Memphis - May 2022 by Contemporary Media

THE NEW BROOKS | NURSING SHORTAGE | NASHVILLE ON THE FLY | PETS AT WORK

MAGAZINE

VOL XLVII NO 2 | M A Y 2 0 2 2

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WA LT O N

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A gathering of family and friends will always be the cornerstone of a Celebration of Life.

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4/15/22 9:43 AM

Let Us Be Your Voice

Of Memphis, for Memphis. From the community, for the community. Car Accidents ♦ Personal Injury ♦ Slip & Fall We don’t get paid until you get paid.

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COVER PHOTOGRAPH: ALAN KARCHMER / OTTO

V O L X LV II N O 2 | M A Y 2022

UP FRONT 10 12 14

I N T H E B E G I N N I N G ~ by l u c k y b o o t s t r av e r s e S I P S ~ by b r u c e va n w y n g a r d e n I N S I D E M E M P H I S B U S I N E S S ~ by samuel x. cicci

FEATURES

GIFT GUIDE

PET GUIDE

Celebrating Mom, Locally Pets at Work

It’s back to the office for many, including our furry friends.

HABITATS

High Design, High Performance

Memphis architect Barry Yoakum’s Harbor Town home, Civitas, is a groundbreaking glimpse into the future. ~ b y c h r i s m c c o y

36 The New Brooks

Past, present, and future for a Memphis art institution. ~

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Triaging the Nursing Shortage

Covid exacerbated an already tough situation, but locals are fighting back. ~ by t o by s e l l s

ROAD TRIP

Nashville on the Fly

A weekend getaway to Music City offers pleasant surprises.

~ bruce va n w y n g a r d e n

ASK VANCE

Pritchard Brothers Plumbing

Our history expert solves local mysteries of who, what, when, where, why, and why not. ~ by va n c e l au d e r da l e

CLASSIC DINING

Italian Spinach at Lucchesi’s Ravioli & Pasta Company Lasagna and ravioli are big sellers, but spinach reigns supreme at this popular East Memphis spot. ~ b y m i c h a e l d o n a h u e

TIDBITS

South Point Grocery

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36 Memphis (ISSN 1622-820x) is published monthly for $18 per year by Contemporary Media, Inc., 65 Union Avenue, 2nd Floor, Memphis, TN 38103 © 2022. Telephone: 901-521-9000. For subscription info, please call 901-521-9000. Subscription customer service mailing address is Memphis magazine, P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101. All rights reserved. • Periodicals Postage Paid at Memphis, TN. Postmasters: send address changes to Memphis, P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101.

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CITY DINING

LAST STAND

The city’s most extensive dining listings. What’s in a Name?

You think it’s easy guarding somebody like my Abby? It’s a dog’s life, I tell you. ~ by b l o b by

M AY 202 2 • MEMPHISM AG A ZINE.COM • 7

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Memphis Magazine's

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The original human requested that I pro- a gentleman of my status. It may surprise vide a written introduction to this magazine, you, then, to learn that I was a foundling. Yes, and while I think the best use of a printed I was discovered as a kitten of merely five magazine is as a day bed, perfect for my many weeks, playing alone near heavy traffic on naps, I acquiesced. She has been asking for Wolf River Boulevard. Without mother or years, even pointing out that “Lily Bear [that’s siblings, I fended for myself admirably, manwhat she calls the dog] has written an article aging to avoid the clutches of those diabolical for us.” And? Who would think me so eager metal creatures on strange, wheeled paws. to please as a humble dog? I would not have The original human’s father and stepmother agreed to write this, exhelped me into the car, cept that I derive power and while there was early talk of “finding somefrom remaining beguilone to adopt the kitten,” ingly unpredictable. well, who could rehome Plus, a dog (not even the one who herds me a f luffy, tuxedo-clad, clever, and (I’ll admit) around The House) has written the column that sweet little prince such concludes this publicaas myself ? That was tion. They say that havnearly 13 years ago. ing the last word is best, People talk of training but we all know that sudogs, which I suppose perior beings deserve is more or less possible, to be heard first. Truly, but cats? I can speak only for myself, but there is no reason for the fact is that I have you to read beyond this page. No subsequent trained the humans, not the other way around. I article could hope to be Monsieur Olivier Cromwell Traverse IV more edifying. am an alarm clock in the (The original human morning, ensuring that did ask me to mention that you shouldn’t miss any snoozing they attempt will be punctuthe annual “pet guide” — which features ated with the plaintive rowwwrs of a cat who may not have been fed in days, nay, weeks. I animals with occupations, the chumps — or the Nashville road-trip story, or the Brooks remind them to tidy up, by attacking the laces Museum story, or the nursing story, or really of any shoe left languishing on the floor, and any of the stories. I do not care in the least to close doors behind them, by disappearwhat you choose to read, unless your choices ing into the attic / closet / bathroom vanity motivate you to: a) feed me, b) bring me a / pantry / cupboard whenever possible, thus string to pounce upon, c) lie down flat so that forcing the silly humans to undertake franI may rest upon your abdomen, or d) legally tic house-wide searches for me. Haha! How guarantee that I will never be put into the foolish they appear, while I nestle in darkened evil prison known as a “cat carrier” ever again. nooks and laugh and laugh. Otherwise, you do you.) I realize that I have told you only but a little Better than discussing frivolous topics of my valiant and charming tale, but … perthat have nothing to do with me? Telling you haps another time. When I agreed to write more about me, naturally. Perhaps you have this for you, I did not realize I would need to surmised from my rather lengthy official ap- stay awake the entire time. You are, of course, pellation that I am a cat of noble birth, and welcome to continue admiring me while I perhaps you have deduced from my portrait sprawl out and snore. Yes, I snore. Some cats snore. Leave me alone. that I sport a permanent tuxedo, as befits

PHOTOGRAPH BY THE ORIGINAL HUMAN

SELLING FINE HOMES

alutations. My regal name is Monsieur Olivier Cromwell Traverse IV. Since your human brain operates so feebly, you may address me as Lucky Boots. With my pink-padded and fluffy paws (superior in might to any iron fist), I rule the kingdom known as The House — quite a task, with such unruly inhabitants as the original human, the human she married, and that human’s increasingly giantlike progeny, not to mention the lumbering beast referred to as my “dog sister.” (Shall I remind you of the deficits of your human mind? Cats do not have dogs for siblings.)

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S I P S

Truly Blessed

The Beauty Shop’s Leanna Tedford is a bartending legend in Memphis.

Bartender Leanna Tedford serving a “New Orleans Special.”

f you’re the kind of Memphian who likes to settle in at a good bar now and then, you’ve likely had a drink handed to you by Leanna Tedford. Her bartending résumé stretches back 30 years, covering stints at Mick’s, Cafe Olé, Cooper Street, Café Society, Jim’s Place East, and Grove Grill. She currently bartends and waits tables at Karen Carrier’s Beauty Shop in Cooper-Young, where we recently met to catch up.

I confess to being one of those Memphians who likes to settle in at a good bar now and then. I’ve been to all of those places named above, and have encountered Tedford many times over the years. But I really got to know her through our mutual love of trout fishing (and big ol’ rescue mutts), which we discov-

ered in an accidental meetup at Fat Possum Hollow resort on the Little Red River a few years back. I was already aware that Leanna was good people, but folks who trout-fish and love dawgs are extra good people in my book. Plus, she makes a killer drink. She was originally going to be

a teacher, but things got waylaid cial. It’s got reposado tequila, St. down in Mississippi. “I started Germain liqueur, a little fresh working at Como Steakhouse lemon juice, and some fresh basil. while doing my student teachThen I shake it — which strains ing at Delta State in 1992,” Tedsome of the basil out — and pour. ford says. “But I never taught a It’s quick, easy, fresh, and deliday, because I found something cious. Not complicated.” I liked better, and I’ve never left. A minute later, Leanna slides This industry has been really a clear, icy glass decorated with a sprig of basil in my direction. I good to me.” After working at Cafe Olé, take a sip. The cocktail starts dry, then Cooper Street in the late not at all sweet. It finishes with 1990s, she got a job at Café a hint of lemon and lavender — Society and stayed there nine and a whiff of that herbaceous years. “I really loved that bar,” basil. It’s crisp as seersucker and she says. “I still have lunch over would enjoy being in your hand there sometimes. Then I spent on a steamy Memphis summer 10 years at Grove Grill before it day. I recommend it to you. closed, where I also met a lot of It turns out that I’ve caught great people.” Tedford on the last day before Tedford got her Beauty Shop she’s taking a week off to go to gig “one day before the panFat Possum. “The dogs are ready,” demic” — just before the era of she says, “and so am I. And now take-out and carryout — and that I’m waiting tables more, it decided to hang around makes it easier for me The cocktail for a while. to take off to my fishing spot, so that’s a win.” “One thing about starts dry, not Karen [Carrier] is that at all sweet. It I tell her to catch a big she takes care of her finishes with a brown trout for me and employees,” Tedford hint of lemon ask her if she has any fisays. “She was so dilinal thoughts before we and lavender — gent about masks and wrap things up. all of us staying healthy and a whiff of “Well,” she says, “I always wanted to be and setting up insur- that herbaceous ance. She worried about basil. It’s crisp as tall and skinny and everybody being able to seersucker and have a German shortfeed their families and haired pointer, but would enjoy being I’m short, not skinny, pay their bills. Eventually, I started waiting in your hand on a and the dogs who’ve tables, since we didn’t steamy Memphis found me have all been have a bar for months.” summer day. I rec- some kind of hound. On a recent delight- ommend it to you. I’ve always wanted to be rich, and I’m not, ful spring afternoon, the always-eclectic Beauty Shop but I have the most wonderful bar is open. Being a professional friends — 90 percent of whom journalist, I never lose sight of my I met through my work — so core mission: getting a bartender I consider myself to be one of to make me a free drink. the most-blessed people on the planet. How’s that?” “You know you have to make me a cocktail as part of this deal, “That’s pretty good,” I say. right?” I say. “Them’s the rules.” “Tight lines tomorrow.” “Yes, I am aware of that,” says Tedford, “and I’ve decided to The Beauty Shop is located at 966 South Cooper, 901-272-7111. make you our New Orleans Spe-

PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRUCE VANWYNGARDEN

BY BRUCE VANW YNGARDEN

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4/14/22 5:23 PM

New Horizons for Memphis’ Oldest Bank

TD Bank’s acquisition of First Horizon signals change and uncertainty in Memphis. BY SAMUEL X. CICCI

eismic change provides an opportunity for a reset. Memphis will certainly be changed when one of the city’s biggest business players, First Horizon, soon has new out-of-town leadership for the first time since its founding in 1864 as First National Bank of Memphis. The last couple of years have seen significant moves in the Memphis banking market, with institutions large and small acquired by bigger organizations: Arkansas-based Simmons Bank snapped up Landmark Community Bank and Triumph Bank last summer, while New Orleans’ Liberty Bank and Trust Company announced their intention to acquire Tri-State Bank. And even within the local level, Memphis’ largest credit union, Orion FCU, said last August it planned to buy Financial Federal.

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But the biggest domino fell just three months ago, when First Horizon, the largest Memphis-based bank, announced its impending sale to Canada’s Toronto-Dominion Bank (TD Bank) in a $13.4 billion all-cash deal. With the last of Memphis’ big three legacy banks — Union Planters, National Bank of Commerce, and First Horizon — soon to be under new leadership, there’s plenty of concern that critical jobs and local funding might move out of town once the transaction is complete. And that concern is a tribute to just how big of an impact First Horizon has had on Memphis. It’s a huge organization: As of December 31, 2021, First Horizon operates 412 branches across 12 states, with assets totaling $89.1 billion and some 5,500 employees nationwide. Local leadership, spearheaded by president and CEO Bryan Jordan, has invested enormous time and resources into many local philanthropic and community organizations. But while it’s still too early to determine how the landscape might change in the future, First Horizon says that TD will continue to be involved in Memphis. “We’re going to be a regional hub for TD,” says Bo Allen, First Horizon’s West Tennessee president, “which means a lot of key jobs will be housed here.” TD has already committed that it has no plans to close any banking centers and will retain First Horizon’s client-facing bankers (roles that involve direct interaction with client or customer). But after any large acquisition, it’s likely there will be a reduced number of jobs in the long run. “Anytime you lose a headquarters company, one that employs 3,000 local employees, there’s going to be change,” continues Allen. “We probably won’t have as many jobs in Memphis as we do today, but there’s no way to know that right now. But we do know that TD has a fantastic reputation of doing business and operating. They have a great reputation for supporting the community, giving back, and taking care of their employees. And those are really good things for our company and Memphis.” When headquarters move out of a city, some at-risk positions are those of the back office support staff. With TD senior staff mostly located in the Northeast, similar positions at First Horizon may become redundant. “Positions like chief financial officers or HR directors are usually going to be operating out of headquarters,” says Chris Kelley, director of the Barret School of Banking at Christian Brothers University. “You don’t need two of positions like those. They’ll still need plenty of people to run branches, and officers to deal with clients. But a lot of back office and support staff may no longer be employed in places ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOZEF MICIC / DREAMSTIME

4/15/22 3:44 PM

like the Memphis and Nashville markets.” to larger loans and give branches a greater caPotentially mitigating any negative effects pacity to lend money on bigger deals. Where of the acquisition is TD’s commitment to placAllen thinks the acquisition will truly benefit ing a large emphasis on its regional hubs. Accustomers, he says, is on the technology side. cording to Beth Ardoin, senior executive vice “TD has a lot more money to invest in technolpresident and chief communicaogy, so that we can compete with tions officer at First Horizon, TD “Bryan Jordan will any bank in the world. It’s a real runs in a similar manner to First remain in Memphis as game changer. That’s people getHorizon. “It’s unusual for a bank vice chair of TD Bank ting money in their account fastof its size,” says Ardoin, “but TD group. So that’s a big er, paying bills faster, maximizing operates a very market-centric deal for Memphis, and their cash. Customers will keep model. At First Horizon, people getting better technology, better the regional hub, that like Bo [Allen] are responsible for credit card offers, better mortgage clients within the market where his passion for the platforms, better online banking.” they live and work. So it’s a con- community and the Disappointment for some lotinuation of those lasting rela- city will remain.” cal players, however, might mean tionships that we’ve built.” opportunity for others. With TD — Bo Allen , First Horizon’s For customers, Allen says that West Tennessee president Bank’s American operations headit will be business as usual after quartered in Cherry Hill, New the transaction has closed. First Horizon cusJersey, many smaller, local banking institutomers can continue using the same branches tions can seize advantage. “A lot of they’ve frequented and continue to work with people cherish these local the bankers they’ve built relationships with. relationships,” says Kelley. TD’s large balance sheet should mean access “And now that leadership is out of town, there’s a percentage of customers who may want to be working with a local bank. And these banks can market to potential new customers, tell them, ‘Hey, we’re here,’ versus somebody making a decision up in the Northeast. ‘We live here, we work here, help us grow, help your business grow.’ So there’s a huge marketing opportunity for

First Horizon headquarters in Downtown Memphis.

BANK BUILDING PHOTO BY SAMUEL X. CICCI.; BRYAN JORDAN PHOTOGRAPH BY LARRY KUZNIEWSKI

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that. And if some folks have lost their jobs after the acquisition, it means there’s a lot of local talent for other banks to tap into, as well.” Another big question about the acquisition is the allotment of philanthropy dollars. First Horizon has been a key supporter of Memphis nonprofits for decades. As part of the acquisition, TD pledged to give $40 million to the First Horizon Foundation fund. But whether that kind of support will continue is unclear. “I expect our philosophy of giving back to the community will stay strong,” says Allen. “TD does a lot of sponsorships, they invest in the communities they’re in, and I think they have a similar philosophy to ours. I think a big part of this is that Bryan Jordan will remain in Memphis as vice chair of TD Bank group. So that’s a big deal for Memphis, and the regional hub, that his passion for the community and the city will remain.” Until the deal closes, the First Horizon Foundation will continue to operate as it has normally. In some cases, it’s actually upping its significant contributions. One of First Horizon’s longtime nonprofit partners, ArtsMemphis, celebrated the tenth anniversary of its ArtsFirst Grant initiative with a largest-ever annual contribution of $650,000. Over a decade, First Horizon has contributed $4.7 million to the initiative. ArtsMemphis president and CEO Elizabeth Rouse credits the longtime partnership

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4/15/22 3:44 PM

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for supporting local arts, especially in the past few difficult years. “First Horizon has made such a huge difference,” she says. “It’s not just the financial support. Employees have volunteered their time, or become board members for many organizations, or are season-ticket holders. And the hope is that these individuals will continue to engage. The communication we’ve received from First Horizon is that Memphis will remain a regional hub and that TD recognizes the history here. That Memphis is still critical, and that philanthropic support is critical to TD. If the relationship changes over the years it will have a huge impact, but we’re hopeful that doesn’t happen.” Until the transaction closes, there are still many unknowns. Historically, big acquisitions like this in Memphis have meant job losses and less philanthropic support. “I worked at the National Bank of Commerce for years,” says Kelley, “and we saw when SunTrust came and bought it, a lot of those jobs went away. Same thing with Union Planters when Regions Bank came in and bought them, many of those jobs went away. “And much of the concern lies in the fact that for the first time in a century, the three

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GROWTHcurrent G ROW THcurrent is is a an n e e-learning -learning a and nd o online nline p personal errs sonal WT development d e v elopment platform p lattfffo orrm m that that gives giiv v es you y ou access ac c es s to to exclusive e x clusiiv v e ev ve platfo ve yo ce ss ex xc ve cc virtual events and online Q&A sessions with global thought leaders, national guest speakers and industry experts, along with learning modules, success secrets and more. The virtual events, media and content is designed to help you grow personally and professionally, profe f ssionally, so you can fe take the next step in your life and career. And, since fe f GROWTHcurrent is hosted by cityCURRENT, your subscription helps power the GOOD, give back to nonprofits and make a difference diff ffe ff ference in the Mid-South. big legacy banks won’t be here in town. But again, that’s where smaller banks will see their opportunity to grow and create new business for themselves.” Customers should expect more of these types of transactions in the banking world. Allen has seen a surge of mergers and acquisitions activity across the country, with big banks buying up smaller orga— Elizabeth Rouse , president nizations, and some and CEO, ArtsMemphis small banks joining forces to compete. “That’s the kind of world we live in right now, and I don’t think it will change anytime soon. So we’re fortunate to have a partner like TD, which has been around for 167 years. I’ve talked to several of my colleagues who used to work for TD, and they had nothing but great things to say about the organization.”

“The communication we’ve received from First Horizon is that Memphis will remain a regional hub and that TD recognizes the history here. That Memphis is still critical, and that philanthropic support is critical to TD. If the relationship changes over the years it will have a huge impact, but we’re hopeful that doesn’t happen.”

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When the transaction is complete, TD will become a top-six U.S. bank, with about $614 billion in assets and 1,560 locations across 22 states. It eyes Memphis as a platform for regional growth, giving it a foothold in attractive Southeastern markets, which TD estimates will grow 50 percent faster than the national average. “First Horizon is a great bank and a terrific strategic fit “First Horizon is a great for TD,” Bharat Masrani, group president bank and a terrific and CEO of TD, said strategic fit for TD. in a statement. “It It provides TD with provides TD with immediate presence immediate presence and scale in highly and scale in highly attractive adjacent attractive adjacent markets in the U.S. with markets in the U.S. significant opportunity with significant opportunity for future for future growth across growth across the the Southeast.” Southeast. Working — Bharat Masran i, group with the First Horipresident and CEO of TD zon team, TD will

Rhapsody in Blue with Conrad Tao Saturday, May 14 7:30pm Sunday, May 15 2:30pm Cannon Center Robert Moody, conductor Conrad Tao, piano

DUKAS The Sorcerer’s Apprentice PROKOFIEV Piano Concerto No. 3 HAILSTORK An American Port of Call GERSHWIN Rhapsody in Blue build upon the success of its strong franchise and deliver the legendary customer experiences that differentiate us in every market across our footprint.” As we’ve seen, Memphis is a resilient city. Once all the First Horizon branches swap to the TD brand, it will be a brave new economic world for the city and the region. When the dust settles and the transaction is closed (expected to happen in early 2023), TD will have plenty of decisions to make. But the largest impacts won’t be felt until a little ways down the road.

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PE T

G U I D E

PETS AT WORK

The CATS and DUCKS Are Not for Sale

ACK TO THE OFFICE? YOU’RE NOT ALONE. In addition to the many humans who have resumed putting on pants and driving to work, a number of local cats, dogs, feathered F YOU’VE EVER VISITED URBAN EARTH, THE NURSERY AND LANDscaping store on Flicker Street, you might have discovered a small friends, and other critters are clocking an honest and fluff y gray tabby cat curled up in the base of the terra-cotta day’s work at businesses around town. Expot you had your eye on. This is Peabody, who — name notwithstanding — is not a duck, although he shares cept they don’t have to wear pants. To his home with two of the feathered friends. Peabody, mark the return of the in-person lifeor Mr. Peebs, roams the friendly plant emporium, sidling up to visitors or nestling among seed packstyle, we’re highlighting a variety of ets. Peabody shares feline duties with Bunny, who animals you might have a chance is neither duck nor bunny, though she does “scoot like a bunny” and, being without a tail, somewhat to meet IRL. (“In-person” doesn’t resembles a rabbit. The two cats are free to roam apply here.) From Memphis’ most the shop and surroundings during the day, but they come indoors at night, and nest in the shop’s storied ducks and their penthouse upstairs office, which is set up with cat beds and accommodations at the Peabody, to supplies. The former strays came to Urban Earth Bunny from a Forest City vet who knows the store’s owners. a cat named Peabody who lives with a Around back, in a partially covered pen, or sometimes pair of ducks at Urban Earth, we’re keen to strolling through the greenhouses, you’ll find a pair of Welsh Harlequin ducks. Daisy arrived first, having been given to the store shake paws with these entre-pet-neurial friends.

