cookhouse Soho House Food Magazine
rump& Grind winter 2011 WORKING cooking perfect puddings EATING tasty trips PLAYING chefs’ mad hobbies
Winter 2011 11 Welcome to the winter 20 oho issue of Cookhouse, the S chefs House food magazine for at and people who love to e
Tuck in!
This magazine celebrates the food philosophy of all the Soho House Group restaurants worldwide: Soho House New York, Babington House in Somerset, Soho House West Hollywood, Soho Beach House Miami, Soho House Berlin and Cecconi’s in LA, as well as all the London sites: Pizza East Shoreditch, Pizza East Portobello Cecconi’s, Dean Street Town House, Shoreditch House, The Electric, Cafe Boheme, BKB, High Road House in Chiswick, Hoxton Grill and Soho House. If you’re interested in joining one of our kitchens email cookhouse@sohohouse.com This issue we’re taking a butcher’s at meat and what the kitchens do with it, reporting back from some of the fantastic trips the chefs have been on and learning about perfect puds for winter. Plus all the news from the Soho House Group worldwide.
Editor Rebecca Seal Art etc. Dominic Salmon Publisher Dan Flower
, Caroline Boucher, thanks to Kat Hartigan, Dylan Murray nnie Bonetti, Antonella Bonetti, o R , d a e t s i m r A w e h t t Thomas Lennard, Ma ard, Shelley Armistead, Jon Pollard, Matt Greenlees, Paul Ger tephen Tonkin, Eliot Sandiford, S , e r e Maurilio Molteni, Andrea Cavali Phoebe Strawson, Gareth Jones
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a taste... 4 8
DIGEST THIS
Rising star chefs from around the world, guests in the kitchens, fundraisers and all the Soho House news
WHAT I KNOW
loves his Andrea Cavaliere on eating raw gnocchi and why he pasta machine
10
TAKIN’ A TRIP
SHG teams report back from Piedmont, Copenhagen, Berlin and Dorset
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MEATY BUSINESS A look at what butchering their own meat means to our chefs
22
LE FOODING
Jon Pollard and his team from Pizza East Shoreditch take on Milan
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WHEN THEY’RE NOT WORKING... what chefs get up to when they’re not at the stove
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WINTER PUDDINGS
Grey Goose vodka teams up with pastry chef Matt Hayes to create brilliant seasonal desserts
PURE GUINNESS
A member’s recipe for Guinness brownies
Keep the flame On October 8th, chef Paul Gerard and crew at Soho House New York joined chef Paul’s old schoolmate, fireman Matthew Hanley, and took part in a fundraiser for Firefighters for Wounded Veterans in conjunction with Stephen Siller Tunnel to Towers Foundation. The foundation had its sad beginnings on September 11 2001 after the terrorist attacks on the World Trade Centre. Stephen Siller, 34, a New York City firefighter with Squad 1 in Park Slope, Brooklyn, raced on foot through the smoke-filled tunnel carrying 80 pounds of gear after he was not allowed to drive to Manhattan. He was last seen alive at West and Liberty Sts.; the rest of his fire company was already there; they all perished. The team donated food for this year’s Oktoberfest-themed fundraiser on Staten Island, which raised over $210,000 to build a special needs home for another deserving American hero, U.S. Marine Corps Corporal Todd Nicely. USMC Corporal Nicely is the second surviving quadruple amputee of the Afghan conflict, after he stepped on an IED on March 26 2010.
Visit tunneltotowers.org for more information.
NIBBLES
food news from around the world
All change! Check out the new menu at Cecconi’s in West Hollywood if you get the chance – expect butternut squash tortellini with leeks and pancetta, venison with chanterelles and chestnut, and strozzapreti served with rabbit, black olives, lemon and thyme.
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DINNER BREAKFAST Pizza Eggs
Cicchetti Fruit & Cereal yoghurt fruit, natural polenta Seasonal crispy ink seppioline, Squid Homemade granola, yoghurt & berries Tuna crudo, avocado & butter lettuce Oatmeal, strawberries Quail egg & tonnata sauce
10 8
& goat cheese Zucchini Bread blossom Shishito muffin & anchovies Pastry orpeppers
Meatballs, tomato & basil Pancakes & Waffles peppers Lamb sausage & roast Ricotta hotcakes, preserved blueberries & fontina “sandwiches” Porchetta Waffle, mascarpone & mixed berries verde& banana chocolate bone hazelnutsalsa Roast withmarrow, Crépes
11
6
9
8
omelette, asparagus Egg white wild mushroom & sausage Risotto & chili garlicomelette & goat's cheese Fresh herbbroccolini, Orecchiette,
8
8
crab & saffron gnocchi, / Royale Potato / Benedict Florentine boar ragout Pappardelle, wild Scrambled eggs & smoked salmon
7
8
7
8
Spaghetti lobster
20
‘Plin’ agnolotti & black truffle Sides Linguine, vongole & sea urchin
11 24 9 12/18
18/26 11 14/22 11 32 22/30
16/22 2 Toast 4 Rosti & thyme 16/22 rabbit, black9 olives, lemon 6 Fresh fruit 10 Strozzapreti, Wild Mushrooms 6 14/20 9 Mixed berries squash & goat 5cheese tortelli Pork sausage 4 10 Butternut
4
Spinach Turkey bacon
16
Buffalo mozzarella, cherry tomatoes
14
Calamari fritti, roast chili sauce Leaf Tea Coffee & Chocolate olives (all&organic) Grilled octopus, lemon, capers
Charcoal Grill
3
Iced Drinks Fresh juices & lemon made with butter(smoothies chard, 18 Salmon, s) at Cecconi’ (squeezedrainbow low fat frozen yoghurt) 18 Halibut, romanesco &6 basil pesto Valencia orange Americano Peperoncino” 16 Prawns “Al
3
18
3
3
4 Carpaccio Cappuccino & Tartare
3 Green 3 Café latte Venetian4 dressingWhite Carpaccio, 3 Redbush Pot of coffee carpaccio,4blood orange , fennel & pistachio Octopus 3 Chamomile 4 onion, cucumber & lime 3 tartare, spring Halibut Americano Chai truffle 3 tartare, quail egg 4 & blackJasmine Beef Mocha & mint chili 4 avocado, mint tartare, Fresh tuna Ahi 5 Hot chocolate
