Cook Islands Sun Visitor Guide Edition 60

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enjoycookislands.com

FREE VISITOR GUIDE | JANUARY – JUNE 2015 | EDITION 60

TIPS & ADVICE DINING & ENTERTAINMENT SHOPPING IDEAS LOCAL STORIES

Photo: Craig Owen

g n i t a r Celeb Years

��

of Cook Islands Independence in 2015 PAGE 3 COOK ISLANDS Your preferred rental car company

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CoOK ISLANDS SuN

Kia Orana

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Take some time to visit the sister islands of Rarotonga and completely unwind. Whether you are snorkeling in the most beautiful lagoon in the world in Aitutaki, exploring the untouched rainforests of Atiu or the magnificent caves of Mangaia, Mauke and Mitiaro, there is always more to discover in the Cook Islands. May we thank you for choosing the Cook Islands as your holiday destination and we hope that you will have a memorable experience of this wonderful destination and what is has to offer. Visit us at: www.cookislands. travel or like us on Facebook. We hope to see you again in the near future! Kia Manuia,

hen you arrive in the Cook Islands you will find the destination easy to navigate, the people are kind-hearted, the culture is lively and you will have instant access to stunning white sandy beaches, lush mountains, café, restaurants and many other activities. This is what makes the Cook Islands unique and we are proud to call it our home! We thrive on providing a unique experience for our visitors here in the Cook Islands. There are many activities you can do which include visiting the Punanga Nui Market, attending church, island night cultural shows, lagoon cruise, trekking, cycling, snorkeling, diving, fishing and so forth. Your accommodation will be able to assist with these activities or come in our Visitor Centre in Avarua for more information.

In this issue

Halatoa Fua

CEO Cook Islands Tourism Corporation

PICK UP YOUR FREE TOURIST GUIDE MAP! PUBLISHER/EDITOR Alastair Blount MOBILE +682 77 183 TELEPHONE +682 20222 EMAIL cisun@oyster.net.ck DESIGN & LAYOUT Justine Ramsay EMAIL justine@justineramsay.com.au DISTRIBUTION RAROTONGA Danny Kelly Telephone 77 876 or 20 777

S

of Rarotonga

5 Brief User’s Guide

to the Cook Islands

FASHION

6 Fashion

LOCAL STORIES 7 Enjoy our local beer Book review: ‘Pa and the Dolphins’ BLACK PEARLS 8 Q&A - Buying Black Pearls in the Cooks 9 Manihiki The Pearl Industry Grading Guide to Cook Islands Pearls Cook Islands Rito Cook Islands 11 The story behind Te Tika, bioactive Cook Islands oils

TIM ETAB LE

FREE

VISITO

R GUIDE

60

ON 60

ITI 15 | ED NE 20

Y – JU JANUAR IDE |

ITOR GU

FREE VIS

DISTRIBUTION AITUTAKI Bishops Cruises Telephone 31 009 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 30 Avarua, Rarotonga, Cook Islands

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10

17 Invest in the Cook

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Islands

18 The story behind

Highland Paradise 19 Doctor recalls his years in the South Pacific ADVENTURE 20 The dogs of Rarotonga The art of tivaivai The ‘everlasting’ Ei Partners in Adventure 21 The definitive island boy - Papa Jack Saving our reefs for future generations 22 Born out of passion

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AITUTAKI 23 Visit Aitutaki 24 The Ukulele - an instrument of happiness 25 The Secret Garden is no secret anymore! AITU 27 Atiu - small island, big surprises Birdman George

| JANU ARY – JU

NE 20 15 | ED ITION

DINING & ENTERTAINMENT 12 Akirata Cultural Dance Troupe Te Vara Nui 13 Vera Hunter 14 Rarotonga Eating Out Guide 16 Akirata Cultural Arts Troupe LOCAL CULTURE

- Stylish Kaftans

WEDDINGS & SPAS

AI A MA PS

A MA P & BU

ISLAND INFORMATION

4 Around the island

10 Weddings in the

Available throughout the islands FREE AITUTAKI | AITU | MANG TO NG FR EE RA RO

WHAT'S NEW? 3 Celebrating 50 Years of Cook Islands Independence

OUTER ISLANDS 28 The Outer Islands of the Cooks

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CoOK ISLANDS SuN

WHAT’S NEW?

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THE COOK ISLANDS CELEBRATES 50TH YEAR OF ‘SELF GOVERNMENT’

C E L E B R AT E

OUR JOURNEY AS ONE PEOPLE

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eading up to Cook Islands ‘independence day’ on 4th August 1965, the islands had evolved politically. Briefly, the Cook Islands became a British protectorate in 1888; in 1901, New Zealand annexed the country; in 1949, Cook Islanders automatically became citizens of New Zealand; the Cook Islands remained a New Zealand protectorate until 1965, when the New Zealand Government offered self-government. After independence, Cook Islanders retained their right to New Zealand citizenship, as the Cooks are still ‘officially’ under New Zealand sovereignty; Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II remains the official head of state. The annual ‘Constitution Celebrations’, which have been held each August since 1965 was renamed in 2001 with the Cook Islands Maori title of Te Maeva Nui, which translates to ‘the great celebration’. In 2015, the celebrations will fill the entire year, with special

emphasis on Te Maeva Nui. In his role as Chairman of the Steering Committee for the 50th Anniversary celebrations, Nick Henry said his job is to coordinate events for the full twelve months and to inspire and engage the community from all islands and Cook Islanders from overseas. “The mission is to carry a message of inclusiveness, identity and national pride,” said Nick, quoting his grandfather, Albert Royle Henry: “No one in the tribe to

events, raffles and fundraisers. More recently, I’ve been involved in national events such as the Pacific Games, Olympic Torch relays and various successful bids to host regional sporting events, including the upcoming Oceania Athletics Masters 2015”. Nick said that most Cook Islanders stand on the shoulders of their tupuna (ancestors). “They have elevated us to new levels of thinking, extended

PHOTO: DAVID KIRKLAND

It is fitting that Nick Henry, the grandson of the Cook Islands’ first Prime Minister, Albert Henry, chair the 50th Celebrations Steering Committee on behalf of the Office of the Prime Minister, Henry Puna. According to Nick, who is of Aitutaki descent, 2015 will be a year filled with events and activities celebrating 50 years since the Cook Islands became self-governing in 1965.

naturally. From an outsiders perspective it may be seen as onerous or even a burden, but right throughout the Pacific, as Islanders we receive huge pleasure from a genuine act of giving with no expectation of receiving”. Nick said the crowning glory of this year’s celebrations will be Te Maeva Nui, which literally means ‘the great celebration’. “The Ministry of Culture will deliver one of the finest events we have seen in

“No one in the tribe to be left out... no one in the Village to be forgotten” Albert Royle Henry be left out... no one in the Village to be forgotten” Nick Henry has a background in event management and sponsorship. “I’ve been involved in event management since school days from birthdays, weddings and school dances, to sporting

our abilities and indeed given us an innate sense of responsibility. I am proud of what the Cook Islands has achieved over the past fifty years and I really want us to acknowledge our kia orana spirit, that sense of hospitality and giving that comes

decades, fifteen teams will be competing, their level of performance will be unparalleled,” said Nick. “Fifty years on we need to celebrate our differences between our islands and indeed the common bonds and blood ties that connect

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us as a nation. 2015 is going to be our largest Te Maeva Nui ever. Don’t miss it!” There are many activities being specially planned forthe 50th Anniversary celebration year, one of them is a community health program. “50 days for 50 years - a health kick and climate change mitigation program. From 1st January to 4th August there are 216 days. We have asked school children, plus private and public sector workers, to make an effort to cycle or walk to work for at least 50 of those days”. Nick mentions some of the other concepts and activities that will be integral contributors 50th Anniversary celebration in 2015. 50 National Treasures seeking advice on who or what are regarded as ‘treasures’ of the Nation; 50 Milestones – a 300 word essay competition for the public and NGOs to highlight the Nation’s journey since self-

government; Recognition of Achievements – recognising and acknowledging personal contributions to society; Constitution Park – developing gardens and tree-planting exercises with schools on the reclaimed land next to Punanga Nui, creating an open air venue for family gatherings, concerts and other occasions; Pacific in Stone Legacy – a week-long ceremony of sculptors from the Cook Islands and around the Pacific, carving stones throughout the town area. “As 2015 events and activities are finalized throughout the Cooks fifteen islands they will be featured and regularly updated on our specially-designed website, www.ci50th.com, or visit Cook Islands Tourism in Avarua and Aitutaki for more information. “The people of the Cook Islands warmly invite you to join us in our 50th Anniversary celebrations.”

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CoOK ISLANDS SuN

USEFUL INFORMATION

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AROUND RAROTONGA

The main road is just 32km around the island but there is much to discover on the island of Rarotonga. To help you get your bearings, here are some of the places of interest that await you. The numbering starts in the township of Avarua.

SS Maitai Shipwreck.

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Located just off-shore from town, the engine block sticks out of the water. The SS Maitai traded regularly between the Cooks and Tahiti before it ran aground in 1916.

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AVARUA

NIKAO

4 TUPAPA

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MATAVERA

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Arai-Te-Tonga Marae is about

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ARORANGI AKAOA N

RD

NGATAnGIIA

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RUTAKI

MURI 8

10 VAIMAANGA ARA T APU

TITIKAVEKA 9

SL C00K I ANDS

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The Beachcomber

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The Cook Islands Christian Church (CICC), was built in 1853. The grave of the first Prime Minister of the Cook Islands, Albert Henry, is in the churchyard. You are welcome to attend church services on Sunday mornings.

Sunday at Christian Church of Cook Islands, Avarua

Image: David Kirkland

building was built by the London Missionary Society in 1845 and virtually destroyed by a cyclone in 1968. Restoration was undertaken in 1992. The complex is now an art gallery, retails shops and The Café.

The Beachcomber complex

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The Para O Tane Palace,

was once the site of Taputapuatea marae, the largest and most sacred marae (meeting ground) on Rarotonga. Today, the building is a private residence.

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Takamoa Theological College was the first

European-style building in the Cooks. It was built by missionaries in the 1830s and extensively renovated in 2009. The College trains pastors and missionaries for the CICC.

two kilometres east of Avarua. A small sign points inland to the marae (meeting ground). These are important cultural sites and still used for traditional ceremonies.

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Avana, the circle of seven stones beside the harbour at Avana commemorates the departure of a fleet of canoes to New Zealand around 1350AD. Each stone stands for a canoe that completed the journey.

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The Fruits of Rarotonga

is a popular snorkeling spot. The best snorkeling is just west of the car park. Be aware of the reef passages, which can be dangerous.

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Black Rock

just past the Golf Club is a good snorkeling spot. As the area is next to the airport, on most days you will have the startling experience of watching the low-flying approaches of airlines that serve Rarotonga.

Wigmore’s Waterfall

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isn’t signposted but follow the little road inland beside the abandoned hotel at Vaimaanga. Ask at Wigmore’s Superstore if you can’t find the turn off.

Aviatu Harbour

handles most of the country’s imports and exports. It is pleasant area to walk around. Often in the afternoon after school children swim off the wharf, and most of the gaming fishing boats are moored there. Afternoons at Aviatu Harbour

Muri Beach

with its wide lagoon and picturesque little islands is scenic and safe for swimming, sailing, kayaking, paddle-boarding, kite-surfing, windsurfing and beach activities. Muri has many shops, eating places and accommodation.

Paddleboarding on Muri Lagoon

Image: David Kirkland

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ARA T APU

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Image: David Kirkland

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The Punanga Nui Market on Saturdays

Cooling off at Wigmore Falls

8am-2pm is ‘huge’ for fresh fruit and vegetables, arts and crafts, clothing and music, food and drinks and cultural performances. It is also open Monday to Friday 8am-4pm with limited outlets.

11.

Aroa Beach,

just west of The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa and opposite The Dive Centre is popular for swimming and snorkeling.

