and an Asian fried chicken tossed in bi bim sauce and served on a bun with sriracha mayo and kimchi. Despite a wide array of options, there’s no wrong choice at Sunrise. On weekends, the restaurant might even bring in Tennessee singer-songwriters for relaxed entertainment while you sip on a mimosa, a cup of J. Brooks coffee, or one of the restaurant’s specialty cocktails. — Samuel X. Cicci

Restauranteurs Craig Blondis and Roger Sapp joined Chef Ryan Trimm to open Sunrise Memphis, a downtown spot for breakfast, lunch, and brunch. Cocktails, breakfast bowls, and avocado toast join more traditional favorites, like buttermilk pancakes and the McBetter, a Southern biscuit layered with sausage, egg, and cheese.

670 JEFFERSON AVE. (901-552-3144) $. OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FOR BREAKFAST AND LUNCH FROM 6 A.M. TO 3 P.M

Best Cajun/Creole

Best Deli

Best Shared Plates

Best Plate Lunch

The Second Line Bayou Bar & Grill Owen Brennan’s Babalu Tapas & Tacos Bounty on Broad Hog & Hominy Tsunami

Elwood’s Shack Young Avenue Deli Bogie’s Deli Soul Fish The Cupboard Restaurant Patrick’s

Best Burger

Best Seafood (non-fast food)

Best Steak

Best Taco

Huey’s Belmont Grill Tops Bar-B-Q Earnestine & Hazel’s Folk’s Folly Ruth’s Chris Steak House 117 Prime

The Half Shell Tsunami Pearl’s Oyster House Flying Fish

Maciel’s Babalu Tapas & Tacos Las Tortugas Las Delicias F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 9 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 37

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TOP 10

N E W R E S TA U R A N T S

Hattie B’s Hot Chicken

hile Memphians may have their squabbles with Nashville, spicy fried chicken is clearly something we all can agree on. On a recent weekend afternoon, the line to Hattie B’s counter stretched across the room from the entrance. With hardly an empty seat in the Cooper Street restaurant, diners were eager to order the chicken and waffles, a Southern specialty only served there on Sundays, with pillowy, sweet waffles alongside freshly fried chicken. But more importantly, patrons wanted their chicken with a kick. The packed house — a regular occurrence here — is proof that the Nashville-born chicken craze came in hot to Memphis, literally. Hattie B’s offers crispy fried chicken six ways: Southern (no heat) and five spicy varieties (mild, medium, hot, Damn Hot, and Shut the Cluck Up) made with a seasoning base of cayenne pepper, with habañero and ghost pepper added in as the heat levels rise. Available in tenders or the more hands-on quarters (prepare to tear apart the legs and thighs), the chicken packs a punch, but the restaurant’s Top 10 designation shows we’re willing to take the hit. Add a side of chilled black-eyed pea salad, made with red and green peppers and a dash of vinegar, to cool the palate. Or go full South and order the pimento mac and cheese to complete the perfect plate. — Shara Clark

Turf wars? Forget it. Hattie B’s is always packed, conﬁrming the Memphis love affair with hot chicken, white or dark, wings or tenders. Pick a heat level (there are six) and sides like crinkle fries or simmered greens. Better yet, order a fried chicken sandwich stacked with slaw, sauce, and pickle.

596 S. COOPER ST. (901-424-5900) $. OPEN SEVEN DAYS A WEEK AT 11 A.M. FOR LUNCH, MONDAY THROUGH SATURDAY FOR DINNER, AND LATE-NIGHT FRIDAY AND SATURDAY.

Best Barbecue Sandwich

Central BBQ Germantown Commissary One & Only BBQ

Best Fried Chicken

Gus’s Fried Chicken Jack Pirtle’s Hattie B’s Hot Chicken

Best Barbecue Ribs

Central BBQ Germantown Commissary One & Only BBQ

Best Brunch

Owen Brennan’s The Beauty Shop Flight Restaurant and Wine Bar Majestic Grille

Best Breakfast

Brother Juniper’s Bryant’s Breakfast Sunrise Memphis

Best Coffeehouse (non-chain) Café Eclectic Muddy’s Bake Shop Otherlands Coffee Bar Ugly Mug Coffee

Best Dessert Shop

Muddy’s Bake Shop Frost Bake Shop Cheesecake Corner

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Wolf River Brisket Co. T O P 1 0

N E W R E S TA U R A N T S

easonal cocktails — a smoked salt margarita is a must — and smoked brisket, chicken, salmon, and wings at Wolf River Brisket Co. have spurred loyal followings at both the original restaurant on Wolf River Boulevard and at a second location in Olive Branch, open since late summer. A new concept for owners Kirk Cotham and Chad Foreman, who also own Pyro’s Fire Fresh Pizza, the restaurants ﬁll a niche for affordable casual dining that is familiar yet chef-driven. Certainly, Chef Gannon Hamilton, a Memphis restaurant veteran, brings impressive experience to the table. “I have a lot of family from Texas, and they would be ashamed of me if I passed up the opportunity to work at a brisket restaurant,” Hamilton said in an interview earlier this year. For soups, sandwiches, shared plates, and entrees, Hamilton’s menu moves beyond expected norms, combining local barbecue tastes with regional styles. Individual dishes, including sides, also show surprise twists: toasted Hawaiian bread topped with pimento cheese and bacon jam; burnt ends, pickles, and slaw piled on cornbread wafﬂes; and baked cheese grits — a favorite on the menu — cooked with smoked chicken stock and garnished with pickled green tomatoes. The restaurant’s mix-and-match biscuit sliders are another runaway hit, Cotham says: “My mom would call them angel biscuits, and we make them fresh every day.” — Pamela Denney

Bright and airy with a busy bar, Wolf River upticks the suburban restaurant scene with craft cocktails and smoked brisket served in many ways. Brisket stew and sliced brisket piled on a torta bun join other entrees from Chef Gannon Hamilton, like salmon with Alabama-inspired white sauce served on the side.

Best Frozen Treat

Jerry’s Sno Cones Mempops La Michoacana

Best Chain Restaurant Houston’s Seasons 52 Boneﬁsh Grill Texas de Brazil

9947 WOLF RIVER BLVD. (901-316-5590) AND 6542 GOODMAN RD. IN OLIVE BRANCH (662-932-2931) $-$$. OPEN MONDAY THROUGH SATURDAY AT 11 A.M. FOR LUNCH AND DINNER.

Best Kid Friendly

Huey’s Belly Acres Memphis Pizza Café Railgarten Aldo’s Pizza Pies

Best People-Watching

Best Date Night

Best Late-Night Dining

Best Outdoor Dining

Peabody Lobby Bar Lafayette’s Music Room Loﬂin Yard Railgarten Huey’s Bardog Tavern The Half Shell

Flight Restaurant and Wine Bar Restaurant Iris Erling Jensen Loﬂin Yard The Second Line Bhan Thai Celtic Crossing

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TOP 10

N E W R E S TA U R A N T S

Hopdoddy Burger Bar

t’s a good thing that a full roll of paper towels rests on each table at Hopdoddy. You’re going to get messy, in the best way, chowing down on one of these burgers. Cooked medium-rare with a beautiful sliver of pink through the center, the patty’s juices seep out with each bite, pooling the plate if you dare to put the burger down to eat a fry. The menu’s mouthwatering variety of burgers served at their two Memphis locations includes the El Diablo, which features pepper jack cheese, habañeros, serranos, caramelized onions, salsa roja, and chipotle aioli. The Breakfast Burger patty is made with a combination of ground sausage, ham, and beef and topped with egg, Applewood smoked bacon, and hash browns — the best of breakfast and dinner worlds sandwiched inside a soft, house-made bun. Chicken, turkey, tuna, and veggie patties are also available, in addition to the vegan Impossible burger, an entirely plant-based option. A big bowl of fries — Kennebec or sweet potatoes — is a nice addition for groups and can be ordered plain or with such toppings as green chile queso or hot honey and sage. Do not, I repeat, do not skip the milkshakes. One of these decadent, sippable concoctions (Nutella Chocolate Pretzel!) is a seriously sweet way to end the meal. — Shara Clark Two busy Memphis locations expand Hopdoddy’s popular brand into Overton Square and East Memphis, with a menu of burgers, sides, and boozy milkshakes upgraded with extras. Buns? House-made every day. Fries? Kennebec potatoes seasoned with hot honey and sage. Burgers? Try Ahi tuna dressed with wasabi, nori chips, and pickled ginger.

2-6 S. COOPER ST. (901-654-5100) AND 4585 POPLAR AVE. (901-683-0700) $. OPEN SEVEN DAYS A WEEK AT 11 A.M. FOR LUNCH AND DINNER AND LATE-NIGHT FRIDAY AND SATURDAY.

Worth the Drive

City Grocery Como Steakhouse Wilson Café

Best Place to Impress Out-of-Towners

Charlie Vergos’ Rendezvous Folk’s Folly Gus’s Fried Chicken Itta Bena

Restaurant We Miss the Most

Best Happy Hour

Best Restaurant

Best Place to Watch the Game

Jim’s Place East Anderton’s Ronnie Grisanti’s – Midtown Flight Restaurant and Wine Bar Folk’s Folly Restaurant Iris

Peabody Lobby Bar Huey’s Bardog Tavern Huey’s Brookhaven Pub Bayou Bar & Grill Young Avenue Deli

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Global Café T O P 1 0

N E W R E S TA U R A N T S

here’s that local rock star, and over there is the Twitter friend, who looks like she’s on a ﬁrst date. It seems everybody is here at Global Café, located inside Crosstown Concourse. There’s a real sense of community. It feels like family. Recently, NPR did a story on Global Café and its larger mission of providing meaningful work for immigrants, as well as a place to break bread. Global Cafe was carved out of some extra space at Curb Market. The result is a bright, pristine place with three stalls, offering food from Syria, Sudan, and Nepal. The food is served vaguely cafeteria style, but this is no ordinary cafeteria food — oh no! There’s Nepalese dumplings, chow mein, and noodle soup from the Nepal stall; a smoky babaganoush with pita, kabobs, and stuffed grape leaves from the Syria stall; and hummus with falafel, sambusa, and chicken shawarma from the Sudan stall. A heaping plate of chow mein will set you back $8.50 and is enough for two meals for the budget-conscious, which might leave you with enough for a drink from the full bar, manned by manager Juan Viramontes. The cocktail menu features nods to the restaurant’s host countries, as well as some classics like the Mai Tai and the martini. The iced mocha, with vodka, Kahlua, Irish cream, and topped with whipped cream, can serve as dessert — the exclamation point to a perfect meal. — Susan Ellis

Chef Indra Sunuwar from Nepal, Chef Ibti Salih from Sudan, and Chef Fayha Sakkan from Syria serve traditional (and exceptional!) dishes like chicken shawarma at Global Café, one of several new restaurants at Crosstown Concourse. General manager Juan Viramontes also mixes cocktails, both classic martinis and new concoctions like Nepalese Green Tea.

Best Craft Cocktails

Alchemy Peabody Lobby Bar Art Bar at Crosstown

Best Dive Bar

Earnestine & Hazel’s Alex’s Tavern Brookhaven Pub Silky O’Sullivan’s

1350 CONCOURSE AVE. (901 512-6890) $. OPEN AT 11 A.M. FOR LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS A WEEK.

Best Wine List

Flight Restaurant and Wine Bar Folk’s Folly Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen

Best Beer Selection

Flying Saucer Young Avenue Deli Boscos Squared

Best Local Brewery Wiseacre Ghost River Memphis Made

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TOP 10

N E W R E S TA U R A N T S

The Liquor Store

elcome to Fantasy Island! Stay with us here. On the one hand, up at the counter of The Liquor Store, you can easily picture yourself in a Mad Menera reverie. You’re in your period-appropriate smart suit, sensible heels, and gloves, enjoying piping hot coffee in a logoed mug and a piece of The Liquor Store’s signature tres leches cake (which is très delicious). On the other hand, The Liquor Store is thoroughly modern, with its thoughtful menu, full bar, and notes of Cuban inﬂuence. Breakfast is served all day. We’re talking generous heaps of hash browns, pancakes, steak, and eggs. But wait, there’s more: crab dip, cheese fries, chopped salad, Salisbury steak (!), and burgers (including the vegan-friendly Impossible Burger). The bar menu features some throwbacks, including a champagne cocktail and a milk punch, but this milk punch is made with matcha, a green tea powder. The restaurant’s name comes from the one-time purpose of the site. For the restaurant, the building was thoroughly rehabbed, and the interior is now an Instagrammer’s delight with pretty green accents and a palm-frond fabric, calling up the tropics. Out back is a patio bar, which makes use of repurposed shipping containers. It’s like a little island in the middle of Binghampton. Yep, a fantasy island! — Susan Ellis

The pork on the Cuban sandwich roasts for 14 hours at The Liquor Store, an eclectic diner and cocktail bar on Broad Avenue that mixes international ﬂavors with American retro classics. (That’s Salisbury Steak pictured above.) Operated by Juis and Lisa Toro, the diner also serves breakfast all day and weekend brunch.

2655 BROAD AVE. (901-405-5477) $. OPEN AT 8 A.M. FOR BREAKFAST, LUNCH, AND DINNER MONDAY THROUGH SATURDAY, AND SUNDAY, FROM 8 A.M. TO 4 P.M.

Top Chefs Kelly English Restaurant Iris

Andrew Ticer & Michael Hudman

Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen / Hog & Hominy / Catherine & Mary’s / The Gray Canary

Erling Jensen Erling Jensen, the Restaurant

Ben Smith Tsunami

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Libro at Laurelwood T O P 1 0

N E W R E S TA U R A N T S

love Libro at Laurelwood, the restaurant at Novel bookstore. It’s — in a word — civilized. People are quietly engaged in conversations at the restaurant’s bar or tables, while people in the bookstore area read or browse. According to Josh Spotts and his wife, Caley, whom I sat next to at the bar, Libro is where they eat at least once a week. The restaurant is “easy,” Caley says. “And so good,” Josh adds. The couple also love Sunday brunch, where they take their three children. Even better, the food is spectacular. Since the restaurant’s executive chef Armando Gagliano told me about the dish, porcini mushroom ravioli is my go-to order every time I eat at Libro. The popular dish, which includes goat cheese, ricotta, chives, toasted pine nuts and butter, is rich and delicious. The roasted tomato soup — made with garlic, Cabrales blue cheese, and fried ginger — also is impressive, and I usually get the cobbler of the day. The one I ordered at a recent lunch was the berry cobbler. To make it even better, I topped the dessert with Amaretto whipping cream, which is made in-house. For me, it’s always a good sign to see a chef from another restaurant at the one I’m patronizing. Andrew Adams, executive chef at Acre Restaurant, says he loves to come in, grab a book, and eat. — Michael Donahue

You may know Sabine Bachmann, pictured above with her sons, Chef Armando Gagliano and manager John Paul Gagliano, from Midtown’s Ecco on Overton Park. Inside Novel bookstore in East Memphis, the trio bring similar culinary expertise, serving scrumptious Italian plates like beef ragu and house-made ravioli.

Jose Gutierrez River Oaks

Patrick Reilly Majestic Grille

387 PERKINS EXT. INSIDE NOVEL (901-800-2656) $$. OPEN MONDAY THROUGH SATURDAY FROM 9 A.M. FOR BREAKFAST, LUNCH, AND DINNER AND SUNDAY AT 11 A.M. FOR BRUNCH.

Felicia Willett Felicia Suzanne’s

Max Hussey Folk’s Folly

Michael Patrick Rizzo’s Diner

Josh Steiner

Strano by Chef Josh

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PHOTOGRAPH BY KAREN PULFER FOCHT

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L O C A L

T R E A S U R E S

Mr. Malmo’s Monkeys On marketing, Memphis, and the lost art of jingles. by anna traverse EDI TOR’S NOT E: “Local Treasures” is an occasional series that celebrates our city’s senior celebrities, people whose impact over the decades has helped make Memphis a better place.

ou’ve really gotten a weird interview,” John Malmo comments as we’re wrapping up a conversation ranging from his life, work, and family to sponge mops and f loor wax, baseball and billboards.

I’ve made the long journey up three whole f loors in the Cotton Exchange Building, from the Memphis magazine offices to the space occupied by Archer Malmo, the marketing agency named for Ward Archer Sr., and, well, the man sitting across the table. If you listen to WKNO-FM, you’ve probably heard Malmo on the radio in the mornings, on your drive to work, in his “Ask Mr. Malmo” segments. (“I think, at least in some circles, they’re popular,” he says of the ’KNO segments. “I think that’s because they’re 90 seconds long.”) And if you’ve been reading print media in Memphis for a while, you may remember, too, his long-running column in The Commercial Appeal. Listening to these segments myself, I’d formed a quite specific mental picture of the 86-year-old: white-haired, animated, lively, talks with his hands, small of stature (these turned out to be accurate). And, most specific of all: bowtied. I was sure I could hear a bowtie over the radio waves. So, one day on the elevator, when a fellow passenger asked me with that recognizable voice John Malmo in his office at Archer Malmo. At 86, he still maintains a handful of clients.

about the week’s Memphis Flyer cover story, I was a bit f lummoxed to discover there was not a single bowtie aboard the elevator car. F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 9 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 45

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Malmo’s spin is spinless and the opposite of spineless.

