output fashion by Sarah Cooper

writing fashion and culture issue 1

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LL MI

A TREHARNE

6 P 2 1 P 6 P1 8 1 P 0 2 P 2 P2 6 2 P 0 3 P 2 3 P 4 3 P 6 P3 0 4 P CA

Y AIS K

LAVEROCK-WILL

IL AM

A BEYSSEMBAEV

TH KA

RYN ADAM

O BRI

NY DUGUID

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ILY C E C

P R OC T O R - R O

IS DA

Y LANGRIDGE

M JAZ

INE DURIBE

E AMES I S O SE RO

ADAMS

I JUL

A SUMI

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EDITOR’S LETTER Welcome to the first issue of Output!

This magazine was put together by undergraduates on the Writing Fashion and Culture degree, here at Southampton Solent University. Inside you’ll find a mixture of ar ticles varying from shoes to relationships and exhibitions to tattoos. We’ve tailored this magazine carefully to suit every one of you and I’m confident you’ll love what we’ve put together.

UMI

Our degree gives us the chance to explore fashion, writing, photography, ar t, and culture. Every one of our contributors has found their own voice, and Output has given them the chance to express it. Our talented group of writers and photographers have come together to help me put together a publication we can all be proud of. Although I graduate in a few weeks and won’t be here next year, I’m hoping one of you reading this will step in and take over and continue to help Output grow. I hope you enjoy reading it just as much as we’ve enjoyed putting it together, Love, YASMIN HENNESSY

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CONTRIBUTORS YASMIN HENNESSY EDITOR Soon to hit the big-time as a writer - you heard it here first

JULIA SUMI SECTION EDITOR Also speaks 300 languages, and can handle an SLR

LAURA NICHOLLS DESIGNER Can design a page in under 30 seconds. Soon to launch her own magazine

SARAH COOPER PRODUCTION EDITOR Enjoyed listening to the teamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tournez Disque mixes

STEPHANIE LINDLEY ILLUSTRATOR Would not say no to a leek and potato pie from the Woolwor ths cafe

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KAMILA BEYSSEMBAEVA MANAGING EDITOR Also handy with a camera check out her Dark and Light pages

EMMA HURSEY ART EDITOR This is the lady responsible for our design templates - we salute you, Ms H

CAMILLA TREHARNE PHOTOGRAPHY A Writing Fashion graduate, and a massively successful and talented photographer

ADAM WOODGATE DESIGNER The one and only boy on the Output team, and a whizz with all things design

YASMINE NAJIB WRITER Yasmine would have loved to live in the Swinging 60s and hang out with Richard Avedon

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CECILY-ROSE PROCTOR

EDEN BUDD WRITER As a kid, Eden used to treasure hunt for shoes in her Nan’s wardrobe

WRITER “My favourite fairy-tale is the Princess and the Pea just because it is completely random!”

ELLA FRENCH

ROSE ADAMS WRITER Rose can’t spend a day without Twitter, her source of news and gossip

WRITER What’s your addiction? “I think my addiction/guilty pleasure is make-up”

KATHRYN ADAMS

HOLLIE COBBETT WRITER Hollie would love to launch a cocktail bar combined with a vintage clothing shop

WRITER Kat gives advice on how to keep the romance flowing with help from trains and Skype

LAURA KLONOWSKA

DESSY BAEVA ILLUSTRATOR On top of Dessy’s bucket list you can find hitchhiking with friends

WRITER “Always go for heels. Nothing can stop a woman in heels.”

SPECIAL THANKS TO: GEMMA STARK, FOR HER MARKETING EXPERTISE; SUZANNA KING, FOR HER PARIS INSIGHT; AMY HOWELL, FOR HER IMAGE SOURCING; DAISY LANGRIDGE, FOR HER REVIEW, AND EVERYONE WHO SUPPORTED AND CONTRIBUTED TO THE MAGAZINE

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10 6

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CAMILLA TREHARNE

PHOTOGRAPHER

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PHOTOGRAPHY CAPTIONS

B - Photography should be used to display photoshoots only. Master page layout of ‘OUTPUT’ across the bottom of the page does not have to be over any photographs but if photographs do no fill the whole page then this adds detail to the page. The Captions style follows that of the Subtitle but is slightly smaller.

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PHOTOGRAPHY CAPTIONS

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IS MY WARDROBE THE REASON WHY I’M SINGLE? BY DAISY LAVEROCK-WILLIS

“What have you got on your feet? No offence Daisy but you look like you’re wearing your Dad’s shoes…” Not exactly the opening line you want to hear on a first date, but definitely one I was expecting. You see, I’m one of those girls who has no fashion phobias. The kind of girl who proudly owns cropped purple trousers, camouflage printed t-shir ts and leather dungarees. The kind of girl who spends a small for tune on glossy fashion magazines every month. And consequently, the kind of girl who hasn’t been on a date in over a year, following the Dad-shoe-fiasco. I’ve never been afraid to wear what I want, or try out the latest questionable trends. If I wear a boring outfit, I’m itching to tear it off almost immediately. I like to be playful, and really embrace different stylesI’m a bit like the little girl who got lost in the dressing up box, then emerged years later, entangled in a long term love affair with fashion. But now at 19 years of age, with the majority of my friends in steady relationships, I’m star ting to wonder if my wardrobe may be a factor of my single status. Is it possible that my sar torial decisions could be tarnishing my chances of finding a boyfriend? Due to my dating history (or rather lack of) I have become the notorious “single lady/fashion victim” of my friendship circle. But the more I consider it, the

more I actually find myself enjoying the title. Fashion gives me a lift; comparable to the butterflies in your belly when you find your Mr Perfect. My love of fashion has led me to revive the Girl Power movement of the 90s and renounce boys. I could go and blow my weekly clothes allowance on a pair of fringed cowboy boots from Zara without a perplexed and bored boyfriend in tow. I dress for me. I rock those cowboy boots for me. But even the most cold hear ted materialistic souls amongst us have our dark days, when not even a botanical two piece matching suit can beat the distant memories of cuddles on the sofa. In times of utter romantic austerity I look up to my fellow sar torially fabulous yet totally single icons for guidance. Miss Carrie Bradshaw pre Mr Big, Anna Wintour, Eddie and Patsy from Absolutely Fabulous - the only men in their life, who make them consistently happy, are the ones who design their shoes and clothes and I guess on a level I can relate to that. Fashion provides a good smoke screen for a broken or unfulfilled hear t, and I’d know, I’ve nursed one or two. So I decided to mend it through therapy. Retail therapy. Oh and self-help publications in the form of Vogue, Elle and i-D. It’s worked wonders. Apar t from repelling all new prospective boyfriends.

