Memphis Flyer - 4/1/2021

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FRESH STORIES DAILY AT MEMPHISFLYER.COM VALERIE JUNE P15 • BLUE NOTE WHISKEY P19 • ZACK SNYDER’S JUSTICE LEAGUE P20

OUR 1675TH ISSUE 04.01.21

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JERRY D. SWIFT Advertising Director Emeritus KELLI DEWITT, CHIP GOOGE Senior Account Executives MICHELLE MUSOLF Account Executive DESHAUNE MCGHEE Classified Advertising Manager ROBBIE FRENCH Warehouse and Delivery Manager JANICE GRISSOM ELLISON, KAREN MILAM, DON MYNATT, TAMMY NASH, RANDY ROTZ, LEWIS TAYLOR, WILLIAM WIDEMAN Distribution THE MEMPHIS FLYER is published weekly by Contemporary Media, Inc., P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101 Phone: (901) 521-9000 Fax: (901) 521-0129 memphisflyer.com CONTEMPORARY MEDIA, INC. ANNA TRAVERSE FOGLE Chief Executive Officer ASHLEY HAEGER Controller JEFFREY GOLDBERG Chief Revenue Officer BRUCE VANWYNGARDEN Editorial Director MARGIE NEAL Production Operations Director KRISTIN PAWLOWSKI Digital Services Director LYNN SPARAGOWSKI Circulation and Accounting Manager KALENA MATTHEWS Marketing Coordinator

National Newspaper Association

Association of Alternative Newsmedia

Gammon Estate Sale

Wed March 31Sat April 3rd 3 Full Estates Estate Auction

Sat April 3 5:30pm Closed Easter PARK IN REAR

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m e m p h i s f l y e r. c o m

CARRIE BEASLEY Senior Art Director CHRISTOPHER MYERS Advertising Art Director BRYAN ROLLINS Graphic Designer

CONTENTS

BRUCE VANWYNGARDEN Editor SHARA CLARK Managing Editor JACKSON BAKER Senior Editor TOBY SELLS Associate Editor CHRIS MCCOY Film and TV Editor ALEX GREENE Music Editor SAMUEL X. CICCI, MICHAEL DONAHUE, JON W. SPARKS Staff Writers JESSE DAVIS Copy Editor, Staff Writer JULIE RAY Calendar Editor LORNA FIELD, RANDY HASPEL, RICHARD MURFF, FRANK MURTAUGH, MEGHAN STUTHARD Contributing Columnists AIMEE STIEGEMEYER, SHARON BROWN Grizzlies Reporters ANDREA FENISE Fashion Editor KENNETH NEILL Founding Publisher

OUR 1675TH ISSUE 04.01.21 In a democracy — or, if you prefer, a republic — the government’s actions are supposed to reflect the will of the majority. That’s why we vote: to discover who the majority of the citizenry wants to hold office and what policies they want to have put in place by those they have elected. That’s how it’s supposed to work. But the sad reality is that the United States has for years been ruled by a backward-thinking, repressive, xenophobic minority. There are many reasons for this, starting with the fact that the nation’s most powerful legislative body — the U.S. Senate — is absurdly undemocratic. Republican senators haven’t represented a real majority of the country’s population since 1996, yet the GOP has managed to delay and obstruct the will of the majority for 25 years. Currently, the 50 GOP senators represent 43.5 percent of the country’s population, mostly due to the absurdity of states such as Wyoming, which has 578,000 citizens (about half the number of people living in Shelby County) having the same representation in the U.S. Senate as California’s 40 million citizens. California has 80 times the number of people as Wyoming and both states have equal representation in the Senate. It’s ludicrous. More than 56 percent of the country’s population is represented by 50 Democratic senators, but they can’t pass gun-control measures, election reform, healthcare reform, tax reform, or any number of mildly progressive laws, because Senator Turd Ferguson of South Dakota doesn’t like it. There’s little likelihood real change will take place in the structure of the Senate, and the GOP knows the only chance of retaining power is to continue to thwart the will of the majority by making it harder for people to vote, especially people of color and people Senator Turd Ferguson with limited resources, who tend to vote for Democrats. All across the country in states controlled by the GOP, restrictive voting laws are being proposed and enacted, including reducing the number of polling places and early voting days, restricting voting by mail, purging voter rolls, limiting voter-registration periods, restricting absentee ballots, eliminating Sunday voting, and even banning anyone from providing water to people in long voting lines. It’s Jim Crow all over again. And it’s out in the open. From last November through January 6th, the former president defamed the American electoral process. But those who went along with Trump’s Big Lie weren’t trying to “stop the steal,” they were trying to stop democracy. And they still are. The U.S. House of Representatives recently passed (on a party line vote, naturally) a bill known as H.R. 1 — the For the People Act. It would eliminate the voter suppression tactics that Georgia just enacted, for example, and would codify the voting process to make it equal for all U.S. citizens, no matter what state they live in. The bill requires states to maintain a voter database with universal automatic registration. In other words, if you’re a citizen and can prove it, you’re registered to vote. No more jumping through hoops at the local level. H.R. 1 mandates at least a 15-day early voting period, and institutes independent commissions to set Congressional district boundaries to eliminate gerrymandering. It’s a big deal, but it has no chance whatsoever to pass the Senate, since it would need at least 10 GOP votes. Which brings Senate Democrats to a crossroads decision: Should they attempt to eliminate the filibuster so that the bill could pass with 50 votes, plus N E WS & O P I N I O N one from the vice-president, or just let the THE FLY-BY - 4 GOP do what it’s done for the last 25 years: NY TIMES CROSSWORD - 6 undermine the will of the majority? POLITICS - 8 Eliminating the filibuster means if the COVER STORY GOP gets control of the Senate back at “WINGIN’ IT!” BY FLYER STAFF - 10 some future date, they could ram through WE RECOMMEND - 14 all kinds of racist and corporatist policies MUSIC - 15 (kind of like they’ve done for the last four CALENDAR - 16 years). But this is no time to be timid. DeFOOD - 18 mocracy is in the balance. It’s time to take SPIRITS - 19 back the reins of power and respect the will FILM - 20 of the people. It’s time to stop the steal. C LAS S I F I E D S - 21 Bruce VanWyngarden LAST WORD - 23 brucev@memphisflyer.com

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THE

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MEMernet A roundup of Memphis on the World Wide Web. M I N EC R AF TI N’ Instagram user Eric Huber is recreating Rust Hall, the iconic building central to the former Memphis College of Art campus, in Minecraft. The whys of this project don’t matter at all. It’s simple internet genius. POSTED TO INSTAGRAM BY @ERICHBER

April 1-7, 2021

K R O G E R I N’ A Nextdoor Kroger bash is still burning after user Patti Ward complained last week that, after 30 years of shopping at the Union Avenue location, she’ll “never again” shop there. The post racked up 229 comments. The discussion ranged from whether or not the issue was an issue at all, Big Brother, other Kroger locations, other stores, missing Seessel’s, and a proposed 30-day ban on bashing Kroger on Union. The post followed a March 15th post from Rita Baker calling the Union Kroger “the worst grocery store on the planet.”