Salads
9
baked frittata with spinach
Wood& Risotto Pasta
8
Applewood bacon
& rosemary scallops, pancetta Breakfast Roast 2 Espresso Earl Grey Vitello tonnato 3 Dbl espresso Darjeeling Cured meat selection 3 Machiatto Lapsang Souchong
18 8
6
House selection
10 Smoked salmon barley & farro soup4 Lentil, Roast tomatoes 4 Cauliflower Avocado soup
16
chili style &&toast brocolini Eggs any Sausage,
24 & gorgonzola 11 squash, butternut Speck, egg chanterelle fried duck Rosti, 24 8 Bresaola, arugula & Parmigiano 11 Wood baked frittata with wild mushrooms 36 8 Goat pancetta& black truffle & cheese
8
4
& cream cheese salmon gorgonzola romana, Bagel, smoked Gnocchi syrup maple French toast, aioli Panettone saffron cod croquettes, Salt
Appetizers
(all eggs are free range & organic) Buffalo mozzarella, tomato & oregano
9 10
18 20 18 22 18
30 36 38 4
24 & red onions 5 kale Cappuccino 4 Blood orange paillard, sauteed Chicken 34 peas & artichokes 4 Lamb chops, fava beans, Café Latte 5 Grapefruit 44 Dry aged New York ‘Tagliata’, peperonata 4 Peach tea 40 5 Melon chop, chanterelle & chestnuts Venison 4 Lemon tea 5 Carrot 5 Seasonal smoothie Wood Oven 5 Apple 5 22 Banana & strawberry Eggplant Parmigiana, wild arugula 5 5 36 olives raspberry & Pineapple Peach & taggiasca Branzino filet, cherry tomatoes 34 carrots heirloom 5 berry Mixed braised Barolo 5 celery root, juice short rib, Seasonal 32 Duck, potato rosti, saba
8am to 11pm 8 to 2am • Sundays open 14/20to Saturday all at7am Sidesopen & shrimp open 7am to midnight • Thursday romanesco to Wednesday Quinoa, Monday am served until 11:30fritti Breakfast12/18 Roast potatoes burrata Zucchini am to 5pm Roast beets, pomegranate, endive & Lunch menu served 11:30 pinach
A few of Cecconi’s new dishes
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There’s a star...man Dean Street Townhouse
Head chef Dave Green says: “I would like to nominate Rob Newbury, senior chef de partie. He has come to the Townhouse and really developed as a chef in a short space of time. He approaches the job with a can-do attitude and calm manner.”
Café Boheme
Head chef Marcin Malinski says: “I have a rising star, Petr Svoboda, senior chef de partie. He has been with us at Café Boheme for only four months and has already managed to prove that he can run all sections of the kitchen. He’s very reliable, always on time and has a very artistic soul (he makes sculptures).”
Hoxton Grill
Head chef Pete McAllister says: Tom Zeederberg has been with us at the Hoxton for nearly a year now, fresh off the boat from Cape Town S.A. where started his hospitality career five years ago. His passion for work has moved him up the ladder very fast and he is a master of all sections. Come in and try his juicy steaks off our grill, when he is not out fly fishing! I’d also like to say big ups to...DJ Who Who (aka Hussein Mohammed) for being one of the most consistent chef-departies. He is also a master of all sections and is an asset to our team.” www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
bites... Yes guest chef! Also at Cecconi’s West Hollywood, Andrea Cavaliere joined forces with celebrity guest chef Giada De Laurentiis, an Emmy award-winning celebrity chef who appears on the Food Network and Today programme in the US. Together, they created a four course Venetian inspired feast. The lunch and wine pairings were a part of the Los Angeles Food and Wine Festival. The most important meal of the day To make sure its members are getting the most from their breakfast, Soho House West Hollywood has re-launched their breakfast menu. You can now tuck in to everything from truffled eggs on sourdough, to ricotta pancakes and lemon curd. There’s even a brand new omelette bar. Yum. Rooftop farmers’ market On certain Saturdays the rooftop of Soho House West Hollywood is given over to all manner of wholesome goodies with a new in-house farmers’ market. Come and stock up on local treats, and distract the kids from sweet things by getting their faces painted! For dates check www.houseseven.com Meatball madness Not only can you treat yourself to some amazing meatballs every Tuesday at Pizza East Shoreditch but you can also have a whole meatball party. Book a semi-private space and choose from the mix-and-match meatball menu – think spicy pork, lamb or veal with spaghetti or polenta along with piles of antipasto and desserts.
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NIBBLES
i l l u b y l o o w
Festival, As part of the events around the NY Wine and Food House New legendary Spanish chef Ferran Adria visited Soho Cooking York to showcase his new book – The Family Meal: Home duced him with Ferran Adria. Executive chef Paul Gerard intro one of the to the members who’d come to hear him talk: “It was nce of rare moments in my life when I felt I was in the prese thing, it greatness. Even though his food is not entirely my was emotional.”
NY as the Festival founder Lee Schrager also chose Soho House ing 250 spot for his post-festival chefs’ after party – invit , Andrew chefs to party on the roof, including Ferran Adria the stops: Zimmern and Bobby Flay. Chef Paul pulled out all yearning, “The bites, bits, small cups and canapés can leave you even after a full day of ‘eating.’ It doesn’t have to be so avantgarde. I like my food to be simple – like three chord rock ‘n’ roll” So he served up everything from BLT banh mi to Coney Island clam sandwiches and meatball sliders. Everyone had a blast and went home stuffed, in the best possible way. Lee Shrager tweeted “best chef after-party ever!” Above left, Paul Gerard and Ferran Adria; above, Ferran introduces his book
Check out the film of the night here – www.herocontent.com/soho-house.