That’s Malmo’s name on the agency’s logo, and he has an office here where he works four days each week, but he’s careful to point out that he doesn’t own, run, or direct the show. In 1991, Malmo sold his firm to Ward Archer & Associates, and Archer Malmo was born. These days, he maintains a limited number of accounts, and one senses functions as a sort of elder statesman-consultant in the agency. Malmo was born in Milwaukee, but raised here in Memphis,

team, which had several major leaguers on it. We had a great pitcher from the Cardinals” — baseball stars could get drafted, too — “so I was constantly sending releases about [Wilmer] ‘Vinegar Bend’ Mizell to the St. Louis papers.” He had worked briefly for The Commercial Appeal, while still living in Memphis, and while he was in the Army, he was a stringer for the Atlanta Journal-Constitution, reporting about, well, baseball. After completing his service

Never one to miss an opportunity for a laugh, Malmo refers to his own book as “bathroom reading.”

where his family moved when he was 4 years old. He’s lived here ever since, with the exception of the years he spent in college and just after, and in the Army. He went to Sewanee first, but then when his father died, in the springtime, Malmo needed to be closer to Memphis — but didn’t much want to go to “Southwestern or Memphis State” (now Rhodes and U of M), so he went to Ole Miss – for three semesters. Then he flunked out, got drafted. This was during the Korean War, but Malmo worked stateside, at the Public Information Office at Fort McPherson, in Georgia. He had a fondness for baseball, and a facility for publicity, so, he says, “I ended up being the publicist for the Third Army, for the Fort McPherson baseball

to the Army, Malmo finished his college degree at Boston University. (He thought first of pursuing his degree at Northwestern University; he remembers talking to their dean of admissions, who reviewed his transcript, and told him, “Mr. Malmo, your college record is absolutely atrocious.”) He wound up completing a semester at Southwestern “to get quality points,” then on to BU. While still a student, he began working as the night editor for a daily newspaper in Quincy, Massachusetts — the Patriot Ledger, with circulation around 50,000. “Greatest paper I ever worked for,” he tells me. What made it so great? I ask. “It was owned by a wealthy family who didn’t care about making any money.” Malmo chalks up a good bit of

his success to good luck. Decent judgment, too. His very first story for the Patriot Ledger required him to attend a meeting of the South Shore Planning Association. He sat in the back of the room, taking notes. The man running the meeting noticed him, and asked who he was, and why he was there. When Malmo answered that he was there for the paper, “He said, ‘Gentlemen, I move that we authorize $100 to give to this reporter in the back to write the story favorably for us.’” He didn’t take the money – even though $100 was about double what he was being paid to be there that night — but he did go back to the newspaper office and write two stories: one reporting on the meeting, and one reporting the fact that the Planning Association had attempted to bribe a reporter. He left both versions sitting on his editor’s desk. If Malmo were someone else, someone more doggedly dogmatic, he might use this story as an anecdote about the triumph of conscience over corruption. But he’s more mischievous than that, and more self-effacing. “I can’t even remember which one they ran,” he says, slightly tickled. After about three years in Boston, he moved back to Memphis. It was 1959, in early May; one night, snow fell so heavily that the next morning, he couldn’t find his car. “That was when I decided I wasn’t staying in Boston. I couldn’t live anyplace that it could snow three feet in May.” Malmo’s spin is spinless, and the opposite of spineless. He’s all straightforward, straight-ahead clarity — not in the business of adding embellishments when the story doesn’t warrant any. The snow in Boston got too deep, so he dug himself out and headed all the way back to Memphis. Simple. Returned to Memphis, he wanted a job in advertising, but couldn’t get one, so he went back to The Commercial Appeal. Simple, but not without art. In 2003, he published a book with the riddle of a title, When on the

PHOTOGRAPH BY KAREN PULFER FOCHT

LOC A L TR E A SU R ES

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mountain there is no tiger, Monkey Is King. (No, it is not about Elvis. Or zoos.) The book includes “110 two-minute business pearls for everyone who works,” and its author may possibly have handed over a copy while remarking that it is “bathroom reading.” The chapters each bear an aphoristic title, with varying degrees of silliness — “Business slanguage just adds more alligators to the swamp,” for instance, begins a lesson on the uselessness of corporate lingo (or, as he puts it, “slumber-party, kickypoo talk”). Malmo’s career is varied enough to have allowed for the creation of enough business “pearls” to drape strings of them around the downtown building where we’re talking. There was PR for the Cotton Carnival. Working for The Commercial

“There is no greater corporate asset than a handful of employees that thinks as children.” — john malmo Appeal at a few different times in his life. Working for an ad agency here in Memphis. Going in-house at the E.L. Bruce Company (later Cook Industries), which was at one time among Memphis’ largest employers; the company made hardwood flooring, wall paneling, laminated truck flooring, floor wax, and so on. Terminix, as it happens, was begun as a division of E.L. Bruce, since if you make hardwood flooring, it’s in your interests to figure out how to protect them from termites. Never one to keep a lofty distance from the work at hand, Malmo says, “I think I’m bald because hair doesn’t grow through scars, and I have crawled under many a house with Terminix guys trying to really get a feel for the business.” He decided to start his own shop when he was on the receiving end of one too many a shoddy advertising-agency pitch. (Pro tip: Don’t sell your marketing services to a company without first researching what they make.) He bartered for a small office space above the old B & S Delicatessen, on South Second (“I didn’t have

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LOC A L TR E A SU R ES

I owe just so much to the opportunity to make every mistake possible.

“

Malmo-isms

You learn so much by failure, and so little by success.

”

Real marketing is being able to maximize the assets of the company, to take advantage of existing opportunities, and identify new opportunities that make the best use of the corporation’s assets. Once you do that, then you may use all that other crap.

“

”

People have many more assets than they realize. What about your trucks? That’s an asset. And your distributors, that’s an asset. And your dealers, that’s an asset. What about your people? What about their knowledge? That’s an asset.

You have to have something to say. What do you have to say? Start there. You probably won’t have to go any farther.

“

Everybody in the media bends over so far not to express any opinions. I’m all opinion.

”

to go out to eat — I just had to open the door and sniff ”), very bare-bones. His agency, John Malmo Advertising, grew into office space in the Sterick Building, then continued growing, to the Commerce Title Building, and then to 47 Union. By 1991, Malmo recalls, “I was tired, and we’d lost a big piece of business.” He hated the feeling of hiring talented creative people from New York and elsewhere, bringing them down to Memphis, and then having to make gut-wrenching personnel decisions when the business contracted. “I never had really enjoyed running the agency any-

What drives this business is the medium. It’s not creativity. It’s the medium.

“

If you say the right thing to the right person at the right time, it doesn’t make any difference what typeface you put it in. If it’s the right people, the right time, and you’re saying the right thing, it’s going to be a huge success regardless.

”

“ ”

” “

“

”

I’m a big believer in billboards. Inhome media has really been so damaged. It’s almost impossible to get somebody’s complete attention with any kind of in-home media.

”

way,” he says. “Being a management executive was not what I wanted to do. I wanted to make advertising, and I had really gotten enthralled with what I consider to be real marketing.” Okay, so what’s “real marketing,” Mr. Malmo? “Real marketing is being able to maximize the assets of the company, to take advantage of existing opportunities, and to identify new opportunities that make the best use of the assets of the corporation. And once you do that, you may use all that other crap.” (“All that other crap” being advertisements and sales promotion and PR — what people might think of when

See, you’ve got to have a guy who can get teary-eyed about nails, because he manufactures nails. And nails are his life. He’s got to be able to get teary-eyed about it. And if you don’t have anybody like that, you’re just always going to be selling nails.

”

“

I disagree with every deﬁnition of marketing that I’ve ever been able to ﬁnd.

”

PHOTOGRAPH BY KAREN PULFER FOCHT

“

they think of marketing.) Malmo tells of talking with Hunter Fans, a client of his back in the early 1970s. There was a business recession, and the company was struggling. They were also, at that time, not primarily a fan company at all — Hunter were making baseboard heaters, mostly. But one “old guy in the back of the shop” was making fans, by hand, and that sole part of the business seemed to be doing well. Malmo intuited that customers would go for the nostalgia factor of a ceiling fan, and he also recognized that the market was ready for more energy-efficient cooling techniques,

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PHOTOGRAPH BY KAREN PULFER FOCHT

on account of the energy crisis. So, on his recommendation, the company pivoted to fans — and started turning profits (pun intended). To Malmo, all this falls under the rubric of marketing — analyzing the market’s appetites, understanding the company’s own assets, and finding how to fit assets to appetites. At the beginning of our conversation, I mentioned that, in a past life, I used to study poetry; he shared that Betty, his wife — “she’s four

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years younger than I am, only 82” — was memorizing a poem by Robert Frost the other night, using her iPad. (Malmo and Betty have two children, Virginia White and John ‘Dede’ Malmo Jr., and two grandchildren; all live in Memphis.) People don’t read poetry like they used to, we lament, both feeling a bit curmudgeonly about it. And certainly they don’t memorize verse. But once a poem is lodged firmly in one’s consciousness, it’s there to stay, there to add texture and offer perspective on one’s own life. Now, toward the end of our conversation, he brings up the topic of jingles, and we might as well be having the same discussion over again, now substituting Pepsi-Cola for Frost. “Pepsi-Cola hits the spot. 12 full ounces, that’s a lot. Twice as much for a nickel, too. Pepsi-Cola’s the drink for you,” Malmo sings across the table. “I haven’t heard that in probably 60 or 70 years,” he tells me, at least not outside his own mind. But the jingle is there to stay, pure and perfect. A kind of poetry.

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r. Jeffrey Warren remembers the first time a pharmaceutical salesman came to his office, offering a new medication called Oxycontin. “It must have been about 20

years ago. They told me how much better it was, how it was going to make all my pain patients happy, and yet not get them addicted,” says Warren, a family-medicine physician with Regional One Health. “Well, that just didn’t sound right to me.”

Oxycontin and other products like it in the opioid class of medicines (Percocet, Dilaudid, Vicodin, and others) were initially hailed as miracle drugs because they do indeed reduce pain. But patients quickly discovered how addictive opioids can be — and how deadly, leading to heart failure and respiratory arrest when taken in high doses. A chart released by the group TN Together, a Governor Bill Haslam initiative whose stated purpose is “Ending the Opioid Crisis,” shows the increasing number of deaths from patients who overdose on these drugs when they increase the dosage to fatal levels. The F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 9 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 51

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rug addiction is nothing new, of course. “If you look at the history of medicine, you look at the history of heroin, opium, cocaine, morphine, and all these scourges,” Warren says. “They’ve waxed and waned since the 1800s, when many of them were legal.” The problem is that even “hard” drugs like heroin and cocaine have a “therapeutic window” — a certain amount of time when they are indeed effective at reducing pain. Depending on the drug, however, that window eventually closes as the patient’s body adapts to the initial dose, the pain relief drops, and the patient requests — even demands — higher doses. This is what, inexorably, leads to addiction and overdose. Warren says his main responsibility, as their personal physician, is to know his patients as much as possible. “You want your docarren has certainly seen a tor to know you as a whole person,” he says, wide range of patients over a ca- “and then that makes a difference in how reer that spans medicine and local they treat you.” politics. Born in Salisbury, North Carolina, With a full knowledge of the person’s backhe earned a bachelor’s degree at Yale and ground and medical history, Warren is able to studied medicine at Duke. He completed his stay on the lookout for drug-seeking behavfellowship at East Tennessee State Univer- ior. “You look for someone who is constantly sity in Johnson City, his residency at Long trying to up their dose,” he says. “Or losing Island Jewish Medtheir prescriptions ical Center, and his two or three months internship at the Coin a row, or wanting lumbia-Presbyterian it filled earlier.” Medical Center. Once he deterWarren initially mines that a patient began his medical has a true medical condition that is practice in New York, working at Queens causing chronic pain, Hospital Center and which can be the result of any number of then serving as the medical officer at conditions, from canthe Riker’s Island cer to nerve disorCorrectional Center. ders, then he is faced with a challenge. After relocating to Memphis, in 1992 he The “new rules” Warren mentioned established Primary Dr. Jeff Warren Care Specialists beearlier refer to a sefore selling that pracries of bills enacted “You look for someone who tice and joining Reby the Tennessee legislature in 2018. gional One Health. is constantly trying to up “I always liked sciAs he explains it, the their dose, or losing their ence,” he says. “And first step is “you reas an athlete [Warren prescriptions months in a row.” ally have to tell peoplayed football at ple what each one of Yale], I experienced a lot of care from doctors these drugs can do for them, but also what it growing up, and I saw this as a good way to can do to them.” use science to help people.” If you have been a longtime patient, then An associate professor of family medicine Warren can write a prescription for, let’s say, at the University of Tennessee Health Science Oxycontin — “but for no more than three Center, Warren is also a member of the Uni- days at a time, and only twice a month.” Even versity of Memphis Biomedical Engineering then, the patient has to return to the office for advisory board and serves as the medical di- a full battery of tests before that prescription rector for Trezevant Manor and The Parkview can be refilled a second time. After that, Warassisted living facilities. Along the way, he has ren is required by law to refer the person to a served on the Memphis City Schools board as specialized pain clinic, where their medicawell as other civic organizations. tions are closely monitored.

PHTOGRAPH COURTESY REGIONAL ONE HEALTH

Memphis Magazine’s

THE 2018

dark bars on the chart march across the page like tombstones. In 2012, physicians reported 698 opioid-overdose deaths in Tennessee. By 2016, the most recent year data was available, that number had almost doubled, with 1,186 deaths reported. As a result, “I can’t even give you Oxycontin anymore,” says Warren. “Here’s the new rule: If you haven’t been my chronic pain patient before the law came in, I can’t write you a prescription for pain medicine.” Opioid addiction has been making the news lately, with good reason, but Warren’s patients also come to him with other addictive disorders — non-prescription drug abuse, smoking, alcohol problems, and more. As their primary-care physician, he often serves as the first line of treatment as he steers them on the road to recovery.

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Insurance companies are also paying close attention. “I get a printout from Blue Cross Blue Shield that shows every provider in the state who’s a family practitioner, and where they are regarding how many narcotics they write,” he says. Because he also serves as the medical director for Trezevant Manor, where elderly patients often have chronic pain problems, “I’m somewhere in the middle. I’d probably be lower, but I have a lot of patients with hip fractures, cancer patients, and things like that.” Such careful monitoring has made many doctors nervous. “It’s complicated because now you have people who won’t write [these prescriptions] at all because they don’t want to get into it [with the various agencies.],” he says. “There was a recent case in California where a doctor was sued, and lost, for not writing a pain prescription for a patient who was actually in pain.” What makes the matter eveTreatment of more challenging is how subjectivepain requires a pain can be; there balancing act. is no specific test for it. “For a certain period, the Joint Commission on Hospital Accreditation decided they were going to make pain the fifth vital sign,” says Warren. “Along with blood pressure, pulse, temperature, and respiratory rate, they would add pain.” A doctor can tell if a patient has too much pain medication because they act over-sedated. “Their respiratory rate goes down, they start to slur their speech, that sort of thing,” says Warren. And a patient is clearly in some level of pain if their blood pressure increases upon exertion. “If it goes up 50 points because it hurts to walk, then they are in pain,” says Warren. “But a lot of it is still subjective.” Anyone ever admitted to the hospital remembers being asked to rate their pain on a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being “like you’ve been hit by a train.” As subjective as that is (how does it feel to be hit by a train?), doctors are often required to use that number to monitor the dosage of painkillers. “You know how I write pain medicine in the hospital?” asks Warren. “I have to say, ‘Give this guy a pain scale of 1 to 3. Give this one a pain scale of 4 to 7.’ And then we dose it based on that.” Treatment of pain requires a balancing act, because a doctor doesn’t want to keep effective medications away from people who truly need them. “I think we’re heading in the right direction,” he says, referring to the new regulations. “We may have overstepped how we’re doing it, but I think we can bring it back a bit, and not hurt people who truly need their drugs, and at the same time treat people who are addicted to them, and are actually hurting themselves with their medication.”

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THE 2018

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ven though Warren shares concerns about the opioid crisis, he sometimes wonders if our priorities are skewed. “The opioid addiction is grabbing headlines,” he says, “but look at how many people died from lung cancer or heart disease because they were smokers.” According to the Tennessee Department of health, more than 11,000 people die yearly in this state from the effects of cigarette smoking. “Smoking is probably more addictive than most things you can do,” says Warren, “so it’s really hard to get off of smoking.” Not only does a patient’s body develop a physical addiction to the nicotine in cigarettes, the act of smoking itself becomes a habit: “It’s what you do when you take a break. It’s what you do when you get in the car. It’s what you do when you finish eating. It’s what you do when you have a beer.” Warren sees patients who have been in the hospital, where they weren’t allowed to smoke while they had surgery or other procedures.

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“When they get out, I tell them, ‘You’re not a smoker now. All that nicotine is out of your system. You haven’t smoked for three days, or five days, or seven days. So all you have to do to remain a non-smoker is this: Don’t smoke that first one.’” But that’s what makes it so hard, and as a former smoker, Warren recognizes this challenge in his patients. “Something good will happen, and you decide to celebrate with a cigarette. And you tell yourself, ‘Hey, I was able to smoke just one cigarette.’ But then you smoke another the next day, and then work up to two, and you still say, ‘Okay, I’ll go up to two but not any after that.’” Well, pretty soon that “non-smoker” is a smoker again. As their personal physician, Warren monitors his patients with X-rays and even such observations as the color of their teeth, or the smell of cigarette smoke on their clothing. He warns them of the danger: that there is no acceptable level of smoking. “There’s an interesting new study that just came out of England, which shows that one pack a day increases your risk of heart attack or stroke 200 percent over non-smokers. Just five cigarettes a day increases your risk 80 percent.” Warren helps his patients by prescribing drugs like Chantix, which reduces the body’s craving for nicotine; or nicotine patches, which allow patients to gradually reduce the

901 HE A LTH

dose of that drug, as it is absorbed through the skin, instead of being breathed into the lungs. Warren often suggests substitutes, such as chewing lots of sugar-free gum, and he points out the American Lung Association has a step-by-step quit-smoking program that patients can use online. But he doesn’t feel comfortable with other options. “We initially thought that vaping [electronic tobacco-free cigarettes] might be a good idea — to have patients switch from smoking to vaping,” he says. “There’s no nicotine in those, but there are other chemicals in vaping, and there are no controlled studies that show what might happen 20 or 30 years down the road. It makes you less stinky, but it probably isn’t any safer.”

“Opioid addiction is grabbing headlines, but look at how many people died because they were smokers.”

ILLUSTRATION BY SKYPIXIL / DREAMSTIME

s a primary-care physician, Warren also treats patients with other addictive disorders. If the issue is alcoholism, he can prescribe medications that help with withdrawal, put them in contact with local Alcoholics Anonymous groups, or get them admitted into full-scale treatment centers. “With alcohol, we’ve made some progress because it’s now recognized as a disease, and not a character flaw,” he says. “Even so, treatment is not just one person. The family needs to be involved, their church needs to be involved, their whole social network

needs to be involved. It’s not a one-stop shop for treatment.” For eating disorders, he may initially monitor diet and medications, but often refers those patients to psychiatrists, therapists, and other mental-health professionals. The same applies to patients addicted to non-prescription drugs, such as tranquilizers and anti-depressants, which can have brutal side effects from withdrawal if a patient has taken

them long-term. He can monitor their dosage and help them reduce it over a long period or time, or send them to a psychiatrist or treatment center. In short, a primary-care physician can help with problems that patients cannot treat on their own. “What you have to do is be their champion,” says Warren. “You have to let them know you care, and you have to keep reminding them that you are not giving up on them.”

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ASK VANCE

Dearie Our trivia expert solves local mysteries of who, what, when, where, why, and why not. Well, sometimes.

by vance lauderdale DEAR VANCE: While I was researching the history of the Memphis Zoo, I came across an unusual advertisement in a guidebook from 1908. There’s no photo or illustration, just the words: “DEARIE. What is it? Where is it?” Can you answer those two questions? — t.f., memphis.

A vintage postcard shows the interior of Dearie, and an old photograph shows its location on a busy Main Street in 1912.