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CoOK ISLANDS SuN

USEFUL INFORMATION

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A ‘BRIEF’ USER’S GUIDE TO THE COOK ISLANDS For much more information, see the friendly people at the Cook Islands Visitor Information Centre in downtown Avarua, Rarotonga Tel. +682 29 435, or in downtown Aruntanga, Aitutaki Tel. +682 31 767. Also visit www.cookislands.travel AIR RAROTONGA Cook Islands’ only airline with flights to Aitutaki and to the outer islands.

COOK ISLANDS VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE On Rarotonga, the Cook Islands Tourist Information Centre is situated in Avarua on the main road between the ANZ Bank and Banana Court - open Monday-Friday 8am-4pm, plus Saturday & Public Holidays 10am-1pm (Tel.+682 29435); on Aitutaki, the office is downtown (Tel. +682 31767); in Atiu, Tel. +682 33435.

CREDIT CARDS

AITUTAKI Forty-five minutes flight from Rarotonga, Aitutaki is usually warmer than Rarotonga. There are no dogs on Aitutaki!

ALCOHOL

Drinking age is 18. Bottle shops are closed on Sunday, but some restaurants serve alcohol on Sundays.

rental agencies issue a temporary licence for $2. If your licence doesn’t cover scooters, then you will need to take a short driving test at the police station.

GOLF

Most international cards are accepted. Mastercard and Visa are preferred to American Express and Diners. ATMs accept most credit and debit cards.

The Rarotonga Golf Club is set amongst tropical greenery and palm trees on the coast, next to Rarotonga Airport. Open Monday to Friday 8am2pm to visitors.

Cook Islands currency is the New Zealand dollar, supplemented by local notes and coinage. The local money is good to souvenir, but has no value outside the Cooks.

The largest range of locallyproduced handicrafts is available at Island Craft, next to Westpac in Avarua. The Punanga Nui Cultural Market also offers crafts at the Saturday market, with a few small shops open during the week.

CURRENCY

HANDICRAFTS

ARA METUA

The inland road around Rarotonga, ideal for walking, bicycling and stress-free motoring.

AUTOMATIC TELLER MACHINES (ATMS) ANZ and Westpac offer ATMs around Rarotonga and Aitutaki providing cash advances on most credit and debit cards.

AVARUA

Located on northern side of Rarotonga, it is the commercial, political and administration centre of the Cooks. Here you will find banks, the post office, police headquarters, government departments, the bigger shops and stores.

BLACK PEARLS

Cook Islands black pearls are an ideal souvenir. The country’s second biggest income earner after tourism.

CHURCHES

Around 70% of Cook Islanders belong to the Cook Islands Christian Church (Presbyterian), and many other churches are also represented. Visitors are generally welcome to attend Sunday services, most starting at 10am.

MEDICAL SERVICES

SPEED LIMIT

Rarotonga Hospital is open 24 hours a day. Call 22 664, or to call an ambulance, dial 998.

The maximum speed is 50km per hour. In town areas it is 30km/hr. When driving a scooter you must wear a helmet if driving faster than 40km/hr.

PHARMACIES

Most pharmacies open from 8.00am to 4.30pm, Monday to Friday, and from 8.00am to midday on Saturday. The CITC Pharmacy is in the CITC Shopping Centre (Avarua). The Cook Islands Pharmacy has two outlets, one in Avarua next to the cinema, and one in Muri. There is also a chemist next to Oasis in Nikao.

PUBLIC TOILETS

There are few public toilets in Rarotonga: Cooks Corner, Avarua; across the main road from Police HQ , Avarua; and at the Punanga Nui Cultural Market. Others are few and far between. You may need to buy a coffee or a beer!

SCUBA DIVING AND SNORKELING

Diving and snorkeling in the Cook Islands is accessible and rewarding, and it is not expensive.

TELEPHONES AND INTERNET

See Telecom Cook Islands or your accommodation for advice and access.

TIPPING

Tipping is not customary in the Cook Islands. But, a tip can be appreciated if you have had good service.

WATER

Most locals avoid drinking straight from the tap, preferring to use the filtered water that is available on tap in every village for free. You are welcome to fill your water bottles and containers at these stations. Just ask your accommodation or a local. Others boil the water then chill it. Most visitors simply buy bottled water!

SHOPPING

EATING OUT There is no shortage of eating places, cafés and island shows, most within easy reach of where you are staying, or what you are doing.

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

Police 999; Ambulance 998; Fire 996

GECKOS & SKINKS

Lizards in the Cook Islands are either geckos or skinks. Both are quite harmless and useful in the control of annoying insects.

GETTING AROUND

The Cook Island Bus Service in Rarotonga travels regularly both clockwise and anticlockwise during of the week. There are lots of bus stops, but you can also flag buses down where it is save to do so. Bicycles, scooters and cars are readily available around Rarotonga and Aitutaki. If you have a current driver’s licence from your home country you can get a Cook Islands licence for one year for $20 from the police station in Avarua. Most

MARKETS The Punanga Nui Cultural Market near the harbour in Avarua is at its best on Saturday between 8am-2pm, but there are some permanent stores there during the week. The Muri Night Market is open from 5pm on Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday. It offers mainly food stalls with a few shopping stands.

Generally open 9am-4pm during the week and Saturday mornings. Some of the island’s small stores open on Sundays, but most shops in Avarua are closed. Best buys in the Cooks include black pearls and black pearl jewelry, island craft, fashion wear, ukuleles and ‘everlasting’ ei’s, and local coconut oil-based products.

THE SEAL OF APPROVAL

FOR THE BEST COOK ISLANDS EXPERIENCES s a traveller, you are looking for the best and most reliable experiences in a destination. The Cook Islands Tourism Industry Council collaborates with the Cook Islands Tourism Corporation to operate its ‘Quality Assured’ accreditation scheme that was designed to give visitors confidence when choosing where to stay, where to eat and how best to experience what the Cook Islands has on offer. President of the Cook Islands Tourism Industry Council, Stephen Lyon, said: “The Cook Islands Tourism accreditation program is voluntary, however membership is strongly encouraged as tourism businesses are required to be accredited in order to be endorsed and promoted by the Cook Islands Tourism Corporation through their offices and website”. “My recommendation to all visitors is to look out for the ‘Cook Islands Quality Assured’ sign when looking for somewhere to stay, to eat or to experience. You know those businesses have been accredited and they will appreciate your business.”

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COOK ISLANDS Top Jewellery & Gift Store BEST PRICES • QUALITY • SELECTION • SERVICE

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For the best deal in the Cook Islands Come to Goldmine, Main Road, Avarua Phone 24 823 | Fax 24824 | email goldmine@oyster.net.ck

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FASHION

STYLISH KAFTANS

Dress by Kay George $135

SIMPLICITY FOR THE TROPICS FROM id.CK Russian-born Tatiana Burn is an exciting local business entrepreneur who lives life to the fullest in her adopted home of Rarotonga. Her busy lifestyle in the Cook Islands has made her knowledgeable in the art of how to dress for all occasions.

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ne of Tatiana’s businesses is id.CK in downtown Avarua. “id.CK means ‘identity Cook Islands’. We specialise in the brand of fashion identifiable with the Cook Islands,” Tatiana said. Tatiana recommend women wait until they arrive in the Cooks to view the id.CK selection of kaftans: “a fashion ‘must-have’ for any vacation in the tropics”. Kaftans have been a wardrobe essential for jetsetters since the 1960’s; just flip through popular magazines to see the kaftan featuring over bikinis on the beach, strolling in the markets, or with a stylish belt stepping out to dinner. According to Tatiana, kaftans offer effortless all-year style, perfect for all occasions from “beach to bar.” “We love colour here, so fashion is vibrant. The id.CK fashion style is distinctive. You will be surprised what you can buy fashion-wise in Rarotonga”. “Our most versatile garment is a kaftan because it is a flattering for all figures. We have long and short kaftans, kaftan-style tops and kaftans you can wear in a very casual manner. You can wear kaftans to the beach or in the evening

with high heels and jewellery. “Our kaftans are from Fijibased Australian designer, Tracey Farrington, who I met in Fiji. She fell in love with a Fijian man, and moved there. I walked into her shop and was astounded with her fashion sense. Since then I have bought every collection Tracey has created.”

“We love colour here, so fashion is vibrant” “In the Cooks you need to be sure you wear breathable fabric. Long skirts and pants are too hot, but you can wear long clothes in the evening. I have a range from Asia by a wonderful young male designer, MAYABAY, whom I met in Bangkok. He is a very exciting person and designs for the European market. He combines beautiful colourful, fabric, and light 100% cotton.” “We feature his short summer dresses. Id.CK also supports local designers. One of them is a famous Cook Islands designer, Kay George. “We collaborate with Kay and sell a number of her

garments, which are handpainted dresses and kaftans. In another of our outlets, Perfumes of Rarotonga, we have the most beautiful silk scarves by Kay George, each one individually hand-painted and also her silk pareos. “MAYABAY short summer dresses start from $39.90, or you can buy a designer garment for $350”. “We are located in a famous building, one of the Cook Islands oldest, its very first hotel called Banana Court.” Tatiana and her husband, Colin, an Englishman, have a number of retail outlets in Rarotonga. In addition to two fashion shops id.CK and a boutique called Blossom (next door), they have Cook’s Fudge Factory, CIPS – Image and Copy Centre, Jaycar Electronics, Perfumes of Rarotonga and Good Life, a new health and wellbeing shop. “Perfumes of Rarotonga help visitors recall the scents of the Cooks. We try to capture those memories with our unique perfumes, oils, soaps and liqueurs.” Make the most of the shopping opportunities in Rarotonga; you will be pleasantly surprised at the range and variety.

Kaftans by Bondi Beach Bag Co. From $109

Kaftan by Bondi Beach Bag Co. $169

Adrift resort wear from $79.90

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s of a e m rfu ng

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a factOry visit nOt tO be missed!

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ISLAND NEWS

ENJOY OUR LOCAL BEER!

BOOK REVIEW

AND, TAKE A TOUR OF THE COOK ISLANDS ONLY BREWERY Many people who travel the world introduce themselves to the local beer at the first opportunity: they visit the brewery, taste the beer, buy the beer, and buy the t-shirt! For visitors to Rarotonga, the Matutu Brewery should be no exception.

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ocated 100m from Fruits of Rarotonga, not far from Muri, the tiny Matutu Brewery is a 100% locallyowned Cook Islands micro-brewery producing Mai Lager, Kiva Pale Ale and Matutu Draught. Many restaurants around the Cook Islands sell the glass-bottle range, but don’t be surprised when you visit the brewery and your onsite

how the process works, including the bottling plant, which is basically a hose into a bottle as every beer is handbottled,” Nadine said.

“In restaurants, of course you buy the standard 330ml glass stubby”. The Matutu Brewery also sells a range of attractive merchandise including a t-shirt for each beer, hats, and the ever-popular ‘No Crap Added’ t-shirt. Nadine tells the story behind this famous t-shirt. “It started with an American beer lover commenting to Eric

“Matutu Brewery is not staff-run, it is brewer-run.” purchase is presented in recycled plastic bottles. The unique Matutu taste doesn’t vary though! The Matutu Brewery is, in fact, the original Tuatara Brewery operation from Wellington, New Zealand, which was relocated to Rarotonga in 2005 by Matutu founders James Puati and Eric Newnham. Matutu Brewery’s Nadine Newnham said that every brewery tour is taken by one of the brewers, either Eric and James, whose names appear on the back of the bottles. “Matutu Brewery is not staffrun, it is brewer-run. So, when you take a tour you are shown around by one of the brewers. “It starts with a free tasting of the beers, whatever happens to be seasonal. The brewer then conducts a visual tour showing

“The tour takes twenty to thirty minutes and costs only ten dollars if you turn up at the door. If you need an accommodation pick up then you just ring the boys and they come a pick you up for an extra five dollars.” “On site visitors can buy Matutu beers in recycled soft drink bottles, either 1.5 litre or 3 litre. It could be a plastic Coca Cola bottle or a large water bottle. We also sell blends of beers in the plastics, which many people find interesting.

that he had been drinking Matutu beers constantly for a week with no hangover. Eric responded by saying: ‘that is because there is no crap in our beer, mate!’ The American emphatically replied – that’s a t-shirt! That t-shirt is now our biggest seller.” For those interested in a Matutu Brewery tour, just turn up when you see the signboard on the main road that displays tour times. Some days when they are brewing, there are no tours. If you want a pick up call 26 288 from 9.00am, or, if you call earlier, you can leave a message. Tours Daily at 12pm and 1pm, including free beer tasting – Tour-only $10. Transport & Tour $15. For more information on the Matutu Brewery: www.matutubeer.com

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PA AND THE DOLPHINS: A TRUE STORY OF PA, RAROTONGAN HERO AND HIS RETURN JOURNEY TO TAHITI One of Cook Islands ‘living treasures’ Pa is a spiritual and dignified man, surrounded by a serene aura that instantly calms those in his presence.