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E X P LAI N I N’ This week YouTuber Memphis Newz broke down the confusion over rapper Pooh Shiesty’s recent diss of South Memphis, his own neighborhood. “Sometimes when a rapper gets big, their neighborhood will turn against them,” Memphis Newz said. “A lot of the time, it’s the rapper’s fault because they’ll be doing some hoeass shit.” POSTED TO YOUTUBE BY MEMPHIS NEWZ

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Questions, Answers + Attitude Edited by Toby Sells

W E E K T H AT W A S By Flyer staff

Shots, Bugs, & the “Electric Highway” Vaccines open to all adults, a mosquito “boom,” and a plan for electric cars. S H OTS O P E N E D Local leaders opened COVID-19 vaccine appointments to all adults last week. The move came after state officials said they will open appointments to all adults no later than April 5th. State officials also allowed counties to move through vaccine phases as they choose. The decision from state officials was based on two things, according to Tennessee Department of Health Commissioner Dr. Lisa Piercey: low uptake and growing supply. Piercey said uptake of the vaccine has been uneven across the state. Shot appointments were less than 20 percent filled in rural GEARGODZ | DREAMSTIME.COM SHELBY COUNTY HEALTH DEPARTMENT West Tennessee. But slots were more than 80 percent filled in the upper Cumberland region of COVID vaccine appointments in Shelby County are open to all adults (left); Middle Tennessee, she said. For to combat a projected mosquito “boom,” crews pour larvicide this, she said anyone who cannot find an appointment in their home county can travel to As for freezing temperatures killing off vast populations of another county for a vaccine. mosquitoes, Smith-Alexander said it doesn’t always happen. Piercey announced a growing supply of vaccine doses Mosquitoes like warmer weather, anything over 80 degrees, headed for Tennessee. This week, she said, the state received she said. But some species of female mosquitoes can find small about 311,000 doses. Next week, thanks to a resuming supholes or crevices and hibernate up to six months, she said. ply of Johnson & Johnson vaccine, the state is expected to get To battle mosquitoes in Shelby County, Smith-Alexander about 350,000 doses, a 30 percent bump from week to week. said crews here find stagnant water — like in puddles and ditches — and use larvicide, granules of pesticide to kill mosA M OS Q U ITO “B O O M” quito babies. As harsh winter weather made a mess and broke water mains last month, optimists may have hoped that it, at least, might TH E “E LECTR I C H I G HWAY” cut back the mosquito population this summer. According to The Tennessee Valley Authority (TVA) is leading a new, multihealth officials here, that hope is misplaced. year plan to electrify roads from Chicago to Orlando, and from Kasia Smith-Alexander, administrator of the Environmental Richmond to West Texas. Health division of the Shelby County Health Department, said Six major utilities, including TVA, formed the Electric the winter snow and ice likely helped to grow the mosquito Highway Coalition earlier this month for a network of chargpopulation here. ing stations along roads in 16 states in the South and parts of “We are having a lot of water and moisture,” said Smith-Althe Midwest. The plan strives for a “seamless network” of DC, exander. “So, we are anticipating more breeding of mosquitoes fast-charging stations to travel greater distances without the because we’ll have more areas for them to lay their eggs, for worry of “range anxiety.” The chargers for the stations will be them to continue their life cycle. on major routes and capable of getting drivers back on the “We are anticipating there will be more of a boom for the road within 20 to 30 minutes. mosquito season this year because of all the melting of the Visit the News Blog at memphisflyer.com for fuller versions of snow. And days like today with more rain, that will give them these stories and more local news. ample opportunity to replicate.”


NCRM-MphsFlyer_April4thAd_print-qrtrSq4-1-21.pdf

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A virtual commemoration in honor of Dr. King’s life and legacy on the anniversary of his death on April 4, 1968. R E G I S T E R AT

april4th.org

m e m p h i s f l y e r. c o m

04.04.21 | 5PM Central

NEWS & OPINION

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The New York Times Syndication Sales Corporation 620 Eighth Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10018 For Information Call: 1-800-972-3550 For Release Tuesday, September 25, 2018

Edited by Will Shortz

Crossword ACROSS

25 Test, as 46-Across

1 Galoot

26 Sacha Baron Cohen program of the early 2000s

7 “State of the Union” channel 10 Datebook entry: Abbr.

31 Hoppy brew

14 Skulls 15 Obama health measure, in brief

32 Infamous bankruptcy declarer of 2001

16 Actress Garr

33 Vest openings 36 “Reelin’ in the Years” band

17 “M*A*S*H” transport, informally

39 Part of VCR

18 Augusta National’s infamous 12th hole, for one

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46 Material that is 25-Acrossed

ANSWER TO PREVIOUS PUZZLE

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Online subscriptions: Today’s puzzle and more than 7,000 past puzzles, nytimes.com/crosswords ($39.95 a year). Read about and comment on each puzzle: nytimes.com/wordplay.

Help Support Lifesaving Cures We are seeking blood and cell

April 1-7, 2021

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Riversides Thoughts divided on the reopening of Riverside Drive.

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No. 0821

CITY REPORTER B y To b y S e l l s

Leaders of two Downtown neighborhood groups disagree on the recent reopening of Riverside Drive, but both share concerns about safety on the street, especially in the wake of the shooting of a 13-yearold girl there recently. Riverside Drive reopened permanently to full-time car traffic on Friday, March 12th. The street between Union and Georgia was closed to automobile traffic by city of Memphis officials in March 2020. That move was a part of the Safer-At-Home order to limit capacity at city parks, including Tom Lee Park on the Memphis riverfront. At the time, the city’s engineering office said the closure was “for an indefinite amount of time.” The detour route had motorists using Crump Boulevard, Second Street, B.B. King Boulevard, and Jefferson Avenue. Riverside was reopened to traffic during weekdays in August. But the parking lot to Tom Lee Park remained closed in an effort to limit capacity at the park. The street has for years been closed for nearly two months each year for the Memphis in May International Festival. Two men shot at each other from cars on Riverside when the street opened nearly two weeks ago. Bullets from one of those guns struck a 13-year-old girl riding a scooter near the street. The reopening was pushed, in part, by the Downtown Neighborhood Association (DNA). Jerred Price, the group’s president, said in a statement that the closure was “problematic” for disabled Memphians who could not use Riverside to access the park. DNA said Front Street neighborhoods “grew very concerned” with the increased traffic. The DNA said it convened a committee of other Downtown neighborhood associations. Nearly all in the group,

“voiced their desire for the street to be reopened, the concerns of its closure, and how it adversely affects them and the people within their neighborhoods.” “We are happy this taxpayer-paid-for byway is restored once again,” Price said in a statement. “However, we are not blind to the safety challenges and issues we face with this street. As with many other streets in our city, cruising and law breakers make this street sometimes unsafe for pedestrians and cyclists.” A 2020 survey from the South Main Association (SMA) found that most (53 percent) supported a permanent closure of Riverside and most (62 percent) said they felt safer with the street closed.

MEMPHIS PARKS PARTNERSHIP/FACEBOOK

A skater on once-closed Riverside Drive Eric Bourgeois, president of the SMA, said no notice of the reopening was given to South Main residents, a move that was “disheartening to say the least.” “Since last fall, all Memphians had access to a vehicle-free Riverside Drive on weekends,” Bourgeois said in a statement. “This enabled people to enjoy bike rides, dog walks, strolls with friends, and immediate access to Tom Lee Park. Now, Downtowners have to, once again, hear the roaring of modified pipes as people with no regard for pedestrians zoom up and down the street until the wee hours of the night, especially on the weekends. As I’m sure you know, these activities resulted in a teenager being shot last week.”


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POLITICS By Jackson Baker

Davis Gone; Horton Stays Memphis federal building name-change symbolizes a shift in racial attitudes.

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With the committee who vacated the seat to make an unsucpassage last week of cessful race for the U.S. Senate in 2006. House Resolution The younger Ford was succeeded that year 390, by U.S. Repin what was now the 9th Congressional resentative Steve District by Cohen, who has been re-electCohen, Memphis’ ed seven times. Downtown federal In the meantime, the Memphis-based building, known district itself has, through redrawn boundsince 2007 as the aries and demographic shifts, undergone Clifford Davis-Odell Horton Federal significant change, metamorphosing from Building, is destined to be known hencethe white-dominated enclave of 1940 to forth simply as the Odell Horton Federal the majority-Black jurisdiction of today. Building. The change, approved unaniOdell Horton also figured large in the mously by Tennessee’s entire congressioevents of the Memphis community and nal delegation, reflects a seismic shift in the congressional district encompassracial sensibilities. ing it. A native of Bolivar and a Marine Clifford Davis, as Cohen noted, was during the Korean War, Horton acquired a member of the Ku Klux Klan when a B.A. degree from Morehouse College he entered politics in the 1920s, and, and a Bachelor of Laws from Howard to a large extent, owed his election as University School of Law. After engaging a Memphis city judge in 1923 to Klan in private law practice in Memphis from support. In 1927, he was elected to the 1957 to 1962, Horton served in a succesold five-member City Commission and sion of publicly important posts, in most served as Commissioner of them as the first African of Public Safety until 1940 American ever to hold when, having meanwhile them — from assistant become a favorite of U.S. attorney to director Memphis political boss of the division of Hospital E.H. Crump, he won the and Health Services for Democratic nomination the City of Memphis to and the general election as Criminal Court Judge to congressman from what president of LeMoynewas then Tennessee’s 10th Owen College to director congressional district. Like of Community Health most national legislators of Services of the Mid-South Judge Odell Horton his time from the South, Medical Center Council to he was a signatory to U.S. Bankruptcy Judge. the Southern Manifesto of 1956, which deIn 1980, Horton was appointed a U.S. fended the then-prevalent “separate-butDistrict Judge by President Jimmy Carter equal” system and opposed desegregation. and actively served until 1995, when he The most significant event of Davis’ took senior status, continuing in that tenure in Congress occurred in 1954, capacity until his death in 2006. when he and four other House members Judge Horton’s personal history directwere fired upon from the chamber’s visily intersected with that of the 9th contors’ gallery by members of a Puerto Rican gressional district when, as Chief Judge of independence group. Davis suffered only Tennessee’s Western District from 1987 a leg wound and quickly recovered. Davis to 1994, he presided over the first trial consistently won re-election until 1964, of then Congressman Ford Sr. for bank when he was upended in the Demofraud. The first trial of the congressman cratic primary by Memphis lawyer George resulted in a standoff between eight Black Grider, a liberal who would serve a single jurors voting for acquittal and four white term before being defeated in 1966 by jurors voting to convict. Horton declared Republican Dan Kuykendall. a mistrial and ordered that the jury for a Kuykendall was ousted in 1974 by second trial be imported from rural West Harold Ford Sr., the legendary AfricanTennessee. When the second trial was American power broker who established held in 1993, Representative Ford was a family dynasty in local politics. Ford was acquitted by a jury of 11 whites and one succeeded in 1996 by son Harold Ford Jr., African American.


