Memphis magazine, May 2018 by Contemporary Media

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VOL XLIII NO 2 | M AY 2 018

PHOTOGRAPH BY CRAIG THOMPSON / MEMPHIS CVB

THE CITY MAGAZINE

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VOL XLIII NO 2 | MAY 2018

THE CITY MAGAZINE

VOL XLIII NO 1 | M A R C H 2 018

USA $4.99

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on the cover Exploring new bike trails is just one of many ways to enjoy a Memphis staycation.

This Month

24 The Maverick

Al Bell reflects on Stax Records and six decades in the music industry.

PHOTOGRAPH BY CRAIG THOMPSON COURTESY MEMPHIS CVB

~ by alex greene

33 Staycation Destination

The Airbnb revolution comes to Memphis. ~ by jill johnson piper

Up Front 12 14 18 20

42 From Field to Florists

How Garden District’s growers deliver remarkable beauty from all around the world.

~ by anne cunningham o’neill

IN THE BEGINNING WE SAW YOU

51 901 HEALTH

Making It Personal

FINE PRINT

When his son was born with diabetes, Dr. Kashif Latif found his true calling.

OUT AND ABOUT

~ by michael finger PET GUIDE

Healing Hands From dermatology to ophthalmology and beyond, a group of Memphis specialists can help your ailing pet. ~ by shara clark ASK VANCE

Collierville’s Mystery Tomb Our trivia expert solves local mysteries of who, what, when, where, why, and why not.

~ by vance lauderdale GARDEN VARIETY

The Perfect Place Barbara Rea has transformed a grassy lawn into a truly special garden in East Memphis. ~ by christine arpe gang DINING OUT

The Real Deal Nurtured for decades by a family who cares, Lotus restaurant turns Vietnamese cooking into a fragrant feast. ~ by pamela denney

86 city dining

Tidbits: Indian Pass Raw Bar & Grill; plus the city’s most extensive dining listings.

73 84

LAST STAND

Stay With Me One day, one adventure in a familiar — and fabulous — city.

~ by frank murtaugh

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Memphis (ISSN 1622-820x) is published monthly for $15 per year by Contemporary Media, Inc., P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101 © 2018. Telephone: 901-521-9000. For subscription info, please call 901-521-9000. Subscription customer service mailing address is Memphis magazine, P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101. All rights reserved. • Periodicals Postage Paid at Memphis, TN. Postmasters: send address changes to Memphis, P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101.

M AY 20 18 • MEMPHISM AG A ZINE.COM • 7

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BONUS

Memphis Magazine’s

THE 2018

Coming In June

FACE OF

T OP DOC T ORS IS SUE

ORIENTAL RUGS

Our widely read annual feature presents the area’s leading physicians as chosen by their peers.

Coming In July REmodel

REMODEL MEMPHIS

Your 2018 Guide to Home Remodeling Tips & Trends Looking to update or completely remodel your kitchen, bath, outdoor living space, or even your entire home? Highly qualified Memphis-area builders, architects, designers, and more stand ready to help make your space modern, cozy, and more functional. On the following pages, we feature two such projects — along with before-and-after photos — and talk with the happy homeowners whose dream homes have become reality with the help of local professionals. — by Shara Clark

a special supplement to

STANDARD OF EXCELLENCE SINCE 1950

J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 8 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 57

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Coming In August CIT Y GUIDE

ALL ABOUT ELVIS | WHO’S WHO & WHAT TO DO | TOP 50 RESTAURANTS

Memphis • THE CITY MAGAZINE • W W W.MEMPHISMAGAZINE.COM

appraisals sales color run restoration pet and other stain removals moth damage odor removal storage and much more

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Memphis magazine and the Remodelers Council of the West Tennessee Home Builders Association have collaborated to produce before-and-after images and the inside story of leading local remodeling projects.

THE CITY MAGAZINE

The most comprehensive guide to living in the Memphis area. Featuring our annual “Who’s Who” profiles.

VOL XLII NO 5 | AUGUST 2017

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COLLEGE GUIDE

2017 COLLEGE GUIDE

Our in-depth guide to local colleges and universities.

7/18/17 4:29 PM

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Coming In September

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a special publication of Memphis magazine

V E S TA HOME SHOW GUIDE The official guide to the 2018 Vesta Home Show features renderings, floor plans, suppliers, and builder information.

sponsored by:

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For more information on advertising or our upcoming special sections, please contact Margie Neal at margie@memphismagazine.com

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CHAMPIONSHIP CALIBER EVENTS. The 73rd U.S. Women’s Open Championship isn’t the only major event in Birmingham this year. There’s also the Sloss Music & Arts Festival, the Sidewalk Film Festival, the Barber Vintage Festival and the Magic City Classic. We’re fortunate to have so many amazing events right here in Birmingham. And we’d be honored to have you, too. inbirmingham.com | # INB irmingham | 800 - 458 - 8085

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Memphis THE C IT Y MAGAZ INE

General Excellence Grand Award Winner City and Regional Magazine Association 2007, 2008, 2010, 2014

PUBLISHER/EDITOR kenneth neill EXECUTIVE EDITOR michael finger MANAGING EDITOR frank murtaugh SENIOR EDITOR shara clark ASSOCIATE EDITOR samuel x. cicci ARTS & LIFESTYLE EDITOR anne cunningham o’neill FOOD EDITOR pamela denney CONTRIBUTING EDITORS jackson baker,

john branston, michael donahue, christine arpe gang, alex greene, vance lauderdale, jill johnson piper EDITORIAL INTERN julia baker

CREATIVE DIRECTOR brian groppe PRODUCTION OPERATIONS DIRECTOR margie neal SENIOR ART DIRECTOR carrie beasley ADVERTISING ART DIRECTOR christopher myers GRAPHIC DESIGNERS jeremiah matthews,

bryan rollins PHOTOGRAPHY justin fox burks, michael donahue,

karen pulfer focht, larry kuzniewski ILLUSTRATION chris honeysuckle ellis

SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES joy bateman,

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IN THE BEGINNING | by kenneth neill

News You Can Use

Facebook and Google may make life miserable for publishers, but there will always be a place for quality local journalism.

he founder and CEO of Facebook found himself metaphorically drawn and quartered by members of two Congressional committees last month, after Mark Zuckerberg revealed to a nation of Facebook followers that some 87 million of us had had our data purloined by Cambridge Analytica, a political-consultancy firm. The questioning continued for hours, as connectivity with place. Our name says it Zuckerberg grew more and more uncom- all: Memphis the magazine is about Memphis fortable. While watching, I found myself the place. Not many products can speak for recalling some Facebook stats I’d come themselves as well as ours can. across in a recent Esquire article written Perhaps that’s why the city magazine segby Scott Galloway, an NYU Stern Business ment of our industry continues to thrive, in School professor who last fall published a spite of the turmoil that the monopolies of best-seller titled The Four. Facebook and Google are bringing to most Galloway’s book focuses upon what are other parts of the media universe. Every city now the four most valuable companies in the has its own distinctive character, charm, and world: Amazon, Apple, Facebook, and Goo- encumbrances, and the best city magazines gle. He explains how these four have built capture them all, in equal measure, with wit, separate digital monopolies that now domi- honesty, and elegance. nate world markets as no othI often think that Memphis er companies have ever done is as distinctive a place as any before, achieving stock valuain America. Good or bad, the tions that the Rockefellers and place we call home has no Vanderbilts of nineteenth-cenplace for indifference. Like us tury robber-baron days could or hate us, no one will ever conhardly have imagined. fuse Memphis with Columbus Together, The Four now or Des Moines or, perish the have market caps that add up thought, Nashville. to $2.8 trillion (equal to the Maybe that’s why, for more GDP of France), comprising than 40 years, our magazine has been blessed with an ex24 percent of the value of the S&P 500’s Top 50 stocks. traordinarily loyal readership, More than most, those of with local households passing October 1980 us in the publishing industry down their Memphis subscripknow firsthand what Galloway is talking tions the way they pass along Tiger basketball about. Each and every one of us competes tickets. We have been equally blessed with for digital dollars against the national duopo- a business community that recognizes the ly of Google and Facebook. The numbers in value of our grounded, multi-generational our particular industry are just as staggering readership, continuing to support our editoas the ones cited above. According to eMar- rial efforts both in these pages and online. We keter, Google and Facebook in 2017 claimed a are grateful for that advertising support; we whopping 63.1 percent of all digital-marketing could not survive without it. spending in the United States, leaving the Yes, digital monopolies are a major threat rest of us fighting over the crumbs they leave to local journalism as we know it. But there behind, basically one-third of the national will always be a place for a Memphis magazine, digital advertising pie. a place where readers can go, online and in With the Facebook/Google duopoly suck- print, for the kind of long-form journalism ing up such a large percentage of digital dol- that is increasingly difficult to find in placlars, publishers not named The New York Times es outside the country’s major markets. We or the Washington Post find it difficult to fund believe that we offer a unique and distinca strong digital presence by attracting suf- tive product for both our advertisers and our ficient numbers of paywall subscribers and readers, and intend to continue doing so for at least a few more generations. advertisers to make ends meet. On the other hand, city magazines like Thanks, one and all, for your continued ours, operating on vastly smaller budgets, support. Kenneth Neill have assets that Google and Facebook can never duplicate. First and foremost is our editor/publisher

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we saw you

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with michael donahue WHAT: Pandora National Launch WHERE: Wolfchase Galleria WHEN: March 15, 2018

ohn Threadgill, president of the Bartlett Area Chamber of Commerce, was on hand March 15th to cut a ribbon, which stretched across the entrance to the Pandora store in Wolfchase Galleria. The store recently was refaced with a bright gold facade to launch the new Shine line of jewelry. Shine is “a new concept line that Pandora has introduced,” said the chain’s director of marketing, Emily Williams, who organized the event. “It’s the first major line that they have introduced since their charm bracelet.” Shine is 18-karat gold-plated sterling silver. “It’s affordable, yet it has that brilliant brightness of 18-karat gold,” said Williams The Wolfchase Galleria store was “one of a handful across the nation to go in and reface the exterior and transform it.” And, she said, “We were just super-excited the Wolfchase Galleria Pandora was chosen because so few in the nation were.” Also on hand for the ribbon-cutting were Pandora executives ,including Wolfchase Galleria Pandora operations director Kelly Kreten, district manager Ray Guy, territory manager Kristine Jarquin, and store manager Zee Davis. The store owners are Blythe and Calvin Houghland Jr. Shine includes necklaces, charm bracelets, and earrings “with the focus on bees for Spring,” Williams said. The new line includes “a gorgeous bee pendant and an absolutely beautiful ring. It’s called a ‘honeycomb lace’ ring. It’s inspired by nature and designed to make you shine.” And, she said, Shine “will continue to come out with several new styles throughout the year.” Pandora carries all precious metals, including 14-karat gold, sterling silver, and rose gold.

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we saw you

WHAT: The Queen’s Ball WHERE: Holiday Inn UM WHEN: January 27, 2018

lizabeth Rhymes “Bebe” Chancellor was introduced as the queen of the 2018 Germantown Charity Horse Show at the Queen’s Ball. The event was held March 3rd at the Holiday Inn at the University of Memphis. Chancellor, daughter of Kelley and David Chancellor, is the granddaughter of longtime horse show sponsor and former president Jimmy Chancellor. She is a sophomore majoring in anthropology at Fordham University in New York City. Her escort was Xavier Michael McCormick. The queen will preside over this year’s Germantown Charity Horse Show, which will be held June 5th-9th. The show is celebrating its 70th anniversary this year. Eighteen princesses were presented at the event. Bill Dudley, who attended with his wife, Elaine, is this year’s Germantown Charity Horse Show president. Music was by Jeremy Shrader and the Quintessentials. The Exchange Club Family Center is this year’s horse show charity.

1 Xavier Michael McCormick and Queen Elizabeth Rhymes 2 William Murrah, Keith Prest, Lucy Chancellor, and Bentley Greenfield 3 Chandler Tutor and Claire John 4 Amy Beth Dudley 5 Saba Rohani, Kaitlyn Keppen, Mallory McDonald, and William Dorian 6 Brooks Gengenbach and Rebecca Wills 7 Sam Barnett and Nicole Abraham 8 Bill and Elaine Dudley 9 Kyle Frasure, Mary Ashley Bateman, Annika O’Neill, and Nick Montesi

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FINE PRINT

The Return of Willie Herenton? Let the parachute pundits chew on that prospect.

n early April I glanced at the television and saw Willie Herenton. I assumed he was being interviewed in connection with the 50th anniversary of the Martin Luther King assassination. Wrong. He was announcing that he plans to run for mayor in 2019. Which is nuts, of course. Herenton was mayor for 17 years — about two terms too long — before deciding to resign during his fifth term. Now he wants back in. You don’t run for the job you quit, at least not while people still remember who you are. I watched the mayor, now 78 years old, talk about himself and about Memphis, where he has lived all his life. I remembered covering him as a reporter. I remembered him winning that thrilling election in 1991 by 142 votes. I remembered he got more than 122,000 votes — nearly three times as many as

He sees Memphis, with all its faults, as a good place to live and work, a place that is more than its sports teams, food courts, fads, and historic anniversaries. the current mayor — and more votes than were gathered by all the candidates in the 2015 election put together. In fact, the guy Herenton beat in 1991, Dick Hackett, also got more than 122,000 votes. Those were the days when most people actually voted in local elections. Voting. What a concept. Still, it was crazy seeing Herenton talk about running again. Then again, was it any crazier than the failed Tiger basketball coach, Tubby Smith, walking away with a severance package

worth a few million dollars? Crazier than his successor, Penny Hardaway, being lauded for taking the same job for the bargain price of a couple million? Or the Grizzlies trying to lose games while still charging people good money for tickets? Any crazier than “experts” in the sports biz swallowing our NBA team’s disgraceful race to the bottom, and even promoting it as something suspenseful and honorable? Crazier than the lack of a credible, local daily media outlet that knows how to spell and connect dots and explain something without resorting to “5 Things We Know” click bait and leftovers from the Gannett national news network? Crazier than a city that pays an activist to come here and tell the world that Memphis has not made progress in race relations or justice since 1968? Or another local activist who castigates the current Loeb brothers in The New York Times for something the uncle they barely knew did 50 years ago? Or the parachute pundits from near and far who used the anniversary to promote their condescending ignorance? Or the friends and family of Dr. King who still believe the crackpot theo-

ry that James Earl Ray did not kill him? No, I don’t think Willie Herenton will be mayor of Memphis again, and actually, I’m not sure he’ll follow through on his promise to run. I don’t see him really caring one way or another about, say, the parking policy

on the Greensward or the fate of the Mid-South Coliseum. And he more or less squandered whatever was left of his political capital in 2010 when he ran for the Democratic nomination for Congress and got thumped nearly four to one by Steve Cohen. Herenton is a big complicated man with big ideas who has led a big Memphis life from the projects to segregated Booker T. Washington High School to LeMoyne-Owen to the school superintendent’s job to mayor. The chase, the challenge, the spotlight, and the confrontations with the media and council members were the things he’s always loved about public life. There was never any “a spokesman replied in an email” from him. He would call you up or call you out. No progress in Memphis since 1968? I would have loved to see the parachute pundits and the former Memphis Invaders tell that to the man who won that 1991 election and was mayor of the city for 17 years. He sees Memphis, with all its faults, as a good place to live and work, a place that is more than its sports teams, food courts, fads, and historic anniversaries. In his first three terms, at least, he represented a Memphis that was in many ways a better, more engaged, and more interesting place than it was in 1968. So it was kind of nice seeing Willie Herenton in the news again, even if he changes his mind about running. The election of 1991 was the most important event in Memphis history since April of 1968. Let the pundits and activists chew on that.

ILLUSTRATION BY CHRIS HONEYSUCKLE ELLIS

by john branston

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OU T A ND A BOU T |

MAY 2018

compiled by samuel x. cicci

Beale Street Music Festival

PHOTOGRAPH BY BRIANA WADE / MIM

Beale Street Music Festival

PHOTOGRAPH BY NATHAN ZUCKER / MIM

Memphis in May E V E N T S 5.4-6

Beale Street Music Festival

It might just be the busiest month of the year for downtown and the city. Memphis in May kicks off its annual celebration with one of 901’s most celebrated events, the Beale Street Music Festival. A good lineup is crucial for a successful festival, and Music Fest never disappoints. This year, look forward to another wide variety of first-time performers covering genres from rock PHOTOGRAPH BY JOSEPH MIKOS / MIM to rap, rounded out with a heavy dose of local ensembles for good measure. Twelve-time Grammy winner Jack White, the virtuoso guitarist formerly of the White Stripes and now a prolific solo artist, is a first-time headliner at the festival on the back of his new album release in March. Queens of the Stone Age also headline for the first time, bringing a blues-based hard rock catalogue after seeing their 2017 album, Villains, nominated for a Grammy. Erykah Badu’s soulful, bass-heavy R&B tracks bring another dimension to the headliners. Fans of 1990s music can take their pick of mainstays like Alanis Morissette or Third Eye Blind, while rap enthusiasts are in for a strong lineup featuring Tyler, the Creator, and D.R.A.M. Some of the main Memphis ensembles include Chinese Connection Dub Embassy, Ghost Town Blues Band, and Star & Micey. Tom Lee Park, Riverside Dr. memphisinmay.org

One Night in Prague

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY MIM

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numerous galleries, museums, performing centers, and community centers around Memphis. Local government members are invited to speak with ambassadors from the Czech Republic to create commerce and cultural exchanges. In addition, several key events serve to highlight positive contributions from the Czech Republic. One Night in Prague: A Sensory Celebration of the Czech Republic brings together cuisine and music at the Orpheum with a featured show from the Epoque Quartet’s combination of classical music with jazz, rock, and funk. In addition, three exhibits around town focus on different aspects of Czech history. The National Civil Rights Museum hosts “Witness to the Revolution,” a series of photographs that chronicle Americans who were present in Czechoslovakia in 1989 when communism fell in Europe. “Czech Scientists and their Inventions,” at the Benjamin L. Hooks Central Library, displays caricatures of famous Czech scientists alongside their most famous discoveries. Finally, the City of Prague Museum curates “Prague Floods Through Time,” an interactive virtual exhibit on Mud Island that traces the struggles of Czech citizens through history as the banks of the Vltava River overﬂowed. Various locations, memphisinmay.org

Let’s be real. We all know that Memphis has the best barbecue on the planet, so what better way to celebrate it than with the World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest? People come from around the world to see more than 230 teams from 25 countries compete for the title of best PHOTOGRAPH BYMIKE KERR / MIM barbecue. Tour Tom Lee Park and bask in the charcoal glow of brisket, ribs, and other sumptuous selections. Take a break from eating to watch cooking demonstrations by Big Green Egg, catch competitive sauce wrestling on Cattlemen’s main stage, and see who captures imaginations this year at the annual Ms. Piggy Idol contest.

International Salute World Championship to Czech Republic Barbecue Cooking 2018’s honored country for Memphis in May is the Czech Contest Republic. The festival brings Czech cultural events to

continued on page 23 World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest PHOTOGRAPH MIKE KERR / MIM

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Celebrate Mother’s Day with an ice-cream cake from Baskin-Robbins! Our special occasions cakes are sure to put a smile on your mom’s face. Visit one of our local locations and pick up a cake today! www.baskinrobbins.com.

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Great American River Run PHOTOGRAPHS BY MIKE KERR / MIM

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Great American River Run

Work off all that partying and barbecue with the Great American River Run. Nothing calms the mind like a jog by the Mississippi, and Memphis in May has competitors covered with two ﬁtness options for athletes and newcomers alike. A half-marathon course leads runners along the banks of the river, while those looking for a more leisurely event can tackle the 5K through downtown Memphis. And, be sure not to miss out on the post-race party.

901Fest PHOTOGRAPH BY ROCKMEMPHISLIVE

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901Fest

As the merry month of May comes to a close, kick off the start of summer with everything Memphis at 901Fest. Big local names take the stage, with standout performers including Southern Avenue, Marco Pavé, Mighty Souls Brass Band, and 8Ball & MJG treating festival-goers to some of the best music Memphis has to offer. Culinary staples like Central BBQ, Mempops, and Pronto Pup Co. will leave attendees salivating, while many local craftsmen host their artwork and wares. Make sure to end the Memphis in May festivities right by honoring some of the ﬁnest cultural offerings created here at home. M A Y 2 0 1 8 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 23

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THE MAVERICK Al Bell reﬂects on Stax Records and six decades in the music industry.

^6 by alex greene ^6

“Back then,” he recalls, “in an all-black school, the teachers knew what we would be facing when we walked out of those classrooms and into the streets. So they inadvertently taught us black history. What I realized was, when I looked at various ethnic groups in this country, that each one of them built their own economic base. And it was through their economic base that they mainstreamed themselves. I thought at that time, ‘Well okay, we have all these challenges here as African Americans, but we’re doing what other ethnic groups do.’” Paradoxically, segregation led to solidarity within the black community, who created their own businesses parallel to white society. “It was segregated, so we had to build our own banks, our own insurance companies, our own restaurants, because we couldn’t go to the white-owned restaurants, banks, and insurance companies. So we were building our economic base,” he recalls. “I saw that changing when integration came into play. Because then we were leaving our institutions and trying to fit in to the white institutions. As a result of that, our economic base started declining. And it got to the point where, instead of being entrepreneurs and producers, we became em-

ployees and consumers.” As Bell saw it, the economic development of his community would lead naturally to political change more profound than any act of Congress. “As I got older I realized, well, you don’t have any of these other ethnic groups talking about civil rights. They didn’t have to because they had their own economic base and they were getting their politicians elected. They were able to support politicians so the things that they wanted to see addressed were addressed because those politicians, being pragmatic, had to address it in order to get that vote.” After that realization, Bell’s approach to civil rights was to make his business as big as it could be. This was largely in harmony with Dr. Martin Luther King Jr., with whom Bell worked and marched. One protest in particular made a strong impression on Bell. “We were marching down the streets,” he says, “and a man was calling me all kinda names. Well, that didn’t bother me. But then, as we were marching, he spit on me. And lord have mercy, outta my pocket went that switchblade knife. I broke rank. I violated a cardinal rule.” No blood was drawn, but King spoke with

Al Bell in his ofﬁce in the mid-1960s, in the original Stax building on McLemore.

PHOTOGRAPHY FROM THE STAX COLLECTION, API PHOTOGRAPHERS INC., MEMPHIS

hough not a Memphis native, Al Bell’s story is so entwined with Stax Records that he might as well be. Born Alvertis Isbell in Brinkley, Arkansas, he first gained notoriety as a DJ. Joining Stax in 1965, he was instrumental in reinventing and diversifying the label after its break with Atlantic Records in 1968, when the major label laid claim to all the master recordings produced by Stax up to that time. In building Stax as a self-contained business, Bell drew on lessons he had garnered in high school during the days before integration.

