The Bench Issue Eight

ISSUE 8 SPRING 2015

The

ROCK!

Inside...

Argentium the miracle material Jewellery for special occasions Swarovski tutorial Seasonal trends The healing power of crystals

Issue

Johnny Rocket talks Rocks 'n' Roll

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3099 The Bench Issue 8_AW 2.indd 1

01/04/2015 12:23

Look in with Lisa

Rocking your world

issue 8 SPRING 2015

elcome to this extra-special ‘Rock’ issue of The Bench. The focus in the pages that follow is on the minerals, rocks and precious and semi-precious stones that, well, rock our world as jewellery makers.

Not only that but we take the ‘rock’ theme further still by exploring the fascinating world of the rocks god himself, Johnny Rocket. We also reveal the remarkable story that led to the development of a form of silver whose properties put traditional sterling in the shade.

Contents

Rocks for rockers

This time round our big celebrity interview focuses on the unique and fascinating world of Aussie jewellery Issue maverick Johnny Rocket who cites influences as diverse as Rene Lalique, Vivienne Westwood, Malcolm McLaren and The Clash in creating extraordinary iconic pieces for such rock royalty as Jay Kay and The Darkness.

ROCK!

04 Trend Watch

Take a dip into these exciting seasonal trends. Come on in, the jewellery’s lovely!

17 ImpressArt

08 Johnny Rocket

18 Argentium

Taking Kylie and Jay Kay into orbit... the rocksmeister speaks!

Call now and speak with one of our helpful sales advisors:

49 Hatton Garden London EC1N 4YS

0845 100 1122

Order before 3pm for same day despatch

Click:

Over 17,000 products in stock

cooksongold.com

When you are finished with this magazine please pass it on to a friend or neighbour, or recycle it. Ta :)

2

Impress these copper blanks and impress your friends!

We trace the remarkable story of the miracle material of the moment: Argentium silver.

12 Swarovski tutorial 20 Meet the designer: Create this fab blingy bracelet with Sharon Philogene the Crystal Dome Bead Bracelet Kit from Swarovski®.

14 Jewellery for special occasions

Be queen bee or cock of the walk with these sparkling finishing touches!

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3099 The Bench Issue 8_AW 2.indd 2-3

We catch up with the oh-sointriguing Ms. Snow.

06 Stone setting

These stones will always be top of the charts.

Counters: 59-83 Vittoria Street Birmingham B1 3NZ

16 Deep Snow

Beauty that’s more than skin deep: the healing powers of crystals.

22 Wubbers tutorial The key to creating a beautiful Sorrento scroll bracelet is these Wubbers bail making pliers.

This time our Trend Watch section grabs its beach towel and flip flops and takes a dip in the ocean to find some hot nautical (but nice!) themes for the coming season. We also reveal the remarkable tale of how the intrepid folk from Two Skies go free diving off the island of Iona in search of the island’s coveted and very beautiful ‘Green Marble’.

Material gains

Experienced silversmith Peter Johns of Middlesex University tells us the incredible story of how a student’s casual question about the problem of firestain led to the discovery of Argentium, a material whose properties exceed those of traditional sterling silver in every conceivable respect.

Visit cooksongold.com for the full range

Complete Set of Diamond and Gemstone Templates

Technical Jewellery Design Template

Sharon’s stones

Hot rocks

Jewellery Design Stationery

• Round and fancy cut stones 997 501 £12.19

The

Brighton (where else?)-based crystal healer and jewellery designer Sharon Philogene explains how the crystals and minerals we use in our jewellery can be harnessed to channel healing energy and reveals how each gemstone has special properties to heal specific diseases. And, most intriguingly of all, how her jewellery designs actually come to her while she’s meditating!

6 of the best...

• For flat ring shanks 997 498

£18.30

Special jewellery for special occasions

As the nights draw out, the days warm up and your social calendar starts to fill up, we highlight the jewellery you need to give your outfit that essential pizzazz. Because the competition to look your best at Royal Ascot, The Derby or Henley Regatta can be every bit as intense as the rivalry out on the track or on the water! So, if you’ve never stopped to consider the power of the humble cufflink, read on!

...and some very practical hints and tips!

If all this inspiration, well, inspires you to try out some exciting new techniques, our regular tutorial features stone settings, a gorgeous Sorrento scroll bracelet and a sparkling, stylish bracelet using the fabulous Swarovski® Crystal Dome Bead bracelet kit.

Staedtler Pigment Liner Technical Drawing Pen Set • 4 sizes 0.1mm to 0.7mm 997 461

£11.73

Staedtler Triplus Fineliner Pen Set

• 6 gemstone colours 997 468 £6.25

Enjoy the magazine, and your jewellery making!

On the cover:

Staedtler Mars Technico Designer's Mechanical Pencil • With 2mm HB lead Editor

'Blake' designed by Johnny Rocket and Sunny Warrington, part of the Jungle City outdoor exhibition in Edinburgh.

Raised £25,000 at auction for Elephant Family, the UK’s biggest funder for the endangered Asian elephant. elephantfamily.org

997 464

£9.44

Daler Rowney Series A Sketchbook A3

• 25 pages • 150gsm 997 473 £8.29

Please note that all prices in this magazine are intended as a guide only and are subject to change. These are cash prices and are exclusive of VAT. Sizes, images and measurements are approximate and variations may occur.

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Dust off your platforms, squeeze into those flares and add a little supersized 70s fun with this extrovert trend. Whether it’s eye-popping dayglo bangles – either all fabric, or fabric woven around precious metal – or earrings bedecked with tassels and charms, this trend is sure to keep going strong all summer long!

Daradali

Hippy and dippy

These contemporary pieces from The Great Frog (1) harness classic rock and roll motifs such as skulls, bones and snakes, all individually hand-crafted in precious metal. We think this bold bangle synchs perfectly with the current trend for chunky jewellery.