T

oday, he is known for his eco tourism cross-Rarotonga treks and nature tours, but in his younger years he was an ocean swimmer, who once swam from Moorea to Tahiti in French Polynesia to connect to his ancestors.

“Beautifully expressed and illustrated”.

He was 39 years old when he accomplished the swim in 1985, a distance of 22 km. Pa and the Dolphins: A true story of Pa, Rarotongan hero and his return journey to

Tahiti is an illustrated children’s book that tells of his great personal adventure and Polynesian spirituality. The story of Pa’s extraordinary swim and his intimate encounter with a pod of dolphins is beautifully expressed and illustrated by his wife, Jillian Sobieska. A delightful souvenir from the Cook Islands, the book can be purchased from the Bounty Bookshop next to the Avarua Post Office, online, or by contacting the author on (+682) 21079 or jillian@ pasbungalows.co.ck

Phone Cards Available Located next to Post Office

Phone 26 660


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CoOK ISLANDS SuN

BLACK PEARLS

“ALL ART IS AUTOBIOGRAPHICAL. THE PEARL IS THE OYSTER’S AUTOBIOGRAPHY.” Frederico Fellini, Italian film director

Black pearls are named from their shell, ‘The black-lipped mother of pearl shell’

It is said the world is your oyster; it’s up to you to find the pearls! Well, you are in the Cook Islands and there are a wide variety of distinctive black pearls for you to discover and choose from. Black pearls are the perfect souvenirs of a trip to the Cooks.

FIVE THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT BUYING BLACK PEARLS IN THE COOK ISLANDS Why are black pearls so called? Because they grow in the black lipped oyster (pinctada margaritifera). When the oyster shell is ground and polished you can see the spectrum of colours. So the pearls are not black as such but range in colour from aubergine, to champagne to peacock green. What is special about Cook Islands black pearls and where do they come from? Most Cook Islands black pearls are produced in the pristine lagoon of the northern atoll of Manihiki. The depth of the lagoon, the water temperature, the current, provide ideal conditions for growing black pearls. As mentioned above

they are unique because of their amazing variety of colours. How do black pearls compare with other types of pearls & how valuable are they? They are second only to the Australian golden pearls ‘South Seas’ pearls. What is a ‘cultured’ black pearl? We help the process along by implanting a nucleus (like a round bead ) into the gonad or water sack of the oyster. The oysters natural instinct is to expel it, but if it doesn’t the oyster is trying to accept this foreign object so it creates a solution called nacre to coat or layer over the nucleus, to try to accommodate this irritant.

What are the basic guidelines for buyers of black pearls, in regard to colour, size, shape, surface quality, lustre etc? We value each pearl on its size, shape and quality. The quality of a pearl is determined by its lustre and how clean the surface of the pearl is. So we look for any imperfections on the pearl and the sheen or lustre of the pearl and grade it accordingly. To judge the lustre of a round or symmetrical pearl, the sharper the definition of your reflection the better the lustre. Strong colour enhances the value of the pearl. This contribution is courtesy of Temu and Lesley Okotai from Farm Direct Pearls, Harbour House, opposite Avatiu Harbor.

Lesley & Temu Okotai Harbour House, Avatiu, ph 20 635 email: temu@mblackpearl.co.ck

ndigenous only to the Iandatolls of the Cook Islands the lagoons of French Polynesia, black pearls are named for the famous shell that they come from, Pinctada margaritifera or ‘The Black Lipped Mother of Pearl Shell’. BUY GENUINE AND LOCAL The Cook Islands pearl industry is naturally proud

Seeded oysters are carefully maintained for up to two years before the pearls are harvested

of the quality and origin of its black pearls from the northern atoll of Manihiki, but it is concerned that not all black pearls sold in the Cook Islands are home grown. Pearl retailers and vendors in the Cook Islands are now required to clearly label all imported pearls regarding their origin and treatment to protect you from unfair sales practices. The Cook Islands Pearl

Authority recommends checking with retailers that what you are buying is a genuine Cook Islands black pearl. Black pearl farming is the economic lifeline of the small community on Manihiki, so pearl farming is vital to their future sustainability. Several pearl shops on Rarotonga have family connections to the farms in Manihiki and are able to sell their best quality pearls directly. They can also tell you more about how and where the pearls are grown and about the remote island community where they are produced. Whilst there are suitable black pearls to be bought at a wide variety of price levels, Avaiki is the trademark of the highest quality pearls set by the Cook Islands Pearl Authority. Accredited retailers of Avaiki Cook Islands Pearls include Moana Gems – Pearl & Art Gallery, The Pearl Lounge, Paka’s Pearls and Goldmine. Images courtesy of Cook Islands Pearl Authority.


CoOK ISLANDS SuN

BLACK PEARLS

MANIHIKI

“Life for most residents revolves around the pearl industry.”

THE ISLAND OF PEARLS

One of the best examples of a pristine atoll in the South Pacific, the distant island of Manihiki has been the centre of black pearl farming in the Cook Islands since the 1970s.

Villagers travel by outboard boats between the two villages of Tukao and Tapueka, and to their pearl farms

1200km north of Rarotonga, Manihiki is one of the most remote inhabited regions on earth. Fewer than 500 islanders live on the atoll. Pearl farmers travel by outboard-powered boats between the main villages in the lagoon, Tauhunu and Tukao, and to their pearl farms set up on coral outcrops. There are pearl farms dotted around the lagoon. The deep, wide lagoon was

GRADING GUIDE TO COOK ISLANDS BLACK PEARLS This information is a guide for visitors who want to buy a Cook Islands pearl. The criteria and standards are endorsed by the Cook Islands Pearl Authority to promote uniformity and consistency in the classification and grading of Cook Islands cultured pearls. These represent minimum standards and thresholds for each grade. A higher grading standard may be applied by a retailer or pearl grader.

Visual Grade Perfect

Surface Quality Surface is free from any blemish, ordefect visible to the naked eye.

Lustre Excellent

A

Over 90% of the surface has no blemishes or defects; 10% or less of the surface has one or two slight blemishes (confined within one segment on the surface of the pearl).

High to excellent

B

70% or more of surface is free of blemishes or defects; 30% or less of the surface has slight blemishes (within area of segment).

At least Average or better

C

50% or more of surface is free of blemishes or defects; 50% or less of the surface has slight

At least Average or better

D

30% or more of surface is free of blemishes or defects; 70% or less of the surface has blemishes, with up to 30% deeper blemishes (within area of segments).

Dull or better

No side is free of blemishes, or defects; over 30% of surface has deep blemishes

Dull or better

Low grade pearl What is Lustre?

Surface quality and lustre are very critical factors in determining a pearl’s grade. However lustre is what separates the inferior pearl from the superior and the ordinary from the extraordinary. For example if the surface quality is an “A” category but with a “dull” lustre, the pearl would be graded down to a D. What are the categories for lustre?

Excellent

Exceptional shine; mirror-like and sharp reflection

High

Less shine than ‘excellent’ but reflection is well defined

Average

Shine and reflection are average

Dull

Very little shine or reflection; appears chalky, milky or dull.

9

Enquiries to COOK ISLANDS PEARL AUTHORITY, PO Box 153, Rarotonga | T 29 055 | F 29 045 | E pearlinfo@pearlauthority.co.ck

for many years a popular source of mother-ofpearl shell keenly sought after internationally for decoration and furniture inlay work. That demand gradually developed into a global passion for the lustrous black pearls themselves, and the cultured pearls farming industry in Manihiki was born. Today, tens of thousands of pearl shells are harvested annually.

Visitors to the Cook Islands can fly to Manihiki from Rarotonga. It takes about four hours in a turboprop aircraft. Enjoy the picturesque lagoon with its many motu (islets) strung along the reef, teeming with marine life. There is also good swimming, snorkeling and diving to be enjoyed. The choice of accommodation on the island includes staying with a local family, or a private beach bungalow. Bring a flashlight, mosquito

repellent, good walking shoes, and plenty of books to read. Baggage allowance is limited to 10 kilo per person (22 pounds). Luggage storage is available at the Rarotonga Airport.

For more information contact the ‘outer island specialists’, Jetsave Travel, on (+682) 27707, jetsave@cooks.co.ck, or visit them next to Goldmine, downtown Avarua.


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CoOK ISLANDS SuN

WEDDINGS & SPAS

THE PERFECT SETTING

Natur ally active skincare products made on the island of R arotonga

FOR AN ISLAND WEDDING Soothing Cleansing Milk Hydrating Radiance Mask Skin Perfecting Facial Scrub Revitalising Eye Cream Revitalising Moisture Cream Revitalising Moisture Body Lotion After Sun Soothing Gel Tamanu Oil Virgin Coconut Oil

Visit 150m past Fruits of Rarotonga on the road too Muri or at Te Punanga Nui market on Saturday

Call 20 134 or 75 951 Email info@ritocookislands.com

Spa Ariki According to traveller.com.au, Rarotonga’s Muri Lagoon is one of the best-kept secrets in the South Pacific. Those who visit Muri, leave with no doubt that this heavenly place is special. Image: Craig Owen

S

ails Restaurant and Bar with its prime location on the beach at Muri is a prominent landmark overlooking the lagoon, this year celebrating its 25th anniversary. Open seven days for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Sails is also popular as an exclusive wedding venue. Manager Erin Quirke’s family has run Sails for twenty-three years. This is Erin’s seventh year managing the venue, which is part of the Rarotonga Sailing Club. “As a family, we grew up at the sailing club; it’s like a second home for us. It is a busy club with lots of local sailors, young and old, sailing in the lagoon and beyond, all week.” Erin enjoys the weddings planning side of Sails. “We have had some great weddings here. One couple got married around the island and arrived at Sails for the reception with everybody dressed as pirates. They had a ‘dancing with the stars’ dance format – pasodoble and tango! It was fun. They enjoyed a lot of rum punch too! “Most weddings here are for couples who don’t want to use

“Most weddings are on the beach, but occasionally some marry over on the off-shore island.” hotels for their receptions. Here there is a little more privacy. “We are a one-stop shop! We take care of everything including the wedding license, ceremony on beachfront in front of Sails with a decorated archway, the marriage celebrant, flowers and the reception. “Most weddings are on the beach, but occasionally some

Sails

marry over on the off-shore island.” Erin said that most of Sails wedding clients are visitors, mainly from New Zealand, but also returning Cook Islanders. “Clients are offered flexibility with the menu choices; it depends on the time of day. Some marry around 10am and have the reception until 2pm. That is really nice because they take advantage of the daylight and having the lagoon view. The cocktail-style of wedding is also popular, lasting only a couple of hours in the late afternoon/early evening, and we serve finger food. The more traditional weddings have either a buffet-style meal or a two or three course meal. The restaurant seats up to 110, on average our weddings are between 60-80 guests, but the restaurant is still blocked off. “We don’t need a lot of notice because we are well set up for weddings, but some enquiries start a year in advance, and we communicate by email.” For wedding enquiries email dine@sailsrestaurant.co.ck, visit the website www. sailsrestaurant.co.ck, or call +682 27 349, ask for Erin.