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PHOTOGRAPH CREDITS: TOP ILLUSTRATION BY IRYNA KUZNETSOVA / DREAMSTIME; BUNNY BY ANNA TRAVERSE FOGLE

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by its former owner. Last summer, the grandmother of a garden intern happened to visit, and met Daisy. She raises ducks in Arkansas, and asked if Daisy would like to have a friend: Enter Daphne. Welsh Harlequins are domesticated flightless ducks, typically raised for their meat (cover your ears, girls) and their eggs. Until Daphne came to keep her company, Daisy was very friendly with human visitors, but now she reserves most of her affection for her fellow Harlequin. A garden store is something of a buffet for ducks: When worms are discovered, they’re hand-fed to Daisy and Daphne, who can also find all the bug-snacks they could possibly desire, thanks to all the plants. The two will even follow Mr. Peabody the garden crew when plants are being moved, as this process typically yields fallen bugs. Mmm. The ducks’ pen backs up to the train tracks, and as a train hurtles past, the two stand shoulder-to-shoulder, watchful, curious. Despite the din, they don’t seem concerned — more like an old couple, side by side, watching their favorite show. — Anna Traverse Fogle

Daphne and D aisy

Duck, Duck, … DUCK

LENTY OF CITIES ARE HOME TO MORE GLITZ and glamour than Memphis — this isn’t the land of red carpets and paparazzi. But those cities don’t have celebrities quite like The Peabody Ducks. Every day like clockwork, these seasoned performers march down from their penthouse accommodations on the landmark hotel’s rooftop and get to work entertaining guests in the lobby. The feathery showstoppers have received top billing at The Peabody since the 1930s, and play a big part in keeping Memphis on the tourism map. “This tradition is really about the creation of joy,” says duckmaster (yes, his actual title) Kenon Walker, who manages, trains, and oversees the hotel’s feathery friends on a daily basis. “As soon as the ducks march out of the elevator, you see the smiles appear on people’s faces — kids and adults. This has been going on for a long time, and it’s a really important part of The Peabody.” The Peabody’s famed duck march takes place twice a day — at 11 a.m. when they arrive in the lobby, and again at 5 p.m. when they return to their rooftop lair. This event has provided the perfect platform for many an aspiring quacktor. New ducks arrive for a threemonth residency program when they’re about a year old to meet Walker and the other ducks. After arrival, they quickly settle into a training regimen, built around learning the path down to the lobby, fueled

by a hearty diet of romaine lettuce. “I’d say it takes about a month for the rookies to get fully acclimated,” says Walker. “They’re understandably nervous in new surroundings and around me, but they’ll see the veteran group of ducks interacting and coming up to me. So they’ve got some time to have their little conversations back and forth, and be like, ‘Hey, this guy is OK.’” Walker usually expects a new group to need two weeks before they are transformed into the perfect showmen (showducks?), ready to march down the lobby’s red carpet and seize the spotlight with him as he regales audiences with tales of the ducks and the hotel’s history. As with performing troupes of all stripes, ducks have divas, too. On rare occasions, one overzealous mallard may break ranks and flit about the lobby as it pleases, or wander into the gift shop. “It’s really entertaining for our guests. Not quite as much for us,” laughs Walker, “but it never causes too much of a problem.” For the most part, though, Walker keeps all his ducks in a row. And after three months of working with a crew, the ducks give way to a new, younger group, ready to take fl ight in their own fledgling show business careers. The veterans head back to the farm they were raised on before returning to the wild, ready to enjoy an early retirement. — Samuel X. Cicci

PHOTOGRAPH CREDITS: MR. PEABODY BY CORA PITT; DAPHNE AND DAISY BY ANNA TRAVERSE FOGLE; THE PEABODY DUCKS BY TREY CLARK / COURTESY THE PEABODY

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PE T

G U I D E

Meet M & M

new season premiered [in 2019], I dressed him up as Jon Snow with a HEN THE ENGLISH BULLDOGS SIR MEATBALL AND MILKSHAKE fur coat and wig. And I kept pushing the boundaries to see what I could enter the coffee shop at ARRIVE Memphis hotel for their indress him up as. The Instagram kinda took off from there with the terview, all eyes go to them, dressed in their Grizzlies jerseys costumes.” and matching harnesses. The Vice & Virtue Coffee team But while at work, Meatball’s parents noticed through welcome them as regulars and even ask if they can their doggy cam that the pup would just sit and wait at make an appearance for an event at the hotel in a few the door for when they came home. “We thought maybe weeks benefiting the Streetdog Foundation. Meatball Meatball needed a companion.” So, in February 2020, chooses to sit at the end of the sofa closest to the Meatball became a big brother to Milkshake, now his door where people filter in and out. best friend. “Meatball likes to be out there so people can pet “Their personalities are totally opposite,” Stewart him,” his mom, Mary Lauren Stewart, explains. “And says. “I would say they’re both Velcro-dogs, but Meatball if we’re sitting on a patio, he’ll be out in the walkway is the type of Velcro-dog that doesn’t want to deal with a so people will have to acknowledge him when they Milkshake more intense Velcro-dog.” walk by. He knows he’s famous.” Regardless, both dogs bask in the attention they get when Stewart started the @Sir.Meatball Instagram account a going out in Memphis, their outings often documented in Instafew months after she got him in 2018, but she didn’t expect the gram stories and posts. “Part of taking my dogs everywhere is 26,000 followers. “[My husband, Michael, and I] were like, figuring out where they can go,” Stewart adds. “I like helping we’re not going to be those Instagram dog people, which people find places that are dog-friendly … and I want to is funny to look back on now,” she says. promote Memphis.” When Meatball came into their lives, Stewart Stewart also hopes to expand the dogs’ charitable was still attending law school at the University of efforts by making appearances at fundraisers and Memphis, so she could train and spend time with adoption events and even auctioning meet-and-greets him when not in class. “He kind of just did everyand classroom visits for schools. “Eventually, after thing with me,” she recalls. “He would literally lie all the Covid restrictions and regulations calm down,” across my lap when I would study. … We call him a Stewart says, “I would love for them to become palliative tiny angel.” His sweet and docile personality, Stewart care dogs and go to nursing homes and hospitals.” would soon learn, was not only perfectly suited to going Sir Meatball For now, though, Meatball and Milkshake will continue all over Memphis but also to dressing up in costume. spreading joy on the streets and on Instagram, where a picture “I have a little bit of a creative side that doesn’t really get of them can put a smile on anyone’s face even on the worst days. utilized as an attorney,” Stewart says. “So dressing up Meatball be— Abigail Morici came a stress-reliever, like a creative outlet. When Game of Thrones’ 24 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • M A Y 2 0 2 2

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARY LAUREN STEWART

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Close Encounters of the BIRD Kind

IELDS FALCONE, APTLY NAMED PROGRAMS MANager for the Overton Park Conservancy, doesn’t need to buy jazz records anymore, thanks to her very special pet, Wonder. We’ll let her tell the story: “I’m a bird biologist, so I get a lot of calls about baby birds every spring. Somebody called about one that had fallen out of a nest, with no feathers. I calculated it to be about five days old. And it was not a native bird; it was a European Starling, which you can’t take to a rescue center. They need to spend their time on native birds. European Starlings outcompete native species for nests in the cavities of trees. They are not ecologically sound. “So as a biologist, I was faced with a choice: either euthanize or raise him intentionally as a pet. And funnily enough, I had just finished this book, Arnie the Darling Starling. I looked at this little lump of bubblegum that looked just like Gollum and was immediately in love. So I didn’t want to euthanize. Instead, I went nutso and raised him to be highly, highly imprinted on me, so he would have a flock. That’s the heart’s truth. His is a very social species. You see them in those giant flocks at Shelby Farms, maybe in the hundreds of thousands in the

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY FIELDS FALCONE

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fall and winter. “I named him Wonder. When he was young and impressionable, I repeated phrases and whistles over and over again, including several bird songs, like the Northern Cardinal and the White Throated Sparrow. And I taught him ‘Somewhere Over the Rainbow,’ but he’s kind of bastardized it. Every day, we go to school. Later when he’s alone in the room, I hear him in there practicing. “Now he’s doing jazz! He does his ‘run’ every day, starting with his favorite whistle: ‘Close Encounters of the Third Kind.’ Then he’ll do Northern Cardinal. And he’ll say, ‘What you doing?’, ‘Who’s a good bird?’, and ‘Kisses! Mwah mwah mwah.’ Then he does this crazy vamping, stringing together whistled phrases I never taught him. It sounds like Mozart. And then he adds a coda that’s all starling, which must be genetic. He’s never heard a starling in his life.” Hear Wonder sing on his own Instagram account: @the_wonder_chronicles — Alex Greene

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Cooper RESCUED

Sadee

Mylo

HEN PEOPLE LEARN THAT A DOG SERVES as the “greeter” at a gallery in the Broad Avenue Arts District that specializes in beautiful and very fragile art glass, they probably imagine a Pekinese or Chihuahua — something small. And then Mylo bounds around the corner, excited and playful, with gallery co-owner Tom Clifton trying to hold him back as he strains at his thick nylon leash. The expression “bull in a china shop” comes to mind when customers first meet Mylo, a Bernese Mountain Dog — a breed so massive and strong that years ago villagers in northern Europe, chiefly Switzerland, used them to pull carts and wagons. Despite his size — his head, the size of a football, comes up to a visitor’s waist — these dogs are known to be affectionate and friendly. “He’s only one year old,” says Clifton, “and he already weighs 130 pounds. In fact, we just celebrated his birthday with the other dogs from the same litter last Sunday [in April] at Sea Isle Dog Park.” Dogs have always been a part of T Clifton Gallery, ever since Tom and co-owner Pat Brown first opened their shop in East Memphis, moving it to a former dry-goods store on Broad Avenue 13 years ago as the first retail establishment in the newly established arts district. Their first canine employee was Rocket, “just a little mixed-breed, as sweet as the day is long,” says Clifton. His successor was a retriever named Atlas, and later came Argus, a gentle giant of a St. Bernard who watched over the gallery for 11 years. Argus passed away in 2020, and Daily Memphian columnist Geoff Calkins, a regular visitor to the shop, soon offered Clifton and

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Brown the “pick of the litter” from eight puppies born to a Bernese owned by his mother. They selected the beautiful black and brown dog, with flashes of thick white fur, and named him Mylo, which means “dear one.” Clifton laughs at the name. “Argus means ‘warrior’ but he was very calm and passive. Meanwhile, the ‘dear one’ here is quite a handful.” The gallery owner quickly learned to move the expensive glassware from the lower shelves — not only as a precaution against the dog’s heavy, swishing tail, but because Mylo has a penchant for eating paper, including the price tags and labels on the art glass. After all, this is a dog whose “chew toys” include the firewood stacked in Clifton’s yard. “I certainly don’t want him to grow out of his playful, puppy enthusiasm,” says Clifton, who then pauses. “But, well — sometimes I do.” Even so, in April Mylo enjoyed his “First Fridays on Broad,” a monthly event that brings crowds into the gallery, and he proved a good host. “He didn’t get too excited, and he didn’t knock anybody down,” says Clifton. Many visitors to the arts district have fond memories of Argus, the gentle St. Bernard, but it seems Mylo has found his own home on Broad Avenue. — Michael Finger

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H A B I TAT S

H I G H D E S I G N H I G H P E R F O R M A N C E

P H O T O G R A P H S

B Y

A L A N

K A R C H M E R

O T T O

above: “Civitas” is Latin for “community.” The glass front is meant to create a semi-public space while providing spectacular views of the Mississippi River. “I like to think cinematically,” says Barry Yoakum, FAIA. 30 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • M A Y 2 0 2 2

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B Y

C H R I S

M c C O Y

“G reat architecture comes

Memphis architect Barry Yoakum’s Harbor Town home, Civitas, is a groundbreaking glimpse into the future.

from great constraints,” says Barry Yoakum, FAIA. Many young artists believe that absolute freedom is vital to maximizing creativity. But as the lead partner at archimania, Yoakum understands that the blank slate doesn’t exist in the real world. “The way we in this firm practice, we embrace those constraints,” he says. “Because the minute we understand the constraints, we know we can actually do a great job.” Yoakum learned the art of constraints early. In 1974, when he entered the University of Tennessee’s acclaimed architecture program, the world was feeling the effects of the first oil shock, when an embargo tripled the price of oil in a matter of months. Yoakum, then an 18-year-old who described himself as a “gear head,” began to think in new ways about energy. “I had a muscle car, and I knew what it did immediately.” The architecture community found itself scrambling to adapt to a new world of scarcer energy. “They had to start teaching differently,” says Yoakum. “My immediate education became professors starting to figure out that we had to do more passive approaches. So my career has always been focused on doing more with less.” He sees parallels in the current

situation, when, after a long period of inexpensive fossil fuels, the Russian invasion of Ukraine has once again sent the cost of energy skyrocketing. “What’s happened in the last few months — the good side of it — is that people are asking, ‘Why are we dependent [on fossil fuels]? What do we do to make ourselves independent?’ We make ourselves dependent, but we don’t have to, if we want to control it.”

Climates, Large and Small

I t’s no secret that Planet Earth is getting hotter, and the reason is carbon dioxide. Every time we burn natural gas for warmth, coal for electricity generation, and gasoline for transportation, we dump waste carbon into the air. It’s a big planet, so increasing the concentration of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere from 280 parts per million, where it was at the beginning of the Industrial Revolution, to 420 ppm, where it is now, may not seem like a big deal, but it is. Carbon dioxide traps heat, and more of it is in the atmosphere now than in the past 14 million years. If we want to continue to live on a planet that will allow such essential endeavors as growing food, we have to stop burning fossil fuels. Building construction and opera-

right: Yoakum set out to design a new home that would produce more energy than it consumed. Civitas met the AIA 2030 challenge ten years early, becoming the first net-zero single-family home in the world. M A Y 2 0 2 2 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 31

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H A B I TAT S

above: Civitas stands out among the homes of Harbor Town. In 2020, the solar panels on the roof produced 17 percent more electricity than the home consumed. The excess energy is stored in a battery which can power the house for up to a week in emergencies.

tion produces 39 percent of the world’s carbon emissions, according to the United Nations Environmental Programme. Architects like Yoakum know that’s not sustainable. He and his colleagues have been working for years to make the buildings they design cleaner and more energy efficient. In 2016, Yoakum’s professional interests merged with a new chapter of his personal life when he got married. “We met at church. I had another house. Kathy lived in Collierville with an eight-year-old who is now my son, too.” At the time, Yoakum lived in a Harbor Town house he designed called Sky Cottage, but the couple started planning to build a new home for themselves on a 6,600-square-foot lot he owned on Mud Island. In 2017, the couple attended the American Institute of Architects National Convention in New York, where they learned about the AIA 2030 Challenge, a program whose goal is to create buildings that would emit zero carbon by the end of this decade. For Yoakum, given what

he understood about the urgency of the climate crisis, that was too late. He and his wife agreed to design their new abode to meet the demanding standard. “We were trying to do something a decade early,” he says. What excited Yoakum about the project was that it presented him with the most rigorous set of constraints he had encountered in his long career — and since the result was to be his home, he would have to live with the consequences of either success or failure. “It’s one of the most strenuous standards, that merges high design with high performance,” says Yoakum. “The goal was to keep it within a reasonable budget, so we could learn from it.” He knew he would need to call on all of his experience and creativity, and inspiration came from unlikely sources. “I had been reading a great book [Spacesuit: Fashioning Apollo by Nicholas de Monchaux] about the 21 layers it took to make the Apollo space suit. We were doing research for FedEx, trying to reinvent micro-climates.

If you think about a house, it’s a micro-climate. If you can do that in a suit well enough to keep somebody from dying in space, surely you can do it decently for a house.” Another inspiration was Roger Bannister. For years, conventional wisdom held that it was physically impossible for a human being to run a mile in under four minutes. But in 1954, Bannister, then a 25-year-old medical student, finally did it. Forty-six days later, another runner beat Bannister’s record, proving that the four-minute barrier had always been more psychological than physical. “If we’re serious about decarbonizing the built environment, it can be done and you can do it,” says Yoakum. “It’s about breaking a barrier of thinking.”

Getting to Zero

To figure out how to attain “net zero,” the team at archimania scoured the available research. Yoakum became convinced that it would be possible to exceed the goal, and achieve a “net positive,” where the home produced more

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left: The floors and ceilings are made from an advanced wood material called Cross Laminated Timber (CLT), which combines strength with energy efficiency. The home’s interior design was done by archimania’s in-house team. below: The first floor’s interior courtyard provides plenty of space for entertaining. bottom: A cantilevered awning shades the first floor window glass from the heating rays of the summer sun.

energy than it consumed. “You’ve got to have a really good envelope, you’ve got to produce your own energy at some level, and you really have to have geothermal. That’s three ingredients to get to net positive.” “A really good envelope” means as little air exchange between the inside and outside as possible. This proved to be especially important for a house sited on the banks of the Mississippi River. When he consulted with outside energy efficiency experts, Yoakum says he heard that, while constructing a net-zero home might be feasible somewhere with low humidity like Colorado, or places in Northern California where you could take advantage of coastal breezes, in the sultry South it seemed far-fetched. Yoakum and his team turned to the field of materials science to find a solution. “We brought things that had not been done here before, like structural insulated panels, which are very green, very sustainable, and a very tight envelope,” he says. “So there’s a lot of new materials.” Instead of a typical “balloon M A Y 2 0 2 2 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 33

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H A B I TAT S

above: Movable aluminum scrims provide privacy to the first floor without sacrificing the view. “Most people don’t even know there’s a pool here,” says Yoakum.

structure,” in which a basic framework is covered with nonload-bearing panels, the team chose repurposed steel beams to provide basic support and used a material called Cross Laminated Timber (CLT) to form the floors and ceilings. CLT utilizes wood planks glued together to form panels, which are then layered on top of each other to add thickness. Each additional layer is situated perpendicular to the last, and sealed with a laminate. “Cross laminating builds strength in both directions,” says Yoakum. “It is a structural panel. It’s not a finish.” The CLT panels are easy to work with and, since they’re made of wood, they don’t add to the home’s carbon footprint. The archimania team were so impressed with CLT they immediately began to use it in other projects, such as The Grove at Germantown Performing Arts Center. For much of the exterior, Yoakum chose coated aluminum panels. Aluminum can be recycled, but the process is very energy intensive, which worked against the carbon-free goal. But Yoakum says the white material helps reflect the bright summer sun, and its

durability sealed the deal. “These panels are shielding this thing for life,” he says. “Even if the coat starts to wear off after 50 years, it’s aluminum under there, so it will continue to be white at some level. We think it’ll age really lovely.”

Sun King

The key to Yoakum’s second factor — producing your own energy — is solar power. Fifty-nine solar panels line the home’s multi-layered roof. Most of them charge the 9.8-kilowatt battery array that powers the house. Two solar arrays feed the electricity they produce back into the grid, which TVA buys through the Distributed Power Production program. Yoakum says that while they have a contract to sell energy to TVA, “they disbanded it right after we finished our house.” He thinks that was a big mistake. “We need TVA back in the game, and I think TVA needs us as a collective.” The third factor that proved critical in reaching net zero was a geothermal heat pump. The relatively new technology takes advantage of the fact that temperatures remain stable underground. Loops of pipes

are sunk 29 feet into the ground and filled with a mixture of water and antifreeze, which circulate constantly. In the winter, it’s warmer underground than above ground, so the system harvests heat from below. In the summer, it’s cooler underground, so the earth acts as a massive heat sink. The heat pump maintaining the temperature inside the home saves a lot of energy, but it doesn’t solve the problem of the dreaded Memphis humidity. “You have to face the fact that we’re going to have high humidity, and we have to change that,” says Yoakum. “You can’t just depend on ocean breezes.” To reduce the indoor moisture load, the team focused on any home’s biggest source of humidity — the bathroom. They decided to isolate the shower, bath, and toilet area from the rest of the envelope and vent the extra humid air directly to the exterior. With these and other technologies, such as radiant floor heating and a system that funnels rainwater from the roof to create what Yoakum calls “a big refrigerator on top of the house,” the team thought they had cracked the zero-carbon problem. But would it all work as planned? Yoakum acknowledges, “We were a little concerned for the year we were going through it. Are we going to make it? We have data and everything, but some of it’s still projections. You can’t determine exactly how much sunshine you get.”

Civitas

Yoakum sketched the initial plan

for the three-story, 2,700-squarefoot home freehand. The first floor would be wide and long, with massive windows. “I like to think cinematically,” he says, with widescreen views of the river. To prevent the heating summer sun from penetrating the glass frontage, the windows are set back behind a wide, cantilevered ledge that shades the interior spaces “like a baseball cap.” The lower floor’s interior is usually visible from the street, but a series of aluminum scrims can be quickly wheeled into place when the occupants desire

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left: Yoakum calls the second floor stair and hallway a “62-foot-long art gallery.”

more privacy. The front door leads into a long, thin room that serves as kitchen, dining room, and sometimes a home office. “If you’re going to put a kitchen at your front door, it’s got to look not exactly like a kitchen,” he says. The appliances are integrated seamlessly into the walls — and naturally, they are all electric. “We don’t burn any carbon in this house.” Yoakum says the lower floor’s design was meant to blur the line between interior and exterior, and be a space that welcomes visitors. That hospitable spirit is reflected in the house’s name, Civitas, which means “community” in Latin. “I’ve always enjoyed creating things that create dialogue.” The second floor is more private, containing the home’s bedrooms and bathrooms, with smaller windows strategically placed to take advantage of the river views. All the second-floor rooms are connected by a long hallway. “It’s a little wider than a normal hall, maybe, but this

below: Visitors enter through this combination kitchen and dining room. The all-electric appliances are concealed in the cabinets on the left.

is a 62-foot-long gallery.” One skylight on the western end of the hall is strategically placed so that a shaft of light illuminates a sculpture at noon on the summer solstice. The third-floor loft serves as a gym and meditation room. The three stories are connected with both a staircase and an unusual glass elevator system that relies on compressed air rather than cables to move up and down. Yoakum says, “It’s kind of like the Jetsons!”

Putting It to the Test

Civitas was ready in late 2019. As

soon as the family moved in, they immediately began collecting data from sensors placed throughout the house. While other energy-efficiency standards only prescribe what materials and techniques to use in a building, the AIA 2030 award is performance-based — meaning, you have to prove it works in the real world. “We tried to pretty much live like a normal family,” says Yoakum. “We’ve got a son who is a teenager now — he’s 14. So we three were living in a new environment, and we had a year to see how it works.

We’d been doing all kinds of calculations and software programming, trying to be reasonable, but we weren’t trying to dial it down too much. We were trying to determine how you become good stewards of the house, but we didn’t say, okay, we’re only going to take one-minute showers.” Today, after almost three years of habitation, it’s clear that Civitas does work. “There’s a lot of other little subtleties,” says Yoakum, “but our desire was to hit AIA 2030 a full decade early — we wanted to do it in 2020. We did. We occupied the house November 1, 2019. A year later we were 113 percent positive, which means we made 13 percent more energy than we used.” The second year, Yoakum bought a Tesla electric vehicle, which he charges using the home’s solar panels. In 2021, Civitas was 107 percent positive. These numbers are even more remarkable considering that they were achieved during a pandemic when the family was home, using energy almost all the time. The International Living Future Institute declared Civitas the first zero-energy, zero-carbon, single-family home in the world. Archimania immediately used the lessons learned from Civitas to renovate their South Cooper offices, which the AIA confirms is now the second net-zero building in the world. The home has been winning awards and attracting attention — and new clients — from all over the country. “Go call every architect in the U.S. and see who’s done this,” says Yoakum. The answer is, we got there first and second. And I think the reason is the four-minute mile. Nobody believes you can do this, and if you do, they believe it’s outrageously expensive. But we did it, and proved it does not have to be outrageously expensive.”

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THE NEW BROOKS PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE

BY JON W. SPARKS

n 1913, Bessie Vance Brooks hired an architect to create an art museum for the city in her husband’s name. She had written a check for $100,000 (just under $3 million today, and no fundraising required) to make it happen and the building, situated in Overton Park and measuring only 90 by 100 feet, was dedicated in 1916.

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Bessie Vance Brooks

For the next hundred years, Brooks Memorial Art Gallery — now called Memphis Brooks Museum of Art — has been “the jewel box in the park.” Over that time, it took on three major expansions. In 2017, the museum announced plans for another expansion. What surprised many was the notion that the oldest and largest art museum in Tennessee might move out of Overton Park. In fairly short order, Brooks officials said that an agreement with the city would make possible moving the museum Downtown. A public-private partnership would raise more than $100 million to build a new facility on the river bluff, at Front and Union, which is now expected to open in 2025. We spoke with three people in the Brooks’ orbit about the past, present, and future of the museum. Carl Person, president of the museum’s board of directors, has been closely involved for years with the Brooks. Kaywin Feldman was the museum’s director CREDIT S: RENDERING COURT ES Y HERZOG & DE MEURON; BESSIE BROOK S PAINT ING BY CECILIA BE AUX / COURT ES Y MEMPHIS BROOK S MUSEUM OF ART

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Gallery space, the gift shop, and the cafe will be visible from the street on either side of the Front Street entry to the New Brooks. Above the entry will be a theater and on the

roof to the right will be the Riverview Terrace. Above right is the view into the gallery space from the southeast corner of Front Street, and below right is the lobby interior.

from 1999 to 2008 and did much to shape programming at the Brooks. And Phil Schmerbeck is an architect and project manager for Herzog & de Meuron, the international designers of what the museum is calling the New Brooks.