Ra'ike

ake a dip f into some o g the excitin ry new jewelle ing an trends mak e in the appearanc ollections jewellery c ... and this spring sh out

The Great Frog makes a splash too...

1

spla maybe even elf! rs u on a few yo

Friendship Bracelet Maker with 20 Mixed Colour Threads 998 P004 £12.87

Dips in the ocean & Hippy dippy chic

And don’t miss Jacqueline Cullen’s (2) stunning and contemporary Whitby jet jewellery inspired by the more dramatic extremes of nature, from a placid sky ripped apart by a slash of lightening to a volcano erupting and a cliff edge left torn and jagged by erosion.

Why not add a little of this bold trend to your bench by browsing our extensive range of gemstones and beads for natural stones...

Swarovski Crystal Pack of 6 Mini Square Bead, 5053, 6mm, Jet 62SW Q05X

Swarovski Crystal BeCharmed Round Pavé Charm Bead, 80 101, 14mm, Jet Hematite

2

61SW CB25

Swarovski Crystal Pack of 12, Briolette Bead, 5040, 6mm, Jet 62SW B38X

Swarovski Crystal Pack of 25 Pearl Beads, 5810, 8mm Black 62SW P801

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Whether it’s graphite, marble or jet, chunky hunks of natural stone are getting set in earrings and swinging from pendants this spring to show off their unadorned, natural beauty.

Two Skies Design, (3) meanwhile, creates beautiful jewellery from the natural iona Green Marble found on the beaches and in underwater seams at the south-west corner of the island. This 2.7 billion-year-old rock is a unique combination of green serpentine and white marble, stunning colours beautifully evocative of the distinctive tones of the Scottish landscape.

This Green Marble has been treasured and crafted by jewellers in the area for centuries. in fact, it is said that local fishermen would not even leave the port without their lucky green gems onboard.

Traditionally, the stone has also been used by healers to help the body return to an age free from the stresses of modern life.

Remarkably, in order to find this rare stone, the team from Two Skies have to take their own dip in the ocean, free diving off the island into the freezing waters of the Atlantic to find the material in its perfect natural state, as the island of Iona itself is owned by the National Trust and therefore protected.

Use the ImpressArt Nautilus shell design to impress your friends by incorporating a little seaside charm into your own jewellery designs.

3 oskiesscotland

And you thought the days were drawing out. Not so! Because all over the catwalks you’ll find the trend for materials in the darkest of shades for spring. Whether it’s onyx, diamonds, jet, or even black coloured glass, perspex or enamel, there’s nothing more striking or sophisticated than black splashed with a dash of gold.

facebook.com/tw

The days are getting darker...

AnOTHeR DiP in THe OCeAn...

ImpressArt Nautilus Shell Design Stamp 6mm 999 IA25

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Earrings Hook Wire

Bracelet What you'll need:

1x double flat loop oval stone set finding in swiss blue CZ NV3 OX8B

What you'll need:

420mm of loose 12/18 silver trace chain

2x single flat loop square stone set findings in amethyst CZ NV3 SH6A 1x pack silver earring hook wires Round nose pliers

WVT C00

4x 2.5mm open silver jump rings

NVK 021X

NVH L25

1 pack 5mm silver closed bolt rings NVD C50X

999 697

1 Use round nose pliers to open loop on hook wire 2 Thread one stone set finding onto loop

Round nose pliers

999 697

Cutters

999 705

1 Use cutters to cut chain into six 70mm lengths

3 Carefully use round nose pliers to close loop

2 Use round nose pliers to open a jump ring

4 Repeat steps 1-3 for second earring

3 Attach one end of three chain lengths onto jump ring 4 Carefully also attach the open jump ring to one side of the stone set finding. This can be a bit fiddly!

Get your rocks ON… with stone set findings If you’ve been inspired by our Trend Watch article to create your own stone set jewellery, our simple starter tutorials use versatile and beautiful stone set findings to help you get the look!

Earrings Stud What you'll need:

2x single flat loop round stone set findings in garnet CZ NV3 RH8G

5 Close with pliers 6 Repeat steps 2-5 with another jump ring and the other three lengths of chain, attaching to the other side of the stone set finding 7 Close with pliers 8 Open a third jump ring and attach to the three loose ends of chain at one side of the bracelet 9 Close with pliers 10 Repeat step 8 with a fourth jump ring at the other side of the bracelet 11 Carefully also attach this open jump ring to the closed loop of a bolt ring 12 Close with pliers

Pendant What you'll need:

1x single flat loop square stone set finding in white CZ NV3 SH6W 1x pack silver fluted pendant bails

NVM 001X

1x 12/18 silver trace chain 16” necklet VVT CFA Snipe nose pliers

999 693

1 Hook stone set finding onto bail 2 Use snipe nose pliers to close bail 3 Thread bail onto chain

All these styles and colours in stock and ready to be made into beautiful jewellery

1x pack 3mm bead and loop silver stud earring fittings NVJ 033X 1x pack sterling silver scrolls Round nose pliers

NVL 003X 999 697

1 Use round nose pliers to open loop on bead and loop stud fitting 2 Thread one stone set finding onto loop 3 Carefully use round nose pliers to close loop 4 Attach a scroll and repeat steps 1-3 for second earring

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Interview

rocks

‘ n’

roll

H

i Johnny. What was it about growing up in Brisbane, Australia that influenced your outlook on life?

I grew up in Brisbane under an ultraconservative and ultimately corrupt government during the seminal days of punk rock. I saw a lot of injustice, prejudice and racism. I also saw how a bunch of young people could effect change through creativity, music, art and intelligent debate – so I think this has instilled in me the desire to always question the status quo and if it’s not working, re-invent it.

and The Stranglers and fell in love with it all. My high school was a core for the formative Brisbane scene. I managed friends’ bands, promoted gigs, toured; I ran nightclubs – all because the conventional music business wouldn’t have us. I got my nickname for being demanding – if you didn’t get your butt on stage or you messed the audience around you’d get one of Johnny’s Rockets. I was very committed to doing things right. You pay money for a gig, you get the best I can deliver. I did all this whilst achieving my goals as an apprentice. I thought I’d left all that behind in Australia. Inevitably my musician mates ended up touring here, my wife heard the stories – so, good idea for a brand name. Well that’s the story- it’s stuck with me to the point that not many people know my birth name!

