5 minute read
Clean & Green
from THE HANDLE 2024
Unlike food terms such as vegan, organic or keto, ‘sustainable’ has no strict definition. So what does it mean?
Broadly speaking, sustainable cooking and eating aims to minimise the negative impact of food production throughout the farm-tofork process. This can signify different things to different people, whether it’s reducing the carbon footprint, focusing on local produce to reduce food miles, or cutting energy use.
And embracing these principles doesn’t mean eschewing fine dining. Food at all levels can be sustainable, from kitchen suppers to Michelin starred menus. Indeed, three years ago
Michelin introduced a Green Star to highlight restaurants that stand out for their sustainable ways of working.
The original stars are awarded based on five criteria: ingredient quality, mastery of flavour and cooking techniques, the personality of the chef in their cuisine, value for money, and consistency between visits. However, the Green Star has no set criteria. According to Michelin, the Inspectors “consider things such as: the provenance of the ingredients; the use of seasonal produce; the restaurant’s environmental footprint; food waste systems; general waste disposal and recycling; resource management; and the communication between the team and the guests about the restaurant’s sustainable approach.”
Of the 188 Michelin-starred restaurants in the UK, 31 hold the Green Star too.
Among these is The Dining Room at Whatley Manor Hotel & Spa, a luxurious Cotswolds country-house hotel. Executive Chef Ricki Weston comments: “It’s a brilliant accolade for the team across the hotel. We try to look at all areas of sustainability at Whatley, not just the food, so to be recognised for that each year is a fantastic achievement.”
Another Green Star holder is Palé Hall, a grand, historic hotel in Bala, on the edge of Snowdonia. The establishment has always been innovative, with a hydroelectric power system first installed in 1920, which provides carbon-neutral energy to power the hotel. Head Chef here Sam Griffiths, says of the Green Star: “It was a proud moment to be the first –and so far only – hotel in Wales to be awarded this accolade. It highlights our commitment to food sustainability at the highest level on one of the most prestigious industry platforms in the world.”
As we’ve seen, sustainability has many sides. So what aspect means most to these Green-Star-winning chefs? For Ricki Weston it’s zero waste. “Looking at food waste and produce management in the kitchen is important. With the cost of food increasing so much it has a big impact being able to manage where the whole ingredient goes, to be able to utilise as much as we can.” Sam Griffiths agrees: “It’s utilising every part of every ingredient we use with respect. Whether it’s the prime cuts on our tasting menu, or the bones used to make our Sunday gravy, the whole process should be approached the same way, with zero waste, by using suppliers that work with the same mantra.”
Using local produce and ingredients whose provenance is known is also key. Ricki Weston’s menu celebrates local ingredients, where possible. He explains that it’s important because it gives his team more connection to the product. “To know the farm where the meat has come from, or the dairy, really gives us a better understanding of the product and how to use it.”
Lindsay Mackay, Executive Chef at the Torrish restaurant of Ness Walk, a five-star retreat on the banks of the River Ness in Inverness, is also an advocate of seasonal, local produce: “Our menus are created with seasonality and locality in mind – ingredient-driven in many ways. I feel it is essential to understand the history, journey of our food sources and invest time in visiting our local suppliers to build those connections. I feel compelled to question every decision made when sourcing produce and consider the impact of our actions; on both communities and the environment.”
Good for the planet, good for its people
Taking a sustainable approach to what you eat has benefits for you, for the environment, and for the Earth. With meat production a major contributor to greenhouse gases, and using land that could produce much more plant-based food, acre for acre, many people now choose to eat meat less often, but opt for higher-quality produce.
Eating fruit and vegetables that are in season and grown locally is usually cheaper and is likely to be fresher, so its vitamin content is optimal and it tastes at its best. Eating a wider range of fresh produce maximises nutrient levels, and organic farming means fewer chemicals in our bodies, and in the environment.
Words | Adrienne Wyper
