The
Feel Good Issue!
Looking good on the outside, feeling good on the inside A jewellery brand that lets you give something back
Stylish Swarovski bracelet tutorial • The beauty of Luxi • Five-star Vallorbe files The new Fairtrade gold scheme for micro-jewellers • Meet some of our Review Team Call: 0845 100 1122 Click: cooksongold.com Visit: Birmingham + London
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30/07/2014 15:52
Look in with Lisa
issue 7 Summer 2014
Welcome to the Feel Good Issue of The Bench!
Contents
ooking good feeling good! When it comes to jewellery making, it’s all about the detail. Choosing the right file, getting the right finish, and for the more ethically conscious customers, picking jewellery that fits in with their values. As well as our key interview with ethical jewellery brand Chavin, we’re really pleased to bring you details of the new Fairtrade gold scheme that means that even smaller jewellery makers can now easily obtain and use Fairtrade gold in their pieces!
10 Tutorial
18 Video review team
Lights! Camera! Jewellery! Find out all about our review team
20 Vallorbe files and sawblades
04 Trend Watch
We take a look at trend perennials that are blooming this season
06 Chavin
We talk ancient civilisations, and making a difference in Peru
10 Swarovski tutorial
Practice, practice, practice... we discuss the fine art of hand engraving
16 Chain guide
Get the lowdown on different types and unchain your imagination
Fairtrade gold
23
Our guide to achieving the perfect finish
Call now and speak with one of our helpful sales advisors:
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When you are finished with this magazine please pass it on to a friend or neighbour, or recycle it. Ta :)
Mark Phelps
14
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2413 The Bench issue 7_AW.indd 2-3
Our intrepid reporters made the trek down to the exotic climes of SW3, to talk Peruvian culture, and ethical jewellery, with Simon Ogilvie-Harris, the Managing Director of Chavin jewellery. In this revealing interview we find out about how Chavin is ‘giving back’ to local Peruvians working in their stateof-the-art facility, including their involvement with the charity SOS Children. Inspirational!
999 096Q
£74.99
22 Cooksongold scrap service
Find our how we’ve made cashing in on your scrap even easier
23 Fairtrade gold
A new scheme helping small scale miners and micro-jewellers
Workbench Tool Kit
997 1003
£77.00
The
Feel Good Issue!
Fairtrade that’s fair for all concerned!
At last, Fairtrade gold and silver really are what they say on the tin: fair! That is, fair to smallscale miners and fair to small jewellers too. Because the Fairtrade Foundation’s unique new scheme enables small jewellers, goldsmiths, silversmiths and artists, and their customers, for the first time to choose, and use, ethicallysourced Fairtrade gold and silver. After all, small jewellers are the bedrock of our industry so it’s only fair that they should benefit from an ethical initiative that’s gained enormous traction with jewellery consumers in recent years.
Summer perennials
Make this stylish and simple bracelet
Trade Counters: 59-83 Vittoria Street Birmingham B1 3NZ
Your essential guide to choosing and using the right tool for the job
14 Mark Phelps
12 Luxi polishing compounds
2
Starter Soldering Kit
Journey to ancient civilisations
Chavin
6 of the best...KITS
visit cooksongold.com for the full range
There are some trends that come and go, and we’ve always got our eye out for what’s new in the world of jewellery. But there are some classic trends that are reinterpreted and ‘made new’ season after season, and here we give you our
pick of the best. One big trend is pearls, but believe us, these aren’t your mother’s pearls!
Get involved
We love your opinions, and so do other customers! As well as our online review system (check it out when you’re next on Cooksongold.com), customers are queuing up to become part of our exciting new Review Team! Those chosen to become part of the team are asked to test out and create a video review about selected brand new products. It’s simple, fun and best of all you get to keep what you test! Enjoy the magazine, and your jewellery making!
Editor
And our last issue’s lucky winner is...
Epoxy Enamel Starter Kit 860 031A £29.99
Sterling Silver Findings Starter Kit NVA 100 £42.40
Pebeo Fantasy Prisme Workbox • Pack of 10 45ml glazes 870 501 £25.75
...Mrs Gilli Seymour of Cambridgeshire who won this jewellery hamper with £2000 worth of Cooksongold goodies.
What a wonderful and unexpected surprise, thank you. I had to read your email several times to take it in! Now turn to the back page to be in with a chance to win a £350 hamper of jewellery making goodies
Art Clay Basic Kit
855 061
£15.79
Please note that all prices in this magazine are intended as a guide only and are subject to change. These are cash prices and are exclusive of VAT. Sizes, images and measurements are approximate and variations may occur.
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I
t th e JUST a ow T NO t’s er S h a F low Chelse avourite rf that ou ls come ia perenn ear. a f t er y t h e r a e y b a ck rue of me is t fashion a s e h T leading il e world’s . Because, wh o to may shows trends are t n e i s tran t h er e nd go, a that e m o c assics l c e h t always k every year, ac es h ed come b eted and refr pr reinter ter season. s e a s on
af
Black Monochrome Jewellery Boxes 996 701B - 996 707B £1.12 - £6.10
THE MONOCHROME SET. This year’s monochrome styles hark back to the Swinging Sixties and the eye-popping designs of pop art! This season’s bold take on the subject manifests itself in the form of giant 60s-style geometric plastic earrings and vibrant houndstooth patterns.
PEARLS ARE BIG THIS SUMMER. VERY BIG IN FACT! This year pearls are big. In every sense of the word too!