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Wingin’ It! COVER STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY FLYER STAFF

8 Memphis wing experiences you need to have.

April 1-7, 2021

H

ow many places are there in Memphis where you can get chicken wings? I’m guessing 1,469. Close? I don’t know. I have no idea. No one does. You can buy chicken wings in trucks, in stores, in outlet malls, even in gas stations, for God’s sake. Wings are everywhere, and most of them are probably pretty good. But with so many options, you could probably use some guidance. As a public service to you, our faithful readers, (because we love you) some of us on the Flyer staff ventured out to try a sampling of various wings around town — from well-known to off-the-beaten-flight-path. Trust us, you can’t go wrong with any of these. — Bruce VanWyngarden Uncle Lou’s Fried Chicken 3633 Millbranch

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ears ago, Food Network star Guy Fieri came to town to sample local delights, including getting splattered in the kitchen at Uncle Lou’s Fried Chicken. That happy visit inspired plenty of business for the eatery and the tagline “Sweet Spicy Love.” Now almost 20 years old, the chicken joint run by Lou Martin continues to churn out remarkable 10 dishes, including stunningly good wings. Martin offers whole wings and buffalo

wings alongside the usual menu array of chicken, tenders, burgers, and a few other choices. I opted for the whole wings with mild sauce and, despite an initial assertive vinegar attack on the nose, the flavor was perfectly balanced. The wings are hefty and delectable, with mouthfuls of tender meat and loads of crisp skin to savor. The sauce lingers on the taste buds and remains mildmannered. If you manage to have any left over, heat them up the next day and they’ll still deliver the right amount of sass and joy. Wings and coffee make for a splendid breakfast, especially if you include some of his honey buttered biscuits that have the power to make a keto devotee fall off the wagon. — Jon W. Sparks D’Bo’s Wings ’n More 4970 Poplar; 4407 Elvis Presley

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s there such a thing as the Godfather of Memphis Wings? If so, the title would probably go to David and Leticia Boyd’s D’bo’s Wings ’n More. The Boyds started their wing business with a dream and a trailer in 1990. That’s 31 years of wingin’ it, if you’re counting. David says when they started they were looking for a “sauce that could dance.” They appear to have found it — and more. Now with two locations, D’bo’s serves a full menu that includes seafood, burgers,

CHRIS MCCOY

India Palace and other sandwiches, as well as some sassy margarita options. (“Panty Dropper,” anyone? Or maybe you’re a “Jungle Juice” person.) But it’s still all about the wings, which come with many sauce and size options. You can get party wings or whole wings from five to 100 pieces. Sauces include Suicidal, Teriyaki, Honey Hot, Honey Gold, Honey BBQ, and a few more. There are also several dry-rub options. I went with Honey BBQ whole wings, and … dang! The wings are cooked to order, not sitting around in a warmer, and you can tell. Mine came out hot, meaty, moist, and spicy (but not with a burn). So good. After 31 years, D’Bo’s sauce can still dance. — BV Riko’s Kickin’ Chicken 1329 Madison

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hat makes the perfect wing? Is it a crunchy and crispy exterior holding in tender meat and juices? A blend of sauce exquisitely baked


into the whole wing? Or is it actually extra sauce, dripping from each wing as it leaves the plate? There might not be a right answer, but Riko’s Kickin’ Chicken ticks every box. Mariko and Tiffany Wiley have been doing this for years at both their brickand-mortar and food truck locations, and they’ve honed their craft immeasurably. When my container of 15 extra-plump wings (talk about bang for your buck) slid across the counter, the sizzle and smell yanked me out of the restaurant and dragged me straight up to wing heaven. Each one of the extra-large wings was coated with heat, the hot sauce evenly spread across and infused into all the drums and flats. And if that wasn’t even enough, there’s still plenty of sauce left in the box to add another layer. It’s a spice that sticks with you, cranked up to mediumhigh, but not too much (that’s what the Hot X is for). But don’t take it from me; get yourself down to Riko’s and snag some grub. Maybe a little bit of hot sauce alongside another batch of the popular lemon pepper. Or perhaps seasoned. Or maybe even honey gold? Whichever flavor, it’s gonna be good. — Samuel X. Cicci India Palace 1720 Poplar

W

hat? An Indian restaurant? In the wings issue? In Memphis? Have we gone mad? Hear me out. As a response to the general popularity of wings in the Bluff City, putting your own spin on flats and drummies has become de rigueur for local restaurateurs. The wings at India Palace live on the appetizer menu. Instead of a variation on the standard, fried chicken parts tossed in a hot-sauceand-butter combo, these flappers are swimming in a tamarind-forward curry sauce and served on a bed of caramelized onions.

The Palace’s secret weapon is the tandoor. The traditional South Asian oven is made of clay, and usually coneor egg-shaped — although modern designs can be made with stainless steel exteriors. Powered by wood or charcoal, the interior of a tandoor can reach up to almost 500 degrees, cooking the chicken via convection heating and, as a cousin to the familiar Memphis smoker, exposing the fowl flesh to the smoke from the fire. The resulting meat is without the crispy, fried exterior, but much more tender and juicy than a conventional wing. It’s probably a lot better for you than fried wings, too. And let me put in a quick word for the onions. Nobody caramelizes like India Palace. These wings might not replace mainstream hots in your diet, but they’re great for a change-up. They might also serve as an introduction to Indian cuisine for some picky eaters looking for a familiar hook. Give them a shot. — Chris McCoy

ALEX GREENE

Habee’s Wings & Deli

JACKSON BAKER

Habee’s Wings & Deli 3670 Summer

The Wing Guru multiple locations

ry heat.” It’s something that Memphians don’t have to think about much — in their weather or their wings. And that’s precisely why that option caught my eye at Habee’s. They were doing a brisk business, and I had to think fast. Would it be one of the classic heavily glazed varieties that so many wing joints offer? Or something new? To a menu ranging from very mild to extremely hot — including honey hot, honey gold, and honey BBQ, as well as savory lemon pepper, garlic parmesan, or teriyaki — was added a note, tacked to the bottom. “New Flavor: Dry heat.” Remembering all the sauced-up wings I’d ever known and loved around town, the dry option called to me. And it did not disappoint. The meat was not dry, but tender and succulent, and the skin had just

he Wing Guru offers wing dishes in numerous combinations and with a wide variety of sauces, as well as lots of other menu options. Of an afternoon, I stopped by the storefront in Bartlett, along busy Highway 64, and ordered a plate of three whole wings with a generous side of fried okra and unsweet iced tea. If that sounds both urban and down-home, it surely is, in a sense that purists and wing aficionados can appreciate. The wings I had were not the dainty little sort you may be accustomed to as hors d’oeuvres at social events; they are fully sized, with a whole lot of succulent chicken meat, and three of them will definitely make a meal. All things considered, the price of just over $10 for this “small” combo was right. The choice of sauces‚ some 21 in all, is downright extravagant, and I had my wings with the restaurant’s Triple J sauce, a seriously spicy barbecue sauce with a rich honey component, developed in tandem with forward Jaren J. Jackson of the Memphis Grizzlies. (The owner, the eponymous “guru” of the establishment’s name, is Billy Richmond Jr., a wellremembered basketballer himself, at the University of Memphis.) — Jackson Baker