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how you like dem apples?
e Sherwin from Court Thanks to James and Helen at Babington can farm Standerwick, guests ce, made from fruits sample delicious apple jui . They’ve loaned grown in the walled garden ple press and are ap Babington the use of their from the compost. s ple ap saving lots of lovely www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
EIN STEIN ON THE BEACH If you love beer, then Soho Beach House Miami was the best place to be this Oktoberfest. Think steins of ale and lager, pretzels, lederhosen and lots of pretty peasant blouses (and pretty peasants!).
Fest of fury: Ze kerazeevolk of Miami let their lederhosen down
QR as folk Check this out – it’s our new QR code. Just zap it with your smartphone and you’ll be taken straight to our website (www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse) for loads of extra content.
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
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starters
what i know Andrea Cavaliere, executive/corporate chef, America, 37 My earliest memory of cooking is making cookies with my mother when I was very little. I also remember stealing her gnocchi to eat raw. For me and my brother it was a game because we’d get into trouble. I’m inspired by the chefs I work with today and the chefs I’ve worked with in the past. I hope that in some way I inspire the chefs I work with too. It’s about being part of a team. Also, Nick Jones [Soho House Group CEO] always inspires me. He pushes us and is on top of everything. With the chefs and directors in head office in London we exchange a lot of pictures and ideas. When I create a dish, I think about what their reactions to it will be and whether the customers will like it. Will it be popular and profitable? Creating a dish is like coming up with the perfect solution to a dilemma. Something I am proud of is creating teams. When we re-opened Cecconi’s in London in 2004, we had a great team – and today they are all head chefs or executive chefs elsewhere in the Soho House Group. Now, I’ve done the same over here – if we want to open another venue, I have a team of chefs ready to move up to the next level. The best part of this is opening new restaurants. That is where my strengths lie and creativity shines the most.
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“ I started as a commis at Turin Palace. Now, that was a proper kitchen brigade” www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
“ I love supporting and d a e h r e h t o e h t h t i w g n i creat and executive chefs” I like quite hardcore exercise. I cycle, go spinning and I surf when I am on holiday, I also just joined a Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu club. To relax I spend time with my lovely wife and 11-month old daughter. That’s the best; it completely makes my day to spend even just half an hour with them. My favourite piece of equipment is my Cavatelli pasta machine – a small machine you turn by hand. I use it for specials. I also like my truffle shaver a lot at the moment. I really love cooking with wood-burning ovens as well. I know they’re a pain in the ass to use because they’re not controllable like a normal oven, but they take cooking to a different level. I’ve never been paid to do anything except cook. I was 16 when I got my first job. I started as a commis at Turin Palace. Now, that was a proper kitchen brigade, divided up in the old style. The chef was god there – I never would have spoken to him. Everyone was a professional: the pasta chef was 50, he’d been doing the pasta for 35 years. It wasn’t for him to learn and move on, this was what he did. Front of house staff were the same – no-one wanted to be an actor. I loved it and hated it there as well. I worked for seven years at the Neal Street Restaurant, which was run by Antonio Carluccio. I learned so much from him about ingredients. I’d been cooking in Michelin-starred restaurants in Italy but it was chefs’ food – he took me back to the basics of Italian food, regular food. There was very little of that around 15 years ago. Antonio was part of an inspiring movement of Italian chefs in London, along with Giorgio Locatelli and the River Cafe. Nowadays I do a crazy job. I’m based in LA but I work in Miami and New York as well. There are time differences and seasonal differences to contend with and it was definitely a big change from waking up, going to the kitchen and deciding what to cook that day. I enjoy it a lot – I love supporting and creating with the head and executive chefs and all the festivals, events and pop-ups are really exciting. Andrea’s advice? Stay sharp!
t to find out more about how you could become wano k? part of the Soho House Group team o c to contact cookhouse@sohohouse.com www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
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on tour!
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“ she turned up in suede opentoe shoes, to a farm…” www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
Sometimes you need to step away from the stove to get inspired. We catch up with the Soho House teams who’ve been on the road
How now brown cow? Babington House’s senior sous Neil Smith and duty manager Kelly Wardingham took a trip to the multi-award winning Brown Cow Organics farm nearby, who produce fantastic organic beef and dairy. “Kelly and I arrived at the farm, which is when I noticed how much of an idiot Kelly had been. I mean, she turned up in suede open-toe shoes to a farm… So after she borrowed some wellies from the farmer’s daughter we headed out, disinfected our feet and made straight for the cow fields to explore. The cows were a little friendlier than we first expected, as we found out when a cow wrapped her tongue around Kelly’s hand! Field after field we found ourselves not only learning about the farm but also longing to find the next blackberry bush. Following the tour we were treated to a taster of some of the amazing produce that comes out of Brown Cow Organics, then we were sent on our way (minus the wellies), goodie bag in hand filled with an amazing array of treats. (Kelly was back in those suede shoes and the muddy walk back to the car didn’t bode well.) We set off back to Babington very intrigued by the Christmas pudding-flavoured yoghurt we had been given...” www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
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on tour!
piedmont piPers.... Daniele Pampagnin organised a trip for the Group’s executive chefs to Piedmont
The team ready to visit a cheese factory
“We started planning this trip in January. We went with Gastronomica who supply us with cured meat and cheeses, firstly at Cecconi’s but now across the group. The team included Dylan Murray, F&B director, Martin Kuczmarski, operations director and then Ronnie Bonetti from Babington, Matt Hayes, executive pastry chef, Andrea Cavaliere, US executive chef, me and some other Italian head chefs from other London restaurants like Zucca. Funnily enough we discovered that all of them had, at some point, worked in Soho House Group kitchens. We visited places that do amazing products, like Lo Puy, a raw milk goat’s cheese producer and Castelmagno, which also does award-winning cheese. But the two biggest events were when we met the president of the region of Piedmont, in a big old townhouse with a huge main room where he’d gathered loads of journalists and television crews. We had a proper conference and gave speeches about the business which was quite cool. Another purpose of the trip was to forge a partnership with a catering college in Piedmont, which was a great success – the first four of their chefs who are joining the company have already arrived in the UK, and we have a list of a further 16 who want to come here. We were given a lunch at the school which was brilliant – the dessert was outstanding.