You can bring this dramatic and exciting trend to life in your jewellery-making with these stunning presentation boxes:
Forget the dowager duchess with her prim twinset and understated necklace, this is pearls big and bold with a capital P!
White Monochrome Jewellery Boxes
This year pearls are also showing all their true colours, from pretty dusky pinks and milky browns to the deep blues, greens, greys and purples of ‘black pearls’.
996 701W - 996 707W
£1.12 - £6.10
The beautiful Blossom Collection (1) from Yoko London, revealed for the first time at Baselworld earlier this year, combines large pink freshwater pearls and diamonds for a stunningly refined and elegant look. Also spotted at Baselworld was the amazing Mikimoto Sun and Clouds pearl necklace.
Jayden Floyd
Summer perennials in full bloom once again! Sailko
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Filigree too is back. Not that it ever went away of course!
Silver Rose Pearl 3 Row Chain VPM 075P £30.50
Filigree jewellery is actually a very ancient art form that’s been incorporated into jewellery since around 3,000 BC.
Here are a few suggestions on how you can bring some pearly elegance to your own jewellery-making creations: Sterling Silver Heart Locket With Diamond Curve Feature VPS 2022 £11.68
XPM P305
7th century Italian eum
Silver White Freshwater Button Pearl Earrings XPM P102 £6.01
Walters Art Mus
Silver White Button Pearl Earrings
£4.17
Sterling Silver Freshwater Pearl Set VPM 250 £18.72 Cultured Multicolour Fresh Water Pearls 61PL F074 £18.50
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Silver White Freshwater Button Pearl Pendant VPS P102 £3.51 Cultured Peach/Pink Fresh Water Pearls 61PL F071 £16.50
Call: 0845 100 1122 Click: cooksongold.com Visit: Birmingham + London
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IT’S BACK TO THE FUTURE WITH FILIGREE.
18 30s French filigree bracelet
Silver Filigree Heart Locket VPS 2055
A number of ancient examples from Italy are preserved in the Louvre and in the British Museum, where you can also find some beautiful examples of mediaeval and Anglo Saxon filigree work.
£17.43
These classic filigree lockets are a quick and easy way to introduce an element of filigree into your jewellery-making:
Tiny beads or twisted threads of precious metal, usually gold or silver, are soldered together into delicate designs that usually create a lace-like effect. This year, filigree is very much in evidence on cuffs and rings and especially on necklaces. Dolce and Gabbana, as you would expect, has its own very distinctive luxuriously OTT take on this most ancient of crafts with a remarkable rosary style necklace.
Silver Filigree Locket Set VPS 2054
£30.04
Silver Filigree Heart Locket Style Pendant VPS 2053
£18.80
5 30/07/2014 15:52
Interview
The Star Collection is inspired by the ancient Peruvian goddess of dawn and twilight
The only way is “Charity is one of the most satisfying things that anyone can be a part of. I love it and hope to make a difference now and in the future.”
We catch up with Simon Ogilvie-Harris, the disconcertingly young Managing Director of hot ethical jewellery brand Chavin. That’s Chavin pronounced ‘Shaveeen’ by the way...
Rose gold and sterling silver vanity bracelet
ne day in June, in unseasonably muggy weather more in keeping with the Peruvian rain forest than downtown SW3, your tireless Bench explorers took pith helmet in hand to track down Simon Ogilvie-Harris, MD and youthful mastermind behind the Chavin jewellery brand at Jewellery & Watch London in the imposing surroundings of the Saatchi Gallery on the Kings Road.
for three years with Goldman Sachs. But obviously that wasn’t a great place to be when the banking crisis hit so I started looking around for an alternative business opportunity. I started off selling handmade Peruvian jewellery at trade shows out of the back of a van then decided to start branding it properly... It’s a real family business. My brother Jeremy is in charge of the marketing for the brand and we’ve enjoyed enormous support from our mother.
When I was young, my family travelled all over the world, but I had never come across the Chavin culture until later in my life during a trip to Peru and I was naturally interested in discovering all I could about the Peruvian culture.
Well, the Chavin culture is actually the ancient Peruvian culture, from around 2000 years before the Inca. They are not as well-known as the Inca, and in fact not a great deal is known about the Chavin people compared to some of the other great civilizations of that time. The reason is that their art was very mystical: it was only intended for the priests to be able to interpret and understand. So this was a great inspiration for us. Chavin is a brand that is unique in the way that we’re making it accessible, bringing this mystical beauty into everyday life.
Simon, Chavin jewellery is obviously inspired by the ancient Chavin civilization of Peru. When did you first become aware of it?
If you don’t mind us saying so, you still appear to be very young to have so successful a brand behind you. Well, I was born in Canada then went to boarding school in the UK and on to Newcastle University, then Cass Business School where I did a Master’s and then went into banking
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We’re all familiar with the Incas of Machu Picchu but perhaps less so with the Chavin. Why did you choose the Chavin as the inspiration for the brand?
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2413 The Bench issue 7_AW.indd 6-7
Jewellery inspired by Chavin culture
7 30/07/2014 15:52
Which aspects of the culture did you find particularly inspiring? Well, obviously their art. Their art mirrors their mythology as in many ancient civilizations. Chavin sculptures often have religiously significant animals carved into them along with other shapes and patterns. Not only that but the Chavin believed in co-dependence and pacifism so their culture seemed a perfect fit. While they were also the first people in the region to work with fine materials such as gold and silver so there’s a particular relevance there for jewellery. The Chavin’s principal temple is at a place called White Mountain where two rivers meet to form a triangle. Much of the inspiration behind the brand comes from this very sacred place.
