Memphis - January 2022 by Contemporary Media

F L OR IDA F E S T I VA L S | JOHN McIN T IR E | B A L A'S BIS T RO | W E DDING T R E ND S

MAGAZINE

VOL XLVI NO 9 | J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

9 0 1

H E A L T H

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USA $4.99

DISPLAY UNTIL FEBRUARY 10, 2022

YOGA &YOU

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Fall in Love at the Brooks With unique spaces filled with world-class art, the Brooks is the perfect setting for vows, love, and family. Make your wedding a masterpiece at Memphis' art museum.

brooksmuseum.org Open in Overton Park

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WA LT O N

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KINDLING BONDS While our 16 beach neighborhoods offer beyond-the-beach activities to please everyone in your circle, the focus keeps coming around to our sugar-white sand. Find your perfect beach at VisitSouthWalton.com.

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National Wear Red Day. Friday, February 4, 2022 #MemGoRed Help us turn the Bluff City Red on Friday, February 4th, 2022 as we take a stand against heart disease. Together, we can save the lives of mothers, daughters, sisters, and friends throughout the Mid-South community.

TAKE ACTION & GET INVOLVED www.Heart.org/MidSouth

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What is the only event in Memphis that

HEATS YOU UP and COOLS YOU DOWN?

Saturday, Feb. 5, 2022

TIGER LANE

Benefitting Special Olympics Greater Memphis

For more information visit specialolympicsmem.org

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YEAR START YOUR YOUR RIGHT NEW ST YEAR AR START NEW YEAR RIGHT RIGHT A & LASER WITH EDEN SPAYEAR & W START YOUR NEW RIGHT WITH EDEN SPA & LASER LASER WITH EDEN SPA & LASER TREA 2021’S TMENT BEST BODY SCULPTING TREATMENT

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COVER PHOTOGRAPH BY ELENA RAY - MICROSTOCK LIBRARY / DREAMSTIME

V O L X LV I N O 9 | J A N UA R Y 2022

UP FRONT 10 12 16 18 20

I N T H E B E G I N N I N G ~ by a n n a t r av e r s e f o g l e C I T Y S C E N E ~ by john pickle P A G E S ~ by j e s s e dav i s C L A S S I C D I N I N G ~ by michael donahue S I P S ~ by abigail morici

FEATURES

WEDDINGS

It’s A Lot More Than Just Saying, “I Do.”

Event planner Sheril Greenstein talks about wedding trends and traditions. ~ by a b i g a i l m o r i c i

ROAD TRIP

When Do We Go?

In choosing a time to visit the Gulf Coast, find a festival. ~ by c h r i s m c c oy

43 Remodel Memphis

Your 2022 guide to renovation and modernization. ~ by samuel x. cicci

901 HEALTH

Go With the Flow

Yoga can be a balm for your mind, body, and spirit. ~ b y s a m u e l x . c i c c i , a b i g a i l m o r i c i , a n d f r a n k m u r ta u g h

LOCAL TREASURES

John McIntire

From his Beatnik Manor to the Bitter Lemon, this artist, teacher, and collector has remained a catalyst of our city’s counterculture. ~ by a l e x g r e e n e

ASK VANCE

Lindenwood

Our history expert solves local mysteries of who, what, when, where, why, and why not. ~ by va n c e l au d e r da l e

DINING OUT

Bala’s Bistro

At a new location, Bala Tounkara shares his West African food and heritage with Memphis. ~ by s a m u e l x . c i c c i

20 Memphis (ISSN 1622-820x) is published monthly for $18 per year by Contemporary Media, Inc., 65 Union Avenue, 2nd Floor, Memphis, TN 38103 © 2022. Telephone: 901-521-9000. For subscription info, please call 901-521-9000. Subscription customer service mailing address is Memphis magazine, P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101. All rights reserved. • Periodicals Postage Paid at Memphis, TN. Postmasters: send address changes to Memphis, P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101.

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CITY DINING

LAST STAND

The city’s most extensive dining listings. Before and After

Sometimes we find ourselves stuck in between. ~ by a b i g a i l m o r i c i

JANUARY 202 2 • MEMPHISMAGA ZINE.COM • 7

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Memphis THE CI T Y M AGAZI N E

STANDARD OF EXCELLENCE SINCE 1950

General Excellence Grand Award Winner City and Regional Magazine Association 2007, 2008, 2010, 2014

Memphis Magazine’s

CEO AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF anna traverse fogle

FACE

MANAGING EDITOR frank murtaugh SENIOR EDITORS shara clark, jon w. sparks

ORIENTAL RUGS

CONTRIBUTORS jesse davis, michael donahue,

THE 2021

EXECUTIVE EDITOR michael finger

ASSOCIATE EDITOR samuel x. cicci

alex greene, vance lauderdale, chris mccoy EDITORIAL ASSISTANT abigail morici

4 EDITOR samuel x. cicci SENIOR EDITOR jon w. sparks

CREATIVE DIRECTOR brian groppe ADVERTISING ART DIRECTOR christopher myers GRAPHIC DESIGNER neil williams PHOTOGRAPHERS justin fox burks, samuel x. cicci,

houston cofield, michael donahue, anna traverse fogle, alex greene,

Hand Cleaning Appraisals Sales Reweaving Repairs Color Run Restoration Pet and other Stain Removals Moth Damage Odor Removal and much more Spread love, not germs by having your rugs disinfected.

Master Weaver Ali Taghavi restoring an antique Persian Farahan rug.

Here at Taghavi’s, we would like to do our part to help stop the spread of the novel COVID-19 virus. Recent studies have shown that the virus can be brought into your home, by your shoes and can live on surfaces like your rugs and floors anywhere from two to nine days. In order to help curb the spread, we at Taghavi’s, recommend that you stop wearing your outdoor shoes into your homes and to have your rugs cleaned and disinfected. Quality rug cleaning can only be accomplished by in-store professional rug cleaners. Call us for disinfecting and cleaning of your rugs.

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SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE sloane patteson taylor ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES kelli dewitt, chip googe,

michelle musolf, hailey thomas

published by contemporary media, inc. memphis, tennessee 901-521-9000 p • 901-521-0129 f subscriptions: 901-521-9000

CONTROLLER lynn sparagowski CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER jeffrey a. goldberg CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER margie neal DIGITAL SERVICES DIRECTOR kristin pawlowski MARKETING COORDINATOR kalena mckinney

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4 &7

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8 • MEMPHISMAGA ZINE.COM • JANUARY 202 2

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B E G I N N I N G | BY ANNA TR AVERSE FOGLE

Four Paws in the Present

ily Bear has curled herself in the shape of a fluffy croissant, snoot resting lightly on her two front paws, inner eyelids sliding shut. I would love to have inner eyelids, as dogs do: portable blackout curtains for naps or meditation. Breakfast arrived in her bowl several hours ago; her late afternoon walk and dinner are still several hours in the future. As good a time as any to rest. But her human (that would be me) is distracting her. In her infinite wisdom, Lily Bear has decided I work too hard.

Lily is a dog, yes, but she’s not opposed him on medication, I insisted on picking him to labor; she takes her responsibilities up to place him on the ledge where his bowls quite seriously. She lectures (read: barks sit, until one morning when he darted around her head off at) delivery workers, strange me in a circle and sprang up to snarf his kibble. He isn’t worried. He feels fine right now, humans, playful-looking dogs, and any large diesel-engined vehicle. She’s extremely dedi- and that’s all he needs to know. Our animal friends teach us to stay in the cated to the work of making sure no morsel of food hits the floor in our house, and of mak- present — even (especially?) when we’re ing doubly sure that if a single scared, or sad, when we’re grieving. My little pack crumb does fall, she reaches is down one dog; we lost it before her cat-brother can. When I leave home, she moni16-year-old Puck, the gentlest, tors the door until I return, at saddest-eyed Carolina dog, which time she bounds in cirlast fall. Puck declined slowly, cles around my legs. So much and then rapidly, and then one dedication to so many causes, night he reached the limits of his energy and was gone. Lily and yet still she thinks her human works too hard. The way I and Lucky were concerned can tell this: She has launched for him while he was ailing, a boycott of my laptop. and missed him after he left After nearly two years of me — they both seemed blue for Lily and the working from home at least a while — but have adjusted. dreaded laptop part of the time, Lily has conWe humans grieve differcluded that the laptop generates not only ently; I don’t know that we love any harder suspicious noises (click-clack, bleep-bloop), in the moment, but our big brains make the but also a miasma of stress. And so, start- letting-go process longer, thornier. My father ing sometime last fall, she began leaving the died in December 2020, way too young and room when I opened the laptop. Her indig- long before any of us were ‘ready.’ We’re never nation (you might call it dogged determina- really ready, are we?, to lose the people we tion) even leads her to move from upstairs to love most. Having some understanding of downstairs, or vice versa, to get as far away time beyond the present, we yearn to bend from the infernal laptop as caninely possible. time to fit our hearts, to hold onto the people That the four-legged creatures who live who anchor us until … well, forever. Both under our roofs have lessons to share is, it’s my parents are gone now, and because I am true, no great revelation. But especially after not a dog — no inner eyelids; too keen an the many instabilities of the past two years, I awareness of time — I struggle to reconcile myself to their absences. Which comes with find myself learning more and more from the animals who follow me faithfully around each the territory of being human: living with only day (unless I dare open the laptop). one foot in the present, we grieve the time Lucky Boots, who is a French nobleman that’s ended, and for who’s missing from the currently occupying the form of a longtime to come. haired tuxedo cat, was diagnosed recentMeanwhile, Lily goes on snoozing on the ly with a chronic ailment. The veterinari- fancy dog bed I’ve dubbed her lily pad. For an was shocked to hear that, despite some now, she’s content, and now is where she lives. I may never get to experience a day wacky-looking bloodwork, Lucky, age 12, has been acting very much himself: chasing shoe- as one of my pets, and I fear I’m stuck with laces, leaping up on high counters if he thinks the brain I’ve got. But she and her cat-brothhe may find interesting food scraps, stretch- er, and the birds in the trees, and the oposing out on the bedroom rug like a dog when sum on the fence — they remind me not to sunbeams pierce the windows. For a few days stray too far from where my feet are planted. Good teachers. after we learned of his condition and started

PHOTOGRAPH BY ANNA TRAVERSE FOGLE

Ask Questions. Get Answers!

T H E

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PROUDLY WELCOMES

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12/15/21 5:03 AM

C I T Y

S C E N E

The River Desert

Low water reveals a surreal landscape just below Memphis. PHOTOGRAPH BY JOHN PICKLE

Some people know this as Engineers Beach — because of the old Corps of Engineers station that stood nearby, at this bend in the river, on the Arkansas side south of the old bridges. When the water is low, a sandy landscape emerges, sometimes exposing the hulls of sunken barges, and visitors may feel they are closer to Mars than Memphis. 12 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

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PAG E S

Extending Grace Margaret Renkl’s Graceland, At Last explores “hope and heartache in the American South.” BY JESSE DAVIS

and heritage and stage fright, and about the time she finally made it to Graceland (at last). Her voice is as strong and welcoming as any I’ve had the good fortune to read, and when she writes about “driving over Monteagle Mountain with a cat latched to my head,” I felt as though I sat in the passenger side next to her, grooving along to a Paul Simon cassette tape in a “chugging old Pinto” buffeted by the wind. Most importantly, one feels that Renkl understands the South, or, perhaps paradoxically, she knows that the South defies total understanding or explanation. “I’m not the voice of the South, and no one else is, either, because in truth there’s no such thing as ‘the South,’” she writes. “The persistent and pervasive notion of this place as a homogeneous region, a conservative voting bloc, is as much a product of the American media’s imagination as any episode of The Dukes of Hazzard.” Hoping that her felicity with column-writing is catching, I spoke with Renkl about storytelling, journalism, and the New South.

MEMPHIS MAGAZINE: Have you always been a reader? MARGARET RENKL: Always. Even before I learned to read, I was completely desperate to know how. I felt so powerless, always having to wait for an adult to have time to read to me.

In the acknowledgments section of Graceland, At Last, you write about censorship of the student magazine and how that event prompted you to leave the South. That story — or a version of it — is so familiar. What makes Southern expats repatriate themselves? What keeps others from ever leaving? I wouldn’t want to speak for other writers, but for me the answer has something to do with simply getting older, I think. As a very young woman, I thought leaving the South would mean leaving behind everything the South so often gets wrong. What I learned in my brief time away is that every place gets crucial things very wrong — racism, for instance, is not a uniquely Southern trait — and that leaving home wasn’t going to mean ﬁnding Shangri La. More to the point, it’s possible to love what we get right here without forgiving what we get wrong. Maybe I realized I’d rather work toward a better South than be an expatriate forever. Or maybe I was just homesick.

Have you always thought of yourself as a storyteller? That one’s a little more complicated. I think most Southerners of my generation grew up in storytelling families, and I committed those stories to memory far earlier than I ever realized before writing my ﬁrst book, Late Migrations. But as a writer I was drawn to poetry ﬁrst and only came to prose much later.

Can you talk a little bit about the (excellent) title for the collection? The title of the Graceland essay itself is a simple reference to the fact that it took me 30 years to get to Graceland after moving to Tennessee. But I hoped that title would carry a little more weight as the title of the book. I wanted those words to convey a subtle sense of movement, even progress. In the South we are

Margaret Renkl

eaders of this magazine may know me as the book-review guy, but I’m also the editor of the Memphis Flyer. In that role, I write a weekly opinion column. As I have settled into the editor’s chair, I’ve looked to a few guides in my journey to become the best essayist I can be. Former Flyer editor Bruce VanWyngarden’s recent essay collection, Everything That’s True, has been indispensable. And I keep Margaret Renkl’s Graceland, At Last (Milkweed Editions) on my desk at home as a touchstone for inspiration. Renkl’s essays sparkle with wit, a wealth of wisdom, no few clever turns of phrase, and compassion for her subjects. Drawn from her op-ed column in Th e New York Times, the essays in the collection explore the politics and religion, ecology and environment, social justice movements, and art and culture of the South. Renkl writes about family, about America’s obsession with lawns, about protests

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PHOTOGRAPH BY HEIDI ROSS

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moving — slowly and not at all directly — toward the goodness I truly believe we are capable of. It was a lovely surprise to see Wendi Thomas and MLK50 come up in an essay devoted to the importance of journalism. Is there a correlation between some of the economic and social issues that impact the South and the rapidity with which newspapers have closed here? No doubt. As McKay Coppins writes in a recent issue of The Atlantic, “When a local newspaper vanishes, research shows, it tends to correspond with lower voter turnout, increased polarization, and a general erosion of civic engagement. Misinformation proliferates. City budgets balloon, along with corruption and dysfunction. The consequences can influence national politics as well; an analysis by Politico found that Donald Trump performed best during the 2016 election in places with limited access to local news.” I can’t put it any more clearly than that. And the South has lost more newspapers than any other region. What Wendi Thomas is doing is nothing less than heroic. She’s working to save American democracy. In “Reading the New South” you write about “celebrating the artistic innovations of the region but refusing to gloss over its manifold shortcomings.” Do you see Graceland, At Last as doing that work as well? I hope so. I truly, desperately, hope so. In some senses, to me at least, the “New” really means “Newly Visible.” The South is incredibly diverse, but that diversity hasn’t always been reflected in the “moonshine and magnolias” aspects of the region’s art, literature, and reporting. Am I way off the mark here? I think it’s worth making a distinction between the way the South is represented nationally and the way it’s represented here at home. I also think it’s worth noting, with any show or story or song,

who the target audience is. As a rule, mainstream productions — those aimed at an audience untroubled by stereotypes, even invested in stereotypes — rely on one of two Southern tropes: the rural idyll of church potlucks and cool green swimming holes, or the open racism and outright brutality of the Jim Crow era. Such representations, of course, aren’t entirely fictional. But the South, as you point out, is also more urban, more culturally and ethnically diverse, more artistically innovative than such stereotypes allow. And there are far more homegrown novelists and journalists and songwriters and poets and playwrights who are working to highlight that diversity and who are adding to that innovation than I could possibly enumerate in this space, or even in a weekly column. It seems that part of what allows for greater diversity in the South — particularly when it comes to artmaking — is that it’s not expensive to live here. But the nation is undergoing a housing crisis, as we also struggle with gentrification. Do you see these issues eroding access to this region? Another way of putting it, can the South ever lose its charm? Well, sure. Plenty of people would argue that it already has. Have you taken a walk down Nashville’s Lower Broad lately? People have been wringing their hands about the Walmartization of this country for a long time now, for extremely good reasons, and yet somehow there are still enough small towns and quirky little crossroads communities left to keep the South alive as a distinct, recognizable place. How long that truth will hold is harder to say. The places down here that have most visibly retained their Southern identity are also the places that grow smaller by the day as employment opportunities wither and young people move away from home. Would you talk a little bit about moving to Nashville? My husband and I had taken teaching jobs here and were planning to stay for

two years. That was in 1987. We made friends who will be our friends for life. We had three babies and raised them here. We planted trees. At this point it’s pretty clear I’ll be leaving Tennessee in a box. Tell me something you love about Nashville, or about Tennessee in general. The Middle Tennessee countryside — the fields, the forests, the rivers and creeks and little ponds — is so beautiful it takes my breath away. Is there something about Nashville — or Tennessee or the South — you would like to see change? That list is very, very long.

sible to live in a way that’s compatible with wildness — to keep our wild neighbors wild by protecting their habitat and living in a way that gives them room to be wild and free and magnificent. Would you talk a little bit about your use of your family members’ wedding rings as “talismans against fear” on your book tour? That was such a moving piece. It’s easy for me to forget that much of what I experience as stress is something my ancestors — who survived wars and droughts and floods and fires and every imaginable kind of medical crisis — would have found almost laughable. Wearing their wedding rings reminds me to set my own worries into a bigger context.

Speaking of change, I loved the tone of “These Kids Are Waiting for Change,” in which you write about young Nashville residents who organized a peaceful protest in support of the Black Lives Matter movement. A year and a half later, do you still feel there’s reason to hope? I spend a lot of time actively looking for reasons to hope, and the thing about looking for something is that sometimes you actually find it. The George Floyd protests were not followed by the huge cultural transformation that so many of us deeply hoped for. But the guilty verdicts in Ahmaud Arbery’s murder give me hope that all is not yet lost.

What’s it like writing an opinion column about the South for The New York Times? Do you have to keep two audiences in mind? It makes sense that I would, but I don’t generally think about my role that way. I try to write as clearly, as accurately, and as persuasively as I possibly can. After that, I just hope for the best. The Times is truly the country’s newspaper of record, with subscribers from all over the country — all over the world, really — including here in the American South. Some of them are going to agree with me, and some of them aren’t, and that’s the beauty of a robust national discourse.

Your story “The Fox in the Stroller” really resonated with me. Would you agree that the best way to show our appreciation for wildlife is to do all we can to ensure they stay wild? It’s human nature to want to be close to animals because we evolved together as neighbors. The trouble is that we now live in a way that’s unnaturally divorced from the creatures we share the world with. So it’s very hard for many people to resist the desire to tame a wild squirrel or to adopt an orphaned baby bird. But this longing to be close to wildness never makes it right to keep wild animals as pets. The best response to a longing for wildness is to work as hard as pos-

When you were writing these essays, was there a point when you realized you would collect them in a book? Did that change the way you approached the individual essays? I would not have dreamed of proposing a book like this myself and never considered that possibility as I was writing these essays. It was Caroline Que, the editorial director for book development at the Times, who had the idea for a book, and I’m grateful she did. It was lovely to step off the treadmill of a weekly column long enough to put together a carefully considered, better organized record of what my homeland really means to me.

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C L AS S I C

D I N I N G

Meatloaf at Peggy’s Just Heavenly Good Home Cooking Honey is a not-so-secret ingredient in this popular dish. BY MICHAEL DONAHUE

eggy Brown will tell you one special ingredient she uses in her meatloaf at Peggy’s Just Heavenly Good Home Cooking: “The sauce that we put on the meatloaf has got honey in it. But I’m not going to tell you everything that’s in it.”

Her meatloaf, which is served on Tuesdays and Fridays, is one of Brown’s most popular items. They make “8 to 10 sleeves” of meatloaf on those two days, she says. “Each one of the sleeves is anywhere from 12 to 15 slices.” Her family used honey a lot in cooking when she lived in Arlington, Tennessee, says Brown, 73. “Back in the day, when I was growing up, honeybees had nests in hollow trees. And my dad and his friends would go out and smoke the bees out and grab the honey real quick — four or five buckets.” Her grandmother, Eliza Jubirt, rubbed meat with honey to ten-

derize it. “She used honey for everything,” Brown tells me. True to family tradition, honey isn’t just in her meatloaf sauce, Brown says. “You put the honey in the meat with eggs and bread crumbs and all that.” Brown’s meatloaf recipe came from Jubirt. “My mother was a good cook, but my grandmother was a great cook.” Her grandmother lived in Hernando, Mississippi, before moving to Arlington to live with Brown’s family. “She cooked in a big house down there for the folks in Mississippi for a long time before she came here.” Jubirt wasn’t living “per se

in slavery time,” Brown says. “Slaves had been set free, but even though they were free, a lot of things didn’t change. She was down there on the farm and she worked up in the big house. So, that’s where she did all her cooking until she left.” Her grandmother cooked and took care of Brown and her two brothers. “While my mom and dad worked out in the cotton fields, my grandma was always in the house. She saw to us because we were little kids. Cleaned up, washed us.” As for making meatloaf, Brown says, “Whenever she had the meat, she would do it.” They raised the meat on their farm. “Back then, Dad killed the pigs and cows, and she would grind up the beef in a sausage grinder.” Her grandmother then served the meatloaf with “smothered potatoes, cabbage, or

collard greens — always something green with it.” Brown keeps her grandmother’s memory alive every time she’s in the kitchen. “All the food, basically, is my grandmother’s recipe. That’s why everybody keeps wanting me to write a cookbook. Everybody worries me to death: ‘Peggy, write that cookbook.’ That’s because they want to know the recipes. People that eat our food aren’t used to food like that.” Then there are the customers who remember yams and collard greens cooked the way they are at her restaurant, Brown says. “I’ve had people sit in this restaurant and have tears run down their face and say they haven’t had food like this since their grandmother or their mama died. “We do old-style cooking. Not this new-style stuff. It’s scratch. You see what we’re doing. People slicing up sweet potatoes, cutting up greens, cutting up cabbage, slicing up squash when we can get it, fresh lima beans, peas, cornbread. We make our bread from scratch. We don’t use that canned-bagged-box stuff.” The effort put into the food prepared in the kitchen at Peggy’s Just Heavenly Good Home Cooking isn’t something Brown sees young people doing these days. “They work an hour and a half and they’re half dead,” she says. “We can work all day long and be all right. I don’t understand it. I guess we were made out of that good stuff.” Peggy’s Just Heavenly Good Home Cooking is at 942 East E.H. Crump Boulevard.

PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAEL DONAHUE

Peggy Brown serves up a plate of meatloaf with yams and collard greens.

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S I P S

Sweet Magic

Sugar Ghost Ice Cream and Bubble Tea is whimsical, colorful, and fun. BY ABIGAIL MORICI

cleaned out my pantry last weekend, alphabetized the spices, crammed all the plastic grocery bags into one plastic grocery bag, and threw out a bag of tortilla chips that expired in February 2020. And in doing my inventory of all the goods, I realized that my diet is quite … beige. Pasta, potatoes, crescent rolls, grits. Beige, beige, beige, and more beige on beige shelves against a beige wall.