Ronnie Bonetti
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Over the rest of the trip we had more incredible food. Everyone had warned us to watch out for the fritto misto in Piedmont, as it’s not what you’d expect, and they were right – we ate fried brains and even testicles! One evening we had a real feast up one of the mountains where lots of local producers had come together, bringing their own specialities with them – we tried a very lean veal called fassone, which you only eat raw, any type of cheese you can imagine, piles of pasta, barbecued meat and fish. It was a beautiful party and a wonderful trip.”
“ We ate fried brains and even testicles!” www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
gone fishing The Soho House Berlin team got a taste of the Cookhouse action with a fishing trip hosted by group Italian executive chef Daniele Pampagnin. “We had a brilliant time. It was a great day – and I caught a fish for the first time in my life! There were 15 of us, both front-of-house and kitchen staff and we headed out to a lake for some serious trout fishing. The lake has a smokery as well, and we tried most of the products that they do there. Everyone caught at least one fish and we put them on the menu the next day as a special, as both a mousse with potatoes, baby spinach salad and poached egg, and roasted with capers, olives, basil, tomato and clams. It was everyone’s day off and so we had a few drinks – a few of the Germans had brought along some whisky, the Poles bought a kind of vodka with gold in it and I took some beers. Whenever I do these trips everyone is enthusiastic but this one was the most excited group I’ve taken out, which was really fantastic. It’s so good but it’s a chance for people to get to know each other outside work.”
“ I caught a fish for the first time in my life!”
Catch of the day
mad for it This year René Redzepi (currently best chef in the world) hosted his first ever food festival in Copenhagen – MAD Foodcamp. Nicholas Fitzgerald, junior sous at Pizza East in Shoreditch, went along to find out more. “I got more excited the closer I got to Heathrow. I was heading to the MAD food festival with two lads, James Lowe (former head chef at St John Bread and Wine) and Isaac McHale (former development chef at the Ledbury). They’re also known as the Young Turks and are getting international acclaim for their pop-up restaurant in Spitalfields. I met Isaac a few months back when I helped him out with an event. We were on the way to Copenhagen, home to René Redzepi of Noma and a few other great Danes. René had organised a food festival on an ex-military island in Copenhagen harbour. The festival had attracted some of the most innovative and influential chefs, Attendees got to try dishes scientists, food system analysts, journalists...and me! www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
by the guest speakers
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on tour! Clockwise from below: speakers at MAD; Andoni Aduriz, Alex Atala, Gaston Acurio and René Redzepi; Michel Bras assisted by Oliver Stephens, a Noma chef
“ The festival had attracted some of the most innovative and influential chefs, scientists, food system analysts, journalists...and me!” We were talking about the food festival more animatedly then any music festival I have been to. The names I had marked off on the line-up were (drum roll): René Redzepi; Miles Irving, who is leading the foraging revolution in this country; Daniel Patterson, one of the best chefs in the US; Iñaki Aizpitarte, part of Le Fooding in Paris; Magnus Nilsson from Fäviken, one of the new best chefs in the world; Ben Shewry, one of the best in Australia; Massimo Bottura, one of the best in Italy; Michel Bras, a legendary French chef with three Michelin stars; Harold McGee who is held in high regard his books on food science; David Chang, chef-owner of Momofuku restaurants in NYC and Andoni Aduriz, one of the most innovative chefs in Spain with a two-Michelin-starred restaurant. With this level of talent and skill all in one place we were very much looking forward to the festival.
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We arived and I went to my hotel, which gave a new meaning to two stars and reminded me more of a cabin on a boat than a hotel room. The floor couldn’t fit four people lying down (proven later by three Swedish girls and James...). Meanwhile James and Isaac went to stay in Malmo and go out for great meals with one of the best food photographers in the world, Per-Anders Jorgensen. There were some amazing speakers during the festival (see next page) but highlights also included everyone eating together on the final night underneath a bridge where a natural wine supplier has a restaurant. The meal was great: tasty cheeses, fresh rye bread, hot soup, salads, grilled fish, berries and ice-cream for dessert. After the meal was finished, the French chefs had smashed some of the glasses and got a bit naked on top of the tables, I left for the airport. It was an amazing trip. I am sure it gave everyone things to think about and I am looking forward to next year.” www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
Just a few of the incredible speakers who appeared at the MAD Food Camp Tor Norretranders, Food Systems analyst René gave a short but powerful introduction to this speaker: “He’s the most intelligent man I know”. His talk was about how our food system has changed and possible models for the future of farming. He explained statistics to the audience with an underlying sadness: “90% of crop diversity has disappeared in the last generation...There is a war on our food system...60% of food calories intake comes from four crops: corn, rice, potatoes and wheat.” He talked about the degrading effect that monocultures have on soil and how there needs to be a new approach if we want keep living on this planet. Miles Irving, forager Miles is author of the Foragers Handbook and is responsible for helping revitalise foraging in the UK, Ireland and some of mainland Europe. He would go foraging in the woods with his grandfather, who would tell Miles that there was treasure there waiting to be found. After his talk he took people around the field finding edible plants, seeds and weeds, like fennel blossom which tasted like a rock candy version of fennel, shockingly sweet. The field looked nondescript to the untrained eye but it was full of things to eat. Daniel Patterson, chef One of the first chefs to give a talk, Daniel is from a restaurant in San Francisco, called Coi. He spoke about the history of beetroot and its place on menus around the world. He said he clocked the dish on seven menus in the local area when he was thinking about giving his talk. He handed out beetroot gummy bears to everyone at the end of his talk which he had spent months perfecting the recipe for!
