Malta YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE MALTESE ISLANDS
INTERNATIONAL VISITORS’ GUIDE 2019/2020
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MaltaInsider2019/2020
2019/2020 CONTENTS
198
162 VIEWINGMALTA.COM
42 SARAH MICALLEF
24
Calendar of events
30
10 top things to do in Malta and Gozo
34
Discovering the best of Malta’s heritage sites
38
St John’s Co-Cathedral: A jewel in the capital’s crown
42
Local foodies dish out the goods on Malta’s culinary scene
46
8 reasons you should buy a holiday home in Malta
53 80 110 132 144 162 179 182 198
A guide to investing in Malta Valletta St Julian’s The 3 Cities & around Sliema & around Mdina, Rabat & around A peek into the art of Maltese wine-making Mellieha, Bugibba & around Gozo & Comino
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MaltaInsider2019/2020
Welcome to the
Maltese islands
Publisher
Content House Group 3, Mallia Building, Triq in-Negozju, Zone 3, Central Business District Birkirkara CBD 3010, Malta Tel: +356 2132 0713 info@contenthouse.com.mt www.contenthouse.com.mt Malta Insider International Visitors’ Guide 2019/2020 is published and owned by Content House Group Ltd.
Editor Martina Said Contributors Rebecca Anastasi, Jo Caruana, Isabel Depasquale, Helena Grech, Sarah Micallef, Martina Said Research Sarah Bouhlel Maps James Debono Creative Director & Design Nicholas Cutajar Cover Photography Kurt Arrigo Deputy Head of Sales Jessica Spiteri Catania Senior Brand Sales Executive Jean Mark Meli Director of Operations & Sales Lindsey Napier Digital Media & Marketing Manager Raisa Mazzola Operations & Client Relationship Manager Elena Dimech
I
f you’re visiting the sun-drenched Maltese islands at any point throughout the year, you’ll find there’s lots to discover no matter the season. From plenty of beautiful beaches to prehistoric sites, and majestic buildings dating back hundreds of years to countless cultural highlights, you’ll likely have a hard time narrowing down your choice for just one trip! But, that aside, if you’ve just touched down – or are about to board that flight to this tiny group of islands in the Med, you couldn’t have picked a better guide to accompany you on your travels. Welcome to Malta, and to the first issue of Malta Insider – an extensive and comprehensive guide of the best things to see and do, places to drink and dine, as well as lodge in Malta, Gozo and Comino. Conveniently broken down by locality, you’ll find all the islands’ must-sees packed into this handy guide – to ensure your trip is as well-rounded and complete as possible. If you’re visiting Malta for more than just a holiday of fun, leaf through the Business Supplement on page 53 for expert insight into Malta’s many booming business sectors, the opportunities for doing business, and all you need to know for working or setting up an office here. With all this and more, kick back and browse through hundreds of highlights in this jam-packed issue – and discover first-hand the best that the Maltese islands have to offer!
Martina
Content House Group Ltd would like to thank all the contributors, partners, advertisers and the project team that have made this publication a success. The choice of establishments listed and recommended in this guide is at the sole discretion of the publisher. The publication is distributed free of charge from MTA offices in Malta and Gozo, through leading four- and five-star hotels, as well as highly-rated boutique hotels around Malta and Gozo, to all ministries, embassies and consulates in the Maltese islands, and at prominent public spaces including trendy cafés and eateries. It is also sold at leading newsagents in Malta and Gozo, including those at the MIA and Gozo Channel ferries, and is distributed extensively in the UK, including in high-street shops and bookshops/newsagents. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information contained in the guide, the publishers cannot be held responsible for any errors it may contain.
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Calendar
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of events
In Guardia Parade
No matter what time of year you’re visiting, there’s lots going on across the Maltese islands. Here are some of the events you shouldn’t miss.
ALL YEAR ROUND Changing of the Guard Held every last Friday of the month, this ceremony is symbolic of the formal handing over of responsibility from one guard to another at the Presidential Palace in Valletta, led by the Armed Forces of Malta Band which marches down Republic Street towards St George’s Square. Admission is free; for dates check the website. When: all year round Where: St George’s Square, Valletta (www.visitmalta.com)
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In Guardia Parade This historic re-enactment transports you to Fort St Elmo’s most glorious days during the time of the Knights of St John. The 45-minute military drill starts at 11am and is performed by actors kitted out in fine uniforms. Admission against payment; for dates check the website.. When: all year round Where: Fort St Elmo, Valletta (www.visitmalta.com)
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Delicata Wine Festival Local wine producers Delicata will be hosting their annual wine festival to celebrate the year’s harvest. Visitors can savour great wine and local food, and enjoy live entertainment in the scenic Upper Barrakka Gardens in Valletta. When: 8-11 August Where: Upper Barrakka Gardens, Valletta (www.delicata.com)
Summer Daze Malta The second edition of Summer Daze Malta will host some of the biggest pop acts and DJs across various venues, including house duo The Martinez Brothers, underground legend Paul Kalkbrenner, BBC Radio 1’s Monki, local DJ Carl Bee, as well as pop favourites David Guetta, Tyga and James Arthur. When: 11-17 August Where: Various locations across Malta
It is celebrated with great pomp in eight villages simultaneously, namely Attard, Mqabba, Qrendi, Gudja, Ghaxaq, Mgarr and Mosta in Malta, and Rabat in Gozo. When: 15 August Where: Various towns and villages across Malta and Gozo
Joseph Calleja in Concert The Maltese tenor of global fame, Joseph Calleja, will take to the stage for his annual concert at The Granaries in Floriana, accompanied by the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra, as well as special guest and legendary Italian singersongwriter, Andrea Bocelli. When: 24 August Where: The Granaries, Floriana
Malta Craft Beer Festival If you love a good pint, head to Fort St Elmo in Valletta for this three-day festival that celebrates craft beer, where you’ll also find delicious street food and enjoy live music, all within a stunning historic fort. When: 30 August-1 September Where: Fort St Elmo, Valletta (www.craftbeerfestival.mt)
S E P T E M B E R 2019
Birgufest
Malta Pride Week
Glitch Festival
A U G U S T 2 0 19 Exploring the Phoenician Shipwreck off Xlendi, Gozo Following a 10-year-long exploration of the exciting Phoenician Shipwreck off Xlendi in Gozo, this exhibition highlights some of the innovative techniques used, as well as stories of trade, exchange, production and consumption in the Archaic Mediterranean. Objects recovered from 110 metres below the surface are also on display. Admission is free. When: Until 31 August Where: Gozo Area Office Exhibition Hall, St Martin’s Quarter Street, Cittadella, Gozo
Glitch Festival Electronic music enthusiasts from all over the world will gather on the island for the fourth edition of Glitch Festival in August. From rooftop pool parties to secret cave raves, this festival attracts scores of revellers for three days of sun-soaked partying. When: 14-16 August Where: Gianpula Complex, Rabat (www.glitchfestival.com)
From riots to rainbows, the annual Pride Week is a fun and colourful celebration of Malta’s LGBT community. The week-long event includes sports tournaments, informative discussions and a drag lip-sync battle, culminating in a pride march and celebration in Valletta on 14 September. When: 6-15 September Where: Various locations across Malta and Gozo (www.maltapride.com)
Feast of Our Lady of Victories
Feast of the Assumption of Our Lady The feast of the Assumption, better known among locals as the feast of Santa Marija, is both a religious and a public holiday across the islands.
Commemorated annually on 8 September, Victory Day marks the birth of the Blessed Virgin, as well as three important events in Malta’s history: Malta’s victory at the Great Siege of 1565 against the Ottoman Empire, the end of French occupation in 1800, and the end of
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the siege by the Axis powers in 1943. Every year, a competitive regatta is organised at Grand Harbour in the afternoon, while evening festivities are held in Senglea, Naxxar and Mellieha in Malta, and Xaghra in Gozo. When: 8 September Where: Various towns and villages across Malta and Gozo
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Malta Classic Mdina Grand Prix
Malta Military Tattoo The Malta Military Tattoo provides a weekend of entertainment with precision marching, formation displays and good music for all ages to enjoy. Following last year’s success, the 2019 edition will be held at St George’s Square, Valletta, against the magnificent backdrop of the Grandmaster’s Palace.
Birgufest
When: 20-22 September Where: St George’s Square, Valletta (www.maltamilitarytattoo.org)
Set in the beautiful maritime city of Vittoriosa – also referred to as Birgu – this event promotes the city’s heritage, while the streets and alleys are lit with soft candlelight. On top of the historical re-enactments, you’ll also encounter stalls selling traditional Maltese food and artisanal products. Entrance fees to the city’s museums are usually discounted.
Independence Day
When: 11-13 October Where: Vittoriosa (www.birgu.gov.mt)
Following almost two millennia of domination and colonisation by various civilisations, 21 September marks the day Malta obtained its independence from Britain in 1964. During this national holiday, various activities take place all over the island, including Valletta. When: 21 September
La Bohème Gozo’s Teatru Aurora presents Giacomo Puccini’s four-act opera ‘La Bohème’ – the passionate, timeless and indelible story of love among young artists in Paris. Colin Attard directs the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra, Aurora Opera Chorus and an international cast.
O C T O B E R 2019
When: 12 October Where: Aurora Opera House, Rabat, Gozo (www.teatruaurora.com)
Notte Bianca
Malta Classic Mdina Grand Prix
For one night in October, all of Valletta comes alive with a spectacular celebration of culture and the arts. The city’s streets, venues and public spaces are enlivened by music, dance, theatre, visual arts and literary performances, and state palaces and museums open their doors till late. Most cafés and restaurants also continue serving food and drink well past their usual hours. When: 5 October Where: Valletta (www.festivalsmalta.com)
Malta’s former capital city, Mdina, and its environs host a hill climb, classic car display and races over four days, when scores of classic cars are displayed in the city, after which they will compete for the best timing by racing in the roads that surround the medieval town walls. When: 12-13 October Where: Mdina (www.maltaclassic.com)
Rolex Middle Sea Race This annual, highly-anticipated offshore race will see over 40 yachts sail through one of the most beautiful courses in the world, along a gruelling 975km route. It kicks off
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and ends in majestic Grand Harbour in Valletta, and is a sight to behold. When: 19 October Where: Grand Harbour, Valletta (www.rolexmiddlesearace.com)
Il Trovatore For this year’s opera season, Gozo’s Teatru Astra will be performing ‘Il Trovatore’ by Giuseppe Verdi. This throwback to the golden age of opera is a perfect storm of excitement: a poignant human story spiked with drama and fraught with conflicting emotions. When: 24, 26 October Where: Teatru Astra, Rabat, Gozo (www.teatruastra.org.mt)
N O V E M B E R 2019 Three Palaces Festival This week-long festival sees the participation of artists of exceptional talent from around the world perform within the beautiful setting of three of Malta’s historical Baroque palaces and the National Museum of Archaeology in Valletta. When: 1-10 November Where: Across Malta (www.festivals.mt)
Vitori by Cirque du Soleil For the first time ever, Cirque du Soleil will present an exclusive and original live performance in Malta for the 40th anniversary of the Mediterranean Conference Centre in Valletta. The show mobilises a cast of characters inspired by the pieces in the game of chess, and is brimming with talent and force. When: 27 November-20 December Where: Mediterranean Conference Centre, Valletta (www.mcc.com.mt)
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D E C E M B E R 2019
J A N U A R Y 2020
A P R I L 2020
Bethlehem f’Ghajnsielem
Valletta International Baroque Festival
Good Friday
This animated nativity village is set up in Gozo every Christmas and draws huge crowds. Spread on 20,000sqm of land, the life-size crib features animals roaming in enclosed spaces, actors taking up forgotten trades and market stalls selling natural products. When: to be confirmed Where: Ghajnsielem, Gozo (www.ghajnsielem.com)
Republic Day This day marks the occasion when Malta ceased to be a monarchical constitution and became a republic in its own right back in 1974. Activities celebrating this historic date, which is a national holiday, are traditionally held in Valletta. When: 13 December
Christmas Eve Midnight mass is celebrated in most churches across the islands on Christmas Eve; some of the most elaborate ceremonies are held at St Paul’s Cathedral in Mdina and at Mosta Dome. Mass is usually followed by an indulgent breakfast at one of the many restaurants, hotels and cafés that open till late across Malta and Gozo. Alternatively, clubs and bars in Paceville and the surrounding area are open for business till the early hours. When: 24 December
New Year’s Eve There are many ways you could ring in the new year – the islands offer something for everyone, including pub crawls, open-air celebrations (the largest being the one held in Valletta that is free of charge and open to all), intimate dinners and parties held at clubs and other venues.
This festival was conceived to celebrate the Baroque identity of the capital and, for two weeks in January, with 30 concerts in 15 different venues for the 2020 edition, the city of Valletta will resound with music composed at the time it was built. When: 10-25 January Where: Valletta (www.vbf20.com)
When: 10 April
Malta International Fireworks Festival
F E B R U A R Y 2020 Carnival Traditionally a time of merrymaking before the 40 days of fasting in Lent, the origins of Carnival locally date back to the time of the Order of the Knights of St John. Today, children and adults flock to Valletta and Floriana, where large floats parade through the streets accompanied by loud music and cheering enthusiasts. In Nadur, Gozo, young people dressed in satirical costumes take over the village square for a fun weekend. When: 21-25 February Where: Valletta, Floriana, Gozo and other villages (www.visitmalta.com)
M A R C H 2020 Freedom Day On this day in 1979, the Defence Treaty with Britain came to an end, resulting in the last British forces leaving the island. The day is now observed as a national holiday, with activities taking place mostly in Vittoriosa, where a monument marking this event is situated. When: 31 March Where: Vittoriosa
As the Roman Catholic Church’s most solemn feast, Good Friday is celebrated across both islands, with processions depicting the last hours of Christ’s life taking place in many towns and villages. Those in Valletta, Zejtun and Mosta in Malta, and Xaghra in Gozo, are some of the best-attended by devotees.
This festival literally lights up the islands each year with spectacular pyrotechnic displays by Maltese and foreign fireworks factories, synchronised to music. The exhibitions of light, sound and colour take place all over Malta and Gozo, and are free of charge. When & where: to be confirmed (www.maltafireworksfestival.com)
M AY 2020 Malta Fashion Week & Awards Malta’s fashion industry takes centre stage in a week-long showcase of the islands’ best designers, models, stylists and photographers, strutting their stuff alongside established foreign names and brands. The venues used are usually as impressive as the fashion itself, and it all culminates with the Malta Fashion Awards towards the end of the week. When & where: to be confirmed (www. fashionweek.com.mt)
When: 31 December
ONLINE
We have researched and done our utmost to ensure the details listed here are correct, but events can be cancelled and dates may be changed. For the latest information or for more events, visit www.guidememalta.com and www.visitmalta.com. Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 27
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Farsons Beer Festival For 10 days each summer, locals flock to the Beer Festival organised by local brewers Farsons. Thousands of families gather to enjoy the locally produced beer outdoors, with no less than 30 bars and food stalls around the venue, and plenty of entertaining acts. Admission is free. When: to be confirmed Where: Ta’ Qali (www.farsonsbeerfestival.com)
Valletta Film Festival
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Valletta Film Festival
Isle of MTV
As Malta’s largest film event, the Valletta Film Festival transforms the capital into a large cinema, with numerous feature films and short films screened at several stunning venues across the city. When: to be confirmed Where: Valletta (www.vallettafilmfestival.com)
Malta International Arts Festival Local and foreign artists and troupes gather on the island for this 10-day festival which celebrates various art forms. Past international acts include a Globe on Tour production of Shakespeare’s ‘King Lear’, a recital by Chinese percussionist Beibei Wang, and a concert by Grammyaward-winning composer Arvo Pärt. When: to be confirmed Where: Valletta (www.maltaartsfestival.org)
Mnarja The feast of Mnarja is steeped in history, religion and tradition. People flock to Buskett Gardens for open-air dancing and singing, horse and donkey races, an agrarian fair, and displays of produce by local farmers, all in the name of Malta’s patron saint, St Paul, and the apostle, St Peter. When: 29 June Where: Buskett Gardens
As one of the biggest open-air summer parties in the Med, Isle of MTV has been attracting massive crowds of locals and foreigners each year for over a decade. The concert has hosted some of the biggest names in music, including Lady Gaga, Wiz Khalifa, Martin Garrix, Snoop Dogg, Jessie J and Maroon 5. Admission is free. When: to be confirmed Where: The Granaries, Floriana (www.isleofmtv.com)
Malta International Jazz Festival Bringing together some of the best Maltese and international artists in this genre for performances throughout a whole week in July, the Jazz Festival, staged under Malta’s starry sky thrills audiences each year with a range of contemporary jazz styles. When: to be confirmed Where: various venues in Valletta (www.maltajazzfestival.org)
The Marsovin Summer Wine Festival If you’re a wine lover and visiting Malta in July, this event is a must. Savour a range of Malta- and Gozoproduced wines by local makers Marsovin in a stunning garden setting. When: to be confirmed Where: Hastings Garden, Valletta (www.marsovin.com)
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PUBLIC HOLIDAYS 2019-20 Feast of the Assumption of Our Lady (Santa Marija) 15 August Feast of Our Lady of Victories 8 September Independence Day 21 September Feast of the Immaculate Conception 8 December Republic Day 13 December Christmas Day 25 December New Year’s Day 1 January Feast of St Paul’s Shipwreck 10 February Feast of St Joseph 19 March Freedom Day 31 March Good Friday 10 April Workers’ Day 1 May Sette Giugno 7 June Feast of St Peter and St Paul (Mnarja) 29 June
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10TOP THINGS to do in Malta & Gozo
With some of the world’s oldest free-standing structures, medieval towns and gorgeous beaches, there’s never a dull moment on the Maltese islands. Rebecca Anastasi highlights the essentials you mustn’t miss.
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2.
Visit the Baroque capital, Valletta
Honeycombed fortifications envelope the administrative, commercial and artistic hub of Malta – Valletta. Built following the Great Siege of 1565, and named after its founder, Grand Master Jean Parisot de la Valette, the city today is a breath-taking embodiment of the island’s history. The spectacular St John’s Co-Cathedral, housing Caravaggio’s ‘The Martyrdom of St John the Baptist’, as well as numerous other priceless artworks, is a must on your visit, as is the newly opened Museum of Modern Art, MUŻA, situated in the old Auberge d’Italie. But, before that, take your time to walk through the capital’s entrance and along its streets: a wide-open pjazza crowns Valletta, with the restored Triton Fountain gleaming in the sun, while the main thoroughfare, Republic Street, is home to the new Parliament Building, designed by Renzo Piano, as well as the open-air theatre of Pjazza Teatru Rjal. But, the joys of discovery can also be found in the narrow side streets, where the sounds and emotions of a lived-in city can be heard and felt.
More than a slice of prehistory
The Maltese islands have a long history, with evidence of human settlement dating back more than 7,000 years. The early inhabitants built temples, the oldest of which is considered to be Ggantija (3,600 to 3,200 BC), situated on Malta’s sister island of Gozo. Legend has it that this archaeological site – with its large megaliths forming two temples – was the work of giants, though that claim has yet to be proven. In Malta, the megalithic temple complexes of Hagar Qim and Mnajdra, as well as the Tarxien Temples, are evidence of these early inhabitants’ spirituality, while the ancient cave of Ghar Dalam – located in the outskirts of Birzebbuga – contains the remains of rare animals, such as the dwarf elephant, which once roamed these isles. But, no visit to Malta is complete without a stopover at the Hal-Saflieni Hypogeum, a burial site in which the remains of more than 7,000 of Malta’s early inhabitants have been found by archaeologists. Make sure you book your space on the tour, though – the site is very popular.
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Visit the historical Three Cities
Across Grand Harbour, the Three Cities – Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua (or Birgu, Isla and Bormla in Maltese) – serve an authentic taste of the Mediterranean. Start your visit with Cospicua, which has recently received a face-lift: its wide promenade, tracing the water inlet known as Dock 1, is a pleasant route to take and will, eventually, lead you to Vittoriosa. Here, traditional houses, boasting colourful, wooden balconies, pack the small alleyways and narrow lanes. Its pretty backstreets are also home to stunning auberges and fine museums, such as the Inquisitor’s Palace. The Malta Maritime Museum, on the Vittoriosa Waterfront, and, at the town’s tip, Fort St Angelo – a fortress which was integral to the defence of the islands during the Great Siege of 1565 – are also worth a visit. Down by the town’s waterfront, a stream of restaurants and bars promises refreshments through the day and into the evening. And, right across, Senglea offers unique charms: British colonial-era architecture, medieval fortifications and charming townhouses, while its eateries and watering holes serve authentic cuisine at very reasonable prices.
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Experience life under the sea
Thousands flock to the Maltese islands every year to scuba dive in its clear, blue waters and explore the underwater wrecks, which are some of the most visited in the Mediterranean. Popular sites include the resting place of the 10,000-tonne oil tanker, the Um El Faroud, just off Wied iz-Zurrieq in the south; the MV Karwela wreck in Mgarr, Gozo; and the remains of the Bleinheim Bomber near Marsaxlokk. Natural wonders also abound, including the famous inland sea tunnel and the Blue Hole in Dwejra, Gozo; the Reqqa Reef, also in Gozo, which is filled to the gills with stunning marine wildlife; as well as the Santa Marija Caves in Comino. And, you don’t need to be a veteran diver to experience the sights: the island’s gamut of diving schools are ready to lend a friendly and professional hand to those of all abilities.
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Take to the waters
There’s nothing like the blue depths of the Mediterranean Sea to make you feel all is right in the world. And, indeed, one of the best ways of seeing the Maltese islands is from the waters. Travel between the inner harbour region using the network of water taxis, or, if you’re looking to splash around and splash out, book a private charter for you and your family and friends. Let the skipper plan a route for you around the three isles, and make sure this takes you to some of the more difficult spots to access, such as Comino’s caves or the ochre sandy beach of San Blas, in Gozo. Alternatively, head to one of the islands’ beaches and rent a kayak or, even, a paddling boat. They’re lots of fun and you can be guaranteed much laughter.
Don’t forget to visit Malta’s sister isles
While Malta is the main island of the archipelago, and the centre of most activity, Gozo and Comino offer a peaceful, more rural visit. Both are easily accessible by ferry ride from Cirkewwa. The boat heading to Gozo departs every 45 minutes, giving you ample time to plan around the schedule. We recommend spending at least a weekend here to enjoy the many pleasures the small island has to offer, such as its long walking trails, sleepy village cores and dramatic, beachside scenery. Comino also deserves its fair share of attention –a day swimming in the spectacular Blue Lagoon, with its crystalline waters and dark limestone rocks, is pure bliss. Try get there early though – the crowds can be overwhelming!
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With temperatures reaching up to 40 degrees in summer, July or August may not be the best months to take a hike in the Maltese countryside. But, the pleasant climes of the islands in autumn and spring will have you reaching for the door and into the great outdoors. The north and the south of Malta offer some breath-taking spots to explore: Dingli, Mellieha and Wied Babu in Zurrieq are unforgettable, but if you’re looking to head off the beaten track, try the farmers’ village of Mgarr and the enclave of San Martin. The area known as Chadwick Lakes – on the outskirts of Rabat – has also been recently rehabilitated and deserves a look for its vibrant biodiversity. Moreover, Gozo’s pristine, natural environment is a joy to discover: head to Ta’ Dbiegi near San Lawrenz, Hondoq ir-Rummien near Qala and San Blas Valley near Nadur for the most scenic routes.
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Spread your towel and swim!
The Maltese archipelago’s plethora of beaches and swimming spots means you won’t be at a loss when it comes to hitting the waters. In the north of Malta, the sandy stretches of Golden Bay and Ghajn Tuffieha are particularly popular, while Mellieha has traditionally been where most locals take their families to swim on those long, hot summer days. In the south, Peter’s Pool, Fomm ir-Rih, Ghar Lapsi and Blue Grotto offer a rockier alternative, but their clear, clean waters will have you dreaming of a dip months after you’ve left.
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Get your walking shoes on
Be a culture vulture
Recent years have seen a variety of new artistic and cultural initiatives become mainstream as artists, filmmakers and musicians have sought to express themselves on a national level. This has proven to be a blessing for the local populace who, today, can enjoy quality work throughout the year. Summer is peak season for all events, with international festivals – such as the Malta Arts Festival and the Valletta Film Festival – all taking place outdoors, over the three-month period. The traditional festa is also celebrated in many localities around the islands from June to September. In winter, the recently refurbished Teatru Manoel in Valletta is a must, but keep an eye out for other plays, musical recitals and film events lighting up an artistic storm.
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Discovering the details of
Malta’s history Malta has some truly wonderful museums, and we love spending time exploring their fascinating exhibits. But which truly stand-out pieces should you see on your visit? Jo Caruana chats to four curators to find out.
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alletta – and much of Malta – is often referred to as an ‘open-air museum’. And for good reason! Here, history is literally omnipresent, from the winding alleyways of the Three Cities and the grid-like structure of the capital’s streets, to the open piazzas of our beautiful village cores.
THE PALACE ARMOURY, VALLETTA
But it isn’t just the island’s outdoors that is a treasure trove for history buffs; across the country, there are all sorts of museums begging to be discovered – from ones about Malta’s maritime past and its role during World War II, to those featuring impressive contemporary art and architecture.
It is located within the Grandmaster’s Palace, right in the centre of Valletta – so it’s very easy to reach on foot from the bus terminus or via other means of transport. I consider it to be a time capsule, with a collection that includes arms and armour from the period of the Order of the Knights of St John, between 1530 and 1798.
Operating the majority of these museums is Heritage Malta (www. heritagemalta.org), the national agency for cultural heritage. In fact, its sites are home to some of the most priceless gems on the island, and its curators have more insight than most when it comes to the items that deserve your utmost attention. Here are their tips.
A word from Robert Cassar, Curator The Palace Armoury was first established in 1604 and, since then, this originally-functional armoury has undergone fateful events that shaped its history throughout its 400 years of existence.
There is so much to see here, but my favourite item would have to be Grandmaster Alof de Wignacourt’s parade armour. It is unique because of its gilded decoration, which was executed in the ‘damascening’ technique. The work is attributed to the workshop of Geronimo Spacini, who worked in Milan in the early 17th century. It is an example of cavalry armour and was intended to be used by the wearer on horseback.
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In fact, it is actually a set – complete with a rondache (shield) emblazoned with the coat of arms of the Grandmaster and a chanfron (horse armour that covers the animal’s forehead). This piece would have taken such a long time to produce and would have cost a lot too, even then. I imagine it would have been a diplomatic gift from a foreign ruler to Grandmaster Wignacourt, and I never tire of admiring it.
“My favourite item would have to be Grandmaster Alof de Wignacourt’s Parade Armour.”
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It is practically impossible to narrow down a favourite item from within the palace and all its paintings, furniture and objets d’art. But since most of Heritage Malta’s sites have a number of those, I will zero in on a group of six Chinese porcelain vases that are as enigmatic as they are beautiful and rare. The collection is made up of two pairs of Kangxi-period jars complete with their lids in under-glazed blue, and a pair of porcelain vases dating to the later Qianlong (1735-1796) period, known as ‘soldier vases’.
“This group of six Chinese porcelain vases is as enigmatic as it is beautiful and rare.”
THE PALACE STATE ROOMS, VALLETTA A word from Emmanuel Magro Conti, Senior Curator for Palaces and Military The Grandmaster’s Palace in Valletta is the epitome of modern Malta. When we say ‘modern Malta’, we mean Malta after the Great Siege of 1565. The palace was the seat of the Order of St John’s government of Malta and its commanderies around Europe for well over 200 years. The grandmasters lived, ate, slept, worked and died within its walls. It was subsequently the hub of governance again during the turbulent two years or so of French Republican rule. Then, for over 160 years, it was the residence and office of the British governors of Malta, and it has played important roles ever since. I think of it as one building in which the Maltese can truly trace their history and inspiration.
Porcelain from the Manchu Qing Kangxi Emperor (who was born in 1654 and was emperor from 1662 to 1722) is well sought-after. He is considered one of the greatest emperors of China, and noted for the period of prosperity and peace that he ushered in. It is interesting to note that he reopened the imperial kilns in Jingdezhen, which were largely neglected during the decline of the preceding Ming dynasty.
These kilns, in addition to new technologies, rendered the-then novel Kangxi blue and white porcelain highly sought-after. These examples here are from the very first productions, and we don’t actually know how they ended up at the palace. It is likely that they were gifted to a Grandmaster by an 18th century pope, because there are numerous vases from the same period at the Quirinale in Rome (which, in those days, served as the pope’s residence). I guess it is the mystery and intrigue surrounding them – as well as the splendour of the items themselves – that draws me to them. Today, this palace consists of eight attractions – the Armoury, the main staircase, the corridors, the dining room, the Grand Council chamber, the pages’ room, the ambassadors’ room and the tapestry room. It will reopen in 2022 with no less than 28 attractions, with further spaces due to be opened to the public after the second phase of restoration.
MUŻA, VALLETTA
A word from Bernadine Scicluna, Curator As our new art museum in Malta, there is so much to love about MUŻA, which opened to the public in late 2018. I would say I am most intrigued by the art works themselves – whether that’s the paintings, sculptures, works on paper, furniture pieces, silverware, maps and so on.
As a museum, MUŻA presents so many narratives – and these are not necessarily restricted to showcasing artistic expression and art historical developments in Malta. They also bring to the fore so many aspects of daily human preoccupations that relate to identity and collective memory.
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In fact, as a team, we have gone to great lengths to introduce display arrangements that are more appealing and inviting to the community at large, apart from the obvious art lovers, historians and academics. MUŻA is about breaking away from the idea that an art museum is some sort of a hallowed space exclusive to art connoisseurs, art collectors and those who have studied or have a passion for art. We have invested in opening the doors wider to make this national art collection accessible to everyone irrespective of their background knowledge on visual art or interest in the subject. MUŻA has four main stories to narrate: ‘Mediterranean’, ‘Europe’, ‘Empire’ and ‘The Artist’. Not only do these four stories represent the Maltese islands’ geographical location and how it impacted on our political, social and art history, they also act as the backbone to the four gallery spaces in which the works of art are presented.
“Pietro Paolo Caruana’s oil-oncanvas painting of ‘The Penitent St Peter’ is fascinating.”
As for my own favourite piece, I would have to pick Pietro Paolo Caruana’s oil-on-
canvas painting of ‘The Penitent St Peter’ (although this was a tough choice!). Caruana was a very capable artist who lived and worked in the 19th century. From a young age, his artistic talents stood out – such that he not only excelled at the University of Malta’s School of Art but continued to study at the Academy of St Luke’s in Rome. Upon his return to Malta, he was responsible for introducing the-then relatively new printing technique of lithography, as well as for bringing in the ‘Purista’ style. I like this painting so much because the emphasis is on the calm and sobre atmosphere that pervades the space in which St Peter silently contemplates his betrayal of Christ, while the treatment of the background landscape is closely reminiscent of Raffaello. I find it fascinating that – even though you’d be forgiven for assuming Caruana completed this painting after his time in Rome – he actually completed it two years before he embarked on his overseas studies in 1819. Thus, this painting holds a very special place in the history of art in British Malta, because it provides concrete evidence of the very high standards of art teaching that were implemented at Malta’s School of Art. Look out for it! You’ll find it in the museum’s ‘Education and Art Practice’ room.
THE INQUISITOR’S PALACE, VITTORIOSA
A word from Kenneth Cassar, Senior Curator of Ethnography This palace is the only inquisitorial palace still open to the public anywhere in the world. It is a remarkable palazzo romano of the Roman Baroque style, and a unique former centre of power in early modern Malta. In fact, between 1574 and 1798, it served as residence and tribunal to the Inquisitor in his dual role of supreme judge of the Holy Office and apostolic delegate representing the Vatican’s interests in Malta. The current museum experience is mainly divided into three distinct spheres. At ground floor level, you’ll explore the remnants of the medieval and Hospitaller significance of the palace, culminating in the iconic Castellania courtyard, with its quadripartite vaults – a gem of early Hospitaller architecture. The rest of the floor resonates the domestic sphere in an 18th-century palace with a busy kitchen and stores at ground floor. On the first floor you can enjoy a resplendent piano nobile, reflective of a typical palazzo romano, inclusive of the cancelleria and other public spaces, as well as private apartments on two floors, including a series of 36 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S
anticamere, a bedroom and other sophisticated-yetintimate spaces. The third section portrays the other side of the coin, and focuses on the Holy Office with its tribunal, torture chamber and prison complex.
“This is a fine depiction of Pope Alexander VII, a very bright star in the firmament of both inquisitorial and papal history.”
My personal favourite item is on permanent display within the piano nobile – an oilon-canvas portrait of Pope Alexander VII (1655-1667), dating back to the mid-17th century. It is a fine depiction of the-then Pope – who was previously named Fabio Chigi, and who was considered a very bright star in the firmament of both inquisitorial and papal history. We know quite a lot about him because of the collection that he brought with him – including reliquaries, crowns, medals, gold rings and Maltese crosses, ivory quills, carpets, precious stones and corals, spectacles and gloves, silver cutlery, and a remarkable collection of manuscripts and books. He presided over 399 cases and worked hard to make the palace habitable with the construction of a spacious garden and a turret. Oh, and he also happened to keep a tiger here on the grounds!
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A jewel in the CAPITAL’S CROWN Within the splendid walls of St John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta, one of the islands’ most prestigious sites, are priceless treasures that thrill visitors and art aficionados alike. Its curator, Cynthia de Giorgio, shares fascinating insight about the Co-Cathedral and sheds light on one of its most prized pieces: Caravaggio’s ‘The Martyrdom of St John the Baptist’.
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alta’s capital city, Valletta, is brimming with history and cultural attractions – you’ll need more than a day’s worth here to really immerse yourself in the many sites dispersed along its grid-like streets. Among those many attractions is arguably the star of them all: St John’s Co-Cathedral, a massive stone church with two large bell towers which stands imposingly in St John’s Square, and houses an impressive masterpiece: Caravaggio’s ‘The Martyrdom of St John the Baptist’.
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ST JOHN’S CO-CATHEDRAL FOUNDATION
The church was once the conventual headquarters of the Order of the Knights of Malta. They built the church on one of the highest points in the city, and, as intended, it is impressive from the outside, but even more so on the inside. Throughout the 17th century, the interior was transformed into a glowing gem, embellished with gilded walls and precious marbles by the zealous knights to honour God with splendour. This surge of artistic patronage occurred in the wake of Counter-Reformation. It evoked an artistic style called Baroque, which started in Rome in around 1600. The French Grandmaster Alof de Wignacourt, an intelligent, highly-educated man who built the Oratory, made it his business to summon Caravaggio and offer him safe passage to Malta, enticing him with the glamour of working for a prestigious Order and the safety it would give him, besides the patronage of the grandmaster. Once in Malta, the astute grandmaster immediately put the artist to task and got him to paint his portrait. Caravaggio was keen to impress his new master.
Caravaggio’s painting of the martyrdom is both gruesome and fatalistic.
