Corduroy Lines: Issue 11

c ord uroyli ne s I ssue#11Spr i ng2010

Travel :S riLanka,Cal i forni a,Morocco

The ‘ Art ’ofNoseri di ng

3 Mont hsi n Paradi se

The way ofgl ue up

Tei gnmout h?

Contents

Travel: 18 Sri Lanka 24 California 48 Boys in Africa 70 Teignmouth!

Opinion: 68 And another thing by Martin Dorey Features: 14 The way of the glue-up 56 OXBOW WLT - Maldives 62 The Art of Noseriding 73 Three months on a tropical island 10 30 36 42 78

News Board Porn Gallery Reviews Deck the halls

EDI TOR Si mon Mi tchel l-noser i der @cor dur oyl i nes. com DESI GNER Cl i ve Symm ADVERTI SI NG To adver ti se cal l :01237 475 228 THE LEGAL BI T: CONTRI BUTORS Si mon Mi tchel l ,Oxbow Ji m Phi l i ps,Phi l lHi l l ,Ki ndtAchi l e, Mar kDonovan,Steve Hor n,Utopi a Sur f ,Tom Maj or ,Chr i sPr eston,Andy Howar t, Wavedr eamer . co. uk,Ti m Tanton,Paddl ef orRel i ef ,Symages.

PLEASE NOTE: We’ dl ove yourcontr i buti ons!Howeverpl ease contactusf i r sti ncase we have al r eady cover ed yourstor y ori t’ snotsui tabl e.Al lthe acti vi ti esf eatur ed i n thi s publ i cati on ar e str enuousand contai n el ementsofdanger .We muststate f or l egalr easonsthatanyone under taki ng any ofthese acti vi ti esdoesso atthei r own r i skand underno ci r cumstancescan Cor dur oy Li nesbe hel dr esponsi bl e f orany i nj ur i esorotherl osses.

No par tofthi smagazi ne may be r epr oduced wi thoutwr i tten per mi ssi on f r om the Edi tor .Al lcontenti scopyr i ghtthe author/Cor dur oy Li nes.

Cord uroyLi ne sI s s ue1 1 Edi t or i al Ar eyou amemberoft heBSA? I fyes,t hen Iwantt o poi ntyou i nt hedi r ect i on ofaFacebookgr oup t hat ’ shopi ng t o changet hef aceoft heor gani sat i on. ht t p: / / www. f acebook. com/ gr oup. php?gi d=320519889891 Now f orme,Ihavebeen ver ycyni calaboutt heBSA f oral ongt i me.

I n myopi ni on i thasbeen agover ni ng bodyt hatt akest hemoney f r om usand t hen onl ypr omot esaver ysmal lpar toft hesur f i ng communi t y.Asyou ar eawar eI ’ m al ongboar der .So t he quest i on f ormehasal waysbeen;“Whatdoest he BSA do f orme?”Wel lnot hi ng,apar tf r om i nsur anceand ani cest i cker .Then puton t op ofmycyni ci sm t hef actt heBSA has been r un i nt hemostappal l i ng way f orwhatseemst hel ast3year s.

Tr awlbackt hr ough someoft he newsar chi vesand you’ l lsee whatImean.

Whyam Ipoi nt i ng you at af acebookgr oup? Wel li t seemst hatt her ei sasmal l possi bi l i t yofsomeonest andi ng f orel ect i on who act ual l ycar esaboutsur f i ng.

I tcoul d bej ustt heki ckup t hear set hatt heBSA needsand f i nal l ygi veussomeonei n char gewho wi l lact ual l ybe r unni ng t heBSA f ort hemember s,nott hei rown per sonalgl or y.Who coul d t hi sper son be? I t ’ sChr i sThompson,f r om Er r antsur f ,l i f el ong sur f erand BSA memberf or20+year s.Isuggestt hatyou go and r ead whathewant s t o do wi t ht heBSA and makeyourown mi nd up.Butf orme,I ’ dl i ket o seea mor er epr esent at i veBSA t hathel psand suppor t sal lofi t ’ smember snotj ust t heel i t e!Iknow t heel i t esur f er sar ei mpor t antbutso ar et her estofus.

OK r antover .Ihopeyou enj oyt hi sedi t i on ofCor dur oyLi nesand don’ tf or getwe’ r eal waysl ooki ng f oryou t o geti nvol ved.

Thanks Si mon Mi t chel l Edi t or

Phot o:JeanMar cSauvelatLesEst agnot sbyBenj ami nSpeyer

s w e N Br i ti sh Longboar d Uni on EventsCal endar

BritishLongboardUnionEventsCalendar Event#1 T h eWa t e r i n gHo l e B a t h s h e b aC l a s s i ca tP e r r a n p o r t h ,2 4 t h /2 5 t h A p r i l .T h i se v e n twi l lr u no v e rt wod a y s Event# 2 S a u n t o nB e a c h ,2 2 n d /2 3 r dMa y .T h i se v e n twi l lr u no v e rt wo d a y s Event# 3 T h eE x t r e meA c a d e myMi d s u mme rC l a s s i c ,a tWa t e r g a t eB a y , 2 6 t h /2 7 t hJ u n e .

Event# 4 Wa l e so rNE-T B C Event# 5 Gwi t h i a n ,4 t h/5 t hS e p t e mb e r–T B C Br i t i shL ongboar dChampi onshi ps2010 A ss o meo fy o uma yk n o w,t h eB L Uh a sb e e ng i v e nt h er i g h tt o r u nt h eB r i t i s hL o n g b o a r dC h a mp i o n s h i p sf o r2 0 1 0o nb e h a l fo f t h eB S A.T h eB S A,a st h eNa t i o n a lGo v e r n i n gB o d yo p e r a t e s Na t i o n a lC h a mp i o n s h i p su n d e rI S Ar u l e s .

T h eb a s i cr e q u i r e me n t sf o rr u n n i n gaNa t i o n a le v e n ta r e : A l lc o mp e t i t o r smu s th o l daB r i t i s hP a s s p o r t A l lc o mp e t i t o r smu s tb eF u l lme mb e r so ft h eB S Af o re a c he v e n t F o rL o n g b o a r dc o mp e t i t i o n s ,a l lb o a r d smu s tb eami n i mu mo f 9 ʼl o n ga c r o s st h et o pd e c ko ft h eb o a r d Pl eas edownl oad and r ead t heI SA Rul es2010 ver s i onf ormor edet ai l .

BSA af f i l i at edc l ubs T h e r ei sami s c o n c e p t i o nt h a tb e i n game mb e ro fa na f f i l i a t e dc l u b a u t o ma t i c a l l yp r o v i d e sme mb e r s h i po ft h eB S A. T h i si sn o ta l wa y st h ec a s e .

Mo s tc l u b swi l lp r o v i d eat i e r e dc l u bme mb e r s h i p ,u s u a l l yo n ewi t hB S A me mb e r s h i pa n do n ewi t h o u t( wh i l ep r o v i d i n gt h e i ro wni n s u r a n c e ) .

I fas u r f e rwi s h e st ot a k ep a r ti nNa t i o n a lC o mp e t i t i o n s ,a n dh eh a st a k e n o u tc l u bme mb e r s h i pa n do p t e dt ot a k eB S Ame mb e r s h i pa sp a r to ft h a t me mb e r s h i p ,t h e ymu s te n s u r et h a tt h ec l u bh a si n f o r me dt h eB S Aa n d p a s s e do v e rt h ef e e si no r d e rf o rme mb e r s h i pt ob ev a l i di nt i mef o ra c o mp e t i t i o n .

I ti su pt ot h ec o mp e t i t o rt oe n s u r et h e ya r ef u l lme mb e r so ft h e B S Ab yc h e c k i n gwi t ht h eB S Ad i r e c t l y .

Pr oofOfMember shi p P r i o rt oa l lc o mp e t i t i o n s ,t h eB L U/B S Awi l lc h e c ka l ls u r f e r sme mb e r s h i p s a g a i n s tt h eB S Al i s t i n g s .

I fas u r f e ri sn o tame mb e ro ft h eB S Aa n dc a n n o ts h o wp r o o fo fme mb e r s h i p ,t h e ywi l ln o tb ea l l o we dt ot a k ep a r ti nt h ee v e n tu n l e s ss o mes o r to f j o i n i n gu pp r o c e s si sp r o v i d e da tt h ee v e n t .

T h i si sb e i n ge x p l o r e dwi t ht h eB S A,b u tc a n n o tb eg u a r a n t e e da tt h i s t i me .

L a t ee n t r i e so nt h eb e a c hr i s kt h es u r f e rb e i n gd i s q u a l i f i e df r o me n t e r i n g t h ee v e n ti ft h e yc a n n o ts h o wt h e i rB S Ame mb e r s h i pc a r do nt h ed a yo rb y h a v i n gb e e np r ev e t t e db yt h eo r g a n i s e r s .

HOTDOGGERSLONGBOARD SURFCLUB CONTESTCALENDER 2010.

LEAGUESPONSORS = SECOND SKI N /ERANTSURFTRAVEL. SI GN I N 8PM PROMPTFOR ALLCLUB EVENTS.

Appeal i ng?

Appal l i ng!

UNDERDOG SPONSORS =SALOMON,GUTS LONGBOARDS,GULFSTREAM. NO SPONSORED OR RANKED SURFERS. ALLCLUB EVENTS AREOPEN TO FELLOW CLUB MEMBERS FROM. . .

BRI STOLSURF,WOOLACOMBELONGBOARDERS, SCARBOROUGH MALI BU, RN/RM WAVERI DERS,SHORESURF. APRI L10TH/11TH = PORTHCAW LLONGBOARD CLASSI C.RESTBAY WALES. APRI L24TH/25TH = BRI TI SH LONGBOARD UNI ON NO. 1 -WATERI NGHOLECLASSI C,PERRANPORTH. MAY8TH = HOTDOGGERS LEAGUENO. 2.( BBQ,BEACH OR W HI TELI ON) MAY9TH = HOTDOGGERS UNDERDOG SESSI ON NO. 1( NO SPONSORED OR RANKED SURFERS) MAY22ND/23RD = BLU NO. 2.SAUNTON CLASSI C,NORTH DEVON J UNE5TH/6TH = 10TH BRI TI SH LONGBOARD CLUB CHAMPI ONSHI PS. -SAUNTON SANDS,NORTH DEVON. J UNE12TH/13TH = RESERVEBRI TI SH LONGBOARD CLUB CHAMPI ONSHI PS. J UNE19TH = 60`S TRADI TI ONALSTYLEMASTERS ( CLUB BEACH BBQ) OPEN I NVI TE.TRADI TI ONALSURFI NG ONL Y. J UNE26TH/27TH = BLU NO. 3 MI DSUMMER CLASSI C,WATERGATE,NEW QUAY. J UL Y3RD = HOTDOGGERS LEAGUENO. 3.( BEACH BBQ) J UL Y4TH = HOTDOGGERS UNDERDOG SESSI ON NO. 2. ( NO SPONSORED OR RANKED SURFERS. ) J UL YDATETBC.= J UNI OR TRAI NI NG CAMP-CORNWALL.

Themaj or i t yofwat erc ompani esar e t r y i ngt oes c apeenv i r onment al r egul at i onss etf ort hous andsoft hei rCSOs .

Thes ec ompani esar eAngl i anWat er , Yor k s hi r eWat er ,Wel s hWat er / Dwr Cy mr u,ThamesWat erandSev er nTr ent Wat er .

SEPTEMBER 4TH = HOTDOGGERS LEAGUENO.4. ( BEACH BBQ. ) SEPTEMBER 25TH/26TH = BLU NO. 4.SUNSETSURFCLASSI C, GW I THI AN. OCTOBER 2ND = HOTDOGGERS LEAGUENO. 5 ( CURRY NI GHT)

OCTOBER 23RD = CLUB VS CLUB TAG TEAM CONTEST.SAUNTON. SHORTBOARD OPEN CONTEST. OCTOBER 23RD = HOTDOGGERS END OFSUMMER BALL.( OPEN I NVI TE. ) COOK I SLAND,MULLACOTTCROSS.

Cl eanwat erc ampai gner sSur f er s Agai ns tSewage( SAS)gr eet edwat er c ompanyex ec ut i v eswi t ht hewal kof s hameast heyent er edt heappeal hear i ngont he21s tJ anuar yi nCar di f f .