to t n a w rk and wo vel? tra
Alex Atala, chef at Restaurant D.O.M in Sao Paulo Hans Herman, food systems analyst Another man with impressive and worrying statistics about our food system. “75% of agri-diversity has been lost in 50 years... and three major companies control what is eaten today by controlling seeds.” During the Q&A session things got quite interesting as difficult questions were being asked of both Tor and Hans about the future of food. When a question about control over what we eat came up, Daniel Patterson gave an encouraging answer: “Industrial agriculture has changed what is eaten in one generation. But what that means is it can be changed again in one more generation.” I was a bit stunned for a second by how simply this was put. Inaki Aizpitarte, chef Inaki did a food demonstration, involving salty sea asparagus/samphire being made into a risotto with parsley butter. This was paired with a crisp, dry, citrussy white wine. His was a hilarious demo, as well as being very good and tasty. Magnus Milsson, chef Magnus gave a calm and understated insight into how his extraordinary restaurant works. It is located in northern Sweden where for six months of the year nothing grows as it is covered in snow. He supplies the restaurant with local produce, including from the small organic farm that they have. He showed us how they store vegetables in sand to preserve them, the various pickles that are made and how he rotates the crops on eight growing plots around the restaurant.
to find out more about how you could become part of the Soho House Group team contact cookhouse@sohohouse.com
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
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meat the gang
Have a butc C O O K H O U S E 1 6
www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
hers at this Chefs who know where their meat comes from treat it with more respect. Here, three chefs explain why butchery is important to them
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meat the gang
NEW YORK In New York, executive chef Paul Gerard is passionate about butchery: “In Soho House New York, we butcher, break down, snap bones, trim fat, dissect, section, subdivide, slice, dice ‘n’ chop all primal cuts! Butchering on a grander scale, especially here in The Meatpacking District, is readily accessible, and the opportunity to learn the craft is at any cook’s precariously-placed fingertips. I for one, at 16, had the luck of landing a position with a local butcher and got to learn the process of breaking down freshlyslaughtered veal right smack dab in the inner city. It’s a skill that is pertinent to the process of cooking and absolutely needs to be reflected upon with regards to respecting meat as not only something that comes wrapped in plastic and branded with barcodes, but as a living and breathing creature. Whoever handles it subsequently needs to make sure that the animal was not slain in vain. When a cook goes through the process of being elbow-deep for hours in what looks like the set of a Dario Argento film, sliding steel across steel, wielding hooks, and hot-boning at the foot of meat trees and gambrels, it’s an occasion for gratitude toward the livestock that will be tonight’s special.
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The cooks here save the trimmings for staff sandwiches and render the fat for fried potatoes. We grasp the big picture from side of beef to steak, and value the weight with much more reverence than a tick on an invoice and the menu price of a piece of meat on a plate. It’s so easy to get lost in the process of serving one thousand diners a day, and the tools of our trade become so much mortar and bricks; but to butcher, even from convenient cuts – like racks of ribs and shells of sirloin – keeps in mind that the task is only as noble as we demand it remains.
Paul Gerard: ‘Cooking is a craft’
There is too much of a cut-off between butchering and cooking. The frightening fact of kitchen life of late is that too many cooks can’t cut a deal, let alone veal. The view imposed on them through chef-driven fare is far from a philosophy of food; it is an attitude toward art. They want to create cool coloured oils and swirl leggy wines at crisp-clothed tables in clean chef coats because they’ve drifted from the reptilian brain of cookery. They’ve cut themselves off from those who knew how to cook what they caught and killed with their own hands. They’ve released themselves from sufficiently suffering with the slaughtered, and creating a karmic flow that all good butchers believe is their salvation, knowing that salivating alone is not enough. I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again a thousand times before my time chained to the range has been pardoned by the governors of grace…cooking is a craft. Skilled labour. It should be well-regarded for its working-class ways. If you are not skilled from soup to nuts, you may want to roll up your sleeves, sharpen your blades, bend down toward the cutting board and put your back into it!”
f a “ There is too much o g n i r e h c t u b n e e w t e b cut-off and cooking” www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
“They’ve released themselves from sufficiently suffering with the slaughtered”
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meat the gang
babington house At Babington, everyone gets involved in preparing the week’s meat, explains executive chef Ronnie Bonetti “We train our guys to break down carcasses from head to tail. In most restaurants meat come in with a sticker on it saying “sirloin” or “rump” and chefs don’t know where each cut comes from on the animal. We’re losing that knowledge but it’s important to know what can be used for different styles of cooking – that you can’t braise or grill certain bits. A leg of lamb is so much leaner than a shoulder for example, and if you sit them next to each other you can actually see why a shoulder is better for a slow cook. Plus it’s just a great sight at the beginning of the week, seeing all these products come in, ready for us to work with. Each week we take a whole lamb and saw the legs down and break them into muscles – rump, round and silverside – and we marinate it and then chargrill and serve it with seasonal vegetables. My favourite at the moment is broccoli with an anchovy dressing. The middle we roast in the wood oven and serve big chunks of it pink. We do crispy lamb belly with carrots and artichokes and salsa verde and the shoulder we turn into Lancashire hotpot or meatballs.
We get a half pig every week too – pigs are pretty cool. We chop off the shoulder and fore rib and keep it for Sunday roast or to cook slowly in milk with lemon peel and sage so it falls off the bone. We do pork belly with crackling and lentils and the legs we divide into muscles: we might do them Milanese style or marinated with lemon and thyme and served with mustard and greens. We make pig’s head terrine and use any leftovers for other terrines, too. Sometimes we get a beef rump and loin which is basically the ribs and back end. We get rump steaks and a bit of fillet from that for carpaccio or tartare and take the t-bone of the loin to serve with chips and bearnaise. A lot of the birds we get are pretty clean already. We take legs from mallards to use for game sauce and roast the crowns and we get a bigger-than-average chicken, around 2.2kg from Castlemead farm, a couple of farms over from here. We serve it for two, boned and flattened so it’s easier to carve and to share. They taste like chicken should taste and and because the skin is more developed its goes crackly and golden – after all, who doesn’t like crispy chicken skin?”