CARL PERSON

erson has long had business interests in the city, particularly Downtown. He’s involved with the ambitious mixed-use project The Walk on Union Avenue as well as the Tom Lee Park redevelopment. He’s on the board of the Carl Person Center City Development Corporation, was board chair of the Downtown Memphis Commission, and is on the board of the Metropolitan Inter-Faith Association. He held management positions at UPS and FedEx before becoming CEO of Customized Solutions, a business consulting firm he founded in 2001. In the early 2000s, Person was introduced to thenBrooks director Feldman. She suggested that with his business background, he should consider joining the museum board. He protested that he knew nothing about art, but she told him, “I don’t really need someone to understand all of the curation about art. I need someone with a business background and a passion for changing lives.” C ARL PERSON PHOTOGR APH COURT ES Y MEMPHIS BROOK S MUSEUM OF ART

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He was hooked. In truth, he knew plenty about visual arts. His best friend was an artist and Person had seen how people reacted to his work. And the prospect of changing lives was irresistible. Now in his second term on the board (he was named president in 2021), Person finds “that this is a perfect seat for me at the perfect time. Not only is the museum transforming, I see Memphis as a whole transforming. It is transforming around arts, culture, diversity, sports, development, our school system — some of the key pillars of the city are all rising up now to be very positive and good. And the museum is perfectly a part of that movement, development, and momentum.” His vision of the future of the Brooks is as ambitious as the proposed new facility. In 10 years, he’d like the museum to be such a draw that visitors would have to make appointments to attend exhibitions. Memphis Mayor Jim Strickland told the Memphis Flyer in 2019 that the Brooks sees about 80,000 people a year, but with the new facility, “We will easily get hundreds of thousands of people a year coming into this great museum.” He says, “The Brooks Museum is a good museum; this is going to make it a really great museum. We need a new building, and building it here on the river bluff and building it here Downtown is going to be incredible.” Person also expects to see an expansion of the museum beyond the building to schools and various communities in the region, including using technology to establish partnerships with other museums around the country. His tenure on the board made him fully cognizant of the issues the museum was facing, both within the institution and in the context of the community. “We were at a crossroads with all of this momentum and growth in Overton Park, with the Levitt Shell and the expansion of the zoo, and then our aging building,” he says. “We had to make a decision if this was the right location for us to expand for the next 100 years. We’re here in the center of the park knowing that the Shell and the zoo were still growing and knowing what the age of the building was and the mismatch of the buildings. Would we invest $100 million in our current location, or was there an opportunity to relocate the Brooks?” In September 2017, then-executive director of the museum, Emily Ballew Neff, and then-board president, Deborah Craddock, announced that the board was adding “the option of relocation, outside Overton Park, to our current list of building options M A Y 2 0 2 2 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 37

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for expansion.” That notion caught a lot of people by surprise. The museum had just celebrated its centennial as one of the major attractions in Overton Park. The announcement said there were concerns that it stay as a “safe, secure, and worthy place.” Person says the Overton Park building had (and still has) issues. “There was going to be an enormous amount of expense just to bring it back up. The HVAC system is aging. Humidifiers go out. We always had problems with maintaining the temperature control in the building — a prohibitor for us to bring very high-end exhibits to the museum, because if you’re not 100 percent sure that it’s temperature-controlled at all times, you are not going to get stuff that would go to the Met. It was just too cost-prohibitive for us to start over.” It didn’t take long for Downtown to emerge as the top candidate for relocation. “Think about being located on the front porch of the city, on the banks of the mighty Mississippi River,” Person says. “You can inhale and exhale on that one alone, right? Think about the Brooks being the beacon of light for the front porch. The National Civil Rights Museum, St. Jude, FedExForum, Beale Street — walking distance to all these locations. It was perfect to me. It made sense.” Then the City of Memphis got behind the idea, so “it became a no-brainer for us as the board to make the decision that Downtown is probably the best location for us to move.” Person says the board was cognizant of the enormity of such a move and was well aware of the fuss made when it was announced that the Mid-South Coliseum would hand off its action to The Pyramid that was built on the river in 1991. “You have to be sensitive to those types of beloved entities and relationships that we’ve had in them, and make sure that we bring that constituency and those lovers of the Brooks Museum along with us.” He says that the challenge is persuading people that it’s not just a move Downtown, but that there will be an expansion of the collections, the catalog, and public space. “I told Mark Resnick, the interim director of the museum, that I want us to focus on the new building as 38 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • M A Y 2 0 2 2

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just a building that happens to have art in it,” he says. “We want to attract people to the building, then they experience the art, and then they walk away saying, ‘Wow, what an amazing experience!’ Right?” Person adds, “I think the museum relocating is in the right place at the right time. And there’s all of the momentum Downtown. If we had tried to do this 10 years ago, I don’t think it would’ve worked.”

KAYWIN FELDMAN

he Brooks of today owes much to the leadership of Feldman, who was the museum’s director from 1999 to 2008. She moved from the Brooks to become director and president of the Minneapolis Institute of Art, and in 2018 was named the fifth director of the National Gallery of Art in Washington, D.C. Her fondness for the Brooks remains strong. “I’m watching from afar,” she says, “but with great love and interest.” She is pleased to see the work done in recent years on projects in the plaza in front of the museum as well as Downtown to engage with the community. Kaywin Feldman “There’s been a progression, and the Brooks just gets better and better at doing so.” She recalls that from her earliest conversations in Memphis, community leaders impressed on her the need for outreach. “When I came in for my very first interview, the trustee driving me in from the airport said the number-one issue for the Brooks was to think about the African-American community and how we become a more inclusive institution,” she says. The process of bringing about changes started with the museum’s collection. “We had a couple of Jacob Lawrence prints and a couple of Romare Bearden prints and that was pretty much the extent of work by African-American artists in the collection,” she says. “That was the initial focus, and I think we did a lot of good work there, and then it quickly spread to exhibitions. I still remember when I first arrived, people would say, ‘Oh, but we did an African gold show 10 years ago and the African-American community didn’t come, so — done that, didn’t work.’ But, one of the lessons I learned in the process is having constant and profound commitment to diversifying the exhibition program. It sometimes meant making difficult choices and raising money in new ways to be able to do that.” The sustained commitment to the program that she championed was crucial. The museum built partnerships around the community, working with different organizations “to cross-pollinate our institutions to bring new and different audiences, both to the Brooks and to the partner organization. The final level we were working at when I left was the board and the donor base. And I think that has continued since.” But even as she made inroads in bringing the Brooks closer to the community,

CREDITS: TOP RENDERINGS COURTESY HERZOG & DE MEURON; K AY WIN FELDMAN PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART

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At left is the view from the Riverview Terrace on the roof. At right is a night view as seen from the Mississippi River.

The proposed structure will have 112,976 square feet, an increase from the current facility’s 86,000 square feet.

the building itself was a vexing problem. “My nine years there were nine years of fighting the facility,” she says. “The challenges were the multiple buildings that had been added to the best of their abilities [at the time], but that didn’t really talk to each other.” Feldman noted that some of those buildings weren’t able to accommodate the collections that the Brooks owned. “A lot of the collection doesn’t live comfortably in the current facility or allow for the best viewing. And it’s not terribly logical for a visitor who hasn’t been there before to figure out the paths, where to go, and how to maneuver. And then all of the deferred maintenance and issues just with the physical structure as well.” Nearly 40 years after it opened, Brooks determined that the jewel needed more space. The first expansion, built in 1955, was designed by Everett Woods. The second was a modern addition of two floors of new galleries, designed by Francis Mah in 1973. Then in 1989 an addition designed by Skidmore, Owings, and Merrill, along with the Memphis firm Askew, Nixon, Ferguson and Wolfe, created a new main entrance and added 32,000 square feet to the building. “I have to highlight the challenges of the Francis Mah addition,” Feldman says, “which I think is a beautiful aesthetic. If we could afford the space to rip out all of the additions that were done to make it usable and keep it as this clean, pure space as Francis Mah originally designed it, that would’ve been ideal. But there wasn’t enough space to show art in that construction. So, as much as I admire the building, it just became impossible to work with.” By the time Feldman left for Minneapolis, a number of master plan studies looked at a variety of possibilities to further expand in the park. While she hasn’t seen enough of the current plan to comment specifically, she believes the move is the right thing to do. “Expanding in the park is really almost impossible,” she says. “There are too many constituents, and all cities need more green space, not less green space. It makes me a bit sad that the history of the institution is there, but that’s merely nostalgia. I think it’s right to associate with Downtown.” She notes the blossoming of Downtown makes the relocation an appealing move. “It’s in an area that could both attract tourists, neighborhoods around Downtown, and office workers. It gives an opportunity for the museum to have a new locus of participation that will be very different from being a Midtown institution. Just watching how Downtown has added these gems, I think that the new Brooks will be another jewel for Downtown Memphis.” Feldman says that the ongoing challenge for the Brooks is its identity. “How is the institution both very much of the place while also attracting exhibitions and projects and collections that bring the world to the Brooks?” she asks. “But the United States is filled with so many terrific regional art museums and there’s a similarity about so many of them. That question of how the Brooks distinguishes itself from other mid-sized museums is one I don’t feel like we ever quite answered while I was there. It’s something out there still, perhaps for the Brooks to really put the finger on PHILIP SCHMERBECK PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY HERZOG & DE MEURON

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how it’s both in the pool of terrific American regional institutions and how it separates itself.” Since she has served as president of the Association of Art Museum Directors and as chair of the American Alliance of Museums, Feldman knows how the Brooks shares issues faced by museums today. “I like to say that the twentieth century for American museums was the century of growth,” Feldman says. “Everything about museums was more: more art, more staff, more gallery space, more attendance. The only metric for museums was growth, and directors and trustees were all held accountable to growth. So, institutions have grown but we are profoundly undercapitalized in American museums. We have not yet figured out the balance of size and funding models. So, American museums hang on this thread and all it takes is something like a pandemic to just devastate them. “And I don’t just mean small and mid-size museums,” she continues. “You’d be shocked by some of the museums in New York, for example, and how often they run deficits and how often their budgets are down to the wire. I worry that we still have a narrative of growth and yet haven’t figured out the funding model for museums. I also worry about sustainability for American museums — environmental sustainability, financial, and then audience and this need to keep diversifying and developing new audiences, so that there’s always a relevance and an audience for the future.”

PHILIP SCHMERBECK

he work of today ’s visionaries at the Brooks is cut out for them: Relocate the museum while keeping it relevant, solvent, and sustainable. Herzog & de Meuron of Basel, Switzerland, and New York City, is the arPhilip Schmerbeck chitecture firm heading up the design of what the museum nicknamed “Brooks on the Bluff ” for a while. Now it’s simply the New Brooks. The firm has a formidable reputation, having won the Pritzker Architecture Prize for its renovation of London’s Tate Modern in 2000. It also did the striking Bird’s Nest Stadium at the 2008 Beijing Olympics, the Pérez Art Museum Miami, and several other notable projects. It has a global standing, but the company is connected locally, collaborating with Memphis-based archimania, the architect of record. Additionally, two of Herzog & de Meuron’s architects working on the project have Memphis connections — Schmerbeck, who attended Germantown High School, and Jack Brough, who went to Ridgeway High School. The charge to the design team was to reimagine the museum on the bluff and determine how to make the New Brooks more accessible, more porous, more inviting to the public, and better able to handle collections and exhibitions. The proposed site is bordered by South Front Street, Union Avenue, Riverside Drive, and Monroe Avenue. Schmerbeck says, “We have a large enough footprint that we can fit the majority of the Brooks’ M A Y 2 0 2 2 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 39

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programming on one level and still have some space,” for the publicly accessible courtyard and areas for non-ticketed experiences. “We felt it was important to create and make a connection back to the level of the street.” In assessing the site, the design team looked at where the advantages were and how it could support a compelling facility. “It’s a publicly owned waterfront,” Schmerbeck says. “Not every city can brag about that. We feel Front Street could be much more activated on the pedestrian side, like Main Street. The Brooks is going to be well-positioned there between Front Street and reconnecting what is missing in the Riverbluff Walkway, which pretty much dies basically at the Cossitt [Library] next to the Riverfront Parking Garage.” The idea of accessibility involves far more than merely complying with the Americans with Disabilities Act regulations. “Accessibility is a larger holistic idea about making a building more inviting and accessible to everyone psychologically and physically,” Schmerbeck says. “It starts with marrying the sidewalk elevation with the interior finish floor, which we can do across the entire site — all of the art galleries, all of the educational programming, and all the non-ticketed experiences. A generous café will operate off of the storefront. The temporary exhibition space, which is a ticketed experience, also is directly adjacent to the Front Street storefront, and then a glass lobby with a porch — the urban living room as some people have dubbed it — as this very inviting first experience at sidewalk elevation.” Upon first entering, visitors will see transparent glass — a preview to the rest of the space — rather than an opaque wall. “You see where you’re going before you open the door — you can see the courtyard before you’ve entered the museum,” he says. “And from that one spot, you can see all of the offerings of the museum, both ticketed and non-ticketed. Providing a visual connection to everything before you’ve walked in the door was the key to making it accessible on the sidewalk level, where the buses are going to drop off school kids or where pedestrians are going to be walking or as a part of the experience along the Riverbluff Walkway, or as a visitor traveling by car — to have as much of that experience on one level. It’s practical and the best way we could lower the threshold between the inside and the outside where they pull the public in.” Schmerbeck says the museum aims to be familiar but not necessarily conventional: “Institutions have come to be perceived as very formal, uninviting structures, whether it’s because they don’t have enough windows, or maybe it’s the scale. We’re trying to create something that, at the scale of the sidewalk, feels appropriately institutional without

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being overpowering. We want something that can’t be positioned anywhere else in any other city.” He says that many urban art institutions are stacked, usually because cities have hemmedin sites and the designers have to go vertical to fit everything in. But the bluff-situated Brooks would have a predominantly one-story structure with a substantial footprint, which, Schmerbeck points out, means its elevation won’t obscure the river view from the city. “And when you see the waterfront from the river or Riverside Drive, the museum then is low-slung to preserve the iconic presentation of the city without blocking the skyline.” Even with all the planning, the process has variables. The project will have to deal with the Canadian National Railway Company because of the tracks along Riverside Drive. “You have to work within the railroad’s easement requirements, Schmerbeck says. “Fortunately, it’s not the most active rail corridor, but it is an important one.” That’s the rail line also used by Amtrak’s City of New Orleans train linking Chicago to New Orleans. Another requirement will be seismic testing. “You don’t know what’s in the ground until you start digging,” Person says. “With the cost of building this museum, we’ve also got contingency plans to scale back a little bit in case we run into what we call unknowns.” Schmerbeck notes that seismic issues are mitigated to an extent by the structural design. “There is an efficiency about having a lower-slung building,” he says. “Lower to the ground helps us for sure.” And then there’s the bluff itself, which has about a 30-foot grade change from Front to Riverside. “That’s an interesting design challenge,” Schmerbeck says, “but an opportunity because we have to have a very functional and convenient, safe, and secure load-in configuration. We can actually back a full 85foot truck completely into the building off the street. Many urban art institutions don’t have that luxury.” When Brooks officials announced the intention to move in 2017, a 2024 opening of the Downtown facility was planned. Covid-19 changed that and the hope now is that doors will open in 2025. “There are still supply chain issues that persist in the construction industry,” Schmerbeck says. “Some of those are improving. It’s unclear how much the pricing is going to come back to normal. We lost somewhere between 9 and 12 months just because of the pause, but we’re right back at it. The hope is to get started on some early groundwork by the end of 2022 for a roughly two-year construction period.” Schmerbeck’s ties to Memphis have played a role in his design. He grew up outside Washington, D.C., and his family moved to the Memphis area “just after getting my driver’s

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license.” It was a prime time for him. “I’ve always looked back at it as one of those Renaissance moments because it definitely expanded my understanding of so many things that many of us think of as American that have been influenced by this place. Music, art, literature — so much history has emanated from Memphis.” “My mother is an art educator and I grew up around the Smithsonian Institution,” he says, “but with the conventional understanding of what an art institution is. It’s usually a big house and it’s got no windows in it because art is in it.” Schmerbeck says that “Memphis has always been a place that I’ve referred back to because — as someone who’s always had an urban life — it’s a place where I first understood the problems and the possibilities of what cities are great for. It’s about diversity. It’s about communication. It’s about coming together and experiencing the benefits of living around so many different kinds of folks.” He graduated from Mississippi State University in 1999 with a bachelor of architecture degree. “I eventually made it to New York and then to Switzerland and then back to New York,” he says. “But the projects I worked on have been across North America, east of the Mississippi River. Coming back to Memphis and working on a piece of urban architecture that can do it all is basically a dream project.” Schmerbeck was drawn to the idea that “the Brooks could reactivate the front door to the city and transform what a conventional art institution has meant in the U.S. to something that was more turned inside out — something that can activate exchange between the full spectrum of Memphis inhabitants. At the same time, give a kind of living room to Downtown, like a stepping stone to many of the other great amenities there.” He continues: “It’s going to have a lot more public space and ticketed space, so there’s more possibility for community exchange. We’ve created more physical and visual porosity to the heart of the project. And the center of the project is essentially a public plaza. All the art experience is really at Front Street elevation. That’s the ideal scenario for a public, accessible facility. You walk in and you don’t have to go up or down the stairs. There are other floors, but in terms of all the art gallery space, the vast majority of the public space is at the block level.” From his vantage point on the museum’s board and as a dedicated Memphian, Person says it’s going to be for everybody and compares it to the community’s love of the Grizzlies. “There are people that may sit beside you that are unemployed, or there may be billionaires, but you’re all cheering for the same team,” he says. “We want everybody to come.”

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PHOTOGR APH BY DARK1ELF / DRE AMS T IME

4/14/22 1:19 PM

Triaging the Nursing Shortage Covid exacerbated an already tough situation, but locals are fighting back. BY TOBY SELLS

urses are the lifeblood of healthcare, but that blood supply has been at crisis-level for some time. If left untreated, the

shortage could have dire consequences for the industry and for patients. The reasons for the shortage — from inconvenient shift hours to the threat of physical violence from patients angry about government mandates — are as varied and complex as the solutions to the problem. Much of this was happening before the Covid-19 pandemic. That just made it all worse. If you haven’t needed a nurse recently, consider the longer, post-pandemic wait times it took (and maybe still does take) to get your favorite dish at your favorite restaurant. Staffing shortages in the food service industry are, in some ways, analagous to those experienced in hospitals and clinics across Memphis and the country. But, needless to say, the stakes are so much higher in healthcare. They can be life-threatening. “What we’re at risk of in our crisis is the lack of care that hospitals exist for,” says Dr. Wendy Likes, dean of the College of Nursing at the University of Tennessee Health Sciences Center (UTHSC), “which is caring for the sickest of the sick.” Healthcare leaders are fighting to stem the tide. Financial incentives — pay raises, sign-on bonuses, and the like — have been prevalent, especially during the pandemic. But some leaders call these incentives unsustainable. They are looking beyond money to help students choose nursing, help recruit graduates, and keep them nursing in Memphis.

PHOTOGR APH BY KIOSE A39 / DRE AMS T IME

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patients have already felt it, pointing to hours-long encampments in emergency waiting rooms before ever seeing scrubs or a lab coat.

THE GRE AT BURNOUT

Registered nurse Westley King (left) and clinical director Anita Larkin, also a registered nurse, make the rounds at Methodist University Hospital.

alk to enough nursing veterans and they’ll say there’s always been a nursing shortage. Staffing, in general, deals in human resources, and humans are complex, driven by a litany of desires, life situations, priorities, and more. Covid-19 turned up the heat on all of them. Linda Hughlett, chief nursing officer at Regional One Health, says about 75 percent of nurses around the country in 2020 just decided they were going to do “something different,” be it travel nursing (more on this later), or quitting nursing entirely for fear of bringing Covid home to their families. Then, 2021 came around. “I call it The Great Burnout,” Hughlett says. “People were exhausted.” Long hours, a dangerous workplace, and a seemingly Linda Hughlett never-ending line of very sick (and sometimes dying) patients compelled many nurses to search for a door to their next job. But the pandemic alone didn’t cause the nursing shortage. “This is not something that happened because of the pandemic, but certainly the pandemic absolutely exacerbated it,” says Nikki Polis, chief nursing executive SUPPLY, DEMAND, AND COVID-19 with Methodist Le Bonheur ursing is being stretched at both ends. Healthcare. “People stayed Demand is heading to a record high. Supply is home to care for their famexpected to sink soon and some experts fear it could ily. Some of them were of the ‘sandwich generation’ happen with a roller-coaster drop. On the demand side, one set of federal data shows with their children and even the nursing workforce will grow from 3 million in their parents at home. They 2019 to 3.3 million in 2029, up 7 percent. Another set were trying to work and [take care of their family] of data says 194,500 jobs for nurses will be open each year until at least 2030, an increase of 9 percent needed and decided to stop working in the workforce. or, perhaps, working fewer Nikki Polis The demand side will be pushed, largely, by aging hours per week.” Baby Boomers. They’ll need more healthcare as they A late-2021 report from Incredible Health, a nationage, and federal data say the United States now has the al nurse staffing firm, revealed that 34 percent of the highest number of Americans over the age of 65 than at nurses surveyed said they planned to quit their job by any other time in history. In 2029, the last Baby Boomer the end of 2022. Nearly half of them (44 percent) cited will reach retirement age, government burnout and the job’s high-stress environThe demand side will data say, resulting in a 73 percent increase ment for their decision. A smaller portion be pushed, largely, by from the 41 million recorded in 2011. (27 percent) said they were leaving because aging Baby Boomers. On the supply side, about 176,000 of low benefits and pay. nurses — many Baby Boomers themSome nurses, though, said they weren’t On the supply side, selves — are expected to retire in this leaving the vocation. About 40 percent of about 176,000 nurses decade. A third of U.S. nurses are over those surveyed said they would leave their the age of 50. They won’t all retire on current job to nurse in a different venue. — many Baby Boomers the same day, of course, but likely within More than half (58 percent) of those who themselves — are the same decade, taking their decades of left their job in 2021 told surveyors they found expected to retire experience with them. a job with better pay and that was the motiin this decade. vating factor for leaving. In all, the U.S. will likely need almost 400,000 more nurses this decade just to keep up, accordMany of these, surely, found work as travel nurses. ing to figures from the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. These nurses are connected to staffing agencies that But many say we’re already behind. They say, too, that find them work all over the country. They go where

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PHOTOGR APH CREDIT S: TOP LEF T AND BOT TOM INSE T COURT ES Y ME T HODIS T LE BONHEUR HE ALT HC ARE; TOP INSE T COURT ES Y REGIONAL ONE HE ALT H

4/14/22 1:19 PM

2022

is a special year to celebrate the rich history of the Department of Veterans Affairs (VA) Healthcare System in Memphis, Tennessee and the dedication to excellence that continues today. August 14, 2022 will mark the 100 year anniversary of the Memphis VA Healthcare System, which has served as a leader in health care since opening its doors on August 14, 1922 as a general medical/surgical hospital. In 2022, we celebrate those 100 years of leadership, advocacy, education, communication, and quality and safety improvement to meet our primary goal—to care for the health care needs of veterans. A public commemoration in recognition of this milestone will be held in August. Leading up to this special occasion, throughout the year, highlights about the history of the Memphis VA Healthcare System will be shared. You are invited to learn about and celebrate the past, present, and future of our local healthcare system and continued commitment to serving veterans.

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ravel nurses, simply called “The Travelers” by many, are heralded as entrepreneurs with a sense of adventure. They’re also derided as “mercenaries” in the nurse-shortage battle. Travel nurses may be a cause of the current nursing shortage. But they are not the cause. And travel nurses are nothing new in the healthcare industry. For years, they’ve filled a need, helping short-staffed hospitals deliver care on-demand. But collectively, they’ve long been divisive, especially among local nurses, who often earn far less money than travel nurses. They’ve been thorny for administrators, too, who worry that their lack of connection to the community can result in a lower quality of care.

