18 minute read
Ireland: The County of the Gaels
Wild and untamed, dramatic and spectacular, Donegal never fails to take your breath away.
Recently named the coolest place in the world by National Geographic, Donegal is the epitome of natural beauty, a remote wonderland that, in parts, can feel almost otherworldly. But there’s a vibrant personality in the mix too, with a hefty dose of cheeky charm that captivates anyone who pays the county a visit.
Located in the most north-westerly corner of Ireland, Donegal is the fourth largest county in Ireland, and home to some of the country’s wildest scenery. There’s the striking Derryveagh Mountains, the soothing shores of Lough Eske, and hundreds of spectacular white sand beaches that wouldn’t look out of place on a Caribbean island. This is the starting point of the Wild Atlantic Way, and there are 1,100 kilometres of coastline to explore, whether you want to wander along the clifftops at sunset, or take a dip in the crystal clear waters of the Atlantic.
The landscape is spectacular and bracing, from the sheer granite walls of some of Europe’s highest sea cliffs at Slieve League, to the Northern Lights you can see dancing in clear winter skies, to the millions of seabirds gathering in great estuaries. But it’s not all about the coast. Inland, there's enchanting countryside and captivating villages, where you’ll find the characteristic charm that Donegal locals are known for. As Holly Mackie, co-founder of Dream Escape, says, “The locals are delightful and will welcome you with open arms and leave lasting memories.”
Life moves at a slower pace in Donegal. This isn’t a place to rush from one hotspot to the next. It’s a place where you can get chatting to someone in a café, and learn about an incredible hidden beach that no one else has heard of. It’s a place where you can lose hours wandering through a spectacular national park, or get sidetracked on a road trip when you have to constantly pull over to admire the view.
Above -Tory Island; Lead image Fanad Head Lighthouse
Some people call it Ireland’s forgotten county, and in some ways that’s true – but in the best possible sense. The land here is beautifully raw, untarnished by mass tourism and undiscovered in so many ways. If you truly want to get off the beaten track, and explore the pure essence of Ireland, Donegal is the place to be.
Here are just some of the many highlights of Donegal experiences, from the north to the south...
INISHOWEN PENINSULA
Some of Donegal’s wildest scenery can be found right at the top of the county, which is actually the most northern point of the whole island. The Inishowen Peninsula is home to some stunning sights, from the precipitous cliffs and rocky headlands, to the swathes of pristine beaches.
With the stormy Atlantic Ocean as a neighbour, the area is renowned for epic coastal scenery, thriving birdlife and an intriguing history. There’s dramatic scenery and rugged flair, from the turbulent seas to clouds rolling across the sky and seabirds whirling in the air. The sea here is scattered with shipwrecks, and Star Wars fans may recognise the location from scenes in Millennium Falcon (part of which still remains…)
Donkeys by Tranarossan Bay
Grianán of Aileach
Beach Horse Riding with Dunfanaghy Stables, Dunfanaghy
In fact, one of the crew who worked on Star Wars just happens to be a mountain leader and tour guide, and you can take a private tour with him to learn about both this beautiful area and his exclusive behind-the-scenes experiences.
Bren Whelan was involved in the movie's production from the early stages, thanks to his expert knowledge of Malin Head and the Inishowen peninsula. “Specifically, my role was to look after Daisy Ridley and Mark Hamill,” he says. “I’d be lying under the Millennium Falcon in case Daisy fell off the platform, or looking after Mark Hamill on the edge of the cliffs at Malin Head, as he burned the Jedi tree and text.”
But the actors loved the additional bits of Irish knowledge they picked up as they worked together. “Daisy was planning on being a zoologist, so she was really interested in learning about the local marine life, and the heritage,” says Bren.
Dream Escape's founders, Holly and husband David, took a family tour with Bren when they were last in Donegal, and they were blown away by Bren's expertise, particularly their Star Wars obsessed boy. “Bren is extremely knowledgeable and our youngest loved the walking tour of all the famous locations,” says Holly. Bren also has Donegal tweed Jedi robes and lightsabres to hand, to make things even more thrilling.
David Tobin and Holly Mackie, founders of Dream Escape, with their youngest son, outside Farren's Bar, Malin Head, where they met some of the cast from Star Wars
There's also the opportunity to take a private boat ride from Culdaff, Greencastle or Rathmullan for guests to go shark-, orca- or dolphin spotting. If you’re really lucky, you might even catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights. While viewing the Aurora Boreal is dependent on the right climatic conditions, Inishowen is often graced with the phenomenal light show.
This corner of the country is also fast becoming known for its excellent food. Foodies will enjoy classes with the Donegal chef Brian McDermott at his cookery school in Moville.