“D

T

Ching’s Hot Wings 1264 Getwell

M

emphis magic permeates Ching’s Hot Wings. The restaurant is a lot like the city itself. It’s modest, situated in a row of strip-mall shops along a decidedly unflashy stretch of Getwell. It’s authentic, its walls lined with handwritten notes (“These continued on page 13

COVER STORY m e m p h i s f l y e r. c o m

SAMUEL X. CICCI

Riko’s Kikin’ Chicken

enough crunch for contrast. Compared to typical wings, slathered in all manner of gooey sauces, this minimalist approach was a welcome change in texture and taste. Of course, nothing is technically dry once it’s dipped in ranch dressing, but even then, the crisper texture was a revelation and, with the dinner roll and carrot and celery sticks, a welcome contrast. This Asian-American eatery serves a diverse clientele and everyone seemed to be a regular. Many were ordering combos of wings and fried fish, but I stuck with the pure experience. Like dry-rub barbecue, this approach to wings was a delicious change of pace, and will surely be a welcome antidote to Memphis summers, where the humidity is like a sauce unto itself. Sometimes you just want that crunch. — Alex Greene

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CORDOVA I N T E R N A T I O N A L

FARMER’S MARKET

THE BEST PRICES April 1-7, 2021

in PRODUCE, MEAT and SEAFOOD in the Mid-South!

12

Open everyday from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. 1150 N. Germantown Parkway, Cordova, TN 38016 901.417.8407 •


TOBY SELLS

Ching’s Hot Wings

wangs are the bomb-diggity.”) and photos of Malcolm X and Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. hanging in the bathroom. It’s original, even down to two in-house soft drinks — Orange Mound Punch and G-Street Punch, which some just call “Blue Drink.” Ching’s is also unafraid to be itself and comfortable in its own skin; workers wear no uniforms and the whole thing has a gentle, down-homeness to it that makes you feel completely welcome. If you’re proud to call Memphis home, Ching’s will feel completely natural to you. And the wings? Ching’s is the king of wings. Fight me. Ching’s wings come two ways: party wings (where the drummy and the flat are separated) or whole wings. You can get those bad boys dressed up in mild hot, seasoned, lemon pepper, dry hot, honey gold, honey hot, honey extra hot, and suicide. Honey gold is supposed to be the Ching’s wing thing. But I needed a baseline and went whole-wing mild hot. The sauce is a classic orange Buffalo sauce that checked

MICHAEL DONAHUE

Belmont Grill

every single delicious salty/spicy box. The wings were perfectly cooked, juicy and easy to pull apart. The whole thing was perfectly sided with crinkle-cut fries, gently dashed with a bit of seasoning, and a big, red Orange Mound Punch. My trip to Ching’s felt like another lesson in my ongoing Memphis education. Eating at Ching’s made me a better Memphian. — Toby Sells Belmont Grill 4970 Poplar

I

f you find somebody on the planet who’s never tried hot wings, take them to Belmont Grill. They serve the classic, tangy, tasty, messy hot wings I think of when I think of hot wings. I recently devoured a plate of six Belmont wings, which come with coleslaw, ranch dressing, and a small loaf of crusty bread cut into eight pieces. I ate to the beat of Billy Idol singing “White Wedding” and ended up dipping the bread into the ranch dressing because the wings are so good by themselves. “The sauce is a blend of Louisiana hot sauce and melted butter,” says manager/ owner Jeff Anderson. “The butter helps the hot sauce stick to the wing. We don’t use a breaded wing. We use the real wing, so you can still taste the sauce and the meat from the chicken.” The Belmont didn’t serve hot wings when it first opened, Anderson says: “I found an old menu from when we first opened in 1984 and it wasn’t on there. I went to another menu, ’87 or ’88, when we actually put them on the menu. Back then a lot of places that did them did the pieces, and not the whole wing. We wanted to be a little bit different and we did the whole wing. We’ve kept them on there ever since. They’re our version of the hot wing.” — Michael Donahue

COVER STORY m e m p h i s f l y e r. c o m

continued from page 11

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GPACweb.com

SPRING INTO THE GROVE!

steppin’ out (& stayin’ in)

We Recommend: Culture, News + Reviews

In Remembrance THURSDAY, 4/8

FEATURING LIVE MUSIC BY

MICHELLE & JEREMY SHRADER

MICHELLE & JEREMY SHRADER

FAMILY NIGHT: FRIDAY, 4/9

PHOTO COURTESY BRIANNABORS.COM

By Julie Ray

Brian Nabors

On Easter Sunday, the National Civil Rights Museum will present a virtual commemoration in honor of Dr. Marin Luther King Jr.’s life and legacy on the 53rd anniversary of his death. This year’s event will feature a conversation with Rev. James Lawson, a key King ally in pursuit of nonviolent philosophy who trained a number of activists on civil disobedience. A performance of “Precious Lord,” Dr. King’s favorite gospel hymn, will be presented by the vocal ensemble Adajjyo. A keynote from Dr. Bernard Richardson, Dean of Rankin Chapel at Howard University, will explore King’s last days. The broadcast will culminate with a moment of silence at 6:01 p.m., the time King was shot on the balcony of the Lorraine Motel. Following the commemoration is the world premiere of “Caged,” a commissioned Chamber Orchestra piece by African-American composer Brian Nabors, performed by Iris Orchestra and Memphis Symphony Orchestra Diversity Fellows. The piece takes listeners on an energetic, rhapsodic journey through a range of emotions. “This work embodies our need to ‘let loose’ and release the restrictive tension that quarantining and the pandemic as a whole brought upon us,” Nabors says. “This piece pairs the barbarous with the deeply introspective and brings listeners to an inward reconciling of the grief many are feeling during this difficult time. Although we may feel ‘caged’ at the moment, the power of music is what continues to lift our spirits and will eventually pull us through to the other side.” Both groups of artist fellows will also present a live outdoor performance in Overton Square on April 11th at 3 p.m. The concert will showcase underrepresented composers and feature a live premiere of “Caged.” Nabors will attend and give an exclusive introduction to his work. REMEMBERING MLK, ONLINE FROM THE NATIONAL CIVIL RIGHTS MUSEUM, CIVILRIGHTSMUSEUM.ORG, SUNDAY, APR. 4, 5 P.M., FREE.

VARIOUS DAYS & TIMES April 1st - 7th MUSIC BY

April 1-7, 2021

JOSH THRELKELD FOOD TRUCKS & MUSIC AT 5 PM MOVIE AT 6 PM

WORD TRAVELS:

ANNUAL SIDEWALK POETRY CONTEST KICKOFF

SUNDAY, 4/11 FROM 2PM-4PM WITH A LIVE CONCERT BY

AMY LAVERE & WILL SEXTON

Word Travels is funded by the Word Travels Mitch Major Memorial Fund

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1801 EXETER ROAD GERMANTOWN, TN 38138 901.751.7500 • GPACweb.com

CASH for the CLC Online from Community Legal Center, facebook.com/clcmemphis, Thursday, Apr. 1, 7 p.m., free A benefit concert for the Community Legal Center featuring performances and in-depth discussions on justice work in Memphis with Rosanne Cash. Pride and Prejudice Germantown Community Theatre, 3037 Forest Hill-Irene, opens Friday, Apr. 2, 8 p.m., continues through Apr. 11, $70 flex pack/4 tickets A bold, surprising, boisterous, and timely performance for a new era that explores the absurdities and thrills of finding your perfect (or imperfect) match in life.