Ronnie Bonetti
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” l o o c y t t e r p e r a s g i “P www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
Dean Street Townhouse and The Electric Executive chef Stephen Tonkin makes sure everyone at the Electric and Dean Street Townhouse gets to learn about butchering “Recently we’ve had several suppliers come in and give demos for the staff about preparing meat, game, oysters and fish, and whenever we’ve got something new in the kitchen, we make sure we say to the staff, “Come here and look at this”. Places which do fewer covers than us can do more in-house than we’re able to – you have to have a lot of room in order to do a lot of butchering. You have to ask, where can I store half a cow?
Stephen Tonkin
We get whole calves’ livers in and de-vent (remove the veins) and peel them. Calves liver is famous for its waste, so you have to know that you’re wasting the right bits. There are holes in the liver where the veins run through – often if you think you’re eating bad liver it’s because they haven’t been properly prepared. A liver can be quite a sight – they’re about as long as from your elbow to hand and weigh 5-6 kg. It will still have blood in it, so you’re constantly mopping it and it can feel like you don’t know where to start! Often people use the back of a spoon to peel them – it’s enormously satisfying if you can get it done in one piece, and a nightmare if it breaks. The liver is prepared into neat slices for service and the trimmings are used for parfaits or stuffings. We want to maximise the product and minimise the waste.
“ These are important, handme-down skills”
Sometimes it’s about getting over the fear of an ingredient, like a whole table of pigeons with their heads on, still looking at you, or a rabbit coming in with fur on. We don’t pull out feathers any more, but we do things like removing wish bones and wing knuckles from grouse, and we save the hearts, livers and kidneys of game birds for sauces, along with carcasses. These are important, hand-me-down skills.”
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Chef Jon Pollard (centre) and team
Simply le best Le Fooding is a French culinary collective that is all about promoting unpretentious food rather than high gastronomy. Its team write guidebooks and organise small-scale and unusual food festivals. The latest was Le Fooding Milano, which brought together top chefs from all over the world who cook Italian-inspired food, including Jon Pollard and his crew from Pizza East Shoreditch. For three nights, dinner guests were fed meals that played around with the idea of Italian food – from citrus spaghetti to pine-smoked baccala – in a gallery space deep inside an industrial estate on the edge of Milan. Matthew Luscombe went along to help:
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“I flew to Milan with Jon and Davide, one of the Pizza East floor managers. Le Fooding promotes good, accessible food and the event featured different chefs cooking Italian food every night. However, we were there all weekend because guests got a slice of our veal meatball pizza when they arrived (the organisers had sorted us out with a good-sized wood-burning oven). They were served on little boards with a hole to rest your glass of champagne in, which you don’t get every day with pizza, especially not in a warehouse on an industrial estate. We were working next to a team from Pizzaiolo in San Francisco – they make a pizza with marinated squid on it, which works because they cook the pizzas relatively slowly. It was good to see people doing our jobs from the other side of the world and interesting to see how they did it. We were all there because we do pizzas and because they’re not necessarily what you’d call traditional. www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse
Le Fooding “ We were all there because we do pizzas not and because they’re ’d necessarily what you call traditional” Every night a different menu was served by different chefs, like Moreno Cedroni from Madoninna del Pescatore in the Marche, who served crazy squid and berry hotdogs. Mario Carbone from Torrisi Italian Specialties in New York cooked up fresh corn polenta. Other chefs included Cristiano Tomei from L’Imbuto in Viareggio, Giovanni Passerini from Bistrot Rino in Paris, Christian Puglisi from Relae in Copenaghen and Pier Paolo Picchi from Sao Paolo. The main dining room was completely dark at the beginning of the evening and the waiters had to wear head torches. It was very dramatic as it gradually got lighter over time. It was set up with banqueting tables so everyone ate together. Some guests came on all three days. It was a very foodie crowd and quite a few of them knew about Pizza East, had visited or said they were going to. They were people from France and the UK as well as Italians too. Everyone who had come to eat was really enthusiastic. They were out to experience something special.” Jon Pollard says: “Le Fooding is made up of really good people with an interesting perspective on food. A lot of thought went into the experience that they were giving people each night - guests’ first couple of hours were spent on what felt like a film set of an Italian street. Then during the part of dinner held in darkness, there were people dressed in animal suits scaring the guests - which of course everyone loved. All the chefs were given free reign to serve whatever they wanted and it didn’t feel all at all corporate.”
D N U O S D? GOO
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C O O K H O U S E 2 3
playing hard
out of the kitchen Following on from the last issue’s discoveries of what Soho House chefs get up to in their spare time, we’ve learned even more – from sculpting to hard-core assault courses. Phew!
Fire & knives
Paul Gerard, Jeffrey Mineses and Markus Pieterse
and was “ I fell into a mud hole which completely submerged, of” the guys got a kick out
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In New York, executive chef Paul Gerard plus crew members Markus Pieterse and Jeffrey Mineses recently took part in the Spartan Race, as team Fire and Knives. This crazy assault and obstacle course is eight miles long and takes an average of two and a half hours to complete. It involves everything from jumping over fire to crawling and climbing through mud. “You know what, I was no worse for wear ‘n’ tear and I’m twice the age (almost) of the other guys!” says Paul. “We did it in under two hours, which is better than average and not too shabby. At one point I fell into a mud hole and was completely submerged, which the guys got a kick out of. My trainer broke his toe half way through and completed the race at pace (seven-minute miles) with me – a Brooklyn-born 42 year old – and Markus, a veritable super-youth raised in, uh, helllooo AFRICA! I should get points just for signing up with that kid! Jeffrey was wounded two thirds of the through but pushed on running straight-legged through the jungles of Staten island like his leg was in a splint. He fulfilled his Spartan duties despite the pain as the sting of our tongues would’ve been far worse than the hamstring that held him back!”
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Doing chisel Maykel Sanchez, a chef at Miami Beach House, is a self-taught sculptor who sells his pieces. When he’s not working in the kitchen he can be found chiselling away at huge pieces of rock, stone and wood. “I’m inspired by love, and by art. Every day, I’m looking for ideas from the things that I see and that happen to me, wherever I go. How long each piece takes depends on the size and complexity of what I’m trying to do, so each one varies.”