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Bell later that evening. “We met that night and he said, ‘You pulled a knife and went after a gentleman because he was interfering with the march.’” But then King moved on to a larger point. “Dr. King told me, he said, ‘You know, Albert, I know what you’re about. You have a lot of Marcus Garvey* in you.’ Well, I didn’t know who Marcus Garvey was. But he said, ‘You’re about economics and all of that, and you’re out there talking to these young people about that. But I want to tell you something.

“Racism was overt during the period of segregation. You could see it. Now you can’t see it, because it’s not in your face. But it’s in your life.”

You Know She’s Worth it!

a l bel l

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PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY STAX MUSEUM OF AMERICAN SOUL MUSIC

10-101-1945

Al Bell at his Little Rock recording studio in 2007.

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What you are about, you can do, but that has to take place after I’ve done what I’ve done.’ His first step was the passive resistance movement, in order to position us where we could once again start building economically in this country.” If King was heavily invested in changing the legal landscape, he also saw how legislative victories could sour. “We had something that looked like the beginning of civil rights,” recalls Bell, “but written into the laws were amendments that had segregation in them. Racism was overt during the period of segregation. You could see it. Now you can’t see it, because it’s not in your face. But it’s in your life. You can’t move without it and you don’t know why. Well, why couldn’t I do this? Or what was wrong with my credit rating? Or,

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what was wrong with this or that? What was the problem? Well, it’s in the laws now.” According to Bell, that marked a change in King’s approach. “He became concerned because he realized that all he had done did not get us in a position where we were growing economically, and he started speaking out about that,” says Bell. “He spoke about the war in Vietnam, then he started talking about our economic downfall at that time, and even made the statement that ‘I’m going to Washington to get our check.’ And that, of course, along with that Poor People’s Campaign that he was putting together, which evolved into the Poor Peoples’ march on Washington, was what gave rise to his assassination. They

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had to stop him. He had too many people following him. And poor people. There were more whites signing up for that than there were blacks. Well, they couldn’t allow that to happen.” Racial politics were radically altered after April 4, 1968, but for Bell, that didn’t change the underlying logic of developing successful black businesses. “When Dr. King was killed, I said, ‘Oh, I got to keep on stepping,’” says Bell. “And I increased my efforts. In fact, I got with Rev. Jesse Jackson and underwrote People United to Save Humanity [Operation PUSH]. And I put together the first black expo in Chicago, where we could bring in African Americans from all over this country. Come here and let America see what you’re doing, let these major corporations see what you’re doing. And they realized, oh wait a minute, there’s some great ideas, we can make money with these black folks over here. So let’s get involved. I also helped to underwrite the Black Caucus, so they could have some power and have a voice in Washington.” Most importantly, Bell masterminded the rebirth of Stax. “I recognized the value of the Stax that Jim Stewart had created prior to 1968. I mean,

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY AL BELL PRESENTS

In 2014, Al Bell made a return visit to Memphis and visited the Stax Museum of American Soul Music, built on the site of the former recording studio.

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there was nothing like that. That’s what brought me here. There was nothing like that. That was masterful. That was artistry that cannot be duplicated, and it hurt me deep inside to see what had been done to us by Atlantic at that time. He explains what made Stax special: “See, Stax at that point in time was a production company. It produced music, and what happens in this industry is, you produce the music, then you go to the larger companies and they market and distribute it. And that’s what Atlantic was doing and why Atlantic could do what they did to Stax. Well, we made up our minds that we were going to become an independent, free-standing record com-

“I mean, America is 20 trillion dollars in debt. Come on! We’ve got a lot of work to do. So we need to come together.”

a l bel l pany. With Atlantic distributing our product, we were just a production company, making 25 or 30 cents per record sold. We needed to get into album production. Because that went from 25 or 30 cents per record sold to $2.40! We could build from there.” Memphis Magazine’s THE 2018 WATERFRONT HOMES1007 Bream Road And build they did, with Stax growing to a multimillion-dollar company, until strained & LOTS OF relations with their distributor, Columbia ARKANSAS Records, precipitated bankruptcy in 1975. REAL ESTATE Still, Bell went on to become president of Motown Records Group in the 1980s. Now back in Memphis, working in the independent music scene, Bell says the changes he’s witnessed since that time have left him 30 MINUTES FROM 747 Bream Road hopeful. DOWNTOWN MEMPHIS “After 60 years in the music industry, this is the most opportune time ever. Because the Big Three major music corporations have E L maxed out. They were not about creating. A S ING They were about acquiring. [Today] there’s D N PE nothing to acquire. And once we get busy taking what we have and popularizing that, Circle 200 Pecan Circle 11569 HORSESHOE CIRCLE 11569 Horseshoe200 11983 HORSESHOE CIRCLE PECAN CIRCLE and beginning to create a demand, then it 4,000 sq. ft. custom home, 370’ 1007 Bream Road 5800 sq ft 5BR 5 BA lakefront — 2 BR, 2 BA cottage near lake, lake frontage, on 4.7 acres, 5 custom pier — all the bells private community, access to 2 puts us in a position where we’re not only bedrooms, ﬁreplace & more. and whistles piers and covered boat slip. making a contribution but we help save the $880,500 $95,000 $959,000 big three major companies.” He recognizes the struggle ahead of him. 1527 BREAM ROAD “I mean, America is 20 trillion dollars in debt,” Currently being operated as a Bed he says. “Come on! We’ve got a lot of work to & Breakfast, the Snowden House do. So we need to come together. Specifically has 5BR 6BA on 12 acres of lake frontage prime for development. black people. We are closer together than 747 Bream Road 190$2,859,000 Pecan Circle or the Home and 747 BREAM ROAD any other ethnic group in this country. We 4 acres $1,325,000. 111’ lakefront lot priced know each other too well, and we really know under market value. $177,600 how to work with each other, so if we begin to work together, we can turn this country MORE PROPERTIES FOR SALE. Contact: Joey Burch 501-454-1782 or Pat Burch 901-490-4841 around quicker than you can imagine.”

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30 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • M A Y 2 0 1 8 200 Pecan Circle 11569 The Lake Place

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY BG

STAYCATION DESTINATION

The Airbnb Revolution Comes to Memphis. by jill johnson piper

he word “staycation” — a change of scenery without the misery of travel — has only recently entered our vocabularies.

So in this, our second annual “Staycation” issue, we came up

with the notion of building a fascinating week of non-travel by simply wandering through the local Airbnb listings, exploring just what kind of staycation opportunities exist right here in Memphis. The range of overnight selections, we quickly discovered, is staggering. Founded just 10 years ago, Airbnb is now a $2.6 billion company, with over four million listings in 65,000 cities in 191 countries. Nearly 400 of those listings are right here in Memphis, making Airbnb a major player in the hospitality landscape. With the introduction of the Room Occupancy Tax and Tourism Improvement District Assessment last June, Airbnb generated $300,000 in tax revenue for our city in the second half of last year, with guest arrivals up almost 80 percent over the same period in 2016.

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Memphis is its own art gallery. Locals and tourists can scour the city for works like The Sound of Memphis mural (right) by Damon Lamar Reed and Pugs Atomz on South Main, across from Aldo’s Pizza. Also on Main, visitors can cozy up to a sculpture by Andrea Holmes Lugar of bluesman Little Milton at the Blues Hall of Fame.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY BG

Not surprisingly, local prices are all over the map, ranging from as little as $50 a night for a shared space in a local home to just under $1,000 for the sprawling former home of Dr. George Nichopoulos, Elvis’ personal physician. And while there are eccentricities such as the “clothing optional” property near Wolfchase or a tent behind the downtown post office, the majority of Airbnb options are mainstream places designed to make visitors more than just comfortable; they’re deliberately intended to be your home away from home. So we conducted a modest experiment: What would a week of staycation be like if you picked your overnight destinations from local Airbnb listings? Our criteria were few. We picked at least one place from each of Airbnb’s three basic cat-

egories: a shared home listing (these account for 42 percent of Memphis listings); a separate apartment (guest houses, garage apartments, and such); and, of course, an entire house

At the Airbnbs, we found snacks, drinks, coffee, guest books with positive messages, and a variety of art and design. And Elvis has clearly not left the building in many of these places! you could have to yourself. Our fictitious staycationers were a couple, and we chose one property each for a modest budget, a mid-range budget, and a weekend splurge. If you’re not already an Airbnb user, getting to know the company’s app (airbnb. com) is time well-spent. We prefer the laptop approach, so

we can see big photos of each listing. “Read. The. Entire. Description,” says Patrick McCabe, an Airbnb “Superhost” in Central Gardens. Superhost is an Airbnb designation that indicates frequent tenancy and superior reviews. As McCabe suggests, finding the place you really want can be a heck of a reading assignment. Hosts make rules about everything from washing-machine use to smoking to controlling television hours. And prepare yourself for a mild case of sticker shock, not unlike what happens when you make a hotel booking. That room that looks like it’s just $80 a night will actually ring up for $130 once Airbnb adds a cleaning fee, service fee, and city occupancy tax. Prices for each accommodation will vary, and you can expect them to go up during festivals, holidays and other peak times.

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PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY MEMPHIS CVB / CRAIG THOMPSON

Knowing how to use the filters on the Airbnb home page is essential. Here you can identify the type of situation you want, the amenities you require (pool? Wifi? gated?), and what you want to pay. Feel free to message the host to ask a specific question (“Is this kitchen peanut-free?”) before you book. When you do enter your dates and click on “request to book,” you will see the total cost. It’s hard to book accidentally while browsing, because you won’t enter credit card information until several screens later. We know what you’re thinking: Wouldn’t it be great to book an Airbnb in a different part of town and have a huge party there? Get that idea right out of your head. Some hosts decline locals for that very reason. And nearly all have a “no party” policy spelled out in the “Rules” section of the listing.

Lest we make them sound like a lot of rule-driven party poopers, however, the half-dozen Superhosts we consulted seemed motivated by hospitality and a genuine desire to give their guests a quality experience, as well as an interest in making a little folding money. Although some of the higher-end properties can generate upwards of $30,000 a year, the average income for hosts is about $6,000 to $8,000 a year. At all of the Airbnbs we visited, we found snacks, drinks, coffee, guest books filled with positive messages, and a wide variety of art and design, although Elvis has clearly not left the building in many of these places! Central Gardens is the heart of Airbnb Memphis; one might think folks in the city’s central residential quarter saw the company coming a century ago. With its many carriage houses,

garage apartments, studios, in-law wings, and backhouses, Midtown is a staycationer’s playground. Between the 1880s and the 1930s, Midtown exploded with bungalows, Queen Annes, and four-squares to form the city’s historic corridor. “Carriage house” was a fancier way of saying “stable,” reminds historian Perre Magness. Up through the 1910s, horses and cows would have been stabled in these outbuildings. With the arrival of the automobile in the 1920s, these spaces became garages, and spaces above them became desirable guest accommodations. Today, the owner is often on-site to field questions or provide directions, if asked. Wherever you go in Memphis, however, an Airbnb is probably not very far away. Here’s our pick of a few staycation gems that might appeal to you and your visiting friends.

A Memphis staycation is a terriﬁc way to further explore the city's biking and hiking possibilities, from the Greenline to the Greenway and beyond, including the breathtaking Big River Crossing. That mile-long attraction is the country's longest active rail/bicycle/pedestrian bridge and gives an unforgettable view of the Mississippi River.

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Private Cottage in Midtown TYPE OF LISTING: Guest house AREA: Central Gardens IDEAL FOR: Seeing architectural delights and having fun in Cooper-Young PRICE PER NIGHT: About $73 before fees

host: Patrick McCabe

ot far from Central Avenue, Patrick McCabe’s ”Private Cottage in Midtown“ is a five-minute walk from just about everything Memphis’ first modern suburb has to offer. A little west of Cooper, the bedroom/ living room/kitchenette behind McCabe’s house is just right for a couple in search of an urban adventure. It’s comfortably furnished, private, and convenient to destinations east and west. It’s an easy Lyft to downtown, but on a fair weekend, Central Gardens itself is an attraction. All the major architectural styles of the late-nineteenth and early-twentieth century are represented. We recommend a morning walking tour; check out centralgardens.org for more information. There are great places nearby to get coffee (Otherlands) and cupcakes (Muddy’s) and no end of historic homes, most dating from the first quarter of the twentieth century. Check out churches like Grace-St. Luke’s Episcopal and Immaculate Conception, Memphis’ Catholic cathedral. And don’t forget to stroll along Belvedere Avenue,

right out the front door of the cathedral, where the city’s cotton merchants built exceptional mansions in the 1920s. Also not far from McCabe’s place is Cooper-Young. This residential district’s homes are more modest than those of Central Gardens, but equally historic and well worth the walk. The restaurant and retail heart of Cooper-Young features all kinds of cuisine, a distinctive Irish pub (Celtic Crossing), a drum shop, a cat sanctuary, and Burke’s Books, Memphis’ oldest bookstore established in 1875. When Patrick McCabe moved to Memphis in 2013 for a second career (after his ﬁrst one in the U.S. Army), he purchased the 1922 property for its historic charm and income potential. “Hosting keeps your hand in the game,” he says, “and it’s truly fun and interesting meeting people from all over the U.S. and from around the world.”

Patrick McCabe’s guest house has a bedroom, living room, and kitchenette — furnished, private, and convenient to destinations east and west. 36 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • M A Y 2 0 1 8

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY LARRY KUZNIEWSKI

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That ’70s Room TYPE OF LISTING: Private room in owner-occupied home, with shared bath AREA: Just east of Memphis International Airport IDEAL FOR: Youngsters, gamers, animal lovers PRICE PER NIGHT: About $27 before fees

host: Robert Bacon

ur nominee in the “most faithful to its theme” category is ”That ’70s Room,“ a little east of Memphis International Airport. Spinning on the name of a popular period comedy (That ’70s Show ran eight seasons in the early 2000s), it offers a colorful explosion of nostalgia for the era just before the average Airbnb guest, age 30 to 35, was born. A visitor half expects the Bee Gees to burst out of the bathroom in a cloud of hairspray. A private room in a tidy, newer home, this room has been reviewed more than 200 times, usually favorably. The host, Robert Bacon, answers most questions within the hour. In April, the nightly rate was $32, so with taxes and fees, the total cost of booking was $57. Robert and his sister, Melissa Rittenhouse, painted the walls with chalk paint to enhance the psychedelic color scheme. The walls have been turned into the siblings’ unofﬁcial guest book, and guests write messages like “Go Vegan” or “Groovy Place.” “One time we heard these older

people in there just laughing, going wild drawing on the walls,” Bacon explains. “These adults are like kids in a candy store when you give them a stick of chalk.” Guests are free to use the kitchen, the front porch, and the shared living room, or they can retreat to the beanbag chair in the guest room, or to the memory-foam queen bed piled with pillows for some downtime. The bathroom, decorated with Robert’s collection of vintage fedoras, can also be a shared situation if the other guest room is booked. And if Sparta, the unofﬁcial greeting cat, isn’t your cup of tea, maybe you’ll have more in common with Gizmo, the pit bull. Because it’s the nearest Airbnb to the airport, ”That ’70s Room“ gets a lot of ﬁrst-time Airbnb users. For a staycationer, we’d recommend this as an entry-level experience to see if house-sharing is for you. And really, how can you call yourself a Memphian if you haven’t seen Graceland, just 10 minutes away from here?

That ’70s Room gets you a colorful — really colorful — private pad that’s only 10 minutes from that grooviest of destinations: Graceland.

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The Garden View TYPE OF LISTING: Private room in owner-occupied home AREA: East Memphis IDEAL FOR: Fugitives from Downtown festivals PRICE PER NIGHT: About $47 before fees with a two-night minimum

superhosts: Ed and Juliet Jones

S Airbnbs run by senior hosts earn five-star reviews at a consistently higher level than others.

o that hip apartment in the heart of downtown isn’t so much fun on Friday nights when sports fans, limousines full of prom-goers, and festival detours are blocking your parking garage? What you need is to chill out in the suburbs. And at $140 for two nights, ”The Garden View” delivers peace and quiet with an international ﬂavor. Superhost Juliet Jones and her husband, Ed, live on a quiet cove, a stone’s throw from shopping, restaurants, and theaters. Recent guests include a couple married 56 years, snowbirds going back home to Canada, and three graduate students from Iowa attending a conference at The Peabody. ”The Garden View“ has outstanding staycation potential. Want to practice your college French or Spanish? Juliet is ﬂuent in both. Save the planet? Place

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your tea bag in the compost bin, please. Hang out in your slippers? Juliet and Ed provide them, since they follow the Japanese and Scandinavian custom of

removing shoes at the door. A private bathroom and a Continental breakfast should be enough to overcome any reservations about occupying a shared space. And if you still need breathing room, there’s the garden. Planted in the style of a European parterre garden, each section is devoted to species that display sequentially. The textural spiral garden features several varieties of sedum. A Japanese paper bush nestles up to the deck. Behind massive azaleas, guests can draw up a chair and not be seen from the house or other yards. Juliet and Ed belong to the fastestgrowing segment of Airbnb hosts: retirees. Airbnbs run by senior hosts earn ﬁve-star reviews at a consistently higher level than others. “I think people relate to us,” Juliet says. “We put our picture in our listing and it makes us approachable.” Consider this review from March: “This is a gem! Juliet and Ed were gracious hosts and very attentive. In our opinion the bed was just right, a very good night's sleep. Wake up to French press gourmet coffee, artisan toast of your choice, honey and homemade jam, and cardinals to greet you from the kitchen windows. [There are] fresh ﬂowers in the room and throughout this well-appointed home.”

PHOTOGRAPHS BY LARRY KUZNIEWSKI

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The Hen House TYPE OF LISTING: Guest house AREA: Near the Annesdale-Snowden Historic District IDEAL FOR: Swimmers, chicken lovers, and downtown explorers PRICE PER NIGHT: About $70 before fees

coop a few steps away from the guest house, but at least there’s no rooster to disturb your sleep at 5 a.m. The hens are beautiful to behold in their many shades of red, and some of them perform antics at feeding time (which made us think twice about ordering the chicken parm last night). Don’t forget your swimsuit; this house has an enormous pool, but since it’s not fenced or watched by a lifeguard, we don’t recommend The Hen House for a staycation with small children. The

Ten heirloom hens lay farmfresh eggs in a coop a few steps away from the guest house, but at least there’s no rooster to disturb your sleep at 5 a.m.

hosts: Carolyn and Dino Grisanti

arolyn and Dino Grisanti are busy teachers and parents, but there’s always room for one more in ”The Hen House,“ their detached one-bedroom listing. Their Airbnb is on the edge of the Annesdale-Snowden Historic District, a few doors east of Ashlar Hall. Here we encountered our favorite piece of Memphis-themed art: a souvenir photo dated 1956 from the “Memphis Zoological Garden,” featuring young father Johnny Cash; on his lap sits an alert baby girl in a frothy dress, Rosanne Cash, born in 1955. Carolyn, also a volunteer at the zoo, found a photo and had it enlarged for the guest house. ”The Hen House“ was built in the 1980s, probably on the site of the original stable. “Horseshoes have been found in the ground right around it,” Carolyn says. The place takes its name from the actual hen house in the backyard. Ten heirloom hens lay farm-fresh eggs in a

kitchen is above average, and gated parking with a remote opener is a plus. Were we to book this property, we would do this: Pick a hot Friday night and have a long swim before striking out for South Main, just a few minutes away by car. There, we’d order a Ms. Polly’s Greek Lover pizza at The Arcade, open since 1919, and then stroll among the galleries and shops on Trolley Night, held

the last Friday of every month. The next morning would be about bicycling. You can bring your own, or check out Bike Share at 11 W. Huling a few miles away, scheduled to have bikes on the ground this month. Riding the Big River Crossing across the Harahan Bridge is another Memphis Must as far as we’re concerned, just like Graceland. Or you can walk the long span; the access is on Channel 3 Drive. When the banker J.S. White built the Grisanti’s turreted stone house in 1902, he had little idea that a hundred years hence it would become an ersatz hotel. “The best part is getting to be a tour guide in your own city,” explains Carolyn. “We get to recommend our favorite restaurants, breweries, and local shops, as well as must-see-and-do things in Memphis.”

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Relax near Overton Square/Park TYPE OF LISTING: Garage apartment AREA: East End — Overton Square and Overton Park IDEAL FOR: Bikers, theater lovers, foodies, couples PRICE PER NIGHT: About $99 before fees

But it’s too close to the action to unplug; you can do that at home. Being in the East End neighborhood (which was the east end of the city when the parkways were built in 1899) puts one within walking distance of Studio on the Square, Playhouse on the Square, Ballet Memphis, and the

This relaxing apartment is beautifully furnished with all the modern amenities, and a guest is tempted to spend his whole stay staring out of the window of this spacious aerie. But it's too close to the action to unplug; you can do that at home.

hosts: Graham and Leanna Morris

hen we meet Leanna Morris, she and her husband Graham are debating the best strategy to hoist a new mattress up the stairs to the Airbnb above their garage. Replacing a lumpy queen bed must be what makes her a Superhost. Behind a brick wall and up one ﬂight of enclosed hardwood stairs, there is nothing about this apartment near Overton Square — Midtown’s premier entertainment district — to suggest that cars and bicycles reside below. With windows on three sides, this Zen blend has garden views and a private entrance. Beautifully furnished with all the modern amenities, a guest is tempted to spend his whole stay staring out the window of this spacious aerie.

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Hattiloo Theatre. This makes for an ideal theater weekend, with a play, a movie, and a meal. If you choose to use The Roo, a 17-passenger bus with a kangaroo theme, you can pay $5 on weekend nights to shuttle between Overton Square and Cooper-Young. (See RIDETHEROO.COM for details.) Daytime is for Overton Park, a five-minute walk in the other direction from Leanna’s place. In addition to other nearby attractions like Memphis Brooks Museum of Art, the Levitt Shell, and the zoo, there’s a farmers market every Thursday at the East Pavillion, yoga on Thursdays at the Brooks, and nature hikes through the 126-acre Old Forest periodically (see OVERTONPARK.ORG). But if your energy is low and you want to cocoon in the Morris’ sun-filled space, you wouldn’t be the first. “I had this one lady recently, who was the stressed-out foster mother of four,” says Leanna. “She never left the apartment.”

