Your Technical Guide

September 2014

Technical guide

Everything for the jewellery maker delivered next day

FREE guide

Your technical guide

FAQs Cleaning and finishing Start soldering Unit conversion Click cooksongold.com 2472 Student Tech Guide 2014 A5_v4.indd 1

Table of comparative weights Metal gauge conversion chart Call 0845 100 1122 or 0121 200 2120

Ring sizing Cooksongold Cheat Sheet PLUS fantastic tips from our customers Visit Trade counters 03/09/2014 18:39

H

ere at Cooksongold, we don’t just provide you with everything for the jewellery maker (and, of course, the jewellery making student!) delivered next day.

Our years of experience in the industry also make us an invaluable source of hints, tips and useful advice whether you’re a student taking their first steps in jewellery making or coming to the end of your course.

Either way, you’ll find this technical guide a constant and essential companion in helping you make sure you get things right both in your student days and beyond.

Why do I have to use different tweezers when using pickle and soldering?

If you use ferrous metal tweezers in pickle the copper oxides in the pickle will become suspended in the solution. This can cause your pieces to be contaminated and the silver to be plated with copper.

To stop this from happening make sure you use either brass or plastic tweezers to remove your pieces from the pickle. The same reaction happens if you leave the binding wire on, so be careful to remove it before pickling.

Third hand

What can I use to hold my work in place while I solder?

Third hands (999 AAA) are great for using the reverse action tweezers as you can hold the metal precisely in place but you won’t get burnt while you solder.

Annealing a silver st rip

Use goggles and gloves

What does pickle do?

It removes oxides and dirt from the surface of precious metal after soldering.

ing

999 026

How can I create a polished finish on a hard to reach area?

Use a burnisher. We offer a range of sizes, curved or straight, to reach different parts of your piece.

999 CDK

Regular...

What’s the difference between the rawhide mallet and a metal hammer?

A rawhide mallet causes less damage to the work piece and is less noisy. A metal hammer will move and stretch the metal further than a rawhide so use a metal hammer if you want to flatten out the end of a wire.

or digital

What are the benefits of the different solders?

Hard solder is best for the majority of soldering as it has the closest colour match to silver. To do multiple joints you should go down through the grades from hard through medium to easy and extra easy as they have lower melting points as

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How do I change a saw blade?

Make sure you put the saw blade in so that the teeth face downwards. Check the tension before sawing. If it’s too loose, the blade will snap and not saw smoothly.

What’s a vernier gauge?

This is used to get a precise measurement of a thickness of metal. It can be used to get internal or external dimensions.

What can I use to protect my fingers while polishing?

Use finger tape, wrap it around your fingers firmly but make sure you’ve still got plenty of movement. This will protect your fingers but allow you to polish.

P ic k l

Why do you have to use different grades of files? What’s the difference?

Cut 00 (very coarse), Cut 2 (medium) and Cut 4 (fine). Different shapes can be useful for different sections of files. Triangular files in section are useful when filing ‘tight’ corners/angles; sharp edges allow the file to fit into corners when filing.

Half round files are used for filing curved surfaces and are especially useful for filing internal curves.

you go down the grades. Also easy solder can be used for fine joins that need to keep heat to a minimum.

How can I prolong the life of my files?

Make sure you file away from yourself. Using a backwards/forwards motion will blunt the file.

Keep files clean using a file brush and store in a dry place.

Should I be using a mask while I polish?

Use a mask and protective goggles to protect your eyes.

Mauro Cateb

s Tweezer

Mauro Cateb

FAQs :

Why do you anneal?

Annealing is done by heating the metal, making it soft so you can shape it further.

You must anneal in between forming metal to make sure you don’t crack the metal as you work with it.

Why do you have to use different grades of emery paper?

Different grades of emery paper remove scratches from the surface. You’ll need to work down through the grades from coarse to fine.

Once you’ve reached the finest, the surface will be ready for polishing.

I’m having trouble deciding how much silver sheet to buy for a bangle. How do I go about sizing?

Standard bangles are generally 80mm in diameter so you would need to multiply this

by Pi (3.14) to get the circumference and the length needed which in this case would be about 250mm.