“ I’m inspired by love”
Fitty City Meanwhile, over in London, Dean Street Townhouse junior sous chef Phil Clark trained hard to take part in the Survival of the Fittest London Challenge. “It was 10km, with 10 obstacles and 7,000 people competed in waves. I trained for months, after shifts or between shifts. I’m fitter than I’ve been for years! I had to run at least 10km three times a week and I did lots of weights – basically body-building. I was really Phil Clark: Darwin’s choice pleased because I was aiming to finish in 1 hour 20 minutes, but I did it in 50 minutes, including an assault course through mud, carrying 20kg bags of cement, climbing walls and ropes, crawling through gravel-filled tunnels. I think I’ve torn my achilles and I’ve definitely got a few battle wounds, but I’m already trying to sort out doing another one!”
wotz yr ? game
few “I’ve definitely got a battle wounds”
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C O O K H O U S E 2 5
goose-y gander Joe McCanta and Matt Hayes on the roof at Shoreditch House
Up on the roof As part of Cookhouse’s ongoing partnership with Grey Goose Vodka, this issue saw mixologist Joe McCanta and Soho House Group executive pastry chef Matt Hayes take to the rooftops of London. Why? So that they could devise a seasonal pudding and seasonal cocktail to match! Go to www.sohohouse.com/cookhouse to see our exclusive video of how they got on. C O O K H O U S E 2 6
Joe and Matt decided to brave the winter weather (a little snifter of vodka is always useful on these occasions) and take their kitchen al fresco on the roof of Shoreditch House. As the sun set over the City skyline, Matt rustled up a delicious pear and mulled jelly trifle – check out the recipe overleaf. “You don’t want the pears to be too ripe,” explained Matt. “Otherwise they’ll lose their shape and overcook really easily.” He also minimised waste by using the 50/50 sugar and water syrup that he’d poached the pears in to soak the sponge for the trifle. “Then you get even more of the flavour of the pears into the dish,” he said.
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La Poire, Le Noir
Mulled wine trifle
y “ Joe was particularl interested in how Matt made his custard” Joe was particularly interested in how Matt made his custard. “I always have problems with custard! It’s so easy for it to catch or to go like scrambled eggs.” Matt talked him through his technique: “I’m using double cream here as we want it to be really thick – normally you’d use milk and cream. Bring it to the boil and get it as hot as possible without boiling over. Then, when you’ve got everything back in the pan, whisk until it thickens and as soon as it does, take it off the heat and whisk for 30-40 seconds so that it loses some of its residual heat and doesn’t keep cooking.” This was a eureka moment for Joe. “That’s where I always go wrong!” The mulled wine jelly was a great success – and Joe learned another top tip. “Soak the gelatine in iced water rather than warm water, before adding it to the wine. Otherwise it will start to disintegrate.” Joe’s cocktail, La Poire, Le Noir (recipe, right), was a great match for the finished trifle. He used Grey Goose La Poire, which is made with French William pears, and shook it up with pear liqueur and a home-made pear and redwine reduction, which contained a touch of mace. Double strained and served with a mulled brandied cherry in a Martini glass, it was a delicious end to the afternoon.
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50 mls / 1½ oz Grey Goose La Poire Vodka 10 mls / 1/3 oz Rothman & Winter pear liqueur 20 mls / ¾ oz pear red wine reduction 20 mls / ¾ oz fresh lemon juice 1 tsp clove powder nutmeg and mace
For the red wine reduction: in a saucepan combine 1 part pear juice, 1 part sugar and ½ part house red wine (Merlot). Cook down for 15 minutes and transfer to a bottle to cool. Add 1 sprinkle of dried, powdered mace. For the cocktail: shake ingredients and double strain into a Martini glass. Top with a sprinkle of mace and freshly grated nutmeg and cloves.
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winter puddings
Seasonal sweets These puddings by Soho House Group executive pastry chef Matt Hayes would all make a great alternative to the traditional Christmas or figgy pudding, but are also perfect throughout winter whenever you’re in need of a cheering sweet treat.
Pear and mulled wine jelly trifle serves 6 For the mulled wine jelly: 375ml / 12 oz red wine 1 star anise 1 stick cinnamon, broken zest of 1 orange 100g / ½ cup caster sugar, or to taste 3 leaves of gelatine
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In a pan gently warm the wine, spices, zest and sugar for 20 mins. Do not bring to the boil. Leave to infuse for 3-4 hours. When the wine has infused, heat it back up and soak the gelatine leaf in ice water until soft. Mix the two together. For the sponge: 3 eggs 70g / 1/3 cup sugar 60g / ½ cup flour 30g / ¼ cup cornflour Whisk the eggs and sugar until light and airy. Gently
fold in the flour and cornflour taking care not to knock the air out. Pour the mix into a loaf tin and bake at 170°C / 340°F for 15 – 20 mins or until cooked. The sponge should be golden and springy.
a bowl and whisk for 30 – 40 seconds to remove the residual heat. Leave to cool.
For the trifle custard: 250 ml / 1 cup double (heavy) cream 100g / ½ cup egg yolk 50g / ¼ cup sugar 7g / 1 tbsp cornflour
Peel and slice the pears in half and gently simmer in the sugar and water until soft. This should take 15 – 20 mins. To assemble the trifles slice the pears (each half into 6 pieces) and put 4 in each glass. Cut the sponge in to centimetre dice, soak with the pear poaching liquor and put 3 – 4 pieces in each glass. Spoon in the warm jelly to fill halfway and put in the fridge to set for 2-3 hours. Spoon over the custard then return to the fridge to set. Finally top with whipped cream and toasted almonds.