What first turned you on to jewellery design?

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3099 The Bench Issue 8_AW 2.indd 8-9

Where did the name Johnny Rocket come from? It seems to have a kind of 50s American rock ‘n’ roll vibe...

Far from it! It’s punk rock all the way – I saw The Saints in Brisbane at Oxley Hall when I was 14/15, saw The Clash

You can’t have art and society without a soundtrack. Music inspires fashion, design, youth, culture and rebellion.

It attracts individuals with crazy ideas who inspire each other. I would be making fairly bland work without the influence of those people I have lived, worked, learned, and collaborated with throughout my career. I see kids who are very technically talented but can’t break the rules and the opposite: kids who want to break them without understanding what they want to react against. Musicians speak another language, they are disciplined in their language and techniques but they also move out and beyond that. That’s the path I think that inspires me.

Oh dear – the worst question in any interview!

I know... how to sum up a lifetime of inspiration in a single soundbite...

Yeah... I mean how can you distil that down to a concise answer without marginalising a lifetime of love? The jeweller who leaves me in awe will always be Rene Lalique, so when Vivienne Becker’s catalogue from the V&A exhibition was dumped on my bench the lights went on. Genius! That’s it: go look if you don’t know his body of work; if you do, I don’t need to elaborate.

And did you have any formal training?

Your intrepid Bench reporter rocks up in his vintage Stranglers Rattus Norvegicus Tour ’77 tee shirt to interrogate the wild child of jewellery-making, Johnny Rocket, aka Greenwich-based Aussie designer to the (rock) stars John Pearce, about his unique knack of combining gemstones with a rock ‘n’ roll ethos. Is he rock god or rocks god?

We think he’s both... but read on and decide for yourself…

And how would you say you translate that into your work?

Who are your heroes past and present?

My mother – my father died when my brother and I were extremely young, so as soon as I could get a part-time job I found one working in the jewellers in our local mall. The manager was English raised and trained in Birmingham and taught me about the history and introduced me to jewellery. This job, whilst still in high school, was the key moment in my career.

The company was/is a huge family run business, Wallace Bishop. They had 50 stores at one point throughout Australia.

My mum told me go to University or learn a trade. Through my manager at the jewellery store, I was lucky enough to be brought to the attention of Mr Bishop and he let me try a month as a watchmaker and the same as a jeweller.

They had a huge factory in Brisbane with 50 tradesmen and four apprentices each year. Everything was created in house, from the boxes to the stone cutting, with specialist tool makers and craftsmen for everything. I was indentured for four years as a mounter, then two years as a diamond setter. The best work experiences of my life, apprenticeships are the only way to learn a craft. I graduated with honours each year and became a key part of the firm.

Smashing where Britpop really started to blow up huge. I love musicians who care, who break the rules, who have style and wear it with pride. Never dismiss anything: your ears and your heart will always stand you in good stead.

You have strong musical influences.

Which style of music do you find particularly inspiring?

I have a hugely eclectic taste in music – I remember hearing Johnny Cash in the back seat of my dad’s DeSoto in the outback of Oz when I was five. My uncles worked with Australia’s version of Elvis – Johnny O’Keefe, my older cousins dragged me to see Led Zeppelin and I refused to go (punks didn’t do Zep – I was 14). I seem to have been in the right spot and time for so many musical movements and it all leaves its imprint on your soul. I was right in the heart of it in Oz: punk new romantic, ska and electronica. I was living in Sydney when grunge exploded – I worked with Mudhoney and some support band they brought over – Nirvana – who went on to achieve something I think... Then, when I was first in London, Madchester and rave were dominant. My wife and I used to go to this club in Regent Street called

As for music, follow me on Spotify and you’ll see I can’t reduce it to a minimum but if I had to die with something in my ears it would be Iggy & the Stooges or Etta James but it may depend on what I ate that day! I read three fiction books a week and god knows what else so you can’t pin me down there either. I loved Lee McQueen (Alexander McQueen), Malcolm McLaren and Dame Vivienne but our tastes change and our heroes should evolve alongside us or be replaced with new ones as we transform ourselves.

How would you describe your style?

To what extent are you actually designing for yourself?

Eclectic. I don’t conform to one strong signature like Shaun (Leane) or Stephen (Webster). It would be too restrictive. I am more reactive to what I am feeling or going through at that point when I sit down. Like most designers, it’s another catalyst that starts the process, be it a book, building, some element that

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You’ve collaborated with some stellar names such as Tom Ford and Julien Macdonald. Who have you enjoyed working with most?

turns the tap on. If people think I have a rock ‘n’ roll signature it’s probably a fair cop as having music around stimulates the senses and sets up an atmosphere conducive to creating.

Since we have had the retail shop, I find myself designing with the influence of the client when it is a bespoke item.

It needs a similar set of skills as when you design for a corporate or designer client, so whilst you can let a measured amount of your style into the resulting piece you’re creating something that encompasses the desires of the person commissioning as they must derive joy from the result and the process.

I am still crafting new collections but not at the same pace as when I first started. For ten years we used to deliver two new women’s and a men’s collection per season and when I say we, I mean me! That was from design to samples, with my own hands. Having the complexities of running the entire business at all levels, still very much in my control, I tend to deliver one a season now and make more time for things I want to explore. I am moving back to making for myself in my free time, which is just discovering that part of you that gets lost with commercial success and pressure.