Indeed I can, though there is one question about this interesting establishment that I cannot answer and … well, I’ll get to that later. I know the old guidebook you mentioned, for I have a copy in the Lauderdale Library and was able to find the ad you mentioned. The booklet itself is a tiny thing, barely 2 by 5 inches, so the Dearie advertisement, at the top of the “opossum” page, is barely an inch tall. As you noted, it doesn’t offer much information, does it? Far more useful is a vintage postcard from the same period (the very early 1900s) shown below, revealing the interior of this establishment. As you can see from the somewhat grainy image, at first glance it looks like a rather fancy, old-timey soda fountain, and the card shows that it was located at 51/2 N. Main Street, and A.J. Oakey was the proprietor. But this wasn’t a drugstore, where you might find many soda fountains of the day. Instead, Dearie was a shop offering “the purest fruit beverages and finest candies,” according to a listing I turned up in a 1908 Memphis city directory. Now that seems a rather limited selection, but Dearie featured a fancy mosaic tile floor, marble-topped DEARIE — OOPS, I MEANT, DEAR T.F.:

tables, and glass cases stocked with boxes of candy. It’s hard to see, but the counter to the right has a massive brass cash register, jars filled to the top with candy or gumballs, vases filled with flowers, and rather elaborate painted decorations on the walls and ceilings. Massive wooden pillars hold up another marble-topped counter, and rows of mirrors make the tiny space seem larger than it really was. The owner of this cozy shop, tucked away in a two-story building at Main and Madison, was Archibald J. Oakey. Born here in 1868, Archibald was the only son of John Oakey, who had ventured here from England sometime in the late 1800s and opened a saloon on Beale Street. Ads for the Oakey Saloon announced, “A dealer in the best brands of Lincoln, bourbon, and rye whiskey. A specialty of imported gin, brandy, wines, ale, and porter. Schlitz beer on draught. Also cigars and tobacco.” In other words, if you wanted something to drink, you would probably find it at Oakey’s, though I have to admit I had never heard of “Lincoln whiskey” until now. Archibald went to work for his father sometime around 1885, when he was only 17 years old. Starting as a clerk, he became a bookkeeper and watched as 111 Beale expanded to a full-scale eatery called Oakey’s American Kitchen. Ads now proclaimed, “Our table service is unexcelled. Game, oysters, and all the delicacies in season.” By 1902, although his father still owned the place, Archibald was listed as the manager, with both of them at first living above the restaurant, but later sharing a house at 122 Hernando, just a few blocks away. For whatever reason, in 1908 Archibald struck out on his own and opened

What does “Dearie” mean? I simply don’t know.

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his candy and fruit-drink store on North Main. This would have been an extremely busy location in the early 1900s. Just around the corner was Banker’s Row, a three-block stretch of Madison lined with the oldest and largest banks in the city. Along that side of Main Street were such popular establishments as the oddly named EEE Shoe Store, the Great A&P Tea Company (as the grocery chain was first called), and Fortune-Ward Drug Company (offering one of this city’s first true soda fountains). Across the street was the D.T. Porter building, considered our city’s first “skyscraper” and giving visitors a rare chance to take Memphis’ first elevator to various offices in the 12-story building overlooking Court Square. I managed to turn up a photo of Main and Madison as it looked in the early 1900s (left). You can see the “Dearie” sign in the corner, and you certainly get a sense of how busy this section of downtown was in those days, with the sidewalks jammed with pedestrians and a steady line of streetcars rumbling along Main. Dearie was surely a success in such a prime location. But Archibald Oakey died in 1917 at the age of 52, succumbing to a kidney ailment. With his father still running his own restaurant on Beale, there was no one to take over the candy business. In 1918 the little shop became home to the Standard Fashion Company, which I presume was some kind of clothing store. It later housed the Martha Washington Candy Store, the Sarnoff-Irving Hat Company, Jean’s Hosiery Shoppe, and the Betty Maid Shop. After a fire in the early 1960s, the cluster of old buildings at Main and Madison was demolished and replaced with a more modern structure, which housed the Lerner Shops for years. Today, the former site of Dearie is home to WellWorx, a health and fitness establishment. Now, T.F., I admitted there was one question I can’t answer, no matter how hard I peer at old postcards or advertisements: What does “Dearie” mean? I simply don’t know. At first I thought the shop might be named after a member of the Oakey family, but I turned up nothing (Archibald never married, so it’s not the name of a wife or daughter). I also considered that it might be the brand name of a candy, or perhaps a fruit drink they sold from that period, and again I hit a dead-end. So regarding Dearie, I can tell you who, what, when, and where — but the “why” has stumped me.

Rainbow Terrace

DEAR VANCE: I found this photo (above) tucked away

in a Memphis yearbook and am trying to confirm if it shows a curiously empty Anderton’s East restaurant. — b.h., memphis.

DEAR B.H.: When you say “trying to confirm” I presume

that you want me to do that for you. And I can’t do it — for the simple reason that this isn’t Anderton’s.

I immediately noticed the peculiar decorative blobs mounted on the walls and thought they looked familiar, but they didn’t quite match the unusual interior that was a hallmark of Anderton’s East, with its similar bloblike “clouds” that floated across the ceiling of that restaurant on Madison Avenue. So I was prepared to settle back in my La-Z-Boy and think for a good long time — weeks, if need be — until I could recall where I had seen them before. Then I had a better idea. I had Basil run the photo through the electron scanning microscope in the Lauderdale Laboratories, and see if it enhanced the faint lettering visible on the white napkins on the tables in this photograph. Sure enough, the stitching clearly reads “Rainbow Terrace.” Even though the place is indeed “curiously empty” but apparently open for business, the Rainbow Terrace was the main restaurant for one of Memphis’ most popular attractions, called Rainbow Lake. First opened in 1936 at 2879 Lamar by the Piericcini family, the same folks who later owned Clearpool, just down the road a bit, the “lake” wasn’t what drew visitors. Instead, Rainbow offered one of the city’s finest public swimming pools, complete with white sand “beaches,” along with one of the city’s largest skating rinks and other enticements, such as the nice dining room you see here. But Rainbow Lake went through rough times — there were fires, robberies, even a drowning. In the 1960s the Memphis AFL-CIO Building Association purchased the 14-acre property and turned the various buildings into offices. Later, Pancho’s converted it into a manufacturing plant for their food products. Nowadays, that stretch of Lamar is a subdivision, without a trace of the pool, rink, or the Rainbow Terrace.

The Rainbow Terrace was usually packed at the Rainbow Lake entertainment complex.

Got a question for vance?

EMAIL: askvance@memphismagazine.com MAIL: Vance Lauderdale, Memphis magazine, 65 Union Avenue, Suite 200, Memphis, TN 38103 ONLINE: memphismagazine. com/ask-vance

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GARDEN VARIETY

Setting the Stage February is the best time to prepare for a mid- to late-summer hydrangea performance.

by john a. jennings

that, if caught early enough in the season, might knock it out and minimize the damage. But, more likely, this effort will be an expensive and somewhat time-consuming fail. Instead, the best course of action is prevention, the steps of which should begin in the Mid-South in February. Now, to be clear, these fungal infections, bags, photos on smartphones, or both, wantthough terribly unsightly, are rarely directly ing to buy something to cure this disease, to fatal to the plants. Still, they may as well be save their plants, and make them look pretty because of the degree to which an infected again, right away. The sudden repulsiveness plant detracts from the value of the landscape. of the leaves, contrasting with the striking So, what can you do to prevent this disease? beauty of the blooms, T he step s a re I tend to think wood mulch is a bad fairly simple. Since destroys what might otherwise be the hydrangeas are deidea for all plants, preferring pine best time of the year ciduous and shed needles, but it’s especially bad for their leaves each for some hydrangeas, plants like hydrangeas that are prone fall, the leaves are July through leaf typically re-infectdrop. Alas, by the to fungal problems. time these symptoms ed each spring by appear, there is not much that can be done for spores that overwinter in the soil below the plant that year. the plant — spores that originated in last Oh sure, it’s possible a garden center emyear’s leaves. So, the first step is good hyployee might successfully identify the exact drangea hygiene. Gather up leaves as soon fungal strain attacking a particular plant, after leaf drop as possible and, when you maybe Cercospora hydrangea or Botrytis cinerea, enter your garden on the first not-too-cold and sell the customer the right fungicide, day in February, be scrupulous in getting

ery few of the genera from which ornamental plant shrubs derive cause as much excitement or as much consternation in the Southeast as the hydrangea. Containing more than 70 species, not to mention hundreds of varieties, cultivars, and forms, the magnificence and variety of its offerings, and their varied care, can be intimidating to old and new gardeners alike. Of course, though the genus itself has members numbering in the hundreds, only a few species are commonly seen in the nursery trade in our neck of the woods. They include Hydrangea arborescens (smooth hydrangea), Hydrangea macrophylla (big leaf hydrangea), Hydrangea paniculata (panicled hydrangea), Hydrangea quercifolia (oak leaf hydrangea), and Hydrangea serrata (similar to big leaf but more compact). Though all of these plants are deciduous, and all like acidic soil to various degrees, they vary in average size of plants, leaf shape, and bloom shape, size, and color. But, alas, they all seem to share one common complaint — brown or black spots covering the leaves in the middle and late summer months, up until leaf drop in the fall. When this late-summer fungal funk appears, so too do customers begin appearing at retail garden centers, carrying leaves in

Gardeners don’t want to see leaves with brown or black spots, which signify a fungal attack. For healthy hydrangeas, read on. 60 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 9

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up any of last year’s fallen hydrangea leaves. Second, get rid of any wood mulch from previous years under the canopies of your hydrangea leaves. I tend to think wood mulch is a bad idea for all plants, preferring pine needles, but it’s especially bad for plants like hydrangeas that are prone to fungal problems, being a perfect medium to overwinter fungal spores and hold moisture excessively at levels that are conducive to fungal problems. Third, sprinkle a quarter cup of soil sulfur under each plant. This will serve two purposes. It will indirectly acidify the soil, and all hydrangeas prefer an acidic soil. Since all organic matter tends to revert to neutral over time, regular efforts need to be made to lower the pH of your soil. Hydrangeas absorb nutrients better when the soil is acidic and are healthier plants, better able to fight off pathogens of all kinds. But, soil sulfur also acts as a sporicide, a sort of birth control for fungi, reducing the degree to which fungal spores are likely to evolve into fungal bodies on the leaves of plants. Fourth, put down a thick layer of pine straw. Hydrangea leaves are re-infected as they first begin to emerge in the spring. The powerful showers in March and April pound into the soil and ricochet the fungal spores up onto the new and tender leaves. Putting down a thick layer of pine straw creates a barrier between the soil and the new leaves, without the downsides of wood mulch. Finally, make sure their other nutritional needs are being met by following a reasonable fertilization program, whether it be organic or synthetic. There are many approaches to providing plants with needed nutrients, but a simple one, if you don’t already have one, is 1/4 cup time-release 12-6-6 fertilizer in the spring and a 1/4 cup time-release 6-12-12 fertilizer in the fall, sprinkled under the canopies of the plants. When a plant’s basic nutritional needs are being met, it will be more resistant to pathogens of all kinds. So, follow these instructions for spotfree, healthy leaves that will complement the beautiful summer hydrangea blooms. And, if you don’t have any hydrangeas, now is a great time to plant them! John A. Jennings is an ISA Certified Arborist, and manager of horticulture for Palladio Garden in Midtown Memphis.

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Aldo’s Pizza Pies Downtown

Aldo’s Pizza Pies Midtown

100 S. Main Street • 901.5.777.PIE • aldospizzapies.com • @aldospizzapies

Another Broken Egg Café at Highland

752 S. Cooper Ave. • 901.725.PIES • aldospizzapies.com • @aldospizzapies

Another Broken Egg Café at Park

65 South Highland Street • 901.623.7122 • anotherbrokenegg.com

6063 Park Avenue • 901.729.7020 • anotherbrokenegg.com

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Babalu Tapas & Tacos

The Bar-B-Q Shop

Babalu Tapas & Tacos features scratch-made, Latin-inspired dishes with a touch of Southern flair. Sample and share small plates from their signature guacamole (prepared tableside) to Creole Shrimp & Grits. At Babalu, tacos reign with more than 10 flavors that can be mixed and matched and are only $3 during social hours, Monday through Friday (3 p.m. to 6 p.m.). Or stop in on Taco Tuesday, when all tacos are $2 each. Both Babalu locations feature unique patio dining with stools at the outside bar and plenty of shaded seating. Sip on house-made seasonal sangria or our award-winning Baba Rita®.

Voted #1 BBQ restaurant in America for ribs by The Food Network. Now 30 years in the Midtown area, west of Overton Square on Madison Avenue, The Bar-B-Q Shop has been using recipes made from scratch that are over 60 years old. Originators of BBQ Spaghetti & The Texas Toast BBQ Sandwich, we serve real pit barbecue cooked daily with a blend of our Dancing Pigs Bar-B-Q Sauce and Dry Seasoning, also sold in Kroger. Featured on USAToday.com, Andrew Zimmern of The Travel Channel, & regularly in Southern Living. Private dining and bulk orders available.

Bhan Thai

Broadway Pizza

Overton Square: 2115 Madison Ave Memphis East: 6450 Poplar Ave • eatbabalu.com

1324 Peabody Avenue • 901.272.1538 • bhanthairestaurant.com Owner Molly Smith along with Chef Sorrasit “Alex” Sittranont offers original Thai cuisine in an elegant, friendly environment both inside and outdoors. Our newly expanded patio is sure to capture your presence! Longtime favorites are pad Thai, tiger cry, crispy duck, tuna and many more. Voted Best Thai 2003-2015. Lunch Tuesday-Friday 11 a.m.–2:30 p.m. and dinner Tuesday–Friday beginning at 5 p.m. Closed Monday.

1782 Madison Avenue • 901.272.1277 • dancingpigs.com

2581 Broad Avenue Ave • 901.454.7930 & 629 South Mendenhall •• 901.207.1546 901.207.1546 • 901.454.7930 & 629 S. Mendenhall Old-fashioned pizza house with a lovely comfortable atmosphere where the Old-fashioned pizza house with a lovely comfortable atmosphere where the staff has you feeling like you are in their pizza home. Delicious hot pizzas staff has you feeling like you are in their pizza home. Delicious hot pizzas overflowing with toppings of your choice. Appetizers, salads, spaghetti, overflowing with toppings of your choice. Appetizers, salads, spaghetti, catfish, cheeseburgers, Philly cheese steaks, Broadway whole wings, daily catfish, cheeseburgers, steaks, Broadway whole wings, daily plate lunch specials, andPhilly more.cheese Located in Memphis’ Broad St. Arts District plate lunch specials, and save for cakes made daily. Located and look out, Memphis... NOWroom a second location at in-house 629 South Mendenhall in Memphis’ Broad St.Pizza Arts District andCall-in look out, Memphis... NOW a second at Poplar. Legendary since 1977. orders are welcomed! location at 629 South Mendenhall at Poplar. Legendary Pizza since 1977. Call-in orders are welcomed!

Celtic Crossing

Central BBQ

Celtic Crossing is an authentic Irish pub located in the heart of Midtown’s beloved Cooper-Young. Custom art and imported furniture from Ireland create a cozy neighborhood hangout where you’ll always find good food, cold Guinness, and lively conversation. There’s always something going on at Celtic Crossing. Open 7 days a week, we offer lunch and dinner, featuring daily specials. We also offer brunch Saturday and Sunday, with live EPL Soccer matches, Celtic music and drink specials. Don’t miss a thing; check us out on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.

Voted Best BBQ sandwich, ribs, and food truck by Memphis magazine. Our beef brisket, BBQ turkey, and smoked hot wings continue to be a Memphis treasure. With seating for up to 200 folks, there is plenty of room for all your family and friends. Our catering team can bring you the best Central BBQ has to offer to any location. Catering business luncheons, private parties, and weddings. Visit us at our 4 locations: East, 6201 Poplar, 901.417.7962; Downtown, 147 E. Butler, 901.672.7760; Midtown, 2249 Central Ave., 901.272.9377; and Summer, 4375 Summer Ave., 901.767.4672.

903 S. Cooper St. • 901.274.5151 • celticcrossingmemphis.com

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cbqmemphis.com

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Cheffie’s Cafe

483 High Point Terrace • 956 E. Winchester Blvd • cheffies.com

Voted best new restaurant in 2013, Best Salads by Yelp reviewers in 2016, and the “People Love Us on Yelp” award in 2017. At Cheffie’s Cafe, we invite you to “Be the Chef.” From our long list of fresh produce, top quality meats, tasty cheeses, house made dressings, and delicious toppings, you can design your own sandwich or salad (chopped or tossed), so your Cheffie’s Cafe order is made fresh — just the way you want it. And we cater, too. We have locations in East Memphis, in High Point Terrace, steps from the Greenline, open 11 a.m.-9 p.m. (serves Gelato) and in Collierville, in Schilling Farms, open 7 a.m.-9 p.m. (breakfast and full coffee service).

Ciao Bella

565 Erin Drive • 901.205.2500 • ciaobellamemphis.com Located in the heart of East Memphis, Ciao Bella Italian Grill serves authentic Italian cuisine and hand-tossed gourmet pizzas. We offer a full bar with an extensive wine list, beautiful patio, and private party facilities with full visual equipment. Dine in or carry out. Catering available. Happy Hour Sunday 4-7 p.m., Monday-Thursday 11-7p.m. Open for dinner 7 days a week. Lunch served weekdays. PGF Certified.

Medallion Inn /Executive U of M Holiday Inn- Holiday & Fogelman 3700 Central Avenue • 901.678.8200 Conference Center at U of M

Huey’s

Select this award-winning hotel for your catering needs. Located in the 901.678.2021 • feccsales@memphis.edu heart of Memphis, we’re first in banquets up to 1,000 people and receptions Select this unique one-of-a-kind hotel for reigns your next catering event. Located up to 1,400. Our European-trained chef over a 12,000-square-foot in the heart we’re first in three banquets up to 1,000 ballroom withofaMemphis, permanent stage and wood-inlay dancepeople floors.and Ice receptions up to 1,400. Ourand highly trained sales is eager to among assist. Our carvings, wedding cakes, hand-made horsteam d’oeuvres are our 12,000-square-foot has Sunday a permanent stage and three wood-inlay specialties. Also try ballroom our fabulous brunch. dance floors. Adjacent to the Fogelman Executive Conference Center with catering space for 10-120.

Huey’s is celebrating over 49 years of “Blues, Brews, and Burgers” and has been voted Best Burger for 35 consecutive years by the readers of Memphis magazine! Enjoy live music on Sundays, sip on a local brew, shoot frill picks in the ceiling and write on the graffiti wall. The menu offers 14 different burger choices, a variety of delicious sandwiches ranging from a grilled tuna fish sandwich to a reuben, awesome salads and yummy homemade soups. Enjoy one of the World Famous Huey Burgers at one of our nine convenient locations. For directions and hours of operations, please visit hueyburger.com.

Lafayette’s Music Room

Marlowe’s Ribs & Restaurant

Located in Overton Square, the historic Lafayette’s Music Room offers a variety of Southern-inspired dishes for lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch. With offerings such as po-boys, sliders, shrimp and grits, wood-fired pizzas, and made-from-scratch desserts, Lafayette’s is a staple for all to enjoy great food, good local conversation, and the best live music in town.