The ‘Star Collection’ is inspired by the ancient Peruvian goddess of the dawn and the twilight. Would you say that Chavinian culture was quite unique in the ancient world in the way it focuses on femininity? It’s not so much that it focuses on femininity but rather more that it focuses on the equality of male and female. That’s why we love the Chavin culture so much, because no matter which god it is, all are equal under the ruling Jaguar god which is a combination of the elegance of a lady and the brute force of a man. So the jaguar equally represents both genders which will make the jaguar icon equally relevant for launching a men’s range in the future.
originally encountered in Peru. Through this partnership Chavin re-invests into Peruvian communities and families.
With all of your jewellery being made out there in Peru it must be a great feeling to be giving back in some way to the culture that inspired it? It is a really great feeling. The sort of thing that gives you a warm sensation inside and I feel as though I am making a difference to something that is so integral to my business.
Who exactly are the people who make the jewellery?
We craft our jewellery in Peru working with a state-of- the-art manufacturing facility which is committed to the strictest environmental and ethical policies. 60% of the workers are women, and the company Women on a jewellery-making provides life insurance and course at the health checks for its employees. Luz Y Vida
A child minding programme run by SOS Children
community centre
Do they see the Chavin people as their distant relatives? The Chavin culture is greatly revered by all Peruvians.
What is your relationship with the SOS children’s charity?
Ancient Chavin art celebrates the feline form and we see that you’ve carried that through with your extensive use of the jaguar motif. Does the jaguar have a particular symbolic significance in Chavin culture? It lies at the very heart of Chavin culture. In the Andes, the jaguar is the most powerful beast and has always filled the inhabitants there with a sense of awe. This led the Chavin civilization to respect this majestic animal, basing a large part of its religion upon it. The character of this feline god is associated with the sun, fire, rain, water, fertility, earth and celestial deities and our new 2-year strategy for the brand is very much focused upon these seven different spirits that are associated with the jaguar god. In fact, the jaguar head is the basis and image of our brand and we set out to capture all of these elements in our collections, such as the new Leaf Collection which symbolises fertility and growth, and we like to think it works in the same mystical way as the ancient Chavin priests: helping the wearer to grow in all aspects of their life.
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‘Style with a conscience’ is a very bold, arresting and unique brand positioning. How does that conscience primarily manifest itself? We add value to the people and economy of Peru by sourcing our raw materials and manufacturing in a country whose jewellery industry, compared to say Asia, is tiny. Then we give back to the community there from the whole company by donating 2% of all sales. In fact, we started giving back from day one even when we were making no money ourselves. Since its inception Chavin jewellery has also fostered an innovative partnership with a UK children's charity, SOS Children, through which donations find their way directly to the needy causes I had
“Through the purchase of Chavin jewellery, we allow our customers to become an integral part of the philanthropic effort and empower the women of Peru with these donations.”
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2413 The Bench issue 7_AW.indd 8-9
A range of coloured caring bracelets was launched in coordination with SOS Children. Each coloured bracelet represents, and is named after, an actual mother in the Luz y Vida family strengthening programme in Lima. Here the mothers are supported by donations from the sale of each item of jewellery purchased. They are taught skills which will make themselves and their families economically self-sufficient. The classes teach single mothers to create commercial costume jewellery out of plastic pearls and metal filaments to help them secure additional income to improve the quality of life for themselves and their children. We wanted to connect with the mothers through the brand. We already had a charitable partnership and thought our customers would want to have a more personal connection with the mothers and families they help. We maintain close ties with the Embassy of Peru here in London and our ultimate objective would be to establish a jewellery school out there in Peru.
And with every ‘caring bracelet’ sold you make a donation to their families? Actually for every item of jewellery we sell, we give a donation to SOS children’s charity.
Have you had any feedback about how your customers feel about
making such a unique personal connection with the families? It must be even more powerful when you know the names of the people you’re helping? A few of our customers have given us feedback. One said: “It’s so great buying pretty jewellery and at the same time helping out.” The point is that we all can feel good and get that ‘warm sensation’ because we are making a difference and not exploiting the world.
What’s been the most satisfying thing about the charity work you’ve done out there in Peru? When I first went to visit the mothers we help in Peru, once I’d been introduced they came up to me and thanked me, giving me a gift of jewellery as a token of their gratitude. I was so overwhelmed. I just love that we make such a difference to these mothers’ lives. Charity is one of the most satisfying things that anyone can be a part of. I love it and hope to make a difference now and in the future.
We see that some notable celebrities have picked up on the brand. Do you sense that there’s a genuine impulse in society these days to ‘give something back’? It’s actually a willing decision because people like to make a difference and give something back: they feel good about it. My brother Jeremy and I are serial networkers so we use all of our contacts. But the great thing is that the celebrities who wear our jewellery do so not because we pay them anything but because they love it!
What materials are used in Chavin jewellery? Oxidised sterling silver and rose gold
vermeil on sterling silver. We use semiprecious stones such as turquoise and sodalite as well as precious stones like sapphires and rubies.
Presumably they’re indigenous to the area too? Yes. Our silver and gold is all from Peru. Peru is the world’s sixth largest producer of gold and the second largest producer of silver. These materials have always been deeply embedded in Peruvian culture from the prehistoric civilisations to the Chavin right through to the Incas and now I feel that we are carrying on the tradition in bringing it to the UK and Europe, educating and enlightening our customers with the stories and tales of ancient Peru!