The road out of the Inishowen Peninsula cuts through some 3,000 acres of land reclaimed from the sea in Burt, and makes for an excellent spot for bird watching and walks. Head up the hill to the renowned Grianán of Aileach, a restored prehistoric circular fort with simply spectacular views. This feat of architecture was even referenced by Greek astronomer and geographer, Ptolemy, in his 2nd-century map of the world.
If you’re interested in history, this is a fascinating region with a story around every corner. Back in the 6th century, Europe had been overrun by pagan tribes but was in the midst of being Christianised again by a resurgent Irish church. Saint Colmcille was the pre-eminent figure in this period, not just in Ireland but in all of Christendom. His story is told through beautifully reproduced artefacts and panels at the Colmcille Heritage Centre, alongside artwork from local artists. For another intriguing exhibition, make a beeline for Glebe House & Gallery: the Derek Hill Collection, which houses works from artists such as Picasso and Kokoshka.
You can also enjoy a golfing experience like no other at Ballyliffin, located right on the edge of the peninsula, with views out to the Atlantic Ocean. There's a chance to indulge in a round of golf at one of the two beautiful links courses spread over 365 acres of picturesque dune land.
Ballyliffiin golf course, Gweedore
MALIN HEAD
The northernmost tip of Ireland, Malin Head is astoundingly beautiful. Here, you can see some of the largest sand dunes in Europe, enjoy a walk along the strand, go fishing, swim in the shimmering water, take some incredible photos or study the unique rock formations.
“Malin Head is a real place about time,” says Bren Whelan. “It’s the start of Ireland’s geographical timeline – there are rocks there that are 1,780 million years old. You really can travel through time.”
A circuit of Malin Head brings you around the coast to Banba’s Crown, where a derelict building known as The Tower was once used as a signal station connecting America and Europe. From Banba's Crown, admire Inishtrahull Island and its majestic lighthouse to the north east.
Further east on a clear day, you can even spot the hills of Scotland. And hikers will love the trail along the cliffs to Hell’s Hole, a remarkable subterranean cavern into which the tide rushes with great force. Nearby, Devil’s Bridge is a picturesque natural arch that makes for an incredible photo opportunity.
Donegal is all about dramatic coastlines, and one of the most famous is at Fanad Head, which is also one of the most stunning parts of the whole country. This wildly exposed headland is a wonderland of wildlife, including grey seals, dolphins and seabirds.
But the jewel in the crown has to be Fanad Head Lighthouse, which has been safeguarding seafarers since it was built in 1817, in response to the tragic shipwreck of the frigate, Saldanha a few years earlier. You can climb the 76 narrow steps to the top of the tower for superb views of the northern coastline, hear the stories of shipwrecked pirates and lost gold on the lighthouse tour, or even stay in one of the lightkeepers' cottages and take the time to enjoy this beautiful spot.
Fanad Head Lighthouse
Nearby you’ll find the pretty Portsalon and spectacular Ballymastocker Bay, previously voted the second-most beautiful beach in the world. Go sailing on its crystal clear waters, try a spot of windsurfing, play a round of golf or discover the stunning coastal walks. It's even possible to take a boat tour to enjoy the view
of Cionn Fhánada and Fanad Head Lighthouse from the water, or enjoy a sightseeing and historical tour or an evening cruise along Lough Swilly. There's also the chance to visit nearby Doe Castle, where shipwrecked survivors of the Spanish Armada were said to have been given shelter.
BLOODY FORELAND
Despite its sinister moniker, Bloody Foreland has no tragic history to warrant the title. Instead, it derives its name from the evening sun that illuminates the rocks to a rich red hue. But this is Ireland, and where no facts exist, there is always folklore. This tale focuses on an unlikable warlord ‘Balor of the Evil Eye’, who was eventually slain by his grandson Lugh Lámh Fhada. Some say that the tide of blood that flowed from Balor’s Evil Eye was what stained this hillside and here. Fact or folklore, the views are simply breathtaking. Hang out in a local pub, such as Teac Jack or Teach Hiúdaí Beag, or head to Leo's Tavern – renowned for being the family home of musicians Enya, Clannad and Moya Brennan.
GLENVEAGH NATIONAL PARK
In the heart of Donegal, sprawling up towards the coast, is an extraordinary stretch of sweeping bulbous mountains and fairy-tale forests known as the Glenveagh National Park. Set within the 16,000 hectares of the park you’ll find Glenveagh Castle, inspired by the Victorian idyll of a romantic highland retreat. This majestic stronghold with its turrets and round towers was built by John George Adair, a Laois man who made his fortune as a speculator in America during the 19th century. He wanted the castle to stand out among the astounding scenery that surrounded it… and he succeeded.