On 14 July 1608, Caravaggio was excited and nervous, as this was the day he would be invested with the habit of the knight of magisterial obedience, as the grandmaster had pressed for his knighthood to keep him in Malta. Without wasting too much time, the grandmaster got Caravaggio to paint the altarpiece for the Oratory. Caravaggio probably thought to himself that this was going to be the greatest work he had ever painted. Caravaggio is best known for his realism, yet the ‘Martyrdom’ scene is infused with a refined theatrical element that is far from realistic. The protagonists stand in
the forefront, almost motionless, where selective lighting defines the play of light across silk, iron and skin. These pure theatrical elements make the painting seem like the opening scene of a performance. In this painting, Caravaggio makes use of a special three-dimensional effect to break down the divide and invade the spectators’ personal space, forcing both physical as well as mental involvement. ‘The Martyrdom of St John the Baptist’ was probably his passaggio, which was the gift a knight presented to the Order upon being admitted as a member. Since his signature ‘f[ra]’ indicates that he was already a knight, the painting was most likely intended to be unveiled on 29 August, on the feast of the martyrdom of St John. During that time, the Oratory was a plain room and the enormous painting filled the wall with tremendous impact. Caravaggio’s painting of the martyrdom is both gruesome and fatalistic. His gloomy period in Milan and the violence he experienced in Rome fuelled his stark realism, and intuitively led him to represent the agonising human experience of death by beheading with clarity. Deliberately, he heightens the execution by lighting up the horrid actions of the event. They are clear and complete, except for the detachment of the head from the neck; this is the precise moment he preserves, creating a suspense that glues the spectators’ attention. Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 39
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The juxtapositions of contrasting characters fit like a jigsaw puzzle in shape, but are ill at ease in type and personality, showing his remarkable choice of iconography. Although the figures form a circle, leaving a space for the viewer to participate, none of the characters make any eye contact among themselves and not even with the viewer. They operate in silent detachment. The viewer is an intruder to the scene, caught witnessing the horrendous execution. John is dragged out of his prison cell to be executed at the command of the Petrarch Herod to satisfy Salome’s wish; the executioner holds the saint’s head pressed against the ground. The throat has already been slit – he now stands over John, reaching out for his dagger, and grasps the hair to better reveal the neck and finish off the job. The blade of the sword gleams in the foreground, demanding attention for the service it has rendered. The young maid impassively holds out the basin to receive the head. The old maid clasps her head covering her ears to block out the sound of tearing flesh and crushing bone. She is the only person who displays some form of emotion. Two prisoners look on intently, contemplating their own fate. Caravaggio exquisitely painted the janitor’s keys in detail. These are the keys that have imprisoned John and had also set him free. They imprisoned him in life and freed him in death. St John’s martyrdom is one of the artist’s most sensitive and yet unsympathetic interpretations of a man brutally executed. There is no indication of salvation or reward for the saint’s martyrdom. There are no halos or angels holding palm fronds for St John as a symbol of his martyrdom. There is no divine intervention and no sign of redemption. It is the hopelessness of the event that makes this work a poignant depiction of human suffering. From the blood gushing out of the Baptist’s throat, Caravaggio writes his name. What caused Caravaggio to sign the painting seems to lie in his need to verify
Caravaggio is best known for his realism, yet the Martyrdom scene is infused with a refined theatrical element that is far from realistic. his knighthood. His only qualifying virtue for having joined an Order of blue bloods was on merit of his art alone. His signature affirms his new status as a brother in one of the most powerful Orders. It also reveals his competitive spirit as the flaunting of his title as fra implies. Through his signature in blood, Caravaggio seems to have the audacity to draw his bloodline as though descended from the Order’s martyred patron saint, and was reborn a knight through his precious blood. His signature is a demonstration of the power of his art. Caravaggio was like any man in the age of chivalry; pride and respect were the font of his self-esteem. He could now not only carry a sword, but walk through the streets of Valletta with feelings of pride and vindication. Among some of the knights, this surely would have brought about feelings of disdain. All was going to plan, until his pride got the better of him. On the night of 18 August 1608 in Valletta, possibly only a few days after he signed the painting, Caravaggio got involved in a fight, where a senior knight was seriously wounded, leading to his arrest. His subsequent escape from Fort St Angelo, where he was imprisoned, had a disastrous outcome, whereby he was defrocked and expelled from the Order. This ceremony was held in the Oratory in the presence of the venerable council, which included several of his patrons, in front of ‘The Martyrdom of St John the Baptist’, the work he had so proudly and perhaps even defiantly signed fra Michelangelo. Malta, that had been his pathway to freedom, had him on the run once more. Caravaggio’s ‘The Matrydom of St John the Baptist’ is on display within the Oratory of St John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta.
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Food, glorious food: foodies dish out the goods on taste Local Malta’s blossoming culinary scene Sarah Micallef explores Malta’s ever-changing food scene through the eyes of three local culinary enthusiasts, to find out what they think of the current scenario, local food trends, what to look out for and exciting new developments in the industry.
“IF YOU LOVE MEDITERRANEAN FOOD, YOU’RE CERTAINLY IN FOR A TREAT”
Ivan Brincat is the founder of Food and Wine Gazette, an online portal which celebrates his passion for food, wine and the “good things in life”. Through the site, he has met and interviewed several world-renowned chefs, producers and entrepreneurs in the food and wine sector. “The local food scene has evolved considerably over the past few years,” begins Ivan, who feels that there has been an increase in variety and availability of ingredients, making Malta much more cosmopolitan. “In a way, the current Maltese food scene is evolving just like it had in the past, with influences coming from people that visit the island to work or live here,” he explains, adding that more and more ingredients are becoming available on the islands, which in turn leads to new dishes being created. Ivan also feels that many young chefs who gained experience beyond Malta’s shores are now opening their restaurants on the island or are working in local restaurants and trying to do interesting things. “The Maltese client can be very conservative, making it hard for chefs to experiment with new dishes. Experimentation, however, is essential if the Maltese food scene is to improve and not remain stuck in tradition.
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Tradition is important – it should serve as a basis – but from this tradition should emerge a modern Maltese cuisine that is centred on ingredients that are available and grown on the island,” he asserts, lamenting that there are still very few restaurants that have built a real narrative around Maltese ingredients and produce. As for what to expect on your visit, Ivan describes Malta’s dining scene as eclectic. “It is largely inspired and grounded in the Mediterranean, but there is also a British influence which is evident, particularly when it comes to the use of pastry. If you love Mediterranean food, you are certainly in for a treat,” he says, explaining that local cuisine displays clear nuances of dishes that have come from different parts of the Mediterranean, including Spain, France, Italy or the Eastern part of the Mediterranean. “When it comes to dining, the country still lacks a restaurant that is pushing the boundaries, that has the capacity to put Malta on the gastronomic map. However, what you will find is a large number of places where you can eat very well. Look for places which focus on fresh ingredients,” he adds.
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cut open sea urchins on the beach, and mop the roe out with a spoon or some fresh bread. That’s no longer very common, but the pasta dish comes very close,” he recalls fondly. The foodie also recommends Malta’s national dish, rabbit, cooked in a number of different ways, and when in season, lampuki (dolphin fish).
Speaking of exciting developments, Ivan reveals that there have been a number of interesting restaurant openings over the past few years. “In the past, it was impossible to find restaurants in some of Malta’s villages. Today, that has changed, and for the better.” Turning his attention to particular dishes that shouldn’t be missed, Ivan believes that there are myriad dishes to try! “Given that I live outside of Malta, nothing reminds me of home more than a plate of spaghetti with sea urchins. I still remember the days of my childhood when we would
“Roast meat with potatoes is what you smell walking around villages on a Sunday morning,” he continues, admitting a personal affinity for calamari and octopus cooked in different ways. “They are versatile and local, as is a sustainably-caught tuna,” he says. “If you are sure of the provenance of tomatoes, then you need to try a fresh tomato salad, particularly during the summer season. It does not need much – some salt, extra virgin olive oil and basil leaves. That’s a Maltese summer on a plate. And of course, don’t leave the island without having tried pastizzi (cheese or pea cakes), which are Malta’s comfort food par excellence. Finally, I would definitely try a great kapunata, which resembles the Italian caponata or French ratatouille.”
IVAN’S FAVOURITE LOCAL… RESTAURANT FOR FISH: Fumia, Tartarun, It-Tmun (Gozo) RESTAURANT FOR MEAT: Chukkas, Commando RESTAURANT FOR LOCAL CUISINE: Noni, Tal-Petut, Legligin LOCAL DISH (SUMMER): Spaghetti with sea urchins, octopus in garlic, grilled calamari, grilled tuna LOCAL DISH (WINTER): Rabbit stew, roast pork
“THERE’S MORE TO MALTESE FOOD THAN DILUTED ITALIAN CUISINE. THE TRICK IS FINDING IT”
JD Farrugia is the director of sustainable seafood NGO Fish for Tomorrow, which works with different stakeholders, carries out research, lobbies on local and European levels, and campaigns in order to create a culture of sustainable seafood consumption in the islands and beyond. “I feel that the local food scene is growing and evolving, and it’s a very exciting time to be involved in the industry. Around the world, people are starting to pay more attention to what chefs are doing, where their food is coming from, how it’s produced, what they can do at home,” says JD, adding that this is also visible in Malta, which is very encouraging. “It would be great to see more people uncovering traditional Maltese recipes and techniques, and bringing them out into the mainstream. We need to discover (or rediscover) our unique culinary identity and run with it,” he says. Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 43
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JD’S FAVOURITE LOCAL… RESTAURANT FOR FISH: Tartarun, Carmen’s Bar in Lapsi RESTAURANT FOR MEAT: Rubino RESTAURANT FOR LOCAL CUISINE: Tal-Petut LOCAL DISH (SUMMER): Mackerel (kavall or sawrell) especially if it’s smoked LOCAL DISH (WINTER): Stuffed artichokes and Maltese bread
Speaking of local food trends, JD points to a growing emphasis on production. “You’ve got cooperatives of young farmers who are trying to rethink and redefine the local agriculture scene. Chefs, restaurateurs and educators are teaming up with farmers and fishers, and even developing their own projects with things like meats and olive oil. And, of course, civil society organisations are playing their part by working on campaigns to bring a lot of this work out into the open,” he maintains, adding that the most exciting aspect of all is the fact that all of these players are working together. “Through such collaboration, we’re bound to see some very exciting things emerging over the next few years.” Turning his attention to visitors, JD advises doing some research and speaking to a few locals in order to uncover some real gems and fantastic dining experiences. “There’s more to Maltese food than diluted Italian cuisine. The trick is finding it,”
SARAH MICALLEF
“THERE IS AN ARRAY OF DINING OPTIONS, EACH GIVING INSIGHT INTO MALTA’S CULINARY AND CULTURAL SCENE” Debbie Schembri is a private chef and the face behind Barefoot and Curious. Having worked as a private chef on board luxury yachts followed by internships at two Michelin starred Coi in San Francisco and Noma in Copenhagen, she knows a thing or two about food trends.
“The Maltese food scene at the moment is really encouraging,” says Debbie, who feels that it has come a long way in the past five years, with new talent popping up all the time. “I think people are a lot more clued up about what they want, and hopefully the progression of valuing quality over quantity will continue,” the chef maintains, adding that while there’s still a way to go, she’s really enjoying seeing a diversification of ways to eat. “Private dining, pop-ups, collaborative events, food tours and cooking classes are all really picking up,” she continues, “and it is also refreshing to see young chefs and home cooks communicating more with producers and being willing to share information, rather than the 44 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S
he says. As for the local dining scene, JD notes that the number of pop-up events and supper clubs is increasing. “I think these are great ways for chefs to flex their culinary muscles, test out new ideas, and to give people something to talk about for weeks after they finish their coffee and dessert.” Meanwhile, his ‘must tries’ for visitors depend on the time of year, which, he says, determines what fish is available, what vegetables are in season, what confectionery items are made for specific feasts and holidays, and so on. “To really get the bigger picture, you need to try and discover as much as possible. Our bread is incredible, a good gbejna (local cheeselet) is a must try, zalzett tal-Malti (Maltese sausage) has to feature at some point, and imqaret (date cakes) or qaghaq tal-hmira (yeast rings) are fantastic with tea or coffee. I’m also a big fan of our stuffed artichokes and stuffed quail, but really the list goes on!”
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tired old way of being secretive about recipes and ordering practices.” Apart from pop-up dinners or locationand produce-guided events, Debbie also believes that there has been a huge boom in interest when it comes to cooking classes and eco tours, as well as homemade and artisanal products. While global fads do reach Malta, these tend to pass, but what she feels will remain is the interest in eating better; be it from the ingredients being used to the ideas of the dishes being created. “There has definitely been an encouraging sway towards more vegetarian and vegan options. I think people are starting to realise that eating better doesn’t have to be boring, and that vegetables are potentially even more interesting and versatile than proteins.” When it comes to Malta’s dining scene, the chef advises looking beyond the run-of-themill restaurants, to smaller cafés offering good, wholesome food. “There are some great fine-dining options, but more laid-back places with a view will often make a meal taste better,” she adds, also pointing to less traditional ways of eating, such as pop-up dinners and local village festivals. “There is a whole array of dining options, each giving a little insight into the interesting culinary and cultural scene in Malta.” Speaking of exciting developments, Debbie reveals that there have been a lot more collaborations in the past couple of years, with different chefs pairing up to host dinners or chefs being approached by art galleries to host gatherings, as well as dinners that explore Malta’s historical culinary past. “I think we will continue to see a lot more of this cross-over between different industries. To me, one of the most interesting developments is the interest from both locals and tourists in learning where their food comes from and wanting to meet farmers or learn about how the various market systems work,” she says. Finally, her top recommendation for local dishes includes octopus, which she feels is a must. “It is something that we take for granted as being completely normal, but I am always surprised at how many visitors have never tried it or are squeamish about it,” she smiles, adding that dishes made with good-quality vegetables at their peak, treated simply with a good glug of Maltese olive oil and local bread should also make the cut. Apart from that, Debbie says, “get your hands on some fresh gbejna (local cheeselet), ideally either the sheep or goat variety because they have more flavour, and also try some bigilla, which is a great Maltese broad bean dip.”
DEBBIE’S FAVOURITE LOCAL… RESTAURANT FOR FISH: There is a restaurant in Mgarr ix-Xini, Gozo, that I’m not even sure has a name. It is essentially a shack, so don’t expect any glamorous service, but the fish and shellfish have always been fantastic, and you’re eating right by the water. RESTAURANT FOR MEAT: For a good bit of pork, Pulled Meat Company, and for steak, probably Sciacca Grill. RESTAURANT FOR LOCAL CUISINE: Definitely Tal-Petut in Vittoriosa: authentic food using old recipes with a great host who wants you to leave with a tonne of knowledge about Maltese culture and culinary practices. LOCAL DISH (SUMMER): Simple hobz biz-zejt (local bread) with great olive oil and tomatoes splitting at the seams, then some local raw, red prawns, followed by fresh figs and tut (blackberry) for dessert. Bliss. LOCAL DISH (WINTER): I’d say one of my favourite things to eat are snails with arjoli (a paste made from several ingredients including tuna, tomatoes, garlic, breadcrumbs and onions), although you will only tend to find them at the beginning of winter. Otherwise fried rabbit with garlic.
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Reasons You Should Buy
a Holiday Home in Malta
Every year, thousands of expats make the move to Malta. Here, Jo Caruana shares insider tips on everything from the best locations to the perfect property style, putting you in the know about whether Malta could be the ideal base for you. THE ISLAND: Malta has been one of the
THE WEATHER: What’s not to love about a climate
Mediterranean’s go-to destinations for centuries, if not millennia. Brilliantly situated in the waters between Europe and North Africa, it perfectly connects its citizens to the rest of the world, while also providing a personality all of its own. And while it may be very small (just 316sq km), there is also lots of diversity within the country itself – from pretty seaside bays and countryside retreats, to bustling towns and quaint villages. So, first things first, do take time to get to know the country and its different characters, as that will be the most important step in discovering which town or village is a fit for you. Oh, and don’t forget Gozo – Malta’s littler sister island is just a 20-minute ferry ride away, and also has so much to offer those considering a move, especially if you fancy something even more off the beaten track and rural. You’d also be pleased to know that the Maltese people are arguably some of the friendliest in the world, and you will no doubt be beguiled with the local friends you make here. But beyond that, Malta is also a melting pot of cultures with people from all over the world choosing to live here.
that promises 300 days of sunshine every year? The weather has long been something that expats love about Malta, and there are still so many ways to enjoy it year-round, from hikes and scuba diving in the cooler months, to lazy days by the pool or on the beach when it starts to heat up. Of course, a hot climate does mean you have to take some things into consideration – such as probably wanting an air-conditioned home to help you cope with the high temperatures in the summer. But mostly, we just love the fact that so much of life here can be enjoyed al fresco!
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THE HISTORY: It’s impossible to think of Malta without its incredible history – there is 7,000 years of it documented for your enjoyment. From the Phoenicians to the Knights of St John and beyond, the islands have had endless rulers and contributors to their story – and that makes for a truly fascinating patchwork today. If you do love history, then you may want to consider a character house as your home. Usually located in one of the smaller villages like
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island. The added good news is that buying property here is very easy, with very few restrictions on what foreigners can buy and special incentives in place to encourage it. All good real estate firms will be able to guide you on this, while a local notary will draw up the important paperwork and searches on your behalf.
THE LANGUAGE: Did you know that Malta is almost completely bilingual? A huge portion of the population speaks both English and Maltese, and English is one of the two official languages here. This means that most expats will feel at home quickly, with English as a common base for making friends and even reading official government documents (which are required to be in both Maltese and English by law). This also makes it easier for English-speaking expats to find work should they want to, as most employers will require team members to be proficient in English (and not just Maltese).
THE SAFETY: While locals may not quite leave their doors unlooked or their keys in their car like they did until a couple of decades ago, Malta is still one of the safest nations in the world – and that is a prime concern for any holiday home seeker. With low crime rates, the island is a place you can feel safe. Of course, the usual rules of sensibility apply, but you can expect not to have to look over your shoulder too much while you are here. VIEWINGMALTA.COM/JEREMY ENNESS
Siggiewi or Zebbug in Malta or Gharb in Gozo, these properties will have been the barns or farmhouses of yesteryear, and can now be transformed into stunning, contemporary spaces that enjoy lovely, traditional features like ancient stone walls, arched ceilings and even mill rooms.
THE VARIETY: Malta has it all, and that also applies to the type of properties you can live in here. Yes, character houses are wonderful if you want something traditional and in-keeping, but there are lots of other options too. For instance, many expats want to embrace the fact they are now living on an island, and opt for a seafront apartment or penthouse with gorgeous views of the Mediterranean. Others are keen to have a private space, so they choose a gorgeous villa with its own swimming pool and sunbathing deck. Others still will be looking for a budget buy, in which case a small apartment in one of the lesser-known villages will get you more for your money. And with rental returns yielding around six per cent per annum, anything you buy could also make for a fantastic rental investment during the months when you aren’t on the
THE CONNECTIVITY: Whether we’re talking about within Malta itself or outside it, connectivity is another plus point. Plane routes from mainland Europe take around two hours, and London is just three hours away – with a constant stream of flights in and out of Malta International Airport every day. Locally, connectivity is also one of the benefits of living on such a small island as you can pack lots into your day with ease – a morning walk in the south, an afternoon swim on a sandy beach in the north, and dinner in one of the historic centres like Valletta or Mdina. THE LIFESTYLE: But the real reason to get a holiday home here? We would have to say that it comes down to lifestyle – and life really can be wonderful in Malta. Unlike some island destinations, there is an endless stream of things to do and enjoy here – from the fabulous local festi (with glorious fireworks displays throughout the summer), to the myriad festivals, music events, theatre productions, great restaurants, top spas, family-friendly activities and laid-back pace – all these and more make having a home here such a pleasure.
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PROPERTY INSIGHT Thinking of buying a holiday home in Malta? These properties are some of the hottest on the market right now – with tips from those in the know.
The Stylish Apartment
CASAMONT MALTA Located in St Julian’s, this apartment is a great fit if you would like to be in a central spot that is still nice and quiet. It is being sold fully furnished, with an open plan kitchen/living/ dining room, two bedrooms and a compact balcony overlooking greenery with sea views in the distance. It is fully air-conditioned and equipped with a washing machine and dishwasher. €430,000.
The Home With History
“It’s no secret that location is key when buying real estate, and this also applies when buying a holiday home,” says Casamont Malta’s Yana Gorshkova. “Look for places close to the sea and nearby swimming spots, but which are also close to amenities like shops, restaurants and other hotspots. Prime locations also make properties more viable as rental investments, so do keep that in mind too.”
ENGEL & VÖLKERS SARA GRECH This converted house of character is well located in a small village in the south, Safi. It was recently converted so it feels nice and new – with an abundance of natural light, five bedrooms, good outside space and complete privacy. It has air-conditioning throughout, a swimming pool, studio apartment, a large well beneath the courtyard, solar thermal panels on the roof and approval for the installation of PV panels. €1,150,000. “If you’re thinking of buying a holiday home in Malta, my advice is simple,” says Engel & Völkers Sara Grech’s Benjamin Tabone Grech. “As the island is so small, I recommend buying in the village core with a pool – whether it’s a small or large home. There are all sorts of benefits to this, including lower stamp duty rates and greater capital appreciation. There is more integration within the local community too, and a greater feeling of traditional Maltese life. However, always look for something already converted, as converting a property creates too many variables in my opinion.” Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 49
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The Base in the Capital
DHALIA Properties in Valletta are in high demand and short supply. Properties with a sea view in Valletta? Well, they are practically gold dust. This sea view apartment in the capital is wide fronted and faces the Grand Harbour and Three Cities. It sits within a block of only three apartments, and offers high ceilings, original, patterned Maltese tiles, authentic, restored doors and apertures, and lots of light. €1,150,000.
“This property’s most valuable asset is the breathtaking view from its living area and bedroom – of Senglea Creek, majestic Fort St Angelo, Kalkara Creek and the open sea beyond,” says Dhalia’s Chris Bonett. “There’s even an elevator planned to be installed here, which is included in the sale and very unusual for Valletta; unusual properties are always the ones to look out for as they hold their value the most. However, as a foreigner, it is important to note that you may need an Acquisition of Immovable Property (AIP) permit to buy locally, unless you’re buying within a Special Designated Area.”
The Seafront Penthouse HOMES OF QUALITY This unique two-bedroom penthouse is located in a very exclusive block, served by a porter/concierge and overlooking both the Ta’ Xbiex Marina and Valletta skyline. The property comprises a spacious kitchen/living/ dining room with a functional woodburning stove, a guest toilet, storage room, two bedrooms, a large terrace with teak decking and – crucially – spectacular views. €1,200,000.
“When purchasing a holiday home in Malta, ensure that the property reflects the qualities that mean most to your lifestyle,” says Alex Papagiorcopulo from Homes of Quality. “This will guarantee that your holidays on the island will be enjoyed to the full. Plus, if your holiday home is set to spend long periods locked up, consider hiring a property management company to air it from time to time, as this will help avoid frustrating problems when you do arrive.”
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WELCOME to
Malta
All you need to know to make this island your new home.
A
s an island in the heart of the Mediterranean, where cultures and continents have historically collided, Malta has welcomed people from all over the globe, from all walks of life. In the 21st century, it is a trans-continental hub for trade, a popular tourism destination and an overperformer in hi-tech industries such as financial services and iGaming. Over the past two decades, an influx of expats has made the social and economic landscape truly exciting, diverse and cosmopolitan – could you be the next to join?
“Malta is a trans-continental hub for trade, a popular tourism destination and an overperformer in hi-tech industries such as financial services and iGaming.” Whether you’re searching for a change of pace, or are looking to grow your business, Malta could be the stepping stone you’ve been waiting for. Before packing your bags and heading to the airport, here are some things you need to know.
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FINDING A JOB
Unemployment in Malta is extraordinarily low, and most large companies have vacancies begging to be filled, especially in the areas of skilled work. iGaming, hospitality and financial services are among the easiest industries to find a job, and entry-level work as well as higherpaying, specialised jobs are both abundant. You’ll need a job contract before you get a residence card and set up a bank account. If you’re a non-EU citizen, you’ll also need to apply for a residence/work permit at the Department of Citizenship and Expatriate Affairs.
SOCIAL SECURITY AND ID NUMBER
Applying for a Maltese social security number is an essential part of becoming a working resident in Malta and brings you one step closer to applying for a residence card. The resident ID card is extremely important and simplifies a lot of your day-to-day life. To apply for a residence card, you’ll first need to have your employment status confirmed by Jobsplus. Next, you will need to visit Evans Building in Valletta where you can apply for your residence card. To apply for your residence card, you will need an original and copy of your passport, your work contract, your Jobsplus employment certificate, and your Maltese tenancy agreement. The relevant forms must be submitted in person and differ depending on whether you are an EU or a third-country national. All relevant information can be found here: https://identitymalta.com/ citizenships-expatriates
SETTING UP A BANK ACCOUNT
Setting up a bank account becomes a lot easier once you’ve received your residence card. Most banks will require your ID card, a letter of reference from a bank or your employer, and a minimum deposit into your account to set it up.
HEALTHCARE
Healthcare in Malta is free to all citizens and registered working residents, so once you have your social security number and your residence card you can visit healthcare centres free of charge. Non-Maltese must show proof of national insurance contributions (such as a payslip), resident permit and any identification when visiting for an appointment. A list of documents required would be made available to you upon getting a referral.
ABOUT MALTA: Population:
475,700 Area:
316sq km Currency
Euro Real GDP Growth
6.6 per cent Unemployment rate
3.5 per cent
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ALL ABOUT
SETTING UP A BUSINESS in Malta
With a well-‐established regulatory environment based on EU law, a favourable tax regime, attractive government incentives, and a well-educated and highly motivated workforce, Malta is a very attractive place for foreign companies to set up shop. For those keen on starting a business here, there are seven stages to keep in mind.
1. Deciding between self-employment and setting up a limited liability company A limited liability company gives your business a more trusted face and protects you as a shareholder in case of defective products or lawsuits. On the other hand, there are more bureaucratic steps to follow when setting up a company (as opposed to starting a business as a self-employed person), such as undergoing an annual audit, so make sure your business is viable before registering it as LTD. You need to be at least two shareholders to register a company. 2. Preparing for registration If you are going to proceed with a limited liability company, then you need to draft the company memorandum and articles of association. These documents are important for registration, but they also detail what the company, its shareholders and its directors can and cannot do. It’s important to identify the right legal, accountancy and audit firms, as well as business consultants to guide you during this stage. 3. Depositing the minimum share capital As a new business owner, you need to open a bank account in the company’s name, and inform the bank teller that you are depositing your share capital. The money will go into a holding account until the company is properly registered. The receipt issued will need to be presented in the next stage. 4. Presenting documentation to the Registry of Companies The filled-in company registration form, together with the memorandum and articles of association, and the share capital deposit slip need to
be presented to the Registry of Companies. Registration is done within two to three days and the registration fee depends on the size of the company. 5. Obtaining licences and a tax identification number Once the trade name is approved and the memorandum and articles of association are filed with the Registry of Companies, the company is almost ready to start operating. However, before that one must also check if any special licences are required. Furthermore, each business in Malta has to have a tax identification number. While this is free of charge, once a year you will need to fill in a tax return form. This is another step where the assistance of a trusted accountant, audit or legal firm is invaluable. 6. Getting a VAT number and PE number You also need to register with the VAT Department in order to obtain a VAT number. Furthermore, if you have a limited liability company and you intend on hiring personnel, you also need to register as an employer and obtain a PE number. Both of these steps are free of charge and can be done online. 7. Registering with Jobsplus Jobsplus is responsible for all employment registration in Malta. You need to fill in a form for each employee upon registration, and again upon termination. The process is quick and free of charge. Government department Business First can help you with all of these steps, and can be easily reached through the website – www.businessfirst.com.mt or over email.
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RIGHT PROPERTY
FIND the
Once you’ve decided to move to Malta, you’ll set about finding the perfect property for you and your family, and/or the new headquarters for your business. But what will that involve?
1.
The cost of living in Malta remains lower than most European countries, but rent has become more expensive in recent years. You can expect to pay at least €800 for a flat in a central part of the island, and far more if it’s in one of the more in-demand locations such as Sliema or St Julian’s. Office or commercial spaces have seen less of a spike in prices, but as with homes, are largely dependent on location.
2.
Most people start their search through a property agency. Here you can sort through different kinds of properties, locations and price ranges, and get in touch with the agency to arrange for a visit. However, it’s worth noting that many properties are listed with several estate agents, so you may end up viewing the same property several times if you’re not careful.
3.
Once you’ve viewed a few different properties, settled on one that you want to buy, and your offer has been accepted, you will be asked to sign a promise of sale, known in Maltese as a konvenju. This is a legally binding agreement between you and the seller, and will involve a notary public.
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4.
At this point you are obliged to pay one per cent of the five per cent provisional stamp duty. The total sum is payable upon completion of the sale. You will also need to pay a deposit which is usually around 10 to 15 per cent of the agreed sale price.
5.
You don’t need a permit to buy a house here unless it’s a secondary residence. But if you are not a citizen of an EU country, then you will need an Acquisition of Immovable Property in Malta by Non-Residents Permit (AIP).
6.
You must also obtain a permit if you are considering renting your property as a holiday home, and any earnings must be declared to the authorities for tax purposes.
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WHERE SHOULD I LIVE? SLIEMA AND ST JULIAN’S The natural choice for many expats. These two towns have a large expat community, an exciting social life, and close proximity to many businesses and places of work. However, they’re the most expensive addresses in Malta, and if you’re looking for a quiet place to settle down, they’re probably not it. CENTRAL TOWNS SUCH AS BIRKIRKARA, ATTARD AND MOSTA These areas are located in the middle of the island and have good transport links to most other towns and villages on the island. They are mostly residential, and perfect for raising a family. MELLIEHA AND BUGIBBA Plenty of expats – particularly from the UK – live in these towns. Since both can be considered resort towns, it’s worth noting that they get particularly hectic in summer with the influx of tourists but are quieter throughout the rest of the year.
SOUTHERN AREAS SUCH AS MARSAXLOKK, MARSASCALA AND THE THREE CITIES The southern part of the island is worth considering if you’d like to be close to the sea, live in a charming, traditional village or town, and don’t want to pay through the nose. However, fewer expats tend to live here, so if you’re in search of a community of fellow emigres, this may not be for you. It is essential to have personal transport should you choose this option. VALLETTA The capital city of Valletta has grown in popularity over the years. After it was bestowed the honour of European Capital of Culture in 2018, much investment and life was injected back into the city. While entering and exiting Valletta can be a little daunting due to traffic, it is the best-linked public transport hub. If you choose to work in or rent offices in Valletta, living in the city could prove a convenient solution. GOZO Quiet, peaceful and with plenty of green spaces which Malta is sorely missing, the island of Gozo is accessible via a ferry that leaves Cirkewwa every 45 minutes. Since the commute may be offputting, it’s perfect for retirees as well as people who are planning to work from home. It should be noted that if you envision settling down in Gozo medium-to-long-term, a tunnel is being proposed to connect the islands which would make travelling more efficient, but is likely to make the sister island busier.
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THE
RIGHT RECRUITMENT STRATEGY
Now that you’ve set up your business in Malta, the next stage is hiring people. With unemployment being so low, and a comparatively small talent pool to select from, finding the right people can be a challenge. Here are a few things to keep in mind during the quest for your star candidates.
It is important to know exactly what you need out of a role, so that the right candidates apply when filling out the job description. While recruiting employees is not so different in Malta as it would be in other European countries, the talent pool is relatively small, so it is essential to get the recruitment process right. • If you are struggling to find the right people due to a lack of contacts on the island, you would do well to approach one of the many recruitment agencies on the island to help the process along. • With recruitment roles becoming more international, video and telephone interviews may be just as good at identifying promising candidates as face-to-face conversations.
• Once you have shortlisted your top candidates it’s time to check their references. It’s essential to check your candidate’s background – hiring the wrong person can be extremely damaging to the company. • Lastly, it’s never fun being the new person, but as long as your company is welcoming and patient, you’ll make a good impression early on, and quickly gain your new employee’s loyalty.
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SOCIAL MEDIA: You may raise an eyebrow at a section dedicated to social media in an investment guide, however, it’s worth mentioning that of the 80 per cent of Malta’s internet users, 87 per cent regularly use social media. The platform of choice for most Maltese is overwhelmingly Facebook, and a number of groups with thousands of participants are a great source of key information which will make your life in Malta easier. Groups dedicated to expat support, tenant support, homeowner support and consumer support will likely be of great help to you, especially since most conversations take place in English.
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iGAMING & BLOCKCHAIN Dr Priscilla Mifsud Parker – Senior Partner and Dr Silvana Zammit – Partner, Chetcuti Cauchi Chetcuti Cauchi is an international firm that guides high-net-worth families and businesses on areas including corporate and tax services, financial services, FinTech, residency and citizenship, property and more. For the tech-savvy investor fishing for the next blockchain opportunity, why is Malta a good option? Malta is unique in offering a comprehensive legislative framework for blockchain and crypto operators. The Maltese Government is actively pro-blockchain and has plans in progress to launch the company registry and lands registry on the blockchain. A precursor to these would be a unique ID on blockchain to facilitate interaction between citizens and the administration. This attracts investors who prefer to fund operations in an environment that offers legal certainty. The iGaming sector in Malta has grown massively. How can your firm help to identify a smart investment opportunity here? The local iGaming industry, which is celebrating its 15th birthday, has matured. However, since it is based on technology, any operator who can serve up innovative ideas that appeal to users, or traditional services in a more reliable or userfriendly manner, has a good chance at success. The Malta Gaming Authority’s (MGA) sandbox regime allows licensed gaming operators to experiment with cryptocurrencies in a limited, yet live-test, environment, where they will find a high level of regulatory support. What are the main risks and rewards to keep in mind when searching for the right blockchainrelated investment opportunity? I firmly believe that blockchain is today what e-commerce was in its infancy. People are by nature sceptical of innovation, as any new environment will create new challenges that need to be overcome without the benefit of experience or a roadmap. Learning curves are built on errors made and failed trials, yet those investors who find a team and product they believe in and persist in
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supporting, even during tougher times, are the ones who reap the greatest rewards. Acquiring a bank account for a business associated with blockchain and iGaming can be tricky. How can you help to overcome this? Following a decade of banking scandals, credit institutions are under increasing regulatory pressure to reduce risk. As a result, industries perceived as higher-risk have been avoided. We are seeing more FinTech institutions gear up their knowledge of iGaming, blockchain and cryptocurrencies, as once the risks are understood, they can be managed. Several traditional banks are buying or setting up FinTech firms to enter this space, targeting business areas that no longer sit comfortably within a highstreet bank client portfolio. We are able to help clients find the right banking partner around the world, depending on the business profile. What are the main challenges and strengths when investing in Malta? Malta benefits from a pro-business attitude, and foreign investors have used Malta as a base for flourishing international commerce. Administration is efficient – a company may be set up within 24 hours, English is a native language and the euro is the country’s single currency. Any company established in Malta has access to the EU single market under the right of freedom to provide services. T: 2205 6603; E: askpmp@cclex.com; www.cclex.com
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PENSIONS SOLUTIONS Deborah Schembri – CEO and Managing Director, STM Malta STM Malta provides pension administration services and offers a range of bespoke retirement solutions for Maltese and international clients. As pioneers in the field of QROPS, STM Malta continues to lead the way in developing and growing the pensions industry in Malta. STM Malta Trust & Company Management Ltd is authorised by the Malta Financial Services Authority to act as trustees and registered to act as administrators of retirement schemes.
Has the change in pensions increased Malta’s attractiveness as a jurisdiction in the eyes of investors? The dynamic pensions sector is spurring on Malta’s ambition to establish itself as a key European hub for pension schemes. Multi-national corporations and individuals alike are increasingly turning their focus to the island in a bid to put their benefit plans on solid ground.
Why would Malta be the jurisdiction of choice for private pension administration services? Retirement schemes have become an important element of investment planning, and Malta provides the ideal solution for the set-up of international pension pooling vehicles for high-net-worth individuals, international workers planning for retirement, or international corporations seeking to establish and administer pension schemes for their staff.
What are the main benefits of setting up a pension or retirement scheme in Malta? Retirement schemes and their administrators are licensed and fully regulated by the Malta Financial Services Authority (MFSA). Thanks to Malta’s EU membership, companies established in other EU member states can sponsor occupational schemes established in Malta. Fees for the administration and management of the scheme are comparatively lower than in other jurisdictions. In addition, a strong regulatory framework and the MFSA ensure the integrity of the plan and peace of mind for the scheme’s members.
How has the introduction of international pension plans impacted the industry? While Malta has primarily been catering to the UK market so far, other European cross-border schemes are currently being established, and growth is expected. The creation of international pension plans became a possibility fairly recently, as pension provision has traditionally been considered from a purely domestic perspective. However, the increasing mobility of both people and companies has facilitated this paradigm shift.
E: nicholas.bianco@stmmalta.com; https://info.stmgroupplc.com/malta
Has progress in the Maltese pension industry spurred investment on the island? Around 90 per cent of pension schemes based on the island serve the UK market, but Malta is seeing increased interest from other countries too, as international pension operators are beginning to see it as an ideal base for vehicles. The country and its regulator are determined to develop its costeffective and beneficial regime further, and to attract more multi-nationals, European employers, highnet-worth individuals, as well as wealthy expatriates to base their pension provisions in Malta.