RESTAURANT & BAR

Romantic Beachfront Weddings on Muri Beach

We offer full wedding planning services for your special day at this idyllic location

Ceremony • Reception • Cake • Canapes • Cocktails • Party Find out more: www.sailsrestaurant.co.ck email:dine@sailsrestaurant.co.ck

Ph 27 349

at crown beach resort & spa

MASSAGE | FACIAL | MANICURE | PEDICURE EXFOLIATION | WAXING | HAIRSTYLING | & MORE

Relax. Refresh. Renew. Open Monday to Friday 9am – 5pm & Saturday 12pm – 5pm Arorangi Rarotonga | Telephone 23953 ext 719 | Email spa@crownbeach.com


CoOK ISLANDS SuN

WEDDINGS & SPAS

TAKE HOME RITO FROM THE COOK ISLANDS

DISCOVER THE AMAZING BENEFITS OF COCONUT OIL-BASED PRODUCTS Created with cold-pressed virgin coconut oil made in the village of Tikioki on Rarotonga, Rito Cook Islands naturally active skincare products and culinary oils capture the purity and simplicity of the islands.

R

ito Cook Islands is an innovative business owned by Robert and Susan Wyllie. Robert has a background in property development, and Susan owned a hair and beauty salon, both in New Zealand. Susan’s father is a NZ-based Cook Islander. The Wyllie’s moved to the Cook Islands a few years ago to lead a different lifestyle away from the bustle of Auckland. Partly because of the abundant supply of coconuts in Rarotonga, they decided to develop a range of natural coconut oil-based skincare products and culinary coconut oils. The Rito Cook Islands product range now includes eye cream, after-sun soothing gel, facial moisturiser, facial mask, facial scrub, body butter and a range of soaps, all made with a virgin coconut oil base. The health and well-being benefits of coconut oil and coconut oil-based products

You will also find Susan at the Te Punanga Nui Market on Saturday

have been well known by Cook Islanders for centuries, and today globally by many people, as well. Susan and Robert share the workload. Susan looks after skin care and beauty product range, and Robert the culinary oils, massage oils and soaps. Rito Cook Islands products can be obtained from the factory site on the main road in Tikioki, located 150 metres past the Fruits of Rarotonga on the main road to Muri,

not far from the Matutu Brewery. You can also meet Robert and Susan at the Rito Cook Islands Hut at the Punanga Nui Market on Saturday mornings.

The range of skin care products and culinary oils are also offered at Muri Beach Club Hotel & Spa, and at the CITC Pharmacy in Avarua. For more information, contact Robert and Susan on 20134 or email info@ritocookislands.com

THE STORY BEHIND BIOACTIVE COOK ISLANDS OILS Inspired by scientific research, Cook Islands Doctor Graham Matheson engaged in a ten-year program into regenerative traditional medicines. The results demonstrated the presence of regenerative agents, one with a remarkable effect on the biology of the top layer of the skin.

TeTika, meaning ‘truth and egenerative plants are R grown naturally and refined integrity’ in Cook Islands in the Cook Islands using the techniques specifically required to bring out the activity from the plants. These patented ‘Bioactive Cook Islands Oils’ have been crafted into the premium Te Tika skincare range to enhance and rejuvenate the skin in a manner unlike any other.

Maori, is the culmination of a thousand years of tradition, and a decade of advanced research. The Te Tika range is available at the CITC Pharmacy in Avarua. For more information or to shop online visit www.tetika.com.au

AVA I L A B L E AT

LA

ND

S B I OAC T

IV

E

LS

K

OI

A key ingredient in the TeTika® Skincare range, Bioactive Cook Islands Oils are the result of intense research into the traditional Cook Islands regenerative practices. These remarkable oils have a rejuvenating effect on the epidermis of the skin.

IS

Inspired by the unspoiled beauty of the Cook Islands COO

PHARMACY

A

www.citc.co.ck • www.tetika.com.au

E

IN

IS

L

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See the full range of the TeTika® Skincare products at CITC. THE COOK


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CoOK ISLANDS SuN

DINING & ENTERTAINMENT

ISLAND NIGHT SHOWS ON RAROTONGA No trip to the Cook Islands is complete without one (or more outings) to a traditional ‘Island Night’ show. They are colourful, energetic and entertaining and, combined with a buffet-style feast, they are good value for money. Enquire about the different styles of Island Nights on offer; some are smaller, intimate shows, others larger, spectacular shows with bigger audiences. Always book to avoid disappointment. MONDAY

BUFFET / SHOW

TELEPHONE

Highland Paradise (starts with Village Tour)

5.00pm/8.00pm

21 924

The Rarotongan Resort & Spa/Sanctuary

Evening

25 800

Te Vara Nui Village (Option: Village Tour 5pm)

7.30pm/8.30pm

24 006

Edgewater Resort & Spa

7.00pm/8.30pm

25 435

The Islander Hotel

7.00pm/8.30pm

21 003

Highland Paradise (starts with Village Tour)

5.00pm/8.00pm

21 924

Muri Beach Club Hotel

7.00pm/8.00pm

23 000

The Rarotongan Resort & Spa/Sanctuary

Evening

25 800

Te Vara Nui Village (Option: Village Tour 5pm)

7.30pm/8.30pm

24 006

Crown Beach Resort

7.00pm/8.30pm

23 953

5.00pm/8.00pm

21 924

Evening

25 800

TUESDAY

WEDNESDAY

THURSDAY

FRIDAY Highland Paradise (starts with Village Tour) SATURDAY Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa/Sanctuary

Note: times are correct at time of publication, but some days, venues may/will change seasonally.

THE MURI NIGHT MARKET

4

According to Bernadette Purua who runs the Muri Night Market: “This is a happy place for both locals and tourists”. Bernadette and her husband Tumaiata, who owns the land where the market is located, live in the area.

“T

he market has being going for about a year and a half. We started with a sausage sizzle, selling coconuts, coconut juice, passion fruit, paw-paw, custard apple and lemons. Others asked if they could join us and set up a stall, and the Muri Night Market began!” said Bernadette.

Today, the food stallorientated market operates on Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday from 5pm – 9pm. There are a few stands selling crafts, including hand-made ukuleles and ei’s. Riki Adamu and his band often provide live entertainment; he makes the ukuleles. Bernadette said the food is fresh and local, offering a great variety from kebabs, BBQ fish and chicken, fruit smoothies, coconuts, fruits and desserts. “All the vendors at the Muri Night Market have food licences; most of them also sell at the Punanga Nui Markets on Saturday. “It is quite big now, and we have room to expand if necessary. For many of the vendors this is their lively-hood”.


CoOK ISLANDS SuN

DINING & ENTERTAINMENT

TE VARA NUI

IT’S BIG & IT’S COLOURFUL!

Te Vara Nui Village in Muri opened its doors in June 2010. Since then thousands of visitors and Cook Islanders have enjoyed the incomparable experience of Rarotonga’s only over-water cultural night show and buffet. Offering an authentic journey into Cook Islands culture, Te Vara Nui Village is set amongst picturesque cascades and tropical volcanic rock gardens, surrounding small islands over a lake.

T

e Vara Nui owners, Moana Hunter and Fodil Nair, initially envisioned their Muri location to be the site of a hotel, but decided to create the prime location into a showcase for Cook Islands culture inspired by Moana’s mother, a former well-known cultural performer, Vara Hunter. Today, Te Vara Nui Village is considered one of the ‘must do’ entertainment experiences for visitors to Rarotonga. It operates three days a week

during peak season (Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday) and twice weekly during off-season.

O

guests with shell ‘eis’ on arrival for the Te Vara Nui shows, and she will be among the last to leave at the end of the night.

One of the ‘must do’ entertainment experiences Visitors will meet Rarotongan Maori people who share their stories, knowledge and heritage during the optional Cultural Village Tour.

Later, during the Over Water Night Show vibrant, pulsating dancers and musicians perform by flaming torchlight on the floating and fixed stages of the waterfall garden, whilst guests tuck into the tasty buffet. For more information or bookings contact Te Vara Nui Village on (+682) 24006, culture@tevaranui.co.ck or visit www.tevaranui.co.ck

VARA HUNTER, THE INSPIRATION BEHIND TE VARA NUI ne of the things that make the experience of the Te Vara Nui Village special is the opportunity of meeting its namesake, the gracious Vara Hunter, who in her younger years performed and showcased Cook Islands culture in the Pacific region. Respected and admired throughout Rarotonga, Vara has dedicated her life to her family and to her culture, preserving and portraying the ethnicity, arts, and crafts of Cook Islands and its people. Now in her 70s, Vara greets

“I enjoy it. I love meeting people,” said Vara.

Early on Saturday morning, Vara goes the Punanga Nui Market buying fresh vegetables for the Te Vara Nui kitchen. She spends the rest of the morning handing out Te Vara Nui brochures and chatting to visitors and friends. In her spare time, Vara helps to look after her 19 grandchildren and four great grandchildren. “I just can’t stop.”

The Matutu Tour – treat your tastebuds

Tours Daily at 12pm and 1pm. Tour only $10. Transport & Tour $15. Free beer tasting on tour. Visit us in Tikioki, Titikaveka. Telephone. 26288. Email. ennn@oyster.net.ck

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CoOK ISLANDS SuN

DINING & ENTERTAINMENT

14

RAROTONGA

Eating out guide 1

8

5

10

Happy Hour Mon-Sat 4–6pm

Open 7 Days from 8pm ‘til late Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner • Snacks Sports TV • Regular Live Music WiFi • Full Bar • Lounge seating Sailing regatta most Saturdays Weddings & Private Functions www.sailsrestaurant.co.ck

Open Friday to Wednesday nights The fresh flavours of Mexico Burritos, quesadillas, enchiladas & more... also pizzas casita@oyster.net.ck

RESERVATIONS 20 002

BOOK NOW 27 349

MURI VILLAGE

6

2

BOOK NOW 20 693

Happy Hour 4–6pm

We create different flavours to excite your taste buds everyday or night of the week! Visit our WILSONS BEACH BAR right on the beach! Open Monday–Saturday Bar from 3pm | Restaurant from 6pm Email: relax@castawayvillas.com www.castawayvillas.com

BOOK NOW 21 546 3

11

SPECIAL

Seafood Platter for 2

80

$

THE TUMUNU RESTAURANT & BAR Tropical Garden Setting A-la-carte menu, fresh seafood, steaks, vegetarian & kids meals Open 7 nights from 6pm

BOOK 20 501 www.tumunurarotonga.com

Vietnamese, Indonesian, Chinese, Malaysian, Thai rickshaw@oyster.net.ck

Open Everyday Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner Located at Muri Beach Club Hotel Reservations

MURI VILLAGE

BOOKINGS 22 232 or 75 449

RESERVATIONS 27 349

12 9

CERTIFICATE OF EXCELLENCE 2014

7

Open Monday to Saturday Bar opens 5.30pm | Dining 6-9pm Located between The Edgewater & Sunset Resort Arorangi

RESERVATIONS 23 596 or 55 725 dine@albertosrestaurant.co.ck 4

Fabulous Food! Divine Cocktails! Sea Views! Stunning Sunsets! ENJOY THE NEWLY-UPGRADED POOL AREA! All-day Dining 7am-9pm Casual Diners Welcome. Island Nights • Private Dining Swim-up Pool Bar @ Sanctuary Rarotonga • Seafood Platters for Two • Parrot Fish+Chips • Banana Fritters • Fisherman’s Big Game Catch • Prawn/Chicken Caeser Salad • Surf+Turf, 300gm T bone • Beach Boy Rump Steak+Eggs • Bacon, Beef+Cheese Burger • Sizzling Fajitas • Club Sandwich • Delicious Curries • Vegetarian • Great Pizzas • Tasty Pastas • Nachos