Glenveagh has hosted an impressive roll call of glamorous guests over the years, including Marilyn Monroe, Charlie Chaplin and Greta Garbo. It’s a castle with real star power. After strolling the grounds, it's only fitting to relax in Glenveagh Castle's Tea Rooms and Restaurant for home-cooking at its very best.
Then head out to explore the national park itself, a wilderness of rugged mountains, unspoiled lakes, waterfalls and oak woodlands – where you may see red deer and the Golden Eagle. At certain times between September and November, you can take a specially guided Rut Walk with one of the park rangers, to hear the distinctive cry of the stags.
Glenveagh National Park
Mount Errigal FANAD HEAD
IMAGE © FAILTE IRELAND
DUNGLOE
There's a whole lot going on around Dungloe. Delve into the town's musical heart and you'll find one of Ireland’s most famous entertainers, Daniel O’Donnell, celebrated at the visitor centre on the main street. Linger here a while to enjoy a rip-roaring live traditional Irish music session in Beedy’s Bar, owned by the family of Moya Doherty, co-founder of Riverdance. And if you arrive at the start of May, you’re just in time to join the Dungloe Walking Weekend – plenty of craic guaranteed. If that’s all too much to take in, the gravitydefying Arch Stack at nearby Maghery is sure to take your breath away. Take a trip out to Arranmore Island from Burtonport or charter your own vessel with Inishfree Charters, and see it all at your own pace.
Eddie Doherty, a talented Donegal tweed weaver
Musicians play in a Donegal pub
GLENTIES
The town of Glenties lies at a point where two glens and two rivers converge, the Owenea and the Stracashel – the Owenea is the one better known for fishing. Our advice is to bring your fishing rod, get your permit from the Owenea Angling Centre and start teasing for a bite. For those who want to leave the wellies behind, wander the rooms of St Connell's Museum and Heritage Centre, where you'll find a moving commemoration of the Great Famine of 1845–1847, which saw Donegal’s potato crop obliterated. Golfers also take note: the Narin and Portnoo Golf Club is a scenic 18-hole links course with sweeping views of Gweebarra Bay.
ARDARA
The Glengesh Pass, on the road from Glencolmcille to Ardara, is some of the most spectacular scenery in Donegal, and one of the best drives in Ireland. Ardara itself is a heritage town, known for being the home of Donegal tweed. You'll be utterly charmed by the warm welcome you receive in this close-knit community. While at the Donegal Tweed Centre, find out all about the tradition of hand-weaving tweed (we challenge you to leave without bringing a sample of this beautiful fabric with you).
Dream Escape's travel designers can arrange private viewings with the talented weaver Eddie Doherty, to see the artisan process take place right in front of your eyes. This is a lovely opportunity to pick up a few tweed pieces or beautiful woven throws, for the ultimate keepsake from Donegal. You can also pop into the Donegal Designer Makers, where 12 local artists sell their wares.
Just outside Ardara, past the Assaranca Waterfall, are the Maghera Caves. It’s said that during penal times, locals would hide out here to avoid capture.
GLENCOLMCILLE
Although Glencolmcille's remoteness has been described as 'the back of beyond', that's an injustice to the beauty of this area, which is peppered with ancient dwellings and megalithic tombs. Glencolmcille is one of the oldest places in Ireland, and owes its name to Saint Columba, one of Ireland's three patron saints, who came to this glen during the 6th century. Once notorious for smuggling, the Silver Strand is worth a trip for its stunning views of a gorgeous beach surrounded by rocky cliffs, while guided tours of the Folk Village offer a warm Donegal welcome and an intimate experience of past ways of life. See pillar standing stones with early Christian markings, and spot ancient court cairns. Pop on your walking boots and head off on the scenic Tower Loop, and admire Glen Head with its 200-metre cliffs and impressive Martello Tower, a remnant from the early 1800s.
SLIEVE LEAGUE
One of the highlights of any visit to Donegal is the wondrous Slieve League sea cliffs, among the highest sea cliffs in Europe at 601metres (1,972 feet).
Take a private guided hike to the top, where spectacular views of the Atlantic Ocean, the Sligo Mountains and Donegal Bay await you. For over a thousand years, there was a Christian pilgrimage to these sacred mountains, so pilgrims could appreciate their cultural heritage. Look out for stones marking out the word 'Éire', a navigation aid for aircraft during World War II. There's a chance to enjoy a boat trip from nearby Teelin Harbour to the base of the majestic sea cliffs, where you can hear local legends and colourful stories from the skipper. A glimpse of the local pod of dolphins is a real treat, and if you arrive in May or June, you might even get lucky and spot some basking sharks.