Chavin is a very young brand. How have you achieved so much so soon? I never thought we would be where we are when I started. I think the biggest help has been my family along with my own personal drive. When I have ever wavered, my family was there to rekindle the fire in my heart and push me to take Chavin to the next level.
We hear that global expansion is next on the agenda? How exciting is the prospect of taking Chavin to the world? It’s extremely exciting. Since day one we have had the dream of becoming a global company. It is now happening!
What is your personal favourite Chavin piece and why? My favourite piece is the Circular Jaguar Filigree Bracelet. This was one of our first pieces and it really is a symbol of all our hard work. But that’s not all. It is also beautifully designed: chic, dainty, fashionable. It captures the spirit of
the Chavin culture. As I said before, the jaguar was essentially revered as a god. And this special piece, like all our collections, is not just a beautiful design but also carries with it a story – a meaning.
Any tips for jewellery makers starting to make their way in a fiercely competitive field? The best piece of advice I would give to anyone starting out is to believe in what you are doing and be passionate about it. It is tough in today’s climate so it is essential to stay positive and focus on where you want to be and do not allow others to distract you. It is also all about creating great designs as well as good quality Born: pieces of jewellery! 1983
Finally and just for fun… what car do you drive? We’re guessing it’s a Jaguar!
I don’t have a car but I do get the pleasure sometimes of driving a white van around. Just like in the old days! Not quite what you were expecting I suppose...
Studied: Cass Business School First job: Goldman Sachs Founded Chavin: 2011 Team: Simon, Jeremy and Sheila Ogilvie-Harris.
Thank you, Simon. We think it’s fair to say that very little of the above is what we were expecting in fact! The Chavin brand is truly unique in the way that it takes its inspiration from, and gives back to, the culture. A thought-provoking interview indeed demonstrating that ethics and firmly-held principles really can exist cheek by jowl with commercial success in the world of contemporary jewellery-making.
9 30/07/2014 15:52
STEP 2 1 STEP STEP 2
Tutorial
Level of design: Beginner
What you'll need:
Step 1. STEP 2 STEP 2
Swarovski Elements round beads More colours and sizes available online
WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM STEP 2
STEP 2
WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM
The Substance of Style, step-by-step
WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM
Jet
Step 2.
STEP 2
• 8mm • Pack of 6 62SW629X £2.20
x2 x2
STEP 3 STEP 3
x2 x2 STEP 3 STEP 3
STEP 3
Indian Pink
2/5
STEP 5 STEP 5
STEP 3 We think you’ll agree that the Substance of Style bracelet made with Swarovski Elements is really rather, well, stylish. Here are some easy step-by-step instructions on how to make it yourself using the finest Swarovski Elements and basic findings. STEP 4
• 8mm • Pack of 6 62SW626X £2.20
2/5
x2 x2
STEP 3
Step 3.
Indian Sapphire
2/5
x2
• 8mm • Pack of 6 62SW625X £2.20
x2
Purple Velvet
STEP 5
• 8mm • Pack of 6 62SW642X £2.20
WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM
Step 4.
WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM
STEP 4
Amethyst
STEP 5 STEP 5
WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM STEP 4
• 8mm • Pack of 6 62SW601X £2.20
WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM
STEP 4
x2 STEP 4 WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM
STEP 4 x2 STEP 5 STEP 5 STEP 6 WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM
Step 5.
Siam
STEP 8 STEP 8
x2 Repeat STEP steps 6 2-5 x13
repeat steps 2 - 5 x13:
STEP 4
STEP 6
x2 x2 x2
Repeat steps 2-5 x13
repeat steps 2 - 5 x13:
Step 6. x2
x2 WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM
4.5mm
N2H 101S £0.95
STEP 9
STEP 6 STEP 6
8.8mm
N2H 105S £1.48
repeat steps 2 - 5 x13: Repeat steps 2-5 x13 repeat steps 2 - 5 x13:
10.0mm
3 /5
Repeat steps 2-4 repeat steps 2-
N2H 106S £3.07
STEP 8
WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM
STEP 7
Repeat steps 2-5 x13 repeat Repeat steps 2-5steps x13 2 - 5 x13:
• Silver plated • Pack of 100 3 /5
Repeat steps 2-5 x13
WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM
STEP 6 STEP 6
3 /5 3 /5
3 /5
STEP 8
Step 7.
Round Jump Rings More sizes available online
3 /5
repeat steps 2 - 5 x13:
STEP 7
Bolt Rings
4
• 9mm • Silver plated • Pack of 10 N2D 103S £0.84
WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM
repeat steps 2 - 5 x13:
Repeatsteps steps2-4 Repeat steps repeat 22-4 -4
STEP 8
STEP 9
STEP 8
STEP 7 STEP 7
Step 8.
STEP Repeat 9 steps 2-4 repeat steps 2-4
WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM 4/5
4/5 Repeat steps 2-4 repeat steps 2 -
STEP 7 STEP 7
4
Repeat steps 2-4 repeat steps 2-
WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM
4
Flat Nose Pliers • 110mm
4/5 WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM
4
999 3702 £4.90
STEP 9
Repeat steps 2-4 repeat2-4 steps 2Repeat steps repeat steps 2-4
Step 9.