There isn’t a bad one amongst them; collaborative work teaches you about other disciplines and processes. I mean I derived a whole new skill set from working with each of them. Like my first girlfriend, or favourite teacher, the one who was most memorable was my first catwalk collaborator who no one outside of the industry would know: Owen Gaster. He was a contemporary of Alexander McQueen and, like McQueen, a great cutter/tailor, very much mentioned in the same breath.

Instead of the historical influence, Owen is a futurist: his work was driven by drum ‘n’ bass and technical fabrics. He introduced ragga and bling into fashion.

He pushed me hard and we still seek each other out on projects. He was L’Wren Scott’s designer and does all The Rolling Stones’ clothes. His work is highly collectable.

encompassing. He forgave me for almost killing Kylie with our robotic suit, so he is obviously a genuinely brilliant chap.

Do you have an absolute favourite piece that you’ve designed?

Probably the Kyborg for Kylie’s Fever tour: technically the most demanding thing I have ever created. I got to cover Kylie in plaster of Paris, make a piece inspired by Gene Roddenberry and almost electrocute her! It survived two years of touring and is now in the museum in Melbourne. All this whilst trying to support my wife having our first child: it was like being at two births and set me up for the sleep deprivation of having children. Kylie, Willie and Julien were the first to send flowers when Ruby was born: such intense memories...

With your Swarovski-studded Coke bottles... was it about making something throwaway more permanent... a sort of pop art sensibility?

Then Julien (Macdonald) let me through the doors of Givenchy and opened up the secrets of high couture to me and I got to slide down the same banisters as Audrey Hepburn so I am ever grateful for that!

Your shop in Greenwich has received rave reviews not least from British Vogue. What makes it so special?

We love our work and we want to share that with our customers. Our customers are our raison d’etre. They inevitably become our friends, we never lie to them and we impart our knowledge and passion for what we do without constraint and deliver on our promises.

You, as a customer, never have a problem when we are involved: if there is a problem, it’s ours, not the client’s.

The gallery reflects our love of jewellery, we bring in the best of designers, the materials, the aspiration and it all synergises to create the environment we are working in.

same principles to your life... just don’t hurt anyone or yourself in the process.

Be generous and pass on what you learn without prejudice.

And how has Cooksongold itself been a help or an inspiration in your work generally?

I have had an account with Cooksongold from day one, when I was scrabbling to buy consumables and materials for collections. When I got to the stage where I needed sponsors for showpieces for Victoria’s Secret, or charity pieces like the Maggie’s Hospice guitar, they opened their hearts and bullion store. We have used cutting edge metals and the technical knowledge behind Cooksongold to facilitate some stunning pieces and raise cash for some very worthy causes. Day to day, their business helps to sustain mine through the diversity of products, speed of delivery and great service. If it was any other way we wouldn’t be their client.

The store showcases the work of a number of young designers. What are your criteria for taking them on board?

Of the iconic pieces you’ve created, such as Jamiroquai’s warrior headdress, the Swarovskiembellished guitar for Justin from The Darkness, Kylie’s tour jewellery and your Swarovski-covered animal sculptures, which has given you the most pleasure?

Technically, Jay Kay’s headdress as he is a perfectionist and I got to utilise some of the services of the legendary silversmith Grant Macdonald, and it was my first experience of what lasers could bring to modern jewellery work.

It was part of my continued work with Kylie’s creative director William Baker who is like me a cultural sponge: his knowledge of the creative world is all

intense! I get on his nerves too but we are mates who disagree at times. I think he has had to adapt to me more than I to him: I’m used to those challenges.

Ask any mounter about setters and vice versa: we shouldn’t work together!

The dynamics are totally opposite, my work is not millimetre perfect or restrained, so he introduces that to the mix and it works.

No... it was purely an ego challenge; Karl Lagerfeld had just done a bottle for Diet Coke. So how can you not step up? I mean, they’re asking me, a coal miner’s son from the back end of Australia, to design something special for ‘The Bottle’. I used to collect them for the 10 cents refund when I was a kid. I owe Coke for my comic collection and some of my early records. It was such a fun project and Nadja Swarovski backed us with all their resources, Selfridges made us welcome and we sold all of them in half the two weeks expected.

Johnny Rocket is the only brand apart from Coke to appear on that billboard in its existence and we are such a small operation that sort of thing is huge for our team.

Niall Paisley joined the business in 2002. How has Niall’s input influenced your work?

Oh he’s a pain in the butt; he drives me mad with his attention to detail. He is

It won’t break! The prime basis is quality: it must be well executed. Regardless of materials or design, we don’t want returns or our customers to lose faith.

Unlike the internet, we are here and culpable for any problems, so it’s all an extension of the customer service ethos. Design is the next criteria: grab me, seduce me with your ideas and render them to make me fall in love with your work. I am an extension of my customers, a barometer of their taste. If you can do that, you should be able to enchant our very discerning clients.

Any tips for jewellery makers starting out in the industry?

Learn to make – really make, then when someone does ask you for the impossible, you will have the confidence to deliver. Ask older craftsmen and women. The jewellery trade is very forthcoming with nurturing talent if respectfully asked. Be enthusiastic and, if you don’t love this craft, leave! You can’t fake it. Be gregarious, step outside your shell... this is a discipline where you have to sell yourself along with your work. Don’t be shy but at the same time lose the arrogance... and manners go a long way in this world. Suck it up, absorb everything, keep learning from the young and the old. When you know the rules of making jewellery, bend them, then if necessary, break them. Apply the

designers’ in a week and, if you play the kazoo on the X Factor you’re a celebrity... it’s pretty intense out there and I personally think the celebrity route is much devalued. If you can get an icon to buy into your brand and your creativity it may be beneficial... I really think we need some new ideas.

Which celebrity would be the perfect fit for the image you’ve created for the brand?