But then to reward myself for my two hours of organizing, I stepped into the heaven that is Sugar Ghost Sugar Ghost Ice Cream and Bubble Tea. Once just a food truck, the sweet little bright pink shop has found its home as of October 2021 on Broad Avenue. Once inside, I floated to the counter to order — and I mean floated, because how could you not f loat in a room with ballet-pink walls and baby-blue tables and twinkly lights wrapped around skeletons seated in the booths? So whimsical and fun, and so not beige. The counter itself looked like a confection straight out of Candyland with pastel, sprinkle-themed wood-panellng. I stood on my tippy-toes to order (not because the counter was too tall, but because I felt like I was in a magical realm that I would’ve dreamed of as a wee one who always stood on 18 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

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her tippy-toes). At first, I was in melted ice cream, the leftovers of tempted to order a chocolate a birthday party where guests leave milkshake or a scoop of chocowith a sugar high. Perfectly sweet late ice cream — my and a win for not giving go-to order at a place How could you not into the temptation to like this — but after float in a room with order ice cream. a beige day, I need- ballet-pink walls and Every time I took a ed something new, baby-blue tables and sip, a fit of anticipation something colorful. I twinkly lights wrapped overtook me — would asked the kind lady this sip be a sip that culbehind the register around skeletons minated with a tapioca for her recommen- seated in the booths? ball in my mouth? It’s dation for bubble So whimsical and fun, like when you’re bowltea, something out of and so not beige. ing and you’re waiting my normal creature for the bowling ball to comforts. “Taro,” she said. “It’s roll down the return track — you purple.” Say no more, my friend. know that when the ball returns, I’ll take it. you’re ready to play the game. And When she handed me the when one of the tapioca balls hits purple concoction, she flipped the roof of your mouth and your the cup over, a clear plastic film teeth break through the gummy, keeping it from spilling out, the sugary goodness, you have won tapioca balls swimming around the game. in the drink like blobs in a lava My pal, who joined me on this lamp before sinking back to the adventure, ordered the Classic bottom. I’m not sure what the Black Milk Tea, and I sneaked a flipping did, but I was mesmersip when said pal wasn’t looking. ized and ready to sip and slurp The tea lived up to its name; it had the drink away. a very classic tea taste, if it isn’t Considering that I chose the too vague a description to say a drink purely for its colorful tea tasted like tea. But it wasn’t appeal, the taro bubble purple. It was beige, and I was in a purple mood. tea was an absolute delight. It’s a milk-based And my Taro drink did indeed tea, I was told, but it satisfy my purple mood, so much so tasted like sprinkles that I returned to Sugar Ghost only that had been soaked a few days later to try yet another drink. Once again, I was craving some color on a beige day. This time I went for a fruit tea — the Passion Fruit with popping pearls. The warm-hued pearls broke easily as I swished them in my mouth along with the sweet orange-colored drink. My first sip of the sweet orange drink triggered a memory of dressing up in my mom’s clothes for a themed day at preschool, her wicker handbag resting in the crook of my elbow. Maybe it was the colors of the drink that reminded me of the pattern of her skirt, but I swear the drink tasted like playing pretend in your mom’s skirt. Though, one might argue that the tea has a passion-fruit flavor. Regardless, the whimsical flavors of bubble tea at Sugar Ghost will sit on your tongue long after your last sip or last pop of boba — a ghost of sugary flavors past that will keep you away from a beige purgatory. Sugar Ghost is located at 2615 Broad Avenue, 901-425-2479. PHOTOGRAPH CREDITS: TOP LEFT BY STEFANIE RAWLINSON; BOTTOM BY ABIGAIL MORICI

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84 N. Main

Collierville, TN 38017

901.861.7111

www.FirstFruitCollection.com

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W E D D I N G S

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PHOTOGRAPH BY VLADIMIR FLOYD / DREAMSTIME

12/14/21 9:20 PM

It’s A Lot More Than Just Saying, “I Do.” Event planner Sheril Greenstein

talks about wedding trends and traditions. BY ABIGAIL MORICI

fter two years of rescheduling and postponing wedding dates, 2022 is set to be the year of weddings, although no one can truly predict how the pandemic will shape this year. But as Covid dashed wedding plans and expectations during the last two years, it also highlighted, as cheesy as it sounds, what really matters — the love and commitment between two individuals. Their ideal wedding might not have happened on the ideal date, at the ideal venue, with the ideal number of guests, but their commitment persisted. They might have postponed or held a small outdoor gathering or simply logged onto Zoom with an officiant. Now, as we look forward to a year calmer than 2020 and 2021, we are left wondering: What will weddings be like in a world shaped by the pandemic and its aftermath? We reached out to event planner Sheril Greenstein of Shindigs by Sheril to get her take, and what we realized in doing so is that weddings, as we know, are always shifting in expectations and traditions. Within the past decade, social media has helped the bride and groom share new wedding ideas and educated us about certain wedding traditions or venues. We’ve seen weddings get more expensive, more personalized. We’ve also seen couples marrying later in life, venturing away from traditional church weddings, writing their own vows, and so much more. Here’s what we learned.

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W E D D I N G S left: Sheril Greenstein of Shindigs by Sheril puts passion behind each of the weddings she plans and executes.

below: The pandemic has pushed couples to incorporate measures that prioritize health and safety, such as giving guests personalized masks and hand sanitizer as favors.

what makes each event so special. No cookie-cutter weddings. The relationships I make with each client are what makes what I do not just a job but a passion.

Do you think the concept of the “perfect” wedding day has changed?

How long have you been a wedding planner? What got you into the job and what keeps you staying with it? I have been a wedding and special events planner for almost 20 years. I have always been artistic and incredibly organized and voluntarily coordinated every type of gathering for friends and family, but it wasn’t until a friend reached out about planning his wedding that I took it seriously. I’ve never looked back since. I love the creative challenge as well as the opportunity to meet and truly get to know so many incredible brides and grooms and their families during the planning process. Every event is unique to that client, and that is

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My job is to make a bride’s vision come to life — however that might look and whatever that might take. Whether their preference is classic, contemporary, or completely unique, we consider every element and logistical detail to make it possible. The “perfect” wedding day, in my opinion, is about setting expectations and executing them in a way that leaves my couples completely at ease! There is nothing I won’t do for my clients. Whatever it takes to get it done. In the world of Instagram we see weddings that are over the top and not realistic for most. You don’t have to have it all — no one rarely does. It is about what elements are the most important to you to make it special.

PHOTOGRAPH CREDITS: TOP LEFT COURTESY SHERIL GREENSTEIN; TOP RIGHT BY PETR POHUDKA / DREAMSTIME; BOTTOM LEFT BY LISA F. YOUNG / DREAMSTIME

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4538 Poplar Avenue, Laurelwood Shopping Center Memphis, TN 38117 Monday - Saturday 10:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m. or by appointment (901) 763-0700 • www.babcockgifts.com •

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W E D D I N G S left: Couples have been opting for smaller, more intimate, outdoor weddings, especially at the onset of the pandemic. Of course, a back-up plan is suggested in case weather conditions go awry.

below: Pets are the newest, and perhaps most welcome, addition to the traditional wedding party. Some of them even dress for the occasion.

What types of venues have couples been favoring recently? What do you see going ahead?

to keep in mind a weather plan — rain, extreme heat, or extreme cold may pop up at any time in the Mid-South, so planning ahead makes the difference. People are ready to celebrate again! We used to be able to plan on 20 percent of invited guests to respond with regrets, but now we are seeing closer to only 10 percent “no’s.”

Because of the pandemic, many couples have pivoted to smaller weddings — sometimes just a couple and their officiant on Zoom. Do you see weddings continuing on this track of smaller weddings?

I have planned every style and size throughout this pandemic. In some cases, we’ve had to change their wedding date four different times, impacting venues and vendor and guest counts! While wedding party sizes are growing again, many are taking precautions that make them feel most comfortable. Many still prefer outside venues, small individual-plated stations versus serve-yourself buffets, as well as personalized hand sanitizers and masks. Now with vaccines and boosters, there is a sense of comfort to being able to gather again. However, no matter the number of attendees, I think we’ve all embraced that it’s less about the crowd and more about the significance of the milestone.

Many are preferring an option with outdoor patios or lawns. Memphis has so many venues in this category from The Dixon and Memphis Botanic Garden to Loflin Yard, Wiseacre, and Old Dominick Distillery. We just have 24 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

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PHOTOGRAPH CREDITS: COURTESY SHERIL GREENSTEIN

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GERMANTOWN Historic Church Love yesterday, today and forever.

It seems like the time between the proposal and the wedding ceremony has stretched out over the years (with longer engagements to plan weddings). Does that assumption line up with your experience? How do you see the current state of affairs playing a role in a couple’s “planning timeline”?

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Photo Credit: Allison Fay Photography

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Planning timelines have been elongated out of our control due to Covid restrictions, but I do my best to help these couples embrace the wait. Otherwise, the average remains about 12-16 months for wedding planning. I love getting the call as soon as the proposal takes place, but I can work within any timeline to secure vendors and details. The current state of Covid requires us to be ready to push, rush, or reevaluate at any point. Being flexible is most important, but we can make it happen! The industry is coming back with a vengeance. I am finding newly engaged couples who need to wait just to find a date open for the vendors they want.

PHOTOGRAPH BY BERKUT34 / DREAMSTIME

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Your cocktails should be as special as your day!

How have the actual wedding dates changed, if at all? I read that there’s been a rise in weekday ceremonies and a rise in small ceremonies on one day and a large reception on another — has that been the case in your experience?

During Covid, we’re seeing couples who held intimate, Zoom-only ceremonies in 2020 and a one-year anniversary party blowout; we’re also seeing Friday and Sunday weddings continue to grow due to venue calendars being more constricted with the volume of 2020 and 2021 postponements.

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Over the years, have any traditions gone out of style? Are there any that you are sad to see go? Any that you’re glad are gone? What new traditions (if any) have emerged? The new year is here and I am so excited for the opportunities that await! As the real estate market continues to thrive, I look forward to being your number one resource. If you are looking to buy or sell a home in the new year, it would be my honor to serve you in 2022!

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I do love the artistry of an extravagant wedding cake, but I have also been working with brides and grooms who prefer different desserts and sweets over cake, such as Gibson’s Donuts or custom cookies. We also see many dogs/pets participating in the ceremony versus traditional flower girls or ring bearers. The creativity, however, is endless! Many of my brides are forgoing the bouquet and garter throw. Why stop the party? Wedding photo booths are growing. I love the black-and-white glam booth for a formal black-tie wedding. Everyone wants photo ops! PHOTOGRAPH BY TODD KUHNS / DREAMSTIME

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Pair the Perfect Day with the Perfect View With numerous unique ceremony and reception options, the Hyatt Centric Beale Street Memphis provides the perfect backdrop for your special day. Both the indoor and outdoor spaces feature unrivaled views of the Mississippi River, as well as the iconic Hernando de Soto Bridge’s nightly light show. Learn more at www.hyattcentricbealestreetmemphis.com or contact us directly at 901-444-5555 or memct.rfp@Hyatt.com.

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How has the rise of social media and the plethora of wedding information/ inspiration online impacted the landscape of weddings?

Social media has completely changed the game — in a good way, I think. I love getting latenight texts or Instagram messages from my brides with links to flower inspirations or an invitation style they prefer. Yes, the plethora of options can be overwhelming, but it is my job to help the couple narrow down and make decisions that make the most sense for them, their venue, and styles.

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How has wedding attire for guests changed over the years? What about decorations? What about food?

The wedding attire is absolutely dependent upon the couple’s wishes and vibe they want to create, whether a black-tie ballroom scene or outdoor barn-style celebration. Many choose a black-tie or cocktail attire wedding but a fun casual rehearsal dinner and/or “post toast.” A Memphis barbecue theme is always a favorite for out-of-town guests. Creative food trends we continue to implement include late-night snack surprises and Covid-safe single-serving bites (versus shared buffets). PHOTOGRAPH BY CHRIS HUMPHREYS / DREAMSTIME

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You know she’s w th it!

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W E D D I N G S left: For loved ones who can’t make the date, the introduction of a virtual component to the ceremony has allowed them to share in the special day, no matter where they are.

below: Weddings have become more personalized to incorporate the couple’s passions, styles, and tastes.

In your experience, have there been any non-traditional ways people have incorporated their passions or their personalities in their weddings? Do you have any suggestions for couples who want to make their weddings feel personal?

Now, from the food choices to their pets as well as their specialty cocktails, we want to make sure this wedding is all about the couple.

After 20 months of extreme loss and uncertainty, how have people been able to include loved ones who have passed on or can’t make the wedding?

For loved ones who cannot travel, the virtual option has allowed those to celebrate and witness the ceremonies from afar. For those who are no longer with us, I love working with the families to pay tribute. We have included names in the programs, displayed or utilized heirlooms in the ceremony, created a gallery wall of portraits in the reception space, and even found creative ways to tie jewelry and/ or mini-portraits into the bride’s bouquet or look. I recently worked with one groom who lost his mom, so he is dancing with his sister to a song that reminds them of her. Every detail of a wedding should be a personal experience for the couple.

I always encourage my brides to find ways to weave in their passions. It used to be that the most personal part of the wedding was the groom’s cake, displaying his hobbies or favorite sports teams.

It seems that more couples are highlighting sustainability in their wedding. Do you see that here in Memphis?

In Memphis, we have a wonderful organization called 901Pop. We schedule them to arrive at the end of the night to repurpose all of the leftover flower arrangements that otherwise end up in the trash. They place them in vases and deliver them to retirement homes and hospitals with a note from the bride and groom.

What’s your number-one best piece of advice for couples planning their wedding?

This has always been my belief: Remember that this wedding is not about the weather or the flowers or the food; it is about why you are here. You are marrying the person you plan to spend the rest of your life with, build a family with, and love and respect! Everything else is just the icing on the cake! 32 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

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PHOTOGRAPH CREDITS: TOP LEFT THANAKORN PHANTHURA / DREAMSTIME; TOP RIGHT BY HUGO MAES / DREAMSTIME; BOTTOM LEFT UNOPIX / DREAMSTIME

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R OA D

T R I P

GO? W HE N DO W E

Trying to decide when to visit the Gulf Coast? Find a festival! BY CHRIS McCOY

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PHOTOGRAPH BY ALESSANDRO BIASCIOLI / DREAMSTIME

12/13/21 10:52 AM

t’s no secret that the Gulf Coast is many Memphians’ favorite place for a getaway. The Emerald Coast, a stretch of white sand beaches along Florida State Route 30a, is a simple day’s drive (or short flight) away. The weather is usually great, even in the off-season, and the amenities are abundant. As you plan your family’s vacation excursions for 2022, you may be asking yourself when is the best time to head to the Gulf Coast? You can plan your trip around breaks and holidays, of course, but if you’re flexible with your schedule, you can find the perfect time and spend less on lodging. One factor to consider in timing your visit is events. The calendar is packed with fun and interesting activities that go beyond swimming, sunbathing, and seafood. Here’s a sampling of the best upcoming concerts, sporting events, and festivals along the Gulf Coast.

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R OA D

T R I P

The 30A Songwriters Festival attracts top musical talent to the Gulf Coast January 14-17.

ince its inception in 2010, the 30a Songwriters Festival has become one of the premier musical events in the Southeast. The festival began in 2010 as a fundraiser for the Cultural Arts Alliance of Walton Count, and this year’s event takes place January 14-17. The emphasis here is on song craft. Plenty of big names have played the Songwriters Festival over the years: The Beach Boys genius Brian Wilson; ’70s superstars Jackson Browne, Graham Nash, Don McLean, and Heart’s Ann Wilson; rough and tumble folk-rock legends like

MUSIC BY THE SEA Richard Thompson, Steve Earle, and the late John Prine; pop rockers Cheap Trick and The Bangles; heartfelt singers like Suzanne Vega, Joan Osborne, and Ani DiFranco; and down-home country crooners like Tanya Tucker and Grace Potter. Many Memphis-area musicians, like the North Mississippi Allstars, Amy LaVere, and John Paul Keith also make a pilgrimage to the annual festival, which fills amphitheaters and beachside venues all along Route 30A. This year’s festival headliners include a Memphis legend. As a

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member of the Staples Singers, Mavis Staples recorded a string of inspirational hits for Stax Records in the late ’60s and early ’70s. She can be seen singing a stirring duet with Mahalia Jackson at the 1969 Harlem Cultural Festival in the recent documentary Summer of Soul. She has recorded with everyone from Prince to Jeff Tweedy, and once broke Bob Dylan’s heart by turning down his proposal of marriage. Sharing the spotlight with Mavis are Chris and Rich Robinson, who founded the Black Crowes in 1984 and rocked America

with “Remedy” and “She Talks to Angels.” In 2013, the Robinson brothers ended their partnership after a 12-album run — and reportedly vowed never to speak to one another again. The 30a Songwriters Festival show will be their first public reunion since the acrimonious breakup. Emmylou Harris returns to 30a as a living reminder of the pure soul of country music. The 14-time Grammy winner has performed everywhere from The Ryman Auditorium to Lilith Fair, and her beachside festival set is sure to be unforgettable. PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY SOUTH WALTON EVENTS

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FOOD AND WINE

f you’re looking for a culinary experience, February, March, and April are good months to hit the coast. Vintners gather in Alys Beach February 23-27 for the 30a Wine Festival. This year’s event is about more than just the fruit of the vine. In addition to the inaugural fourcourse wine dinner by chef Kevin Cavanaugh at Caliza Restaurant, a champagne and oysters concert in central park, and Saturday’s centerpiece Grand Tasting with more than 80 wines, there’s also a rum dinner, a mixology seminar, and the irresistibly titled “Bourbon, Beer & Butts.” The tenth annual festival benefits the Florida Children’s Volunteer Health Network. A strong connection has always existed between the Gulf Coast and nearby New Orleans. The biggest coastal celebration of the Big Easy’s cuisine is the Sandestin Gumbo Festival at

Baytowne Wharf in Miramar Beach, which runs March 1718. You can taste all of the varieties of the classic dish, from chicken and sausage to seafood, with a light roux or a dark one, or something in between, made by restaurants up and down the coast, and vote on the best one for the People’s Choice award. And not just that — over the 33 years that the Sandestin Gumbo Festival has been stewing and brewing, another competition has sprung up. The Best Bloody Mary at the Beach trophy is just as hotly contested as the gumbo. It’s going to be a spicy weekend. April 21-24 also presents travelers with the South Walton Wine & Food Festival. The event fills the Grand Boulevard with wine and song, and is one of the largest events of its kind in the nation. The Grand Tasting on Saturday and Sunday features more than 800 wines from all over the world.

The 20th annual Seaside School Half Marathon will bring thousands of athletes to 30A on February 20.

GET ACTIVE

s we see every winter in Memphis with the St. Jude Marathon, dedicated runners will travel far and wide to compete against their peers and personal best. The Gulf Coast hosts two half-marathons. The first one is the Seaside School Half Marathon & 5k, which celebrates its twentieth iteration on February 20. This year’s return to in-person running will feature a new course that sends the thousands of expected runners east from the Seaside community, giving them views of what will hopefully be

a spectacular sunrise. The race weekend begins with a Taste of the Race event, which welcomes the runners to the historic community. The second big running event is in October. The 30a Half Marathon & 5k is a three-day celebration that brings hoards of road runners to the famed stretch of beachside highway. If you’re not that intense of a runner, there’s always the CVHN Smile Mile and 5k at Marina Park in nearby WaterColor. The May event benefits the Children’s Volunteer Health Network.

From the 30A Wine Festival to the Sandestin Gumbo Festival, cuisine is an oft-overlooked Gulf Coast attraction. PHOTOGRAPH CREDITS: TOP COURTESY SEASIDE HALF MARATHON / BOTTOM COURTESY SOUTH WALTON EVENTS

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S T I A W A E A D V E N T U R to Home

VILLAGE CREEK STATE PARK

se P i c k a Pa r k C l o JAC K S

ONPO

RT STA T E PA R

Looking for new adventures for your family and friends? Arkansas state parks are just a short drive away. Plan your adventure at ArkansasStateParks.com. Pick up your FREE PASSPORT at the nearest state park today.

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12/14/21 5:05 PM

Vettes at the Village on March 26 draws fans of the American muscle car.

CLASSIC CARS

or car enthusiasts, the Gulf Coast offers several options. The Vettes at the Village celebration, which revs up March 26, brings a bevy of Corvettes to the Village of Baytowne Wharf in Sandestin. Presented by the Playground Corvette Club of Fort Walton, the gathering of the classic American sports cars is officially sanctioned by the National Corvette Museum. In October is Cruisin’ the Coast, one of the biggest gatherings of classic cars in the nation. Thousands of vehicles of all shapes and sizes come together in Biloxi, Mississippi, to ride the roads of the Gulf Coast in style. You’ll see everything from vintage fire trucks to custom street rods, drag racers to pickup trucks, and everything in between. The Cruisin’ the Coast crews, who number more than 9,000, truly care about their cars, and their joy is catchy.

us at } Visit

www.memphismagazine.com PHOTOGRAPH BY JEFF DOWNES / DREAMSTIME

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12/14/21 5:03 PM

There are many ways to help kids who stutter...

ART AND DANCE

ay is the time to visit the dependence Through Public Art. And in Seacoast for art lovers. That’s South Walside, the Longleaf Writer’s Conference, which ton Art Month, the Cultural Arts Alliance’s takes place May 14-21, will bring New York celebration of the humanities. Events include Times bestselling nature essayist Aimee NeUnder The Sea, a fundraising ball for the Unzhukumatathil and novelist Maurice Carlos derwater Museum of Art. About a mile offRuffin as the visiting artists for the weeklong shore of Grayton Beach State Park, the sculpgathering of scribes of all levels. The beachside architecture of Alys Beach ture garden is the only one of its kind in the United States. features lots of T he U M A’s t ropic a l wh ite sculptures are wal ls. It tur ns all desig ned out to be a perto attract mafect medium for a relatively new rine life, and art form. Projecwil l eventually become a tion-mapping artliving artistic ists use digitally artificial reef. manipulated video The to bring inanimate ArtsQuest surfaces alive. The May is South Walton Art Month, with events projects can create Fine Arts Fescelebrating the visual arts and literature. soothing scenes or tival (May 7-8) brings more than 100 ceramics, fiber, glass, mind-bending illusions. You’ve probably seen and fiber artists together for a juried show this during Olympics opening ceremonies at the Grand Boulevard Town Center in or in monumental works on the sides of skyscrapers. The Digital Graffiti Festival brings Sandestin, awarding $10,000 in cash prizes. some of the most cutting-edge digital artists The theme for the third biennial Rosemary Beach Sculpture Exhibition is Caring About in the world down to street level, in one of Tomorrow: Exploring Environmental Interthe most beautiful communities in the South.

Doing nothing is not one of them! Anglers set sail in June for the Emerald Coast Blue Marlin Classic fishing tournament.

THE

STUTTERING FOUNDATION

A Nonprofit Organization Since 1947—Helping Those Who Stutter

800-992-9392 StutteringHelp.org tartamudez.org

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OCEAN ADVENTURE

f course, the Emerald Coast is most famous for the incredible seafood that comes from the area’s clear blue water. These communities started out as fishing villages, and their legacy lives on today in the area’s biggest annual event. The Emerald Coast Blue Marlin Classic sets out from the Sandestin Golf and Beach Resort June 22-26. On shore during

this tournament are cooking demonstrations, f ireworks, and live music. But the real action is on the ocean. More than $2 million of prizes are at stake as some of the best anglers in the world compete for the ultimate catch. It’s a unique event that defines the height of the season, and celebrates the strengths that make the Emerald Coast famous all over the world. PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY SOUTH WALTON EVENTS

12/14/21 5:03 PM

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12/15/21 12:08 PM

Be better in 2022. See your doctor and start the New Year off right!