Open 7 days - casual diners welcome! Beaches Restaurant & Bar www.manuia.co.uk

info@rarotongan.co.ck www.TheRarotongan.com

BOOKINGS 23 596 or 55 725

BOOKINGS 26 487

Open Tuesday to Sunday for lunch & dinner Sunday Brunch GREAT FOOD • GREAT SUNSETS GREAT MUSIC • GREAT BEACH Idyllic venue for weddings and group functions www.waterline-restaurant.com

Open seasonal lunch hours and Sunday Brunch - please phone to check Open Dinner: Monday – Saturday Fine Pacific cuisine www.tamarind.co.ck

BOOKINGS 26 487

Ask for Chris or Akisi

RESERVATIONS 22 161

CERTIFICATE OF EXCELLENCE 2014


CoOK ISLANDS SuN

DINING & ENTERTAINMENT

Quick Guide

CAFÉ , BAR & RESTAUR ANT LOCATIONS

ARA T APU

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

12 14

3 17 6

AVARUA

NIKAO

TUPAPA

MATAVERA 4

ARORANGI

9

Sails Restaurant Crusoes Restaurant Albertos Restaurant Beaches Restaurant & Bar The Yellow Hibiscus Restaurant The Tumunu Restaurant Captain Andy’s Beach Bar & Grill Silver Sands Restaurant & Bar The Waterline Restaurant & Bar La Casita Mexican Cafe The Rickshaw Tamarind House Sanctuary Rarotonga LBV Bakery - Avarua LBV Bakery - Muri The Shipwreck Hut Beach Bar Spaghetti House Pizzeria & Grill

RD

2

15

AKAOA N

13

RD

NGATAnGIIA 16

MURI

RUTAKI 7 13

VAIMAANGA 5

15

11 10 8 1

TITIKAVEKA

ARA T APU

SL C00K I ANDS

RAROTONGA’S BEST DINING & SHOWS! MON Fire Dance Show+Island BBQ $55pp+Karaoke BlueWater Grill @ SANCTUARY+Live w/Andre TUES Spices of Asia BBQ $40pp+Crab Racing Ginger Garden tastes of asia @ SANCTUARY BlueWater Grill casual gourmet + Live w/Destiny WED Island Night w/ORAMA $55pp+Karaoke THURS Reef&Beef Night MENU w/Andre Tapena+Crab Races Ginger Garden tastes of asia @ SANCTUARY BlueWater Grill casual gourmet + Live w/Tara Kauvai FRI Flame Grilled Pork Ribs + Live w/Tara Kauvai $40 BlueWaterGrill w/Tok | FRIDAY NITELIFE TOUR $25 SAT Fire Dance Show+Island BBQ $55pp+Karaoke SUN Carvery Roast $40pp w/Tok on guitar BlueWater Grill+Live w/ Tara Kauvai

FLYING AL

MON WED+FRI FRI

Aroa Beach l Rarotonga l COOK ISLANDS

Akitua I

info@rarotongan.co.ck | info@sanctuaryrarotonga.com

info@aitu AitutakiLa

P (+682) 25 800 l F 25 799

P (+68

TheRarotongan.com | SanctuaryRarotonga.com

AVARUA 14 MURI 15

ONLY re Aitu

N 16 IN E D SI CH A BE ’A RO A T A MMODATION ED BEACHFRONT ACCO

SELF CONTAIN

Q SAT –SeJaafkeooNud BB manga

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CoOK ISLANDS SuN

DINING & ENTERTAINMENT Dining and Entertainment

It is not hard to spot George Ellis IV; he’s the warrior on the right

AKIRATA A VIBRANT, LEADING COOK ISLANDS PERFORMING CULTURAL ARTS TROUPE Akirata is Cook Islands Maori for ‘early light’. Backstage, the youthful male and female performers adjust their colourful costumes made from local coconut fibers, fabrics, shells and flowers. On stage, the frenetic sounds of accompanying drummers and singers begin to fill the ears of the eager audience. The island show dancers and warriors quickly flow on to the platform with their distinctive Cook Islands brand of Polynesian dance that tell the story of the islands from the early days tribal warfare, to its discovery by James Cook and the missionaries, to the present day.

C

ook Islands dance was a central part of island culture for centuries before the European missionaries changed everything in the early 1800s. Finding such openly erotic dances distasteful, they managed to dramatically change the traditional art form for many years. Today, the dance performances are an entertaining interpretation of the islands ethnicity, including traditional and modern history. The distinctive music seems to be compelled by the reverberations of the South Pacific Ocean, tropical winds and storms, and the oftenrelentless beat of rain. One Cook Islands professional dance groups is the Akirata Cultural Dance Troupe. They have travelled internationally promoting Cook Islands culture. In 2010, they were chosen to represent Cook Islands performing arts at the 2010 World Expo in Shanghai, PRC. More recently, they performed in the United States and Mexico. Cook Islander businessman Rohan Ellis and his wife Adriane founded the dance troupe six years ago. “The idea started when my wife and I lived in China. Adriane formed a dance troupe made up with Pacific islanders, Cook islanders, as well as Chinese citizens. When we returned to the Cook Islands we formed our own dance troupe using local people here,” Rohan said. “Our dance troupe is made up of members of our musically-gifted families, be it drummers, dancers and singers; some are costume makers. We all come together for the love of Cook Islands culture”. Rohan said the choreography and music score was inspired by his wife’s late uncle Turepu Turepu, who was a master of Cook Islands culture in his day. A prolific Cook Islands composer, Turepu died aged 56 in 1990 having written more than 1000 songs; many were hits in Tahiti, as well as the Cook Islands.

“He was creative in his choreography, drumbeats and performances. In fact, many of the dance troupes in the Cook Islands today are also inspired by his drumbeats and choreography as the basis for their performances”. The dance performances are an interpretation of the islands ethnicity

“We all come together for the love of Cook Islands culture.” Manihiki is regarded as the cradle of Cook Islands culture

“We don’t feature children in our troupe, but we have featured many former beauty queens of the Cook Islands and national dance champions. They are professional dancers and they do get paid; not quite enough though, they all have other jobs. A few of the younger ones are at high school.” Rohan Ellis is also the voice presenter for Akirata’s performances. “Our script is based on Cook Islands history and tales from yesteryear. We try to bring out good stories from the outer islands, including unique historical events that

took place, to inspire visitors and Cook Islands Maori who watch the show. I have used excerpts from history books, but have modernized the words to make it sound more theatrical”. “My father George Ellis comes from Manihiki, an island long regarded as the ‘cradle’ of Cook Islands culture, dancing and drumming. There is a unique style there because of their connection with French Polynesia way back. There was a movement of people between Manihiki and Tahiti and cultural ideas and creativity were exchanged in the 1800s, in pre colonial times”. When watching the Akirata Dance Troupe perform it is not hard to spot Rohan’s nephew, 16 year-old George Ellis IV. “The people of the Cook Islands are of mixed ancestory. George is a fusion of Scottish, Cook Islands Maori, New Zealand Maori and German, but he does look the odd one out because his skin is porcelain white and he has orange hair. He is still at school, fluent in French, learning Spanish, George is an avid sportsman who enjoys the physicality of dancing with Akirata.” Akirata has three weekly ‘Island Night’ contracts. On Tuesdays at The Islander Hotel with dinner at 7pm and show at 8.30pm. On Wednesdays, they perform at the Muri Beach Club Hotel with dinner at 7pm and the show at 8pm. On Thursdays, Akirata perform at Crown Beach Resort, dinner at 7pm and show at 8.30pm. On a final note, Rohan said Akirata has made their costumes a main point of differentiation with other dance troupes. “Our costumes are brilliant! We invest a lot of money in them, bringing in fibers from the outer islands; they are all natural. We have two costume makers working full-time. It is a minienterprise of the Cook Islands.” For more information about the Akirata Dance Troupe, visit their website or Facebook site, email natura@oyster.net.ck or call 55686.

“Our costumes are brilliant”

YO U A R E W E L C O M E AT

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INVEST, AND ENJOY

COOK ISLANDS LIFESTYLE The Cook Islands is one of the few places in the world that offers the opportunity to earn a living whilst also providing a laid back lifestyle. It’s a nice, safe place to live and work.

I

f you are thinking about a ‘sea change’, then whilst in the Cooks make enquiries about what businesses are for sale, not just in tourism, but in a wide variety of enterprises. Good to see a business in real time, rather than on a website! Cook Islands Real Estate partners Carey Winterflood and Peter Heays are not your usual realtors. They don’t have an office and they don’t put up signs all over. They get most of their enquiries from their website and Facebook page, or simply by people calling when they are on the island. They invite you for a cup of coffee at a café to suit you to start the conversation; nice and neutral, less pressure for everyone! They explain the intricacies of living and investing in the Cooks. At that point you may realise that the Cook Islands is not for you, but if it is, they list the opportunities and offer to take you to view properties and businesses that interest you. Carey and Peter have decades of realty experience in the Cook Islands. Carey is from Australia and Peter from New Zealand. Peter Heays has been in the Cooks for nearly thirty years, starting in real estate in 1994.

Tropical Fruit Plantation with ‘Executive-style’ residence Carey Winterflood arrived in the late 1990s soon to join forces with Peter. Both have set up businesses on Rarotonga, so they also have hands-on experience.

“A lot of people visit the islands and fall in love with the place.” “Our customers are an equal share between Australians and New Zealanders. That is where 90% of our business comes from,” said Carey. “A lot of people visit the islands and fall in love with the place. Many call us whilst they are here to ask about buying a business.

“Businesses range from multi-million dollar resorts, hotels and motels, all the way down the price range to a $100,000 fish and chip take-away. We have fishing boats for sale, smash repairs, diving outfits, four-wheel drive tours, the list goes on.” Peter added that there is a lot of red tape to go through in the Cooks, mainly to protect the locals, which in his opinion is a good thing. “We hold buyers by the hand the whole way through the process,” said Peter. According to Peter and Carey, they handle around 90% of the properties and businesses for sale in the Cooks. “We are the only full-time real estate agent on the island,” said Carey. Call Carey on (+682) 55 678 or Peter on (+682) 55 289.

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OUR CELEBRATED ISLAND NIGHT ON THURSDAY FEATURES A POLYNESIAN BUFFET, FOLLOWED BY DELICIOUS DESSERTS, TOPPED OFF WITH A LIVELY CULTURAL PERFORMANCE PRESENTED BY THE AKIRATA CULTURAL DANCE TROUPE. RESERVATIONS ARE RECOMMENDED. ONLY $55 ADULTS / $30 CHILDREN 3-12 YEARS.

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FOR RESERVATIONS AND ENQUIRIES CALL 23 953

or email info@crownbeach.com Main Road, Arorangi www.crownbeachresort.com Complimentary bottle of beer, glass of wine or spirit with each main meal at both the Windjammer Restaurant and the Oceans Restaurant & Bar.

17

B FO US R IN SA E S LE S

Kia Orana

LIFE & CULTURE


18

CoOK ISLANDS SuN

LIFE & CULTURE

A CULTURAL FEAST OF COOK ISLANDS ENTERTAINMENT AND SPIRITUAL EXPERIENCES The traditional inhabitants of today’s Cook Islands are related to their Polynesians cousins from the Marquesas Islands (French Polynesia) who immigrated fourteen hundred years ago. It wasn’t until the islands’ namesake, Captain James Cook, visited in the late 1700s that the islands’ people were exposed to intense cultural changes led by the missionaries, the British education system and bureaucracy. Up until that time the islands were managed by ariki or high chiefs. Each ariki was a leader of an ivi or ngati (tribe), with dedicated tribal lands.