Rum Day Party Fat Charlie’s Speakeasy, 107 Harbor Town Square, Saturday, Apr. 3, 2 p.m., $60 Dress in your best island attire and enjoy rums from around the Caribbean paired with authentic island cuisine and music. Easter Sunrise Service Memorial Park Cemetery, 5668 Poplar, Sunday, Apr. 4, 7 a.m., free Meet at the Crystal Shrine Grotto for the annual Easter service at sunrise. Please wear a mask and social distance for the health and safety of all.

Yoga in the Grove Germantown Performing Arts Center, 1801 Exeter, Tuesday, Apr. 6, 6:15 p.m., and every Tuesday through Apr. 24, $6 Join Beth Ross for Vinyasa yoga, which combines breath and flowing movements while providing an opportunity to reconnect with yourself. Reservations required. Brian Regan Cannon Center for the Performing Arts, 255 N. Main, Wednesday, Apr. 7, 7:30 p.m., $37 With the perfect balance of sophisticated writing and physicality, funnyman Regan entertains fans who span generations.


us stories about Stax and country music and how she loves it. I was like, ‘We’ve got to get you to read this African proverb, because your speaking voice is so incredible.’ And her singing voice is perfect. Valerie June’s new album offers a healthy dose of Memphis soul. You can’t miss it. [Sings woooo-hoooo] All of that is her. It’s so good! So we producer and arranger] Mr. Lester have layers and layers of her beautiful This month saw the release of a new album by Valerie Snell. I lived in Memphis 10 years soprano. June, The Moon and Stars: Prescriptions for Dreamers and didn’t even know who he was I needed her, because the record is (Fantasy Records), which may be the singer/songwriter’s [laughs]. I felt so dumb when Jack a bunch of songs to inspire dreamers. most fully realized work yet. Rolling Stone called it a “stunSplash, the co-producer, said to me, I think the world needs more dreamning song cycle of redemption and reclamation.” Essence ‘We’ve got to get Mr. Lester to do the ers now, and as we look around at all pronounced it “a magical, country-soul offering.” string arrangements on this record.’ the things that need to change, it’s like Ironically, for someone who has lived in Brooklyn And I was like, ‘Who’s that?’ And he a dream journey. You always have to for nearly a decade, this may also be the most Memphissaid, ‘You don’t know who he is, but have what I call a fairy godmother, that influenced record of her career. The city where she first you lived in Memphis for a decade?’ wise voice. And Carla was the fairy honed her craft has always been an aesthetic touchstone, I was like, ‘Nope!’ But I went over to godmother of this record. She might but, partly thanks to co-producer Jack Splash (Kendrick PHOTO: RENATA RAKSHA his house and met him and Miss Pat, be the Queen of Memphis Soul, but for Lamar, Alicia Keys), June found herself discovering new Valerie June and we worked on the songs, and it me, she’s my fairy godmother. She’s the things about the city’s heritage. After mentioning her imwas so fun. From there we went over wise voice. minent plans to return to Humboldt, Tennessee, to help to Sam Phillips Recording. It was my first time being in Will you be doing a live-stream show to mark the release of her mother with the garden, the artist reflected on what there, working on my own stuff. And Jack made all of that this record? she was still learning about the city where it all got started. possible. Not that I know of. I do have a book coming out. It’s called Memphis Flyer: This album takes a dramatic leap into The authentic old school soul of “Call Me a Fool” really gets Maps for the Modern World [Andrews McMeel], and it’s orchestration. What prompted your new interest in richer, a lift from Carla Thomas’ appearance on background vocals. going to be in stores worldwide on April 6th. It’s a lot of more lush arrangements? How did that come about? poems and insights into mindfulness and sweetness in the Valerie June: I’ve worked and built up trust with my whole Boo Mitchell hooked me up with Vaneese Thomas, Carla’s world. More hopeful things. More presecriptions. team, so they were like ‘Yeah, we’ll give you some backing.’ sister, and I asked Carla if she’d sing on my song. And she In the meantime, good luck getting down to Humboldt to do But that’s taken years, to prove myself, make the consaid ‘Sure! I’ll meet you there at Royal Studios.’ Boo engisome gardening. nections, meet the musicians. Like meeting [former Stax neered the session for us. And as she talked to us, telling Yeah, I can’t wait! I’m excited. MUSIC By Alex Greene

Prescriptions for Dreamers

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CALENDAR of EVENTS:

April 1 - 7

T H EAT E R

Germantown Community Theatre

Pride and Prejudice, bold, surprising, boisterous, and timely for a new era, explores the absurdities and thrills of finding your perfect (or imperfect) match in life. $70 flex pack/4 tickets. April 2-11. 3037 FOREST HILL-IRENE (453-7447).

Hattiloo Theatre

The Women of Color Monologues, featuring monologues written and performed by Ruby Bright, Judy Maina, Beverly Sakauye, Maritza Davila, Mahal Burr, and Yancy Villa-Calvo. hattiloo.org. Ongoing. The Night Watcher, the story of a woman who chooses not to have children, only to be pulled into the real-life struggles of kids of all ages, races, and backgrounds. $150 for four seats. Fri., 7:30 p.m., and Sat., Sun., 2 p.m. Through April 4. 37 S. COOPER (502-3486).

OT H E R AR T HAP P E N I N G S

Memphis Flyer Coloring Book

Order your book today benefiting local artists and journalism. $35. Ongoing. MEMPHISMAGAZINESTORE.COM.

Metal Museum Online

Peruse the art and craft of fine metalwork digitally. Featuring past gallery talks from previous exhibitions, interviews with artists, and demonstrations including “Beauty in the Boundary,” the museum’s exhibition of gates and railings. Free. Ongoing. METAL MUSEUM, 374 METAL MUSEUM DR. (774-6380).

Send the date, time, place, cost, info, phone number, a brief description, and photos — two weeks in advance — to calendar@memphisflyer.com or P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101. DUE TO SPACE LIMITATIONS, ONGOING WEEKLY EVENTS WILL APPEAR IN THE FLYER’S ONLINE CALENDAR ONLY.

The Peace Project

Mid-South Artist Gallery

Hear the peace offerings made up of artists’ voices, instruments, ambient noises, and reverberations in a healing space featuring work by Hank Willis Thomas. Ongoing, 6 a.m.-6 p.m.

Mid-South Artist Gallery Artists, exhibition of work by Becky McRae, Sandra Horton, Jean Wu, Jon Woodhams, Marina Wirtz, Michelle Lemaster, Pat Turner, and others. Ongoing. “4Sights,” exhibition of American and European artists, each on permanent exhibit at Christian Brothers Collection, the Chrysler Museum, and the Louvre, plus award-winning artists presenting their debut creations of 2021. April 1-30.

MEMPHIS PARK (FOURTH BLUFF), FRONT AND MADISON, MEMPHISRIVERPARKS.ORG.

Pinch District Art on the Patio Artists’ Market First Sunday of every month, 2 p.m.

WESTY’S, 346 N. MAIN (543-3278).

2945 SHELBY (409-8705).

ONGOI NG ART

Tops Gallery

“An Angle to the Place I Live In,” exhibition of sculptural paintings by Ezra Tessler that contend with both the physical and ontological limits of the medium. Through April 10.

Binder Projects

“Bright Lites,” exhibition of work under $1K by Jim Buchman, Roger Allan Cleaves, Nancy Cheairs, Phil Donohue, Taylor Loftin, Whitney Lorenze, and others. binderprojects.com. Through April 30.

400 S. FRONT.

Tops Gallery: Madison Avenue Park

74 FLICKER (634-1698).

Crosstown Concourse

“Nightlife,” exhibition of an outdoor light installation by Lake Roberson Newton. (604-3420), Ongoing. 1350 CONCOURSE.

David Lusk Gallery

“Wonderstruck,” exhibition of new paintings by Beth Edwards. Through May 1.

“An Angle to the Place I Live In,” exhibition of sculptural paintings by Ezra Tessler. Through April 10.

Glide Ride at the South Memphis Farmers Market, Saturdays at 10:30 a.m.

97 TILLMAN (767-3800).

The Dixon Gallery & Gardens

“Learning to be Astonished,” exhibition of impressionistic landscapes created during the COVID-19 pandemic by Jimpsie Ayres. Through April 4. “America’s Impressionism: Echoes of a Revolution,” exhibition of work by late nineteenth century to World War II American impressionism painters. Through May 9.