Call 0845 100 1122 or 0121 200 2120

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03

03/09/2014 18:39

Cleaning and finishing After soldering and pickling there are a couple of options for cleaning: Pumice can be used once the piece has been rinsed after being in the pickle (998 224).

It is not really essential but is a good start to the cleaning and finishing process. It can be used with a nail brush to scrub the item quite vigorously (if the piece is not too delicate of course). A toothbrush can also be used to get into harder to reach areas. The green scouring pads used for dishes are great to use with pumice as they are really flexible.

Wet and Dry. Good practice is to go through the grades from 240 (975 020), 320 (975 030), 400 (975 500), 600 (975 060), 800 (975 070), 1000 (975 080) to 1200 (975 090).

This is to ensure that all the scratches are removed or reduced at each grade. Have you tried the wet and dry sticks? (999 FAJ is a half round).

These sticks are great for more precise work and the half round is ideal for inside rings.

What if I can’t get into the area with Wet and Dry? Use abrasive tape/crocus cord. This is like wet and dry string and can be used to thread into holes and other hard to reach areas such as settings.

It’s currently only available in fine with different thicknesses - 2.38mm (998 168), 1.02mm (998 170) and 0.38mm (998 210).

Polishing Pads (998 027B) are used to remove tarnish.

Abrasive Pads (975 125) can be used dry or with

water. These are flexible rubber pads used for sanding, pre bonded with aluminium oxide abrasives. Sanding Pads (999 SS01) are similar to Wet and Dry. If you rinse them after each use they should last much longer compared with Wet and Dry.

Pendant Motor. An essential piece of kit! Use with various attachments for cleaning-up. From sander rolls and abrasive discs to polishing mops, this tool offers an even and efficient finish.

Rubber Burrs. These can be used alongside or instead of Wet and Dry. The different shapes available are: Blue (coarse) - hard yet flexible. Grey (medium) - suitable for trimming castings. Brown (fine) - creates a matt finish.

Green (extra fine) - for high lustre polishing.

Radial Abrasive Discs. We sell a great value set (999 1967) containing 6 pieces of 3 grades or 2 of each grade when made up. These are great for cleaning details without being too harsh with the bristles allowing the discs to get into the grooves and fine details of a piece.

Polishing Mops for a Pendant Motor. Made of calico/cotton and felt, on cooksongold.com you’ll find the different shapes we have available.

Always use a different mop for each compound.

Start with a general compound (999 2093) small bar. This is good for most metals. Then rouge (998 189) small bar for final stage polishing.

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Ultrasonic. This is to remove the polishing compound at each stage and at the end of polishing. Use an ultrasonic cleaner like 997 1306.

This can be used with sea clean (999 AKJ1) for more effective cleaning.

How does an Ultrasonic work?

This piece of equipment uses ultrasonic waves.

The vibration generated creates tiny bubbles that lift the dirt gently away from the piece. This is useful for getting the polishing compound out of awkward areas. Do not put porous items in the tank.

What if I can’t get into a small area after polishing?

We sell a product called polishing thread (999 CBA) which is like a string that can be used in a similar way to floss to get into holes and around settings.

Once all the scratches have been removed there are several options:

Brass Brush. This is a quick and easy way to brighten up the metal. Use with a detergent such as a grease-removing washing up liquid. The brush must be used with soap especially on silver to help prevent the brass leaving yellow marks.

Again, good for most metals. Then blue Dialux for fine polishing (998 217).

Then grey Dialux for superfine finishing (998 218).

Selvyt Polishing Cloth Set (999 096X) Silver cloth for removing tarnish.

Rouge cloth for shining up gold. Soft cloth for gems and watch glass.

Over 17,000 products in stock

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03/09/2014 18:39

Start soldering What you will need: Solder. Whether you are soldering precious or non precious metal we recommend working through the grade from Hard down to Easy.

Borax. This is a natural mineral with the least toxic flux which absorbs oxygen to create a better environment for the solder to flow in. (998 098).

