7 minute read
England: Oxford Inspiration
Oxford is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Its centre is a showcase of European building styles, from the medieval to art deco, by way of Tudor, neoclassical, baroque and neo-Gothic.
We have the city’s ancient university to thank for the everunfolding architectural panoramas that are found down narrow winding lanes and along its broad prosperous streets. Divided for centuries into over 30 colleges, the centre of Oxford was developed competitively, with each college trying to outdo its rivals by adopting the fashionable styles of the day. The neoclassical Sheldonian Theatre by Sir Christopher Wren was based on the Theatre of Marcellus in Rome, the idiosyncratic western façade of All Souls’ College, a masterpiece of English baroque, was by Wren’s pupil, Nicholas Hawksmoor. The neo-Gothic Museum of Natural History was directly inspired by the writings and drawings of John Ruskin, the greatest architectural critic of the Victorian era.
Oxford is not just buildings, however. Any visit to this city will result in you walking in the footsteps of some of the greatest writers in the English language. Oscar Wilde was a student at Magdalen College, Lewis Carroll at Christ Church, Evelyn Waugh at Hertford, Graham Greene was at Balliol, J. R. R. Tolkien and Philip Pullman were both Exeter men, and Iris Murdoch was at Somerville.
Bicycles outside the Radcliffe Camera
Oxford has also produced 20 Nobel Laureates and 28 Prime Ministers, with Christ Church (the college founded by Henry VIII's chancellor, Cardinal Wolsey) adding 13 ambitious men into Downing Street, the highest tally of any British university college.
Yet it is probably for its place in film and fiction that Oxford is most loved and recognised today. Walk these leafy lanes or stroll through public spaces, such as Radcliffe Square, Broad Street and Old Schools Quad, and you’ll recognise one scene after another. John Le Carré’s Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy was twice filmed in Oxford, so was Philip Pullman’s His Dark Materials. Evelyn Waugh’s Brideshead Revisited has now been filmed three times in the city. There are also two TV crime series, Inspector Morse and Endeavour (both featuring the same fictional detective) that have been filmed in Oxford from 1987 to 2000 and from 2021 onwards. Even the Harry Potter franchise spent some time in Oxford with the Bodleian Library, Christ Church and New College all used as locations in the early Potter films before everything was moved to Warner Brothers Studios, 50 miles away in Leavesden.
At Exeter College Dream Escape's Blue Badge Guide, Sally Strange arranges a private evensong for guests in the 14th century chapel. "It's a truly spine-tingling evening not available to the general public,"she explains, "Followed by a delightful dinner in the college dining hall."
Or why not take a visit to Merton College library? Founded in 1373, this is the oldest academic library in the world that’s still in use today.
A private tour of New College, Hugh Grant’s alma mater, takes in the college treasury where the curator unlocks the metal-grilled gate so you can view the gleaming collection of college Treasures and Chattels as well as silverware. The beautiful chapel of New College contains a painting by El Greco as well as impressive stone reredos and medieval misericords. The college choir have recorded commercial CDs in this lovely space, and they sing evensong here every day during term time.
If you love wine, then a trip to St John’s College in order to tour the extensive cellars is a must. These stretch all the way under St Giles, an ancient, wide street that leads north out of Oxford. These cellars originally belonged to a Cistercian monastery that was demolished in the 16th century to make way for St John’s, so they are in effect the oldest part of the college.
Visits are arranged to the Radcliffe Observatory too, a beautiful octagonal, neoclassical building based on the Tower of the Winds in Athens. It was completed in 1794 and served the study of astronomy at Oxford until 1934 when its telescope was moved to London and the observatory to South Africa.