“Beauty in Isolation: Perspectives from a Father and Son,” exhibition of watercolors and pen and ink work by father and son artists David and Jared Rawlinson. Through April 30. 750 CHERRY (766-9900).

Jay Etkin Gallery

Permanent Collection: “The Flow Museum of Art & Culture,” ongoing. 942 COOPER (550-0064).

Bartlett Member Showcase, exhibition featuring work in oils, acrylics, pours, alcohol ink, photography, digital, and more by Association members. April 3-30. 750 CHERRY (636-4100).

Memphis Brooks Museum of Art

“Power and Absence: Women in Europe,” exhibition explores the representation of women in Europe from around 1500 to 1680, known as the Renaissance and Early Baroque period. brooksmuseum.org. Ongoing. “Arts of Global Africa,” exhibition of historic and contemporary works in a range of different media presenting an

expansive vision of Africa’s artistry. Through June 21. 1934 POPLAR (544-6209).

Metal Museum

“Tributaries: Ben Dory,” exhibition of works paying homage to traditional granulation, an ancient and intricate technique of fusing primarily gold spheres. Through April 3. “Measured Making: The 150mm Challenge,” exhibition of a curated selection of 150 metal objects, chosen from over 400 pieces created by amateur and professional blacksmiths from around the world. Through July 3. 374 METAL MUSEUM DR. (774-6380).

C O M E DY

Cannon Center for the Performing Arts Brian Regan, Wed., April 7, thecannoncenter.com. $37. 7:30 p.m.

MEMPHIS COOK CONVENTION CENTER, 255 N. MAIN (576-1200).

Chuckles Comedy Club

Renny, $22-$45. Thurs., April 1, 7:30 p.m. DC Young Fly, $60. Fri.-Sat., Apr. 2-3, 6:45 p.m. and 8:45 p.m. 1700 DEXTER.

The Comedy Junt

Queat Harris: Unum Opus Capra, $20. Sun., April 4, 7-10 p.m. 4330 AMERICAN WAY (249-4052).

April 1-7, 2021

4339 PARK (761-5250).

Fratelli’s

151 MADISON (340-0134).

Memphis Botanic Garden

LICHTERMAN WWW.MEMPHISMUSEUMS.ORG

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Starts April 16th at Lichterman Nature Center


CALENDAR: APRIL 1 - 7

2119 MADISON (207-5097).

L E CT U R E / S P EAK E R

Reader Meet Writer: Denny Bryce

Author discusses Wild Women and the Blues: A Fascinating and Innovative Novel of Historical Fiction. Free with registration. Thurs., April 1, 6 p.m. NOVEL, 387 PERKINS EXT. (922-5526), NOVELMEMPHIS.COM.

TO U R S

Bicycle Tour of Elmwood Cemetery

A fun-filled history tour taken from your bicycle with guide Cookie Swain. ELMWOOD CEMETERY, 824 S. DUDLEY (774-3212).

Walking Tour and Ghost Hunt

Part walking tour and part ghost hunt. Tour the South Main district and investigate a well-known site which was the scene of the brutal murder of patrolman Edward Broadfoot in 1918. 13+. $25. Saturdays, 7:30 p.m. THE BROOM CLOSET, 546 S. MAIN (497-9486), HISTORICALHAUNTSMEMPHIS.COM.

E X POS/ SALES

WE Consign

Featuring a large selection of furniture, rugs, crystal, sterling silver, antiques, and other treasures, benefiting the Woman’s Exchange of Memphis. Mondays-Fridays, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Through April 16. WOMAN’S EXCHANGE ART GALLERY, 88 RACINE (327-5681).

S P O RTS / F IT N ES S

Glide Rides

Attendees should be able to ride for about an hour at an easy pace. All children must be accompanied by an adult. Arrive early to borrow a bike, and air up the tires if needed. Free. Saturdays, 10:30 a.m. Through April 24. SOUTH MEMPHIS FARMERS MARKET, CORNER OF MISSISSIPPI BOULEVARD AND S. PARKWAY EAST, THEWORKSCDC.ORG.

Memphis Grizzlies vs. Minnesota Timberwolves Fri., April 2, 7 p.m.

FEDEXFORUM, 191 BEALE.

M E ETI N G S

Cutbank Bluff Walk

Community members are urged to attend the walk from South City to the riverfront and identify opportunities to improve the corridor before volunteer events in May help to clean up and add visual

interest along the corridor. Sat., April 3.

Winners announced April 6. $10-$25. Through April 5.

TOMLEEPARK.ORG.

THEATRE MEMPHIS, 630 PERKINS EXT. (682-8323), THEATREMEMPHIS.ORG.

Virtual-T

Weekly Zoom gathering for anyone 18+ who identifies as a member of the trans or GNC community. For login information, email ahauptman@ outmemphis.org. Tuesdays, 6 p.m. OUTMEMPHIS.ORG.

S P EC I A L EVE N TS

The Big Fake {Micro} Wedding

A bridal show alternative complete with a meaningful vow renewal ceremony, light bites, and a dance party reception. Free-$32. Tues., April 6, 7 p.m. BALINESE BALLROOM, 330 N. MAIN (522-1144), THEBIGFAKEWEDDING.COM.

CASH for the CLC

A benefit concert for the Community Legal Center featuring performances and in-depth discussion on justice work in Memphis with Rosanne Cash. Thurs., April 1, 7 p.m. CLCMEMPHIS.ORG..

Registration open for 2021-2022 Step Ahead Scholarship

Recognizing and providing financial support for promising young women from the greater Memphis community who are committed to public service in the areas of academic success and effective, responsible life planning. Through April 2. ASTEPAHEADFOUNDATION.ORG.

Remembering MLK

A virtual commemoration on the 53rd anniversary of King’s death, featuring Rev. James Lawson, gospel performance, keynote from Dr. Bernard Richardson, moment of silence at 6:01 p.m., and an orchestra piece by Brian Nabors performed by Iris Orchestra and MSO Diversity Fellows. Free. Sun., April 4, 5 p.m. NATIONAL CIVIL RIGHTS MUSEUM, 450 MULBERRY (521-9699), CIVILRIGHTSMUSEUM.ORG.

H O LI DAY EVE N TS

Easter Picnic

Join the fun in Washington Park, 1072 N. Second, featuring free food, games, egg hunt, live DJ, bounce house, and more. Free. Sun., April 4, 2 p.m.

Easter Sunrise Service

Meet at the Crystal Shrine Grotto for the annual service. Free. Sun., April 4, 7 a.m. MEMORIAL PARK FUNERAL HOME & CEMETERY, 5668 POPLAR (302-9980).

Golden Egg Scramble

Enter to win $500 in a random drawing or second prize, two tickets to the Theatre Memphis 100th Birthday Celebration.

FOOD & DR I N K E V E N TS

Cook Well, Be Well

Participants will become comfortable in the kitchen as they learn to build meals and flavors, stock a healthy pantry, and cook on a budget. For ages 16 and up. In-person on Tuesday and virtual on Wednesday. Wed., 5:30-7:30 p.m., and Tues., 10 a.m.-noon. CHURCH HEALTH CROSSTOWN, 1350 CONCOURSE, CHURCHHEALTH.ORG.

Cooper-Young Community Farmers Market Saturdays, 9 a.m.-1 p.m.

FIRST CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH, 1000 S. COOPER (278-6786).

Memphis Dawah Association: Mobile Food Pantry

A weekly mobile food pantry organized by Memphis Dawah Association and Mid-South Food Bank. Volunteer opportunities available. Saturdays, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. MEMPHIS DAWAH ASSOCIATION, 837 CRAFT (601-672-0259).

Seniors OUT For Coffee Community social group for LBTQ community members 55+ years of age, via Zoom. Free. First Sunday of every month, 1 p.m.

OUTMEMPHIS: THE LGBTQ CENTER OF THE MID-SOUTH, 892 S. COOPER (278-6422), OUTMEMPHIS.ORG.

FI LM

Indie Memphis Movie Club

Weekly virtual screening opportunities (for brand-new films and classics), plus online Q&As on Tuesday evenings between programmers and special guests. Visit website for more information and schedule. Ongoing.

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Oxford Virtual Film Festival

A lineup of 158 films in an online/in-person hybrid. Screenings in person March 24-28 at special outdoor theaters. In April, films available virtually. $40-$175. Through April 30. DOWNTOWN OXFORD, TOWN SQUARE, OXFORDFILMFEST.COM.