Family-owned and operated since 1973, Marlowe’s is the longtime gathering place for Elvis fans. Known for Pink Cadillac limo rides featuring Elvis memorabilia on the walls and tables. Fully stocked gift shop, spectacular barbecue featured on Food Network, traditional American fare, Southern hospitality, and a full bar. Dine in or take out, plus delivery to area hotels. One mile south of Graceland. Open Noon-3 a.m. daily.

2119 Madison Ave • 901.207.5097 • lafayettes.com

hueyburger.com

4381 Elvis Presley Blvd. • 901.332.4159 • marlowesmemphis.com

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Maximos On Broad

Memphis Pizza Cafe

Taste the lively fusion cuisine and enjoy the quaint inviting feeling of Maximo’s on Broad tapas restaurant and wine bar, in the Arts District of Broad Avenue. Open Wednesday-Saturday for dinner (5-10 p.m.) and Sunday brunch (10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.). Join us for our $3 happy hour from 5-7 p.m. and Wine Wednesdays for half-price bottles of wine. Reservations are recommended.

memphispizzacafe.com memphispizzacafe.com Our crust is prepared one way — thin and crisp. Choose one of our specialty Our crust is prepared thinextensive and crisp.ingredients Choose one of and our specialty pizzas or create your one own way from—our list, see why pizzas or create your own from our extensive ingredients list, and see why we’ve been voted “Best Pizza” 20 years in a row. Best pizza. Coolest we’ve been “BestOverton Pizza” Square 24 years a row. Best -pizza. Coolest workers. Fivevoted locations: at in 2087 Madison 901.726.5343, workers. Four locations: Overton at 2087 Madison — 901.726.5343, East Memphis at 5061 Park Ave. Square - 901.684.1306, Germantown at 7604 W. East Memphis at 5061 ParkSouthaven Ave. — 901.684.1306, Germantown at 7604and W. Farmington - 901.753.2218, at 5627 Getwell - 662.536.1364, Farmingtonat —797 901.753.2218, Collierville at 797 W. Poplar — 901.861.7800. Collierville W. Poplar -and 901.861.7800

Molly’s La Casita

Mulan Asian Bistro

2006 Madison Ave • 901.726.1873 • mollyslacasita.com

www.mulaneast.net or www.mulanbistro.net

Molly’s La Casita has been voted one of the Best Mexican restaurants and Best Margarita for over 36 years. Our menu has grown to include pork fajitas and bbq-pork tacos. The fun menu includes enchiladas, fajitas, burritos, vegetarian meals, sandwiches, shrimp tacos, grilled red snapper tacos and a pleasing children’s menu. Save room for dessert and be sure not to miss out on our World Famous Molly’s Margaritas! Open Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; and Sunday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Happy hour is 3 p.m.-8 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Saturday; and Margarita Monday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.

Mulan Asian Bistro has been rated No. 1 in Memphis for over 5 years and is the only Chinese restaurant serving authentic Szechuan Cuisine! Now serving you from three locations: Midtown, East Memphis, and Collierville/Germantown area. Let us cater your family gathering, wedding or anniversary party. We have private dining rooms available at our Midtown and East Memphis locations. We deliver up to 10 miles and are the only restaurant that delivers sushi in Memphis! Located at 2149 Young Ave. in Memphis, 901.347.3965; 4698 Spottswood Ave. in Memphis, 901.609.8680 and 2059 Houston Levee in Collierville, 901.850.5288. Order online www.mulaneast.net or www.mulanbistro.net!

Next Door American Eatery

Park + Cherry

Next Door is a great place to hang out, grab some good food and catch up with neighborhood friends and family. An urban-casual American Eatery with a fun urban vibe, Next Door’s recipes are made using wholesome, unprocessed food without any of that funny stuff, sourced from suppliers they know and trust. Some favorites are the Roasted Veggie Bowl, Next Door 50/50 Burger and Roasted Veggie Tacos. Next Door also offers online ordering pickup with their easy to-go app!

Park + Cherry is a casual-dining restaurant located inside the Dixon Gallery and Gardens. The café will offer a new menu in 2019 by Memphis’ born-andraised private chef, Phillip Dewayne. Visitors can anticipate a range of flavorful items and new opportunities to dine at the Dixon. Menus change throughout the year but always feature fresh and seasonal options. Park + Cherry offers indoor dining and outdoor dining surrounded by beautiful gardens when the weather is just right.

2617 Broad Ave. • 901.452.1111 • maximosonbroad.com

Crosstown Concourse 1350 Concourse Ave. • nextdooreatery.com

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4339 Park Ave • 901.761.5250 • dixon.org/dine--shop

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Pearl’s Oyster House

R.P. Tracks

299 S. Main St. • 901.522.9070 & 8106 Cordova Center Dr. • 901.425.4797

3547 Walker Avenue • 901.327.1471 • rptracks.com

Over 40,000 oysters sold monthly. Pearl’s Oyster House is one of Memphis’ favorite spots for great seafood, steaks, chicken and pasta. Pearl’s is the perfect place for business luncheons, private parties and casual evening dining. Located in the historic South Main Arts District, Pearl’s charm is sure to please everyone with free parking and easy access to FedEx Forum and the Orpheum. Open Sunday from 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Monday-Thursday from 11 a.m.-10 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m.-11 p.m.

R.P. Tracks has been serving the University of Memphis area since 1987. It is home to the World Famous BBQ Tofu Nachos, in addition to various other uniquely “Tracks” dishes. We have a full bar and a large beer selection including our favorite local beers on tap. We also offer brunch every Saturday and Sunday. R.P. Tracks is open Monday through Saturday 11 a.m.3 a.m. and Sunday 10 a.m.-3 a.m. Dine-in or carry-out. Please visit our website to see our full menu.

Red Koi Japanese Cuisine

Regina’s Cajun Kitchen

redkoimemphis.com

60 Main Street • 901.730.0384 • reginascajunkitchen.com

Locally owned Red Koi serves amazing Japanese cuisine. Awesome sushi, hibachi, sashimi and nigiri. Daily lunch specials, early bird specials and Happy Hour Monday through Thursday with a full bar. Impress your clients, friends and family in a delightful contemporary atmosphere with delicious Japanese classics. Open 7 days a week. Two locations: 5847 Poplar Ave. #101, Memphis, TN 38119, 901.767.3456; 2946 Kate Hyde Blvd. #102, Bartlett, TN 38133, 901.249.4694.

Located in the heart of downtown, Regina’s is a place where you can enjoy down home New Orleans flavors, music, and seafood. We specialize in seafood bags, gumbo, and our famous fried pickles. All you can eat seafood available every day for $40 and free open mic every Saturday, 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. Hours of operation: Tuesday-Wednesday: 8 a.m. to 7 p.m.; ThursdaySaturday: 8 a.m. to 10 p.m.; and Sunday Brunch: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Rendezvous

River Oaks Restaurant

The Vergos family has been cooking up food in a downtown Memphis alley since 1948. The pork ribs are legendary, as are the waiters and the vintage Memphis décor. Winner of numerous awards in Southern Living and other publications, the menu offers barbecued ribs, pork shoulder, beef brisket, cheese plates, barbecue nachos, Greek salads, local beers and wine. We ship our ribs overnight, too! Call about private parties for lunch and dinner. Open for dinner, Tuesday-Saturday. Lunch, Friday-Saturday only. Closed Sunday and Monday. Check out our new catering menu online today!

River Oaks is a modern French-American bistro where the traditions of French cuisine meet the flavors of the American market with a menu reflecting the changing seasons and a focus on the simplicity of fine ingredients. Led by Master Chef José Gutierrez, our team takes pride in preparing delicious food, providing impeccable service and creating a dining experience for each guest that is one of enjoyment, comfort and satisfaction. Enjoy an exquisite glass of wine paired perfectly with a culinary creation or organize your next event with our catering director.

52 South Second Street • 901.523.2746 • 888.HOGSFLY • hogsfly.com

5871 Poplar Avenue • 901.683.9305 • riveroaksrestaurant.com

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special advertising section

South of Beale

361 South Main Street • 901.526.0388 • southofbeale.com Located in the South Main Arts District, South of Beale is Memphis’ first gastropub. Our mission is to help our adventurous guests discover bold and unique flavors in food and drink. Adventure is one bite and sip away! Reserve your table now at southofbeale.com. Hours of operations: Monday - Saturday 11 a.m. to midnight and Sunday: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Swanky’s Taco Shop

4770 Poplar • 6641 Poplar Ave. • swankystacoshop.com In 2005, Swanky’s Taco Shop was developed in Memphis on an idea to combine the atmosphere, service, and fresh food of full-service dining with the pricing and convenience of fast-casual dining. And since burritos and tacos are just not the same without a margarita or a beer, Swanky’s boasts a full bar to offer a broad range of drink options. At Swanky’s, you can build your own taco, burrito, or bowl or order from the many grill items, including enchiladas, nachos, fajitas, and quesadillas. And we cater, too. Come see us at our locations in Germantown (fast casual all day) and East Memphis (table service after 4 p.m.).

Tops Bar-B-Q

Wang’s Mandarin House / East Tapas & Drinks

Tops Bar-B-Q Bar-B-Q Inc. Inc. is is Memphis’ Memphis’ oldest oldest and and only only home-owned home-owned chain chain of of 15 15 Tops barbecue restaurants, restaurants, serving serving real real Memphis Memphis pit pit barbecue barbecue since since 1952. 1952. Now Now barbecue serving brisket brisket and and ribs. ribs. Slowly Slowly cooking cooking pork pork shoulders shoulders the the old-fashioned old-fashioned serving way over real hardwood charcoal and real hickory wood imparts that that way over real hardwood charcoal and real hickory wood imparts characteristic moist, smoky flavor that has distinguished our products for characteristic moist, smoky flavor that has distinguished our products for over half a century. Coming August 2015: We’re relocating our Southaven over half a century. location to 313 Stateline Road. General offices: 5720 Mt. Moriah Road, 901.363.4007.

Come to Wang’s to enjoy fine traditional and contemporary Chinese Cuisine, voted Memphis best since 1986. Our services include a lunch buffet, dinein, take-out, free deliveries, and catering. We also have a private room for business meetings and/or parties. Or go next door to East Tapas and Drinks which offers unique small plates prepared with an Asian twist, a long list of libations like no other, and live music on selected evenings. East is the place to wind down and relax after a long day of work.

topsbarbq.com

6065 Park Ave • 901.685.9264 • wangsmemphis.com • east-tapas.com

Zaka Bowl

575 Erin Drive • 901.509.3105 • zakabowl.com

Clean Food Fast. We help our active guests feel fit, energized, and inspired by serving clean food fast. We’re all about your health and your energy. Our delicious bowls are designed to boost your energy and help fuel your lifestyle. Visit us or order online at zakabowl.com. Our hours of operation are Monday-Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

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To advertise in the August 2019 Scene Dining please contact Margie Neal at: 901.521.9000 or margie@memphismagazine.com.

Announcing the 2nd annual

SATURDAY

MARCH 23RD

10am-1

FREE pm ADMISSION

MEMPHIS BOTANIC GARDEN 750 CHERRY ROAD Meet the staff and leadership of area camps and learn all about your child's spring, summer, and fall enrichment options. Representatives from day camps, sports camps, overnight camps, enrichment camps, educational camps and more will be on hand! Check out memphisparentcampexpo.com for more information, and be sure to follow Memphis Parent on your favorite social channel for updates!

the

MEMPHIS DINING guide

Tidbits: At Mahogany Memphis, Chef Christopher Hudson elevates home cooking. by pamela denney

he oxtails and three-cheese grits at Mahogany Memphis — Chef Christopher Hudson’s new hotspot in Chickasaw Oaks Village — is indeed a forever friend. The succulent meat is leaner than most and fragrant with global seasonings layered into the sear (cinnamon, fenugreek, paprika, hot African chiles) and the aromatics (shallot, ginger, whole garlic, and Poblano peppers, to name a few). There’s an essence of mesquite smoke, too. “We cook it off with some brown stock and braise it overnight for 10 or 12 hours,” Hudson explains. “In the morning, we put the oxtails in the smoker for two or three hours, and by 11, they are ready for lunch.” Served in an asymmetrical bowl, Hudson’s oxtails and grits capture the spirit of Mahogany’s menu and the many influences that direct the chef’s cooking. Certainly, Creole and Southern food play a part with dishes

like Memphis fried chicken or collards with smoked turkey and a slice of hot water cornbread seared on the griddle. But along with traditional roots, Hudson’s food is contemporary with a cacophony of ethnic flavors from Asia, Ethiopia, West Africa, and the Middle East. Lighter options abound, as well: kale salad, daily soups, and a pan-seared fish of the day. Consider, also, the menu’s salmon croquettes. Hudson — trained at the famed Johnson & Wales culinary school — veers French, poaching the salmon and binding the patties with mashed potatoes, mustard, and spices. For breading, Hudson uses panko instead of cornmeal: “I also use green onion mayo, so you get the taste of onions without the crunch.” Customers who remember the restaurant’s predecessors (the Farmer, Just for Lunch, and Ruby Tuesday back in the day) will be surprised by Mahogany’s extensive renovation

that includes a lovely upstairs space for special events. Hudson, who grew up nearby, calls the restaurant his “full circle.” He started cooking as a youngster, and his grandmother, Ruby Matthews, owned a restaurant in Binghampton near Scott Street and Broad. “I have memories of her mashing potatoes with the steam all around her face,” he says. “She was such a hard worker, and it all stuck with me.” These days, Hudson’s parents, Pamela and Hayward Hudson, eat at the restaurant regularly, and his mother doesn’t hesitate to critique. On a recent Sunday, she tried Hudson’s peach cobbler, a luscious slice of dessert seasoned with nutmeg, ginger, and bourbon. “She said add a little more cinnamon,” Hudson recalls. “So we did.”

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JUSTIN FOX BURKS

“We want to appeal to the mall’s regular clientele, to draw in a more urban side of things, and to add a fresh approach, as well,” says Chef Christopher Hudson, pictured above, about the Mahogany Memphis menu. Some of the restaurant’s popular dishes include sweet and spicy pork belly plated with collards, fried chicken and wafﬂes, craft cocktails like the Black Maria, oxtails and Grit Girl grits made with smoked cheddar, Jack cheese, and cream cheese, and for dessert, chocolate pecan pie.

Mahogany Memphis serves lunch, dinner, and Sunday brunch. 3092 Poplar Ave., Suite 11 (901-623-7977) $-$$

We celebrate our city’s community table and the people who grow, cook, and eat the best Memphis food at M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M / F O O D - D I N I N G

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A Curated Guide to Eating Out

emphis magazine offers this curated restaurant listing as a service to its readers. Broken down alphabetically by neighborhoods, this directory does not list every restaurant in town. It does, however, include the magazine’s “Top 50” choices of must-try restaurants in Memphis, a DINING SYMBOLS group that is updated every August. Establishments open B — breakfast less than a year are not eligible for “Top 50” but are noted as L — lunch “New.” This guide also includes a representative sampling D — dinner of other Bluff City eating establishments. No fast-food SB — Sunday brunch facilities or cafeterias are listed, nor have we included WB — weekend brunch establishments that rely heavily on take-out business. X— wheelchair accessible Restaurants are included regardless of whether they ad MRA — member, Memphis vertise in Memphis magazine; those that operate in multi Restaurant Association ple locations are listed under the neighborhood of their $ — under $15 per person without drinks or desserts original location. This guide is updated regularly, but we $$ — under $25 recommend that you call ahead to check on hours, prices, $$$ — $26-$50 and other details. Suggestions from readers are welcome; $$$$ — over $50 please contact us at dining@memphismagazine.com.

CENTER CITY 117 PRIME—Restaurateurs Craig Blondis and Roger Sapp teamed up with Chef Ryan Trimm to recreate the traditional American steakhouse. Serving oysters on the half shell and a variety of surf and turf options. 117 Union. 433-9851. L, D, WB, X, $-$$$ 5 SPOT—Tucked behind Earnestine & Hazel’s, features Memphis barbecue, Italian, and Creole-inspired dishes, such as polenta incaciata, barbecue spaghetti, and a fried chicken plate with collards, slaw, and skillet cornbread. 531 S. Main. 523-9754. D, X, $-$$ ALDO’S PIZZA PIES—Serving gourmet pizzas — including Mr. T Rex — salads, and more. Also 30 beers, bottled or on tap. 100 S. Main. 577-7743; 752 S. Cooper. 725-7437. L, D, X, $-$$ THE ARCADE—Possibly Memphis’ oldest cafe. Specialties include sweet potato pancakes, a fried peanut butter and banana sandwich, and breakfast served all day. 540 S. Main. 526-5757. B, L, D (Thurs.-Sat.), X, MRA, $ AUTOMATIC SLIM’S—Longtime downtown favorite specializes in contemporary American cuisine emphasizing local ingredients; also extensive martini list. 83 S. Second. 525-7948. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ BARDOG TAVERN—Classic American grill with Italian influence, Bardog offers pasta specialties such as Grandma’s NJ Meatballs, as well as salads, sliders, sandwiches, and daily specials. 73 Monroe. 275-8752. B (Mon.-Fri.), L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ BEDROCK EATS & SWEETS—Memphis’ only Paleocentric restaurant offering such dishes as pot roast, waffles, enchiladas, chicken salad, omelets, and more. Closed for dinner Sun. 327 S. Main. 409-6433. B, L, D, X, $-$$ BELLE TAVERN—Serving elevated bar food, including a butcher board with a variety of meats and cheeses, as well as daily specials. 117 Barboro Alley. 249-6580. L (Sun.), D, MRA, $ BLEU—This eclectic restaurant features American food with global influences and local ingredients. Among the specialties are a 14-oz. bone-in rib-eye and several seafood dishes. 221 S. Third, in the Westin Memphis Beale St. Hotel. 334-5950. B, L, D, WB, X, MRA, $$-$$$ BLUEFIN RESTAURANT & SUSHI LOUNGE— Serves Japanese fusion cuisine featuring seafood and steak, with seasonally changing menu; also, a sushi bar and flatbread pizza. 135 S. Main. 528-1010. L, D, X, $-$$ BRASS DOOR IRISH PUB—Irish and New-American cuisine includes such entrees as fish and chips, burgers, shepherd’s pie, all-day Irish breakfast, and more. 152 Madison. 572-1813. L, D, SB, $-$$ CAFE KEOUGH—European-style cafe serving quiche, paninis, salads, and more. 12 S. Main. 509-2469. B, L, D, X, $ CAPRICCIO GRILL ITALIAN STEAKHOUSE—Offers prime steaks, fresh seafood (lobster tails, grouper, mahi mahi),

pasta, and several northern Italian specialties. 149 Union, The Peabody. 529-4199. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$$ CAROLINA WATERSHED—This indoor/outdoor eatery, set around silos, features reimagined down-home classics, including fried green tomatoes with smoked catfish, a buttermilk fried chicken sandwich, burgers, and more. Closed Mon.-Thurs. 141 E. Carolina. 321-5553. L, D, WB, $-$$ CATHERINE & MARY’S—A variety of pastas, grilled quail, pâté, razor clams, and monkfish are among the dishes served at this Italian restaurant in the Chisca. 272 S. Main. 254-8600. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ CHEZ PHILIPPE—Classical/contemporary French cuisine presented in a luxurious atmosphere with a seasonal menu focused on local/regional cuisine. The crown jewel of The Peabody for 35 years. Afternoon tea served Wed.-Sat., 1-3:30 p.m. (reservations required). Closed Sun.Tues. The Peabody, 149 Union. 529-4188. D, X, MRA, $$$$ COZY CORNER—Serving up ribs, pork sandwiches, chicken, spaghetti, and more; also homemade banana pudding. Closed Sun.-Mon. 745 N. Parkway and Manassas. 527-9158. L, D, $ DIRTY CROW INN—Serving elevated bar food, including poutine fries, fried catfish, and the Chicken Debris, a sandwich with smoked chicken, melted cheddar, and gravy. 855 Kentucky. 207-5111. L, D, MRA, $ EVELYN & OLIVE—Jamaican/Southern fusion cuisine includes such dishes as Kingston stew fish, Rasta Pasta, and jerk rib-eye. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun.-Mon. 630 Madison. 748-5422. L, D, X, $ FAM—Casual Asian restaurant serves sushi rice bowls, noodle bowls, sushi rolls, and spring rolls. Closed Sun. 149 Madison. 701-6666. L, D, X, $ FELICIA SUZANNE’S—Southern cuisine with low-country, Creole, and Delta influences, using regional fresh seafood, local beef, and locally grown foods. Entrees include shrimp and grits. Closed Sun. and Mon. A downtown staple at Brinkley Plaza, 80 Monroe, Suite L1. 523-0877. L (Fri. only), D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ FERRARO’S PIZZERIA & PUB—Rigatoni and tortellini are among the pasta entrees here, along with pizzas (whole or by the slice) with a variety of toppings. 111 Jackson. 522-2033. L, D, X, $ FLIGHT RESTAURANT & WINE BAR— Serves steaks and seafood, along with such specialties as bison ribeye and Muscovy duck, all matched with appropriate wines. 39 S. Main. 521-8005. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ FLYING FISH—Serves up fried and grilled versions of shrimp, crab, oysters, fish tacos, and catfish; also chicken and burgers. 105 S. Second. 522-8228. L, D, X, $-$$ THE GRAY CANARY—The sixth restaurant from chefs Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman, offering small plates and entrees cooked on an open flame. Oysters, octopus, and hearty steaks are among the menu options at this eatery in Old Dominick Distillery. Closed Mon. 301 S. Front. 466-6324. D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$.