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t was this history that inspired the late Raymond Pirangi Jr to create Rarotonga’s Highland Paradise Cultural Centre in the Maungaroa Valley, high above the west coast district of Arorangi overlooking the South Pacific Ocean. The land where Highland Paradise is located was the homeland to the paramount chief, Tinomana Ariki and the Tinomana tribe. The 600 year-old village was abandoned in the early 1800s with the introduction of Christianity. As a descendant of the tribe it was Raymond Pirangi Jr’s vision that its culture and history be Highland Paradise is not like other shows in Rarotonga

preserved and celebrated on this site. Following his death, Raymond’s daughter Teuira ‘Tutu’ Pirangi, and granddaughter Anne, continued to operate and develop the multi awardwinning tourism attraction.

“An authentic Cook Islands cultural show.” In 1980, Raymond Pirangi Jr leased 205 acres of his ancestor’s land and six hectares

was cleared to create Highland Paradise. His daughter Tutu calls herself ‘a proud caretaker for the next generation’. “My dad started Highland Paradise with just a couple of huts. Since then, we have extended the cultural experiences and designed and built an entertainment structure, which is open in the traditional style,” Tutu said. “Highland Paradise is selffunded or privately funded. Recently, we gratefully received funding from the Japanese Government to build a cultural learning centre here. Much of the information in the centre will be about our ancestors. Over 90% of staff are descendants of King Tinomana

“Over 90% of the staff at Highland Paradise is from our tribe. We want to hold on to our heritage because it is one of a kind. It is important, not only for our tribe, but for the Cook Islands. “Our learning centre will also house the ceremonial costumes of the sub-chiefs of Maungaroa, to be preserved for future generations.” Unique tribal costumes are part of Highland Paradise’s ‘Ka’ara – Drums of our Forefathers’ cultural show that tells King Tinomana’s life story in dance and music, performed by his descendants. “We are an authentic Cook

Islands cultural show because our storyline is about our own people. In an hour of energetic performance and music, we retrace our history including when the missionaries arrived in the early 1800s, cannibalism, the effect of the Bible, right up to modern times,” Tutu said. “We want to develop school education programs and we would also like to reach out to other indigenous groups in the South Pacific. “If visitors want an authentic Cook Islands cultural experience, then they should come to Highland Paradise,” Tutu said.

Ka’ara – Drums of our forefathers is an authentic experience

No 1. Cook Islands Culture Award winner for several years

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Guided Tours: Guided Tours: $75 adult, $37.50 child (under 12 years); 10am every Tuesday & Thursday; approx. 3 hours. DVD Theatre and light lunch included call 21924 to book. Self-Guided Tours: $30 adult, $15 child (under 12 years); 9am-3pm Monday to Friday. Complimentary cold drink, DVD theatre included.

KA’ARA

“DRUMS OF OUR FOREFATHERS” SUNSET CULTURAL SHOW AND FEAST $99 Adult, $55 Child (under 12 years) - Monday, Wednesday & Friday call 21924 to book. Includes hosted round-trip transport, guides, village experience visit, tapu lifting, warrior welcome, a cocktail, a traditional Umu (underground oven) feast and cultural show. Guests are transported by coach from their accommodation in the late afternoon for an evening of authentic cultural entertainment and feasting.

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CoOK ISLANDS SuN

LIFE & CULTURE

19

DOCTOR RECALLS HIS YEARS IN THE SOUTH SEAS THROUGH A SERIES OF BOOKS

Long-time Cook Islands medical practitioner Dr Wolfgang Losacker is a specialist in tropical medicine, internal medicine and cardiology. He is a consultant at the Rarotongan Hospital and runs a private practice in Arorangi. In his spare time he publishes his own style of Cook Islands travel books and takes photographs to illustrate these colourful books.

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hen the German Cruise Ships travel to the South Seas Wolfgang often works as a lecturer on the ships between Sydney and Lima to explain all the history, culture and attractions of the Polynesian people and islands to passengers. As the past Honorary Consul for Germany he still helps out German nationals with all sort of problems.

His other passions are photography and storytelling, which led to the publication of the hardcover, coffee table classic, South Seas – Cook Islands, first published in 1997 in English and German, now in its third print. This attractive book, packed with 144 engaging and timeless photographs with accompanying words, covers

Wolfgang is something of an all-round living legend in the Cooks! “As a doctor, you are really needed here,” Wolfgang said of the Cook Islands, his chosen home for the past thirty-three years.

many of the qualities of Cook Islands life from its beautiful atolls and lagoons, to the welcoming Polynesian families, the festivals, the wildlife … the list goes on. Many of the photographs were taken whilst Wolfgang visited the outer islands as a doctor.

“Wolfgang is something of an all-round living legend in the Cooks!”

The grandson of a medical doctor in Germany and son of a journalist, writer, publisher and photographer, his family would be very pleased that Wolfgang has kept up many of his family traditions. To date, he has written nine books, six of them about the Cook Islands. Recently, Wolfgang held an historic photographic exhibition featuring twenty selected Cook Islands images in the BCA Gallery in Avarua’s 166 year-old Beachcomer building. Many of the images exhibited were from his book South Seas – Cook Islands. There are a limited number of ‘collector item’ copies of South Seas – Cook Islands and his short story book South Seas, My Stories available from the BCA Gallery and the Bounty Bookshop in Avarua; or, you can email Dr Losacker on: drwolf@oyster.net.ck or call 23 304.

Right: A young Dr Losacker visiting Aitutaki

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Above: His favourite beach image from the island of Palmerston

LD FAMOU OR

S

Pa’s TrEkS

Top left: Dr Wolfgang Losacker today

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mountain, enter pristine rainforest. Visit the sacred Marae.

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CoOK ISLANDS SuN

LIFE & CULTURE

PLEASE DON’T FEED THE DOGS OF RAROTONGA Dogs on Rarotonga, many whose lineage go back hundreds of years to the Polynesian migrants who brought them here, are generally agreeable, but not always! hey wander around like they own the place, and give the impression that they don’t belong to anyone! Mostly, they have a home and are fed by their owners, nevertheless, many are considered ‘wandering dogs’. Most are friendly; some are aggressive. It is always wise to be cautious around local dogs.

T

“They wander around like they own the place, and give the impression that they don’t belong to anyone!” However, when you encounter ‘wandering dogs’, please do not feed them. Whilst you may be a dog lover, the next visitor who encounters that animal may be frightened or apprehensive of dogs, and will not want dogs bothering them for food during their holiday. Whilst motoring around Rarotonga you will inevitably be unnerved when a dog (or dogs) suddenly wanders on to the road, usually without looking! No matter how much cursing or horn blasting, they will continue on their

Studio bungalows Kiteboarding lessons Night SUP lagoon tours Massage therapy

way unpreturbed. But notice how many three-legged dogs there are, so be aware! The President of the Rarotonga SPCA (Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals), Sharon Reichart, acknowledges there is a serious ‘wandering’ dog issue, especially with visitors. The SPCA is working resolutely with local owners, the tourism industry, and the Police, to improve the dog situation for the near future. “As part of the solution, we are campaigning to encourage dog owners to teach their dogs to stay at home to protect property and family. Dogs love training and learning new skills,” said Sharon.

...teach you this...

take you out at night to do this...

...and relax you with this

CALL US 27 955

info@arikiholidays.com | www.arikiholidays.com WE ARE LOCATED ON MURI LAGOON

Sharon creating ei’s

LEARN ABOUT THE DISTINCTIVE ART OF TIVAIVAI Tivaivai: a form of artistic quilting traditionally done by Polynesian women. The word literally means ‘patches’ unanga Nui Market on Saturday mornings is on the ‘must do’ list for most visitors to Rarotonga. Many are not aware that a limited version of the market operates Monday-Friday, and every Wednesday and Thursday a local group of ladies known as the Punanga Nui Vainetini Mamas showcase their tivaivai, including bedspreads, wall hangings, cushion covers, table runners and pillow cases with plain background fabrics overset with embroidered tropical flowers and other symbols of nature.

P

Ina Bishop (standing) and friends.

Visitors are invited to join the Mamas to learn this traditional craft. Basic Tivaivai materials can be purchased from Ina Bishop at the

BUY AN ‘EVERLASTING’ EI AS A GIFT OR SOUVENIR

O

ne shop open during the week at Punanga Nui Market is Kia Orana Gifts, where local Sharon Connal creates ei’s, the floral headwear worn in the Cook Islands. The difference is that Sharon makes them out of plastic flowers. “When flowers are not in season, then the ‘everlasting’ ei’s comes in,” said Sharon. “They are everyday wear for women including for church, weddings and celebrations.” Sharon said visitors buy ‘everlasting’ ei’s as a gift or souvenir. “I custom make the ‘everlasting’ ei’s when the visitor has favourite colours or flowers. They cost around $35, up to $50 if most flowers are used”. “Ei’s have been around for so many years. I can remember my grandmother telling me about her mother making ei’s, of course in those days only fresh ones. Our market here is tourists. The locals know how to do it, so they make their own”.

PARTNERS IN ADVENTURE! Sean Wichman and Patrick Jaletzky joined forces in 2009 to form ‘Adventure Cook Islands’, a one-stop enterprise offering diving, snorkeling, mountain trekking, hiring - bikes, scooters, kayaks, bodyboards, diving and snorkeling gear. They even offer local dance and drumming classes!

ean, a laid-back S Rarotongan, is a PADI Divemaster and

We offer you this...

market. Learn simple stitches for your tivaivai, and join in the conversation! You will not be asked to pay for your tivaivai lesson, but a donation to the Mamas is appreciated. Simply arrive at the main stage at Punanga Nui Market after 10 am on Wednesdays and/ or Thursdays, enjoy the colourful tivaivai on display and spend an hour or a day learning this lovely traditional craft.

Boat Master. In his spare time he performs with Highland Paradise and actively plays sport (mainly rugby). Patrick grew up in Cologne, Germany, having a French mother, a German father, a Polish family name and an Irish first name! He started scuba diving when he was 16 and now holds various PADI Instructor certifications

and a commercial skipper certification. Based on the Kavera Beach main road on the west coast, between the Rarotongan Resort and Rarotonga Backpackers, the partners in Adventure Cook Islands are kept busy with the wide variety of offerings for visitors. “We do more than diving and snorkeling. We have activities for everyone on land and in the sea.

Our tours and treks offer small groups and independent travellers unique experiences of our island, our village and our lifestyle,” said Patrick. “Join us on our famous Mountain Trek or take a Dance and Drum Lesson to learn the local rhythms”, added Sean. Visit adventurecookislands. com and check out what activities interest you, or call (+682) 22 212.


CoOK ISLANDS SuN

PAPA JACK THE DEFINITIVE ISLAND BOY

ADVENTURE

MEET SABINE ECO-WARRIOR OF THE COOK ISLANDS When you visit The Dive Centre (aka The Big Fish) at Aroa Beach in Rarotonga you get the feeling everything is well-organised and in good shape. That is also the way the co-owner Sabine Janneck approaches the Cook Islands lagoon and reef environment that she and her partner Sascha Schmitt feel privileged to work in.

B Papa Jack is at home in a coconut tree

The inimitable Papa Jack comes from Pukapuka, the most remote of the Cook Islands, 1140 kms north of Rarotonga.