Borax Dish (for mixing the borax). If you’re new to soldering, it will take a little while to get the consistency right. Just add a little water and grind the cone in the dish. It should achieve the consistency of single cream. Then apply the flux to the join and over a little of the surrounding area (999 AAI).

Flux Brush. This is not a special brush. This particular brush is just less likely to leave behind bristles which can contaminate the join as the flux is brushed on (bristles are bad because they can contaminate the join as they burn).

Torch. We would recommend a hand torch if you are soldering small items like jump rings. If you are working on larger items like bangles you will need a larger torch, for example this Seivert (999 AKZ1). The Seivert allows you to adjust the flame to suit a variety of tasks.

Soldering Block. This is to solder on. Don’t use normal bricks as they will absorb the heat away from the piece preventing the piece to be soldered from getting hot enough.

Pickle. You’ll need this once the piece has been soldered: 1. Because the flux will have left sections of the piece covered in a glassy hard substance which would be difficult to get off otherwise and 2. Because the piece is likely to be ‘fire stained’.

When you heat metal to a high enough temperature, the copper in the metal will react with the oxygen Use in the air and goggles and oxidise. gloves

Pickle Unit (999 AFD). A glass container can also be used in a warm water bath. The pickle should be used warm to speed up the process. When the item comes out of the pickle it will be white in appearance.

It can then be rinsed and cleaned with Pumice (998 224) then Wet and Dry through the grades. Then it can be polished etc. It can also be finished with a brass brush (999 173) which will brighten up the metal after the wet and dry.

There are two general techniques used to apply solid solder :

• E nsure your metal is clean and your join is completely flush • Apply flux to the join • Heat piece evenly. Remember the solder will flow to the hottest area

1: Preplacement (Pallions).

Small pieces of solder are placed at the joint seam prior to heating. Heat is then applied until the solder flows into the joint.

Higher temperatures may then be required to complete the joint. The time and temperature required to complete a joint must be kept to a minimum.

Hints, tips & advice fro

“When soldering a ring, loop or jump, always start by heating the area opposite the join first. As the metal heats up and expands it will push your join closer together. If you start by aiming the flame directly at the join it will open and move apart as the metal expands leading to a gap, a failed soldering attempt and a little bad language”.

m our lovely customers

“If you want to make the same size loop all the time I have used a permanent marker and marked on the round nose pliers where I want to make my loop and they come out the same size”.

Karen Anthony Saxby

“Keep a notebook at your workbench and write down everything from the size of wire/sheet you’re using to techniques used to make a certain project. When the project is finished, you can refer back to your notes and make any changes accordingly to the next one. This is invaluable if you’re self learning and also makes the pricing at the end so much easier”.

Charlotte Berry

“If you find you’ve made your bezel a little high, simply place a jump ring inside to fit the diameter, to raise the stone”.

Jax Ostrowka

“When setting cabochons, I cover the stone in a bit of masking tape to avoid any scratches if you slip when pushing the bezel wire round the stone”.

Rita Balfour

“Draw what you have in mind; write down what you need to create it”.

“Read all the tips from the lovely cooksongold.com users and use the forum. The advice these people freely give is priceless”.

Gabriella Feliciane

Kim Presky

Sian Willamson

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2: Feeding. The fluxed joint is heated to temperature and the tip of the solder wire is fed into the joint and should melt on contact.

Call 0845 100 1122 or 0121 200 2120

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03/09/2014 18:39

Table of comparative weights

Unit conversion

Pure Platinum Fine Gold

Wax

Brass (90/10)

Copper

Sterling Silver

9ct DF

GW Palladium

14ct AY

18ct HB

18ct MW

22ct DS

Fine Gold

Pure Platinum

To use the table below, simply take the unit figure of the metal to which comparison is required and then follow the line to the right or left of this figure that is the relative weight unit for the chosen metal.

Typically, a silver model may be made for subsequent casting using the cuttlefish method producing a casting in 18ct yellow gold HB.