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FIDUCIARIES, TRUSTEES & WEALTH PLANNING Geraldine Noel – Managing Partner, Acumum Legal & Advisory Acumum is an award-winning boutique set of legal, corporate, tax and fiduciary firms. Believing in longterm relationships, it provides holistic, sustainable and practical solutions to clients. Competition is fierce between jurisdictions trying to attract trustees. How would you convince an individual to set up a Maltese trust? The Maltese jurisdiction is particularly attractive as a trust jurisdiction to both corporate entities and high-net-worth individuals looking to establish a trust, as it is one of the few continental legal systems which has its own trust law, which is a common law concept, fully incorporated into its existing civil-based legal framework. Maltese trust law has cleverly been modelled on Jersey trust law, which is particularly robust as it is tried-and-tested, thus offering clients the advantages of stability and peace of mind. Maltese law recognises both domestic-based trusts, as well as trusts established under foreign laws. How can you assist entities looking to transfer or set up their operations in Malta with navigating Malta’s laws and regulations? As a professional trustee licensed and regulated by the MFSA, Acumum aims to provide holistic, sustainable and practical solutions which are tailor-made to suit the needs of clients, whilst being committed to a superb level of client service. Acumum’s senior management of lawyers, accountants and tax advisors provide expert, trusted and costefficient services to an international clientele, including individuals, family
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offices, corporations, governments and other service providers. As a law firm providing fiduciary services, how would you describe the approachability of the Malta Financial Services Authority? The MFSA has always strived to evolve alongside the growth of the financial services sector, and efforts to streamline it and thus render it more efficient and effective at fulfilling its role as regulator of financial services in Malta are always ongoing. The MFSA shows willingness to make itself available and approachable to professionals and service providers within the financial services industry, thus contributing towards the enhancement of Malta’s financial services offering. What are the main challenges of choosing Malta as a jurisdiction to invest in? The fast-paced growth of the Maltese economy, especially in recent years, has indeed rendered it a truly attractive jurisdiction to do business in. Such growth has resulted in certain challenges for foreign investors, such as increased competition, both local and foreign, the tightening of regulation so as to prevent abuse, and an increase in the cost of living overall. However, Malta remains a welcoming place and a great jurisdiction for business. What are the main benefits Malta offers to international clients that invest here? Malta offers many advantages to international business and we can provide the necessary services and legal advice to find the right solution to those seeking to invest here. Malta’s overall fiscal and regulatory regime are key advantages for businesses, as are its tax, commercial and trust laws, which have been an asset for developing Malta as a business and financial centre. Additionally, Malta offers a high quality of life, with a rich culture and history, a favourable climate and a thriving leisure and entertainment industry, alongside high-quality education and top-notch healthcare. T: 2778 1700; E: gnoel@acumum.com; www.acumum.com
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Business Insiders:
MULTI-DISCIPLINARY SERVICES Jesmond Saliba – Executive Chairman, Corporate ID Group Ci Consulta is a strategic executive and advisory firm within Corporate ID Group. It is built on the strength of a multi-disciplinary team of professional experts who help organisations and companies maximise their human, social, technological, organisational and brand capital. Malta is a relatively small jurisdiction within the international sphere. How does this impact your firm? The size of our jurisdiction means that we have to be multi-disciplinary in our offering. Our advisory services aim to provide contextualisation, whether in terms of how a corporate brand is positioned in the market, the impact of proposed projects on the social fabric of where it is happening, how regional and global geopolitical events impact an organisation’s business, what it requires to mitigate the risk stemming from disruption, and how to retain the relevant human element in an ever-changing technological environment. Our unique blend of expertise gives the corporate world local advice, based on the understanding of global trends, strengthened with a strategic approach based on vision and foresight. Your firm provides tailored data services in several areas. How, in practical terms, can this help a company grow? For the simplest of decisions, information is key. We provide relevant, robust, reliable intelligence and information to inform a company about specific business requirements. Backed by an expanding network of connections and strategic relationships, we offer timely geopolitical analyses, economic insights, media monitoring services and C-Level resources development, among others.
demographics, AI isn’t an exception. One has to consider that ICT is both a national and a European priority. It is estimated that in the coming years, the EU will face a shortage of around 900,000 ICT professionals. Now is the time to prepare for these changes. For an organisation to transform itself into an AI company, it needs to sufficiently understand AI and appreciate what it can do for the organisation, by capitalising what it already has, whether data, brand equity or its human capital. By doing so, potential areas of improvement can be identified, and AI can be used as an enabler. With our experts, we help them do that. What more can be done to bolster Malta’s attractiveness as a jurisdiction? I think Malta’s attractiveness as a jurisdiction, which goes beyond fiscal incentives, has to be based on how skilled our resources are. I believe that our skill set, our mind set in terms of operations, and our approach, need to go beyond an ‘islander’ mentality. We need to look beyond, and try to reach beyond our shores, yet remain aware of the realities and the context within which we operate, as part of Europe and with a global perspective. T: 2205 4553; www.corporateidgroup.com
Artificial Intelligence is growing in sophistication and complexity. How does your firm make use of AI to assist organisations? The rapid changes that the world is facing are often capped under an umbrella term ‘disruption’. Disruption normally has negative connotations, and if found unaware, organisations might not be ready to harness opportunities. Just like in societal changes, geopolitical issues and market
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I N V E S T I N G I N M A LTA 2019/2020 S U P P L E M E N T
Business Insiders:
COMPANY FORMATION & REGISTRATION Michael Spiteri Bailey – Partner, AE AE is an established and reliable law firm with a customer-centric approach. It offers a one-stop shop solution by assisting clients’ businesses in a holistic and comprehensive way. Malta has to compete with other jurisdictions to attract foreign entities to set up here. What are the main benefits of choosing Malta? Malta is a European, on-shore jurisdiction. It operates within the EU VAT network and as such facilitates trading activities with other European countries. The regulator is accessible. What are the main challenges with setting up a company in Malta? The main challenge is not that of setting up a Maltese company but rather the opening of corporate bank accounts with traditional brick and mortar banks. This has become increasingly challenging. Fortunately, e-money institutions are stepping in to fill the gap. Today we work with a number of such institutions servicing different business sectors. There are many such institutions licensed to offer services within Europe. They operate in an exclusively online environment and most invest heavily in their online platforms, making the client experience seamless and efficient. Global developments have led to more rigorous scrutiny of cross-border company activity. How has this translated in terms of investors’ interest in Malta as a jurisdiction? The increased transparency brought about by the implementation of the register of ultimate beneficial owners and the common reporting standards may deter some, less savoury, investors to set up in Malta. However, the more serious investor is more comfortable doing business in a jurisdiction which adheres to international transparency requirements and prevention of money laundering directives.
and consumers around the globe seek access to one-stop shops. We recognise the importance of this and have sought to develop an offering that broadly addresses our clients’ need to receive advice according to the flow of their business. We have built a team of talented and experienced people from different professions. We believe clients want sequential advisory services: one relationship, one set of values, multiple service lines. We do not offer company formation services in a vacuum. We have lawyers who can advise upon the proposed structure, company administrators who can assist in the administration of the structure once this is set up, licensed corporate and individual directors who can sit on boards in an executive or non-executive capacity as required, and a back office team which can assist the companies with their book-keeping. Our residency and immigration team allows newly incorporated companies to move their critical team members to Malta when this is required, while our employment team assists in the recruitment of staff. What can Malta do to increase its attractiveness to investors? Reputation is key. Malta needs to strengthen the necessary safeguards to ensure that its systems are not abused. T: 2122 8535; E: info@ae.com.mt; www.ae.com.mt
How does your firm’s company formation and registration services set you apart from the many others in the local industry? We believe that client relationships are the key to everything. We believe that people want to be in control of the processes that are important to them
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The Maltese islands
Uncovered
Valletta
p82 Must See & Do p94 Eat & Drink p106 Sleep
St Julian’s
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The Three Cities & Around
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Sliema & Around
p146 Must See & Do p150 Eat & Drink p158 Sleep
Mdina, Rabat & Around
p164 Must See & Do p168 Eat & Drink p177 Sleep
Mellieha, Bugibba & Around
p184 Must See & Do p188 Eat & Drink p194 Sleep
Gozo & Comino
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Valletta Malta’s Baroque capital is bursting at the seams with history, cultural highlights, places to eat, drink and sleep. No matter how long or short your stay is, a visit here is an absolute must.
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alta’s capital city was built by Jean de la Valette, the Grandmaster of the Order of the Knights of St John who gave it its name. Valletta boasts architectural gems to admire on every corner of its grid-like streets that are shrouded by impenetrably thick walls built to defend it from an impending Ottoman invasion. Stretching across just 2km at its longest, this UNESCO World Heritage site is easy to navigate, and best explored on foot. From the Renzo Piano-designed City Gate, head to the main thoroughfares – the pedestrianised Republic Street and Merchants Street. At de Valette Square, you’ll see the first church to be built in Valletta, Our Lady of Victory, commemorating the Knights’ Great Siege victory over the Ottomans. Meanwhile, just a few metres away stands the majestic Auberge de Castille, which houses the office of the Prime Minister.
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VA L L E T TA
Back on Republic Street, there are several cafés where you can make a pit-stop for a refreshing drink or light snack. Further down, you’ll find the world-famous St John’s Co-Cathedral, a treasure trove of Baroque art and architecture, housing precious works of art, including Caravaggio’s ‘The Martyrdom of St John the Baptist’, as well as priceless tapestries within its museum. Meanwhile, Merchants Street is a pedestrianised road that’s home to several shops and restaurants, as well as is-Suq tal-Belt (city market), re-opened recently as a bustling food hall. PLACES OF INTEREST 1
Valletta Waterfront
15 Mdina Glass
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The Lascaris War Rooms
16 St John’s Co-Cathedral
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Saluting Battery
17 St Paul’s Shipwreck Church
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Upper Barrakka Gardens
18 National Library
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Auberge de Castille
19 St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral
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Spazju Kreattiv
20 Teatru Manoel
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Our Lady of Victory Church
21 St George’s Square
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MUŻA (National Museum of Art)
22 Grandmaster’s Palace
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Pjazza Teatru Rjal
23 Is-Suq tal-Belt
10 Parliament Building
& Armoury
24 Malta Postal Museum
11 Hastings Garden
25 Charles & Ron
12 Fortifications Interpretation
26 Casa Rocca Piccola
Centre 13 The Cinema Bar
at City Lights 14 National Museum of
Archaeology
27 The Malta Experience 28 Fort St Elmo
In St George’s Square, the city’s largest and most prominent pjazza, you’ll find the Grandmaster’s Palace, which was the seat of authority from 1571 till spring 2015, when Parliament moved to Piano’s project in City Gate. You can then walk down to Fort St Elmo, which has undergone extensive rehabilitation works in recent years and is now open to the public. Just beyond this point, you’ll find the Valletta Breakwater – a feat of engineering that is also a beautiful spot from which to watch the boats entering or exiting the harbour. Valletta is dotted with gardens that provide rest and refuge from the crowds. Hastings Garden affords lovely views of Marsamxett Harbour, while the Upper Barrakka Gardens offer the best vista of Grand Harbour, with the Three Cities in the background. A gun salute goes off at noon on the dot every day from the Saluting Battery, just below the Upper Barrakka. From here, you can also take the lift down to the Valletta Waterfront, and sip a refreshing drink while admiring the majestic Fort St Angelo across the water. If you’re enjoying exploring, then you could head just outside the city to the Bastion Garden of Rest, a beautiful spot along the ring road of Valletta. Naturally, a long day of touring can work up an appetite. Valletta is home to some of the island’s best-quality restaurants, and you’ll find something to whet your appetite no matter what you’re after. Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 81
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Fort St Elmo & The National War Museum
National Library
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H E R I TA G E Fort St Elmo & The National War Museum Fort St Elmo’s history can be traced back to the late 13th century. It is now home to the National War Museum, which displays an excellent collection of items dating to prehistoric times, as well as two halls dedicated to the island’s role in World Wars I and II. St Elmo Place (2123 3088, www.heritagemalta.org)
Fortifications Interpretation Centre Housed within a restored 16thcentury building, the Fortifications Interpretation Centre is a cross between a museum and a resource centre on Malta’s military history. This is a good option for families, with games and 3D puzzles for younger visitors. St Mark Street (2122 8594)
Grandmaster’s Palace & Armoury This grandiose palace was the seat of Malta’s rulers from the 16th century until 2015. Inside, the five State Rooms, which are open to the public, are lavishly decorated with fine furniture, paintings of knightly pomp and British royals, colourful brocade, priceless Gobelin tapestries and a wonderful series of frescoes. The Armoury holds over 4,000 pieces of military hardware. Merchants Street (2124 9349, www.heritagemalta.org)
Grandmaster’s Palace & Armoury
Jesuits Church One of the oldest Baroque churches in Valletta, the richly adorned Jesuits Church was built between 1592 and 1600, and recently restored. Look out for one of Malta’s oldest sundials on the back of the church on St Paul Street. Merchants Street (2722 1241)
The Lascaris War Rooms This underground complex of tunnels and chambers once housed the headquarters from where Malta conducted its defence during World War II. Multi-lingual audio guides are available, and the tour lasts around 40 minutes.
. MUZA (National Museum of Art)
MUŻA (National Museum of Art) MUŻA is the new national museum of art and Heritage Malta’s flagship project for Valletta’s Capital City of Culture title in 2018. Located within the historic Auberge d’Italie, the museum displays priceless paintings, sculptures, majolica, furniture and silver, by both local and international artists, ranging from the late medieval to the contemporary.
St James Ditch (2123 4717, www.lascariswarrooms.com)
Auberge d’Italie, Merchants Street (2122 0006, www.muza.heritagemalta.org)
Malta Postal Museum
National Library
The Malta Postal Museum displays an extensive collection of artefacts representing centuries of the island’s postal history, some dating as far back as the 16th century. A fully operational on-site post office also offers a range of bespoke postal services. 135, Archbishop Street (2596 1750, www.maltapostalmuseum.com)
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Founded in 1776, Malta’s National Library is the home of the island’s most important historical documents, with highlights including all state archives of the Order of the Knights of St John from its foundation in 1113, and the charter granting the Maltese islands to the Order by Charles V in 1530. 36, Old Treasury Street (2123 6585)
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St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral
St John’s Co-Cathedral
National Museum of Archaeology VIEWINGMALTA.COM/CLIVE VELL A
History buffs need look no further for a fascinating introduction to the prehistory and history of the Maltese islands, spanning around 7,000 years. Exhibits at this museum range from the Neolithic (5,200 BC) to the Phoenician (600 BC) periods. Auberge de Provence, Republic Street (2122 1623, www.heritagemalta.org)
Our Lady of Victory Church This superb church has the distinction of being the first building to be constructed in Valletta, to commemorate the Knights’ victory over the Ottomans during the Great Siege of 1565. It was personally funded by Grandmaster de la Valette. Victory Square (9963 7409, www.ourladyofvictory.org.mt)
St John’s Co-Cathedral The world-famous Co-Cathedral was commissioned in 1572 as the conventual church of the Order. Designed by Maltese architect Girolamo Cassar and completed in 1577, its austere façade hides a lavish interior, whose embellishment was largely entrusted to celebrated Italian artist Mattia Preti. One of the Co-Cathedral’s other priceless treasures is Caravaggio’s ‘The Martyrdom of St John the Baptist’, completed in 1608 and displayed in the Oratory. St John Street (2122 0536, www.stjohnscocathedral.com)
National Museum of Archaeology
St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral The only Anglican cathedral in Malta, St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral was founded by Queen Adelaide, the widow of King William IV, who wanted a place of Anglican worship on the island during her stay. The spire is a Valletta landmark, rising to over 60 metres. Independence Square (2122 5714, www.anglicanmalta.org)
St Paul’s Shipwreck Church Although its interior dates from the 16th century, this church’s façade was finished over 100 years later according to the design of architect Nikola Zammit. Among its numerous treasures are the relic of the wrist bone of St Paul, displayed in an elaborate gold niche. 74, St Paul Street (2123 6013)
AT T R A C T I O N S Auberge de Castille As the official seat of the Prime Minister, this building is not open to the public. Nevertheless, its ornate exterior makes for an important stop on your tour of the capital. Built by the Knights of the Order of St John in the 16th century, it is an architectural masterpiece. Castille Place
Casa Rocca Piccola Casa Rocca Piccola is a stately home owned by the 9th Marquis de Piro. It was built in the late 16th century for Don Pietro La Rocca, and boasts a private chapel, a gorgeous four-poster bed, a sedan chair that once belonged to a French knight, plus so much more. 74, Republic Street (2122 1499, www.casaroccapiccola.com)
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Upper Barrakka Gardens
Hastings Garden Hastings Garden is located on the bastions on the west side of Valletta, and offers magnificent views of Floriana, Msida, Sliema, Manoel Island and Marsamxett Harbour. It is named after Lord Hastings, a former British governor of Malta who died at sea in 1827 and lies buried in the garden.
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The Malta Experience
The striking, limestone Parliament Building is the meeting place of the Parliament of Malta. It was constructed between 2011 and 2015 to designs by Renzo Piano as part of the City Gate Project. Most of it is closed off for security reasons, but exhibitions on the ground floor are occasionally open to the public.
Windmill Street
Republic Street
Is-Suq Tal-Belt
Saluting Battery
Inspired by the iconic food markets of Europe, the Suq or Valletta Market, originally completed in 1861, now houses a variety of eateries, serving Maltese, Italian, French, Spanish, American and Asian cuisines, and a small food market. Merchants Street (2210 3500, www.issuqtalbelt.com)
The Saluting Battery may just be the oldest saluting battery still in operation anywhere in the world. For almost 500 years, its guns protected the harbour against naval assault. Following a half-century lull, this battery is back in use, and its guns sound off daily at the mid-day mark. Battery Street (www.salutingbattery.com)
Malta 5D
St George’s Square
This multi-lingual audio-visual experience provides a journey through Malta’s history with special 3D cinematic effects, leg ticklers, water sprays, air blasts, scents and the jostles of moving seats.
St George’s Square is Valletta’s largest and most prominent square, located at the very heart of the city right in front of the magnificent Grandmaster’s Palace. The Changing of the Guard ceremony is held every last Friday of the month here, commencing at 10.30am, with the Armed Forces of Malta Band conducting a marching display following the exchange of duties.
7, Old Bakery Street (2735 5001, www.malta5d.com)
Parliament Building
Parliament Building
Republic Street 84 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S
The Malta Experience This well-produced 45-minute documentary is available in 18 languages and covers Malta’s turbulent 7,000-year history, focusing on all the important eras in a gripping manner. Fun for all the family. St Elmo Bastion, Mediterranean Street (2124 3776, www.themaltaexperience.com)
Upper Barrakka Gardens The Upper Barrakka Gardens afford one of the most beautiful panoramic views in Malta, commanding a unique vista of the only natural harbour in the Mediterranean, with the Three Cities as its backdrop. A number of art, music and wine festivals are held in this scenic spot. St Ursula Street
Valletta Waterfront The vibrant Valletta Waterfront features a series of restored 18thcentury vaults which house cafés, bars, restaurants and shops. The view of Grand Harbour and the Three Cities from here is stunning. (www.vallettawaterfront.com)
Please quote “Malta Insider� at the ticketing counter to claim your discount.
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BRIAN GRECH
VA L L E T TA
Blue Shop
IAN ABDILL A
Chocolate District
LEISURE C Camilleri & Sons Ltd
The Artisans Centre This well-stocked shop offers a vast range of souvenirs including handwoven Gozitan bizzilla (local lace), hand-painted ceramics, glassware and jewellery, made by local artisans. 3, St John’s Square (2124 6216). Also 288, Republic Street, Valletta
Blitz
Charles & Ron Malta’s leading fashion designer duo have generated an international following, and their flagship store in the capital stocks many of their trademark colourful pieces.
Blitz operates within a four-level, 400-year-old Valletta townhouse, and is one of the island’s foremost private contemporary art spaces.
58D, Republic Street (2124 0184, www.charlesandron.com). Also Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa, DePaule Avenue, Attard
68, St Lucia Street (2122 4992, www.thisisblitz.com)
Chocolate District
Blue Shop This Italian boutique is home to a lovely selection of clothing, handmade using natural fibres. The shop specialises in linen items which are designed and crafted by skilled artisans who work on ancient looms. 37, Merchants Street (2703 5451, www.blueshopvalletta.com)
C Camilleri & Sons Ltd This family-run institution, established in 1843, offers homemade ice-cream, pick-and-mix sweets, freshly made chocolate truffles, and daily baked cakes and local sweets. 49-51, Merchants Street (2124 1642, www.ccamilleriandsonsltd.com.mt)
Chocolate District stocks a variety of luxury chocolate brands, including Michel Cluizel, Pacari and Marou, and has an in-shop cafeteria serving pure chocolate melted drinks on tap and local fusions.
Charles & Ron
Classic Jewellers Founded in 1978, Classic Jewellers has today established itself as one of the leading jewelleries and watch shops in Malta. Besides locally made pieces, it also stocks a number of renowned international brands including Longines, Pandora, Ice-Watch, Miluna, Swatch, Zoccai, Marco Bicego and Movado.
13, Melita Street (2788 8668, www.chocolatedistrict.com)
20, Merchants Street. Also across Malta
The Cinema Bar at Citylights
Luxury timepieces and fine jewellery abound in this high-end boutique, with brands including Omega, Cartier, Zenith, Damiani and Mikimoto, among others. Also available are a bridal collection, a bespoke jewellery service, plus a repair and after-sales service for timepieces.
This former seedy Colonial-era adult cinema has been repurposed and revived, and now attracts a hip crowd with its regular screenings of cult classics, indie darlings and foreign language flicks – check the Facebook page to see what’s on. Patrons can also enjoy a craft beer or two from the well-stocked bar. 56, St John Street
Diamonds International
293, Republic Street (2203 5202). Also Portomaso, St Julian’s
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LIONEL GALEA
VA L L E T TA
Pjazza Teatru Rjal
Joseph Busuttil
Edwards Lowell Co Ltd This family-run watch and jewellery business represents top brands including Rolex, Chopard, Raymond Weil, Breitling, Patek Philippe, Hublot, Parmigiani and A Lange & Söhnel. Ring the bell to discover what’s inside! 6, 7, St Zachary Street (2124 7447, www.elcol.com). Also St George’s Road, Spinola Bay, St Julian’s
Joseph Busuttil Over 100 years old, this family-run souvenir shop sells a high-quality selection of authentic Maltese lace, as well as antique pieces, Gozitan glass, filigree, unique pieces of jewellery and silver items. 222, Merchants Street (2124 3241)
King Shoe Shop This family-run shoe store has become a fixture on the Maltese footwear scene. It stocks renowned brands such as Ara, Pikolinos and Ecco; it’s a good place to head to if you’re looking for a quality pair of shoes.
Mdina Glass
Malta Society of Arts
Pjazza Teatru Rjal
The Malta Society of Arts was established in 1852 and is Malta’s oldest institution for the promotion of the arts and crafts. Within the historic Palazzo de La Salle, which has been the official seat of the society since 1924, the MSA holds various exhibitions, cultural events and courses in the performing and applied arts.
Housed in the ruins of the Royal Opera House, which was destroyed in World War II and later restored as part of Renzo Piano’s City Gate project, Pjazza Teatru Rjal is an open-air performance space providing a diverse, high-quality, cultural programme which reaches its apex in summer.
Palazzo de La Salle, 219, Republic Street (2124 4339, artsmalta.org)
Mdina Glass One of the island’s most renowned ‘Made in Malta’ brands, Mdina Glass offers a delightful selection of glassware in everything from traditional styles to vibrant, contemporary designs, with a range of prices to suit most budgets. 14, Merchants Street (2122 6488, www.mdinaglass.com.mt). Also across Malta
42, Ordnance Street (2122 4804, www.kingshoeshop.net) Also Tigrija Palazz, Rabat, Gozo 88 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S
Republic Street (2247 8100)
Spazju Kreattiv Spazju Kreattiv, housed within the magnificent St James Cavalier, holds frequent contemporary exhibitions as part of a packed arts calendar. Its modern theatre provides a fitting backdrop for the contemporarystyle pieces that are frequently performed here. Meanwhile, the cinema at Spazju Kreattiv screens everything from live broadcasts of London’s National Theatre to New York’s Metropolitan Opera productions, and independent and foreign-language films. St James Cavalier, Castille Place (2122 3200, www.kreattivita.org)
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Teatru Manoel
LUIZ RODRIGUEZ
The Wembley Store
Valletta Contemporary Theobroma
Studio 104 Valletta Fine Art Space
Theobroma
Victor Pasmore Gallery
104, St Lucia Street (9928 2806)
This innovative vegan confectionery only uses ingredients that are organic and dense in healthy nutrients. All products here are gluten-free, the majority made using dried fruits and nuts, as well as organic sugars.
Teatru Manoel
123, Old Theatre Street (2124 0304, www.theobromacacaocollective.com)
Housed within the Central Bank of Malta’s Polverista Gallery, this permanent exhibition of the works of British abstract art pioneer Victor Pasmore displays paintings and constructions which he created during his time in Malta, along with works created a few years earlier.
This fine art space exhibits a range of contemporary art, including audio-visual and installation art. Giftware is also available for purchase.
Teatru Manoel is one of the oldest working theatres in Europe. Be sure to catch whatever performance is on during your visit, be it the annual Valletta International Baroque Festival, an opera, musical, ballet, drama or comedy. Old Theatre Street (2124 6389, www.teatrumanoel.com.mt)
Valletta Contemporary
St James Countergard, Nelson Avenue (2550 3360)
Located at the lower east end of Valletta, Valletta Contemporary is a hub for the exhibition of contemporary art, and for educational purposes through its outreach and knowledgesharing initiatives. It functions as an interactive centre where culture is always in discussion.
The Wembley Store
East Street (www.vallettacontemporary.com)
305, Republic Street (2122 5147, www.thewembleystore.com)
This large green-fronted shop has been a Valletta establishment since 1924. Here you’ll find everything from freshly baked pies and speciality goods, to ricotta kannoli and boxes of gourmet chocolates. Local and foreign wines are stocked in the cellar downstairs.
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E AT & D R I N K
Caffe Cordina
Piadina Caffé
CAFÉS
Café Prego Open since 1946, Café Prego is a mainstay in Valletta and a precursor of Malta’s now-thriving coffee culture, as well as the home of the country’s very first coffee machine.
Museum Café This family-run café traces its roots all the way back to 1921, and inside is a treasure trove of knick-knacks to prove it. Portions here are abundant, and prices are reasonable. 24, Melita Street (2124 2833)
58, South Street (2122 4062)
Caffe Cordina Caffe Cordina enjoys an incredible location in Pjazza Regina. Over the years, it has evolved to incorporate a restaurant, tea rooms, pasticceria, coffee bar and gelateria. 244, Republic Street (2065 0400, www.caffecordina.com)
Kantina Café & Wine Bar
No.43 No.43 serves up a variety of healthy but delicious bites, from the famous 25 salads range to a variety of fresh sandwiches, soups and even home-made cakes. The menu changes every day, and features seasonal ingredients. 43, Merchants Street (2703 2294)
Piadina Caffé
Located beneath the trees next to St John’s Co-Cathedral, this quaint coffee shop offers indoor seating within a kantina (cellar), and plenty of seating outdoors in the square.
This hole-in-the-wall café is particularly known for its namesake piadine (home-made flatbread), served with classic Italian ingredients such as provolone cheese, salami Milano, prosciutto crudo and grana Padano.
103B, C, St John’s Square (2723 0096)
24, St Lucia Street (2122 5983, www.piadinacaffe.com)
Lot Sixty One Lot Sixty One is a globally-renowned café franchise which opened its doors in Valletta not too long ago. High-quality green beans are hand-roasted on location, and events and sessions are frequently organised for those who want to learn more. 30, Old Theatre Street (7984 1561). Also Spinola Park, St Julian’s 94 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S
Soul Food Fresh, mouth-watering dishes inspired by traditional Italian cuisine are the order of the day at Soul Food, with a menu that is entirely dependent on the seasons and that caters for vegetarian and vegan foodies. 76, Merchants Street (2123 4311)
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Sunday in Scotland
TukTuk South Indian Streatery
Nenu the Artisan Baker
Sunday in Scotland
MALTESE
This luxury artisan chocolate shop and boutique café offers up a collection of delicate chocolates, cakes and biscuits, all of which are made in Malta. They can be taken away in the most beautiful packaging, making them the perfect portable gift.
King’s Own Band Club Bar & Restaurant
172, St Lucia Street (9999 6656, sundayinscotland.com)
The Undercroft Café The Undercroft Café is located in the undercroft of St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral, and offers a range of snacks, homemade sweets and cakes, an afternoon tea service, as well as a London-style theatre and concert house service. Old Theatre Street (2707 5876, www.theundercroftcafe.com)
Run by the accomplished Roberta Preca, this uberauthentic, casual dining spot, frequented by locals, serves up traditional local cuisine within the premises of the King’s Own Band Club. Al fresco dining is possible on summer evenings on the pedestrian street. 274, Republic Street (2123 0281)
La Pira Maltese Kitchen This small, family-run restaurant makes dining on a budget a real pleasure. Book in advance to secure a table outdoors on bustling Merchants Street and tuck into the delicious, traditionally cooked rabbit. Merchants Street (2722 0232)
Nenu the Artisan Baker INDIAN
TukTuk South Indian Streatery Inspired by the food hawkers of India, the restaurant combines delicious roadside and railway station-style dishes such as dosas and chaats with much-loved Indian curries such as chicken tikka and lamb rogan josh. 174, Merchants Street (2122 3256, www.tuktuk.com.mt). Also Spinola Park, St Julian’s
Housed within a restored former bakery, diners at Nenu can watch the talented chefs use the original wood-fired stone oven, which is over 100 years old, to prepare the incredible pizza-style ftajjar – featuring a dough base with a variety of locally sourced toppings. 143, St Dominic Street (2258 1535, www.nenuthebaker.com)
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59 Republic
Browns
The Harbour Club
MEDITERRANEAN
Da Pippo
59 Republic
Consistently delicious and refreshingly laid-back, Da Pippo’s lengthy waiting list is amply justified. Menus don’t exist here, and meals are prepared according to what’s fresh that day. Book in advance to avoid disappointment.
A relatively recent addition to the Maltese haute cuisine scene, 59 Republic is making quite a name for itself for its top-quality offerings; from its sumptuous décor to its glorious food. The menu features classic cuisine with a contemporary touch, leaning towards the French style. 59, Republic Street (2123 8014, www.fiftyninerepublic.com)
Beati Paoli Beati Paoli is a charming dining spot, run by a family who are only too keen to have a friendly chat with their patrons. The menu offers up a breadth of carefully crafted dishes, but the changing specials are usually particularly gorgeous. There’s also a great selection of local and European wines on offer. 240, St Paul Street (9930 9319)
Browns If you’re visiting the Valletta Waterfront, Browns is a great place to relax and refuel, with lovely views to boot. The eatery, owned and operated by brothers Jonathan and Sandro Mamo, has a vast and varied menu, ranging from meat, fish and salads to pizzas and pastas. Vault 4, Valletta Waterfront (2702 0471, www.browns.com.mt)
136, Melita Street (2124 8029)
Giannini For a great meal with an outstanding view, Giannini is a safe bet. Led by chef patron Aaron De Giorgio, Giannini specialises in flavoursome Mediterranean cuisine, with changing daily specials scribbled on the blackboard. 23, Windmill Street, St Michael’s Bastions (2123 7121, www.giannini.com.mt)
Guzé Situated in a 16th-century building, Guzé is all about authenticity. The welcoming and cosy restaurant has an original and inventive menu based on seasonal produce and a genuine passion for food. 22, Old Bakery Street (2123 9686, www.guzevalletta.com)
The Harbour Club True to its name, this elegant eatery is just a few seconds’ walk from the promenade overlooking Grand Harbour – and has a divine Mediterranean menu with French influence to top it all that changes according to seasonality. 4, 5, Barriera Wharf (2122 2332, www.theharbourclubmalta.com)
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Old Bakery’s Kitchen
Palazzo Preca
Sciacca Grill
L’Artiglio Ristorante
Palazzo Preca
L’Artiglio serves a fine menu for lunch and dinner, which can be enjoyed in the restaurant’s courtyard in the warmer months. Patrons can watch the chefs at work through its open kitchen and enjoy a scrumptious meal in an elegant Mediterranean atmosphere.
Set within a beautifully refurbished 16th-century palazzo, Palazzo Preca is run by talented sisters Ramona and Roberta Preca. Choose from the blackboard specials or the extensive menu, and have a leaf through the vast wine list, which includes excellent vintages and the Palazzo Preca house wines.
64, Melita Street (2247 6601, www.lartiglio.com.mt)
MUŻA Restaurant Every dish served at MUŻA Restaurant is inspired by a painting exhibited within MUŻA, Malta’s newly opened art museum. The menu is compact, changing seasonally, and the ambience is magical, with outdoor seating in the Auberge d’Italie courtyard also available. Auberge d’Italie, Merchants Street (7979 0900)
54, Strait Street (2122 6777, www.palazzoprecavalletta.com)
Pastaus This small, casual restaurant specialises exclusively in fresh pasta dishes. From traditional Italian sauces like Bolognese, cacio e pepe and carbonara, to speciality and fusion options, head to the pasta bar to make your choice, and feel free to ask the staff for their insider tips. 123, Old Theatre Street (2702 3141)
Noni Located in a stylishly refurbished former jazz bar, the gorgeous Noni, headed by chef Jonathan Brincat, reinterprets traditional Maltese dishes, from fried rabbit to te fit-tazza (tea in a tumbler), and adds a touch of French cuisine hauteur, with exquisite results.
Rubino
211, Republic Street (2122 1441, noni.com.mt)
This former confectionery was established in 1906 and is named after its first owner, the Sicilian Vincenzo Rubino. Run by members of the Diacono culinary dynasty, the menu depends on what’s in season, but always includes a delicious selection of antipasti and dips, fresh fish and local meats.
Old Bakery’s Kitchen
53, Old Bakery Street (2122 4656, www.rubinomalta.com)
Located on the corner of Old Bakery Street, this eatery serves up pizzas, pastas and burgers, as well as a range of daily specials and desserts that include the delicious home-made tiramisu, in a warm and welcoming environment. Al fresco dining is also available if you’re lucky enough to grab a seat! 28A, South Street (7780 5312)
Sciacca Grill Sciacca Grill is a meat lover’s paradise, where a fixed menu doesn’t exist, and the service is simply stellar. Main course orders are taken at the counter where the top-quality array of cuts is displayed and described by the head waiter. Vegetarian dishes are also available. South Street (2123 7222, www.sciaccamalta.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 99
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DANIEL BORG
Trabuxu Bistro
Taproom
Sotto This Italian pizzeria is considered to be one of the best – and best-priced – on the island. The pizza menu is extensive, but the toppings are simple and wholesome, with the focus being on how well they work together atop the light, crispy base. Don’t skip the tasty tiramisu for dessert. 32, South Street (2122 0077, www.sottopizzeria.com)
Taproom This contemporary restaurant is a blend of vintage-barmeets-rustic-brasserie with cool, industrial detailing. Whether you’re after lunch, a late afternoon drink or expertly-prepared cocktails with dinner, it’s all possible here, and within a stylish setting. 53A, Old Theatre Street (2749 1316, www.taproomvalletta.com)
Trabuxu Bistro Husband-and-wife team Krista and Kris run Trabuxu Bistro with impeccable service and attention to detail. The warm décor, dim lighting and objets d’art make it an incredibly welcoming eatery, and the food is exquisite. The restaurant has a strict over-12 age policy. 8, 9, South Street (2122 0357, www.trabuxu.com.mt)
Zero Sei At this cosy trattoria run by an affable couple from Rome, you can expect excellent fare reminiscent of the Italian capital. The star here is pasta – we recommend the classic 100 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S
carbonara with egg, pork cheek and pecorino, or the cacio e pepe with pecorino and black pepper. 75, Old Theatre Street (2122 2010)
ORIENTAL
N Japanese Bistrot This tiny eatery is designed in an authentically Japanese style, using natural wood to create a relaxing space. The menu consists of delicious sharing dishes and salads, deep-fried items and main courses, prepared and served in a traditional method, and there’s an entire page devoted to sake. 92, Strait Street (2730 0781)
BARS
67 Kapitali This laid-back spot is a cross between an artisanal café and a craft beer bar, known for its incredible range of beers from around the world. Expect beer on draught from Malta, Australia, Belgium, Denmark and Italy, and up to 60 bottled options to boot. 67, Old Bakery Street (2738 0010)
Alchemy Wickedly inventive, high-end cocktails are the order of the day at Alchemy, presented by the talented and passionate mixologist Attila Felhősi and his team. Besides an exclusive bar area, there is also a private room available for more intimate gatherings. 93, 94, Strait Street (9933 2330, alchemyvalletta.com)
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Café Society
NIKI CARUANA
E AT & D R I N K
Camarata
Bridge Bar
Gugar – Hangout & Bar
Cru
This tiny, popular bar is located on one of Valletta’s bridges and lights up the lower part of St Ursula Street on a regular basis. Live jazz music is played on summer nights, and the clientele often spills out onto the cushion-covered steps outside.