As you can see I’m over the celebrity product placement tricks! I never gave away products or placed them... the people who wear my work have all paid market value for it and they placed orders because they genuinely aspire to wear what I create. I struggle with the current concept of celebrity, someone who’s only claim to fame is a reality TV appearance isn’t a STAR! The concept has been devalued. I’ve met STARS – Dame Shirley Bassey is a star, Kylie is a star… they have an aura. They exist beyond mere mortality. I concede that most iconic stars don’t suit what we create... we’re a bit out there in that. Gaga, Marilyn Manson, Siouxsie Sioux – those twisted souls who have a touch of the manic mixed with some old fashioned glamour – that’s my kinda people.

And the most important question of all... Saints, AC/DC or Tame Impala?

Tame Impala? Hippies.

And the Pistols always said ‘never trust a hippie’ of course!...

Has celebrities wearing your creations helped build the Johnny Rocket brand?

I think I was very fortunate to be starting in fashion when I did. Jewellery wasn’t being celebrated in the fashion magazines to the extent it is today. I was amongst a very small group of jewellers who were prepared to challenge conceived traditions of jewellery. Scott Wilson, Naomi Filmer, Lara Bohinc, myself and Shaun Leane all knew each other very well and we all seemed prepared to work with individuals on the catwalk who may have driven ‘normal’ jewellers insane. The celebrity associations for all of us came from this exposure... relationships formed with musicians, models, and stylists existed because of the integrity and audacity of the pieces created. It was easier to develop a brand off the back of that because there were less of us. We were more noticeable and we were something of a new phenomenon. Now it’s so tough... I see ten to fifteen ‘jewellery

Of course... but Australian music has always been underrated: INXS are quite possibly the worst band to make it out of Australia... AC/DC one of the finest. The list is huge... Died Pretty, Radio Birdman, The Triffids, The Go-Betweens, Birthday Party. Dig deep and it’s a rich seam of amazing talent.

But… The Saints... as Wikipedia says: “Rock music in the Seventies was changed by three bands – the Sex Pistols, the Ramones and The Saints.“

Well, we think it’s fair to say that Johnny Rocket is to jewellerymaking in the Noughties and Teenies what these iconic bands were to music in the Seventies: brave, groundbreaking, uncompromising, unique, challenging industry norms and the status quo (actually, we’ve taken to wondering what he thinks of Status Quo!) Like these bands, the Johnny Rocket philosophy is one of integrity, fierce authenticity, originality, attitude, a unique style, no compromise and always remaining true to yourself and your vision. So we say ‘Long live rock (and rocks!)’n’ roll! Go, Johnny go!’

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01/04/2015 12:24

Level of design: beginner

Tutorial

Simply beautiful

Step 1.

Cut two 90cm long pieces of beige waxed cord. Tie them with double knots leaving an excess length of 15cm.

Step 4.

Cut 50cm of blue waxed cord and fold in half. Form the cupchain into a bracelet shape and tie the blue wax cord around the beige wax cord as shown in the illustrations.

What you'll need:

90cm x2

15cm 50cm

It's surprisingly simple to create this sparkling and stylish bracelet using the Crystal Dome Bead Bracelet Kit from Swarovski® Step 2.

Take the Swarovski Cupchain and wind the waxed cord around the crystal as shown in the illustrations.

Crystal Dome Bead Bracelet Kit from Swarovski®

Repeat

Step 5.

Glu

e

Put some glue at both the ends of the cupchain and let it dry. Pull both ends of the beige cord to make a bracelet with 7cm diameter.

• Contains: 3x 11mm Crystal Dome Beads in Amethyst, 15mm Crystal Dome Bead in Crystal Bronze Shade, 2x 8mm Crystal Dome Beads in Dark Indigo, 15cm of Gold Plated Cupchain set with Crystals in Amethyst, 1.8m of Waxed Cord in Beige and 0.5m of Waxed Cord in Blue 62SWK01 £22.50

12" Steel Ruler

7cm

• Measures in inches, centimetres and millimetres 999 577 £3.60

Step 6.

Slide a Swarovski crystal onto each free end. Knot them as shown in the illustration and cut off the excess thread.

3c

Staedtler Noris Club Scissors

m

• 170mm • Pointed tip 997 479

£1.40

3.5cm

4cm

Step 3.

Once you reach the end of the cupchain, tie a double knot at the end of the waxed cord.

Araldite Standard

• Heavy duty adhesive for bonding most materials • 2x 15ml tubes 998 340 £5.02

12

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3099 The Bench Issue 8_AW 2.indd 12-13

Swarovski® is a registered trademark of Swarovski AG.

13 01/04/2015 12:24

At work.

And at play.

Let’s face it, in a strictly corporate or professional setting you don’t want anything too flamboyant or flashy but if you are stuck in a suit a stylish cufflink can show off your personality and make you stand out from the crowd.

Make a statement with a bold, graphic design or keep it subtle with a ball or knot style.

For more formal occasions, precious metals, subtle gemstones, and pearls are always a good choice.

Opt for a single piece with designs at both ends for a look that will really make an impact.

In the final analysis, though, a judicious choice of cufflinks really can transform an outfit from plain and anonymous to suave and debonair.

XVA 103

XVA 108

XVA 106

XVA 100

XVA 101

XVA 117

XVA 111 XVA 104

Jewellery for

Every occasion It’s that time of year when we shake off the cobwebs of our winter hibernation and start titivating our appearance ready to step out into the vibrant social whirl that the lighter nights and warmer weather bring! t’s the time when wedding bells start to ring of course but it’s also when our social calendar starts to fill up with events such as the Grand National, Royal Ascot and Henley Royal Regatta where the competition to be sartorial queen bee or cock of the walk is every bit as intense as that on the track or the river.

Not only that but the seasonal feel good factor means it’s also the time that we feel like sprucing ourselves up at work.

So it’s a time of renewal all round, for freshening up our look and expressing our individuality by saying ‘This is me!’

And the key to making that new look work is adding the glint and sparkle of just the right jewellery.

Cufflinks: wearing your heart on your sleeve.