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> > FASHIONABLY SINGLE

Despite the hear tache, repelling the opposite sex can actually make you money. Leandra Medine from ‘The Man Repeller’ (www.themanrepeller.com) is a rather infamous fashion blogger and icon of mine. Despite her getting hitched earlier this year in a gorgeous Marchesa gown and matching leather jacket, Leandra also had problems pinning down a man who saw past her extraordinary wardrobe full of everything men hate (but I love) and decided to star t blogging about her disastrous love-life inflicted by her love for fashion. Her definition of a ‘Man Repeller’ is comic genius, yet the items on the list seem horribly familiar. “Outfitting oneself in a sar torially offensive mode that may result in repelling members of the opposite sex. Such garments include, but are not limited to, harem pants, boyfriend jeans, overalls (see: human repelling), shoulder pads, full-length jumpsuits, jewellry that resembles violent weaponry and clogs.” Check, check, check, check and check. It’s official. I’m a bona fide man repeller. And I couldn’t care less. Like any other teenage girl, I fantasise about the perfect boyfriend but at the same time I’m fantasising about that sequinned bomber jacket in Topshop. Although I do openly complain about being single the majority of the time, and seeing my girlfriends loved up and in long term relationships does sometimes give me ultimate pangs of jealousy, the feeling is quickly alleviated when I throw on a new blouse or my favourite stilettoes. Fashion fills the gap where a boyfriend should be. And quite frankly, I’m happy with that for now. Apparently love conquers all. If not, there’s always Manolo Blahnik.

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FASHION ENTREPRENEURS OUR TOP FIVE BIG-HITTERS. BY HOLLIE COBBETT Interested in how the biggest fashion moguls made their money? Here is an insight into how they were successful…

Christina Ong Although Christina Ong was born into wealth, she is a businesswoman and multi-millionaire in her own right. By owning franchises to the biggest names in the fashion circle, such as Bvlgari, Prada, Donna Karen and Armani, she has become ‘Queen’ of Bond Street. Turning one of the world’s most exclusive roads into her own, with persuasive cash deals to make tenants quit and in turn built her por tfolio of fashion franchises. With her investment in the Somerset-based handbag business, Mulberry, the company has blossomed with expansions overseas and profits up by 207% in 2011. Sharing her time between fashion and her other passion for health, Ong is now developing the Como Shambhala brand of spa centres and resor ts.

Philip Green This self-made billionaire from the modest surroundings of Croydon, South London has become one of the most famous businessmen in fashion; making 17th place on this year’s Rich List with a net wor th of £3.3 billion. In 2002 he helped his wife buy the Arcadia group, of which he is CEO, and has expanded business into the UAE, Singapore, Australia, Japan and recently the US. Green learnt his trade through the shoe industry, and was a millionaire by the age of 23, then moved on to impor ting jeans from Hong Kong. As well as earning money he cer tainly knows how to spend it, splashing £6 million on his recent bir thday par ty, hiring the Rosewood Mayakoba resor t in Mexico for four days. Well if you can’t par ty with Leonardo DiCaprio and Naomi Campbell on your 60th bir thday then when can you?

Jimmy Choo From selling shoes on a stall on the South Bank, it wasn’t a given that this Malaysian-born shoemaker would one day gain worldwide success. Even though Choo is the brains behind the beautifully designed shoes, he was only thrown into the spotlight in 1996, when fashion journalist Tamara Mellon saw great potential in his designs and they soon came together to produce a ready-to-wear collection under the name ‘Jimmy Choo Ltd’. They decided on a 50% ownership each of the company but after a turbulent business relationship and due to Mellon’s

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strong business ethic they par ted ways in 2001 with Choo selling his share to Equinox Luxury Holdings Ltd for £10 million. Even without Jimmy Choo, the company turnover alone last year was £166.8 million. With Tamara Mellon’s abrupt depar ture from the company in late 2007, will the Jimmy Choo Ltd profits continue to soar?

friend and later business par tner, Barry Schwar tz, allowed Klein to take the risk of star ting up his own business. Luckily, the risk was wor th it and it’s been said they took in $1 million in their first year of business. In true businessman style Klein branched off into different aspects of fashion such as spor tswear, perfume and perhaps most famously underwear, where controversial ads made Calvin Klein Ltd the centre of attention. In 2002, Calvin Klein Ltd was sold to Phillips Van Heusen Corp for an estimated $400 million, but the company lives on as one of the leading in the fashion industry.

Anya Hindmarch For Hindmarch, Italy was the step to success into the fashion world, spotting a trend that would be big in the UK – the duffel bag – and shipping 500 of them over and selling out. Carrying on her accomplishments at the age of 19, Hindmarch opened her first shop in Belgravia. Twenty years on, she has over 50 shops worldwide, specialising in women’s handbags, and bespoke men’s wallets and bags. With a turnover of over £20 million, the handbag entrepreneur has sidelined other ventures, such as designing the British Airways amenity kits, a collection in collaboration with British brand Barbour, as well as having been awarded an MBE in 2009. Calvin Klein We could not go without mentioning Calvin Klein, one of the biggest and most respected names in the industry. With his name being internationally recognised, there is not an avenue of fashion Klein hasn’t pursued. Originally borrowing $10,000 from

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DARK VERSUS

THGIL

KAMILA BEYSSEMBAEVA

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THE LONG-DISTANCE P I H S N O I TA L E R LOVERS LIVING APART. BY KATHRYN ADAMS