Most nurses (77 percent) said they saw more travel nurses in their units last year. Nearly a third of them (32 percent) said this made them feel extremely dissatisfied, ranking pay differences as the number-one reason. — Incredible Health Survey At Regional One Health, staff nurses were offered financial incentives. More money would help with burnout, Hughlett said, but it would also help to salve the sting of the pay disparity between them and the travel nurses brought in to help. “Here I am with the same credentials, with the same job description, and you’re getting triple — sometimes quadruple — the amount of money I was getting,” Hughlett says of some of the local nurses’ attitudes toward the travel nurses. “So, a lot of them were really disgruntled.” This attitude bears out nationally in that Incredible Health survey, with the group saying, “Travel nurses remain a flashpoint issue.” Most nurses (77 percent) said they saw more travel nurses in their units last year. Nearly a third of them (32 percent) said this made them feel extremely dissatisfied, ranking pay differences as the number-one reason. Regarding those salaries, Likes says, “we’ve never seen anything like this” and she does not believe that the rates are sustainable for hospitals going forward. Hughlett says they were brought in at Regional One Health as a Band-Aid to cover Covid’s volume of patients. When they ripped that bandage off, a “greater hemorrhage” of dollars followed, “because we’d gotten [nurses] accustomed to this money.” But the travel-nurse issue is about more than money. They come and go, creating constantly shifting work environments for local

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nurses. For this reason and others, Hughlett says, Regional One Health got rid of all of its travel nurses, saying, without them, harm events — hospital jargon for actually making patients feel worse, not better — go down. “They don’t have to be here with you. They don’t have to see these patients in Kroger or Costco. They’re going on to their next greatest incentive. We’ve got to have a stopping point to say, ‘Enough is enough.’” This sentiment rose around the country, enough that national healthcare associations have asked Congress for an investigation into possible price gouging of nurse staffing agencies. But Polis, from Methodist, strikes a more hopeful tone about the future of the Travelers. “I’m crossing my fingers and we’re really looking forward to those people who left to travel to come back,” she says. “I hope they’ve really benefited from the experiences they had in other paces and learn from them [and come back].”

PIVOTING

ust as there are myriad reasons nurses leave, healthcare leaders are investing in myriad programs to bring them back. Some of them are complex and some of them are crazy simple. But not all of them involve money. Hiring fairs seem like a natural tool for recruitment. Polis wants to make them even more effective and the hiring process even easier, especially since those events can be the very first connections the hospital system makes with its future employees. So, they bring a nurse (or someone like them) to do the needed health screenings (for Covid, drugs, and certain contagious diseases) for the job there on the spot, removing a possibly complicated hurdle. Methodist Healthcare keeps its pay and benefits competitive, Polis says. But it also offers health and wellness benefits like yoga classes, sessions on mindfulness, exercise groups, and more. And, she adds, Methodist also continually looks at how to improve the work. “For example, we’re looking at schedule flexibility, shorter shifts, and programs where, if you’re a working parent, perhaps you’ll only work certain [shifts] seasonally, during the time your children are at school,” Polis says. “Also, how do we streamline processes and use technology? Or, how do we create new positions that we’ll need in the future? “All of this is about really reinvigorating and reimagining how we do the work we do — always with our patients and families at the forefront of all we do.” At Regional One Health, Hughlett says they are attracting a growing number of nurses with an innovative nurse residency program that fuels their professional growth.

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Our nurses are a blessing. Nurses are more than healers. They share our pains, our fears and our hopes. And by taking on our burdens, they make our recovery that much easier. Baptist recognizes the amazing work our nurses perform, without hesitation, every day. And we are eternally grateful for them. Celebrating National Nurses Week and honoring those who have dedicated their lives to improving ours.

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The program offers nurses access to the experiences of the hospital’s diverse patient-care settings, from its Neonatal Intensive Care Unit, to its Burn ICU, and its regionally unmatched Level-1 Trauma Center. Hughlett says 80 nurses applied in the first selected group last year and the hospital accepted 57. More than 100 applied for the next cohort, she said, so the program is growing. “Your pipeline is now rebuilt and you’re not spending an exhausted amount of financial resources [noting that Regional One Health is a public, safety-net hospital] to do it,” Hughlett said. “So, it’s people who are not here because of the money. They’re here because they want to build a professional acumen that will enrich their professional growth.” Both Polis and Hughlett say one simple recruitment and retention tool will help them during the nursing shortage: communication. Through various programs, they have opened their ears to the desires, needs, and concerns of their nurses. Be it surveys or floor visits from administrators, Pilos says, “We really upped our game during the pandemic” on communication at Method-

Both Polis and Hughlett say one simple recruitment and retention tool will help them during the nursing shortage: communication.

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ist, while Hughlett’s unit was reminded to keep “the main thing [their nursing team], the main thing.” To grow the nurse workforce in Memphis, UTHSC is at the top of the funnel. Its job is to attract more students to the profession and prepare them for a job afterward at hospitals like Methodist or Regional One Health. Enrollment at nursing schools is up across the country, according to the latest data from the American Association of Colleges of Nursing. But Likes says enrollment is down in some programs at UTHSC, due in part to Covid fatigue and the lure of those big travel-nurse dollars. Plans to increase enrollment at UTHSC began before the pandemic, Likes says. Beginning this fall, the school will offer a traditional Bachelor of Science in Nursing (BSN) program. This program will offer two classes of 48 students for a total of 96 each year. The school is also offering a “fast-paced” baccalaureate program that can prepare students for the nursing workforce in a year. Both programs are buoyed with scholarships from local hospitals to help students pay for tuition in exchange for commitments to work in them after school. “It’s an amazing opportunity for our students to come out debt-free and for them to get to know their future employers and get acclimated in their culture and their ways of work,” Likes says. “It’s also a great opportunity to anchor them to our community.”

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4/14/22 5:38 PM

memphis area master gardeners

“ through our garden gates” — p r e s e n t —

Saturday, June 4 from 9 AM – 4 PM.

To be held rain or shine. • Free tour — open to the public, all ages welcome. • Five wonderful gardens, differing in design, style, size, and features. You will be inspired with ideas to create your own garden oasis.

• Plant lists, labeled plants, educational displays and garden docents will enhance your visit. • Garden experts on hand to answer any gardening question. • Plein Air artists creating original works of art in each garden.

For more information, including directions, visit

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4/14/22 5:40 PM

R OA D

T R I P

on the Flyi

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4/13/22 11:27 AM

A weekend getaway to Music City offers pleasant surprises. BY BRUCE VANW YNGARDEN

y wife, Tatine, and I roll into the spacious and inviting lobby of Loews Vanderbilt around 6 p.m. on

April Fool’s Day, a Friday that will kick off our weekend in Tennessee’s capital city. As we approach the reception desk, the sounds of a female voice singing a twangy version of “Brown Eyed Girl” spill from an adjoining room. I’m greeted by a friendly young woman who looks at my ID and says, “Welcome to Loews Vanderbilt, Mr. VanWyngarden.” “Thank you,” I reply. Then, nodding in the direction of the music and then my wife, I say, “Hey, did you know she wrote this song?” thinking, it’s April Fool’s, what the heck. The receptionist gives me an inscrutable smile, unlike Tatine, who offers a wifely eye-roll and her signature, “Are you kidding me?” look. But all is well with the reservation and the nice young woman smiles again and says we’re all set. So, off to our room we go. I take it as a good sign that Bob Dylan’s “Like a Rolling Stone” is the elevator music.

clockwise from top left: Cheekwood in bloom; Crawling Lady Hare by Sophie Ryder, 1997; Family sitting room; A Portrait of Andy Warhol by Jamie Wyeth, 1976; Cheek Mansion exterior; Fiber-optic lighting in mansion stairwell. PHOTO CREDITS (IN ABOVE ORDER): BRUCE VANWYNGARDEN, BRIAN GROPPE, TATINE DARKER, BRUCE VANWYNGARDEN, TATINE DARKER, BRIAN GROPPE.

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T R I P Our room is splendid — spacious, smartly appointed with Nashville- and music-themed artwork, and offers a great view of the setting sun and Vanderbilt University’s Amsterdam-looking red-brick campus buildings across West End Avenue. I like this place. Figuring it was too late to get a reservation elsewhere around town, we decide to eat at Mason’s Restaurant in the hotel, which is

At a nearby table, we spy our first Nashville bachelorette party of the weekend: five young women identically dressed in short denim overalls, gingham shirts, straw hats, and cowboy boots. They are having a large, happy time. I hope they tip well, and find the party wagon of their dreams.

above right: Tatine Darker relaxes at Loews Vanderbilt. below: The District on Broadway at N. 5th Avenue in downtown Nashville.

next to the lobby, where the music was coming from earlier. The singer is still there as we are seated, now crooning a countryfied version of “Take Another Little Piece of My Heart,” which is better than you’d think it would be. In fact, by the time I’ve finished

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my “Late Bloomer” cocktail (a delightful gin, bitters, Prosecco concoction) a few songs later, the singer — whose name, I learn, is Hali Hicks — has definitely started to grow on me. Tatine and I sample two appetizers — the tuna tartare tacos, and the kale-and-artichoke dip with f latbread — and finish with a greenhouse salad and the Springer Mountain chicken entrée. It’s all quite delish. And so is the people-watching.

Near the bar, a wedding reception has spilled over, with lots of tuxedos, shiny cocktail dresses, and other evening finery. And, at a nearby table, we spy our first Nashville bachelorette party of the weekend: five young women identically dressed in short denim overalls, gingham shirts, straw hats, and cowboy boots. They are having a large, happy time. I hope they tip well, and find the party wagon of their dreams.

PHOTOGRAPH CREDITS: TOP BY BRUCE VANWYNGARDEN; BOTTOM BY GLENN NAGEL / DREAMSTIME

4/13/22 11:23 AM

SATURDAY

heekwood Estate and Gardens is a 55-acre botanical garden and art museum located on the historic Cheek estate in the Belle Meade neighborhood, not far from our hotel. Originally built in 1929 as the home of Leslie and Mabel Cheek, it was converted into an art museum and botanical garden in 1960, and now welcomes around 300,000 visitors a year. I had read that the spring bulbs were in full bloom this week, so we’d decided to take advantage of our lucky timing and go. It turns out to be the tenth anniversary of “Cheekwood in Bloom,” an annual flower show that this year features 100,000 tulips, 100,000 daffodils, and thousands more violas and hyacinths. The flowers are planted on a gentle slope with walking paths that lead down to a valley with small ponds. The effect is spectacular, with waves of shimmering color almost as far as the eye can see, the blooms’ intensity enhanced by the morning’s overcast sky. Cheekwood offers a lot to see — var too much for one morning’s visit. As we take pictures and slowly ooh-and-ahh our way down to the ponds, we decide to save the sculpture trail, Japanese garden, and culinary garden for another visit, and head toward the mansion/gallery, which is set atop a nearby hill. The home is a massive stone edifice surrounded by pools and fountains and dense plantings of flowers, topiary, and trees. The house itself has several wings and at least three levels. As we enter, we ascend a flight of stairs to the second floor, where several rooms along a central corridor are appointed in period furnishings with family portraits and mementos. Other rooms are like miniature galleries and hold eclectic collections of painting and sculptures, old and new. One wall features a striking mannerist portrait of Andy Warhol, while across the room are 1940s nature prints, and down the hall, a collection of modernist glass-ball sculptures

above right: The landmark Ryman Auditorium was for decades home of the Grand Ole Opry. above: Close to the Ryman, the National Museum of African American Music

PHOTOGRAPH CREDITS: ALL PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BY BRUCE VANWYNGARDEN

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offers detailed, informative, and interactive displays that provide visitors with an incredible experience. Its mission statement explains: “As the only museum in the nation with a dedicated focus

on the impact of African-American music, NMAAM strengthens and diversifies the ‘Music City’ brand with compelling connections to local and national musical distinctions.”

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3 4

7 MUST-SEE DESTINATIONS FOR YOUR ARKANSAS ROAD TRIP

COLER MOUNTAIN BIKE PRESERVE BENTONVILLE This bike park is just five minutes from downtown and offers more than 17 miles of trails for every skill level.

and other pop art pieces. The total effect is a bit kaleidoscopic; there are no dull rooms. The downstairs chambers and lower level “game room” are also filled with interesting art and family artifacts. If I had to make a Memphis comparison, I’d say Cheekwood Estates is like The Dixon Gallery and Gardens on steroids. By the time we take the long walk back to our car, it’s early afternoon and Tatine wants to hit some vintage shops to continue her life-long pursuit of the perfect pair of jeans. Siri helpfully suggests a few and off we go, first to the East End neighborhood on the far side of downtown. East End is an area that’s always reminded me of Midtown Memphis, with its Craftsman bungalows and eclectic shops and restaurants, but a housing boom is afoot and things are changing. Tall, skinny new houses and modernist glass-and-slab apartment buildings are popping up all over. Tatine checks

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Crispy goat cheese at the Hathorne. the Zillow listings on her phone and shows me a small, ordinary-looking two-bedroom house selling for $499,000. Yikes. After a visit to Hip Zipper Vintage, a quick loop around the interstate back to the west side of downtown brings us to a couple of stores south of Vanderbilt. While Tatine browses Starland Vintage, I opt for Love Peace & Pho, a little Vietnamese place just down the block that I’ve always liked. The rich bowl of noodles and fresh herbs is the perfect pick-me-up after a long morning of walking. Go, if you’re in the neighborhood. At slow times during the day (aka waiting for Tatine to try on stuff ), I keep trying to book a reservation for dinner. I have a list of recommended places from friends, and I would gladly return to a couple restaurants we’ve visited before, but all are either booked or only have very late or very early reservations available. Dang it, Nashville. Give a visitor a break. Who wants to eat at 5:30 p.m? Or 9:30 p.m? Finally, I decide to just go with the flow and

The MidSouth Nostalgia Festival Whispering Woods Hotel and Conference Center Olive Branch, MS JUNE 9 - 11, 2022 Veteran actors from classic movies and TV shows appearing in person such as Jerry Mathers and Tony Dow from "Leave It To Beaver," Robert Fuller from "Laramie," "Wagon Train," and "Emergency!," Buck Taylor from "Gunsmoke," Patrick Wayne, who worked with his dad, John, in "McLintock!," "Big Jake," and others, Chris Mitchum, son of Robert, who also worked with The Duke" in "Big Jake" and "Rio Lobo," Claude Jarman, Jr. who starred in "The Yearling," "Intruder in the Dust," and "Rio Grande" with John Wayne, Jennifer O'Neill from "Summer of '42" and "Rio Lobo" plus other guests as well. Learn about these stars' historic careers, get their autographs, and be entertained by Memphis D.J. Alex Ward and singer Rob Haynes. Go to MidSouthNostalgiaFestival.com or the festival's Facebook page for information about registration and pricing. You can also call 501-499-0444.

PHOTOGRAPH BY BRUCE VANWYNGARDEN

4/13/22 11:23 AM

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make a 6:30 p.m. reservation at a place called Hathorne. It’s a little earlier than we’d prefer for dinner, but the menu looks interesting and it’s 10 minutes from our hotel. This is a good call, though the place is a bit off the beaten path and the location — between an old church and a McDonald’s — is incongruous, to say the least. The interior of Hathorne is simple, spacious, and well-lit. The menu by chef Chris Gass is precocious, with small plates such as charred sourdough (with ricotta), crudo (with cobia, blood orange, mandarin, and white soy), crispy goat cheese (with pickled fennel and hibiscus honey), and smoked scallop agnolotti (with beer brodo, beurre noisette, and seaweed). You get the idea. This isn’t Applebee’s, and there are lots of vegetarian options. After surveying the menu at length, we decide to go all in on the small plates and order six of them, because we are wild and crazy kids. And, as we always tell ourselves, it’s a

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good way to “save room for dessert.” Ha ha. Our server is professional, friendly, and knowledgeable about the menu, including the nice glass of Jermann pinot grigio he suggests to accompany my meal. Hathorne also has an extensive cocktail and mocktail menu. We taste and sample and pass the plates and thoroughly enjoy our adventurous repast, finishing dinner — and our Saturday — with brioche doughnuts and vegan espresso cake.

SUNDAY

e have a 10 a.m. reservation at the National Museum of AfricanAmerican Music. I should add that I also have a reservation about the museum itself, mainly because it doesn’t seem like the kind of venue that ought to be in Nashville, which, compared to our hometown to the west, isn’t exactly known as a wellspring of African-American culture. My Memphis mojo was feeling a little skeptical. Apparently, I’m not the only one who’s had these thoughts. Near the top of the PHOTOGRAPH BY BRUCE VANWYNGARDEN

4/13/22 11:23 AM

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museum’s “Mission and Vision” section of its website, in large bold letters, is the question: “Why Nashville?” Here’s their answer: “Historically, Tennessee was the center of the Great Migration, when approximately 6 million African Americans left the South — with their musical traditions in tow — to relocate to large cities and other areas of the Northeast, Midwest, and Western states. … We’re preserving the history of America’s soundtrack in a place where music is truly celebrated on a daily basis.As the only museum in the nation with a dedicated focus on the impact of African-American music, NMAAM strengthens and diversifies the ‘Music City’ brand with compelling connections to both local and national musical distinctions. The Fisk Jubilee Singers, Jimi Hendrix, Ray Charles, and Little Richard are just a few of the pioneering artists who were a part of the Nashville music scene in the early stages of their career.” Okay, I think, but New Orleans, Detroit, and Memphis would probably like to have a word with y’all.

The journey from African percussion to hip-hop and all points in between is an amazing and complex one, and the National Museum of African-American Music does a credible and entertaining job of documenting it — and making it accessible to all.

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The NMAAM is located in the very heart of downtown Nashville, just off Broadway on what used to be Fifth Avenue, and what is now named Congressman John L. Lewis Way. The backside of the storied Ryman Auditorium is just across the street, and Kid Rock’s Big Ass Honky Tonk is way too close for comfort. We find a parking garage nearby and walk toward the museum. Downtown Nashville is bumping on this sunny Sunday morning — shoppers, gawkers, and tourists of all stripes are wandering the sidewalks, hitting the shops and restaurants, snapping selfies. This is not like a downtown Sunday morning in the city where we live, and we are impressed. It was the first of several surprises ahead of us. The second being that the NMAAM is pretty darn great, and you should go the next time you’re in Nashville. It’s located in the lower level of a nice glass-fronted building and it is definitely a legitimate attraction. As we descend the steps to the reception area, we are struck by how bustling it is. Three or four dozen people are standing in line or waiting for tours. We confirm our reservation and pick up interactive wristbands. A helpful associate shows us how to use them to download songs to our phones as we go through the museum. This sounds cool, and we’re eager to get started, but first there’s a short film. It is really well done, tracing African-American music from the drum-roots rhythms of Africa through field hollers, spirituals, blues, ragtime, jazz, bebop, rhythm and blues, rock-and-roll, and hip-hop.

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The full spectrum of African Americans’ contribution to our musical culture is laid out beautifully and inspiringly in 12 minutes or so, and prepares visitors for what’s to come. The museum flows in a roughly chronological order from room to room, with lots of necessary overlap in genres and artists. In the center of each room are tables with multiple sets of headphones. Each table has pictures of artists from the era of the room. When you put on headphones and click the picture of an artist, one of their signature songs begins to play. You’re then linked to other artists they are connected to — whether as an influence, a peer, or someone who later took inspiration from them. I click on Etta James and see that her influences included Ma Rainey and Billie Holiday, among others, and that she in turn influenced

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The National Museum of African American Music salutes the contributions of Chuck Berry, Michael Jackson, and Beyoncé. Tina Turner, Aretha Franklin, Beyoncé, and even Elvis. And if you click on any of those artists, you can download their songs. It’s easy to get lost in here. The NMAAM offers, as one might expect, the usual music-museum artifacts: costumes, posters, guitars, album covers, and hundreds of wonderful photos. You might not expect a room where you are invited to dance along to concert footage, or a booth where you can make your own beats and test your flow. There’s a giant screen where I watched Prince play “Purple Rain” in concert and almost cried because he was just so damn good. The journey from African percussion to hip-hop and all points in between is an amazing and complex one, and the National Museum of African American Music does a credible and entertaining job of documenting it — and making it accessible to all. As we aim the trusty Subaru back toward Memphis and glide onto i-40, Tatine plugs her phone into the sound system and we are carried home by the songs of Howlin’ Wolf, T-Bone Walker, Etta James, Mavis Staples, Salt-N-Pepa, Prince, Jon Batiste, and many others. It’s a wonderful souvenir of a great weekend in “Music City.” Well played, Nashville. PHOTOGRAPH BY BRUCE VANWYNGARDEN

4/15/22 3:09 PM

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AS K

VA N C E

Pritchard Brothers Plumbing Our history expert solves local mysteries: who, what, when, where, why, and why not. Well, sometimes.

DEAR VANCE: I’m restoring an old building at 433 Madison and hoped you could tell me something about its history.

— F.T., MEMPHIS.

above: Fred and Albert Pritchard would surely be pleased that their plumbing company building has survived, its exterior relatively unchanged, for more than a century.

two fellows weren’t related to the company F.T. has inquired about. Instead, I will devote this column to Pritchard Brothers Plumbing, and the two brothers who started that firm were J. Fred Pritchard and Albert L. Pritchard. Both gentlemen were born in the 1870s in Joliet, Illinois, and came to Memphis around 1890. According to the old city directories, in 1900 the brothers teamed up with a partner, James Evans, to open a plumbing, steam, and gas-fitting company. This was located at 71 Union Avenue — not 433 Madison. So this brings up more confusion about the history of this company: How old is the fine-looking building on Madison? The Shelby County Assessor’s website gives a construction date of 1903, and this same date is repeated in other stories I’ve encountered about the Pritchards. I don’t think that’s correct, and let me explain why. According to old city directories, from 1900 to 1915, the property at 433 Madison was a private home, owned by a series of five different families over the years. The homeowners included a barkeeper for the Gaston Hotel, a clerk for the Southern Railway, and a barber. In 1906, in fact, that barkeeper, a fellow named James Snell, ran a Commercial Appeal classifieds ad offering “For DEAR F.T.: For years I’ve admired the Pritchard Brothers Rent — one six-room flat with bath, gas heat, attic, Plumbing building, with its white terra-cotta façade, and reception hall.” This must have been a rather large house, if the rental area included a “reception hall.” beautiful stained-glass signage, and matching pair Meanwhile, during this time, those same city direcof black wrought-iron doors. But hold on — a closer look reveals the doors aren’t identical. The left-hand tories show that the Pritchard Brothers had opened door carries the company name in fancy ironwork and their plumbing company Downtown — at 71 Union serveas as the entrance. The right-hand door, a bit less Avenue. Around 1910, they moved to larger facilities a few blocks east at 167 Union. ornate, holds a blue shield with the initial “P” Operating out of and is actually a gate, opening onto to a nar- such a small building, In fact, those same city directories don’t row alley that runs alongside the building. show the Pritchards moving to 433 Madison Pritchard Brothers until 1916, when I presume the homes along These confusion should have been my first took on some of clue that telling the history of this company that block were demolished to make way would be more challenging than I expected. the best-known for businesses. Just next door, to the east, I presumed it would be a simple matter of projects in our city. Nelson Plumbing, Heating, and Mill Supplies finding out who the Pritchard Brothers were, and then offered “steam goods, belting, hose, packing, pipe, fittings, valves, enamelware, soil pipe, and brass goods.” I could share their history by looking through old city That short block of Madison had become a one-stopdirectories, newspapers, and the vast archives of the shop for anybody in Memphis in need of plumbers and Lauderdale Library. plumbing supplies. Well, you can imagine my dismay when I discovered right away that two different companies in Memphis, Operating out of such a small building, Pritchard operating at the same time, were called Pritchard Brothers — still teamed with Evans — took on some of Brothers. What were the chances of that? My hours, the best-known projects in our city. They were mainly days, and weeks of research kept turning up references involved in large, commercial enterprises, and over to both companies, and I got so bewildered that I had to the years, they landed the plumbing contracts for such slump in my La-Z-Boy with a cool towel on my forehead, landmarks as the Municipal (later Ellis) Auditorium, the resting my worn-out brain. Randolph Building, Tech High School, Fairview Junior I finally got it straight. It seems brothers Lewis and High School, Tennessee Ice and Coal Company, First John Pritchard owned a construction firm during the Methodist Church, and Memphis General Hospital. early 1900s and erected homes and even a few office Wait — there’s more. Other projects during the 1920s buildings throughout Memphis. That’s the last time and 1930s included the Adler Hotel, the DeSoto Garage, I’m going to mention them, though, because these the Farnsworth Building (later called the Three Sisters

PHOTOGRAPHS BY FLOYD T YLER

BY VANCE L AUDERDALE

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Building), a large Studebaker dealership on Union, the Park Avenue Masonic Lodge — I mean, the list just goes on and on. The Pritchards did quite well. Albert and his wife, Irma, lived in a nice house at 195 S. Belvedere. Fred and his wife, Mabel, confirmed my theory that, at some point, almost everyone I know or have written about has lived on Harbert. They and their son, Fred Jr., lived at 1800 Harbert. Sometime in the 1930s, Albert Pritchard left the plumbing business to take an executive position with the Commerce Title Company, later moving to the National Bank of Commerce. He remained there until his retirement and passed away in 1956. When Albert left, the remaining brother, Fred, brought his son aboard. This was a smart move. A graduate of Georgia Tech, Fred took over the company when his father retired, and kept it in business until Pritchard Brothers Plumbing finally closed in the mid-1970s. Among their last major projects was the plumbing contract for the new Goldsmith’s Department Store in Laurelwood, which opened in 1962. In fact, I imagine this was the last project that involved the company co-founder, Fred Pritchard, who passed away the year before. The son kept the company going but finally shut the doors in the mid-1970s. When he died in 1983, his newspaper obituary noted that he had remained active in many trade organizations in this area, such as serving as long-time president of the Civitan Club, but the headline focused on an accomplishment from his Boy Scout days in Memphis: “Liberty Bond Effort Pleased Presidents.” It seems Pritchard had been a member of Troop 22 here, and during World War I, had sold more than $450,000 in war bonds — an astonishing sum in those days. The building on Madison changed hands in 1980. That year, Charles and Connie Manus, who operated the national franchise of ASI Sign Systems, purchased 433 Madison. Charles also specialized in architectural renderings, and Connie owned the Connie Hendrix & Associates advertising agency. They also leased por-

tions of the 3,800-square-foot building to local artists and photographers in need of studios. I should tell my other half-dozen readers, F.T., that you are the president and founder of an investment company called Preserver Partners, who bought the property several years ago with plans to rehab it as commercial space. The two-story building at 425 Madison (on the west side of the Pritchard building) serves as the Preserver Partners offices, so that block is seeing new life. The interior of the old Pritchard Brothers building has been gutted. The façade will remain relatively unchanged, but the distinctive glass windows will be moved inside and used as a decorative element, unless the new tenants want to keep them in place. Whatever happens, I hope they are protected in some way. Windows like that would be hard to replace if damaged, and they survived a close call a century ago. According to an old Commercial Appeal article, on the night of August 25, 1921, “a crew of drunken men in a large automobile destroyed several large plate-glass windows with bullets and bottles.” Among the targets that night, all in the same area, were the 7-1-5 Tire Company, the Madison Storage Garage, Paige Automobile Showroom, Nelson Plumbing Supply, and — yes — Pritchard Brothers Plumbing. The police “fired several shots at the party, which escaped, because their car was the fastest.” I know what you’re thinking. Bullets, bottles, a fast car, and a police chase usually mean one thing: The Lauderdales — at it again!

above left: The building’s spacious interior has been gutted, so new tenants can design it to fit their needs. above: This rendering shows how the exterior might look if the ornate stained-glass windows are moved inside.