6wat erc ompani esar et r y i ngt odef end t hei ndef ens i bl e,appeal i ngagai ns tdes i gnat eddi s c har gec ons ent sf or4, 000 c ombi nes ewerov er f l ows( CSOs ) .SAS wer ear medwi t hagi ant6f tby4f tphot o ofaCSO c l oggedf ul l ofs ani t ar yt owel s , c ondoms ,c ot t onbudss t i c k sandmor e.

CONTACTS. HOTDOGGERS= 07787 906525.NORMAN WRIGHT PORTHCAWL= 07863 749457.STEVEHORN BLU = 07970 955658.MINNOW GREEN

Whi l s tt hemaj or i t yoft he20, 000CSOsi n Engl andandWal eshav es eens ome i mpr ov ementandoper at eunderadi s c har get oc ons ent ,t her ear emanyt hat s t i l l oper at eont hei rownt er ms ,c aus i ng unk nownenv i r onment al damage.Thes e unr egul at edCSOswer egi v ent empor ar y l i c enc es ,k nownasdeemedc ons ent s ,t o hel ps peedupt hepr oc es sofpr i v at i s i ng t hewat eri ndus t r y20y ear sago.

Thewat eri ndus t r yk newt hen,t hatat s omepoi nt ,t hes eunr egul at edCSOs woul dhav et obebr oughti nt ol i neand ear l i ert hi sy eart heEnv i r onmentAgenc y s etaboutt het as kofi s s ui ngnewc ondi t i onsf ort hei rus e.

TheEnv i r onmentAgenc yc ondi t i onsdo notr equi r eex c es s i v ei nv es t menty et , af t er20y ear sofl eni enc y ,r at hert han embr ac et hedec i s i onwi t hgoodgr ac e t hewat erc ompani esi nv ol v edhav e appeal edagai ns t94% oft hedi s c har ge c ons ent s !

SASar ef ur i oust hatt hes ec ompani es bel i ev et heys houl dbeal l owedt o c ont i nuet opol l ut ewi t houtf earofpr os ec ut i on.They ’ v ehadt went yy ear snot i c e t hatt hes eCSOswi l l hav et ober egul at ed,y etr at hert hanf ac et hemus i c , t heyc hoos et opr ot es tenmas s .

SAShaswr i t t ent ot heSec r et ar yofSt at e f ort heEnv i r onmentt oex pr es sour c onc er nbot hf ort heenv i r onmentand publ i cheal t hs houl dt hewat erc ompani esbes uc c es s f ul i nt hei rappeal .

AndyCummi ns ,SASCampai gnDi r ec t or s ay s :“ ByAppeal i ngt hes edi s c har ges t hewat erc ompani esar eas k i ngf ora f r eer ei nt opol l ut eours easandr i v er s , t hat ’ snotappeal i ngt ous !Thewat er c ompani eshav ehad20y ear st os or tt hi s out ,i nt hatt i met hey ’ v eenj oy ed hands omepr of i t s ,i s n’ ti taboutt i met hey l ook edaf t ert heenv i r onmentandpubl i c heal t haswel l ast hei rbot t om l i ne. ”

The Way ofthe Glue Up Wi t hJ i m Phi l l i ps

T hei nc ept i onoft hedes i gni spur e Bi l l yHami l t on,aSur f boar dsHawai i St yl i s tI ,t heor i gi nals ur f ert hatSk i p F r yewant edt obe.I ' v ehadt hi s c onc epti nmi ndf oral ongt i me, buthadnev erbr oughti tt of r ui t i on.

A 9' 9"USBl ank sf oam c or ewasmy s t ar t i ngpl ac e.WhenIr ec ei v ednot i c e t hatIwasbei ngc ons i der edf ort he Bi l l abongev ent ,t hei deac amet ot he s ur f ac eonc eagai n-Is k et chedi tout r oughl yandt hens t ar t eds er i ous l y pl ot t i ngi tout .

T hedec i s i ont oac t ual l yputs aw t of oam wast hef i r s t obs t ac l e,butasmydear l ydepar t edf at hers ai dt ome manyt i mes ," T hedevi lhat esac owar d. �T hef i r s tf ew c ut swer eeas y,butasIs t ar t edt ogo" ar oundt he c or ner "t hi swaswher edi f f i c ul t ys t ar t edt os t epi nt o t hepi c t ur e.T her ewasnoeas ywayt ous ec l ampson t hi sl ayout .Ihav e6, 8and10f ootpi pec l ampsand bybut t i ngt hem agai ns tt het i psoft heal r eadygl ued s t i ck s ,Ic oul dgetabi t eont henear l ys t r ai ghtout l i ne.

Whenal l17s t r i nger swer ei npl ac e,I nextneededt oi ns t al lt he" s un"whi ch neededt obemechani c al l yac c ur at es o f r eehandi ngi twasoutoft heques t i on.I hav es ev er alpr of es s i onalbi gr out er ss oI madeat empl at et or out et hec ur v eac c ur at el yi nt ot hebl ank.T her epl ac ement pi ec eoff oam neededt obeat r uear c , but3/32ndss mal l eri ndi amet ert o ac c ommodat et her edwoods t i ckt hat woul ds epar at ei t ,k i ndofl i k ean annul us ,f r om t her es toft hedes i gn.T hi s wasac c ompl i s hedbyt ak i ngapi ec eof ol dWal k erF oam ands hapi ngi tt ot he s amec ur v eandgl ui ngi t ,al ongwi t ht he woodi nt ot hebl ank.

I twasnow t i met ol ayt heSt yl i s tI t empl at eont hebl ankandputs aw t o f oam andc ut outt hepl ans hape.Wi t h penc i lonf oam t hec i r c ul ars aw wasput i nt opl ayandt hepl ans hapec amet ol i f e.

Wi t ht heout l i nec utIwoul dnor mal l y c l eant heout l i newi t ht hepl aner ,but woodgr ai n90degr eest ot hepl aner wasaguar ant eedbl ow outoft he s t r i ngerends .F or t unat el yIhav ea c ar bi degr i tpl anerandus edt hi st ok eep t heout l i nec l eanandf r eeofs pl i nt er i ng.

Onc ei twast i met ogett owor kwi t ht he pl aner ,t hev er ynat ur eoft hedes i gnhadi t s ownpr obl ems ;t hes t r i ngerl ayoutmadet he bl ankv er yf l exyi nt hec ent erandt he amountofs t r i nger saswel last hev ar i ed angl eswasanot herc onc er nf ort hebl ades .

T hebl ankhadt obebal anc edov ermy s hapi ngs t andsi napar t i c ul arwayt ohel p c ont r olt hef l ex.T oc ont r olt hes t r i ngerbl ow out sors pl i nt er i ngIus edt her egul arpl aner wi t hnewl ys har penedbl adest or oughout t heboar dandt henIpul l edoutt hec ar bi de gr i tpl aneragai nt odoal lt hef i ni s hwor k.

Af t eral lt hepl anerwor kwasdone,t hebl ock s andi ngwentf ai r l yf as tf orwhati twas-Ihad pr eppedi twel landk new whatwasi ns t or ef or mys el fheadi ngi nt ot hef i nals t r et ch.

T hef i nf ol l owedt hes amedes i gnast hebl ank whi chIl ai dupwi t hv ol anc l ot h,t hes ameas t heboar dsgl as s i ng,r edwood,f oam and pi gment .I twasc ompl et edi n2days . . . j us ti n t i me.

“T hi si snott heMi chaelAngel o' sSi s t i ne Chapel ,butnev er t hel es s ,amas t er pi ec eby anyoneʼ sexpec t at i ons . " Conc ept .Gl ueup.Shape.RedGl os sCol or .Fi n.

ByJ i m Phi l l i ps F oam 9ʼ 9”byUSBl ank s .

Ai r br us hs unc ol oronf oam bySam Cody .

Fi nl ami nat i onandgl os sbyKei t hSwans on.

Vol anl ami nat i onbyAl exVi l l al obos Gl os sbyBr i anJ ohns on Pol i s hedbyT r ac yEv ans .

T hewoodi sol dgr owt hr edwoods al v agedf r om a20't al lwi nec as kt hatus edt ohous eCabi n t heSant aCr uzmount ai ns .T hewoodwass o s oak edwi t hr edwi nef r om ov ert heyear st hat mi l l i ngt hewoodgav eof fas t r ongr edwi ne ar oma.T hi sboar dwoul dgogr eatwi t ha2l bs Kober i beyeandheadhi ghwav es .

S riLanka

WinterWarmers. . .

I t ’ swi nt erandast hecol dset si nmymi ndt urnst o,hi bernat i on, butseei ngasI ’ m notahedgehogandIhaveabl addert hesi zeof apea,sl eepi ngunt i li twarmsupi soutoft hequest i on. Sol i ke mostofusl ooki ngf orwarmerwat erwasonmymi nd.

I ’ vebeent oSriLankat wi cebef or eandknew i twel l ,i t ’ sabeaut i f ulcount rywi t hgr eatwaves,f ri endl ypeopl eandmosti mport ant l y i t scheap!

Af ri endofmi neMat tWhi t l eyhadneverbeenona‘ boar di es’surf t ri pbef or eandhadbooked3weeksoutt her eal r eadysoIdeci ded t oj oi nhi m.

Not hi ngpr epar esyouf oryourar ri vali nat hi r dwor l dcount ry especi al l ywheni t ’ syourf i r stt i me. Fr eshof ft hepl anei n Col ombowi t hasur pri si ngl ysmoot hpi ckupwewer eheadi ng sout hst r ai ghti nt oCol omboci t y,bangont heaf t ernoonr ushhour .

I t ’ shor ri bl eyetyoucan’ thel pbutbei nt er est ed,r eal l yhot ,r eal l y busy,car s,t ukt uks,andbuseseverywher ewi t hmor esmel l sand soundst hanyoucandi gest . Ourdri vermakeshi swaysl owl y t hr ought hemayhem,Mat ti shangi ngoutt hewi ndow t aki ng phot os,youcan’ thel pbutwonderhow wedon’ tcr ash. 160km or abumpy5hour sl at erwear ri veatEasyBeachguesthouse. I t ’ s l at e,i t ’ sbeenal ongj ourneyandwebot hneedabeer ,weexi tt he busandar ehi tbyawaveofheat .I t ’ snott heki ndt hatsapsyour ener gyort hat ’ suncomf ort abl e,i t ’ sj ustri ghtandmyt hought sof hi bernat i onhavet urnedt ot heswel l .

Ther e’ ssomegr eatwavesi nt hear eabutnot hi ngt oseri ousor chal l engi ngmaki ngi taperf ectl ongboar der sdest i nat i on. The nextmorni ngatsunri sewear eup,put t i ngf i nsi nboar dsand pr epari ngt ohi tt hewat er .Ther ear esomegr eatwavesoutf r ont butt her e’ sabi ggerspotcal l ed‘ t her ock’ashortt ukt ukdri ve away. Ont hej ourneyt her eyoucan’ thel pf eelt hatexci t ement knowi ngt hati nmi nut esyou’ l lbehi t t i ngt hewarm surf ,addedt o t hi swast heext r asenset hatt hi swasMat t ’ sf i r steversurfi n boar dshort st hatdi dn’ tr equi r el eavi ngt hebeachwr appedi na spacebl anket . Thewaveswer epumpi ng,4f tcl eanl i nesandonl y 2guysout ,wepaddl edl i keourl i vesdependedoni tandsatout backwai t i ngf ort hef i r stsett oshow ont her ock. I ’ mr emi nded st r ai ghtawaywhyIl ovet hi spl ace,ani cewavepeaksupandMat t andIbot hpaddl espl i t t i ngt hepeak,whi l eIenj oyal ongwal l i ng l ef twi t hl ot sofr oom f ort urnsMat tt akest heri ght ,ashort ermor e hol l ow wavewhi chhespentmostoft het ri pt ryi ngt obackdoor wi t hagooddegr eeofsuccess.

Ther ear eal lsort sof wavesi nt hear ea r angi ngf r om Saunt on l i kebeachbr eakst ot he occasi onalheavy shal l ow r eef ,al li ncl ose pr oxi mi t ymaki ngi teasy t osurfsever albr eaksi n oneday. Whenour bodi esal l owedwesurf3 t i mesadayl eavi ngus wi t hspaghet t iarmsmost eveni ngst hatwer eof f set wi t hbi gsmi l es.