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AN APPOINTMENT

Baptist is helping families find the right care at the right time by offering more options for scheduling appointments. You can conveniently find a primary care doctor and book an appointment that works with your schedule by visiting baptistscheduling.com or calling 844-837-2433. Baptist Medical Group patients may also set up virtual visits through the MyChart app or by visiting mychart.baptistonecare.org. Get better with Baptist.

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12/15/21 5:33 AM

REmodel

M E M P H I S

Your 2022 Guide to Renovation and Modernization

Getting the chance to put a unique stamp on a new home can make the downsizing process more fun. In our newest issue of Remodel Memphis, one homeowner – with the help of RKA Construction – turns a Chickasaw Gardens townhouse into the perfect example of a modern abode, complete with new styles, fixtures, and amenities, both indoor and outdoor. Read on for our 2022 guide to making the most of your space. P H O T O GR A P H Y C O UR T E S Y RK A C O NS T RU C T I O N

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@rkaconstruction

Chairman’s Message By Hunter Cooper Chairman, Remodelers Council of WTNHBA

re you dreaming of an updated kitchen or an outdoor living area? Have you been putting off those window replacements or that new roof? Maybe you just want a fresh paint color for your bedroom. No matter the size and scope of your project, the Remodelers Council of the West Tennessee Home Builders Association can help! Here’s how to get started:

CUSTOM HOMES | RENOVATIONS l ADDITIONS

901-465-3400 | rka.build

Gather your ideas. Start your search for inspiration by browsing your favorite Pinterest boards and home improvement sites and save ideas in a folder or vision board as you research to help develop your remodeling plans. Identify the fixtures, textures, and materials you like. Consider how space will function and whether your new design will fit within the existing floor plan. Determine your budget. While it’s tough to determine precisely how much a renovation will cost this early in the process, establishing a budget ceiling will allow you to start getting in touch with professionals. Visit the “Find an Expert” section of westtnhba.com and click “Get Started” to request a proposal from one of our experts. We look forward to helping you increase the beauty, functionality, and value of your home!

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12/15/21 11:19 AM

Have you looked at your trees lately? President’s Message By Mark Miesse

President, West Tennessee Home Builders Association

f you’re like most Americans, the pandemic forced you to spend more time in your home. Maybe you got the itch to make some changes to a room to make it more functional. Or perhaps you decided to transform your backyard into an outdoor living space. If you’re considering a DIY project, the first question to ask yourself is whether it’s more cost-effective to do it yourself or hire a professional. Before tackling any remodeling project, ask yourself the following questions: ◗◗ Have you ever undertaken a project like this before? ◗◗ Do you have the tools you’ll need to complete the project? ◗◗ Do you know where to obtain the necessary materials? ◗◗ Are you familiar with the applicable building codes and permits? ◗◗ Do you enjoy physical labor? ◗◗ Do you have the time and resources to learn the skills needed? ◗◗ Should the project take longer than expected, are you and your family prepared to handle the inconvenience? ◗◗ Do you understand all the safety issues (i.e., lead paint, asbestos, or job-site dangers)? ◗◗ Are you familiar with the architecture and structural makeup of your home (i.e., how knocking down one wall will affect the rest of the structure)? ◗◗ Have you considered the possibility that you may actually decrease the value of your house if the result isn’t up to a professional standard? It is easy to look at the cost of hiring a professional remodeler and think only of labor and materials. But remember that a professional remodeler offers years of experience, the right tools, a network of suppliers and subcontractors, and in-depth understanding of legal regulations, cost estimating, scheduling, and the latest construction techniques and materials. The West Tennessee Home Builders Association represents licensed and insured remodelers who will get your job done correctly the first time. To find a list of Remodelers, go to www. westtnhba.com.

Make Sure Your Trees Are Healthy and Safe Give your trees a preventative checkup to make sure they can weather the storms ahead. Call today for a free estimate.

WE KNOW MEMPHIS TREES! 901-363-3539 robinsontree.net

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12/14/21 9:57 PM

Interior Reimagination at Chickasaw Gardens A complete interior renovation makes downsizing a fun opportunity for one homeowner. By Samuel X. Cicci

hen it comes time to downsize, choosing a smaller home doesn’t mean skimping on quality. For one homeowner, pursuing a change of scenery provided the perfect opportunity to completely overhaul her new Chickasaw Gardens property. With help from RKA Construction, architect David Anderson, and designer Selena McAdams, the twentieth-century home now has all the interior flourishes of an ultra-modern abode. Built in 1988, the Chickasaw Gardens property was still in decent shape, and its location and existing pool were very appealing to the homeowner. However, much of the interior felt dated, and the house had never been renovated before. In the kitchen, specifically, many of the cabinets, countertops, and fixtures looked less-than-contemporary, while an L-shaped island took up more space than it needed, making the room feel small. Many of the doorways around the home had narrow openings, which made for a tight squeeze when going from one room to the next. The homeowner was referred to RKA Construction, who began the renovation process in September 2019, led by project manager Larry Dawson. “She bought the home with the intention to downsize,” says Dawson, “and she contacted us to fully renovate the entire interior. We’re talking about gutting the kitchen, the bathrooms, refinishing the hardwood floors, repainting the entire house, and adding in new tiles. In the end, we touched every surface of this house.” For the kitchen, Dawson and his team completely gutted the old space, removing all the old cabinetry and appliances and demolishing the oddly shaped island. The new design, centered around a brand-new island placed firmly in the center of the kitchen, gave the area a much more open and spacious feel. A hanging chandelier in the center of the room helped provide plenty of light, while the overall look was spruced up via new paint and the installation of white cabinets from HS Carpentry. He also installed a farmhouse-style concrete sink, accentuated with an antique gold-colored faucet from Ferguson Plumbing. “We also added some new appliances,” explains Dawson, “including a very nice Viking French door oven.” For the ceiling, Dawson went with tongue-and-groove planks with an off-white color scheme.

BEFORE

AFTER

RIGHT: The initial kitchen space was still in decent shape, but the overall layout lacked modern sensibilities. An L-shaped island jutted into the center of the room, making it feel much smaller than it actually was. RKA redid it from the ground up. The new kitchen revolves around a centralized island boasting a farmhouse concrete sink and an antique gold faucet. The renovation also includes state-of-the-art appliances, including a Viking French door oven placed in the wall. 46 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

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BEFORE

AFTER

Close to the kitchen, the dual butler’s pantry and laundry room got a major overhaul. Originally, the room had a washer and dryer with cabinetry built around them. Dawson replaced the appliances and the cabinets and made a few extra additions. Now the room boasts its own dishwasher, sink, and oven for when the kitchen gets crowded. Other big changes came to the master bedroom and bathroom. Dawson describes work on the bedroom as a “facelift,” and the first task was redoing the electrical system. The room initially had one center fan with a light, so RKA upgraded the wiring and installed several recessed cans to provide more lighting. “We also added custom paneling on the walls,” adds Dawson. “There’s a chair rail about a third of the way up the wall, and some paneling below that which has been trimmed out and repainted in.” But tackling the master bathroom required another rework right down to the studs. The centerpiece is now a large soaking tub, shaped almost like a concrete bowl and made out of the same materials used to produce the new kitchen sink. “I think this is the first time I’ve installed a tub like this,” says Dawson, “but it’s a very nice tub that we installed next to the new walk-in shower. We weren’t able to make it zero-entry because of the shape of the room, but it’s a nice curved design with a marble apron and curb, glass walls, and shower door.” A light mosaic floor tile sequence carries through the entire bathroom, and seamlessly extends past the curb and into the shower. Meanwhile, the shower walls are lined with calming white tiles, against which the new brushed brass faucet and fixtures pop. “It just looks really sharp in there,” says Dawson, “alongside the new cabinetry, double sinks and vanities, and new toilet.” Even for rooms that didn’t see wholesale changes, the homeowner still came up with some personal touches that vastly improved upon the original design. In the back living room, RKA spruced up an existing fireplace and added a new mantle. But the most eye-catching feature, placed just opposite the fireplace, is the enormous bookcase that runs along one of the walls. A custom millwork project, it runs almost the entire length of the wall, providing both utility and an aesthetic boost.

LEFT: The homeowner left no part of the interior untouched. Before, the home’s plain touches made for a functional, if unimpressive, aesthetic, while narrow doorways made it tough to maneuver. The new sitting room (pictured below), for example, has been upgraded with brighter furniture, new lighting, and an upgraded fireplace. But the most distinguishing characteristic is the custom-built bookcase, which runs along the back wall and provides both functional and decorative use. J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 47

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BEFORE

AFTER

ABOVE LEFT: The existing outdoor pool was just one of the reasons that the homeowner chose this house. However, the back area needed some work; the former washed concrete surface would have to go, and new landscaping was in order to spruce up the home’s outside space.

While the homeowner wanted much of the work to focus on the interior, RKA did make some changes to the outdoor pool. “The original pool deck consisted of a washed concrete surface and a rear terrace area,” says Dawson. “So we demolished all that, poured a new foundation, and laid FireRock over the entire surface. Then we put new coping around the pool and freshened up the rest of the tiles around the pool surface.” RKA also updated the landscaping outside, installing new garden beds and new plants. The Chickasaw Gardens renovation took about eight months to complete, from September 2019 to mid-April 2020. Dawson says that overall, the project was a very smooth process, with the homeowner and designers all working in sync.

ABOVE RIGHT: RKA demolished the old tiles, poured an all-new foundation, and laid FireRock over the entire surface. The crew also installed new coping around the pool, freshened up the rest of the tiles to create that modern white aesthetic, and went to work installing brand-new garden beds and plants.

“We didn’t have too much trouble with anything,” he recalls. “We did have to do some creative problem-solving to redo all the electrical wiring and plumbing; since it’s a townhome that shares a wall with another property, there was some critical thinking involved, but even then it wasn’t too bad.” Now, the homeowner is happy in her updated Chickasaw Gardens home that boasts plenty of new amenities. “There’s a really modern touch to the place now,” says Dawson. “You look at a lot of the ﬁxtures, and the brassy and gold ﬁnishes are very popular these days. We have a lot of modern tile colors, a lot of whites and neutrals in there. It’s really just a modern freshening up of the house.”

Remodel Supplier List BRICK AND MASONRY MATERIALS: Christie Cut Stone Co. – 382-6242

HOME DESIGN: David Anderson – 786-8494

CABINETS: HS Carpentry & Design – 327-7379

INTERIOR DESIGN: Selena McAdams – 682-5513

COUNTER FABRICATORS: Countertops of Memphis – 614-0200

LIGHTING: Graham’s Lighting – 274-6780

DRY WALL: John Setzer, Sr. – 609-4596

LUMBER AND MILLWORK: Grandview Windows + Doors – 383-1600

ELECTRIC: Graham’s Lighting – 274-6780 / Ellendale Electric – 382-0045

MIRRORS AND SHOWER GLASS: McKenzie and Pair Glass Co. – 362-5440

EXTERIOR DOORS: Grandview Windows + Doors – 383-1600

PAINTING:

FLOORING/HARDWOOD: FLOORING/TILE:

MidSouth Flooring – 494-2030

Venice Tile & Marble – 547-9770 / Long Tile & Marble – 358-2157

HVAC: Waller Heating and Air – 466-8118

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Williamsburg Home Services – 614-3100

PLUMBING INSTALL:

Roberson Plumbing – 385-8393

PLUMBING FIXTURES: Ferguson Enterprises – 759-3820 TILES:

Venice Tile & Marble – 547-9770 / Long Tile & Marble – 358-2157

P H O T O GR A P H Y C O UR T E S Y RK A C O NS T RU C T I O N

12/14/21 9:57 PM

Graham’s for your Home

WTNHBA Remodelers Council Members List 2022

Cordova Showroom

THRIFTY BUILDING SUPPLIES

8150 Macon Rd. Cordova, TN 38018 901.757.2465

Hunter Cooper, chairman - (901) 465-3400 hcooper@thriftybuilding.com ART GETTINGS CONSTRUCTION

Art Gettings - (901) 605-9178 artgettings@gmail.com

Midtown Showroom 550 S. Cooper Memphis, TN 38104 901.274.6780

BYRNES OSTNER INVESTMENTS

Tommy Byrnes - (901) 681-0499 tommy@byrnesostner.com CATMUR DEVELOPMENT COMPANY

Lighting | Outdoor Living | Hardware Midtown & Cordova

Eric Catmur - (901) 680-8200 eric.catmur@gmail.com CATMUR DEVELOPMENT COMPANY

J›ohn Catmur - (901) 680-8200 catmurdc@comcast.net

grahamslighting.com

Serving the Mid-South for over 60 years.

CENTRAL WOODWORK

Hours: Monday-Friday 8:30 am - 5:00 pm Saturday 9:00 am - 1:00 pm

Alan Hargett - (901) 363-4141 ahargett@cenwood.com COLONIAL ELECTRIC COMPANY

Cory Wheat - (901) 356-1026 cory@colonialelectriccompany.com DAVE MOORE COMPANIES

Dave Moore - (901) 870-7372 dave@davemoorecompanies.com DESIGNER MILLWORX

Mark Beck - (901) 610-8226 designermillworx@gmail.com DESIGNER WHOLESALE KITCHEN BATH AND FLOORS

Destiny Herter - (901) 563-8989 designerwholesalefloors@gmail.com JA CONTRACTORS LLC

Joel Enochos - (901) 286-2342 joel@jacontractors.net

home remodeling has never been easier!

JOHN HEARD COMPANIES

John Heard - (901) 756-6167 jheardhomes@gmail.com MIDTOWN CABINETRY & MILLWORK

Tommy Peeler - (901) 485-3316 tommy@midtownmill.com PPG PAINTS

Todd Becker - (901) 297-3158 tmbecker@ppg.com REVIVAL RESTORATION SERVICES

Scott Trimble - (901) 401-8500 info@revivalstore.com SAVAGE TILE COMPANY

Ned Savage - (901) 363-9607 savagetileco@bellsouth.net SOUTHERN SCREENS/PHANTOM SCREENS

Mike Reilly - (901) 758-2121 mike@midsouthphantom.com WILLIAMSBURG HOME SERVICES

Drew Kimberlin - (901) 614-3100

Memphis Magazine’s

THE 2021

FACE OF

KITCHEN & BATH

MINIMAX Kitchen & Bath

DESIGN + BUILD | REMODEL | RENOVATION KITCHEN • BATH • HOME 901-386-6868 | www.minimaxdesign.com

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12/10/21 5:35 PM

ITH THE FL W G N I OW GO

Yoga can be a balm for your mind, body, and spirit. BY SA MUEL X . CICCI , A BIG A IL MORICI , A ND FR A NK MURTAUG H

anuary is a month when many of us turn our attention to health, to a “new you” and all that. A yogi, though, would ask us to pause long enough to consider: Why not a new you every month? Every day, even. We asked

three writers to enter the world of yoga and share their distinctive experiences. Namaste.

PHOTOGR APH BY MONKE Y BUSINESS / DRE AMS T IME

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12/14/21 1:49 PM

Lift and spread your toes, then apply pressure to the floor, first with the outsides of your feet, then with the insides. You’ll feel different muscles (inner thigh and outer) activate as you shift the pressure. Muscles will contract around your pelvis and sacrum (lower back). We use these muscles every day, with every step we take … but we rarely focus on them. Feeling — identifying — the subtle contractions of muscle triggered by movement (or merely the application of pressure with our feet) is internally liberating.

Am I breathing?

Karen Moss has spent the better part of two decades teaching and practicing her passion at Better Bodies Yoga.

FOCUSING AND FEELING AT BETTER BODIES YOGA

ure yoga can heal us — mind, body, and spirit — in theory. But what if you reach middle age (I’m 52, well into it), and the only mat in your life is the one you step upon when leaving your house? I paid a recent visit to Better Bodies Yoga, where owner/instructor Karen Moss made it very clear that I’m not too late for the benefits of this ancient, cleansing form of exercise. “If you can breathe, you can practice yoga,” explains Moss, who opened Better Bodies in 2004, yoga having played a life-changing (and career-changing) role in the aftermath of her father’s death five years earlier. “Spiritually,” asks Moss, “what better relationship can you have than the one you have with yourself? Yoga deeply rooted me in my own beliefs. It’s not just movement. It’s to clear the fluctuations of the mind. Yoga gave me patience, and tolerance for other people. You never master it. The world of yoga is so immense … but it helps make you a complete person.” I entered my first yoga session looking for answers and, with Moss’ attentive guidance, departed with three central questions.

Am I aligned?

Our bodies are most certainly not aligned when reclining on a couch, slumping over a keyboard, or tilting left (or maybe right) when walking our dog. Our intricate collection of bones — and the tissues that connect them — has a design, and we must pause now and then to focus on ways we might be neglecting that structure. Take off your shoes and socks. (If you can’t see your toes when practicing yoga, you’re not fully engaged.) Sit down on the edge of a firm chair, and place a light block (or small pillow) between your thighs, both feet firmly on the floor. Now take measure of your position. (Note: This is quite sedentary, but yes, it is an asana, a body posture for yoga.) If your pelvis were a flower pot, would it hold water … or are you tilted? Are your knees aligned with your hips? Are your toes — focus on the two closest to your big toe on each foot — aligned with your knees? 52 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

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The answer to this question needs to be yes, of course. But am I — are you — breathing fully, breathing entirely, truly breathing right? A deep breath slows our heart rate and steadies our circulation system. We know this as a stress-management technique for public speaking, or a big at-bat in an important baseball game. But how often do we focus (that word again) on the breaths we take, how deeply we take them, and how smoothly we release them? When you take a deep breath, does your belly move forward? If so, you can breathe better by allowing your diaphragm (rib cage) to expand gradually as you inhale. Tighten your abdominals, and let the oxygen fill your lungs to capacity. Proper breathing makes me feel like a picture of Superman, showing off that big “S” on his chest. During one stretch, I audibly grunted, and Moss admonished me: Replace the grunt with a gentler, though still audible, exhale. I did so, and the discomfort became part of the asana, and less aggravation to my system. Treat yourself to a dab of eucalyptus oil on your upper lip, just below your nostrils. The powerfully pleasant scent will help you measure the depth and length of a breath — always through the nose — and remind you that the process, while automatic, can be rewarding like no other.

Am I mindful?

However brief or lengthy your yoga session, make time for savasana, the resting pose that concludes your experience. It’s a quiet “thank you” for both your mind and body. I found a comfortable position on my back, legs and head slightly elevated. Moss covered my eyes with a warm towel, and the darkness rather took me. My job is one of deadlines … and they vanished. A lingering pandemic left my consciousness for a few precious minutes. What time was it? Didn’t matter. Moss quietly talked me through the process: “Notice the sensation of releasing tension. Instead of thinking, just feel the sensations of your body releasing, letting go. You can bring awareness to any part of your body that’s holding tension. We have a hard time when we try to relax, because the mind wants to be distracted.” Quite the opposite of distracted, I returned to a sitting position, my legs crossed. Facing Moss, I extended my arms, then brought my hands together in front of my chest, elbows out, a person comfortable in mind, body, and spirit. Namaste. You can discover yoga, and yoga can discover you. There’s a small display on an upper shelf in the Better Bodies lobby, and its message grabbed me as I left the studio: “Be afraid not to try.” — Frank Murtaugh PHOTOGR APH BY HOUS TON COFIELD / COURT ES Y BE T T ER BODIES YOGA

12/14/21 1:49 PM

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Downtown Yoga’s Vinyasa Flow class, led by instructor Morgan Stritzinger, focuses on faster-paced movements which provide flexibility and cardiac training. The fluid nature of the class ensures that no two classes are alike.

right: Any Body Yoga founder Yo Clark credits yoga with helping her recover, both physically and mentally, from a severe workplace injury.

VINYASA FLOW AT DOWNTOWN YOGA

y experience with yoga had been limited; I’d never really pursued the practice, and only dabbled when required to during the track and field season. But that was when I was a younger man, much more athletic and limber, and without the baggage of several season-ending hamstring tears, a sprained ankle, and other niggling injuries every regular 29-year-old picks up during, say, a high-stakes game in an adult kickball league. So it was with some trepidation that I “volunteered” to take part in our editorial crew’s yoga sessions. My final decision came down to whether I’d pursue Hatha or Vinyasa yoga, but I eventually settled on a Vinyasa Flow class at Downtown Yoga, which seemed a suitable entry point for a novice. And when speaking with owner Joanna Michelle Harris after the class, my decision felt right. “Vinyasa will move at a faster-paced flow,” explains Harris. “which heats up the body and provides both flexibility and cardiac training, and varies between instructors. The movements flow with exhale and inhale. I liken the constant movements focused around breathing to tai chi.” I flipped open my laptop at 6 a.m. to dive into my first-ever virtual yoga class, not quite sure what to expect. Instructor Morgan Stritzinger slowly eased the class into position, and from there, we embarked on a fluid, interchanging rotation of poses and stretches for the duration of the 45-minute class. There were a few I recognized from past experiences, like downward facing dog, tree pose, and warrior pose. It was a far cry from the stilted and subdued home video yoga routines I’d been required to follow years ago for track. The Vinyasa Flow class kept me on my toes (both figuratively and literally) as we constantly shifted, but not at too much of a hurried pace. The flow, I think, kept my attention more than a slower-paced class might. As an ex-sprinter, the quick shifts made the class more exciting to me personally, where I worried that more prolonged exercises might have caused me to zone out. My biggest struggle during the class was keeping

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my breathing front and center. For some of the more unfamiliar poses, I became so focused on getting my shape right that I fell out of a breathing rhythm, exhaling when I should have been inhaling, or at times just forgetting to breathe at all. But luckily, I had Morgan, who gently continued to offer reminders to focus on breathing, and guiding the class when inhale and exhale during our movements. That might be secondhand for all the seasoned yogi out there, but it kept me focused on my rhythm. I came out of the 45-minute session feeling pretty good, if a bit sore from my first real stretching routine in a long time. Plenty of poses helped loosen my back muscles and hamstrings, among other areas. For anyone interested in dipping their toes into yoga, but are too nervous to walk into a class for the first time, the virtual option is a great place to start. It was still really easy to follow along with the movements via Zoom, and if you keep your camera turned on, the instructor can help with making sure you have the proper shape. Harris filled me in on some of the other benefits of Vinyasa. With its quicker pace and pose-swapping, the routines can act as low-intensity cardio workouts, build strength and endurance, and improve stability and balance. Another benefit that everyone could use after these last couple of years is reduced stress and anxiety. Overall, the Vinyasa Flow class felt like a great starting point for returning to some semblance of my former athleticism. I felt the burn, in a good way, for a few days after taking the class, but never felt like I’d pretzeled myself into a position from which my now-inflexible body could ever unfurl. While Hatha might be considered a better entry-point for beginners, the faster-pace Vinyasa provided exactly what I wanted from a session. It certainly felt tough, and there were some poses that I struggled to form, but who knows? Perhaps with enough practice, maybe even I could one day graduate to the advanced class. — Samuel X. Cicci

FINDING SANGA AT ANY BODY YOGA

on’t You (Forget About Me)” plays as I unfurl my yoga mat at Any Body Yoga. It’s a Friday at 7 p.m., and I have signed up for TGIF Community Yoga, my first time exercising in public since before Covid, my first fitness class since 12th-grade P.E. — if you could even consider P.E. a fitness class. Since those high school and pre-Covid days, I’ve been diagnosed with social anxiety, which can help explain my relationship to exercise. I’m not athletic; I have