1.00 0.90 0.83 0.75 0.72 0.60 0.54 0.52 0.48 0.42 0.40 0.05 1.11

1.00 0.92 0.84 0.80 0.67 0.60 0.58 0.53 0.47 0.45 0.05

22ct DS

1.21 1.08 1.00 0.91 0.87 0.73 0.66 0.63 0.58 0.51 0.49 0.06

18ct MW

1.33 1.19 1.10 1.00

18ct HB

1.39 1.25 1.15 1.05 1.00 0.84 0.75 0.72 0.66 0.58 0.56 0.06

14ct AY

1.65 1.48 1.37 1.25 1.19

GW Palladium

1.84 1.65 1.52 1.39 1.32 1.11 1.00 0.96 0.88 0.77 0.75 0.09

9ct DF

1.92 1.72 1.59 1.45 1.38 1.16 1.04 1.00 0.92 0.80 0.78 0.09

Sterling Silver

2.09 1.87 1.73 1.57 1.50 1.26 1.14 1.09 1.00 0.87 0.84 0.10

Copper

2.39 2.14 1.98 1.80 1.72 1.44 1.29 1.24 1.14 1.00 0.97 0.11

Brass ( 90/10 )

2.47 2.22 2.05 1.86 1.78 1.49 1.35 1.29 1.18 1.03 1.00 0.11

Wax

21.30 19.30 17.80 16.20 15.50 13.00 11.70 11.20 10.30 9.00 8.70 1.00

0.96 0.80 0.72 0.69 0.64 0.56 0.54 0.06

1.00 0.90 0.86 0.79 0.69 0.67 0.08

For example...

The model of a man’s signet ring has been made out of silver and weighs 7.9 grams. Looking at the table along the sterling silver horizontal line and then matching this with the intersection of the 18ct yellow gold HB gives the number 1.50.

Useful information for every year of your course: Carats

to grains to grams to milligrams

x 3.0865 x 0.2 x 200

Grains

to carats to grams to milligrams to oz, avoir to oz, troy to pennyweight

x 0.324 x 0.0648 x 64.799 x 0.002286 x 0.00208 x 0.04167

Grams

to carats to grains to oz, avoir to oz, troy to pennyweight

x5 x 15.4324 x 0.03527 x 0.03215 x 0.64301

Kilograms

to oz, avoir to oz, troy to pennyweight to lb, avoir to lb, troy

x 35.274 x 32.1507 x 643.015 x 2.2046 x 2.6792

Oz, Avoirdupois

to grains to grams to oz, troy to pennyweight to lb, troy

x 437.5 x 28.3495 x 0.91146 x 18.2291 x 0.07595

Oz, Troy

to grains to grams to oz, avoir to pennyweight to lb, avoir

x 480 x 31.1035 x 1.0971 x 20 x 0.06857

Pennyweights to grains

to grams

to oz, avoir

7.90 grams x 1.50 = 11.85 grams in yellow HB gold

Lbs, Avoirdupois

to grains to grams to kilograms to oz, troy

Order before 3pm for same day despatch 2472 Student Tech Guide 2014 A5_v4.indd 8-9

to grains to grams to oz, avoir to pennyweight to lb, avoir

x 480 x 31.1035 x 1.0971 x 20 x 0.06857

Feet

to centimetres to metres

x 30.48 x 0.3048

Metres

to feet to inches to yards

x 3.2808 x 29.37 x 1.0936

Millimetres

to feet to inches to centimetres to metres

x 0.00328 x 0.03937 x 2.54 x 0.0254

Cubic cm

to cubic inches to US fl. oz.

x 0.061 x 0.0338

Cubic inches

to cubic cm to litres to US fl. oz.

x 16.387 x 0.01639 x 0.554

US gallons

to litres to cubic inches to cubic feet

x 3.785 x 231 x 0.1337

Litres

to US gallons to US quarts

x 0.2642 x 1.0567

For example...

x 24 x 1.5551 x 0.05486 x 7000 x 453.59 x 0.4536 x 14.5833

Lbs, Troy

Multiply the known unit by the figure to the right of the measurement you desire. For instance, how many grains are in 3 carats?