Byday3i thadt urnedi nt oadr eam t ri p,i twasdoubl e overheadont heset s,cl eanandt hi sr eal l yt hi nnedt he cr owd,t her ewer esomegr eatwavescomi ngt hr oughand i topensupaf ew ext r abr eaksasal lt her eef scome al i ve.

SriLankaal sohassomegr eatcul t ur alexperi ences t her e’ sl ot st odobesi dessurf i ng,butl i keanyot her t ouri stdest i nat i oni thasi t sar easf orconcern.Af t erI l ef t ,Mat tmadeat ri pt ot heci t yofGal l ef amousf ori t s f ortandCri cketgr ound,whi cht heEngl i sht eam r egul ar l ypl ayat . Onasi t eseei ngt ourhewast akent oa Jewel l eryshopt hatt heyl ockedhi mi n,asnakef arm who’ sownerhadl osthi sf i nger st osnakebi t es,anda Mor ri sMi norf act oryt hatconsi st edofagar agewi t ht wo car si ni t ,andgi vent hatt heyhaven’ tbeenmadef or year si twasal lqui t eamusi ng. Ther oadsar eanot her st ory,anyonewhohaseverbeent oSriLankawi l lt el l yout hatSriLankan’ sr el yonahi gherpowert okeep t hem saf eont her oadswhi chf ort hemostpartkeeps youl aughi ngi nf earasyounar r owl yescapedeat hi na3 wheel erbutal lt oor egul ar l yyouar er emi ndedoft he danger s,asyoupassbusesburi eddeepi nt owal l sand ot herobvi ousl yseri ousi nci dent st hatseem t odr aw cr owdsf r om nowher e. I fyoudon’ tl i ket her oadst hen t her e’ sal wayst het r ai ns,t heyar echeapandsur pri si ngl ypunct ual .I fyougethotyoucanal wayssi tout si de wi t heveryoneel se! Dodgydayt ri psasi de,SriLanka hasl ot st oof f er . Ther ear et empl es,nat i onalpar ks, wi l dl i f eeverywher e,wat erf al l s,l akes,Jungl esandbeaut i f ulscenery,t hef ood’ spr et t ygoodt oo.

Ast het ri pwentonwesurf edal mostal lt hel ocalspot s, metsomegr eatpeopl eandsaw someamazi ngsi t es.

Count ri esl i keSriLankahavehadi thar di nr ecentyear s butt heyar ebounci ngbackandwi t ht hewarovert her e’ s neverbeenasaf ert i met oscor et hoseperf ectwi nt er waves. Ast heendofmyt ri pnear edt hesurfdr opped of ft o23f tsowi t hanachi ngbodyandagr umpyf aceI mademywaybackt ot hecol dt odr eam upanot her advent ur e.

Fl i ght scostabout£450r et urnwi t h SriLankanai r l i nesandaccommodat i on r angesf r om £5t o£60perni ght .

C a l i f o r n i a wi th Ki ndt Achi l e

I t’ snotal wayseasy t of i ndTHE per f ectl ocat i onf or yournextsur ft r i p:consi st ence, somer ayssoIcanwor konmy t an,r i ghtpr i ceet c.

I fyoul ookati tt hi sway-I t ’ snot easyatal l !

Outofal lt hesur ft r i psIever pl anned( orgotpl annedbymy mum anddad)t hi sonewast he bestonesof ar .I thadever yt hi ngI want ed:gr eatweat her ,per f ectsur f andf r i endl yl ocal s -t hi scoul dn’ t beCALI FORNI A coul di t ?

Wet r avel l edt hecoast( hi ghway 101)i naVWbussear chi ngf ort he per f ectsessi on.

Oursaf ar ibegani nSanDi ego, whi chdi dn’ tappeart obean at t r act i vest ar t .I t ’ sgothugebui l di ngs;l oadsoft r af f i c,j ustl i keany ot herbi gci t y.

Butonceyour eacht hecoast ,i t f eel sl i keyou’ r ei nat ot al l ydi f f er entpl ace;f ant ast i ccl i f f sandwor l d cl assbr eaksl i keLaJol l aand Bl acks.

Wepi cked‘ paci f i cbeach’ast he l ocat i onf orourf i r stsessi on.I fbi g

enoughi tgi vesyouagood300m l ongsmoot hwaveonwhi chyou cangl i deandl ookati mpr ovi ng yourt echni que.Thesl ow wave al l owedmet i met opr act i ceand per f ectmymoves.

Wef oundagr eatpl acet opar k t hecamperj ustneart hebeach.

Thi sr eal l ygaveusagoodr eason t ost ayher ef ormostofourt r i p.

Waki ngupwi t h‘ Car di f fReef ’asa vi ew wasar ealbonus.Wewer e ‘ guest s’atCar di f fandPi pes ( Oceansi de)f ort henext4days andheadedof ft oNor t hOr ange Count yaf t ert hat .A r ealcr owd pl easerwasMi ddl eTr est l es,a popul arl ongboar dspotwi t honl y 5guysoutandt hi swasona weekend! ! ! !Okay,t hewal kf r om t hepar ki ngt ot hebeachwas about20mi nut esl ongbutt hi s wasnot hi ngcompar edt ot he ‘ musthave’–r i ght hander .

F o r g e tt h e e x p e n s i v e t r i p st ot h e Ma l d i v e s . . . ‘ I t ’ sGOOD. ’That ’ swhatIhear d f r om anol dguyaswewer e wai t i ngatt r af f i cl i ght s,about5 mi nut esf r om Topazst r eet . ‘ What ’ sGood???’Iasked. ‘ Wel lt hewaveofcour se. ’he answer edwi t hasmi l eonhi s f ace.

Ever yonet al ksaboutt hesur for somewat erspor t sact i vi t yi n Cal .Compar edt oBel gi um, Cal i f or ni ar eal l yhasagenui ne sur fcul t ur e,sur fshopsonever y cor ner ,guysgoi ngi nandoutof t heocean,aSur fmuseum i n

al mostever yci t y.Cal i f or ni ahas br eakt hatshout ed‘ STYLE’ aSURF CULTURE t odi ef or . f r om st ar tt of i ni shandst i l l st ayedr i ppabl e.Kneehi ght o Nextst op:MALI BU. t r i pl eover head??Ri ncon Somesayi t ’ st hebestl i t t l e r ocksatanysi ze! r i ght handeri nt hewor l d.Wel l , Iwi l lnotar guewi t ht hat .

For gett heexpensi vet r i pst o Per f ectl i t t l enoser i di ngwave, t heMal di ves,t hel ongf l i ght s i t ’ sever yl ongboar der sdr eam. t oAust r al i aorNewZeal and, Toobadt hati t ’ sazoowheni t ’ s i nmyopi ni onSout her nCal i on.Onewor d:‘ CROWDED’ . f or ni ai st hepl acet obe!

Mal i buwasl ooki nggoodt oget t he‘ bestsur fspotawar d’but t henwemet‘ t heQueenoft he alt hankst oMar i oMaj or coast ’RI NCON.A per f ectpoi nt Speci f ort r ansl at i ngt het ext

Bi ogr aphy: Name:Ki ndtAchi l e Age:16 Nat i onal i t y:Bel gi an Year sofl ongboar di ng:3 St ance:r egul ar Sponsor s:Qui ksi l verandKust om f oot wear Homebr eak:Twi nscl ub( Br edeneci t y) Favor i t ebr eaks:Ri nconPoi ntCA,Twi nscl ub Favor i t esur f er :DanePi ol i Favor i t et r i cks:noser i dei nt of i nf i r st( wor ki ngoni t ) Qui ver :t woSt ewar tboar ds9’ 1 Goal s:2ndonBel gi anchampi onshi psofsur f i ng( l ongboar dmen)i n2009 Tar get :Par t i ci pat eandScor eont heEur opeant ourofl ongboar d( ETL)i n2010

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Aboutt heBoar d

Roy al9’ 2Doubl eWi ngQuadLongboar d

DemoCondi t i ons

Headhi ghc l eanwav esatWes t war dHo!

TheTest

I t ’ sac ol dwi nt er ss es s i on.I ’ mi nt hats or tofWi nt erWeek end onl ys ur ff r ameofmi nd.I t ’ sal s ot hef i r s ts ur ft hatIhav ehad s i nc ebr eak i ngmyank l ei nOc t ober .Ther es eemst obeal ot t ot hi nkabout .

Pr i mar i l yI ’ m wonder i ngwhatt hehel laQuadLongboar dwi t h s uc hapr onounc edr earendi sgoi ngt obel i k e.Wel lmay be i t ’ sobv i ousbutt her eal i t yandt het houghtc oul dbev er y di f f er ent .Theot hert hi ngt hatI ’ mt hi nk i ngabouti st he r oc k er .Thenos et hr oughf i r s t2/ 3r dsi spr et t yf l atwi t hs ome k i c ki nt het ai l .I t ’ st hi st hatIf i r s tnot i c epaddl i ngout !The nos el ook sl i k ei t ’ spoi nt i ngdowni nt ot hewat er !Wi t habi g paddl ei nf r ontofmeI ’ m wonder i nghoworev eni fI ’ l lmak ei t outbac k !

Wel laf t erwhats eemst obeoneoft hos et y pi c alWes t war d Ho!hel lpaddl esIgetoutbac kagood45mi nut esaf t erf i r s t get t i ngi n!I ’ mk nac k er ed! ! !Af t erwhats eemsl i k et ak i ng anot her45mi nut esj us tt ogetmybr eat hbac ki t ’ st i met oget t het es ts t ar t ed.Thewav esar ec omi ngt hr oughni c el y of f er i ngabi tofs t eepnes si nt hef ac et ogetmegoi ng.The f i r s tdr opf el ti mmens e!May beI ’ mr us t yaf t ernos ur ff or12 week s !Theboar dr es pondedal mos ti ns t ant l yt ot hebot t om t ur n,may beal otf as t ert hanIex pec t edasI ’ mi nt oat opt ur n al otqui c k ert hanIex pec t ed.Theboar df eel sl i k ei twant st o t ur nandt ur nf as t !AsIheaddownt hel i neI ’ m awar et hatt he s peedi sgood.It hent hr owt heboar di nt oabi gr oundhous e.

Agai ni t ’ sal lhappeni ngv er yf as t .ButwhatI ’ mr eal l yawar e ofi smyweakank l e! ! !

Thenex tf ewwav esar eagai nal laboutex per i ment i ngwi t h t het ur ni ngandc hec k i ngt hes peed,es pec i al l yt r y i ngt obeat as ec t i onort wo.Al li sv er yr es pons i v e.Nex tupc omess ome t i pt i me.Thi si sal oteas i ert hanIex pec t ed.Theboar dhol ds t hel i neni c el yandi seas yt os etupf ort henos er i der .It hi nk al s ot hatt het ai lwi l lc omeoutoft hewav ev er yeas yt ot es t myabi l i t yt ohel i c opt er ! ! !

I t ’ sgr eatt obei nt hewat erandt heboar dgoesbet t ert hanI ex pec t ed!Iwasmay beal i t t l ei nt i mi dat edbyt hehi ghper f or manc edes i gnoft hi sboar d,buti tc ar r i esac er t ai nf l owt oi t t haty ous oonbec omec omf or t abl ewi t h.

Pr os

Li ght ,r es pons i v eandv er ygoodl ook i ng!

Cons

I t ’ saper f or manc eLongboar d–s oi tt ak esal i t t l eget t i ng us edt o.Li ghtGl as s i ng.

TheVer di ct

Royal 9'2 Double Wing Quad Longboard...

As t unni ngpi ec eofc r af t s mans hi pf r om RobatRoy al Sur f boar ds .I t ’ sex ac t l yhowIwant edi t .Robi sv er ys uppor t i v ei nt hedes i gnpr oc es sandc anputt hos et oget heri na boar dt hati soutoft hi swor l d.5St ar sal lr ound.

*****

Aboutt heBoar d

9’ 6Gul fSt r eam Nos er i der–i nGl i t t er edPur pl e!

DemoCondi t i ons

3f tandl eanatSaunt on.

The Platypus Longboard...

Aboutt heBoar d

ThePl at y pusi sas ur f boar ddes i gni ns pi r edbys nowboar ds par abol i c st hatwasor i gi nal l ydes i gnedbyChopsasa6' 0" s hor t boar d.Fr om 9' 0t o10' 0t hi ss ur f boar di nc l udesaf ul l nos ec onc av e,s ubs t ant i alt ai ll i f tandaSpi r alVeeordoubl e c onc av ebot t om des i gnwi t haf i nboxands i def i nsc ombi nat i on.Si z e9’ 0ast es t ed.