Got a question for Vance?

EMAIL: askvance@memphismagazine.com MAIL: Vance Lauderdale, Memphis magazine, P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101 ONLINE: memphismagazine.com/ ask-vance

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C L AS S I C

D I N I N G

Italian Spinach at Lucchesi’s Ravioli & Pasta Company

Lasagna and ravioli are big sellers, but spinach reigns supreme at this popular East Memphis spot. BY MICHAEL DONAHUE

The spinach recipe was among the formulas he acquired when Robilio bought the business from Vince and Pat Lucchesi in 1999. “The Lucchesis took their spinach and they slow-cooked it with not a lot of ingredients. I’m not going to tell you all the ingredients, but at Christmas time we were cooking over 500 pounds of spinach a day. We cook 90 pounds every day now.” They sell the spinach in twopound and 13-ounce containers. Lasagna is the top-selling pasta dish. “We make our own pasta,” says Robilio, “and we make our own meat sauce.” In the delicatessen, he says, “We sell a ton of our meatball sandwiches.” That one is as popular as their muffuletta, meatball hoagie, and their number-one sandwich — the turkey bacon ranch.

Lucchesi’s also does a booming business with more than 30 frozen casseroles, which include chicken Rotel, chicken enchiladas, and shrimp and grits. In addition to their own spaghetti, they offer “Ashley’s Chicken Spaghetti,” made from a recipe Robilio got from his wife, Huey’s chief operating officer Ashley Boggs Robilio. “It’s made with our homemade spaghetti, but it has mushrooms in it and seasonings and cooked chicken.” They also sell low-carb and gluten-free items. In addition to their Mendenhall Commons store, which faces Sanderlin, nine area grocery stores feature

left: Jamil Leake and Michael Robilio display servings of Italian spinach and lasagna. below: Michael Donahue enjoys the above classics along with a refreshing sweet tea. ing that the Take and Bake pizzas also are extremely popular. “You come in, order your pizza, it’s handed to you, and you take it home and cook it.” Their house pizza is made with salami, pepperoni, Italian sausage, black olives, mushrooms, Roma tomatoes and a threecheese blend: mozzarella, cheddar, and parmesan. The “Miss Becky” pizza is made with mushrooms, black olives, mixed onions, green peppers, Roma tomatoes, fresh spinach, and the three-cheese blend, all topped with an olive oil glaze. “No red sauce on it.” They now have tables and chairs for those who want to eat inside. “We do quite a bit of lunch business,” he says.” We mostly do sandwiches and salads, but we are able to take our single-serve entrees and heat those up. I had a guy in at 8:30 this morning sitting there eating spaghetti.” Lucchesi’s manager Jamil Leake runs day-to-day operations, while Robilio says he now keeps one foot on the golf course. “I’m semi-retired right now. I’ve been working 47 years and I’m happy with my life. I’m content with where I’m at.” He also has three grandchildren and says, “I like to spend time with them.” Do they all like Italian food? “The oldest one does. But the twins are just six months.” Lucchesi’s Raviolii and Pasta Co. is at 540 South Mendenhall Road, Suite 3, in Mendenhall Commons.

TOP PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAEL DONAHUE | DONAHUE PHOTOGRAPH BY LUCCHESI’S

ucchesi’s R avioli & Pasta Company is famous for its lasagna, ravioli, and spaghetti, but “Italian spinach is number one,” says Lucchesi’s majority owner Michael Robilio.

Lucchesi’s products. Vince and Pat Lucchesi started Lucchesi’s in 1990, Robilio says. “It was just takeout with fresh lasagna and a couple of meals, like ravioli. They always made the ravioli, the pasta, and the sauce from scratch. We still do. We have not changed one of those recipes.” Robilio bought Lucchesi’s when he decided to change businesses. “I wanted to sell my grocery store. I used to own Robilio’s Big Star, but I wanted to get out of the business and I did not want to work for anybody.” He and a group of investors bought Lucchesi’s. Robilio later became the majority partner, with Wes Kraker and Mike Gabrielleschi as the other partners. “At one time we had two stores and three franchises, but that was very hard to do,” says Robilio. “We learned our lesson that going that fast, like a lot of people do, is not necessarily the best way to grow.” They opened locations in Germantown and Collierville, as well as in Little Rock, Arkansas, and Louisville, Kentucky. “In ’07, we decided to close all the franchises and concentrate on our main store. We more than doubled the business” with just the Mendenhall Commons store, he says. Except for the old Germantown store, Lucchesi’s had always been strictly takeout. “We did not have chairs and stuff,” says Robilio, who came up with different ways to improve the business. “I finally hit a home run with the casseroles,” he says, not-

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T I D B I T S

South Point Grocery

Downtown’s new grocery destination also serves up special, budget-friendly sandwiches. BY SAMUEL X. CICCI

TOP PHOTOGRAPHS BY SAMUEL X. CICCI

rom his vantage point behind the deli counter at the new South Point Grocery, Josh McLane recognizes that both time and money are valuable, especially for the worker bees buzzing around the Downtown area looking for a quick lunch. His ethos? Aim to have everyone in and out in five minutes. “Fast and hot, when it comes to our orders. I try to set this job up to be easy for my amazing team,” McLane says. “I’ll come in, do a lot of prep work, and make it really simple to create all the orders and send our customers on their way as fast as possible.”

McLane knows a thing or two of a slightly too fun night out. about sandwiches. A veteran of “There were lots of times I’d look kitchens like Fino’s from the Hill, in the fridge and put something Little Italy, and the Hi-Tone, he’s together with ingredients I had had plenty of experience whipon hand,” he says. In fact, his faping up his own creative takes on vorite menu item is the product the classic lunchtime assembly. of one such night, and a sandwich Now at the new grocery store in he’s been workshopping for a Downtown Memphis opened by long time. Rick James and team in March, HEELS, named for McLane’s McLane continues to draw in band, offers an intriguing mix of bacon, provolone, and … peanut large lunchtime crowds. At eight dollars apiece, these butter. The nutty base incorposandwiches won’t require diners rates hot sauce and other spices. to tighten their belts — maybe the “You have to make sure you get opposite. “It’s cheap monetarily, the right balance,” says McLane. “I’ve tried this sandwich a lot of but not cheap quality-wise,” says McLane. “We work really hard to different ways, and the bacon keep our price point down, espeprovides just the right level of cially considering we use saltiness. But the initial Boar’s Head in a lot peanut butter and of our sandwiches. jelly mix was a bit I don’t like to do too sweet, so I started putting what I call ‘Instagram food,’ Frank’s RedHot where you’ve sauce with the got too much peanut butter. It protein piled up gives it a little bit and things spillof a kick, but not ing out, telling so much where it’s Josh McLane people, ‘Wow, look too hot. And I comat all this stuff on here.’ bine that with a jalapeño And then you have to charge a strawberry jam. The ingredients lot more. Instead, we’re focusing really round each other out for on the whole, all-around flavor, sweet and salty, and maybe a tiny and making some really good bit of spicy.” sandwiches.” If a peanut butter and bacon Many of South Point’s sandcombo doesn’t strike your fancy, wiches were cooked up during more traditional options are a McLane’s own late nights in the classic club sandwich (roast beef, kitchen, whether he’s arriving turkey, bacon, tomato, swiss, srihome after a long day at work, racha mayo, vinegar, and oil) or or in need of a snack at the end Rick’s Reuben, a favorite of own-

The deli counter at South Point Grocery provides quick and fresh sandwiches for hungry Downtowners. The variety of Boar’s Head products allows McLane to whip up unique specials on any given day. er James. But it’s worth coming back multiple times to sample the zanier options. My first choice, the Juan Popper, manages to capture the essence and texture of a jalapeño popper in sandwich form. The peppers are wrapped up neatly with cream cheese, cheddar, American cheese, and sriracha mayo inside a warm, toasted French roll. The soft bundle delivers a nice kick, but won’t have you calling the fire department. “Putting that mayo on just cools the whole thing down enough,” says McLane, “and rounds out the whole sandwich.” The Juan Popper is one of several vegetarian options, something McLane was intentional about while constructing his menu. “My wife’s a vegetarian, and she got kind of tired of only getting mushroom and pepper sandwiches when we’d eat out,” says McLane. The Care Package was an item designed specifically for his wife, Cara, and layers olive tapenade with marinated mushrooms, tomato, swiss, provolone, fennel cream cheese, oil, and vinegar. It’s one of her per-

sonal favorites, says McLane, so it made its way onto the menu. “Almost half of our menu contains vegetarian options. Like the Care Package, I think they’re all sandwiches that will hopefully stand out for vegetarians.” So far, business has been booming. McLane works the shop three days a week and leaves it in the hands of his capable team the rest of the time. He’s mostly had a blank slate to come up with his ideas and wants to keep tapping into the creative side of his sandwich process to continue providing something new to customers. “We’ve got a good relationship with Boar’s Head, so I’ll take a look at some ingredients that we have and whip up specials based on what’s there,” he says. “We won’t have a set schedule for those. You’ll just have to pop in and see what we’re offering. But whatever it is, it will be good.” We concur. South Point Grocery is located at 136 Webster Ave. The sandwich counter is open 11 a.m. - 6 p.m. seven days a week.

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The Memphis Dining Guide

FLIGHT RESTAURANT & WINE BAR—Serves steaks and seafood, along with such specialties as bison ribeye and Muscovy duck, all matched with appropriate wines. 39 S. Main. 521-8005. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ FLYING FISH—Serves up fried and grilled versions of shrimp, crab, oysters, fish tacos, and catfish; also chicken and burgers. 105 emphis magazine offers this curated restaurant listing as a service S. Second. 522-8228. L, D, X, $-$$ to our readers. Broken down alphabetically by neighborhoods, this directory does GOOD FORTUNE CO.—Authentic handcrafted noonot list every restaurant in town. It does, however, include the magazine’s “Top 50” choices dles, ramen, and dumplings. 361 S. Main. 561-306-4711. of must-try restaurants in Memphis, a group that is updated every August. Establishments L, D, $-$$ THE GENRE—Burgers, tenders, catfish, and plenty of open less than a year are not eligible for “Top 50” but are noted as “New.” This guide also vegan options made to order at this music-themed includes a representative sampling of other Bluff City eating establishments. No fast-food restaurant/lounge. 200 Poplar, Suite 105. 410-8169. B, L, facilities or cafeterias are listed. Restaurants are included regardless of whether they advertise D, $-$$ in Memphis magazine; those that operate in multiple locations are listed under the neighborhood THE GRAY CANARY—The sixth restaurant from chefs Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman, offering small plates of their original location. This guide is updated regularly, but we recommend that you call and entrees cooked on an open flame. Oysters, octopus, ahead to check on hours, prices, or other details. Suggestions from readers are welcome; please and hearty steaks are among the menu options at this eatery in contact Samuel X. Cicci at scicci@contemporary-media.com. Old Dominick Distillery. Closed Mon. 301 S. Front. 466-6324. D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ CAROLINA WATERSHED—This indoor/outdoor eatery, set GRECIAN GOURMET TAVERNA—Serves traditional DOWNTOWN around silos, features reimagined down-home classics, including favorites like spanakopita, pastitso, moussaka, and hand-rolled 117 PRIME—Restaurateurs Craig Blondis and Roger Sapp team fried green tomatoes with smoked catfish, a buttermilk fried dolmathes, as well as lamb sliders and pita nachos. Closed Mon. up with Chef Ryan Trimm to recreate the traditional American chicken sandwich, burgers, and more. Closed Mon.-Thurs. 141 E. 412 S. Main. 249-6626. L, D, X, $ steakhouse. Serving oysters on the half shell and a variety of surf Carolina. 321-5553. L, D, WB, $-$$ GUS’S WORLD FAMOUS FRIED CHICKEN—Serves and turf options. 117 Union. 433-9851. L, D, WB, X, $-$$$ CATHERINE & MARY’S—A variety of pastas, grilled chicken with signature spicy batter, along with homeALDO’S PIZZA PIES—Serving gourmet pizzas — quail, pâté, razor clams, and monkfish are among the made beans, slaw, and pies. 310 S. Front. 527-4877; 3100 including Mr. T Rex — salads, and more. Also 30 beers, dishes served at this Italian restaurant in the Chisca. 272 S. Forest Hill Irene (Germantown). 853-6005; 2965 N. Germantown bottled or on tap. 100 S. Main. 577-7743; 752 S. Cooper. Main. 254-8600. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ Pkwy. (Cordova). 373-9111; 730 S. Mendenhall. 767-2323; 505 725-7437. L, D, X, $-$$ CHEF TAM’S UNDERGROUND CAFE—Serves Southern staples Highway 70 W., Mason, TN. 901-294-2028. L, D, X, MRA, $ THE ARCADE—Possibly Memphis’ oldest cafe. with a Cajun twist. Menu items include totchoes, jerk wings, fried HAPPY MEXICAN—Serves quesadillas, burritos, chimichangas, Specialties include sweet potato pancakes, a fried peachicken, and “muddy” mac and cheese. Closed Sun. and Mon. 668 vegetable and seafood dishes, and more. 385 S. Second. 529nut butter and banana sandwich, and breakfast served Union Ave. 207-6182. L, D, $ 9991; 6080 Primacy Pkwy. 683-0000; all day. 540 S. Main. 526-5757. B, L, D (Thurs.-Sat.), X, MRA, $ CHEZ PHILIPPE—Classical/ DINING SYMBOLS 7935 Winchester. 751-5353. L, D, X, $ AUTOMATIC SLIM’S—Longtime Downtown favorite specializes contemporary French cuisine HU. ROOF—Rooftop cocktail bar with in contemporary American cuisine emphasizing local ingredients; presented in a luxurious atmoB — breakfast superb city views serves toasts with a also extensive martini list. 83 S. Second. 525-7948. L, D, WB, X, sphere with a seasonal menu focused on variety of toppings including beef tartare L — lunch MRA, $-$$$ local/regional cuisine. The crown jewel of with cured egg, cognac, and capers D — dinner BACKLOT SANDWICH SHOP—Big sandwiches, breakfast The Peabody for 35 years. Afternoon tea or riced cauliflower with yellow curry, SB — Sunday brunch bowls, and build-your-own-biscuits for breakfast, lunch, and an served Wed.-Sat., 1-3:30 p.m. (reservacurrants, and almonds. Also salads, fish early supper. 265 S. Front St. 509-8612. B, L, D, $ WB — weekend brunch tions required). Closed Sun.-Tues. The tacos, and boiled peanut hummus. 79 BARDOG TAVERN—Classic American grill with Italian X— wheelchair accessible Peabody, 149 Union. 529-4188. D, X, MRA, Madison. 333-1229. D, $ influence, Bardog offers pasta specialties such as Grandma’s NJ $$$$ MRA — member, Memphis HUSTLE & DOUGH BAKERY Meatballs, as well as salads, sliders, sandwiches, and daily speCIMAS—It’s breakfast tacos, Restaurant Association & CAFE—Flaky, baked breakfast cials. 73 Monroe. 275-8752. B (Mon.-Fri.), L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ shrimp and grits, chilaquiles goodness every day with fresh pastries, $ — under $15 per person without BEDROCK EATS & SWEETS—Memphis’ only Paleo-centric verdes, and plenty of other sandwiches, and more at Arrive Hotel. drinks or desserts restaurant, offering such dishes as pot roast, waffles, enchiladas, Southern and Latin-American twists at the 477 S. Main St., 701-7577. B, L, X, $ $$ — under $25 chicken salad, omelets, and more. Closed for dinner Sun. 327 S. Hyatt Centric. 33 Beale St. 444-3232. B, L, D, ITTA BENA—Southern and Main. 409-6433. B, L, D, X, $-$$ $$$ — $26-$50 $-$$$ Cajun-American cuisine served here, BELLE TAVERN—Serving elevated bar food, including a $$$$ — over $50 THE CLOVER CLUB— conveniently located above B.B. King’s butcher board with a variety of meats and cheeses, as well as Southern fusion and internaBlues Club on Beale St.; specialties are daily specials. 117 Barboro Alley. 249-6580. L (Sun.), D, MRA, $ tionally-inspired small plates at Hotel Indigo. duck and waffles and shrimp and grits, along with steaks, chops, BEN YAY’S GUMBO SHOP—Spiritual successor to DejaVu, 22 N. B.B. King. seafood, and pasta. 145 Beale St. 578-3031. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ offering fresh and authentic Creole staples. 51 S. Main St., 779COZY CORNER—Serving up ribs, pork sandwiches, KING & UNION BAR GROCERY—Classic Southern favorites 4125. L, D, X, $-$$ chicken, spaghetti, and more; also homemade banana including catfish plate, pimento cheese, po-boys, chicken & BISHOP—Ticer and Hudman’s newest venture at the Central pudding. Closed Mon. 745 N. Parkway and Manassas. waffles. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner with cocktails Station Hotel features upscale dishes in a French brasserie style. 527-9158. L, D, $ served with flair and favorite Memphis beers. Locally made 545 S. Main St., 524-5247. L, D, X, $$-$$$ CURFEW—An elevated sports bar/American tavern conconfections available in the grocery. 185 Union Ave. 523-8500. B, BLEU—This eclectic restaurant features American food with cept by Top Chef contestant Fabio Viviani at the Canopy L, D, $-$$ global influences and local ingredients. Among the specialties are Memphis Downtown hotel. 164 Union Ave. B, L, D, X, $-$$ KOOKY CANUCK—Offers prime rib, catfish, and burgers, a 14-oz. bone-in ribeye and several seafood dishes. 221 S. Third, EVELYN & OLIVE—Jamaican/Southern fusion cuisine includes including the 4-lb. “Kookamonga”; also late-night menu. 87 S. in the Westin Memphis Beale St. Hotel. 334-5950. B, L, D, WB, X, such dishes as Kingston stew fish, Rasta Pasta, and jerk rib-eye. Second. 578-9800; 1250 N. Germantown Pkwy. 1-800-2453 L, D, MRA, $$-$$$ Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun.-Mon. 630 Madison. X, MRA, $-$$$ BLUEFIN RESTAURANT & SUSHI LOUNGE—Serves 748-5422. L, D, X, $ LITTLE BETTIE—New Haven-style pizzas and snacks Japanese fusion cuisine featuring seafood and steak, with FAM—Casual Asian restaurant serves sushi rice bowls, noodle from the Andrew-Michael team at Wiseacre’s Downtown seasonally changing menu; also a sushi bar. 135 S. Main. 528-1010. bowls, sushi rolls, and spring rolls. Closed Sun. 149 Madison; 521 S. location. 398 S. B.B. King Blvd. 334-9411. L, D, $-$$ L, D, X, $-$$ Highland. 701-6666. L, D, X, $ THE LITTLE TEA SHOP—Downtown institution BRASS DOOR IRISH PUB—Irish and New-American cuisine FELICIA SUZANNE’S—Southern cuisine with serves up Southern comfort cooking, including meatloaf includes such entrees as fish and chips, burgers, shepherd’s pie, low-country, Creole, and Delta influences, using regional and such veggies as turnip greens, yams, okra, and all-day Irish breakfast, and more. 152 Madison. 572-1813. L, D, fresh seafood, local beef, and locally grown foods. Entrees tomatoes. Closed Sat.-Sun. 69 Monroe. 525-6000, L, X, $ SB, $-$$ include shrimp and grits. Closed Sun. and Mon. A Downtown staple LOCAL—Entrees with a focus on locally sourced products include BY THE BREWERY—Breakfast and lunch café, with a focus at Brinkley Plaza, 383 S. Main. 523-0877. L (Fri. only), D, X, MRA, lobster mac-and-cheese and rib-eye patty melt; menu differs by on Southern-style biscuits, salads, and soups. 496 Tennessee St. $$-$$$ location. 95 S. Main. 473-9573; 2126 Madison. 725-1845. L, D, WB, 310-4341. B, L, $ FERRARO’S PIZZERIA & PUB—Rigatoni and tortellini are X, $-$$ CAFE KEOUGH—European-style cafe serving quiche, paninis, among the pasta entrees here, along with pizzas (whole or by the LOFLIN YARD—Beer garden and restaurant serves vegetarian salads, and more. 12 S. Main. 509-2469. B, L, D, X, $ slice) with a variety of toppings. 111 Jackson. 522-2033. L, D, X, $ fare and smoked-meat dishes, including beef brisket and pork CAPRICCIO GRILL ITALIAN STEAKHOUSE—Offers prime FISHBOWL AT THE PYRAMID—Burgers, fish dishes, sandtenderloin, cooked on a custom-made grill. Closed Mon.-Tues. 7 steaks, fresh seafood (lobster tails, grouper, mahi mahi), pasta, wiches, and more served in a unique “underwater” setting. Bass W. Carolina. 249-3046. L (Sat. and Sun.), D, MRA, $-$$ and several Northern Italian specialties. 149 Union, The Peabody. Pro, 1 Bass Pro Drive, 291-8000. B, L, D, X, $-$$ 529-4199. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$$

A Curated Guide to Eating Out

We celebrate our city’s community table and the people who grow, cook, and eat the best Memphis food at M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M / F O O D 72 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • M A Y 2 0 2 2

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(This guide, compiled by our editors, includes editorial picks and advertisers.)

