A New Vibe

The Gramercy Graces The Gables

BY LIZZIE WILCOX

When Tarpon Bend announced its departure in February 2019, it left a gap in the Gables dining and drinking scene. Two years later, that void is quite literally being filled by The Gramercy, which opened in December in the former Tarpon Bend space. They do have outdoor seating on Miracle Mile and in the paseo between the Mile and Aragon Avenue for those who feel more comfortable dining al fresco, but the interior is really where all the fun is.

There are neon lights, cheetah-print booths and plants. Lots and lots of plants. Does all this really fit into the otherwise more subdued aesthetic of Miracle Mile? Maybe not, but that’s not a bad thing. Named after the Gramercy area in New York City, the intention was to be more New York than Miami. The change of scenery is a breath of fresh air and the Instagram-able decor reminds you that there are people under the age of 50 in Coral Gables.

The menu is mainly American Brasserie cuisine, plus an impressive sushi bar. Also impressive is the cocktail list. Their signature cocktail, The Gramercy, is made with tequila, blackberry-sage, lemon, cardamom bitters and aquafaba (which makes it vegan-friendly). It’s a tart, yet delicious way to start the evening. On the sweeter side is the Jazz Connection, which combines gin, orange curacao, honey-lavender syrup, lemon, cream and orange blossom water.

All of The Gramercy’s starters are decadent. In the mood for a tartare, we chose the steak over the tuna. The steak tartare comes with a quail egg yolk in the center and crackers on the side. They prepare it tableside, mixing the egg with the black Angus beef and spreading it all onto the crackers. We also indulged in the truffle caviar deviled eggs. Our waitress Patty said that a customer described them as “eating silk,” and they weren’t wrong. You can immediately taste the truffle oil and the eggs are so soft they basically melt in your mouth.

With a meat-focused entrée list (though there are some seafood and pasta options), we ordered “The Gram” burger and the filet mignon. Made with wagyu beef and topped with caramelized onions and either gruyere or blue cheese, the burger was spectacular. The filet was also flavorful, served atop a light cauliflower puree. We split a side of Brussels sprouts, which were recommended to us, though neither of us are particularly crazy about them. But here they were nicely crisped, topped with a balsamic glaze and toasted macadamia nuts.

By the end of the night, the place was packed (or at least as packed as it could be at 50 percent capacity), reminiscent of the late-night Tarpon Bend spectacle that we’ve missed dearly. ■

Fish Dish Die-Hards

For those who have visited the “reborn” Bangkok Bangkok II on Giralda Plaza – now the Khaosan Road “Thai street eatery” – the new flavors are fascinating. But for those die-hard fans of the old menu, a handful of favorite dishes are still served. Our favorite is the remarkable “Little Big Man,” a crispy whole red snapper lathered in a sweet-andsour red chili paste. Amazing, at a market price of $25-$30.

Those Cruciferous Buds

They come from that same healthy family of greens as broccoli, and yes, Brussels sprouts were originally grown in what is now Belgium. But not everyone loves these green buds. If you want to overcome your aversion, try the Brussels Sprout Salad at Doc B’s on Miracle Mile. It’s a creamy tower of shredded sprouts, with marcona almonds, basil vinaigrette and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. Learn to love it, for $14.

Not Don Shula’s Menu

Public Square is the new neighborhood hotspot in the South Gables, deftly filling the shoes of the former Shula’s 347 Grill. The steaks are still great, but now the menu has a slew of new dishes. Among them is the surprisingly delightful crab asparagus salad, with jumbo lump crab and lemon dressing. Perfect asparagus, fresh crab and baby heirloom tomatoes, for $16. ■