DemoCondi t i ons

Saunt onSands–3f t ,c l eanandbus y !

TheTest

Thef i r s tt hi ngaboutt hi sboar di st hatev er y ones t ar esaty ou asy ouwal kdownt hebeac h.Ther ei sj us tnowher et ohi dei n t hef ac tt haty ouar ec ar r y i ngaboar dt hati st ot al l youtoft he ‘ Nor m’ !Thes hapef i t sundert hear m ni c el yandi seas yt o c ar r y .Noov er l ywi dec ent r epi ec et ot es ty ourar ms t r et c h! ! !

I tpaddl esl i k eanyot herboar d.I t ’ saboar dt hatduc kdi v es wi t heas e!Nott hatIneededt oi nt hes ec ondi t i ons !Any way onc eoutbac kands i t t i ngont heboar d,y ouagai nnot i c ea di f f er enc e!I t ’ snar r ower !Andf eel ss l i ght l ys t r ange!

Theboar dpaddl eswel landi t ’ seas yt oc at c hwav es .Wi t h t hef unnypoi nt edt ai lt heboar dt ur nswi t heas e,j us tpi v ot i ng ofy ourbac kf oot .Thebac kf ootc ont r ol st hedi r ec t i on c ompl et el y .Buti tal s ohass omepoi s et hatmak esnos er i di ng al oteas i ert hany ouex pec t .

FormeIhadal otoff unont heboar d.I tdi dev er y t hi ngt hatI as k edf r om i tanddi di twel l .Thes hape/ des i gni ss t r angebut I ’ m gl adIhadago!

Pr os

I t ’ saneas yboar dt or i de!It hi nki twoul ds ui ts omeone c omi ngf r om as hor tboar dt oal ongboar d!Tur nsl i k eadr eam butc anal s ot ak et henos er i di ng.

Cons

I tj us tl ook ss t r ange!Andev er y ones t ar esaty ou!

TheVer di ct

Woul dl ov et ot ak et hi souti ss omebi gj ui c ywav es !Lot sof f un.I ’ m nots ur ei fi twoul dc at c honbutI ’ dc er t ai nl yl i k eone f oral ongt er mt es t !

****

TheTest

Okt hi swasamat esboar dt hatIhadbeenl us t i ngagoonf or ages !Fi nal l yanoppor t uni t yt obec heek yandas kf oral oan andt es t !Formet hi swasaboar dt hatnotonl yl ook sgood( I mi ghtbeas uc k erf orpur pl eher e! )butal s oev er yt i meIhav e s eeni ti nt hewat erhasbeendoi ngt hebus i nes s .

Thi si st het y peofboar dt hatf eel sl i k ey ourt y pi c alnos er i der , heav y ,wi deandl ong.I t ’ st hes or tofboar dt hatdemandst o ber i ddennol eas handt haty ouex c er ptal i t t l es t y l eon!

Soasal i k eanynos er i deri tpaddl esl i k eadr eam,bot hout andi nt owav es .Theboar dj us teas esi nt ot hebot t om t ur n andt hent henos ej us ts or t as c r eamsaty out ogets omet oes hangi ngov er .Thet ai l sj us thol dsi nandt hewi dt hgi v esi t t hats t abi l i t yt ogi v ey ouoddl esofc onf i denc ewhi l s thangi ng s omepi nk i esov er .

Pr os

Beaut i f ul ,f un,doesex ac t l ywhati ti smeantt o.

Cons NONE

TheVer di ct

Thi si st hes or tofboar dt hatmak esy ous mi l e.I t ’ st hemos t f unt haty ouc anhav ei nones es s i on.Iwasdy i ngt ot es tand i tj us tdoes n’ tdi s appoi nt .I twass ogoodIof f er edt obuyi t af t ert hes es s i on!Gogety our s el v esonemadeNOW! ! ! !Bi g t hank st oGuyf orl et t i ngmet es tt hi sone!

*****

The Gulf Stream Noserider...

The Curve Leash...

Leas hesar eal labouts af et y ,c omf or t ,r el i abi l i t yanddur abi l i t y , whi c hi swhyCur v eus et hebes tav ai l abl emat er i al sand s uper i orwor k mans hi p,ac c ompani edbyt hor ought es t i ngi nal l c ondi t i ons ,t obr i ngy oual eas ht hatr eal l yout per f or mst he c ompet i t i oni nal lr es pec t s .

Theyhav eaddedaneas ypul lt abandex t r awi dt hank l ec uf ff or max i mum c omf or tandeas eofus e.

Cur veLeashf eat ur es: • • • • • • • • • • •

5mm doubl el ay erank l ec uf fpr ov i dess uper i orc omf or t Doubl eSt ai nl es sSt eels wi v el Fus i onmoul dedc or dends Pr emi um s t r engt hv el c r o Pr emi um gr adeex t r as t r ongur et hanec or d Gr ubs c r ewc onnec t or s Det ac habl et r i pl ewr apr ai l s av er Wi de2.

5"c uf ff orex t r as uppor t Eas ygr abpul lt ab Cl ear+c ol ourc or d I nt egr alk eypoc k et

The Urbanz Laptop Sleeve...

New-Neopr eneLapt opSl eeve Pi nki sal way si nf as hi on–s oi sbl ac k !Thi sf ul l yr ev er s i bl e neopr enel apt ops l eev ei sdes i gnedwi t houtas eam i none c ompl et epi ec et ol ookex ac t l yt hes amewhet herpi nkorf ul l y r ev er s edt obl ac k .Per f ec tf orwor kandpl ay ,t hi sUr banz s l eev eal s ohasanembeddedz i ppers oi twon’ ts c r at c hl apt op orhands .Av ai l abl ei nar angeofs i z est os ui tmos tl apt opsand netbook s .

Al lpr oduc t sar eav ai l abl ef r om www. ur banz . c o. ukwi t hf r eeP&P i nt heUK. Anodr amal i f et i meguar ant eei sal s oav ai l abl eon t hewebs i t e.

Ver di ct

Anex c el l entl eas ht hati sc omf or t abl et ous eandwear .Ihav e c onf i denc ei ni tev er ys es s i onr egar dl es soft hes i z e.

*****

The Urbanz Rockstar Travel Speaker...

New–Rockst arUSBTr avelSpeaker Al s oi nPi nk Smal landl oud( t hank st oav er yhi ghqual i t yampl i f i er )t hi s Roc k s t armi ni s peak erpr oduc esanout putex pec t edf r om amuc h l ar gerandmor eex pens i v es peak er .Roc k s t ari ss uppl i edpar t c har gedf ori mmedi at eus eandpr ov i desupt o4hour sofl i t hi um bat t er yl i f ewhenf ul l yc har ged( v i at heUSBc abl epr ov i dedf r om mai nsorc arUSBc har gerordi r ec tf r om l apt opUSBs oc k et ) .

I dealf ort r av elandex c el l entwi t hi Pod/ MP3/ Mus i cPhone/ Lapt op andmos tot herdev i c eswi t h3.

5j ac kc onnec t i on.Al r eady av ai l abl ei nbl ac kands i l v er ,Pi nkhasj us tbeenaddedt ot hel i ne upf oral lt hos epi nkf as hi oni s t as !

Al lpr oduc t sar eav ai l abl ef r om www. ur banz . c o. ukwi t hf r eeP&P i nt heUK. Anodr amal i f et i meguar ant eei sal s oav ai l abl eon t hewebs i t e.

Three Wise Men Two Snapped Boards and a Partridge in a Palm Tree

Eagert oabs or bt he‘ uni v er s i t yex per i enc e’ ,my f i r s tt er m atCar di f fwasf ul lofmanyt hi ngsex c epts ur f i ng and9o’ c l oc kl ec t ur es .For es eei ngt hi sl ac kofs ur f i ng,my f r i endGr egNor manandIbook edf l i ght swaybac ki n s ummert oAgadi r ,Mor oc c o,i nas omewhathal f c ut , s pur of t hemomentf ant as yov ers pendi ngt heChr i s t mas br eaki nwar merwat er s .TheThr eeWi s eMen’ sf es t i v e v oy agewasc ompl et edwi t hourgoodmat e,Fer gus Br adf or d-s oberandut t er l ypi s s edof fatt hef ac tt hatwe hadn’ tc ons i der edt hr eeweek saway( s t ar t i ngon16t h Dec ember )woul dmeanmi s s i ngf ami l yandf r i endsf or Chr i s t masandNewYear .

Myf i r stt er mf l ewby .Soonenoughi twast he ni ghtbef or eourf l i ght ,andweal lmetatFer g’ s–anx i ous l y wei ghi ngl uggageandduc tt api ngpol y t henegr owt unnel s ar oundboar dbags ,i nt hel i ghtofar ai nyf or ec as tt ot he ai r por ti nt hemor ni ng,andc onc er nedt heamountofc r ap wehadwoul dex c eedt he96k gc ombi nedhol dal l owanc e.

Af t erdi s c ar di ngunnec es s ar yl ux ur i ess uc hasGr eg’ sHead andShoul der s ,wes atdownt owat c hT ajwi nt hePi pef i nal -ampedt ogets omewav esour s el v es .Ats omeunnat ur al hourt hef ol l owi ngmor ni ngourt ok enc heek yf l i r t i ngwi t h t hel adyatAr r i v al sgotourbagsonboar dandt hi ngswent s moot hl yf r om t her et oAgadi r .

Haggl i ngdoesnotwor kwi t hEur opc ar ;y ouc an, howev er ,t wi s tapec ul i ar ,l ongbear dedman’ sar m att he ai r por tf orapr et t ygooddealons omet hi ngbas i c but s pac i ous ,whi c h( af t erdoubt i nghi sl egi t i mac y . . .and c onc l udi ngt her i s kwaswor t hi t )madeget t i ngf r omAt oB as i mpl epl eas ur e,es pec i al l yast ax i sar en’ ts uper c heap norhi t c hi ngr el i abl e.

Wai t i ngt ogr eetusatourf i naldes t i nat i on, T aghaz out ,ourf r i endDal eAdams( wor k i ngi nt hear eaas af r eel anc ei nwat erandl andphot ogr apher )hads or t ed ac c ommodat i onov er l ook i ngt hebeac hbet weenHas hand

Panor amapoi nt s .Mohammed,ourl andl or d,wasj us tone ofmanyi nt er es t i ngc har ac t er swewer et ogr owf ondof ov erours t ay .Anot her ,whot ookar eals hi ni ngt oFer g ( andweni c k namedGeor ge-af t ert hel as tpr es i dent-due t ohi sunc anni l ys i mi l arf ac e) ,wast hel oc alGar di en,whom y ouwi s el ypai dt ok eepaney eony ourc ar .Spor t i nghi s di s t i nc t i v es ai l or s ’hat24/ 7andami s c hi ev ousgr i nj us tas r el i abl e,hi si di os y nc r at i cc r yof“ Smaaaal l l ”wasc ons t ant l y hear dac r os st her oaduponhi ms pot t i ngFer g,andwi t h s uc hent hus i as my ouc oul dn’ thel pbutc huc k l e.

Af t ers neak i ngi nav er ymedi oc r e( y etgr at i f y i ngl y war m! )s ur fatPanor amasweheadedt ot hel oc alPi z z er i a att het opofourr oadf orf eedi ng.Ont hewaywewer e bombar dedbyMor oc c anss el l i ngany t hi ngandev er y t hi ng y ouc oul di magi ne,wi t ht henei ghbour hooddeal ers pewi ng hi shas hs t as hal lov ert hef l oori nwhatwasunques t i onabl yt hel eas ts moot hpr opos i t i onoft het r i p.Ont heway bac k ,af t erex pl ai ni ngnotal ls ur f er ss mok eandt hatwe wer ear oundf ort hr eeweek s ,wegotc hat t i ngt ot hemi ni ent r epr eneur swhoqui c k l ydr oppedt hei rhar ds el l ,“ Good pr i c e! ”t ac t i c s ,ands oonac c ept edusi nt ot hec ommuni t y .