As a wine bar, Cru puts its spotlight on underrated, affordable gems, along with hard-to-find classics from world-renowned wineries. This tiny oenophile hub also offers a tapas-style nibbles menu that combines quality, international delicacies with a local twist.
258, St Ursula Street (7947 4227)
16, St Lucia Street (7946 1576, www.cru.com.mt)
Café Society Café Society welcomes a vibrant crowd. The décor harks back to an age gone by with vaulted ceilings and vintage movies projected onto the wall, while the bar is wellstocked with spirits, a vast selection of beer, as well as unusual cocktails. 13, St John Street (2713 7491)
Gugar – Hangout & Bar Conceived by a group of friends who wanted to create a space where they could all get together, the bar has become the haunt of many who head here for a chat and a good drink. The atmosphere is casual and the food includes lots of vegetarian and vegan options. 89A, Republic Street (2703 2837)
Camarata Located in an area known locally as il-kamrata, this tastefully-decorated tavern serves a fine assortment of craft beers and malts, full-bodied reds and fresh white wines. It also offers excellent platters to accompany your drinks. 131, Merchants Street (7929 8417, www.camarata.com.mt)
Il-Pup This cosy, little gastropub is a great place to have a meal and a drink in the heart of the capital. Try the local craft beers or infused gins, or even a cup of artisanal coffee, and treat yourself to something off the tasty pub menu which features everything from burgers to salads. 60, Old Bakery Street (7906 7345) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 103
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BRIAN GRECH
JACOB SAMMUT
Kingsway
Legligin Wine Bar
Kennedy
Legligin Wine Bar
This vintage-themed bar in Strait Street offers an extensive selection of premium spirits, as well as platters, tapas, burgers, live entertainment and a frequent happy hour (check out their Facebook page for updates).
With a name that roughly translates to ‘guzzlers’, it is no wonder that this intimate and cosy bar offers a spectacular wine list and that its knowledgeable staff members are all well-versed in the wines on offer. Hungry? The tasting menu is highly recommended.
Strait Street (7904 9839)
119, St Lucia Street (2122 1699)
Kingsway Kingsway is a swanky cocktail bar and café that tends to attract the ‘in’ crowd, including business people, professionals and social media influencers. The cocktails are superb and snacks are light and scrumptious. 57, Republic Street (2099 5757)
La Bottega The lively La Bottega hosts the traditional Italian aperitivo – a pre-dinner drink to sip on while socialising, relaxing and eating some nibbles as dinner approaches – accompanied by live music. The bar offers a wide selection of beers, wines and spirits, and some fabulous cocktails. 200, Merchants Street (2703 9547)
The Little Red Door This hidden gem of a wine bar serves a wide range of local and foreign wines, including Bocelli, the wine produced by Italian tenor Andrea Bocelli’s family. Little Red is also renowned for its platters, with more than 20 cheeses and cold cuts available for a build-your-own charcuterie and cheese board. 28, St Dominic Street (7945 3438)
The Pub This old-school pub is rife with British navy memorabilia and photos of Oliver Reed when he was on the island filming ‘Gladiator’ – this was, sadly, the last place where he ever had a drink. Here, you’ll also find a wide selection of UK craft beers and whiskies. Seating is limited, but crowds congregate outside on warm evenings anyway. 136, Archbishop Street (7905 2522)
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Rumrunner
The Thirsty Lawyer
The Rootz Run by a married Italian couple, this traditional Italian osteria, wine and cocktail bar, which often features live music, offers a range of wines, cocktails and digestifs (including Italian grappa), as well as a tasty range of north Italian specialities, including certified hams, salamis and cheeses. 11, Strait Street (7703 4718)
Rumrunner Malta’s only rum bar offers rum lovers more than 20 different types of the tipple to choose from, as well as a variety of rum-based cocktails, from mojitos to tiki-style drinks. The bar also caters to non-rum fans, with wine, beer and other spirits available, and a tasty selection of nibbles. 69, St Lucia Street (2722 2196)
San Paolo Naufrago This cosy little bar, which has been around for ages and is incredibly popular with locals, is a great place to sip a glass of wine, beer or even a Maltese Spritz in a lively atmosphere. If you’re feeling a bit peckish, try out one of their top-notch pizzas – a cut above the average bar bites. 11, St Lucia Street (2701 3353)
StrEat Whisky & Bistro There are over 100 whiskies and 20 varieties of gin to choose from at this much-loved bar. Adjacent to the whisky bar is a bistro with a wonderful selection of
Yard 32
gourmet burgers. The venue also offers individualised whisky and wine tastings. Strait Street (2122 8347)
The Thirsty Lawyer Located in the heart of The Gut, once a notorious part of Strait Street in Valletta and now heaving with bars and restaurants brought to life by Valletta Boutique Living, The Thirsty Lawyer offers a medley of spaces. From fine food and master mixology to live music and entertainment, it’s one of the liveliest places in the capital. 97, 98, Strait Street (2776 1451, www.thethirstylawyer.com)
Trabuxu Wine Bar Trabuxu is housed within a 400-year-old vaulted cellar, making for an intimate retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city. Here you’ll find an excellent selection of local and international wines on offer, accompanied by delicious eats. 2, Strait Street (2122 3036, www.trabuxu.com.mt)
Yard 32 Known informally as ‘the gin and tapas bar’, this is the only bar in Malta that has 248 types of gin to choose from. We’d definitely recommend pairing your customised G&T (or your glass of home-made white sangria) with a few tapas from the display. 32, Strait Street (9993 6734, www.yard32.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 105
ALAN CARVILLE
E AT & D R I N K
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66 Saint Paul’s
Castille Hotel
66 Saint Paul’s
Castille Hotel
66 Saint Paul’s is set in a recently restored and modernised 17th-century palazzo. Facilities include a courtyard café, small meeting room, plunge pool and lounge on the rooftop, with stunning views of Valletta and the Three Cities, while the larger suites have traditional Maltese balconies or private sun terraces.
Housed within a 16th-century grand residence, this is a great-value option that places you close to everything that the capital has to offer. The hotel also hosts two charming restaurants, La Cave and De Robertis, offering guests a selection of local and foreign cuisines.
66, St Paul Street (2711 2185, www.66saintpaulsmalta.com)
British Suites British Suites consists of 24 rooms, some overlooking St Ursula Street, others with stunning views of Grand Harbour. Guests can dine at the Panorama restaurant or enjoy a tipple at the bar and lounge. A sun terrace provides plenty of photo opportunities. 40, Battery Street (2033 4851, thebritishsuites.com)
Casa Ellul This boutique hotel is set within a beautiful townhouse built around 1830 and lovingly restored and completely transformed by brothers Matthew and Andrew Ellul. It has nine suites, each featuring exquisite décor and beautiful antique pieces. Breakfast is served in the pretty courtyard on the ground floor. 81, Old Theatre Street (2122 4821, www.casaellul.com) 106 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S
Castille Square (2124 3677, www.hotelcastillemalta.com)
The Coleridge Named after the renowned English poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge, who lived in Old Bakery Street during his time in Malta, this accommodation offers tastefully designed suites which are fully equipped with five-star amenities. A varied breakfast that makes use of local and organic ingredients is served in the cellar-dining room. 89-92, Old Bakery Street (2010 5511, thecoleridgehotel.com)
De Vilhena De Vilhena offers its guests 22 modern rooms, each having a classical touch of elegance, reminiscent of Valletta’s past grandeur. Every morning, guests are treated to a generous selection of sweet and savoury options for breakfast. 55, Old Theatre Street (2124 2020, www.devilhena.com)
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Domus Zamittello
Palazzo Prince D’Orange
Domus Zamittello The main parts of this antique palazzo have been lovingly restored, and the boutique hotel now features a magnificent entrance leading to an open courtyard, a Baroque staircase and exceptional sala nobile and sala del conte reception rooms. The rest of the palazzo has been converted into 21 spacious, luxury bedrooms and suites. 7, Republic Street (2122 7700, www.domuszamittello.com)
Grand Hotel Excelsior This large, striking hotel sits just outside the capital and is one of the best five-star accommodation options on the island. The gorgeous sea views are a definite plus, as are the renowned spa and beauty centre, the hotel’s private beach, and its own 30-berth marina.
Grand Hotel Excelsior
Palais Le Brun Palais Le Brun is a boutique hotel within a restored 16thcentury Baroque palace. It comprises 28 luxury rooms, as well as a rooftop terrace with pool deck, a fitness centre and in-house restaurant. The hotel also has an annex available for private dining, confidential meetings or art exhibitions. 101, Old Bakery Street (2226 0300, www.palaislebrun.com)
Palazzo Consiglia
Great Siege Road, Floriana (2125 0520, www.excelsior.com.mt)
Located within a traditional townhouse, this boutique hotel offers 13 rooms, each decorated in a distinct style. The hotel also has a spa area with a jacuzzi and steam room, and a lovely roof terrace with spectacular views of Valletta and Grand Harbour.
La Falconeria
102, St Ursula Street (2124 4222, www.palazzoconsiglia.com)
The building in which La Falconeria is housed is unique – the front part is hundreds of years old and characterised by marble flooring and artistic finishes, while the back part was rebuilt in a modern style after being destroyed in World War II. Guests can also partake in delicious Mediterranean cuisine at the in-house restaurant L’Artiglio. 62, Melita Street (2247 6600, www.lafalconeria.com)
Palazzo Prince D’Orange This 17th-century Baroque palazzo has been divided into a number of luxury serviced apartments with beautifully restored, traditional features. On the lower level you’ll find a gym, sauna and spa, while upstairs, the rooftop terrace provides stunning views out to sea. 316, St Paul Street (9912 5200, www.palazzoprincemalta.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 107
DARREN AGIUS
SLE EP
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Rosselli AX Privilege
TONIO LOMBARDI
The Saint John
The Vincent
SU29 The Phoenicia Malta This elegant and historic hotel is Malta’s only member of global hospitality consortium Leading Hotels of the World. Its traditional Art Deco features are more pronounced than ever following its redesign, while the new infinity pool overlooking Marsamxett Harbour is simply stunning. The Mall, Floriana (2122 5241, www.phoeniciamalta.com)
Rosselli AX Privilege Located within the historic Casa Rosselli Massa, this five-star boutique hotel on Merchants Street has six designer rooms, each finished to high standards – and each centring on a unique historical detail – guaranteeing a memorable stay. 167, Merchants Street (2124 5245, www.rosselli.mt)
The rooms in this stylish boutique hotel vary, each having its own identity, such as the theatre room overlooking the courtyard and the lavish Presidential suite overlooking pretty St Ursula Steps. We also love the Maltese suite, with its charming, traditional balcony, and the luxury fitness studio. 29, St Ursula Steps (2124 2929, www.su29hotel.com)
Ursulino Valletta Ursulino combines five-star hotel standards with the warmth and personalised service of a family-run boutique B&B, including a scrumptious breakfast and an evening aperitivo. Apart from its beautifully decorated rooms and suites, the defining feature here is the fantastic roof terrace. 82A, St Ursula Street (2122 8024, www.ursulinovalletta.com)
The Vincent The Saint John The Saint John on Merchants Street is housed within an exquisite property that’s been around since at least 1870. Three of the back guest rooms enjoy superb views of Marsamxett Harbour, while a large terrace at fourth floor level provides a relaxing space for al fresco dining. 176, Merchants Street (2124 3243, www.thesaintjohnmalta.com) 108 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S
This grand boutique hotel has nine suites with evocative names assigned to each one, including Napoleone, Dolce Vita and Bordello. Each suite is fully equipped with several amenities and features a Maltese-style balcony with seating, an en suite shower room and an espresso machine. 84, Hospital Street (2124 0408, www.thevincenthotelmalta.com)
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St Julian’s There’s never a dull moment in the bright and animated town of St Julian’s. Its wide-ranging choice of eateries, pubs and clubs, and its international tone have people flocking here looking for a good time.
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tourist destination par excellence, the seaside town of St Julian’s was once a peaceful enclave, full of farmers working in the surrounding fields and fishermen down by the water’s edge. Colourful, traditional boats peppered the bay, as the community subsisted on the trades which had formed the fabric of the Mediterranean for centuries. That was a long time ago, however, and over the years, St Julian’s became the island’s entertainment mecca, filled with restaurants, bars, clubs and other places of leisure. Today, it is a magnet for pleasure seekers and party animals who are looking for a fun night out.
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The town itself is divided into four main areas – St Andrew’s, Ta’ Giorni, Tal-Ghoqod and Paceville – with the latter being the most raucous. As you drive into the town through Balluta, a neighbourhood named after the oak trees which shelter the pjazza, you’ll notice the eclectic mix of old and new architecture which frames the small bay. Balluta’s seafront views are breath-taking, and its promenade is dotted with outlets where one can enjoy a leisurely breakfast, lunch or dinner. Balluta’s most famous landmarks include historical gems such as the Gothic Revival Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, which has been rebuilt three times, and the elegant Art Nouveaustyle Balluta Buildings, which used to be the most prestigious address in Malta. Take a dip at the small beach at Balluta Bay to cool down on a hot day, or simply watch the sun set from its myriad seaside restaurants. Walk down the promenade towards Spinola Bay, and you’ll get a glimpse of St Julian’s fishing
village past, with its colourful fishing boats and old boathouses lining the shore. Stop and take a shot besides the LOVE monument by renowned Maltese architect Richard England. The word is inverted, but when the waters are still, you can see it spelled out in the reflection underneath. Up the road, you will find Portomaso, which forms the complex hosting Malta’s tallest building (so far), the Portomaso Business Tower. This complex has its own five-star marina which can berth more than 100 yachts, as well as a number of luxury shopping outlets, watering holes and restaurants. You can relax and party in lavish fashion here or head to Paceville, the island’s prime nightlife hotspot, with its irresistibly chaotic streets filled with clubs, bars and eateries. Further along, St George’s Bay is worth waking up early for, but stake your towel spot before the crowds descend, and, afterwards, head to one of the bars lining the bay for drinks as the sun sets.
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Balluta Buildings
VIEWINGMALTA.COM/GREGORY IRON
ST JULIAN’S
Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel (Balluta Church)
H E R I TA G E Balluta Buildings The elegant Art Nouveau-style Balluta Buildings, towering over Balluta Bay, used to be the most prestigious address in Malta. It is a monumental apartment block, listed on the National Inventory of the Cultural Property of the Maltese Islands. Its sculpted façade is adorned with repetitive angel motifs and elegant flying buttresses.
Spinola Bay VIEWINGMALTA.COM/JÜRGEN SCICLUNA
Balluta Bay
Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel (Balluta Church) The Gothic Revival Carmelite Church, which dates from the early 20th century, was built on the former structure, a Neo-Gothic church established in 1859. Over the years, it was rebuilt and enlarged to cater for the growing community of Balluta. Today, it remains the heart of Catholic activity in the parish. Balluta Bay
AT T R A C T I O N S Balluta Bay This popular area draws crowds for its café culture, bars and restaurants, which envelope the small, sandy beach. Balluta
Portomaso Marina Portomaso Marina forms part of the Portomaso residential complex. The five-star marina has space for 110 fully serviced berths, and its location – at the foot of the Portomaso steps, which is filled with restaurants and bars – is ideal for those stepping off their trip and heading for a night out on the town.
Spinola Bay Otherwise known as the spot where the LOVE monument stands tall, Spinola Bay has experienced a stark transformation over the decades, as it went from a quiet bay to one of the busiest areas on the island. Popular restaurants and food outlets line the picturesque bay, which comes alive with tradition during the parish’s annual religious feast each August.
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St George’s Bay
St George’s Bay Nightspots spill over into St George’s Bay – up the road from the party-centre of Paceville – making it heave with revellers up until the early hours of the morning. Bay Street, one of Malta’s most popular shopping centres, is also situated here, along with a gamut of clubs, eateries and bars, so you can be sure to find anything you need, whether for day or night.
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ST JULIAN’S
Ecco
LEISURE Bay Street Bay Street Shopping Complex has the longest shopping hours of all the malls in Malta (10am-10pm). It is home to a wide range of local and international retail and dining brands, and has a well-equipped entertainment centre on the fourth floor that offers laser tag, virtual reality video games and a play area for children. St George’s Bay (2138 4421, www.baystreet.com.mt)
Bay Street
Casino Malta This extensive 3,000sqm casino features 285 slot machines, two electronic roulette tables and 31 casino and poker tables, as well as a sports betting and bar area. Patrons can also try their luck at a variety of table games such as American roulette, Blackjack, Ultimate Texas Hold’em, Punto Banco and Casino Malta poker. Eden Place, St Augustine Street (2371 0555, www.casinomalta.com.mt)
Cleland & Souchet The selection of luxury gifts at Cleland & Souchet, ranging from wines, champagnes, spirits, cigars and fine foods to silverware, gorgeous accessories and contemporary home décor, is vast and presented in a modern setting. The shop is also the site of the first C&S Wine Café outlet. Block 14, Level 0, Portomaso (2138 9898, www.clelandsouchet.com)
Club Havana One of the island’s foremost R&B clubs and a firm Paceville resident, Club Havana, spread over several floors with six bars, spacious dancefloors and room for 3,000 people, attracts large crowds throughout the weekend. St George’s Road (2137 4500)
Cynergi Health & Fitness Club One of Malta’s top health and fitness clubs is spread over 2,000sqm; there’s a dedicated cardiogym, a hammer strength plate-loaded zone, and a free-weights zone, while the functional training zone includes plyometrics boxes, kettlebells, Bosu, medicine balls and TRX suspension trainers. Cynergi also offers members several group exercise classes. St Augustine Street (2371 0700, www.cynergi.com.mt)
Dragonara Casino Housed within a stunning property built in 1870 for a Maltese marquis is the Dragonara Casino, boasting over 300 slot machines (including poker, auto roulette and video slots) and table games (including roulette, Blackjack and Russian poker). Daily poker tournaments and promotions are also organised. Dragonara Palace, Dragonara Road (2092 1000, www.dragonaracasino.com)
Ecco Stocking shoes for men, women and children, as well as accessories such as handbags, belts and a full range of shoe care products, this international brand is sought after for its supreme level of comfort. St Julian’s Street, San Gwann (2137 8433, mt.ecco.com). Also across Malta
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Portomaso Casino
Eden SuperBowl DARYL CAUCHI
Eden Cinemas Eden Cinemas is Malta’s largest cinema complex, with a choice of Hollywood releases, shown in English, and regular screenings of alternative movies. The first screening starts at around 2pm on weekdays and 11am at the weekend. Tickets may be purchased online or from the ticket booth. St Augustine Street (2371 0400, www.edencinemas.com.mt)
The Playground
Native Bar Malta
The Playground
Latin bar Native attracts crowds every night for its salsa music and dancing. During the day, proceedings are a bit more sedate – but never boring – with varied background music and live sports screenings served up with drinks from the well stocked bar.
The Playground is one of the island’s more ‘underground’ venues, with a focus on house, techno and everything in between. It offers a carefree vibe that allows patrons to party hard away from the hustle and bustle typically experienced in the heart of Paceville.
St Augustine Street (2371 0777, www.edensuperbowl.com)
Paceville Main Staircase (2138 0635, www.nativemalta.com)
Dragonara Road (9945 8797)
Level 22
Nordic Bar
Eden SuperBowl The Eden SuperBowl offers the highest standard of bowling available locally. It has a wellstocked bar, e-sports centre, American pool and arcade games area. For a fun outing, check out Disco Bowling, which is held every Friday night.
Located at the very top of the Portomaso Tower, Level 22 is a club famed for its champagne and vodka buckets, and offers superb views of the island at night and plush surroundings, as well as outdoor terraces where you can enjoy the night under the stars. Level 22, Portomaso (2310 2222, www.22.com.mt)
The popular Nordic Bar hosts DJs specialising in old school rock ‘n’ roll, R&B, hip-hop and commercial hits, and possessing a wide knowledge of Nordic classic tunes. Nordic-style cocktails are also available, ensuring many Scandinavian expats feel right at home. St Rita Street, Paceville (9982 1060)
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Portomaso Casino This top-notch casino forms part of the luxurious Portomaso complex, and offers a wide variety of slot machines, card and table games, including craps, which is exclusive to this casino. The minimum entry age is 18 for foreigners and 25 for Maltese nationals. Portomaso (2138 3777, www.portomasocasino.com)
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ST JULIAN’S
E AT & D R I N K
Fat Louie’s
Manouche Craft Bakery & Bistro
AMERICAN
Fat Louie’s
CAFÉS
Crudo
Run by the Diacono brothers, Fat Louie’s offers cool twists on local fare, and tender and succulent meat smoked in a way that nobody else does on the island. It is the perfect place to chow down on a bone marrow burger or a 16hour smoked brisket, washed down with boutique gins, or another bevvie from its well stocked bar.
Set in the heart of beautiful Balluta Bay, Crudo is a coffee shop and wine bar specialising in Italian cuisine. The café serves fresh coffee, focaccias, salads and platters for breakfast and lunch, but also offers a fun atmosphere with a variety of wine to choose from, and music in the evenings.
Paceville Street (2745 4582, www.fatlouies.com.mt)
25, Main Street, Balluta Bay (9914 0837)
Hugo’s Burger Bar
Led by renowned local chef Sean Gravina, Crust fuses food creations from the bakery, deli and bar bite disciplines, whether for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Carefully curated interiors, artwork and music perfectly complement fine breakfasts, freshly baked pastries, creatively crafted sandwiches, home-made pies, salads, burgers and a plethora of vegetarian and healthy offerings.
There’s something to satisfy even the heartiest of appetites at Hugo’s Burger Bar. Outfitted in a classic rockabilly diner style with a modern twist, this eatery offers a vast selection of delicious patties, hand-pressed and made with pure Angus beef. Vegetarian and halal options are also available. St George’s Road (2137 8800, www.hugosburgerbar.com)
Shoreditch Mouth-watering meals, delicious pancakes and innovative cooking techniques have earned this eatery – which draws inspiration from one of London’s foremost hipster districts – many fans in a short span of time. The Shoreditch burger, in particular, is a firm favourite, although you’d do well to look out for the specials blackboard too, which changes every week. 43, Wilga Street (2138 6748)
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Crust
Mensija Street (9938 0976)
Manouche Craft Bakery & Bistro Manouche is a craft bakery and bistro which celebrates the finesse of classic French cooking, combined with local ingredients and culinary traditions. Breakfast is a feast, with pancakes, croissants and cooked options available, while the lunch and dinner menu includes moules marinière and deep-fried camembert. Their home-made chocolates are legendary. Mikiel Ang Borg Street (2704 1478, www.manouche.com.mt)
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ST JULIAN’S
E AT & D R I N K
LUKE AZZOPARDI
BRIAN GRECH
Nori at The Villa
Zest
Maltese Mama
One Portomaso
Zest
One Portomaso is a beautifully designed, all-day, indooroutdoor food establishment, also offering an intriguing drinks list. Items on the wide-ranging menu include beef wellington and a chicken and goat’s cheese burger. Parking is available at the Portomaso car park.
Recently renovated, Zest takes fusion fare to a higher level. Its classy and complex dishes, such as the oxtail and chevre croquette, steamed sea bass in a ginger, and lemongrass-scented yellow curry are a real treat. Vegetarian and vegan options are also available.
Portomaso (2137 1238, www.themarinarestaurants.com)
25, St George’s Road (2138 7600, www.zestflavours.com)
FUSION
MALTESE
Nori at The Villa
Maltese Mama
Incredible cocktails made by award-winning bartenders, delicious Asian street food and one of the most picturesque backdrops on the island will make your evening here one to remember. And their bao dumplings, such as cheeseburger gyozas, carbonara dumplings – made with guanciale – and Chinese sausage hot dog baos cannot be found anywhere else on the island.
If you’re up for something truly traditional, check out Maltese Mama’s excellent rabbit, cooked either in a stew or fried in typical Maltese fashion, or flavoursome bragjoli (beef olives). You could also opt for fresh fish, though do keep an eye out for the specials board. Al fresco dining is an option. 19/2, Paceville Avenue (2737 7024)
39, The Villa, Main Street, Balluta Bay (2311 2392, www.thevilla.com.mt) MEDITERRANEAN
Wagamama The famous franchise, inspired by the fast-paced Japanese ramen bars, is renowned for its tasty teppanyaki, donburi and curries, while the fresh juices and more-ish desserts will satisfy those with a bit of a sweet tooth. St George’s Road (2010 6969, www.wagamama.com.mt)
The Avenue This eatery is one of the most popular casual restaurants on the island. The food is hearty, portions are large and the menu is enormous. The gondola, a closed pizza with honey and blue cheese, and the spaghetti buongustaia, with meat sauce, mushrooms and cream, are firm favourites – but the restaurant’s signature dish remains the beef wellington. Gort Street (2135 1753, www.theavenuemalta.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 119
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E AT & D R I N K
Barracuda Restaurant
Bianco’s
STEVEN ROONEY
SEAN MALLIA
Caviar & Bull
Barracuda Restaurant
Caviar & Bull
One of the stalwarts of Malta’s fine dining scene, Barracuda combines heritage, ambience and food in a way that’s hard to match locally. The menu features a selection of top-quality meat, fish and shellfish options: the daily catch is on display and may be grilled, steamed or baked al cartoccio, while the seafood platter consists of a selection of fresh line-caught fish and shellfish.
Chef patron Marvin Gauci has overseen Caviar & Bull’s refined and diverse menu, which offers an original fusion of high-quality and experimental cuisines with a nod towards molecular gastronomy, and a mix of local and international flavours. Thrill your taste buds with Wagyu beef carpaccio or the restaurant’s signature black fried calamari, or try one of the two degustation menus.
194, 195, Main Street (2133 1817, www.barracudarestaurant.com)
Corinthia Hotel St George’s Bay, St George’s Bay (2759 3301, caviarandbull.com)
Bianco’s
Dolce Vita
Open Monday to Sunday till late, the different areas of this restaurant cater for diverse experiences. Enjoy your meal in the main area, then retire to the sophisticated sofas in the chill-out space towards the back for a bottle of wine from an extensive list. Bianco’s sweet platter, consisting of crȇpes, Nutella, mixed nuts and fresh fruit, is also immensely popular.
Offering stunning views of Spinola Bay, Dolce Vita has established a reputation for good, unpretentious food, exactly like nonna made it. Fish is a favourite: try the mixed fish and seafood to start with, and the catch of the day for mains.
St George’s Road (2135 9865, www.biancos.info)
Carob Tree Carob Tree brings together a curated selection of eateries, offering guests different cuisines in the heart of St Julian’s, including Indian, courtesy of Tuk Tuk; meat specialities, care of Brass & Knuckle; and Oriental, served up by Genki. Cocktails, by the mixologists at Medasia Bar, will make sure you don’t go thirsty. Mikiel Ang Borg Street (9947 0460, www.carobtree.com.mt) 120 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S
159, St George’s Road (2138 8600, www.dolcevita.com.mt)
I Monelli For an authentic Sicilian culinary experience, head down to I Monelli, where the talented chefs deliver the real deal. The delicious parmiggiana and freshly made vegetablebased dishes are on display – just take your pick. The pièce de resistance of the menu, however, is the Neapolitan pizza, cooked in a wood-fired oven. 63A, Wilga Street (2136 0036, www.imonellifoodexperience.com)
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ST JULIAN’S
JEAN-PAUL CARUANA
E AT & D R I N K
Taro at The Villa
Two Buoys
Il Pirata Brothers Claudio and Alfredo Spiteri Debarro have succeeded in making a name for themselves in a short period of time. Although their pizzas, cooked in a woodfired oven, and their pasta dishes are in high demand, we just can’t get enough of the delicious tagliata, a carnivore’s dream. 41, Paceville Avenue (2137 5827, www.ilpiratamalta.com). Also Mellieha Bay
Impasta This pasta bar brings a taste of la bella Italia to Malta’s shores, with its array of flour-based specialities and focus on fresh ingredients. Whether your thing is spaghetti, fettuccine or bucatini, you can be guaranteed that they will be cooked to perfection – al dente, as they’re meant to be. 8, Dobbie Street (7952 7586, www.impasta.bar)
Piccolo Padre Open since 1990, this family-run restaurant is a local institution. Set in an 18th-century villa on the seafront, overlooking Spinola and Balluta Bays, it is popular for its delicious pizzas which are cooked in a traditional woodburning oven. You can sit on the beautiful terrace, or within the charming interior. 195, Main Street, Balluta Bay (2134 4875, www.piccolopadre.com)
Taro at The Villa Inspired by the bold, fragrant essence of Mediterranean gastronomy, Taro brings a distinguished quality to each culinary offering. The award-winning kitchen brigade, led by executive head chef Adrian Buttigieg, creates delectable dishes such as venison loin and lamb merguez, with a dessert menu you won’t be able to get enough of – the banana souffle is a highlight! 39, The Villa, Main Street, Balluta Bay (2311 2273, www.thevilla.com.mt/taro)
Two Buoys Bringing Melbourne to these shores, chefs Nicky Deguara and Mark Miller have created a menu which satisfies anyone’s cravings, while also offering vegan and vegetarian items. The Footscray fritters, made of sweetcorn and zucchini, are a must, as is the seafood platter. 106, Spinola Road (2122 2221, www.two-buoys-bistro.com)
U Bistrot Recently refurbished, U Bistrot is bound to be your regular haunt once you’ve savoured the standout breakfast, freshly made lunches and tasty dinner dishes. For the most important meal of the day, we recommend the popular eggs Benedict (with smoked salmon or ham), or Americanstyle pancakes with maple syrup or fruit jam. Balluta Bay (2311 2361, www.ubistrot.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 121
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E AT & D R I N K
MARK ANTHONY BUGEJA
Zeri’s
Okurama Japanese Cuisine
Wigi’s This family-run restaurant may be small, but it’s got a big foodie heart. The menu changes daily according to what the market has to offer, with every dish making use of great-quality ingredients – from fresh, local gbejniet (cheeselets) and herbs from Gozo to mussels from Scotland, meat from Harmony Farm in Ireland and USDA beef rib-eye. Main Street (2137 7504, www.wigiskitchen.com)
Zeri’s With stunning views of Portomaso Marina, diners at Zeri’s can expect a feast for all the senses. The restaurant shows its mettle in the fish and seafood dishes on the menu, while the veal on the bone is also highly recommended. Finish off on a high note with the chocolate fondant. Portomaso (2135 9559, www.zerisrestaurant.com)
ORIENTAL
Blue Elephant This award-winning Thai restaurant, situated within Hilton Malta, is gorgeously decked out with huts, waterfalls and lush greenery – a delightful setting for a lavish meal. Sip a refreshing Mai Tai while enjoying the glorious marina views, before sampling top-notch Thai dishes such as the fiery tom yam koong soup, roasted duck curry and sweet and sour emerald chicken. Hilton Malta, Portomaso (2138 3383, www.blueelephant.com/malta)
Club Sushi You know you’ve struck Asian food gold when the place is packed with Japanese and Korean patrons. This is one 122 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S
of the very few places on the island that serves traditional Korean specialities, such as beef bulgogi, cooked in a Korean marinade with mushrooms and onions, as well as seafood toppoki (spicy Korean rice cakes). The sushi is also first class. Ball Street (2733 1555, clubsushimalta.com)
KuYa Asian Pub The story begins with a food truck: upon their return to Malta following a stint in the Philippines, brothers Luke and Gabriel Ferris decided to launch KuYa, dedicated to authentic Asian dishes, and soon graduated to a permanent venue in St Julian’s. One of the most popular dishes is the bang bang chicken, but make sure you try the mouth-watering kale fries too. Ross Street (2713 6517)
Japanese Restaurant Madoka Madoka is a Japanese restaurant owned by a Japanese chef, and it is one of the very few places on the island where you can savour genuine specialities, such as the Japanese pancake, okonomiyaki, served with a variety of meat and seafood toppings, or the lotus root tempura. 20, St George’s Street (2701 1440)
Okurama Japanese Cuisine The closest thing you will get to an Asian all-you-can-eat, Okurama introduced an innovative dining concept in the Maltese culinary scene when it opened a few years ago: a buffet option which allows you to order and sample as many varieties of nigiri, maki and sashimi as you please for a fixed price. The restaurant serves Asian and fusion dishes too. 9, Paceville Street (2781 1888, www.okurama.com.mt)
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ST JULIAN’S
E AT & D R I N K
Jah Ruulz
The Thirsty Barber
Tokyo Fried House
Hugo’s Terrace
As the name implies, Tokyo Fried House specialises in sinful Japanese fare which is finger-licking amazing. The addictive octopus balls, known as takoyaki, are found here, while you can also experience the ever-popular Japanese barbecue. Portions are quite substantial so go hungry. 29, Ball Street (2711 0760)
Perched right on the edge of St George’s Bay, Hugo’s Terrace, loved for its bold cocktails, is the flagship venue of the Hugo’s brand. Its stylish interiors – a mix of high and low tables, with lounge areas for group events – feature two fully stocked bars and a dancefloor. Head upstairs to The Rooftop for views over the bay.
Zen Japanese Sushi Bar & Teppanyaki
St George’s Road (2137 6767, www.hugosterrace.com)
Undeniably one of the most authentic Japanese restaurants on the island, Zen is the real deal. It serves the freshest sushi, and the skill with which the teppanyaki chef prepares each dish is second to none. Try the miso marinated black cod Nobu style, or tempura udon (Japanese thick noodle soup) served with prawn and vegetable tempura, and down it all with some sake.
Open from 10am till very late, Jah Ruulz is a reggae chill-out bar which offers vegan and vegetarian cooking, knock-out cocktails and drinks, as well as a great vibe. Sit on the steps outside during the summer months and enjoy a refreshing drink along with live music when available.
Portomaso (2138 6500, www.themarinarestaurants.com)
Jah Ruulz
7, St Joseph Street (7907 9007)
The Thirsty Barber BARS
City of London One of Malta’s oldest bars, City of London was founded at the outbreak of the Great War in 1914. The bar has been in the safe hands of the Borg family ever since, and 2019 marks its 105th anniversary. The outdoor terrace is particularly popular in summer and on balmy evenings, but its small, cosy interior is perfect for those stormy nights. Main Street (2133 1706)
Dubliners Irish Pub If it’s a warm Irish welcome you’re looking for, Dubliners Irish Pub is a safe bet. Fish and chips, lamb shanks and, of course, beef and Guinness stew are perennial favourites. Wash it all down with a brew – Guinness perhaps? – for a taste of the emerald isle.
Step back in time to the 1920s with The Thirsty Barber, Malta’s first prohibition-style bar. The attention to detail, from the décor to the ingredients used in the drinks, is undeniable. The cocktails (starting from €6.50) are some of the most original on the island and are inspired by the speakeasies which characterised the era. Ball Street (7944 0909, www.thethirstybarber.com)
Tiffany This boutique bar, offering over 300 wines, 50 champagnes, rare whiskies, cognacs, ports and sherries, impresses with its professional sommelier service and sumptuous interiors. Nibbles – such as dips and platters – can also be ordered, and you can even pick out a cigar to finish off your evening in style. Portomaso (9961 0163)
Gorg Borg Olivier Street (2136 7106, www.irishpubmalta.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 125
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Hilton Malta
SIMONE FLORENA / ROBERTO MANGO
SLEEP
The George Hotel
Boho Hostel This bohemian hostel, located within a re-purposed villa, offers excellent value for money. Just a 10-minute walk away from the centre of town and boasting a large garden, Boho Hostel has four dorm rooms, each sleeping six guests and overlooking the garden, and one private room with a king-sized bed and en suite bathroom, which is wheelchair accessible. Villa Cycas, Dun Guzeppi Xerri Street (2765 6008, www.bohohostel.com)
Corinthia Hotel St George’s Bay & Marina Hotel Corinthia Beach Resort Boasting lovely sea views, these two hotels share amenities, but offer a five- or four-star accommodation, respectively. Make the most of the hotels’ eight restaurants and bars, three swimming pools and a shallow outdoor children’s pool with large sun decks and loungers, on-site water sports and diving centres, and direct access to a rocky beach with a sandy volleyball court. St George’s Bay (2137 4114, www.corinthia.com)
The George Hotel
Hilton Malta Kick back in the stylishly decorated rooms, all 413 of which are bursting with Mediterranean flair, while the executive rooms and suites also offer access to the Executive Lounge. Take a rejuvenating dip in one of the hotel’s four outdoor pools and enjoy al fresco dining with sea views. Among its many facilities are the Myoka Spa and the fully equipped LivingWell fitness centre. Portomaso (2138 3383, www.malta.hilton.com)
Holiday Inn Express With its colourful and angular balconies, the Holiday Inn Express features stylishly designed guest rooms, spread over eight floors, and offers a choice of bedding and pillows for optimal comfort, free Wi-Fi, complimentary hot drinks and a smart TV. Business centre facilities are available from the hotel’s lobby lounge. St Augustine Street (2379 5000, www.holidayinnexpress.com/malta)
Hostel Malti
The George Hotel’s tranquil ambience and fresh décor make it a popular choice for both business and leisure stays. Each of the 112 rooms – ranging from penthouse suites to self-catering studios – is bright and spacious, boasts an eco-friendly design, and comes with complimentary Wi-Fi access.