PHOTOGR APH CREDIT S: TOP LEF T BY JOANNA MICHELLE HARRIS; BOT TOM RIGHT BY JUS T IN FOX BURK S / COURT ES Y ANY BODY YOGA

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bad knees, terrible hand-eye coordination, and a knack for clumsiness. But my anxiety demands perfection from myself at all times, so I have a true disdain for exercising around other people, having them see my objectively ungraceful movements, my body’s inability to hold a pose, its inability to remain balanced, its inability to be perfect. So on this Friday evening, I have already worked up an anxiety-induced sweat before I even step foot into the studio. But when I do and I hear Simple Minds playing softly on the speaker, I sing the lyrics in my head, a memory game to see if I actually know them or if I only think I do. It takes my mind out of the moment and brings it to recall the final scene of The Breakfast Club. Later, when I ask Yo Clark, the class instructor and owner of Any Body Yoga, about her use of music at the beginning of the class, she says that she had to stop the playlist once class started. “Otherwise, you’d be in downward dog and I’d be thinking about the lyrics or thinking oh, I haven’t noticed this beat before, and you’d just stay in downward dog,” she says. I understand that sentiment. Yoga isn’t a time for distraction; it’s a time to observe your body, your breath, inhale, exhale. “Be curious, not judgmental,” Clark begins the class. She attributes the quote to

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cat, cow, chair, warrior. “Extend your leg a bit more,” Clark says to me. I reject the instinct to be frustrated with myself, the instinct to judge myself more harshly than I deserve. Be curious, not judgmental. Let’s see how far I can extend my leg, what parts of my legs feel the stretch, does it feel good, do I need to shift my foot over, forward, backward? “I believe that everyone can do yoga in one form or another,” Clark says. “When I first started out at my first classes, what stood out to me was the community in that room. It makes it more meaningful, so not only are we physically moving together but we are spiritually moving together. And it’s very important to me to have that sanga.” Sanga, spiritual community, uplifts the individual without judgment and pushes the individual to try with the knowledge that

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what we treat In each session she leads, Clark focuses on instilling sanga — a spiritual community — to uplift the individual without judgment. failure is success’ complement, not its enemy. Be curious, not judgmental. Clark adds, “Another quote I really love is from Pattabhi Jois who was instrumental in bringing yoga to the West: ‘Practice and all is coming.’ “Those two quotes will get you through any yoga class,” Clark continues. “As humans we find it hard to wait on ourselves. We will go stand in line in the rain for the latest iPhone without a care in the world, but if someone asks you to sit for a moment and observe your mind and your breath and your body, people feel like you’ve asked them to sit for 20 hours and they’ve been sitting for two minutes. We’ve become very impatient with ourselves, but our yoga practice can help us learn to be patient with ourselves just as we are in the moment.” As we finish up our class, we bow our heads, hands in prayer pose. I feel lighter, my shoulders not so tense. I want to feel anxiety-free, but I know it’s lurking inside me. But be patient, I remind myself, don’t expect perfection. Practice and all is coming. So I promise myself I’ll practice and return to the studio, where I can continue to learn to be curious. — Abigail Morici PHOTOGR APH BY JUS T IN FOX BURK S / COURT ES Y ANY BODY YOGA

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LOCAL TREASURES

JOHN Mc INTIRE

From his Beatnik Manor to the Bitter Lemon, this artist, teacher, and collector has remained a catalyst of our city’s counterculture. BY ALEX GREENE

any Memphians know John McIntire, and you can bet he knows most of them back, including the students he encountered during a quarter-century of teaching painting and sculpture at the now-defunct Memphis College of Art (MCA). There may not be another soul among us who so exudes conviviality, nor a mind that can catalog so many names, dates, and facts: never quite fixed, but suspended as in a slow-motion whirlwind, held in place by McIntire’s creative will and eye for detail. “I can remember everything everyone says,” he tells me matter-of-factly. “My father could, too.” His memory becomes apparent as he guides you through his home in Cooper-Young. From a yard like a sculpture garden that’s seen better days, he leads you inside, as if entering an archaeological site, where McIntire peels back the strata of piles of papers, books, or sketches. Or polished rocks. Or fine china. Or wind-up toys. Or — it goes without saying — more sculptures. He’ll then recall nearly every detail of any photo or sketch or curio from those stacks. Unlike so many who struggle with a fading memory, his has seemingly

grown more powerful over his 86 years. All of which makes McIntire’s residence a veritable national heritage site — or should, given his role as a catalyst and curator of the Memphis counterculture, to say nothing of the acclaim he’s won as a sculptor. A saner world would earmark his many collections for the Smithsonian, and if that seems a bit out of touch, there’s much in his approach to life that may lead you to question the world’s lucidity, not his.

ack in tiny Wellsville, Ohio, his father would joke that they found baby John on a rock. That mythic beginning is

PHOTOGRAPH CREDITS: TOP RIGHT BY ALEX GREENE; OTHERS COURTESY JOHN MCINTIRE

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quite in keeping with the surreal childhood that he remembers. “I’ve been drawing since I was five,” he says. “My first paints came from the city dump. I was living with all the Italian kids and Black kids. We played in the city dump all the time, and I found little boxes of pastels from France, and little teeny tubes of oil paints. I found out later they had come from the TruTagg Paint Company in Memphis. Anyway, I gave them to my mother and she put them away, because I was too young to know what to do with them.” Most of the ten McIntire kids played sports except John’s eldest brother, who had a passion for art. “He was an artist who was going to draw for Walt Disney. He didn’t play sports like my other brothers did. I played baseball.” He also had a knack for engine repair, and when a Chicago millionaire landed his private plane in a nearby field, John’s brother, Morgan, only a month away from graduation and his job with Disney, helped him with engine repairs. The millionaire took a liking to him J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 61

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and offered him a ride, a thrilling prospect in small-town Ohio, circa 1940. “My mother tried to make him stay home, and not go out to see this airplane in the cornfield,” McIntire recalls. Her trepidation was all too justified when the plane took too many loops too close to the ground, and both pilot and passenger were killed. “My older brother died in that crash when I was five. My mother told me about it, and said, ‘He was falling out of the sky.’” Something about the trauma caused McIntire to turn to the art Morgan had so loved. He thought of the paints he had found at the dump. “My mother had put them in the sewing machine drawer,” he says. “I knew they had something to do with art. So just after my brother had died, I went and got them out. She had an antique table she got from her mother, with big fancy legs, and I copied one of the legs with the oil paints.” Wellsville was also home to a ceramics industry. “There were like, 14 sterling china shops up and down the river there,” says

McIntire is rarely seen without a vintage Hawaiian shirt. right: He never stops working; a recent sculpture in his Midtown home. McIntire. “And they’d give me clay and plaster and stuff. I’d get my little wagon and drag it down. And then I saw a Life magazine with a story about Michelangelo, and the head of David on one of the pages, so I copied that in clay. I copied the head of David, down to the curls and everything. My mother couldn’t believe it!” In fact, the whole town was soon taken with the talent this young artist revealed, eventually taking up a collection to send him to the Carnegie Institute of Technology, now known as Carnegie-Mellon University. While he didn’t take to that, he wound up studying at the nearby College of Steubenville, then the Cleveland Institute of Art, and finally at the Cranbrook Academy of Art in Michigan. And if none of those institutions ended up bestowing a degree on McIntire, he did just fine without one, thanks to the freewheeling spirit of what was then known as the Memphis 62 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

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Art Academy, and the man who’d directed it since 1949.

hat impulse came to full flower as he settled into Memphis. Having identified with those on the margins of society since his days playing in the Wellsville ed Rust hired me in 1961,” McIntire recalls of the man who would be his boss dump, he took that openness to the next level for years to come. “He just called me up. I as the sixties wore on. As local filmmaker and comic artist (and former McIntire didn’t know where I was going. I didn’t have student) Mike McCarthy notes, “I didn’t any degrees or anything. He said, ‘We heard about you. Just come down here.’ know the first thing about John, personalSo they flew me down. My ly, until I read Robert Gordon’s book, mother and father were It Came From Memphis. And then I panicky, because my thought, ‘That was my teacher?’ brother was killed He had all these interests in the in an airplane. But counterculture, and yet was oldmy father put a er than the counterculture, really.” Gordon’s book traces the evolution suit on me, and my mother made me of the underground arts and music a tie. She ran in the scene in Memphis, a sort of shadow house and made a tie real world lurking behind the shiny pop fast! She could really sew. success of Sun and Stax Records, She raised all of us kids growing out of folk and blues by her sewing. My father fandom and an abiding interest was a Dapper Dan. in psychedelics. And McIntire, it “So they put me on the airturned out, was at the heart of plane in Pittsburgh,” he conthat scene. As with much in his life, his dreams helped tinues. “You had to walk all the way out to the airplane, and him find his way. my mother was crying. And “Up in Michigan, I had a my father was there. Almost dream about having a cofno one else was on the airplane. feehouse with folk singers I told the stewardess, ‘This is and all this stuff,” he says. exciting! I’ve never been on a So there was a shock of e H . ru like a non-gu as plane before!’ Then I could recognition when a new w re ti n e, cI ls “M dy e hear two men talking up at the friend of his in Memphis than everybo r e ld o it b a is as and th e ey al front of the plane, and the stew- w casually remarked, “We su vi reat ess.” he had this g n d ir e ardess came to the back and she ought to start a coffee w r fo rance s e unlimited tole im was terrified. house.” That would beT rk Yo mer, New “I said, ‘What the heck is come the Bitter Lemon, — Robert Pal wrong?’ She said, ‘We’re flying a tiny place tucked into a row of shops at Poplar and Humes, which became ground zero for over a tornado.’ But we were above it, and you the folk music crowd that was coalescing here. could see this big, flat black thing, everything swirling. I just thought that was fantastic! It Meanwhile, McIntire’s own home in Overton reminded me of a flea in a big bale of cotton. Square (where Ballet Memphis stands today) beI said, ‘Can I take this seatbelt off ?’ And she came a hub in its own right, with the unassuming said, ‘I don’t care what you do!’” art teacher welcoming any and all who wished to crash there. Those words perfectly foreshadowed the life he was to enjoy in Memphis, which he In Gordon’s book, the late musician and New has very much lived with the seatbelts off. York Times music critic Robert Palmer describes At the MCA, he joined other teachers who the milieu: “McIntire was like a non-guru. He became iconic names in the Memphis art was a bit older than everybody else, he had this world: Burton Callicott, Dolph Smith, Veda great visual eye and this unlimited tolerance Reed, Murray Riss, and many others. But for weirdness. I think of his place over there on even surrounded by that talent, he started Madison, Beatnik Manor, as having been like a off gingerly, still feeling his oats. salon for artists. … From night to night it was “I came down from Ohio with two suitcashard to tell who lived there and who didn’t. es, and a hammer and a chisel. When I had The epicenter of the Memphis beatnik scene my class, I’d write something on the board was for sure with McIntire. And it wasn’t really and all the students were just sitting there. anything he said or did, although he could be Rust said, ‘No, you’ve got to talk!’ Then once incredibly charming and funny. His attitude I started talking I couldn’t stop. I ended up was like, ‘I’m doing art, here’s my house, you singing in my classes.” He says the last quip, know, rock on.’” As it turned out, such epicenters were still a as he says many things, with a mischievous gleam in his eye. In his disheveled overcoat rare and magical thing in the early- to mid-sixand plaster-stained pants, there’s always a bit ties, in any city. Beyond having musicians like of a dare in his demeanor. Sid Selvidge or Lee Baker sharing the stage

PHOTOGRAPH CREDITS: LEFT BY MIKE MCCARTHY; ABOVE BY ALEX GREENE

12/14/21 8:36 PM

with the likes of bluesman Furry Lewis, there was an openness to new “experiences” that weren’t necessarily born of pure hedonism. It was a time when Owsley Stanley, a San Francisco chemist, drew underground acclaim and/or notoriety for pioneering the mass production of LSD, and, it turned out, Memphis was hip to it long before other parts of the country, due to one man in particular. As McIntire says, “We had it right from Owsley. Owsley’s old roommate was living with me.” With channels to San Francisco wide open, elements of the art and folk scene started to get weirder.

uring folk times, [the Bitter Lemon] was folkie,” Lee Baker told Gordon. “And when the psychedelic thing began, McIntire painted the whole inside psychedelic.” And yet McIntire himself was only an occasional participant in the mental excursions of LSD trips. For him, tripping was more like a continuation of otherworldly journeys he’d taken since he was a teenager: out-ofbody experiences.

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McIntire outside the Beatnik Manor, 1970s. “I was going to school in Steubenville when that first happened,” McIntire explains. “I was looking at this body laying there in the bed. And I said, ‘God, I wonder who that is?’ And then I noticed the lightbulb that hung from the ceiling over my bed. [The room] was above my daddy’s dry cleaning shop. I lived up there with the hot water tanks.” The body was his own. “And then I was leaving the house. I was going out into the sky. And then, when I returned to my body, it was like a vacuum cleaner pulling a feather. Shooop! Back through the door, which was just a crack open, so my mother could call me and get me up in the morning to get ready for school.” Such experiences have peppered his life ever since. “I can get myself into a state of numbness,” he says, “and I’ll fall asleep and all of a sudden I’m up. I remember one time about a month ago, I went out that door and into the kitchen, and then I was going out the window in the kitchen. And I realized, ‘Oh man, I’m having an out-of-body experience.’ And as soon

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as I realized it, I went shzoom, right back into bed. You zip right back.” All along the way, the whole point of McIntire’s life has been pursuing his art. At a certain time, he told Gordon, “I never did [LSD] anymore. I had goals. I wanted to be an artist and I didn’t want to let that get in my road. A lot of these kids were younger, had no goals, and went looking for heavier stuff and killed themselves. We lost a lot of friends.” Despite such losses, though, McIntire remains open to such states of mind. “It just opens your eyes,” he tells me. “That’s why I think everybody should take LSD at least once.” He pauses. “Unless you’re brain-damaged,” he adds with a smile. Indeed, the art itself has remained front and center throughout his life, tending toward the

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Newell Chapel CME Church Carved-stone sculptures fill his backyard. non-representational since he first attended college in Steubenville. “I was a realist when I went to art school,” he remembers. “And everybody laughed at my work. They said, ‘God, you’re about 500 years behind!’ And I looked at other people’s work, and they were doing nice abstracts and so on. But I picked up their style right away.” Even while he was teaching at the art academy, he was creating commissioned works for the likes of Elvis Presley, Isaac Tigrett, and even the city itself. “In 1977, I finished the statue out in front of city hall. It’s 21 feet high and over 10,000 pounds.” Titled “The Muse,” it helped to bolster McIntire’s reputation as a world-class artist. “Everybody said I was the Henry Moore of the South,” he laughs. Yet it’s hardly McIntire’s best-known work. That would arguably be the statue Elvis Presley commisioned in 1965, a Christ figure for the Meditation Garden at Graceland. “When I made that life-sized statue of Jesus, I couldn’t sleep. I stayed up three weeks,” McIntire remembers. “Elvis’ people came on the sixth of December and said they wanted it by PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX GREENE

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Christmas Eve. I said, ‘Do you know how long it takes to do something like that? Maybe a year!’ But I stayed up day and night. And sure enough, they came on Christmas Eve in a big black limousine. ‘We need it now!’ I said, ‘Well I’m still working on it!’ But they just put it up on their shoulders and ran out the door. “And Elvis’ bodyguards made up this little poem that was printed on the plaque on the bottom. Jerry Chisolm, my roommate, added that. Beautiful work. But Elvis never liked it. He said the inscription made him seem equal to Jesus, somehow. I forget how it was worded. But Elvis kept saying, ‘You’ve got to change the wording on there, John. You’ve got to take it off.’”

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“Elvis’ people came on the sixth of December and said they wanted it [the sculpture] by Christmas Eve. I said, ‘Do you know how long it takes to do something like that? Maybe a year!’ But I stayed up day and night. And sure enough, they came on Christmas Eve in a big black limousine. ‘We need it now!

McIntire never got around to it. “Well, years later,” he says, “Elvis’ cousin Billy Smith told me, ‘John, lightning hit it! It went through the statue, and blew the base all to pieces. But we saved the sculpture.’ They just had another base made. I said, ‘Billy, Elvis is dead. You ought to write that down and send it to one of those magazines or something.’ But anyway, Elvis was happy with it!”

cIntire lets out a chuckle as he ponders the odds and ends surrounding him in his home, his own works in marble, wood, resin, and rough-hewn stone scattered among the knick-knacks of a lifetime, many of them found at garage and estate sales. “I’ve done almost 1,000 works since I’ve been in Memphis. Mostly all sculptures,” he says. Having left the MCA in 1985, he’s made a living selling his works ever since. But now he needs to start work on his handdrawn Christmas cards, which he’s made for friends and family since he was 11. I bid him farewell, and run into Mike McCarthy around the corner. I ask him if, when he was a student at MCA, McIntire had moved completely beyond realism in his work. McCarthy raises an eyebrow. “Well, yeah.” He pauses and smiles with approval. “In his everyday life and thinking, he was beyond realism. For John McIntire, just going to lunch is surreal.” PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX GREENE

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VA N C E

Lindenwood

Our history expert solves local mysteries: who, what, when, where, why, and why not. Well, sometimes. BY VANCE L AUDERDALE

DEAR VANCE: Did Lindenwood Christian Church form when two other churches — one of them named Linden, the other named Wood — merged in the 1930s?

— K.G., MEMPHIS.

DEAR K.G.: I’m halfway sorry to tell

you the answer is: No — but only halfway, because the Linden part has credibility, and I’ll get to that shortly. However, I wanted to say that I’ve been asked this question before, though with a variation: “Was Lindenwood named for an older church, whose pastor was named Wood?” And the answer to that is also: No. “That is a myth that has been around for years, and keeps getting repeated,” says the Rev. Geoffrey Mitchell, senior minister at Lindenwood Christian Church, the modern complex at Union and East Parkway. “There just doesn’t seem any way to stop it.” Well, I’ll take the blame. In our March 2014 issue, I discussed Trent Wood, the popular host of the

WMC-TV children’s show Looney Zoo. In my rambling paid-by-the-word style, I mentioned that Trent was the oldest son of the Rev. Howard Thomas Wood, the pastor of Linden Avenue Christian Church. So far, so good. But then I wrote, “When [his] church moved to Union and East Parkway, the congregation decided to honor their much-beloved pastor by incorporating his name into the new church: Lindenwood.” They did no such thing. But nobody corrected me. Nobody suggested I lay off the Kentucky Nip. And so, over the years, my half-dozen readers spread the story around the globe that the church’s name was a tribute to their long-time minister. As it turns out, the “wood” was just a coincidence. Here’s the real story: “For years, we had been searching for a larger property,” says the Rev. Mitchell, “and in the 1940s we came across a heavily wooded lot on East Parkway. Since the new church would no longer be located on Linden Avenue, we decided to change the name and incorporate ‘wood’ into the new name of our church to reflect its new setting.” Although you’d never know it from the distinctly modern style of the present-day buildings, Lindenwood is actually one of the oldest congregations in our city. According to the official church history, in fact, “Only two church edifices in Memphis antedate Linden Avenue. Calvary Episcopal was built in 1841, and St. Peter’s Catholic Church in 1852. Our church was erected in 1859.” Some sources claim the church, a member of the Disciples of Christ denomination, can trace its origins back to 1837, when members assembled in a home on present-day Front Street and later moved into an empty schoolhouse nearby. The actual history, though, probably starts with a real church building, and that indeed took place in 1859, with a handsome brick sanctuary erected on Linden Street, as it was called in those days, at a cost of $22,000. The interior was barely finished when the Civil War put further construction on hold. The church served as a hospital for Union soldiers during the war, as well as for patients suffering from yellow fever during the dreadful epidemics of the late 1800s. At some point, when things settled down, a church history says that members decided to add square towers to the front corners, “to add dignity and give it a more churchy look.” Based on old renderings, their plans succeeded. Over the years, the congregation expanded, with numerous ministers leading the flock, as they say. The “churchy” building, at the southeast corner of Linden and Mulberry, became a neighborhood landmark, standing out from the small homes and boarding houses that surrounded it. In 1937, the Rev. Howard Thomas Wood, who had previously served as the pastor of churches in Kentucky and Texas, came to Memphis with his wife, Jennie. After being here only a few years, Wood published

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY LINDENWOOD CHRISTIAN CHURCH

AS K

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FAMILY PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY LINDENWOOD CHRISTIAN CHURCH

an essay called “Tomorrow” in a church bulletin. In it, he noted that “our pioneer ancestors built well, in the very heart of Memphis, but now we are outgrowing the present facility.” He envisioned “a new, modern church building with all appointments and equipment,” and he certainly had big dreams, predicting “a great cosmopolitan church of 5,000 members, After seeing (and fully staffed with missionaries in the foreign field, and a hearing) the mighty great Bible School of at least Golightly Memorial 1,000 members.” Pipe Organ, I left the With World War II under- sanctuary thinking way, these grand plans had to that perhaps it’s time wait, but in 1945, church ofto replace the Happy ficials purchased eight acres of undeveloped land on East Hal xylophone in the Parkway. For years the only hallway of the Mansion hint of the church to come was with something a bit a fancy wrought-iron sign tell- more impressive. ing motorists, “Future Home of Linden Avenue Christian Church.” But by the 1950s, church officials invited designers to submit plans, their main requirement being a campus in the Southern Colonial style. The new church started with only two buildings — a “temporary” sanctuary (shown here, opposite) and an education building — but the Building Fund Committee had obviously been hard at work, managing to raise the astonishing sum of $825,000, so big plans were in store. In 1953, a church history announced, “The great transition took place, and in October Linden Avenue Christian Church became Lindenwood Christian Church.” Other buildings went up, but at some point, church members decided to embrace a more modern style of architecture. In fact, the Rev. Mitchell says it was his understanding that church members fretted Lindenwood might look too much like First Baptist Church, an imposing edifice just up the street at East Parkway and Poplar. For whatever reason in the dramatic change in design, it’s doubtful anyone would confuse the two churches today. The main sanctuary, dedicated in 1966, is decidedly modern with a flat roof, narrow steeple, a single row of relatively small stained-glass windows, and a row of unadorned cast-concrete columns, linked at the top with arches. The building looks quite fine, but I suspect the members of the old place on Linden wouldn’t think it looks “churchy” enough. If you ask me, the most stunning feature of Lindenwood is found inside — the Golightly Memorial Pipe Organ, installed in 1966 as a gift from the Golightly family, longtime church members. Built by the famous Moller Company of Maryland, it originally had more than 3,500 pipes — each hand-crafted of fine wood, brass, and tin alloys. The largest of these is 32 feet long, and the smallest is only three-eighths of an inch. Now, you’d think that could handle any kind of music ever written, but the church

website (lindenwoodcc.org) explains later enhancements better than I can: “In June 2001, the Golightly Memorial Trompette en Chamade was added, as was the Carolyn Sellers Sharpe Grand Facade, giving the stunning visual on the chancel wall. The pipes are flamed copper (12 pipes), polished zinc (20 pipes), and polished copper (61 pipes.) The latest additions included the installation of a viole celeste, English diapason, nachthorn, French horn, and English horn on the choir; a montre, clarinet, harmonic flute, 16’ violone, and an 8’ and 16’ trumpet on the great; renovation of the Iona F. Reed Memorial Harp; as well as preparations for the ultimate completion of over 90 ranks.” The Lauderdales have a proud history of musical accomplishments, with our mantel lined with dusty trophies saluting my oboe recitals at the Mid-South Fair talent shows, but I confess I don’t know what these features mean. Still, after seeing (and hearing) the mighty Golightly, I left the sanctuary thinking that perhaps it’s time to replace the Happy Hal xylophone in the hallway of the Mansion with something a bit more impressive. The Rev. Howard Thomas Wood — called Tom by everyone who knew him — passed away in 1980, after serving as Lindenwood’s pastor for 31 years. His son, Trent, eventually moved to Oklahoma where he traded a career in broadcasting for one in banking. He passed away in 2014, but it’s obvious his family had strong ties with the church where his father worked so many years. After all, Trent named one of his sons Linden. That’s right: Linden Wood. How many people today, I wonder, name their children after their church?

opposite top: This was to be the “temporary” sanctuary. Original plans for the new campus show a traditional architectural style that bears no resemblance to the church today. opposite bottom: In the early 1950s, only a sign marked the location of the new church at East Parkway and Union. above: The modern sanctuary was dedicated in 1966. left: Family members surround the Rev. Howard Thomas Wood, longtime pastor of Lindenwood. Trent Wood, his famous son and TV personality, stands at far right.