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LONGSHOT—Chef David Todd has something for everyone with a wide variety of international fusion dishes, and a side of shuffleboard. 477 S. Main. D, $-$$ THE LOOKOUT AT THE PYRAMID—Serves seafood and Southern fare, including cornmeal-fried oysters, sweet tea brined chicken, and elk chops. 1 Bass Pro Dr. 620-4600/2918200. L, D, X, $-$$$ LUCY’S—Hu. Hotel’s downstairs diner serves up breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Start your day with a Hu. breakfast burrito, or Lucy’s Burger for a late-night bite 3 S. Main. 3331200. B, L, D, X, $-$$ LUNA RESTAURANT & LOUNGE—Serving a limited menu of breakfast and lunch items. Dinner entrees include citrus glaze salmon and Cajun stuffed chicken. 179 Madison (Hotel Napoleon). 526-0002. B, D (Mon.-Sat.), X, $-$$$ MACIEL’S—Entrees include tortas, fried taco plates, quesadillas, chorizo and pastor soft tacos, salads, and more. Downtown closed Sun. 45 S. Main. 526-0037, X, MRA, $ THE MAJESTIC GRILLE—Features aged steaks, fresh seafood, and such specialties as roasted chicken and grilled pork tenderloin; offers a pre-theater menu and classic cocktails. Well-stocked bar. 145 S. Main. 522-8555. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ McEWEN’S—Southern/American cuisine with international flavors; specialties include steak and seafood, sweet potato-crusted catfish with macaroni and cheese, and more. Closed Sun., Monroe location. 120 Monroe. Temporarily closed for renovations. 527-7085; 1110 Van Buren (Oxford). 662-234-7003. L, D, SB (Oxford only), X, MRA, $$-$$$ MESQUITE CHOP HOUSE—The focus here is on steaks, including prime fillet, rib-eyes, and prime-aged New York strip; also, some seafood options. 5960 Getwell (Southaven). 662-890-2467; 88 Union. 527-5337; 3165 Forest Hill-Irene (Germantown). 249-5661. D, SB (Germantown), X, $$-$$$ MOLLIE FONTAINE LOUNGE—Specializes in tapas (small plates) featuring global cuisine. Closed Sun.-Tues. 679 Adams Ave. 524-1886. D, X, MRA, $ MOMMA’S ROADHOUSE—This diner and dive at Highway 55 serves up hot and crispy fried chicken wings, among other solid bar food options. Temporarily closed. 855 Kentucky. 207-5111. L, D, MRA, $ THE NINE THAI & SUSHI—Serving authentic Thai dishes, including curries, as well as a variety of sushi rolls. Closed for lunch Sat. and Sun. 121 Union. 208-8347. L, D, X, $-$$ THE PARAMOUNT—Fried green tomato and crab beignet small plates to grilled lamb loin, cowboy ribeye, and an extensive cocktail list. Closed Sun/Mon. 265 S. Front. 410-8169. D, $-$$$$ PAULETTE’S—Presents fine dining with a Continental flair, including such entrees as filet Paulette with butter cream sauce and crabmeat and spinach crepes; also changing daily specials and great views. River Inn. 50 Harbor Town Square. 260-3300. B, L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ PEARL’S OYSTER HOUSE—Downtown eatery serving seafood, including oysters, crawfish, and stuffed butterfly shrimp, as well as beef, chicken, and pasta dishes. 299 S. Main. 522-9070; 8106 Cordova Center Dr. (Cordova). 425-4797. L, D, SB, X, $-$$$ PONTOTOC LOUNGE—Upscale restaurant and jazz bar serves such starters as alligator filet fritters; entrees include Mississippi pot roast with jalapeño cornbread and tagliatelle with braised beef. 314 S. Main. 207-7576. D, X, $-$$ RAW GIRLS—Raw and hot plant-based food alongside cold-pressed juices made from seasonal, locally grown sources. Closed Sun. 150 Peabody Pl., Suite 118. 207-5463. B, L, D, $-$$ REGINA’S—New Orleans-inspired eatery offering po’boys, Cajun nachos topped with crawfish tails, catfish platters, oysters, and more. Closed Mon. 60 N. Main. 730-0384. B, L, D, SB, X, $-$$ RENDEZVOUS, CHARLES VERGOS’—Menu items include barbecued ribs, cheese plates, skillet shrimp, red beans and rice, and Greek salads. Closed Sun.-Mon. 52 S. Second. 523-2746. L (Fri.-Sat.), D, X, $-$$ SABOR CARIBE—Serving up “Caribbean flavors” with dishes from Colombia, Venezuela, Puerto Rico, and Cuba. Closed Sunday. 662 Madison. 949-8100. L, D, X, $ SAGE—Restaurant and lounge features daily lunch specials and tapas with such dishes as braised short ribs, teriyaki pulled pork, and the Sage burger made with Angus beef, avocado mash, fried egg, and flash-fried sage. 94 S. Main. 672-7902. L, D, WB, X, $-$$

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The Memphis Dining Guide SILLY GOOSE LOUNGE—Gourmet, wood-fired pizzas and hand-crafted cocktails at this Downtown restaurant and lounge. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 111. 435-6915. L, D, X, $ SLEEP OUT LOUIE’S—Oyster bar with such specialties as chargrilled Roquefort oysters and gulf oysters on the half shell with Prosecco mignonette; also serves flatbread pizzas and a variety of sandwiches. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 111. 707-7180. L, D, X, $ SOUTH MAIN SUSHI & GRILL—Serving sushi, nigiri, and more. 520 S. Main. 249-2194. L, D, X, $ SOB—Elevated gastropub that serves favorites like general Tso’s cauliflower or duck fried rice. 345 S. Main. 526-0388. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ SOUTH POINT GROCERY—Fresh and delicious sandwiches made to order at Downtown's new grocery market. 136 Webster Ave. B, L, D, $ SUGAR GRITS—Who said breakfast has to be in the morning? The Westmorelands offer grits and other breakfast goodness all day long, in addition to other Southern-style lunch and dinner options. 150 Peabody Pl., Suite 111. 249-5206. B, L, D, $-$$ SUNRISE MEMPHIS—Serves breakfast all day, including house-made biscuits, frittatas, kielbasa or boudin plates, and breakfast platters. 670 Jefferson. 552-3144. B, L, X, MRA, $ TERRACE—Creative American and Continental cuisine includes such dishes as filet mignon, beef or lamb sliders, chicken satay, and mushroom pizzetta. Rooftop, River Inn of Harbor Town, 50 Harbor Town Square. 260-3366. D, X, MRA, $$ TEXAS DE BRAZIL—Serves beef, pork, lamb, and chicken dishes, and Brazilian sausage; also a salad bar with extensive toppings. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 103. 526-7600. L (Wed.-Fri.), D, SB, X, $$-$$$ TUG’S—Famous for New Orleans gumbo, fabulous burgers, fried thin catfish, and specialty pancakes. Now serving Grisanti Crafted Pizza. 51 Harbor Town Square. 260-3344. B, L, D, WB, X, $$-$$$ THE VAULT—Oysters, shrimp beignets, flatbreads, stuffed cornish hen, and Smash Burger featured on “Late Nite Eats” are among the dishes offered at this Creole/Italian fusion eatery. 124 G.E. Patterson. 591-8000. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ WAHLBURGERS WILD—Wahlburgers brings its classic menu, but with a few gamey twists at the Bass Pro Pyramid. 1 Bass Pro Drive. B, L, D, $-$$ WESTY’S—Extensive menu includes a variety of wild rice dishes, sandwiches, plate lunches, and hot fudge pie. 346 N. Main. 543-3278.L, D, X, $

MIDTOWN (INCLUDES THE MEDICAL CENTER)

ABNER'S FAMOUS CHICKEN—Fried chicken tenders and dipping sauces galore at this Mid-South staple. 1350 Concourse Ave, Suite 137. 425-2597; (East Memphis) 1591 Poplar Ave. 509-3351; (Cordova) 1100 N. Germantown Pkwy. 7545355. L, D, $-$$ ABYSSINIA RESTAURANT—Ethiopian/Mediterranean menu includes beef, chicken, lamb, fish entrees, and vegetarian dishes; also a lunch buffet. 2600 Poplar. 321-0082. L, D, X, $-$$ ALCHEMY—Southern fusion, locally grown cuisine features small and large plates; among the offerings are pan-seared hanger steak, quail, and lamb chops; also handcrafted cocktails and local craft beers. 940 S. Cooper. 726-4444. D, SB, X, $-$$ ART BAR—Inventive cocktails feature locally foraged ingredients; snacks include house-cured salt & vinegar potato chips and herb-roasted olives. Closed Mon. 1350 Concourse Avenue #280. 507-8030. D, X, $ BABALU TACOS & TAPAS—This eatery dishes up Spanish-style tapas with Southern flair; also taco and enchilada of the day; specials change daily. 2115 Madison. 274-0100; 6450 Poplar, 4108909. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ BACK DO / MI YARD—A revamped patio space behind The Beauty Shop features rotisserie meats and fishes via Brazilian-style outdoor grill. Dinner Wed.-Sat., weather permitting. 966 S. Cooper, 272-7111. D, X, $$ BAIN BARBECUE & BAKERY—Brian Bain’s popular Texas-style barbecue is back, alongside an assortment of baked goods. Barbecue menu coming this summer. 993 S. Cooper. 310-4141. B, L, $-$$ BAR DKDC—Features an ever-changing menu of international “street food,” from Thai to Mexican, Israeli to Indian, along with specialty cocktails. 964 S. Cooper. 272-0830. D, X, MRA, $ BAR KEOUGH—It’s old-school eats and cocktails at the new Cooper-Young neighborhood corner bar by Kevin Keough. 247 Cooper St. D, X, $

BAR-B-Q SHOP—Dishes up barbecued ribs, spaghetti, bologna, other classics. Closed Sun. 1782 Madison. 2721277. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ BARI RISTORANTE ENOTECA—Authentic Southeastern Italian cuisine (Puglia) emphasizes lighter entrees. Serves fresh fish and beef dishes and a homemade soup of the day. 524 S. Cooper. 722-2244. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ BARKSDALE RESTAURANT—Old-school diner serving breakfast and Southern plate lunches. 237 S. Cooper. 722-2193. B, L, D, X, $ BAYOU BAR & GRILL—New Orleans fare at this Overton Square eatery includes jambalaya, gumbo, catfish Acadian, shrimp dishes, red beans and rice, and muffalettas. 2094 Madison. 278-8626. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ BEAUTY SHOP—Modern American cuisine with international flair served in a former beauty shop. Serves steaks, salads, pasta, and seafood, including pecancrusted golden sea bass. Perennial “Best Brunch” winner. Closed for dinner Sunday. 966 S. Cooper. 272-7111. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ BELLY ACRES—At this festive Overton Square eatery, milkshakes, floats, and burgers rule. Burgers are updated with contemporary toppings like grilled leeks, braised tomatoes, and sourdough or brioche buns. 2102 Trimble Pl. 529-7017. L, D, X, $ BOSCOS—Tennessee’s first craft brewery serves a variety of freshly brewed beers as well as wood-fired oven pizzas, pasta, seafood, steaks, and sandwiches. 2120 Madison. 432-2222. L, D, SB (with live jazz), X, MRA, $-$$ BOUNTY ON BROAD—Offering family-style dining, Bounty serves small plates and family-sized platters, with such specialties as chicken-fried quail and braised pork shank. 2519 Broad. 410-8131. L (Sat. and Sun.), D (Mon.-Sat.), SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ BROADWAY PIZZA—Serving a variety of pizzas, including the Broadway Special, as well as sandwiches, salads, wings, and soul-food specials. 2581 Broad. 454-7930; 627 S. Mendenhall. 207-1546. L, D, X, $-$$ CAFE 1912—French/American bistro owned by culinary pioneer Glenn Hays serving such seafood entrees as seared sea scallops with charred cauliflower purée and chorizo cumin sauce; also crepes, salads, and onion soup gratinée. 243 S. Cooper. 722-2700. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ CAFE BROOKS BY CITY & STATE—Serving grab-and-go pastries, as well as lunch items. Menu includes soups, salads, and sandwiches, such as the Modern Reuben and Grown-Up Grilled Cheese. 1934 Poplar (Memphis Brooks Museum of Art). 544-6200. B, L, X, $ CAFE ECLECTIC—Omelets and chicken and waffles are among menu items, along with quesadillas, sandwiches, wraps, and burgers. Menu varies by location. 603 N. McLean. 725-1718; 111 Harbor Town Square. 590-4645. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $ CAFE OLÉ—This eatery specializes in authentic Mexican cuisine; one specialty is the build-your-own quesadilla. 959 S. Cooper. 343-0103. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ CAFE PALLADIO—Serves gourmet salads, soups, sandwiches, and desserts in a tea room inside the antiques shop. Closed Sun. 2169 Central. 278-0129. L, X, $ CAFE SOCIETY—With Belgian and classic French influences, serves Wagyu beef, chicken, and seafood dishes, including bacon-wrapped shrimp, along with daily specials and vegetarian entrees. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 212 N. Evergreen. 722-2177. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ CAMEO—Three longtime Memphis bartenders join forces for creative cocktails, cheese boards, snacks, and Sunday brunch. 1835 Union Ave., Suite 3. 305-6511. D, SB, $-$$ CELTIC CROSSING—Specializes in Irish and American pub fare. Entrees include shepherd’s pie, shrimp and sausage coddle, and fish and chips. 903 S. Cooper. 274-5151. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ CENTRAL BBQ—Serves ribs, smoked hot wings, pulled pork sandwiches, chicken, turkey, nachos, and portobello sandwiches. Offers both pork and beef barbecue. 2249 Central Ave. 272-9377; 4375 Summer Ave. 767-4672; 147 E. Butler. 672-7760 ; 6201 Poplar. 417-7962. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ COMPLICATED PILGRIM—Quick serve coffee shop, bar, and restaurant all in one at The Memphian hotel. 21 S. Cooper St. 601-909-5820. B, L, D, $-$$ THE COVE—Nautical-themed restaurant and bar serving oysters, pizzas, and more. The Stoner Pie, with tamales and fritos, is a popular dish. 2559 Broad. 730-0719. L, D, $ THE CRAZY NOODLE—Korean noodle dishes range from bibam beef noodle with cabbage, carrots, and other vegetables, to curry chicken noodle; also rice cakes served

in a flavorful sauce. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 2015 Madison. 2720928. L, D, X, $ ECCO—Mediterranean-inspired specialties range from rib-eye steak to seared scallops to housemade pastas and a grilled vegetable plate; also a Saturday brunch. Closed Sun.-Mon. 1585 Overton Park. 410-8200. B, L, D, X, $-$$ FABIOLA’S KITCHEN—Longtime caterer Fabiola Francis serves up burgers, tacos, fish, and much more. 1353 Jackson Ave. B, L, $ FARM BURGER—Serves grass-fed, freshly ground, locally sourced burgers; also available with chicken, pork, or veggie quinoa patties, with such toppings as aged white cheddar, kale coleslaw, and roasted beets. 1350 Concourse Avenue, Suite 175. 800-1851. L, D, X, $ THE FARMER AT RAILGARTEN—Mac Edwards comes out of retirement with classics including pan-seared catfish, gulf shrimp and grits, or a Gibson donut bread pudding. Closed Mon./Tue. 2166 Central. 313-0087. D, $-$$ FINO’S ITALIAN DELI & CATERING—The newly revived Fino’s offers the old favorites such as the Acquisto as well as a new breakfast menu. 1853 Madison. 272-FINO. B, L, D, X, $ FLAME RAMEN—Traditional Japanese ramen restaurant serving up bowls of noodles in Midtown. 1838 Union Ave. 779-8666. D, $-$$ FLIP SIDE—Pinball meets pub in the Crosstown neighborhood, with plenty of games alongside a Caribbean- and Latin-inspired menu. Closed Mon. 1349 Autumn Ave. L, D, $-$$ FRIDA’S—Mexican cuisine and Tex-Mex standards, including chimichangas, enchiladas, and fajitas; seafood includes shrimp and tilapia. 1718 Madison. 244-6196. L, D, X, $-$$ GLOBAL CAFÉ—This international food hall hosts three immigrant/refugee food entrepreneurs serving Venezuelan, Sudanese, and Syrian cuisines. Samosas, shawarma, and kabobs are among the menu items. Closed Mon. 1350 Concourse Avenue, Suite 157. L, D, X, MRA, $ GOLDEN INDIA—Northern Indian specialties include tandoori chicken as well as lamb, beef, shrimp, and vegetarian dishes. 2097 Madison. 728-5111. L, D, X, $-$$ GROWLERS—Sports bar and eatery serves standard bar fare in addition to pasta, tacos, chicken and waffles, and light options. 1911 Poplar. 244-7904. L, D, X, $-$$ HATTIE B’S—Fried chicken spot features “hot chicken” with a variety of heat levels; from no heat to “shut the cluck up” sauce. Sides include greens, pimento mac-and-cheese, and black-eyed pea salad. 596 S. Cooper. 424-5900. L, D, X, $ HUEY’S—This family-friendly restaurant offers 13 different burgers, a variety of sandwiches, and delicious soups and salads. 1927 Madison. 726-4372; 1771 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 754-3885; 77 S. Second (Downtown). 527-2700; 2130 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-4455; 7090 Malco Blvd. (Southaven). 662-349-7097; 7825 Winchester. 624-8911; 4872 Poplar. 682-7729; 7677 Farmington Blvd. (Germantown). 318-3030; 8570 Highway 51 N. (Millington). 873-5025. L, D, X, MRA, $ IMAGINE VEGAN CAFE—Dishes at this fully vegan restaurant range from salads and sandwiches to full dinners, including eggplant parmesan and “beef” tips and rice; breakfast all day Sat. and Sun. 2158 Young. 654-3455. L, D, WB, X, $ INDIA PALACE—Tandoori chicken, lamb shish kabobs, and chicken tikka masala are among the entrees; also, vegetarian options and a daily all-you-can-eat lunch buffet. 1720 Poplar. 278-1199. L, D, X, $-$$ INSPIRE COMMUNITY CAFE—Serving breakfast all day, in addition to quesadillas, rice bowls, and more for lunch and dinner. 510 Tillman, Suite 110. 509-8640. B, L, D, X, $ KNIFEBIRD—Neighborhood wine bar boasts plenty of flights, cocktails, and mocktails alongside bruschetta and charcuterie boards. Closed Sun. 2155 Central Ave. 748-5425. D, $-$$$ LAFAYETTE’S MUSIC ROOM—Serves such Southern cuisine as po’boys, shrimp and grits, and wood-fired pizzas. 2119 Madison. 207-5097. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ LBOE—Gourmet burger joint serves locally sourced ground beef burgers, with options like the Mac-N-Cheese Burger and Caprese. Black bean and turkey patties available. 2021 Madison. 725-0770. L, D, X, $ THE LIQUOR STORE—Renovated liquor store turned diner serves all-day breakfast, sandwiches, and entrees such as Salisbury steak and smothered pork chops. Closed for dinner Sun.-Mon. 2655 Broad. 405-5477. B, L, D, X, $-$$ LITTLE ITALY—Serving New York-style pizza as well as subs and pasta dishes. 1495 Union. 725-0280; L, D, X, $-$$

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MAXIMO’S ON BROAD—Serving a tapas menu that features creative fusion cuisine; entrees include veggie paella and fish of the day. Closed Mon. 2617 Broad Ave. 452-1111. D, SB, X, $-$$ MEMPHIS PIZZA CAFE—Homemade pizzas are specialties; also serves sandwiches, calzones, and salads. 2087 Madison. 726-5343; 5061 Park Ave. 684-1306; 7604 W. Farmington (Germantown). 753-2218; 797 W. Poplar (Collierville). 861-7800; 5627 Getwell (Southaven). 662-536-1364. L, D, X, $-$$ MIDPOINTE FROM EDGE ALLEY—Edge Alley’s sister cafe at the Ballet Memphis headquarters focuses on freshness for its breakfast, lunch, and happy hour tapas. Closed Sun.-Mon. 2144 Madison Ave. 425-2605. B, L, X, $ MOLLY’S LA CASITA—Homemade tamales, fish tacos, a vegetarian combo, and bacon-wrapped shrimp are a few of the specialties. 2006 Madison. 726-1873. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ PANTÀ—Small, Catalan-inspired plates by Kelly English in the former Restaurant Iris space. 2146 Monroe Ave. Closed Mon.-Wed. 590-2828. L, D, $-$$. PARISH GROCERY—Shrimp? Roast beef? Oysters? Whatever type of po’boy you want, the New Orleansthemed eatery has got it. Closed Monday. 916 S. Cooper St. 207-4347. L, D, X, $-$$ PAYNE’S BAR-B-QUE—Opened in 1972, this family-owned barbecue joint serves ribs, smoked sausage, and chopped pork sandwiches with a standout mustard slaw and homemade sauce. About as down-to-earth as it gets. 1762 Lamar. 272-1523. L, D, $-$$ PIZZERIA TRASIMENO—Small pizzas baked in wood-fired clay ovens along with a selection of small salads. Menu is soon to include desserts, local beer on tap, and Umbrian wine. 1350 Concourse Ave., Suite 181. 308-1113. L, D. $ PHO BINH—Vietnamese, vegetarian, and Cantonese specialties include lemon tofu and spring rolls. Closed Sunday. 1615 Madison. 276-0006. L, D, $ RED FISH ASIAN BISTRO—In the former Nineteenth Century Club building, serves sushi, teriyaki, and hibachi. Specialties include yuzu filet mignon and Chilean sea bass. 1433 Union. 454-3926; 9915 Highway 64 (Lakeland). 729-7581; 6518 Goodman (Olive Branch). 662-874-5254. L, D, X, $-$$$ ROBATA RAMEN & YAKITORI BAR—Serves ramen noodle bowls and Yakitori skewers as well as rice and noodle dishes. 2116 Madison. 410-8290. L, D, X, $ SABROSURA—Serves Mexican and Cuban fare, including arroz tapada de pollo and steak Mexican. Closed Sun. 782 Washington. 421-8180. L, D, X, $-$$ SALT|SOY—Nick Scott and Brac McCarley team up to provide Southern and Asian-inspired dishes at this Japanese Izakaya. Closed Sunday, Monday. 2583 Broad Ave. 726-4444. D, $$

SALTWATER CRAB—Offers an array of seafood dishes including boils with blue crab, crab legs, lobster tails, and more, and specialty sushi like the Dynamite or Royal King rolls, in addition to signature sangrias and cocktails. 2059 Madison Ave. 922-5202. L, D, X, $$ THE SECOND LINE—Kelly English brings “relaxed Creole cuisine” to his newest eatery; serves a variety of po’boys and such specialties as barbecue shrimp, andouille shrimp, and pimento cheese fries. 2144 Monroe. 590-2829. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ SEKISUI—Japanese fusion cuisine, fresh sushi bar, grilled meats and seafood, California rolls, and vegetarian entrees. Poplar/Perkins location’s emphasis is on Pacific Rim cuisine. Menu and hours vary at each location. 25 Belvedere. 725-0005; 1884 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 309-8800; 4724 Poplar. 767-7770; 2130 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-0622; 2990 KirbyWhitten (Bartlett). 377-2727; 6696 Poplar. 747-0001. L, D, X, $-$$$ SOUL FISH CAFE—Serving Southern-style soul food, tacos, and po’boys, including catfish, crawfish, oyster, shrimp, chicken, and smoked pork tenderloin. 862 S. Cooper. 725-0722; 3160 Village Shops Dr. (Germantown). 755-6988; 4720 Poplar. 590-0323. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ STICKEM—Brick and mortar location for the popular food truck, which offers grilled meat on a stick. 1788 Madison. Closed Sunday. 474-7214. L, D, X, $ TAMBOLI’S PASTA & PIZZA—Pasta-maker Miles Tamboli whips up Italian soul food with seasonal menus featuring dishes like crispy fried chicken or creamy bucatini with pecorino cheese. Serves dinner Tues.-Sat. 1761 Madison. 410-8866. D, X, $-$$ TAKASHI BISTRO—Fusion restaurant with an open kitchen that lets customers watch chefs prepare a variety of Japanese and Thai cuisine. 1680 Union Ave., Suite 109. 800-2936. L, D, $-$$.