Once considered the ultimate token of wealth and social status, and reserved exclusively for the upper classes, these

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days cufflinks have broken through the class barrier and are worn by everyone everywhere from the boardroom to the bar. Not only that but they come in a huge variety of styles so that you really can wear your heart, or your personality, on your sleeve.

They make a perfect gift for the dapper dad on Father’s Day, thoughtful thank you gifts for the groomsmen at a wedding, or as the finishing touch to any smart outfit.

St Christopher pendants.

There is no wrong or right time to wear cufflinks of course but there are different ways to wear your cufflinks depending on the nature of the occasion. And don’t forget that the right shirt is essential: choose one with a French or double cuff.

The finishing touch to any pair of cufflinks a beautiful presentation box.

We have many finishes to choose from, including leatherette and real wood.

994 154*

996 135

996 523W

*Cufflinks not included

FARS 1201

Even in these GPS-obsessed days, the St Christopher pendant remains as popular as ever. As the patron saint of travellers, traditionally St. Christopher was regarded as a protector and guide for those setting out VXS 208 into uncharted territory.

And the key thing about cufflinks is that, on occasions where there’s a strict dress code in force, they’re your opportunity to express your individuality in a much more subtle and stylish way than that pair of comedy socks you’ve been considering!

Call: 0845 100 1122 or 0121 200 2120 Click: cooksongold.com Visit: Birmingham + London

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994 162*

Gift boxes.

61CI IBLW

61TO FDTT

61DR HH20

And of course you’ll find the UKs biggest range of fully hallmarked wedding ring blanks, and more semi-set mounts, in the FREE Cooksongold wedding ring blank guide. Download a copy using our NEW APP today.

994 159

Rings on your fingers.

VXS 210

Whether or not actually accompanied by bells on your toes, you can create that perfect ring for a special occasion by combining semi-set mounts with your birthstone or any other gemstone that takes your fancy. Here’s a small selection to inspire you.

FBRS 1101

15 01/04/2015 12:25

Your ‘Pockets of Intrigue’ collection is based upon a very original idea. What inspired it?

The original inspiration has two main influences. The first is the idea of creating intrigue, as the pieces conceal something about the wearer, such as a love note, photograph or a lock of hair. The second was looking through old pictures of Grandad Snow who always used to wear a pocket watch or waistcoat chain!

Would you say you have lots of secrets yourself?

Now that would be telling!! But no, not really any more than anyone else I’d say!

And your pin design has been selected to commemorate the Birmingham School of Jewellery’s 125th anniversary this year? How would you describe it?

I was so surprised when my design won. I didn’t expect it! But it is a fantastic honour to have won. It is a very simple design. I took inspiration from the most iconic thing about the school: the building itself!

Having only recently graduated, you’ve made a great start. What ambitions do you have for your jewellery-making career?

We catch up with award-winning young jewellery designer Katie Snow and discover some hidden depths...

Atie, where did your jewellery-making story start and what first inspired you?

My jewellery-making journey started when I was a youngster in primary school whilst having conversations with friends about what we wanted to be when we grew up.

They would say "I want to be a doctor, a lawyer or a vet". I have this vivid memory of thinking I don’t want to be any of those... what do I like?! And the rest is history as they say. I decided

I liked jewellery so I wanted to make it! That stayed with me throughout my education.

How did your work come to be selected for the Designer Crafts Exhibition at The Mall Gallery in London? We imagine the competition was pretty fierce!

I became a member of The Society of Designer Craftsmen through exhibiting at New Designers in London where my work was assessed alongside fellow graduates of 2013. As a new member I took part in my first exhibition and apply each year to take part.

I am gradually gaining experience within the jewellery industry and I plan to slowly build up my own business to hopefully establish a recognised name within the industry as a designer maker.

I continually show at exhibitions and I would love to exhibit at The Goldsmiths' Fair one day.

What tips do you have for anyone thinking of taking the plunge with a jewellery-making course?

My advice would be enjoy it, forget your inhibitions and be open minded! Be passionate and love what you do.

Finally... you always knew we’d get back to the subject... tell us the most intriguing thing about you!

The most intriguing thing about me is...

Make a great impression

Tutorial

with

ImpressArt! Get creative with ImpressArt stamps and stamp your personality on the copper blanks to make these pretty (and pretty impressive!) earrings.

Use the stamps we’ve chosen, or else pick your favourites from the full range and let your imagination run wild!

What you'll need: Copper blanks in a shape of your choice x2 visit cooksongold.com Antique black finish plain ear hook wires x2 N2K 101B Brass 6mm jump rings x6 N2H 120 Swarovski Crystal Pack of 4 Drops 13x6.5mm Rose 62SW D06X ImpressArt Lollipop font upper case letter I

999 IA41

ImpressArt swirl stamps, two sizes 999 IA31 / 999 IA32

Step 2: Stamp the interior of the blank in a random pattern using two sizes of swirl stamps.

Step 5: Remove the excess paint and polish the pieces with the polishing pads.

Step 3: Use the 1/16” side of the 2-hole punch to punch holes in blank at the top, bottom and two bottom sides.

Step 6: Create beaded dangles with head pins and beads. Connect the beaded dangles to the blank with jump rings.

Step 4: Apply the paint on the stamped areas of the blanks using your finger tip, a cotton swab, or a small paint brush.

Wipe off immediately with the paper towel.

Step 7: Attach the earring wires to the top of the blanks. Repeat steps for both earrings.

Brass stamping hammer 997 3135 Steel stamping block

999 793

ImpressArt 2-hole punches, small 999 IA68 Coordinating acrylic paint Paint brush

870 614

Paper towel Polishing pads

999 SS01

Katie, you tease! Intriguing stuff indeed!

Katie’s 'Pockets of Intrigue' collection

Step 1: Stamp around the outer edge of the petal blanks with the “I” from the Lollipop font set.