Radcliffe Observatory, View from the top of the tower in St Marys Church
Christ Church Hall
Sheldonian Theatre
By far one of the most impressive private tours in Oxford is to Duke Humfrey's Library, named after one of King Henry V’s younger brothers. When he died in 1447 Duke Humfrey donated his extensive collection of medieval books to Oxford. This particular tour also takes in the nearby Divinity School, which is a building in the lofty Perpendicular style popular in the 15-century. It was constructed for lectures and discussions on theology. As part of an extended guided tour, taking in Divinity School, Convocation House, Duke Humfrey's Library, and the Upper Reading Room, you are able visit the circular Radcliffe Camera. The ‘Rad Cam’ was built 1737 – 49 to house a science library, and is now world-famous as a perfect expression of northern baroque architectural style. Many uniquely Oxford experiences can also be enjoyed at your leisure. Punting is a pastime that is popular at both Oxford and Cambridge universities. There are few better ways to pass a summer afternoon than to enjoy a picnic hamper and a bottle of Champagne on a punt and float down Oxford’s Cherwell River.
Also on the river, the Cherwell Boat House stages atmospheric music evenings in its riverside restaurant.
When it comes to inspiring vistas, the climb to the top of the University Church of St Mary the Virgin (known to students as SMV) rewards the visitor with views across – and even into – many of Oxford’s historic colleges.
One of the best high teas in Oxford is at the imposing Randolph Hotel but if you prefer somewhere smaller, but just as glamorous, go for coffee at the Grand Café on Oxford’s High Street. Here in 1874 the wife of a grocer called Frank Cooper made 76 pounds of marmalade to her own secret recipe. It sold very well and thus Frank Cooper’s Oxford Marmalade was born.
For a satisfying English pint, try the 13th-century Turf Tavern, which is hidden away down the cobbled alleyways that run between Holywell Street and New College Lane.
On your way you’ll pass the tiny Bath Place Hotel, which was where Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor stayed – as incognito as they could manage - when he was playing Faustus at the Oxford Playhouse and she was playing Helen of Troy.
Burton had been a student at Oxford’s Exeter College on a six-month RAF scholarship during World War II. When he became the highest-paid movie star of his generation he returned to Oxford to perform Doctor Faustus with the Oxford University Drama Society. He also donated a lot of money to build the Burton Taylor Studio Theatre on Gloucester Street. Oxford is very much about beautiful buildings but it is also about the generations of talented people who have lived, loved and worked here.
Punting in Oxford
WHERE TO STAY
The Randolph Oxford’s palatial neogothic hotel was controversial when it opened in 1866. The city was not ready for a French chateau opposite the venerable Ashmolean Museum. Nowadays the Randolph is a five-star Oxford institution, a place for high teas and grand dinners. Many episodes of Inspector Morse were filmed in what the hotel now calls its Morse Bar.
The Randolph
The Old Parsonage This 17th-century inn next to St Giles Church was once home to Oscar Wilde when he returned late to Magdalen College and found his rooms had been assigned to another student. Room 25 is where it’s believed he lodged. This is the cosiest of Oxford’s five-star hotels, with 35 bedrooms, and an intimate bar with cosy fireplaces.
The Old Parsonage
The Old Bank Sitting grandly on Oxford’s busy High Street is this imaginatively converted former bank, decorated with a striking collection of modern art. The Quod Restaurant & Bar on its ground floor is one of the liveliest eating spaces in Oxford, while the booklined Library is a great place to relax. The view from the penthouse (Room 1) across to the University Church, Brasenose College and the Radcliffe Camera is simply the best in Oxford.
Old Bank Hotel
Find out more
Sally Strange, Blue Badge Guide "Oxford is the most stunningly beautiful city – arguably one of the most architecturally beautiful cities in the world. Having just taken clients there recently, I know that it delivers one 'wow' moment after another. College after college, it is almost visual overload as you walk down the lanes and new vistas appear. Around every turn in every lane is a new spectacular view."
⬥ sally@dreamescape.co.uk
→ dreamescape.co.uk
Lead image: IMAGE © VISITBRITAIN/GUY RICHARDSON
WORDS | ADRIAN MOURBY