H

e is known to ‘shimmy’ up and down the tallest of coconut trees on Motu Koromiri (Koromiri Island) in under nine seconds, a popular demonstration he performs for guests on Muri Beach’s Koka Lagoon Cruises where he has worked since it began in 2010. Papa Jack and his mischievous grin can be seen in the Air New Zealand safety video, which drew much attention with the Sports Illustrated models last year. He is a showman and entertainer who plays the ukulele, and who can weave just about anything out of kikau. Notably, he is the fastest coconut tree climber on Rarotonga! Papa Jack is the definitive island boy! One couple who encountered him on a Koka Lagoon Cruise a year or so ago, paid for him to fly to Britain and perform at their wedding, all expenses paid! Meet Papa Jack on a Koka Lagoon Cruise in Muri lagoon, 10.00am Sunday-Friday. Call 27769 or 55769 or visit www.kokalagooncruises.com

oth originally from Germany, Sabine and Sascha met in Mexico in 2003, where he was a dive instructor and Sabine was learning to dive. They got together and lived there for two years, then travelled around until they found their ‘home’ in the Cook Islands in 2006. Sabine expanded her passion for underwater photography and marine conservation and education once they bought The Dive Centre and settled. Sascha is the senior instructor and in charge of the diving and maintenance. He especially loves his collection of old glass bottles, all found here in the water. In 2007, the partnership was extended to include Patch, their mascot, and one of the big attractions for visitors to The Dive Centre. “We really have to look after our lagoons,” said Sabine. “If we don’t teach the kids to how to look after them, there will be nothing left over for future generations”. One of the points that Sabine makes when briefing her guests is ‘not to feed the fish’. She said they are friendly to underwater visitors, but she emphasises that the fish

Sabine with her plastic-wrapper bags

will stop cleaning the reefs if they are handfed regularly by divers and snorkelers. “I also remind guests not to step on the coral, which is very fragile and doesn’t recover once broken.” “We want our guest to have an absolutely awesome day, but we want our lagoon to have a good day too!”

“We want our guest to have an absolutely awesome day, but we want our lagoon to have a good day too!” “Guests are encouraged to explore the abundant fish variety of the lagoon right across the road from the Dive Centre in the Aroa Marine Reserve, as a snorkeler or diver. Alternatively, if they take a trip outside the reef they will feel the ‘real’ difference that Rarotonga and The Big Fish has to offer.” Sabine is a pro-active committee member of the Te Ipukarea Society. Ipukarea is literally translated as ‘our

heritage’. The Society’s philosophy is that ‘we do not own our land and marine resources, but borrow them from our future generations, and need to leave them in good condition’. “We try to make a difference, especially in reducing the rubbish,” said Sabine. “A friend who collected plastic wrappers, started to make a wallet and I really loved the idea. It was colourful and attractive; importantly, it helps take the rubbish off the landfill. Now I make them! “I stop at the roadside to pick wrappers up. I also ask my friends, staff, and students of the nearby Rutaki School, to collect them for me too.” Today, Sabine is a prolific manufacturer of plastic wrapper handbags, wallets and baskets. It is real local art! “The wallets start at $40. What a unique souvenir from the Cook Islands!” said Sabine. Visit Sabine in The Dive Centre at Aroa Beach, or contact her on (+682) 20238, (+682) 55238, or info@thedivecentre-rarotonga. com, 7 days a week. Information also available from thedivecentre-rarotonga.com. They also offer night diving!

ICE CREAM SERVED WITH A SMILE Look for our sign on the main road

Patch the dog, just after a swim

Photo: Sabine Janneck

Photo: Sabine Janneck

Reef Fish

Don’t leave Muri without one!

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22

ADVENTURE

Adventures on Land and Sea

BORN OUT OF PURE PASSION FOR KITESURFING, WINDSURFING PADDLE BOARDING & FITNESS

“We met on the first day I arrived in the Cook Islands at the Rarotongan Beach Resort and Spa. After working really hard for other people we decided we could do it better ourselves”, said Brynn Acheson, a native of Montana, USA, and co-owner of Kitesup Watersports Centre & Tours Desk. itesup was born K out of pure passion for the sports of

kiteboarding, windsurfing, paddleboarding and fitness,” said Brynn. Soon after arriving in the Cooks, Brynn teamed up with Troy Nooroa, a talented young Cook Islander who loves challenges, kiteboarding, surfing and snow kiting. You’ll also find him working his fire sticks for visitors at the nearby cultural show in Muri, Te Vara Nui. “We are very lucky with the natural conditions of Muri Lagoon. Paddle boarding is easy, fun and safe due to the protective nature of the lagoon. There is a lot to explore with the various motu’s (islets) to go around. Kitesurfing,

whether taking lessons or for experienced riders, is flat-water paradise. It’s accessible, shallow, tropical and social,” said Brynn.

“We are very lucky with the natural conditions of Muri Lagoon.”

“Fitness isn’t just my passion. I have a degree in Exercise Science. I can work with a range of clients and they will always have a professional experience. Most of my workouts are outdoors to be out among the beauty of the island.” When asked what is the one thing that Brynn and Troy most enjoy most about living and working in the Cooks, Byrnn replied: “We are living and doing what we love and able to make a living out of it”. Kitesup Watersports Centre & Tours Desk is located on the main road at Muri Beach. Contact Troy and Brynn at (+682) 27877, (+682) 76794, (+682) 51407 kitesupcookislands@hotmail.com, Facebook: Kitesup Cook Islands, or visit www.kitesup.co

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CoOK ISLANDS SuN

AITUTAKI

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MAKE YOUR VACATION TO THE COOKS COMPLETE

Many who visit the picturesque island of Aitutaki say that no vacation to the Cook Islands is quite complete without the experience. A relaxing forty-five minutes flight from Rarotonga and you are there! There is the ‘day tour’ with Air Rarotonga, or maybe stay a night or two, and more, and you too may feel that your vacation in the Cook Islands has been fulfilled! Giant Clams

Bone fisherman

A warm welcome to Aitutaki

clams) are farmed for sale to This commercial part of AMRC’s work helps finance overseas aquariums. their other conservation Some giant clams are assigned projects. AMRC also farms to the Aitutaki lagoon where Farming ‘giant’ clams native clams, known locally they are protected under as pa’ua. These are a muchThe Aitutaki Marine a ra’ui, the Maori term for loved food delicacy for Cook Research Center (AMRC) protection or stewardship. Islanders. You can visit the is a remarkable place to visit The cruise boats visit AMRC on north end of and discover how giant clams snorkeling sitescopy.pdf where the1 18/12/14 Aitutaki. are farmed. The introduced 0290_Jan-Jun_2015_BlackPearlCharters_Ad 12:17(See PM the Cook tridacnidae clams (aka ‘giant’ clams can be viewed. Islands Sun Aitutaki map).

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2. PRIVATE LAGOON / SNORKELLING TOURS - Enjoy a day exploring our lagoon without the crowds. More snorkeling than any other operator, including the outer reef. Visit as many islands as time allows and enjoy a BBQ on One Foot Island. Timings are flexible and families welcome. Half days also available. 3. SPEARFISHING - Spearfish your own lunch or dinner, experience not required. Phone Give us a call for details. 31125 home

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Photo: David Kirkland

itutaki has a population of 2000 residents, and no dogs! The island was the first of the Cook Islands to embrace Christianity, starting when London Missionary Society came along in the early 1800s. Aitutaki has the oldest church in the Cook Islands, and some of the biggest banyan trees! Recognisable photographically for its wide turquoise-coloured lagoon, unoccupied islets and palm-fringed beaches, Aitutaki is much more peaceful and less crowded than its neighbour, Rarotonga. And, it is always a little warmer on Aitutaki! One Foot Island in the lagoon is one of the most popular places to visit, and for some, to get married. This and other islets offer some of the finest views of the Aitutaki lagoon. The islets can be explored during a trip on lagoon cruises. Watersports on all sorts abound, including scuba diving, snorkeling, kiteboarding, deep-sea fishing and bone fishing. Back on land, the island of Aitutaki has an interesting history. There are tours that take visitors to ancient places, exploring the island and learning about the legacy of the American troops stationed on the island during WWII.

Photo: Peter Tang

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AITUTAKI

CoOK ISLANDS SuN

Aitutaki

AN INSTRUMENT OF HAPPINESS MADE IN AITUTAKI,

THE UKULELE

Turua’s custom-built ukuleles are carved out of local timber

The ukulele is so popular today that it is said to be the best-selling musical instrument in the Western world for school-age children and, believe it or not, baby boomers. It is a ‘happy’ instrument on which most aficionados can easily strum and play simple chords in no time.
In the Cook Islands, the ukulele is a heaven-sent contributor to the wonderful melodies of everyday music.

W

hether you are a serious musician in search of a custom-made ukulele, or an amateur looking for a quality hand-made ‘uke’, Aitutaki craftsman Turua Joseph probably has the solution. Turua spends his days carving ukuleles for local and overseas customers in his rural workshop. Turua is one of five boys born on Aitutaki to local parents who moved to Auckland to find a better life and education for their children. With experience in the electrical trade and Department of Corrections, Turua spent thirty-five years in New Zealand, then six years in Melbourne, before the call to return home to the idyllic island of Aitutaki became too great to ignore.

“When I came back briefly in ‘87, I planted a seed in my head to return home by the time I was forty; I got here eight years ago at age 42!” Turua said.

“a heaven-sent contributor to the wonderful melodies of everyday music” “I always intended to return home to carve and build beautiful ukuleles. I spent a couple of years learning the craft and skills associated with making ukuleles from a good friend in New Zealand. “Today, the designs for my custom-made ukuleles come

from those who commission the work; each has their own unique story. My customers are global, including tourists year round and overseas Cook Islanders who holiday here over Christmas and New Year. They hear about me by wordof-mouth”. Turua is working on five or six ukuleles at any one time, each taking four or five days to carve and complete. “I use pine for my ready-made ukes; the custom-built ones are carved out of local timber including wild hibiscus, Tou and Tamanu (mahogany). I also use imported timber when local timber is scarce or still drying. I use a chainsaw mill to process all local timbers that have been cleared or blown down by the weather. Ukulele prices range from

$150 (NZD) for a plain, ready-made ‘uke’ through to $900 (NZD) for a custombuilt, personalised and fullycarved ukulele. Turua and his South Australian, former schoolteacher wife, Stephanie, are intensely environmental aware, which is reflected in their onsite retail shop, T&S ArtworX. Turua uses only recycled woods, and Steph hand-crafts amazing jewellery out of recycled glass after applying a flame torch to a variety of salvaged coloured bottles, creating fashionable bracelets, necklaces, earrings and brooches. “When we got here, we considered ourselves semiretired, but it turns out that T&S ArtworX is fairly full on!” Turua said.

The carvings tells the owner’s unique story

Stephanie hand-crafts jewellery out of recycled glass

The location of T&S ArtworX workshop and retail outlet is marked and easy-to-find on the Cook Islands Sun’s Aitutaki Map. Contact Turua and Stephanie on tsartworx@aitutaki.net.ck, or call 31120.


CoOK ISLANDS SuN

AITUTAKI

25

BILL’S ‘SECRET GARDEN’ IS

NO SECRET ANYMORE! As a young man, Bill Tschan left his Swiss homeland and his work as an accountant to see the world. Departing on his great adventure from London by ship, he headed for the antipodes, spending two years in New Zealand before moving to Rarotonga in the Cook Islands in 1968 where he assisted in running an orange and pineapple juice factory.

T

wo years later he started up an import business. Bill then married Teetu in 1974 and they have four daughters. In 2002, he sold his business and moved to the island of Aitutaki, Teetu’s traditional home. Bill ‘retired’ to Aitutaki where he now relentlessly pursues his hobby of planting and working the soil, striving to be selfsufficient with what he and his family eats. Bill and Teetu had received a 3-acre property as a wedding gift. Left unattended all those years, Bill set about converting the ‘jungle’ property into one of the foremost collections of rare tropical fruit trees in the Pacific. His ‘secret garden,’ now boasts over 100 varieties of fruits from around the world including the Philippines, South East Asia, South America, South Pacific, Australia and New Zealand. Bill acknowledges the help he received from the USA’s Rare Fruit Society and many of his business friends around the world. Bill has

lovingly written and illustrated a comprehensive book that is very close to his heart and his passion: Willy R. (Bill) Tschan’s, Secret Garden of Aitutaki – Cook Islands. A Collection of Rare, Tropical Fruit-trees is destined to become a collector’s item. It comprises a series of colourful photographs of the fruits and the trees alongside informative descriptions, including comments on the natural treatments of various illnesses with these plants and fruits. Bill is a self-taught expert on natural remedies.