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Product feature

Peter Johns

Argentium Silver is now available for all your jewellery-making projects from cooksongold.com in round, square, rectangular and D shape wire, solder wire, casting grain and sheet.

It’s fair to say that the development of Argentium silver represents a truly historic breakthrough in the history of precious metals, in formulating a material with properties that significantly improve in every way upon those of traditional sterling silver.

rgentium inventor and leading silversmith Peter Johns takes up the story...

“The Argentium project started with a phone call to my office at Middlesex University from a French mining company who were exploring new uses for some of their special metals. They were attracted to Middlesex University because they thought the design work and materials used by our jewellery students were very innovative. Therefore they considered we might also be more open to exploring metals like germanium.

“It was a question from a student about the problems of firestain in sterling silver that sparked it off. I started to think over all I knew about firestain. Suddenly I had a thought based on some initial experiments with germanium... could it possibly prevent firestain?”

And the rest, as they say, is history: the result, combining silver with germanium and christened ‘Argentium’ from the Latin for silver, being a unique formulation, high quality sterling silver alloy, available in grades 935 and 960,

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with significantly improved properties over traditional silver.

Setting a whole new standard in silver.

Setting wholly new purity standards for silver, Argentium is naturally beautiful, tarnish- and firestain-resistant, requires no plating and so reduced time spent on the bench.

Argentium is brighter and whiter than platinum, white gold and traditional sterling as well as being more durable than traditional silver, producing items that are low maintenance, easy to care for and simple to clean: perfect for everyday jewellery.

Argentium is hypoallergenic and antibacterial too making it the perfect choice for those who are unable to wear traditional silver.

A brighter material, a brighter future.

As Peter explains: “Argentium silver offers consumers a material whose

Call: 0845 100 1122 or 0121 200 2120 Click: cooksongold.com Visit: Birmingham + London

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performance is far better than standard sterling. It also offers craftsmen and manufacturers an alloy that will allow them to innovate, both in their design work and by using the branding support of Argentium.

“Argentium silver will continue to develop and I am sure we have not yet discovered all of its possibilities.

Through innovation Argentium has stimulated competition in the industry. I hope the competition and innovation will drive the industry to better prosperity and a better future.”

The fact is that, having made its initial impact in the States, Argentium is currently taking the world by storm affording silversmiths globally the opportunity to create more beautiful, more lasting and more user-friendly works of art.

As the manufacturers say, look for the Argentium mark of authenticity, the flying unicorn: a distinctive mark of unrivalled quality.

The Cooksongold range of Argentium silver is in stock, ready to use and ready to order today.

19 01/04/2015 12:25

Jewellery with

spirit

now if it wasn't for my gifts as they have got me out of some very dangerous situations.

Which stones do you find have the most potency in your work?

Labradorite and Moonstone are my favourite gemstones... visually stunning, full of iridescence, and very unique. I use them a lot in my pieces.

They have helped others and helped me to get through some difficult times in my life with poor health. They have also helped me to see people for who they truly are... I always know what people are like when I meet them.

Labradorite is highly mystical, magical and protective and Moonstone is a beautiful, feminine stone with a truly calming influence.

What is the particular attraction of gemstones for you?

We brave the March winds on Brighton beach to interview jewellery designer and spiritual healer Sharon Philogene and come away with a fascinating back story... not to mention the elixir of love!

i Sharon, what came first... a passion for healing or an interest in jewellery?

From an early age I loved jewellery.

In the 70s my mum and dad kept chickens, ducks, geese and goats in our back garden in Solihull, Birmingham.

I remember making brooches from chicken feathers, cotton thread and a pin when I was around eight... I used to give them to my friends at school.

But I never pursued it as a career until I was in my 40s and even then it just happened as a by-product of being interested in semiprecious gemstones which came from a crystal healing course I completed in 2007.

You say you were born with gifts. How have these gifts helped you through life?

Well, gifts run in my family from my mother’s side... my grandmother had them and my aunt. Sometimes a gift can seem more like of a curse than a gift.

But I definitely would not be alive right

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I love the vibrant colours, patterns and the energy they emit, they are all completely different from each other and they are all so unique. You will never find one gemstone that's identical to another, so even if you are using the same gemstone a lot, no two pieces will ever look the same.

We’re guessing that for you gemstones are about much more than just looking pretty in your jewellery?

Yes they are. Obviously you want them to look pretty in a piece of jewellery but the other important aspect for me is the vibrational frequency. Each gemstone emits a different energy which works on different levels of the physical, etheric body and mental body. Each gemstone has properties to heal specific diseases and they also protect you from negative energy. Quartz for example is the Master Healer absorbing, storing, releasing and regulating energy and drawing off negative energy.

How do you use gemstones in your healing activities?

With crystal healing I would find out the problems the patient has, then choose the gemstones specifically for them, then place the stones on and around them.

In my jewellery pieces I choose the gemstone for a particular problem and, once the piece is made, imbue it with healing energy as I am an Accredited Spiritual Healer.

And how did you get started in jewellery making?

A friend of mine made some beaded bracelets and I thought I could do that!

So I started with that and after about 6 months moved onto wire wrapping.

I loved it because the better I got at it the more intricate my pieces became.

Then the next step was learning silversmithing. I looked up online what I would need to buy and just had a go with no instructions.

Meet the designer -Sharon Philogene I am completely self-taught.

I have learnt everything I know from just doing it! I have always had the attitude of just give it a go and see what happens and I'm proud of that.

Where do you get the inspiration for your pieces?

A lot of my inspiration comes from my meditations and the stones themselves.

I see beautiful pieces of jewellery in my meditation and I try to create what I see.

Sometimes I'm able to and other times I'm not, as my skills haven't reached that level yet. I also get inspiration from where I live along the coast here in Brighton. My flat has a sea view and recently I created the ‘Erosion Collection’ inspired by the sea and pebble beach.

I called it ‘Erosion’ because of the ebb and flow of the waves and how they shape our coastline.