Known 3

x # from chart x 3.0865

Over 17,000 products in stock

= Answer = 9.2595

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09

03/09/2014 18:39

A

38 A½

39 B B½

40 C C½ 41 D

42 D½ E

43 E½

44 F F½

45 G G½

46 H

47 H½ I

48 I½

49 J J½

50 K K½

51 L

52 L½ M

53 M½ N

54

12.1 0.48 37.5 12.1 0.48 12.3 0.48 38.4 12.4 0.49 12.5 0.49 39.0 12.7 0.50 39.6 12.7 0.50 12.9 0.51 40.2 13.1 0.51 40.8 13.2 0.52 41.4 13.4 0.53 13.4 0.53 42.0 13.6 0.54 42.6 13.7 0.54 13.8 0.54 43.2 14.0 0.55 14.0 0.55 43.8 14.2 0.56 44.4 14.3 0.56 14.4 0.57 45.0 14.6 0.58 45.6 14.6 0.58 14.8 0.58 46.2 15.0 0.59 15.0 0.59 46.8 15.2 0.60 47.4 15.3 0.60 15.4 0.61 48.0 15.6 0.61 15.6 0.61 48.6 15.8 0.62 49.2 15.9 0.63 16.0 0.63 49.8 16.2 0.64 50.4 16.2 0.64 16.4 0.65 51.0 16.6 0.65 16.6 0.65 51.6 16.8 0.66 52.2 16.9 0.66 17.0 0.67 52.8 17.2 0.68 53.5 17.2 0.68

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mm

ins

mm

Internal Internal dia. circum.

N½ 17.4 0.68 54.1

55 17.5 0.69 O 17.6 0.69 54.7 O½ 17.8 0.70 55.4

56 17.8 0.70 P 18.0 0.71 56.0

57 18.1 0.71 P½ 18.2 0.72 56.7 Q 18.4 0.72 57.3

58 18.5 0.73 Q½ 18.6 0.73 57.9 R 18.8 0.74 5

59 18.8 0.74 R½ 19.0 0.75 59.2

60 19.1 0.75 S 19.2 0.75 59.9 S½ 19.4 0.76 60.5

61 19.4 0.76 T 19.5 0.77 61.1

62 19.7 0.78 T½ 19.7 0.78 61.8 U 19.9 0.79 62.4

63 20.1 0.79 U½ 20.1 0.79 63.0 V 20.3 0.80 63.7

64 20.4 0.80 V½ 20.5 0.81 64.3

65 20.7 0.81 W 20.7 0.82 64.9 W½ 20.9 0.82 65.5

66 21.0 0.83 X 21.1 0.83 66.1 X½ 21.3 0.84 66.7

67 21.3 0.84 66.7 Y 21.5 0.85 67.3

68 21.6 0.85 Y½ 21.7 0.85 67.9 Z 21.9 0.86 68.5

69 22.0 0.86 Z½ 22.1 0.87 Z+1 22.3 0.88 Z+2 22.7 0.89 Z+3 23.1 0.91

Call 0845 100 1122 or 0121 200 2120

Euro

Finger size British

Internal Internal dia. circum. mm

Finger size

ins

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 -

Ring sizing

mm

0.001 0.025 0.0012 0.03 0.0016 0.04 0.002 0.05 0.0024 0.06 0.0028 0.07 0.0032 0.08 0.0036 0.09 0.004 0.10 0.0044 0.11 0.0048 0.12 0.005 0.12 0.0052 0.13 0.006 0.15 0.0065 0.17 0.0068 0.17 0.007 0.18 0.0076 0.19 0.008 0.20 0.0084 0.21 0.0085 0.22 0.009 0.23 0.0092 0.23 0.0095 0.24 0.010 0.25 0.0105 0.27 0.0108 0.27 0.011 0.28 0.0116 0.30 0.012 0.31 0.0124 0.32 0.013 0.33 0.0136 0.35 0.014 0.36 0.0148 0.38 0.015 0.38 0.016 0.41 0.0164 0.42 0.017 0.43 0.018 0.46 0.0185 0.47 0.019 0.48 0.020 0.51 0.0215 0.55 0.022 0.56 0.024 0.61 0.025 0.64