TONICA—Paella and other Spanish-inspired dishes with an Italian touch, alongside an extensive list of gin and tonics. 1545 Overton Park. Closed Mon.-Wed. D, $-$$ TSUNAMI—Features Pacific Rim cuisine (Asia, Australia, South Pacific, etc.); also a changing “small plate” menu. Chef Ben Smith is a Cooper-Young pioneer. Specialties include Asian nachos and roasted sea bass. Closed Sunday. 928 S. Cooper. 274-2556. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ ZINNIE’S—Dive bar classic reopens with a makeover and signature Zinnaloni sandwich. 1688 Madison. 726-5004. L, D, X, $

SOUTH MEMPHIS (INCLUDES PARKWAY VILLAGE, FOX

MEADOWS, SOUTH MEMPHIS, WINCHESTER, AND WHITEHAVEN) BALA’S BISTRO—Authentic West African cuisine available to order or by the pound, alongside traditional American dishes and an extensive vegan menu. 4571 Elvis Presley Blvd. 509-3024. L, D, $-$$ COLETTA’S—Longtime eatery serves such specialties as homemade ravioli, lasagna, and pizza with barbecue or traditional toppings. 1063 S. Parkway E. 948-7652; 2850 Appling Rd. (Bartlett). 383-1122. L, D, X, $-$$ CURRY BOWL—Specializes in Southern Indian cuisine, serving Tandoori chicken, biryani, tikka masala, and more. Weekend buffet. 4141 Hacks Cross Rd. 207-6051. L, D, $ DELTA’S KITCHEN—The premier restaurant at The Guest House at Graceland serves Elvis-inspired dishes — like Nutella and Peanut Butter Crepes for breakfast — and upscale Southern cuisine — including lamb chops and shrimp and grits — for dinner. 3600 Elvis Presley Blvd. 443-3000. B, D, X, $-$$$ DWJ KOREAN BARBECUE—This authentic Korean eatery serves kimbap, barbecued beef short ribs, rice and noodles dishes, and hot pots and stews. 3750 Hacks Cross Rd., Suite 101. 746-8057; 2156 Young. 207-6204. L, D, $-$$ FABULOUS FLAVORS & FRIENDS—”The Candy Lady” Precious Thompson Jones comes up with a little bit of everything: omelettes, quesadillas, t-bones and waffles, and plenty of soul food. 2063 E. Brooks Rd. 314-0735. L, D, $ THE FOUR WAY—Legendary soul-food establishment dishing up such entrees as fried and baked catfish, chicken, and turkey and dressing, along with a host of vegetables and desserts. Around the corner from the legendary Stax Studio. Closed Mon. 998 Mississippi Blvd. 507-1519. L, D, $ HERNANDO’S HIDEAWAY–No one cares how late it gets; not at Hernando’s Hideaway. Live music, killer happy hour, and plenty of bar fare at this South Memphis hang. 3210 Old Hernando Rd. 917-982-1829. L, D, $ INTERSTATE BAR-B-Q—Specialties include chopped pork-shoulder sandwiches, ribs, hot wings, spaghetti, chicken, and turkey. 2265 S. Third. 775-2304; 150 W. Stateline Rd. (Southaven). 662-393-5699. L, D, X, $-$$ JIM & SAMELLA’S—It’s a revolving menu of soul food delight from Chef Talbert Fleming, with anything from Southern ribs to fried tamales. 841 Bullington Ave. 265-8761. L, D, X, $ LEONARD’S—Serves wet and dry ribs, barbecue sandwiches, spaghetti, catfish, homemade onion rings, and lemon icebox pie; also a lunch buffet. 5465 Fox Plaza. 360-1963. L, X, $-$$ MARLOWE’S—In addition to its signature barbecue and ribs, Marlowe’s serves Southern-style steaks, chops, lasagna, and more. 4381 Elvis Presley Blvd. 332-4159. D, X, MRA, $-$$ UNCLE LOU’S FRIED CHICKEN—Featured on Diners, DriveIns and Dives for good reason: fried chicken (mild, hot, or homestyle); jumbo burgers four patties high; strawberry shortcake, and assorted fruit pies. 3633 Millbranch. 332-2367. L, D, X, MRA, $

SUMMER/BERCLAIR/ RALEIGH/BARTLETT

ASIAN PALACE—Chinese eatery serves seafood, vegetarian items, dim sum, and more. 5266 Summer Ave. 766-0831. L, D, X, $-$$ BISCUITS & JAMS—Biscuits, waffles, French toast, and plenty of sharables at this Bartlett breakfast spot. Closed Mon./Tue. 5806 Stage Rd. 672-7905. B, L, $ ELWOOD’S SHACK—Casual comfort food includes tacos, pizza, and sandwiches. Specialties include meats smoked in-house (chicken, turkey, brisket, pork), barbecue pizza, and steelhead trout tacos. 4523 Summer. 761-9898. B, L, D, X, $ EXLINES’ BEST PIZZA—Serves pizza, Italian dinners, sandwiches, and salads. 6250 Stage Rd. 382-3433; 2935 Austin Peay. 388-4711; 2801 Kirby Parkway. 754-0202; 7730 Wolf River Blvd. (Germantown). 753-4545; 531 W. Stateline Rd. 662-342-4544. L, D, X, MRA, $

The Memphis Dining Guide LA TAQUERIA GUADALUPANA—Fajitas and quesadillas are just a few of the authentic Mexican entrees offered here. A bona-fide Memphis institution. 4818 Summer. 685-6857; 5848 Winchester. 365-4992. L, D, $ LOTUS—Authentic Vietnamese-Asian fare, including lemon-grass chicken and shrimp, egg rolls, Pho soup, and spicy Vietnamese vermicelli. 4970 Summer. 682-1151. D, X, $ MORTIMER’S—Contemporary American entrees include trout almondine, chicken dishes, and hand-cut steaks; also sandwiches, salads, and daily/nightly specials. A Memphis landmark since the Knickerbocker closed. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 590 N. Perkins. 761-9321. L, D, X, $-$$ NAGASAKI INN—Chicken, steak, and lobster are among the main courses; meal is cooked at your table. 3951 Summer. 454-0320. D, X, $$ NAM KING—General Tso’s chicken, hot and sour soup, and homemade chicken wings are back at the longtime Raleigh Chinese eatery. 3624 Austin Peay Highway, #3. 373-4411. L, D, $-$$ PANDA GARDEN—Sesame chicken and broccoli beef are among the Mandarin and Cantonese entrees; also seafood specials and fried rice. Closed for lunch Saturday. 3735 Summer. 323-4819. L, D, X, $-$$ QUEEN OF SHEBA—Featuring Middle Eastern favorites and Yemeni dishes such as lamb haneeth and saltah. 4792 Summer. 207-4174. L, D, $ SIDE PORCH STEAK HOUSE—In addition to steak, the menu includes chicken, pork chops, and fish entrees; homemade rolls are a specialty. Temporarily closed. Closed Sun.-Mon. 5689 Stage Rd. 377-2484. D, X, $-$$ TORTILLERIA LA UNICA—Individual helping of Mexican street food, including hefty tamales, burritos, tortas, and sopes. 5015 Summer Ave. 685-0097. B, L, D, X, $

UNIVERSITY NEIGHBORHOOD DISTRICT (INCLUDES CHICKASAW

GARDENS AND HIGHLAND STRIP) A-TAN—Serves Chinese and Japanese hibachi cuisine, complete with sushi bar. A specialty is Four Treasures with garlic sauce. 3445 Poplar, Suite 17, University Center. 452-4477. L, D, X, $-$$$ THE BLUFF—New Orleans-inspired menu includes alligator bites, nachos topped with crawfish and andouille, gumbo, po’boys, and fried seafood platters. 535 S. Highland. 454-7771. L, D, X, $-$$ BROTHER JUNIPER’S—This little cottage is a breakfast mecca, offering specialty omelets, including the open-faced San Diegan omelet; also daily specials, and homemade breads and pastries. Closed Mon. 3519 Walker. 3240144. B, X, $ CHAR RESTAURANT—Specializing in modern Southern cuisine, this eatery offers homestyle sides, charbroiled steaks, and fresh seafood. 431 S. Highland, Suite 120. 249-3533. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ DERAE RESTAURANT—Ethiopian and Mediterranean fare includes fuul, or fava beans in spices and yogurt, goat meat and rice, and garlic chicken over basmati rice with cilantro chutney; also salmon and tilapia. Closed Monday. 923 S. Highland. 5523992. B, L, D, $-$$ EL PORTON—Fajitas, quesadillas, and steak ranchero are just a few of the menu items. 2095 Merchants Row (Germantown). 754-4268; 8361 Highway 64. 380-7877; 3448 Poplar (Poplar Plaza). 452-7330; 1805 N. Germantown Parkway (Cordova). 6249358; 1016 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-5770. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ MEDALLION—Offers steaks, seafood, chicken, and pasta entrees. Closed for dinner Sunday. 3700 Central, Holiday Inn (Kemmons Wilson School of Hospitality). 678-1030. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ OPEN FLAME—This authentic Persian and Mediterranean eatery specializes in shish kebabs as well as kosher and halal fare. 3445 Poplar. 207-4995. L, D, X, $ PLANT BASED HEAT—All of your favorite Southernstyle recipes, but deliciously transformed into a vegan format. Specialties include the spicy fye junt burger, or the chopped ‘n’ smoked bbq jackfruit sandwich. Closed Sun. 669 S. Highland St. L, D, $ SAM’S DELI—Everything from sandwiches to bibimbap bowls at this local favorite. Closed Mon./Tue. 643 S. Highland St. 454-5582. L, D, $

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The Memphis Dining Guide EAST MEMPHIS (INCLUDES POPLAR/ I-240)

ACRE—Features seasonal modern American cuisine in an avante-garde setting using locally sourced products; also small plates and enclosed garden patio. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 690 S. Perkins. 818-2273. L, D, X, $$-$$$ ANDALUSIA— Authentic Moroccan cuisine, including tagines, brochettes, and briouates. 5101 Sanderlin Ave., Suite 103. 236-7784. L, D, $-$$ AGAVOS COCINA & TEQUILA—Camaron de Tequila, tamales, kabobs, and burgers made with a blend of beef and chorizo are among the offerings at this tequila-centric restaurant and bar. 2924 Walnut Grove. 433-9345. L, D, X, $-$$ AMERIGO—Traditional and contemporary Italian cuisine includes pasta, wood-fired pizza, steaks, and cedarwood-roasted fish. 1239 Ridgeway, Park Place Mall. 761-4000. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ ANDREW MICHAEL ITALIAN KITCHEN— Traditional Italian cuisine with a menu from two of the city’s top chefs that changes seasonally with such entrees as Maw Maw’s ravioli. Closed Sun.-Mon. 712 W. Brookhaven Circle. 347-3569. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ ANOTHER BROKEN EGG CAFE—Offering several varieties of eggs Benedict, waffles, omelets, pancakes, beignets, and other breakfast fare; also burgers, sandwiches, and salads. 6063 Park Ave. 729-7020; 65 S. Highland. 623-7122. B, L, WB, X, $ BANGKOK ALLEY—Thai fusion cuisine includes noodle and curry dishes, chef-specialty sushi rolls, coconut soup, and duck and seafood entrees. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. at Brookhaven location; call for hours. 715 W. Brookhaven Circle. 590-2585; 2150 W. Poplar at Houston Levee (Collierville). 854-8748. L, D, X, $-$$ BENIHANA—This Japanese steakhouse serves beef, chicken, and seafood grilled at the table; some menu items change monthly; sushi bar also featured. 912 Ridge Lake Blvd. 767-8980. L, D, X, $$-$$$ BIG BAD BREAKFAST—Fresh biscuits, house-made cured meats, jams, jellies, and more for the most important meal of the day. 6450 Poplar. More details coming soon. BROOKLYN BRIDGE ITALIAN RESTAURANT—Specializing in such homemade entrees as spinach lasagna and lobster ravioli; a seafood specialty is horseradish-crusted salmon. Closed Sun. 1779 Kirby Pkwy. 755-7413. D, X, $-$$$ BRYANT’S BREAKFAST—Three-egg omelets, pancakes, and The Sampler Platter are among the popular entrees here. Possibly the best biscuits in town. Closed Mon. and Tues. 3965 Summer. 324-7494. B, L, X, $ BUCKLEY’S FINE FILET GRILL—Specializes in steaks, seafood, and pasta. (Lunchbox serves entree salads, burgers, and more.) 5355 Poplar. 683-4538; 919 S. Yates (Buckley’s Lunchbox), 682-0570. L (Yates only, M-F), D, X, $-$$ CAPITAL GRILLE—Known for its dry-aged, hand-carved steaks; among the specialties are bone-in sirloin, and porcini-rubbed Delmonico; also seafood entrees and seasonal lunch plates. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. Crescent Center, 6065 Poplar. 683-9291. L, D, X, $$$-$$$$ CASABLANCA—Lamb shawarma is one of the fresh, homemade specialties served at this Mediterranean/Moroccan restaurant; fish entrees and vegetarian options also available. 5030 Poplar. 7258557 ; 7609 Poplar Pike (Germantown). 425-5908; 1707 Madison. 421-6949. L, D, X, $-$$ CIAO BELLA—Among the Italian and Greek specialties are lasagna, seafood pasta, gourmet pizzas, and vegetarian options. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 565 Erin Dr., Erin Way Shopping Center. 205-2500. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$ CITY SILO TABLE + PANTRY—With a focus on clean eating, this establishment offers fresh juices, as well as comfort foods re-imagined with wholesome ingredients. 5101 Sanderlin. 7297687. Germantown: 7605 W. Farmington Blvd., Suite 2. 236-7223. B, L, D, X, $ COASTAL FISH COMPANY—Upscale offerings of international fish varieties utilizing styles ranging from Carribbean, East Coast, West Coast, Chinese, to Filipino, and more. 415 Great View Dr. E., Suite 101. 266-9000. D, X, $$-$$$ CORKY’S—Popular barbecue emporium offers both wet and dry ribs, plus a full menu of other barbecue entrees. Wed. lunch buffets, Cordova and Collierville. 5259 Poplar. 685-9744; 1740 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 737-1911; 743 W. Poplar (Collierville). 405-4999; 6434 Goodman Rd., Olive Branch. 662-893-3663. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$

DAN MCGUINNESS PUB—Serves fish and chips, shepherd’s pie, burgers, and other Irish and American fare; also lunch and dinner specials. 4694 Spottswood. 761-3711; 3964 Goodman Rd. 662-890-7611. L, D, X, $ DORY—Chef David Krog whips up Southern specialties with classic French techniques and locally sourced ingredients. Current specialties include pork tenderloin, beef bourguignon, or cocoa-dusted chocolate truffles, with new weekly additions. 716 W. Brookhaven Circle. 310-4290. L, D, X, $$-$$$ ERLING JENSEN—For decades, has presented “globally inspired” cuisine to die for. Specialties are rack of lamb, big game entrees, and fresh fish dishes. 1044 S. Yates. 763-3700. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ ERLING JENSEN SMALL BITES—Enjoy Erling Jensen’s specialty dishes in a sharable, small plate format alongside TopGolf Swing suites. 5069 Sanderlin Ave. 587-9464. L, D, X, $-$$$ FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE—Serves wet-aged and dry-aged steaks, prime beef, chops, and seafood, including salmon, Australian lobster tails, and a catch of the day. 6245 Poplar. 761-6200. D, X, MRA, $$$-$$$$ FOLK’S FOLLY ORIGINAL PRIME STEAK HOUSE—Specializes in prime steaks, as well as lobster, grilled Scottish salmon, Alaskan king crab legs, rack of lamb, and weekly specials. 551 S. Mendenhall. 762-8200. D, X, MRA, $$$-$$$$ FORMOSA—Offers Mandarin cuisine, including broccoli beef, hot-and-sour soup, and spring rolls. Closed Mon. 6685 Quince. 753-9898. L, D, X, $-$$ FOX RIDGE PIZZA & GRILL—Pizzas, calzones, sub sandwiches, burgers, and meat-and-two plate lunches are among the dishes served at this eatery, which opened in 1979. 711 W. Brookhaven Circle. 758-6500. L, D, X, $ FRATELLI’S—Serves hot and cold sandwiches, salads, soups, and desserts, all with an Italian/Mediterranean flair. Closed Sun. 750 Cherry Rd., Memphis Botanic Garden. 766-9900. L, X, $ FRANK GRISANTI’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT—Northern Italian favorites include pasta with jumbo shrimp and mushrooms; also seafood, filet mignon, and daily lunch specials. Closed for lunch Sun. Embassy Suites Hotel, 1022 S. Shady Grove. 761-9462. L, D, X, $-$$$ HALF SHELL—Specializes in seafood, such as king crab legs; also serves steaks, chicken, pastas, salads, sandwiches, a ”voodoo menu”; oyster bar at Winchester location. 688 S. Mendenhall. 682-3966; 7825 Winchester. 737-6755. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ HEN HOUSE—Hybrid wine/cocktail bar and tasting room with plenty of cosmopolitan eats. Closed Sun. 679 S. Mendenhall. 499-5436. D, $-$$$ HIGH POINT PIZZA—Serves a variety of pizzas, subs, salads, and sides. Closed Mon. A neighborhood fixture. 477 High Point Terrace. 452-3339. L, D, X, $-$$ HOG & HOMINY—The casual sister to Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen serves brick-oven-baked pizzas, including the Red-Eye with pork belly, and small plates with everything from meatballs to beef and cheddar hot dogs; and local veggies. And with a few surprises this time around. Closed for lunch Mon. 707 W. Brookhaven Cir. 207-7396. L, D, SB, X, MRA. $-$$$ HOUSTON’S—Serves steaks, seafood, pork chops, chicken dishes, sandwiches, salads, and Chicago-style spinach dip. Famous for first-class service. 5000 Poplar. 683-0915. L, D, X $-$$$ LA BAGUETTE—An almond croissant and chicken salad are among specialties at this French-style bistro. Closed for dinner Sun. 3088 Poplar. 458-0900. B, L, D (closes at 7), X, MRA, $ LAS DELICIAS—Popular for its guacamole, house-made tortilla chips, and margaritas, this restaurant draws diners with its chicken enchiladas, meat-stuffed flautas, and Cuban torta with spicy pork. Closed Sun. 4002 Park Ave. 458-9264; 5689 Quince. 800-2873. L, D, X, $ LIBRO AT LAURELWOOD—Bookstore eatery features a variety of sandwiches, salads, and homemade pasta dishes, with Italianinspired options such as carbonara and potato gnocchi. Closed for dinner Sun. 387 Perkins Ext. (Novel). 800-2656. B, L, D, SB, X, $-$$ LOST PIZZA—Offering pizzas (with dough made from scratch), pasta, salads, sandwiches, tamales, and more. 2855 Poplar. 5721803; 5960 Getwell (Southaven). 662-892-8684. L, D, X, $-$$ LYNCHBURG LEGENDS—This restaurant with a Jack Daniels’ theme and Southern cuisine serves such entrees as Bourbon Street salmon, buttermilk-fried chicken, and grilled steak and wild mushroom salad. DoubleTree Hotel, 5069 Sanderlin. 969-7777. B, L, D, X, $-$$$

MAGNOLIA & MAY—The family behind Grove Grill cooks up Southern-inspired casual dining at this country brasserie, with popular menu items like peach gazpacho, low country shrimp n’ grits, and plenty of weekend brunch options. Closed Mon. 718 Mt. Moriah Rd. 676-8100. D, SB, MRA. $$-$$$. MAHOGANY MEMPHIS—Upscale Southern restaurant offers such dishes as coffee-rubbed lamb chops and baked Cajun Cornish hen. Closed for dinner Sun. and all day Mon.-Tues. 3092 Poplar, Suite 11. 623-7977. L, D, SB, X, $-$$$ MARCIANO MEDITERRANEAN AND ITALIAN CUISINE— Veal Saltimbocca with angel-hair pasta and white wine sauce is among the entrees; also steaks, seafood, and gourmet pizza. 780 E. Brookhaven Cir. 682-1660. D, X, $-$$ MAYURI INDIAN CUISINE—Serves tandoori chicken, masala dosa, tikka masala, as well as lamb and shrimp entrees; also a daily lunch buffet, and dinner buffet on Fri.-Sat. 6524 Quince Rd. 753-8755. L, D, X, $-$$ MELLOW MUSHROOM—Large menu includes assortment of pizzas, salads, calzones, hoagies, vegetarian options, and 50 beers on tap. 5138 Park Ave. 562-1211; 9155 Poplar, Shops of Forest Hill (Germantown). 907-0243. L, D, X, $-$$ MOSA ASIAN BISTRO—Specialties include sesame chicken, Thai calamari, rainbow panang curry with grouper fish, and other Pan Asian/fusion entrees. Closed Mon. 850 S. White Station Rd. 683-8889. L, D, X, MRA, $ NAM KING—Offers luncheon and dinner buffets, dim sum, and such specialties as fried dumplings, pepper steak, and orange chicken. 4594 Yale. 373-4411. L, D, X, $ NAPA CAFE—Among the specialties are miso-marinated salmon over black rice with garlic spinach and shiitake mushrooms. Closed Sun. 5101 Sanderlin, Suite 122. 683-0441. L, D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ NEW HUNAN—Chinese eatery with more than 80 entrees; also lunch/dinner buffets. 5052 Park. 766-1622. L, D, X, $ ONE & ONLY BBQ—On the menu are pork barbecue sandwiches, platters, wet and dry ribs, smoked chicken and turkey platters, a smoked meat salad, barbecue quesadillas, Brunswick Stew, and Millie’s homemade desserts. 1779 Kirby Pkwy. 751-3615; 567 Perkins Extd. 249-4227. L, D, X, $ ONO POKÉ—This eatery specializes in poké — a Hawaiian dish of fresh fish salad served over rice. Menu includes a variety of poké bowls, like the Kimchi Tuna bowl, or customers can build their own by choosing a base, protein, veggies, and toppings. 3145 Poplar. 618-2955. L, D, X, $ OWEN BRENNAN’S—New Orleans-style menu of beef, chicken, pasta, and seafood; jambalaya, shrimp and grits, and crawfish etouffee are specialties. Closed for dinner Sun. The Regalia, 6150 Poplar. 761-0990. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ PARK + CHERRY—The Dixon offers casual dining within the museum. Seasonal menu features sandwiches, like rustic chicken salad on croissant, as well as salads, snacks, and sweets. Closed for breakfast Sun. and all day Mon. 4339 Park (Dixon Gallery and Gardens). 761-5250. L, X, $ PATRICK’S—Serves barbecue nachos, burgers, and entrees such as fish and chips; also plate lunches and daily specials. 4972 Park. 682-2852. L, D, X, MRA, $ PETE & SAM’S—Serving Memphis for 60-plus years; offers steaks, seafood, and traditional Italian dishes, including homemade ravioli, lasagna, and chicken marsala. 3886 Park. 458-0694. D, X, $-$$$ PF CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO—Specialties are orange peel shrimp, Mongolian beef, and chicken in lettuce wraps; also vegetarian dishes, including spicy eggplant. 1181 Ridgeway Rd., Park Place Centre. 818-3889. L, D, X, $-$$ PHO SAIGON—Vietnamese fare includes beef teriyaki, roasted quail, curry ginger chicken, vegetarian options, and a variety of soups. 2946 Poplar. 458-1644. L, D, $ PIMENTO’S KITCHEN + MARKET—Fresh sandwiches, soups, salads, and plenty of pimento cheese at this family-owned restaurant. 6540 Poplar Ave. 602-5488 (Collierville: 3751 S. Houston Levee. 453-6283). L, D, X, $ PYRO’S FIRE-FRESH PIZZA—Serving gourmet pizzas cooked in an open-fire oven, wide choice of toppings, and large local and craft beer selection. 1199 Ridgeway. 379-8294; 2035 Union Ave. 208-8857; 2286 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 207-1198; 3592 S. Houston Levee (Collierville). 221-8109. L, D, X, MRA, $ RED HOOK CAJUN SEAFOOD & BAR—Cajun-style array of seafood including shrimp, mussels, clams, crawfish, and oysters. 3295 Poplar. 207-1960. L, D, X, $-$$