Sweded Film Festival

Classic movies, remade by amateurs who replace A-list stars and CGI with whatever is laying around their houses and a ton of creativity. It’s odd, unexpected, and a whole lot of fun. Benefits local film festivals. $4. Ongoing. ROWHOUSE.ONLINE.

HollywoodCasinoTunica.com Resort fee & taxes not included. Offer subject to availability. Blackout dates apply, including holidays and other dates. Call 1-800-871-0711 to reserve. Must make reservations by June 30, 2021. Valid through December 29, 2021. Offer not valid for self-exclusion program enrollees in jurisdictions which Penn National Gaming, Inc. operates or who have been otherwise excluded from the participating property. Must be 21 or older. Gambling Problem? Call 1-888-777-9696. ©2021 Penn National Gaming, Inc. All rights reserved.

m e m p h i s f l y e r. c o m

Chad Prather, $25. Tues., April 6, 6 & 8:30 p.m.

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Lafayette’s Music Room

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FOOD By Michael Donahue Presented by

Tater Tots Chefs demonstrate how to do the mashed potato.

A

April 1-7, 2021

A DRIVE-THRU EVENT BENEFITING

APRIL 17, 2021

APRIL 18, 2021

12:00 PM – 5:00 PM

12:00 PM – 5:00 PM

Minglewood Hall

Cordova Malco

1555 Madison Avenue Memphis, TN 38104

1080 N Germantown Pkwy Cordova, TN 38018

A Very Tasteful Food Blog Dishing it out at .com.

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fter hearing about Memphis being recognized as the mashed potato capital of America by Idahoan Foods, I wondered how Memphis chefs used mashed potatoes at their restaurants. So, I asked around. Kelly English, owner of Iris, The Second Line, and Fino’s from the Hill, says, “I love crawfish boil mashed potatoes — with everything you would get in a crawfish boil. Just fold some crawfish tails, crispy sautéed andouille, corn kernels, and roasted garlic into your potatoes and season with your favorite Creole seasoning. Saute a piece of fish from the Gulf and pour brown butter and lemon juice over the whole dish.” Derk Meitzler, chef/owner of The Vault, Paramount, Backlot Sandwich Shop, and Earnestine & Hazel’s, says, “I’ve used leftover mashed potatoes to make loaded tater tots. Put the potatoes, egg, flour, shredded cheddar cheese, bacon, and chives into a bowl and mix together. Form into the shape of a tater tot and roll in panko bread crumbs. Then fry them golden brown.” Elwood’s Shack owner Tim Bednarski shared his warm German potato salad recipe. Boil two pounds of new potatoes cut into fourths in salted water until tender. Render four pieces of bacon. Drain the potatoes while warm. Combine one cup sliced green onions, one-half cup diced celery, one-half cup mayonnaise, one-half cup sour cream, two tablespoons Dijon mustard, one-fourth cup apple cider vinegar, one-half cup chopped parsley, one-fourth cup pimentos, salt and pepper to taste, and “hot sauce for a kick.” Give it “a light mash.” Veteran Memphis chef Mac Edwards, hospitality director for The Paramount, makes Very Anglo Latkes: “To leftover mashed potatoes, add grated onion, eggs, a little flour, and baking soda. Press into a patty, pan fry in one-fourth inch of oil until crispy and brown. Drain on a paper towel and sprinkle with salt while hot. I make a horseradish applesauce to go with it.” Karen Carrier, owner of The Beauty Shop Restaurant, Mollie Fontaine Lounge, and Another Roadside Attraction, prepares Green Herb Roasted Garlic Creamed Potatoes, made with Yukon golds and a parsley, mint, and tarragon puree, unsalted butter, roasted garlic, creme fraiche, and grana padano, with salt and pepper to taste. Saito 2 chef Jimmy “Sushi Jimi” Sinh makes a sushi roll with mashed potatoes. “Inside would be a deep-fried panko

chicken,” he says. The roll is “topped with mashed potatoes and thinly sliced avocado.” Ben Smith, chef/owner of Tsunami, says, “Mashed potatoes don’t play a major role in my restaurant, even though it’s one of the most requested side items. They normally only accompany our grilled filet of beef, but some customers get creative. We frequently have people order our pork and lemongrass meatballs on top of mashed potatoes. “I’ve also known people to order mashed potatoes with a side of soy beurre blanc, which is kind of overkill because our mashed potatoes are already loaded with butter and cream.” Acre Restaurant executive chef Andrew Adams (who shared several dishes, find more online) says, “When I worked in a

PHOTO BY MICHAEL DONAHUE

Acre Restaurant executive chef Andrew Adams restaurant in New Jersey, I would make mashed potato sandwiches at the end of the night when leftovers were mashed potatoes and sourdough bread. I’ve been told that I break some sort of healthy eating rule by eating carbs on carbs. Lately, I’ve been doing the same with leftover cornbread.” Peggy Brown, chef/owner of Peggy’s Healthy Home Cooking, cooks homestyle mashed potatoes: “We use Irish potatoes. Peel, wash, slice them up, put them in a pot with chicken broth, and boil until they get completely done. I also put salt in my pot while they’re cooking. Mash them with a potato masher and put in real butter and black pepper. Sometimes we put a little cream in them.” For additional mashed potato ideas, go to memphisflyer.com.


S P I R ITS By Richard Murff

THE

C

utting quickly to the chase, Blue Note Straight Bourbon Whiskey Single Barrel Reserve is a great whiskey. It hits the right note, if you will. In fact, it hits a lot of them. Produced here in Memphis, I found this particular bottle — from a barrel hand-selected by the team at Buster’s — when one of said team, Kathrine Fultz, stuck it in my hand. I have a keen grasp of the obvious, you see.

RICHARD MURFF

These hand-picked barrels are more than just a gimmick. There is a lot of blending that goes into commercial production, which isn’t a bad thing. In fact, it’s how producers ensure a uniform product. No one expects their go-to bottle of bourbon to vary from batch to batch, like wine. Whiskey bottled from a single barrel, on the other hand, is something unique. Assuming that the people doing the picking know what they are doing, it’s a great way to enjoy a oneof-a-kind bottle. What Kathrine handed me was bottle #34 from the anointed barrel. I suppose that knowing exactly which bottle I was holding was a bit of a gimmick, but it’s a pretty cool one. So, I opened up bottle #34 at nine years and, taking myself entirely too seriously, poured out a dram in a snifter. The color was beautiful. When cramming your nose into a tasting glass, remember to part your lips and breathe. That way you get

to the whiskey and don’t just get a honker overwhelmed by ethyl alcohol. It’s deep caramel, with some oak spice to let you know it’s there. Then add a few drops of that pure, no-longer-needs-to-be-boiled, Memphis water. On the palate, there is also some citrus, but at 122.4 proof, there is some heat to it. At that proof there would have to be, but the feel isn’t raw. The truth is that those tasting glasses are small and I don’t suggest whipping one out in public unless you just want to look like an insufferable ass. I think that it’s important to try a whiskey out in what we might call “real world conditions,” so I poured what we might call a “real drink” into a rocks glass, along with a cube or two of ice — like an actual human. After giving it a swirl or two, I let it sit for a bit. If you follow booze twitter or Instagram while pretending to be at work, you get a lot of whiskey-purists barking about not putting water in whiskey. What bugs me about this isn’t that it’s bad advice, but that someone with the handle “Supreme_Bourbon_Buddha,” or some such nonsense, is broadcasting such an obvious rookie mistake. I suppose we all need a code to live by, but the laws of both physiology and chemistry still stand: The tongue and nasopharynx can only process so much ethyl alcohol. At 122.4 proof, you are only getting about half of what you bought. A little water will do both you and your whiskey a tremendous service. After a swirl, the Blue Note really opens up and hits some different notes. That heat mellowed out into a deeper caramel with hints of orange, and with that oak spice still moving along the palate. The body — or mouthfeel — is richer than you’d expect for proof in this neighborhood, and it all thankfully lingers in a good, long finish. The downside to a selected single barrel is that there is only one of them, and so by their very nature, supplies are limited. Which is as good a reason as any to get to know your local liquor store. You just never know what they are going to stick in your hand.