• 8mm • Pack of 6 62SW654X £2.20
3 /5
Repeat steps 2-5 x13
STEP 7
STEP 9 STEP 9
4/5
WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM
4/5
Stainless Steel Tweezers • Standard size
999 985 £2.10
WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM
10
Call: 0845 100 1122 Click: cooksongold.com Visit: Birmingham + London
4/5
11
4/5
5 /5
2413 The Bench issue 7_AW.indd 10-11
5 /5
5 /5
30/07/2014 15:52
1st stage polishing: scratch removal Aggressive, for highly scratched material
2nd stage polishing: final lustre
For material in good condition
For when a standard finish is desired
For when a rouge-like finish is desired
For when a mirror finish is required (ideal for preelectroplating)
Normal speed (3,000rpm)
1st stage scratch removal for bristle brushes
All-in-one polish and lustre
Low speed or hand polish
Gold
£4.89
Super Fine White £9.99
Rouge Red • 250g 997 431
Brass
£8.99
High Lustre Orange
Bronze
• 250g 997 432
Stainless steel
(And it’s not just the beauty!)
• 230g 997 429
• 250g 997 430
Silver
The beauty of LUXI POLISHING COMPOUNDS
Universal Blue
£9.99
Aggressive Yellow
Platinum
• 300g 997 433
Titanium
£5.99
Aggressive Grey
Plastics
• 250g 997 434
Veneer
£4.49
Fine Pink
No matter how beautiful your jewellery creations, they can always be let down by a finish that’s less than perfect. But fear not! Our guide to polishing compounds will help you ensure that you achieve an effect that’s both beautiful and totally sympathetic to your design.
ou can achieve a whole variety of different finishes by using finishing compounds in conjunction with buffs and polishing tools so it really is important to select the right compound for any job as it’s the compound itself, of course, rather than the buff, that does all the work. This will ensure just the finish you’re looking for, whether it’s a high polish shine, a brushed finish or a combination of finishes on a more complex design. But the beauty of Luxi polishing compounds doesn’t end there.
Beauty that’s more than skin deep
The beauty of Luxi polishing compounds doesn’t just lie in the fact that they produce the most beautiful finish. As an alumina oxide abrasive in a water-soluble binder, they’re also water-based and animal fat- and silica-free, making them safe to use and easy to clean up. While, if you’re a vegetarian or vegan or simply concerned about animal welfare, you won’t want to consider anything else.
Animal fat-free
•M eans they work at a lower temperature than animal fat based-compounds, which helps them stay on the buff so you don’t need to use as much during polishing. • They don’t create as much residue as animal fat-based compounds making them much
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2413 The Bench issue 7_AW.indd 12-13
easier to clean off and so less time spent in your ultrasonic cleaner and only a quick soap and water rinse for your hands!
Silica-free
•T his avoids the metal losses during the polishing process associated with silica, particularly with silver. • Luxi compounds can be used early in the polishing process instead of sandpaper which can cause metal loss. •L uxi compounds use a simple two step process: scratch removal and final lustre. • It really is easy to see which Luxi product you need to achieve your desired effect. The chart above makes it easier still...
Tips for a tip top finish
• Use a separate buff for each compound. • Protect any stone as the abrasive compounds will affect the shape and shine. We’d recommend 30 seconds at 40°C in an ultrasonic cleaner to remove any residue. • Although the residue is safe, it goes without saying that you should always use the appropriate safety equipment. Versatile, beautiful, easy to use, safe and great for producing a multitude of gorgeous finishes, that’s the beauty of Luxi! As they say, what’s not to like?
• 275g 997 435
£4.59
Low Speed Green • 270g 997 436
£4.99
Very Aggressive Black • 240g 997 437
£4.66
Low Speed Purple • 275g 997 438
£7.59
First Stage Brown • 220g 997 439
£2.78
Final Lustre Beige • 235g 997 440
£3.58
Starter Set of 9 Mini Compounds 997 443 £10.99 13 30/07/2014 15:53
Day in the life
Mark Phelps engraving at his bench
Try engraving!
and wedding rings, I have engraved more individual one off items such as a portrait of Jimi Hendrix on a guitar plectrum and also a set of belt buckles for the Olympic showjumping team. How important are the Celtic influences in your work? I find Celtic influences very helpful when designing new patterns particularly for hand engraving bagpipes, which I do for a manufacturer in Scotland who exports them all over the world. How do you approach the design process of hand engraving? I liaise directly with customers to ensure that the design meets with their expectations. If a design pattern is too intricate, it doesn't always reproduce so well onto a small piece of jewellery, so it's all about advising people and building relationships.
Striking the right
Not really. Over the past 12 months I have had a large increase in requests for seal engraving and heraldic crests. I believe the signet ring is back in fashion. People want to have something that shows their family history.
For leading UK hand engraver Mark Phelps, engraving is really like practicing to play a musical instrument. While one of his more unusual commissions involved a certain Jimi Hendrix...
You teach apprenticeships at one of the leading Jewellery Schools in the country. What are the three most important principles?
Perseverance, practice and patience... Hand engraving is a fine art and I always say that it is like playing a musical instrument. To get the tune right you have to play that song over and over again. So practice, practice, practice! Celtic influenced patterns on a bagpipe bass plate
The quality of the teaching staff and the facilities available to students. The fact that it’s located in the heart of the Jewellery Quarter was also important for networking and getting to know people. Did you find your tutors particularly inspiring? Yes, in helping me achieve recognised
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industry awards and hone my skills. What were the benefits of spending 18 years with one of Europe’s largest jewellery manufacturers? My employment with Gallery and Abbeycrest gave me an incredible insight into manufacturing and engraving for the commercial market. I had a really skilled mentor who taught me a great deal and shared his knowledge and skills. Working for an international company also gave me the opportunity to travel and experience the jewellery industry in other continents.