Is it possible to spend more than a month away from the person you spend every day with? The one you eat with, sleep next to and share a toothbrush holder with, because, frankly, it doesn’t feel like it. Long distance is one of the hardest elements to overcome in a relationship (well, it bloody well feels like it at the time) but from someone who’s come out the other end, it’s bearable. Just. So you’ve found the perfect person, your soul mate, your other half. You’re blissfully in love; staring into each other’s eyes, taking long autumn walks and late night rendezvous, when bam! Six months in, they’re off to stand on their own two feet, ie. without you. Whether it be to travel, move house, move country or in my case and probably a lot of yours, off to university. It’s the end of the world as you know it. They’re going to be hours and hours away with no line of communication… Or, you could pull your socks up, stop being such a drama queen and get onto downloading the latest version of Skype. However simple the solution may seem, that doesn’t stop your hear t sinking at the first sign of independence; and with that independence comes the cocky, self-assured attitude, and the arguments, oh, you will argue. The stresses of being apar t, and adjusting to the new dimension of your relationship seems like enough in itself, so why do they feel that nights out, ending in drunken texts and pictures posted from all manner of unrecognised people, on Facebook, is such a good idea? How considerate. University must be the worst eventuality, the worst of them all. You might as well, send them off to Amsterdam

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> > A PA R T

and parade them through the red-light district like a prize, as of course you’ve heard that wherever they’re going is teaming with girls just waiting to get their claws into your little sweethear t. Besides dealing with all the grief from your par tner, then comes the loneliness. You’re so busy making every second count, before they fly the nest that you’ve totally forgotten to brief yourself for their actual escape, I mean, their depar ture. Oh, the tears, the hysteria! Hours spent in your room sobbing to yourself, while you mull over photographs of you both pulling ridiculous faces and getting your way through multiple packets of Jammie Dodgers, his favourite. All joking aside, the world can seem a very lonely place, without your par tner in crime. It’s tough to lose your companion, and best friend all in one fell swoop. Weeks pass by and you’re beginning to wonder what you’ve got yourself in for, it’s all becoming a little too much; and within a click of a button, you’ve blown a months wages on a direct train ticket for a week long romantic reunion (aren’t trains a wonderful invention?). It’s all running into each other’s arms, through the smoke, luggage carelessly strewn across the platform, or so your dream allows. In reality, it’s a peck on the cheek and a packet of crisps; well you can’t ask for it all can you? As soon as you’re there, your week is practically up after late-night chats, cooking dinner for two and putting names to the faces you’ve stalked on Facebook, they aren’t all bad really, maybe just after one too many beers. It’s your spontaneous getaway that keeps you going through the stress-induced arguments and the feelings of no light at the end of the tunnel, but you know it’s there; the light is there somewhere, keep clinging to it! Every so often that feeling needs to be topped up with another trip; a week, a weekend, whatever can be spared to keep your relationship on the right track. That’s one thing that’s vital to maintaining a happy, healthy relationship: effor t. Without both par ties working towards the same goal, which is hopefully staying together, there’s no way your relationship will last longer than a week. Let me tell you, it’s very hard to tell sarcasm over text message and when you

assume a phrase, that is supposed to be sarcastic, is serious; you can create a whole argument out of nothing (Very easy to do, very annoying to solve when neither want to admit defeat). When you’re finally reunited with your loved one, for more than a fleeting week here or there, it’s like all your prayers have come at once. Those long autumn walks have turned into summer, you’re blissfully unaware you’re making passers-by feel sick due to your long, lingering stares and interlocked fingers but you’re just happy to be together, for the next few months. As they roll on, the lingering stares turn to angry eyes and you’re lucky to get as much as an arm around the shoulder, but it’s love and your want to be back together will not waver, however much you exploit the oppor tunity to spend your time together. After two lengthy years of long distance, I was gripping onto that light with the tips of my fingers, the summer holidays couldn’t come soon enough and with the knowledge that we’d be back in the same city in only a matter of months, was at the front of my mind, but we’re not all so lucky. I could put up with the arguments for the sake of an easy life, which living less than three hours apar t was always going to bring, but being back together is, funnily enough, just as hard to adjust to as being apar t; so be careful what you wish for. It’s safe to say, long distance can be done, however much the price. You may not share that toothbrush holder, or wake up to his delightful snores but you gain so much more in the meantime. Work through that rough patch and make sure he knows what he’s missing; and that if he even thinks about another female he won’t have a girlfriend to come home to, got to keep them on their toes!

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‘FASHION IS A PILE OF

S***

’

SO SAYS A DESIGNER REBEL. BY BRIONY DUGUID

In an industry dominated by trend, it’s bracing to see a designer rebel against the hackneyed desire to imitate a culture consumed by fashion-conscious slaves to style. Pam Hogg made her debut into the fashion world in the early eighties, taking London to the blitz. She left the industry as quietly as she came, but now the yellow-haired visionary is back, auditing her A/W 2012 collection. ‘Everything I do is impulse, nothing is planned’, says Scottish born Hogg. ‘I used to go into the city of Glasgow regularly during the early days of my youth, it was dangerous and exciting.’ The designer reveals during this period she wasn’t interested in fashion. However, heavily influenced by the rock ‘n’ roll scene; enthralled by boys and bands, she sought to create her own identity, ‘I wasn’t told to, I just wanted to’. Ar t came easy to Hogg, she outrivaled at the subject throughout school, never thinking anything of it - ‘succeeding in that industry was always for other people. I was pretty useless at anything else, I assumed I was probably going to be here until the day I died […Glasgow]’. After attending Glasgow School Of Ar t, Hogg followed her creative flair, moving to London to consor t to the Royal College Of Ar t. ‘Nothing was ever planned,’ says Hogg, a mind-set she still bides by today. Shy at the time, Hogg shares her disappointment in respect to her studies. It was the London club scene that embodied the next platform in Pam Hogg’s life. It was this crack in the rock ‘n’ roll designer’s life where she discovered fashion, dyed her hair, and never looked back. In a culture that fetishes celebrities and up-to-the-minute trends, Hogg revolutionises the human desire to go against the grain in regards to commercial fashion. ‘I’m more interested in letting my ideas become something, rather than doing a sellable collection – I can do that standing on my head. Instead, I give them a par t of me,’ says Hogg, who sincerely is her own product.