(This guide, compiled by our editors, includes editorial picks and advertisers.)

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GRECIAN GOURMET TAVERNA—Serves traditional favorites like spanakopita, pastitso, moussaka, and hand-rolled dolmathes, as well as lamb sliders and pita nachos. Closed Mon. 412 S. Main. 249-6626. L, D, X, $ GUS’S WORLD FAMOUS FRIED CHICKEN—Serves chicken with signature spicy batter, along with homemade beans, slaw, and pies. 310 S. Front. 527-4877; 215 S. Center St. (Collierville). 853-6005; 2965 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 373-9111; 730 S. Mendenhall. 767-2323; 505 Highway 70 W., Mason, TN. 901-2942028. L, D, X, MRA, $ HAPPY MEXICAN—Serves quesadillas, burritos, chimichangas, vegetable and seafood dishes, and more. 385 S. Second. 529-9991; 6080 Primacy Pkwy. 683-0000; 7935 Winchester. 751-5353. L, D, X, $ HUEY’S—This family friendly restaurant offers 13 different burgers, a variety of sandwiches and delicious soups and salads. 1927 Madison. 726-4372; 1771 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 754-3885; 77 S. Second. 5272700; 2130 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-4455; 7090 Malco Blvd. (Southaven). 662-349-7097; 7825 Winchester. 624-8911; 4872 Poplar. 682-7729; 7677 Farmington Blvd. (Germantown). 3183030; 8570 Highway 51 N. (Millington). 873-5025. L, D, X, MRA, $ HU. ROOF—Rooftop cocktail bar with superb city views serves toasts with a variety of toppings including beef tartare with cured egg, cognac, and capers or riced cauliflower with yellow curry, currants, and almonds. Also salads, fish tacos, and boiled peanut hummus. L, D, $ ITTA BENA—Southern and Cajun-American cuisine served here; specialties are duck and waffles and shrimp and grits, along with steaks, chops, seafood, and pasta. 145 Beale St. 578-3031. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$  KOOKY CANUCK—Offers prime rib, catfish, and burgers, including the 4-lb. “Kookamonga”; also late-night menu. 87 S. Second. 578-9800; 1250 N. Germantown Pkwy. 1-800-2453 L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$ KREWE OF DEJAVU—Serves Creole, soul, and vegetarian cuisine, including po-boys, jambalaya, and shrimp and grits. Closed Sun. 936 Florida. 947-1003. L, D, X, $-$$ THE LITTLE TEA SHOP—Downtown institution serves up Southern comfort cooking, including meatloaf and such veggies as turnip greens, yams, okra, and tomatoes. Closed Sat.-Sun. 69 Monroe. 525-6000, L, X, $ LOCAL—Entrees with a focus on locally sourced products include lobster mac-and-cheese and ribeye patty melt; menu differs by location. 95 S. Main. 473-9573; 2126 Madison. 7251845. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ LOFLIN YARD—Beer garden and restaurant serves vegetarian fare and smoked-meat dishes, including beef brisket and pork tenderloin, cooked on a custom-made grill. Closed Mon.-Tues. 7 W. Carolina. 249-3046. L (Sat. and Sun.), D, MRA, $-$$ THE LOOKOUT AT THE PYRAMID—Serves seafood and Southern fare, including cornmeal-fried oysters, sweet tea brined chicken, and elk chops. 1 Bass Pro Dr. 620-4600/2918200. L, D, X $-$$$ LUNA RESTAURANT & LOUNGE—Serving a limited menu of breakfast and lunch items. Dinner entrees include Citrus Glaze Salmon and Cajun Stuffed Chicken. 179 Madison (Hotel Napoleon). 526-0002. B, D (Mon.-Sat.), X, $-$$$  MACIEL’S—Entrees include tortas, fried taco plates, quesadillas, chorizo and pastor soft tacos, salads, and more. Downtown closed Sun. Bodega closed Wed. 45 S. Main. 526-0037; 525 S. Highland. 504-4584. L, D, SB (Highland), X, MRA, $ THE MAJESTIC GRILLE—Housed in a former silent-picture house, features aged steaks, fresh seafood, and such specialties as roasted chicken and grilled pork tenderloin; offers a pre-theatre menu and classic cocktails. Well-stocked bar. 145 S. Main. 522-8555. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ McEWEN’S ON MONROE—Southern/ American cuisine with international flavors; specialties include steak and seafood, sweet potato-crusted catfish with macaroni and cheese, and more. Closed Sun., Monroe location. 120 Monroe. 527-7085; 1110 Van Buren (Oxford). 662-234-7003. L, D, SB (Oxford only), X, MRA, $$-$$$ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 9 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 71

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in 1977

STEAK ACCLAIMED EVER SINCE MEMPHIS

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Enjoy MEMphis’ Most RoMantic REstauRant — Down by thE RivER. Join Us!

Serving BreakfaSt, Lunch, Dinner 365 DayS a year & WeekenD Brunch 50 Harbor Town Square • 901-260-3300 • paulettes.net

MESQUITE CHOP HOUSE—The focus here is on steaks, including prime fillet, rib eyes, and prime-aged New York strip; also, some seafood options. 5960 Getwell (Southaven). 662-8902467; 88 Union. 527-5337; 3165 Forest Hill-Irene (Germantown). 249-5661. D, SB (Germantown), X, $$-$$$ MOLLIE FONTAINE LOUNGE—Specializes in tapas (small plates) featuring global cuisine. Closed Sun.-Tues. 679 Adams Ave. 524-1886. D, X, MRA, $ THE NINE THAI & SUSHI—Serving authentic Thai dishes, including curries, as well as a variety of sushi rolls. Closed for lunch Sat. and Sun. 121 Union. 208-8347. L, D, X, $-$$ PAULETTE’S—Presents fine dining with a Continental flair, including such entrees as filet Paulette with butter cream sauce and crabmeat and spinach crepes; also changing daily specials and great views. River Inn. 50 Harbor Town Square. 260-3300. B, L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ PEARL’S OYSTER HOUSE—Downtown eatery serving seafood, including oysters, crawfish, and stuffed butterfly shrimp, as well as beef, chicken, and pasta dishes. 299 S. Main. 522-9070; 8106 Cordova Center Dr. (Cordova). 425-4797. L, D, SB, X, $-$$$ PONTOTOC—Upscale restaurant and jazz bar serves such starters as chicharone nachos and smoked trout deviled eggs; entrees include Mississippi pot roast with jalapeno cornbread and red fish with Israeli couscous. 314 S. Main. 207-7576. D, WB, X, $-$$ REGINA’S—New Orleans-inspired eatery offering po boys, Cajun nachos topped with crawfish tails, catfish platters, oysters, and more. Closed Mon. 60 N. Main. 730-0384. B, L, D, SB, X, $-$$ RENDEZVOUS, CHARLES VERGOS’—Menu items include barbecued ribs, cheese plates, skillet shrimp, red beans and rice, and Greek salads. Closed Sun.-Mon. 52 S. Second. 523-2746. L (Fri.-Sat.), D, X, $-$$ RIZZO’S DINER—Chorizo meatloaf, lobster pronto puff, and lamb belly tacos are menu items at this upscale diner. Michael Patrick among the city’s best chefs. 492 S. Main. 304-6985. L (Fri.-Sat.), D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ SABOR CARIBE—Serving up “Caribbean flavors” with dishes from Colombia, Venezuela, Puerto Rico, and Cuba. Closed Sunday. 662 Madison. 949-8100. L, D, X, $ SLEEP OUT LOUIES—Oyster bar with such specialties as char-grilled Roquefort oysters and gulf oysters on the half shell with Prosecco mignonette; also serves flatbread pizzas and a variety of sandwiches. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 111. 707-7180. L, D, X, $ SOUTH MAIN MARKET—Food Hall featuring a variety of vendors serving everything from bagels and beer to comfort food and healthy cuisine. 409 S. Main. 341-3838. $-$$ SOUTH MAIN SUSHI & GRILL—Serving sushi, nigiri, and more. 520 S. Main. 249-2194. L, D, X, $ SPINDINI—Italian fusion cuisine with such entrees as woodfired pizzas, gorgonzola stuffed filet, and fresh seafood; large domestic whiskey selection. 383 S. Main. 578-2767. D, X, $$-$$$ SUNRISE MEMPHIS—From owners of Sweet Grass and Central BBQ. Serves breakfast all day, including house-made biscuits, frittatas, kielbasa or boudin plates, and breakfast platters. 670 Jefferson. 552-3144. B, L, X, MRA, $ TART—Combination patisserie and coffeehouse serving rustic French specialties, including baked eggs in brioche, topped with Gruyere, and French breads and pastries. One Commerce Square, 40 S. Main #150. 421-6276. B, L, WB, X, $-$$ TERRACE—Creative American and Continental cuisine includes such dishes as filet mignon, beef or lamb sliders, chicken satay, and mushroom pizzetta. Rooftop, River Inn of Harbor Town, 50 Harbor Town Square. 260-3366. D, X, MRA, $$ TEXAS DE BRAZIL—Serves beef, pork, lamb, and chicken dishes, and Brazilian sausage; also a salad bar with extensive toppings. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 103. 526-7600. L (Wed.-Fri.), D, SB, X, $$-$$$ UNCLE BUCK’S FISHBOWL & GRILL—Burgers, pizza, fish dishes, sandwiches, and more served in a unique “underwater” setting. Bass Pro, Bass Pro Drive, 291-8200. B, L, D, X, $-$$ THE VAULT—Oysters, shrimp beignets, flatbreads, stuffed cornish hen, and Smash Burger featured on “Late Nite Eats” are among the dishes offered at this Creole/Italian fusion eatery. Closed for lunch Mon. and Tues. 124 G.E. Patterson. 591-8000. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$

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WESTY’S—Extensive menu includes a variety of wild rice dishes, sandwiches, plate lunches, and hot fudge pie. 346 N. Main. 543-3278.L, D, X, $

COLLIERVILLE CAFE PIAZZA BY PAT LUCCHESI—Specializes in gourmet pizzas (including create-your-own), panini sandwiches, and pasta. Closed Sun. 139 S. Rowlett St. 861-1999. L, D, X, $-$$ CIAO BABY—Specializing in Neapolitan-style pizza made in a wood-fired oven. Also serves house-made mozzarella, pasta, appetizers, and salads. 890 W. Poplar, Suite 1. 457-7457. L, D, X, $ DAVID GRISANTI’S—Serving Northern Italian cuisine and traditional family recipes, like the Elfo Special, shrimp sauteed in garlic and butter, tossed with white button mushrooms and white pepper, and served over vermicelli with Parmigiano-Reggiano. Closed Sun. 684 W. Poplar (Sheffield Antiques Mall). 861-1777. L, D (Thurs.-Sat.), X, $-$$$ EL MEZCAL—Serves burritos, chimichangas, fajitas, and other Mexican cuisine, as well as shrimp dinners and steak. 9947 Wolf River, 853-7922; 402 Perkins Extd. 761-7710; 694 N.Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 755-1447; 1492 Union. 274-4264; 11615 Airline Rd. (Arlington). 867-1883; 9045 Highway 64 (Lakeland). 383-4219; 7164 Hacks Cross Rd. (Olive Branch). 662-890-3337; 8834 Hwy. 51 N. (Millington). 872-3220; 7424 Highway 64 (Bartlett). 417-6026. L, D, X, $ EMERALD THAI RESTAURANT—Spicy shrimp, pad khing, lemongrass chicken, and several noodle, rice, and vegetarian dishes are offered at this family restaurant. Closed Sunday. 8950 Highway 64 (Lakeland, TN). 384-0540. L, D X, $-$$ FIREBIRDS—Specialties are hand-cut steaks, slow-roasted prime rib, and wood-grilled salmon and other seafood, as well as seasonal entrees. 4600 Merchants Circle, Carriage Crossing. 850-1637; 8470 Highway 64 (Bartlett). 379-1300. L, D, X, $-$$$ JIM’S PLACE GRILLE—Features American, Greek, and Continental cuisine with such entrees as pork tenderloin, several seafood specialties, and hand-cut charcoal-grilled steaks. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 3660 Houston Levee. 861-5000. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$ MULAN ASIAN BISTRO—Hunan Chicken, tofu dishes, and orange beef served here; sushi and Thai food, too. 2059 Houston Levee. 850-5288; 2149 Young. 347-3965; 4698 Spottswood. 609-8680. L, D, X, $-$$ OSAKA JAPANESE CUISINE—Featuring an extensive sushi menu as well as traditional Japanese and hibachi dining. Hours vary for lunch; call. 3670 Houston Levee. 861-4309; 3402 Poplar. 249-4690; 7164 Hacks Cross (Olive Branch). 662-8909312; 2200 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 425-4901. L, D, X, $-$$$ P.O. PRESS PUBLIC HOUSE AND PROVISIONS—Featuring house-aged meats and locally sourced produce, the menu changes with availability, with such items as seasonal fish, local beef, and fresh vegetable dishes. 148 N. Main. 457-7655. D (except Sunday), SB, X, $-$$ RAVEN & LILY—Eatery offers innovative Southerninspired cuisine with such dishes as crispy shrimp and cauliflower salad, spiced lamb sausage and parmesan risotto, and bananas foster pain perdu. Closed Monday. 120 E. Mulberry. 286-4575. L, D, SB, X, $-$$ SEAR SHACK BURGERS & FRIES—Serving Angus burgers, fries, and hand-spun milkshakes. Closed Mon. 875 W. Poplar, Suite 6. 861-4100; 5101 Sanderlin, Suite 103. 567-4909 ; 7424 Stage Road, Suite 121 (Bartlett). 382-3083; 6518 Goodman (Olive Branch). 662-4084932; 427 E. Commerce (Hernando). 662-469-4114. L, D, X, $ STIX—Hibachi steakhouse with Asian cuisine features steak, chicken, and a fillet and lobster combination, also sushi. A specialty is Dynamite Chicken with fried rice. 4680 Merchants Park Circle, Avenue Carriage Crossing. 854-3399. L, D, X, $-$$ ZOPITA’S ON THE SQUARE—Cafe offers sandwiches, including smoked salmon and pork tenderloin, as well as salads and desserts. Closed Sun. 114 N. Main. 457-7526. L, D, X, $

CORDOVA BOMBAY HOUSE—Indian fare includes lamb korma and chicken tikka; also, a daily luncheon buffet. 1727 N. Germantown Pkwy. 755-4114. L, D, X, $-$$ THE BUTCHER SHOP—Serves steaks ranging from 8-oz. fillets to a 20-oz. porterhouse; also chicken, pork chops, fresh seafood. 107 S. Germantown Rd. 757-4244. L (Fri. and Sun.), D, X, $$-$$$ FOX RIDGE PIZZA—Pizzas, calzones, sub sandwiches, burgers, and meat-and-two plate lunches are among the dishes served at this eatery, which opened in 1979. 1769 N. Germantown Pkwy. 758-6500. L, D, X, $ GREEN BAMBOO—Pineapple tilapia, pork vermicelli, and the soft egg noodle combo are Vietnamese specialties here. 990 N. Germantown Parkway, #104. 753-5488. L, D, $-$$ KING JERRY LAWLER’S MEMPHIS BBQ COMPANY—Offers a variety of barbecue dishes, including brisket, ribs, nachos topped with smoked pork, and a selection of barbecue “Slamwiches.” 465 N. Germantown Pkwy., #116. 509-2360. L, D, X, $ JIM ’N NICK’S BAR-B-Q—Serves barbecued pork, ribs, chicken, brisket, and fish, along with other homemade Southern specialties. 2359 N. Germantown Pkwy. 388-0998. L, D, X, $-$$ MISTER B’S—Features New Orleans-style seafood and steaks. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. and Mon. 6655 Poplar, #107. 751-5262. L, D, X, $-$$$ PEI WEI ASIAN DINER—Serves a variety of Pan-Asian cuisine, including Japanese, Vietnamese, Korean, and Thai. Noodle and rice bowls are specialties; a small plates menu also offered. 2257 N. Germantown Pkwy. 382-1822. L, D, X, $-$$ PRESENTATION ROOM, THE—American bistro run by the students of L’Ecole Culinaire. Menu changes regularly; specialties may include such items as a filet with truffle mushroom ragu. Service times vary; call for details. Closed Fri.-Sun. 1245 N. Germantown Pkwy. 754-7115. L, D, X, $-$$ SHOGUN JAPANESE RESTAURANT—Entrees include tempura, teriyaki, and sushi, as well as grilled fish and chicken entrees. 2324 N. Germantown Pkwy. 384-4122. L, D, X, $-$$ TANNOOR GRILL—Brazilian-style steakhouse with skewers served tableside, along with Middle Eastern specialties; vegetarian options also available. 830 N. Germantown Pkwy. 443-5222. L, D, X, $-$$$

