5 minute read
Meet the Chef: Stuart Shaw at the Reef Knot
Calling all seafood lovers. The Idle Rocks hotel has opened a dreamy harbourside restaurant with chef Stuart Shaw at the helm – where the fish is caught daily and peaceful estuary views abound.
Chef Stuart Shaw has learnt from the best – he’s worked with everyone from Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons to Lisa GoodwinAllen at Northcote Manor. The Queen Mother was so impressed by his work as an apprentice chef at the private members’ club Boodle's, that she requested to meet him and personally thank the kitchen brigade.
After spending the last seven years heading up the Manor House at Castle Combe, you can find Stuart leading the charge as Executive Head Chef of Reef Knot at The Idle Rocks hotel in St Mawes. Having opened in the spring, he’s been busy championing more sustainable ways of cooking and hyperlocal ingredients – like the fresh fish that’s caught by local fishers and delivered right to the kitchen door every day.
Ideally perched on the edge of St Mawes Harbour, The Idle Rocks hotel has been a part of the local community since 1913. In the 1930s it established itself as a luxury coastal hotel. Over 100 years later, new owners David and Karen Richards have restored the spot to its former glory – updating the 19 beautiful bedrooms and sweeping harbourside terrace, and opening a restaurant that’s fast becoming one of the most exciting places to eat in Cornwall. “As well as the amazing location, the importance that The Idle Rocks puts on working with local suppliers to ethically source the best ingredients is very important to me and my cooking,” explains Stuart.
“My passion for local produce and elevating seasonal ingredients grew when working at Le Manoir.” Considered one of the original garden-to-table greats, this hotel restaurant has a vast mosaic of vegetable and herb gardens. “During my time there, we solely focused on producing menus and dishes based on the seasons and when produce is at its freshest.
“As a chef, I feel it’s crucial to move with the seasons, but also to do our bit – like reducing food wastage and working with local suppliers to strengthen and support the community around us.”
At the Reef Knot, this means protecting the livelihoods of St Mawes’ fishers and other local Cornish food producers.
“We pride ourselves on showcasing the freshest seafood from our local fisherman community. And we work with local partners who provide us with the finest ingredients that Cornwall has to offer across each season – like our Creedy Carver duck eggs,” – which he slow-cooks and serves with truffled celeriac and bacon crumb, no less. The newly launched menus include a decadent six-course tasting option and offer something for every food lover. Signature dishes include the delicately flame-grilled St Mawes mackerel with a sharp and sweet citrus-soy glaze, and hunks of juicy wild halibut coloured with artichoke and green apple.
The menu changes depending on the bounty of the day, and it’s served alongside an award-winning wine list. There’s even a monthly supper club where you can taste some of the kitchen’s newest creations.
“We craft each dish to celebrate the very best of Cornwall’s land and sea and we want to offer an immersive experience for our guests,” says Stuart. “When dining with us, we want everyone to feel as though our dining room is a home-awayfrom-home with traditional Cornish hospitality. But we also want them to savour new and vibrant local flavours with
“As a location, it offers the perfect combination of stunning coastal scenery, charming village life and a vibrant culinary scene. Outside the kitchen, some of my favourite things to do are walking along the crystal blue waters of the Fal Estuary and exploring the Roseland Peninsula with its amazing walks and beaches.” an unexpected twist.” This is definitely the case for Stuart’s favourite upcoming summer dish – the Penzance cider chowder oyster, with apple dashi broth. “I love this dish as it’s elegant and refined, embodying the best of Cornish produce with a touch of Asian influence.”
Stuart is no stranger to expertly blending the best of different cuisines. He also worked under the mentorship of Marcus Wareing at the Savoy Grill in London. “Marcus’ culinary expertise and passion for championing simple seasonal British and French produce continues to inspire me every day.”
But when pressed for his current obsession, it’s all about capturing the essence of his seaside surroundings. “St Mawes is a truly special place, and what I love most is its natural beauty and sense of tranquillity.
“On the weekends, it’s all about foraging and fishing – and of course relaxing on The Idle Rocks’ terrace overlooking the bay.” Paradise found, we think.
Each bedroom at The Idle Rocks Relais & Châteaux hotel in the heart of St Mawes is individually designed.
KIRSTY HOSKINS- TRAVEL DESIGN MANAGER
The success of Cornwall’s thriving foodie scene is surely the abundance of fresh seafood and produce literally on the doorstep and of course the sublime views. You can sit and watch the seafood landing at St Mawes Harbour and then tuck in later that day with an enviable view and the sea lapping on the rocks below drinking a Cornish wine! For a foodie tour of Cornwall, another must-visit location is Padstow on the north coast, where chef Rick Stein has his flagship restaurant and cookery school. Travel further along the coast and you will find Emily Scot’s restaurant overlooking the surf and sands of Watergate Bay and inspired by fish and seafood from Cornish waters.
Words | Amy Bonifas