Hostel Malti is a laid-back hideaway located in Ta’ Giorni, with four comfortable dorms that sleep up to 32 people, as well as two private twin rooms and two double en suite rooms. Guests can avail themselves of the outdoor barbecue area and jacuzzi, as well as take part in organised group trips to Gozo and Comino during summer.
Paceville Avenue (2011 1000, www.thegeorgemalta.com)
109, Birkirkara Hill, Ta’ Giorni (2730 2758, www.hostelmalti.com)
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SLE EP
BRIAN GRECH
Jules Suites
Hotel Juliani Hotel Valentina
Hotel Juliani
Inhawi Hostel
Just reopened after an extensive refurbishment, Hotel Juliani is memorable for its stylish décor, friendly staff, personalised service and central, seaside location. It has 47 rooms, some of which enjoy unobstructed sea views of picturesque Spinola Bay right opposite. The fitness centre will get you moving, though you can also get some R&R by the luxuriously finished rooftop pool.
There are 19 rooms with 132 beds in total at Inhawi Hostel, ranging from four-person bedrooms to 12-bed dorms, mixed or female-only, at this hip hostel overlooking Balluta Bay. The peaceful pool and garden area is the perfect place to kick back, worship the sun and get to know other travellers.
25, St George’s Road (2138 8000, www.hoteljuliani.com)
Hotel Valentina Situated right in the centre of the island’s nightlife hub and surrounded by bars, restaurants and casinos, the family-run Hotel Valentina offers a homely feel in a contemporary setting. All 94 rooms are tastefully designed and fully equipped with the latest mod cons, including free Wi-Fi. Dobbie Street (2138 2232, www.hotelvalentina.com)
Hugo’s Boutique Hotel
Balluta Valley (2138 2554, www.inhawi.com)
InterContinental Malta InterContinental Malta is the definition of luxury and all 481 bedrooms are elegantly furnished. Located on the upper floors are the stunning Highline suites, whose guests can avail themselves of the Club InterContinental Lounge and access to the exclusive Skybeach bar and restaurant. St George’s Bay (2137 7600, www.malta.intercontinental.com)
Jules Suites
Also located at the very heart of Paceville, Hugo’s Boutique Hotel is Malta’s first high-tech hotel, with 40 individually designed rooms and suites spread over eight floors. Each room is equipped with a room management system that allows you to control your surroundings with in-room tablets, as well as free Wi-Fi.
This smartly finished accommodation option is spread on four floors with four apartments on each level, apart from the top level which has two larger-sized suites. The Deluxe suites feature a well-sized balcony, and all suites have a fully equipped kitchenette. Continental breakfast is served on the ground level, while outdoor dining is offered on the back terrace.
St George’s Road (2016 2420, www.hugoshotels.com)
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WESTIN MALTA
Marco Polo Hostel
The Westin Dragonara Resort Malta Marriott Hotel & Spa
Malta Marriott Hotel & Spa
Radisson Blu Resort St Julian’s
Due to open in October 2019, following a €30 million investment, the contemporary designed hotel will have 301 rooms — including 25 club rooms, 29 suites and a 150sqm Presidential suite with views of the iconic Balluta Bay – as well as a variety of restaurants and bars, indoor and outdoor pools, a fully equipped spa and fitness centre, and dedicated conference facilities.
This hotel enjoys a fantastic location – close enough to the hub of the town for convenience, but distant enough to enjoy sheer tranquillity, guaranteeing a restful holiday for guests. It features 252 rooms and suites with free WiFi, a well-being salon, gym, sauna, massage room and hairdressing salon, as well as an indoor heated pool and an outdoor pool complex.
39, Main Street, Balluta Bay (2311 0000, www.maltamarriott.com)
St George’s Bay (2137 4894, www.radissonblu.com/stjuliansresort-malta)
Marco Polo Hostel
The Westin Dragonara Resort
Marco Polo is a brand new 114-bed hostel offering backpackers and travellers the perfect base to discover all that Malta has to offer. Close to beaches, nightlife, restaurants and bus stops, it’s easy to get out and explore. Or, you can spend the day relaxing on the large rooftop terrace drinking a mojito in the glorious sunshine.
Located along the promenade leading from St George’s Bay to Paceville is the elegant Westin Dragonara Resort. Sea waves lap against the hotel’s Blue Flag private beach, and a stunning view of the hotel’s lidos and open sea can be enjoyed from most rooms. Guest rooms and suites are spacious, bright and comfortable, while the range of restaurants and bars is extensive.
Ross Street (2700 1430)
Dragonara Road (2138 1000, www.westinmalta.com) 130 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S
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If you’re keen to explore the historical and architectural aspects of Malta, the Three Cities should be top of your list. They are also picturesque, with photo opportunities around every corner, particularly following recent renovation projects that have totally transformed this part of the islands.
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nown collectively as Cottonera in honour of Grandmaster Cottoner, who built their inland defences, the Three Cities are Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua (also referred to in Maltese as Birgu, Isla and Bormla respectively).
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Start your tour at Dock 1 in Cospicua – which you can reach on foot or by boat, by hopping onto the ferry from Valletta (www.vallettaferryservice.com). From here, a modern walkway connects the scenic promenade between Senglea, Cospicua and Vittoriosa. Cross the pedestrian bridge across Dockyard Creek at the mouth of the dock to reach Senglea via the Senglea Waterfront. Alternatively, Dock 1 will lead you directly to the Vittoriosa Waterfront, which is now a picturesque port of call for countless yachts and super yachts, as well as a lovely spot for lunch or dinner. With majestic Fort St Angelo at its tip, Vittoriosa has been described as the ‘cradle of Maltese history’ and, after years of restoration, it is now open to the public and well worth a visit – it will give you the chance to see the bastions up close.
THE THREE CITIES & AROUND
If you prefer natural sites to man-made ones, it is easy to reach Wied iz-Zurrieq, one of the most scenic spots in Malta. To appreciate its sheer beauty, hop onto a boat to visit the picturesque Blue Grotto.
Chosen by the Order of the Knights of St John as their first seat of power upon their arrival in Malta in 1530, Vittoriosa flourished with the erection of splendid palaces and public buildings. However, it suffered significant damage during the Great Siege of 1565 and later during World War II, though several grand edifices still stand today. Highlights for you to explore today include the St Lawrence Church (designed by Malta’s most prominent Baroque architect, Lorenzo Gafà), the Inquisitor’s Palace, the Bishop’s Palace and the charming Collachio.
Finally, as the sea is a major draw of this part of Malta, you should not miss a visit to the fishing village of Marsaxlokk, which is particularly well-known for its Sunday morning fish market and its delightful promenade replete with (mainly) fish restaurants and fishermen tending their nets, overlooking the idyllic bay and its traditional, colourful boats, and Marsascala, renowned for its range of fish and seafood restaurants.
Once you’ve enjoyed Vittoriosa, move onto Senglea, which also played an important role in the Great Siege of 1565 and remained unconquered, earning the title Civitas Invicta (Unconquered City) from Grandmaster Jean de la Valette. We recommend a walk to Gardjola Gardens, which enjoy spectacular views of Valletta. They were planned in 1551 by Grandmaster de la Sengle and owe their name to the sentry box – gardjola – which juts out onto the sea. You could then discover the gems within the Our Lady of Victories 4 Basilica, followed by an amble along the Senglea Waterfront. E
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Fort St Angelo VIEWINGMALTA.COM
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Fort Rinella
HERITAGE MALTA
Hagar Qim Temple Hal-Saflieni Hypogeum
H E R I TA G E Collegiate Church of the Immaculate Conception This Roman Catholic church in Cospicua was built in the early 1700s and was elevated to the status of collegiate church in 1822. It has an imposing façade with restrained décor, while the star oeuvre d’art is the recently-restored titular statue of the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary, which is largely clad in silver. 65, Gendus Street, Cospicua (2182 8413, www.cospicuaparish.org.mt)
Fort Rinella As one of four coastal batteries built by the British in the late 19th century, Fort Rinella is today still home to an Armstrong 100-tonne gun. Regular guided tours at the fort include a historical re-enactment, a swordsmanship display and a film. Free audio guides are available in many languages. St Rocco Road, Kalkara (2180 9713, www.fortrinella.com)
Fort St Angelo
Hagar Qim Temple
Recently reopened to the public, Fort St Angelo has been strategically important in times of war throughout Malta’s history, particularly for the Knights of St John during the Great Siege of 1565. Apart from its architectural gems, the fort today also includes an interpretation centre and a museum shop.
Pre-dating Stonehenge in England and the Pyramids of Egypt, this 5,000-year-old megalithic temple is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its location is equally spectacular, with the neighbouring temple site of Mnajdra, the panoramic sea-view beyond the islet of Filfla, and the surrounding typically Mediterranean garigue landscape.
Vittoriosa Waterfront (2540 1800, www.heritagemalta.org)
Hagar Qim Street, Qrendi (2142 4231, www.heritagemalta.org)
Ghar Dalam
Hal-Saflieni Hypogeum
This prehistoric site on the outskirts of Birzebbuga contains the earliest evidence of human settlement in Malta, as well as the remains of Ice Age animals in its lowermost layers that are more than 500,000 years old. The site includes a cave, a Victorian-style exhibition and a richly-planted garden.
Another UNESCO World Heritage site, Hal-Saflieni Hypogeum is the only underground temple and burial place of its kind in the world. Consisting of interconnecting rockcut chambers set on three distinct levels, the complex includes remains dating back to around 4,000 BC. Visitors can also enjoy an informative on-site audio-visual show.
Ghar Dalam Road, Birzebbuga (2165 7419, www.heritagemalta.org)
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Burial Street, Paola (2180 5017, www.heritagemalta.org)
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THE THREE CITIES & AROUND
Malta Maritime Museum
Malta At War Museum
Mnajdra Temple
Inquisitor’s Palace
Malta Maritime Museum
As one of the last in the world and the only one open to the public, the Inquisitor’s Palace in Vittoriosa predates the arrival of the Knights of St John in Malta. Serving as the official residence of many high-ranking individuals, the building showcases Malta’s intriguing history through the ages.
Housed within a former British Forces’ naval bakery, this museum charts Malta’s maritime history and lore within a Mediterranean context. Apart from a plethora of historical nautical finds on display, there is also a one-of-a-kind 18th-century square-rigged ship model and a collection of full-size traditional boats.
Main Gate Street, Vittoriosa (2182 7006, www.heritagemalta.org)
Malta At War Museum Highlighting Malta’s military history and its endurance during World War II, the Malta At War Museum is set within 18th-century military barracks that were used as a wartime police station. Audio guides and guided tours are available to help visitors explore the extensive air-raid shelters and exhibited war memorabilia. Couvre Porte, Vittoriosa (2189 6617, www.maltaatwarmuseum.com)
Vittoriosa Waterfront, Vittoriosa (2166 0052, www.heritagemalta.org)
Mnajdra Temple Just 500m away from the Hagar Qim Temple is Mnajdra, an equally fascinating megalithic temple and UNESCO World Heritage site. Consisting of three structures, the oldest dates back to 3,6003,200 BC. Mnajdra also shares a visitor centre with Hagar Qim and is one of the most intact of the prehistoric temples anywhere in the Mediterranean region. Hagar Qim Street, Qrendi (2142 4231, www.heritagemalta.org)
Our Lady of Victories Basilica Built in 1580 and elevated to the rank of basilica by Pope Benedict XV in 1921, Senglea’s parish church houses the only crowned titular statue in Malta and the statue of Kristu Redentur (Christ the Redeemer), which is believed to have healing powers. It is named in honour of Malta’s Great Siege victory. Pope Benedict XV Square, Senglea (2182 7203)
St Lawrence Church St Lawrence Church was the conventual church of the Order of St John between 1530 and 1571, before St John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta was built. The present church was erected between 1681 and 1697, and is a stunning example of RomanBaroque architecture. 91, St Lawrence Street, Vittoriosa (2182 7057)
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Inquisitor’s Palace
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Tarxien Temples
Esplora
St Lawrence Church Museum Next door to St Lawrence Church, within a 16th-century former chapel, is a museum that contains artefacts from Vittoriosa throughout the ages, including some religious items used by the Knights of St John. The collection also features a hat and a sword that belonged to Grandmaster Jean de la Valette. 91, St Lawrence Street, Vittoriosa (2182 7057)
Tarxien Temples These Neolithic temples were constructed between 3,600 and 2,500 BC, and feature intricate decorative stone carvings and relief sculptures. Visitors can make use of the Tarxien Temples app, which is available in six languages and features an audio guide. The awe-inspiring Tarxien Temples are a UNESCO World Heritage site. Neolithic Temples Street, Tarxien (2169 5578, www.heritagemalta.org)
DARRENAGIUS.COM
Blue Grotto
AT T R A C T I O N S Blue Grotto The Blue Grotto is a caves complex on the south coast of Malta, named by a visiting British soldier after the clear, bright blue waters found there. Apart from the massive main arch, visitors can also marvel at the cave walls as they reflect the colours of the underwater flora. Boats leave regularly from here and offer the best means to explore the unique beauty of the area. Wied iz-Zurrieq, L/O Qrendi (2164 0058, www.bluegrottomalta.com.mt)
The Collachio Soon after their arrival in Malta, the Knights of St John designated an exclusive area within Vittoriosa as their Collachio – a charming maze of winding streets full of Baroque gems. They erected several buildings and monuments within it, including their auberges, a state-ofthe-art hospital, tall townhouses and grand palaces, many of which still stand today. South of Hilda Tabone Street, Vittoriosa
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Dock 1 Formerly part of Malta Dry Docks, Dock 1 is the smallest of six docks and was constructed before the arrival of the Knights of St John in Malta, who selected the creek as the home of their armada. It was later developed further by the British Navy. Today, following an extensive restoration project, it is a bucolic walkway that connects the Three Cities. Cospicua
Esplora This family-friendly science centre aims to cultivate scientific curiosity and creativity by encouraging questioning, investigation and discovery. Suitable for all ages, the activity centre includes an impressive Planetarium, with live, presenter-led visualisations of our planet and the solar system, and 200 interactive exhibits. Villa Bighi, Kalkara (2540 1900, www.esplora.org.mt)
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Vittoriosa Waterfront
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VALLETTAPHOTOGRAPHY.COM/SAMUEL RONDOT
THE THREE CITIES & AROUND
The Royal Malta Golf Club
Gardjola Gardens The Gardjola Gardens are located on the bastion of Senglea, with panoramic views over Valletta, Grand Harbour and Fort St Angelo. The accompanying guard tower, or gardjola, has various symbols sculpted on it, such as an eye, an ear and the crane bird, representing observance and guardianship over Malta. Senglea
Senglea Waterfront The recently-upgraded Senglea Waterfront offers tranquillity in contrast to the busier Vittoriosa Waterfront across the bay. The slower pace here is enjoyed by locals and visitors alike, who can indulge in drinks or a meal on the esplanade, and take in the magnificent view of the surrounding historical buildings and yacht marina. Senglea
Vittoriosa Waterfront As the busiest spot in the Three Cities, the Vittoriosa Waterfront encompasses a multitude of restaurants, bars and cafés. Visitors can also enjoy the superb views across the super yachts berthed on the harbour towards Valletta’s magnificent bastions, and of Fort St Angelo, which sits at the end of the waterfront. 91, St Lawrence Street, Vittoriosa (2182 7057)
St Peter’s Pool
VIEWINGMALTA.COM
LEISURE Marsa Sports Club
The Royal Malta Golf Club
As Malta’s largest sports complex, Marsa Sports Club is home to 19 tennis courts (including two indoor courts and the only two clay courts available on the island), five fully air-conditioned squash courts, an open-air swimming pool, a cricket pitch, a gym studio and facilities for eight sports disciplines.
Founded in 1888, the Royal Malta Golf Club is Malta’s only golf course and one of only 66 in the world to carry the ‘royal’ title. The excellent facilities within its lavish clubhouse include a well-stocked golf shop and a terrace bar and restaurant, complete with exquisite views.
Marsa Sports Club, Off Aldo Moro Street, Marsa (2123 3851, www.marsasportsclub.com)
Pretty Bay Pretty Bay is a man-made, large, sandy beach located in Birzebbuga in the south of Malta. Surrounding the popular bay are cafés, bars and restaurants, as well as a football pitch, a children’s playground and a promenade that is ideal for an evening stroll.
Off Aldo Moro Street, Marsa (2540 1300, www.royalmaltagolfclub.com)
St Peter’s Pool This remote, natural swimming pool is one of Malta’s finest beauty spots, located close to Marsaxlokk at the tip of Delimara Point in the southwest of Malta. The crystalclear, blue sea at St Peter’s Pool is ideal for snorkelling, while the flat rocks surrounding it are excellent sunbathing areas. Marsaxlokk
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E AT & D R I N K
Ta’ Rita Lapsi View Bar & Restaurant
MALTESE
Ta’ Rita Lapsi View Bar & Restaurant Overlooking a sea view and the scenic rocky inlet of Ghar Lapsi in Siggiewi, Lapsi View was first established in the 1930s. The restaurant is widely celebrated for its delicious rabbit, either simply fried in garlic or stewed in gravy. Other favourites include the fresh fish, pizzas and barbecued items. Lapsi Road, Siggiewi (2164 0608, www.taritalapsiview.co)
Ta’ Victor Ta’ Victor is one of the best restaurants in Marsaxlokk thanks to the passion for traditional Maltese food shown here. You’ll find local delicacies like snails, octopus, rabbit, lamb and fresh fish, while, for dessert, don’t miss the imqaret (date pastries), complemented by a sweet local wine. Madonna ta’ Pompei Square, Marsaxlokk (9947 4249)
Tal-Petut This charming eatery hidden in the backstreets of Vittoriosa promises local dishes with a twist. The dailychanging menu offers an authentic taste of Malta as it makes the most of good-quality, seasonal produce, while showcasing a unique take on traditional local cuisine. 20, Pacifiku Scicluna Street, Vittoriosa (2189 1169, www.talpetut.com)
MEDITERRANEAN
Bongo Nyah This hip café, bar and restaurant combines a mouthwatering menu with cards and board games, should you be in the mood. Complementing a menu of favourites from across the globe, healthy choices and Sunday roasts is an 138 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S
Bongo Nyah
extensive beverages selection including cocktails, beers and single malt whiskies, as well as artisanal teas and coffees. Gardiel Street, Marsascala (9965 9472, www.bongonyah.com.mt)
Capo Mulini This stylish, newly-opened restaurant has rapidly become known for its impeccable service and delicious food. With a vast menu offering everything from fettucine lobster to pistachio fondant, guests should ask for the daily recommendations to make the most of this fishing village’s fresh, seasonal specialities. Fishermen’s Wharf, Marsaxlokk (9939 3996)
Chukkas Located within the Malta Polo Club, and with a recentlyopened restaurant in the town of Mosta, Chukkas offers diners a friendly and casual experience, serving firstclass, mainly meat-based dishes. Apart from its speciality Argentinean steaks cooked expertly on a log grill, the menu also includes fish, poultry, pasta and vegetarian options, all using fresh, seasonal produce. The Malta Polo Club, Marsa Sports Ground, Marsa (2122 8476, www.chukkasmalta.com). Also Durumblat Street, Mosta
Don Berto This sleek restaurant and bar overlooks the Vittoriosa Marina and guarantees stunning views from its large terrace, along with a delicious menu. Signature dishes include the fagottini stuffed with cheese and pears in a cheese fondue with walnuts, and the linguine with octopus and calamari. Vittoriosa Waterfront (2180 8008, www.donberto.com)
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THE THREE CITIES & AROUND
E AT & D R I N K
T’Anna Mari
Tal-Familja
EnChante
Tal-Familja
This excellent, typically Mediterranean eatery is located on the Senglea Waterfront. Boasting a vast menu – and a shorter, daily-changing list of ‘specials’ – of freshlyprepared dishes that would especially appeal to fish lovers, diners can either enjoy their relaxing meal in the indoor area or take in the magnificent scenery of the marina outdoors. The octopus starter dish, pasta options and fresh fish are not to be missed.
True to its name meaning ‘of the family’, Tal-Familja revolves around a homely atmosphere and mouthwatering food. It is run by the Precas, a well-established foodie family, who are all involved in producing the restaurant’s distinctive menu of fresh fish and meat dishes.
Juan B Azopardo Promenade, Senglea (2180 7734)
La Favorita La Favorita is considered one of the best fresh fish restaurants on the island. It’s the perfect option if you’re keen to sample the catch of the day, but the varied menu also offers traditional dishes, as well as juicy rib-eye steaks and vegetarian options. Gardiel Street, Marsascala (2163 4113)
T’Anna Mari Situated in the traditional fisherman’s village of Marsaxlokk, T’Anna Mari specialises in Mediterranean cuisine created with Sicilian flair. The Sicilian chef at the helm uses his extensive experience to create top-notch dishes served in an authentic Maltese ambience. 28, Xatt is-Sajjieda, Marsaxlokk (2744 6211, www.tannamari.com) Also Suq tal-Belt, Valletta
Ta’ Grabiel Restaurant & Terrazza This popular restaurant, established in 1953, remains a must-visit for fish lovers. Offering warm and friendly service, it is also known for its excellent Mediterranean food that attracts customers from all over the island, with a menu of signature fresh seafood and pasta dishes. Mifsud Bonnici Square, Marsascala (2163 6368, www.grabielrestaurant.com)
Gardiel Street, Marsascala (2163 2161, www.talfamiljarestaurant.com)
Tartarun Offering an upmarket, fine-dining experience, Tartarun is a rustic yet modern restaurant that specialises in fresh fish and seafood, along with a vast array of fine wines, ideal to complete any meal that’s a little beyond the ordinary. Xatt is-Sajjieda, Marsaxlokk (2165 8089, www.tartarun.com)
Terrone With its concise menu centred around hand-picked, seasonal produce, Terrone aims to recreate a healthy way of dining. Focusing on southern Italian and Maltese cuisines, the daily-changing menu includes fresh cuts of fish, pork, beef and rabbit, as well as pasta choices. 1, Wilga Street, Marsaxlokk (2704 2656, www.terrone.com.mt)
BARS
Del Borgo Wine Bar Blending charming, ancient interiors with a contemporary style, this popular wine bar and eatery offers a variety of delicious Mediterranean and Maltese options on its menu. The well-stocked bar serves around 300 local and international wines, as well as beers and spirits. St Dominic Street, Vittoriosa (2180 3710, www.delborgomalta.com)
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SLEEP
DANIEL CILIA
Locanda la Gelsomina
1 Gran Macina Grand Harbour Cugó
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The Snop House
Julesy’s BnB
Julesy’s BnB
CLIVE XUEREB
The Burrow Host Set in a 15th-century house, this family-run B&B lies in the small village of Tarxien, close to the ancient Tarxien Temples. The stylish décor features antique furnishings and exposed stone walls, while guests can enjoy the free Wi-Fi and a delicious continental buffet breakfast, served daily. 3, Alley 4, St Mary Street, Tarxien (9949 3360)
Cugó Gran Macina Grand Harbour Combining an evocative history, a unique harbour location, spectacular views and modern luxury, Senglea’s iconic Macina Bastion has been converted into this lavish five-star hotel. 21 of the suites within the Cugó Gran Macina enjoy unobstructed views of Grand Harbour and the surrounding marina, and it also houses a bistro, bar and cafeteria. 31st March Street, Senglea (2711 2711, www.cugogranmalta.com) 142 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S
Situated in the heart of the Three Cities, this homely B&B boasts a fantastic location, stunning terrace views and a delicious breakfast renowned for featuring excellent local produce. Guests are also welcome to join one of coowner Julesy’s cooking lessons, which focus on local and Mediterranean cuisines. 105, St George Street, Cospicua (9995 3465, www.julesysbnb.com)
Locanda la Gelsomina This boutique, family-run hotel is set within one of Vittoriosa’s oldest properties, constructed in the 1500s. Featuring four luxurious suites, this one-of-a-kind accommodation offers guests a gourmet breakfast. The property is also home to a teahouse where you can indulge in organic hand-blended tea and freshly-baked sweet pastries and treats. 3, Kunsill Popolari Street, Vittoriosa (2180 7897, www.locandalagelsomina.com)
The Snop House The Snop House occupies a beautifully-renovated and modernised classic building, while still retaining its character and soul. This boutique accommodation, which is born of the owners’ love of Malta and passion for art, offers six exquisitely-designed bedrooms, two on each floor, all serviced by an elevator. 23, Victory Street, Senglea (2702 9324, www.thesnophouse.com.mt)
MaltaInsider2019/2020
Sliema & Around S
liema is known as Malta’s shopping capital for good reason, and locals love heading here on a Saturday to source their latest buy. In fact, Sliema’s busiest area centres around its two main shopping streets which house a variety of high-street and designer brands, as well as shopping malls. However, apart from great shopping, Sliema is also renowned for its vast array of eateries, watering holes and places to stay, as well as the island’s most fashionable promenade.
Whether for a spot of shopping, a light lunch, romantic dinner or casual stroll by the sea, the bustling town of Sliema has a lot to offer.
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Sliema’s name ironically originates from the Maltese word for peace, sliem, which sheds light on the very different seaside town it once was – replete with grand houses built by the country’s British rulers and wealthy Maltese.
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SLIEMA & AROUND
While some beautiful old houses have sadly disappeared to make way for high-rise apartments, characteristic of the property boom that began in the mid-20th century, others along its less-frequented streets have been meticulously restored to their former grandeur and are a sight to behold, standing proud as a window into the past. Nowadays, many flock to the town, which is easily one of Malta’s most popular, for its string of cafés, shops, eateries, bars, hotels and residences, stretching from Manoel Island to the edge of Balluta Bay in St Julian’s. It’s often busy from early in the morning, when an army of joggers takes to the promenade for morning exercise. Later, this attractive stretch is taken over by walkers, office workers and shoppers, while both locals and tourists gather here for an evening stroll, leisurely drink or a bite to eat from one of the many kiosks, al fresco cafés and restaurants along the coast. The town’s main shopping streets are Bisazza Street and Tower Road, while The Point – one of Malta’s
largest and most frequented shopping malls – is situated a short walk away at Tigné Point. Along Tower Road in the direction of St Julian’s, the shops give way to a more residential area, mainly made up of up-market apartments looking out to the rocky beach below and beautiful sea views. With its extensive rocky coast, Sliema also draws a large number of swimmers and sun worshippers. With all this to its credit, it is no wonder that the densely populated town remains popular among people of all ages, with many vying to own property here. As you’ll no doubt discover, there’s always something to see or do in this bustling hive of activity. But that’s not quite the end of the area’s charms – the town’s environs are also worth exploring, and we’d certainly recommend the short walk down Sliema’s busy promenade in the opposite direction of St Julian’s, where Sliema merges with two lesser known towns – Gzira and Ta’ Xbiex. Apart from being home to the largest marina on the island, this part of the coast is blessed with magnificent views of Valletta.
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SLIEMA & AROUND MBOESCH WIKIMEDIA COMMONS
The Backstreets of Sliema
Parish Church of Jesus of Nazareth Manoel Island
H E R I TA G E
AT T R A C T I O N S
The Backstreets of Sliema
The Ferries
While the Sliema of today is a modern metropolis, its rich history can still be glimpsed by strolling through its backstreets. Apart from the many fully restored, characterful, old Maltese houses on these streets, look out for L-Ahwa Bakery in St Trophimus Street, which has been making bread traditionally for over a century.
The area known as The Ferries marks the centre of Sliema’s shopping precincts: The Strand, Tower Road, Bisazza Street and Tigné Point. Its wide coastal promenade is home to many restaurants and cafés, and enjoys panoramic views of Valletta, also making it ideal for a seafront stroll.
Manoel Island
Independence Gardens
In the middle of Marsamxett Harbour is Manoel Island, connected to the mainland via a stone bridge to Sliema’s neighbouring locality, Gzira. Operating not only as a yacht marina, the island also features restaurants, a duck village and historic sites such as the starshaped Fort Manoel.
Sliema
Close to the beach is this green space that provides a relaxing haven in central Sliema. Along with uninterrupted sea views, this colourful garden features lush foliage, a fountain, benches, a playground for kids and free Wi-Fi, while an on-site kiosk sells drinks and snacks.
Gzira
Tower Road, Sliema
Parish Church of Jesus of Nazareth
Sliema Promenade
This parish church was built around 1895 by Marchese Ermolao Zimmermann Barbaro Di San Giorgio. It was later given to the Dominican Friars, and only became the local parish church in 1973. The Strand, Sliema
This wide seafront promenade is over 2km in length and stretches from Sliema to St Julian’s. Thanks to the panoramic sea views it affords, the promenade is a popular spot for leisurely coastal strolls, morning jogs, or an al fresco light lunch or drink from one of its many kiosks.
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LEISURE Bortex Established in 1964, Bortex is one of Malta’s most respected names in formal men’s and women’s tailoring, sold particularly through its own international house brand, Gagliardi, as well as many other top clothing labels. Bortex also offers clothes hire and a bespoke made-to-measure service for men. Level 3, Plaza Shopping Complex, Bisazza Street, Sliema (2134 1466, www.bortexgroup.com). Also across Malta
Camilleriparismode As one of the biggest names in homeware, gifts and fabrics on the island, Camilleriparismode is a haven for the fashionable homeowner. While the flagship store in Rabat also offers an exquisite and extensive bridalwear collection, the Sliema store stocks a wonderful selection of gifts. Annunciation Square, Sliema (2134 4838, www.camilleriparismode. com). Also St Catherine Street, Rabat
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SLIEMA & AROUND
Fond Ghadir
Exiles
Christine X Art Gallery
Christine X Art Gallery
Fond Ghadir
Lily Agius Gallery
Formerly known as Artitude, Christine X Art Gallery promotes the original works of local and foreign artists with a connection to Malta. As well as regular exhibitions dedicated to specific artists, there are also new works that arrive on a weekly basis from resident artists. Entrance is free of charge.
Sliema’s coastline is a favourite spot for swimmers, largely due to its rock-cut baths, known locally as ilbanjijiet. These rectangular pools are sheltered from open sea currents and equipped with swimming pool ladders. Although these pools are referred to as Roman baths, they are thought to date back to the Victorian era.
Born and raised in London, Lily Agius opened her art gallery in Sliema in 2011 which has since become known for its memorable exhibition openings. Here she promotes Maltese and international fine art in a variety of media, as well as works by up-and-coming and established artists and designers. Entrance to the gallery is free.
Tower Road, Sliema
54, Cathedral Street, Sliema (9929 2488, www.lilyagiusgallery.com)
17, Tigné Street, Sliema (9984 4653, www.christinexart.com)
Exiles This popular, relatively smooth rocky beach, located close to a kids’ playground, is easy to access and features a dive shack, where divers prep to explore the reefs and underwater attractions, including the Tug 2 shipwreck. The nearby Exiles Lido also offers a spacious terrace with loungers and umbrellas, as well as a snack bar and restaurant. Tower Road, Sliema
L’Allée This concept store by renowned local interior designer Pippa Toledo, offers a fabulous collection of bespoke accessories. It also stocks items from other brands such as Chila bags, mini Mochila bags, Wolf Gang bags, Astra hand-made sandals embellished with Swarovski crystals and Stella sunglasses from the Komono collection. 14, Tower Road, Sliema (2133 8521)
The Plaza Food Hall The new food hall inside The Plaza Shopping Centre serves up a variety of mouth-watering, international flavours. Diners can choose between authentic Hawaiian, Chinese and Peruvian cuisines, and burgers, pizzas, curries, Indian street food or ice-creams from a dedicated ice-cream parlour. Bisazza Street, Sliema (2134 3832, www.plaza-shopping.com)
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Yana’s Jewellery
LIONEL GALEA
SLIEMA & AROUND
The Point
Souvenirs That Don’t Suck
Teatru Salesjan The Plaza Shopping Centre
Solo Vinyl & Books
What was once a cinema became Malta’s first managed shopping and office leasing centre. The Plaza is a popular shopping mall with numerous local and international brand names including Promod, Mothercare, Stivaletti and The Body Shop, as well as a new food court with an array of dining options.
First opened in Milan, Italy, before the owners moved the store to Malta, this independent vinyl and book shop offers a platform for music, vinyl culture, art, illustration, photography, subculture and underground genres. Solo now also hosts exhibitions, book launches, workshops, festivals and gigs.
Bisazza Street, Sliema (2134 3832, www.plaza-shopping.com)
92, Bordin Street, Msida (2133 8887, www.solovinylbooks.com)
The Point
Souvenirs That Don’t Suck
The Point shopping mall is renowned as one of Malta’s top shopping destinations. Boasting the largest concentration of brands on the island all under one roof, the complex offers a mix of fashion, beauty, health and lifestyle stores, as well as a variety of food outlets, and ample parking.
Souvenirs That Don’t Suck does exactly what it says on the tin, selling one-of-a-kind t-shirts, mugs, postcards and badges with hip designs and Maltese slogans, designed by local creatives. The shop also offers desk rentals ideal for those visiting Malta on a working holiday or enjoying an extended trip.
Tigné Point, Sliema (2247 0300, www.thepointmalta.com)
108, Manwel Dimech Street, Sliema (7907 2313, www.souvenirsthatdontsuck.com)
Soap Café Soap Café was opened after the talented soap-maker Charlene (Charly) Mercieca spent years selling her hand-crafted soaps at farmers’ markets and from home. Today she produces over 50 different soaps for all skin types and ailments, as well as lotions, balms and scrubs. 46, St Mary Street, Sliema (2788 3675, www.soapcafemalta.com)
Sunset Records This small records shop inside a converted Sliema townhouse retails a selection of new and used vinyl records from genres ranging from hip-hop, soul and funk to reggae, rock, disco, as well as local indie bands. Sunset Records also stocks an eclectic collection of t-shirts and accessories from some of Europe’s coolest underground apparel brands. 57, St Pius V Street, Sliema (9998 6185)
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As the only theatre in Sliema, century-old Teatru Salesjan was restored and reopened to become one of the island’s primary cultural centres. The intimate and richly decorated community theatre hosts a busy programme of events including classical and popular live music, theatre performances and contemporary art exhibitions. Guze Howard Street, Sliema (7799 7000, www.tsmalta.com)
The White Sheep This unique sister-run, artisanal delicafé is a foodie’s delight, offering everything from organic pasta and sauces to fine cheeses and cold cuts. There is also a capsule collection of stylish tableware available, as well as coffee-table style recipe books for customers to browse through. 405, Rue d’Argens, Gzira (2131 5222, www.thewhitesheep.eu)
Yana’s Jewellery The founder of Yana’s Jewellery, self-taught jewellery designer Yana Azzopardi, who has also exhibited in London, has earned an international reputation for her range of handcrafted, elegant and bespoke costume jewellery. Each unique piece combines vibrant coloured stones, beads, wire and chain to create the ultimate in statement jewellery. Cathedral Street, Sliema (2133 5036, www.yanasjewellery.com). Also Misrah Il-Barrieri Street, Msida
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LIAM FARRUGIA
E AT & D R I N K
Novi Bar
Busy Bee
AMERICAN
CAFÉS
New York Best Bistro
Balance Bowl
Reinventing fast food since 2011, New York Best Bistro is the adult version of the much-loved and now-defunct New York Best franchise, which produced the most mouthwatering burgers. You can still find these at the bistro though, alongside other delicious options ranging from salads and pasta dishes to stone oven-baked pizzas and, of course, meat. Qui-Si-Sana Seafront, Sliema (2788 0023, www.newyorkbest.com)
Novi Bar Novi was founded by a New Yorker, and focuses on express, home-made food, imported beers and ciders, signature cocktails and good music. As well as featuring classic all-American cuisine such as buffalo wings, Novi’s menu also redefines the all-time favourite burger, while offering fresh smoothies, juices and speciality coffees. 202, The Strand, Sliema (2780 2740)
The Pulled Meat Company The aim of this relatively new but already-popular establishment is to serve home-made, slow-cooked food that is traditional, trendy, or a fusion of both. Complementing the menu of heart-warming, snack-style, artisanal food inspired by its unique range of slow-cooked meat is an assortment of craft beers and wines. Msida Road, Gzira (2124 2244). Also Suq tal-Belt, Merchants Street and South Street, Valletta
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Founded by three passionate food and well-being enthusiasts, this lively eatery offers affordable, fresh, fast, healthy and home-made vegan cuisine. With a menu that is based on seasonal produce sourced from local farmers, Balance Bowl is the ideal place for everything from a quick snack to a small get-together. 182, The Strand, Gzira (2732 0556)
Bella Sicilia Known for its delicious coffee and mouth-watering, authentic, Sicilian cannoli, this cosy spot is a haven for lovers of Sicilian food and drink. As well as a friendly and welcoming atmosphere, complete with traditional background music, Bella Sicilia also offers a wonderful selection of delicate pastry varieties. 134, The Strand, Gzira (2131 1159)
Busy Bee A local favourite since the 1930s, Busy Bee is famous for its wide range of traditional Maltese confections and chocolates, and for its delectable cassatella Siciliana. As well as the café, Busy Bee runs a nearby gelateria which serves a variety of delicious ice-cream and frozen yoghurt flavours, crêpes and waffles. 30, Ta’ Xbiex Seafront, Msida (2134 0400, www.busybee.com.mt). Also Mdina Road, Mriehel
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INIGO TAYLOR
E AT & D R I N K
Caffè Berry
The Grassy Hopper
Caffè Berry
Giorgio’s Cafeteria
This haven for coffee lovers offers an incredible array of unique blends to choose from. Guests may either enjoy the healthy, home-made snacks on the menu in the fresh and relaxed atmosphere of the café, or buy premium products such as quality jams, tea blends and chocolates to take home.