PHOTOGRAPHS BY LARRY KUZNIEWSKI

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Sojourn of Harbor Town TYPE OF LISTING: Entire place to yourself AREA: Mud Island IDEAL FOR: A wedding anniversary or a BFF-y reunion PRICE PER NIGHT: About $175 before fees

renters: Sara Studdard (left) and Laura Andrews

Sojourn has ample parking, spotless new decor, the makings for coffee anytime, and an ideal picnic spot under the nearby weeping willow.

listing that combines “island living” with proximity to downtown is called ”Sojourn of Harbor Town,“ a two-bedroom house on a quiet cul de sac on Mud Island. Many visitors to the island, including Sojourn’s owner, see the restaurants and the river and simply head back east over the A.W. Willis Bridge, without exploring the residential neighborhoods to the north. “I had never made it past Paulette’s, honestly,” until shopping for an investment property downtown, says Ailene Morisy, owner of Sojourn. She and her husband, Lee, bought Sojourn last year the same day she saw the listing online. “We felt like we had discovered a little gem inside the city. This neighborhood is like its own little resort community.” An Elvis bobblehead on the mantel sets the mood of Sojourn: Don’t take yourself so seriously. A stack of board games and puzzles promotes playtime.

The one-story house features two queen-size bedrooms with private en suite baths. Contemporary art and a glass dining table add to the spacious, vacation feel of the house. If you checked “entire place to yourself” at the start of the Airbnb search, this one ticks all the boxes: ample parking, spotless new decor, and the makings for coffee no matter what time you check in. And an ideal picnic spot under the nearby weeping willow once you have acquired a few provisions. Recent renovations to Miss Cordelia’s Grocery have brought expanded choices in wines, craft beers, prepared meals, flowers, and artisan soaps. If you book during the week, Wednesday is food truck night with live music on the north side of the store. Like a lot of “new urban” communities (Seaside, Florida, comes to mind), Mud Island is best enjoyed by bicycle. From Sojourn, it’s about a five-minute ride to a water view. Heading north, Island Place terminates at the Wolf River Trailhead, a 1.3-mile section of pedestrian and bike path added to the Wolf River Greenway last year. Still on bicycle, cut in anywhere on River Park, which runs the length of the island on the river side, for broad views of the bridges, the sandbars on the Arkansas side, the meanders to the north, and the skyline to the south. We like poking about the east side of the island, particularly the gravel path that rims the Harbor Town neighborhood beginning at Music Park. From Harbor Isle Circle South, look south to the Pyramid, now home to Bass Pro Shops. Below is the marina where river-going boats are docked and the Coast Guard station is on the far side. A gravel path winds by the Wolf River Lagoon, through woodlands and wetlands until the bank becomes too brushy for foot traffic. Harbor Town proper is eminently walkable, and peering into the “secret courtyards”

from the sidewalk is not considered nosy in this context. By car, it’s interesting to check out the north end of the peninsula via North Second Street, where you will find the Jacob Burkle Estate, also known as Slave Haven. In 1997, it opened at 826 N. Second as a museum about the underground railroad. Antebellum houses weren’t all Greek Revival mansions with Corinthian columns, as Hollywood would have us believe; most were modest homes like this, the one-story home of a German immigrant, stockyard owner, and reputed abolitionist. See slavehavenmemphis.com. High above the dog-walkers, cyclists, and runners on Island Drive, civilized staycationers can toast the end of the day at The Terrace, the open-air bar on the fourth floor of the River Inn. They offer small plates and custom cocktails like a “Mississippi Sunset” with vodka, triple sec and strawberry liqueur. Perhaps your companion would enjoy a “Long Kiss Goodnight” (also an adult beverage). A couple of tried-and-true restaurants have a Harbor Town address, but more adventurous dining will require a five-minute drive to Downtown proper. See the restaurant guide on pages 86-95 of this issue. Which brings us full circle to the conundrum of staycation: Will I feel as restored as if I had gone somewhere? The answers are in the guest books. Remember the stressed-out mom who craved a little time for herself? She wrote: “I am a local foster mom who has a 19-year-old, 8-year-old, 5-year-old, and 8-month-old at home. I came here exhausted and in need of a break. This comfortable and quiet apartment ... had everything I needed to relax. The Keurig [coffee maker] was well-appreciated, as well as the filtered water. “As I leave, I am ready to go face the many challenges that await me. Thanks, Katie.”

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from

Greg Campbell and Erick New Photograph by Sarah Bell

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HOW GARDEN DISTRICT’S GROWERS DELIVER REMARKABLE BEAUTY FROM ALL AROUND THE WORLD. by a n n e cu n n ingh a m o ’ n eill

here’s an old saying that you shouldn’t judge a book by its cover. But in this particular case, I might make an exception. Trust me, you can, too. Just published in April, Florists to the Field

is a gorgeous volume, both inside and

out. Its publishers, Christian Owen and Greg Baudoin, have really hit the mark in the first offering of their new publishing company, Southerly. Owen, a former editor at StyleBlueprint and Mid-South Living magazine, and Baudoin, owner of Greg Baudoin Interior Design, have produced a splendid book about two of Memphis’ favorite and most talented florists, Greg Campbell and Erick New, the co-owners of Garden District, located on Sanderlin.

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Heaton Pecans in Mississippi Photograph by Julie Wage Ross

As many of their clients know, Campbell and New had worked together for years with the late, widely admired John Hoover in his little florist shop on Union. This book is clearly a labor of love, the result of a year-long journey that takes us behind the scenes as they visit the dedicated and remarkably talented commercial growers who are among Campbell and New’s primary sources for Garden District’s always bountiful supply of fresh f lowers. Garden and design gurus have written numerous books on home garden design, flower arranging, and decorating with flowers. Making Florists to the Field so very special are the in-depth profiles of 12 individuals and their families which Owen and Baudoin provide. This delightful

dozen all work on what might be called “flower farms,” both near and far, from right here in the Deep South, all across the Midwest, out on the West Coast, and even across the Atlantic in The Netherlands. In fact, the close personal relationships the owners of Garden District have developed with these growers (most of whom have clearly become good friends) come across loud and clear in Florists to the Field. Greg Campbell even went so far as spending a weeks’ vacation with Kenyon Growers in Forest Grove, Oregon, to work in the fields and see the growing process first hand. We can thank Sarah Bell of Sélavie Photography for her excellent work in capturing the ambience of so many of these

Greg Campbell and Erick New with Don and Elizabeth Scott

magnificent flower farms. As you read the book, you’ll discover that each of these 12 operations is both interesting and unique. For example, you’ll read about how, in Soldiers Grove, Wisconsin, the owners transformed a former dairy farm into Star Valley Flowers, with rows and rows of glorious f lowers. Two chapters of particular local interest are: The Farmstead on Woodson Ridge, where two acres of flowers are grown near Oxford, Mississippi (where the Garden District team has created events for the owners), and Wilson Gardens in Wilson, Arkansas, where a “rural renaissance” has been created by Gaylon Lawrence Jr. and the Lawrence Group. From the dahlias featured on the cover to the delphiniums pictured inside, the book’s photographs are simply gorgeous. The colorful “people” shots of Campbell and New working on special events at the various farms and mingling with the owners are especially fun. In addition to Sarah Bell of Selavie Photography, Florists to the Field benefits from the excellent photographic contributions of Julie Wage Ross and Brandall Atkinson. Co-publisher Christian Owen wrote all the colorful stories on the growers, and these are beautifully crafted. And as if he doesn’t have enough to do, Baudoin was the stylist, charged with responsibility for

“the look” of the book. Everyone involved in the project is proud of the endorsements they have received, including kudos from Jeff Leatham, artistic director of the George V Hotel, the Four Seasons property in Paris, who points out that “Garden District brings flawless nature into your home and event.” High praise indeed! Many of us first heard the news about the upcoming publication of Florists to the Field at an elegant party at Acre Restaurant, hosted last fall by Don and Elizabeth Scott, longtime friends of Garden District. The breathtaking f lowers at the event (by Garden District, of course) were hung from the ceiling to evoke “upsidedown meadows.” Now the book is out and available. There have already been several book signings of Florists to the Field in April, but there will be another at Novel in Laurelwood on May 12th, and another at Memphis Botanic Garden later in the month. Needless to say, the book can make a perfect Mother’s Day gift, since as the publishers had hoped, Florists to the Field is “as pretty as the f lowers pictured inside.” Owen and Baudoin point out that there are more books in the Southerly Publishing pipeline: one on design, which is no surprise considering Baudoin’s background, and another on decorative-arts collecting. I for one cannot wait!

Christian Owen and Greg Baudoin

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WILSON GARDENS

W ILSON, ARK A NSAS PHOTOGRAPHS BY JULIE WAGE ROSS

he Wilson family has owned thousands of acres of Arkansas farmland since the 1840s. As their cotton empire expanded, the town of Wilson also developed, with buildings constructed in a Tudor Revival style. In recent years, the community has become a center for the arts, especially after the property was purchased by new owners in 2010. “Thanks to a new era ushered in with The Lawrence Group,” write the authors of Florists to the Field, “by renovating and resurrecting historic sites, the city that fell victim to progress has reclaimed its destiny as a jewel in America’s Southern crown.” Attractions include the Delta School, considered a national model of excellence, and the Wilson Cafe, “once again abuzz with the sounds of clinking cutlery.” A true gem of the property, however, is Wilson Gardens, some 200 acres devoted to flowers, vegetables, fruit trees, grains, and even cows, goats, and chickens. It’s much more than a farm, however. The Grange at Wilson Gardens is a learning lab that also serves as a special-events center, such as the dinner hosted in the middle of a cotton field (shown here). The event represented “the town’s history woven into a lively tapestry of cotton branches, vegetables, and herbs — an evening of Wilson’s past and a thread to its present: rustic, elegant, and intimate.”

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NICO WIGCHERT DELPHINIUM FARM THE NETHERLANDS PHOTOGRAPHS BY SARAH BELL

second-generation grower, Nico Wigchert joined his father in the family farming business more than a quarter-century ago. At the time, the father-son duo was producing daffodils, tulips, and gladiolas. That changed in 1992, when Nico saw a flower at an exhibition – the Princess Caroline delphinium – that took his breath away; its fine texture and peachy-pink complexion with traces of rouge set it apart from other garden plants. Thus began Nico’s quest to create and recreate unparalleled varieties of this regal flower. Today these perennial plants receive royal treatment at the Wigchert farm from Nico and his wife, Maria, who grew up in a farming family in Poland. With innate agricultural wisdom, Nico has developed a delphinium formula that is one part his own cultivation system, one part breeding his own species, and one part operating his own nurseries in two countries. Nico rotates his plants between fields and greenhouses in Holland and Portugal. His recent addition of the second location in Portugal allows him to stagger the growing process and eliminate reliance on a single site’s weather conditions. The result of his loyalty and undivided attention to the delphinium since he met “Princess Caroline” 26 years ago is a current yield of 1.4 million stems harvested each year by the Delphiniumkwekerij farm.

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THE FARMSTEAD ON WOODSON RIDGE OX FOR D, MISSISSIPPI PHOTOGRAPHS BY JULIE WAGE ROSS

ituated on the edge of Oxford, Mississippi, this hidden, yet industrious refuge has two working farms, a cooking school, guest cottages, and a newly renovated barn that doubles as an entertainment and event space. Anne and Sandy Sharp have lovingly preserved the site’s rustic charm. Modeled in part after Covey Rise in Louisiana, also established by the Sharps, The Farmstead grows 14 acres of fruit and vegetable crops. Together with the Louisiana operation, The Farmstead supplies 250 area restaurants with specialty, mostly heirloom, varieties. No mass farming allowed here. This 128-acre haven beckons visitors to bask in a place where cattle once grazed and escape to the solace of the country when the hustle and bustle of city life become too much. Both The Farmstead and Covey Rise work directly with farm-to-table chefs and restaurateurs in five states to cultivate specialty fruits and vegetables that cannot be bought from commodity produce houses. Oxford is home to some of the finest chefs and caterers in the region, and its locals are invited to join the action and prepare traditional Southern delicacies in sophisticated indoor and outdoor kitchens. This is the multisensory sanctuary that awaits those who yearn for tranquility, let’s say, following a University of Mississippi football game. The creation of one of the simple enjoyments of life — time spent with family and friends — came from the blend of harvesting humble fields, restoring a simple country barn, and sustaining relationships born out of Southern hospitality.

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Each story

is a part of our history. 100 years. 100 stories. For the last 100 years, Methodist Le Bonheur Healthcare has served as a beacon of expertise and care in our community and region. Our centennial is more than an anniversary. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a celebration of our commitment to the future of medicine. And, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re celebrating our history by sharing stories of care, compassion and commitment all year long.

To explore our dedication to the future of your health or to share your story, visit MLH100.org.

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S P E C I A L

S U P P L E M E N T T O

M E M P H I S

M A G A Z I N E

A portrait of Dr. Kashif Latif’s son, Ahmed, greets visitors at the AM Diabetes and Endocrinology Center, named in his honor.

MAKING IT PERSONAL W HEN HIS SON WAS BORN W ITH DIABETES , DR. KASHIF LATIF FOUND HIS TRUE CALLING . &7

by michael finger photographs by karen pulfer focht

r. Kashif Latif and his wife, Dr. Shazia Hussain, were looking forward to celebrating the first birthday of their son, but they knew something was wrong. “Ahmed would get glassy-eyed — that was the biggest thing,” says Latif, “and he would get irritable and cranky, and was always reaching for his bottle of water.” At such a young age, the boy couldn’t tell his anxious parents what was wrong, but tests confirmed their 11-month-old son had Type 1 diabetes mellitus, often known as juvenile diabetes.

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901 HE A LTH

Patient areas of the AM Diabetes and Endocrinology Center are brightened with artwork created by patients, staff members, and their families. The center’s founder, Dr. Kashif Latif, stands in the lobby with members of his medical team (L-R), Sarah Pulliam, FNP; Belinda Hilliard, DNP; and Jennifer Jurado, FNP.

“Ahmed was at such a young age that he couldn’t verbalize his symptoms,” says Latif. “He couldn’t tell us that he wasn’t feeling well from all the sugar he was getting.” So began a daily — sometimes hourly — regimen of pricking the child’s fingers and toes, drawing blood for a glucose monitor, and then administering daily doses of insulin to replace that which was no longer being produced by his pancreas. “It was such a small surface area, with his tiny fingers, so then you would prick the great toe,” says Latif. Administering the life-saving insulin, by injection, was never easy. “Learning the practical aspect of all these things — how to manage this disease — that was a real eye-opener.”

Changing Direction

orn in Pakistan, Latif attended the Aga Khan Medical College in that country and moved to the United States in 1992 to practice internal medicine after his wife received a fellowship at Le Bonheur Children’s Hospital in pediatrics. But in 1997, the situation with their child changed their lives forever. “We went through training at Le Bonheur about how to take care of a small child with diabetes, and I saw there was a need to address diabetes from a completely different level,” he says. “Being physicians, my wife and I were trained to be medical providers, but when you are on the other side of that fence, as a patient or a parent, you see there’s a big

gap. There are so many practical aspects to it — how to store the insulin, how to measure the blood sugar, how to use the syringe. I saw a need to merge the practical part with the technological part.” One day, Dr. Abbas Kitabchi, whom Latif considers his mentor, called and asked if Latif would join him for a juvenile diabetes fundraiser. Not only did he say yes to that request, he also told Kitabchi that he was thinking about returning to medical school to study endocrinology, the specialty that tackles diabetes, thyroid conditions, pituitary disorders, and other diseases affected by the human endocrine system. “Within four weeks he called back and said, ‘I’ve got a spot for you,’” says

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901 HE A LTH

Latif. “That was unusual, but what he did was create an accredited training program at UT and got it funded.” In 2003, with his new expertise, Latif opened the AM Diabetes and Endocrinology Center in the medical building at St. Francis Hospital - North. The initials honor his son, who has responded well to his treatment over the years, and today is a healthy student at Georgetown University, studying computer science. Four years ago, Latif moved into his present facility on Kate Bond Road, an ultra-modern complex across the street from St. Francis. In simple terms, diabetes mellitus is a disorder of the pancreas, a small organ in the abdomen which, in addition to hormones that

“Memphis already has plenty of gyms and spas, but there’s no place for diabetics. Our goal is to have a place for them because their exercise needs are different.” — Dr. Kashif Latif aid in digestion, produces insulin, necessary to control the body’s levels of sugar that are obtained from food. A precise level of sugar in the bloodstream is necessary for the proper function of nerves, muscles, and organs such as the brain, heart, kidneys, and eyes. “The focus here has always been to span the entire spectrum of diabetes,” says Latif. The facility includes examination and treatment rooms, a laboratory, research departments specialized areas for eye exams, and an education center that the doctor proudly notes is the largest part of the building. Scheduled to open early this summer is an exercise center tailored to the special needs of diabetes patients. Adjacent to it will be a complete physical therapy department. Memphis already has plenty of gyms and spas, “but there’s no place for diabetics,” says Latif. “Our goal is to have a place for them because their needs are different. If somebody has nerve damage to their feet, they can’t run on a regular treadmill. If they have problems with blood vessels in their eyes, they shouldn’t be lifting weights. If they have heart problems, they need to be monitored carefully. Each complication with diabetes brings with it a different need and capacity as far as exercise is concerned.”

Learning Curve

iabetes is considered a whole-body disease since it can affect so many different organs — often at the same time. With that diagnosis of a lifelong condition comes psychological demands, such as anxiety and depression. Latif’s center includes a psychologist on staff to help patients deal with these issues.

DIABET ES BY T HE NUMBERS ◗◗ Type 1: Known as juvenile diabetes, this condition — often diagnosed at birth or an early age — requires insulin replacement therapy. It is the most serious form of the disease. Type 1 represents about 10 percent of all diabetes cases. ◗◗ Type 2: Known as “adult-onset diabetes,” this condition can be managed by weight loss, dietary changes, exercise, stress reduction, and other factors that affect the way the human body converts sugar into glucose. ◗◗ 420 million: The number of people worldwide diagnosed with some form of diabetes. Five years ago, that number was 380 million. Thanks to the preponderance of sugar-laced sodas, snacks, and other food, Americans especially are facing an “obesity epidemic” and experts predict the number of diabetes patients will continue to increase at a dramatic rate. ◗◗ 8.3%: Percentage of the world’s population diagnosed with diabetes. ◗◗ 5 million: Annual number of deaths worldwide from complications of diabetes, which can include heart attacks and stroke. ◗◗ $245 billion: The global economic cost of diabetes, from lost work due to complications (which can include amputations and blindness) to the cost of medicines and monitoriing equipment. ◗◗ 50-140: Considered the normal range for fasting glucose levels. Results between 140 and 200 are considered “impaired” but consistent levels over 200 are considered definitive for diabetes. ◗◗ 1500 BCE: The first mention of diabetes, from an Egytian manuscript called the Ebyrs Papyrus. ◗◗ 1921: Canadian scientists Frederick Banting and Charles Herbert Best first isolated and purified insulin. ◗◗ 1963: First prototype of a pump developed to deliver insulin. It was the size of a backpack. A more portable version wasn’t marketed until 1976. Sources: International Diabetes Federation and the World Health Organization.

“What brings about depression is the chronicity of the disease,” says Latif, explaining that monitoring blood sugar levels and maintaining a healthy lifestyle are lifelong concerns. “It also ends up being a very personal issue. If somebody is checking their glucose levels and still getting readings of 200 or more, then that number can be perceived as a feedback of failure.” The patient has a sense, he says, of feeling helpless — what else can I do? And it doesn’t help if other members of the family are healthy. “If you have a household and only one person has diabetes, then it affects the others because of the food choices, or the activity choices. Everybody plays a role in it.” For his part, Latif told his son that “diabetes is his test, and how well he does with it will be his report card. He is still expected to perform in school and sports.” A positive mental outlook and the proper education are key elements to treating this disease. There is presently no cure for diabetes, but it can be maintained — if patients know what to do.

“What I’ve learned over the years is that the word ‘education’ has a negative connotation,” says Latif. “If you tell somebody they need diabetes education, at some level they find that offensive, saying, ‘We know how to eat, we know how to exercise.” So what Latif does is give his patients very specific, individualized instruction: “I will say I need them to walk 15 miles a week, no matter how they do it — three miles five times a week, or five miles three days a week. I want 1,000 crunches a week. I want two yoga sessions a week. If you are more precise in your instructions, then patients are more likely to follow them.” Education sessions presented by the staff include lessons on diet, medications, monitoring devices, and advances in technology. “Often health insurance doesn’t cover education or training, and we don’t break even on it, but that was my commitment from day one,” says Latif. “Our basic credo is to offer not only comprehensive diabetes and endocrine services, but to provide personalized care. That’s who we are.” contin u ed on page 56 M A Y 2 0 1 8 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 53

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Speech therapy enhances Parkinson’s patient’s life

ale Nevels was diagnosed with Parkinson’s disease more than 12 years ago. He was determined to not let it affect his life. He has continued playing golf, and more than a year ago took up boxing. He takes two lessons a week for about two hours per day. He said he lives for it. But one part of his disease that became a struggle was speech, particularly with his job as a packaging broker that requires him to have regular conversations with customers. “I realized I was talking to clients and they’d say they couldn’t understand me,” Nevels said. “I was difficult to understand. It was difficult to have a conversation with my wife or someone at church. My speech pattern was rapid fire.” Nevels learned about the work Regional One Health does to help Parkinson’s patients with their speech and he called to make an appointment with Johnna Johnson, speech and language pathologist at Regional One Health Center for Rehabilitative Medicine at the East Campus. “When I went to see Johnna my speech was rapid fire. People couldn’t understand me. She helped me learn to slow that down,” said Nevels. Nevels completed the LSVT Loud program with Johnson at Regional One Health’s Center for Rehabilitative Medicine. Johnson is one of six LSVT LOUD-certified clinicians in Shelby County. LSVT LOUD is a speech treatment that improves vocal loudness by stimulating the muscles of the larynx and speech mechanism through a range of exercises. Patients work with Johnson four days a week for one hour at a time over the course of one month. But the work continues at home; Johnson goes over daily homework assignments that help patients improve and maintain their speech. That constant maintenance is followed up three months later. Like many Parkinson’s patients, it was a slow process to realize what was going on for Nevels. He began noticing tremors in his hands and a general achiness in his arms. He traveled a lot, which made it worse. “The tremors were the worst thing,” he said. “I couldn’t figure out why my

When I went to see Johnna my speech was rapid fire. People couldn’t understand me. She helped me learn to slow that down. DALE NEVELS hands were shaking. My doctor said I had a Parkinson’s walk. I’ll always remember that. It’s like if you ever get stopped by the highway patrol and asked to walk a straight line. You can’t do it.” A decline in his speech came later. Johnson said people with Parkinson’s experience a hearing loss of two to four decibels. So when they’re told to speak louder they often believe they’re screaming. When a new patient comes in she records their voice and plays it back to them so they begin to understand the difference between their perception and reality of their voice. Getting someone to speak louder also forces them to speak slower, making their speech easier to understand. That’s where the LSVT LOUD program does its magic. But it also helps strengthen the tongue and throat muscles, which benefit more than speech. Long term, Parkinson’s patients can experience problems swallowing or have the need to cough when they eat. The No. 1 cause of death for Parkinson’s patients is aspiration pneumonia, and LSVT LOUD helps patients keep that at bay. The LSVT LOUD program also can work for people with multiple sclerosis and cerebral palsy.