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Initially making clothes to get into clubs, the subversive pre-Madonna caused hype amongst club-goers wanting to know where she got her clothes. Inspired by the Blitz scene and all the ‘amazing people out doing each other’, Hogg made her mark in the industry, and orders were in demand by Harrods and Bloomingdales as well as dressing icons of the era such as Debbie Harry. ‘Everything that excited me was bands, and powerful women [Siouxsie Sioux], I was on a journey and I didn’t know where it was taking me’, says Hogg. Music still being her first love, the designer didn’t want to live to regret, and left the industry as quiet as she came at the peak of her career in 1992. ‘Music is my passion, but not necessarily what I’m best at…’ says Hogg, ‘…fashion is what I’m best at creatively.’ For A/W12, Pam Hogg’s iconic geometric shapes are at the foundation of the line. With inspirations drawn from bondage and the power of the female, with infusions delved from her time in the club scene, Hogg’s collection is far from demure. Her label takes a brave, stated approach to its shapes and colours, complemented by elusive incorporations of lace and leather. Hogg has strived to put the unor thodox back on the runway. If personified, Pam Hogg’s collection would be a naïve, reckless, yet arrogant embodiment, sabotaged by the spirit of youth culture and music. Interweaving sexual fetish and pop culture with the sensibilities of female empowerment creating a look that fluctuates radically from what might be considered trendy. Her aim isn’t to produce trendy clothes to contend with the leading high-end designers, but to push boundaries in terms of fashion culture and create something not because she had to but because she wanted to. ‘I’m freer because I’m only thinking about what I want to create’, says Hogg. After 15 years of club culture, Pam Hogg decided the ecstasy she gets from her creative zone is the best drug she knows, and therefore entered back into the fashion world with new eyes, still making it up as she goes along. ’15 years off will turn to 15 years on’ – Pam Hogg.

‘I ONLY THINK ABOUT WHAT I WANT TO CREATE’

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MY NAME’S EDEN, AND I’M ADDICTED — TO SHOES THERE ARE ONLY SO MANY SHOES A GIRL CAN TAKE... My name is Eden Budd, I’m 19, and I’m a shoe-aholic. The feeling that shoots through my veins and makes me feel so alive does not come from alcohol, or cigarettes. But my very own size 4, left and right footed, personal heroin. Shoes. It may seem extreme to compare a superficial discounts, and it was there and then I bought my first addiction to that of a ‘class A’ drug, but there pair of red, patent, Dr. Mar tens, I was hooked. Working is no other comparison I can draw, that would with deliveries fed my addiction like no other. Every come close to it. I guess that’s the first step done, day new styles and colours flew past my eyes, and I’ve admitted that I: Eden Budd, have a serious I began to feel as if I must buy them. Every month addiction to footwear. my collection grew, orange Vans, multi-coloured Turning 16 was the point that would change Nike Dunks and Blazers, Henry Holland Superga’s, 4 me forever. I mocked up a CV, complete with different styles of converse, studded boots, more Dr. covering letter and handed it to the manager Mar tens, I could go on and on, literally. of my local Schuh branch. In the week I was This is when my mum began to worry about me, interviewed and later told that I was successful, she still does. I tell her it’s fine, and that I know what and would star t in my sales advisor role along I’m doing, don’t worry. But being a student I know with a new guy, as soon as possible. This is where that the little money I can call my own may be better my addiction began. spent elsewhere. But I can’t give up shoes. They are I was given a card packed with 40% and 25% essential… I can’t go walking round town bare footed

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My dealer, oh sorry, boyfriend, buys me beautiful heels: orange wedges, and blue suede stilettos, which just feeds my habit to the extent that I am now an owner of over 60 pairs of shoes. Some of which have never been worn. But that doesn’t matter just owning them and knowing that they’re mine is enough for me. Now that we are together, I don’t think we will ever stop buying shoes. When we go shopping we scour the shops like addicts looking for our next score. Continually feeding each other’s habit to the point of no return. Normal couples buy flowers, or dinner for each other after an argument. When I had serious mood swings, and was utterly stressed out, I of course took it out on him. So I needed to make it up to him. Got it! I found a bargain in sale. Jeremy Scott Adidas 2.0 winged trainers, size 9 in flame style. Perfect. The designer trainers just called my name. I knew instantly that I had to buy them for him. Seeing his face open the box, smelling the scent of untouched leather, containing the unique shoes guarantees my apology is accepted. YES.

like a modern day hippie. Can I? I do not need to “feel connected to the roots of the world”, and the “nature” around me. I’d rather be wearing my new vintage style, cream and burgundy, pointed, patent, lace up, brogues, and feel fantastic thank you very much. Working at Schuh does feed my addiction but also steadies it. I get amazing discount, and instead of going crazy on a binge shop, I buy around two pairs a month without hesitation, so I guess it is controlled, kind of. But remember the “new guy” who star ted working when I did? He is now my boyfriend, and working together is not the only thing we have in common. Yes, that’s right he is also a shoe-aholic. Not only that, but he is worse than I am. He currently owns around 50-60 pairs of shoes, which like my collection is ever growing. He even has doubles of some pairs, for when the initial pair gets too worn out he has a back up. Even I think that’s weird.

F O

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Everyone keeps chatting about YOLO.You know, live your life to the fullest and do what you want. You only have one life, all that liberating kind of stuff. Instead of jumping from space like Felix Baumgar tner, I am going to buy all the shoes I can afford because YOLO! Introducing my newest addition: suede, shimmer, authentic Vans. Who would I be if I were to walk past these beauties in the latest space inspired trend? Maybe it is extreme and unjustifiable to have shoes bursting from underneath your bed, but I love it. Maybe my addiction is just who I am. Best of all I have someone who I can share it with. It’s decided I will not give up.