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 -

Euro

Nearest

metric Birmingham Inch equivalent metal gauge

0.027 0.69 0.028 0.71 0.030 0.76 0.032 0.81 0.033 0.84 0.035 0.89 0.036 0.91 0.038 0.97 0.039 0.99 0.040 1.02 0.042 1.07 0.043 1.09 0.046 1.17 0.048 1.22 0.049 1.24 0.051 1.30 0.055 1.40 0.056 1.42 0.058 1.47 0.059 1.50 0.060 1.52 0.062 1.58 0.064 1.63 0.065 1.65 0.067 1.70 0.069 1.75 0.072 1.83 0.073 1.85 0.074 1.88 0.077 1.96 0.080 2.03 0.082 2.08 0.083 2.11 0.086 2.18 0.090 2.29 0.091 2.31 0.092 2.34 0.095 2.41 0.0966 2.44 0.100 2.54 0.102 2.59 0.104 2.64 0.109 2.77 0.110 2.79 0.112 2.85 0.116 2.95 0.120 3.05 0.121 3.07 0.124 3.15 0.128 3.25 0.134 3.40

British

chart Metal gauge conversion

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11

03/09/2014 18:39

08

mm

an be used on wooden sticks, similar to C using a file, or on a flat even surface.

13

07 10ths

06 05 inches

04 03

or best results, work through grade by F grade, though you can skip one or two.

12

After going through the grades, the metal is ready for final finish, e.g. polishing.

14

Wet & Dry

Saw Blades

Files

150

240

Grade 4 Grade 3 Grade 2 Grade 1 1/0 2/0 3/0 4/0 5/0 6/0 8/0

00

180

400 600 800

2000

1200

3 4

20

1000

2

19

1200

1

18

500

0

17

240

320

16

Emery

15

02

11

01

CM

16ths

10

Low number: Coarse.

High number: Fine.

Fine

2472 Student Tech Guide 2014 A5_v4.indd 12

09

• Wet & Dry paper.

• To keep the file clean and unclogged, use a file brush with water and washing up liquid.

When you are finished with this magazine please pass it on to a friend or neighbour, or recycle it. Thanx ;-)

08

• Use the file with a wooden handle, in a smooth forward motion, then lift the file and repeat - pulling the file towards you can blunt the file.

Finishing • Emery paper: use dry.

Coarse

• T he different sizes also come in varying grades, from 00 (coarse) to 4 (fine). Cut 2 is a great all-purpose starter file.

• Silver solder comes in hard, medium, easy and extra easy. Hard solder is the thickest and has the highest melting point.

By using this first you can then follow with medium and easy for further soldering, so the previous solder won’t melt.

07

Files • Files come in various forms: standard (great for general shaping and tidying), needle (small files for more detailed work and tidying up) and escapement (tiny files for delicate work, often used by horologists).

• Strip and wire need to be used with a flux which allows the solder to flow, whereas paste comes prepared with flux and is ready to use.

06

• A nd don’t forget: practice makes perfect when it comes to not breaking saw blades every few minutes!

05

• For best results, use no tension or force and simply allow the blade to glide smoothly. Using a little beeswax can help.

• Most students start with strips of silver solder which also comes in wire and paste form.

04

• Starting out, use 2/0 or 3/0 blades.

Remember: the higher the number, the finer the blade, with the finest suitable for delicate work or thin metal. Generally, three ‘teeth’ of the saw should be the same as the thickness of the material.

Solder • Silver solder can be used on silver and base metals, such as brass and copper; other precious metals, like gold and platinum, have their own solders.

03

Saw Blades • D ifferent grades for different metals of varying thicknesses depending on the intricacy of the piercing.

02

w

e know that starting out in jewellery making can be a steep learning curve, so here at Cooksongold we’ve put together our own special cheat sheet with all the basic things that you (and we!) sometimes need a little help remembering, like which solder is which and what grade of file to use. And don’t forget, we’re always happy to help, so just pop in and ask!

01

Cooksongold Cheat Sheet

03/09/2014 18:39