Sur ft r i psatunif ol l ows i mpl epat t er ns :t hel ads andboar dsar ec r ammedi nt ot hebac kofs omepoor 3door ,of t enwi t houtr oom ev enf oras par et owel ,headt o s omeWel s hbeac hi eandc omeoutanhourl at ernumbed byt hef r eez i ngc ol dandt hes es s i on’ sf ut i l i t y .So,af t era t er ms t uc konas hor t boar d,Ic oul dhar dl yc ont ai nmy s el f att hepr os pec tofwar m,r eel i ngr i ght hander sonamal .

Mor oc c odi dnotpr ov et obet hatr el i ef .Wi t has ol i ds wel l f or ec as tasl ongasSeaweeddar est opr edi c t ,s es s i ons wer el es st her el ax i ngr i ght swe’ dhopedf orandmor e t r y i ngt oc omeouti nonepi ec e.Af t erar el at i v el yf l awl es s , dr y hai rt y pes es s i onatagood6’ Anc hor s ,3day si nt oour 3weekt r i p,Is nappedmyonl yl ogt hatev eni ngduc k di v i ng ar at herweakanduns at i s f y i ngBananaPoi nt .Thatr eal l y mar k edt hes t ar tofmor es hi tt of ol l ow.

Sewaget r eat menti nMor oc c oi s ,asf arasIc ant el l , pr et t ynonex i s t ent .Thewor s tf l oodsi nr epor t edl yasl ongas 50y ear sbat t er edourChr i s t masf ant as y . . .des pi t emak i ngt he bi gdayf eelmor ehomel y .Thes t or m mar c hedi nf r om wayout i nt heAt l ant i c ,br i ngi ngwi t hi tons hor esandr es ul t i nghol i day bor edom.Det er mi nedt omak et hemos toft heBr i t i s hc ondi t i ons ,i nt hek nowl edget hatatl eas tt hewat erwass t i l lwar mer , Iheadedout .St or mys ur fandabangi ngr i pbr oughtmequi c k l y bac ki n,andal lIs eemedt ogai nf r om t hes hor tout i ngwasa wets ui tandc hr oni c‘ Mor oc c anSt omac h’-c ons equent l yt he r eas onI ’ m onant i bi ot i c sasIwr i t e( amont hl at er ! ) .Thr ough c ui s i neorc ont ami nat edwat er ,nooneav oi deds i mi l ar( al bei t s omewhats hor t er t er med)i l l nes s ,whi c h-whent hel i ghthas br ok eni nabat hr oom wi t hawi ndowasus ef ulasmynew f ol dawayl ongboar d,l edt oi nt er es t i ngnoi s esandar omasi n t heapar t ment ,andadeepl yempat het i cs ens eofc amar ader i e. . .wel lhi ddenami ds tt hebant er .

Wi t hsewageput t i ngs ur foutoft heques t i onf orday s andouremer genc ys uppl yofDVDsex haus t ed,Gr egandIl ef t Fer gwi t hhi suni v er s i t ywor ki ns ear c hoft het our i s tt r ai lt o Agadi r ’ sgr eats ouk .Pr obabl ys t oppi ngatMc Donal d’ s ( unques t i onabl yt hec l eanes tr es t aur antar ound,andour c her i s hedl i t t l epi ec eofhomef r omhome)enr out e,wet r ac ed downt hes oukt obewel c omedi nt hec arpar kbyAbdul ,a s of t l y s pok enmanwai t i ngi nt hepour i ngr ai nwho,l i k ea t eac herwi t hagaggl eofpr ec i ouss c hoolk i ds ,s t oppedt r af f i c s owec oul dc r os st her oad.Hi swar m,f r i endl ygr i nwas i mmedi at el yc omf or t i ngaswef ol l owedhi mi nt ot heunf ami l i ar , hus t l i ngunder c ov ermaz et hatweast our i s t ss oughtt oex per i enc e.I tc er t ai nl ygav euss omet hi ngt ot al kabout .Thes mel l s wer e,i nal lr es pec t s ,awes ome.Fr om Mor oc c anVi agr a,an ex ot i c ,power f ul l y s c ent edmi xofs pi c est hes t al lowners wor e wor k edbutwoul dn’ tac c eptwedi dn’ twant ,t ot hes t enc hof unr ef r i ger at edmeatandt heani mal s ’put r i d,r ot t i ngf aec es .We c onf r ont edAbdulasweent er edt hemai ns quar eandqui c k l y c aughtont ot hef ac tt hathe,l i k eni ghonev er y oneel s e,was t r y i ngt omak emoneyoutofus .Hi sgent l ey etas s er t i ngr epl y “ Iwor kf ort hemar k etass ec ur i t yf ort our i s t s ”i ns t ant aneous l y hi thomet hef ac twehadnoi deawher ei nt hi smar k etwar r en wewer e,andhav i nghi m onboar dwasas hr ewdmov e.Abdul ’ s

aut hor i t ywaspal pabl e,asdemons t r at edwhenwegav ehi m t hemoneyt opaywayl es st hanhal fas t al l owner ’ sas k i ng pr i c eonapai rofhi deous ,br i ghty el l owl eat hers hoesf or ourdearf r i endMat t .Al t hought hepl ac ewasf as c i nat i ng,we hadnei t herdes i r enors pac eathomet obuyt hebi z ar r e Af r i c anar t ef ac t st hel oc al swer es opas s i onat eabout ,whi c h att i meswashar dwheny ous eet hec ondi t i onss omeoft he peopl el i v ei n.

Backatt hec ar ,Abdulabr upt l ypr oc l ai medt het our c os t100di r ham –eac h.That ’ st heequi v al entofar ound£16 f ort het woofusf oras hor tbr ows ear oundamar k et !

Feel i ngbet r ay edandgut t edbyt hi ss eemi ngl ygenui ne, f r i endl yf ac e,Gr egandIus edt hebar t er i ngt ec hni quesy ou needi nMor oc c o,and-angr yatt heman-gav ehi m 100and s omel oos ec hange( bear i ngi nmi ndheWASc onv i nc i ng s ec ur i t y ) ,andqui c k l yl ef t .

Ther unofbi gswel l sc ont i nued,wi t hGr egl os i ng hi sl ongboar dt os ol i dAnc hor sandal lofusf eel i ngpr et t y bat t er edy et c ont entget t i ngs ur fi ns ummers ui t s .Ther ai n c ameandwent ,andweal lgotal i t t l ebi toft het ant heot her t wowon’ tadmi tt os ear c hi ngf or .Dal eAdamsgui dedus down‘ t hegoatt r ac k ’t oKi l l er sonegl or i ousev eni ng;a hi ghr i s k ,hear t r ac i ng,s c r ambl et r av er s i ngt hec l i f ff ac e downt os eal ev el ,c l i max i ngwi t ht hemos tr ewar di ng ent r anc e,pas s i ngt hr oughabr eat ht ak i ngc av e,andt he mos tenj oy abl es ur foft het r i p.

Thegoodt i mesc ont i nuedt of l owwi t hpl ent ymor e r ewar di ngs ur f s ,butaf t ert woweek sofi l l nes sandt hr eeof Gr egl aughi ngathi sownj ok esl ef tonFac ebookwer eal l y wer er eadyt ogethome.Di s mi s s i ngMum’ si nc omi ngr epor t s ofs ev er eweat herwar ni ngsasherov er wor r y i ng,i tac t ual l y s t i l lc ameasas hoc kt of i ndourf l i ght swer ec anc el l edt he ni ghtbef or eourdepar t ur e.

Wednesdaymor ni ngofours c hedul edf l i ghthome wast hemos thec t i cofmyl i f e;wewer eal lr unni ngup mammot hphonebi l l ss eek i ngnewsr el ay edbet weenpar ent s andi ns ur anc ec ompani es ,as s es s i ngouropt i onsandt r y i ng t of or geapl ant ogethomet odomyc our s ewor kandbenef i t f r om s omedeepl ydes i r edBr i t i s hf oodandmedi c i nes .I nt he hopeofabr eaki nt hes now,wehas t i l ybook ednewf l i ght s f orFr i dayl eav i ngf r om Mar r ak ec h,andmadeourwayt ot he ai r por tt odr opbac kt her ent alc ar .Fr om t her eeas y J et t r ans f er r edust oMar r ak ec h.Wedr ear i l yar r i v edl at e Wednes dayni ghtatt hehot elwewer es t ay i ngi n,c our t es y ofSt el i os .Ex haus t ed,wef i l l edi nf or msf orourr oom k ey , whenGr egas k edwhat“ ét oi l es ”meanti nEngl i s h.Repl y i ng “ s t ar s ” ,Is awwher ehewasl ook i ngont hef or m,andr ai s ed myey esi ns hoc kt ot ak ei nt hes ur r oundi ngs :Ir eal i s edt he s pec t ac ul arr oom wewer ei nwast hef oy erofournew5s t ar di gs !Wi t houtac l eanpai rofundi esbet weenus ,Gr eg c hangedf r om hi sbeat erandwes heepi s hl ymadeourwayt o t he( f r ee! )al l y ouc aneatdi nner .

Ourt woni ght s,f ul l boar di nt hehot els hotpas t , andwegothomes af el yt hatFr i day .Aswi t ht he s ouk ,wes t oodoutl i k es or et humbsi nt hatpl ac e.

Thet r i pwasar ealey eopenert oex t r emes ; c omi ngf r om s omeoft hepoor es tenv i r onment s I ’ v eev ers eent ot hemos tex t r av agant ,t he s pec t r um ofweal t hac r os swhi c hev er y onel i v es r eal l ys t r uc kmeasc ompel l i ng,j us tast he abnor malweat herany wher e-bei ts noworr ai nbr i ngsl i f et oas t ands t i l l .

Tom Maj or

I ssue#1Commi ngSoon I nt er vi ew:Dav ePar gent er Tr avel :T eaupoo Opi ni on:Adam Zer v as

c o r d u r o yl i n e s

www. er r ant s ur f . c om

Feat ur es:Ki tT es t s Gal l er y Tut or i al s Ti psf orSUP

OXBOW WL T FI NAL -MALDI VES Past aPoi nt-Chaaya 26 –31 Oct ober2009

HARLEY I NGLEBY WI NS

THE OXBOW WORLD LONGBOARD TOUR FI NAL I N THE MALDI VES SKI NDOG 5t h & BLEAKERS9t h

Har l eyI ngl ey by

J ar edNeal

Pas t aPoi ntonChaay aI s l andi nt heMal di v esof f er edan unr i v al l edv enuef ort hef i nalev entoft heOx bowWor l d Longboar dT our .Hotwat erf ourf ootl ef t sr ef r ac t edl i k e s heetgl as sar oundt heat ol l ,br eak i ngi nt oc l ears har ds ofwat erf ort hedur at i onoft hec ompet i t i on.Butev enat apr edi c t abl ewav el i k ePas t aPoi nt ,whatt hewi l d, unf ur l i ngbodyoft heI ndi anOc eanof f er si ss ur pr i s e,t o whi c hl ongboar dc ont es ts ur f er smus tr es pondt hr ough i mpr ov i s at i on,adapt abi l i t yandi magi nat i on,ast hey per f or m el oquentnos er i desandex pl os i v et ur ns .I nt he 32mank noc k outev ent ,r oundones awSennen’ sSam Bl eak l eydef eatBr az i l i anCar l osBahi ai nf l ui ds t y l e.

Per r anpor t h’ sBenSk i nnerwasupagai ns tr i v al Eur opean,Al ex i sDeni elf r om Fr anc e.Sk i nnerwas ex c ept i onal ,s c or i ngan8.

25,weav i ngr adi c alpat t er ns ont hef ac es ,andmak i ngat ot alwav es c or eof15.