So now between us we own over 100 pairs of shoes. If we ever decided to move out, we would have to have a shoe room. Oh no, this is stuff of dreams. A whole room dedicated to our shoes. All four walls covered in shelves for each styles of shoe. Smar t shoes, trainers, flats, shoes you DO NOT wear, every day shoes, vintage shoes, heels, boots, special occasion shoes… wow! It will be amazing. But at the end of the day maintaining an addiction like this is going to be hard. I have student fees up to my ears, and with petrol prices rising like there’s no tomorrow maybe I just can’t afford that new pair of Jeffery Campbell Lita’s (that I can’t even walk in). Ah! Meltdown! What am I going to do with my money instead? That’s it. No more shoes. Or maybe I could just limit myself to trainers, they’re wearable and I can team them with almost any outfit. I find myself justifying my expenditures any way possible. No it’s just impossible, I would have separation issues and wouldn’t leave the house knowing I’m not wearing my new Nike Air Max’s.

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WHAT IS PHOTOGRAPHY? BY YASMINE NAJIB

“The glorification of heroin is not creative, it’s destructive. It’s not beautiful, it is ugly. This is not about ar t; it’s about life and death. And glorifying death is not good for any society. As some of the people in these images star t to die now, it becomes obvious that it is not true, you do not need to glamorise addiction to sell clothes,” so said Bill Clinton in 1997. A fashion for skinny, pale models popularised the term Heroin Chic. Rather than that of a stereotypical beauty; the androgynous Heroin Chic look consisted of dark, sunken eyes, fine blown away hair and angular bone structure. It is this imagery that caused the look to be branded in such a manner by journalists such as The New York Times’ Amy M. Spindler. In terms of social and cultural change during the 1990s, Heroin Chic emerged at a time when the popular image of heroin was changing for several reasons. Despite the fact that the purity of heroin had increased significantly, the actual price of the drug had decreased dramatically. As a result of these changes, the social stigma surrounding heroin shifted considerably. Once, heroin had only been associated with the poor and lower class of society; but now it had found a new market amongst the wealthy and middle class. Heroin had already begun to spread through modern pop culture, for example, films such as Pulp Fiction and Trainspotting that examined drug culture and heroin use. It also began to swell through the music scene; Nirvana front-man Kur t Cobain notoriously struggled with heroin addiction before his suicide in April 1994. “He became an icon for those who felt dispossessed, displaced from the mainstream.” It seemed to be only a matter of time before heroin infiltrated throughout the fashion world. A quote from New York columnist Barbara Lipper t states, “In this media culture, there’s been every sex act and every tattoo and every piercing possible and they have to keep getting more and more extreme, until they get to death … Now they’ve done death.”

When we use the term fashion photography, the expression refers to the aim of displaying clothing and other fashion items, and ultimately, selling a product to the viewer. During the post-war period, the viewer engages with fashion photography has radically shifted. It may be argued that this is in response to social, cultural and technological changes that have occurred over several decades. In The Photograph, by Graham Clarke, he states, “But any study of this kind must engage with a series of individual photographers as well as with individual images, and it would be perverse to imagine that the understanding of the photograph, and cer tainly its history, has not been dependent upon a series of individual photographers who have been central to its development, and who have produced what remain its definitive images.” Key periods throughout the history of postwar fashion photography include the emergence of two young talents during the 1950s; Irving Penn and Richard Avedon. “The natural quality of Richard Avedon’s fashion style of the fifties was perfectly suited to a war-weary society ready to enjoy its charming ease,”discusses Nancy Hall-Duncan in The History of Fashion Photography. Later, in the 1980s, shifts in youth culture and social changes were represented through youth style magazines such as The Face and ID. Within this period specifically, we will be focusing our discussion around the controversial look; Heroin Chic. The look “emerged in the 1990s as a high class fashion trend which appropriated visual imagery of heroin junkies and their environment into fashion photography”. Heroin chic was said to be a backlash, or reaction against the healthy and vibrant models of the 1990s, such as Cindy Crawford and Claudia Schiffer.But the heroin chic lifestyle was brought into public question after the sudden death of Davide Sorrenti, a fashion photographer who died from an overdose, aged 21.

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TIM WALKER:

R E L L E T YR OT S

CECILY PROCTOR-ROSE REVISITS HER TIME IN LONDON’S SOMERSET HOUSE FOR TIM WALKER’S MAGICAL EXHIBITION.

Coming back home to London is a rare treat for me while I’m at university and as a result of this, I tend to make the most of it by an going to an exhibition or four. Or five. This time, I was lucky enough to hop on the Tube and within 15 minutes I stood salivating outside one of my favourite buildings in the world: Somerset House. On this par ticular visit, I was lucky enough to visit the Tim Walker : Story Teller exhibition which made me salivate even more. As it was Christmas time, when walking into the famous cour tyard I was instantly uplifted by the monumental Christmas tree and ice-rink packed with people. I proceeded into the exhibition with the same excitement and solemnity of Harry Potter approaching the Sor ting Hat in his first year at Hogwar ts – a weird reference to think of, I admit, but it’s true. The museum was my Hogwar ts, and the exhibition was my admission to a magical world. I wasn’t disappointed: the first room presented a life-size sky-blue spitfire plane about to crash into a fireplace, with another plane’s tail lodged firmly into a wall. Instead of being terrified, as you’d expect to be if you walked into a room with two spitfires in it, they were (while very realistically designed) more like big toys which you wanted to somersault into and zoom off with the rallying tune of a brass band playing in the background...“Goodbye world, I’m in a Tim Walker photo, see you in five!”

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The next room sat a giant swan boat very much unlike those pedaloes of our childhoods at the seaside. This white wooden swan was incredibly intricate, baroque even. However, the head and the tail of the swan were only joined by its lovely, long neck and then a half constructed structure as though the middle had died and only its skeleton remained in a dark, Dorian Gray twist. You could only pause for a couple of moments to consider the swan’s sad fate as the room was filled with visual delights: photos from throughout Walker’s career surrounded the space. One photo that par ticularly took my fancy was that of a Marie Antoinette lookalike riding into a decadent pastel-coloured palace, with pillars like rock candy beginning to crumble. Although the set production is almost Hollywood, Tim Walker eases it back into

WALKER SEES THE WORLD THWROUGH A CHILD’S EYES the very essence of English childhood. Everything is overdone but nothing is too much, it’s loud but not noisy... That is not to say the exhibition goes without a little dose of childhood horror. Standing in the corner of a back room was a twelve foot doll with blonde ringlets, blue dress and the creepiest smile in London. I may be a little biased because I’ve never liked dolls but in the photo, which was shot for Italian Vogue, the doll is chasing a comparatively miniature model who’s trapped in barbed wire down a hill... all the while, the actual doll is a metre away from me, smiling on down. In this world, everything is contrived yet ethereal; the impossibility of it all imposes a sense of approaching calamity. Spitfires might crash into you, the swan might bite, and the freakish doll might...invite you to tea? While you’re never too scared in the world that each photo lets you conjure up there is an edge to them, a creeping terror you can’t rid yourself of.

