00 WINES, WILLAMETTE VALLEY, OREGON, 2021 vintage en primeur by corneyandbarrowltd

00 WINES WILLAMETTE VALLEY, OREGON EXCLUSIVE TO CORNEY & BARROW IN THE UK

THE 2021 VINTAGE This is our second release of 00 Wines which, building on the region’s resounding success with Pinot Noir, is fast blazing a trail for premium Oregon Chardonnay. As owners Chris and Kathryn Hermann explain it, zero is the number of potential in numerology. One zero for Chardonnay and another for Pinot Noir. Founded in 2015 by Chris and his late father, Dr Richard Hermann, 00 Wines is very much a family affair. Burgundy is more than just an inspiration for Chris and Kathryn, who cite Raveneau, Coche-Dury and Roulot as influences. Their winemaking consultant is the renowned Burgundybased Pierre Millemann and they count many of the region’s luminaries as friends and business partners. Having already produced small amounts of Corton-Charlemagne, there are more exciting Burgundian developments in the pipeline, which we hope to bring to you soon. The grapes in the current offer have been sourced from small parcels throughout Willamette Valley. As Chris puts it, in this way it is possible to access the oldest vines in the valley (50-60 years of age), which would be impossible from scratch. Winemaking takes place at the 00 winery in Carlton, informed by biodynamic principles. Of particular note is their ‘black Chardonnay’ method of fully oxidising the grape must, with what Chris terms a “heavy extraction of phenolics”, making for wines of bold texture and shape. This year’s release is of the 2021 vintage. Karthryn and Chris took the hard decision not to produce a 2020 vintage, in light of the wildfires which ravaged the west coast of the US in that season. As a glance at the wines will show you, we are fortunate to have an extended selection this year, adding several single vineyards and cuvées to the core VG (‘Very Good’) and EG (‘Extra Good’) range.

GUY SEDDON Head of Fine Wine Buying November 2023

THE TEAM 00 Wines is the creation of husband and wife team Chris and Kathryn Hermann. Chris and Kathryn Hermann

Chris Hermann is a lawyer with over 40 years’ experience advising some of the top names in the world of wine, both in the US and internationally. His legal work turned into a passion for wine and, having literally written the book (The Law of Wine – Oregon), he is well placed to run the 00 team alongside Wynne Peterson-Nedry, a second-generation winemaker from one of the pioneering Willamette families. Kathryn Hermann came to the world of wine after a career in marketing, project management and software development. She is responsible for the creative side of 00, designing their brilliant packaging and managing communications.

Pierre Millemann

Renowned Burgundian winemaker Pierre Millemann acts as consultant for the Oregon wines, as well as being the winemaker of 00 Wines in Burgundy. He also teaches Oenology at the University of Dijon.

OREGON AND THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY The Willamette Valley is the jewel of Oregon. High in the north-west corner of the USA, Oregon sits between the states of California and Washington. Less than an hour’s drive from its capital, Portland, the Willamette Valley is closer to Vancouver than San Francisco. This is where the heat of the south begins to recede, as the Canadian border approaches. Willamette Valley is certainly the best known of the state’s 19 wine regions – or AVAs (American Viticultural Areas), as they are known. It is split into nine sub-regions which, slightly confusingly, are also AVAs in their own right.* Over recent decades, Oregon has become known for its high quality Pinot Noirs. More recently, the potential for top Chardonnay has emerged, with 00 Wines at the forefront of this new wave. Given the focus on these two grape varieties, comparisons are inevitably drawn with Burgundy. While there are undoubted similarities (and mutual admiration) between the two regions, what is truly exciting here is not so much the ability to imitate, as to forge something totally new. *The nine sub-regions are Chehalem Mountains AVA, Dundee Hills AVA, Eola-Amity Hills AVA, Laurelwood District AVA, McMinnville AVA, Ribbon Ridge AVA, Tualatin Hills AVA, Van Duzer Corridor AVA and Yamhill-Carlton District AVA.

VITICULTURE 00 Wines sources Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes from a small number of vineyards in the Willamette Valley, from elevations between 300 and 1,000 feet above sea level (90-300m). Around 50 tons of fruit is bought annually. Yields are very low, with picking dates decided in consultation with the individual growers two weeks before harvest. The aim is to pick Chardonnay at around 23 Brix.

Willamette Valley AVAs

Willamette Valley AVAs Tualatin Hills AVA

Laurelwood District AVA PORTLAND

Chehalem Mountains AVA

Yamhill-Carlton AVA

McMinnville AVA Ribbon Ridge AVA Dundee Hills AVA Eola-Amity Hills AVA Van Duzer Corridor AVA