Johnson said if someone notices a problem swallowing or coughing while eating that’s when they need to tell their physician who can make a referral to Johnson and Regional One Health. Nevels’ one piece of advice to others diagnosed with Parkinson’s is to seek professional assistance to maintain speech. He said he can’t imagine recovering his speech like he has in recent months without the help of Johnson and the program offered at Regional One Health. Johnson sees patients at Regional One Health Center for Rehabilitative Medicine at the East Campus, located at 6555 Quince Road.

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901 HE A LTH

contin u ed from page 53 Memphis Magazine’s

THE 2018

FACE

No Need for Needles

iabetes has been diagnosed, in its various forms, for centuries. Ancient manuscripts left behind by Egyptian, Greek, and other cultures referenced a disease that caused extreme thirst and excessive urination, along with a host of other maladies. Before the discovery of artificial insulin in the 1920s, that diagnosis usually carried with it the dread knowledge that the patient’s lifespan was half that of healthy men and women.

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Latif picks up a black box half the size of an iPhone, passes it over his upper arm, and within a second his blood sugar level is displayed on a small screen.

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New medical devices, such as portable insulin pumps, are no larger than many smartphones.

In more recent years, advances in technology have changed that outlook, but the condition still requires careful monitoring of blood sugar levels. Anyone with a friend or family member with diabetes knows about the spring-loaded lancets that prick a finger to draw a droplet of blood, which is carefully placed on a test trip inserted into a glucose monitor. These meters have become less expensive and more reliable, but still, drawing the blood hasn’t been a pleasant task. It doesn’t help that the meters and especially the disposable test strips can be quite expensive — not to mention the medication(s) required to treat the disease. In a meeting room at his center, Latif picks up a black box half the size of an iPhone, passes it over his upper arm, and within a second his blood sugar level is displayed on a small screen. Tap a button, and a graph shows how it has fluctuated — within normal limits, since he doesn’t have the disease — throughout the day. No needle jabbed into a finger, no 56 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • M A Y 2 0 1 8

Injuries don’t clock out at 5 p.m. Just because you’re injured outside normal office hours doesn’t mean you have to make a trip to the ER. The specialists at Campbell Clinic are available to treat your breaks and sprains on evenings and weekends. GERMANTOWN Mon – Thurs, 5-8pm | Sat, 8-11am 1400 S. Germantown Rd. SOUTHAVEN Mon – Thurs, 5-8pm 7545 Airways Blvd. ©2016 Campbell Clinic P.C. All rights reserved. Campbell Clinic is a registered trademark of Campbell Clinic P.C.

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waiting for the machine to measure. What he is wearing, only to see how well the device works, is a new form of glucose monitor that is taped to his arm. It’s about the size of a quarter, and has to be changed every few days, like a bandage. Coming soon, though, are implantable monitors — tucked into a pocket of skin on your arm — that read a patient’s blood sugar levels

A poster from a Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation event depicts Ahmed as Elvis. He’s now a student at Georgetown University.

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and send them directly to their iPhones or computers. The internal battery lasts up to 90 days, and the incision is small. That device, known as Professional Continuous Glucose Monitoring (CGM) therapy is still in the testing stages, and Latif ’s center is one of the few places in this area where tests are being conducted. That’s just one side of the technological spectrum. Administering the medicine — usually a form of insulin — is the newest challenge. Most patients, when they learn their blood sugar levels are too high, give themselves a shot — yes, with a needle. Some years ago, developers came out with a pump, which continually injects insulin into the body through a port, or tube. “The pump is a more physiologic way of delivering insulin,” says Latif. “If you give yourself a shot, you’re putting that amount of insulin under the skin, and it gets released

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901 HE A LTH

over time. With a pump, the insulin is trickled into the body a little at a time, so the level stays more constant.” Pumps currently being developed monitor the insulin levels and adjust it according to need, because the need can change depending on activities, stress, and other factors. “It’s like an artificial pancreas,” says Latif, “but it is still not 100 percent there, because there

“If you give yourself a shot, you’re putting that amount of insulin under the skin, and it gets released over time. With a pump, the insulin is trickled into the body a little at a time, so the level stays more constant.” — Dr. Kashif Latif

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are still things patients have to do manually. When you eat, you have to key in [on your computer] how much you are eating, and with a real pancreas obviously you wouldn’t have to do that.” At the present time, there is no cure for diabetes. There is no surgery to repair a pancreas that is not producing, or measuring, the amount of insulin a patient needs. But Latif is hopeful for the future. “This new evolution in glucose monitoring techniques is going to bring about a huge change in patient and provider behavior,” he says. “I think it’s going to change how we take care of diabetes.”

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• Discomfort in other areas of the upper body. Symptoms can include pain or discomfort in one or • Discomfort in other areas of the upper body. Symptoms can include pain or discomfort in one or both arms, the back, neck, jaw or stomach. both arms, the back, neck, jaw or stomach.

• Shortness of breath. This may occur with or without chest discomfort. • Shortness of breath. This may occur with or without chest discomfort.

• Other signs. These cold sweat, sweat,nausea nauseaororlightheadedness. lightheadedness. • Other signs. Thesemay mayinclude includebreaking breaking out out in in a a cold As As with men, women’s most is chest chestpain painorordiscomfort. discomfort.But But women with men, women’s mostcommon commonheart heartattack attack symptom symptom is women areare somewhat more likely than men to experience some of the other common symptoms, particularly shortness somewhat more likely than men to experience some of the other common symptoms, particularly shortness of breath, nausea/vomiting and of breath, nausea/vomiting andback backororjaw jawpain. pain.

Stroke StrokeWarning WarningSigns Signs • Sudden numbnessororweakness weaknessof ofthe the face, face, arm arm or leg, body • Sudden numbness leg, especially especiallyon onone oneside sideofofthe the body • Sudden confusion,orortrouble troublespeaking speaking or or understanding understanding • Sudden confusion, • Sudden trouble seeingininone oneororboth botheyes eyes • Sudden trouble seeing • Sudden trouble walking,dizziness dizzinessor orloss loss of of balance balance or • Sudden trouble walking, or coordination coordination • Sudden, severe headachewith withno noknown known cause cause • Sudden, severe headache

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PET GUIDE

Healing Hands FROM DER M ATOLOGY

TO OPHTH A LMOLOGY A ND BEYOND, A GROUP OF MEMPHIS SPECIALISTS CAN HELP YOUR A ILING PET. by shara clark

ike many dogs — and humans — in Memphis, Cocoa suffers from allergies. Tell-tale signs for her owner Bethany Paulus: The 11-year-old Pomeranian was itchy, scratching her eyes and mouth, and constantly chewing on her paws. After being

treated with medicine for years through her veterinarian, the problem persisted. In March,

PHOTOGRAPH BY BCY909 / DREAMSTIME

Paulus noticed an irritated, discolored spot on Cocoa’s stomach and took her to Memphis Veterinary Specialists (MVS) — the only practice of its kind within hundreds of miles, with a team of board-certified veterinary specialists in a variety of fields — for a check-up. For the first time in her life, Cocoa was given an allergy test — the same kind that would be conducted on a human. Dr. Tina Brown, a dermatologist at MVS in Cordova, shaved a small patch of hair off Cocoa’s side and injected her with trace amounts of about 60 common local environmental allergens — ragweed, Bermuda grass, molds, etc. — to check for allergic reactions. M A Y 2 0 1 8 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 73

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PET GUIDE

Dr. Tina Brown has worked at MVS for 10 years and specializes in diseases of the skin, ears, and claws. Many cases she sees involve allergies. In all the years Cocoa had allergies, Paulus’ regular vet had never done a test to pinpoint specific allergens. “They’d look at what was on her skin under a microscope,” Paulus says. And Cocoa had been given Apoquel for atopic dermatitis, but the medicine was not targeting her specific allergies: “She really wasn’t getting the relief she needed from that.” At MVS, via intradermal testing, Dr. Brown is able to determine exact allergens and create an individualized serum — to be given via subcutaneous injections or by mouth — which is formulated and filled in-house. “[Brown] was able to tell me all the things Cocoa was allergic to,” Paulus says, “which was a lot.” After just a couple of weeks on the serum, Paulus believes it’s “definitely helping her already.”

and a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Dermatology (ACVD). She’s been at MVS for 10 years and specializes in diseases of the skin, ears, and claws caused by allergies, parasites, infections, and autoimmune or endocrine issues. Still, most cases she sees involve allergies. “What I see primarily are dogs that have had recurring skin infections or ear infections,” Brown says. “It’s normal to have some yeast and bacteria on the skin, but if the skin’s inflamed with allergies, that’s why those infections occur. A lot of people don’t realize that ear and skin infections are often due to underlying allergies.” For those cases, as with Cocoa, Brown conducts intradermal allergy testing, which is thought to be the most accurate way to test — more so than a blood test. “It’s a dynamic reaction, the reaction takes place in the skin,” Brown says, “versus when you draw blood, it’s just looking for high levels of antibodies. But we know now that even high levels of antibodies, that’s just what’s circulating in

you can make every year better,” Brown says. “Also, that’s the safest way to manage them long-term. Because it’s not anything that suppresses their immune system or just blocks the signs; it actually retrains the immune system.” Currently the serum is available for dogs, cats, and horses, and MVS is the only practice in the region to formulate and fill those prescriptions on site. With dogs, allergy symptoms are typically more obvious, but, Brown says, “Cats can present a little differently.” Cats with allergies will often over-groom, removing patches of hair from their stomach and sides. Some pet owners will assume it’s a result of nervousness or anxiety. “A lot of cats get medicated with anti-anxiety meds, but they’re actually just allergic,” says Brown. Other somewhat common cases Brown sees are crusting or nodular autoimmune diseases. In those cases, a biopsy is taken to confirm disease and determine long-term management options. For those, “We’ll often reach for medications that suppress the immune system because it’s an autoimmune disease, and more than likely, those patients are going to be on medications for life,” says Brown. “So we need to make sure that it’s very safe. We don’t want to make the treatment worse than the disease.”

SEEING CLEARLY

r. Jane Ashley Huey’s first patient in clinics at vet school at Auburn UniversiSKIN DEEP ty was her 14-year-old horse Lady, who’d had a severe, rown jokes that deep wound on her cornea, while in general called a melting corneal ulpractice/primary cer. With her own animal care veterinary medicine, she suffering eye problems, Huey decided to go back to school developed a special interest to focus on dermatology bein ophthalmology. Dr. Jane Ashley Huey is a veterinary ophthalmologist whose work incorporates internal cause no one had warned Also, she says, “The eye is medicine, emergency medicine, and surgery to help animals with a variety of eye issues. her that every animal she’d the most beautiful structure in the body. It’s really cool to see was going to come in for scratching. While it wasn’t actually every anithe bloodstream. It doesn’t necessarily mean see that anatomy — the nerves and vessels. that’s one of the top allergens; it shows expomal, “Allergies are so common,” she says, “and And [ophthalmology] incorporates internal sure.” I didn’t feel like I was well-prepared with just medicine, emergency medicine, and surgery all together, and allows me to work on mulfour years of vet school.” Following the skin test, patients are pretiple species.” After a one-year rotating internship in scribed an allergen-specific serum to work on After her three-year residency in ophthalcompanion medicine and surgery, Brown desensitization. “We look at short-term things was accepted for a dermatology residency at [like medicated bath soap] to help them feel mology at Kansas State University, Huey Louisiana State University and completed her more comfortable, but long-term if you can moved to San Diego, California, where she training in 2008. Today, she is board-certified treat the underlying problem, then hopefully practiced veterinary ophthalmology and

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helped care for animals at the San Diego Zoo Safari Park. There, she performed surgery on an ailing rhinoceros’ eye. The rhino was given heavy sedatives, and Huey had to “go, go, go, hurry, before the rhino wakes up!” Huey, a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Ophthalmologists (ACVO), has been with MVS since 2016. She recently consulted on the CT scan of Benjamin — a baby primate at the Memphis Zoo. Of course, she doesn’t work with exotic animals on a daily basis. Her typical work consists of helping pets with eye problems, such as corneal wounds, cataracts, glaucoma, and congenital or developmental abnormalities. Cataracts are quite common, especially for dogs with diabetes. “There’s no treatment to delay the onset of cataracts or to reverse cataracts,” Huey says. “But cataracts can cause inflammation inside the eye, and that is important to control because it can cause significant damage and lead to other problems like glaucoma and retinal detachment.” Topical anti-inflammatories are available and can help prevent long-term complications, but some dogs may be candidates for cataract surgery. They have to pass several tests, “to make sure they’re ready for surgery and that they’re good candidates to have the highest prognosis possible for a good outcome,” Huey says. If tests are passed, Huey uses an operating microscope to magnify the eye while she works. “We use a human cataract surgery machine that removes the cataracts so they cannot come back, and we implant artificial lenses into the capsular bag so we can try to restore the dog’s vision to near perfect.” While cataract surgery is possible on cats, felines rarely develop cataracts. Many cases with dogs are a result of diabetes, but diabetic cats naturally have a lower risk for diabetic cataracts. In dogs, “There’s an enzyme that converts blood sugar, which filters into the eye,” Huey says. “The sugar goes into the lens and is sent through a pathway, and in dogs the normal pathway is overwhelmed, and so it has to [redirect], and it makes these fat sugar alcohols in the lens that draw fluid. So dogs get tons of fluid in the eye, which swells and ruptures the lens fibers, and they get cataracts. Cats naturally have a lower level of that enzyme, and that enzyme decreases as they age.” Owners of elderly dogs may notice a blue haze develop on the eye lens, but that doesn’t necessarily indicate cataracts or blindness. As with humans, dogs will begin to develop nuclear sclerosis — a change in density of the crystalline lens nucleus — as they age. People can begin to see these symptoms around the age of 40. “The center of our lens

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hardens, dehydrates, and consolidates and becomes more opaque and less flexible,” says Huey. “In dogs, that happens at age 6 and becomes progressively more dense and dehydrated and opaque.” When that happens, the dog may have an issue with depth perception, but a veterinarian or veterinary ophthalmologist can determine whether or not a cataract is present. The vet will use a slit lamp or examine the back of the eye via a fundic exam. “If I can see into their eye and see their retina with pretty good detail, then they should be able to see out,” Huey says. Other cases Huey sees involve glaucoma, retinal disease, and removal of tumors. Recently, Huey performed a lip-to-lid surgery on a dog name Dutchess, who had a rapidly progressing tumor on her eyelid. To avoid damaging Dutchess’ lid, “We had to graft tissue from her lip,” says Huey. “It mimics the lid margin. [After three weeks], we rechecked her and removed her sutures. She can blink her eye fully, the tissue is in place, and the swelling is down significantly. “That is a surgery we don’t do very often, but she is doing well, and we got clean margins on the tissue and removed a really bad tumor.”

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r. Huey and Dr. Brown are just two in a team of experts at MVS. Presently, MVS employs nine board-certified veterinary specialists, nationally known as leading specialists in their fields, which include dentistry, dermatology, diagnostic imaging, internal medicine, oncology, ophthalmology, and surgery (with a focus on neurologic, orthopedic, and soft-tissue surgeries). MVS’ services, most of which are offered by referral only, treat a variety of health conditions and injuries. MVS is the partner hospital for all first responder animals in the region and offers free annual eye exams for certified service animals. After-hours emergency services are also available. For Memphis’ beloved pets, like Bethany Paulus’ Pomeranian Cocoa, MVS doctors have been life-changing. Last year, specialists there performed a successful hip surgery on Cocoa, and earlier this year, removed her gallbladder. “I would never go anywhere else,” Paulus says. “They really care about what they do, and you can tell. They treat it as seriously as a pet owner, like they’re caring for their own animals.”

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ASK VANCE

Collierville’s Mystery Tomb Our trivia expert solves local questions of who, what, when, where, why, and why not. Well, sometimes.

by vance lauderdale DEAR VANCE: Who is buried in that lonely tomb that sits all by itself on a hill alongside Poplar Avenue (Highway 72) as you drive through the heart of Collierville? — h.t., memphis.

below: Hardeman Adington’s tomb has stood on a hill next to Poplar Avenue for 150 years. below right: The inscription on the vault is quite specific regarding the length of his life. right: Other tombstones are reduced to stone fragments.

I can tell you right now that nobody is actually buried — or even “entombed” — within this ancient vault. And I can also say that it doesn’t exactly “sit by itself.” I’m not trying to be difficult here — no more than usual, that is. What I mean is that the ancient stone tomb that thousands of motorists drive by every day, probably without giving it any thought, is actually one of several gravesites in an old family cemetery that has been in use since the mid-1800s, and has even seen recent burials. On a visit last month, I noticed a shiny brass marker dated 2015. It’s the old rectangular stone vault that catches your eye, though, and a neatly carved inscription on the west end tells the story: It belongs to H. Abington, who was born in 1810 in North Carolina, and died here in 1860, at the precise age of 50 years, 9 months, and 16 days. The “H” stands for Hardeman, and he was a member of one of Collierville’s earliest and most important families. Besides being one of the largest landowners in this region, Abington’s second child, James, was elected the first mayor of Collierville when the town was incorporated in 1870. Other members of the Abington family — and it was extensive, since everyone had many children and DEAR H.T.:

grandchildren and nieces and nephews — served as business leaders, physicians, lawyers, and even as an Arkansas state senator. And Hardeman Abington played a key role in all this, because — as his tomb carving indicates, though not as clearly as I’m about to tell you now — he was the one who moved his large family here from North Carolina. I know these various facts about the Abingtons, and other early residents of Collierville, because I took the time to look through Collierville, Tennessee: Her People and Neighbors, at 532 pages a decidedly comprehensive history of that community, written by longtime resident Clarence Pinkston Russell, and published about 20 years ago (there’s no date) by the Collierville Chamber of Commerce. Russell takes readers back to the days when Collierville, then known as Oak Ridge, was founded and only began to prosper when it was linked to Memphis by the railroad. Early businesses mainly revolved around cotton and other kinds of farming, though one of the thriving firms in the 1800s belonged to a coffin-maker. In those days before doctors and reliable medicine, and with yellow fever epidemics every few years, coffins were often in short supply.

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“Nelson’s resorts to no guarantee schemes or other questionable methods of securing patronage.”

Obviously, Collierville grew by leaps and bounds, with businesses crowded around three sides of the town square: grocers, butchers, druggists, livery stables, blacksmiths, dry goods stores, and even a brick kiln, with offices for physicians, lawyers, and other firms. Then as now, the railroad station formed the southern border of the square. The Abingtons, whose main home was somewhere on present-day Sycamore Road (southwest of the downtown area) before it burned in 1922, sold chunks of their land to other citizens who, like them, had moved here, and at one point offered some acreage for use by an African-American church. Many of the original Abington family’s descendants still live in the area today. But back to what I was saying about the “lonely” tomb on the hill. A survey of the cemetery conducted in 1970 revealed some 20 other graves, many of their markers damaged or missing, and the report of that survey noted, “The cemetery appears to have been largely destroyed.” A recent visit (as you can see here) reveals that the large “box” tomb of Hardeman Abington seems to be in remarkably fine shape — a testament to the hard work of some stone carvers in Memphis — but except for the more recent burials, most of the other, older gravestones are crumbling. Even so, in her book, Russell notes that Hardeman was originally buried here alongside his daughter and wife, who had died several years before he did. And please note that I said he was “buried.” Again, with Russell as my source, it seems that when Hardeman died, his will specified an impressive stone vault. But with the disruption of the Civil War, things got delayed and it wasn’t until five years later that the vault was finally completed by Fisher Amis & Company of Memphis (they carved their name along the bottom edge of the vault) and hauled all the way to Collierville where, according to Russell, it was placed over Hardeman’s remains. In other words, there is nobody — and I mean that literally: no body — inside this old tomb.

Nelson’s Business College

PHOTOGRAPHS BY VANCE LAUDERDALE

DEAR VANCE: While researching old businesses in Memphis, I’ve come across several references to Nelson’s Business College. What can you tell me about this establishment? — g.h, memphis.

DEAR G.H.: Surely everyone remembers the time Nelson

Business College’s Fighting Stenographers shellacked the UT Volunteers in the Sugar Bowl — one of the greatest gridiron victories in college football — and business college — history. Wait, that can’t be right. Let me check that story and get back to you. Here’s what I know. Albert E. Nelson was a Cincinnati businessman who ventured to Memphis in 1888

and opened a small business school at 189 Madison, in a building that had once housed a boot and saddle store. Early advertisements for the school were unusual; instead of describing course offerings, as you might expect, they declared that “Nelson’s Business College Treats Every Student as a Lady or Gentleman.” Within a year, the school moved to the second floor of a building on Second Street, and two years later moved to 390 Madison, and two years later relocated again to 41 Madison. You get the sense they couldn’t quite find a proper home. Even so, their ads began to proclaim it was “The Leading College” without really explaining why. By 1895, Nelson was listed as the president of the institution, and C.H. Threlkeld served as the principal. Full-page advertisements in city directories now claimed it was “the only school having actual business daily from start to finish,” which is not really clear to me, and “each student is examined by practical businessmen, who sign his diploma.” Classes included general business, penmanship, rapid calculating, and commercial law. What really set Nelson’s apart from other schools, however, were these two claims: “Men Teachers Only” and — this made me laugh — “Electric Fans.” By 1910, Albert Nelson was no longer connected with the school; I don’t know what happened to him. Threlkeld and a fellow named Oren Baker took over as co-principals. The school was now established at 290 Madison, where it would remain for years. Courses included shorthand and “expert accounting.” Their ads continued to be rather vague, declaring that “Nelson’s resorts to no guarantee schemes or other questionable methods of securing patronage” and bragged about “more than 23 years in Memphis without a vacation.” Vacation? Even so, Nelson’s Business College managed to survive until 1930, when it finally closed, no doubt unable to compete with the larger colleges established here. The old black-and-white postcard displayed above, showing a “class drill in touch typewriting,” is the only image I have been able to find of the school. The former location on Madison is now the site of the new Downtown School.

above:: Nelson’s Business above College advertised that it “treats every student as a lady or gentleman.”

got a question for vance?