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Pic Credits: Tim Walker/Somerset House

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I WANT IT

ALL ALL ALL DAISY LANGRIDGE PICKS HER FAVOURITE PIECES FOR SPRING/SUMMER 2013

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Back in September I was lucky enough to go to London Fashion Week and wander around the exhibition space in the beautiful Somerset House. I saw the best looks for Spring Summer 2013 and it is time to start stocking your wardrobe with the hottest trends for this season. S/S13 really provides something for everyone. From candy stripes to 90s nostalgia, white ensembles to bright prints, monochrome and 60s chic there is a style to suit everyone’s wardrobe as well as some beautiful new trends to help you break out of your fashion rut. This summer is about having fun with fashion and it is a great opportunity to try all the styles you’ve never dared try before. Prints are big news this season but if you’re a little reluctant to inject bright colours and patterns then stay on trend with a monochromatic “Optical Art” piece. Stripes make their way into our everyday wardrobe whether they’re vertical, horizontal, diagonal- there is a flattering stripe for every shape. Sticking to a black and white palette allows you play around with bright accessories, statement bags and shoes- which all never fail to bring an instant pop to any outfit. Take the plunge and invest in candy striped pieces in pastel hues of lilac and pink or go zesty with yellows, oranges and fiery reds as seen at Marc Jacobs and Oscar de la Renta. 60s chic makes a comeback with 2 pieces and mini-skirts on the rise. This provides a great opportunity to play around with colours and textures. Cara Delevingne showcased Moschino’s beautiful floral embroidery on a 60s mini shift dress and Mary Katrantzou’s stunning zesty 2-piece suit makes quite the statement outfit. Take inspiration and pair a bright pencil skirt with a pure white blouse to add instant fashion credentials to your work wardrobe. For a playful twist don’t shy away from embroidery or patterns, embrace them with the mini trend to keep the look fresh and fun. Channel your inner Twiggy and don’t be afraid to bare those legs, keep your nude heels on hand to instantly add inches. Key colours for S/S13 include pinks, sage green, aqua and lilac showcased perfectly by Makepiece. For those bright days go for lemon yellows, daring orange or postbox red. Go for bold colour blocking if you’re feeling extra summery or tone down by pairing with a bright white to add a real pop of colour to your outfit. With colours this blinding, invest in some statement sunglasses. Take inspiration from Linda Farrow and splurge on a pair that add style and interest to any outfit. There is no need to wave goodbye to some of your A/W12 favourites as the cropped top and peplum style still feature heavily in S/S13. Take a chance and team a striped cropped tee with spor ts luxe trousers for instant 90s nostalgia or take your favourite peplum shape and update it using the latest colour pallet to keep your look on trend.

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THE AGE-OLD QUESTION CAN YOU TRULY BE FRIENDS WITH BENEFITS? BY JAZMINE DURIBE

With the release of feature films like No Strings Attached and Friends with Benefits earlier this year women across the world realised that they too were once in that situation - me included. I wish my friend with benefits had been Justin Timberlake and I’m sure my ‘friend’ wished I’d been Mila Kounis. At least unlike the girl in film I didn’t fall hopelessly in love. Being ‘friends with benefits’ does not mean you are promiscuous it simply means you have your best interests at hear t. All you are doing is separating the physical act which ‘usually’ takes place in a relationship to the emotional par t of a relationship. Well you might be thinking how is she qualified to give such advice. Let me tell you I am the Queen of Friends with Benefits land. I live there. I eat there. And occasionally I sleep there. An example is a boy I had met at a club whilst in my first week at uni, I can’t say I was attracted to him and being 116 miles from home I just wanted to make as many friends as I possibly could - besides you can never have too many friends. Maybe my intentions were not as innocent and pure as I have just made out but I like to think they were. Finding out he lived opposite me was a bonus, we could watch films, mess around and do what mates do. Until one night one thing led to another and I haven’t looked back since. When I went home and told my female friends about my recent conquest they were horrified. “Well what’s going to happen now, do you think he’s going to ask you out?” Then I had to remind them of my age and that it wasn’t 1954. I didn’t need marriage, a mor tgage and babies - there didn’t have to be a next step. What if I liked things the way they were? That shut them up but I knew what they were thinking, “He’s using her and she’s going to get hur t so I’d better get the Rosé in.” Then I wondered why is it women that always have this detachment problem? Men love having the ‘friends with benefits’ scenario because to them it’s like having all the good points of being in a relationship (i.e. sex) and none of the boring emotional stuff. No being dragged around shopping centres for hours and no punishment for not getting you a present/forgetting your bir thday. Since you’re already friends it’s like going out with one of the lads except this lad has boobs and you have sex at the end of the night. For a ‘regular’ woman this is sheer hell. ‘Regular’ women are strange creatures - they weep at the Time Traveller’s Wife, they love to shop and they want their Prince Charming to ride in on a white steed. I, on the other hand, would rather watch Taken, be in the pub than go shopping and I would prefer Prince Charming, whoever he may be on that day, to be in a Corsa VXR.