Are your pieces all bespoke, made for specific individuals?

I do feel the pieces are made for someone and that someone will find it and buy it even if it hasn't been made for them.

I do make bespoke pieces for individuals but I prefer to let the energy flow and let my creativity take the piece where it wants to go.

How do you go about matching a piece with the person it’s designed for?

Mostly people have an idea of what they want and I create that for them, but when someone wants me to design something for them and they give me free rein I use my gifts to come up with a design.

Any tips for anyone considering a career like yours? We imagine you would need to be born with a special gift for it?

Actually anyone can learn to channel healing energy but you would need to have a desire to help people.

I was born with a natural gift for healing but I still had to complete a two-year course to become an Accredited Spiritual Healer so that I could legally give healing to a patient. So anyone can become a healer. I would suggest they look for a course in their area.

As for the silversmithing, you could do what I have done and give it a go yourself, or do a silversmithing course at a local college, then combine the two.

You’re based in the bohemian enclave of Brighton... do you find the atmosphere there conducive to the work that you do?

Yes, Brighton is a very vibrant and creative place to live with bustling streets full of very different characters!

How important has Cooksongold been over the years in supplying you with materials and advice?

Cooksongold has been wonderful!

Knowing that I can order some supplies and have them delivered next day is a great help. I buy a lot of silver and tools from them. I recently purchased an expensive Durston Rolling Mill and love it so much as I am now able to pattern my silver myself.

And finally Sharon... can you say which crystal you might recommend for your humble interviewer?

I'm going to recommend Rose Quartz for you as I feel this is the crystal that you need right now. It’s often called the ‘Love Stone’, a stone of unconditional love that opens the heart chakra to all forms of love! It really is a very soothing and happy stone.

Thank you Sharon for sharing your spiritual inspiration with us.

21 01/04/2015 12:25

Level of design: beginner

Step 4: Forming the third loop To form the final loop of the link, position your pliers with the large jaw on the same side of the wire as the first loop.

4b

make a round loop using the smaller jaw of the bail making pliers. Holding your pliers with the larger jaw facing towards you, place the loop in the jaw of the pliers making sure that the loop is touching the larger jaw.

8b

6c

Summer in

sorrento

What you'll need: Wubbers bail making pliers 997 104W

Silver wire Silver jump rings

HSA 100 NVH0 0150

Narrow flat nose pliers

999 695

Chain nose pliers

999 3050

Heavy duty flush cutters

Our step-by-step tutorial makes it a doddle to create a beautiful Sorrento scroll bracelet that's perfect for those long hot summer days (if we ever get any).

Step 1: Flush cutting your wire Work directly off the full length of wire and flush cut one end of the wire using the flush cutters.

999 795

Planishing hammer

997 3112

2

Dome faced chasing hammer

997 3113

Metal barrelling starter kit with 3lb machine 999 600K

Find more wonderful Wubbers in stock on our website

Step 2: Formatting the first loop of the link Grip the end of the wire between the jaws of the bail making pliers. Make sure that the wire is not extended beyond the jaws of your pliers to ensure that the loop you form is round, rather than teardrop shaped. Form a loop around the larger jaw of the pliers, adjusting the position of the jaws on the wire as needed to comfortably complete the first loop.

3a

4c

Step 3: Forming the second loop Place the larger jaw of your pliers right next to the first loop. Rotate the wire around the small jaw, continuing for 1 ½ revolutions to complete the second loop.

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5 Step 7: The clasp – forming the small loop With the larger jaw of the pliers closest to you, grip the wire so that the jaws are even with the edge of the first loop.

Rotate the pliers away from you, rolling the wire around the smaller jaw forming a single loop.

Step 5: Trimming the third loop Flush cut the wire as close to where it crosses itself as possible then use your flat nose pliers to close the loop. This is your completed link. Repeat this step until you have produced seven links.

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7b

Step 10: Preparing the links Arrange all the links and the clasp on your work surface so that the loops are turned with all cut sides in the same direction (i.e. the cut ends of each link facing in the same direction). The hook should also be turned in the same direction as the links.

11

6a

3c

6b

Step 8: The clasp – finishing With the smaller jaw of the pliers closest to you, grip the wire and rotate towards you to form the loop as in previous steps. Flush cut the wire as close to where it crosses as possible, then use your flat nose pliers to close the loop to produce the finished clasp.

8a

4a

Step 6: The clasp – forming the hook Flush cut the end of the wire, and then

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Roll the pliers away from you, forming the wire around the smaller jaw of the pliers to make a hook.

7a

3b

997 3005

Steel block

Rotate the wire around the large jaw of the pliers, crossing it under itself so that the loop is closed.

Step 9: Hammering and texturing the links Use the curved face of the planishing hammer to widen and flatten the link, adding texture at the same time. If using the dome faced chasing hammer, flatten the link using the larger face and then the balled end to add texture. Repeat for each link and the clasp. Once done, use your bail making pliers to add a slight curve to each link to make the bracelet lie nicely on the wrist.

Step 11: Connect the links and clasp Join each of the links and attach the clasp with two jump rings, making sure to connect the links with the right side turned in the same direction.

Step 12: Adjusting the size of the hook If you find that the loop on the hook is slightly larger than will fit through the appropriate link on the opposite end of the bracelet, you can adjust it by flush cutting a tiny piece of silver off the loop.

Step 13: The final touch Your bracelet is now finished and ready to wear. If you like, you can add extra sparkle and a silky smooth feel to your Sorrento scroll bracelet by polishing in a tumbler with the shot and burnishing compound.

23 01/04/2015 12:25

The Bench is now online!

Visit cooksongold.com/blog

Regularly updated with even more articles, stepby-step guides and jewellery-making advice.

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It’s the perfect way to shop and browse products on your smartphone or tablet, whenever and wherever you choose.

Browse our catalogues right now: • Latest offers • Interesting features Download now for

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