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FILM By Chris McCoy

Zack Snyder’s Justice League Four hours and two minutes closer to death.

I

Momoa), and Cyborg (Ray Fisher) grossed only enough money to run the entire United States government from 1790-1836, DC Comics fans on Reddit started a campaign to “release the Snyder Cut!” • Historical government budget numbers are readily available online, proving that the internet is a glorious wonder for which we should all be thankful. • The villain of the original Justice League is Steppenwolf (Ciaran Hinds), an utterly forgettable soldier in the army of the planet Apokolips. His master Darkseid (Ray Porter) is a new addition in the Snyder Cut. His inclusion helps the plot make a little more sense. • Darkseid, the biggest big bad in the DC universe, bears a striking resemblance to Thanos, the biggest big bad in the Marvel Cinematic Universe. • Maybe it’s the other way around. • After a pressure campaign lasting years, the online Snyder Cut agitators got their way. Warner Bros. greenlit a restoration project, which eventually would consume an estimated $70 million, proving once and for all that the internet was a mistake. • The running time for Zack Snyder’s Justice League is four hours and two minutes. Other films that break the four-hour mark include Shoah, the Holocaust documentary, which runs nine hours, 26 minutes;

April 1-7, 2021

n 2017, my review of the original Justice League was “a series of bullet points presented without any overall organizing principle.” This review of Zack Snyder’s Justice League, hereafter known as the Snyder Cut, is presented as a much longer but slightly more coherent series of bullet points. • Close your eyes. Envision Superman. What color is his costume? Is it blue, with a red cape and yellow trim? Wrong. It’s black, with black highlights. The S? It’s gray. • In 2017, when the original Justice League was in post-production, director Zack Snyder had just turned in a cut of the film that he called “90 percent done” when his daughter Autumn died. Snyder took a leave of absence, and Avengers director Joss Whedon stepped in to finish the film. Following the orders of Warner Bros. execs who called the Snyder Cut “unwatchable,” Whedon rewrote the script to bring it in under two hours. The resulting film grossed $657 million, and is considered a box office bomb. • Last week, a Baltimore businessman offered to buy Tribune Publishing, the nation’s third-largest newspaper chain, for $650 million. • Disappointed that the film starring Batman (Ben Affleck), Superman (Henry Cavill), The Flash (Ezra Miller), Wonder Woman (Gal Gadot), Aquaman (Jason

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Whatever happened to the Man of Tomorrow? Zack Snyder eschews Silver Age ideals and doubles down on darkness and slow motion scenes. OJ: Made in America, the seven-hour ESPN documentary series, which had a limited theatrical run; Carlos, the 2010 biopic of terrorist Carlos the Jackal, which clocked in at five hours, 39 minutes; and Sleep, which is just footage of Andy Warhol’s boyfriend sleeping for five hours, 21 minutes. • You think I won’t keep wasting your time with random facts I found on the internet? Well, I sat through the Snyder Cut, so buckle up, motherfuckers! • The record for the longest film ever made is held by Erika Magnusson and Daniel Andersson’s Logistics, which is 37 days long. • What sets Justice League apart from those other extremely long films is that we learn Bruce Wayne was traumatized by witnessing the death of his parents, which later caused him to dress like a bat and fight crime. These stunning facts have never been revealed in a film before, with the exception of every Batman film ever. • The revelation about Batman’s parents comes via

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EMPLOYMENT League and the Snyder Cut, is larger than the 2020 budget of the National Endowment for the Arts and the National Endowment for the Humanities, combined. • Here is a partial list of scenes from this four-hour movie that are shot in slow motion: 1. A close-up of Bruce Wayne shaving. 2. Aquaman drinking whiskey on a pier. 3. The Flash looking at a hot dog. • You can read the full McCoy Cut of the Snyder Cut review at memphisflyer.com. Zack Snyder’s Justice League is streaming on HBO Max.

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m e m p h i s f l y e r. c o m

The Joker (Jared Leto) during a dream sequence epilogue which has nothing to do with Steppenwolf, Darkseid, or anything, really. I have no idea why it’s there, except to give Jared Leto cocaine money. • GOAT Batman movie? Mask of the Phantasm. • I don’t know if Jared Leto does cocaine. • In the time it takes to watch the Snyder Cut once, you could watch Mask of the Phantasm 3.16 times. • $370 million, the total amount of money spent on the original Justice

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THE LAST WORD By Julie Ray

Rum Diary

THE LAST WORD

If there is one thing I have really missed during the lockdown due to the pandemic, it’s traveling. Especially with my favorite friend who, like me, prefers to avoid the tourist traps and venture into unknown territories. Allow me to reminisce a bit … There was the time we went to the Bahamas for my 30th birthday. We rented a car to get to the other side of the island and visit the Bacardi Rum distillery. But at every turn, something caught our eye and we branched off into a side trip. One time it was a thrift store; another time, a whole neighborhood that was half-built. It looked like all the workers walked off the job and never came back. We made up scenarios about the demise — from worker revolt to alien abduction. Nevertheless, it seemed odd to us that one tourist attraction we’d set out to visit was so hard to find. It wasn’t even on the map. We wound through neighborhoods and business districts, getting lost and not minding one bit. When we finally got to the distillery, limos with darkened windows were entering the security gate and there was a flurry of excitement. We looked at each other and drove up to the gate. The security guard seemed surprised to ILSUR NIGMATZYANOV | DREAMSTIME.COM see us and told us that the distillery was closed for a private party. And that was that. We had left the resort pool and endless Shipwreck drinks (coconut rum and ice cream) back at the resort for this? Nothing to do but go back and suffer through another Shipwreck or five. We returned to the resort, called the car company to pick up our rented wheels, and prepared ourselves for another day in paradise by the pool. The car rental guy came to pick up the car and enthusiastically asked if we were having a good time on the island. We shared our Bacardi experience with him and how disappointed we were. He shuffled his feet and looked down trying to find the words. “The people who live here don’t really like that place,” he said almost apologetically. We wanted to know the whole story but our car rental contract had expired. Then he asked if we’d like for him to give us a tour. “Don’t you have to get the car back?” we asked. “We’re on island time,” he said, laughing as he hopped in our car and waved us in, introducing himself as Jahni. We told Jahni that we wanted an authentic tour of the island and the Bacardi story. Not touristy stuff. We wanted the real deal. Our first stop was Jahni’s neighborhood. He drove us by his home, pointing out a bright blue house. He told us that his family had running water but most of the houses didn’t. “Where do they get their water?” we asked. Jahni took us to the well. To us, it was beautiful. Lush foliage surrounded the area, and it smelled fresh, like summer rain. He explained that younger Bahamians would fetch water for the elder ones. The trek was too hard for them because the well wasn’t very close to the houses. The next stop was a political rally. Jahni stopped and motioned to us, “Come. Come. These are my friends.” People were waving signs and someone was speaking into a microphone. We were welcomed enthusiastically, not fully understanding that this type of event was rare. Jahni explained that tourism supplied jobs, but it also discouraged rallies because they might disrupt tourism. It began to dawn on me that Bahamians might not like tourists very much. Jahni assured us that they loved the tourists because tourists meant jobs. But the crowd at the rally wanted more of the tourism dollars to preserve the culture and improve living conditions. That brought us back to the Bacardi Rum distillery. Jahni said the disdain for the distillery by Bahamians had to do with Cuba. I don’t think I’ll ever understand the real problem. I recently tried to research the period between 1996 and 2021. There is a gaping hole from 1993 to 2013 — at least from my search. During this time, acquisitions were made and Bacardi Limited was formed. I did find a mention of a Washington lobbyist in the late ’90s proposing a bill to deny trademark protection to products of Cuban businesses expropriated after the Cuban revolution. In 2009, Bacardi operations closed in Nassau, Bahamas. The Bacardi Buena Vista estate became John Watling’s distillery in 2013, founded by sixth-generation members of the Bacardi family and named after a 17th-century pirate. I can’t help but wonder if the name choice is a cruel joke, as tourists are directed to certain areas and activities away from areas where Bahamian culture and resources are being plundered. It wouldn’t be the first time. Julie Ray is the Flyer calendar editor.

m e m p h i s f l y e r. c o m

A ramble down memory lane in the Bahamas.

23


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