EMAIL: askvance@memphismagazine.

com MAIL: Vance Lauderdale, Memphis

magazine, 65 Union Avenue, Suite 200, Memphis, TN 38103 ONLINE: memphismagazine.com/ ask-vance

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G A R D E N VA R I E T Y

The Perfect Place Barbara Rea has transformed a grassy lawn into a truly special garden in East Memphis.

by christine arpe gang

s there a difference between a “garden” and simply a yard with a lot of pretty plants? If you ask Memphis horticulturist Suzy Askew, she would quote one of her heroines in landscape architecture, Ellen Biddle Shipman, who said a true garden has three essential elements: It must be designed, it is green with plants, and it is enclosed or private. Most of us would probably have slightly more relaxed ideas of what constitutes a garden than Shipman, who was designing significant public and private gardens in the early to mid-twentieth century. Tennessee Extension Service and continue to donate 40 or more volunteer hours per year in garden-related activities. Rea’s outdoor modus operandi is more akin to the methods of Allan Armitage, professor emeritus of horticulture at the University

Earlier this spring, I saw lots of evidence of happy shade-loving plants freely reproducing here and there throughout the woodsy space. of Georgia and author of numerous books on gardening. He creates new gardens by starting with a path. Then he begins “designing” them by placing suitable plants on each side of the path. Even we design-challenged gardeners can remember his basic guideline: short plants in front and taller ones in back. When Rea moved to her property 12 years ago, it was basically a big grassy lawn with numerous tall trees and a few azaleas. She

PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRISTINE ARPE GANG

Barbara Rea modestly refers to her East Memphis property as a yard with various planted areas. But after visiting it recently, I would say it definitely meets the true description of a garden despite having only one of Shipman’s criteria nailed: Many different plants are thriving in it. Enclosed in some places, it is mostly open with plants clustered in wide borders along the driveway and walkways. It is not designed with pencil and paper but with her innate talent for placing plants where they show off their best attributes coupled with an appreciation for the improvements made by Mother Nature. Some of this talent comes from working in her grandmother’s garden as a child, but Rea also continues to learn through her memberships in the Memphis Horticultural Society, the Mid-South Hosta Society, and the MidSouth Hydrangea Society. She is also part of the Memphis Area Master Gardeners, a group of gung-ho plant lovers who must pass a 14-week course offered by the University of

began by making a path under some of those trees using leaves put through her trusty Honda mulching mower. Footsteps and rainfall tamp those leaves down into a soft covering that will suppress weeds and, as the leaves decompose, enrich the soil just like leaves do in naturally wooded areas. “I try to just let the forest do its thing,” Rea says. Earlier this spring, I saw lots of evidence of happy shade-loving plants freely reproducing here and there throughout the woodsy space. Excess trilliums, yellow woodpoppies, hellebores, and some terrifically prolific Italian arum are gladly shared with fellow gardeners willing to dig them up. When she bought the half-acre property, Rea knew she could not afford to turn it into a garden if she bought all of the plants at retail nurseries and big-box stores. In advance of her move, she dug up plants from her previous garden and stepped up her awareness for freebies like unwanted but healthy plants tossed to the curb with root balls still intact, as well as shared plants from fellow gardeners. That’s how she accumulated dozens of hostas, seven bright orange azaleas so big she had to haul them one-by-one in a wheelbarrow, and a Florida anise shrub, among others. Thanks to tips from contractors she met at work as an engineering specialist at Memphis Light, Gas and Water, she was also able to “rescue” plants growing around buildings scheduled for demolition. “They knew I was into gardening and

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willing to dig up plants,” says Rea, who also hauled bricks and rocks to lay for walkways and stack around flower beds by herself and little by little. It took numerous trips to a big retail store to get a cubic yard (27 cubic feet) of crushed limestone for a path by filling buckets holding a cubic foot of material until all of it was in her yard. She moved a pile of heavy pavers in the same brick-by-brick way. Her eyes are always alert to curbside discards and she often makes impromptu turnarounds to retrieve them. One recent find, a baker’s rack placed at the curb, now holds decorative and useful items on her covered side porch. Rea actually rescued her house from a wrecking ball as well. The charming 1,200-square-foot house built in 1935 was once home to a family that operated a dairy farm on the property. Most of the farm property was sold for residential development years before Rea bought the remaining half-acre and house in 2016 when it was being marketed as a tear-down. Rea, who was attracted to its many windows and roughly plastered walls, turned it into a cozy cottage decorated with heirlooms, found items, and bargain pieces by, once again, using her knack to find just the perfect place for all of them. It took her several years, but Barbara Rea turned what was little but a grassy lawn on her halfacre property into a series of lovely gardens.

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  30 miles from Memphis

 -- “You don’t have to go far to get away!”

M A Y 2 0 1 8 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 83

DINING OUT

The Real Deal Nurtured for decades by a family who cares, Lotus restaurant turns Vietnamese cooking into a fragrant feast.

by pamela denney | photographs by justin fox burks

n Memphis, where personal stories about Elvis seem commonplace, Joe and Hanh Bach’s connection to the King still delights me. But as with most good stories, some history will help.

The couple, who opened the first Vietnamese restaurant in Memphis almost 40 years ago, fled Saigon in 1975, a month before the city’s fall to the North Vietnamese Army. From Guam, they traveled to California and then to Arkansas, where Joe, who had worked as a photographer and translator for English-speaking journalists, helped at the Ft. Chaffee processing center to relocate other Vietnamese refugees. A few months later, Joe, Hanh,

and their young son Han moved to Memphis under the sponsorship of All Saints Episcopal Church. Joe attended Memphis State, and Hanh worked as a server at the original Nam King. Although the couple didn’t open their own restaurant until 1981, Hanh catered on the side, sharing wedding cakes and Vietnamese home cooking with neighbors and friends, including the late Lester Hoffman, Elvis’ longtime dentist and recipient of

a signature pink Cadillac. For the Bach’s five children — daughter, Kimberly, and three more sons, Solomon, Victor, and Bernard — Hoffman and his wife Sterling became adopted grandparents. They championed Joe and Hanh, as well, co-signing the loan to buy their restaurant on Summer Avenue, located across the street from the original Holi-

day Inn. Joe and Hanh named the restaurant Lotus, a symbol, they explain, of loyalty, family, and a beautiful flower that grows from the swampy mud. “The Hoffmans, they loved my cooking,” says Hanh as she tells her story before dinner service begins. Then she jumps up to retrieve a portrait of the Hoffmans, frozen in time like the restaurant’s beaded curtains, bamboo wallpaper, and colorful mural of palm trees on a bucolic beach. For a second or two, the energetic chef is wistful, but then she lights up again. “We are very lucky,” Hanh says. “Many, many people love our family.” Scroll through online restaurant reviews, and customer comments confirm Hanh’s words. People who ate at Lotus as children still eat at the restaurant today, with their own youngsters in tow. A relative newcomer (I’ve only been going to Lotus for about 10 years), I am nonetheless an ardent fan, along with half-adozen friends who head to Lotus annually to celebrate backto-back dinners for New Year’s: the first on December 31st and the second for Chinese New Year sometime in February. Served over a long weekend, the menu for Chinese New Year is spectacular with dishes like fried potato nests filled with scallop, shrimp, and crab and steamed baby squid filled with mushrooms, pork, and vermicelli and sliced in half like mysterious stuffed eggs. Other New Year’s dishes are equally memorable: an impressive catfish, fried whole

below, left to right: Located on Summer Avenue near Mendenhall, Lotus specializes in Vietnamese dishes like banh cuon, served by Victor Bach, and sweet and sour ﬁsh. The fried catﬁsh, a Chinese New Year specialty, is available year-round by special order. 84 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • M A Y 2 0 1 8

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PAM’S PICS: THREE TO TRY

BANH XEO ($9) Translated as “sizzling shell,” Banh Xeo is a savory rice pancake stuffed with shrimp and ground pork, fried crispy, and sprinkled with housemade ﬁsh sauce. It is my favorite dish in Memphis. (Big statement, but true.)

CUBE TENDER BUTTER BEEF ($15) “It’s our version of American steak,” explains Victor Bach, Joe and Hanh’s son, about the tender cubed sirloin, stir-fried with onions, butter, and garlic and garnished with chopped lettuce and tomato slices.

head-to-tail and plated like it’s swimming off the platter; and bacon-wrapped shrimp garnished with chopped peanuts and served in a copper-colored sauce made with applesauce, sweet potato jam, and a little vinegar and sugar. For most dishes at Lotus — both special occasion and dayto-day — a flick of sugar knits together the cuisine’s signature flavor profile of spicy, salty, sour, and sweet. Citrus and fresh herbs — lemongrass, mint, ginger, cilantro, and basil, both sweet and purple Thai — are integral, too. During the warm months, Hanh grows a garden behind the restaurant, and handfuls of aromatic herbs and peppers season her soups, stir-fry, and dipping sauces, all house-made. (Pro tip: The heat index of the pepper sauce at Lotus can merit a pirate flag warning.) “We use all kinds of hot peppers: Thai peppers, Indian chili peppers, the ones my brother grows, the ones my sister grows,” Hanh explains. “We use a different mixture, but the peppers are always fresh.” Self-taught by decades of practice, Hanh’s cooking style is unique, influenced by her family, her homeland, and her longtime customers. Growing up, she learned from her mother, who worked as a private cook for a French family in Saigon. Today at Lotus, boneless chicken or duck stuffed with parsley, garlic, onions, olives, chestnuts, kidney beans, and ground chicken and pork pay tribute to Hanh’s

upbringing. The off-menu dish — call a week ahead to order — is rich, earthy, and absolutely French. “No Vietnamese. No Chinese,” Hanh explains. Other Lotus dishes, however, reflect a melting pot of influences. “Yes, my mother’s cooking is Vietnamese, but she was doing fusion before anyone even called it fusion,” says Han, who recently relocated from Hawaii to help his parents at the restaurant. Han is the most gifted cook among the children, says his brother

RICE NOODLE SOUP COMBINATION ($10) A cure-all for any ailment, the combination soup includes three kinds of protein — pork, beef, and chicken — in slow-simmered stock studded with vermicelli, green onions, bean sprouts, and garlic.

LOTUS VIETNAMESE RESTAURANT 4970 Summer Ave. 901-682-1151 ★★★

★★★★ ★★★ ★★ ★

Exceptional Very good Satisfactory Skip it!

FOOD: The menu is Vietnamese,

touted as one of the healthiest cuisines in the world, along with some Chinese. Lotus does not use MSG. SERVICE: Service can be slow, so bring your own wine, help yourself to a glass behind the counter, and remember: Every dish is cooked fresh to order. PRICES: Appetizers ($1.25 to $9); soups ($3 to $10); entrees ($9 to $15). OPEN: Opens for dinner at 5:30 p.m. seven nights a week.

People who ate at Lotus as children still eat at the restaurant today, with their own youngsters in tow. Bernard, and like his siblings, he grew up in the restaurant. “At age 6, I’m sure I was the youngster server in Memphis,” Han says, laughing. Looking back, Han remembers the family’s frequent drives to New Orleans to buy ingredients unavailable in Memphis and the initial resistance of customers to authentic Vietnamese food. “In the beginning, my parents had a very hard time,” Han says. “People only knew dishes like sweet and sour pork, so my mother had to mix in Cantonese.” As customers grew knowledgeable and newcomers moved to Memphis, Hanh introduced more authentic Vietnamese cuisine. Marked with asterisks on the menu, the Vietnamese dishes are among the restaurant’s most popular. Vietnamese vermicelli

Bernard, Hanh, and Joe Bach

is shrimp, onions, bean sprouts, and tiny bits of pork stir-fried with Hanh’s curry, which is a little spicier than most. Fragrant and vitamin-packed, lemongrass dishes made with proteins and vegetables taste bright and healthy like just-picked mint. And then there are the soups, such as roasted pork noodle, an irresistible combination of plump wontons, paper-thin slices of pork, and a mound of spring green cilantro floating in the middle. Order the restaurant’s pho, and while you merrily slurp up noodles with your head in the bowl, Joe will likely stop by with a sample of beef bone marrow in a small ceramic bowl. “Here taste,” he will say, melting the marrow between his fingertips. “We cook the bone broth four days.” M A Y 2 0 1 8 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 85

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the

MEMPHIS DINING guide

The taste and spirit of Gulf Coast seafood comes to the former Chiwawa space in Midtown, thanks to owner George Gouras, pictured above. The menu is simple and fresh with standouts like steamed crab claws, char-grilled Cajun oysters, head-on shrimp, and a beer station with local labels on tap.

Tidbits: Indian Pass Raw Bar & Grill

irst a confession: I like my oysters raw, slurped from a briny half shell. Fried oysters? Forget it. Chargrilled and loaded with cheese? Only when I’m drinking. “Have you ever eaten broiled oysters?” asks George Gouras when I explain my propensities during our interview at Indian Pass, his new seafood restaurant on Madison at the edge of Overton Square. When I answer no, Gouras heads for the restaurant’s flat top and plops a dozen or so oysters on the heated grill. A ladle or two of lemon butter comes next, along with minced garlic and onion. Mesmerized by the smell, I watch the oysters sizzle and pop. “The right balance in the lemon butter is key,” Gouras explains, scooting the oysters back and forth be-

tween square-end spatulas. “When the lemon butter browns, it changes the flavor profile.” Indeed. The oysters with a wedge of Texas toast taste delicious like the beach, as do the restaurant’s shrimp, prepared in a similar way. Although neither shrimp nor oysters are broiled, Gouras is partial to the dish and to the name, which originated at his uncle’s Florida restaurant. A homegrown expert on seafood from the Gulf, Gouras grew up in Panama City not far from the state’s pristine Forgotten Coast, where the original Indian Pass restaurant is located near Port St. Joe. For its reinvention in Memphis, Indian Pass keeps the seafood simple and fresh: gumbo, oysters, crab legs, head-on shrimp, and seafood dip — crab or Mahi-Mahi — with a side

of warm pita. For dessert, try house-made peanut butter pie or look ahead for banana pudding, coming to the menu this summer. Along with the food, the spirited vibe at Indian Pass stays true to its coastal roots. Outside, listen to a lineup of local musicians perform on a covered two-tier deck. Inside, linger at the beer station with its 10 local brews on tap and 50 more bottled labels. If you are lucky, self-proclaimed beer wench Susan Meriwether will be nearby to facilitate tastings and disperse fun advice. “Try the Cat Nap IPA,” she said on a recent visit. “It smells like hooch.”

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JUSTIN FOX BURKS

by pamela denney

Indian Pass Raw Bar & Grill, 2059 Madison Ave. (901-207-7397) $$

We celebrate our city’s community table and the people who grow, cook, and eat the best Memphis food at M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M / F O O D - D I N I N G 86 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • A P R I L

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2018

4/16/18 2:50 PM

CIT Y DINING LIST

A Curated Guide to Eating Out

emphis magazine offers this curated restaurant listing as a service to its readers. Broken down alphabetically by neighborhoods, this directory does not list every restaurant in town. It does, however, include the magazine’s “Top 50” choices of must-try restaurants in Memphis, a DINING SYMBOLS group that is updated every August. Establishments open B — breakfast less than a year are not eligible for “Top 50” but are noted as L — lunch “New.” This guide also includes a representative sampling D — dinner of other Bluff City eating establishments. No fast-food SB — Sunday brunch facilities or cafeterias are listed, nor have we included WB — weekend brunch establishments that rely heavily on take-out business. X— wheelchair accessible Restaurants are included regardless of whether they ad MRA — member, Memphis vertise in Memphis magazine; those that operate in multi Restaurant Association ple locations are listed under the neighborhood of their $ — under $15 per person without drinks or desserts original location. This guide is updated regularly, but we $$ — under $25 recommend that you call ahead to check on hours, prices, $$$ — $26-$50 and other details. Suggestions from readers are welcome; $$$$ — over $50 please contact us at dining@memphismagazine.com.

CENTER CITY AGAVE MARIA—Menu items at this Mexican eatery include a variety of tapas, tacos, tortas, and more. Closed Sunday. 83 Union. 341-2096. L, D, X, $-$$ ALDO’S PIZZA PIES—Serving gourmet pizzas — including Mr. T Rex — salads, and more. Also 30 beers, bottled or on tap. 100 S. Main. 577-7743; 752 S. Cooper. 725-7437. L, D, X, $-$$ THE ARCADE—Possibly Memphis’ oldest cafe. Specialties include sweet potato pancakes, a fried peanut butter and banana sandwich, and breakfast served all day. 540 S. Main. 526-5757. B, L, D (Thurs.-Sat.), X, MRA, $ AUTOMATIC SLIM’S—Longtime downtown favorite specializes in contemporary American cuisine emphasizing local ingredients; also extensive martini list. 83 S. Second. 525-7948. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ BANGKOK ALLEY—Thai fusion cuisine includes noodle and curry dishes, chef-specialty sushi rolls, coconut soup, and duck and seafood entrees. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. at Brookhaven location; call for hours. 121 Union Ave. 522-2010; 2150 W. Poplar at Houston Levee (Collierville). 854-8748; 715 W. Brookhaven Cl. 590-2585. L, D, X, $-$$ BARDOG TAVERN—Classic American grill with Italian influence, Bardog offers pasta specialties such as Grandma’s NJ Meatballs, as well as salads, sliders, sandwiches, and daily specials. 73 Monroe. 275-8752. B (Mon.-Fri.), L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ BEDROCK EATS & SWEETS—Memphis’ only Paleocentric restaurant offering such dishes as pot roast, waffles, enchiladas, chicken salad, omelets, and more. Closed for dinner Sun. 327 S. Main. 409-6433. B, L, D, X, $-$$ BELLE TAVERN—Serving elevated bar food, including a butcher board with a variety of meats and cheeses, as well as daily specials. 117 Barboro Alley. 249-6580. L (Sun.), D, $ BLEU—This eclectic restaurant features American food with global influences and local ingredients. Among the specialties are a 14-oz. bone-in rib-eye and several seafood dishes. 221 S. Third, in the Westin Memphis Beale St. Hotel. 334-5950. B, L, D, WB, X, MRA, $$-$$$ BLUEFIN RESTAURANT & SUSHI LOUNGE— Serves Japanese fusion cuisine featuring seafood and steak, with seasonally changing menu; also, a sushi bar and flatbread pizza. 135 S. Main. 528-1010. L, D, X, $-$$ BRASS DOOR IRISH PUB—Irish and New-American cuisine includes such entrees as fish and chips, burgers, sandwiches, salads, and daily specials. 152 Madison. 572-1813. L, D, SB, $ CAFE KEOUGH—European-style cafe serving quiche, paninis, salads, and more. 12 S. Main. 509-2469. B, L, D, X, $ CAPRICCIO GRILL ITALIAN STEAKHOUSE—Offers prime steaks, fresh seafood (lobster tails, grouper, mahi mahi),

pasta, and several northern Italian specialties. 149 Union, The Peabody. 529-4199. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$$ CAROLINA WATERSHED—This indoor/outdoor eatery, set around silos, features reimagined down-home classics, including fried green tomatoes with smoked catfish, a buttermilk fried chicken sandwich, burgers, and more. 141 E. Carolina. 321-5553. L, D, WB, $-$$ CATHERINE & MARY’S—A variety of pastas, grilled quail, pâté, razor clams, and monkfish are among the dishes served at this Italian restaurant in the Chisca. 272 S. Main. 254-8600. D, X, MRA, $-$$$ CHEZ PHILIPPE—Classical/contemporary French cuisine presented in a luxurious atmosphere with a seasonal menu focused on local/regional cuisine. The crown jewel of The Peabody for 35 years. Afternoon tea served Wed.-Sat., 1-3:30 p.m. (reservations required). Closed Sun.-Tues. The Peabody, 149 Union. 5294188. D, X, MRA, $$$$ COZY CORNER—Serving up ribs, pork sandwiches, chicken, spaghetti, and more; also homemade banana pudding. Closed Sun.-Mon. 745 N. Parkway and Manassas. 527-9158. L, D, $ DIRTY CROW INN—Serving elevated bar food, including poutine fries, fried catfish, and the Chicken Debris, a sandwich with smoked chicken, melted cheddar, and gravy. 855 Kentucky. 207-5111. L, D, $ EVELYN & OLIVE—Jamaican/Southern fusion cuisine includes such dishes as Kingston stew fish, Rasta Pasta, and jerk rib-eye. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun.-Mon. 630 Madison. 748-5422. L, D, X, $ FELICIA SUZANNE’S—Southern cuisine with low-country, Creole, and Delta influences, using regional fresh seafood, local beef, and locally grown foods. Entrees include shrimp and grits. Closed Sun. and Mon. A downtown staple at Brinkley Plaza, 80 Monroe, Suite L1. 523-0877. L (Fri. only), D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ FERRARO’S PIZZERIA & PUB—Rigatoni and tortellini are among the pasta entrees here, along with pizzas (whole or by the slice) with a variety of toppings. 111 Jackson. 522-2033. L, D, X, $ FLIGHT RESTAURANT & WINE BAR— Serves steaks and seafood, along with such specialties as bison ribeye and Muscovy duck, all matched with appropriate wines. 39 S. Main. 521-8005. D, SB, X, $-$$$ FLYING FISH—Serves up fried and grilled versions of shrimp, crab, oysters, fish tacos, and catfish; also chicken and burgers. 105 S. Second. 522-8228. L, D, X, $-$$ THE FRONT PORCH—Beale Street Landing eatery serves Southern-inspired appetizers, such as Crispy Grit Bites, along with burgers, sandwiches, and salads. Closed Monday. 251 Riverside Dr. 524-0817. L, X, $ THE GRAY CANARY—The sixth restaurant from chefs Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman, offering small plates and entrees cooked on an open flame.

(This guide, compiled by our editors, includes editorial picks and advertisers.)