Got a question for Vance?

EMAIL: askvance@memphismagazine.com MAIL: Vance Lauderdale, Memphis magazine, P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101 ONLINE: memphismagazine.com/ ask-vance

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D I N I N G

O U T

Bala’s Bistro

At a new location, Bala Tounkara shares his West African food and heritage with Memphis. BY SAMUEL X. CICCI

Bala Tounkara

ala Tounkara has a big smile on his face when we sit down at his restaurant on Elvis Presley Blvd. It’s been a tough couple of years for everyone in the food service industry, but Tounkara is celebrating the opening of a new and much larger location for Bala’s Bistro, one that should make his capacious menu of West African and American dishes more accessible to Memphians. “It’s really exciting to be open,” says Tounkara. “I think the move was necessary for the business to grow. It’s a much better location here in Whitehaven, and I’m hoping it’s one that can put us on the map.” But if getting the restaurant noticed is one of Tounkara’s main goals, then it might be easy enough to say “mission accomplished.” During my two hours at the restaurant on a Wednesday, a long line stretches from the door to the counter, with new customers steadily filing in after others finish their lunches. Inside, the restaurant offers

plenty of space to settle in for a meal, and on nice days, a huge outdoor patio beckons. But perhaps the biggest change from the old location on Raines is the inclusion of a hot bar. Customers can still order dishes à la carte, but Tounkara’s most popular specialties — like jollof rice, seafood okra stew, or chicken pepper curry — are now available to order by the pound. One of the more popular dishes is chicken maafe, a rich and creamy peanut butter stew prepared with cabbage and carrots. It’s a staple of the cuisine of West Africa, specifically Toun-

kara’s home country of Mali, and made from either melon seeds one that he hopes can get diners or peanuts. Offsetting the seeds’ to choose something a bit out of natural bitterness requires them their comfort zone. to be cooked together with the “Many people come in, and rest of the ingredients for at least they’ve never had African food a couple of hours to balance the before,” says Tounkara. “If flavors, but the willingness to unthey’re hesitant, I’ll ask them dergo that long process is anothabout things they like and see er example of the passion Tounwhat might be a kara has for sharing One of the more popgood starting point some of his favorite for them. A lot of ular dishes is chicken foods. The mixture people like peanut maafe, a rich and lines up more as a butter, it’s a very creamy peanut butter very thick stew, the familiar ingredient, stew prepared with ground seeds providing a satisfying it feels safe, so I’ll cabbage and carrots. point them towards granular and nutty It’s a staple of the the maafe. It’s an intexture, and an overgredient that many cuisine of West Africa. all flavor that brings people know, but it’s used in a out the best of all the ingredients completely different way to crethat go into it. True to his word, ate this very good, thick and the bitterness is almost impercreamy stew. It’s a great way for ceptible. “We have spinach, palm people to explore new things, oil, smoked turkey neck, cow and that’s something I’m really feet, beef tripe, and some lamb excited for.” in there, all mixed together,” he If some people are nervous to explains. “You need to put so try new cuisine, there’s no reamuch flavor in there so you can son to be hesitant at Bala’s. The balance out the bitterness. If you first dish I tried from the hot bar try the seed by itself, you’re going was the braised lamb, cooked to have a hard time! It takes one and a half to two hours to cook, in a light oil and perfectly tender, each morsel sliding quickly but it’s worth it, and really brings and easily off the bone. It came out all the flavors. It can be done with fish, too.” paired with yellow jollof rice — Tounkara traces his maximizthe long-grain side dish normally spiced up with onions and tomaing of ingredients to his time toes, but prepared differently in growing up on a farm in Mali. various countries — and a sa“Anyone who’s lived on a farm, vory spinach blend, cooked with they know that you don’t let any palm oil and mixed in with its part of the animal go to waste,” he own lamb chunks. Customers can says. “So 99 percent of the time, we’ll make use of everything left choose from several versions of over and let it cook overnight so the jollof rice, which has to be it’s ready to go. So you’ll see here my favorite side at the restaurant, although they can also at the restaurant, for example, pick couscous, plantains, attieké sauteed lamb liver, a fish stew, or cow feet with lamb.” (a side dish made from cassava Plenty of new things may wow pulp, with a similar texture to couscous), or mixed vegetables adventurous diners, but Tounto round out their meals. kara’s extensive menu includes But Tounkara had some more many traditional American outside-the-box dishes for me dishes for milder palates. Think to try, too. One menu addition hamburgers, grilled cheese, is egusi, a thick Nigerian soup hot wings, and even a Memphis

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PHOTOGRAPH CREDITS: OPPOSITE TOP BY SAMUEL X. CICCI; THIS PAGE BY CALEB SIGLER

barbecue sandwich. Point to anything on the menu, though, and there’s a good chance that Tounkara has whipped up a vegan version. “At the old location, we had a lot of people coming in asking if we had vegan options,” he says. “So we started doing special orders, but they became such a large part of my customer base. We started doing vegan maafe at first, and then that just took off. I’d say about half of our menu is vegan now.” All of the vegan options are just as hearty as the originals; after my visit, I took home two orders of vegan curry, and the thin spicy sauce, chockfull of vegetables like potatoes and carrots, meshed beautifully on the plate with a side of jollof rice. As if the menu weren’t large enough already, Tounkara recently expanded, both in terms of food and entertainment. Breakfast and brunch options will see a continued fusion of West African and American staples, like a lamb omelette, or a fish stew

that Tounkara likens to jambalaya. Don’t overlook Tounkara’s chicken and waff les, the light and f luffy base propping up the crunchy, sweet, honey-glazed poultry. And beyond food, expect to see more festive events at the restaurant from time to time. above: The bistro’s Seafood Okra Stew has proven to be a big hit, packed with “We’re going to do shrimp, mussels, and salmon. karaoke nights,” he right: Spicy chicken yassa says, “where you maybelow: Tounkara serves a huge variety of be pay a cover and can West African soul food, like the Nigerian enjoy the food and egusi soup, topped with a habanero. singing, and we’ll also bring in DJs. I also have an African Afrobeat night later Jimmy Gentry, at Horseshoe in mind, where you can come and Tunica; he credits the two chefs dress up and enjoy yourself. The for helping him realize his new space really gives us an oppotential. “I arrived here and portunity to host nights like this.” didn’t speak much English, but His restaurant’s new success working in those kitchens really is a just reward for almost two allowed me to explore new types of food, and also to see decades of cooking experience that Tounkara has gathered some dishes that didn’t seem too since he arrived in Memphis in different from what I’d grown the early 2000s. He cut his teeth up with. They both really helped when I decided I wanted to open working for Kelly English, and

my own restaurant.” For now, business is booming at Bala’s Bistro. If diners don’t come for the chicken yassa or vegan maafe, they’re picking up a bottle or a gallon of the house ginger, hibiscus, and tamarind juices. These can also be made into refreshing frozen slushies, perfect for a hot summer day, or the odd 70-degree Memphis winter afternoon. But be warned, some of the hot bar meals are so popular that the Bistro might run out. The curry goat, braised bone-in and smothered in a curry pepper sauce, had been gobbled up when I swung by, but that just gave me another excuse to go back. And with the sheer variety of exciting West African dishes to try, there’s always another reason to return. And when you do, make sure you order everything with an extra side of jollof rice. Bala’s Bistro is open for lunch and dinner at 4571 Elvis Presley Blvd. Open Sunday-Th ursday, 11 a.m. – 9 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m. - 10 p.m. 509-3024. balasbistro.com

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The Memphis Dining Guide

FLIGHT RESTAURANT & WINE BAR—Serves steaks and seafood, along with such specialties as bison ribeye and Muscovy duck, all matched with appropriate wines. 39 S. Main. 521-8005. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ FLYING FISH—Serves up fried and grilled versions of shrimp, crab, oysters, fish tacos, and catfish; also chicken and burgers. 105 S. emphis magazine offers this curated restaurant listing as a service Second. 522-8228. L, D, X, $-$$ to our readers. Broken down alphabetically by neighborhoods, this directory does GOOD FORTUNE CO.—Authentic handcrafted noodles, not list every restaurant in town. It does, however, include the magazine’s “Top 50” choices ramen, and dumplings. 361 S. Main. 561-306-4711. of must-try restaurants in Memphis, a group that is updated every August. Establishments L, D, $-$$ THE GENRE—Burgers, tenders, catfish, and plenty of open less than a year are not eligible for “Top 50” but are noted as “New.” This guide also vegan options made to order at this music-themed restauincludes a representative sampling of other Bluff City eating establishments. No fast-food rant/lounge. 200 Poplar, Suite 105. 410-8169. B, L, D, $-$$ facilities or cafeterias are listed. Restaurants are included regardless of whether they advertise THE GRAY CANARY—The sixth restaurant from chefs in Memphis magazine; those that operate in multiple locations are listed under the neighborhood Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman, offering small plates and entrees cooked on an open flame. Oysters, octopus, and of their original location. This guide is updated regularly, but we recommend that you call hearty steaks are among the menu options at this eatery in Old ahead to check on hours, prices, or other details. Suggestions from readers are welcome; please Dominick Distillery. Closed Mon. 301 S. Front. 466-6324. D, WB, X, contact Samuel X. Cicci at scicci@contemporary-media.com. MRA, $-$$$ GRECIAN GOURMET TAVERNA—Serves traditional favorites like and several Northern Italian specialties. 149 Union, The Peabody. spanakopita, pastitso, moussaka, and hand-rolled dolmathes, as well DOWNTOWN 529-4199. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$$ as lamb sliders and pita nachos. Closed Mon. 412 S. Main. 249-6626. 117 PRIME—Restaurateurs Craig Blondis and Roger Sapp team CAROLINA WATERSHED—This indoor/outdoor eatery, set around L, D, X, $ up with Chef Ryan Trimm to recreate the traditional American silos, features reimagined down-home classics, including fried green GUS’S WORLD FAMOUS FRIED CHICKEN—Serves steakhouse. Serving oysters on the half shell and a variety of surf tomatoes with smoked catfish, a buttermilk fried chicken sandwich, chicken with signature spicy batter, along with homemade and turf options. 117 Union. 433-9851. L, D, WB, X, $-$$$ burgers, and more. Closed Mon.-Thurs. 141 E. Carolina. 321-5553. L, beans, slaw, and pies. 310 S. Front. 527-4877; 215 S. Center St. ALDO’S PIZZA PIES—Serving gourmet pizzas — D, WB, $-$$ (Collierville). 853-6005; 2965 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 373including Mr. T Rex — salads, and more. Also 30 beers, CATHERINE & MARY’S—A variety of pastas, grilled 9111; 730 S. Mendenhall. 767-2323; 505 Highway 70 W., Mason, TN. bottled or on tap. 100 S. Main. 577-7743; 752 S. Cooper. quail, pâté, razor clams, and monkfish are among the 901-294-2028. L, D, X, MRA, $ 725-7437. L, D, X, $-$$ dishes served at this Italian restaurant in the Chisca. 272 S. HAPPY MEXICAN—Serves quesadillas, burritos, chimichangas, THE ARCADE—Possibly Memphis’ oldest cafe. Main. 254-8600. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ vegetable and seafood dishes, and more. 385 S. Second. 529-9991; Specialties include sweet potato pancakes, a fried peaCHEF TAM’S UNDERGROUND 6080 Primacy Pkwy. 683-0000; 7935 DINING SYMBOLS nut butter and banana sandwich, and breakfast served CAFE—Serves Southern staples with a Winchester. 751-5353. L, D, X, $ all day. 540 S. Main. 526-5757. B, L, D (Thurs.-Sat.), X, MRA, $ Cajun twist. Menu items include totchoes, HU. ROOF—Rooftop cocktail bar with B — breakfast AUTOMATIC SLIM’S—Longtime Downtown favorite specializes jerk wings, fried chicken, and “muddy” superb city views serves toasts with a L — lunch in contemporary American cuisine emphasizing local ingredients; mac and cheese. Closed Sun. and Mon. 668 variety of toppings including beef tartare also extensive martini list. 83 S. Second. 525-7948. L, D, WB, X, D — dinner Union Ave. 207-6182. L, D, $ with cured egg, cognac, and capers or riced MRA, $-$$$ CHEZ PHILIPPE—Classical/ SB — Sunday brunch cauliflower with yellow curry, currants, and BACKLOT SANDWICH SHOP—Big sandwiches, contemporary French cuisine WB — weekend brunch almonds. Also salads, fish tacos, and boiled breakfast bowls, and build-your-own-biscuits for presented in a luxurious atmopeanut hummus. 79 Madison. 333-1229. D, $ X— wheelchair accessible breakfast, lunch, and an early supper. 265 S. Front St. sphere with a seasonal menu focused on HUSTLE & DOUGH BAKERY & MRA — member, Memphis 509-8612. B, L, D, $ local/regional cuisine. The crown jewel of CAFE—Flaky, baked breakfast goodness Restaurant Association BARDOG TAVERN—Classic American grill with Italian The Peabody for 35 years. Afternoon tea every day with fresh pastries, sandwiches, $ — under $15 per person without influence, Bardog offers pasta specialties such as Grandma’s NJ served Wed.-Sat., 1-3:30 p.m. (reservations and more at Arrive Hotel. 477 S. Main St., Meatballs, as well as salads, sliders, sandwiches, and daily spedrinks or desserts required). Closed Sun.-Tues. The Peabody, 701-7577. B, L, X, $ cials. 73 Monroe. 275-8752. B (Mon.-Fri.), L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ 149 Union. 529-4188. D, X, MRA, $$$$ $$ — under $25 ITTA BENA—Southern and CajunBEDROCK EATS & SWEETS—Memphis’ only Paleo-centric CIMAS—It’s breakfast tacos, $$$ — $26-$50 American cuisine served here, conveniently restaurant, offering such dishes as pot roast, waffles, enchiladas, shrimp and grits, chilaquiles located above B.B. King’s Blues Club on $$$$ — over $50 chicken salad, omelets, and more. Closed for dinner Sun. 327 S. verdes, and plenty of other Beale St.; specialties are duck and waffles Main. 409-6433. B, L, D, X, $-$$ Southern and Latin-American twists at the and shrimp and grits, along with steaks, chops, seafood, and pasta. BELLE TAVERN—Serving elevated bar food, including a Hyatt Centric. 33 Beale St. 444-3232. B, L, D, $-$$$ 145 Beale St. 578-3031. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ butcher board with a variety of meats and cheeses, as well as THE CLOVER CLUB—Southern fusion and internationKING & UNION BAR GROCERY—Classic Southern favorites daily specials. 117 Barboro Alley. 249-6580. L (Sun.), D, MRA, $ ally-inspired small plates at Hotel Indigo. including catfish plate, pimento cheese, po-boys, chicken & waffles. BEN YAY’S GUMBO SHOP—Spiritual successor to DejaVu, 22 N. B.B. King. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner with cocktails served with flair offering fresh and authentic Creole staples. 51 S. Main St., 779COZY CORNER—Serving up ribs, pork sandwiches, and favorite Memphis beers. Locally made confections available in the 4125. L, D, X, $-$$ chicken, spaghetti, and more; also homemade banana grocery. 185 Union Ave. 523-8500. B, L, D, $-$$ BISHOP—Ticer and Hudman’s newest venture at the Central pudding. Closed Mon. 745 N. Parkway and Manassas. KOOKY CANUCK—Offers prime rib, catfish, and burgers, including Station Hotel features upscale dishes in a French brasserie style. 527-9158. L, D, $ the 4-lb. “Kookamonga”; also late-night menu. 87 S. Second. 578545 S. Main St., 524-5247. L, D, X, $$-$$$ CURFEW—An elevated sports bar/American tavern concept 9800; 1250 N. Germantown Pkwy. 1-800-2453 L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$ BLEU—This eclectic restaurant features American food with by Top Chef contestant Fabio Viviani at the Canopy Memphis LITTLE BETTIE—New Haven-style pizzas and snacks from global influences and local ingredients. Among the specialties are Downtown hotel. 164 Union Ave. B, L, D, X, $-$$ the Andrew-Michael team at Wiseacre’s Downtown location. a 14-oz. bone-in rib-eye and several seafood dishes. 221 S. Third, EVELYN & OLIVE—Jamaican/Southern fusion cuisine includes 398 S. B.B. King Blvd. 334-9411. L, D, $-$$ in the Westin Memphis Beale St. Hotel. 334-5950. B, L, D, WB, X, such dishes as Kingston stew fish, Rasta Pasta, and jerk rib-eye. THE LITTLE TEA SHOP—Downtown institution serves MRA, $$-$$$ Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun.-Mon. 630 Madison. up Southern comfort cooking, including meatloaf and such BLUEFIN RESTAURANT & SUSHI LOUNGE—Serves 748-5422. L, D, X, $ veggies as turnip greens, yams, okra, and tomatoes. Closed Japanese fusion cuisine featuring seafood and steak, with FAM—Casual Asian restaurant serves sushi rice bowls, noodle bowls, Sat.-Sun. 69 Monroe. 525-6000, L, X, $ seasonally changing menu; also a sushi bar. 135 S. Main. 528-1010. sushi rolls, and spring rolls. Closed Sun. 149 Madison; 521 S. Highland. LOCAL—Entrees with a focus on locally sourced products include L, D, X, $-$$ 701-6666. L, D, X, $ lobster mac-and-cheese and rib-eye patty melt; menu differs by locaBRASS DOOR IRISH PUB—Irish and New-American cuisine FELICIA SUZANNE’S—Southern cuisine with low-countion. 95 S. Main. 473-9573; 2126 Madison. 725-1845. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ includes such entrees as fish and chips, burgers, shepherd’s pie, try, Creole, and Delta influences, using regional fresh seaLOFLIN YARD—Beer garden and restaurant serves vegetarian fare all-day Irish breakfast, and more. 152 Madison. 572-1813. L, D, food, local beef, and locally grown foods. Entrees include and smoked-meat dishes, including beef brisket and pork tenderloin, SB, $-$$ shrimp and grits. Closed Sun. and Mon. A Downtown staple at cooked on a custom-made grill. Closed Mon.-Tues. 7 W. Carolina. BY THE BREWERY—Breakfast and lunch café, with a Brinkley Plaza, 80 Monroe, Suite L1. 523-0877. L (Fri. only), D, X, MRA, 249-3046. L (Sat. and Sun.), D, MRA, $-$$ focus on Southern-style biscuits, salads, and soups. 496 $$-$$$ LONGSHOT—Chef David Todd has something for everyone Tennessee St. 310-4341. B, L, $ FERRARO’S PIZZERIA & PUB—Rigatoni and tortellini are with a wide variety of international fusion dishes, and a side CAFE KEOUGH—European-style cafe serving quiche, paninis, among the pasta entrees here, along with pizzas (whole or by the of shuffleboard. 477 S. Main. D, $-$$ salads, and more. 12 S. Main. 509-2469. B, L, D, X, $ slice) with a variety of toppings. 111 Jackson. 522-2033. L, D, X, $ THE LOOKOUT AT THE PYRAMID—Serves seafood and Southern CAPRICCIO GRILL ITALIAN STEAKHOUSE—Offers prime FISHBOWL AT THE PYRAMID—Burgers, fish dishes, sandfare, including cornmeal-fried oysters, sweet tea brined chicken, and steaks, fresh seafood (lobster tails, grouper, mahi mahi), pasta, wiches, and more served in a unique “underwater” setting. Bass Pro, elk chops. 1 Bass Pro Dr. 620-4600/291-8200. L, D, X, $-$$$ 1 Bass Pro Drive, 291-8000. B, L, D, X, $-$$

A Curated Guide to Eating Out

We celebrate our city’s community table and the people who grow, cook, and eat the best Memphis food at M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M / F O O D 72 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O • J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 2

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(This guide, compiled by our editors, includes editorial picks and advertisers.)