Call: 0845 100 1122 Click: cooksongold.com Visit: Birmingham + London
2413 The Bench issue 7_AW.indd 14-15
• Oval head measuring 13x11mm • 2.7mm depth YAG 280H £136.53
Are there any recurring themes running through your work?
NOTE
hat was it about your training at the Birmingham City University School of Jewellery that really inspired you?
Solid Stamped Signet Ring Blank
Heraldic designs are back in fashion
And finally, any advice for readers thinking about embarking on an engraving course themselves? Understand that hand engraving is an art form and cannot be mastered overnight. Have patience.
Swiss Set of 24 Grain Tools
• Includes wooden handle and storage container 999 2355 £24.10
Engraving on Precious Metals by A. Brittain & P. Morton Sterling Silver Identity Bracelet
• 8.5"/215mm • Hallmarked • Ideal for engraving VVJH I04D £9.34
• Explains techniques, including inlaying and piercing as an adjunct to engraving
999 AMP £15.99
4" Arkansas Stone
Pusher Style 3 - Square End
Medium Dog Tag Pendant
4" Adjustable Dividers
• Genuine Arkansas stone • Supplied in a sturdy wooden box 997 AJA £21.25
• Made from a soft metal to help prevent damage 999 AKT £5.70
What persuaded you to finally strike out on your own? The company relocated to Leeds and I wanted to remain in the area. I decided to take a chance and have never looked back since. What sort of things do you engrave? We hear your commissions have included some weird and wonderful things? I engrave a very wide range of products both practical and decorative. During my years of self employment, along with the everyday hand engraving of initials, inscriptions, pattern work on lockets
Gold watch with hand engraved initials
• Sterling silver • 23.0x12.8x0.4mm
VPS 2043 £3.47
• Made from steel • Sprung arms
Pricing is correct at time of print and is subject to change. Prices of products that contain precious metal content vary on a daily basis – see cooksongold.com for up to date prices.
999 571 £13.25
15 30/07/2014 15:53
Ball chain • Solid or hollow metal spheres fixed at intervals or positioned adjacent to each other • Typically with own snap fastening, with larger steel versions often used to hold ID cards • Also known as bead chain or pelline chain 1. Sterling silver 1.2mm ball necklet 18"/450mm
1
VV3 60F
Barleycorn chain • Long thin teardrop-shaped links pointing in the same direction • Joins like small hinges limiting flexibility 2. 9ct yellow 035 barleycorn 18"/450mm hallmarked
WBH JFF
2
Belcher chain • Links wider than their thickness • Finest forms known as baby belcher • Also known as rolo chain • Name said to derive from ring and neckerchief of bare knuckle boxer Jim Belcher 3. Sterling silver 2 belcher 18"/450mm unhallmarked
VVB AHA
Curb chain • Variation of cable with uniform round or oval links twisted and often diamond cut • Greatest variety of widths, from few millimetres to several centimetres • Sometimes referred to as gourmette chain • Popular for men’s jewellery with heavier, larger links • Smaller, more feminine styles now available 4. Sterling silver 22 diamond cut curb 18"/450mm unhallmarked
Unchain your imagination with our guide to chain Feel constrained by your knowledge of chain? Then read on, get the lowdown on all the different types of chain, their strengths, weaknesses and how to use them. And let your imagination take flight!
3
VVD 022F
4
Figaro chain • Similar to curb but without one uniform link size or shape • Typically between one and five shorter links alternating between a longer link, creating attractive repeating pattern • Originated in Italy; named after opera The Marriage of Figaro • Traditionally made with thicker wire so sturdier than other open chains
5
5. Sterling silver 40 diamond cut figaro 18"/450mm unhallmarked 1.3mm width, 3+1
VVG 040F
Omega chain • Wide chain with distinctive structure of links or plates • Small individual metal plates closely aligned crimped to an underlying mesh substructure • Popular for strength and reflective texture • Traditionally flat in profile although rounded variations can be found • Can also be reversible • Mimics design of a bird’s feather with straight ‘backbone’ and evenly spaced rectangular ‘links’ 6. Sterling silver omega necklet 16"/400mm 1.0mm
VVI NFR
Rope chain • Rows of metal links woven like a two stranded rope • Valued for strength, integrity, classic pattern and simplicity • When one link breaks, the rest tends to follow • Sometimes combines two types and colours of metal 7. Sterling silver 11 rope 18"/450mm unhallmarked
6
7
VVR AHA
Snake chain • Made of smooth round metal plates or bands with slight curve at mid point • Soft and flexible, mimicking effect of snakeskin • Virtually closed surface profile making sleek, strong, flexible chain perfect for pendants • Also known as Brazilian chain, hexagon chain, round maille chain or star weave chain • Solid construction prevents snagging on clothing or hair
8
8. Sterling silver round snake chain 18"/450mm 1.2mm VVO R12F Spiga chain • Small figure-eight links forming a 3D chain with plaiting effect • Strong and complex • Also known as espiga chain or wheat chain • Name comes from Spanish ‘espiga’ meaning wheat 9. Sterling silver 1.5mm spiga necklet 18"/450mm
9
VVP BFA
Trace chain • Fine, delicate chain usually with uniform breadth and thickness • Typically formed from wire with slightly oval links 10. Sterling silver 12/18 trace 450mm unhallmarked
VVT CHA
Cable chain • Most common type of chain • Name derives from heavy chain used to hoist anchors on freighters • Individual oval or round links in uniform pattern • Each section identical for a simple, classic look • Variations include double link or parallel link with pairs of links • Variants use rectangular or square links or links alternating in size. Also known as link chain • Popular for a simple necklace with pendant or charm 11. Sterling silver 33/12 cable 16"/400mm hallmarked
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Call: 0845 100 1122 Click: cooksongold.com Visit: Birmingham + London
2413 The Bench issue 7_AW.indd 16-17
10
11
VVT NHP
17 30/07/2014 15:54
Meet the Cooksongold review team!