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Now, this is an awfully stereotypical generalisation of women I am using here. I’m sure there are many women who, like me, love this ‘arrangement’. More and more women are taking control so now it’s no longer a taboo. Well, I say it’s no longer taboo but it is to the older generation who just do not understand. Realising that not wanting to be in a committed relationship is not weird at all, it’s perfectly normal and perhaps better for both par ties in the long run. I don’t think I need to tell you what happens when someone is more committed than the other in the relationship. Infidelity. Well does that mean to be friends with benefits you have to think like a man? Yes, basically. Now, this doesn’t mean going full on geezer bird. It means being strong and knowing what you want. Think of this as a contract. The terms and conditions are laid out before you proceed so you know where things are heading and just like being in cour t you have to be honest with each other for this to ever work out. Obviously things don’t always go as planned so you must also know when the contract should be terminated. As soon

‘I HAD TO REMIND THEM OF MY AGE AND THAT IT WASN’T 1954’ as you feel that tinge of pain in your hear t when s/he leaves and your head star ts to tell you that you can be together, STOP. Indeed, some of the best relationships have star ted on a friends with benefits status, however, this is rare, don’t believe the movies. It may be wor th having a chat at this stage but whatever you do, do not just carr y on as it will only end up with an awkward situation, no benefits and maybe even no friend. Another time for termination is when either par ty gets a new par tner. It’s definitely time to call it quits and run like a cheetah. I know how it is all too easy for the arrangement to overspill into a new relationship but things will only get incredibly messy and may result in a brick through ones car window, maybe even in the face. So, you can truly have friends with benefits. All you need is honesty with yourself and your friend. If that fails then a contract definitely should be drawn up.

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I’ve become old before my time. Yes, I am 19 years old and would pick a cosy night in front the telly watching the X factor in my onesie and eating half a tub of Ben & Jerrys over a wild, drunken night out any day. “Your first year at university is the best” they said, you’ll love “the par ties, the nightlife and the cheap booze” however after only being at university for two months my experience has been very different. With all sor ts of horror stories about students being wreckless and binge drinking until they vomit on themselves and lying sprawled across pavements with their skir ts over their face, my mother became (to say the least) very worried. I’ve never heard the words “BE CAREFUL” and “DON’T DRINK TOO MUCH” so many times, until the day I left for University. I was never really a par ty animal back at home either, yet my mother had it stuck in her head that I was going to become a raging alcoholic and a dir ty stop out when I entered student life. She couldn’t have been more wrong. As you may know, us poor students don’t have NO, THANKS a lot of money and the money I do have is just WHERE ARE MY enough to get by. But who would have thought BY ROSIE AMES university would actually turn me sensible? Fresher’s week: a week of constant par tying, nights out and extremely cheap alcohol, most students idea of heaven. At first I was happy to go out and experience the student lifestyle however after the first few nights (in which you could say I consumed way too many jagerbombs), and waking up with THE most awful hangovers I have ever experienced, oh and I developed the dreaded fresher’s flu, I concluded that I couldn’t hack it any longer. From the end of week one, I had given up drinking and limited myself to only going out every now and then. So, the second week came around and all my flat mates are still going out every night, a knock on my door, “You coming out tonight?” “No, I think I’m going to stay in and get an early night.” And off they go for another night of intoxication. On the rare occasion that I do force myself to go out in order to

NIGHT OUT?

SLIPPERS?

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bond with my flat mates, I do not drink any alcohol, this becomes awkward and slightly embarrassing when I am unable to join in any pre-drinking games, as downing a glass of apple juice isn’t par ticularly hardcore and getting one of my five-a-day isn’t going to give me the same kind of buzz that a vodka and coke would. However, the look on the barman’s face when I order a glass of water in a club is one of disappointment and confusion when the request comes from a completely sober student. My nights out tend to be relatively fun for the first hour or so whilst my friends are not yet completely fueled by shots and alcopop’s and I am able to have a conversation with them. Unfor tunately as everyone knows it’s a pretty horrendous experience being the only sober person amongst a sea of inebriated young adults. Having not drunk any alcohol you start to get irritated as the night goes on and quickly star t to lose your temper with every idiot that spills a drink on you and especially with the people who can’t stand up and end up bashing and elbowing you and occasionally pulling you down onto the dance floor. I have stopped drinking not only to prevent myself from dreaded hangovers, but also to save myself some money. From previous experience when taking £30 on a night out and coming home with a

few pound left, not knowing how you’ve spent so much and being left with a serious headache, a few mysterious bruises and a few random boys numbers to show for it, it star ts to dramatically burn through my precious pennies. I decided that I would much prefer to give up on going out and wasting money on nights I potentially won’t even remember and instead use that money to buy pretty, new clothes, trains home to see my family and branded food. The first time my parents came to visit me at university since I moved, they took me out for Sunday lunch, a trip we took most weekends whilst back at home, Over lunch I was obviously asked question upon question about how my course was going, about the new friends I’d made and about living in a different city without the comfort of my king sized bed and 3 double wardrobes back at home. And then of course my Mother, already dreading the answer, asked about the nightlife. To her surprise, relief and delight I was happy to tell her that I had not become the drunkard young adult she was expecting, which worked in my favor as I genuinely believe that if I had told her the opposite to what she wanted to hear I wouldn’t have been allowed the chocolate fondue deser t that I devoured afterwards. But on a serious note, my University education is extremely impor tant to me as I never actually thought I’d manage to get here, so yes me not drinking or going out much is because I’m a 19 year old OAP and a shopping addict but also it becomes a major advantage to my degree, less distractions like that means I won’t waste a whole day recovering from the night before instead of doing anything productive. I may have become old before my time but I really couldn’t care less, I will enjoy my time at university in my own way.

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OPEN

THE

CELLARDOOR

WHAT HAPPENS WHEN AN ASSESSMENT BECOMES A PROFESSIONAL PRODUCT? BY ROSE ADAMS

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Have you ever dreamed of setting up your own publication? To have the freedom to be completely in control of the layout, content and print? Well that’s exactly what Jade Cooper-Collins and Amy Power have done, as they are the brains behind online quar terly magazine ‘Cellardoor’. First created in 2009, Cellardoor is a magazine for ‘young, stylish and confident women.’ It is now in its ninth issue, it covers a broad range of content from ar t, culture and music, to fashion and beauty. The circa 1950s image, pretty pastel colour scheme and exciting kitsch photo shoots make the magazine a unique and visually impressive read. The content and feminine theme really displays how the girls have weaved their creative ideas together, to create something fresh and original. I caught up with Jade and Amy, Writing Fashion and Culture graduates, to find out the secrets behind their success and their top tips for anyone wishing to follow in their footsteps.