SALEM

EUGENE

WINEMAKING & ‘BLACK CHARDONNAY’ This alarming sounding technique has its roots in traditional Burgundian white winemaking. It involves exposing the crushed grape skins and juice to oxygen before fermentation. In the same way that the flesh of an apple will turn dark if you take a bite and then leave it, the grape must blackens. This temporary discolouration is caused by the phenols in the grape juice absorbing oxygen. The dark colour subsequently precipitates, or drops away, along with much of the astringency of the pips and skins. In this way, just as the rich phenolic matter extracted by crushing and pressing is softened by exposure to oxygen, the resultant wines are bolstered against future oxidation. 00 Wines’ black Chardonnay method involves a pre-press crush with 12 hours of skin contact, followed by long, heavy pressing with no added sulphur dioxide and no settling before racking into barrel. The initial crushing is done by foot, with the must kept on its skins, followed by a three-hour press at two bar of pressure the next day, resulting in a “very soupy must in the press pan”. Nor is there any bâtonnage, or lees stirring. The wines are then aged for 12 months in French oak barrels (20% new), followed by six months in tank on their fine lees. In Kathryn and Chris’ words, the aim is “maximum phenolic extraction, allowing the transparency of the fruit and the texture of the phenolics to shine through.” They also stress that this really showcases vintage variations. Bottling tends to take place in the last week in April, after which the wines are released two years after bottling.

2021 VINTAGE NOTES 2021 was described by Kathryn Hermann as a return to the 2014-18 run of consistently warm vintages. In comparison with 2017 and 2018, the 00 Wines vintages we have got to know a little over the past year, Kathryn describes 2021 as “closer to 2018 than 2017” – a vintage of prolonged maturation, with no sunburn and no extremes.

In Willamette, growers reckon with an average of 105 days between flowering and harvest. This was on track in 2021 from the early season. There was a June heat spike, but it did not impact the fruit character. Two factors can be seen to have mitigated the summer heat. Firstly the diurnal range, which varied between 80°F (27°C) in the daytime and high 40s/low 50s at night (single-digits in Celsius terms). Secondly, cooling morning fogs, which come in from the Pacific, 50-75km to the west, and tend to sit between the two mountain ranges – the Coast Range (300masl) to the west and the Cascade Range to east. By September, the fruit was approaching full ripeness – Kathryn described it as “absolutely perfect”. Picking, at dawn, was carried out shortly after, using half-ton picking bins. Ripeness levels came in at 22.5 Brix, equating to final alcohols of around 13.5% abv – exactly where Kathryn and Chris want to be.

WHITE WINES The 00 whites are produced using the Black Chardonnay method, whereby the grapes are crushed, then given 12 hours’ skin contact, followed by heavy, long pressing. They are then racked into barrel without settling for fermentation, with no bâtonnage. 12 months in French oak barrels, 20% new, followed by 6 months in stainless steel vats prior to bottling.

VGW

SEVEN SPRINGS VINEYARD

The ‘Very Good White’ 2021 comes from three vineyards in the Willamette Valley, at 400-500 feet (120-150m) elevation, including Seven Springs, planted with Dijon Chardonnay clones. East-facing slopes with volcanic and sedimentary soils. Intense pear and peach fruit aromas lead into a powerful, salty-mineral palate, with impressively weighty dry extract. This is a wine of shape and momentum, sustained by fresh acidity through to a flinty, clipped finish. Total production in 2021 was the equivalent of 1,250 cases of 12.

Seven Springs was planted in the late 1980s by Al MacDonald, one of the first to identify the potential of the east-facing sites in the Willamette valley. It is in the Eola Amity Hills and, at 30 minutes’ driving from the winery, is the most remote plot. There are two blocks, on which Dominique Lafon has consulted. Wente and Dijon clones are interplanted here. An exuberant nose with a grapefruit flair. The palate is more pared down, with a salty, focused finish, on which hazelnut flavours linger. Aged for 12 months in French oak barrels, 20-30% new.

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2029

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2030

£335/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £810/Case of 6 magnums, in bond UK

£595/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £1,290/Case of 6 magnums, in bond UK

EGW

CHEHALEM MOUNTAIN

The grapes for the ‘Extra Good White’ come from around half Chehalem Mountain Vineyard (planted with Wente Chardonnay clone) and half from a site in the Eola-Amity Hills (Dijon clone). There is more weight of peach fruit here versus the VGW, with peppery spices and yellow flowers on the nose. The palate is similarly richer, with fine salty definition and driving power. You fancy you can taste those volcanic soils in the palate’s thrilling tension. This is made in the same way as the VGW, with 20-30% new French oak, the barrels coming from the Chassin, Cadus and Mercurey cooperages.

This is a warm site that was planted in 1968 and ’69. It is south-facing and lower-elevation (300masl), planted with the Wente Chardonnay clone, which is originally from the south of France and was first imported into California, before making its way up the west coast. A pure, focused nose of bright stone-fruit and wet-stone minerality, leading into a superbly expressive palate of white peach and lemon rind, before finishing dry and clipped, very clean. Aged in French oak barrels for 12 months, with 20-30% new oak.

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2030 £535/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £1,170/Case of 6 magnums, in bond UK

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2032 £825/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £1,750/Case of 6 magnums, in bond UK

To Order LONDON

020 7265 2440 EDINBURGH

01875 321 921 EMAIL

sales@corneyandbarrow.com PLEASE NOTE These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK.