EAST MEMPHIS

(INCLUDES POPLAR/ I-240) ACRE—Features seasonal modern American cuisine in an avante-garde setting using locally sourced products; also small-plates and enclosed garden patio. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 690 S. Perkins. 818-2273. L, D, X, $$-$$$ AGAVOS COCINA & TEQUILA—Camaron de Tequila, tamales, kabobs, and burgers made with a blend of beef and chorizo are among the offerings at this tequila-centric restaurant and bar. 2924 Walnut Grove. 433-9345. L, D, X, $-$$ AMERIGO—Traditional and contemporary Italian cuisine includes pasta, wood-fired pizza, steaks, and cedarwood-roasted fish. 1239 Ridgeway, Park Place Mall. 761-4000. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ ANDREW MICHAEL ITALIAN KITCHEN— Traditional Italian cuisine with a menu from two of the city’s top chefs that changes seasonally with such entrees as Maw Maw’s ravioli. Closed Sun.-Mon. 712 W. Brookhaven Cl. 347-3569. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ ANOTHER BROKEN EGG CAFE—Offering several varieties of eggs benedict, waffles, omelets, pancakes, beignets, and other breakfast fare; also burgers, sandwiches, and salads. 6063 Park Ave. 729-7020; 65 S. Highland. 623-7122. B, L, WB, X, $ BANGKOK ALLEY—Thai fusion cuisine includes noodle and curry dishes, chef-specialty sushi rolls, coconut soup, and duck and seafood entrees. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. at Brookhaven location; call for hours. 715 W. Brookhaven Cl. 590-2585; 2150 W. Poplar at Houston Levee (Collierville). 854-8748. L, D, X, $-$$

BENIHANA—This Japanese steakhouse serves beef, chicken, and seafood grilled at the table; some menu items change monthly; sushi bar also featured. 912 Ridge Lake. 767-8980. L, D, X, $$-$$$ BLUE PLATE CAFÉ—For breakfast, the café’s serves old-fashioned buttermilk pancakes (it’s a secret recipe!), country ham and eggs, and waffles with fresh strawberries and cream. For lunch, the café specializes in country cooking. 5469 Poplar. 761-9696; 113 S. Court. 523-2050. B, L, X, $ BROOKLYN BRIDGE ITALIAN RESTAURANT— Specializing in such homemade entrees as spinach lasagna and lobster ravioli; a seafood specialty is horseradish-crusted salmon. Closed Sun. 1779 Kirby Pkwy. 755-7413. D, X, $-$$$ BRYANT’S BREAKFAST—Three-egg omelets, pancakes, and The Sampler Platter are among the popular entrees here. Possibly the best biscuits in town. Closed Mon. and Tues. 3965 Summer. 324-7494. B, L, X, $ BUCKLEY’S FINE FILET GRILL—Specializes in steaks, seafood, and pasta. (Lunchbox serves entree salads, burgers, and more.) 5355 Poplar. 683-4538; 919 S. Yates (Buckley’s Lunchbox), 682-0570. L (Yates only, M-F), D, X, $-$$ BUNTYN CORNER CAFE—Serving favorites from Buntyn Restaurant, including chicken and dressing, cobbler, and yeast rolls. 5050 Poplar, Suite 107. 424-3286. B, L, X, $ CAPITAL GRILLE—Known for its dry-aged, hand-carved steaks; among the specialties are bone-in sirloin, and porcini-rubbed Delmonico; also seafood entrees and seasonal lunch plates. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. Crescent Center, 6065 Poplar. 683-9291. L, D, X, $$$-$$$$ CASABLANCA—Lamb shawarma is one of the fresh, homemade specialties served at this Mediterranean/Moroccan restaurant; fish entrees and vegetarian options also available. 5030 Poplar. 725-8557 ; 7609 Poplar Pike (Germantown). 4255908; 1707 Madison. 421-6949. L, D, X, $-$$ CIAO BELLA—Among the Italian and Greek specialties are lasagna, seafood pasta, gourmet pizzas, and vegetarian options. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 565 Erin Dr., Erin Way Shopping Center. 205-2500. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$ CITY SILO TABLE + PANTRY—With a focus on clean eating, this establishment offers fresh juices, as well as comfort foods re-imagined with wholesome ingredients. 5101 Sanderlin. 729-7687. B, L, D, X, $ CORKY’S—Popular barbecue emporium offers both wet and dry ribs, plus a full menu of other barbecue entrees. Wed. lunch buffets, Cordova and Collierville. 5259 Poplar. 685-9744; 1740 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 737-1911; 743 W. Poplar (Collierville). 405-4999; 6434 Goodman Rd., Olive Branch. 662-893-3663. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ ERLING JENSEN—For over 20 years, has presented “globally inspired” cuisine to die for. Specialties are rack of lamb, big game entrees, and fresh fish dishes. 1044 S. Yates. 763-3700. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE—Serves wetaged and dry-aged steaks, prime beef, chops, and seafood, including salmon, Australian lobster tails, and a catch of the day. 6245 Poplar. 761-6200. D, X, MRA, $$$-$$$$ FOLK’S FOLLY ORIGINAL PRIME STEAK HOUSE—Specializes in prime steaks, as well as lobster, grilled Scottish salmon, Alaskan king crab legs, rack of lamb, and weekly specials. Now celebrating their 40th year. 551 S. Mendenhall. 762-8200. D, X, MRA, $$$-$$$$ FORMOSA—Offers Mandarin cuisine, including broccoli beef, hot-and-sour soup, and spring rolls. Closed Monday. 6685 Quince. 753-9898. L, D, X, $-$$ FRATELLI’S—Serves hot and cold sandwiches, salads, soups, and desserts, all with an Italian/Mediterranean flair. Closed Sunday. 750 Cherry Rd., Memphis Botanic Garden. 766-9900. L, X, $ FRANK GRISANTI’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT— Northern Italian favorites include pasta with jumbo shrimp and mushrooms; also seafood, fillet mignon, and daily lunch specials. Closed for lunch Sunday. Embassy Suites Hotel, 1022 S. Shady Grove. 761-9462. L, D, X, $-$$$ THE GROVE GRILL—Offers steaks, chops, seafood, and other American cuisine with Southern and global influences; entrees include crab cakes, and shrimp and grits, also dinner specials. Founder Jeff Dunham’s son Chip is now chef de cuisine. 4550 Poplar. 818-9951. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $$-$$$ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 9 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 73

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74 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 9

HALF SHELL—Specializes in seafood, such as King crab legs; also serves steaks, chicken, pastas, salads, sandwiches, a ”voodoo menu”; oyster bar at Winchester location. 688 S. Mendenhall. 682-3966; 7825 Winchester. 737-6755. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ HIGH POINT PIZZA—Serves variety of pizzas, subs, salads, and sides. Closed Monday. A neighborhood fixture. 477 High Point Terrace. 452-3339. L, D, X, $-$$ HOG & HOMINY—The casual sister to Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen serves brick-oven-baked pizzas, including the Red-Eye with pork belly, and small plates with everything from meatballs to beef and cheddar hot dogs; and local veggies. Closed for lunch Mon. 707 W. Brookhaven Cl. 207-7396. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ HOUSTON’S—Serves steaks, seafood, pork chops, chicken dishes, sandwiches, salads, and Chicago-style spinach dip. Farmous for first-class service. 5000 Poplar. 683-0915. L, D, X $-$$$ INTERIM—Offers American-seasonal cuisine with emphasis on local foods and fresh fish; daily chef specials. Closed for lunch Sat. 5040 Sanderlin, Suite 105. 818-0821. L, D, SB, X, $-$$$ LA BAGUETTE—An almond croissant and chicken salad are among specialties at this French-style bistro. Closed for dinner Sun. 3088 Poplar. 458-0900. B, L, D (closes at 7), X, MRA, $ LAS DELICIAS—Popular for its guacamole, house-made tortilla chips, and margaritas, this restaurant draws diners with its chicken enchiladas, meat-stuffed flautas, and Cuban torta with spicy pork. Closed Sunday. 4002 Park Ave. 458-9264; 5689 Quince. 800-2873. L, D, X, $ LIBRO AT LAURELWOOD—Bookstore eatery features a variety of sandwiches, salads, and homemade pasta dishes, with Italian-inspired options such as carbonara and potato gnocchi. Closed for dinner Sun. 387 Perkins Ext. (Novel). 8002656. B, L, D, SB, X, $-$$ LISA’S LUNCHBOX—Serving bagels, sandwiches, salads, and wraps. 5885 Ridgeway Center Pkwy., Suite 101. 767-6465; 2659 Thousand Oaks Blvd., Suite 1200; 166 S. Front. 729-7277. B, L, $ LOST PIZZA—Offering pizzas (with dough made from scratch), pasta, salads, sandwiches, tamales, and more. 2855 Poplar. 572-1803; 5960 Getwell (Southaven). 662-892-8684. L, D, X, $-$$ LYNCHBURG LEGENDS—This restaurant with a Jack Daniels’ theme and Southern cuisine serves such entrees as Bourbon Street salmon, buttermilk-fried chicken, and grilled steak and wild mushroom salad. DoubleTree Hotel, 5069 Sanderlin. 969-7777. B, L, D, X, $- $$$ MAHOGANY MEMPHIS—Upscale Southern restaurant offers such dishes as coffee-rubbed lamb chops and baked Cajun cornish hen. Closed for dinner Sun. and all day Mon.-Tues. 3092 Poplar, Suite 11. 623-7977. L, D, SB, X, $-$$$ MARCIANO MEDITERRANEAN AND ITALIAN CUISINE—Veal Saltimbocca with angel hair pasta and white wine sauce is among the entrees; also steaks, seafood, and gourmet pizza. Closed Sun. 780 Brookhaven Cl. 682-1660. D, X, $-$$  DAN MCGUINNESS PUB—Serves fish and chips, shepherd’s pie, burgers, and other Irish and American fare; also lunch and dinner specials. 4694 Spottswood. 761-3711; 3964 Goodman Rd. 662-890-7611. L, D, X, $ MAYURI INDIAN CUISINE—Serves tandoori chicken, masala dosa, tikka masala, as well as lamb and shrimp entrees; also a daily lunch buffet, and dinner buffet on Fri.-Sat. 6524 Quince Rd. 753-8755. L, D, X, $-$$ MELLOW MUSHROOM—Large menu includes assortment of pizzas, salads, calzones, hoagies, vegetarian options, and 50 beers on tap. 5138 Park Ave. 562-12119155 Poplar; Shops of Forest Hill (Germantown). 907-0243. L, D, X, $-$$ MOSA ASIAN BISTRO—Specialties include sesame chicken, Thai calamari, rainbow panang curry with grouper fish, and other Pan Asian/fusion entrees. Closed Mon. 850 S. White Station Rd. 683-8889. L, D, X, MRA, $ NAM KING—Offers luncheon and dinner buffets, dim sum, and such specialties as fried dumplings, pepper steak, and orange chicken. 4594 Yale. 373-4411. L, D, X, $  NAPA CAFE—Among the specialties is miso-marinated salmon over black rice with garlic spinach and shiitake

mushrooms. Closed Sun. 5101 Sanderlin, Suite 122. 683-0441. L, D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ NEW HUNAN—Chinese eatery with more than 80 entrees; also lunch/dinner buffets. 5052 Park. 766-1622. L, D, X, $ ONE & ONLY BBQ—On the menu are pork barbecue sandwiches, platters, wet and dry ribs, smoked chicken and turkey platters, a smoked meat salad, barbecue quesadillas, Brunswick Stew, and Millie’s homemade desserts. 1779 Kirby Pkwy. 751-3615; 567 Perkins Extd. 249-4227. L, D, X, $ ONO POKÉ—This eatery specializes in poké — a Hawaiian dish of fresh fish salad served over rice. Menu includes a variety of poké bowls, like the Kimchi Tuna bowl, or customers can build their own by choosing a base, protein, veggies, and toppings. 3145 Poplar. 618-2955. L, D, X, $ OWEN BRENNAN’S—New Orleans-style menu of beef, chicken, pasta, and seafood; jambalaya, shrimp and grits, and crawfish etouffee are specialties. Closed for dinner Sunday. The Regalia, 6150 Poplar. 761-0990. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ PARK + CHERRY—Partnering with CFY Catering, the Dixon offers casual dining within the museum. Menu features sandwiches, like truffled pimento cheese, as well as salads, snacks, and sweets. Closed for breakfast Sun. and all day Mon. 4339 Park (Dixon Gallery). 761-5250. L, X, $ PATRICK’S—Serves barbecue nachos, burgers, and entrees such as fish and chips; also plate lunches and daily specials. 4972 Park. 682-2852. L, D, X, MRA, $ PETE & SAM’S—Serving Memphis for 60-plus years; offers steaks, seafood, and traditional Italian dishes, including homemade ravioli, lasagna, and chicken marsala. 3886 Park. 458-0694. D, X, $-$$$ PF CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO—Specialties are orange peel shrimp, Mongolian beef, and chicken in lettuce wraps; also vegetarian dishes, including spicy eggplant. 1181 Ridgeway Rd., Park Place Centre. 818-3889. L, D, X, $-$$ PHO SAIGON—Vietnamese fare includes beef teriyaki, roasted quail, curry ginger chicken, vegetarian options, and a variety of soups. 2946 Poplar. 458-1644. L, D, $ PIZZA REV—Specializes in build-your-own, personal-sized artisanal pizza. Choose from homemade dough options, all-natural sauces, Italian cheeses, and more than 30 toppings. 6450 Poplar. 379-8188. L, D, X, MRA, $ PYRO’S FIRE-FRESH PIZZA—Serving gourmet pizzas cooked in an open-fire oven; wide choice of toppings; large local and craft beer selection. 1199 Ridgeway. 379-8294; 2035 Union Ave. 208-8857; 2286 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 207-1198; 3592 S. Houston Levee (Collierville). 221-8109. L, D, X, MRA, $ RIVER OAKS—Chef Jose Gutierrez’s French-style bistro serves seafood and steaks, with an emphasis on fresh local ingredients. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 5871 Poplar Ave. 683-9305. L, D, X, $$$ RONNIE GRISANTI’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT— This Memphis institution serves some family classics such as Elfo’s Special and handmade ravioli, along with house-made pizza and fresh oysters. Closed Sun. 6150 Poplar, #122. 850-0191. D, X, $-$$$ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE—Offers prime steaks cut and aged in-house, as well as lamb, chicken, and fresh seafood, including lobster. 6120 Poplar. 761-0055. D, X, $$$-$$$$ SALSA—Mexican-Southern California specialties include carnitas, enchiladas verde, and fajitas; also Southwestern seafood dishes such as snapper verde. Closed Sun. Regalia Shopping Center, 6150 Poplar, Suite 129. 683-6325. L, D, X, $-$$ SEASONS 52—This elegant fresh grill and wine bar offers a seasonally changing menu using fresh ingredients, wood-fire grilling, and brick-oven cooking; also a large international wine list and nightly piano bar. Crescent Center, 6085 Poplar. 682-9952. L, D, X, $$-$$$ STAKS—Offering pancakes, including Birthday Cake and lemon ricotta. Menu includes other breakfast items such as beignets and French toast, as well as soups and sandwiches for lunch. 4615 Poplar. 509-2367; 7704 Poplar (Germantown). 800-1951. B, L, WB, X, $ STRANO BY CHEF JOSH—Presenting a Sicilian/ Mediterranean mix of Arab, Spanish, Greek, and North African fare, Strano serves hand-tossed pizzas, woodgrilled fish, and such entrees as Chicken Under the Earth, cooked under a Himalayan salt block over a seasoned white oak woodfired grill. 518 Perkins Extd. 275-8986. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$

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SUSHI JIMMI—This food truck turned restaurant serves a variety of sushi rolls, fusion dishes — such as kimchi fries — and sushi burritos. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Mon. 2895 Poplar. 729-6985. L, D, X, $ TENNESSEE TACO CO.—From the creators of Belly Acres, offers such appetizers as crawfish and chorizo mac-ncheese and homemade guacamole and specializes in street tacos. 3295 Poplar. 207-1960. L, D, X, $ THREE LITTLE PIGS—Pork-shoulder-style barbecue with tangy mild or hot sauce, freshly made coleslaw, and baked beans. 5145 Quince Rd. 685-7094. B, L, D, X, $ TOPS BAR-B-Q—Specializes in pork barbecue sandwiches and sandwich plates with beans and slaw; also serves ribs, beef brisket, and burgers. 1286 Union. 725-7527. 4183 Summer. 324-4325; 5391 Winchester. 794-7936; 3970 Rhodes. 323-9865; 6130 Macon. 371-0580. For more locations, go online. L, D, X, $ VENICE KITCHEN—Specializes in “eclectic Italian” and Southern Creole, from pastas, including the “Godfather,” to hand-tossed pizzas, including the “John Wayne”; choose from 50 toppings. 368 Perkins Ext. 767-6872. L, D, SB, X, $-$$ WANG’S MANDARIN HOUSE—Offers Mandarin, Cantonese, Szechuan, and spicy Hunan entrees, including the golden-sesame chicken; next door is East Tapas, serving small plates with an Asian twist. 6065 Park Ave., Park Place Mall. 763-0676. L, D, X, $-$$ WASABI—Serving traditional Japanese offerings, hibachi, sashimi, and sushi. The Sweet Heart roll, wrapped — in the shape of a heart — with tuna and filled with spicy salmon, yellowtail, and avocado, is a specialty. 5101 Sanderlin Rd., Suite 105. 421-6399. L, D, X, $-$$ WOMAN’S EXCHANGE TEA ROOM—Chicken-salad plate, beef tenderloin, soups-and-sandwiches, and vegetable plates are specialties; meal includes drink and dessert. Closed Sat.-Sun. 88 Racine. 327-5681. L, X, $ ZAKA BOWL—This vegan-friendly restaurant serves buildyour-own vegetable bowls featuring ingredients such as agave Brussels sprouts and roasted beets. Also serves tuna poke and herbed chicken bowls. 575 Erin. 509-3105. L, D, $