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4/14/22 5:51 PM

The Memphis Dining Guide

RED KOI—Classic Japanese cuisine offered at this family-run restaurant; hibachi steaks, sushi, seafood, chicken, and vegetables. 5847 Poplar. 767-3456. L, D, X $-$$ RED PIER CAJUN SEAFOOD & BAR—Owners of Red Hook bring more cajun-style seafood dishes. 5901 Poplar Ave. 512-5923. L, D, $-$$$ RESTAURANT IRIS—French Creole-inspired classics, such as Gulf shrimp and rice grits congee served with lap chong sausage and boiled peanuts, are served at this newly remodeled restaurant owned by Chef Kelly English, a Food and Wine “Top Ten.” Opening soon at 4550 Poplar. 590-2828. D, X, $$-$$$ RIVER OAKS—Chef Jose Gutierrez’s French-style bistro serves seafood and steaks, with an emphasis on fresh local ingredients. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 5871 Poplar Ave. 683-9305. L, D, X, $$$ RONNIE GRISANTI’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT— This Memphis institution serves some family classics such as Elfo’s Special and handmade ravioli, along with house-made pizza and fresh oysters. Closed Sun. 6150 Poplar, Suite 122. 850-0191. D, X, $-$$$ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE—Offers prime steaks cut and aged in-house, as well as lamb, chicken, and fresh seafood, including lobster. 6120 Poplar. 761-0055. D, X, $$$-$$$$ SALSA—Mexican-Southern California specialties include carnitas, enchiladas verde, and fajitas; also Southwestern seafood dishes such as snapper verde. Closed Sun. Regalia Shopping Center, 6150 Poplar, Suite 129. 683-6325. L, D, X, $-$$ SAUCY CHICKEN—Specializes in antibiotic-free chicken dishes with locally sourced ingredients, with such items as hot wings and the Crosstown Chicken Sandwich, and a variety of house-made dipping sauces; also, seafood, salads, and daily specials. Closed Sun. 4715 Poplar. 907-0741. L, D, $ SEASONS 52—This elegant fresh grill and wine bar offers a seasonally changing menu using fresh ingredients, wood-fire grilling, and brick-oven cooking; also a large international wine list and nightly piano bar. Crescent Center, 6085 Poplar. 682-9952. L, D, X, $$-$$$ SOBEAST—Eastern branch of the popular South of Beale, featuring the restaurant’s traditional staples, as well as rotating special menu items. 5040 Sanderlin. 818-0821. L, D, SB, X, $-$$. SOUTHALL CAFE—Locally sourced ingredients bolster a chef-driven menu offering breakfast and lunch classics. 669 S. Mendenhall. 646-5698. B, L, WB, X, $ STAKS—Offering pancakes, including birthday cake and lemon ricotta. Menu includes other breakfast items such as beignets and French toast, as well as soups and sandwiches for lunch. 4615 Poplar. 509-2367; 7704 Poplar (Germantown). 800-1951; 2902 May Blvd. (Southaven). B, L, WB, X, $ SWANKY’S TACO SHOP—Taco-centric eatery offers tortas, flatbreads, quesadillas, chimichangas, burgers, and more. 4770 Poplar. 730-0763; 6641 Poplar (Germantown). 737-2088; 272 S. Main. 779-3499. L, D, X, $ THREE LITTLE PIGS—Pork-shoulder-style barbecue with tangy mild or hot sauce, freshly made coleslaw, and baked beans. 5145 Quince Rd. 685-7094. B, L, D, X, $ TOPS BAR-B-Q—Specializes in pork barbecue sandwiches and sandwich plates with beans and slaw; also serves ribs, beef brisket, and burgers. 1286 Union. 725-7527; 4183 Summer. 324-4325; 5391 Winchester. 794-7936; 3970 Rhodes. 323-9865; 6130 Macon. 371-0580. For more locations, go online. L, D, X, $ TORCHY’S TACOS—Plenty of Tex-Mex variety, with creative monthly special tacos. 719 S. Mendenhall. 3438880. B, L, D, $ VENICE KITCHEN—Specializes in “eclectic Italian” and Southern Creole, from pastas, including the “Godfather,” to hand-tossed pizzas, including the “John Wayne”; choose from 50 toppings. 368 Perkins Ext. 767-6872. L, D, SB, X, $-$$ WANG’S MANDARIN HOUSE—Offers Mandarin, Cantonese, Szechuan, and spicy Hunan entrees, including the golden-sesame chicken; next door is East Tapas, serving small plates with an Asian twist. 6065 Park Ave., Park Place Mall. 763-0676. L, D, X, $-$$ WASABI—Serving traditional Japanese offerings, hibachi, sashimi, and sushi. The Sweet Heart roll, wrapped — in the shape of a heart — with tuna and filled with spicy salmon, yellowtail, and avocado, is a specialty. 5101 Sanderlin Rd., Suite 105. 4216399. L, D, X, $-$$

WOMAN’S EXCHANGE TEA ROOM—Chicken-salad plate, beef tenderloin, soups-and-sandwiches, and vegetable plates are specialties; meal includes drink and dessert. Closed Sat.-Sun. 88 Racine. 327-5681. L, X, $ ZAYDE’S AT THE J—Kosher options at the Memphis Jewish Community Center cafe include traditional New York-style dishes and Israeli fusion. 6560 Poplar Ave. 208-3495. L, D, $-$$

CORDOVA BOMBAY HOUSE—Indian fare includes lamb korma and chicken tikka; also, a daily luncheon buffet. 1727 N. Germantown Pkwy. 755-4114. L, D, X, $-$$ THE BUTCHER SHOP—Serves steaks ranging from 8-oz. filets to a 20-oz. porterhouse; also chicken, pork chops, fresh seafood. 107 S. Germantown Rd. 757-4244. L (Fri. and Sun.), D, X, $$-$$$ GREEN BAMBOO—Pineapple tilapia, pork vermicelli, and the soft egg noodle combo are Vietnamese specialties here. 990 N. Germantown Parkway, Suite 104. 753-5488. L, D, $-$$ JIM ’N NICK’S BAR-B-Q—Serves barbecued pork, ribs, chicken, brisket, and fish, along with other homemade Southern specialties. 2359 N. Germantown Pkwy. 388-0998. L, D, X, $-$$ EL MERO TACO—This food truck turned restaurant serves up Mexican and Southern-style fusion dishes, including fried chicken tacos, chorizo con papas tacos, and brisket quesadillas. 8100 Macon Station, Suite 102. 308-1661. Closed Sun.-Mon. L, D, WB, X, $ POKÉ WORLD—Serves up Hawaiian poké bowls filled with rice and diced, raw fish. Also offers Taiwanese bubble tea and rolled ice cream for dessert. 1605 N. Germantown Pkwy., Suite 111. 623-7986. East Memphis: 575 Erin Dr. 779-4971. L, D, $ SHOGUN JAPANESE RESTAURANT—Entrees include tempura, teriyaki, and sushi, as well as grilled fish and chicken entrees. 2324 N. Germantown Pkwy. 384-4122. L, D, X, $-$$ TANNOOR GRILL—Brazilian-style steakhouse with skewers served tableside, along with Middle Eastern specialties; vegetarian options also available. 830 N. Germantown Pkwy. 443-5222. L, D, X, $-$$$

GERMANTOWN

BLUE HONEY BISTRO—Entrees at this upscale eatery include brown butter scallops served with Mississippi blue rice and herb-crusted beef tenderloin with vegetables and truffle butter. Closed Sun. 9155 Poplar, Suite 17. 552-3041. D, X, $-$$$ FOREST HILL GRILL—A variety of standard pub fare and a selection of mac-and-cheese dishes are featured on the menu. Specialties include Chicken Newport and a barbecue salmon BLT. 9102 Poplar Pike. 624-6001. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ GERMANTOWN COMMISSARY—Serves barbecue sandwiches, sliders, ribs, shrimp, and nachos, as well as smoked barbecued bologna sandwiches; Mon.-night all-you-can-eat ribs. 2290 S. Germantown Rd. S. 754-5540. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ LAS TORTUGAS DELI MEXICANA—Authentic Mexican food prepared from local food sources; specializes in tortugas — grilled bread scooped out to hold such powerfully popular fillings as brisket, pork, and shrimp; also tingas, tostados. Closed Sun. 1215 S. Germantown Rd. 751-1200; 6300 Poplar. 623-3882. L, D, X, $-$$ MOONDANCE GRILL—From the owners of Itta Bena and Lafayette’s. Serves steak cooked sous vide and seafood dishes including Abita-barbecued shrimp and pan-seared sand dab, in addition to an extensive wine and cocktail list. 1730 S. Germantown Road, Suite 117. 755-1471. L, D, X, $$-$$$ NOODLES ASIAN BISTRO—Serves a variety of traditional Asian cuisine, with emphasis on noodle dishes, such as Singapore Street Noodles and Hong Kong Chow Fun. 7850 Poplar, Suite 12. 755-1117. L, D, X, $ PETRA CAFÉ—Serves Greek, Italian, and Middle Eastern sandwiches, gyros, and entrees. Hours vary; call. 6641 Poplar. 754-4440; 547 S. Highland. 323-3050. L, D, X, $-$$ ROCK’N DOUGH PIZZA CO.—Specialty and custom pizzas made from fresh ingredients; wide variety of toppings. 7850 Poplar, Suite 6. 779-2008. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $$ ROYAL PANDA—Hunan fish, Peking duck, Royal Panda chicken and shrimp, and a seafood combo are among the specialties. 3120 Village Shops Dr. 756-9697. L, D, X, $-$$ SAKURA—Sushi, tempura, and teriyaki are Japanese specialties here. 2060 West St. 758-8181; 4840 Poplar. 572-1002. L, D, X, $-$$ SOUTHERN SOCIAL—Shrimp and grits, stuffed quail, and Aunt Thelma’s Fried Chicken are among the dishes served at this upscale

Southern establishment. 2285 S. Germantown Rd. 754-5555. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ TAZIKI’S—Mediterranean-inspired dishes all made from scratch. 7850 Poplar Ave., Suite 26. 612-2713. East Memphis: 540 S. Mendenhall Rd. 290-1091. Bartlett: 7974 US-64. 203-0083. L, D, $ UNCLE GOYO’S—More than 30 dishes with a focus on authentic Mexican cuisine, from the brains behind TacoNganas. 1730 S. Germantown Rd. L, D, $-$$ WEST STREET DINER—This home-style eatery offers breakfast, burgers, po’boys, and more. 2076 West St. 757-2191. B, L, D (Mon.Fri.), X, $ ZEN JAPANESE FINE CUISINE—A full sushi bar and plenty of authentic Japanese dishes, like Hibachi or Wagyu beef. 1730 S. Germantown Rd. 779-2796. L, D, X, X, $-$$$

COLLIERVILLE

CAFE EUROPE—From Italian chef Michele D’oto, the French, Spanish, and Italian fusion cuisine includes a variety of dishes like Rosette al Forno, fish ceviche, and sole meuniere. Closed Sun. 4610 Merchants Park Circle, Suite 571. 286-4199. L, D, X, $$-$$$$ CAFE PIAZZA BY PAT LUCCHESI—Specializes in gourmet pizzas (including create-your-own), panini sandwiches, and pasta. Closed Sun. 139 S. Rowlett St. 861-1999. L, D, X, $-$$ CIAO BABY—Specializing in Neapolitan-style pizza made in a wood-fired oven. Also serves house-made mozzarella, pasta, appetizers, and salads. 890 W. Poplar, Suite 1. 457-7457. L, D, X, $ COLLIERVILLE COMMISSARY—Serves barbecue sandwiches, sliders, ribs, shrimp, and nachos, as well as smoked barbecued bologna sandwiches. 3573 S. Houston Levee Rd. 979-5540. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ DAVID GRISANTI’S—Serving Northern Italian cuisine and traditional family recipes, like the Elfo Special, shrimp sauteed in garlic and butter, tossed with white button mushrooms and white pepper, and served over vermicelli with Parmigiano-Reggiano. Closed Sun. 684 W. Poplar (Sheffield Antiques Mall). 861-1777. L, D (Thurs.-Sat.), X, $-$$$ EL MEZCAL—Serves burritos, chimichangas, fajitas, and other Mexican cuisine, as well as shrimp dinners and steak. 9947 Wolf River, 853-7922; 402 Perkins Extd. 761-7710; 694 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 755-1447; 1492 Union. 274-4264; 11615 Airline Rd. (Arlington). 867-1883; 9045 Highway 64 (Lakeland). 383-4219; 7164 Hacks Cross Rd. (Olive Branch). 662-890-3337; 8834 Hwy. 51 N. (Millington). 872-3220; 7424 Highway 64 (Bartlett). 417-6026. L, D, X, $ EMERALD THAI RESTAURANT—Spicy shrimp, pad khing, lemongrass chicken, and several noodle, rice, and vegetarian dishes are offered at this family restaurant. Closed Sunday. 8950 Highway 64 (Lakeland, TN). 384-0540. L, D, X, $-$$ FIREBIRDS—Specialties are hand-cut steaks, slow-roasted prime rib, and wood-grilled salmon and other seafood, as well as seasonal entrees. 4600 Merchants Circle, Carriage Crossing. 850-1637; 8470 Highway 64 (Bartlett). 379-1300. L, D, X, $-$$$ JIM’S PLACE GRILLE—Features American, Greek, and Continental cuisine. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 3660 Houston Levee. 861-5000. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$ MULAN ASIAN BISTRO—Hunan Chicken, tofu dishes, and orange beef served here; sushi and Thai food, too. 2059 Houston Levee. 850-5288; 2149 Young. 347-3965; 4698 Spottswood. 6098680. L, D, X, $-$$ OSAKA JAPANESE CUISINE—Featuring an extensive sushi menu as well as traditional Japanese and hibachi dining. Hours vary for lunch; call. 3670 Houston Levee. 861-4309; 3402 Poplar. 249-4690; 7164 Hacks Cross (Olive Branch). 662-890-9312; 2200 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 425-4901. L, D, X, $-$$$ RAVEN & LILY—Eatery offers innovative Southerninspired cuisine with such dishes as crispy shrimp and cauliflower salad, spiced lamb sausage and parmesan risotto, and bananas foster pain perdu. Closed Mon. 120 E. Mulberry. 286-4575. L, D, SB, X, $-$$ STIX—Hibachi steakhouse with Asian cuisine features steak, chicken, and a fillet and lobster combination, also sushi. A specialty is Dynamite Chicken with fried rice. 4680 Merchants Park Circle, Avenue Carriage Crossing. 854-3399. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 115 (Downtown). 207-7638 L, D, X, $-$$ WOLF RIVER BRISKET CO.—From the owners of Pyro’s Fire Fresh Pizza, highlights include house-smoked meats: prime beef brisket, chicken, and salmon. Closed Sun. 9947 Wolf River Boulevard, Suite 101. 316-5590; 1350 Concourse Ave., Suite 165. 791-4389 L, D, X, $-$$ ZOPITA’S ON THE SQUARE—Cafe offers sandwiches, including smoked salmon and pork tenderloin, as well as salads and desserts. Closed Sun. 114 N. Main. 457-7526. L, D, X, $

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The Memphis Dining Guide

OUT-OF-TOWN BOZO’S HOT PIT BAR-B-Q—Barbecue, burgers, sandwiches, and subs. 342 Highway 70 (Mason, TN). 901-294-3400. L, D, $-$$ CATFISH BLUES—Serving Delta-raised catfish and Cajun- and Southern-inspired dishes, including gumbo and fried green tomatoes. 210 E. Commerce (Hernando, MS). 662-298-3814. L, D, $ CITY GROCERY—Southern eclectic cuisine; shrimp and grits is a specialty. Closed for dinner Sun. 152 Courthouse Square (Oxford, MS). 662-232-8080. L, D, SB, X, $$-$$$ COMO STEAKHOUSE—Steaks cooked on a hickory charcoal grill are a specialty here. Upstairs is an oyster bar. Closed Sun. 203 Main St. (Como, MS). 662-526-9529. D, X, $-$$$ ELFO GRISANTI’S NORTHERN ITALIAN CUISINE— Grisanti family classics like lasagna, homemade ravioli, garlic bread, and Northern Italian pizza. Closed Sun. 5627 Getwell Rd. (Southaven, MS). 662-470-4497. L, D, X, $-$$ LONG ROAD CIDER CO.—Specializes in hard apple ciders made with traditional methods. Cafe-style entrees include black-eyed peas with cornbread and greens, chicken Gorgonzola pockets, cider-steamed sausage, and housemade ice creams. Closed Sun.Wed. 9053 Barret Road. (Barretville, TN). 352-0962. D, X, $ MANILA FILIPINO RESTAURANT—Entrees include pork belly cutlet with lechon sauce, and shrimp and vegetables in tamarind broth; also daily combos, rice dishes, and chef specials. Closed Sun.-Mon. 7849 Rockford (Millington, TN). 209-8525. L, D, X, $

CASINO TABLES BOURBON STREET STEAKHOUSE & GRILL AT SOUTHLAND CASINO RACING—1550 Ingram Blvd., West Memphis, AR, 1-800-467-6182 CHICAGO STEAKHOUSE AT THE GOLDSTRIKE—1010 Casino Center Dr., Robinsonville, MS, 1-888-24KSTAY /662-357-1225 FAIRBANKS AT THE HOLLYWOOD—1150 Casino Strip Blvd., Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-871-0711 JACK BINION’S STEAK HOUSE AT HORSESHOE—1021 Casino Center Drive, Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-303-SHOE LUCKY 8 ASIAN BISTRO AT HORSESHOE—1021 Casino Center Drive, Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-303-SHOE THE STEAKHOUSE AT THE FITZ—711 Lucky Ln., Robinsonville, MS, 1-888-766-LUCK, ext 8213 TWAIN’S STEAKHOUSE AT SAM’S TOWN TUNICA—1477 Casino Strip Resorts Boulevard, Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-456-0711

MARSHALL STEAKHOUSE—Rustic steakhouse serves premium Angus beef steaks, seafood dishes, rack of lamb, and more. 2379 Highway 178 (Holly Springs, MS). 628-3556. B, L, D, X, $-$$$ MEMPHIS BARBECUE COMPANY—Offers spare ribs, baby backs, and pulled pork and brisket. 709 Desoto Cove (Horn Lake, MS). 662-536-3762. L, D, X, $-$$ NAGOYA—Offers traditional Japanese cuisine and sushi bar; specialties are teriyaki and tempura dishes. 7075 Malco Blvd., Suite 101 (Southaven, MS). 662-349-8788. L, D, X, $-$$$ PIG-N-WHISTLE—Offers pork shoulder sandwiches, wet and dry ribs, catfish, nachos, and stuffed barbecue potatoes. 6084 Kerr-Rosemark Rd. (Millington, TN). 872-2455. L, D, X, $ RAVINE—Serves contemporary Southern cuisine with an emphasis on fresh, locally grown foods and a menu that changes weekly. Closed Mon.-Tues. 53 Pea Ridge/County Rd. 321 (Oxford, MS). 662-234-4555. D, SB, X, $$-$$$ SAINT LEO’S—Offering sophisticated pizzas, pastas, sandwiches, and salads. A James Beard nominee for Best New Restaurant in 2017. 1101 Jackson (Oxford, MS). 662-234-4555. D, L, WB, $-$$ SNACKBAR—An intriguing mix of “French Bistro with North Mississippi Cafe.” Serving a confit duck Croque Monsieur, watermelon-cucumber chaat, pan-fried quail, plus a daily plate special and a raw bar. 721 N. Lamar (Oxford, MS). 662-236-6363. D, $-$$$ TEKILA MODERN MEXICAN—Modern interpretations of classic dishes from all over Mexico. 6343 Getwell Rd. (Southaven, MS). 662-510-5734. B, L, D, $-$$ WILSON CAFE—Serving elevated home-cooking, with such dishes as deviled eggs with cilantro and jalapeño, scampi and grits, and doughnut bread pudding. 2 N. Jefferson (Wilson, AR). 870-655-0222. L, D (Wed. through Sat. only), X, $-$$$

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L AS T

S TA N D

What’s in a Name?

You think it’s easy guarding somebody like my Abby? It’s a dog’s life, I tell you.

first met my Abby when I was behind bars. I wasn’t in prison, just a kennel, I’m told, but I did have an ID number that I could never keep straight. I’m no good with keeping track of numbers. My Abby tells me I’ve already had my two meals today, but I could’ve sworn I only had one, or maybe none at all. I’ll wait a few minutes to ask again; maybe I can get a treat if I sit in front of the pantry door and whine just a bit. That sounds like a good plan. No, a perfect one. I could really go for a Milkbone right now — or two or seven or 8,160. Wait! That was my ID number: 8160. That’s a tricky number, if you ask me, so the wardens called me Blob Fish. They told me it was a temporary name until I found my Forever Home.

When my Abby busted me out of there for a special, offsite seven-day Transport Foster Mission, she called me Blob Fish, sometimes just Fish. Fish? Fish

are food, not friends. Do I look like a fish to you? In fact, I know I didn’t look like a fish then; whenever my Abby would introduce me to someone or call her parents

to update them on our operation, she’d say, “Oh, he’s just a Foster.” And we all know what a Foster is — code for a gorgeous being who shares the same level of gorgeousness as Jodie Foster. Would you My government say that Jodie name: Blobert. Foster looks My anarchist like a f ish? No, I bet you name: Blobby. I am an original, wouldn’t, but I bet you could and anarchy is say I was the my calling. Jodie Foster to my Abby’s Hannibal Lecter — though between the two of us, I’m pretty sure I’m the one with the killer instincts. You should see me chase off that cat burglar that comes in our backyard. My Abby screams at me not to hurt her, says she’s not worth me having blood on my paws. I wonder where that cat is now? Probably taunting me from behind the shed. I haven’t been outside since five minutes ago; I’m sure she’s up to no good. I’ll have to check the perimeter soon. Anyways, my Abby’s accomplice, whose name was Roommate, started calling me Blobby, and that was a code name I could get behind. My government name: Blobert. My anarchist name: Blobby. I am an original, and anarchy is my calling. My duties as Blobby include protecting the home from potential bugs that listen in on our conversations. I won’t lie: I’m not the best at this part, but I will chase any bug that buzzes by. Once, I did succeed in catching one of the critters. I caught it right in my mouth and it stung me. I was down for the day, covered in hives. I had to take these little pills from some co-conspirator named Ben — Ben A. Dryl, I think. I would hate a name like that, but I don’t remember much

from that day. Oh, the sacrifices I make to protect my Abby. And I’m willing to make more sacrifices if need be. I let my Abby know that every day when I volunteer to be her food-taster — you know, in case of poison. But almost every meal, when I sit by her side, she takes the first bite. I try to stop her. I drool and whine and beg for her to let me have it or to eat the rest of it … just in case. The worst part: I know she poisons herself just a little bit almost every day with that stuff called Chocolate — she tells me as much — but I could handle it if she just let me eat some, too. At night, though, she lets me go undercover while she sleeps. Here’s the unspoken plan: If an intruder (my money’s on that cat burglar) comes in, I will surprise them from my hiding spot under the covers. Sometimes, my Abby forgets our plan, so I nudge her to wake up and to hold the sheets up so I can crawl under them. I have to wake her up a bunch, in the mornings, too. What would she do without me? She’d be lost. I guess that’s why our seven-day Transport Foster Mission got extended into a lifetime Adoption Mission. My Abby isn’t just my Abby anymore — she’s my mom, too. Still, I’m just Blobby. It’s no longer a code name or temporary placeholder; it’s engraved on my shiny tag that hangs from my collar, so I’m told. Some say that my name is “unique”; others, like my grandparents, say my name is “stupid,” though that’s not a word in my vocabulary. I’m just happy my name isn’t 8160 — but it would be a pretty cool nickname for when I reach my goal of 8,160 treats in a day. I’m sure I can do it, right after I catch this cat first and maybe that bug, too.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ABIGAIL MORICI

BY BLOBBY

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4/12/22 6:08 PM

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