8 minute read
Sip the Seasons
from THE HANDLE 2024
We meet some of the country’s top sommeliers and wine experts to get their advice on how to choose wines that suit the season, plus perfect food pairings and tasty new tipples to try
Spring
As we emerge from our winter hibernation and look to reconvene with friends, nothing pairs with the celebratory mood of spring quite like a chilled glass of fizz. Over recent years, demand for English sparkling wine has skyrocketed; not only does it make a sophisticated aperitif, but it pairs incredibly well with food. Some of the most popular English wines are produced by Gusbourne, a beautiful vineyard and state-of-the-art winery based in Appledore, Kent.
“I think that spring offers us licence to be more relaxed when it comes to hard and fast wine-pairing ‘rules’. Why not pair your wine with the atmosphere – something that is light, elegant and fun,’ suggests Laura Rhys, Master Sommelier and Gusbourne’s global ambassador.
“With canapés, try a crowdpleasing magnum of something delicious and easy to enjoy, such as our Brut Reserve 2019. This is a blend of all three classic grape varieties, and it is beautifully balanced, with flavours of citrus, stone fruit, and a lively acidity. And after a substantial meal, a glass of sparkling can be just the thing to reinvigorate the mood,” she explains.
“There’s also one dining opportunity where sparkling wine is often overlooked but works incredibly well: the cheese course. Whether it’s a washed-rind soft cheese, a goats’, or something nutty and savoury such as Comté – many of the most popular cheeses pair magnificently with Blanc de Blancs, whatever the time of year.”
“For a summer picnic, try a dry sherry like manzanilla with antipasti –it has amazing acidity. If you’re serving smoked salmon, go for a light, crisp white. Try English Bacchus – it’s a great, local alternative to Sauvignon Blanc as it has similar aromas. With any food and wine pairing, the best, where possible, is to choose a wine from the same region as the dish or main ingredient – ‘what grows together goes together’.”
Summer
When the sun is shining and the weather is sweet, many of us reach for the rosé. Crisp, fresh and laden with juicy summer berry flavours, this beautiful pink wine tastes like summer in a glass, but there are some more unusual options that are also worth exploring when the mercury starts to soar.
“Try a lighter red wine that can be enjoyed slightly chilled – less alcoholic and fruitier examples of Grenache or Pinot Noir work really well,” explains Romain Bourger, Director of Wine and Beverage and Master Sommelier at The Vineyard, a beautiful five-star hotel in Newbury, Berkshire, which has over 30,000 bottles of wine in its cellars, 3,000 bins and offers over 50 wines by the glass. “Red wine is also great for summer barbeques, something like a New World Pinot Noir – the ripeness of fruit goes superbly with smoky flavours,” he adds.
“Having grown up in Portugal and lived in Spain for several years, I have developed a strong affinity with the summer months,” he explains.
At Grantley Hall, a luxurious five-star hotel and wellness retreat situated on the edge of the picturesque Yorkshire Dales, Head Sommelier Mario de Sousa Maia Martins is also an expert when it comes to choosing wines best enjoyed in the sunshine.
“To complement the warmer season, try medium-to-low-alcohol wines that boast high acidity and medium-to-high pronounced flavours. Excellent examples include Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and the delightful mineral whites from the Loire region, such as Sancerre, Muscadet, and Chablis. Other grape varieties that exude a summery vibe include Grüner Veltliner, Alvarinho/Albariño, Verdejo, and Picpoul de Pinet, all of which will keep you feeling fresh and hydrated,” he suggests.
“Over the last decade, orange wines have also really grown in popularity. The winemaking techniques are similar to that of redwine production, where the wine stays for a longer period of time with skin contact so it can obtain its particular colour pigment, becoming more aromatic. Orange wine can be great with food, or just to enjoy with friends during the summer months.”
When it comes to seasonal desserts, a quintessential summer treat is of course Eton Mess; a glorious combination of juicy summer berries, sweet meringue, and lashings of whipped cream. Instead of a heavy dessert wine, Mario suggests a lighter alternative.
“Try a sparkling cider,” he suggests. “A good example is Jake’s Orchard Cider Rosé, which uses Champagne yeasts during the secondary fermentation process.”