00t o beatDeni el .“ Thi si saper f ec tper f or manc ewav e, ”s ai d Sk i ndogaf t erwi nni nghi sheat ,“ s oIboughtaqui v erof mySk i ndogSur f boar dswi t hmor er ef i nedr ai l sf orr eal l y qui c kt ur ni ng,j us tk eepi ngt heboar dt hi c k nes si nt he mi ddl ef ors peed,s t r engt handpaddl i ng.Theywor k ed gr eat . ” I nr oundt wot hec ondi t i onst ur nedc r os s s hor e,s o mak i ngr hy t hm f r om t hec hopwasc r uc i alast hel ong l ef t sunr av al l edi ns ec t i ons .Ac l os el yf oughtheats aw Sam Bl eak l eyj us tl os eoutt oEduar doBagéf r om Br az i l , butSam wass t ok edwi t ha9t hpl ac ef i ni s h.Sk i ndogwas upagai ns tr ei gni ngOx bowWor l dChampi onandl ongt i mes ur f i ngher o,BongaPer k i ns .Unf az edbyt hebi g oc c as i on,Sk i ndogr es pondedwi t hhi st r ademar kt ot al c ommi t ment ,nev erhol di ngbac k ,andr ac i ngaf ul lhang t eni nt hes weets potoft hec ur l ,t hens et t i ngl oos eona s er i esofr api df i r et ur nst owi nt heheati ns t y l e. “ Bongai sal egendofours por tandIhav eabs ol ut e r es pec tf ort heguy , ”s ai danel at edSk i ndog.“ ButIwent i nc onf i dentofwi nni ngt oday .Ihaddef eat edhi m r ec ent l yatt heWor l dSur f i ngGamesi nCos t aRi c a,and outt her eIf el tr eal l ywel ls ui t edt ot hewav e,s oIk newI c oul ddoi t . ”

I ns emif i nalt woAus t r al i anHar l eyI ngl ebywasagai ns t Fr enc hmanAnt oi neDel per o.Aber t hi nt hef i nalguar ant eedhi m enoughov eral lpoi nt st owi nt het our ,and s uddenl yt he26y earol df r om Cof f sHar bourwast he Ox bowWor l dLongboar dChampi on. “ Thi si st hebes tdayofmyl i f e, ”s ai danov er whel med I ngl eby ,at eari nhi sey e,af t erf i nal l yac hi ev i nghi s c hi l dhooddr eam.“ Bef or eIar r i v edi nt heMal di v esaf t er wi nni ngi nJ apan,al lmyf r i endsbac khomewer es ay i ng ‘ don’ ts l i pupoutt her e’ .SoIj us tdeal twi t ht hi ngs heat by heat ,t r i ednott ot hi nkaboutr es ul t s ,ands ur f ed atmybes t .I ’ ms ohappy .I t ’ sdonenow,s obei ngi nt he f i nali sj us tabonus . ” Fol l owi ngas hor tbr eak ,t he2009Wor l dLongboar d Champi onpaddl edbac kouti nt ot henows hi mmer i ng l i neupwi t hKaiSal l asf ort hegr andf i nal .Thewav es peel edper f ec t l y .Theduos ur f edonanedge,wor k i ng agai ns tt hegr ai n,mi l k i ngev er ypos s i bl eounc eofs peed t os etupf orbl as t i ngmanoeuv r es .Har l eywai t ed out bac k ,whi l eKaipi c k edt het autwav es ,andwi t hno s t r ai ghtl i nes ,butpl ent yofac ut er ebounds ,was r ewar deda7.

75,t hena7.

90f r om t hej udgi ngpanel .

Har l eyr es pondedwasanawes ome8.

0,buti twasKai ’ s t ot als c or eof15.

65t hatwont hef i nalont hi soc c as i on.

Bot hc ompet i t or ss howedgr eats t ami na,k eepi ngupt hei r l ev elofi nt ens i t y .Ther es eemedt obenogapsbet ween t hei rmov es ,noappar enti nbr eat h,j us tanout pour i ngof f l owi ngnos er i desandt ur ns .Thi swasi r r es i s t i bl es t uf f .

Wat c hi ngi tf el tl i k ey ouhadj us ts eent hes ec r et ,t he my s t er yofl ongboar ds ur f i ng,al lper f or medwi t hs oul , ooz i ngqual i t yandf eel i ng,ands i gnal l i ng‘ s t y l e’ .

I nt hequar t er f i nal sSk i ndogwasagai ns tanot her Hawai i an,NedSnow.Sk i ndogper f or medani nc r edi bl e, s t r eami nghangt en,i magi nat i v el yr es pondi ngt ot he c ondi t i ons ,f ol l owedbyc r i s p,c l eanandpower f ult ur ns andwasr ewar deda7.

50.Buthef ai l edt of i ndanot her s etwav et oal l owhi mt ounl eas habi gs c or i ngr i de,and Nedadv anc edt ot hes emif i nal s .24y earol dSk i ndog wasl ef twi t hanex c el l ent5t hpl ac ef i ni s h,andat op10 s eedf ornex ts eas on’ sWL T .

Byt hes emif i nal st hebi gI ndi anOc eanweat her dr ummer swer epr oduc i ngbeaut i f ull ongdi s t anc es et wav es .Hawai i ansKaiSal l asandNedSnowc ompet edi n t heopeni ngs emif i nalandKais eemedt ober ei nv ent i ng whatwaspos s i bl eont hi swav e,t hi nk i nganew,i ns c r i bi nghi ss pont anei t yont hes eet hr oughf ac es ,and adv anc i ngi nt ot hef i nal .

BenSk i nner

Ant oi neDel per o

RESULTS FI NAL

1–KaiSal l as( HAW)15.

65 2–Har l eyI ngel by( AUS)14.

00

SEMIFI NALS

1:KaiSal l as( HAW)14.

50DNedSnow( HAW)13.

45 2:Har l eyI ngel by( AUS)14.

80DAnt oi neDel per o( FRA)14.

35

QUARTERFI NALS

1:KaiSal l as( HAW)12.

00VEduar doBagé( BRA)1 1.

85 2:NedSnow( HAW)15.

75DBenSk i nner( GBR)1 1.

75 3:Har l eyI ngel by( AUS)14.

00DPhi lRaj z man( BRA)13.

55 4:Ant oi neDel per o( FRA)13.

50DRemiAr auz o( FRA)12.

00

ROUND2

1:KaiSal l as( HAW)12.

50def .Col i nMc Phi l l i ps( USA)1 1.

25 2:Eduar doBagé( BRA)12.

50def .Sam Bl eak l ey( GBR)9.

85 3:NedSnow( HAW)14.

75def .Tr oyMot her s head( USA)7.

50 4:BenSk i nner( GBR)13.

50def .BongaPer k i ns( HAW)12.

30 5:Har l eyI ngl eby( AUS)13.

80def .J ar edNeal( AUS)12.

30 6:Phi lRaj z man( BRA)14.

80def .T ay l orJ ens en( USA)14.

75 7:Ant oi neDel per o( FRA)15.

15def .J os hCons t abl e( AUS)9.

65 8:RemiAr auz o( FRA)1 1.

25def .Amar oMat os( BRA)7.

35

ROUND1

1:Col i nMc Phi l l i ps12.

50( USA)def .Dy l anMac l eod7.

10( ZAF) 2:KaiSal l as( HAW)14.

50def .Br y c eYoung1 1.

60( AUS) 3:Sam Bl eak l ey( GBR)10.

15def .Car l osBahi a( BRA)9.

20 4:Eduar doBagé( BRA)12.

60v s .Nobuhi r oOgas hi r a( J PN)10.

25 5:Tr oyMot her s head( USA)16.

75defDuaneDeSot o( HAW)15.

85 6:NedSnow( HAW)14.

75def .T onySi l v agni( USA)1 1.

90 7:BenSk i nner( GBR)15.

00v s .Al ex i sDeni el( FRA)1 1.

30 8:BongaPer k i ns( HAW)16.

75v s .Mi t c hSur man( AUS)10.

75 9:Har l eyI ngl eby( AUS)15.

75v s .J us t i nBi ng( ZAF)7.

00 10:J ar edNeal( AUS)12.

50def .KeeganEdwar ds( HAW)1 1.

35 1 1:Phi lRaj z man( BRA)15.

56def .Col eRobbi ns( USA)12.

10 12:T ay l orJ ens en( USA)16.

75def .J ai meVi udes( BRA)12.

50 13:Ant oi neDel per o( FRA)13.

85def .T ai k iMor i( J PN)6.

20 14:J os hCons t abl e( AUS)16.

40def .Al ex( Pi c ur ut a)Sal az ar( BRA)14.

05 15:RemiAr auz o( FRA)14.

60def .Mat t hewMoi r( ZAF)1 1.

00 16:Amar oMat os( BRA)12.

75def .J er emi asSi l v a( BRA)12.

70

ASPFi nalTop5OxbowWor l dLongboar d2009Rat i ngs 1–Har l eyI ngel by( AUS) 2–KaiSal l as( HAW) 3–Ant oi neDel per o( FRA) 4–Phi lRaj z man( BRA) 5–BongaPer k i ns( HAW) 10–BenSk i nner( GBR) 20–Sam Bl eak l ey( GBR)

noseri di ng

Adam Gr i f i t hsbyBr adKemp

Phot obywav edr eamer . c o. uk

TheAr tOfNoser i di ng Magazi nesl i ket hi sonear ef i l l edwi t hpi ct ur esof sur f er snonchal ant l yper chedont het i psoft hei r l ongboar ds.Yett omanyi nt er medi at esur f er s, st andi ngont hef r ont18i nchesoft hei rboar dscan seem adaunt i ng,al mosti mpossi bl epr ospect .

I nt r ut h,noser i di ngi sn' tTHATdi f f i cul tandi swi t hi n t hegr aspofmostpeopl eonceyouunder st andhow i twor ks.Li kemanyt hi ngsi nsur f i ng,i t ' sdi f f i cul tt o t eachpeopl ehow t onoser i de,t her e' sal otoff eel andexper i encei nvol vedandt hi si sn' ti nt endedas anexhaust i ve" how t o" ,mor eal i stoft i psf r om someoneal r eadyi nt heknow.

Lear nt o cr ossst ep Thi si sn' taspeci f i cnoser i di ngt i p,mor eagener al l ongboar di ngone.Lear ni ngt ocr ossst epf l uent l yi s amaj orst ept ogoodl ongboar di ng.Notonl ydoesi t l ookbet t erbuti ti smor ef unct i onalt oo,al l owi ngyou t omoveupanddownt heboar dqui ckl yandmake useoft henoser i di ngsect i onsoft hewaveast hey appearanddi sappear .I fyourwat ert i mei sl i mi t ed, l ear ni ngt ocr ossst eponal ongskat eboar doran i ndoboar dcanhel pamassi veamount Youwi l lnot i cet hatsomesur f er st aket wost epst o t henosewhi l esomet akef our .Thi si sdi ct at edby t hel engt hofyourl egsandt hel engt hofyourboar d, t obegi nwi t hj ustgowi t hwhi cheverf eel s" r i ght "t o you.

Pi ckyourwaves Smal lcl eanwavesar et hei deall ear ni ngcondi t i ons.

Al t houghi t ' spossi bl et ohangf i vei nal mostany condi t i ons,t hebi ggerandmessi ert hewavesget , t hemor edi f f i cul ti ti s.` I deal l y youwantal i nedup wavet hathasal ongt aper i ngshoul der -t her e' sa r easont hewor l dst wobestnoser i di ngwaves( Noosa & Mal i bu)ar esandbot t omedpoi nt s.

Phot obySpenc erDav i es

YOUR Longboar d WI LLnoser i de Sur esomeshapesmakei teasi ert ost ayupt her ef or l ongerbutanyboar dover9f eetwi l ll etyounoser i de i fyougett heboar di nt her i ghtpl aceont hewave.

Pr act i ce,pr act i ce,pr act i ce Don' tbeaf r ai dt of al lof f ,j ustmakesur eyouunder st andenought oonl yt r yandgot ot henosewhent he t i mei sr i ght .Tr yandanal yseyourwavesandnot e t hedi f f er encesbet weent hewaveswher ei twor ked andi tdi dn' tsoyoucanconcent r at eonr epl i cat i ngt he successes.

Posi t i oni ng Thi si st hebi ggestpar tofget t i ngyourt oesont he nose!

I nsi mpl et er ms,whenyoust andont henose,your wei ghti scount er bal ancedbyt wot hi ngs 1)Theupwar dsf or ceexer t edbyt hewat err ushi ngup t hef aceoft hewaveandacr osst heunder si deoft he noseoft heboar d.Wi dernosesandnoseconcave i ncr easet heamountofl i f tavai l abl e 2)Thecount er wei ght i ngf or ceoft hewavebr eaki ng overt het ai loft heboar d.Lookatsomepi ct ur esof peopl enoser i di ngandyouwi l lseet hatatl eastt he backt hi r doft heboar di ssunki nsi det hewave.

Havi ngsof t" 5050"r ai l sandaconvex" bel l i ed" bot t om i nt het ai lencour aget hewat ert odot hi s.Tai l ki ckal sohel psher easwel lasact i ngt osl ow t he boar ddownandhol di ti nt hewave.