If you are simply an amateur gardener with a few fruit trees, or if you plan to take tropical fruit growing more seriously, Bill’s book will provide you with the definitive stimulation to advance your interests! Talk to Bill whilst during one of his personalised tours of ‘The Secret Garden’ and he will tell you that the Cook Islands has great potential to return to being a significant grower of fruits and vegetables in the region. Guided tours of ‘The Secret Garden’ in Aitutaki last around two hours and take place just about daily.

“One of the foremost collections of rare tropical fruit trees in the Pacific”.

‘Willy R. (Bill) Tschan’s Secret Garden of Aitutaki – Cook Islands. A Collection of Rare, Tropical Fruit-trees’ is available from the Bounty Bookshop in Rarotonga, or by contacting Bill on tarai@aitutaki.net.ck or calling 31010 / 57517. Use the same email and phone contacts for ‘The Secret Garden’ tours.

The Secret Garden AITUTA KI A journey of discovery and delight for all your senses. See rare plants from all over the world including the durian from Borneo; engkala from Sabah; peanut-butter fruit and sapodilla from South America; longan, mangosteen and rambutan from South East Asia; Ackee fruit and mircale berry from West Africa.

Owner and creator of the garden Bill Tschan will pick you up. Guided tours daily between 9 & 4pm. Tours last around two hours.

Phone 31 010 Mobile 57 517 Email tarai@aitutaki.net.ck

53 919


26

CoOK ISLANDS SuN

EATING OUT IN AITUTAKI

A I T U TA K I

EATING OUT GUIDE

– 5-Star Adults-only Resort (16+) 1 – ONLY resort set directly on expansive Aitutaki Lagoon!

CAFÉ , BAR & RESTAU R ANT LOCATIONS

– Aitutaki’s best location, best views, best food, best authentic atmosphere! ~ Seafood Platters | Sunset Cocktails ~ ~ Signature 5-Course Candlelit Menu ~ ~ Flying Boat Beach Bar & Grill ~ ~ Bounty Brasserie All-Day Dining ~ & Evening Entertainment ~ Casual Diners Welcome ~ MON WED & FRI Fire Dance Live with Show at Bounty Greig Mose Brasserie & Crab at Flying Boat Races Beach Grill

Akitua Island, Aitutaki Lagoon Cook Islands Telephone (+682) 31 200 Facsimile (+682) 31 202 info@aitutakilagoonresort.com www.aitutakiLagoonResort.com

S C00K I LANDS

3 5

2 1

FRI NiteLife FunBus Tour $35pp

2 4

4

Open Mon-Sat from 6:30pm Major credit cards accepted Fully licensed Bookings essential

Call 31 678

Email us: tupunasrestaurant@aitutaki.net.ck

3

TAUTU • AITUTAKI

5


CoOK ISLANDS SuN

ATIU

AITU

27

Photo: Kieran Scott

SMALL ISLAND, BIG SURPRISES

Atiu, also known as Enuamanu (meaning ‘land of the birds’), is only 187 km from Rarotonga. It is a volcanic island surrounded by a reef with high cliffs made of fossilised coral (makatea). The population is around 500 residents. one of a famous battle, another of a cannibal feast, and yet another of revenge.

ARTISTS

Another surprise in Atiu is the quality of art that is created there. The work includes that of internationally-acclaimed fabric artist, Andrea Eimke, painter Jeanne Humphries, and the tivaivai/tivaevae (traditional style of embroidery and applique) hand-sewn by Atiuan woman.

He offers to show visitors these birds and other birds of Atiu in a three-hour tour. In another tour George presents ancient trails, different types of plants and their uses, the beaches, a picnic and, of course, the birds. This tour lasts between four to five hours and

BRING CASH TO ATIU You need to bring cash with you to Atiu. There are no ATMs on Atiu, so you need cash for basic supplies and for tours.

GETTING THERE

Photo: David Kirkland

CAVES

Atiu’s extensive cave systems are a rewarding experience with guided tours to two of the main caves: the Anatakitaki Cave and the Rimarau Burial Cave. Deep within Anatakitaki Cave are the nests of the kopeka bird, which is unique to Atiu. This swiftlike bird navigates in the dark using an echo locating series of clicks. The walk across the makatea to the caves is a fairly strenuous 30-minutes so you need sturdy footwear. Mystery surrounds the origins of the human bones in Rimarau Burial Cave. There are many legends, including

Photo: Kieran Scott

tiu is a peaceful island community with unusual geology and a small township of brightly-coloured houses. Underground is a labyrinth of limestone caves, above ground parts of the island are formed from ancient coral reef covered with dense tropical rainforest. There are organised tours of the caves, the coffee production, historical and cultural sites, and the birdlife. The varied range of accommodation on Atiu offer plenty of local hospitality and charm. Operators are welcoming and they recommend and organise tours.

Air Rarotonga flies between Atiu to Aitutaki up to three times per week making it possible to include both islands in your itinerary.

ATIU COFFEE Missionaries established the coffee industry commercially in the early 19th century and the business has endured, ups and downs aside, to this day.

GETTING AROUND

Although Atiu is great for walking, a scooter or bicycle will allow you to explore more of the island.

Photo: Kieran Scott

A

Photo: Kieran Scott

Birdman George, aka George Mateariki, is employed by the Takitumu Conservation Area to look after the thirty Rarotongan Flycatchers (Kakerori) transferred to Atiu from Rarotonga as part of a recovery program.

includes a picnic with local food from his family's earth oven. George worked on the recent successful project to eradicate myna birds from Atiu, which preyed on the young of the other birds.

If you want to experience the wildlife and tropical forests of Atiu, join one of George’s eco-tours.

CALL 33 047

Phone: (682) 33034


CoOK ISLANDS SuN THE OUTER ISLANDS OF THE COOKS 28

OUTER ISLANDS

COOK COOKISLANDS ISLANDS

the island. The landscape is covered in caves.

Penrhyn

Manuae & Te Au O Tu

Rakahanga

Two islets in a large shallow lagoon make up this island, an important seabird and turtle breeding ground.

Manihiki

Pukapuka

Mauke

Northern Group

Nassau

Suwarrow Palmerston

Aitutaki Manuae Takutea

Southern Group

Mitiaro

Mitiaro

Atiu Mauke

Rarotonga Mangaia THE OUTER ISLANDS Fifteen islands make up the Cook Islands, scattered over an area close to the size of Western Europe. Ninety percent of the land and the population are within the Southern Group. In addition to Rarotonga, Aitutaki and Atiu already covered in the previous pages, here is a brief description of the islands of the Southern and Northern Group.

A raised atoll surrounded by fossilised coral and like Atiu and Mangaia has numerous limestone caves. The Cook Islands Christian Church here was the centre of a dispute between two villages in 1882 and the two sides of the church were decorated in two different, but equally glorious, styles. Each village had its own entrance and villagers sat on their own side.

THE SOUTHERN GROUP Mangaia

The southern-most island of the Cooks, and the oldest island in the Pacific dating back 18 million years. An outer reef and sixty metrehigh ring of fossilized coral cliffs surround the island. The rim of coral extends inland and forms steep cliff faces that drop into the central basin of

The smallest of the Southern Group and the least populated with around 180 residents. Freshwater pools are fed by underground lakes and believed by locals to have healing properties.

THE NORTHERN GROUP Manihiki

Suwarrow

The most isolated island in the group. People have inhabited the island from at least 300 BC. The island is noted for its finely woven mats.

was declared a National Heritage Park in 2002 and is a breeding ground for rare species of turtles, sea birds and crabs. In the mid-19th century a ship out of Tahiti carrying out salvage work unearthed a box containing $15,000 in coins, apparently from a century before from a British raid on Spanish shipping. In 1876, several silver pieces-of-eight were discovered in a turtle nest. But the find was hastily reburied and is still to be re-discovered!

42km north-east of Manihiki, Rakahanga is an atoll with a picturesque, almost totally enclosed lagoon.

This is the northernmost island of the Cooks famous for its finely woven rito hats and bags.

A large atoll with a deep lagoon, Manihiki is now intensively farmed for black pearls. Life centres on the lagoon and pearl farming.

Nassau

This is a small island and satellite community of Pukapuka.

Pukapuka

Rakahanga

Penrhyn

Palmerston

About 50 residents live on Palmerston. They are all descended from William Marsters and his three Polynesian wives.

Takutea

This sanctuary 16km northwest of Atiu protects the breeding site of a number of sea birds including frigates and tropicbirds. It is only 6 metres above sea level at its highest point.

A BRIEF INTERPRETATION OF THE COOK ISLANDS 50TH ANNIVERSARY LOGO

T

he entire logo represents the ‘pito enua’ concept of heritage, the birth of a person - the birth of a nation, our beginnings and our connection to land, sea and the heavens. The 15 ‘Mou rima represents the unity of our islands and the links that strengthen our island nation.

The 16 ‘Manutai’ are the “traditional ara matangi” wind directions that have scattered our people across the Pacific and the Globe. The outward facing Manutai also represent the continual growth and direction of our people. Matariki is the constellation in the centre. This is referred to as Mata Ariki

the eyes of god, is a principal constellation for traditional navigational highways. When Matariki rises in June, this was our celebration period for our harvests from the land, sea and sky. Matariki is our connection to the past and to our future. We are all born under the stars of Matariki, which

therefore represents each persons connection to where they were born, whether on Rarotonga, Atiu, Manihiki, Pukapuka, …Hawaii, Savaii, Raiatea, Rapa, etc…where you were born is YOUR ‘pito o te fenua.’ Nick Henry | Chairman 50th Celebrations Steering Committee

COOK ISLANDS SUN SUPPORTERS Adventure Cook Islands Air Rarotonga Scenic Flight Air Rarotonga Aitutaki Day Tour Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa Alberto’s Restaurant Ariki Holidays Atiu Arts Studio/Coffee/Guesthouse Atiu Villas & Kura’s Kitchen Avaiki Cook Islands Pearls AVIS Beaches Restaurant & Bar Bishop’s Cruises Boat Shed Restaurant & Bar Bounty Bookshop Black Pearl Fishing Charters Blue Water Grill Café, The Capt Tama’s Lagoon Cruizes Captain Andy’s Beach Bar & Grill CIPS Image & Copy Centre Coco Grill Restaurant & Bar Coconut Tours Computer Man, The Cook Islands Pharmacy Cook Islands Tours Cook Islands Tourism Accreditation Cook Islands Real Estate Cook’s Fudge Factory Crown Beach Resort Crusoe’s Restaurant & Bar Dive Aitutaki ‘Bubbles Below’ Dive Centre, The Edgewater Resort & Spa eshop.korucafe.biz Farm Direct Pearls Fexco Pacific Money Exchange Goldmine Highland Paradise Ice Cream @ Muri Id.CK Fashion Island Car & Bike Rentals Island Craft Islander, The Jetsave Travel Kites Up Cook Islands Koka Lagoon Cruises Koru Café La Casita Mexican Café LBV Bakery & Café Matutu Beer Moana Gems Pearl & Art Gallery Muri Beach Club Hotel Spa Oceans Restaurant & Bar Pa’s Walks Perfumes of Rarotonga Polynesian Car & Bike Rental Popoara Rentals Rarotonga Car Rentals Reef Sub Cruises Rent Raro Rickshaw Café, The Rito Cook Islands Rhino’s Beach Bungalows & Rentals Rumours Waterfall Spa Sails Restaurant & Bar Samade on the Beach Seafari Game Fishing Charters Secret Garden, The Shipwreck Hut Beach Bar Silver Sands Restaurant & Bar Spa Ariki Spaghetti House Storytellers Eco Cycle Tours T&S Artworx Tamarind House Restaurant & Bar Taparere Lodge Tarani Craft and Pearls Te Tika Te Vara Nui Tivaevae Collectables Tokerau Jim – Pure Local Treasure Chest Tumunu Restaurant & Bar, The Tupuna’s Restaurant Wigmore’s Superstore Waterline Restaurant & Beach Bar Wet & Wild Aitutaki Whale & Wildlife Centre Yellow Hibiscus Restaurant & Bar

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