The wondrous Slieve League sea cliffs
Glen Head View
Nearby, at the tiny harbour of Teelin, a browncowled figure clasps his hands solemnly in prayer alongside a boat. This memorial symbolises the '5thcentury monks who left from this historic part of Donegal to sail the treacherous seas to Iceland. Treat yourself to a delicious lunch at Kitty Kelly’s, which specialises in seafood and French cuisine.
KILLYBEGS
Killybegs overlooks Donegal Bay, across to the lighthouse at St John’s Point and onto the distinctive Ben Bulben mountain in Sligo. With its shimmering waters and glorious coastline, this area is Ireland’s number one fishing port, famous for its maritime culture. Enhance your visit with a trip around the Killybegs Seafood Festival, which attracts visitors from all over the world every year. Indulge yourself on the Seafood Trail, enjoying concoctions created during the Seafood Cookery Competition, then in the evening drop by one of the traditional pubs for a toe-tapping music session.
Donegal Castle in Donegal Town
Oysters on the Killybegs Seafood Trail
Bundoran beach
DONEGAL TOWN
At the mouth of Donegal Bay is Donegal Town, or Dhún na nGall in Irish, which translates as Fort of the Foreigners, referencing a time when Vikings made the town their stronghold. From Donegal Castle, built by the O’Donnell chieftains in the 15th century, to the Franciscan Friary ruins, historical significance is everywhere.
Why not take the opportunity to meet the family behind the famous Magee Tweed at Magee 1866 – a 5th-generation Irish family business with over 150 years' experience in designing, weaving and tailoring luxurious fabrics and clothing in Donegal. Likewise, you can visit McNutt of Donegal, producer of fine Irish weaves for over 60 years. In the Craft Village in Donegal town, you can find many artisans in one place and watch them as they work, from the sisters who make glass jewellery to the contemporary printworks in the letterpress. Stroll around the stable yard and meet all the makers in one beautiful location.
The town itself is vibrant and busy at anytime of the year, but especially so during the annual summer festival. Or visit during the popular food festival to indulge in the culinary delights of the region.
BUNDORAN
Visit this lovely seaside town and you’ll soon see why Bundoran is a surfing paradise. The best surfers from all around the world converge here, particularly in the winter months when they surf the biggest waves in the world. Luckily, a few of those surfers have also set up some fantastic cafés with an Australian coffee house vibe – try the Salty Fox or Foam. For something completely special, you can even kick back and relax in a luxurious seaweed bath in the centre of the town.
WHERE TO EAT
There are plenty of places to eat dotted throughout the county, though bear in mind that country restaurants in Ireland aren’t necessarily open every day. So a little bit of fore planning goes a long way. In Dunfanaghy, Cove is an exceptional seafood restaurant that serves up the freshest, local fish with an interesting Asian twist; somewhere to enjoy a modern dish that sings with flavour.
Rathmullan House
Blackface sheep, ram in Dunlewey
Teach Coll is a pub in the Irish-speaking region known as a Gaeltacht, which has been in the same family for four generations. New head chef, Billie Jean McQuaid, a local from Falcarragh, won a legion of loyal fans.
One of the finest chefs in Dublin, Ciarán Sweeney, has just joined the ranks at The Olde Glen Bar in Carrigart, creating an incredible tasting menu with such dishes as like fermented potato bread, samphireglazed turbot and house-smoked salmon.
WHERE TO STAY
One of the greatest things about Donegal is the huge variety of places where you can lay your head. While the county may not have as many five-star properties as other parts of Ireland, they do exist, and it certainly overcompensates in terms of charm and individuality. Where else can you stay in an authentic lightkeeper’s cottage, or in a yurt kitted out with thick antique furniture and a woodburning stove, like the ones at Lough Mardal?
This is also prime territory for enchanting country houses, such as Rathmullan House, a charming spot with a woodland trail straight to the beach, and exceptional food served up in the restaurant. You can also stay in at 19th-century castle at Lough Eske, and enjoy romantic walks around the lake or a snifter of whiskey at the fireside. Fans of sleek modern architecture will adore 'Breac.House', a boutique hideaway perched on the headlands in Dunfanaghy, kitted out with finishing pieces made by local artisans.
Find out more
Emer Mortell, Head of Sales "Coming from Cork, Donegal seemed like a parallel universe growing up, however, having spent several wonderful weeks holidaying with my family in recent times, I now consider it ‘Ireland’s best-kept secret’. My sister married a Donegal man and the soft accent is so endearing and gentle, a true reflection of a very special place with very welcoming people. See staggering cliffs, jagged coastlines, golden sands, charming villages, and revel in Donegal’s rugged beauty; it is incredible and not to be missed!"
⬥ emer@dreamescape.co.uk
dreamescape.co.uk
WORDS | NICOLA BRADY