Bring the cream to the boil. Mix the sugar with the cornflour then add to the egg yolk. Pour half the cream onto the yolks and whisk well. Return to the pan and on a low heat whisk continually until the custard thickens. This stage requires the most care, as if you cook it for too long it will split. When it’s thickened pour in to
For the poached pears: 2 pears (firm not ripe) 500ml /2 cups water 250g / 2 ½ cups sugar
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Sticky toffee pudding with clotted cream serves 6 For the sticky toffee pudding: 60g / ½ stick butter 170g / 1 ¼ cups dark brown sugar 170g / 6 oz chopped dates 170g / 1 ¼ cups self raising flour 2 eggs 150ml / ¾ cup water 5g / 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda for the sticky toffee sauce 500ml / 2 cups double cream
20g / 1 oz black treacle 20g / 1 oz dark brown sugar 15g / 1½ tbsp demerara sugar 7g / 1 tbsp caster sugar Boil the chopped dates, water and bicarbonate of soda until dates have softened and leave to cool. Cream together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time and mix until smooth. Add flour then the cold date-and-water mix. Pour the mixture into a large loaf tin (26cm x 10cm/ 10’ x 4’) and bake at 170°C/340°F for 40 mins.
Cinnamon and apple crumble serves 6 For the apple compote: 500g / 1 lb Bramley apples 500g / 1 lb Granny Smith apples 20g / 1 oz butter 5g / 1 tsp cinnamon 100g / ½ cup sugar for the crumble topping: 200g / 1 cup demerara sugar 200g / 1 cup butter
280g / 2 1/3 cups flour
Peel, halve and core the apples, then cut into 1cm chunks. In a pan melt the butter then add the chopped apple. As the apple starts to break down add the sugar and cinnamon. To make to crumble topping
To check the cake is cooked insert a small knife into the centre – when it’s ready the knife will come out clean. To make the sauce put all the ingredients into a pan and bring to the boil. Slice the loaf into 6 slices and place flat in an oven dish. Pour half the sauce over. Cover with foil and put back into the oven for 10 mins. As the sauce begins to boil the cake will soak it up and become moist. To finish, put the warm cake in bowls, pour over the remaining sauce and serve with a scoop of clotted cream
place all the ingredients in a bowl and rub in with your fingertips to give a breadcrumb-like consistency. Put the apple compote in an ovenproof dish and cover with the crumble topping. Bake at 180°C / 360°C for 30 – 40 minutes or until golden. Serve the crumble with thick cream or custard.
And finally...a stateside dessert Dolores Munoz is pastry chef at Soho West Hollywood and this is one of her favourites for this time of year.
Spiced chocolate cream serves 4 ¾ cup / 150g granulated sugar 1 ¾ cup / 415 ml heavy cream ¾ cup / 180 ml milk 7 large egg yolks 7oz / 200g 72% good quality chocolate, chopped ¼ tsp vanilla extract ½ tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp ground all spice ¼ tsp ground nutmeg ½ tsp ground ginger 1/8 tsp pinch of salt In a medium-sized bowl whisk together the egg yolks and
half of the sugar until well combined. Keep on the side. In a medium-sized saucepan, bring to a boil the milk, cream, spices, salt and the rest of the sugar. Carefully pour a third of the hot mixture into the yolk mixture and whisk until well combined. Pour the hot yolk mixture back in with the hot milk mixture and cook on medium heat, stirring constantly with a rubber spatula. Cook the custard until the liquid coats the back of a spoon or until it reaches 170°F / 76°C on a candy (jam) thermometer.
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Turn the heat off and pour a third of the custard into the chocolate and whisk until all chocolate is melted. Pour in the rest of the custard and whisk until completely combined and the mixture is smooth and shiny. Strain the mixture through a fine mesh strainer. Pour mixture into ramekins, set in refrigerator for at least 6 hours or overnight to set. Served with a dollop of slightly sweetened cream. If you’d like, this pudding can also be accompanied with ginger snaps.
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members’ recipe
GOOD FOR YOU...
es is from members This indulgent recipe for Guinness browni rs and business David Lesniak and David Muniz, life partne t bakery in Chiswick, partners behind the fabulous Outsider Tar book Baked in America west London. It features in their brand new
e turned up. Neither “Some time during a research frenzy this recip stout. But given k of us drink much and we certainly don’t drin or smell two breweries where we live in London, we either pass by ant for New York in full gear every day. We also have a pench rs regularly. So these appea ess tabloid gossip, where a certain heir lends a deep and seemed a no-brainer to include. The Guinness unique velvety texture.” mysterious spicy flavour, not to mention a
MAKES 12 8oz / 225g / 1½ cups allpurpose or plain flour 6oz / 175g / 1 cup + 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder ½ teaspoon kosher salt 12oz / 340g / 2 cups bittersweet chocolate, chopped 6oz / 175g / 1 cup white chocolate, chopped Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/gas mark 5. Butter a pan, 12 x 9 x 2in/30 x 23 x 5cm, and line the bottom and 2 sides with parchment paper. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, cocoa and salt and set aside. In a heatproof bowl set over simmering water (also known as a double boiler), melt the dark chocolate, white chocolate and the butter. Set aside to cool slightly.
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Put the eggs and sugar into the bowl of an electric mixer and beat on high speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. The mixture will become smooth and creamy with a pale yellow colour. This is also called the ‘ribbon’ stage, because when the beater is removed from the bowl the mixture will slowly ooze in wide bands back into the bowl as opposed to dripping in droplets. Next add the cooled chocolate mixture and continue beating on
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6oz / 175g / ¾ cup unsalted butter, cut into cubes 6 large eggs, at room temperature 12oz / 340g / 1½ cups granulated sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 16 fl oz / 460ml / 2 cups Guinness stout, at room temperature 9oz / 250g / 1½ cups semisweet chocolate chips
medium speed until thoroughly combined. Scrape the bottom of the bowl to make sure all the egg is incorporated into the chocolate. There should be no yellowish streaks in the batter at this point. Reduce the speed to low, stir in the vanilla then gradually add the flour mixture, stirring only until the white disappears. With the mixer still on low, slowly pour in the Guinness and continue stirring until the batter is even, with no traces of Guinness whirling about in the bowl. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and sprinkle the chocolate chips evenly over the top. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until a small knife emerges clean from the centre. These have a tendency to pull away from the sides of the pan, so don’t be alarmed. They may also shrink a bit further while cooling. Cool completely in the pan before cutting them into 3in/8cm squares.
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