7 minute read
Meet the maker: Rachel Trevor-Morgan
She has designed hats for the Queen and her creations are feminine, flattering and timeless. Dream Escape speaks to leading milliner Rachel Trevor-Morgan in her atelier in St James about what has made her successful and her top styling tips for Royal Ascot 2024.
From hot pink to canary yellow, delicate silk roses and foliage to artfully curled feathers – Rachel Trevor Morgan’s hats are works of art, there’s no doubt. And with Ascot 2024 coming up on 18–22 June, thousands of women will covet her stunning Spring/ Summer Collection. There’s something to suit every style, whether a classic pillbox or a statement headdress adorned with bold blooms.
But, as with most great creatives, Rachel’s journey to becoming a royallyappointed milliner has been just as colourful as her designs. “I always knew that I wanted to do something creative. I originally wanted to work in the theatre – acting, designing, or creating costumes. But, while I was taking a year out of studying, I started thinking about hats,” says Rachel. “My mother always wore hats to church on a Sunday, I imagine that quietly worked its way into my psyche!
“Having written to some milliners in London, I was lucky enough to be offered an apprenticeship in one of the best workrooms with a designer called Graham Smith.” Graham has enjoyed an illustrious career working in the couture house of Lanvin in Paris to turning around Kangol’s fortunes in the 1980s.
“I’d landed on my feet without realising it and didn’t look back,” says Rachel.
Her gorgeous atelier in the heart of St James has now been open for 34 years.
“It’s such a beautiful and historic part of London. I’m based in Crown Passage – a wonderful Dickensian alley that oozes history and charm.”
It’s home to plenty of inspirational places to visit – from the ever-changing exhibitions at The Royal Academy near the Burlington Arcade, and Fortnum and Mason with its historic interior and incredible food hall.
“I also love St James’s Park – I’ve been lucky enough to walk through it daily as I travel to work and it’s always uplifting.”
Step inside the atelier and you can practically feel the creativity and passion poured into every design.
“My work is feminine, flattering and timeless,” explains Rachel. “And my showroom is full of hats and headpieces in various styles and sizes. These are my working samples from which I work to create bespoke pieces for clients.”
Above the showroom is a collection of workrooms. It’s here that every hat or headdress is made by hand from start to finish. Shapes are hand-blocked and the flowers are expertly created by dying, cutting and shaping petals by hand.
This incredible attention to detail has attracted plenty of fabulous clients over the years, including a clutch of royals. “Making hats for HM Queen Elizabeth was the absolute pinnacle,” says Rachel. “She wore so many hats throughout her life and being part of the history feels like quite an achievement.” The Princess of Wales, the Duchess of Edinburgh and Princess Alexandra are among her other royal clients.
And her team is integral to her success, including Ann who has worked for Rachel for 29 years. “We trained with the same designer and understand how each other works. She’s an incredibly skilled milliner and has been a steady voice of reason over the years.”
As we head into the summer, this spells the busiest time for hatmakers – ‘tis the season for weddings, garden parties and racing season, after all. Royal Ascot stands as one of the most prominent dates on the summer social calendar and this means all hands on deck for Rachel and her colleagues.
“Business builds and builds towards the race season. During the last eight weeks, I’m usually shuffling an Excel spreadsheet of orders and we’re all working long hours. It’s exciting and exhausting,” says Rachel.
“By the time I attend Royal Ascot, I’m normally on my knees but the adrenaline keeps me going. It’s wonderful to walk around, bumping into clients and seeing all the fruits of our labours on display. Royal Ascot Week is such a unique celebration of style and British millinery.”
So, when it comes to creating your Ascot outfit, where to start – the dress, the hat or the accessories? “This is a question I’m often asked,” says Rachel. “As all of our hats are made to order, it’s generally easier for us to make the hat fit with a given outfit. That way we can make sure it coordinates perfectly – we can dye the straw and make flowers and trimmings to match.
“That said, for Royal Ascot, I often have clients for whom the hat is the most important element and they come in to choose their hat first, then pair it with a classic, simple outfit.”
One of the best things about the event is the incredible variety of personal styles, colours and techniques. But, any regular Royal Ascot attendee will know that alongside all the new, emerging trends, there are classic looks that never go out of style.
“As ever, flowers are huge,” says Rachel. “And there will be lots of fresh, clean colours. Coral is a big colour for this season.” We love the block spring greens and pale blues, and the headbands adorned with a side-sweep of wildflowers and roses. Otherwise, Rachel’s styling tips are simple – “Wear your Royal Ascot hat with confidence – enjoy the experience, as everyone there will be putting on their finery and having fun.”
Experience the royal styling treatment
Dream Escape has partnered with Creative Director and Personal Stylist, Emily Giffard-Taylor to offer unique styling experiences during your trip to London.
“Having worked on everything from red carpet appearances to editorial cover shoots, I gradually expanded my number of private clients and set up my personal styling and shopping business, Bees & Taylor,” says Emily. “I find real joy in sharing my styling know-how and experience with others”.
Bespoke fashion experiences
EMILY GIFFARD-TAYLOR'S TOP THREE EXPERIENCES TO HELP YOU GET STYLED AND READY FOR THE SUMMER SEASON…
1. THE ROYAL MILLINER
Take a behind-the-scenes look at milliner Rachel’s atelier and workroom to meet her team and see how the flowers are made. I can share my styling tips and you can order your own bespoke piece if you wish!
2. JEWELS FIT FOR A ROYAL
From Queen Mary’s consort crown to Princess Diana’s sapphire engagement ring, House of Garrard is synonymous with some of the most precious jewellery in the world. Here, we can soak up all the jewellery inspiration and try on a selection of pieces.
3. THE ROYAL SHOPPING TOUR
Book a personal shopping and styling day with me and I can help you choose the finest new pieces, from the royals' favourite fashion brands – including Burberry and Vivienne Westwood – to Saville Row.
With Dream Escape, you can meet Rachel and your own personal stylist to help you pick out a bespoke piece, ready for the season!
SALLY STRANGE CLIENT RELATIONSHIP MANAGER AND BLUE BADGE GUIDE
Hats, glorious hats! And in so many ways hats are part of The British DNA – top hats, bowler hats, boaters for rowing, caps for cricket, and that’s before we even turn to the glorious confections that women wear for weddings, garden parties and of course the ultimate of all dressing-up parades: Royal Ascot. I recently had the pleasure of taking a client to Rachel’s atelier, and after a joyful afternoon trying on various delightful pieces, she selected one for her daughter’s wedding. As we departed, I congratulated her on the forthcoming occasion, to which she replied, “oh, she’s not getting married but when she does I will have the perfect hat”!