Forar eal l ysol i dnoser i de,no.2i st hemosti mpor t antt hi ng.Youwi l lseepi ct ur esofpeopl eper chedon t het i pwher et hesuct i oni ssogr eatt hatt hewhol e f r ontt hi r doft heboar di sl i f t edoutoft hewat er .

Theset hi ngsonl yhappeni fyouposi t i onyour sel fi n t hef ast estpar toft hewave,aboutt wot hi r dsupt he f aceandascl oset ot hebr eaki ngpar toft hewaveas possi bl e.Thef ur t herawayf r om t hi sposi t i onyouar e, t hemor el i kel yyouar et onosedi veorst al loutoft he backoft hewave.St r ai ghtof fyourt akeof fyoucan geti nt her i ghtspotbyf adi ngt owar dst hepeakas youpaddl ei nbef or est andi ngandswi ngi ngbackt he r i ghtway.Oncer i di ngyoucanei t herst al lt heboar d andwai tf ort hewavet ost eepeni nf r ontofyouorcut backf arenoughsot hatt hewavei sal r eadyst eep aheadofyouasyoubot t om t ur nagai n.Obvi ousl yi n asect i onybeachbr eakst yl ewave,t hewavemi ght st eepenaheadofyounat ur al l y.

Adam Gr i f i t hsbyBr adKemp

Mostofal l ,havef un wi t h yoursurf i ng, af t eral lt hat swhyweal lst art ed i nt he f i rstpl acei sn' ti t ?

Oncet hewavei sst eepaheadofyou,donthesi t at e,go st r ai ghtt ot henose,t hemomentcanbegonei naspl i t second.Toomanypeopl ewai tt ool ongandl ett he boar dt r i mt oof ari nf r ontoft hepocketbef or et hey st ar tt omove.Theboar dout r unst hesect i onandt hen nosedi vesast heyr eacht henose.

I thel pst ot hi nkofst ar t i ngt owal kf or war dast he boar dbegi nst ocl i mbt hef aceaf t eryoubot t om t ur nso t hatyouar r i veont henoseast heboar dr eachest r i m, r at hert hant r yi ngt omovef or war donceatt het opof t hewavewi t ht heboar dal r eadyst ar t i ngt oheaddown t hef ace.Wei ght i ngyouri nsi der ai lhel pst oo.I nf act whenonyourbackhandi tof t enhel pst ohaveyour heelqui t eal ongwayacr osst hest r i ngert owar dst he i nsi der ai l .

Unf or t unat el y ,knowi ngexact l ywheni st her i ghtt i mei s oneoft hose" f eel "t hi ngst hatt akesexper i encet of ul l y mast erbutt r yi ngt ohei ght enyourawar enessofwhat i shappeni ngoneachwaveyour i deasment i oned ear l i erspeedsupt hi spr ocess.

St r et ch t hoset oes Don' twor r yt oomuchaboutwher eyourbackf ooti st o begi nwi t h,j ustmakesur eyourf r ontt oesar epr oper l y dangl i ngovert het i p.Anyt hi ngel sei sj ustf or war dt r i m.

Don' tbegr eedy Onceyou' r eupt her e,i t ' seasyt of r eezet henf al las t hewavebr eaksorst al loutoft hewave.Of t ent he sect i onwi l lonl ysuppor tyouf orashor tt i me.Onceyou senset heboar dst ar tt osl ow downordr opdownt he f ace,st epback,cutbackandsetupagai n.

Wat ch somevi deos Ther ear el ot sofgoodl oggi ngf i l msandpl ent yofcl i ps onyout ube.Whenyouwat cht hem,anal ysewhatt he sur f er sandwavesar edoi ng.Wat chwavest hatshow t hesur f erset t i ngupt henoser i de.Pauset heact i on j ustbef or et heygot ot henoseandl ookatwher et hey ar eandwhatt hewavei sdoi ngar oundt hem.Tr yand vi sual i sehow t hewavel ooksatt hatmomentf r om t he sur f er spoi ntofvi ew.

Onceyoubecomeadeptathangi ngf i veyou' l lnot i ce t hatt her ear esomet i meswher et heboar df eel smuch mor est abl eand" l ockedi n"compar edt oot her s.Thi s mi ghtonl ybef oraspl i tsecond,especi al l yi nbeach br eakst yl ewaves.Thesear et hemoment swhent he t i mei sr i ghtt omovet hebackf ootupt ohangt enor ki cki touti nt ot hewavef aceorhangheel sorl i f ti tup andhol di twhi l eyoust andononel eg!Onl yf eeland exper i encecanhel pyouj udget hemoment si twi l lwor k butyoucanpr act i cet hebal anceneededf ort hemoves overanoveragai nonal ongskat eboar d.Thenwhen you' r ei nt hewat er ,you' r eonl yl ear ni nghow t ogetset uppr oper l ynott r yi ngt oi mpr oveyourbal anceaswel l .

Thi si ssomet hi ngif oundr eal l yusef ulwhenl ear ni ngt o hangheel s.

Chr i sPr est on

Andthere’sanotherthing... ...surfingisutterlypointless.Discuss.

Af t erbl at her i ngonaboutshi t t ybl ow j obsf orf art oo l ongi nt hel asti ssueIt houghti t ’ saboutt i mewegoton t osomet hi ngal t oget hermor ei mpor t antt hanmymi sadvent ur esi nFr angl ai s.Somet hi ngt opr ovokeabi tof l i vel ydi scussi on,per hapssomeembi t t er edemai l i ng andhopef ul l yaf ew i magi nat i vedeat ht hr eat s( j ust r emembert omakei tr eal l y,r eal l ygoodori tdoesn’ t count ) .

Soher egoes.Sur f i ngi spoi nt l ess.Asspor t sgoi ti s compl et el yl acki ngi npur poseandmeani ngandt he peopl ewhodoi t ,ont hewhol e,ar ewast i ngt hei rl i ves.

Ther e.How doest hatf eel ?Tobet ol dyouar ef r i t t er i ng awayyourt i medoi ngnot hi ngmuchatal l ?Doesi thur t ordoesi tmakeyouf eelgood?Doest hewor kshy t osseri nyour el i sht hef actt hatyouhavegott ot he poi nti nyourl i f ewher eyouar et hr owi ngt hewhol e t hi ngawayi nspect acul arf ashi on?( Hey,youcoul dbe gol f i ng. )Ordoyouf eelabi tdi r t yanddi sappoi nt ed wi t hyour sel f ?Per hapsal i t t l eembar r assedt hatyou coul dhavespentt het i meear ni ngmoney,devel opi nga cur ef orcancerorbui l di ngbr i dges?Hasyourcont r i but i ont ot hepr ogr essofmanbeenl i t t l emor et hanaf i ne cut backandacoupl eofunconf i r medt ubes?

I fi thast henyoushoul dbepr oudofyour sel f .Tubes ar en’ tt hateasyt ocomeby.Andbei ngconsi der eda usel ess,goodf or not hi ngwast eri snot hi ngnew i n sur f i ngci r cl es.I ti saf i net r adi t i ont hatgoesbackt o t heanci entHawai i ans,Tom Bl akeandal lt hosesi xt i es sur fbumswhomadeal i vi ngasext r asi nGi dget movi es.

I t ’ sal ongt i mesi nceIdi dmydi sser t at i onon‘ Adver t i si ngandt heSpor tofKi ngs’ ,butIcansaf el ysay,even f r om t hi sdi st ance,t hatsur f i nghasal waysbeen,pr et t y much,apoi nt l essact i vi t y.( Di sser t at i onwast heOl d Spi ceAdver tver sust heSur fAut omat i cadver tona soci oandcul t ur all evel .Forr eal .AndIpassed.And yes,i ncaseyouwer ewonder i ng,Ol dSpi cei sj ustone bi gcum shot . ) TheHawai i anKi ngssur f edbecauset heyhadbugger al lel set odo( myt heor y)becausel i f ewassoeasy t hey’ dst ar tki l l i ngeachot heri ft heydi dn’ tsur f .I n t hosedayst heyhadnobooks,not el l y,nocar sand l i vedi nsmal li sl andcommuni t i eswher et henear est bl okest ohaveascr apwi t hwer et housandsofmi l es away.Theywer ewel lf ed,war m andhadt hel ower cast est ot akecar eoft hei rever yneed.Theypr obabl y di dn’ tevenneedt ocompet ef orashag,unl i ket her est oft hepopul at i on( mor eoft hatl at er ) .Sot heypi ssed abouton‘ Ol o’boar dsf ort het hr i l l ,t hegl i de,t hebuzz, t heser ot oni nki ckt hati tgavet hem -becauset heyhad t i met ospar e.Humans,l i vi ngonani sl andpar adi se, wi t hmangoesandpi neappl esandWai ki kiBeachand hul agi r l s,neverhadi tsogood!

Sur f i ngi spoi nt l essbecauser i di ngwavesdoesn’ tget youanywher e,unl i kesomet hi ngseemi ngl ypoi nt l ess l i kepaddl eboar di ng,whi chhasadest i nat i on.I t doesn’ tcl ot heus,shel t erus,hel pt heenvi r onment ,put f oodont het abl e,healouri l l sorpr ot ectusf r om t he beast soft heni ght .I fi tdi dIsuspecti t ’ dbeeven bi ggert hani ti st oday.

Formostofusi ti st hesame.Ver yf ew oft hesur f er s whot aket ot hewat erar oundt hegl obewi l lmakea l i vi ngoutofsur f i ng.Somemi ghtmakeaf ew bucksout oft het r appi ngst hatgowi t hi t ,butver yf ew wi l lbe l uckyenought ogooutt her eandear nmoneyj ustf or cat chi ngwavesandr i di ngt hem t oshor e.I fyoudot hen youar ever y,ver yl uckyi ndeed.Somemi ghtsayt hat you,l i keaVi ct or i ansur f i ngsi deshow,ar eevenmor e poi nt l esst hant her estofus.Atl eastt hoseofuswho wor kt osur fcancl ai m someusef ulhumanpur posel i ke f l i ppi ngbur ger sorpumpi nggas.Andt hoseofuswho makeaf or t uneoutofOl l ypopt owel sandpopul ar l i f est yl ecl ot hesbr andsar edoi ngt hesame:f i ndi ngan easywayt oputf oodont het abl ei nor dert owast et he r estoft hei rl i vesdoi ngsomet hi ngwi t hnopur pose what soever .Justf orki cks.Thoseki cksmustbesomet hi ngmust n’ tt hey?

Mostot herspor t shaveapur poseandhavegr ownup f r om someki ndofcompet i t i on,sur vi valt echni queor wayofl i vi ng-eveni ft heyhavef or got t enwher et hey camef r om.Takef oot bal l ,f orexampl e.I t ’ sal labout get t i ngyourpr i zehomeandst oppi ngt heot hervi l l age f r om get t i ngi tbackt ot hei rhome.Ter r i t or y.Hunt i ng.

Tr i bal i sm.Andsoi tgoeson:ar cher yi sbl eedi ng obvi ous.Ski i i ngi sal laboutt r appi ngandt r acki ng, cover i ngl ongdi st ances,f i ndi ngf ood.At hl et i cs, l i kewi se,r unni ngj umpi ng,spear i ngt hi ngst oeat , ki l l i ngyourenemy.Evenamoder nspor tl i keMount ai n bi ki ngget syouf r om A t oB.Sur f i ng,i ni t spur i stf or m, i sn’ tevenaboutcompet i t i on.I ti snoncompet i t i ve becausei ti saboutyouandt hewave,notyouandt he r estoft hewor l d.Canyout hi nkofanot herspor tt hat hasnopoi ntatal landi sn’ tevenaboutbeat i ngt he ot herf el l a?No?Ther eyougot hen.

Unl i kemostspor t s,sur f i ngwasneveraboutanyt hi ng ot hert hanshowi ngof f .Thesi debenef i t spr ovei t .

Thesear ebei ngphysi cal l yf i tandl ooki ngcool ,whi ch ul t i mat el y,mi ghtl eadust oat t r act i ngt heat t ent i onofa wor t hymat eandper hapsget t i ngusl ai d.Todayt hough, wi t hmoder nwet sui tt echnol ogyandeasypaddl e shapes,t hi si sbecomi ngl essandl esst r ue.