Lights!
998 KM01 Kumihimo Braiding Kit reviewed
by Marianne Castle
998 KM01
Camera!
We’re now open later
! y r e l l e Jew
994 203
999 7703
Now you can contact our friendly UK based customer service team
from 8am to 8pm weekdays
NVU 101
994 203
Postal boxes reviewed by Dave Wilson
Call our customer service team on 0845 100 1122 NVU 101
Sterling silver assembled cufflink fitting reviewed by Lydia Niziblian
999 7703 Proxxon Microflame Burner reviewed by Anna Clifton
See all of our customer video reviews at our YouTube channel
ooksongold has always believed that the best advice its customers can get comes from... its customers of course! And that’s what the Cooksongold Review Team is all about. It’s an exciting new initiative in which Cooksongold customers get to test all the latest jewellery-making products for themselves (and get to keep them once they’ve tested them!) and make a hands-on test video review to provide their fellow jewellery makers with clear, practical advice on what will work best for them. Here’s what a few of the most regular contributors to the Cooksongold Review Team have to say...
Anna Clifton “I've been using many of my tools since finishing my jewellery and silversmithing degree in 2000 and this is a fantastic opportunity to try out some new tools that can make my business more efficient or give me better results.
“It's also a great confidence booster having to talk on camera. I really enjoy making my test review videos.” Marianne Castle
“Becoming a part of the Cooksongold Review Team allows me to try out new products from the range and discover ones that I haven't tried (or thought of trying!) with the added benefit of being able to inform and demonstrate products to other jewellery makers and hobbyists. “I really enjoy reviewing products for companies.
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“I make jewellery in gold and silver as well as using less traditional materials such as perspex and reclaimed items. I also use vitreous enamels.”
Dave Wilson
“I am both an experienced jeweller of over fifteen years, but also by day I am a college and university lecturer with many professional teaching qualifications and books published on teaching. I teach multimedia, video and animation. Hence it seemed perfectly logical for me to combine my two passions and my skills to produce jewellery videos, reviews and tutorials. “Obviously, as a lecturer, I am used to teaching and performing to the camera. “At home, as well as my own jewellery workshop, I have an extensive suite of computers and professional cameras specially chosen for use with macro photography and video.”
Call: 0845 100 1122 Click: cooksongold.com Visit: Birmingham + London
2413 The Bench issue 7_AW.indd 18-19
Lydia Niziblian “I love trying out new kit, new techniques and comparing products. “I use simple, traditional techniques but sometimes the finished pieces don’t look very traditional! I want my jewellery to be like artefacts to be discovered by the wearer, to look like they have a past and a story. “I love science fiction and enjoy crystals and minerals and have used both in my jewellery as well as uncut gemstones. Some of the crystal forms are beautiful enough to include with minimal preparation. I also really enjoy reticulating silver.”
For more information on how you can become a member of the Cooksongold Review Team, visit cooksongold.com
19 30/07/2014 15:54
Product feature
Saw blades.
Your essential guide to files and sawblades Choosing the right file or saw blade for the job can be an art in itself with all the options available in terms of grades, sizes and types. So here’s our useful guide to the basics of choosing, and using, the right tool to achieve the effect you’re looking for...
Set Of 6 Vallorbe Needle Files 160mm,
all cut 2. 999 529 £30.30
Set Of 12 Vallorbe Needle Files 160mm,
all cut 2. 999 530 £60.75
Vallorbe Saw Blades Grade 2/0, bundle of 12. 972 060 £2.94
The unbeatable value of Vallorbe. Leading Swiss company Vallorbe is renowned as the world’s leading manufacturer of precision files and chain saw files having been in the business of manufacturing top quality files for over 100 years. Currently distributed in over 85 countries worldwide, Vallorbe products offer unparalleled precision and technical expertise. As well as making tools for jewellery and watchmaking, Vallorbe also makes tools for the forestry, automotive and aeronautical industries amongst others.
Files.
•D ifferent grades are used for different metals and thicknesses. What you use will depend on the intricacy of piercing you want to achieve. • The higher the number, the finer the blade; the finest blades are for delicate work or thin metal. Three saw ‘teeth’ should be the same width as the thickness of the material you want to saw. • Any less and the blade will ‘judder’ as you saw, any more and it will take you a lot longer and there’s more chance of the blade breaking.
Flat A general use file for flat surfaces and outside curves Square Use in grooves or inside angles Three square For tight angles and difficult to reach areas Round
For inside curves
Half round
For inside curves
Knife
For limited access corners
• If you’re piercing out curves it helps to use a slightly finer blade.
Crossing
For inside curves
• As a beginner use a lighter fixed frame saw, and a good starter blade would be 2/0 or 3/0.
Safety back Ideal for tight angles as serrated edges are only on one side
• When you’re putting your blade in the frame ensure that it’s tensioned correctly and not loose. A loose blade will break easily.
Files come in:
•F or best results, use smooth vertical strokes and don’t use tension or force. Instead, allow the blade to do the work. Using beeswax can help reduce friction if you feel you need it.
• Needle – small for detailed work and tidying up.
• For going round curves, turn the metal to the saw rather than trying to saw around the metal.