Hi girls, great to speak to you we love your magazine! So first things first, how did you come up with the idea for Cellardoor? It was a project we both star ted whilst still at University, as par t of the Advanced Magazine design unit on the course. We then decided to carry on with the magazine once we graduated, as we just loved working on it. We’d graduated straight into the height of recession and were struggling to get work so we wanted to do something we enjoyed - Cellardoor seemed like the perfect solution. At first it was a way to stop us from being bored whilst searching endlessly for jobs, but we got some amazing feedback and we decided to take it a little more seriously. There wasn’t anything like it out there at the time and has since grown from just being a hobby to a real job. What do you think was the most important skill you learnt from your time at university, which has helped you in your work? Definitely the basic skills of putting a magazine together! The design aspects of the course, as well the main journalistic writing elements helped a lot. We both play to our own strengths, and we think that’s what works so well. We managed to gain some great skills on the course, so we all just muck in with whatever needs doing. It’s clear you work well as a team, do you both have particular job roles or do you share the work load? A combination of both, really. Amy is very good at spotting mistakes and casting a critical eye over writing so she can take credit for that and Jade makes the pages look beautiful. Where do you find inspiration? There are a lot of great blogs out there, and we read so many that it would be hard to list them. While we love reading them and appreciate how fab they

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are and the talent that’s around, it’s everyday life that really inspires us. As the magazine is published quar terly, to coincide with the seasons, we tend to draw inspiration from them. Our contributors often come up with great ideas, too. There’s a lot of hidden talent out there. Definitely! What’s it like to be doing what you love and seeing all of your hard work pay off? It’s an incredible feeling, and there’s nothing like that rush we get after publishing each new issue! We’ve

Jade and Amy have proved that it is possible to achieve your ambitions with a little hard work and determination. If Cellardoor has sparked your creative mind and you want to get your work out there; try online magazine tools such as Issuu.com. After the success the magazine has had online, the next step for Cellar Door is to make it to print. If you would like to help make this happen then be sure to donate to their cause, using the link on the ‘about’ page of their website. Check out Cellardoor for yourself at: www. cellardoormagazine.co.uk They would also love to hear your feedback, so send your thoughts or just get in touch with the girls at sendusyourlove@cellardoormagazine.co.uk.

‘IT’S EVERYDAY LIFE THAT REALLY INSPIRES US.’ also been lucky enough to work with some incredibly talented contributors who keep inspiring us. Having complete creative control over all our content means we really do love every single detail that goes into our pages, so seeing the final product always makes us proud. You should indeed be proud of your creation. It’s an amazing read! Finally, what advice would you give to others who would like to follow in your footsteps and launch their own magazine? If you’re really passionate about what you’re doing, other people will be too. You have to be willing to work hard. It definitely isn’t easy but it’s completely wor th it. We take open submissions we’d love to hear from any budding contributors!

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OH, POTATOES!

BECAUSE EVERYONE’S GOT TO EAT... BY JULIA SUMI

CRISPY POTATO PANCAKES WITH SALMON AND CRÈME FRAÎCHE

This snack is perfect for when it star t to get cold outside. Ingredients you need: 1.5 pounds peeled and grated potatoes 1 grated onion 1 egg 2 tablespoons flour Thinly sliced smoked salmon Crème fraîche 1 lemon Oil Salt Pepper Mix grated potatoes, onion, egg, flour, salt and pepper in a bowl. Heat oil in a frying pan and place small por tions of the mixture in the pan, flatten them and fry on both sides for about 5 minutes each. Repeat using all the potatoes. Serve the crispy pancakes warm with a blob of crème fraîche, a splash of lemon juice and some salmon.

TE WIN

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U AUT

POTATO AND VEGETABLE SOUP

Nothing is easier and more warming than a hear ty winter soup. Ingredients you need: 0.5 pounds peeled and cut potatoes Cabbage 0.5 pounds peeled and cut carrots 0.5 pound peeled and cut celeriac, parsnip or turnip 1 onion Oil 2 stock cubes Fry the thinly cut onion in a large pan with some oil. Add the cut potatoes, cabbage, carrots and other winter vegetables that you like to the pan and stir. Pour water into the pan so all the vegetables are covered. Add the U heat until potatoes T stock and cook theO soup at a low and vegetables are tender.

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ROAST CHICKEN WITH POTATOES, LEMON AND ASPARAGUS

Create this simple one-pan-meal to welcome spring. Ingredients you need: 1.5 pounds halved potatoes 3 pounds chicken legs Green asparagus 1 lemon cut into wedges 3 tablespoons butter Fresh thyme, salt and pepper First preheat the oven to 475 degrees. Roast the potatoes and half of the butter in a roasting pan until they are golden for 20 to 25 minutes. Place the chicken legs on top of the potatoes skin side up, season everything with salt and pepper and roast for another 20 minutes until the chicken star ts browning. Place the asparagus, lemon, remaining butter and thyme in the roasting pan and continue roasting until the asparagus is tender for an additional 5-15 minutes.

M SUM

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SPR

TORTILLA WITH SUMMERY SALAD

ING

Prepare this light meal on a hot summer day. Ingredients you need: 2 pounds peeled and cut potatoes 1 onion 5 eggs Olive oil Salt Pepper Mixed green leaves Oil, vinegar, mustard, pepper and salt for the dressing Fry the onion and the thinly cut potatoes in olive oil in a frying pan at a high temperature. Turn the heat down, season with salt and pepper and fry gently for about 20 minutes until tender. Break the eggs into a bowl and whisk them lightly before adding the cooked potatoes and onion. Mix everything before poring it back into the frying pan and cook for 20 to 25 minutes. When there is no liquid from the eggs left, turn over and cook the other side for another 5 minutes. Serve with a salad.

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☞

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FOR A FULL VERSION OF OUTPUT, VISIT WRITINGFASHIONANDCULTURE.TUMBLR.COM

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