This firm favourite among Sliema residents and shoppers serves food at all times of day and night; from breakfast to late-night meals and everything in between. The varied menu includes a baker’s corner and Mediterranean specialities, as well as a selection of mouth-watering pastries to enjoy during your mid-shop coffee break.
St Dominic Street, Sliema (9992 3183, www.caffeberry.com)
17, Tigné Seafront, Sliema (2134 2456)
Divini by Cuccagna
The success of a mobile vegetarian kiosk led to the opening of this café in Gzira, which champions vegetarian and vegan cuisines made from high-quality carbs and lowGMI foods. Completing the delicious health-oriented menu is a tempting range of gluten-free, vegan desserts.
Next door to La Cuccagna is this tiny, quiet coffee shop which has earned a reputation for great service and delicious home-made food. Offering not just a satisfying cup of coffee, Divini by Cuccagna also provides a tantalising selection of freshly prepared sweets and snacks.
The Grassy Hopper
St George Street, Gzira (2131 1676, www.thegrassyhopper.com)
47, Amery Street, Sliema (2134 6703)
Dolci Peccati A cosy and welcoming café on the busy Sliema promenade, Dolci Peccati is Italian-run and serves traditional cento panini that are freshly prepared every day, alongside decadent Sicilian sweets such as cassata Siciliana, zeppoli and cannoli. You’ll also find a wide range of ice-cream flavours, waffles and crêpes at the gelateria counter.
Mint Serving tasty, home-made food, drinks and sweets, all prepared using very fresh local produce, Mint has become one of the most popular cafés on the Sliema promenade. Increasingly dabbling in creating ‘raw’ food items, Mint also offers multiple vegan options in its varied and healthy display counter. 30, 39, Tower Road, Sliema (2133 7177, www.mintmalta.com)
268, Tower Road, Sliema (2702 3202). Also St John’s Street, Valletta Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 151
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E AT & D R I N K
The Pastry Park
Hammett’s Gastro Bar
The Pastry Park The ultimate destination for a coffee and cake, The Pastry Park specialises in mouth-watering sweets and desserts, and their signature eclairs are worth singling out. In keeping with the name, there is also a wide range of savoury pastries and home-made baguettes, alongside a drinks menu that features Maltese craft beers and premium whiskies. 15, Ghar il-Lembi Street, Sliema (2708 5059, www.thepastrypark.com)
SottoZero Serving typically Italian ice-cream for over a decade, Sottozero – The Gelato Factory is among the most renowned ice-cream makers in Malta. Offering a premium range of more than 115 innovative as well as traditional icecream flavours, SottoZero can also cater to those with food intolerances. The Strand, Sliema (2701 9339, www.sottozerofactory.com). Also Spring Street, Bugibba
Shakinah
MedAsia This popular fusion eatery serves sushi, salads and traditional dishes from Japan, Thailand, China and the Mediterranean. As well as featuring a lively outdoor terrace and a comfortable indoor dining area, MedAsia also becomes club-like in the evenings, with a cocktail menu from the mixology bar and a stylish booth area. 90, The Strand, Sliema (2133 3221, www.medasia.com.mt)
TemptAsian TemptAsian is an elegant, rooftop restaurant, affording magnificent panoramic views of Sliema and Valletta, that offers an array of tantalising Asian fusion dishes inspired by the distinctive flavours of China, Japan, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, Thailand, Korea, Vietnam and India. The Palace, High Street, Sliema (2133 3444, www.temptasianmalta.com)
INDIAN
Shakinah FUSION
Hammett’s Gastro Bar Presenting an innovative, shareable food concept with culinary influences, ingredients and techniques from around the world, Hammett’s is a delightful gastronomic experience. Diners can taste and share a variety of international cuisines, and can complete their meal with one of the many cocktails from the extensive bar menu. Tigné Seafront, Sliema (2134 1116, www.hammettsgastrobar.com) 152 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S
Blending authentic Indian cuisine with stunning, contemporary interior design, Shakinah offers a whole new dining concept in Malta. Whether at the elegant Kashmir Bar, the stylish Goa Private Dining Suite, or the outdoor garden area, diners can enjoy the à la carte menu of favourites crafted by the expert chefs. 11, Ta’ Xbiex Seafront (2752 2322, www.shakinahmalta.com)
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E AT & D R I N K
Ta’ Kris
Ali Baba
MALTESE
Il-Malti
Emma’s Kitchen
MEDITERRANEAN
Ali Baba
This small restaurant on a busy Sliema street has earned a reputation for serving delicious, authentic Maltese culinary delights. Designed with charming, Mediterranean, vintage décor, including original old tiles and nostalgic photographs, Il-Malti is a restaurant aimed at showcasing the best of local cuisine.
Established in 1987 by Abdul Rahman Harb and now run by Abdul’s son Hany, Ali Baba has become renowned for authentic Lebanese and North African cuisines in Malta. The dishes served on the varied menu are made using top-quality ingredients and a tantalising blend of flavoursome herbs and spices from the Middle East.
96, The Strand, Sliema (2133 7349)
9, Ponsomby Street, Gzira (2134 0119, www.hanyharb.com)
Ta’ Kolina As one of the longest-established, typical Maltese restaurants on the island, Ta’ Kolina is the ideal venue to sample local flavours, complemented by one of the many fine, Maltese wines stocked. Offering both indoor and outdoor dining, this family-run restaurant is also known for its warm and friendly atmosphere.
The Chophouse
151, Tower Road, Sliema (2133 5106)
This stylish restaurant offers a range of meats prepared on Malta’s largest charcoal grill, as well as a magnificent terrace view of Valletta. To complement the meat-focused menu, which also offers meat alternatives like fresh fish, there is also an impressive cellar with a wide selection of wines and whiskies.
Ta’ Kris
Tigné Point, Sliema (2060 3355, www.chophouse.com.mt)
Set within one of Sliema’s oldest bakeries, this restaurant retains many of its original architectural features. Within this charming setting, founder and chef Kris offers an authentic Maltese dining experience, combining hearty and traditional local dishes with good value and friendly service.
Run by architect and foodie Emma Warrington, Emma’s Kitchen combines delightful minimalist décor with tasty, genuine food. Its unique, trendy setting is ideal for a hearty breakfast, light bite or working lunch.
80, Fawwara Lane, Sliema (2133 7367, www.takrisrestaurant.com)
Emma’s Kitchen
1, Naxxar Road, San Gwann (2099 1184, www.emmaskitchen.com.mt)
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E AT & D R I N K
Fernandõ Gastrotheque
La Cuccagna
Fernandõ Gastrotheque This establishment with lovely designer touches offers a wine theatre and an exclusive culinary experience. Using top-quality produce, the menu features original twists on classic dishes, as well as a wide array of tapas, complemented by an impressive selection of wines. 6, Tigné Street, Sliema (7922 2023)
Fresco’s This popular restaurant on Sliema’s promenade provides both indoor and outdoor seating, where diners can enjoy lovely sea views. The tasty and varied menu includes Maltese traditional dishes, classic favourites and mouthwatering signature creations, as well as a tempting range of desserts. Tower Road, Sliema (2734 4763, www.frescosmalta.com)
HiMù With a balanced menu that alternates simple classics with more elaborate and innovative dishes, HiMù specialises in dishes made with amazing mozzarella. Apart from the new range of buffalo milk desserts, diners can also buy delicacies to take home such as pastas, wines and other preserves. The Strand, Gzira (2788 0400, www.himu.it). Also Dragonara Business Centre, Paceville
Il-Gabbana Established in 1956, this family-run eatery continues to be a popular spot for a relaxed lunch, seafront dinner, or coffee and cake. Located on the busy Sliema promenade, 154 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S
it enjoys unspoiled sea views, while its menu includes healthy food options and a wide range of refreshing beverages. Tower Road, Sliema (2701 1527, www.ilgabbana.com)
Kebab Ji Offering an authentic taste of traditional Lebanese cuisine in a small eatery overlooking the promenade, the chefs at Kebab Ji prepare a range of specialities and fresh salads every day. The menu also includes delicious vegetarian options bursting with flavour. Ideal for an on-the-go meal. 132A, Tower Road, Sliema (2782 7562). Also Paceville Street, St Julian’s
La Cuccagna This family-run restaurant, located close to the Sliema promenade, has earned a reputation with locals for casual dining and delicious food. Set within a quaint and characterful building, diners can enjoy the varied choice of pasta dishes, pizzas, salads, grills and fresh fish, as well as vegan and gluten-free options. 47, Amery Street, Sliema (2134 6703, www.cuccagnamalta.com)
Paparazzi 29 Clubhouse Situated on Manoel Island, right next to the marina, this restaurant is a great choice for a casual meal, particularly in summer, when diners can kick back on the large outdoor terrace and enjoy the fantastic view. The portions here are generous, the dishes homely and the ambience as relaxed as it gets. Manoel Island, Gzira (2133 5829, www.paparazzi29clubhouse.com)
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E AT & D R I N K
Pure Living
Avotaco
Pure Living Popular with juicing and health food enthusiasts, Pure offers a wide selection of vegan and raw foods, such as its signature vegan hot dog and halloumi burger. There is also a selection of delicious raw desserts, as well as fresh juices and superfood smoothies. Windsor Street, Sliema (2713 6306, www.pure.com.mt)
Ta’ Xbiex Waterpolo Club This stylish eatery is bright and spacious, and enjoys striking views of Grand Harbour and Valletta. The menu is a combination of local and Sicilian influences, with a selection of delectable starters, salads, burgers, pastas, pizzas, meat and fish dishes.
food made from very fresh ingredients, and provides excellent service. The seafront location offers views of the promenade and sea from its outdoor terrace, and guests are entitled to free parking at the nearby multi-storey car park. Tower Road, Sliema (2133 2324, www.cardini.com.mt)
Vecchia Napoli This trattoria-and-pizzeria combo is renowned for serving delicious pizzas, baked in a wood-burning oven and created by pizzaioli who have been trained in Italy, using ingredients imported from Naples. Vecchia Napoli has a spacious indoor dining area, and an outdoor terrace which affords beautiful sea views.
Ta’ Xbiex Seafront (2733 0144, www.taxbiexwaterpoloclub.com)
Tower Road, Sliema (2134 3434). Also across Malta
Tiffany’s Bistro
MEXICAN
Tiffany’s Bistro is an up-and-coming eatery within the trendy Tigné seafront area. Apart from its great location, its menu of classic dishes with a twist is ideal for breakfast, lunch, dinner or brunch, and it’s also a perfect pit-stop for an invigorating coffee accompanied by one of the mouthwatering cakes. Tigné Seafront, Sliema (9958 6280)
Trattoria Cardini Named after Cesare Cardini – the man who invented the Caesar Salad – Trattoria Cardini serves diners tasty
Avotaco This restaurant crafts authentic Mexican food items and offers an increasingly popular take-away service. Starting out as a food truck, Avotaco’s popularity led to the owners opening this restaurant where diners can enjoy the tempting menu of meat-topped nachos, tacos, burritos and quesadillas, as well as vegetarian, vegan and glutenfree options. Abate Rigord Street, Ta’ Xbiex (2732 0539, www.eatavotaco.com)
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The Brew
IAN SCHRANZ
E AT & D R I N K
Hole in the Wall
BARS
The Brew As one of the leading craft brewers on the Maltese islands, The Brew produces a variety of beers in-house and serves a menu of delicious dishes to accompany them, such as the signature one-metre ribs cooked in home-crafted honey beer. 74, The Strand, Sliema (2703 0398, www.thebrew.com.mt)
Good Thaimes This casual, laid-back hangout is a cross between a pub, a football club and a thrift shop. As well as a selection of ginbased cocktails, Good Thaimes is known for having one of the largest selections of beers in Malta, with more than 180 labels available. Gzira Road, Gzira (2767 7002)
Hole in the Wall Although it is one of Sliema’s oldest bars, Hole in the Wall, which was recently refurbished, holds its own as a popular,
trendy and chilled spot, ideal for a light daytime snack or evening drinks. There are also regular gigs by local and international bands throughout the week. 31, High Street, Sliema (9980 8386)
Paradise Exiles This hugely popular beach bar offers sun, sea and sunbed enthusiasts a super-casual and laid-back seaside haven. While relaxing in the easy-going atmosphere and listening to all genres of music, guests can enjoy a refreshing drink, snack, lunch or dinner. Tower Road, Sliema (9999 9499)
Sistina Wine & Co This establishment on the Gzira seafront offers a selection of platters and artisanal dishes prepared using very fresh ingredients. As well as boasting an extensive menu of wines, single malt whiskies and oak-aged grappas, Sistina also regularly hosts a variety of wine, art and music events. 188, The Strand, Gzira (2131 4161, www.sistinawineco.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 157
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SLEEP
The Palace Malta
115, The Strand This eight-storey, three-star hotel enjoys a central location that is an easy walking distance from the bustling shops, promenade and amenities of Sliema. Offering a selection of rooms, studios and suites, as well as a rooftop restaurant with a large terrace, The Strand also boasts panoramic sea views across to Valletta. 115, The Strand, Sliema (2131 5030, www.115thestrand.com)
Palazzo Capua
Blanc Boutique Hotel While providing the welcoming hospitality of a luxury guesthouse, the Blanc Boutique Hotel also aims to emulate the comfort of home. Each of the eight rooms within this 19th-century townhouse is beautifully decorated, and the common areas – including the elegant drawing room – are embellished with antiques from France and Italy. Windsor Street, Sliema (7703 0667, www.blanc.com.mt)
The Palace Malta This beautiful, five-star hotel boasts an elegant interior and spacious rooms that are fully equipped with a variety of amenities. There are also six designer suites, known as The AX Designer Suite Collection, that are individually designed around innovative themes, as well as several inhouse bars and restaurants, an indoor and outdoor pool, fitness centre and spa, among other facilities. High Street, Sliema (2133 3444, www.thepalacemalta.com) 158 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S
Palazzo Capua Set within a 200-year-old building, AX Palazzo Capua is up there with some of the finest luxury hotels in Malta. Brimming with history and offering five distinctive suites named after its past residents, AX Palazzo Capua boasts a range of facilities and is also an exclusive meetings and weddings venue. Gorg Borg Olivier Street, Sliema (2133 4711, www.palazzocapuamalta.com)
Preluna Hotel & Spa This popular and centrally located hotel has been operating for more than 40 years, and enjoys stunning sea views from many of the rooms. The on-site spa is equipped with a swimming pool, jacuzzi, sauna, steam room and gym, and offers massage and beauty treatments, as well as fitness classes. Tower Road, Sliema (2133 4001, www.preluna.com)
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SLE EP
TONIO LOMBARDI
The Victoria Hotel
Urban Valley Resort & Spa
Two Pillows Boutique Hostel
Two Pillows Boutique Hostel
The Victoria Hotel
Refining the traditional hostel experience, accommodation options in this well-converted townhouse range from luxurious studio apartments to budget-focused dorm rooms. Equipped with airconditioning and free Wi-Fi in every room, Two Pillows also has common areas in which guests can socialise.
Close to Sliema’s town centre and nestled in a quieter area, the ideal location of The Victoria is just one of the many reasons to stay there. It also affords guests fully equipped rooms, popular high-end restaurants and function rooms, and special spa and wellness packages.
49, St Pius V Street, Sliema (2131 7070, www.twopillowsmalta.com)
Urban Valley Resort & Spa
Gorg Borg Olivier Street, Sliema (2133 4711, www.victoriahotel.com)
The Waterfront Hotel
Situated close to the Wied Ghollieqa Nature Reserve, the Urban Valley Resort & Spa boasts a serene setting and a range of facilities within which to unwind. Guests can make use of two outdoor pools and tennis courts, a Turkish bath, sauna and gym.
This recently refurbished seafront hotel offers stunning views of the Sliema Creek, Manoel Island and Valletta’s iconic skyline. The comfortable rooms and friendly service make it ideal for a holiday or business base, while the rooftop swimming pool and sun loungers offer the ultimate in holiday fun-in-the-sun.
Wied Ghollieqa Street, Kappara (2138 5926, www.urbanvalleyresort.com)
The Strand, Sliema (2090 6899, www.waterfronthotelmalta.com) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 161
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Mdina, Rabat & Around Mdina, the island’s former capital, is known as the silent city. Having withstood the trials of time, the peace and stillness of the ancient streets, brimming with architectural gems, allow you to imagine a different epoch in history.
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ack in Roman times, Mdina was known as Melita, a word meaning honey, and was the site of the Roman governor’s palace. Melita eventually became the name used to refer to all of Malta. Later, around 870 AD, at the start of the islands’ Arab rule, Mdina was given the name it goes by today, derived from the Arabic word medina, which means town or city. The thick, protective walls that surround the city date back to this time. The city surrendered to Roger I of Sicily after a short siege in 1091. In 1530, Holy Roman Emperor Charles V granted the Maltese islands to the Knights of the Order of St John, who lost Rhodes to the Ottomans in 1522. Vittoriosa became the administrative centre of the island and Mdina’s population started to wane as a result, with many of the city’s residents first moving to Vittoriosa, and later to the new capital city, Valletta. In 1693, a devastating earthquake struck the city, causing extensive damage and leaving many of its magnificent buildings, including the cathedral, damaged or destroyed. However, a new Baroque-style cathedral designed by
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Moreover, Mdina and Rabat are surrounded by lush, rural areas. A trackless and picturesque train tour of Rabat, Mdina and Mtarfa, which departs from a terminus next to the Domus Romana, allows you to get a glimpse of the neighbouring countryside. Meanwhile, the rugged coastline at Dingli Cliffs and the wooded area of Buskett Gardens a few kilometres up the road are also worth a visit.
acclaimed Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafà was soon built where the old one stood, and it went on to influence the rest of the rebuilt city’s architectural character. The damaged fortifications were remodelled and repaired some years later, between 1723 and 1728, during the reign of Grandmaster Manoel de Vilhena. De Vilhena also made a few alterations to the city’s street plan, and new, grand buildings and palaces were built, including the Vilhena Palace (which today houses the Museum of Natural History) and the Banca Giuratale (or Municipal Palace).
Over in the other direction, heading back towards the centre of Malta, the bustling town of Mosta boasts the third largest dome in Europe crowning its imposing church. And while largely residential, the nearby villages of Naxxar, Attard, Lija and Balzan are quite pedestrian-friendly, and full of their own concealed charms.
While most people come to visit Mdina, the city’s ancient suburb of Rabat has its fair share of attractions too, including the Domus Romana, various catacombs, as well as a number of high-quality restaurants. PLACES OF INTEREST 8 Mdina Dungeons Museum
Palazzo Falson Historic House Museum
9 Domus Romana 10 Sef Farrugia
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The Metropolitan Cathedral of St Paul
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Mdina Cathedral Museum
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The Mdina Experience
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M D I N A , R A B AT & A R O U N D
Mdina Cathedral Museum
Casa Bernard
PETER BARTOLO PARNIS
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Domus Romana
H E R I TA G E Carmelite Priory Museum One of Malta’s only open-door monasteries allows visitors to take tours with a resident friar as a guide. The priory also houses a restaurant run by the friars, Al Convento, which allows them to be financially sustainable. Regular, free concerts of classical music are also held here. Villegaignon Street, Mdina (2145 4524, www.carmelitepriory.org)
Casa Bernard This mid-16th century palazzo serves as a private family home for Josette and Georges Magri, who lovingly restored the building in 2001 and adorned it with their extensive collection of furniture, paintings and objets d’art. The couple give guided tours of the house on the hour.
Church of St Dominic & The Priory The Church of St Dominic houses several treasures, among them a beautiful marble statue of the Virgin Mary. The priory, which was used as a filming location for the fantasy drama television series ‘Game of Thrones’, has a spacious courtyard with a small garden and fountains. St Dominic Square, Rabat (2145 4592)
Church of Ta’ Giezu The Church of St Mary of Jesus, also known as Ta’ Giezu, is one of Malta’s oldest, dating back to the 16th century. Deceptively humble on the outside, its lavish interior was expertly restored after parts of the roof collapsed in 2017. St Joseph Street, Rabat (2145 4594)
46, St Paul Street, Rabat (2145 1888, www.casabernard.eu) 164 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S
Domus Romana Once likely the site of a townhouse belonging to a wealthy Roman, the museum, with its antique mosaic floors, now houses several precious Roman remains and allows visitors a glimpse of what daily life was like during this bygone era. Museum Esplanade, Rabat (2145 4125, www.heritagemalta.org)
Mdina Cathedral Museum This former seminary houses a fine collection of treasures salvaged from the medieval Sicolo-Norman cathedral after it was severely damaged by an earthquake in 1693. The collection includes embossed choir books, impressive woodcuts by Albrecht Dürer and a set of silver altar saints. Archbishop Square, Mdina (2145 4697, www.metropolitanchapter.com)
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The Metropolitan Cathedral of St Paul Designed by celebrated Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafà, this Baroque cathedral is famous for an apse mural of ‘The Shipwreck of St Paul’, painted by Mattia Preti’s bottega assistants. At Christmas time, artistically modelled Nativity figures are displayed in the magnificent Neapolitan crib. St Paul Square, Mdina (2145 4136)
Mosta Church During World War II, a bomb pierced this church’s dome – the third-largest unsupported dome in Europe – during mass, but didn’t explode. There were no casualties, and a replica of the bomb with the caption ‘Il-Miraklu Tal-Bomba (The Miracle Of The Bomb), April 9, 1942’ is on display.
Palazzo Falson Historic House Museum Palazzo Falson is Mdina’s secondoldest building and was once home to well-travelled artist, scholar and philanthropist Captain Olof Frederick Gollcher. Today, it houses an exceptional array of paintings, valuable manuscripts, jewellery and other artefacts. Villegaignon Street, Mdina (2145 4512, www.palazzofalson.com)
Museum of Natural History
Palazzo Parisio & Gardens
Vilhena Palace, St Publius Square, Mdina (2145 5951, www.heritagemalta.org)
HERITAGE MALTA
St Paul’s Catacombs
Rotunda Square, Mosta (2143 3826)
Housed within the Baroque Vilhena Palace, this museum showcases Malta’s natural biodiversity and environmental science through a fascinating array of over one million specimens including 12,000 rocks and minerals, 10,000 birds, birds’ eggs and nests, and an internationally-important fossil collection.
Mosta Church
HERITAGE MALTA
Palazzo Parisio & Gardens
VIEWINGMALTA.COM/GREGORY IRON
ALAN CARVILLE
M D I N A , R A B AT & A R O U N D
Palazzo Parisio was built by Grandmaster Manuel de Vilhena in the 1730s and later embellished by Marquis Giuseppe Scicluna in 1898. Termed a ‘miniature Versailles’, the privately-owned, family-run palazzo boasts splendid interiors and magnificent Baroque gardens, where you can enjoy elegant afternoon tea. Victory Square, Naxxar (2141 2461, www.palazzoparisio.com)
Museum of Natural History
St Agatha’s Crypt, Catacombs & Museum These extensive and well-preserved underground cemeteries date back to the early days of Christianity in Malta, and can be explored with a guide. Discover the crypt featuring an altar carved out of rock and some of the oldest frescoes on the island. St Agatha Street, Rabat (2145 4419, www.stagathamalta.com)
St Paul’s Catacombs St Paul’s Catacombs are the earliest and largest archaeological evidence of Christianity in Malta, and were used for pagan, Jewish and Christian burials between the 4th and 8th centuries. Audio guides are available in English at no extra charge. St Agatha Street, Rabat (2145 4562, www.heritagemalta.org)
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Buskett Gardens
Villa Bologna
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VILLA BOLOGNA
The Wignacourt Complex
Villa Bologna The stunning Villa Bologna in the village of Attard dates to the 18th century and boasts Baroque and Neoclassical features, and delightful, sprawling gardens. The gift shop has a selection of tasteful, locally-made souvenirs. Painting lessons and workshops for children and adults are organised here. 30, St Anthony Street, Attard (2141 7973, www.villabologna.com)
Wignacourt Museum Complex The Wignacourt Museum Complex is made up of St Paul’s Grotto, catacombs, World War II shelters and the Wignacourt Museum. The main exhibition space within the museum has an impressive picture gallery with works by Mattia Preti, Antoine Favray, Francesco Zahra and other Maltese and European artists. Housed within the complex is a café located in the garden, which serves a selection of light meals and snacks. Parish Square, College Street, Rabat (2749 4905, www.wignacourtmuseum. com)
Dingli Cliffs
AT T R A C T I O N S Bastion Square Mdina’s palace-lined Villegaignon Street comes to an end just behind the ramparts of the fortifications, at Bastion Square which has handsome Baroque buildings on one side and magnificent panoramic views of Malta extending to Valletta and St Paul’s Bay on the other. Mdina
Buskett Gardens The Buskett Gardens were planted by the Knights of St John as a hunting reserve. As one of the few woodland areas in Malta, they’re popular for picnics and leisurely strolls. On the edge of the gardens stands the 16th-century Verdala Palace, which is now the summer residence of the President of Malta.
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Dingli Cliffs Dingli Cliffs - a short drive away from Rabat - are the highest point of the Maltese islands, standing around 253 metres above sealevel. The views from the top are breath-taking, overlooking the small terraced fields below, the open sea, and Filfla, the small uninhabited island just across the water. Dingli
Mdina Dungeons Museum Situated in the former prison beneath Vilhena Palace, this gory attraction showcases torture methods used during the time of the Inquisition, with over 75 full-size figures in period clothes ranging from Roman times to the short-lived French occupation. St Publius Square, Mdina (2145 0267, www.dungeonsmalta.com)
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INIGO TAYLOR
Gianpula Village
Sef Farrugia
Meridiana Wine Estate
The Mdina Experience
San Anton Gardens
Sef Farrugia
Learn all about the island’s old capital with this multi-lingual audiovisual introduction, available in 12 languages. There are special prices on block tickets when visiting in conjunction with the Knights of Malta attraction on Magazine Street.
The grounds of San Anton Palace, which serves as the residence of the President of Malta, are open to the public. The picturesque San Anton Gardens are ideal for peaceful walks when the weather is mild and are an undeniable treat for nature lovers.
7, Mesquita Square, Mdina (2145 4322, www.themdinaexperience.com)
San Anton Palace, Attard (2149 3170)
This yellow-fronted shop houses Maltese designer Sef Farrugia’s collection of clothing accessories, homeware and soft furnishings, including silk scarves, bowties and cushions, all in her distinctive, self-designed prints, using a range of fabrics such as silk, satin and organic cotton.
Meridiana Wine Estate The Meridiana Wine Estate, situated just below Mdina, produces a number of high-quality local wines. Organise a tour of the estate to see the fermentation hall and underground cellar, followed by a taste of premium Maltese wines on the panoramic terraces overlooking the vineyard. Attard (2141 3550, www.meridiana.com.mt)
LEISURE
St Augustine Street, Rabat (www.seffarrugia.com)
Gianpula Village
Uno Malta
With its excellent location in the midst of the countryside, this extensive clubbing complex is one of the most popular party venues in Malta and has hosted an incredible roster of international artists, including Faithless, Maceo Plex and Jon Hopkins. Rabat (9947 2133, www.gianpula.com)
Uno Malta, an open-air clubbing venue, is a crowd-puller that hosts local as well as top international DJs, spinning everything from house music to commercial house and R&B. There’s also chill-out music in a separate space if you feel like taking it easy. Ta’ Qali Crafts Village (2732 3602)
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ALAN CARVILLE
E AT & D R I N K
Carolina’s Petit Café
Ta’ Doni Deli Shop
Crystal Palace
CAFÉS
Il-Baxa Café & Snack Bar
Café Santa Lucia
With an ever-changing menu, Il-Baxa serves up generous portions of warm and filling dishes, from pasta to traditional Maltese ftira (flatbread), and full English breakfasts on Sunday.
From pastries, sweets and chocolates to sandwiches and other snacks, this low-key café is perfect for a quick bite to eat and a refreshing drink in a casual atmosphere. We highly recommend anything from their delectable selection of sweets. 29, Main Street, Rabat (2141 7894, www.cafesantalucia.com). Also Old Railway Track, Attard
Carolina’s Petit Café This sweet little café makes you feel like you’ve stepped into a doll’s house. Serving light snacks and tea in overwhelmingly pink surroundings, it’s perfect for a girly mother-and-daughter outing or even a relaxed baby shower. 79, 80, Bertu Fenech Square, Balzan (9982 8682). Also Qawra Road, Qawra
Crystal Palace Also known as is-Serkin, this age-old institution sells bags of pastizzi – the infamously delicious puff pastry snack with a cheese, pea or anchovy filling – for just a handful of change, at all hours of the day. The adjacent La Brioscia ice-cream parlour is also worth a visit for a sweet treat. St Paul Street, Rabat (2145 3323)
Fontanella Tea Garden Fontanella has been a favourite among locals and visitors for years. It’s most renowned for cakes, particularly the sinfully-rich chocolate cake and deliciously-moist carrot cake. Bookings are recommended for the adjoining wine bar, Vinum. 1, Bastion Square, Mdina (2145 0208, www.fontanellateagarden.com)
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41, Main Street, Rabat (2755 1552)
L-Istazzjon Café & Eatery This secluded, restored train station reopened a few years ago as a family-run brasserie and bistro, serving up wholesome dishes using organic, seasonal and locallysourced produce. For dessert, the pancake in a pan is a particular draw. Ghajn Hammam Street, Rabat (2145 1984, www.listazzjon.com)
Palazzo de Piro Café & Bistro This café-bistro within the ground floor and courtyard of the magnificent 16th-century Palazzo de Piro, promises a pleasant spot for a delicious bite to eat, be it a light focaccia or a wholesome plate of fried rabbit. Bastion Street, Mdina (2010 0560, www.palazzodepiro.com)
Ta’ Doni Deli Shop For a taste of flavourful Maltese food, Ta’ Doni is the perfect, cute, little spot. It offers mouth-watering Maltese snacks, such as the traditional ftira biz-zejt (unleavened bread with a mix of summery ingredients), as well as seasonal treats and artisanal products for patrons to take home with them. 73, St Paul Street, Rabat (2762 5170)
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E AT & D R I N K
The Lord Nelson
Ta’ Marija
Toffee & Co This hole-in-the-wall, family-run place offers good valuefor-money breakfast, lunch and dinner options, but it’s best-known for its sweet treats such as the carrot and walnut chocolate cake, the hummingbird cake and the baked toffee cheesecake. 34, St Augustine Street, Rabat (2145 1996)
FRENCH
Bacchus Offering a menu of creative fusion dishes inspired by French cuisine, Bacchus’ home-style cooking is beautifully presented and delicious. The 350-year-old vaulted interior is cosy in winter, but when it gets warmer, you may sit in the garden overlooking the bastion walls. 1, Inguanez Street, Mdina (2145 4981, www.bacchus.com.mt)
De Mondion Restaurant Widely acknowledged as one of the top 10 restaurants in Malta, the elegant de Mondion offers excellent service, food quality and presentation, and an extensive wine list. The terrace, on the Mdina bastions, enjoys a beautiful view of more than half the island. The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux, Council Square, Mdina (2145 0560, www.demondion.com)
The Lord Nelson This excellently located restaurant, with gorgeous views of the Mosta Dome, combines a lovely atmosphere with great service and perfectly presented, fine-dining style dishes that combine elements of French cuisine with an invigorating modern twist.
280, Main Street, Mosta (7943 2590, www.thelordnelsonrestaurant.com)
MALTESE
Diar il-Bniet Diar il-Bniet offers a genuine, local agritourism experience. The menu is informed by the fresh produce from the family-run farm nearby, which is also used to make the seasonal sweets, jams, wines and oils that can be bought from this charming eatery. Main Street, Dingli (2762 0727, www.diarilbniet.com)
Ta’ Marija One of Malta’s best-known Maltese cuisine restaurants, Ta’ Marija also hosts extensive carvery buffets on Saturday evenings and at lunchtime on Sunday, while folklorethemed dinner shows are organised every Wednesday and Friday. Constitution Street, Mosta (2143 4444, www.tamarija.com)
MEDITERRANEAN
Bahia Bahia is housed in a 200-year-old restored townhouse in the heart of the pretty village of Lija. The frequently changing menu only features a handful of dishes but the precision and the respect shown to the ingredients should satisfy even the most fastidious. 75, Preziosi Street, Lija (9999 1270, www.bahia.com.mt)
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E AT & D R I N K
Il-Bitha ta’ Doni
Luna – The Restaurant at Palazzo Parisio
Bottegin Palazzo Xara Set inside a stately palazzo that is now also the official seat of the L’Isle Adam Band Club, Bottegin Palazzo Xara is a real gem. The restaurant serves hearty and well-priced dishes, and gets very busy on Sunday mornings. 19, St Paul Street, Rabat (7945 4538)
Coogi’s Restaurant & Tea Garden Housed in an ancient townhouse which has been lovingly restored to showcase its original features, the magical Coogi’s serves a variety of sharing platters, pasta dishes and pizzas, as well as burgers, seafood and meat options in a charmingly unique atmosphere. 5, St Agatha’s Esplanade, Mdina (2145 9987, www.coogis.co)
Da Luigi A few steps outside of Mdina, this family-run eatery offers superb Mediterranean cuisine. Run by third-generation baker Louis, expect to savour revived traditional recipes using carefully-sourced local ingredients, all of which is complemented by an extensive wine list. Gilormu Dingli Street, Rabat (2145 0123)
The Fork & Cork Chef Carl Zahra serves a varied à la carte menu of Mediterranean dishes, as well as seasonal specials and a selection of fine platters. The menu changes regularly, so you never know what to expect except fantastic flavour. Saqqajja Hill, Rabat (7904 7043, www.forkandcork.com.mt)
Grotto Tavern Recently refurbished, Grotto not only boasts typical Maltese house of character features, but also counts a 2,000-year-old cave as part of its premises. The restaurant’s young team aims to bring Mediterranean food into the modern era, with a menu of fresh and highly original dishes. 9, 10, 12, St Paul’s Square, Rabat (2145 3258, www.grottotavern.net)
Il-Bitha ta’ Doni Il-Bitha ta’ Doni, which forms part of the Santa Marija ta’ Doni Church complex that it’s nestled in, serves up Mediterranean dishes with a clear contemporary Italian influence. Expect delicious pasta, fresh fish and meat dishes, all wonderfully prepared using locally-produced ingredients. St Paul Street, Rabat (2765 5100, www.bithatadoni.com)
L’Agape Elegant but unassuming, L’Agape is popular for its constantly changing selection of Mediterranean dishes. Top-quality torrone and truffles are also available for purchase, which can serve as excellent take-home gifts. St Catald Square, Rabat (7945 5438, www.lagapemalta.com)
Luna – The Restaurant at Palazzo Parisio Renowned for lunch and traditional English afternoon tea ‘as it should be’, elegant Luna, located within the splendid 18th-century Palazzo Parisio is also a perfect spot for breakfast and dinner, offering varied culinary delights. Table reservation is highly recommended. Palazzo Parisio & Gardens, 29, Victory Square, Naxxar (2141 2461, www.palazzoparisio.com)
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E AT & D R I N K
Root 81
Rickshaw
Medina Set within a restored medieval house just off Mdina’s Cathedral Square, the honey-hued stone walls, pretty internal courtyard and classic garden make this cosy eatery the ideal spot for a romantic dinner date or to celebrate a special occasion. 7, Holy Cross Street, Mdina (2145 4004, www.medinarestaurantmalta.com)
Palazzo Castelletti Offering high-quality service within a historical palazzo, Palazzo Castelletti blends contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with French influences, while making use of goodquality Maltese produce in a creative and innovative way. 62, St Paul Street, Rabat (9910 9911, www.palazzocastelletti.com)
Tat-Tarag
a vast range of wine and grappa, while enjoying meals inspired by the various regions of Italy. 31, Hospital Street, Rabat (9946 5803)
ORIENTAL
Rickshaw Rickshaw is one of the longest-standing oriental restaurants on the island and has also been extended to other Corinthia hotels, such as those in Prague and Budapest. It isn’t hard to see why when you peruse the menu, which features a wide range of dishes from across the Far East. Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa, De Paule Avenue, Attard (2144 0301)
Root 81
BARS
Located on the Saqqajja Steps, this innovative restaurant has a warm and friendly ambience, with excellent service and an exquisite, well-priced menu, which changes seasonally. Daily specials are also available, depending on what’s fresh.