“You could also try a Moscato d’Asti sparkling wine,” suggests Romain. “Slightly fizzy and slightly sweet, it pairs amazingly well with any fruit-based dessert. Although it is equally as good to drink on its own…”
Autumn
The ‘season of mists and mellow fruitfulness’ sees the leaves turn a rusty hue and a desire for comfort descend. At this time of year, many of us lean towards heavier wines to complement the season’s increasingly heartier dishes, but there are also some lovely, lighter alternatives to consider.
“Traditionally, this time of year starts to see more fuller body reds, but these aren’t to everyone’s palate,” says James Story, Company Director at Ness Walk, an idyllic luxury hotel nestled on the leafy banks of the River Ness in the Highlands of Scotland.
“A good alternative is a hotter climate Pinot Noir. It will be fuller bodied than Burgundy but will still stand up to the robust flavours of autumn,” he suggests.
“And a lovely aperitif for this time of year is sherry – it may be a little old-fashioned but it’s truly enchanting and a great 5pm tipple! Bodegas Ximénez-Spínola is one to try – a very good pairing for desserts too, with incredible notes of figs, raisins, and warm pastries.”
Winter
The chillier months go hand in hand with bracing country walks followed by cosy Sunday lunches. All eyes turn to bold, juicy reds, but is there still a space for white wine on the table?
“There are some excellent tasty whites that work well in the winter – grapes like Sauvignon and Chardonnay provide enough warmth,” suggests Hrishikesh Desai, Chef Patron at Farlam Hall, a small boutique hotel set in the beautiful Cumbrian countryside near Carlisle.
“Generally, dry wines work better at this time of year. If you’re going to have sparkling then go for a brut or extra brut, best enjoyed in front of roaring fire,” he adds.
“With comforting fruit crumbles try a dry Riesling or a Napa red (served a bit cooler), which have lots of apple, red fruits, and peppery notes.”
At Northcote, a luxury hotel with a Michelin-starred restaurant in Blackburn, Lancashire, white wine also features throughout the winter months, as does pink.
“We use rosé as a food pairing throughout the year – we see it as a foil rather than just a pleasure drink, it really is fabulous with food,” says Craig Bancroft, Northcote’s Managing Director and Wine Director.
“Generally, winter brings whites that are more aromatic style, as well as rich, full-bodied reds. When it comes to a Sunday roast, try beef with Rhône or Rioja, lamb with Chianti or Bordeaux, pork with Barriada from Portugal or a lovely number from Lebanon. Pies and puddings are all on the robust stye, so try Shiraz from Australia, or wines from the Douro.
High-level sparkling Champagne-style ciders are also a winner with pork.”
Top tips for choosing wine From the experts...
“I think that the philosophy of pairing the origin of the food with a wine from that region works well. For example, if I cook beef bourguignon-style, a red Burgundy goes perfectly.”
Hrishikesh Desai, Farlam Hall
“Price does not always dictate the wine; instead seek the best possible pairing. This may be a light-style, great-value wine or could just as easily be a fabulous sparkling wine that is an investment.”
Craig Bancroft, Northcote
“Always start with the producer. For me, the way grapes are cared for and how they are farmed is crucial. Are they biodynamic or organic? The story behind the producer is also extremely important, as is the terroir. Of course, the wine has to be delicious, but you need to know who is growing the grapes.”
James Story, Ness Walk
“Choose wines from local wineries that make an effort to give back to their communities, and encourage biodiversity.”
Romain Bourger, The Vineyard
“Think of your wine as you would any other ingredient in your dish: it either needs to complement the flavours or contrast them. Picture the effect that a squeeze of lemon juice has on a slice of smoked salmon. Sparkling wine can work in just the same way, providing lift, acidity and freshness.”
Laura Rhys, Gusbourne
“When pairing food and wine, the wine should always be stronger or at least hold similar intensity of flavours to the food, otherwise you may feel a watery sensation on the palate. For example, grilled red meats, steaks and game always pair well with strong, oaked, full-body red wines with high acidity, alcohol and tannins.”
Mario de Sousa Maia Martins, Grantley Hall
Words | Sophie Farrah