12/8/21 4:18 PM

LUCY’S—Hu. Hotel’s downstairs diner serves up breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Start your day with a Hu. breakfast burrito, or Lucy’s Burger for a late night bite 3 S. Main. 333-1200. B, L, D, X, $-$$ LUNA RESTAURANT & LOUNGE—Serving a limited menu of breakfast and lunch items. Dinner entrees include citrus glaze salmon and Cajun stuffed chicken. 179 Madison (Hotel Napoleon). 526-0002. B, D (Mon.-Sat.), X, $-$$$ MACIEL’S—Entrees include tortas, fried taco plates, quesadillas, chorizo and pastor soft tacos, salads, and more. Downtown closed Sun. 45 S. Main. 526-0037, X, MRA, $  THE MAJESTIC GRILLE, DBA COCOZZA—It’s red sauce, all the time in the Majestic Grille space on Main. Variety of Italian dishes for curbside and takeout orders. 145 S. Main. 522-8555. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ McEWEN’S—Southern/American cuisine with international flavors; specialties include steak and seafood, sweet potato-crusted catfish with macaroni and cheese, and more. Closed Sun., Monroe location. 120 Monroe. Temporarily closed for renovations. 527-7085; 1110 Van Buren (Oxford). 662-234-7003. L, D, SB (Oxford only), X, MRA, $$-$$$ MESQUITE CHOP HOUSE—The focus here is on steaks, including prime fillet, rib-eyes, and prime-aged New York strip; also, some seafood options. 5960 Getwell (Southaven). 662-890-2467; 88 Union. 527-5337; 3165 Forest Hill-Irene (Germantown). 249-5661. D, SB (Germantown), X, $$-$$$ MOLLIE FONTAINE LOUNGE—Specializes in tapas (small plates) featuring global cuisine. Closed Sun.-Tues. 679 Adams Ave. 524-1886. D, X, MRA, $ MOMMA’S ROADHOUSE—This diner and dive at Highway 55 serves up hot and crispy fried chicken wings, among other solid bar food options. 855 Kentucky. 207-5111. L, D, MRA, $ THE NINE THAI & SUSHI—Serving authentic Thai dishes, including curries, as well as a variety of sushi rolls. Closed for lunch Sat. and Sun. 121 Union. 208-8347. L, D, X, $-$$ THE PARAMOUNT—Fried green tomato and crab beignet small plates to grilled lamb loin, cowboy ribeye, and an extensive cocktail list. Closed Sun/Mon. 265 S. Front. 4108169. D, $-$$$$ PAULETTE’S—Presents fine dining with a Continental flair, including such entrees as filet Paulette with butter cream sauce and crabmeat and spinach crepes; also changing daily specials and great views. River Inn. 50 Harbor Town Square. 260-3300. B, L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ PEARL’S OYSTER HOUSE—Downtown eatery serving seafood, including oysters, crawfish, and stuffed butterfly shrimp, as well as beef, chicken, and pasta dishes. 299 S. Main. 522-9070; 8106 Cordova Center Dr. (Cordova). 425-4797. L, D, SB, X, $-$$$ PONTOTOC LOUNGE—Upscale restaurant and jazz bar serves such starters as alligator filet fritters; entrees include Mississippi pot roast with jalapeño cornbread and tagliatelle with braised beef. 314 S. Main. 207-7576. D, X, $-$$ RAW GIRLS—Raw and hot plant-based food alongside cold-pressed juices made from seasonal, locally grown sources. Closed Sun. 150 Peabody Pl., Suite 118. 207-5463. B, L, D, $-$$ REGINA’S—New Orleans-inspired eatery offering po’boys, Cajun nachos topped with crawfish tails, catfish platters, oysters, and more. Closed Mon. 60 N. Main. 730-0384. B, L, D, SB, X, $-$$ RENDEZVOUS, CHARLES VERGOS’—Menu items include barbecued ribs, cheese plates, skillet shrimp, red beans and rice, and Greek salads. Closed Sun.-Mon. 52 S. Second. 523-2746. L (Fri.-Sat.), D, X, $-$$ RIZZO’S DINER—Chorizo meatloaf, lobster pronto puff, and lamb belly tacos are menu items at this upscale diner. Michael Patrick is among the city’s best chefs. 492 S. Main. 304-6985. L (Fri.-Sat.), D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ SABOR CARIBE—Serving up “Caribbean flavors” with dishes from Colombia, Venezuela, Puerto Rico, and Cuba. Closed Sunday. 662 Madison. 949-8100. L, D, X, $ SAGE—Restaurant and lounge features daily lunch specials and tapas with such dishes as braised short ribs, teriyaki pulled pork, and the Sage burger made with Angus beef, avocado mash, fried egg, and flash-fried sage. 94 S. Main. 672-7902. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ SILLY GOOSE LOUNGE—Gourmet, wood-fired pizzas and hand-crafted cocktails at this Downtown restaurant and lounge. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 111. 435-6915. L, D, X, $ SLEEP OUT LOUIE’S—Oyster bar with such specialties as chargrilled Roquefort oysters and gulf oysters on the half shell with Prosecco mignonette; also serves flatbread pizzas and a variety of sandwiches. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 111. 707-7180. L, D, X, $ SOUTH MAIN SUSHI & GRILL—Serving sushi, nigiri, and more. 520 S. Main. 249-2194. L, D, X, $

Broadway Pizza House Legendary Pizza Since 1977

Memphis Magazine’s

THE 2021

FACE OF

2581 Broad Avenue (901) 454-7930

629 South Mendenhall

(901) 207-1546

PIZZA

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The Memphis Dining Guide SOB—Elevated gastropub that serves favorites like general Tso’s cauliflower or duck fried rice. 345 S. Main. 526-0388. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ SUGAR GRITS— Who said breakfast has to be in the morning? The Westmorelands offer grits and other breakfast goodness all day long, in addition to other Southernstyle lunch and dinner options. 150 Peabody Pl., Suite 111. 249-5206. B, L, D, $-$$ SUNRISE MEMPHIS—From the owners of Sweet Grass and Central BBQ. Serves breakfast all day, including house-made biscuits, frittatas, kielbasa or boudin plates, and breakfast platters. 670 Jefferson. 552-3144. B, L, X, MRA, $ TERRACE—Creative American and Continental cuisine includes such dishes as filet mignon, beef or lamb sliders, chicken satay, and mushroom pizzetta. Rooftop, River Inn of Harbor Town, 50 Harbor Town Square. 260-3366. D, X, MRA, $$ TEXAS DE BRAZIL—Serves beef, pork, lamb, and chicken dishes, and Brazilian sausage; also a salad bar with extensive toppings. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 103. 526-7600. L (Wed.-Fri.), D, SB, X, $$-$$$ TUG’S—Famous for New Orleans gumbo, fabulous burgers, fried thin catfish, and specialty pancakes. Now serving Grisanti Crafted Pizza. 51 Harbor Town Square. 260-3344. B, L, D, WB, X, $$-$$$ THE VAULT—Oysters, shrimp beignets, flatbreads, stuffed cornish hen, and Smash Burger featured on “Late Nite Eats” are among the dishes offered at this Creole/Italian fusion eatery. 124 G.E. Patterson. 591-8000. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ WAHLBURGERS WILD—Wahlburgers brings its classic menu, but with a few gamey twists at the Bass Pro Pyramid. 1 Bass Pro Drive. B, L, D, $-$$ WESTY’S—Extensive menu includes a variety of wild rice dishes, sandwiches, plate lunches, and hot fudge pie. 346 N. Main. 543-3278.L, D, X, $

MIDTOWN (INCLUDES THE MEDICAL CENTER) ABNER'S FAMOUS CHICKEN—Fried chicken tenders and dipping sauces galore at this Mid-South staple. 1350 Concourse Ave, Suite 137. 425-2597; (East Memphis) 1591 Poplar Ave. 509-3351; (Cordova) 1100 N. Germantown Pkwy. 7545355. L, D, $-$$ ABYSSINIA RESTAURANT—Ethiopian/Mediterranean menu includes beef, chicken, lamb, fish entrees, and vegetarian dishes; also a lunch buffet. 2600 Poplar. 321-0082. L, D, X, $-$$ ALCHEMY—Southern fusion, locally grown cuisine features small and large plates; among the offerings are pan-seared hanger steak, quail, and lamb chops; also handcrafted cocktails and local craft beers. 940 S. Cooper. 726-4444. D, SB, X, $-$$ ART BAR—Inventive cocktails feature locally foraged ingredients; snacks include house-cured salt & vinegar potato chips and herb-roasted olives. Closed Mon. 1350 Concourse Avenue #280. 507-8030. D, X, $ BABALU TACOS & TAPAS—This eatery dishes up Spanish-style tapas with Southern flair; also taco and enchilada of the day; specials change daily. 2115 Madison. 274-0100; 6450 Poplar, 4108909. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ BACK DO / MI YARD—A revamped patio space behind The Beauty Shop features rotisserie meats and fishes via Brazilian-style outdoor grill. Dinner Wednesday-Saturday, weather permitting. 966 S. Cooper, 272-7111. D, X, $$ BAR DKDC—Features an ever-changing menu of international “street food,” from Thai to Mexican, Israeli to Indian, along with specialty cocktails. 964 S. Cooper. 272-0830. D, X, MRA, $ BAR KEOUGH—It’s old-school eats and cocktails at the new Cooper-Young neighborhood corner bar by Kevin Keough. 247 Cooper St. D, X, $ BAR-B-Q SHOP—Dishes up barbecued ribs, spaghetti, bologna; also pulled pork shoulder, Texas toast barbecue sandwich, chicken sandwich, and salads. Closed Sun. 1782 Madison. 272-1277. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ BARI RISTORANTE ENOTECA—Authentic Southeastern Italian cuisine (Puglia) emphasizes lighter entrees. Serves fresh fish and beef dishes and a homemade soup of the day. 524 Cooper. 722-2244. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ BARKSDALE RESTAURANT—Old-school diner serving breakfast and Southern plate lunches. 237 S. Cooper. 722-2193. B, L, D, X, $ BAYOU BAR & GRILL—New Orleans fare at this Overton Square eatery includes jambalaya, gumbo, catfish Acadian, shrimp dishes, red beans and rice, and muffalettas. 2094 Madison. 278-8626. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$

BEAUTY SHOP—Modern American cuisine with international flair served in a former beauty shop. Serves steaks, salads, pasta, and seafood, including pecancrusted golden sea bass. Perennial “Best Brunch” winner. Closed for dinner Sunday. 966 S. Cooper. 272-7111. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ BELLY ACRES—At this festive Overton Square eatery, milkshakes, floats, and burgers rule. Burgers are updated with contemporary toppings like grilled leeks, braised tomatoes, and sourdough or brioche buns. 2102 Trimble Pl. 529-7017. L, D, X, $ BOSCOS—Tennessee’s first craft brewery serves a variety of freshly brewed beers as well as wood-fired oven pizzas, pasta, seafood, steaks, and sandwiches. 2120 Madison. 432-2222. L, D, SB (with live jazz), X, MRA, $-$$ BOUNTY ON BROAD—Offering family-style dining, Bounty serves small plates and family-sized platters, with such specialties as chicken-fried quail and braised pork shank. 2519 Broad. 410-8131. L (Sat. and Sun.), D (Mon.-Sat.), SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ BROADWAY PIZZA—Serving a variety of pizzas, including the Broadway Special, as well as sandwiches, salads, wings, and soul-food specials. 2581 Broad. 454-7930; 627 S. Mendenhall. 207-1546. L, D, X, $-$$ CAFE 1912—French/American bistro owned by culinary pioneer Glenn Hays serving such seafood entrees as seared sea scallops with charred cauliflower purée and chorizo cumin sauce; also crepes, salads, and onion soup gratinée. 243 S. Cooper. 722-2700. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ CAFE BROOKS BY CITY & STATE—Serving grab-and-go pastries, as well as lunch items. Menu includes soups, salads, and sandwiches, such as the Modern Reuben and Grown-Up Grilled Cheese. 1934 Poplar (Memphis Brooks Museum of Art). 544-6200. B, L, X, $ CAFE ECLECTIC—Omelets and chicken and waffles are among menu items, along with quesadillas, sandwiches, wraps, and burgers. Menu varies by location. 603 N. McLean. 725-1718; 111 Harbor Town Square. 590-4645. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $ CAFE OLÉ—This eatery specializes in authentic Mexican cuisine; one specialty is the build-your-own quesadilla. 959 S. Cooper. 343-0103. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ CAFE PALLADIO—Serves gourmet salads, soups, sandwiches, and desserts in a tea room inside the antiques shop. Closed Sun. 2169 Central. 278-0129. L, X, $ CAFE SOCIETY—With Belgian and classic French influences, serves Wagyu beef, chicken, and seafood dishes, including bacon-wrapped shrimp, along with daily specials and vegetarian entrees. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 212 N. Evergreen. 722-2177. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ CELTIC CROSSING—Specializes in Irish and American pub fare. Entrees include shepherd’s pie, shrimp and sausage coddle, and fish and chips. 903 S. Cooper. 274-5151. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ CENTRAL BBQ—Serves ribs, smoked hot wings, pulled pork sandwiches, chicken, turkey, nachos, and portobello sandwiches. Offers both pork and beef barbecue. 2249 Central Ave. 272-9377; 4375 Summer Ave. 767-4672; 147 E. Butler. 672-7760 ; 6201 Poplar. 417-7962. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ COMPLICATED PILGRIM—Quick serve coffee shop, bar, and restaurant all in one at The Memphian hotel. 21 S. Cooper St. 601-909-5820. B, L, D, $-$$ THE COVE—Nautical-themed restaurant and bar serving oysters, pizzas, and more. The Stoner Pie, with tamales and fritos, is a popular dish. 2559 Broad. 730-0719. L, D, $ THE CRAZY NOODLE—Korean noodle dishes range from bibam beef noodle with cabbage, carrots, and other vegetables, to curry chicken noodle; also rice cakes served in a flavorful sauce. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 2015 Madison. 272-0928. L, D, X, $ THE DOGHOUZZ—It’s both bark and bite at the Doghouzz, which pairs a variety of gourmet hot dogs alongside local craft beer and one of the city’s most extensive whiskey selections. Open for lunch, dinner, and late-night. Closed Sunday. 1349 Autumn Ave. 207-7770. L, D, X, $ ECCO—Mediterranean-inspired specialties range from rib-eye steak to seared scallops to housemade pastas and a grilled vegetable plate; also a Saturday brunch. Closed Sun.-Mon. 1585 Overton Park. 410-8200. B, L, D, X, $-$$ FABIOLA’S KITCHEN—Longtime caterer Fabiola Francis serves up burgers, tacos, fish, and much more. 1353 Jackson Ave. B, L, $ FARM BURGER—Serves grass-fed, freshly ground, locally sourced burgers; also available with chicken, pork, or veggie quinoa patties, with such toppings as aged white cheddar, kale

coleslaw, and roasted beets. 1350 Concourse Avenue, Suite 175. 800-1851. L, D, X, $ FINO’S ITALIAN DELI & CATERING—The newly revived Fino’s offers the old favorites such as the Acquisto as well as a new breakfast menu. 1853 Madison. 272-FINO. B, L, D, X, $ FLAME RAMEN—Traditional Japanese ramen restaurant serving up bowls of noodles in Midtown. 1838 Union Ave. 779-8666. D, $-$$ FRIDA’S—Mexican cuisine and Tex-Mex standards, including chimichangas, enchiladas, and fajitas; seafood includes shrimp and tilapia. 1718 Madison. 244-6196. L, D, X, $-$$ GLOBAL CAFÉ—This international food hall hosts three immigrant/ refugee food entrepreneurs serving Venezuelan, Sudanese, and Syrian cuisines. Samosas, shawarma, and kabobs are among the menu items. Closed Mon. 1350 Concourse Avenue, Suite 157. L, D, X, MRA, $ GOLDEN INDIA—Northern Indian specialties include tandoori chicken as well as lamb, beef, shrimp, and vegetarian dishes. 2097 Madison. 728-5111. L, D, X, $-$$ GROWLERS—Sports bar and eatery serves standard bar fare in addition to pasta, tacos, chicken and waffles, and light options. 1911 Poplar. 244-7904. L, D, X, $-$$ HATTIE B’S—Fried chicken spot features “hot chicken” with a variety of heat levels; from no heat to “shut the cluck up” sauce. Sides include greens, pimento mac-and-cheese, and black-eyed pea salad. 596 S. Cooper. 424-5900. L, D, X, $ HM DESSERT LOUNGE—Serving cake, pie, and other desserts, as well as a selection of savory dishes, including meatloaf and mashed potato “cupcakes.” Closed Monday. 1586 Madison. 290-2099. L, D, X, $ HUEY’S—This family-friendly restaurant offers 13 different burgers, a variety of sandwiches, and delicious soups and salads. 1927 Madison. 726-4372; 1771 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 754-3885; 77 S. Second (Downtown). 527-2700; 2130 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-4455; 7090 Malco Blvd. (Southaven). 662349-7097; 7825 Winchester. 624-8911; 4872 Poplar. 682-7729; 7677 Farmington Blvd. (Germantown). 318-3030; 8570 Highway 51 N. (Millington). 873-5025. L, D, X, MRA, $ IMAGINE VEGAN CAFE—Dishes at this fully vegan restaurant range from salads and sandwiches to full dinners, including eggplant parmesan and “beef” tips and rice; breakfast all day Sat. and Sun. 2158 Young. 654-3455. L, D, WB, X, $ INDIA PALACE—Tandoori chicken, lamb shish kabobs, and chicken tikka masala are among the entrees; also, vegetarian options and a daily all-you-can-eat lunch buffet. 1720 Poplar. 278-1199. L, D, X, $-$$ INSPIRE COMMUNITY CAFE—Serving breakfast all day, in addition to quesadillas, rice bowls, and more for lunch and dinner. 510 Tillman, Suite 110. 509-8640. B, L, D, X, $ LAFAYETTE’S MUSIC ROOM—Serves such Southern cuisine as po’boys, shrimp and grits, and wood-fired pizzas. 2119 Madison. 207-5097. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ LBOE—Gourmet burger joint serves locally sourced ground beef burgers, with options like the Mac-N-Cheese Burger and Caprese. Black bean and turkey patties available. 2021 Madison. 725-0770. L, D, X, $ THE LIQUOR STORE—Renovated liquor store turned diner serves all-day breakfast, sandwiches, and entrees such as Salisbury steak and smothered pork chops. Closed for dinner Sun.-Mon. 2655 Broad. 405-5477. B, L, D, X, $-$$ LITTLE ITALY—Serving New York-style pizza as well as subs and pasta dishes. 1495 Union. 725-0280; L, D, X, $-$$ MARDI GRAS MEMPHIS—Fast-casual establishment serving Cajun fare, including an etouffee-stuffed po’boy. Closed Mon.-Tues. 496 N. Watkins. 530-6767. L, D, X, $-$$ MAXIMO’S ON BROAD—Serving a tapas menu that features creative fusion cuisine; entrees include veggie paella and fish of the day. Closed Mon. 2617 Broad Ave. 452-1111. D, SB, X, $-$$ MEMPHIS PIZZA CAFE—Homemade pizzas are specialties; also serves sandwiches, calzones, and salads. 2087 Madison. 726-5343; 5061 Park Ave. 684-1306; 7604 W. Farmington (Germantown). 7532218; 797 W. Poplar (Collierville). 861-7800; 5627 Getwell (Southaven). 662-536-1364. L, D, X, $-$$ MIDPOINTE FROM EDGE ALLEY—Edge Alley’s sister cafe at the Ballet Memphis headquarters focuses on freshness for its breakfast, lunch, and happy hour tapas. Closed Sunday-Monday. 2144 Madison Ave. 425-2605. B, L, X, $ MOLLY’S LA CASITA—Homemade tamales, fish tacos, a vegetarian combo, and bacon-wrapped shrimp are a few of the specialties. 2006 Madison. 726-1873. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ PANTÀ—Small, Catalan-inspired plates by Kelly English in the former Restaurant Iris space. 2146 Monroe Ave. Closed Mon.-Wed. 590-2828. L, D, $-$$.

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PARISH GROCERY—Shrimp? Roast beef? Oysters? Whatever type of po’boy you want, the New Orleansthemed eatery has got it. Closed Monday. 916 Cooper St. 207-4347. L, D, X, $-$$ PAYNE’S BAR-B-QUE—Opened in 1972, this family-owned barbecue joint serves ribs, smoked sausage, and chopped pork sandwiches with a standout mustard slaw and homemade sauce. About as down-to-earth as it gets. 1762 Lamar. 272-1523. L, D, $-$$ PIZZERIA TRASIMENO—Small pizzas baked in wood-fired clay ovens along with a selection of small salads. Menu is soon to include desserts, local beer on tap, and Umbrian wine. 1350 Concourse Ave., Suite 181. 308-1113. L, D. $ PHO BINH—Vietnamese, vegetarian, and Cantonese specialties include lemon tofu and spring rolls. Closed Sunday. 1615 Madison. 276-0006. L, D, $ RAILGARTEN—Located in a former rail station space, this eatery offers breakfast items, a variety of salads and sandwiches, and such entrees as short rib mac-and-cheese and fish tacos. Also serves shakes, malts, floats, and cream sodas. 2166 Central. 231-5043. B, L, D, $-$$ RED FISH ASIAN BISTRO—In the former Nineteenth Century Club building, serves sushi, teriyaki, and hibachi. Specialties include yuzu filet mignon and Chilean sea bass. 1433 Union. 454-3926; 9915 Highway 64 (Lakeland). 729-7581; 6518 Goodman (Olive Branch). 662-874-5254. L, D, X, $-$$$ ROBATA RAMEN & YAKITORI BAR—Serves ramen noodle bowls and Yakitori skewers as well as rice and noodle dishes. 2116 Madison. 410-8290. L, D, X, $ SABROSURA—Serves Mexican and Cuban fare, including arroz tapada de pollo and steak Mexican. Closed Sun. 782 Washington. 421-8180. L, D, X, $-$$ SALT|SOY—Nick Scott and Brac McCarley team up to provide Southern and Asian-inspired dishes at this Japanese Izakaya. Closed Sunday, Monday. 2583 Broad Ave. 726-4444. D, $$

SALTWATER CRAB—Offers an array of seafood dishes including boils with blue crab, crab legs, lobster tails, and more, and specialty sushi like the Dynamite or Royal King rolls, in addition to signature sangrias and cocktails. 2059 Madison Ave. 922-5202. L, D, X, $$ THE SECOND LINE—Kelly English brings “relaxed Creole cuisine” to his newest eatery; serves a variety of po’boys and such specialties as barbecue shrimp, andouille shrimp, and pimento cheese fries. 2144 Monroe. 590-2829. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ SEKISUI—Japanese fusion cuisine, fresh sushi bar, grilled meats and seafood, California rolls, and vegetarian entrees. Poplar/Perkins location’s emphasis is on Pacific Rim cuisine. Menu and hours vary at each location. 25 Belvedere. 725-0005; 1884 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 309-8800; 4724 Poplar. 767-7770; 2130 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-0622; 2990 KirbyWhitten (Bartlett). 377-2727; 6696 Poplar. 747-0001. L, D, X, $-$$$ STICKEM—Brick and mortar location for the popular food truck, which offers grilled meat on a stick. 1788 Madison. Closed Sunday. 474-7214. L, D, X, $ STONE SOUP CAFE—Cooper-Young eatery serving soups, salads, quiche, meat-and-two specials; and daily specials such as Italian roast beef. Closed Monday. 993 S. Cooper. 922-5314. B, L, SB, X, $ SOUL FISH CAFE—Serving Southern-style soul food, tacos, and po’boys, including catfish, crawfish, oyster, shrimp, chicken, and smoked pork tenderloin. 862 S. Cooper. 725-0722; 3160 Village Shops Dr. (Germantown). 755-6988; 4720 Poplar. 590-0323. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ SWEET GRASS—Chef Ryan Trimm takes Southern cuisine to a new level. Low-country coastal cuisine includes such specialties as shrimp and grits. Closed Mon. Restaurant’s “sister,” Sweet Grass Next Door, open nightly, serves lunch Sat.-Sun. 937 S. Cooper. 278-0278. D, SB, X, $-$$$ TAMBOLI’S PASTA & PIZZA—Pasta-maker Miles Tamboli whips up Italian soul food with seasonal menus featuring dishes like crispy fried chicken or creamy bucatini with pecorino cheese. Serves dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Pizza only menu after 9pm. 1761 Madison. 410-8866. D, X, $-$$ TAKASHI BISTRO—Fusion restaurant with an open kitchen that lets customers watch chefs prepare a variety of Japanese and Thai cuisine. 1680 Union Ave. Suite 109. 800-2936. L, D, $-$$. TSUNAMI—Features Pacific Rim cuisine (Asia, Australia, South Pacific, etc.); also a changing “small plate” menu. Chef Ben Smith is a Cooper-Young pioneer. Specialties include Asian nachos and roasted sea bass. Closed Sunday. 928 S. Cooper. 274-2556. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$

ZINNIE’S—Dive bar classic reopens with a makeover and signature Zinnaloni sandwich. 1688 Madison. 726-5004. L, D, X, $

SOUTH MEMPHIS (INCLUDES PARKWAY VILLAGE, FOX MEADOWS, SOUTH MEMPHIS, WINCHESTER, AND WHITEHAVEN)