Don Mesquita
21, Saqqajja Hill, Rabat (7949 2083)
Vinaccia Known as La Casa Della Grappa, the fragrant Italian beverage is one of the cornerstones of this beautifully designed eatery run by chef patron Marco Fenech and his brother, wine specialist Mario. Patrons can browse through
This little wine bar is the perfect place to relax while enjoying a great selection of well-priced food within a rustic setting. In the evenings, Don Mesquita is only open by reservation for groups of at least 15 people. 5A, Mesquita Square, Mdina (2702 6640)
Tat-Tarag Situated right next to the recently-restored Casino Notabile (cultural centre), Tat-Tarag wine bar offers a wide variety of wines and spirits, and an array of platters and other hearty food options. Make sure to grab an outdoor table to take in the lush countryside views. 25, Saqqajja Hill, Rabat (2145 3088) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 175
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SLEEP
Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa
Quaint Boutique Hotel
Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa A truly luxurious place to stay within the charming, central village of Attard, the Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa offers great facilities including a relaxing spa, large swimming pool, tennis courts, landscaped gardens and the highly recommended Rickshaw Restaurant. De Paule Avenue, Attard (2144 0301, www.corinthia.com/palace)
Quaint Boutique Hotel Located on one of the prettiest streets in Rabat, this stylish and cosy boutique hotel is within easy walking distance of anything in the Rabat and Mdina area. The property also has a restaurant, where breakfast is served, as well as a spacious terrace. Republic Street, Rabat (2210 8800, www.quainthotelsgozo.com)
The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux
The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux Once home to a noble family, this 17th-century palazzo now houses an exquisite, elegant Relais & Châteaux hotel which offers guests the chance to travel back in time and discover Malta’s rich heritage. Facilities include a gym, sauna and pool, as well as two restaurants, de Mondion and Medina. Council Square, Mdina (2145 0560, www.xarapalace.com.mt) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 177
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A peek
into the art of
Maltese
WINEMAKING
Ta’ Betta Wine Estates may be young and relatively new to the club of Maltese wine makers, but are definitely a force to be reckoned with.
S
ituated in the lush surroundings of Girgenti in Siggiewi, Ta’ Betta Wine Estates are worthy of a visit during your stay on the islands, particularly for organised wine tasting and wine appreciating events. But what to expect?
Ta’ Betta is a relatively new winery on the islands, but it already has 12 years of research experience in the sommelier business, getting the estate ready for its big moment. Juanito Camilleri, the University of Malta’s former rector, and his wife Astrid gave life to the Ta’ Betta project back in 2002, after Patrick Xerri, the estate’s viticulturist, introduced them to Vincenzo Melia. Together, they embarked on a journey to fulfil their dream of making fine wines with personality. Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 179
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The estate is actually named after their daughter, Bettina, who was born a few months before the project began. In 2003, after an extensive embellishment and some TLC, the first vines imported from France started to be planted, going on to be harvested for the first time in 2006, kicking off the wine-making journey at Ta’ Betta.
THE WINE ESTATES
Ta’ Betta Wine Estates comprise four hectares of terraced land situated circa 200 metres above sea level in an area known as the Contrada ta’ Brija in Girgenti, limits of Siggiewi. There are circa 15,000 vines planted on site and around 200 olive trees apart from fig trees, carob trees and miscellaneous indigenous Maltese flora. The winery is situated on the southern flank of the estate, enjoying views of the vineyard with the medieval town of Mdina as a backdrop, the Grandmaster’s summer residence to the north-west, the Inquisitor’s summer residence to the west, and the Laferla Cross on the hill south-west.
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THE TERROIR
Wine is not made in the winery, but, mostly in the vineyard: the fruit of the vine reflects the story of the terroir, the weather cycle that year, the heat, light, rainfall, the health and grooming of the vines. One can never make good wine from poor grapes, one can never make authentic wines by using chemistry to cover up shortfalls or to bolster nature’s yield. The terraced vineyards at Ta’ Betta are trellised along the north to south axis: in summer, the foliage and the shadow one trellis casts onto the next, as the sun traverses east to west, allow one to protect the grapes from excessive direct sunshine. The vines are well ventilated given that the prevailing winds on the island are the northwesterly Mistral and the north-easterly Grigal. Harvest typically starts with Chardonnay around mid- to late August, followed by Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Syrah in early to mid-September, and completed with Cabernet Sauvignon mid- to end of September. Each year comes with its story and challenges – a judicious balance must be struck between the health of the vines and grapes against the backdrop of the weather forecast. Wind, humidity, the threat of a torrential downfall, or the prospective menace of a severe heatwave all play a part in the outcome of the wine, and each year, the winery seeks to capture that story in a glass to be savoured in years to come.
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THE RANGE OF FINE WINES
At Ta’ Betta, a wine or a specific vintage is playfully described according to the personality or character it evokes: be it young or old, open and ready or still closed on the nose, be it masculine or feminine, rough or refined. The name of each wine had to convey something about the character of the wines, which in and of itself speaks for the terroir and school of wine-making, but also to say something about the winery’s roots, its heritage and the Maltese islands it calls home.
MEET
TA’ BETTA’S WINES
The Maltese islands invite us all to travel through time: to visit prehistoric temples which significantly predate the Pyramids of Egypt; to experience a culture created in a melting pot of others who left their mark over time: the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Aragonese, Angovese, up until the King of Spain passed on Malta to the Knights of St John in 1530 for the price of a single peregrine falcon a year.
1. JEAN PARISOT – THE TENACIOUS “This oak-fermented Chardonnay, produced against all odds, is a complex wine which conveys apricot, white fig and vanilla to balance the acidity and alcohol.”
It is at this point that Malta experienced its renaissance: from a modest fiefdom off Sicily, the Knights transformed it into the southernmost fortified bastion of Christendom and adorned it with wealth and prosperity, manifest in the Baroque city, Valletta. After more than two decades of planning and attention to detail, Ta’ Betta unveils three wines, all embodying the estate’s philosophy based on authenticity and sincerity. And in keeping with this, the three wines are named after famous people in Maltese history, giving them life and character. The protagonists of this period, a string of Grandmasters spanning 350 years, gave Malta stature; each Grandmaster leaving his distinct mark, each with his own character and appellation.
2. ANTONIO MANOEL – THE OPULENT “This opulent blend of Merlot with Cabernet Sauvignon typically conveys cassis, strawberry and red forest fruit, with undertones of chocolate and caramel.” 3. PHILIPPE VILLIERS – THE ROBUST “This robust blend of Syrah with Cabernet Franc typically conveys forest fruit on the nose with undertones of tobacco black and bell pepper.” The tasting room at Ta’ Betta is a small and exclusive venue with limited capacity. Ta’ Betta is a private estate and is not generally open to the public. However, exclusive wine-tasting and wine appreciation events can be catered for by appointment only for Ta’ Betta Wine Club members and discerning visitors who have a passion for wine or who are keen to expand their knowledge of the art of winemaking. Organise a visit or tour of the estate by appointment on M: 7977 4477 or E: info@tabetta.com
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Mellieha, Bugibba & Around The northern part of Malta is a world away from the rest of the island – the pace is slower, the landscape greener, and it offers the largest number of gorgeous beaches in one area within this archipelago.
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he greatest draw of the northern part of the island is undoubtedly its coastline and clear waters. Whether you’re after a shallow, sandy stretch, a hard-to-reach but scenic spot or a dose of water sports, you’ll be pleased with the variety of options – and the pristine countryside, interesting attractions and excellent restaurants make this part of Malta a must-visit. At face value, the northern town of Bugibba is busy, over-populated and over-developed; but it has many attractive qualities too and is a crowd-puller for beach and sea lovers. There are countless pubs, bars, restaurants, nightlife spots and ice-cream parlours here too, as well as a lovely promenade to explore. Adjacent is the smaller town of Qawra, which boasts the biggest landmark in this area, the Malta National Aquarium and its remarkable
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collection of sharks, stingrays, eels and several other stunning sea creatures. While it is busy too, Qawra does have a quieter side and is known for the peaceful Salini National Park, as well as its long promenade for walks by the sea. Further up north, you’ll notice an even slower pace and a change in landscape, characterised by stretches of golden sand, lush and scenic countryside, and some of the island’s top diving sites. Bugibba’s promenade merges with that of its more tranquil neighbour, St Paul’s Bay, with its small, colourful boats and quaint townhouses testament to its past as a fishing village. Across the water, you’ll be able to spot the uninhabited St Paul’s island, which is said to be the spot where St Paul, the patron saint of Malta who converted the Maltese to Christianity, was shipwrecked in 60 AD. A statue of the saint that stands around four
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metres high, allegedly near the spot where the saint was shipwrecked, was inaugurated in 1845 and still dominates the island today. You can visit the island by boat on an organised trip. Your next destination should be Mellieha, but there are a handful of places worth stopping at along the way. Mistra Bay, accessed by a secondary road after driving through Xemxija, is ideal for a quiet country walk in winter or a quick dip in summer. If you’re after a spot of sightseeing instead, head towards Selmun Palace, which watches imposingly over Mistra Bay. Just a short drive away (you can walk if you’re comfortable navigating rugged terrain) is the tiny and secluded Selmun Bay, known to locals as Imgiebah which, despite being somewhat difficult to get to, is a piece of paradise.
Perched on top of a hill north-west of the island, overlooking the clear blue waters of extensive Mellieha Bay, also known as Ghadira Bay, is the village of Mellieha, which dates back to medieval times. Down in beautiful Mellieha Bay, Ghadira Nature Reserve is a haven for migrating birds, and sees around 140 species annually. Finally, just across from Mellieha Bay is the impressive Red Tower dedicated to St Agatha. It could serve as the ultimate sunset spot from which to see much of what this striking part of the island has to offer.
PLACES OF INTEREST Riviera Bay (Ghajn Tuffieha)
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MELLIEHA, BUGIBBA & AROUND Ghadira Nature Reserve
ARON TANTI
VIEWINGMALTA.COM/PAULINE DINGLI
Red Tower (St Agatha’s Tower)
H E R I TA G E
Classic Car Museum
Red Tower (St Agatha’s Tower)
Selmun Palace
The impressive Red Tower dedicated to St Agatha, named after its distinctive red colour, was built in 1649 and offers panoramic sea views. The Order of the Knights of St John equipped it with a cannon and a strong defence force, using its high ridge location to communicate easily with the island of Gozo across the water.
Also known as Selmun Tower, Selmun Palace is an 18th century tower-like edifice in the outskirts of Mellieha. Built by the Monte della Redenzione degli Schiavi, a charity founded during the reign of Grandmaster Alof de Wignacourt, this architectural gem served as a hunting and recreational lodge for the Knights of St John. The area is a fantastic spot for trekking with stunning views.
Tad-Dahar Road, Mellieha (2122 0358)
Sanctuary of St Paul’s Shipwreck This chapel, situated close to the Wignacourt Tower, was built upon what is believed to be the spot where, following St Paul’s shipwreck, a bonfire was lit and the saint was bitten, but remained unaffected, by a poisonous snake. Once you step in, look out for the three fine paintings depicting scenes of the Bible-documented shipwreck.
AT T R A C T I O N S Classic Car Museum
Mellieha
As well as the many classic cars on display, from T-Birds and Spitfires to Fiats and Fords, this museum also exhibits a wide selection of authentic mid-century memorabilia including gramophones, TV sets, jukeboxes and even fashion items from the 1940s, 50s and 60s.
Wignacourt Tower
Tourists Street, Qawra (2157 8885, www.classiccarsmalta.com)
The Wignacourt Tower is the oldest surviving coastal defence post in Malta, built in 1610 by Grandmaster Alof de Wignacourt. The first in a chain of towers built around the island, it was the only fortification in the north of Malta until 1649, when St Agatha’s Tower was built. San Frangisk Street, St Paul’s Bay (2122 0358)
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Ghadira Nature Reserve Ghadira Nature Reserve is situated in a picturesque spot in Mellieha Bay. Serving as a haven for migrating birds, with around 140 species arriving annually, the park is also home to various animals, shrubs and trees. Marfa Road, Ghadira Bay, Mellieha (7955 4347, www.birdlifemalta.org)
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Popeye Village
Malta National Aquarium
Majjistral Nature & History Park
Majjistral Nature & History Park This park in the northwest of Malta encompasses the scenic coastal area from Golden Bay to ix-Xaghra l-Hamra, including a 6km stretch that is protected as part of the Natura 2000 network, and multiple historical and archaeological sites. Guided tours are held regularly, including snorkelling sessions during summer. Ghajn Tuffieha Street, Manikata (2152 1291, www.majjistral.org)
Malta National Aquarium As Malta’s first national aquarium, this eye-catching, star-shaped building houses a remarkable collection of fish, ranging from species found in local waters to sharks, stingrays, eels and several other stunning sea creatures. The complex also includes the fashionable hangout, Café del Mar. Trunciera Street, Qawra, (2258 8100, www.aquarium.com.mt)
DARREN SALIBA
VIEWINGMALTA.COM
Mediterraneo
Mediterraneo Mediterraneo is Malta’s only marine park, where visitors can swim with dolphins and interact with sea lions, exotic birds and reptiles. With fascinating presentations and fun activities for the whole family, it offers an unforgettable experience for little ones and adults alike. Coast Road, Bahar ic-Caghaq (2137 2218, www.mediterraneopark.com)
Popeye Village Originally a film set for the 1980 musical production ‘Popeye’ starring Robin Williams, Popeye Village today remains a major attraction. Filled with lopsided huts, rickety bridges and swimming spots, children will love the range of activities available, while everyone will enjoy the breath-taking views from the village across the bay. Prajjet Road, Anchor Bay, Mellieha (2152 4782, www.popeyemalta.com)
Salini National Park The peaceful Salini National Park in Qawra is ideal for children to play, or to simply relax with family or friends. Centred around an open fountain surrounded by natural turf, the park also features indigenous trees, endemic flora and an artificial water stream that flows towards the adjoining parking area. Qawra Street, Qawra (2157 5258)
Splash & Fun Water Park This large and family-friendly water park has several swimming pools, water slides, a large wave pool and a lazy river, plus it hosts regular activities led by professional animators. There is also an on-site snack bar and restaurant, and plenty of parking is available. Coast Road, Bahar ic-Caghaq (2137 4283, www.splashandfunmalta.com)
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Café del Mar
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WWW.LEPETITMALTAIS.COM
Mistra Bay
LEISURE
Golden Bay
Café del Mar Affording stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea and St Paul’s island, Café del Mar offers a highend venue in which to relax, swim, drink, dine and party. With live DJ sessions and popular sunset events, the atmosphere at Café del Mar has made it one of Malta’s top party hotspots. Trunciera Street, Qawra (2258 8100, www.cafédelmar.com.mt)
Empire Cinema As the only cinema in this part of the island, Empire screens some of the latest Hollywood hits and blockbuster films, as well as select opera performances from around the world. All seven of its screens are equipped with digital systems, while two also screen 3D movies. Pioneer Road, Bugibba (2158 1787, www.empirecinema.com.mt)
Gnejna Bay
Mellieha Bay
Gnejna Bay is a sandy beach located in the northwest of Malta, within the limits of Mgarr. Quieter than other nearby sandy beaches, Gnejna offers good snorkelling opportunities in the crystal-clear sea water, while sunbathers can choose between the sand and the nearby stretch of flat limestone rock.
Mellieha Bay, also known as Ghadira Bay, is a vast sandy beach located in the north of Malta. With a stretch of shallow water, good accessibility and a range of activities such as windsurfing, kite surfing, canoeing and water-skiing, it is also one of the most family-friendly beaches on the island.
Mgarr
Mellieha
Golden Bay
Mistra Bay
As one of the largest and most popular sandy beaches in Malta, Golden Bay is the ideal spot for swimming, snorkelling and sunbathing. With plenty of on-site facilities, visitors can also enjoy the breath-taking scenery and spectacular sunsets from the beach.
Mistra Bay is a popular spot for locals hoping for a quiet country walk in winter or a quick dip during summer. Accessed via a side road near Xemxija, the intimate sea inlet at Mistra Bay leads to a stunning, lush, green valley.
Mellieha
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Xemxija
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Riviera Bay (Ghajn Tuffieha) Paradise Bay
Oracle Casino
Riviera Bay (Ghajn Tuffieha)
Within the Dolmen Resort Hotel is this casino, the only one available in this part of the island. Apart from spectacular sea views and daily live entertainment, the casino also offers visitors gaming tables, poker tournaments, cash games and slot machines, as well as food from the on-site bistro.
Also known as Ghajn Tuffieha Bay, Riviera Bay offers the ideal beach setting to watch sunsets or to enjoy water sports such as jet- and waterskiing. The bay and neighbouring cliffs afford an unspoiled rural view, and are home to an ancient defence tower and remnants of Roman baths.
Islet Promenade, Qawra (2157 0057, www.oraclecasino.com). Also The Casino, Portomaso, St Julian’s (2138 3777)
Mgarr
Located at the furthest north point of Malta, the cliffs at Paradise Bay offer an unobstructed view of both Gozo and Comino. The secluded, sandy beach, nestled between the cliffs, is ideal for sunbathing and is equipped with all the necessary facilities including sunbeds and umbrellas, as well as a good-quality dining spot.
Selmun Bay, also called Imgiebah Bay, is a sandy, remote and secluded beach in the north-eastern part of Malta. Accessed via a rough road, the beautiful beach is well worth the effort of getting there, while the water is crystal-clear and ideal for snorkelling.
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Paradise Bay
Selmun Bay (Imgiebah Bay)
Mellieha Selmun Bay (Imgiebah Bay)
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MICHELE AGIUS
E AT & D R I N K
Munchies
Baia Beach Club
CAFÉS
INDIAN
Debbie’s Café
Garam Masalaa
This small, delightful café serves a variety of light bites and tasty sweets and cakes, all freshly prepared, while their coffee is reputed to be the best in Mellieha. 62, Gorg Borg Olivier Street, Mellieha (2765 4101)
Munchies This popular café, open all-year round, offers good food, excellent service and spectacular views of Mellieha Bay. There’s an extensive lunch and dinner menu, as well as a tempting range of home-made desserts. Marfa Road, Mellieha (2157 6416, www.munchies.com.mt)
Sea View Café This no-frills, self-service café on Mellieha hill has been open for 65 years and serves a vast food and snacks menu. Captivating views of Mellieha and Gozo can be enjoyed from the indoor seating area, its terrace or even the children’s play area. Santwarju Street, Mellieha (2704 2230)
Xemxija Café Lounge & Wine Bar Situated in the heart of Xemxija Bay and enjoying magnificent sea and country views, this welcoming café has ample indoor and outdoor seating space, and offers a wide selection of Mediterranean dishes, sweets and cakes, as well as an extensive wine list. Xemxija Bay, Xemxija (2701 5266)
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This popular, family-run Indian eatery overlooking Salini Bay is spacious and vividly decorated. Diners can choose from the menu’s wide selection of starters before sampling some of the delicious main courses, including tandoori options cooked in a traditional clay oven and multiple vegetarian dishes. Qawra Road, Qawra (2157 5787, www.garammasalaamalta.com)
New Madras Chef patron Vellai Chamy Muthuraman, or ‘Muthu’ as he is known, channels his extensive Indian culinary experience into this family-run restaurant. With a menu of wellselected dishes from the many regions of India where Muthu worked, diners at New Madras can enjoy a genuine experience of Indian cuisine. 3, Gandoffli Road, Bugibba (9929 8138, www.newmadras.com.mt)
MEDITERRANEAN
Baia Beach Club Baia Beach Club affords stunning views across the clear blue waters of Armier Bay towards Gozo and Comino. As one of the islands’ top beach clubs, it offers a superb service to guests enjoying the luxury lido, the cocktail bar and the restaurant, as well as water sports options, an onsite beautician and massage therapist. Little Armier, L/O Mellieha (2157 0942, www.baiabeachclub.com)
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E AT & D R I N K
Commando Restaurant
Giuseppi’s Bar & Bistro
La Buona Trattoria del Nonno
Bouquet Garni
Duo
Bouquet Garni specialises in fresh fish and seafood dishes, offering a modern take on classic Mediterranean and French cuisines. Chefs and brothers Darren and Wayne propose a range of creative dishes on their menu and their ever-changing specialities board, which diners can enjoy in the restaurant’s elegant surroundings.
Presenting a wide choice of Mediterranean gastronomic delights, this restaurant in the heart of the seaside town of Qawra offers a tasty culinary experience. Duo’s holistic approach to healthy eating ensures that diners enjoy a relaxed vibe based on sharing genuine food, whether they eat indoors or out.
4, Gorg Borg Olivier Street, Mellieha (2152 2234)
Qawra Coast Road, Qawra (2157 8236, www.duomalta.com)
The Chef’s Table Working to the motto ‘cooked with love… served with a smile’, The Chef’s Table has become a well-loved gem in the heart of Bugibba’s lively pub and restaurant hub, offering both comfortable interior and outdoor seating. The restaurant’s varied menu also caters for vegetarians and vegans. Pioneer Road, Bugibba (9981 5960)
Commando Restaurant Set inside a 300-year-old stone building, Commando Restaurant stands on a hilltop in the historic centre of Mellieha, with summertime outdoor seating available on the pretty square. The service is warm and the menu is exceptional, featuring simple-yet-refined dishes that are wholesome and delicious. Iz-Zjara tal-Papa Square, Mellieha (2152 3459, www.commandorestaurant.com)
Giuseppi’s Bar & Bistro This well-established bistro is perfect for a special night out, for that something beyond the ordinary. Diners can enjoy its famously mouth-watering cuisine either al fresco on the terrace with a backdrop of the sea, or in the cosy Mediterranean-meets-the-Hamptons interior. The extensive Giuseppi’s menu changes daily and is inspired by seasonal produce. Salini Resort, Salini Bay, St Paul’s Bay (2157 4882, www.giuseppisrestaurant.com)
La Buona Trattoria del Nonno This family-run restaurant is highly popular with locals, serving a cuisine based on a combination of charcoalgrilled cooking and slow oven-baking, with favourites including delectable pizzas, fresh pastas and slow-cooked meats. Fresh local fish may also be selected from the display at the fish counter. St Paul Street, St Paul’s Bay (2157 3182, www.trattoriadelnonno.com)
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E AT & D R I N K
Ta’ L-Ingliz Restaurant
Tal-Puzzu
Lovage Bistro Lovage offers a selection of tasty dishes including salads, pastas, meat and fish, combining a traditional cooking style with a modern twist. With outdoor seating, a bar and an indoor snug area, Lovage is the ideal spot for everything from a quick bite to a family meal. L-Imhar Street, Qawra (7959 4098, www.lovagebistro.com)
Mithna
Tarragon
Ta’ L-Ingliz Restaurant This family-run restaurant specialises in exceptional Maltese cuisine. Locally renowned for serving up a truly authentic taste of the island, it is the ideal place to sample traditional Maltese rabbit, prepared in a variety of ways and served by friendly and helpful staff in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. 59, Main Street, Mgarr (2157 4605)
Tal-Puzzu
Housed within a converted 17th-century flour windmill, Mithna has a reputation for serving top-quality cuisine. It offers set, à la carte and kids’ menus, as well as an extensive wine list, all of which may be enjoyed either within the windmill itself or in the stylish outdoor area.
A favourite among locals, especially for its delicious homemade pizza, Tal-Puzzu serves a range of freshly prepared traditional Mediterranean dishes, including pastas and grilled meats. It’s a family-friendly restaurant with a cosy and welcoming atmosphere.
58, Main Street, Mellieha (2152 0404, www.mithna.com)
11, Gorg Borg Olivier Street, Mellieha (2754 4388)
One80 Kitchen & Lounge
This award-winning restaurant offers the three key ingredients of quality, comfort and value. Combining excellent service with a menu that features steaks, shellfish, fish, irresistible desserts, daily specials and an outstanding wine list, the Tarragon experience is a superb culinary adventure.
As its name suggests, One80 enjoys views stretching from the parish church down to the Ta’ Ruman Valley and Mellieha Bay. Ideal for lunch while visiting one of the nearby sandy beaches, or dinner while enjoying the spectacular sunset view, One80 offers distinctive dishes in a stylish ambience. 30, Il-Wied ta’ Ruman Street, Mellieha (2152 1637, www.one80.com.mt)
Rebekah’s Set in a beautifully-restored house of character, Rebekah’s balances old-world charm with modern culinary concepts. Guests can enjoy simple, elegant dining whether in the courtyard in summer or by the rustic fireplace in winter and whether they opt for the daily specials, fresh fish or seasonal menu. Tgham Street, Mellieha (2152 1145, www.rebekahs.com.mt) 190 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S
Tarragon
Church Street, St Paul’s Bay (2157 3759, www.tarragonmalta.com)
Zigumar Perched right on the coast with views of Qawra Bay, Zigumar offers a taste of summer. The restaurant has earned a reputation for serving the finest and freshest local fish and seafood, accompanied by a wide variety of trusted local and Italian ingredients. Luzzu Street, Qawra (9906 4380)
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E AT & D R I N K
Chang Thai
Cheeky Monkey Gastropub
ORIENTAL
BARS
Amami
Cheeky Monkey Gastropub
Amami brings together the best of Asian cuisine to create a sophisticated combination of authentic flavours. Named after the mythical goddess of creation, Amamikyu, the restaurant sources local fresh produce to delight the taste buds as guests enjoy the outstanding view of Ghadira Bay.
This relaxed gastropub offers a vast beverage menu that features top-quality beers (including craft beers) with pints on tap, as well as spirits, cognacs, blends, liquors, rums, single malts, cocktails, non-alcoholic smoothies, hot beverages and more. There is also a tempting food menu available.
Marfa Road, Mellieha (2152 1156, www.amamirestaurant.com)
Benjawan This family-run eatery prepares all its dishes from scratch, using only fresh ingredients, so guests may choose how mild or spicy their meal will be, depending on their individual taste. 148, St Anthony Street, Bugibba (9901 7250, www.benjawanthaicuisine.com)
Chang Thai Serving only genuine Thai dishes in authentic surroundings, Chang Thai promises an unforgettable journey of flavours merged with the beauty of Thai culture and tradition. The menu showcases traditional cuisine from all four regions of Thailand and includes seafood, fish and meat, as well as vegetarian and children’s options. Tourists Street, Qawra (9945 0609, www.changthai-restaurant.com)
Qawra Coast Road, Qawra (7954 3853, www.cheekymonkeymalta.com). Also 175, Merchants Street, Valletta
The Fortress Wine & Dine Set within a 300-year-old gun battery opposite Xemxija Bay, The Fortress provides the ideal spot to relax on the sofas or in a gazebo, while sampling the extensive wine list. Patrons may also opt for international food platters ranging from sushi to French cheeses and Chinese to Greek. Xemxija Hill, Xemxija (2157 9852)
O’Reilly’s Gastro Pub While this pub is known for its innovative 1.1 litre cocktails that are made by the owner himself, it is also popular due to its live entertainment offerings and screening of live sporting events, as well as for its warm, friendly bar staff, its whisky selection and its open-all-hours kitchen. Halel Street, Bugibba (9924 0788) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 193
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AX Seashells Resort at Suncrest
AX Sunny Coast Resort & Spa db San Antonio Hotel & Spa
AX Seashells Resort at Suncrest This quality hotel located on the Qawra waterfront boasts some of the best sea views on the island. Guests can enjoy on-site amenities such as a spa and outdoor swimming pools, as well as the many other leisure and dining options located within walking distance of the hotel. Qawra Coast Road, Qawra, (2157 7101, www.seashellsresortmalta.com)
AX Sunny Coast Resort & Spa In keeping with its name, this aparthotel in Qawra promises breath-taking sunset views. As well as offering spacious, fully-serviced, self-catering apartments in a comfortable and welcoming environment, the resort also features spa facilities and indoor and outdoor swimming pools. Qawra Coast Road, Qawra (2157 2994, www.sunnycoast.com.mt)
db San Antonio Hotel & Spa
db Seabank Resort & Spa Located just 30 metres away from Malta’s largest beach, Mellieha Bay, this resort features a large pool, a spa, six themed restaurants and three bars, and offers a range of sports and leisure facilities including family-friendly activities and a full animation programme with live evening shows. Marfa Road, Mellieha (2289 1000, www.dbhotelsresorts.com/dbseabank)
Dolmen Resort Hotel Situated along the Qawra promenade, this four-star hotel affords spectacular views of the sea and St Paul’s island. The extensive on-site facilities include a private beach lido, a nightclub with a large outdoor terrace, a diving club, the Oracle Casino, indoor pools, and a fitness room and spa. Dolmen Street, Qawra (2355 2355, www.dolmen.com.mt)
Labranda Riviera Hotel & Spa
Located in the heart of Qawra, db San Antonio Hotel & Spa offers its guests an all-inclusive experience. It encompasses a hotel with over 500 rooms and suites, multiple bars and restaurants, outdoor pools overlooking St Paul’s Bay, fitness and spa facilities, and a jam-packed entertainment programme.
With its tranquil seafront location and unspoiled views of the islands of Gozo and Comino, the idyllic Labranda Riviera Hotel & Spa features a large spa, multiple seawater swimming pools, and several bars and restaurants.The hotel also houses a diving school that offers various packages, including visits to numerous nearby dive wrecks and diving sites.
Tourists Street, Qawra (2158 3434, www.dbhotelsresorts.com/dbsanantonio)
Marfa Bay, Mellieha (2152 5900, www.riviera.com.mt)
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Locanda la Gelsomina
Maritim Antonin Hotel & Spa Malta
Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Malta Golden Sands Ramla Bay Resort
Maritim Antonin Hotel & Spa Malta Located in the heart of Mellieha, the four-star Maritim Antonin offers breath-taking views of this picturesque village and the surrounding countryside. Among its facilities are a rooftop pool, a plush spa and a range of eateries, as well as free Wi-Fi and satellite TV in every room. Gorg Borg Olivier Street, Mellieha (2289 2000, www.maritim.com.mt)
Salini Resort
Paradise Bay Resort Hotel
Ramla Bay Resort
Situated close to some of the island’s most beautiful beaches, Paradise Bay Resort offers spacious rooms and a variety of restaurants and bars, including the elegant K Lounge. Guests can also make use of the four seawater swimming pools, private sandy beach, games room and playground.
This resort offers unobstructed views of the sea towards Gozo and Comino, as well as Malta’s countryside. Its many amenities include a private sandy beach, three outdoor pools, an indoor pool, a diving school and seasonal sports centre, as well as restaurants, bars and a state-of-the-art spa.
Paradise Bay, Cirkewwa (2152 1166, www.paradise-bay.com)
Marfa, L/O Mellieha (2281 2281, www.ramlabayresort.com)
Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Malta Golden Sands
Salini Resort
Boasting some of Malta’s finest views, Radisson Blu’s Golden Sands resort delivers top-notch facilities including nine new suites, a panoramic sauna in its leisure centre, a private beach, four pools, a diving centre, a range of dining options, free Wi-Fi and a highend spa.
Situated along the coast overlooking Salini Bay, this resort affords magnificent views of the sea, while its interiors are inspired by the Mediterranean landscape. Apart from the 240 rooms and suites, the resort also features a spa, two tennis courts, two outdoor pools, and multiple popular restaurants and bars.
Golden Bay, L/O Mellieha (2356 1000, www.radissonblu.com/goldensandsresort-malta)
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Gozo & Comino Malta’s sister island of Gozo has an aesthetic, history, culture and character all of its own, and it’s well worth a day trip – or even longer – if you have the time.
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ozo is a mere 25-minute boat ride away from Cirkewwa, Malta, and the car and passenger ferry (www.gozochannel.com) leaves regularly. Head here to discover a quainter side to the Maltese islands, a more laid-back pace, untarnished scenery, swathes of countryside, fantastic food and an array of activities. The best part about Gozo, particularly if you’re only visiting for a day or weekend getaway, is its size. Its area is just 67sq km, so you can pack quite a few things into your visit. And, trust us, there is no shortage of places to discover and activities to enjoy.
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The ferry will drop you off at Mgarr Harbour, and you’ll instantly get a sense of what’s awaiting you on the ‘island of the three hills’, as it is known among locals. Much like Malta, buses are the principal means of public transport in Gozo, but hiring a car may make it easier for you to wander around the charming, winding roads that link the many villages that dot the island. Alternatively, there are also two hopon, hop-off bus routes that take you round the most popular sites. Most roads in Gozo lead to the capital, Rabat. The town is also sometimes referred to as Victoria, a name given to it during the British rule to mark Queen Victoria’s
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GOZO & COMINO enchanting Fungus Rock, which has a fascinating history all of its own.
diamond jubilee. The heart of the capital is Independence Square (better known as it-Tokk), where you’ll find many market stalls selling everything from knitted jumpers and sunglasses to beach towels and traditional lace. The town also encompasses the old, fortified capital – the Cittadella, on the hill above the centre.
In the north of Gozo, in the outskirts of the tiny village of Ghasri, you’ll find the picture-perfect Ta’ Gurdan Lighthouse. Alternatively, the seaside resort of Marsalforn – with its promenade dotted with bars and outdoor eateries – is a 10-minute drive away. Marsalforn Bay was recently awarded the Beach of Quality status (along with scenic Hondoq ir-Rummien), which is one step removed from Blue Flag status. If you’d like to visit another beach, we suggest Mgarr ix-Xini, located a few minutes’ away by car from the main harbour, before you head back.
No trip to Gozo is complete without a visit to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Ggantija, the Ta’ Kola Windmill, the legendary Calypso’s Cave, or Ramla Bay, with its deep-red sand and turquoisecoloured waters. There are several other attractions dotted around the island, although Gozo sadly lost one of its landmarks in 2017 – the Insta-famous Azure Window in Dwejra (a contender for the seven wonders of the natural world), which made an appearance in many epic films, including ‘Troy’, starring Brad Pitt. Following a violent storm, the Azure Window was sadly destroyed and crumbled into the sea. Nevertheless, the area is still beautiful, and we recommend walking down to the inland sea to hop onto a small boat for a short ride through the caves into the open sea, observing the
The ferry trip will provide a scenic view of Comino, the smallest of the three inhabited islands that make up the Maltese archipelago – just three people are registered here as residents. Although small, the highlights on the island are magnificent and include the breath-taking Blue Lagoon and the largest coastal tower, the Santa Marija tower, built by the Order of the Knights of St John. Ferries to Comino run frequently from both Malta and Gozo, so you may easily spend anything between a few hours to a full day on this idyllic island.