• The different sizes also come in various grades, from 00 (coarse) to 4 (fine). Cut 2 is a great all-purpose starter file. See the chart below.
•P iercing out takes a little practice, so expect to break a few blades while you’re getting the hang of the correct sawing motion. Use a steady but relaxed grip, with the motion coming from the elbow not the wrist.
Grade quick reference table:
While Vallorbe files for jewellery-making are consistently given 5-star ratings by Cooksongold customers. Coarse
Saw blades
Files
Grade 4
00
•S tandard – great for general shaping and tidying.
• Escapement – tiny for delicate work like watchmaking.
•N eedle files have an integral handle; however, hand files often need a handle to be fitted so don’t forget this when buying new files.
•W hen filing in a straight line use long strokes, applying even pressure on the forward stroke. • When filing on a curve, place the file on the metal and push forward using a sweeping action that follows the curve. • While filing keep the file level and after each stroke assess the metal to determine the pressure and placement of each new stroke. By working at a steady pace you can reduce the possibility of making mistakes or filing too much. Many jewellers make marks on the metal as a guide to how much they’ve filed or where they need to file.
Filing basics:
• Always file away from you, as pulling the file towards you can blunt it.
• Firstly ensure your metal is nice and secure; a wobble on the benchpeg will leads to inaccurate filing.
•T o keep the file clean and unclogged, use a file brush with water and washing up liquid.
Grade 3 Grade 2
0
Grade 1 1/0 2/0 3/0 4/0
1
2
5/0 6/0 Fine
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Call: 0845 100 1122 Click: cooksongold.com Visit: Birmingham + London
2413 The Bench issue 7_AW.indd 20-21
3
7/0 8/0
4
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Cooksongold is herE FOR the long term and makes selling scrap as easy as possible, with a dedicated scrap expert guiding you through the process.
Turning scrap into £££s. Materials you can send: • Unwanted / damaged jewellery and watch parts • Jewellery scrap • Clean scrap • Un-hallmarked • Assayed bar • Bench lemel
Fast turnaround. Cooksongold turns around jobs as quickly as possible. They aim to process scrap as follows: • Clean and hallmarked scrap jobs: next day • Bench lemel or assayed bars: three working days
Paying your way. Settlement terms couldn't be simpler, with a number of options available to suit your individual requirements: • Cash or cheque • Credit the precious metal contents directly into your metal account • Financial account (payment made to your monthly credit account) • Bank transfer
Fairtrade gold A lifeline for small scale miners... and jewellery makers. Photography by Nigel Wright.
New scrap bags. There’s never been a better or more convenient time to cash in on your scrap with Cooksongold’s simple and convenient NEW scrap bags. All you do is pop your scrap in the bag, seal it up and take it to the post office to be sent back to Cooksongold completely free. It really is that simple and a particularly convenient way to send in your larger pieces of scrap jewellery! For further advice and information about the Cooksongold scrap service call 0845 100 1122, visit the scrap experts at Cooksongold’s Trade counters or click on cooksongold.com.
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Call: 0845 100 1122 Click: cooksongold.com Visit: Birmingham + London
2413 The Bench issue 7_AW.indd 22-23
airtrade gold and precious metals are a groundbreaking initiative that offers a lifeline to small-scale miners around the world. This initiative links consumers of jewellery directly with the source of their purchase. It is this link through Fairtrade standards and certification that has made Fairtrade gold an increasingly popular choice.
Fair for everyone.
In April of this year, the Fairtrade Foundation launched a unique new scheme enabling small jewellers, goldsmiths, silversmiths and artists to use ethically sourced Fairtrade gold and silver in their jewellery. The new Goldsmiths Registration Scheme represents the single most significant development in ethical
sourcing in the UK since the launch of Fairtrade gold in 2011, making it accessible to all. It will play a vital role in the future of the jewellery sector. The new scheme is for micro-jewellers, using less than 500 grams of gold or 2 kg of certified silver, who would be too small to be licensees. Under the scheme, a master operator such as Cooksongold becomes the Fairtrade licensee and sells semi-finished Fairtrade certified gold or silver products to small jewellers. Sheets, wires, and other semi-finished products are stamped with the Fairtrade Gold Mark by the master operator and sold to goldsmiths, who will be registered with Fairtrade but not subject to an audit or be required to pay license fees.
‘Small is beautiful’. As Reena Agarwal, Commercial Account Manager for Fairtrade gold explains: “The Fairtrade Foundation recognises that the vast majority of the jewellery trade rests in the hands of small jewellers and this scheme sends a clear signal to the entire market that small is beautiful.”
Providing choice.
For the first time ever, the scheme provides small jewellers and their customers with the ability to choose, and use, a Fairtrade gold product. To find out more about the scheme and register, visit:
Register in just 3 minutes!
fairgold.org/goldsmiths-registration Retailers who sign up to the scheme can use pre-approved Fairtrade marketing materials.
23 30/07/2014 15:54
Your 2014/15 Cooksongold Catalogue
Everything for the jewellery maker delivered next day Competition
win a jewellery making hamper
worth over ÂŁ350!
*
To enter, simply answer the following question: What is the best use for a knife shaped file? A ) For inside curves B ) For flat surfaces C ) For limited access corners To enter, email benchmagazine@cooksongold.com or call 0845 100 1122 to submit your answer. Competition closes 31st August 2014, winner will be contacted via email by 5th September 2014. *Terms and conditions apply. For full terms and conditions please visit cooksongold.com
Product shown is for illustration purposes only
Call: 0845 100 1122 Click: cooksongold.com Visit: Birmingham + London
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