KATHRYN HERMANN CUVÉE Named after Kathryn, so this must be good! Wente Chardonnay clone, from Chehalem Mountain – this is a barrel selection (three barrels) of the previous wine, aged for an extended period of 24 months in oak barrels. Aromas of ripe stone fruit and lime rind, with steely minerality. The palate is very fresh, with taut, tensile acidity which really skewers the palate. The barrels here are from the Billon cooperage, made for longer ageing. Two thirds new oak. 14.5% abv. Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2032 £925/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £1,950/Case of 6 magnums, in bond UK

RICHARD HERMANN CUVÉE The Richard Hermann Cuvée is named after Chris Hermann’s father, one of the founders of 00 Wines. This is 100% Dijon clone, perhaps visible in the aromas of white peppery spice. A wine of “beauty and purity… amazing finesse”, in the words of Kathryn. It is the most Chablis-esque and mineral (although the soils here are volcanic). Whether you prefer the elegance of this wine or the greater power of the Freya (the next wine), is a question of personal preference. This was bottled in May 2023. Ageing for 12 months in oak barrels, then six months in stainless steel vat. The equivalent of 77 dozen was made in 2021. Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2035 £925/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £1,950/Case of 6 magnums, in bond UK

FREYA HERMANN CUVÉE The Freya Hermann Cuvée is named after Chris Hermann’s mother and forms a pair, fittingly, with the previous wine. This is 100% Dijon clone, which receives an extended period of 24 months’ ageing in oak barrels. Richer, more powerful and more voluptuous than the Richard Hermann. This is the crowd-pleaser. It was bottled in May 2023. The equivalent of 82 dozen-bottle cases was made in 2021. Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2032 £1,045/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £2,190/Case of 6 magnums, in bond UK

RED WINES VGR

CHEHALEM MOUNTAIN

The ‘Very Good Red’ is vinified in two-ton pyramidshaped concrete vats. In 2021, it is a blend of the Hyland, Shea and Richard Hermann cuvées. Raspberry-fruited, with minty spices from a third whole bunch fermentation and a gentle, almost Burgundian leafiness, all framed by supple tannins. Aged in Damy Rubis oak barrels, with 20% new oak.

As for the Hyland Pinot, the grapes here go through a five-hour process of hand destemming, in order to enable whole berry fermentation, which takes place in 500L Tuscan terracotta amphorae. Dried spice aromas, with almost Provençal garrigue and lavender. The raspberry fruit is stunningly pure, with taffeta-like delicacy. The tannins were still grippy when tasted in spring 2023, suggesting this impressive wine will benefit from a few years in bottle.

Corney & Barrow Score 17+ Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2030 £450/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £1,000/Case of 6 magnums, in bond UK

Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2032 £825/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

HYLAND

RICHARD HERMANN CUVÉE

This comes from a parcel in McMinnville AVA known as Block 1D, planted in 1972 – one of the oldest still on its own roots in the Willamette Valley, at 675 feet (206m) above sea level, with bright red ‘Jory’ volcanic soils – a friable, archetypal Oregon soil. Planted with what is known locally as the Coury clone (thought to be Pommard clone). A wine of gorgeous whole bunch exotic spices and small blue flower perfume. The berries go through a fivehour process of hand destemming, in order to enable whole berry fermentation, in 500L Tuscan terracotta amphorae. 12 months in 20% new French oak, followed by six months in stainless steel vats.

The Richard Hermann Pinot is named after Chris Hermann’s father, who founded 00 Wines along with his son. Once again, these berries are hand-destemmed, berry by berry, to enable whole berry fermentation, which takes place in 500l Tuscan terracotta amphorae. This is a darker Pinot Noir, with cool blackcurrant aromas. The palate is saturated and impressive, with a wonderful purity of fruit. A wine of substance and ageing potential.

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2023 - 2030

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2033 £895/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £1,890/Case of 6 magnums, in bond UK

£585/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

SHEA VINEYARD This comes from a specific plot in the upper sections of this 50 hectare vineyard, all of which is owned by Dick Shea. In Chris’ words, it is probably the most important single vineyard in Oregon – and indeed the US. Planted in the 1980s, it is a warm vineyard, from which 16-17 producers make a wine. This is a Pinot of tactile dark berries, in which you can feel the high skin:juice ratio. The palate has a winning generosity of fruit and fine leafy pepperiness. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2029 £595/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £1,290/Case of 6 magnums, in bond UK

Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score. Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.

EDINBURGH Oxenfoord Castle by Pathhead Midlothian, Scotland EH37 5UB T +44 (0)1875 321 921 edinburgh@corneyandbarrow.com

EAST ANGLIA Belvoir House, High Street Newmarket, Suffolk CB8 8DH T +44 (0)1638 600 000 newmarket@corneyandbarrow.com

NORTH OF ENGLAND 4 Park Square East Leeds LS1 2NE T +44 (0)1133 400 380 northofengland@corneyandbarrow.com

AYR 8 Academy Street, Ayr Ayrshire, Scotland KA7 1HT T +44 (0)1292 267 000 ayr@corneyandbarrow.com

Online

FACEBOOK @corneyandbarrow

X @corneyandbarrow

www.corneyandbarrow.com

INSTAGRAM @corneyandbarrow