BALA'S BISTRO—Authentic West African cuisine available to order or by the pound, alongside traditional American dishes and an extensive vegan menu. 4571 Elvis Presley Blvd. 509-3024. L, D, $-$$ COLETTA’S—Longtime eatery serves such specialties as homemade ravioli, lasagna, and pizza with barbecue or traditional toppings. 1063 S. Parkway E. 948-7652; 2850 Appling Rd. (Bartlett). 383-1122. L, D, X, $-$$ CURRY BOWL—Specializes in Southern Indian cuisine, serving Tandoori chicken, biryani, tikka masala, and more. Weekend buffet. 4141 Hacks Cross Rd. 207-6051. L, D, $ DELTA’S KITCHEN—The premier restaurant at The Guest House at Graceland serves Elvis-inspired dishes — like Nutella and Peanut Butter Crepes for breakfast — and upscale Southern cuisine — including lamb chops and shrimp and grits — for dinner. 3600 Elvis Presley Blvd. 443-3000. B, D, X, $-$$$ DWJ KOREAN BARBECUE—This authentic Korean eatery serves kimbap, barbecued beef short ribs, rice and noodles dishes, and hot pots and stews. 3750 Hacks Cross Rd., Suite 101. 746-8057; 2156 Young. 207-6204. L, D, $-$$ FABULOUS FLAVORS & FRIENDS—”The Candy Lady” Precious Thompson Jones comes up with a little bit of everything: omelettes, quesadillas, t-bones and waffles, and plenty of soul food. 2063 E. Brooks Rd. 314-0735. L, D, $ THE FOUR WAY—Legendary soul-food establishment dishing up such entrees as fried and baked catfish, chicken, and turkey and dressing, along with a host of vegetables and desserts. Around the corner from the legendary Stax Studio. Closed Monday. 998 Mississippi Blvd. 507-1519. L, D, $ HERNANDO’S HIDEAWAY–No one cares how late it gets; not at Hernando’s Hideaway. Live music, killer happy hour, and plenty of bar fare at this South Memphis hang. 3210 Old Hernando Rd. 917-982-1829. L, D, $ INTERSTATE BAR-B-Q—Specialties include chopped pork-shoulder sandwiches, ribs, hot wings, spaghetti, chicken, and turkey. 2265 S. Third. 775-2304; 150 W. Stateline Rd. (Southaven). 662-393-5699. L, D, X, $-$$ JIM & SAMELLA’S—It’s a revolving menu of soul food delight from Chef Talbert Fleming, with anything from southern ribs to fried tamales. 841 Bullington Ave. 265-8761. L, D, X, $ LEONARD’S—Serves wet and dry ribs, barbecue sandwiches, spaghetti, catfish, homemade onion rings, and lemon icebox pie; also a lunch buffet. 5465 Fox Plaza. 360-1963. L, X, $-$$ MARLOWE’S—In addition to its signature barbecue and ribs, Marlowe’s serves Southern-style steaks, chops, lasagna, and more. 4381 Elvis Presley Blvd. 332-4159. D, X, MRA, $-$$ UNCLE LOU’S FRIED CHICKEN—Featured on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives for good reason: fried chicken (mild, hot, or home-style); jumbo burgers four patties high; strawberry shortcake, and assorted fruit pies. 3633 Millbranch. 332-2367. L, D, X, MRA, $

SUMMER/BERCLAIR/ RALEIGH/BARTLETT

ASIAN PALACE—Chinese eatery serves seafood, vegetarian items, dim sum, and more. 5266 Summer Ave. 766-0831. L, D, X, $-$$ BISCUITS & JAMS—Biscuits, waffles, French toast, and plenty of sharables at this Bartlett breakfast spot. Closed Mon/Tue. 5806 Stage Rd. 672-7905. B, L, $ ELWOOD’S SHACK—Casual comfort food includes tacos, pizza, and sandwiches. Specialties include meats smoked in-house (chicken, turkey, brisket, pork), barbecue pizza, and steelhead trout tacos. 4523 Summer. 761-9898. B, L, D, X, $ EXLINES’ BEST PIZZA—Serves pizza, Italian dinners, sandwiches, and salads. 6250 Stage Rd. 382-3433; 2935 Austin Peay. 388-4711; 2801 Kirby Parkway. 754-0202; 7730 Wolf River Blvd. (Germantown). 753-4545; 531 W. Stateline Rd. 662-342-4544 (check online for additional locations). L, D, X, MRA, $ LA TAQUERIA GUADALUPANA—Fajitas and quesadillas are just a few of the authentic Mexican entrees offered here. A bona-fide Memphis institution. 4818 Summer. 685-6857; 5848 Winchester. 365-4992. L, D, $

The Memphis Dining Guide LOTUS—Authentic Vietnamese-Asian fare, including lemon-grass chicken and shrimp, egg rolls, Pho soup, and spicy Vietnamese vermicelli. 4970 Summer. 682-1151. D, X, $ MORTIMER’S—Contemporary American entrees include trout almondine, chicken dishes, and hand-cut steaks; also sandwiches, salads, and daily/nightly specials. A Memphis landmark since the Knickerbocker closed. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 590 N. Perkins. 761-9321. L, D, X, $-$$ NAGASAKI INN—Chicken, steak, and lobster are among the main courses; meal is cooked at your table. 3951 Summer. 454-0320. D, X, $$ NAM KING—General Tso’s chicken, hot and sour soup, and homemade chicken wings are back at the longtime Raleigh Chinese eatery. 3624 Austin Peay Highway, #3. 373-4411. L, D, $-$$ PANDA GARDEN—Sesame chicken and broccoli beef are among the Mandarin and Cantonese entrees; also seafood specials and fried rice. Closed for lunch Saturday. 3735 Summer. 323-4819. L, D, X, $-$$ QUEEN OF SHEBA—Featuring Middle Eastern favorites and Yemeni dishes such as lamb haneeth and saltah. 4792 Summer. 207-4174. L, D, $ SIDE PORCH STEAK HOUSE—In addition to steak, the menu includes chicken, pork chops, and fish entrees; homemade rolls are a specialty. Closed Sun.-Mon. 5689 Stage Rd. 377-2484. D, X, $-$$ TORTILLERIA LA UNICA—Individual helping of Mexican street food, including hefty tamales, burritos, tortas, and sopes. 5015 Summer Ave. 685-0097. B, L, D, X, $

UNIVERSITY NEIGHBORHOOD DISTRICT (INCLUDES CHICKASAW

GARDENS AND HIGHLAND STRIP) A-TAN—Serves Chinese and Japanese hibachi cuisine, complete with sushi bar. A specialty is Four Treasures with garlic sauce. 3445 Poplar, Suite 17, University Center. 452-4477. L, D, X, $-$$$ THE BLUFF—New Orleans-inspired menu includes alligator bites, nachos topped with crawfish and andouille, gumbo, po’boys, and fried seafood platters. 535 S. Highland. 454-7771. L, D, X, $-$$ BROTHER JUNIPER’S—This little cottage is a breakfast mecca, offering specialty omelets, including the open-faced San Diegan omelet; also daily specials, and homemade breads and pastries. Closed Mon. 3519 Walker. 324-0144. B, X, $ CHAR RESTAURANT—Specializing in modern Southern cuisine, this eatery offers homestyle sides, charbroiled steaks, and fresh seafood. 431 S. Highland, Suite 120. 249-3533. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ DERAE RESTAURANT—Ethiopian and Mediterranean fare includes fuul, or fava beans in spices and yogurt, goat meat and rice, and garlic chicken over basmati rice with cilantro chutney; also salmon and tilapia. Closed Monday. 923 S. Highland. 552-3992. B, L, D, $-$$ EL PORTON—Fajitas, quesadillas, and steak ranchero are just a few of the menu items. 2095 Merchants Row (Germantown). 754-4268; 8361 Highway 64. 380-7877; 3448 Poplar (Poplar Plaza). 452-7330; 1805 N. Germantown Parkway (Cordova). 624-9358; 1016 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-5770. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ JOES’ ON HIGHLAND—Specializes in fried chicken and comfort sides such as warm okra/green tomato salad and turnip greens. Entrees include salmon patties and chicken-fried steak. Closed Mon. 262 S. Highland. 337-7003. L, D, X, $ MEDALLION—Offers steaks, seafood, chicken, and pasta entrees. Closed for dinner Sunday. 3700 Central, Holiday Inn (Kemmons Wilson School of Hospitality). 678-1030. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ OPEN FLAME—This authentic Persian and Mediterranean eatery specializes in shish kebabs as well as kosher and halal fare. 3445 Poplar. 207-4995. L, D, X, $ PLANT BASED HEAT—All of your favorite Southern-style recipes, but deliciously transformed into a vegan format. Specialties include the spicy fye junt burger, or the chopped ‘n’ smoked bbq jackfruit sandwich. Closed Sun. 669 S. Highland St. L, D, $ SAM’S DELI—Everything from sandwiches to bibimbap bowls at this local favorite. Closed Mon/Tue. 643 S. Highland St. 454-5582. L, D, $

EAST MEMPHIS

(INCLUDES POPLAR/ I-240) ACRE—Features seasonal modern American cuisine in an avante-garde setting using locally sourced products; also small plates and enclosed garden patio. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 690 S. Perkins. 818-2273. L, D, X, $$-$$$ ANDALUSIA— Authentic Moroccan cuisine, including tagines, brochettes, and briouates. 5101 Sanderlin Ave., Suite 103. 236-7784. L, D, $-$$ AGAVOS COCINA & TEQUILA—Camaron de Tequila, tamales, kabobs, and burgers made with a blend of beef and chorizo are

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The Memphis Dining Guide among the offerings at this tequila-centric restaurant and bar. 2924 Walnut Grove. 433-9345. L, D, X, $-$$ AMERIGO—Traditional and contemporary Italian cuisine includes pasta, wood-fired pizza, steaks, and cedarwood-roasted fish. 1239 Ridgeway, Park Place Mall. 761-4000. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ ANDREW MICHAEL ITALIAN KITCHEN— Traditional Italian cuisine with a menu from two of the city’s top chefs that changes seasonally with such entrees as Maw Maw’s ravioli. Closed Sun.-Mon. 712 W. Brookhaven Circle. 347-3569. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ ANOTHER BROKEN EGG CAFE—Offering several varieties of eggs Benedict, waffles, omelets, pancakes, beignets, and other breakfast fare; also burgers, sandwiches, and salads. 6063 Park Ave. 729-7020; 65 S. Highland. 623-7122. B, L, WB, X, $ BANGKOK ALLEY—Thai fusion cuisine includes noodle and curry dishes, chef-specialty sushi rolls, coconut soup, and duck and seafood entrees. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. at Brookhaven location; call for hours. 715 W. Brookhaven Circle. 590-2585; 2150 W. Poplar at Houston Levee (Collierville). 854-8748. L, D, X, $-$$ BENIHANA—This Japanese steakhouse serves beef, chicken, and seafood grilled at the table; some menu items change monthly; sushi bar also featured. 912 Ridge Lake Blvd. 767-8980. L, D, X, $$-$$$ BIG BAD BREAKFAST—Fresh biscuits, house-made cured meats, jams, jellies, and more for the most important meal of the day. 6450 Poplar. More details coming soon. BLUE PLATE CAFÉ—For breakfast, the café’s serves old-fashioned buttermilk pancakes (it’s a secret recipe!), country ham and eggs, and waffles with fresh strawberries and cream. For lunch, the café specializes in country cooking. 5469 Poplar. 761-9696; 113 S. Court. 523-2050. B, L, X, $ BROOKLYN BRIDGE ITALIAN RESTAURANT—Specializing in such homemade entrees as spinach lasagna and lobster ravioli; a seafood specialty is horseradish-crusted salmon. Closed Sun. 1779 Kirby Pkwy. 755-7413. D, X, $-$$$ BRYANT’S BREAKFAST—Three-egg omelets, pancakes, and The Sampler Platter are among the popular entrees here. Possibly the best biscuits in town. Closed Mon. and Tues. 3965 Summer. 324-7494. B, L, X, $ BUCKLEY’S FINE FILET GRILL—Specializes in steaks, seafood, and pasta. (Lunchbox serves entree salads, burgers, and more.) 5355 Poplar. 683-4538; 919 S. Yates (Buckley’s Lunchbox), 682-0570. L (Yates only, M-F), D, X, $-$$ CAPITAL GRILLE—Known for its dry-aged, hand-carved steaks; among the specialties are bone-in sirloin, and porcini-rubbed Delmonico; also seafood entrees and seasonal lunch plates. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. Crescent Center, 6065 Poplar. 683-9291. L, D, X, $$$-$$$$ CASABLANCA—Lamb shawarma is one of the fresh, homemade specialties served at this Mediterranean/Moroccan restaurant; fish entrees and vegetarian options also available. 5030 Poplar. 7258557 ; 7609 Poplar Pike (Germantown). 425-5908; 1707 Madison. 421-6949. L, D, X, $-$$ CIAO BELLA—Among the Italian and Greek specialties are lasagna, seafood pasta, gourmet pizzas, and vegetarian options. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 565 Erin Dr., Erin Way Shopping Center. 205-2500. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$ CITY SILO TABLE + PANTRY—With a focus on clean eating, this establishment offers fresh juices, as well as comfort foods re-imagined with wholesome ingredients. 5101 Sanderlin. 7297687. Germantown: 7605 W. Farmington Blvd., Suite 2. 236-7223. B, L, D, X, $ COASTAL FISH COMPANY—Upscale offerings of international fish varieties utilizing styles ranging from Carribbean, East Coast, West Coast, Chinese, to Filipino, and more. 415 Great View Dr. E., Suite 101. 266-9000. D, X, $$-$$$ CORKY’S—Popular barbecue emporium offers both wet and dry ribs, plus a full menu of other barbecue entrees. Wed. lunch buffets, Cordova and Collierville. 5259 Poplar. 685-9744; 1740 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 737-1911; 743 W. Poplar (Collierville). 405-4999; 6434 Goodman Rd., Olive Branch. 662-893-3663. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ DAN MCGUINNESS PUB—Serves fish and chips, shepherd’s pie, burgers, and other Irish and American fare; also lunch and dinner specials. 4694 Spottswood. 761-3711; 3964 Goodman Rd. 662-890-7611. L, D, X, $ DORY—Chef David Krog whips up Southern specialties with classic French techniques and locally sourced ingredients. Current specialties include pork tenderloin, beef bourguignon, or cocoa-dusted

chocolate truffles, with new weekly additions. 716 W. Brookhaven Circle. 310-4290. L, D, X, $$-$$$ ERLING JENSEN—For decades, has presented “globally inspired” cuisine to die for. Specialties are rack of lamb, big game entrees, and fresh fish dishes. 1044 S. Yates. 763-3700. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ ERLING JENSEN SMALL BITES—Enjoy Erling Jensen’s specialty dishes in a sharable, small plate format alongside TopGolf Swing suites. 5069 Sanderlin Ave. 587-9464. L, D, X, $-$$$ FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE—Serves wet-aged and dry-aged steaks, prime beef, chops, and seafood, including salmon, Australian lobster tails, and a catch of the day. 6245 Poplar. 761-6200. D, X, MRA, $$$-$$$$ FOLK’S FOLLY ORIGINAL PRIME STEAK HOUSE—Specializes in prime steaks, as well as lobster, grilled Scottish salmon, Alaskan king crab legs, rack of lamb, and weekly specials. 551 S. Mendenhall. 762-8200. D, X, MRA, $$$-$$$$ FORMOSA—Offers Mandarin cuisine, including broccoli beef, hot-and-sour soup, and spring rolls. Closed Monday. 6685 Quince. 753-9898. L, D, X, $-$$ FOX RIDGE PIZZA & GRILL—Pizzas, calzones, sub sandwiches, burgers, and meat-and-two plate lunches are among the dishes served at this eatery, which opened in 1979. 711 W. Brookhaven Circle 758-6500. L, D, X, $ FRATELLI’S—Serves hot and cold sandwiches, salads, soups, and desserts, all with an Italian/Mediterranean flair. Closed Sunday. 750 Cherry Rd., Memphis Botanic Garden. 766-9900. L, X, $ FRANK GRISANTI’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT—Northern Italian favorites include pasta with jumbo shrimp and mushrooms; also seafood, filet mignon, and daily lunch specials. Closed for lunch Sunday. Embassy Suites Hotel, 1022 S. Shady Grove. 761-9462. L, D, X, $-$$$ HALF SHELL—Specializes in seafood, such as king crab legs; also serves steaks, chicken, pastas, salads, sandwiches, a ”voodoo menu”; oyster bar at Winchester location. 688 S. Mendenhall. 682-3966; 7825 Winchester. 737-6755. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ HEN HOUSE—Hybrid wine/cocktail bar and tasting room with plenty of cosmopolitan eats. Closed Sun. 679 S. Mendenhall. 499-5436. D, $-$$$ HIGH POINT PIZZA—Serves a variety of pizzas, subs, salads, and sides. Closed Monday. A neighborhood fixture. 477 High Point Terrace. 452-3339. L, D, X, $-$$ HOG & HOMINY—The casual sister to Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen serves brick-oven-baked pizzas, including the Red-Eye with pork belly, and small plates with everything from meatballs to beef and cheddar hot dogs; and local veggies. And with a few surprises this time around. Closed for lunch Mon. 707 W. Brookhaven Cir. 207-7396. L, D, SB, X, MRA. $-$$$ HOUSTON’S—Serves steaks, seafood, pork chops, chicken dishes, sandwiches, salads, and Chicago-style spinach dip. Famous for first-class service. 5000 Poplar. 683-0915. L, D, X $-$$$ LA BAGUETTE—An almond croissant and chicken salad are among specialties at this French-style bistro. Closed for dinner Sun. 3088 Poplar. 458-0900. B, L, D (closes at 7), X, MRA, $ LAS DELICIAS—Popular for its guacamole, house-made tortilla chips, and margaritas, this restaurant draws diners with its chicken enchiladas, meat-stuffed flautas, and Cuban torta with spicy pork. Closed Sunday. 4002 Park Ave. 458-9264; 5689 Quince. 800-2873. L, D, X, $ LIBRO AT LAURELWOOD—Bookstore eatery features a variety of sandwiches, salads, and homemade pasta dishes, with Italianinspired options such as carbonara and potato gnocchi. Closed for dinner Sun. 387 Perkins Ext. (Novel). 800-2656. B, L, D, SB, X, $-$$ LOST PIZZA—Offering pizzas (with dough made from scratch), pasta, salads, sandwiches, tamales, and more. 2855 Poplar. 5721803; 5960 Getwell (Southaven). 662-892-8684. L, D, X, $-$$ LYNCHBURG LEGENDS—This restaurant with a Jack Daniels’ theme and Southern cuisine serves such entrees as Bourbon Street salmon, buttermilk-fried chicken, and grilled steak and wild mushroom salad. DoubleTree Hotel, 5069 Sanderlin. 969-7777. B, L, D, X, $-$$$ MAGNOLIA & MAY—The family behind Grove Grill cooks up Southern-inspired casual dining at this country brasserie, with popular menu items like peach gazpacho, low country shrimp n’ grits, and plenty of weekend brunch options. Closed Mon. 718 Mt. Moriah Rd. 676-8100. D, SB, MRA. $$-$$$. MAHOGANY MEMPHIS—Upscale Southern restaurant offers such dishes as coffee-rubbed lamb chops and baked Cajun Cornish

hen. Closed for dinner Sun. and all day Mon.-Tues. 3092 Poplar, Suite 11. 623-7977. L, D, SB, X, $-$$$ MARCIANO MEDITERRANEAN AND ITALIAN CUISINE—Veal Saltimbocca with angel-hair pasta and white wine sauce is among the entrees; also steaks, seafood, and gourmet pizza. 780 Brookhaven Circle. 682-1660. D, X, $-$$  MAYURI INDIAN CUISINE—Serves tandoori chicken, masala dosa, tikka masala, as well as lamb and shrimp entrees; also a daily lunch buffet, and dinner buffet on Fri.-Sat. 6524 Quince Rd. 753-8755. L, D, X, $-$$ MELLOW MUSHROOM—Large menu includes assortment of pizzas, salads, calzones, hoagies, vegetarian options, and 50 beers on tap. 5138 Park Ave. 562-1211; 9155 Poplar, Shops of Forest Hill (Germantown). 907-0243. L, D, X, $-$$ MOSA ASIAN BISTRO—Specialties include sesame chicken, Thai calamari, rainbow panang curry with grouper fish, and other Pan Asian/fusion entrees. Closed Mon. 850 S. White Station Rd. 683-8889. L, D, X, MRA, $ NAM KING—Offers luncheon and dinner buffets, dim sum, and such specialties as fried dumplings, pepper steak, and orange chicken. 4594 Yale. 373-4411. L, D, X, $  NAPA CAFE—Among the specialties are miso-marinated salmon over black rice with garlic spinach and shiitake mushrooms. Closed Sun. 5101 Sanderlin, Suite 122. 683-0441. L, D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ NEW HUNAN—Chinese eatery with more than 80 entrees; also lunch/dinner buffets. 5052 Park. 766-1622. L, D, X, $ ONE & ONLY BBQ—On the menu are pork barbecue sandwiches, platters, wet and dry ribs, smoked chicken and turkey platters, a smoked meat salad, barbecue quesadillas, Brunswick Stew, and Millie’s homemade desserts. 1779 Kirby Pkwy. 751-3615; 567 Perkins Extd. 249-4227. L, D, X, $ ONO POKÉ—This eatery specializes in poké — a Hawaiian dish of fresh fish salad served over rice. Menu includes a variety of poké bowls, like the Kimchi Tuna bowl, or customers can build their own by choosing a base, protein, veggies, and toppings. 3145 Poplar. 618-2955. L, D, X, $ OWEN BRENNAN’S—New Orleans-style menu of beef, chicken, pasta, and seafood; jambalaya, shrimp and grits, and crawfish etouffee are specialties. Closed for dinner Sunday. The Regalia, 6150 Poplar. 761-0990. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ PARK + CHERRY—The Dixon offers casual dining within the museum. Seasonal menu features sandwiches, like rustic chicken salad on croissant, as well as salads, snacks, and sweets. Closed for breakfast Sun. and all day Mon. 4339 Park (Dixon Gallery and Gardens). 761-5250. L, X, $ PATRICK’S—Serves barbecue nachos, burgers, and entrees such as fish and chips; also plate lunches and daily specials. 4972 Park. 682-2852. L, D, X, MRA, $ PETE & SAM’S—Serving Memphis for 60-plus years; offers steaks, seafood, and traditional Italian dishes, including homemade ravioli, lasagna, and chicken marsala. 3886 Park. 458-0694. D, X, $-$$$ PF CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO—Specialties are orange peel shrimp, Mongolian beef, and chicken in lettuce wraps; also vegetarian dishes, including spicy eggplant. 1181 Ridgeway Rd., Park Place Centre. 818-3889. L, D, X, $-$$ PHO SAIGON—Vietnamese fare includes beef teriyaki, roasted quail, curry ginger chicken, vegetarian options, and a variety of soups. 2946 Poplar. 458-1644. L, D, $ PIMENTO’S KITCHEN + MARKET—Fresh sandwiches, soups, salads, and plenty of pimento cheese at this family-owned restaurant. 6540 Poplar Ave. 602-5488 (Collierville: 3751 S. Houston Levee. 453-6283). L, D, X, $ PYRO’S FIRE-FRESH PIZZA—Serving gourmet pizzas cooked in an open-fire oven, wide choice of toppings, and large local and craft beer selection. 1199 Ridgeway. 379-8294; 2035 Union Ave. 208-8857; 2286 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 207-1198; 3592 S. Houston Levee (Collierville). 221-8109. L, D, X, MRA, $ RED HOOK CAJUN SEAFOOD & BAR—Cajun-style array of seafood including shrimp, mussels, clams, crawfish, and oysters. 3295 Poplar. 207-1960. L, D, X, $-$$ RED KOI—Classic Japanese cuisine offered at this family-run restaurant; hibachi steaks, sushi, seafood, chicken, and vegetables. 5847 Poplar. 767-3456. L, D, X $-$$ RED PIER CAJUN SEAFOOD & BAR—Owners of Red Hook bring more cajun-style seafood dishes. 5901 Poplar Ave. 512-5923. L, D, $-$$$ RESTAURANT IRIS—French Creole-inspired classics, such as Gulf shrimp and rice grits congee served with lap chong sausage and boiled peanuts, are served at this newly remodeled restaurant owned by Chef Kelly English, a Food and Wine “Top Ten.” Opening soon at 4550 Poplar. 590-2828. D, X, $$-$$$

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“Full of humor, spirit, and sass …” Everything That’s True — Selected Writing from the Memphis Flyer and Memphis magazine is a great read — and a great gift.