GERMANTOWN BLUE HONEY BISTRO—Entrees at this upscale eatery include brown butter scallops served with Mississippi blue rice and herb-crusted beef tenderloin with vegetables and truffle butter. Closed Sun. 9155 Poplar, Suite 17. 552-3041. D, X, $-$$$ FARM & FRIES—A burger-centric menu features 100 percent grass fed and finished beef served in creative combinations like roasted portobellos and Swiss cheese. Try the Brussels with cheddar, bacon and quick-fried sprout leaves or fries, house-cut with dipping sauces. Closed Sun. 7724 Poplar Pike. 791-2328. L, D, X, $ FOREST HILL GRILL—A variety of standard pub fare and a selection of mac ‘n’ cheese dishes are featured on the menu. Specialties include Chicken Newport and a barbecue salmon BLT. 9102 Poplar Pike. 624-6001. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ GERMANTOWN COMMISSARY—Serves barbecue sandwiches, sliders, ribs, shrimp, and nachos, as well as smoked barbecued bologna sandwiches; Mon.-night all-youcan-eat ribs. 2290 S. Germantown Rd. S. 754-5540. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ LAS TORTUGAS DELI MEXICANA— Authentic Mexican food prepared from local food sources; specializes in tortugas — grilled bread scooped out to hold such powerfully popular fillings as brisket, pork, and shrimp; also tingas, tostados. Closed Sunday. 1215 S. Germantown Rd. 751-1200; 6300 Poplar. 623-3882. L, D, X, $-$$ MISTER B’S—Features New Orleans-style seafood and steaks. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. and Mon. 6655 Poplar, #107. 751-5262. L, D, X, $-$$$ NOODLES ASIAN BISTRO—Serves a variety of traditional Asian cuisine, with emphasis on noodle dishes, such as Singapore Street Noodles and Hong Kong Chow Fun. 7850 Poplar, #12. 755-1117. L, D, X, $ PETRA CAFÉ—Serves Greek, Italian, and Middle Eastern sandwiches, gyros, and entrees. Hours vary; call. 6641 Poplar. 754-4440; 547 S. Highland. 323-3050. L, D, X, $-$$

RED KOI—Classic Japanese cuisine offered at this family-run restaurant; hibachi steaks, sushi, seafood, chicken, and vegetables. 5847 Poplar. 767-3456. L, D, X $-$$ ROCK’N DOUGH PIZZA CO.—Specialty and custom pizzas made from fresh ingredients; wide variety of toppings. 7850 Poplar, #6. 779-2008. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $$ ROYAL PANDA—Hunan fish, Peking duck, Royal Panda chicken and shrimp, and a seafood combo are among the specialties. 3120 Village Shops Dr. 756-9697. L, D, X, $-$$ RUSSO’S NEW YORK PIZZERIA AND WINE BAR—Serves gourmet pizzas, calzones, and pasta, including lasagna, fettuccine Alfredo, scampi, and more. 9087 Poplar, Suite 111. 755-0092. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ SAKURA—Sushi, tempura, and teriyaki are Japanese specialties here. 2060 West St. 758-8181; 4840 Poplar. 572-1002. L, D, X, $-$$ SOUTHERN SOCIAL—Shrimp and grits, stuffed quail, and Aunt Thelma’s Fried Chicken are among the dishes served at this upscale Southern establishment. 2285 S. Germantown Rd. 754-5555. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ WEST STREET DINER—This home-style eatery offers breakfast, burgers, po’boys, and more. 2076 West St. 757-2191. B, L, D (Mon.-Fri.), X, $ WOLF RIVER BRISKET CO.—From the owners of Pyro’s Fire Fresh Pizza, highlights include house-smoked meats: prime beef brisket, chicken, and salmon. Closed Sun. 9947 Wolf River Boulevard, Suite 101. 316-5590. L, D, X, $-$

MIDTOWN (INCLUDES THE MEDICAL CENTER) ABYSSINIA RESTAURANT—Ethiopian/Mediterranean menu includes beef, chicken, lamb, fish entrees, and vegetarian dishes; also a lunch buffet. 2600 Poplar. 321-0082. L, D, X, $-$$ ALCHEMY—Southern fusion, locally grown cuisine features small and large plates; among the offerings are pan-seared hanger steak, quail, and lamb chops; also handcrafted cocktails and local craft beers. 940 S. Cooper. 726-4444. D, SB, X, $-$$ ART BAR—Inventive cocktails feature locally foraged ingredients; snacks include house-cured salt & vinegar potato chips and herb-roasted olives. Closed Mon. 1350 Concourse Avenue #280. 507-8030. D, X, $ ATOMIC TIKI—Island-inspired dishes such as barbecue nachos with pineapple mango relish, Polynesian meatballs, and shrimp roll sliders are served in a tiki bar atmosphere. Closed Mon. 1545 Overton Park. 279-3935. D, $ BABALU TACOS & TAPAS—This Overton Square eatery dishes up Spanish-style tapas with Southern flair; also taco and enchilada of the day; specials change daily. 2115 Madison. 274-0100; 6450 Poplar, 410-8909. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ BAR DKDC—Features an ever-changing menu of international “street food,” from Thai to Mexican, Israeli to Indian, along with specialty cocktails. 964 S. Cooper. 272-0830. D, X, MRA, $ BAR-B-Q SHOP—Dishes up barbecued ribs, spaghetti, bologna; also pulled pork shoulder, Texas toast barbecue sandwich, chicken sandwich, and salads. Closed Sun. 1782 Madison. 272-1277. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ BARI RISTORANTE ENOTECA—Authentic Southeastern Italian cuisine (Puglia) emphasizes lighter entrees. Serves fresh fish and beef dishes and a homemade soup of the day. 22 S. Cooper. 722-2244. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ BARKSDALE RESTAURANT—Old-school diner serving breakfast and Southern plate lunches. 237 Cooper. 722-2193. B, L, D, X, $ BAYOU BAR & GRILL—New Orleans fare at this Overton Square eatery includes jambalaya, gumbo, catfish Acadian, shrimp dishes, red beans and rice, and muffalettas. 2094 Madison. 278-8626. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ BEAUTY SHOP—Modern American cuisine with international flair served in a former beauty shop. Serves steaks salads, pasta, and seafood, including pecan-crusted golden sea bass. Perennial “Best Brunch” winner. Closed for dinner Sunday. 966 S. Cooper. 272-7111. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ BELLY ACRES—At this festive Overton Square eatery, milkshakes, floats, and burgers rule. Burgers are updated with contemporary toppings like grilled leeks, braised tomatoes, and sourdough or brioche buns. 2102 Trimble Pl. 529-7017. L, D, X, $

BHAN THAI—Authentic Thai cuisine includes curries, pad Thai noodles, and vegetarian dishes, as well as seafood, pork, and duck entrees. Closed for lunch Sat.Sun. and all day Mon. 1324 Peabody. 272-1538. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ BLUE NILE ETHIOPIAN—Kabobs, flavorful chicken and lamb stew, and injera (flatbread) are traditional items on the menu, along with vegetarian options. 1788 Madison. 474-7214. L, D, X, $-$$ BOSCOS—Tennessee’s first craft brewery serves a variety of freshly brewed beers as well as wood-fired oven pizzas, pasta, seafood, steaks, and sandwiches. 2120 Madison. 432-2222. L, D, SB (with live jazz), X, MRA, $-$$ BOUNTY ON BROAD—Offering family-style dining, Bounty serves small plates and family-sized platters, with such specialties as chicken fried quail and braised pork shank. 2519 Broad. 410-8131. L (Sat. and Sun.), D (Mon.-Sat.), SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ BROADWAY PIZZA—Serving a variety of pizzas, including the Broadway Special, as well as sandwiches, salads, wings, and soul-food specials. 2581 Broad. 454-7930; 627 S. Mendenhall. 207-1546. L, D, X, $-$$ CAFE 1912—French/American bistro owned by culinary pioneer Glenn Hays serving such seafood entrees as seared sea scallops with charred cauliflower purée and chorizo cumin sauce; also crepes, salads, and onion soup gratinée. 243 S. Cooper. 722-2700. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ THE CAFE AT CROSSTOWN—Features plantbased meals, with such menu items as chicken fried tofu over grits and greens and a seitan pastrami sandwich, as well as daily chef specials. Closed Sun.-Mon. 1350 Concourse Avenue #280. 507-8030. B, L, D, WB, X, $ CAFE BROOKS BY CITY & STATE—Serving graband-go pastries, as well as lunch items. Menu includes soups, salads, and sandwiches, such as the Modern Reuben and Grown Up Grilled Cheese. 1934 Poplar (Memphis Brooks Museum of Art). 544-6200. B, L, X, $ CAFE ECLECTIC—Omelets and chicken and waffles are among menu items, along with quesadillas, sandwiches, wraps, and burgers. Menu varies by location. 603 N. McLean. 725-1718; 111 Harbor Town Square. 590-4645; 510 S. Highland. 410-0765. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $ CAFE OLE—This eatery specializes in authentic Mexican cuisine; one specialty is the build-your-own quesadilla. 959 S. Cooper. 343-0103. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ CAFE PALLADIO—Serves gourmet salads, soups, sandwiches, and desserts in a tea room inside the antiques shop. Closed Sun. 2169 Central. 278-0129. L, X, $ CAFE SOCIETY—With Belgian and classic French influences, serves Wagyu beef, chicken, and seafood dishes, including bacon-wrapped shrimp, along with daily specials and vegetarian entrees. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 212 N. Evergreen. 722-2177. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ CELTIC CROSSING—Specializes in Irish and American pub fare. Entrees include shepherd’s pie, shrimp and sausage coddle, and fish and chips. 903 S. Cooper. 274-5151. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ CENTRAL BBQ—Serves ribs, smoked hot wings, pulled pork sandwiches, chicken, turkey, nachos, and portobello sandwiches. Offers both pork and beef barbecue. 2249 Central Ave. 272-9377; 4375 Summer Ave. 7674672; 147 E. Butler. 672-7760 ; 6201 Poplar. 417-7962. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ CHEF TAM’S UNDERGROUND CAFE—Serves Southern staples with a Cajun twist. Menu items include totchos, jerk wings, fried chicken, and “muddy” mac and cheese. Closed Sun. and Mon. 2299 Young. 207-6182. L, D, $ THE COVE—Nautical-themed restaurant and bar serving oysters, pizzas, and more. The Stoner Pie, with tamales and fritos, is a popular dish. 2559 Broad. 730-0719. L, D, $ THE CRAZY NOODLE—Korean noodle dishes range from bibam beef noodle with cabbage, carrots, and other vegetables, to curry chicken noodle; also rice cakes served in a flavorful sauce. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 2015 Madison. 272-0928. L, D, X, $ ECCO—Mediterranean-inspired specialties range from rib-eye steak to seared scallops to housemade pastas and a grilled vegetable plate; also a Saturday brunch. Closed Sun.-Mon. 1585 Overton Park. 410-8200. L, D, X, $-$$

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ELEMENTO NEAPOLITAN PIZZA— Crosstown pizzeria specializes in Neapolitan-style, wood-fired pizza with from-scratch dough. 1350 Concourse Avenue. 672-7527. L, D, X, $ FARM BURGER—Serves grass-fed, freshly ground, locally sourced burgers; also available with chicken, pork, or veggie quinoa patties, with such toppings as aged white cheddar, kale coleslaw, and roasted beets. 1350 Concourse Avenue #175. 800-1851. L, D, X, $ FRIDA’S—Mexican cuisine and Tex-Mex standards, including chimichangas, enchiladas, and fajitas; seafood includes shrimp and tilapia. 1718 Madison. 244-6196. L, D, X, $-$$ GLOBAL CAFE—This internationational food hall hosts three immigrant/refugee food entrepreneurs serving Nepalese, Sudanese, and Syrian cuisines. Samosas, shawarma, and kabobs are among the menu items. Closed Mon. 1350 Concourse Avenue #157. L, D, X, MRA, $ GOLDEN INDIA—Northern Indian specialties include tandoori chicken as well as lamb, beef, shrimp, and vegetarian dishes. 2097 Madison. 728-5111. L, D, X, $-$$ GROWLERS—Sports bar and eatery serves standard bar fare in addition to a pasta, tacos, chicken and waffles, and light options. 1911 Poplar. 244-7904. L, D, X, $-$$ HATTIE B’S—Fried chicken spot features “hot chicken” with a variety of heat levels; from no heat to “shut the cluck up” sauce. Sides include greens, pimento mac-and-cheese, and black-eyed pea salad. 596 Cooper. 424-5900. L, D, X, $ HM DESSERT LOUNGE—Serving cake, pie, and other desserts, as well as a selection of savory dishes, including meatloaf and mashed potato “cupcakes.” Closed Monday. 1586 Madison. 290-2099. L, D, X, $ HOPDODDY BURGER BAR—Focus is on locally sourced ingredients, with freshly baked buns and meat butchered and ground in-house. Patty options include Angus or Kobe beef, bison, chicken, and more; also vegetarian/ vegan. 6 S. Cooper. 654-5100; 4585 Poplar. 683-0700. L, D, X, $ IMAGINE VEGAN CAFE—Dishes at this fully vegan restaurant range from salads and sandwiches to full dinners, including eggplant parmesan and “beef” tips and rice; breakfast all day Sat. and Sun. 2158 Young. 654-3455. L, D, WB, X, $ INDIA PALACE—Tandoori chicken, lamb shish kabobs, and chicken tikka masala are among the entrees; also, vegetarian options and a daily all-you-can-eat lunch buffet. 1720 Poplar. 278-1199. L, D, X, $-$$ INSPIRE COMMUNITY CAFE—Serving breakfast all day, in addition to quesadillas, rice bowls, and more for lunch and dinner. 510 Tillman, Suite 110. 5098640. B, L, D, X, $ LAFAYETTE’S MUSIC ROOM—Serves such Southern cuisine as po boys and shrimp and grits, and wood-fired pizzas. 2119 Madison. 207-5097. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ LBOE—Gourmet burger joint serves locally sourced ground beef burgers, with options like the Mac-N-Cheese Burger and Caprese. Black bean and turkey patties available. 2021 Madison. 725-0770. L, D, X, $ THE LIQUOR STORE—Renovated liquor store turned diner serves all-day breakfast, sandwiches, and entrees such as Salisbury steak and smothered pork chops. Closed for dinner Sun.-Mon. 2655 Broad. 405-5477. B, L, D, X, $-$$ LITTLE ITALY—Serving New York-style pizza as well as subs and pasta dishes. 1495 Union. 725-0280; 106 GE Patterson. L, D, X, $-$$ LUCKY CAT RAMEN—Specializes in gourmet ramen bowls, such as Bacon Collards Ramen, made with rich broth. Bao, steamed buns filled with various meats and veggies, also grace the menu. 247 S. Cooper. 633-8296. L, D, X, $-$$ MAMA GAIA—Greek-inspired dishes at this vegetarian eatery include pitas, “petitzzas,” and quinoa bowls. 2144 Madison. 214-2449. B, L, D, X, $-$$ MARDI GRAS MEMPHIS—Serving Cajun fare, including an etouffee-stuffed po’boy. Closed Mon. 496 Watkins. 5306767. L, D, X, $-$$ MAXIMO’S ON BROAD—Serving a tapas menu that features creative fusion cuisine; entrees include veggie paella and fish of the day. Closed Mon. 2617 Broad Ave. 452-1111. D, SB, X, $-$$

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F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 9 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 77

MEMPHIS PIZZA CAFE—Homemade pizzas are specialties; also serves sandwiches, calzones, and salads. 2087 Madison. 726-5343; 5061 Park Ave. 684-1306; 7604 W. Farmington (Germantown). 753-2218; 797 W. Poplar (Collierville). 861-7800; 5627 Getwell (Southaven). 662-536-1364. L, D, X, $-$$ MOLLY’S LA CASITA—Homemade tamales, fish tacos, a vegetarian combo, and bacon-wrapped shrimp are a few of the specialties. 2006 Madison. 726-1873. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ NEXT DOOR AMERICAN EATERY—The Kitchen’s sister restaurant serves dishes sourced from American farms. Menu features chorizo bacon dates, spicy gulf shrimp, and dry-aged beef burgers. 1350 Concourse Avenue Suite 165. 779-1512. L, D, X, $ ONIX RESTAURANT—Serves seafood dishes, including barbecued shrimp and pecan-crusted trout, and a variety of salads and sandwiches. Closed Sun. 1680 Madison. 552-4609. L, D, X, $-$$ PAYNE’S BAR-B-QUE—Opened in 1972, this family owned barbecue joint serves ribs, smoked sausage, and chopped pork sandwiches with a standout mustard slaw and homemade sauce. About as down-toearth as it gets. 1762 Lamar. 272-1523. L, D, $-$$ PHO BINH—Vietnamese, vegetarian, and Cantonese specialties include lemon tofu and spring rolls. Closed Sunday. 1615 Madison. 276-0006. L, D, $ RAILGARTEN—Located in a former rail station space, this eatery offers breakfast items, a variety of salads and sandwiches, and such entrees as short rib mac-and-cheese and fish tacos. Also serves shakes, malts, floats, and cream sodas. 2166 Central. 231-5043. B, L, D, $-$$ RED FISH ASIAN BISTRO—From the former 19th Century Club building, serves sushi, teriyaki, and hibachi. Specialities include yuzu filet mignon and Chilean sea bass. 1433 Union. 454-3926; 9915 Highway 64 (Lakeland). 729-7581; 6518 Goodman (Olive Branch). 662-874-5254. L, D, X, $-$$$ RESTAURANT IRIS—French Creole-inspired classics, such as gulf shrimp and rice grits congee served with lap chong sausage and boiled peanuts, are served at this newly remodeled restaurant owned by Chef Kelly English, a Food and Wine “Top Ten.” 2146 Monroe. 5902828. D, X, $$-$$$ ROBATA RAMEN & YAKITORI BAR—Serves ramen noodle bowls and Yakitori skewers as well as rice and noodle dishes. 2116 Madison. 410-8290. L, D, X, $ SABROSURA—Serves Mexican and Cuban fare, including arroz tapada de pollo and steak Mexican. Closed Sun. 782 Washington. 421-8180. L, D, X, $-$$ SAUCY CHICKEN—Specializes in antibiotic-free chicken dishes with locally sourced ingredients, with such items as hot wings and the Crosstown Chicken Sandwich, and a variety of house-made dippings sauces; also, seafood, salads, and daily specials. L, D (Mon.-Fri.), $ SECOND LINE, THE—Kelly English brings “relaxed Creole cuisine” to his newest eatery; serves a variety of po-boys and such specialties as barbecue shrimp, and andouille, shrimp, and pimento cheese fries. 2144 Monroe. 590-2829. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ SEKISUI—Japanese fusion cuisine, fresh sushi bar, grilled meats and seafood, California rolls, and vegetarian entrees. Poplar/Perkins location’s emphasis is on Pacific Rim cuisine. Menu and hours vary at each location. 25 Belvedere. 725-0005; 1884 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 309-8800; 4724 Poplar (between Perkins & Colonial). 767-7770; 2130 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-0622; 2990 Kirby-Whitten (Bartlett). 377-2727; 6696 Poplar. 747-0001. L, D, X, $-$$$ STONE SOUP CAFE—Cooper-Young eatery serving soups, salads, quiche, meat-and-two specials; and daily specials such as Italian roast beef. Closed Monday. 993 S. Cooper. 922-5314. B, L, SB, X, $ SOUL FISH CAFE—Serving Southern-style soul food, tacos, and Po Boys, including catfish, crawfish, oyster, shrimp, chicken and smoked pork tenderloin. 862 S. Cooper. 725-0722; 3160 Village Shops Dr. (Germantown). 755-6988; 4720 Poplar. 590-0323. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ SWEET GRASS—Chef Ryan Trimm takes Southern cuisine to a new level. Low-country coastal cuisine includes such specialties as shrimp and grits. Closed Mon. Restaurant’s “sister,” Sweet Grass Next Door, open nightly, serves lunch Sat.-Sun. 937 S. Cooper. 278-0278. D, SB, X, $-$$$