Sur f i ngshowshow f arwehavecomet hatwedon’ t needt ospendal lourt i mesear chi ngf orf ood,bui l di ng mudhut sorf i ght i ngwi l dani mal sandl ur gi es.I t ’ st he t hi ngwecanaf f or dt odowhenever yt hi ngel sehas beendone.Fun.Recr eat i on.Not hi ngmor e,not hi ng l ess.We,l i kewaver i di ngdol phi ns,ar esogoodat whatwedot hatwecanar sear oundf ort hehel lofi t .

Andyouknow what ?I t ’ sabsol ut el yexcel l ent .That buzzi senought osust ai nawhol el i f et i me’ swor t hof ki cki ngbackandr ef usi ngt ogowi t ht hef l ow,gr ow up orbuyasui t .Iam pr oudt osayt hatIhavewast ed many,manyhour sofmyl i f e.Iam aspect acul arunder achi everandIf eelal lt hebet t erf ori t .Il i vei na cul t ur alwast el andandabackwar dbackwat erandI l ovei t .Icompet eal i t t l ef orf oodandhavet oputi nt he hour satwor kt okeept hepoi nt l essnessal i ve,butI don’ tmi ndbecausei t ’ sf unt ogooutandr i dewaves,t o bebesi det hesea,t ospendt i mei nt hecompanyof ot herwast er s.EvenasIwr i t et hi sIshoul dbewr i t i ng somet hi ngel sef ormoney.Butt hat ’ sj ustt hewayi ti s.I am awast er ,havi ngf un.Not hi ngmor e,not hi ngl ess.

Mar t i nDor eyi sasur f erandawr i t erwhol i vesand wor ksont heNor t hDevoncoast .Hehasj ustf i ni shed hi sf i r stbook,‘ TheCamperVanCookbook’ ,f or Sal t yar dBooks.Forshi t sandgi ggl eshesur f sa9’ si ngl ef i n.Formi ndl essf unhesur f sa6’ 5”quad.

Tot el lhi m how you’ dl i ket oki l lhi mi nnomor et han30 wor dsmai lt omar t i n@copymonkey. bi z

Surfi nTei gnmout h?

Youmustbej oki ng!Wel l ,nonotatal l .Buti t ’ sas r ar easauni cor n.Lucki l yIwasont apt ocat ch somephot os.

Li vi ngi nExet erhasi t supsi des.I tal sohasi t s downsi de,l i keanhourdr i vet ot heNor t hCoastt o scor esomeshapel ygr een.Somet i meshowever , wegetawaveonourdoor st ept hatevent hemost f er alof“ Cr oydei t es”woul dhappi l ydr i vedownf or .

Andi fhet el l syout hat ’ sacr ock,show hi mt hese f ew snaps.Thi si sTei gnmout h,bel i evei tornot , onagoodl at eNovembersout hwest er l yswel l .

Thepaddl eouti sbesi det hepi erandnott oobad atal l ,wi t ht het akeof fpoi ntsi t uat ed….Wel lyou wi l lsussi tout .

Bewar ned.Wheni ti sl i ket hi s,i tr ef or mst oabout 6f ootanddumpsont hebeach.Get t i ngoutcanbe f un! ! ! ! ! !

Mat tLockyear

Paddl e4Rel i ef ' sl at estt r i pt oSr iLanka

Whi l stouti nSr iLankaonPaddl e4Rel i efdut y,Ti m Tant on,Founderoft heNor t hDevonbasedchar i t y, managedt ot akesomewel l ear nedt i meoutandsnaga f ew gemsatMai nPoi nt ,Ar ugam Bay!Notf or get t i ngaf ew f unwavesf ur t herupt hecoastatPot t uvi lPoi nt .

Ar ugam Bayhasoneoft hebestr i ghthandpoi nt br eaksi nt heI ndi anOcean.I t ' sal r eadyr enownedf ori t s cl asswavesf r om Jul yt oSept emberandi t ' s27째 C wat er .

Butdon' tbef ool ed,you' l lf i ndwavesnear l yal lyear r ound.Apr i lt oJuneof f er i ngaqui etl i neup,andt hesea t emper at ur edoesn' tchange.Soi t ' sboar di eso' cl ock!Yes, t her e' l lbemonsoonr ai nsf r om Decembert oFebr uar yand ani ncr easei nt hemosqui t opopul at i onatt hi st i me!

Ther e' l lbeani ncr easedr i skofsnakest aki ngshel t eri n yourr oom aswel l ,butbeawar e,t her ear equal i t ywaves t obehadt hr oughoutt heyear ,andpl ent yt oseewhent he wavesar enotf or t hcomi ng!

Fort hoseseeki ngat admor eadvent ur e,t her ear e pl ent yofbr eaksbot hnor t handsout hofABay.Ei t hergr ab

your sel faTukTukorseel ocalsur f erSaman@ Sur fn Sun,whowi l lt akeyouonasur fsaf ar ii nhi sLandRover !

CheckoutFr eedom Cabanas,Samant haRest aur ant , That ht hasTeaShop,Lahi r usPl ace,Sur fnSun,Rocco' s Hot el ,Ni na' sCabanas,TheGr eenRoom,andTi ssaand hi sTukTuk. . . . . .

Butt hemai npur poseoft het r i pwast ocont i nuewi t h t hewor kt hathasseenPaddl e4Rel i efgr ow asan ext r emel yef f ect i vechar i t y.

Fort hr eemont hsTi m wor kedr el i gi ousl ywi t hl ocal sur f erKr i shant haAr i yasena,Paddl e4Rel i ef sAr ugam Bay Pr oj ectManager .Twent yoneyearol dKr i shhasbeen P4R' smanont hegr oundf ort woyear snow,havi ngt aken overf r om hi sol derbr ot herThusant ha.Kr i shwaswar y aboutsur f i ngonMai nPoi ntf ol l owi ngal uckyescapei n Augustl astyear .Kr i shhadbeendr i l l edi nt ot heshal l ow sandybot t om atPot t uvi lPoi ntandbeencar r i edf r om t he sur fwi t hasuspect edbr okenneck.For t unat el yf orKr i sh hesuf f er edsever esof tt i ssuedamage,spentacoupl e

daysi nhospi t alandwasr el easedwi t haneckbr acet o wear .Henol ongerdoeshandst andsonhi s9'l ongboar d buthei sbackhavi ngf un,shar i ngwavesanddr oppi ngi n onTi m onhi s9'5”Gul fSt r eam Yel l ow Log. Chr i sMar t i nofBr aunt onandLeahReynol dsof Bi def or dj oi nedTi m.Chr i swaskeent osampl et he t r opi cali sl andswaveswhi l stLeahwasf ocusedont he t aski nhand!

I nLeah' scaset hatwasget t i ngi nvol vedi nAct i vi t y Gr oupswi t ht hel ocalchi l dr enandhel pi ngoutwi t hpr ovi di ngl ocalschool swi t hval uabl er esour ces.I nal l ,Leahand Ti m managedt oor gani seanddi st r i but eenoughexer ci se books,pens,penci l s,educat i onalgames,puzzl es,t oys andr eadi ngbookst ot enschool s.Si xoft heschool sar e par tofapr ogr ammeofr esour cer ot at i onsetupby Basheer ,al ocalPostOf f i ceManager ,whosetupt he l ocalCul t ur alDevel opmentCommuni t yPr ogr amme.

Ont hemanuall abourf r ont ;t hr eewat erpi pel i nes, t wowel lpr oj ect s,onef ami l y' sr oof ,anot her ’ sel ect r i cs,a

ki t chenandat oi l etbl ockandwast et ankwer ecompl et ed ont hi st r i p.Ti m andKr i shar ehel pedbyl ocalcr af t smen andl abour er st ocompl et et hepr oj ect s,andbypayi ng sal ar i es,i tenabl et hosewor ker st of eedt hei rf ami l i es.

P4R cont i nuedt opr ovi demedi ci nesandaf i r stai d ser vi cet ot hecommuni t y,asbot hLeahandTi m ar e qual i f i ednur ses.

Ont heenvi r onment alf r ont ,P4R wor kedwi t ht he l ocalsur f er sf r om t heAr ugam BaySur fCl ub( whi chP4R hel pedt oest abl i sh)i nmaki ngander ect i ngBeachLi t t er si gnsandwor ki ngwi t ht hear easSpeci alTaskFor ce( Sr i Lanka’ sel i t emi l i t ar ygr oup)i ncar r yi ngoutamassi ve beachcl ean.

Now t hatt hewari sover ,t hel ocalar eahas becomeapopul ardest i nat i onf ormanyofSr iLanka' s popul at i on.Thi shasseenani ncr easei nsur fr escuesby t hel ocalsur f er s.I t ' sbecomecl eart her ei saneedf ora Sur fLi f esavi ngt eam.TheSTF ar epr ovi di ngl i f esavi ng coveratt heweekendsf r om f i veoft hei rgr oupwhoar e

qual i f i edl i f esaver s,butt heyneedequi pment .P4R and Ar ugam BaySur fCl ubhavepr ovi dedt hem wi t hasur f boar d,a7f tgun!Noti dealbutast ar t .P4R i sl ooki ngf or donat i onsofol dl ongboar dsorsur fr escueboar dsal ong wi t hf i r stai dki t sandpocketf acemaskst oseaf r ei ghtout t oSr iLanka,andaqual i f i edSur fLi f eSavi ngI nst r uct ort o headoutt oSr iLankaandt r ai nupt hel ocalsur f er s.

KeepaneyeonTi m andt hePaddl e4Rel i efcr ew at www. paddl e4r el i ef . co. uk,andwhatt heyar eachi evi ng f ort hosel essf or t unat et hanus.

Hel pandsuppor tal wayswel come. . .

Deck the halls Feel i ng pri de f oryourri de?Then don’ thi de i taway, ri g up a naf fhangi ng sys t em fr om r ope,spl ash cash on a wal lmount ed board r ack orl eave yourbel oved s ti ck l eani ng agai ns ta wal lwai ti ng f ora di ng.Ins t ead make a sl eek hangi ng set -up thatt akesl essthan a t enner and abouthal fan hourofti me.

Materi al s : 6 x D-ri ngs 2xr awlpl ugs 2 x 80mm s cr ew-i n hooks 1 i n wi de nyl on webbi ng Mat ches Thr ead Sewi ng machi ne Sci ssors Dri l l Tape measur e

Di recti ons : Measur e the wi dth ofyourboard and mul ti pl y thi sby 5 t ogetthe l ength ofnyl on webbi ng you’ l lneed.Cutthe nyl on webbi ng i nt otwo equalpi eces .Hol da l i tmat ch cl ose t othe f our r aw endsofwebbi ng;thi swi l lmel tt ogetherany fr ayi ng thr eads .

Loop twoD-ri ngsont othe fi rs tpi ece of webbi ng,then f ol d the end ofthe webbi ng back on i tsel f5cm.Sti t ch thi si nt opl ace on your sewi ng machi ne,runni ng twoormor e seamsf or s turdi ness .Repeaton the second pi ece of webbi ng.

Loop a si ngl e D-ri ng ont othe fi rs tpi ece of webbi ng,then f as t en the twoendst ogetherl i ke you woul d a bel t .Repeaton the second pi ece of webbi ng.

Deci de wher e you wantyourboard t obe di spl ayed on yourwal lhori zont al l y.Measur e the l ength ofyour board and di vi de by 4,then measur e the r esul ti ng di s t ance i n fr om both endsofthe board t ogetyour hori zont alcoordi nat es .Deci de wher e you wantyour board t obe di spl ayed on yourwal lverti cal l y.You’ l l wantyourhookst obe posi ti oned 5-1 0cm above thi s ( butr ememberyou can adj us tthe l ength ofthe s tr apst oal t erverti calposi ti oni ng) .Fr om her e you can deri ve the twopoi ntson yourwal lwher e yourhooks need t ogo .

Dri l lhol esatthese twopoi ntsand i nsertr awlpl ugs , then s cr ew i n the hooks .Loop the fr ee D-ri ng on each l ength ofwebbi ng ont oeach hook.Sl i de yourboard i nt othe“bel ts ”you’ ve cr eat ed,and adj us tf or opti mum posi ti oni ng.Ifther e’ st oomuch extr a webbi ng hangi ng of fthe end,you can cutand burn the endst oyourl i ki ng.

I magesandt extShannonDenny