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Oysters, octopus, and hearty steaks are among the menu options at this eatery in Old Dominick Distillery. Closed Mon. 301 S. Front. 466-6324. D, WB, X, $-$$$. GUS’S WORLD FAMOUS FRIED CHICKEN—Serves chicken with signature spicy batter, along with homemade beans, slaw, and pies. 310 S. Front. 527-4877; 215 S. Center St. (Collierville). 853-6005; 2965 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 373-9111; 730 S. Mendenhall. 767-2323; 505 Highway 70 W., Mason, TN. 901-2942028. L, D, X, MRA, $ HAPPY MEXICAN—Serves quesadillas, burritos, chimichangas, vegetable and seafood dishes, and more. 385 S. Second. 529-9991; 6080 Primacy Pkwy. 683-0000; 7935 Winchester. 751-5353. L, D, X, $ HUEY’S—This family friendly restaurant offers 13 different burgers, a variety of sandwiches and delicious soups and salads. 1927 Madison. 726-4372; 1771 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 754-3885; 77 S. Second. 5272700; 2130 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-4455; 7090 Malco Blvd. (Southaven). 662-349-7097; 7825 Winchester. 624-8911; 4872 Poplar. 682-7729; 7677 Farmington Blvd. (Germantown). 3183030; 8570 Highway 51 N. (Millington). 873-5025. L, D, X, MRA, $ ITTA BENA—Southern and Cajun-American cuisine served here; specialties are duck and waffles and shrimp and grits, along with steaks, chops, seafood, and pasta. 145 Beale St. 578-3031. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$  KOOKY CANUCK—Offers prime rib, catfish, and burgers, including the 4-lb. “Kookamonga”; also late-night menu. 87 S. Second. 578-9800; 1250 N. Germantown Pkwy. 1-800-2453 L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$ THE LITTLE TEA SHOP—Downtown institution serves up Southern comfort cooking, including meatloaf and such veggies as turnip greens, yams, okra, and tomatoes. Closed Sat.-Sun. 69 Monroe. 525-6000, L, X, $ LOCAL—Entrees with a focus on locally sourced products include lobster mac-and-cheese and ribeye patty melt; menu differs by location. 95 S. Main. 473-9573; 2126 Madison. 7251845. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ LOFLIN YARD—Beer garden and restaurant serves vegetarian fare and smoked-meat dishes, including beef brisket and pork tenderloin, cooked on a custom-made grill. Closed Mon.-Tues. 7 W. Carolina. 249-3046. L (Sat. and Sun.), D, $-$$ THE LOOKOUT AT THE PYRAMID—Serves seafood and Southern fare, including cornmeal-fried oysters, sweet tea brined chicken, and elk chops. 1 Bass Pro Dr. 620-4600/2918200. L, D, X $-$$$ LUNA RESTAURANT & LOUNGE—Serving a limited menu of breakfast and lunch items. Dinner entrees include Citrus Glaze Salmon and Cajun Stuffed Chicken. 179 Madison (Hotel Napoleon). 526-0002. B, D (Mon.-Sat.), X, $-$$$ LYFE KITCHEN—Serving healthy, affordable wraps, bowls, sandwiches, and more; entrees include herb roasted salmon and parmesan crusted chicken. 272 S. Main. 526-0254. B, L, D, WB, X, $ MACIEL’S TORTAS & TACOS—Entrees include tortas, hefty Mexican sandwiches filled with choice of chicken, pork, or steak. Also serving fried taco plates, quesadillas, chorizo and pastor soft tacos, salads, and more. Closed Sun. 45 S. Main. 526-0037; 525 S. Highland. 504-4584. L, D, X, $ THE MAJESTIC GRILLE—Housed in a former silent-picture house, features aged steaks, fresh seafood, and such specialties as roasted chicken and grilled pork tenderloin; offers a pre-theatre menu and classic cocktails. Well-stocked bar. 145 S. Main. 522-8555. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ McEWEN’S ON MONROE—Southern/ American cuisine with international flavors; specialties include steak and seafood, sweet potato-crusted catfish with macaroni and cheese, and more. Closed Sun., Monroe location. 120 Monroe. 527-7085; 1110 Van Buren (Oxford). 662-234-7003. L, D, SB (Oxford only), X, MRA, $$-$$$ MESQUITE CHOP HOUSE—The focus here is on steaks, including prime fillet, rib eyes, and prime-aged New York strip; also, some seafood options. 5960 Getwell (Southaven). 662-890-2467; 88 Union. 527-5337; 3165 Forest Hill-Irene (Germantown). 249-5661. D, SB (Germantown), X, $$-$$$ M A Y 2 0 1 8 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 87

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CIT Y DINING LIST

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MOLLIE FONTAINE LOUNGE—Specializes in tapas (small plates) featuring global cuisine. Closed Sun.-Tues. 679 Adams Ave. 524-1886. D, X, MRA, $ OSHI ASIAN KITCHEN—Eatery offers Asian cuisine, including sushi and nigiri, with such entrees as Sticky Short Ribs, Wagyu Flank Steak and Quail Eggs, and Bi Bim Bap. 94 S. Main. 729-6972. L, D, X, $-$$ PAULETTE’S—Presents fine dining with a Continental flair, including such entrees as filet Paulette with butter cream sauce and crabmeat and spinach crepes; also changing daily specials and great views. River Inn. 50 Harbor Town Square. 260-3300. B, L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ PEARL’S OYSTER HOUSE—Downtown eatery serving seafood, including oysters, crawfish, and stuffed butterfly shrimp, as well as beef, chicken, and pasta dishes. 299 S. Main. 522-9070. L, D, SB, X, $-$$$ PONTOTOC—Upscale restaurant and jazz bar serves such starters as chicharone nachos and smoked trout deviled eggs; entrees include Mississippi pot roast with jalapeno cornbread and red fish with Israeli couscous. 314 S. Main. 207-7576. D, WB, X, $-$$ RENDEZVOUS, CHARLES VERGOS’— Menu items include barbecued ribs, cheese plates, skillet shrimp, red beans and rice, and Greek salads. Closed Sun.-Mon. 52 S. Second. 523-2746. L (Fri.-Sat.), D, X, $-$$ RIZZO’S DINER—Chorizo meatloaf, lobster pronto puff, and lamb belly tacos are menu items at this upscale diner. Michael Patrick among the city’s best chefs. 492 S. Main. 304-6985. L (Fri.-Sat.), D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ SABOR CARIBE—Serving up “Caribbean flavors” with dishes from Colombia, Venezuela, Puerto Rico, and Cuba. Closed Sunday. 662 Madison. 949-8100. L, D, X, $ SOUTH MAIN MARKET—Food Hall featuring a variety of vendors serving everything from bagels and beer to comfort food and healthy cuisine. 409 S. Main. 341-3838. $-$$ SOUTH MAIN SUSHI & GRILL—Serving sushi, nigiri, and more. 520 S. Main. 249-2194. L, D, X, $ SPINDINI—Italian fusion cuisine with such entrees as wood-fired pizzas, gorgonzola stuffed filet, and fresh seafood; large domestic whiskey selection. 383 S. Main. 578-2767. D, X, $$-$$$ SUNRISE MEMPHIS—From owners of Sweet Grass and Central BBQ. Serves breakfast all day, including house-made biscuits, frittatas, kielbasa or boudin plates, and breakfast platters. 670 Jefferson. 552-3144. B, L, X, $ TERRACE—Creative American and Continental cuisine includes such dishes as filet mignon, beef or lamb sliders, chicken satay, and mushroom pizzetta. Rooftop, River Inn of Harbor Town, 50 Harbor Town Square. 260-3366. D, X, MRA, $$ TEXAS DE BRAZIL—Serves beef, pork, lamb, and chicken dishes, and Brazilian sausage; also a salad bar with extensive toppings. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 103. 526-7600. L (Wed.-Fri.), D, SB, X, $$-$$$ UNCLE BUCK’S FISHBOWL & GRILL—Burgers, pizza, fish dishes, sandwiches, and more served in a unique “underwater” setting. Bass Pro, Bass Pro Drive, 291-8200. B, L, D, X, $-$$ THE VAULT—Shrimp beignets, stuffed cornish hen, and bacon-wrapped chicken roulade are among the dishes offered at this Creole/Italian fusion eatery. 124 G.E. Patterson. 591-8000. L, D, SB, X, $-$$

COLLIERVILLE 148 NORTH—French cuisine meets Southern comfort food here with menu items such as chicken and waffles, duck confit, and JKE’s Knuckle Sandwich, made with lobster knuckle and puff pastry. 148 N. Main. 569-0761. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ CAFE PIAZZA BY PAT LUCCHESI—Specializes in gourmet pizzas (including create-your-own), panini

CIT Y DINING LIST sandwiches, and pasta. Closed Sun. 139 S. Rowlett St. 861-1999. L, D, X, $-$$ CIAO BABY—Specializing in Neapolitan-style pizza made in a wood-fired oven. Also serves house-made mozzarella, pasta, appetizers, and salads. 890 W. Poplar, Suite 1. 457-7457. L, D, X, $ EL MEZCAL—Serves burritos, chimichangas, fajitas, and other Mexican cuisine, as well as shrimp dinners and steak. 9947 Wolf River, 853-7922; 402 Perkins Extd. 761-7710; 694 N.Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 755-1447; 1492 Union. 274-4264; 11615 Airline Rd. (Arlington). 867-1883; 9045 Highway 64 (Lakeland). 383-4219; 7164 Hacks Cross Rd. (Olive Branch). 662-890-3337; 8834 Hwy. 51 N. (Millington). 872-3220; 7424 Highway 64 (Bartlett). 417-6026. L, D, X, $ EMERALD THAI RESTAURANT—Spicy shrimp, pad khing, lemongrass chicken, and several noodle, rice, and vegetarian dishes are offered at this family restaurant. Closed Sunday. 8950 Highway 64 (Lakeland, TN). 384-0540. L, D X, $-$$ FIREBIRDS—Specialties are hand-cut steaks, slow-roasted prime rib, and wood-grilled salmon and other seafood, as well as seasonal entrees. 4600 Merchants Circle, Carriage Crossing. 850-1637; 8470 Highway 64 (Bartlett). 379-1300. L, D, X, $-$$$ RONNIE GRISANTI’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT— This Memphis institution serves family classics such as Elfo’s Special and chicken ravioli, along with lighter fare and changing daily chef selection. Closed Sun. Sheffield Antiques Mall, 684 W. Poplar. 850-0191. L (Mon.-Sat.), D (Thurs.-Sat.), X, $-$$$ JIM’S PLACE GRILLE—Features American, Greek, and Continental cuisine with such entrees as pork tenderloin, several seafood specialties, and hand-cut charcoal-grilled steaks. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 3660 Houston Levee. 861-5000. L, D, X, $-$$$ MULAN ASIAN BISTRO—Hunan Chicken, tofu dishes, and orange beef served here; some sushi, too. 2059 Houston Levee. 850-5288; 2149 Young. 347-3965; 4698 Spottswood. 609-8680. L, D, X, $-$$ OSAKA JAPANESE CUISINE—Featuring an extensive sushi menu as well as traditional Japanese and hibachi dining. Hours vary for lunch; call. 3670 Houston Levee. 861-4309; 3402 Poplar. 249-4690; 7164 Hacks Cross (Olive Branch). 662-8909312; 2200 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 425-4901. L, D, X, $-$$$ THE SEAR SHACK BURGERS & FRIES— Serving Angus burgers, fries, and hand-spun milkshakes. Closed Mon. 875 W. Poplar, Suite 6. 861-4100; 5101 Sanderlin, Suite 103. 567-4909. L, D, X, $ STIX—Hibachi steakhouse with Asian cuisine features steak, chicken, and a fillet and lobster combination, also sushi. A specialty is Dynamite Chicken with fried rice. 4680 Merchants Park Circle, Avenue Carriage Crossing. 854-3399. L, D, X, $-$$

CORDOVA BOMBAY HOUSE—Indian fare includes lamb korma and chicken tikka; also, a daily luncheon buffet. 1727 N. Germantown Pkwy. 755-4114. L, D, X, $-$$ THE BUTCHER SHOP—Serves steaks ranging from 8-oz. fillets to a 20-oz. porterhouse; also chicken, pork chops, fresh seafood. 107 S. Germantown Rd. 757-4244. L (Fri. and Sun.), D, X, $$-$$$ FOX RIDGE PIZZA—Pizzas, calzones, sub sandwiches, burgers, and meat-and-two plate lunches are among the dishes served at this eatery, which opened in 1979. 1769 N. Germantown Pkwy. 758-6500. L, D, X, $ G. ALSTON—Food Network Star finalist and owner Chef Aryen Moore-Alston serves New Southern cuisine at this fine dining establishment. Shrimp beignets are among the appetizers, and entrees include Sous Vide Rosemary Lavender Lamb and Sauteed Scottish Salmon. 8556 Macon. 748-5583. Closed Mon. D, SB, X, $$-$$$ GREEN BAMBOO—Pineapple tilapia, pork vermicelli, and the soft egg noodle combo are Vietnamese specialties here. 990 N. Germantown Parkway, #104. 753-5488. L, D, $-$$ KING JERRY LAWLER’S MEMPHIS BBQ COMPANY—Offers a variety of barbecue dishes, including

brisket, ribs, nachos topped with smoked pork, and a selection of barbecue “Slamwiches.” 465 N. Germantown Pkwy., #116. 509-2360. L, D, X, $ JIM ’N NICK’S BAR-B-Q—Serves barbecued pork, ribs, chicken, brisket, and fish, along with other homemade Southern specialties. 2359 N. Germantown Pkwy. 388-0998. L, D, X, $-$$ MISTER B’S—Features New Orleans-style seafood and steaks. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. and Mon. 6655 Poplar, #107. 751-5262. L, D, X, $-$$$ PRESENTATION ROOM, THE—American bistro run by the students of L’Ecole Culinaire. Menu changes regularly; specialties may include such items as a filet with truffle mushroom ragu. Service times vary; call for details. Closed Fri.-Sun. 1245 N. Germantown Pkwy. 754-7115. L, D, X, $-$$ SHOGUN JAPANESE RESTAURANT—Entrees include tempura, teriyaki, and sushi, as well as grilled fish and chicken entrees. 2324 N. Germantown Pkwy. 384-4122. L, D, X, $-$$ TANNOOR GRILL—Brazilian-style steakhouse with skewers served tableside, along with Middle Eastern specialties; vegetarian options also available. 830 N. Germantown Pkwy. 443-5222. L, D, X, $-$$$

EAST MEMPHIS

(INCLUDES POPLAR/ I-240) ACRE—Features seasonal modern American cuisine in an avante-garde setting using locally sourced products; also small-plates and iconic bar. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 690 S. Perkins. 818-2273. L, D, X, $$-$$$ AGAVOS COCINA & TEQUILA—Camaron de Tequila, tamales, kabobs, and burgers made with a blend of beef and chorizo are among the offerings at this tequila-centric restaurant and bar. 2924 Walnut Grove. 433-9345. L, D, X, $-$$ AMERIGO—Traditional and contemporary Italian cuisine includes pasta, wood-fired pizza, steaks, and cedarwood-roasted fish. 1239 Ridgeway, Park Place Mall. 761-4000. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ ANDREW MICHAEL ITALIAN KITCHEN— Traditional Italian cuisine with a menu from two of the city’s top chefs that changes seasonally with such entrees as Maw Maw’s ravioli. Closed Sun.-Mon. 712 W. Brookhaven Cl. 347-3569. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ ANOTHER BROKEN EGG CAFE—Offering several varieties of eggs benedict, waffles, omelets, pancakes, beignets, and other breakfast fare; also burgers, sandwiches, and salads. 6063 Park Ave. 729-7020; 65 S. Highland. 623-7122. B, L, WB, X, $ BENIHANA—This Japanese steakhouse serves beef, chicken, and seafood grilled at the table; some menu items change monthly; sushi bar also featured. 912 Ridge Lake. 767-8980. L, D, X, $$-$$$ BLUE PLATE CAFÉ — For breakfast, the café’s serves old-fashioned buttermilk pancakes (it’s a secret recipe!), country ham and eggs, and waffles with fresh strawberries and cream. For lunch, the café specializes in country cooking. 5469 Poplar. 761-9696; 113 S. Court. 523-2050. B, L, X, $ BRYANT’S BREAKFAST—Three-egg omelets, pancakes, and The Sampler Platter are among the popular entrees here. Possible the best biscuits in town. Closed Mon. and Tues. 3965 Summer. 324-7494. B, L, X, $ BUCKLEY’S FINE FILET GRILL—Specializes in steaks, seafood, and pasta. (Lunchbox serves entree salads, burgers, and more.) 5355 Poplar. 683-4538; 919 S. Yates (Buckley’s Lunchbox), 682-0570. L (Yates only, M-F), D, X, $-$$ BUNTYN CORNER CAFE—Serving favorites from Buntyn Restaurant, including chicken and dressing, cobbler, and yeast rolls. 5050 Poplar, Suite 107. 424-3286. B, L, X, $ CAPITAL GRILLE—Known for its dry-aged, hand-carved steaks; among the specialties are bone-in sirloin, and porcini-rubbed Delmonico; also seafood entrees and seasonal lunch plates. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. Crescent Center, 6065 Poplar. 683-9291. L, D, X, $$$-$$$$ CASABLANCA—Lamb shawarma is one of the fresh, homemade specialties served at this Mediterranean/Moroccan restaurant; fish entrees and vegetarian options also available.

1707 Madison. 421-6949; 5030 Poplar. 725-8557 ; 7609 Poplar Pike (Germantown). 425-5908. L, D, X, $-$$ CIAO BELLA—Among the Italian and Greek specialties are lasagna, seafood pasta, gourmet pizzas, and vegetarian options. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 565 Erin Dr., Erin Way Shopping Center. 205-2500. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$ CITY SILO TABLE + PANTRY—With a focus on clean eating, this establishment offers fresh juices, as well as comfort foods re-imagined with wholesome ingredients. 5101 Sanderlin. 729-7687. B, L, D, X, $ CORKY’S—Popular barbecue emporium offers both wet and dry ribs, plus a full menu of other barbecue entrees. Wed. lunch buffets, Cordova and Collierville. 5259 Poplar. 685-9744; 1740 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 737-1911; 743 W. Poplar (Collierville). 405-4999; 6434 Goodman Rd., Olive Branch. 662-893-3663. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ ERLING JENSEN—For over 20 years, has presented “globally inspired” cuisine to die for. Specialties are rack of lamb, big game entrees, and fresh fish dishes. 1044 S. Yates. 763-3700. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE—Serves wetaged and dry-aged steaks, prime beef, chops, and seafood, including salmon, Australian lobster tails, and a catch of the day. 6245 Poplar. 761-6200. D, X, MRA, $$$-$$$$ FOLK’S FOLLY ORIGINAL PRIME STEAK HOUSE—Specializes in prime steaks, as well as lobster, grilled Scottish salmon, Alaskan king crab legs, rack of lamb, and weekly specials. Now celebrating their 40th year. 551 S. Mendenhall. 762-8200. D, X, MRA, $$$-$$$$ FORMOSA—Offers Mandarin cuisine, including broccoli beef, hot-and-sour soup, and spring rolls. Closed Monday. 6685 Quince. 753-9898. L, D, X, $-$$ FRATELLI’S—Serves hot and cold sandwiches, salads, soups, and desserts, all with an Italian/Mediterranean flair. Closed Sunday. 750 Cherry Rd., Memphis Botanic Garden. 766-9900. L, X, $ FRANK GRISANTI’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT— Northern Italian favorites include pasta with jumbo shrimp and mushrooms; also seafood, fillet mignon, and daily lunch specials. Closed for lunch Sunday. Embassy Suites Hotel, 1022 S. Shady Grove. 761-9462. L, D, X, $-$$$ THE GROVE GRILL—Offers steaks, chops, seafood, and other American cuisine with Southern and global influences; entrees include crab cakes, and shrimp and grits, also dinner specials. Founder Jeff Dunham’s son Chip is now chef de cuisine. 4550 Poplar. 8189951. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $$-$$$ HALF SHELL—Specializes in seafood, such as King crab legs; also serves steaks, chicken, pastas, salads, sandwiches, a ”voodoo menu”; oyster bar at Winchester location. 688 S. Mendenhall. 682-3966; 7825 Winchester. 737-6755. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ HIGH POINT PIZZA—Serves variety of pizzas, subs, salads, and sides. Closed Monday. A neighborhood fixture. 477 High Point Terrace. 452-3339. L, D, X, $-$$ HOG & HOMINY—The casual sister to Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen serves brick-oven-baked pizzas, including the Red-Eye with pork belly, and small plates with everything from meatballs to beef and cheddar hot dogs; and local veggies. Closed for lunch Mon. 707 W. Brookhaven Cl. 207-7396. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ HOUSTON’S—Serves steaks, seafood, pork chops, chicken dishes, sandwiches, salads, and Chicago-style spinach dip. Farmous for first-class service. 5000 Poplar. 683-0915. L, D, X $-$$$ INTERIM—Offers American-seasonal cuisine with emphasis on local foods and fresh fish; daily chef specials. Closed for lunch Sat. 5040 Sanderlin, Suite 105. 818-0821. L, D, SB, X, $-$$$ THE KITCHEN BISTRO—Tomato soup, pan-roasted ribeye, sticky toffee pudding, and dishes made using in-season fruits and veggies are served at this establishment at Shelby Farms Park. 415 Great View Drive E., Suite 101. 7299009. L, D, X, $-$$

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CIT Y DINING LIST LA BAGUETTE—An almond croissant and chicken salad are among specialties at this French-style bistro. Closed for dinner Sun. 3088 Poplar. 458-0900. B, L, D (closes at 7), X, MRA, $ LAS DELICIAS—Popular for its guacamole, house-made tortilla chips, and margaritas, this restaurant draws diners with its chicken enchiladas, meat-stuffed flautas, and Cuban torta with spicy pork. Closed Sunday. 4002 Park Ave. 458-9264; 5689 Quince. 800-2873. L, D, X, $ LIBRO AT LAURELWOOD—Bookstore eatery features a variety of sandwiches, salads, and homemade pasta dishes, with Italian-inspired options such as carbonara and potato gnocchi. Closed for dinner Sun. 387 Perkins Ext. (Novel). 800-2656. B, L, D, SB, X, $-$$ LISA’S LUNCHBOX—Serving bagels, sandwiches, salads, and wraps. 5030 Poplar, 761-4044; 5885 Ridgeway Center Pkwy., Suite 101. 767-6465; 2659 Thousand Oaks Blvd., Suite 1200; 2525 Central (Children’s Museum); 166 S. Front. 729-7277. B, L, $ LOST PIZZA—Offering pizzas (with dough made from scratch), pasta, salads, sandwiches, tamales, and more. 2855 Poplar. 5721803; 5960 Getwell (Southaven). 662-892-8684. L, D, X, $-$$ LYNCHBURG LEGENDS—This restaurant with a Jack Daniels’ theme and Southern cuisine serves such entrees as Bourbon Street salmon, buttermilk-fried chicken, and grilled steak and wild mushroom salad. DoubleTree Hotel, 5069 Sanderlin. 969-7777. B, L, D, X, $- $$$ MARCIANO MEDITERRANEAN AND ITALIAN CUISINE—Veal Saltimbocca with angel hair pasta and white wine sauce is among the entrees; also steaks, seafood, and gourmet pizza. Closed Sun. 780 Brookhaven Cl. 682-1660. D, X, $-$$  DAN MCGUINNESS PUB—Serves fish and chips, shepherd’s pie, burgers, and other Irish and American fare; also lunch and dinner specials. 4694 Spottswood. 761-3711; 3964 Goodman Rd. 662-890-7611. L, D, X, $ MAYURI INDIAN CUISINE—Serves tandoori chicken, masala dosa, tikka masala, as well as lamb and shrimp entrees; also a daily lunch buffet, and dinner buffet on Fri.-Sat. 6524 Quince Rd. 753-8755. L, D, X, $-$$ MELLOW MUSHROOM—Large menu includes assortment of pizzas, salads, calzones, hoagies, vegetarian options, and 50 beers on tap. 5138 Park Ave. 562-12119155 Poplar; Shops of Forest Hill (Germantown). 907-0243. L, D, X, $-$$ MOSA ASIAN BISTRO—Specialties include sesame chicken, Thai calamari, rainbow panang curry with grouper fish, and other Pan Asian/fusion entrees. Closed Mon. 850 S. White Station Rd. 683-8889. L, D, X, MRA, $ NAM KING—Offers luncheon and dinner buffets, dim sum, and such specialties as fried dumplings, pepper steak, and orange chicken. 4594 Yale. 373-4411. L, D, X, $  NAPA CAFE—Among the specialties is miso-marinated salmon over black rice with garlic spinach and shiitake mushrooms. Closed Sun. 5101 Sanderlin, Suite 122. 683-0441. L, D, X, $$-$$$ NEW HUNAN—Chinese eatery with more than 80 entrees; also lunch/dinner buffets. 5052 Park. 766-1622. L, D, X, $ OLD VENICE PIZZA CO.—Specializes in “eclectic Italian,” from pastas, including the “Godfather,” to hand-tossed pizzas, including the “John Wayne”; choose from 60 toppings. 368 Perkins Ext. 767-6872. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ ONE & ONLY BBQ—On the menu are pork barbecue sandwiches, platters, wet and dry ribs, smoked chicken and turkey platters, a smoked meat salad, barbecue quesadillas, and more. New on the BBQ scene, but worth a visit. 1779 Kirby Pkwy. 751-3615; 567 Perkins Extd. 249-4227. L, D, X, $ ONO POKÉ—This eatery specializes in poké — a Hawaiian dish of fresh fish salad served over rice. Menu includes a variety of poké bowls, like the Kimchi Tuna bowl, or customers can build their own by choosing a base, protein, veggies, and toppings. 3145 Poplar. 618-2955. L, D, X, $ OWEN BRENNAN’S—New Orleans-style menu of beef, chicken, pasta, and seafood; jambalaya, shrimp and grits, and crawfish etouffee are specialties. Closed for dinner Sunday. The Regalia, 6150 Poplar. 761-0990. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ PARK + CHERRY—Partnering with CFY Catering, the Dixon offers casual dining within the museum. Menu features sandwiches, like truffled pimento cheese, as well as salads, snacks, and sweets. Closed for breakfast Sun. and all day Mon. 4339 Park (Dixon Gallery). 761-5250. L, X, $ 90 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • M A Y 2 0 1 8