TROLLEY STOP MARKET—Serves plate lunches/dinners as well as pizzas, salads, and vegan/vegetarian entrees; a specialty is the locally raised beef burger. Also sells fresh produce and goods from local farmers; delivery available. Saturday brunch; closed Sunday. 704 Madison. 526-1361. L, D, X, $ TSUNAMI—Features Pacific Rim cuisine (Asia, Australia, South Pacific, etc.); also a changing “small plate” menu. Chef Ben Smith is a Cooper-Young pioneer. Specialties include Asian nachos and roasted sea bass. Closed Sunday. 928 S. Cooper. 274-2556. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$

SOUTH MEMPHIS (INCLUDES

PARKWAY VILLAGE, FOX MEADOWS, SOUTH MEMPHIS, WINCHESTER, AND WHITEHAVEN)

COLETTA’S—Longtime eatery serves such specialties as homemade ravioli, lasagna, and pizza with barbecue or traditional toppings. 1063 S. Parkway E. 948-7652; 2850 Appling Rd. (Bartlett). 383-1122. L, D, X, $-$$ CURRY BOWL—Specializes in Southern Indian cuisine, serving Tandoori chicken, biryani, tikka masala, and more. Weekend buffet. 4141 Hacks Cross. 207-6051. L, D, $ DELTA’S KITCHEN—The premier restaurant at The Guest House at Graceland serves Elvis-inspired dishes — like Nutella and Peanut Butter Crepes for breakfast — and upscale Southern cuisine — including lamb chops and shrimp and grits — for dinner. 3600 Elvis Presley Blvd. 443-3000. B, D, X, $-$$$ DWJ KOREAN BARBECUE—This authentic Korean eatery serves kimbap, barbecued beef short ribs, rice and noodles dishes, and hot pots and stews. 3750 Hacks Cross, Suite 101. 746-8057; 2156 Young. 207-6204. L, D, $-$$ THE FOUR WAY—Legendary soul-food establishment dishing up such entrees as fried and baked catfish, chicken, and turkey and dressing, along with a host of vegetables and desserts. Around the corner from the legendary Stax Studio. Closed Monday. 998 Mississippi Blvd. 507-1519. L, D, $ INTERSTATE BAR-B-Q—Specialties include chopped pork-shoulder sandwiches, ribs, hot wings, spaghetti, chicken, and turkey. 2265 S. Third. 775-2304; 150 W. Stateline Rd. (Southaven). 662-393-5699. L, D, X, $-$$ LEONARD’S—Serves wet and dry ribs, barbecue sandwiches, spaghetti, catfish, homemade onion rings, and lemon icebox pie; also a lunch buffet. 5465 Fox Plaza. 360-1963. L, X, $-$$ MARLOWE’S—In addition to its signature barbecue and ribs, Marlowe’s serves Southern-style steaks, chops, lasagne, and more. 4381 Elvis Presley Blvd. 332-4159. D, X, MRA, $-$$ UNCLE LOU’S FRIED CHICKEN—Featured on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives for good reason: fried chicken (mild, hot, or home-style); jumbo burgers four patties high; strawberry shortcake, and assorted fruit pies. 3633 Millbranch. 332-2367. L, D, X, MRA, $

SUMMER/BERCLAIR/ RALEIGH/BARTLETT ASIAN PALACE—Chinese eatery serves seafood, vegetarian items, dim sum, and more. 5266 Summer Ave. 766-0831. L, D, X, $-$$ ELWOOD’S—Casual comfort food includes tacos, pizza and sandwiches. Specialties include meats smoked in-house (chicken, turkey, brisket, pork), barbecue pizza and steelhead trout tacos. 4523 Summer. 7619898. B, L, D, X, $ EXLINES’ BEST PIZZA—Serves pizza, Italian dinners, sandwiches, and salads. 6250 Stage Rd. 382-3433; 2935 Austin Peay. 388-4711; 2801 Kirby Parkway. 754-0202; 7730 Wolf River Blvd. (Germantown). 753-4545; 531 W. Stateline Rd. 662-3424544 (check online for additional locations). L, D, X, MRA, $ GRIDLEY’S—Offers barbecued ribs, shrimp, pork plate, chicken, and hot tamales; also daily lunch specials. Closed Tues. 6842 Stage Rd. 377-8055. L, D, X, $-$$ LA TAQUERIA GUADALUPANA—Fajitas and quesadillas are just a few of the authentic Mexican entrees offered here. A bona-fide Memphis institution. 4818 Summer. 685-6857; 5848 Winchester. 365-4992. L, D, $

LOTUS—Authentic Vietnamese-Asian fare, including lemon-grass chicken and shrimp, egg rolls, Pho soup, and spicy Vietnamese vermicelli. 4970 Summer. 682-1151. D, X,

MORTIMER’S—Contemporary American entrees include trout almondine, chicken dishes, and hand-cut steaks; also sandwiches, salads, and daily/nightly specials. A Memphis landmark since the Knickerbocker closed. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 590 N. Perkins. 761-9321. L, D, X, $-$$ NAGASAKI INN—Chicken, steak, and lobster are among the main courses; meal is cooked at your table. 3951 Summer. 454-0320. D, X, $$ PANDA GARDEN—Sesame chicken and broccoli beef are among the Mandarin and Cantonese entrees; also seafood specials and fried rice. Closed for lunch Saturday. 3735 Summer. 323-4819. L, D, X, $-$$ QUEEN OF SHEBA—Featuring Middle Eastern favorites and Yemeni dishes such as lamb haneeth and saltah. 4792 Summer. 207-4174. L, D, $ SIDE PORCH STEAK HOUSE—In addition to steak, the menu includes chicken, pork chops, and fish entrees; homemade rolls are a specialty. Closed Sun.-Mon. 5689 Stage Rd. 377-2484. D, X, $-$$

UNIVERSITY NEIGHBORHOOD DISTRICT (INCLUDES CHICKASAW GARDENS AND HIGHLAND STRIP)

A-TAN—Serves Chinese and Japanese hibachi cuisine, complete with sushi bar. A specialty is Four Treasures with garlic sauce. 3445 Poplar, Suite 17, University Center. 452-4477. L, D, X, $-$$$ THE BLUFF—New Orleans-inspired menu includes alligator bites, nachos topped with crawfish and andouille, gumbo, po’boys, and fried seafood platters. 535 S. Highland. 454-7771. L, D, X, $-$$ BROTHER JUNIPER’S—This little cottage is a breakfast mecca, offering specialty omelets, including the open-faced San Diegan omelet; also daily specials, and homemade breads and pastries. Closed Mon. 3519 Walker. 3240144. B, X, $ CHAR RESTAURANT—Specializing in modern Southern cuisine, this eatery offers homestyle sides, char-broiled steaks, and fresh seafood. 431 S. Highland, #120. 249-3533. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ DERAE RESTAURANT—Ethiopian and Mediterranean fare includes fuul, or fava beans in spices and yogurt, goat meat and rice, and garlic chicken over basmati rice with cilantro chutney; also salmon and tilapia. Closed Monday. 923 S. Highland. 552-3992. B, L, D, $-$$ EL PORTON—Fajitas, quesadillas, and steak ranchero are just a few of the menu items. 2095 Merchants Row (Germantown). 754-4268; 8361 Highway 64. 380-7877; 3448 Poplar, Poplar Plaza. 452-7330; 1805 N. Germantown Parkway (Cordova). 624-9358; 1016 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-5770. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ JOES’ ON HIGHLAND—Specializes in fried chicken and comfort sides such as warm okra/green tomato salad and turnip greens. Entrees include salmon patties and chicken fried steak. Closed Mon. 262 S. Highland. 337-7003. L, D, X, $ MEDALLION—Offers steaks, seafood, chicken, and pasta entrees. Closed for dinner Sunday. 3700 Central, Holiday Inn (Kemmons Wilson School of Hospitality). 678-1030. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ OPEN FLAME—Authentic Persian and Mediterranean eatery specializes in shish kebabs and kosher and halal fare. 3445 Poplar. 207-4995. L, D, X, $

OUT-OF-TOWN TACKER’S SHAKE SHACK—This family-run establishment offers plate lunches, catfish dinners, homemade desserts, and a variety of hamburgers, including a mac ‘n’ cheese-topped griddle burger. Closed Sun. 409 E. Military Rd. (Marion, AR). 870-739-3943. B, L, D, $ BONNE TERRE—This inn’s cafe features American cuisine with a Southern flair, and a seasonal menu that changes monthly. Offers Angus steaks, duck, pasta, and seafood. Closed Sun.-Wed. 4715 Church Rd. W. (Nesbit, MS). 662-781-5100. D, X, $-$$$

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BOZO’S HOT PIT BAR-B-Q—Barbecue, burgers, sandwiches, and subs. 342 Hwy 70 (Mason, TN). 901-294-3400. L, D, $-$$ CATFISH BLUES—Serving Delta-raised catfish and Cajunand Southern-inspired dishes, including gumbo and fried green tomatoes. 210 E. Commerce (Hernando, MS). 662-298-3814. L, D, $ CITY GROCERY—Southern eclectic cuisine; shrimp and grits is a specialty. Closed for dinner Sunday. 152 Courthouse Square (Oxford, MS). 662-232-8080. L, D, SB, X, $$-$$$ COMO STEAKHOUSE—Steaks cooked on a hickory charcoal grill are a specialty here. Upstairs is an oyster bar. Closed Sun. 203 Main St. (Como, MS). 662-526-9529. D, X, $-$$$ LONG ROAD CIDER CO.—Specializes in hard apple ciders made with traditional methods. Cafe-style entrees include black eye peas with cornbread and greens, chicken Gorgonzola pockets, cider-steamed sausage, and housemade ice creams. Closed Sun.-Wed. 9053 Barret Road. (Barretville, TN). 352-0962. D, X, $

CASINO TABLES BOURBON STREET STEAKHOUSE & GRILL AT SOUTHLAND PARK—1550 Ingram Blvd., West Memphis, AR, 1-800-467-6182. CHICAGO STEAKHOUSE AT THE GOLDSTRIKE—1010 Casino Center Dr., Robinsonville, MS, 1-888-24KSTAY /662-357-1225. FAIRBANKS AT THE HOLLYWOOD—1150 Casino Strip Blvd., Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-871-0711. JACK BINION’S STEAK HOUSE AT HORSESHOE—1021 Casino Center Drive, Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-303-SHOE. LUCKY 8 ASIAN BISTRO AT HORSESHOE—1021 Casino Center Drive, Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-303-SHOE. SAMMY HAGAR’S RED ROCKER BAR & GRILL AT SOUTHLAND PARK—1550 Ingram Blvd., West Memphis, AR, 1-870-735-3670 ext. 5208 THE STEAKHOUSE AT THE FITZ —711 Lucky Ln., Robinsonville, MS, 1-888-766-LUCK, ext 8213. MANILA FILIPINO RESTAURANT—Entrees include pork belly cutlet with lechon sauce, and shrimp and vegetables in tamarind broth; also daily combos, rice dishes, and chef specials. Closed Sun.-Mon. 7849 Rockford (Millington, TN). 209-8525. L, D, X, $ MARSHALL STEAKHOUSE—Rustic steakhouse serves premium Angus beef steaks, seafood dishes, rack of lamb, and more. Breakfast menu features griddle cakes, and lunch offerings include hamburger steak and oyster po’ boys. 2379 Highway 178 (Holly Springs, MS). 628-3556. B, L, D, X, $-$$$ MEMPHIS BARBECUE COMPANY—Offers spare ribs, baby backs, and pulled pork and brisket, along with such sides as mac and cheese, grits, and red beans. 709 Desoto Cove (Horn Lake, MS). 662-536-3762. L, D, X, $-$$ NAGOYA—Offers traditional Japanese cuisine and sushi bar; specialties are teriyaki and tempura dishes. 7075 Malco Blvd., Suite 101 (Southaven, MS). 662-349-8788. L, D, X, $-$$$  PANCHO’S—Serves up a variety of Mexican standards, including tacos, enchiladas, and mix-and-match platters; also lunch specials. 3600 E. Broadway (West Memphis, AR). 870735-6466. 717 N. White Station. 685-5404. L, D, X, MRA, $ PIG-N-WHISTLE—Offers pork shoulder sandwiches, wet and dry ribs, catfish, nachos, and stuffed barbecue potatoes. 6084 Kerr-Rosemark Rd. (Millington, TN). 872-2455. L, D, X, $ RAVINE—Serves contemporary Southern cuisine with an emphasis on fresh, locally grown foods and a menu that changes weekly. Closed Mon.-Tues. 53 Pea Ridge/County Rd. 321 (Oxford, MS). 662-234-4555. D, SB, X, $$-$$$ STEAK BY MELISSA—Aged, choice-grade, hand-cut steaks are a specialty here. Also serving fresh seafood dishes, plate lunches, burgers, and sandwiches. 4975 Pepper Chase Dr. (Southaven, MS). 662-342-0602. L, D, WB, X, $-$$$ WILSON CAFE—Serving elevated home-cooking, with such dishes as deviled eggs with cilantro and jalapeno, scampi and grits, and doughnut bread pudding. 2 N. Jefferson (Wilson, AR). 870-655-0222. L, D (Wed. through Sat. only), X, $-$$$

The Memphis magazine Fiction Contest for Mid-South writers is back ...with a lean and hungry new look!

he Very Short Story Contest welcomes entries up to 750 words, maximum. Winning stories will be published in Memphis and will be archived on memphismagazine.com. Whereas the fiction contest was in years past a once-a-year event, the Very Short Story Contest will recognize the winning entry every month. The Very Short Story Contest is presented by Novel, Memphis’ newest independent bookstore. Winning authors will be honored with a $200 gift certificate at Novel.

CONTEST RULES: 1. Authors are strongly encouraged to bring Memphis or the Mid-South into their stories. How to do this is open to your interpretation. 2. Entries will be accepted throughout the year. The winning entry in any given month must have been received by the end of the second month prior (i.e. April’s winner must be received by the end of February). 3. Each story should be typed, double-spaced, and should not exceed 750 words. 4. With each story should be a cover letter that gives your name, brief author bio, address, phone number, and the title of your story. Please do NOT put your name anywhere on the manuscript itself. 5. Manuscripts may not have been previously published. 6. Manuscripts should be sent to fiction@memphismagazine.com as .doc, .rtf, or .pdf files. F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 9 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 79

LAST STAND

Express Yourself Pro football returns to Memphis, just in time for Valentine’s Day.

Mike Singletary

f the Alliance of American Football succeeds anywhere, it may well be in Memphis, Tennessee. The upstart professional league — eight teams, owned by the league itself — begins play this month, with your Memphis Express traveling to Birmingham to play the Iron on February 10th, precisely a week after Super Bowl LIII. When the Arizona Hotshots come to town for the home opener on February 16th, the Liberty Bowl may or may not be buzzing with anticipation. (Much will likely depend on the temperature, with kickoff scheduled for 7 p.m.) However the team is received, though, over the course of a 10-game regular season, the Memphis Express will aim to plant deeper roots than other gridiron offshoots that called the Bluff City home. A quick stroll by the tombstones of Memof a misguided lawsuit filed against the NFL by one Donald J. Trump. phis pro football would remind a fan of the Southmen (casually called the Grizzlies) of Since the Showboats, we’ve cheered the the World Football League, a team that lured Memphis Mad Dogs (also coached by Pepper future Hall of Famer Larry Csonka (of MiRodgers) for one season (1995) in the Canadiami Dolphin fame) from the NFL an Football League. The Memphis before folding in 1975, midway The Express roster Pharaohs brought actual camels to through its second season. the Pyramid during their two seais built less on The USFL’s Memphis Showsons (1995-96) in the Arena Footboats suited up their own future ball League. And lest we forget star power than Hall of Famer in sackmeister Regthe Memphis Maniax of the XFL regional ties. gie White. The ’Boats once packed (2001), founder Vince McMahon 50,000 fans into the Liberty Bowl (of pro wrestling fame) aims to for a game in June and averaged more than relaunch the operation in 2020. 31,000 fans for their 1985 season. But after All these teams have little to do with the falling a game short of playing for the USFL Express, of course, until we remember past championship, the Showboats disbanded is prologue, particularly when it comes to miwith the rest of the upstart league, victims nor-league sports. And especially in a venture

selling football during a time of year when much of the sports-watching American public is focused on basketball (if not joining the rest of the world on weekend mornings and watching soccer). You get the impression the Express had better win, and win early. Nothing shades novelty like a lengthy losing streak. And the Express may well win. The team will be coached by Hall of Famer Mike Singletary, to many the face of the most fearsome defense in pro football history (the 1985 Chicago Bears). Singletary found challenges as an NFL coach — he was 18-22 over parts of three seasons with the San Francisco 49ers — that he didn’t often face over his 12-year playing career. The AAF has a pair of coaches who have won national titles in college (Steve Spurrier with the Orlando Apollos and Dennis Erickson with the Salt Lake Stallions), but it’s unlikely any coach in this football experiment is more motivated to boost his resume than the man once known as “Samurai Mike.” As for the players, the Express roster is built less on star power than regional ties. You’ll find various positions manned by players from Tennessee, LSU, Tennessee State, Arkansas, Ole Miss, and yes, Memphis. (The team’s president, Kosha Irby, was a Tiger defensive back in the 1990s.) Every last one of these players would prefer suiting up in the fall for an NFL franchise. Which may make this team more distinctly Memphis than any outfit that came before. Bluff City hearts were broken in 1992 when Charlotte and Jacksonville (Jacksonville!) were given NFL expansion franchises, those vibrant Showboat nights long forgotten. When the “Tennessee Oilers” squatted for a single season (1997) at the Liberty Bowl, they were largely ignored for the cruel tease they were. Whatever we might say about the Express come April (when four teams will battle in the first AAF playoffs), this is our team, a Memphis outfit with a name long revered in these parts. Here’s hoping the underdog — and by that, I mean the entire eight-team league — finds a way to stir football culture. After all, that’s what we do in Memphis. The Express will host games on Feb. 16 (Arizona), March 2nd (San Diego), March 24th (Birmingham), March 30th (Orlando), and April 13th (Atlanta).

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY MEMPHIS EXPRESS / ALLIANCE OF AMERICAN FOOTBALL

by frank murtaugh

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