Autographed and personalized copies available. Order today at bit.ly/BruceVBook

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The Memphis Dining Guide RIVER OAKS—Chef Jose Gutierrez’s French-style bistro serves seafood and steaks, with an emphasis on fresh local ingredients. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 5871 Poplar Ave. 683-9305. L, D, X, $$$ RONNIE GRISANTI’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT— This Memphis institution serves some family classics such as Elfo’s Special and handmade ravioli, along with house-made pizza and fresh oysters. Closed Sun. 6150 Poplar, Suite 122. 850-0191. D, X, $-$$$ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE—Offers prime steaks cut and aged in-house, as well as lamb, chicken, and fresh seafood, including lobster. 6120 Poplar. 761-0055. D, X, $$$-$$$$ SALSA—Mexican-Southern California specialties include carnitas, enchiladas verde, and fajitas; also Southwestern seafood dishes such as snapper verde. Closed Sun. Regalia Shopping Center, 6150 Poplar, Suite 129. 683-6325. L, D, X, $-$$ SAUCY CHICKEN—Specializes in antibiotic-free chicken dishes with locally sourced ingredients, with such items as hot wings and the Crosstown Chicken Sandwich, and a variety of housemade dipping sauces; also, seafood, salads, and daily specials. Closed Sun. 4715 Poplar. 907-0741. L, D, $ SEASONS 52—This elegant fresh grill and wine bar offers a seasonally changing menu using fresh ingredients, wood-fire grilling, and brick-oven cooking; also a large international wine list and nightly piano bar. Crescent Center, 6085 Poplar. 682-9952. L, D, X, $$-$$$ SOBEAST—Eastern branch of the popular South of Beale, featuring the restaurant’s traditional staples, as well as rotating special menu items. 5040 Sanderlin. 818-0821. L, D, SB, X, $-$$. SOUTHALL CAFE—Locally sourced ingredients bolster a chef-driven menu offering breakfast and lunch classics. 669 S. Mendenhall. 646-5698. B, L, WB, X, $ STAKS—Offering pancakes, including birthday cake and lemon ricotta. Menu includes other breakfast items such as beignets and French toast, as well as soups and sandwiches for lunch. 4615 Poplar. 509-2367; 7704 Poplar (Germantown). 800-1951. B, L, WB, X, $ SUSHI JIMMI—This food truck turned restaurant serves a variety of sushi rolls, fusion dishes — such as kimchi fries — and sushi burritos. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Mon. 2895 Poplar. 729-6985. L, D, X, $ SWANKY’S TACO SHOP—Taco-centric eatery offers tortas, flatbreads, quesadillas, chimichangas, burgers, and more. 4770 Poplar. 730-0763; 6641 Poplar (Germantown). 737-2088; 272 S. Main. 779-3499. L, D, X, $ THREE LITTLE PIGS—Pork-shoulder-style barbecue with tangy mild or hot sauce, freshly made coleslaw, and baked beans. 5145 Quince Rd. 685-7094. B, L, D, X, $ TOPS BAR-B-Q—Specializes in pork barbecue sandwiches and sandwich plates with beans and slaw; also serves ribs, beef brisket, and burgers. 1286 Union. 725-7527; 4183 Summer. 3244325; 5391 Winchester. 794-7936; 3970 Rhodes. 323-9865; 6130 Macon. 371-0580. For more locations, go online. L, D, X, $ TORCHY’S TACOS—Plenty of Tex-Mex variety, with creative monthly special tacos. 719 S. Mendenhall. 3438880. B, L, D, $ VENICE KITCHEN—Specializes in “eclectic Italian” and Southern Creole, from pastas, including the “Godfather,” to hand-tossed pizzas, including the “John Wayne”; choose from 50 toppings. 368 Perkins Ext. 767-6872. L, D, SB, X, $-$$ WANG’S MANDARIN HOUSE—Offers Mandarin, Cantonese, Szechuan, and spicy Hunan entrees, including the golden-sesame chicken; next door is East Tapas, serving small plates with an Asian twist. 6065 Park Ave., Park Place Mall. 763-0676. L, D, X, $-$$ WASABI—Serving traditional Japanese offerings, hibachi, sashimi, and sushi. The Sweet Heart roll, wrapped — in the shape of a heart — with tuna and filled with spicy salmon, yellowtail, and avocado, is a specialty. 5101 Sanderlin Rd., Suite 105. 4216399. L, D, X, $-$$ WOMAN’S EXCHANGE TEA ROOM—Chicken-salad plate, beef tenderloin, soups-and-sandwiches, and vegetable plates are specialties; meal includes drink and dessert. Closed Sat.-Sun. 88 Racine. 327-5681. L, X, $ ZAYDE’S AT THE J—Kosher options at the Memphis Jewish Community Center cafe include traditional New York-style dishes and Israeli fusion. 6560 Poplar Ave. 208-3495. L, D, $-$$

CORDOVA BOMBAY HOUSE—Indian fare includes lamb korma and chicken tikka; also, a daily luncheon buffet. 1727 N. Germantown Pkwy. 755-4114. L, D, X, $-$$ THE BUTCHER SHOP—Serves steaks ranging from 8-oz. filets to a 20-oz. porterhouse; also chicken, pork chops, fresh seafood. 107 S. Germantown Rd. 757-4244. L (Fri. and Sun.), D, X, $$-$$$ GREEN BAMBOO—Pineapple tilapia, pork vermicelli, and the soft egg noodle combo are Vietnamese specialties here. 990 N. Germantown Parkway, Suite 104. 753-5488. L, D, $-$$ KING JERRY LAWLER’S MEMPHIS BBQ COMPANY— Offers a variety of barbecue dishes, including brisket, ribs, nachos topped with smoked pork, and a selection of barbecue “Slamwiches.” 465 N. Germantown Pkwy., Suite 116. 509-2360. L, D, X, $ JIM ’N NICK’S BAR-B-Q—Serves barbecued pork, ribs, chicken, brisket, and fish, along with other homemade Southern specialties. 2359 N. Germantown Pkwy. 388-0998. L, D, X, $-$$ EL MERO TACO—This food truck turned restaurant serves up Mexican and Southern-style fusion dishes, including fried chicken tacos, chorizo con papas tacos, and brisket quesadillas. 8100 Macon Station, Suite 102. 308-1661. Closed Sun.-Mon. L, D, WB, X, $ POKÉ WORLD—Serves up Hawaiian poké bowls filled with rice and diced, raw fish. Also offers Taiwanese bubble tea and rolled ice cream for dessert. 1605 N. Germantown Pkwy., Suite 111. 623-7986. East Memphis: 575 Erin Dr. 779-4971. L, D, $ SHOGUN JAPANESE RESTAURANT—Entrees include tempura, teriyaki, and sushi, as well as grilled fish and chicken entrees. 2324 N. Germantown Pkwy. 384-4122. L, D, X, $-$$ TANNOOR GRILL—Brazilian-style steakhouse with skewers served tableside, along with Middle Eastern specialties; vegetarian options also available. 830 N. Germantown Pkwy. 443-5222. L, D, X, $-$$$

GERMANTOWN

BLUE HONEY BISTRO—Entrees at this upscale eatery include brown butter scallops served with Mississippi blue rice and herb-crusted beef tenderloin with vegetables and truffle butter. Closed Sun. 9155 Poplar, Suite 17. 552-3041. D, X, $-$$$ FOREST HILL GRILL—A variety of standard pub fare and a selection of mac-and-cheese dishes are featured on the menu. Specialties include Chicken Newport and a barbecue salmon BLT. 9102 Poplar Pike. 624-6001. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ GERMANTOWN COMMISSARY—Serves barbecue sandwiches, sliders, ribs, shrimp, and nachos, as well as smoked barbecued bologna sandwiches; Mon.-night all-you-can-eat ribs. 2290 S. Germantown Rd. S. 754-5540. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ KOHESIAN SOKO STYLE EATERY—Korean-American eatery serves up fusion-style dishes like bibimbap burgers or gochujang marinated loaded spicy pork nachos. 1730 S. Germantown Rd. 308-0223. L, D, X, $$ LAS TORTUGAS DELI MEXICANA—Authentic Mexican food prepared from local food sources; specializes in tortugas — grilled bread scooped out to hold such powerfully popular fillings as brisket, pork, and shrimp; also tingas, tostados. Closed Sunday. 1215 S. Germantown Rd. 751-1200; 6300 Poplar. 623-3882. L, D, X, $-$$ MOONDANCE GRILL—From the owners of Itta Bena and Lafayette’s. Serves steak cooked sous vide and seafood dishes including Abita-barbecued shrimp and pan-seared sand dab, in addition to an extensive wine and cocktail list. 1730 S. Germantown Road, Suite 117. 755-1471. L, D, X, $$-$$$ NOODLES ASIAN BISTRO—Serves a variety of traditional Asian cuisine, with emphasis on noodle dishes, such as Singapore Street Noodles and Hong Kong Chow Fun. 7850 Poplar, Suite 12. 755-1117. L, D, X, $ PETRA CAFÉ—Serves Greek, Italian, and Middle Eastern sandwiches, gyros, and entrees. Hours vary; call. 6641 Poplar. 754-4440; 547 S. Highland. 323-3050. L, D, X, $-$$ ROCK’N DOUGH PIZZA CO.—Specialty and custom pizzas made from fresh ingredients; wide variety of toppings. 7850 Poplar, Suite 6. 779-2008. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $$ ROYAL PANDA—Hunan fish, Peking duck, Royal Panda chicken and shrimp, and a seafood combo are among the specialties. 3120 Village Shops Dr. 756-9697. L, D, X, $-$$ RUSSO’S NEW YORK PIZZERIA AND WINE BAR—Serves gourmet pizzas, calzones, and pasta, including lasagna, fettuccine Alfredo, scampi, and more. 9087 Poplar, Suite 111. 755-0092. L, D, WB, X, $-$$

SAKURA—Sushi, tempura, and teriyaki are Japanese specialties here. 2060 West St. 758-8181; 4840 Poplar. 572-1002. L, D, X, $-$$ SOUTHERN SOCIAL—Shrimp and grits, stuffed quail, and Aunt Thelma’s Fried Chicken are among the dishes served at this upscale Southern establishment. 2285 S. Germantown Rd. 754-5555. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ TAZIKI’S—Mediterranean-inspired dishes all made from scratch. 7850 Poplar Ave., Suite 26. 612-2713. East Memphis: 540 S. Mendenhall Rd. 290-1091. Bartlett: 7974 US-64. 203-0083. L, D, $ WEST STREET DINER—This home-style eatery offers breakfast, burgers, po’boys, and more. 2076 West St. 757-2191. B, L, D (Mon.-Fri.), X, $ ZEN JAPANESE FINE CUISINE—A full sushi bar and plenty of authentic Japanese dishes, like Hibachi or Wagyu beef. 1730 S. Germantown Rd. 779-2796. L, D, X, X, $-$$$

COLLIERVILLE

CAFE EUROPE—From Italian chef Michele D’oto, the French, Spanish, and Italian fusion cuisine includes a variety of dishes like Rosette al Forno, fish ceviche, and sole meuniere. Closed Sun. 4610 Merchants Park Circle, Suite 571. 286-4199. L, D, X, $$-$$$$ CAFE PIAZZA BY PAT LUCCHESI—Specializes in gourmet pizzas (including create-your-own), panini sandwiches, and pasta. Closed Sun. 139 S. Rowlett St. 861-1999. L, D, X, $-$$ CIAO BABY—Specializing in Neapolitan-style pizza made in a woodfired oven. Also serves house-made mozzarella, pasta, appetizers, and salads. 890 W. Poplar, Suite 1. 457-7457. L, D, X, $ COLLIERVILLE COMMISSARY—Serves barbecue sandwiches, sliders, ribs, shrimp, and nachos, as well as smoked barbecued bologna sandwiches. 3573 S. Houston Levee Rd. 979-5540. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ DAVID GRISANTI’S—Serving Northern Italian cuisine and traditional family recipes, like the Elfo Special, shrimp sauteed in garlic and butter, tossed with white button mushrooms and white pepper, and served over vermicelli with Parmigiano-Reggiano. Closed Sun. 684 W. Poplar (Sheffield Antiques Mall). 861-1777. L, D (Thurs.-Sat.), X, $-$$$ EL MEZCAL—Serves burritos, chimichangas, fajitas, and other Mexican cuisine, as well as shrimp dinners and steak. 9947 Wolf River, 853-7922; 402 Perkins Extd. 761-7710; 694 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 755-1447; 1492 Union. 274-4264; 11615 Airline Rd. (Arlington). 867-1883; 9045 Highway 64 (Lakeland). 383-4219; 7164 Hacks Cross Rd. (Olive Branch). 662-890-3337; 8834 Hwy. 51 N. (Millington). 872-3220; 7424 Highway 64 (Bartlett). 417-6026. L, D, X, $ EMERALD THAI RESTAURANT—Spicy shrimp, pad khing, lemongrass chicken, and several noodle, rice, and vegetarian dishes are offered at this family restaurant. Closed Sunday. 8950 Highway 64 (Lakeland, TN). 384-0540. L, D, X, $-$$ FIREBIRDS—Specialties are hand-cut steaks, slow-roasted prime rib, and wood-grilled salmon and other seafood, as well as seasonal entrees. 4600 Merchants Circle, Carriage Crossing. 850-1637; 8470 Highway 64 (Bartlett). 379-1300. L, D, X, $-$$$ JIM’S PLACE GRILLE—Features American, Greek, and Continental cuisine. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 3660 Houston Levee. 861-5000. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$ MULAN ASIAN BISTRO—Hunan Chicken, tofu dishes, and orange beef served here; sushi and Thai food, too. 2059 Houston Levee. 850-5288; 2149 Young. 347-3965; 4698 Spottswood. 609-8680. L, D, X, $-$$  OSAKA JAPANESE CUISINE—Featuring an extensive sushi menu as well as traditional Japanese and hibachi dining. Hours vary for lunch; call. 3670 Houston Levee. 861-4309; 3402 Poplar. 249-4690; 7164 Hacks Cross (Olive Branch). 662-890-9312; 2200 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 425-4901. L, D, X, $-$$$ RAVEN & LILY—Eatery offers innovative Southern-inspired cuisine with such dishes as crispy shrimp and cauliflower salad, spiced lamb sausage and parmesan risotto, and bananas foster pain perdu. Closed Monday. 120 E. Mulberry. 286-4575. L, D, SB, X, $-$$ STIX—Hibachi steakhouse with Asian cuisine features steak, chicken, and a fillet and lobster combination, also sushi. A specialty is Dynamite Chicken with fried rice. 4680 Merchants Park Circle, Avenue Carriage Crossing. 854-3399. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 115 (Downtown). 207-7638 L, D, X, $-$$ WOLF RIVER BRISKET CO.—From the owners of Pyro’s Fire Fresh Pizza, highlights include house-smoked meats: prime beef brisket, chicken, and salmon. Closed Sun. 9947 Wolf River Boulevard, Suite 101. 316-5590; 1350 Concourse Ave, Suite 165. 791-4389 L, D, X, $-$$ ZOPITA’S ON THE SQUARE—Cafe offers sandwiches, including smoked salmon and pork tenderloin, as well as salads and desserts. Closed Sun. 114 N. Main. 457-7526. L, D, X, $

OUT-OF-TOWN

BOZO’S HOT PIT BAR-B-Q—Barbecue, burgers, sandwiches, and subs. 342 Hwy. 70 (Mason, TN). 901-294-3400. L, D, $-$$

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The Memphis Dining Guide CATFISH BLUES—Serving Delta-raised catfish and Cajun- and Southern-inspired dishes, including gumbo and fried green tomatoes. 210 E. Commerce (Hernando, MS). 662-298-3814. L, D, $ CITY GROCERY—Southern eclectic cuisine; shrimp and grits is a specialty. Closed for dinner Sunday. 152 Courthouse Square (Oxford, MS). 662-232-8080. L, D, SB, X, $$-$$$ COMO STEAKHOUSE—Steaks cooked on a hickory charcoal grill are a specialty here. Upstairs is an oyster bar. Closed Sun. 203 Main St. (Como, MS). 662-526-9529. D, X, $-$$$ ELFO GRISANTI’S NORTHERN ITALIAN CUISINE—Grisanti family classics like lasagna, homemade ravioli, garlic bread, and Northern Italian pizza. Closed Sun. 5627 Getwell Rd. (Southaven, MS). 662-470-4497. L, D, X, $-$$ LONG ROAD CIDER CO.—Specializes in hard apple ciders made with traditional methods. Cafe-style entrees include black-eyed peas with cornbread and greens, chicken Gorgonzola pockets, cider-steamed sausage, and housemade ice creams. Closed Sun.Wed. 9053 Barret Road. (Barretville, TN). 352-0962. D, X, $ MANILA FILIPINO RESTAURANT—Entrees include pork belly cutlet with lechon sauce, and shrimp and vegetables in tamarind broth; also daily combos, rice dishes, and chef specials. Closed Sun.-Mon. 7849 Rockford (Millington, TN). 209-8525. L, D, X, $

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MARSHALL STEAKHOUSE—Rustic steakhouse serves premium Angus beef steaks, seafood dishes, rack of lamb, and more. 2379 Highway 178 (Holly Springs, MS). 628-3556. B, L, D, X, $-$$$ MEMPHIS BARBECUE COMPANY—Offers spare ribs, baby backs, and pulled pork and brisket. 709 Desoto Cove (Horn Lake, MS). 662-536-3762. L, D, X, $-$$ NAGOYA—Offers traditional Japanese cuisine and sushi bar; specialties are teriyaki and tempura dishes. 7075 Malco Blvd., Suite 101 (Southaven, MS). 662-349-8788. L, D, X, $-$$$  PANCHO’S—Serves up a variety of Mexican standards, including tacos, enchiladas, and mix-and-match platters. 3600 E. Broadway (West Memphis, AR). 870-735-6466. 717 N. White Station. 685-5404. L, D, X, MRA, $ PIG-N-WHISTLE—Offers pork shoulder sandwiches, wet and dry ribs, catfish, nachos, and stuffed barbecue potatoes. 6084 Kerr-Rosemark Rd. (Millington, TN). 872-2455. L, D, X, $ RAVINE—Serves contemporary Southern cuisine with an emphasis on fresh, locally grown foods and a menu that changes weekly. Closed Mon.-Tues. 53 Pea Ridge/County Rd. 321 (Oxford, MS). 662-234-4555. D, SB, X, $$-$$$ SAINT LEO’S—Offering sophisticated pizzas, pastas, sandwiches, and salads. A James Beard nominee for Best New Restaurant in 2017. 1101 Jackson (Oxford, MS). 662-234-4555. D, L, WB, $-$$ SNACKBAR—Billed as an intriguing mix of “French Bistro with North Mississippi Cafe.” Serving a confit duck Croque Monsieur, watermelon-cucumber chaat, pan-fried quail, plus a daily plate special and a raw bar. 721 N. Lamar (Oxford, MS). 662-236-6363. D, $-$$$ WILSON CAFE—Serving elevated home-cooking, with such dishes as deviled eggs with cilantro and jalapeño, scampi and grits, and doughnut bread pudding. 2 N. Jefferson (Wilson, AR). 870-655-0222. L, D (Wed. through Sat. only), X, $-$$$

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Before and After Without hope, we’re stuck in the between. BY ABIGAIL MORICI

e’re taught history in chapters with clearly defined eras of cause and effect. Before this coup, after that law. That’s how I like to look at my life. Before my sister was born, and after. Before I adopted my dog, and after. Before I moved to Memphis, and after. The befores and afters keep things tidy in my mind, especially when it comes to the bigger events. Take for instance, Hurricane ing on the floors, our furniture Katrina in 2005. A few weeks overturned. I f lip through my before, I had just lost my first first-grade yearbook, the first tooth — a monumental moment few pages dedicated to images for 6-year-old me with the next that captured the ruined classmonumental moment being a catrooms, the chalkboards marked egory-five hurricane that uprootwith a waterline that would soon ed my entire family. And somegrow familiar to me. But when where in between, I had started I turn the page of my yearbook first grade, not as big of a deal I or the family photo album, I can suppose, but it was my “before.” see the “after” — going back to Being a 6-year-old, I I imagine the postschool at a tempocould only comprerary location, seeing Covid world to be hend so much — the my friends again, fact that my stuffed much like a postseeing sheetrock go animals had floated Katrina world, where up in our house, the away into a canal was echoes of the past un- streetlights coming perhaps my biggest consciously intertwine back on. By the end concern. We had of 2006, the normal with the present. eight feet of water of our post-Katrina in our home, but we were lucky. world had been established for All our family evacuated, and we my family. I grew used to empwere able to rebuild and recover. ty lots on our street, seeing Now, I look at pictures that spray-painted Xs on front doors, my parents took of our house the constant construction that post-Katrina, the walls of my slowly died down. home dotted with mold, a thick Fifteen years later, we’ve all layer of mud caked and crackbeen through another historic

The same den today. event with the pandemic, but this time we’re still waiting for the “after.” With Katrina, in my 6-year-old perspective at least, there was a clear path to recovery, a common goal and a common hope to rebuild so we could return home. With Covid, at the beginning, I thought there was a clear path to recovery, a common goal to socially distance, to get vaccinated, to heal so we could return to each other. We had phases implemented, but with the spread of variants and misinformation, it feels like we’re at a standstill, where we can’t even bring ourselves to hope for a better year in 2022. The effects of Covid will outlast its “after,” when we can safely say we are out of a pandemic, if ever. I imagine the post-Covid world to be much like a post-Katrina world, where echoes of the past unconsciously intertwine with the present. When I’m sleeping and dream of home, I dream of the way my house looked before Katrina, the way our street had houses instead of empty lots and trees that kept the front lawns shady. I can’t explain why, since most of my life has been in a post-Katrina world, but it’s like when I’m watching a movie or TV show and none of the char-

acters are wearing a mask and I feel anxious as if I’ve forgotten my mask much like them. I went home the other weekend, and to my surprise, a house was being built across the street. It’ll be finished with the new year, and it’ll be the first time since 2005 there’s a home there instead of an empty lot. Before Katrina, it was our neighbor’s — my Nana’s — home. I took my first steps there and insisted on playing with her paper blinds despite the basket of toys she kept in her closet just for my sister and me. Now, she lives in Chicago and visits with her husband and their two girls every year. It’ll be strange knowing that she’ll never live there again, as if that empty lot preserved a sense of hope for the past, a craving for a memory. Recovering from a historical moment doesn’t mean forgetting; it doesn’t mean we won’t long for life “before.” But we can’t resist the change that comes with the “after,” much in the same way we can’t resist the coming of a new year. A new year doesn’t equate a fresh start, despite how much we want it to, but at least the New Year allows us to resolve to be better, to embrace change should it come. And maybe that’s what we need right now, some hope that’ll push us towards our “after.”

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY ABIGAIL MORICI

Abigail’s den after Katrina.

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