CIT Y DINING LIST PETE & SAM’S—Serving Memphis for 60-plus years; offers steaks, seafood, and traditional Italian dishes, including homemade ravioli, lasagna, and chicken marsala. 3886 Park. 458-0694. D, X, $-$$$ PF CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO—Specialties are orange peel shrimp, Mongolian beef, and chicken in lettuce wraps; also vegetarian dishes, including spicy eggplant. 1181 Ridgeway Rd., Park Place Centre. 818-3889. L, D, X, $-$$ PHO SAIGON—Vietnamese fare includes beef teriyaki, roasted quail, curry ginger chicken, vegetarian options, and a variety of soups. 2946 Poplar. 458-1644. L, D, $ PORCELLINO’S CRAFT BUTCHER—Small plates, charcuterie selections, specialty steaks, house-made pastries, and innovative teas and coffees are offered at this combination butcher shop and restaurant featuring locally sourced menu items. Restaurant open for breakfast and lunch. Butcher shop open until 6 p.m. 711 W. Brookhaven Cl. 762-6656. B, L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ PYRO’S FIRE-FRESH PIZZA—Serving gourmet pizzas cooked in an open-fire oven; wide choice of toppings; large local and craft beer selection. 1199 Ridgeway. 379-8294; 2035 Union Ave. 208-8857; 2286 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 207-1198; 3592 S. Houston Levee (Collierville). 221-8109. L, D, X, $ RIVER OAKS—Chef Jose Gutierrez’s French-style bistro serves seafood and steaks, with an emphasis on fresh local ingredients. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 5871 Poplar Ave. 683-9305. L, D, X, $$$ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE—Offers prime steaks cut and aged in-house, as well as lamb, chicken, and fresh seafood, including lobster. 6120 Poplar. 761-0055. D, X, $$$-$$$$ SALSA—Mexican-Southern California specialties include carnitas, enchiladas verde, and fajitas; also Southwestern seafood dishes such as snapper verde. Closed Sun. Regalia Shopping Center, 6150 Poplar, Suite 129. 683-6325. L, D, X, $-$$ SEASONS 52—This elegant fresh grill and wine bar offers a seasonally changing menu using fresh ingredients, wood-fire grilling, and brick-oven cooking; also a large international wine list and nightly piano bar. Crescent Center, 6085 Poplar. 682-9952. L, D, X, $$-$$$ STAKS— Offering pancakes, including Birthday Cake and lemon ricotta. Menu includes other breakfast items such as beignets and French toast, as well as soups and sandwiches for lunch. 4615 Poplar. 509-2367. B, L, WB, X, $ SUSHI JIMMI—This food truck turned restaurant serves a variety of sushi rolls, fusion dishes — such as kimchi fries — and sushi burritos. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Mon. 2895 Poplar. 729-6985. L, D, X, $ TENNESSEE TACO CO.—From the creators of Belly Acres, offers such appetizers as crawfish and chorizo mac-n-cheese and homemade guacamole and specializes in street tacos. 3295 Poplar. 207-1960. L, D, X, $ THREE LITTLE PIGS—Pork-shoulder-style barbecue with tangy mild or hot sauce, freshly made coleslaw, and baked beans. 5145 Quince Rd. 685-7094. B, L, D, X, $ TOPS BAR-B-Q—Specializes in pork barbecue sandwiches and sandwich plates with beans and slaw; also serves ribs, beef brisket, and burgers. 1286 Union. 725-7527. 4183 Summer. 324-4325; 5391 Winchester. 794-7936; 3970 Rhodes. 323-9865; 6130 Macon. 371-0580. For more locations, go online. L, D, X, $ WANG’S MANDARIN HOUSE—Offers Mandarin, Cantonese, Szechuan, and spicy Hunan entrees, including the golden-sesame chicken; next door is East Tapas, serving small plates with an Asian twist. 6065 Park Ave., Park Place Mall. 763-0676. L, D, X, $-$$ WASABI—Serving traditional Japanese offerings, hibachi, sashimi, and sushi. The Sweet Heart roll, wrapped — in the shape of a heart — with tuna and filled with spicy salmon, yellowtail, and avocado, is a specialty. 5101 Sanderlin Rd., Suite 105. 421-6399. L, D, X, $-$$ WOMAN’S EXCHANGE TEA ROOM—Chicken-salad plate, beef tenderloin, soups-and-sandwiches, and vegetable plates are specialties; meal includes drink and dessert. Closed Sat.-Sun. 88 Racine. 327-5681. L, X, $

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CIT Y DINING LIST ZAKA BOWL—This vegan-friendly restaurant serves buildyour-own vegetable bowls featuring ingredients such as agave Brussels sprouts and roasted beets. Also serves tuna poke and herbed chicken bowls. 575 Erin. 509-3105. L, D, $

GERMANTOWN BLUE HONEY BISTRO—Entrees at this upscale eatery include brown butter scallops served with Mississippi blue rice and herb-crusted beef tenderloin with vegetables and truffle butter. Closed Sun. 9155 Poplar, Suite 17. 552-3041. D, X, $-$$$ BROOKLYN BRIDGE ITALIAN RESTAURANT— Specializing in such homemade entrees as spinach lasagna and lobster ravioli; a seafood specialty is horseradish-crusted salmon. Closed Sun. 1779 Kirby Pkwy. 755-7413. D, X, $-$$$ FOREST HILL GRILL—A variety of standard pub fare and a selection of mac ‘n’ cheese dishes are featured on the menu. Specialties include Chicken Newport and a barbecue salmon BLT. 9102 Poplar Pike. 624-6001. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ GERMANTOWN COMMISSARY—Serves barbecue sandwiches, sliders, ribs, shrimp, and nachos, as well as smoked barbecued bologna sandwiches; Mon.-night all-youcan-eat ribs. 2290 S. Germantown Rd. S. 754-5540. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ LAS TORTUGAS DELI MEXICANA— Authentic Mexican food prepared from local food sources; specializes in tortugas — grilled bread scooped out to hold such powerfully popular fillings as brisket, pork, and shrimp; also tingas, tostados. Closed Sunday. 1215 S. Germantown Rd. 751-1200; 6300 Poplar. 623-3882. L, D, X, $-$$ MISTER B’S—Features New Orleans-style seafood and steaks. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. and Mon. 6655 Poplar, #107. 751-5262. L, D, X, $-$$$ THE PASTA MAKER RESTAURANT—This Italian eatery specializes in artisanal pasta. Entrées include Spaghetti allo scoglio, Penne Boscaiola, and Fusilli Primavera. Gluten-free options available. Restaurant closed Mon. and Sun. (cooking classes by reservation Sun.). 2095 Exeter, Suite 30. 779-3928. L (Thurs. only), D, X, $-$$ PETRA CAFÉ—Serves Greek, Italian, and Middle Eastern sandwiches, gyros, and entrees. Hours vary; call. 6641 Poplar. 754-4440; 547 S. Highland. 323-3050. L, D, X, $-$$ PIZZA REV—Specializes in build-your-own, personal-sized artisanal pizza. Choose from homemade dough options, all-natural sauces, Italian cheeses, and more than 30 toppings. 6450 Poplar. 379-8188. L, D, X, MRA, $ RED KOI—Classic Japanese cuisine offered at this family-run restaurant; hibachi steaks, sushi, seafood, chicken, and vegetables. 5847 Poplar. 767-3456. L, D, X $-$$ ROYAL PANDA—Hunan fish, Peking duck, Royal Panda chicken and shrimp, and a seafood combo are among the specialties. 3120 Village Shops Dr. 756-9697. L, D, X, $-$$ RUSSO’S NEW YORK PIZZERIA AND WINE BAR—Serves gourmet pizzas, calzones, and pasta, including lasagna, fettuccine Alfredo, scampi, and more. 9087 Poplar, Suite 111. 755-0092. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ SAKURA—Sushi, tempura, and teriyaki are Japanese specialties here. 2060 West St. 758-8181; 4840 Poplar. 572-1002. L, D, X, $-$$ SOUTHERN SOCIAL—Shrimp and grits, stuffed quail, and Aunt Thelma’s Fried Chicken are among the dishes served at this upscale Southern establishment. 2285 S. Germantown Rd. 754-5555. D, SB, X, $-$$$ WEST STREET DINER—This home-style eatery offers breakfast, burgers, po’boys, and more. 2076 West St. 757-2191. B, L, D (Mon.-Fri.), X, $

MIDTOWN (INCLUDES THE MEDICAL CENTER) ABYSSINIA RESTAURANT—Ethiopian/Mediterranean menu includes beef, chicken, lamb, fish entrees, and vegetarian dishes; also a lunch buffet. 2600 Poplar. 321-0082. L, D, X, $-$$

ALCHEMY—Southern fusion, locally grown cuisine features small and large plates; among the offerings are pan-seared hanger steak, quail, and lamb chops; also handcrafted cocktails and local craft beers. 940 S. Cooper. 726-4444. D, SB, X, $-$$ ATOMIC TIKI—Island-inspired dishes such as barbecue nachos with pineapple mango relish, Polynesian meatballs, and shrimp roll sliders are served in a tiki bar atmosphere. Closed Mon. 1545 Overton Park. 279-3935. D, $ BABALU TACOS & TAPAS—This Overton Square eatery dishes up Spanish-style tapas with Southern flair; also taco and enchilada of the day; specials change daily. 2115 Madison. 274-0100; 6450 Poplar, 410-8909. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ BAR DKDC—Features an ever-changing menu of international “street food,” from Thai to Mexican, Israeli to Indian, along with specialty cocktails. 964 S. Cooper. 272-0830. D, X, MRA, $ BAR-B-Q SHOP—Dishes up barbecued ribs, spaghetti, bologna; also pulled pork shoulder, Texas toast barbecue sandwich, chicken sandwich, and salads. Closed Sun. 1782 Madison. 272-1277. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ BARI RISTORANTE ENOTECA—Authentic Southeastern Italian cuisine (Puglia) emphasizes lighter entrees. Serves fresh fish and beef dishes and a homemade soup of the day. 22 S. Cooper. 722-2244. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ BARKSDALE RESTAURANT—Old-school diner serving breakfast and Southern plate lunches. 237 Cooper. 722-2193. B, L, D, X, $ BAYOU BAR & GRILL—New Orleans fare at this Overton Square eatery includes jambalaya, gumbo, catfish Acadian, shrimp dishes, red beans and rice, and muffalettas. 2094 Madison. 278-8626. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ BEAUTY SHOP—Modern American cuisine with international flair served in a former beauty shop. Serves steaks salads, pasta, and seafood, including pecan-crusted golden sea bass. Perennial “Best Brunch” winner. Closed for dinner Sunday. 966 S. Cooper. 272-7111. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ BELLY ACRES—At this festive Overton Square eatery, milkshakes, floats, and burgers rule. Burgers are updated with contemporary toppings like grilled leeks, braised tomatoes, and sourdough or brioche buns. 2102 Trimble Pl. 529-7017. L, D, X, $ BHAN THAI—Authentic Thai cuisine includes curries, pad Thai noodles, and vegetarian dishes, as well as seafood, pork, and duck entrees. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. and all day Mon. 1324 Peabody. 272-1538. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ BLUE NILE ETHIOPIAN—Kabobs, flavorful chicken and lamb stew, and injera (flatbread) are traditional items on the menu, along with vegetarian options. 1788 Madison. 474-7214. L, D, X, $-$$ BOSCOS—Tennessee’s first craft brewery serves a variety of freshly brewed beers as well as wood-fired oven pizzas, pasta, seafood, steaks, and sandwiches. 2120 Madison. 432-2222. L, D, SB (with live jazz), X, MRA, $-$$ BOUNTY ON BROAD—Offering family-style dining, Bounty serves small plates and family-sized platters, with such specialties as chicken fried quail and braised pork shank. 2519 Broad. 410-8131. L (Sat. and Sun.), D (Mon.-Sat.), SB, X, $-$$$ BROADWAY PIZZA—Serving a variety of pizzas, including the Broadway Special, as well as sandwiches, salads, wings, and soul-food specials. 2581 Broad. 454-7930; 627 S. Mendenhall. 207-1546. L, D, X, $-$$ CAFE 1912—French/American bistro owned by culinary pioneer Glenn Hays serving such seafood entrees as grouper and steamed mussels; also crepes, salads, and French onion soup. 243 S. Cooper. 722-2700. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ CAFE BROOKS BY PARADOX—Serving grab-and-go pastries, as well as lunch items. Menu includes soups, salads, and sandwiches, such as the Modern Reuben and Grown Up Grilled Cheese. 1934 Poplar (Memphis Brooks Museum of Art). 544-6200. B, L, X, $

CAFE ECLECTIC—Omelets and chicken and waffles are among menu items, along with quesadillas, sandwiches, wraps, and burgers. Menu varies by location. 603 N. McLean. 725-1718; 111 Harbor Town Square. 590-4645; 510 S. Highland. 410-0765. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $ CAFE OLE—This eatery specializes in authentic Mexican cuisine; one specialty is the build-your-own quesadilla. 959 S. Cooper. 343-0103. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ CAFE PALLADIO—Serves gourmet salads, soups, sandwiches, and desserts in a tea room inside the antiques shop. Closed Sun. 2169 Central. 278-0129. L, X, $ CAFE SOCIETY—With Belgian and classic French influences, serves Wagyu beef, chicken, and seafood dishes, including bacon-wrapped shrimp, along with daily specials and vegetarian entrees. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 212 N. Evergreen. 722-2177. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ CELTIC CROSSING—Specializes in Irish and American pub fare. Entrees include shepherd’s pie, shrimp and sausage coddle, and fish and chips. 903 S. Cooper. 274-5151. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ CENTRAL BBQ—Serves ribs, smoked hot wings, pulled pork sandwiches, chicken, turkey, nachos, and portobello sandwiches. Offers both pork and beef barbecue. 2249 Central Ave. 272-9377; 4375 Summer Ave. 7674672; 147 E. Butler. 672-7760. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ CHEF TAM’S UNDERGROUND CAFE—Serves Southern staples with a Cajun twist. Menu items include totchos, jerk wings, fried chicken, and “muddy” mac and cheese. Closed Sun. and Mon. 2299 Young. 207-6182. L, D, $ THE COVE—Nautical-themed restaurant and bar serving oysters, pizzas, and more. The Stoner Pie, with tamales and fritos, is a popular dish. 2559 Broad. 730-0719. L, D, $ THE CRAZY NOODLE—Korean noodle dishes range from bibam beef noodle with cabbage, carrots, and other vegetables, to curry chicken noodle; also rice cakes served in a flavorful sauce. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 2015 Madison. 272-0928. L, D, X, $ ECCO—Mediterranean-inspired specialties range from rib-eye steak to seared scallops to housemade pastas and a grilled vegetable plate; also a Saturday brunch. Closed Sun.-Mon. 1585 Overton Park. 410-8200. L, D, X, $-$$ FARM BURGER—Serves grass-fed, freshly ground, locally sourced burgers; also available with chicken, pork, or veggie quinoa patties, with such toppings as aged white cheddar, kale coleslaw, and roasted beets. 1350 Concourse Avenue #175. 800-1851. L, D, X, $ FRIDA’S—Mexican cuisine and Tex-Mex standards, including chimichangas, enchiladas, and fajitas; seafood includes shrimp and tilapia. 1718 Madison. 244-6196. L, D, X, $-$$ FUEL CAFE—Focus is on natural dishes and pizzas, with such options as vegetarian “anchovy” and vegan carrot Hawaiian. Closed Sun.-Mon. 1761 Madison. 725-9025. L, D, X, $-$$ GOLDEN INDIA—Northern Indian specialties include tandoori chicken as well as lamb, beef, shrimp, and vegetarian dishes. 2097 Madison. 728-5111. L, D, X, $-$$ GROWLERS—Sports bar and eatery serves standard bar fare in addition to a pasta, tacos, chicken and waffles, and light options. 1911 Poplar. 244-7904. L, D, X, $-$$ HM DESSERT LOUNGE—Serving cake, pie, and other desserts, as well as a selection of savory dishes, including meatloaf and mashed potato “cupcakes.” Closed Monday. 1586 Madison. 290-2099. L, D, X, $ HOPDODDY BURGER BAR—Focus is on locally sourced ingredients, with freshly baked buns and meat butchered and ground in-house. Patty options include Angus or Kobe beef, bison, chicken, and more; also vegetarian/ vegan. 6 Cooper. 654-5100. L, D, X, $ IMAGINE VEGAN CAFE—Dishes at this fully vegan restaurant range from salads and sandwiches to full dinners, including eggplant parmesan and “beef” tips and rice; breakfast all day Sat. and Sun. 2158 Young. 654-3455. L, D, WB, X, $ INDIAN PASS RAW BAR—Focus is on fresh Florida Gulf Coast seafood, including raw, Cajun, and

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CIT Y DINING LIST char-grilled three-cheese jalapeno oysters, shrimp, and crab legs. 2059 Madison. 207-7397. L, D, X, $-$$ INDIA PALACE—Tandoori chicken, lamb shish kabobs, and chicken tikka masala are among the entrees; also, vegetarian options and a daily all-youcan-eat lunch buffet. 1720 Poplar. 278-1199. L, D, X, $-$$ JASMINE THAI AND VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT—Entrees include panang chicken, green curry shrimp, and pad thai (noodles, shrimp, and peanuts); also vegetarian dishes. Closed Mon.-Tues. 916 S. Cooper. 725-0223. L, D, X, $ LAFAYETTE’S MUSIC ROOM—Serves such Southern cuisine as po boys and shrimp and grits, and wood-fired pizzas. 2119 Madison. 207-5097. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ LBOE—Gourmet burger joint serves locally sourced ground beef burgers, with options like the Mac-N-Cheese Burger and Caprese. Black bean and turkey patties available. 2021 Madison. 725-0770. L, D, X, $ THE LIQUOR STORE—Renovated liquor store turned diner serves all-day breakfast, sandwiches, and entrees such as Salisbury steak and smothered pork chops. Closed for dinner Sun.-Mon. 2655 Broad. 4055477. B, L, D, X, $-$$ LITTLE ITALY—Serving New York-style pizza as well as subs and pasta dishes. 1495 Union. 725-0280, L, D, X, $-$$ LUCKY CAT RAMEN—Specializes in gourmet ramen bowls, such as Bacon Collards Ramen, made with rich broth. Bao, steamed buns filled with various meats and veggies, also grace the menu. 247 S. Cooper. 633-8296. L, D, X, $-$$ MAMA GAIA—Greek-inspired dishes at this vegetarian eatery include pitas, “petitzzas,” and quinoa bowls. 1350 Concourse Avenue, Suite 137. 203-3838; 2144 Madison. 2142449. B, L, D, X, $-$$ MARDI GRAS MEMPHIS—Serving Cajun fare, including an etouffee-stuffed po’boy. Closed Mon. 496 Watkins. 530-6767. L, D, X, $-$$ MAXIMO’S ON BROAD—Serving a tapas menu that features creative fusion cuisine; entrees include veggie paella and fish of the day. Closed Mon. 2617 Broad Ave. 452-1111. D, SB, X, $-$$ MEMPHIS PIZZA CAFE—Homemade pizzas are specialties; also serves sandwiches, calzones, and salads. 2087 Madison. 726-5343; 5061 Park Ave. 684-1306; 7604 W. Farmington (Germantown). 753-2218; 797 W. Poplar (Collierville). 861-7800; 5627 Getwell (Southaven). 662-5361364. L, D, X, $-$$ MOLLY’S LA CASITA—Homemade tamales, fish tacos, a vegetarian combo, and bacon-wrapped shrimp are a few of the specialties. 2006 Madison. 726-1873. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ NEXT DOOR AMERICAN EATERY—The Kitchen’s sister restaurant serves dishes sourced from American farms. Menu features chorizo bacon dates, spicy gulf shrimp, and dry-aged beef burgers. 1350 Concourse Avenue Suite 165. 779-1512. L, D, X, $ ONIX RESTAURANT—Serves seafood dishes, including barbecued shrimp and pecan-crusted trout, and a variety of salads and sandwiches. Closed Sun. 1680 Madison. 5524609. L, D, X, $-$$ PAYNE’S BAR-B-QUE—Opened in 1972, this family owned barbecue joint serves ribs, smoked sausage, and chopped pork sandwiches with a standout mustard slaw and homemade sauce. About as down-to-earth as it gets. 1762 Lamar. 272-1523. L, D, $-$$ PEI WEI ASIAN DINER—Serves a variety of PanAsian cuisine, including Japanese, Vietnamese, Korean, and Thai. Noodle and rice bowls are specialties; a small plates menu also offered. 1680 Union Ave., #109. 722-3780; 2257 N. Germantown Pkwy. 382-1822. L, D, X, $-$$  PHO BINH—Vietnamese, vegetarian, and Cantonese specialties include lemon tofu and spring rolls. Closed Sunday. 1615 Madison. 276-0006. L, D, $ RAILGARTEN—Located in a former rail station space, this eatery offers breakfast items, a variety of salads and