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Ggantija Temples HERITAGE MALTA
Cittadella
H E R I TA G E Cittadella This tiny citadel is situated above Gozo’s capital, Rabat, and boasts stunning 360-degree views across the island. Following its recent restoration, the Cittadella, dating back to the Middle Ages, is an architectural gem, with interesting museums, sites, meandering streets and crafts shops. Rabat
Ggantija Temples As one of the Maltese islands’ many UNESCO World Heritage sites, Ggantija is made up of two Neolithic temples that were built by ‘giants’, as legend would have it, almost 6,000 years ago. These historical marvels are situated on the outskirts of the charming village of Xaghra. It-Tafla Street, Xaghra (2155 3194, www.heritagemalta.org)
Gharb Folklore Museum This privately-owned museum is housed within a unique early 18thcentury house. The museum has 28 rooms that each display a variety of historical objects associated with Gozo’s traditional trades, crafts and pastimes, such as milling, printing, carpentry and wine-making. Frenc ta’ l-Gharb Street, Gharb (2156 1929)
Gran Castello Historic House
Gozo Museum of Archaeology
Gran Castello Historic House
As Gozo’s first public museum, the Museum of Archaeology opened in 1960 and is housed inside a 17thcentury townhouse. The exhibits are divided into three sections, namely Prehistory, the Classical period and the Medieval and Early Modern periods, and include beautiful and historically-significant local, archaeological artefacts.
Also known as the Folklore Museum, Gran Castello resides within a cluster of 16th-century houses built in the late Gothic style with Sicilian and Catalan influences. The three-floor museum has a range of exhibits illustrating the local, domestic, rural and traditional ways of Gozitan life.
Mdina Gate Street, Citadel, Rabat (2155 6144, www.heritagemalta.org)
Melite Bernardo De Opuo Street, Citadel, Rabat (2156 2034, www.heritagemalta.org)
Gozo Nature Museum
Heart of Gozo – Il-Hagar
This museum is housed within three interconnected buildings that date back to the 17th century. Focusing on Gozo’s natural resources and their use locally throughout the ages, the collection of exhibits showcases the island’s geology, minerals, as well as human and animal evolution. Kwartier ta’ San Martin Street, Citadel, Rabat (2155 6153, www.heritagemalta.org)
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This complex combines a medieval palace, a traditional townhouse and a cultural centre which is home to an extensive collection of religious, historical and artistic artefacts. Highlights include paintings, statues, religious vestments and coins, as well as gifts from Popes Francis and Benedict XVI. St George’s Square, Rabat (2155 7504, www.heartofgozo.org.mt)
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St George’s Basilica
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Ta’ Pinu Sanctuary The Old Prison
The Old Prison
St George’s Basilica
Ta’ Pinu Sanctuary
Within the Cittadella and adjacent to the Courts of Justice is this old prison, which was in continuous use between the mid-16th century and the beginning of the 20th century. The complex comprises an entrance hall and six individual cells. Look out for the ancient graffiti including depictions of sea vessels, crosses, games, dates and names carved by its inhabitants throughout the centuries.
Also known as the Golden Basilica, St George’s is the perfect example of a Baroque church. It houses a multitude of notable artworks such as the wooden statue of St George, two works by the world-renowned Baroque painter, Mattia Preti, and a beautiful solid bronze door.
This popular pilgrimage site is a shrine to the Virgin Mary, and has even welcomed Pope Benedict XVI in 2010. The museum at the back is fascinating, with letters and stories sent in gratitude for blessings received. In front of the Sanctuary are beautiful mosaics depicting the 20 mysteries of the rosary.
Cathedral Square, Citadel, Rabat (2156 5988, www.heritagemalta.org)
San Dimitri Chapel Close to the cliff known as the Cape of St Demetrius is the San Dimitri Chapel, which was rebuilt in 1736 where an early 15th-century chapel once stood. Set amid the gorgeous Gozitan countryside, the chapel’s interior is intricately painted and is coated with mosaics. L/O Gharb
St George’s Square, Rabat (2155 6377, www.stgeorge.org.mt)
St Mary’s Cathedral & Museum Inside the fortified Cittadella atop a flight of stairs is this Baroque cathedral and adjoining museum. Designed in 1697 by Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafà, St Mary’s Cathedral is built entirely out of local limestone and is shaped as a Latin cross, while the trompe l’oeil ceiling painting gives the illusion of a dome. Cathedral Square, Citadel, Rabat (2155 4101, www.gozocathedral.org)
Gharb (2155 6187, www.tapinu.org)
AT T R A C T I O N S Gozo Citadel Visitors’ Centre Complementing the spectacular Cittadella perched above Gozo’s capital city of Rabat, this recentlyopened centre is set within two disused water reservoirs. The audiovisual presentation offers interesting insight into the citadel’s history and layout. Cittadella, Rabat (2215 6507)
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Ta’ Mena Estate
Ta’ Kola Windmill
Independence Square (It-Tokk) Independence Square, also known as It-Tokk, in the centre of Rabat, hosts an open market and several cafés with outdoor tables. The square is dominated by the Banca Giuratale, built between 1733 and 1738, which was the seat of Gozo’s municipal government and currently houses the Rabat local council. Il-Papa Gwanni Pawlu II Street, Rabat
Ta’ Gurdan Lighthouse The Ta’ Gurdan Lighthouse is a Gozitan landmark that rises 161 metres above sea level and overlooks the charming village of Ghasri. Constructed in 1851 during the British rule, the lighthouse now functions automatically, but stands on a hill with breath-taking 360-degree panoramic views.
Arthall Gozo
Ta’ Mena Estate The Ta’ Mena Estate encompasses around 25 hectares of land and combines Gozo’s primary means of livelihood, namely agriculture and tourism. Named after the original owner, Carmena, the estate today welcomes visitors interested to learn more about typical Gozitan rural life and provides tours of its extensive vineyards and olive grove.
Lanterna Street, Ghasri
Rabat Road, Xaghra (2156 4939, www.tamena-gozo.com)
Ta’ Kola Windmill
Villa Rundle Gardens
This stone windmill was first built in 1725, then reconstructed in the 1780s, and was still in use until the mid-20th century. It is named after the last miller who worked and lived there. Visitors can observe the former workshop on the ground floor and the living quarters on the first floor, as well as the remarkable milling mechanism within the tower.
The regenerated Villa Rundle Gardens, in the heart of the capital, provide recreational facilities including a playing area, a visitors’ centre and an area for open-air activities. Republic Street, Rabat
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LEISURE Arkadia Commercial Centre This popular four-floor shopping mall comprises a sizeable supermarket, which also stocks a range of Waitrose products, as well as stores with other well-known brands such as Peacocks, Piazza Italia, Urban Jungle, Swarovski, The Body Shop, Orsay and Tommy Hilfiger, and McDonald’s and McCafé outlets. Fortunato Mizzi Street, Rabat (2210 3000, www.arkadia.com.mt)
Arthall Gozo This gallery promotes groundbreaking, avant-garde, ironic and provocative contemporary and modern art. It also hosts multifaceted exhibitions showcasing works by local and international artists, and offers a catalogue of artworks for sale. 8, GPF Agius De Soldanis Street, Rabat (7705 1564, www.arthallgozo.com)
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Blue Lagoon
The Duke Shopping Mall Aurora Theatre
Astra Theatre Inaugurated in 1968, the Astra has hosted many top local and international performers, including celebrated Maltese tenor Joseph Calleja, Raffaella Carrà, the Montparnasse Ballet Troupe, the Ballet Classique de Paris and Amedeo Minghi. The theatre is also renowned for its annual operatic event, and for spearheading the annual Festival Mediterranea. 9, Republic Street, Rabat (2155 0985, www.teatruastra.org.mt)
Aurora Theatre Adorned with artworks by renowned Maltese artist Chev Emvin Cremona, the Aurora’s design, architectural features and furnishing afford it perfect acoustics. Despite its limited capacity of 1,500 patrons, the Aurora has staged many largescale productions and hosts a busy calendar of events throughout the year. Republic Street, Rabat (2156 2974, www.teatruaurora.com)
Blue Lagoon
The Duke Shopping Mall
Offering one of the best swimming spots across the Maltese islands, the Blue Lagoon lies between the island of Comino and the islet of Cominotto. The lagoon is named after the colour of its crystal-clear waters as they reflect the vibrant blue of the sky. It tends to get crowded on weekends, so if you’re thinking of visiting, make your way there early.
Located on the main road that runs through Rabat, The Duke is home to many established brands including Accessorize, Monsoon Children, Eurosport, The Kitchen Store, Springfield, Benetton, Bata and Skechers. The Duke Café is also a popular coffee spot, and free parking is available for customers on-site.
Comino
Republic Street, Rabat (2155 8000, www.thedukegozo.com)
Citadel Cinema
Gozo Sports Complex
Gozo’s only cinema is located near the capital’s ancient Cittadella, and is housed within a century-old building. With two 4K projectors that screen the latest Hollywood releases, the Citadel Cinema also offers a 360-degree view of Gozo, through a short, multi-lingual film. 17, Castle Hill, Rabat (2155 9955, www.citadelcinema.com)
The Gozo Sports Complex provides an array of sporting facilities. It features a gym and a climbing area, as well as basketball, volleyball, tennis, table-tennis, badminton and squash courts, and offers regular badminton, pilates and aerobics classes. Europe Street, Rabat (2215 6996)
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Hondoq Bay
Hakari Gozo
Hakari Gozo The range of products at Hakari Gozo is pretty unique. The allnatural, well-being-oriented pieces sold here, such as soaps and lip balms, food items, silver jewellery, silk scarves and upcycled furniture, are hand-made by local artisans. Il-Qbajjar Street, Marsalforn (2156 9000, www.hakarigozo.com)
Hondoq Bay Hondoq Bay is a sandy beach with meadows of Neptune grass and a view of the sister island of Comino. With its small caves at water level offsetting the crystal-clear, azure water and its stunning underwater marine life, this is also an ideal diving site, especially for beginners. Qala
Ku Club Perfect for party enthusiasts, this indoor, state-of-the-art club is situated in the heart of Rabat, and offers a massive dancefloor, the latest light technology and sound systems, and four bars on two different levels. Playing a variety of music from techno to dance, there are also regular performances by international stars.
Mgarr Ix-Xini
La Bottega del Sole e della Luna For fine gourmet food from Italy and France, as well as a great selection of home-made, local products including jams, honey, liquors, nougat and baked goods, this store is a gem well-worth discovering. There is also a small collection of linen, ceramic and wood items on sale, which make for perfect souvenirs.
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The Magro Food Village This family-run food village aims to keep Mediterranean traditions alive, with the Magro brothers investing in the largest food processing company on the island. Besides a sophisticated tomato-processing plant, the village also houses a cheese-making centre, a gourmet yoghurt facility and an outlet selling a variety of artisanal food items.
St George’s Square, Rabat (2740 0472)
L-Ghassara Street, Xewkija (2155 6663, www.magro.com.mt)
La Grotta
Mgarr Ix-Xini
Situated between Rabat and the idyllic Xlendi Bay, the popular La Grotta club has both outdoor and indoor dancefloors, and regularly attracts big names to its doors, such as Sonique, Bo Bruce and David Guetta. The unique setting also features a natural cave and five bars. Xlendi (9900 7070)
Mro Giuseppe Giardini Vella Street, Rabat (9900 7070) 204 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S
This stunning, secluded inlet is ideal for swimming and snorkelling. Besides the narrow rocky inlet, there is also a tiny pebbled beach which provides a gentle slope into the water. The bay is also popular with divers due to its caves in the cliff face and a nearby shipwreck, and is famous as the setting for the Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie film ‘By the Sea’. Mgarr ix-Xini Street, Sannat
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Ramla Bay
Ta’ Dbiegi Crafts Village
Ramla Bay Considered among locals to be one of the best beaches in Gozo, this wide stretch of beach, with its distinct, red-coloured sand, is known as Ramla l-Hamra, meaning red sand. It’s the perfect spot for swimming, snorkelling and sunbathing, and the beach also has a few cafés and kiosks set up nearby. L/O Xaghra
San Blas Bay Smaller in size but brimming with beauty is San Blas Bay, which also has red-coloured sand, similar to that found at Ramla Bay. Located at the end of a valley, the last part of which is closed to vehicles, San Blas Bay is a little trickier to get to, making it less crowded and a lot more peaceful on those hot summer days. L/O Nadur
Ta’ Dbiegi Crafts Village Ta’ Dbiegi – the oldest crafts village on the island – is spread over a vast area and served as the British soldiers’ quarters during World War II. Today it showcases numerous artisanal, high-quality crafts, and visitors may observe craftspersons at work and shop for products such as metalwork, pottery, candles, leather and silverware. Frangisk Portelli Street, Gharb (2155 3977, www.gozoartisans.com)
Ta’ Nikol Gallery – Bejta Artisan This contemporary artisan gallery is set in a beautiful, old stable in the heart of Gozo’s capital, and exhibits the work of over 20 local artists and craftspeople, which are available for purchase. 43, Mons Guzeppi Farrugia Street, Rabat (7999 4902, www.bejtaartisan.webs.com)
Vini e Capricci by Abrahams
Vini e Capricci by Abrahams This recently refurbished gourmet food and wine shop offers an impressive range of artisanal foods and beverages, including 100 different wines from 68 international wineries, as well as premium chocolates and biscuits, salamis, olive oil, Italian cheeses, whiskies, artisanal meats, fresh-frozen pasta and champagnes. Gozo Agricultural Village, Mgarr Road, Xewkija (2156 3231, www.abrahams.com.mt)
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Black Cat Café
Ta’ Frenc
CAFÉS
Bellusa Café Known for serving some of the best coffee in Rabat, Bellusa is located on Rabat’s Independence Square and is run by the sons of the original founder. The half-a-century of history and tradition can be tasted in the delicious range of home-made dishes on the menu. 34, Independence Square, Rabat (9940 7134)
Black Cat Café This intimate, artisan café is a must for foodies, particularly those looking for delicious vegan or gluten-free options. The selection of unique dishes, created by the Australianborn owner Paula, has earned it a following locally for being both delicious and healthy. Vajringa Street, Rabat (2156 9240)
Café Reale Café Reale is located close to the charming village of Xaghra’s parish church, and is a popular spot for enjoying a hearty breakfast or a light lunch from the café’s menu that includes wraps, salads, pizzas and pies. There is also a range of desserts and cakes crafted by the in-house Italian patissier. 29, Victory Square, Xaghra (2155 3887)
Captain Spriss This little Italian café is the ideal location at which to enjoy a coffee with a croissant or a fresh, home-made cake. It is also well-loved for its friendly service and for its delicious selection of food such as sandwiches, omelettes and burgers. 66, Main Gate Street, Rabat (2156 9112)
206 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S
FRENCH
Ta’ Frenc Considered one of the best fine-dining restaurants on the Maltese islands, this award-winning eatery is situated within a charming farmhouse overlooking Marsalforn valley. Besides its idyllic location, the restaurant’s enduring popularity is also due to its mouth-watering menu of wellsourced seafood, meats and traditional Mediterranean dishes with a twist. Ghajn Damma Street, Xaghra (2155 3888, www.tafrencrestaurant.com)
MALTESE
Maxokk This small, family-run bakery is located in an easy-tomiss side street in Nadur, and yet it is so renowned that visitors seek it out to enjoy its legendary food. Maxokk’s main claim to fame is its signature take on the Maltese traditional ftira, which bears resemblance to a pizza, but has a character all of its own. San Gakbu Street, Nadur (2155 0014, www.maxokkbakery.com)
Mekren Bakery As a family-run bakery in Nadur, Mekren Bakery specialises in local ftira (pizza-like Gozitan delight), pizza and qassata (closed pie filled with ricotta or other stuffing) – all popular take-away snacks for those on their way to the beach. The baker also makes some of Gozo’s best bread using the traditional techniques of hand-shaping and cooking in a limestone wood-burning oven. Hanaq Street, Nadur (2155 2342)
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The Boathouse
Brookies Restaurant
MEDITERRANEAN
Beppe’s Restaurant Featuring an open kitchen with a wood-burning grill, a chef’s table and aged meat on display, Beppe’s enjoys an informal atmosphere created by owner and chef Joseph Spiteri, while also prioritising quality, flavour and presentation, as well as excellent service. Santa Margerita Square, Sannat (2750 0567)
The Boathouse The Boathouse has built a reputation for providing a unique culinary experience along with friendly service within a beautiful seaside location. It is especially renowned for its lovely range of fresh fish, plus weeklychanging specialities and a selection of vegan, vegetarian, lactose-free and gluten-free dishes. Xlendi Bay (2156 9153, www.theboathousegozo.com)
Brookies Restaurant Brookies is set within a beautifully refurbished 300-yearold farmhouse. Its décor is impressive – look out for the circular, well-stocked wine cellar – and the flavours offered on the menu are mouth-watering. Make sure to also head upstairs to the Music Café Lounge which offers stunning views of the Cittadella. 1, 2, Wied Sara Street, Rabat (2155 0924, www.brookiesgozo.com)
D-Bar This family-run restaurant, pizzeria and bar in the heart of the village of Qala is brimming with charm and tradition, and features fascinating, old photographs of
Ic-Cima
the neighbouring localities on the walls. The simple and reasonably priced menu is personally prepared by the owners and showcases the best of local cuisine. St Joseph Square, Qala (2155 6242, www.dbargozo.com)
Ic-Cima Promising a breath-taking view of Xlendi Bay and its surrounding cliffs, this rooftop restaurant in the village of Xlendi is famed for its delicious fresh fish dishes. Ic-Cima’s menu also includes a variety of meat cuts, pastas and local dishes, as well as a selection of home-made desserts. St Simon Street, Xlendi (2155 8407, www.cimarestaurant.com)
Il-Panzier Specialising in Sicilian cuisine, Il-Panzier is decorated with tables made of Sicilian ceramic, and offers Sicilian wine, extra virgin olive oil, wild oregano, pistachios and ricotta. Beyond the classic pasta, meat and fish dishes, there are also gluten-free, vegan and vegetarian options available. 39, Charity Street, Rabat (2155 9979)
Mojo’s Mojo’s is a popular pit-stop for a plentiful breakfast or a mid-morning snack such as crumpets, waffles and pancakes. The menu also features more wholesome options ideal for a diner-style lunch, particularly its wide range of crunchy, good-quality salads, which may be accompanied by a fresh smoothie or a side of uniquely seasoned fries. Fortunato Mizzi Street, Rabat (2156 9596)
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Qbajjar Bar & Restaurant
Oleander Restaurant Located in the centre of the Xaghra village square, this welcoming restaurant is the ideal lunchtime pit-stop following a visit to the nearby Ggantija Temples. Diners may choose from a variety of Mediterranean dishes on the menu including stewed rabbit or fresh fish, and finish off with an indulgent dessert. 10, Victory Square, Xaghra (2155 7230)
Osteria Scottadito Boasting a typical cucina Romagnola, this charming Italian osteria in the heart of Nadur offers a creative menu of home-made fresh pasta, meat and fresh fish dishes, as well as vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. The restaurant’s outdoor tables are especially popular in the summertime. 20, Madre Gemma Camilleri Street, Nadur (2733 3000)
Patrick’s Lounge, Restaurant & Steakhouse The multi-award-winning Patrick’s is well-loved for its delicious menu that is crafted by its namesake, chef patron Patrick, and his expert team. The extensive and carefully sourced wine list has also been curated to complement the mouth-watering flavours on the menu. Europe Street, Rabat (2156 6667, www.patrickstmun.com)
Qbajjar Bar & Restaurant This eatery offers both indoor and outdoor seating so that diners can take in the scenic, rocky stretches it faces, leading to stunning sea views. The menu is inspired by traditional Maltese and Mediterranean cuisines, and 210 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S
Patrick’s Lounge, Restaurant & Steakhouse
features fresh pasta dishes, pizzas, meats, fresh fish and salads, as well as home-made ice-cream. 23, Xwejni Road, Marsalforn (2155 1124, www.qbajjarrestaurant.com)
Rew Rew This pine-shaded restaurant has just a few tables next to the beach and clear waters of Mgarr ix-Xini, but it offers a wonderful selection of fresh fish and seafood such as calamari, prawns and rockfish, depending on the catch of the day. It’s an ideal spot for a light lunch by the sea. Mgarr ix-Xini (7985 4007)
Ristorante Arzella Following a recent refurbishment, Arzella serves excellent fish, meat and vegetarian food within a beautiful indooroutdoor setting, with the Mediterranean Sea as its backdrop. The menu at this foodie staple in Gozo also features a tempting range of home-made desserts and an extensive wine list. Ghar Qawqla Street, Marsalforn (2155 4662, www.ristorantearzella.com)
Sicilia Bella This portside Sicilian-inspired eatery is ideal both for a relaxed lunch or an indulgent evening meal. Taking the finest fresh ingredients and cooking them with simplicity, Sicilia Bella specialises in excellent fish and seafood dishes, although meat and poultry dishes are also available. Manuel De Vilhena Street, Mgarr (2156 3588)
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Ta’ Philip
Tmun Mgarr
Ta’ Karolina
BARS
Named after the nearby Karolina Cave by the Xlendi waterfront, Ta’ Karolina is a family-run, award-winning restaurant. Apart from the generously-portioned and exquisite fresh seafood dishes that have been inspired by its seaside location, the restaurant also boasts a selection of tantalising home-made desserts.
Gleneagles Bar
L-Ghar ta’ Karolina Street, Xlendi Bay (2155 9675)
Ta’ Philip Committed to supporting locally-sourced, seasonal produce, Ta’ Philip prepares its menu using fine ingredients, traditional cooking methods and a woodburning oven. The downstairs Candle Lounge offers diners a relaxing vibe for an after-dinner drink from its wellstocked wine cellar.
Gleneagles Bar offers old-fashioned, good-value, tasty drinks – including the signature Gleneagles Special cocktail – friendly staff, delightful fishing-inspired décor, as well as breath-taking views from its terrace across Mgarr Harbour. 10, Victory Street, Mgarr (2155 6543)
The Grapes Wine Bar The vibrant Grapes Wine Bar is situated on the charming square in front of St George’s Basilica in Rabat. Apart from its vast range of beverages, including locally-produced craft beers, there is also a menu of tasty platters and breakfast options. St George’s Square, Rabat (7947 3536)
29, St Anthony Street, Ghajnsielem (2156 1965)
Ta’ Tona Bar & Restaurant Known for its hearty food, quaint atmosphere, and excellent service, this family-run restaurant is highly sought-after. The menu of Mediterranean classics includes fresh, seasonal seafood and fish, as well as meat and poultry dishes that can be washed down with a bottle from the carefully curated wine list. Manoel De Vilhena Street, Mgarr (2156 1967)
Tmun Mgarr This established, family-run restaurant has a loyal following among Gozitans and Maltese alike. The menu, prepared by the talented Paul Buttigieg and his team, is varied, seasonal and sublime, so whether it’s fresh fish, seafood, slow-cooked beef or gluten-free or vegan options you’re after, you’re in for a treat. Martinu Garces Street, Mgarr (2156 6276, www.tmunmgarr.com)
212 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S
Horatio’s Upper Deck This cosy bar located near the ferry landing in Mgarr may be small, but it is always busy. As well as offering a great selection of drinks and food items including local platters, Horatio’s also welcomes live bands to perform on its openair terrace. Manoel De Vilhena Street, Mgarr (2156 6669)
Piùtrentanove Lounge Bar Offering a taste of Tuscany in Gozo, this relaxed and comfortable bar is owned by Italian natives Filippo and Giacomo. If you’re feeling peckish, the bar menu also serves a range of delicious Mediterranean fare such as pizzas, fresh pastas and freshly-grilled fish and meat. 65, Marina Street, Marsalforn (2720 1515)
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BRIAN GRECH
SLEEP
Duke Boutique Hotel Cesca Boutique Hotel
Cesca Boutique Hotel
Grand Hotel
This 18-room boutique hotel exudes authentic Mediterranean hospitality and traditional charm. Its location at the edge of the picturesque Xlendi Valley affords guests remarkable views from the balconies of its luxury rooms and suites, which have been furnished to high standards.
With its stunning vistas of the Mediterranean Sea and Mgarr Harbour from most of the 93 rooms, this four-star hotel is ideal for those hoping to watch the spectacular sunset each night. Grand Hotel also offers a range of facilities including the Elemis Spa, swimming pools, a sauna and jacuzzi.
Xlendi Valley, Munxar (7999 9984, www.cesca.com.mt)
Mgarr Harbour (2216 1000 www.grandhotelmalta.com)
The Downtown Hotel
Hotel Calypso
Just a few minutes’ walk from the city centre, this threestar hotel is an affordable place to stay near the many local attractions. There are also many on-site facilities, including a rooftop pool deck with integrated jacuzzi, a kids’ area and even a bowling alley.
Named after the mythical siren in Homer’s ‘Odyssey’, this hotel within Marsalforn Bay offers 100 rooms, which are each equipped with all amenities needed for a comfortable stay. There is also a swimming pool and deck, as well as four in-house venues in which to wine and dine.
Europe Street, Rabat (2210 8000, www.downtown.com.mt)
Duke Boutique Hotel Boasting a fantastic location on Rabat’s Republic Street, the Duke Boutique Hotel offers easy access to the rest of the capital, as well as 30 comfortable and well-equipped rooms and suites. Many rooms also enjoy stunning views of the surrounding areas and of the nearby Villa Rundle Gardens. Republic Street, Rabat (2779 9100, www.thedukehotelgozo.com) 214 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S
Marsalforn Bay (2156 2000, www.hotelcalypsogozo.com)
Hotel San Andrea Besides offering guests picture-perfect sea views from its large terrace, this quaint hotel also provides all modern amenities such as Wi-Fi, a TV area, air-conditioning and coffee-making facilities, as well as delicious Mediterranean food from its in-house restaurant. Xlendi Promenade, Xlendi (2156 5555, www.hotelsanandrea.com)
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Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz
Il-Logga Boutique Hotel
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Quaint Hotel Nadur
Hotel Ta’ Cenc & Spa
Maria Giovanna Guesthouse
The sought-after Hotel Ta’ Cenc & Spa is a firm favourite with locals and tourists who wish to escape a busy lifestyle. Built on an extensive and luxurious estate upon Gozo’s highest point, this isolated hotel offers two outdoor swimming pools and a lagoon-style pool within the spa.
This authentic Gozitan guesthouse is situated just a stone’s throw from the pretty Marsalforn promenade. Its 15 air-conditioned bedrooms are furnished with rustic iron beds and antique furniture, while the inviting courtyard is perfect for guests to relax in the Gozo sunshine.
Sannat (2219 1000, www.tacenc.com)
Il-Logga Boutique Hotel This pretty, family-run boutique hotel aims to provide guests with a truly Mediterranean experience. All the rooms are spacious, bright and well-equipped, with balconies or terraces that make the most of the stunning views. An authentic taste of the Med may also be found at the on-site restaurant. Church Street, Xaghra (2155 1210, www.illogga.com)
Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz Located in one of the island’s most picturesque valleys, the Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz is a five-star hideaway resort that offers excellent levels of service, luxury and comfort. Beyond the 140 rooms and spacious suites, the relaxation and pampering continue through the in-house spa, vast surrounding gardens and extensive pools.
41, Rabat Road, Marsalforn (2155 3630, www.tamariagozo.com)
Murella Murella’s 24 rooms are individually designed according to themes inspired by local sights and traditional Maltese motifs. They feature beautiful touches such as designer lamps and ornate rugs, and each room is fully-equipped with all modern amenities. Marsalforn Bay (2155 0340, www.murellaliving.com)
Quaint Hotel Nadur The village core location of this aptly-named hotel in Nadur has inspired the design of each of its 12 rooms, with minimalist and antique furniture contrasting with the hotel’s traditional façade. Guests can also look forward to a delicious home-cooked English or continental breakfast. December Street, Nadur (2210 8500, www.quainthotelsgozo.com)
Ir-Rokon Street, San Lawrenz (2211 0000, www.kempinski.com/gozo) Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 217
0
1
,
101
Legend
2
3 km
1
50
52 56 181
Ħad-Dingli
51
56 20 1
Il-Buskett
202 X3 6
9
38
Ħaż-Żebbuġ
61
72
74
Ħaġar Qim
74
74
11
7
71 73 74
7
11
Ħal Luqa
Ħal Safi
8
21
15
21
X4
88 226
6
11
9,
85
X4
Ħal Far
210 82
88, 22
135
Birżebbuġa
Il-Gudja
135
Ħal Għaxaq
,226
Santa Luċija
8 0 ,83
204
323
3
Ix-Xgħajra
0
124 124
80
92, 12
4
2
L-Imġarr
N
302 303 323 306
322 330
312 322 303 322 323 303 322
302 303 305 306 307 308 310 311 312 313 323 330
1 2 3 4 13 13A 14 15 16 21 22 24 25 31 32 35 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 56 58 58A 61 62 63 64 71 72 73 74 80 81 82 83 84 85 88 91 92 93 94 122 130 133 238 250 260 X4 Malta International Airport 117 119 135 201 X1 X2 X3 X4 2 3 4 124 213 Il-Birgu 80 81 119 210 X4 Birżebbuġa 71 201 Blue Grotto 31 45 48 186 203 212 221 223 Buġibba / Il-Qawra 280 X3 221 222 250 X1 X1A 41 42 101 201 Ċirkewwa Ferry 56 186 202 201 Ta’ Qali 52 56 181 201 Ħad-Dingli 223 225 44 101 201 Golden Bay 1 124 213 L-Isla 213 N3 3 201 Il-Kalkara 91 92 93 119 124 135 201 204 N91 Marsaskala 81 85 119 210 Marsaxlokk 22 31 32 109 110 117 120 121 Mater Dei Hospital 122 135 181 182 204 206 201 201 209 233 238 213 218 226 201 201 210 201 50 51 52 53 56 109 181 182 L-Imdina 186 201 202 250 X3 221 222 250 41 42 49 101 201 Il-Mellieħa X1 X1A 201 44 101 213 L-Imġarr 14 120 Paceville 50 51 52 53 56 109 181 182 Ir-Rabat 186 201 202 250 X3 13 14 15 16 21 201 202 204 Tas-Sliema 201 201 222 225 201 233 X3 212 81 82 201 206 Ħal Tarxien 201 71 73 74 218 117 Iż-Żurrieq
Valletta
MALTA - Index of places served
L-Għarb Marsalforn L-Imġarr In-Nadur Il-Qala Ir-Ramla Ta’ Sannat Santa Luċija / Ta’ Kerċem Ta’ Pinu Church / L-Għasri Ix-Xagħra Ix-Xlendi Iż-Żebbuġ Ix-Xewkija Il-Munxar
Kemmunett Id-Dwejra (Cominotto)
301 309 311 308 310 301 302 303 302 305 313 308 307 306 309 301 305
KEMMUNA GOZO - Index of places served (COMINO)
Il-Qala
Ir-Rabat (Victoria)
322 323 301 303
303
303
www.freytagberndt.com
St Thomas Bay
91 92 93 119 124 135 204 93
32
In-Nadur
302
GĦAWDEX (GOZO)
Date: 19th April 2017 © FREYTAG-BERNDT & ARTARIA KG, VIENNA
Delimara
Marsaxlokk Market
Marsaxlokk
Pretty Bay
85
81 85
21
13 9, 11
5
4
20
91, ,93
92
Ħaż-Żabbar
94 120 121
94
Fort Rinella
81,119
6 84, 20
301
323
Għajnsielem
Ix-Xewkija
302 , 303
206 Marsaskala 84 Iż-Żejtun (Wied il-Għajn)
Tarxien Temples Ħal Tarxien
120,121
307
30 2, 32 2
302
Ramla Bay
Ta’ Kola Windmill Il-Ġgantija (Ġgantija Temples)
307
IL-BAĦAR MEDITERRAN (MEDITERRANEAN SEA)
305
03
1,3
30
3 Il-Kalkara
213
213 1 Il-Fgura 90,91 92,93,94
Raħal Ġdid (Paola)
2,3,4
(Cospicua)
X1A Bormla
1 124 213
(Senglea)
4
Il-Belt VALLETTA
Il-Birgu (Vittoriosa)
3 13
3
32
2
Ir-Rabat (Victoria) 30
307
310 322
Marsalforn Bay
Ix-Xagħra
309 Marsalforn
Il-Munxar Ta’ Sannat
L-Isla 2
Ta´Xbiex
83
30
306,3
15 21 202 203 212 222 225
0
, 11
21
1
Ta’ Kerċem
313
8,
Tas-Sliema
6
4,1
Il-Gżira
Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum
0
12
Il-Marsa
Iż-Żurrieq 73
Il-Ħnejja (Blue Grotto)
Il-Qrendi
Ħaġar Qim L-Imnajdra Temples (Mnajdra Temples)
63
64
58
56 5 Tal-Pietà 8A
L-Imsida 50,54,
X1 X2 X3 119 201 117 Malta Int. Airport 218 72 L-Imqabba
9
61,62
63
64
2,53
San Ġwann 32
A,1
13
St George’s Bay San Ġiljan (St Julian’s)
X2
22 Il-Balluta 21
0,1
11
120
University Mater Dei Hospital
X1 X2 X3 X4 61 62 63 64 74 110 120 121 135 204 206 209 210 218 226
Is-Siġġiewi
62 209
58 51,5
22
106
Ħal Qormi
20
4
14
306 330
313
2
31
30 31
308
Iż-Żebbuġ
L-Għasri
8
30
Santa Luċija
Ix-Xlendi Xlendi Bay
Is-Swieqi
16
Pembroke
233 16 25 35 2 2
Ħal Balzan Birkirkara
Ħ’Attard
3
14
,73
109
202, 203
L-Iklin
43
41-49 203, 25 0,260 280 54
,182 181
Ras Bajjada
10
1
20
61
,5 50,52,5 3
49
Ħal Għargħur
46 260
,10
13 X1
13A 14 103 110 120 121
71
Għar Lapsi
9
10
109
186
13
Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq
3
10
In-Naxxar Mosta Dome Il-Mosta
47
106 54
186
Ta’ Qali
56
Buskett Gardens
Ir-Rabat
53 186 201 202
L-Imdina
182
Ta' Qali National Stadium
25 0
Tarġa Gap
49
X1A
25
Id-Dwejra
311
San Lawrenz
Azure Window
312
L-Għarb
Ta’ Pinu
9 30
310
a
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MALTA
51
L-Imtarfa
1B
Burmarrad
X1,X
Il-Bidnija
38
44, 2
103
Il-Wardija
Is-Salina
X 1,
2, 2
Il-Qawra 212 , 22
X1 X1A X2 22 25 31 32 106 110 117 120 122 135 181 182 204 206 209 210 213 218 226 233 238 260 280
5 17,13
Dingli Cliffs
109
Ta’ Ħaġrat
101 238
Skorba Temples
A
X1
San Pawl il-Baħar (St Paul’s Bay)
Buġibba
X3 31 45 48 186 203 212 221 223 280
Selmunett (St Paul’s Islands)
4
Bus routes Bus routes only summer Number of bus route Place of departure/arrival Key bus stop Sales and information office Bus interchange Tourist information Heritage site Place of interest Airport Hospital Ferry Beach
1
Il-Baħrija
109
Il-Ġnejna
01
L-Imġarr
Ġnejna Bay
1
25
223, 2
Il-Mellieħa
Mellieħa Bay
44, 10
101
49
49
Għajn Tuffieħa
Golden Bay
44 223 225
Popeye Village Il-Prajjet (Anchor Bay)
22 1
L-Għadira
101
X1B
IL-BAĦAR MEDITERRAN (MEDITERRANEAN SEA)
47
1
Paradise Bay
202
6
49
181, 56
54,106
305,30
Iċ-Ċirkewwa
2 20 1,
6,18 52,5
109
0
Ċirkewwa Ferry
62,109
25, 35
31
L-Armier (Armier Bay)
218
13
305
X1 X1A 41 42 101 221 222 250
,88
1
73, 1
,85
20
,82
218
80
80,82 , 85
7
21 6
11
2 0,2
201
31 71
3 72
2, 5
3
51 ,X
218 Y O U R E S S E N T I A L G U I D E T O T H E M A LT E S E I S L A N D S 18
X1,X
X2
X3
1
31 ,12
5,48,186, X3 ,42,4 ,41 31 203,250,280 94
0
120
26
206
9
0 ,25 103 31 4
11
2 22 , 260 81,8
210
1A
16
124
135
ġa Im L-
,X ww
91
to
41,42 X1
B, ,X1 e Ferr y to Ċirk
119
rr y Fe
2
32 303
rr
MaltaInsider2019/2020
GETTING AROUND
11 9
X4