Broadway Pizza House Legendary Pizza Since 1977

2581 Broad Avenue (901) 454-7930

629 South Mendenhall (901) 207-1546

Memphis Magazine’s

THE 2018

FACE OF

PIZZA

M A Y 2 0 1 8 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 93

CIT Y DINING LIST sandwiches, and such entrees as short rib mac-and-cheese and fish tacos. Also serves shakes, malts, floats, and cream sodas. 2166 Central. 231-5043. B, L, D, $-$$ RED FISH ASIAN BISTRO—From the former 19th Century Club building, serves sushi, teriyaki, and hibachi. Specialities include yuzu filet mignon and Chilean sea bass. 1433 Union. 454-3926; 9915 Highway 64 (Lakeland). 729-7581; 6518 Goodman (Olive Branch). 662-8745254. L, D, X, $-$$$ RESTAURANT IRIS—French Creole cuisine includes shrimp and delta-grind grits, and New York strip stuffed with fried oysters. Chef Kelly English is a Food and Wine “Top Ten.” Closed Sun. 2146 Monroe. 590-2828. D, X, $$-$$$ ROBATA RAMEN & YAKITORI BAR—Serves ramen noodle bowls and Yakitori skewers as well as rice and noodle dishes. 2116 Madison. 410-8290. L, D, X, $ SABROSURA—Serves Mexican and Cuban fare, including arroz tapada de pollo and steak Mexican. Closed Sun. 782 Washington. 421-8180. L, D, X, $-$$ THE SECOND LINE—Kelly English brings “relaxed Creole cuisine” to his newest eatery; serves a variety of po-boys and such specialties as barbecue shrimp, and andouille, shrimp, and pimento cheese fries. 2144 Monroe. 590-2829. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ SEKISUI—Japanese fusion cuisine, fresh sushi bar, grilled meats and seafood, California rolls, and vegetarian entrees. Poplar/Perkins location’s emphasis is on Pacific Rim cuisine. Menu and hours vary at each location. 25 Belvedere. 725-0005; 1884 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 309-8800; 4724 Poplar (between Perkins & Colonial). 767-7770; 2130 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-0622; 2990 Kirby-Whitten (Bartlett). 377-2727; 6696 Poplar. 747-0001. L, D, X, $-$$$ STONE SOUP CAFE—Cooper-Young eatery serving soups, salads, quiche, meat-and-two specials; and daily specials such as Italian roast beef. Closed Monday. 993 S. Cooper. 922-5314. B, L, SB, X, $ SOUL FISH CAFE—Serving Southern-style soul food, tacos, and Po Boys, including catfish, crawfish, oyster, shrimp, chicken and smoked pork tenderloin. 862 S. Cooper. 725-0722; 3160 Village Shops Dr. (Germantown). 755-6988; 4720 Poplar. 590-0323. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ SWEET GRASS—Chef Ryan Trimm takes Southern cuisine to a new level. Low-country coastal cuisine includes such specialties as shrimp and grits. Closed Mon. Restaurant’s “sister,” Sweet Grass Next Door, open nightly, serves lunch Sat.-Sun. 937 S. Cooper. 278-0278. D, SB, X, $-$$$ TART—Combination patisserie and coffeehouse serving rustic French specialties, including baked eggs in brioche, topped with Gruyere, and French breads and pastries. One Commerce Square, 40 S. Main #150. 421-6276. B, L, WB, X, $-$$ TROLLEY STOP MARKET—Serves plate lunches/dinners as well as pizzas, salads, and vegan/vegetarian entrees; a specialty is the locally raised beef burger. Also sells fresh produce and goods from local farmers; delivery available. Saturday brunch; closed Sunday. 704 Madison. 526-1361. L, D, X, $ TSUNAMI—Features Pacific Rim cuisine (Asia, Australia, South Pacific, etc.); also a changing “small plate” menu. Chef Ben Smith is a Cooper-Young pioneer. Specialties include Asian nachos and roasted sea bass. Closed Sunday. 928 S. Cooper. 274-2556. D, X, $$-$$$

SOUTH MEMPHIS (INCLUDES

PARKWAY VILLAGE, FOX MEADOWS, SOUTH MEMPHIS, WINCHESTER, AND WHITEHAVEN)

COLETTA’S—Longtime eatery serves such specialties as homemade ravioli, lasagna, and pizza with barbecue or traditional toppings. 1063 S. Parkway E. 948-7652; 2850 Appling Rd. (Bartlett). 383-1122. L, D, X, $-$$ CURRY BOWL—Specializes in Southern Indian cuisine, serving Tandoori chicken, biryani, tikka masala, and more. Weekend buffet. 4141 Hacks Cross. 207-6051. L, D, $ DELTA’S KITCHEN—The premier restaurant at The Guest House at Graceland serves Elvis-inspired dishes — like Nutella and Peanut Butter Crepes for breakfast — and upscale Southern

cuisine — including lamb chops and shrimp and grits — for dinner. 3600 Elvis Presley Blvd. 443-3000. B, D, X, $-$$$ DWJ KOREAN BARBECUE—This authentic Korean eatery serves kimbap, barbecued beef short ribs, rice and noodles dishes, and hot pots and stews. 3750 Hacks Cross, Suite 101. 746-8057; 2156 Young. 207-6204. L, D, $-$$ THE FOUR WAY—Legendary soul-food establishment dishing up such entrees as fried and baked catfish, chicken, and turkey and dressing, along with a host of vegetables and desserts. Around the corner from the legendary Stax Studio. Closed Monday. 998 Mississippi Blvd. 507-1519. L, D, $ INTERSTATE BAR-B-Q—Specialties include chopped pork-shoulder sandwiches, ribs, hot wings, spaghetti, chicken, and turkey. 2265 S. Third. 775-2304; 150 W. Stateline Rd. (Southaven). 662-393-5699. L, D, X, $-$$ LEONARD’S—Serves wet and dry ribs, barbecue sandwiches, spaghetti, catfish, homemade onion rings, and lemon icebox pie; also a lunch buffet. 5465 Fox Plaza. 360-1963. L, X, $-$$ MARLOWE’S—In addition to its signature barbecue and ribs, Marlowe’s serves Southern-style steaks, chops, lasagne, and more. 4381 Elvis Presley Blvd. 332-4159. D, X, MRA, $-$$ UNCLE LOU’S FRIED CHICKEN—Featured on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives for good reason: fried chicken (mild, hot, or home-style); jumbo burgers four patties high; strawberry shortcake, and assorted fruit pies. 3633 Millbranch. 332-2367. L, D, X, MRA, $

SUMMER/BERCLAIR/ RALEIGH/BARTLETT ASIAN PALACE—Chinese eatery serves seafood, vegetarian items, dim sum, and more. 5266 Summer Ave. 766-0831. L, D, X, $-$$ ELWOOD’S—Casual comfort food includes tacos, pizza and sandwiches. Specialties include meats smoked in-house (chicken, turkey, brisket, pork), barbecue pizza and steelhead trout tacos. 4523 Summer. 761-9898. B, L, D, X, $ EXLINES’ BEST PIZZA—Serves pizza, Italian dinners, sandwiches, and salads. 6250 Stage Rd. 382-3433; 2935 Austin Peay. 388-4711; 2801 Kirby Parkway. 754-0202; 7730 Wolf River Blvd. (Germantown). 753-4545; 531 W. Stateline Rd. 662-342-4544 (check online for additional locations). L, D, X, MRA, $ GRIDLEY’S—Offers barbecued ribs, shrimp, pork plate, chicken, and hot tamales; also daily lunch specials. Closed Tues. 6842 Stage Rd. 377-8055. L, D, X, $-$$ LA TAQUERIA GUADALUPANA—Fajitas and quesadillas are just a few of the authentic Mexican entrees offered here. A bona-fide Memphis institution. 4818 Summer. 685-6857; 5848 Winchester. 365-4992. L, D, $ LOTUS—Authentic Vietnamese-Asian fare, including lemon-grass chicken and shrimp, egg rolls, Pho soup, and spicy Vietnamese vermicelli. 4970 Summer. 682-1151. D, X, $ MORTIMER’S—Contemporary American entrees include trout almondine, chicken dishes, and hand-cut steaks; also sandwiches, salads, and daily/nightly specials. A Memphis landmark since the Knickerbocker closed. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 590 N. Perkins. 761-9321. L, D, X, $-$$ NAGASAKI INN—Chicken, steak, and lobster are among the main courses; meal is cooked at your table. 3951 Summer. 454-0320. D, X, $$ PANDA GARDEN—Sesame chicken and broccoli beef are among the Mandarin and Cantonese entrees; also seafood specials and fried rice. Closed for lunch Saturday. 3735 Summer. 323-4819. L, D, X, $-$$ QUEEN OF SHEBA—Featuring Middle Eastern favorites and Yemeni dishes such as lamb haneeth and saltah. 4792 Summer. 207-4174. L, D, $

SIDE PORCH STEAK HOUSE—In addition to steak, the menu includes chicken, pork chops, and fish entrees; homemade rolls are a specialty. Closed Sun.-Mon. 5689 Stage Rd. 377-2484. D, X, $-$$

UNIVERSITY NEIGHBORHOOD DISTRICT (INCLUDES CHICKASAW GARDENS AND HIGHLAND STRIP)

A-TAN—Serves Chinese and Japanese hibachi cuisine, complete with sushi bar. A specialty is Four Treasures with garlic sauce. 3445 Poplar, Suite 17, University Center. 452-4477. L, D, X, $-$$$ THE BLUFF—New Orleans-inspired menu includes alligator bites, nachos topped with crawfish and andouille, gumbo, po’boys, and fried seafood platters. 535 S. Highland. 454-7771. L, D, X, $-$$ BROTHER JUNIPER’S—This little cottage is a breakfast mecca, offering specialty omelets, including the open-faced San Diegan omelet; also daily specials, and homemade breads and pastries. Closed Mon. 3519 Walker. 324-0144. B, X, $ CHAR RESTAURANT—Specializing in modern Southern cuisine, this eatery offers homestyle sides, char-broiled steaks, and fresh seafood. 431 S. Highland, #120. 249-3533. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ DERAE RESTAURANT—Ethiopian and Mediterranean fare includes fuul, or fava beans in spices and yogurt, goat meat and rice, and garlic chicken over basmati rice with cilantro chutney; also salmon and tilapia. Closed Monday. 923 S. Highland. 552-3992. B, L, D, $-$$ EL PORTON—Fajitas, quesadillas, and steak ranchero are just a few of the menu items. 2095 Merchants Row (Germantown). 754-4268; 8361 Highway 64. 380-7877; 3448 Poplar, Poplar Plaza. 452-7330; 1805 N. Germantown Parkway (Cordova). 624-9358; 1016 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-5770. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ JOES’ ON HIGHLAND—Specializes in fried chicken and comfort sides such as warm okra/green tomato salad and turnip greens. Entrees include salmon patties and chicken fried steak. Closed Mon. 262 S. Highland. 337-7003. L, D, X, $ MEDALLION—Offers steaks, seafood, chicken, and pasta entrees. Closed for dinner Sunday. 3700 Central, Holiday Inn (Kemmons Wilson School of Hospitality). 678-1030. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ ROCK’N DOUGH PIZZA CO.—Specialty and custom pizzas made from fresh ingredients; wide variety of toppings. 3445 Poplar Ave., Ste. 1. 512-6760; 7850 Poplar, #6 (Germantown). 779-2008. L, D, SB, X, $$

OUT-OF-TOWN TACKER’S SHAKE SHACK—This family-run establishment offers plate lunches, catfish dinners, homemade desserts, and a variety of hamburgers, including a mac ‘n’ cheese-topped griddle burger. Closed Sun. 409 E. Military Rd. (Marion, AR). 870-739-3943. B, L, D, $ BONNE TERRE—This inn’s cafe features American cuisine with a Southern flair, and a seasonal menu that changes monthly. Offers Angus steaks, duck, pasta, and seafood. Closed Sun.-Wed. 4715 Church Rd. W. (Nesbit, MS). 662-781-5100. D, X, $-$$$ BOZO’S HOT PIT BAR-B-Q—Barbecue, burgers, sandwiches, and subs. 342 Hwy 70 (Mason, TN). 901-294-3400. L, D, $-$$ CATFISH BLUES—Serving Delta-raised catfish and Cajunand Southern-inspired dishes, including gumbo and fried green tomatoes. 210 E. Commerce (Hernando, MS). 662-298-3814. L, D, $ CITY GROCERY—Southern eclectic cuisine; shrimp and grits is a specialty. Closed for dinner Sunday. 152 Courthouse Square (Oxford, MS). 662-232-8080. L, D, SB, X, $$-$$$ COMO STEAKHOUSE—Steaks cooked on a hickory charcoal grill are a specialty here. Upstairs is an oyster bar. Closed Sun. 203 Main St. (Como, MS). 662-526-9529. D, X, $-$$$

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CIT Y DINING LIST LONG ROAD CIDER CO.—Specializes in hard apple ciders made with traditional methods. Cafe-style entrees include black eye peas with cornbread and greens, chicken Gorgonzola pockets, cider-steamed sausage, and housemade ice creams. Closed Sun.-Wed. 9053 Barret Road. (Barretville, TN). 352-0962. D, X, $ MANILA FILIPINO RESTAURANT—Entrees include pork belly cutlet with lechon sauce, and shrimp and vegetables in tamarind broth; also daily combos, rice dishes, and chef specials. Closed Sun.-Mon. 7849 Rockford (Millington, TN). 209-8525. L, D, X, $ MARSHALL STEAKHOUSE—Rustic steakhouse serves premium Angus beef steaks, seafood dishes, rack of lamb, and more. Breakfast menu features griddle cakes, and lunch offerings include hamburger steak and oyster po’ boys. 2379 Highway 178 (Holly Springs, MS). 628-3556. B, L, D, X, $-$$$ MEMPHIS BARBECUE COMPANY—Offers spare ribs, baby backs, and pulled pork and brisket, along with such sides as mac and cheese, grits, and red beans. 709 Desoto

CASINO TABLES BOURBON STREET STEAKHOUSE & GRILL AT SOUTHLAND PARK—1550 Ingram Blvd., West Memphis, AR, 1-800-467-6182. CHICAGO STEAKHOUSE AT THE GOLDSTRIKE—1010 Casino Center Dr., Robinsonville, MS, 1-888-24KSTAY /662-357-1225. FAIRBANKS AT THE HOLLYWOOD—1150 Casino Strip Blvd., Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-871-0711. JACK BINION’S STEAK HOUSE AT HORSESHOE—1021 Casino Center Drive, Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-303-SHOE. LUCKY 8 ASIAN BISTRO AT HORSESHOE—1021 Casino Center Drive, Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-303-SHOE. SAMMY HAGAR’S RED ROCKER BAR & GRILL AT SOUTHLAND PARK—1550 Ingram Blvd., West Memphis, AR, 1-870-735-3670 ext. 5208 THE STEAKHOUSE AT THE FITZ —711 Lucky Ln., Robinsonville, MS, 1-888-766-LUCK, ext 8213. Cove (Horn Lake, MS). 662-536-3762. L, D, X, $-$$ NAGOYA—Offers traditional Japanese cuisine and sushi bar; specialties are teriyaki and tempura dishes. 7075 Malco Blvd., Suite 101 (Southaven, MS). 662-349-8788. L, D, X, $-$$$  PANCHO’S—Serves up a variety of Mexican standards, including tacos, enchiladas, and mix-and-match platters; also lunch specials. 3600 E. Broadway (West Memphis, AR). 870-735-6466. 717 N. White Station. 685-5404. L, D, X, MRA, $ PIG-N-WHISTLE—Offers pork shoulder sandwiches, wet and dry ribs, catfish, nachos, and stuffed barbecue potatoes. 6084 Kerr-Rosemark Rd. (Millington, TN). 872-2455. L, D, X, $ RAVEN & LILY—Eatery offers innovative Southern cuisine with such dishes as onion ring and pork rind salad, chipotle hot chicken with spiced cabbage, and shrimp and grits benedict. Closed for lunch Monday. 7700 Highway 64 (Oakland, TN). 235-7300. L, D, SB, X, $-$$ RAVINE—Serves contemporary Southern cuisine with an emphasis on fresh, locally grown foods and a menu that changes weekly. Closed Mon.-Tues. 53 Pea Ridge/County Rd. 321 (Oxford, MS). 662-234-4555. D, SB, X, $$-$$$ STEAK BY MELISSA—Aged, choice-grade, hand-cut steaks are a specialty here. Also serving fresh seafood dishes, plate lunches, burgers, and sandwiches. 4975 Pepper Chase Dr. (Southaven, MS). 662-342-0602. L, D, WB, X, $-$$$ WILSON CAFE—Serving elevated home-cooking, with such dishes as deviled eggs with cilantro and jalapeno, scampi and grits, and doughnut bread pudding. 2 N. Jefferson (Wilson, AR). 870-655-0222. L, D (Wed. through Sat. only), X, $-$$$

Want your kids to love running? We can do that.

Kids Run Memphis is a week-long summer camp that encourages children of all athletic abilities to find the joy in running, all while learning the fundamentals needed to be a great runner. Each day focuses on specific topics such as form, hydration, or track and field. The camp concludes with a 1 Mile Graduation Run on Saturday, June 9.

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M A Y 2 0 1 8 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 95

LAST STAND

Stay With Me One day, one adventure in a familiar — and fabulous — city.

by frank murtaugh wiches you grabbed at Cozy Corner can wait for half an hour.) Memphis would not be here today were it not for this liquid highway, the metaphorical embodiment of the steady — if sometimes swollen — flow of life itself. It was here, doing its natural thing, long before we arrived, and will happily carry on after we’re gone. 1-2:30 P.M.: NATIONAL CIVIL

— It’s a heavy tour; there’s no getting around it. Particularly since the museum’s 2014 renovation, the interactive trip alongside those who built, suffered, and maintained the Civil Rights movement will sharpen the senses and shift perspective on the nature of life as not just a Memphian, but as a human being. Room 306 has life to this day. That lump in your throat is healthy. RIGHTS MUSEUM

7 A.M.: BREAKFAST AT THE BLUE

— We must be discretionary about the amount of sawmill gravy we allow in our lives. Same goes for waffles, sausage links, and such. But with a big day ahead, this East Memphis institution offers the proper fuel, with menus featuring life wisdom you’ll carry beyond today’s venture. PLATE CAFÉ

8-9:30 A.M.: HYDE LAKE AT

— A big breakfast is rightfully followed by a gentle stroll around the region’s prettiest — and most accessible — body of water east of Ol’ Man River. One lap around the expanded lake will put two miles on your Fitbit, so you’re already ahead of your workday pace. No paddle-boating today. Too much on the itinerary. SHELBY FARMS

10-11 A.M.: SUN STUDIO — Bless the good folks at Graceland, but a visit to the King’s castle requires a half-day, minimum, to fully absorb Elvis Presley’s influence on the world. For a fraction of the time (and cost), you can walk where a 19-yearold Elvis walked, and even belt out a refrain from “That’s All Right” or “My Happiness” precisely where Sam Phillips first recorded them. Memphis has its share of goose-bump spots, but that “X” on the floor where a legend first made himself heard? Gold. 11:30 A.M.-12:30 P.M.: GREEN-

— Just stare at it. Take a seat on your picnic blanket and stare at the Mississippi River as it eases its way south. (Those pork sandBELT PARK AT HARBOR TOWN

3-4 P.M.: A. SCHWAB’S ON BEALE

— If Schwab’s doesn’t have it, you don’t need it. If there’s an Elvis Presley eyebrow brush in town, this is where you’ll find it. (I haven’t yet.) But I have found the best throwback soda fountain since George Bailey scooped ice cream and coconut shavings in Bedford Falls. Back away from the MoonPie counter and grab a stool. STREET

6-7 P.M.: THE RENDEZVOUS — How hungry are you? A slab of ribs — coated with dry rub — from this subterranean, back-alley institution will make you forget barbecue sauce and remember salvation comes in tasty packages. If you’re still full from our riverside picnic, snack on a cheese plate and introduce yourself to a waiter. You’ll learn something about Memphis you didn’t know before. 7-10 P.M.: AUTOZONE PARK OR

— If it’s baseball season, we’ll catch the most distinctive Memphis sunset — and they are glorious — from the rightfield concourse at the finest ballpark you’ll find below the major leagues. And the Redbirds — reigning champs of the Pacific Coast League — play a good brand of baseball. If it’s basketball season, we’ll catch the Grizzlies or Tigers (you may have heard Penny Hardaway now coaches the latter) and count on a return to Hoop City status in the near future. FEDEXFORUM

4:30-5:30 P.M.: THE PEABODY

— We’re snapping pictures in front of three statues — W.C. Handy, Elvis, and Bobby “Blue” Bland — before strolling over to “the South’s Grand Hotel” at the corner of Union and B.B. King. (Take a shot of the Chisca building, too, where Dewey Phillips first spun an Elvis record.) Ducks are royalty in The Peabody’s lobby and we’ll catch their red-carpet march from

10-11:59 P.M.: BEALE STREET — It’s the happiest three blocks you’ll stroll all year. Find a joint with a local band (my favorites are the Rum Boogie and King’s Palace Café). Venture into Silky O’Sullivan’s for dueling pianos and, depending on your tolerance for such creatures, live goats. It’s well nigh impossible to leave Beale Street without a Memphis smile on your face.

PHOTOGRAPH BY BG

ou’ve called Memphis home for some time now, but perhaps you need a gentle reminder of why, exactly, people spend a month’s salary crossing oceans to visit Tennessee’s southwest corner. This magazine has been describing all varieties of “staycations” for 42 years now. But never before have you seen a whatto-do description with the hour-by-hour precision you’ll see below. So tighten your shoe laces, and come along:

the glorious marble fountain they call home during the day to the elevator that returns the feathered rock stars to their rooftop perch for the evening. You’ll never look at a rubber ducky the same way.

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More exploring your passions. More taking the road less traveled. More making the most of every second you’ve got. That’s what every fiber of the all-new BMW X3 was designed to do. With its adaptive next-generation xDrive, intelligent all-wheel-drive system, an available 360-hp M Performance-tuned engine, and the unparalleled connectivity of iDrive 6.0, the all-new BMW X3 is undoubtedly capable of more. So, really, the only question is, are you?

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